Road-trips

  • Båtsfjord, Berlevåg, Road-trips, Scenic Drives

    Drive it Yourself: Berlevåg to Båtsfjord

    Drive it Yourself: Berlevåg to Båtsfjord

    The drive from Berlevåg to Båtsfjord is something special. Both ports are incredibly isolated on the Finnmark coast, but are vital fishing communities for Norway. The rugged shoreline has been shaped by bad weather from the Barents Sea, and the geology here is some of the oldest in Norway. The drive itself is short, but well worth it on any road-trip in the north. 

    Here’s my self-guided drive from Berlevåg to Båtsfjord. 

    In this article...

    Download this Guide

    All of our guides can be downloaded via our online store. 

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

    All of our guides come with Google Map links, making it easier to navigate your road-trip!

    View on Store

    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Information about facilities along the way

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the region & towns
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Facilities including supermarkets, toilets, petrol, hotels, cafes, restaurants with addresses.

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    Visit Our YouTube Channel

    Berlevåg to Båtsfjord

    Berlevåg

    Welcome to Berlevåg! Berlevåg is a small fishing community facing the Barents Sea. Berlevåg is famous around Norway for its mens choir!

    Berlevåg Travel Guide

    Kongshavn

    Cultural Heritage Site

     Kongshavn has remains of settlements dating approximately 10,000 years back, from the early Stone Age to the 190s. The older settlements are higher up, indicating where the shoreline used to be. 11 housegrounds from the late Stone Age are here, while closer to the sea are 4-5 sites of houses from the Iron Age.

    The site is not marked with signs, but there is a parking lot. 

    Kjølnes Lighthouse

    Lighthouse

    Ishavsveien

    Road

    The road is commonly called Ishavsveien and is fascinating for those interested in geology as there’s no soil or vegetation concealig the various types of rock, sediments and rock formations. Prehistoric shorelines here show how the land has risen.

    Kongsfjord

    Village

    Kongsfjord is a small fishing village with a population of around 32 people. It has been inhabited for hundreds of years and Kongsfjord is one of the few fishing settlements that wasn’t destroyed during World War II. The Kongsfjord River has special protection as a salmon river, and parts of the fjord are protected as a special landscape.

    The local shop (pictured top left) is full of charm and is a must-see when driving here. 

    Kongsfjordfjellet

    Mountains

    You now cross the Kongsfjordfjellet mountain, which is 326m (1069ft) above sea level. 

    Båtsfjordsfjellet

    Mountains

    Now you cross the Båtsfjordfjellet mountain at 358m above sea level. 

    Båtsfjord Municipality

    The landscape in Båtsfjord is geologically very old by Scandinavian standards, and to a large extent formed before the last ice ages. Ice sheets from the last ice ages lay frozen over large parts of the Varanger peninsula and thus changed the landscape to a small extent. The large block field areas are believed to be very old, before the last ice age.

    However, the ice has left behind a large number (several thousand) of distinctive ring-shaped formations, formations that are otherwise known from only a few places in the world. The area is also characterised by many long and sometimes crossing gullies, which tell a lot about the melting and movement of the ice.

    Båtsfjord

    Båtsfjord is one of Norway’s largest fishing communities and is also one of the most culturally diverse in the country. 

    Båtsfjord Travel Guide

    Next Drive

    Varanger Tourist Road

    Follow the Varanger Tourist Road from Hamningberg to Varangerbotn via Vardø and Vadsø. 

    Varanger Tourist Road

    Previous Drive

    Berlevåg to Båtsfjord

    This road follows the “Ishavsveien” – Arctic Sea Road – from Berlevåg to Båtsfjord. 

    Berlevåg to Båtsfjord
  • Berlevåg, Road-trips, Scenic Drives, Tana Bru

    Drive it Yourself: Varangerbotn to Berlevåg

    Drive it Yourself: Varangerbotn to Berlevåg

    The short drive from Varangerbotn to Berlevåg is incredible. After venturing off the E6 highway, you cross the Kongsfjordfjellet mountains, leave the tree line, and then drive alongside the Barents Sea. The last part of the drive – nicknamed the ‘Arctic Sea Road’ – is considered one of the best geological areas in Norway. 

    The road often closes in winter, so this is only a summer drive. 

    In this article...

    Download this Guide

    All of our guides can be downloaded via our online store. 

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

    All of our guides come with Google Map links, making it easier to navigate your road-trip!

    View on Store

    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Information about facilities along the way

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the region & towns
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Facilities including supermarkets, toilets, petrol, hotels, cafes, restaurants with addresses.

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    Visit Our YouTube Channel
    Visit Our YouTube Channel

    Varangerbotn to Berlevåg

    Varangerbotn

    Village

    Varangerbotn is a small village that is the administrative centre of Nesseby. The population is around 341. In Varanger you can visit the Varanger Sami Museum, a museum for the history and culture of the Sami in Varangerbotn. The museum presents the Sea Sami history, Sami prehistory, and contemporary Sami culture.

    Tana-Deanu Municipality

    The Sami word “Deanu” The Sami word can be translated as ‘great river’, referring to the Tana River. The population of the municipality is around 2,800, with the population currently declining.

    The coat-of-arms represents riverboats that have been used in the area for centuries. The three boats symbolise the three ethnic groups here: Sami, Kven and Norwegian, and the colours mimic the red and yellow of the Norwegian coat-of-arms.

    The most important industries are agriculture or timber. The world’s northernmost dairy is Tine in Tana Bru, and it employs around 30 people.

    The municipality is located along the lower river basin of the Tana River. Most of the inhabitants are Sami people. The river is one of Europe’s main salmon rivers, though no large-scale commercial fishing is done.

    Skiippagurra

    Skiippagurra has a population of around 254 residents and is a historic trading place. This is where the E6 stops following the Tana River and continues across to Kirkenes.

    Tana Bru

    This is the main village in Deanu-Tana. Tana Bru means ‘Tana Bridge’ in English and is named after the bridge that crosses the river to the village of Skiippagurra on the other side of the river.

    Tanu Bru Travel Guide

    At Tana Bru, leave the E6 and follow signs to Berlevåg. 

    Austertana

    Village

    Austertana is a small village located along one of the inner bays of the Tanafjord. The village is home to both the Austertana Chapel and the world’s second largest quartzite quarry. Most of the town was destroyed by Nazis at the end of World War II.

    The highest mountain on the Varanger peninsula, named Stangenestind, is 724m above sea level and is at Austertana. The northernmost point of the Scandinavian birch forest is also here. In Austertana you can find Norway’s longest sandy beach; it is 13km long.

    After Austertana you pass through a boomgate. The road to Berlevåg often closes in winter due to snowstorms, isolating the town from the rest of Norway. The daily coastal ferry (Hurtigruten and Havila) is an essential service during this time. 

    Kongsfjordfjellet

    Mountains

    You now cross the Kongsfjordfjellet mountain, which is 326m (1069ft) above sea level. 

    Berlevåg Municipality

    Berlevåg municipality is located on the northwestern part of the Varanger peninsula. Most of the settlement is concentrated around the village of Berlevåg, though Kongsfjord is the second largest settlement. The coat-of-arms represents the municipality’s dependence on the sea – the waves towards the beach. The five waves represent the five places with permanent settlement.

    Buetjernet

    Settlement

    Buetjernet is located just after the turn-off from the road to Båtsfjord. There is no permanent settlement here; these are all cabins. 

    Kongsfjord

    Village

    Kongsfjord is a small fishing village with a population of around 32 people. It has been inhabited for hundreds of years and Kongsfjord is one of the few fishing settlements that wasn’t destroyed during World War II. The Kongsfjord River has special protection as a salmon river, and parts of the fjord are protected as a special landscape.

    The local shop (pictured top left) is full of charm and is a must-see when driving here. 

    Ishavsveien

    Road

    The road is commonly called Ishavsveien and is fascinating for those interested in geology as there’s no soil or vegetation concealig the various types of rock, sediments and rock formations. Prehistoric shorelines here show how the land has risen.

    Kjølnes Lighthouse

    Lighthouse

    Varangerbotn is a small village that is the administrative centre of Nesseby. The population is around 341. In Varanger you can visit the Varanger Sami Museum, a museum for the history and culture of the Sami in Varangerbotn. The museum presents the Sea Sami history, Sami prehistory, and contemporary Sami culture.

    Berlevåg

    Welcome to Berlevåg! Berlevåg is a small fishing community facing the Barents Sea. Berlevåg is famous around Norway for its mens choir!

    Berlevåg Travel Guide

    Next Drive

    Berlevåg to Båtsfjord

    This road follows the “Ishavsveien” – Arctic Sea Road – from Berlevåg to Båtsfjord. 

    Berlevåg to Båtsfjord

    Previous Drive

    Varanger Tourist Road

    Follow the Varanger Tourist Road from Hamningberg to Varangerbotn via Vardø and Vadsø. 

    Varanger Tourist Road
  • National Tourist Roads, Road-trips, Vadsø, Varangerbotn, Vardø

    Drive it Yourself: Varanger Tourist Road

    Drive it Yourself: Varanger Tourist Road

    The Varanger Tourist Road is one of Norway’s 18 national tourist roads and is definitely one of the most special. The Varanger Peninsula is a rugged mountain area partly covered in birch trees and partly above the tree line. Parts of the peninsula used to have an Arctic tundra climate but don’t any more. Still, the geology here is unique as most of the landscape was made before the last Ice Age. 

    The route is so special – you see lunar landscapes, flat plains, rolling hills and birch forests. You also pass sights with history and sites going back 10,000 years, abandoned fishing villages, and so much more. 

    Enjoy the Varanger Tourist Road. 

    In this article...

    Download this Guide

    All of our guides can be downloaded via our online store. 

    Download this guide to have it as a PDF ready to go for your road-trip!

    All downloadable guides come with an interactive Google Map for easier navigation. 

    View on Store

    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Information about facilities along the way

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the region & towns
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Facilities including supermarkets, toilets, petrol, hotels, cafes, restaurants with addresses.

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    Visit Our YouTube Channel

    The Varanger Tourist Road

    Hamningberg

    This drive begins in Hamningberg, which is an abandoned fishing village with many buildings from before World War II. 

    Before the Second World War, around 700 people lived here. Hamningberg was one of the largest fishing communities in Finnmark and took part in the Pomor trade. However, the last three people left in 1978. 

    Hamningberg Article

    Vardø Municipality

    Vardø municipality is one of the first municipalities to be established in Northern Norway. The coat-of-arms is from 1898 and represents the sunshine, fishing boats, the ocean, and a large cod. In the chief is the year of the towns founding, 1789, along with the words “Vardöensis Insignia Urbis” which means “the seal of the town of Vardø”. In the lower part of the arms is the town motto “Cedant Tenebræ Soli”, meaning “Darkness shall give way to the sun”.

    Several Stone Age sites as well as sites dating from the Sami Iron Age have been found here. Vardø became a Norwegian settlement in the medieval period, and the first church was built here in 1307.

    Fishing and seafood processing are Vardø’s major sources of income. The municipality also has large seabird colonies on the islands of Hornøya and Reinøya.

    WWII Memorial

    Memorial

    Shortly after crossing into Vardø municipality you will pass this memorial on the left side. It is for three men who were executed here during World War II. 

    The drive from Hamningberg to Vardø is incredible. Be sure to stop as much as possible!

    Vardø

    The road does not go through Vardø, but the town is a short detour off the highway. I do recommend visiting the town – there’s a lot to see and do, and it also has a petrol station and some coffee shops. 

    Vardø Travel Guide

    Domen

    Viewpoint

    The mountain Domen is fairly unique thanks to its history. It has been known as ‘Heksefjellet’ (witch mountain) for a few hundred years as it’s believed that this is the place where the witches were meeting with the devil.

    The Vardø area was regarded as one of the worst areas in terms of the scope of the brutal witch hunts. In the year 1662/63 more than 30 women in Vardø were accused of witchcraft. Many of the women said that on the mountain Domen they had danced, drunk and consorted with the Devil. Domen was also where the ceremonies and sabbaths took place.

    It was believed that the devil lived in a cave in the mountain. Vardø’s location at what seems like the end of the world inspired speculation that this was the entrance to hell. This may explain why so much witch burning went on.

    Kiberg

    Village

    Kiberg was one of the largest fishing communities in the area during the 16th and 17th centuries, and was important during the Pomor Trade era. Kiberg is still important for fishing.

    Two women from Kiberg were burned at the stake during the 1621 witchcraft trials in Vardø. Their names were Mari Jørgensdatter and Kirsti Sørensdatter, and Kirsti was the last victim of the witchcraft trials.

    Kiberg was of strategic importance during World War II. The geographical proximity to the Soviet Union brought Russian and Norwegian people together. After the occupation of Norway, many locals went to the Soviet Union. Some returned and worked for the Soviet military intelligence services, with as many as 45 partisans in Kiberg.

    Their most important task was to pass on radio communications about the German shipping fleet. It has been estimated that around 80 German merchant ships were sunk on their way to Kirkenes due to the partisans passing on information. Around half the partisans were killed or executed during the war.

    In Kiberg you can visit the Partisan Museum, which is about the events here during World War II. 

    Vadsø Municipality

    Vadsø municipality is named after the town of Vadsø that we will soon be driving through. The coat-of-arms shows a reindeer as reindeer husbandry is common for the municipality and of great economic importance, especially for the Sami people.

    The municipality spreads across the southern coast of the Varanger peninsula. There are trees here as this part of the peninsula is sheltered from the sea, but the tree line is at around 200 metres above sea level.

    Skallelv

    Village

    Skallelv was originally one of the several purely Finnish communities in the area, populated at the end of the 19th century. The local people were known as Kvens, the North-Norwegian name for people of Norwegian-Finnish descent. Skallelv is one of the few remaining areas with buildings that were constructed before World War II. The oldest wooden houses here are from before 1860.

    Ekkerøy

    Village

    There has been settlement on Ekkerøy since at least the Middle Ages, and finds from the Viking Age have been found there. However, it is not known if Vikings settled there or if they traded there.

    Ekkerøy was an island until 1750, but now there is a land connection to the mainland. Ekkerøy was built up as a fishing village and at its peak had several landing piers, shops, a school, shrimp factory, fish oil processing plant, and dried fish racks. There were 270 people living there; today there are less than 50.

    Parts of Ekkerøy have been declared a nature reserve and the island also has a small bird cliff. In the breeding season, which is from May to September, the cliffs may be home to as many as 20,000 kittiwake pairs.

    The settlement of Ekkerøy was not destroyed during World War II. The well-preserved fish factory is now a museum with warehouses, a cod liver oil steamer, an old shop and an authentically furnished traders residence.

    Vadsø

    The only major town we drive through is Vadsø. There is a lot worth seeing here, so browse our separate travel guide page below. 

    Vadsø Travel Guide

    Vestre Jakobselv

    Village

    Vestre Jakobselv is a small village with around 500 people living here. It has a primary and secondary school. The village is popular for its salmon fishing as the Jakobselva river has its outlet here.

    Nesseby Municipality

    Nesseby is a small municipality located at the isthmus between the Varangerfjord and the Tana River at the entrance to the Varanger peninsula. The population lives in small settlements along the fjord and the Varangerhalvøya National Park is partly located in the park. The municipality is known for its interesting birdlife and also its tundra with areas of bog and marsh.

    Today the municipality is known as Unjárga-Nesseby, reflecting the Sami community who live here. Nesseby was the second municipality in Norway to get a Sami name. Most of the inhabitants are Sami and Sami is being taught as the first language in schools. In historic times, reindeer used to cross this area as part of their annual migration.

    This led the Sami to coming into the area. The area between Skippagurra and Varangerbotn is full of archaeological finds from different periods.

    The coat-of-arms represents a cloudberry plant.

    The municipality is the birthplace of Isak Saba, the first Sami to be elected to the Norwegian parliament.

    Mortesnes Site

    Historic Site

    Mortesnes is considered to be one of the richest and most diverse cultural areas in Europe. The uninterrupted timeline and cultural contunity makes the area special. The land here has remains from the past, documenting a 10,000 year history of unbroken settlement and provides a picture of key feature in the development of the settlement of Finnmark after the last Ice Age. The area also provides a picture of the background and emergence of Sami cultural features.

    There is a walking trail that you can follow. Here you can see traces of settlement in the form of tent rings and tufts on the shorelines according to the past sea levels. The area also contains a large, pre-Christian burial ground, which dates from approx. 1000BC to 1500AD. Over 400 graves are here. Various sacrificial places have also been found. The most famous monument here is Transteinen, which was believed to be smeared with cod liver oil to ensure good fishing luck.

    One of the oldest ski finds in Norway comes from one of the graves in the area and was found in 1853. The skis are from 400BC. Reindeer trapping facilities have also been found here, along with various materials, tools, and objects made of ceramic and metal.

    It is free to walk around the trail, and in summer they have a museum that you can visit.

    Nesseby Church

    Historic Church

    Nesseby Church is from 1858 and is the only wooden church in Eastern Finnmark that was not destroyed by the Nazis during World War II. Parts of the inventory are from the 17th and 18th centuries and some come from other churches. For example, the altarpiece is baroque and comes from the old Kiberg Church.

    Today the church is relatively the same as when it was built.

    Outside the church is Nesseby’s oldest building: an old log cabin. It was moved here in 1746 ad the door is from the 17th century and probably originates from the time that the church stood on Vadsø.

    There is a legend as to why Nesseby Church was saved. Sverre Raddum was the parish priest here during the war. He was a big, strong and rugged fellow, and known to be a tough guy. When the Germans were going to burn Nesseby Church, he stood on the steps and waited for them with the priests collar around his neck, and did not let them in. In German, he told them: “If there is someone who goes to church or a house of worship with evil thoughts, then they are guaranteed to be punished by higher powers”. The Germans immediately gave up bruning the church. Raddum saved his church.

    Gornitak Rasteplass

    Rest Area

    Gornitak (Sámi: Gorgŋetak) means ascent. This rest area lies on the Varangerfjord close into a mountainside under a high firmament and with a view to the sea in the east. The service facilities are housed in an old, restored stone building that served as an ammunitions store during the Second World War.

    Varangerbotn

    Village

    Varangerbotn is a small village that is the administrative centre of Nesseby. The population is around 341. In Varanger you can visit the Varanger Sami Museum, a museum for the history and culture of the Sami in Varangerbotn. The museum presents the Sea Sami history, Sami prehistory, and contemporary Sami culture.

    Next Drive

    Varangerbotn to Berlevåg

    Follow this isolated drive from Varangerbotn to Berlevåg in Finnmark. 

    Varangerbotn to Berlevåg
  • European Highways, Kirkenes, Road-trips, Vadsø, Varangerbotn, Vardø

    Drive it Yourself: Kirkenes to Vardø via the E6 and E75

    Drive it Yourself: Kirkenes to Vardø on the E6 and E75

    Here’s my guide to the drive from Kirkenes to Vardø on the E75. Looking for a drive that will take you through the rugged Eastern Finnmark? To be honest, when I did this drive I had it planned as more of a “A to B” type of drive. I wasn’t expecting the scenery to be so incredible! The drive on the E6 from Kirkenes to Varangerbotn is so rocky and wild, while the E75 becomes flat and barren. This drive is incredible.

    Part of this drive does make up the Varanger Tourist Road, but I have decided to write that as a separate article. For this article, I wanted to focus on this drive as though it were just a regular highway. Enjoy!

    In this article...

    Download this Guide

    All of our guides can be downloaded via our online store. 

    Download this guide to have it as a PDF ready to go for your road-trip!

    All downloadable guides come with an interactive Google Map for easier navigation. 

    View on Store

    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Information about facilities along the way

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the region & towns
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Facilities including supermarkets, toilets, petrol, hotels, cafes, restaurants with addresses.

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    Visit Our YouTube Channel

    Kirkenes to Vardø via the E6 and E75

    Kirkenes

    This drive begins in Kirkenes, which is one of the easternmost cities in Norway. It has a fascinating war and cultural history and is worth spending some time in.

    Kirkenes Travel Guide

    Russian border

    Border crossing/detour

    It is possible to drive to the Russian border, but you cannot cross the border into Russia. You will see signs pointing to Murmansk, which is approximately 255km (158 miles), or a 3 hour drive, away. On the border is a souvenir shop, restrooms, and signs pointing to Russia that you can take photos of. 

    Bjørnevatn

    Town

    The community of Bjørnevatn, also known as ‘the mining town’, has been of strategic importance for the development of Kirkenes. The mine is Europe’s largest open-cast mine and opened in 1906. It has since closed down. The mine did reopen in 2009, but shut again in 2015 due to lower costs from other countries. Today around 2,500 people live in Bjørnevatn.

    Garrison Sør-Varanger

    Military Barracks

    The garrison in Sør-Varanger is a military unit based at Høybuktmoen. The departments main task is to patrol and monitor the Norwegian-Russian border. The garrison consists mainly of conscripted soldiers, and there are 400 new conscripts every six months. They mostly tell tourists when they are wandering into Russia, but another goal is to monitor Russian activity on the border.

    Kirkenes Airport

    Airport

    Kirkenes was originally built as a military air station by the Luftwaffe during World War II. The airport reopened for civilians in 1963 with a new terminal and extended runway.

    The airport has direct flights to Oslo and Tromsø through SAS and Norwegian, as well as Widerøe flights to Vadsø and other small coastal communities. 

    Neiden

    Village

    Neiden is regarded as the centre of Eastern Sami culture in Norway and a large proportion of the population are of Finnish descent.

     A large part of the population are Skolt Sami, which is the Orthodox Sami. In town is the Skolt Sami Museum from 2017, which is trying to preserve and present Skolt Sami culture. They also have an outdoor museum with preserved buildings from an old Skolt Sami settlement. It includes St. Georges Chapel, a Russian Orthodox chapel that was built in 1565.

    The Skolt Sami are a unique Sami group. They are more closely related to the Russians compared to the Finns or Norwegians and are regarded as a minority group amongst the Sami. They have been more severely impacted by land borders and country regulations than other Sami groups and are marked by high unemployment and low literacy rates. The Skolt Sami language is considered highly endangered and was only written down in 1992.

    There is a settlement called Neiden on the Norwegian and the Finnish side. The area used to be one settlement for the Skolt Sami, but when the borders were laid out in the 1850s they were separated. When the area was divided up, Neiden was forced to split across the countries.

    Neiden also has Neiden Chapel – built in 1902 as a Norwegian ‘dragestil’ (dragon style) church to symbolise the Norwegian state sovereignty in the area. It is a Lutheran church and is well worth seeing. The Norwegian government invited Norwegian settlers to the area, building the Lutheran church to counterbalance the Orthodox chapel.

    Skolt Sami Museum

    Museum

    The Skolt Sami museum is a cultural history museum dedicated to the Eastern Sami, or the Skolt Sami.

    Visit their website here: https://dvmv.no/en/vv-skoltesamisk-muse/avv-skoltesami-museum/

    Bugøyfjord
    Village

    Bugøyfjord is a small village along the Varangerfjord. It was a predominantly Sami community until the Kven people arrived in the 1860s. It was one of the first villages to be burned to the ground by Germans during the retreat in 1944.

    In the village is a memorial marker for John Savio. He is the first Sami person to have his own exhibition in the National Gallery in Oslo. He didn’t achieve fame during his life, but since his death has been recognised as one of the greatest Sami artists. He is also the only Sami artist to make a name for himself before World War II. He worked primarily in wood cuts.

    Nesseby Municipality

    Nesseby is a small municipality located at the isthmus between the Varangerfjord and the Tana River at the entrance to the Varanger peninsula. The population lives in small settlements along the fjord and the Varangerhalvøya National Park is partly located in the park. The municipality is known for its interesting birdlife and also its tundra with areas of bog and marsh.

    Today the municipality is known as Unjárga-Nesseby, reflecting the Sami community who live here. Nesseby was the second municipality in Norway to get a Sami name. Most of the inhabitants are Sami and Sami is being taught as the first language in schools. In historic times, reindeer used to cross this area as part of their annual migration.

    This led the Sami to coming into the area. The area between Skippagurra and Varangerbotn is full of archaeological finds from different periods.

    The coat-of-arms represents a cloudberry plant.

    The municipality is the birthplace of Isak Saba, the first Sami to be elected to the Norwegian parliament.

    Bugøynes

    Village/Detour

    Bugøynes was established by Finnish immigrants in the 19th century. They had left their own country due to political unrest and poor living conditions, and came to Norway with their experience in agriculture. They also quickly learned the knowledge of fjord fishing. The Finns also brought their religious traditions with them – a conservative Christian movement known as Læstadianism. It still holds a firm footing in the village.

    The village was saved from the destruction of World War II, so the Finnish architecture has been preserved. The Finnish influence is still strong here, and most of the people living here are of Finnish descent and have Finnish names.

    Bugøynes is around a 15-20 minute detour off the E6, but is well worth it. 

    Varangerbotn

    Village

    Varangerbotn is a small village that is the administrative centre of Nesseby. The population is around 341. In Varanger you can visit the Varanger Sami Museum, a museum for the history and culture of the Sami in Varangerbotn. The museum presents the Sea Sami history, Sami prehistory, and contemporary Sami culture.

    E6 & E75 junction

    Roundabout

    This is where the E6 and the E75 separate. The E75 continues onto the Varanger peninsula towards Vardø, while the E6 goes towards Tana Bru and Lakselv. The roundabout in town marks the beginning the National Tourist Road for Varanger, one of Norway’s 18 national tourist roads. I cover the tourist road in a separate article.

    Vadsø Municipality

    Vadsø municipality is named after the town of Vadsø that we will soon be driving through. The coat-of-arms shows a reindeer as reindeer husbandry is common for the municipality and of great economic importance, especially for the Sami people.

    The municipality spreads across the southern coast of the Varanger peninsula. There are trees here as this part of the peninsula is sheltered from the sea, but the tree line is at around 200 metres above sea level.

    Vestre Jakobselv

    Village

    Vestre Jakobselv is a small village with around 500 people living here. It has a primary and secondary school. The village is popular for its salmon fishing as the Jakobselva river has its outlet here.

    Vadsø

    The only major town we drive through is Vadsø. There is a lot worth seeing here, so browse our separate travel guide page below. 

    Vadsø Travel Guide

    Ekkerøy

    Village

    There has been settlement on Ekkerøy since at least the Middle Ages, and finds from the Viking Age have been found there. However, it is not known if Vikings settled there or if they traded there.

    Ekkerøy was an island until 1750, but now there is a land connection to the mainland. Ekkerøy was built up as a fishing village and at its peak had several landing piers, shops, a school, shrimp factory, fish oil processing plant, and dried fish racks. There were 270 people living there; today there are less than 50.

    Parts of Ekkerøy have been declared a nature reserve and the island also has a small bird cliff. In the breeding season, which is from May to September, the cliffs may be home to as many as 20,000 kittiwake pairs.

    The settlement of Ekkerøy was not destroyed during World War II. The well-preserved fish factory is now a museum with warehouses, a cod liver oil steamer, an old shop and an authentically furnished traders residence.

    Skallelv

    Village

    Skallelv was originally one of the several purely Finnish communities in the area, populated at the end of the 19th century. The local people were known as Kvens, the North-Norwegian name for people of Norwegian-Finnish descent. Skallelv is one of the few remaining areas with buildings that were constructed before World War II. The oldest wooden houses here are from before 1860.

    Vardø Municipality

    Vardø municipality is one of the first municipalities to be established in Northern Norway. The coat-of-arms is from 1898 and represents the sunshine, fishing boats, the ocean, and a large cod. In the chief is the year of the towns founding, 1789, along with the words “Vardöensis Insignia Urbis” which means “the seal of the town of Vardø”. In the lower part of the arms is the town motto “Cedant Tenebræ Soli”, meaning “Darkness shall give way to the sun”.

    Several Stone Age sites as well as sites dating from the Sami Iron Age have been found here. Vardø became a Norwegian settlement in the medieval period, and the first church was built here in 1307.

    Fishing and seafood processing are Vardø’s major sources of income. The municipality also has large seabird colonies on the islands of Hornøya and Reinøya.

    Komagvær

    Village

    Komagvær is one of the main gateways to the Varanger National Park, with a gravel road leaving from the town into the park. In the valley are many types of birds, including the Arctic Skua.

    Kiberg

    Village

    Kiberg was one of the largest fishing communities in the area during the 16th and 17th centuries, and was important during the Pomor Trade era. Kiberg is still important for fishing.

    Kiberg was of strategic importance during World War II. The geographical proximity to the Soviet Union brought Russian and Norwegian people together. After the occupation of Norway, many locals went to the Soviet Union. Some returned and worked for the Soviet military intelligence services, with as many as 45 partisans in Kiberg.

    Their most important task was to pass on radio communications about the German shipping fleet. It has been estimated that around 80 German merchant ships were sunk on their way to Kirkenes due to the partisans passing on information. Around half the partisans were killed or executed during the war.

    Vardø Tunnel

    Tunnel

    The Vardø Tunnel is a subsea road tunnel stretching 2.8km (9,400 ft) under the Bussesundet strait that connects the island of Vardøya to the mainland. The tunnel reaches a depth of 88m (289ft) and was opened in 1983.

    Vardø

    This drive finishes in Vardø, Norway’s easternmost city. Vardø is an important historic city and a fantastic place to base yourself while in Eastern Finnmark. 

    Vardø Travel Guide

    Next Drive

    Varanger Tourist Road

    Follow the Varanger Tourist Road from Hamningberg to Varangerbotn via Vardø and Vadsø. 

    Varanger Tourist Road
  • Geiranger, Loen, Olden, Road-trips, Sandane, Scenic Drives, Stryn

    Drive it Yourself: Geiranger to Sandane via Stryn & Loen

    Drive it Yourself: Geiranger to Sandane via Stryn and Loen

    In June 2023 Sean and I set off for a weekend in the fjords. The goal was to film as much as possible while the weather was good. Originally I had wanted to do the Gamle Strynefjellvegen Tourist Road, but it was still closed because of snow. Oh well – it’s just an excuse to go back!

    This road was beautiful. I hadn’t been to this part of Western Norway for years, and was reminded of just how special it was. A highlight was the stretch from Loen to Utvik; easily the most beautiful fjord I’ve driven along.

    We chose Sandane to spend the night because of the historic hotel; it was a town I had never heard of but I had heard of the hotel. 

    In this article...

    Download this Guide

    All of our guides can be downloaded via our online store. 

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

    View on Store

    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Information about facilities along the way

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the region & towns
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Facilities including supermarkets, toilets, petrol, hotels, cafes, restaurants with addresses.

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    Visit Our YouTube Channel

    Geiranger to Sandane via Stryn & Loen

    Geiranger

    This drive begins in Geiranger, a popular village due to its incredible fjord. This is also the end of the Trollstigen Tourist Road, a very popular road in Western Norway. You can read all about Geiranger via our travel guide page. 

    Geiranger Travel Guide

    Flydalsjuvet

    Scenic Overlook

    As you leave Geiranger there is a lovely viewpoint over the village and the fjord called Flydalsjuvet. It’s not to be missed!

    Knuten

    Historic Site

    Knuten (the Knot) is a section of the old road. It’s still the same as it was when it opened in 1882. It is a loop road used to get up/down the steep mountain. The road curves 270 degrees, and was designed to reduce the road graient for passing horses and people.

    It’s important to note that it’s very hard to see Knuten if you’re going down into Geiranger. It’s best viewed if going up from Geiranger.

    Cars are not allowed to go up, but people and bikes can.

    Dalsnibba Viewpoint

    We are now at the famous Dalsnibba Viewpoint. It’s a lengthy detour, but if you can see the mountain peaks, it’s well worth doing.

    Dalsnibba is a viewpoint located at an altitude of 1,746m. From the top, you can see Geiranger, the Geirangerfjord, and the road we’ve taken to get here. The view is unlike anything else. The road is only 5km (3 mi) off the main road, but it takes a long time as the road is narrow, has many hairpin bends, and often has a lot of traffic.

    The road has a toll as it is a private road. You can see updated prices via the link in the description. At the top you’ll find a café, souvenir shop, and incredible views. It is often very, very cold and very windy. Bring extra layers! Snow is common all year round.

    Dalsnibba Viewpoint

    Innlandet County

    Skjåk Municipality

    Skjåk is a municipality in Innlandet. It’s part of the traditional region of Gudbrandsdalen. The name comes from an old farm.

    After the last Ice Age, it’s believed reindeer followed the ice as it retreated north to Scandinavia. Skjåk is in the middle of the central migration route for the Scandinavian reindeer. There are ancient large hunting facilities and traces of settlements that show hunting and trapping was important here from the Ice Age until today. There are farm names that date back to the Iron Age. There is a hunting facility for moose from 220-570AD.

    The region is mentioned in the Viking Age and has a rich cultural heritage. St. Olav supposedly travelled through the valley when he was Christianising the villages. He christianised Lom, but Skjåk refused. As a result, the village was burned. St. Olav said: “It’s a pity to burn such a beautiful village”.

    There was a high population growth during the Middle Ages, and there were around 120 farms here just before the Black Death in 1349. After the plague, the population was more than halved. In the second half of the 17th century, the population recovered to the pre-plague numbers. Most of the farms in Skjåk were owned by the farmers. From 1730, the forest began to be exploited for the timber industry.

    You will then turn right, following signs towards Stryn. We did this trip in the low season so were not able to do the Gamle Strynefjellvegen Tourist Road, but if you are doing this drive from mid-June to early September, the road will be open. 

    Vestlandet County

    Stryn Municipality

    Stryn municipality is located around the innermost part of the Nordfjorden. Farming, forestry, fruit growing, animal breeding for fur and manufacturing is important to the region. Stryn is also known for its all-year glacier skiing at Stryn Sommerski.

    Strynefjellet

    Mountains

    Strynefjellet is a mountain range that separates Vestland and Innlandet counties. The mountain area is partly within the Breheimen National Park and the mountains are the main watershed between West and East Norway.

    Oppstrynsvatn

    Lake

    The Oppstrynsvatnet lake is the main outflow of the river Stryneelva, which flows west into the Nordfjorden. The village we are driving through is located by the lake. This is where you also find the Jostedalsbreen National Park Centre.

    Stryn

    The village of Stryn has a population of around 2,600 people. One of the fastest growing industries here is tourism because of the proximity to the national parks and popular areas like Geiranger. Stryn is the administrative centre for the region.

    Stryn Travel Guide

    Loen Skylift

    The Loen Skylift is an incredible cable car that rises 1000m (3300ft) above sea level. We covered it in a separate article, which you can see below. 

    Loen Skylift (coming soon)

    Loen

    Loen is a small village located on the inner part of the Nordfjord. Loen is home to the historic Hotel Alexandra, which opened in 1884. It is named after Princess Alexandra of Denmark. The hotel has undergone a lot of development since it opened, and it is currently in its fifth generation of the same family running it. Loen Church is from 1838 and is located higher up in the valley, but historical records indicate that a church has been here since the early 14th century.

    Loen Travel Guide

    Olden

    Olden is a small village with around 500 people. This is where the larger cruise ships dock that are heading to Loen or the Jostedalsbreen National Park. In 2019, 102 cruise ships came here. The Briksdalsbreen glacier is a popular hiking destination and is located about 25km (16 mi) from Olden.

    Olden Travel Guide

    Innvik

    Village

    Innvik is a small village with around 430 people living there. At its peak, however, there were over 3,000 people living here.

    Utvik

    Village

    Utvik is a small village with around 332 people living there. The village is located on the southern side of the Nordfjord. Utvik has been an important communications hub for hundreds of years. The Royal Trondheim Postal Route was established through here in 1795, and at Utvik the postal workers would take a boat to the northern side of the fjord.

    Utvik developed as an important place for trade. There was an inn, pier, post office, bakers, dyers, and blacksmiths living here. Trade has existed here since the mid-17th century. Additionally, there has been a church in Utvik since the 14th century, though the church the village has today is from 1840. The altarpiece and pulpit are from 1617, while the church bells are from the Middle Ages.

    Today Utvik has a large production of fruit and berries.

    Gloppen Municipality

    Gloppen is a municipality located just south of the Nordfjord with around 5,800 people living there. Part of the municipality is located around the Gloppefjorden. Gloppen is one of the largest agricultural municipalities in Western Norway and accounts for 10% of Norway’s milk production.

    The word ‘Gloppen’ comes from the old Norse Gloppi and means “narrow opening”. The area was an important place in the Viking Age, and a number of burial mounds have been found here. Some of the oldest burial mounds go back to the 4th century. Karnilshaugen is West Norway’s largest mound – 7 metres high and a diameter of 50 metres. It was probably built as an astronomical mark as the mound is the last point to receive sun during the winter solstice.

    Sandane

    Sandane is a small town with a population of 2,500. The centre is fairly modern, but people have lived here for hundreds of years. The village has a high school, football team, gold course and small airport. The main square of the town is Heradsplassen, which has a monument of a copy of a wooden object that was found dating to the 4th century. The original is in the Historical Museum in Bergen. This is the only wood carving of its type to be found in Norway; similar objects have been found in Iran and Afghanistan.

    Sandane is home to the Gloppen Hotel, one of Norway’s historic hotels. The hotel was established in 1866 and is today owned by the hotel chain Classic Norway. It was extended in 1921 and now has a Swiss-style appearance. The highlight of the hotel is the kitchen. Gloppen Mat is the hotels own production kitchen in the back garden, and the restaurant only serves locally sourced food.

    Sandane Travel Guide

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

    Previous Drive

    Trollstigen Tourist Road

    Before this drive, we completed the Trollstigen Tourist Road. 

    Trollstigen Tourist Road
  • Ålesund, Åndalsnes, Dombås, European Highways, Road-trips

    Drive it Yourself: Dombås to Ålesund via Åndalsnes on the E136

    Drive it Yourself: Dombås to Ålesund via Åndalsnes on the E136

    Here’s my guide to the drive from Dombås to Ålesund on the E136. In June 2023 Sean and I decided to take advantage of a sunny weekend and head out to the fjords for a road-trip. I have only ever driving along Trollveggen once, and I vaguely remembered it. However, I had heard over and over again how beautiful it was and realised this was the perfect chance to see the mountains. The drive is short but so beautiful and a great thing to do before climbing up Trollstigen. 

    In this article...

    Download this Guide

    All of our guides can be downloaded via our online store. 

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

    View on Store

    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Information about facilities along the way

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the region & towns
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Facilities including supermarkets, toilets, petrol, hotels, cafes, restaurants with addresses.

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    Visit Our YouTube Channel

    Dombås to Ålesund on the E136

    Dombås Travel Guide

    This drive begins in Dombås, an important transportation hub. You can read about Dombås on our travel guide below. 

    Dombås Travel Guide

    E136

    Highway

    The E136 highway goes between Ålesund and Dombås, connecting the coastal city with the E6 highway that runs through Norway. The E136 is the main road running between Eastern Norway and the Ålesund/Molde region.

    The old road was, in historic times, an important road for the farmers of the northern part of the Gudbrandsdalen valley and the surrounding mountain villages. They would use the road to get access to the sea, where they could buy items like salt.

    This was one of the first roads between Eastern and Western Norway to be paved as a driving road. Old stations still exist along the road where those travelling in carriages would stop to rest.

    The road runs parallel to the Rauma Railway, a scenic train. Construction for the railway began in 1912 and it was open in 1924. The railway is today mostly a scenic train.

    Lesja Municipality

    Lesja is a mountainous municipality located in the traditional Gudbrandsdalen region. Most of the municipality is above 900m above sea level. The main industry here is agriculture, employing around 30% of the population.

    Rauma Valley

    Valley

    The Romsdalen valley is one of the most spectacular valleys in Norway. Large parts of the valley are narrow and run between high alpine mountains. The valley floor rises from the Romsdalsfjorden and the Rauma river runs through the valley.

    Lesjaverk

    Valley

    Lesjaverk is a small village located at 633m above sea level. In 1659, an ironworks was established here. The mines had a very uneven supply of ore and business here was never stable. However, the iron ore was of very good quality due to the amount of chromium in the ore. The ironworks closed in 1812 as the operation was of never any great importance. Remnants of the mine exist around the village.

    Bjorli

    Village

    Bjorli is a small village that is popular for skiing, with the Bjorli Ski Centre being located here. The area has stable snow conditions and a long ski season. Bjorli is also a good base for the Dovrefjell-Sunndalsfjella National Park. One scene in ‘Harry Potter and the Half-Blood Prince’ was filmed in this area because of its unique mountainous terrain.

    Møre og Romsdal County

    Rauma Municipality

    Rauma municipality is known for its incredible diversity of nature. In the outer parts, the mountains are low and the slopes are gentler. In the inner parts, the slopes are steeper and many mountains have vertical walls. The highest mountain is Pyttegga, at 1999m above sea level.

    Agriculture has traditionally been the most important industry in Rauma, but the number of farms has been greatly reduced since the last half of the 20th century. In the mid-19th century the area became industrialised with textiles factories, and Rauma wool was established in 1927. Today tourism is an important industry.

    Trollveggen

    Mountain Wall

    You are now beginning your drive along Trollveggen, the ‘Troll Wall’ in English. It is Europe’s highest vertical cliff and is approximately 1,700 metres high, with around a 1,000 metre vertical drop. The area has been popular with climbers since the 1960s.

    Kors Kirke

    Church

    Soon we will pass Kors Kirke on the right. This church is from 1797 but was moved from its original location to here in 1902. There has been a church in the valley since the 15th century.

    Trollveggen Visitor Centre

    Trollveggen Visitor Centre is located close to the start of the Trollstigen Tourist Road. Here you’ll find restrooms, a cafeteria and a souvenir shop. There is also some information about Trollveggen and the surrounding area. 

    Trollstigen Tourist Road

    Shortly before arriving at Åndalsnes, you’ll pass the turn-off to the Trollstigen Tourist Road, one of Norway’s 18 national tourist roads. It is a lengthy detour, but is well worth doing!

    Trollstigen Tourist Road

    Åndalsnes

    Åndalsnes is a scenic fjord-side town with all the major facilities you need during a road-trip. It is also am excellent place to stay if you want to break up the drive. 

    Åndalsnes Travel Guide

    Veblungsnes

    Village

    Veblungsnes is a small village just across the river from Åndalsnes. It is a historic farm that has existed for hundreds of years. In the last 200 years it has developed into a village. The Rauma wool company is located here. The local church, Grytten Church, is from 1829.

    After passing through the village, you’ll go through the 6.5km-long Innfjord Tunnel. 

    Innfjorden

    Village

    Innfjorden is a small village located within Rauma municipality. The village is primarily agricultural. The Innfjorden fjord that the village sits along is a branch of the Romsdalsfjorden.

    Vestnes Municipality

    Vestnes is a mountainous municipality that is mentioned in the Norse sagas, when a chieftain lived here. The municipality is divided into three by two fjords. The main industry here is agriculture, with some maritime industry and boat building.

    Vikebukt

    Village

    Vikebukt is a small village with around 650 people living here. The larger town of Molde is located just across the fjord, but a ferry is needed to get across there. The village has been inhabited since the Viking Age, and today a number of burial mounds can be found throughout the area.

    After driving through Vikebukt you cross the Tresfjordbrua Bridge. 

    Vestnes

    Village

    Vestnes village is located on the shore of the Tresfjorden, which is a branch of the Romsdalsfjord. It is the administrative centre for the municipality. This is also where the E39 merges with the E136, which you have been travelling on so far. From Vestnes it is possible to take a ferry across to Molde.

    Ålesund Municipality

    Ålesund

    Ålesund is one of the larger towns along the west Norwegian coast. It is most famous for its Art Nouveau architecture and modern fishing industry. Read our guide to Ålesund below. 

    Ålesund Travel Guide

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

    Previous Drive

    Lom to Dombås

    See the previous day’s drive from Lom to Dombås via Highway 15 and the E6. 

    Lom to Dombås

    Next Drive

    Trollstigen Tourist Road

    On the next drive, we take the Trollstigen Tourist Road from Åndalsnes across to Geiranger. 

    Trollstigen Tourist Road
  • Dombås, Lom, National Highways, Road-trips, Sognefjord, Vågåmo

    Drive it Yourself: Lom to Dombås on the Rv15 & E6

    Drive it Yourself: Lom to Dombås on the Rv15 & E6

    Here’s my guide from Lom to Dombås on the Rv15 and E6 highways. In June 2023 Sean and I decided to take a scenic road-trip through the fjords of Western Norway while the weather was good. My goal was to redo Trollstigen, which we had already done but only ever in bad weather. To get there, I thought it would be interesting to drive from Dombås along the Trollveggen mountains. This drive from Lom to Dombås doesn’t exactly have the most spectacular views, but it is a practical way of getting from west to east Norway. There are some interesting historic places along the way, and we cover those below. 

    In this article...

    Download this Guide

    All of our guides can be downloaded via our online store. 

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

    View on Store

    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Information about facilities along the way

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the region & towns
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Facilities including supermarkets, toilets, petrol, hotels, cafes, restaurants with addresses.

    Lom to Dombås via the Rv15 and E6

    Lom Travel Guide

    Lom is a beautiful town and well worth a visit when in Norway. It is located between some of Norway’s most famous national parks and is home to Lom Stave Church, one of the most impressive stave churches left. 

    Lom Travel Guide

    Garmo

    Village

    Garmo is an interesting historic village. The village is mentioned in documents back to the 13th century as a major farm. Over the centuries it has been divided into smaller farms.

    One of the famous legends from Garmo is how it got its first church. The legend says that Torgeir, an old man from Garmo, was given fishing rights by King Olav (later Saint Olav) after a dispute in 1021 in exchange for converting to Christianity and building a church. The right to fish was always highly valued.

    Garmo Stave Church is from around 1130. The church is no longer in the village; it was moved to Maihaugen in Lillehammer in 1921. The writer and Nobel Prize winner Knut Hamsun was baptized at the stave church in Garmo. His childhood home was located near Lom.  

    Today the village is known for its tradition-rich fiddling community.

    Vågå Municipality

    We are now in the Våga municipality, which itself is located within the Otta Valley. The area is mentioned in the Old Norse Sagas, and it is said that King Olav stayed here while christianising the region. The population was told they had to become Christian, or their homes would be burned down.

    Most of the municipality is higher than 900m above sea level, and on the northern side of the valley the mountains can reach peaks of 1500m – 1600m above sea level.

    Valdresflye Tourist Road

    Just before reaching the village of Vågåmo, you’ll pass the turn to drive onto the Valdresflye Tourist Road, one of Norway’s 18 national tourist roads. You can learn more about it in a separate article. 

    Valdresflye Tourist Road

    Vågåmo

    Vågåmo is a small village with around 1,500 people living there. It is located by the Våga Lake. In the centre of town is the Vågå Chruch from the 17th century that was partly built with parts from an older stave church. The Vågå rectory (Ullinsvin) is where Edvard Munch’s great grandmother had a herb garden.

    Vågåmo is one of the driest areas in Norway but has been hit by floods and landslides. Extreme floods and landslides have occurred throughout history; the best known is from 1789 while the most recent major event was in 2006.

    Edvard Munch's Vågå

    Sel Municipality

    Sel is regarded as the gateway to some of the most beautiful mountain areas in Norway, including Rondane and Jotunheimen. The word ‘sel’ comes from the Old Norse ‘sil’, which means ‘still, flowing water’. Here there is little rainfall, cold winters, and warm summers.

    The village of Sel has several historic farmhouses. The famous novel “Kristin Lavransdatter” by Sigrid Undset is set in Sel on a fictional farm, and the movie from the 1990s was filmed here.

    Rondane National Park

    When the Rv15 meets up with the E6, there will be some turn-offs to head towards the Rondane National Park. We covered this in a separate article. 

    Rondane National Park

    Dovre Municipality

    Dovre is a municipality within the Gudbrandsdalen valley. Large parts of the municipality include the Rondane, Dovrefjell-Sunndalsfjella and Dovre national parks. The municipality is known for its rich flora and fauna, especially the musk ox. There are also populations of wild reindeer and wolverines.

    Dombås

    Dombås is a small town with a population of around 1,161 and is located at the northern part of Gudbrandsdalen. The village is a popular hub for access to the national parks in the surrounding area.

    In historic times, Dombås was an important station for travellers heading between Oslo and Trondheim. Today it is still an important transport hub, with the Dovrebanen and Raumabanen railways meeting here. Also, the E6 and E136 highways meet here.

    Dombås Travel Guide

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

    Previous Drive

    Lærdal to Lom

    See the previous day’s drive from Lærdal to Lom via Tindeveien and the Sognefjellet Tourist Road. 

    Lærdal to Lom

    Next Drive

    Dombås to Åndalsnes

    On the next drive, we take the E136 from Dombås to Åndalsnes, driving alongside the incredible Trollveggen mountain range. 

    Dombås to Åndalsnes
  • Årdal, Lærdal, Lom, Road-trips, Scenic Drives, Sognefjord

    Drive it Yourself: Lærdal to Lom via Tindeveien & Sognefjellet

    Drive it Yourself: Lærdal to Lom via Tindeveien & Sognefjellet

    Here’s my self-guided drive for the journey from Lærdal to Lom via the Sognefjellet Tourist Road. In June 2023, Sean and I decided to head out for a weekend in the fjords. Very good weather was forecast, and we didn’t want to miss an opportunity to see this area in the sun! The last time we did Sognefjellet, in September 2020, it was incredibly stormy and we missed all the views. 

    We left Bergen in the afternoon and had a brief break in Lærdal before beginning the journey. I didn’t know what to expect when driving through Årdal to get to Sognefejllet; I had never heard of Tindeveien before and figured it would just be some back road. But wow, was I wrong. Tindeveien was one of the most beautiful roads I have driven on in Norway. Why don’t more people know about it? Well, hopefully I can share it to other people driving in Western Norway.

    Here’s my guide to the very, very scenic drive from Lærdal to Lom via Tindeveien and Sognefjellet. 

    In this article...

    Lærdal to Lom via Tindeveien & Sognefjellet

    Lærdal Travel Guide

    Lærdal has been a trading place since the Middle Ages and probably took over from the old Viking marketplace Kaupanger. Coastal farmers brought herring and fish and exchanged goods with mountain farmers from Valdres and Hallingdal. The Lærdal Market is first mentioned in written sources in 1596. It eventually ended but restarted in 1982 and is still held every year.

    Lærdal Travel Guide

    Sognefjord

    Fjord

    We are now driving along the Sognefjord, which is the longest and deepest fjord in Norway. It is 205km (approx. 125 mi) long and 1303m deep at its deepest point. The width varies from 1 to 2km up to 4 to 5km. Many of the mountains around the fjord are around 1,000 metres high.

    The Sognefjord has been an important transport artery since ancient times. From the innermost arms of the fjord it is a relatively short distance to the inland villages in Eastern Norway.

    The Sognefjord has good herring fishing. In the outer parts of the fjord, salmon has traditionally been fished. There is also some fish farming in the outer parts.

    Årdal Municipality

    Årdal has long been known as a municipality for heavy industry. In 1702, the Årdal Copperworks was established, and there were also sawmills and hydropower plants in this area. In 1948, aluminium production started in Årdal. The aluminium works has been the cornerstone company in Årdal for over 50 years. It was started by the Nazis furing World War II.

    In recent years there has been a lot of investment into tourism and green industries. The municipality has been featured on several television programs in recent years, and the hike in Øvre Årdal has become famous on social media.

    Årdal is still at the forefront of industrial technological development in the fields of aluminium, solar cell production and hydropower.

    Årdal

    Årdalstangen is the main town in Årdal municipality, with a population of around 1,3700. This is largely an industrial town, with a shipping port for the Aluminium company here. There is also a carbon plant, laboratory and administration building for Norsk Hydro here. The old mining office from 1702 is located at the administration building.

    Årdal Travel Guide

    Øvre Årdal

    Village

    Øvre Årdal is a settlement and industrial site. It is where the major aluminium plant is in the region. In Øvre Årdal you’ll also find the famous hiking trail called Tusenmeteren, which was the old road from Øvre Årdal to Valdres constructed in 1937. The train has become increasingly popular on social media because of its incredible views.

    Tindeveien

    Scenic Road

    Tindeveien is the old mountain road between Årdal and Turtagrø. The road is also the main link between the Sognefjord to the Jotunheimen National Park area. The road is only open from May to November due to snow. The road is also part of the shortest land connection between Bergen and Trondheim.

    The road does have a toll booth – payable by credit card. The toll booth is located at the highest point on the road, 1315 metres above sea level.

    Turtagrø

    Mountain Lodge

    Turtagrø is located at 900 metres above sea level and is a popular starting point for many hiking trips. The area has been an important stopping place on the road over the mountain between Lom and Skjolden for a long time. In the 1880s the farmer Ole Berge gave travellers food and shelter, and many Englishmen and pioneers in Nordic mountain sports came to his farm.

    The first hotel was built here in 1888 and helped developed the area as an important meeting place and haunt for mountaineers and hikers. Edvard Grieg also played at the hotel several times. The historic building burned down in 2001 and Ole Berge Draegni, the fourth generation owner, quickly planned a new hotel. It reopened in 2002. Ole Berge Draegni died in the flood disaster in Thailand in 2004. His daughter took over from him.

    The area, known as Hurrungane, is one of Norway’s most alpine areas, with 24 peaks over 2,000 metres above sea level. The peaks have sharp tops and are often separated by glacier formations. Many of the mountains require experienced climbers.

    Nedre Oscarshaug

    Photo Stop

    Nedre Oscarshaug is one of the popular photo stops on the Sognefjellet Tourist Road. Here you can see many of the mountains over the Hurrungane mountain range as well as the valley down to the Sognefjord.

    Sognefjellet

    Tourist Road

    The Sognefjellet Tourist Road is one of Norway’s 18 national tourist roads. It is located on the border between the Innlandet and Vestlandet counties. The mountain crossing has been used for centuries, and it was a popular trade route for bringing grain over from the east to the west.

    From the 19th century onwards, the area developed as a popular place for hikers and climbers, and a number of mountain lodges were established. The first road was completed in 1915, though it has been upgraded since then. Today it is one of the most popular tourist roads. The road is only open in the summer months.

    Innlandet County

    You will cross into Innlandet County, which is a county located in the inner parts of Norway. It has no connection to the sea. 

    Galdbygde

    Village

    Galdbygde is a small village with lodgings for the mountains. It is also where you take the road up to Galdhøpiggen, the highest mountain in Norway. Of course, you can’t drive all the way to the top. This takes you to the start of the hiking trail. 

    Lom Municipality

    You drive into Lom Municipality, which is where our final stop is. 

    Lom

    Welcome to Lom! Lom is a gorgeous village located between three national parks. It is also home to one of Norway’s most impressive stave churches. 

    Lom Travel Guide

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

    Next Drive

    Lom to Dombås

    Follow our next drive from Lom to Dombås. 

    Lom to Dombås
  • Harstad, Lofoten Islands, Road-trips, Scenic Drives, Sortland, Svolvaer, Vesterålen

    Drive it Yourself: Harstad to Svolvær (via the Fv83)

    Drive it Yourself: Harstad to Svolvær (via the Fv83)

    The drive between Harstad and Svolvær is a scenic drive through the traditional regions of Vesterålen and Lofoten.

    There are actually two ways to get between the two towns. The first way is to follow the E10, the major highway that runs through Lofoten. We covered that drive in 2021 (click here to read it). This way, via the Fv83, is the second way. It does take a little longer, but it is worth it. The Fv83 is regarded as a scenic road for the Vesterålen region, which is just as beautiful as Lofoten but with less tourists. It does include one ferry, but the ferry runs regularly. 

    Here’s our guide to the drive from Harstad to Svolvær via the Fv83. 

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    Harstad to Svolvær

    Harstad Travel Guide

    Read more about Harstad, one of the largest towns in Northern Norway, below. 

    Harstad Travel Guide

    Kvæfjord Municipality

    Kvæfjord municipality is a scenic municipality located on the island of Hinnøya, which is the largest island in Norway. Around 2,800 people live in the municipality. Kvæfjord is known for its agricultural heritage and its production of strawberries and potatoes. The farms here benefit from south-facing slopes and bright nights under the midnight sun. The fjord is known for its rich supply of herring.

    Archaeological evidence shows there has been settlement here since at least the Iron Age, and there are farms that have evidence of habitation back to 300BC. Some place names in the area come from the Viking Age. There has also always been a small Sami settlement in the area.

    Kvæfjord is home to Norway’s national cake, the Kvæfjord cake. The cake is made with meringue, vanilla cream and almonds.

    Kvæøya

    Island

    You’ll pass a right turn that takes you towards the island. Kvæøya is a small island in the Kvæfjord. It is connected to the mainland via a small bridge, the Kvæøy Bridge, which was completed in 2010. The island is highly regarded for its farming, with large farms on the southern and western sides. 

    Hemmestad

    Village

    Hemmestad is a small village with an interesting history. It used to be the ‘capital’ of Kvæfjord and was a major trading area. In the village today you’ll find the old Hemmstad Brygge (pier), a heritage-listed building that was the trading centre for Kvæfjord throughout the 19th century. Twice a year boats came here with coffee, spices, candy, textiles and spirits. From Hemmestad, rockfish, cod, fowl and mullet was exported.

    Today Hemmestad Brygge is a museum complex that explains the history of trade here.

    Refnes - Flesnes

    Ferry

    You will now take the ferry between Refnes and Flesnes, two small villages on either side of the Gullesfjorden. 

    Bogen

    Settlement

    Bogen is a small settlement that relies on agriculture and fish farming. There is an annual festival here called Flesnes i fest, where several hundred people come to compete in football and car races.

    Langvassbukta

    Village

    Langvassbukta is a small village by the Gullefjord. This is where the county road ends. From here, it turns into Highway 85 (Rv85). To go towards Lofoten, turn left towards Lødingen. It is also recommended to take a scenic detour to Sortland and back.

    This guide follows the scenic detour. 

    Sortland Municipality

    Sortland municipality is the administrative centre for the region and is named after the town of Sortland, which is the largest town and commercial centre in the traditional region of Vesterålen. It is part of the county of Nordland.

    The municipality is spread across the islands of Langøya and Hinnøya in the Vesterålen archipelago. The mountain Møysalen is part of the Møysalen National Park, located in the southern part of the municipality. The midnight sun occurs from the 23rd of May to the 23rd of July, while the polar night occurs from the 30th of November until the 12th of January.

    Sigerfjord

    Town

    Sigerfjord is a small town with around 800 people living there. The church is from 1933 but has a figure of St. Olav from the 15th century inside. It came from an earlier church on the same spot. The town has a primary school and kindergarten. Most of the industry here is connected to the sea.

    Sortland

    Sortland is the main town and administrative centre for the region. It is also known as the ‘blue city’.

    Sortland is a 15 minute detour from Sigerfjord, but is well worth it if you want to stop for a coffee break or pick up some supplies.

    You can read about Sortland via our travel guide below. 

    Sortland Travel Guide

    This drive now continues back towards Lødingen. You’ll reach a round-a-bout and turn onto the E10 towards Å i Lofoten. 

    Hadsel Municipality

    Hadsel municipality is located on four main islands in Vesterålen – Hinnøya, Langøya, Hadseløya, and Austvågøya.

    Hadsel has been an important hub for the fishing industry, and due to its proximity to Lofoten has always been an important trading place for Lofoten residents. The oldest settlements were likely on the southern side of Hadseløya, but the main harbour has always been Stokmarknes.

    The name “Hadsel” comes from the Old Norse word “Hovdasegl”, meaning “main sail”. The name describes that Hadseløya can look like a merged mainsail on a Nordland boat when you see Hadseløya from Langøya. The Sami name for Hadsel is Ulpesuohkan, referring to the old name for the area (Ulvøya).

    The main airport here is the Stokmarknes Airport, the busiest small aircraft airport in Norway. Stokmarknes is also the birthplace of Hurtigruten, the Norwegian coastal ferry.

    The coat of arms represents four yellow rings, representing the four main islands the municipality is on.

    Vågan Municipality

    Vågan is a major municipality in Lofoten. It includes most of the island Austvågøy as well as Gimsøya. It is the easternmost of Lofoten’s six municipalities. The main town in Vågan is Svolvær, where this drive ends. Fishing is the most important industry here, and Vågan is North Norway’s 8th largest fishing municipality.

    Austnesfjorden

    Photo stop

    The view is excellent over the fjord and you can see Sildpollnes Church in the distance.

    Sildpollnes Church is a small white wooden church from 1891. The church had some drama recently, when the current neighbour refused to let people through his property to get to the church because he said the 1890 agreement stated people could pass on foot, but it didn’t mention automobiles. The church closed in 2015 and the case went to court, with the neighbour loosing and the Lofoten District Court ruling in favour of the church.

    At the photo stop they have a place you can walk up to with a viewing platform. I’ve used a photo of it at the top of this page. This is where you get the view out to the church. 

    Svolvær Airport

    Airport

    Svolvær Airport is a regional airport in Lofoten. While it is one of the main airports for Lofoten, it is likely not the one you will fly to if you are flying to Lofoten – instead, it’s better to fly to Harstad/Narvik and drive from there. Svolvær Airport is served by Widerøe and the routes are subsidized by the government with direct flights to Bodø, Oslo, and small communities in Nordland county. There are plans to make a new primary airport to serve the Lofoten and Vesterålen region, making it more attractive to visit out of the tourist season.

    Svolvær

    We have made it to Svolvær, the end of today’s drive! You can read more about Svolvær on our dedicated travel page. 

    Svolvær Travel Guide

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

    Previous Drive

    Kiruna to Harstad via Narvik

    See the previous day’s drive from Kiruna in Sweden to Harstad in Norway via the Norwegian town of Narvik. 

    Kiruna to Harstad via Narvik
  • Aurland, Bergen, European Highways, Fagernes, Flåm, Hønefoss, Lærdal, Norway, Oslo, Road-trips, Vang, Voss

    Drive it Yourself: Oslo to Bergen on the E16

    Drive it Yourself: Oslo to Bergen on the E16

    The E16 between Oslo and Bergen follows the historic road between east and west Norway that has existed for thousands of years. Over the centuries the road has gradually been modernised, but traces of the past remain.

    While the E16 is the longer way between the two cities, the road is lined with historic monuments, including stave churches, runestones, and lodgings. It makes for a great, scenic road-trip!

    Here’s our guide to the E16 highway. 

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    • Information about points of interest
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    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
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    • Information about points of interest
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    • Historic overview of the region & towns
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    The Drive: Oslo to Bergen on the E16

    This drive begins in Oslo. 

    Oslo Travel Guide

    Read more about Oslo, Norway’s capital, on our dedicated travel guide page. Click the button below. 

    Oslo Travel Guide

    Sandvika

    Neighbourhood

    The first neighbourhood you drive through is called Sandvika. While it is technically part of Oslo city, it is in many ways regarded as its own community. The population is approximately 130,000.

    Claude Monet visited the city in 1895. During his visit, he painted the city. Perhaps the most famous work from this visit is “Sandviken Village in Snow”, which shows the Løkka Bridge in the foreground with the hill Kolsås in the background. The bridge still stands today.

    The area of Sandvika has existed since for thousands of years. The Sandvik grounds were rich fishing grounds that provided an important supplement to the farms in Sandvika.

    Sandvika is home to Scandinavia’s largest super mall – the Sandvika Storsenter – with 190 stores and a total area of 60,000 square metres or 650,000 square feet.

    Hole Municipality

    The municipality of Hole is situated around the Tyrifjord, where the soil is fertile and suited to growing fruit, berries, and other agricultural products. The coat-of-arms depicts the four Norwegian Kings who lived in the municipality in the 9th to 11th centuries. The most famous of the four is St. Olav (Olav Haraldsson), though Harald Hårdrade is a close second for fame – he was the one credited with ending the Viking Age at the Battle of Stamford Bridge in 1066. The other three kings are Halvdan Svarte (820-860), Sigurd Syr (-1018), and Harald Hardråde (1015-1066). Harald Hardråde is the king who lost at the Battle of Stamford Bridge in 1066, which is considered to be the event when the Viking Age ended.

    Hole is important in Norwegian history. Archaeological finds from the Roman and Migration periods are numerous, and Hole is known as one of the traditional landscapes from the Viking Age and plays a prominent role in the Norse sagas.

    Stein Church Ruins (Stein Kirkeruin) are located at Steinsfjorden. The church was constructed in the latter half of the 1100s. By the second half of the 1500s, the chapel was no longer in use. There are some historic churches in the area: Bønsnes Church is a medieval church from 1100 and Hole Church is probably from 1200.

    Utøya

    Memorial

    As you drive along the Tyrifjord, down on your left is the island Utøya. This was the site of the terrorist attack that happened in Norway in 2011. It is possible to take a detour down to the memorial site. On GPS it is marked as “Minnesmerke Utøya”.

    Tyrifjord

    Lake

    The Tyrifjord is a lake (not a fjord like the name suggests). It is the fifth largest large in Norway with an area of 139km2 and a maximum depth of 295m. It is one of Norway’s most species-rich lakes. The lake used to be part of the sea, but as the land has risen it has become landlocked. In the fjord, free fishing without a licence is accepted based on tradition and custom. Brown trout is caught in the lake, though crayfish is also popular. 

    Sundvollen

    Village

    Sundvollen is a village located along the eastern part of the Tyrifjord. The name comes from the name of a farm that used to be here. Sundvollen is most noted for its hotels. Sundvolden Hotel is one of Norway’s oldest hotels – it was mentioned in written sources dating from 1648. Kleivstua Hotel was a coaching inn in 1780 which catered to travellers going between Christiania (Oslo) and Ringerike. It is on the Old Royal Bergen Road, the historic road between Oslo and Hadeland. The road is also part of the Old Pilgrims Route from Oslo to Trondheim. Understandably, there were many travellers coming through here. They would stop at one of the hotels for food, accommodations, and to give their horses a rest. Unfortunately both of the hotels have been renovated extensively, so there’s no trace of the original lodgings. 

    Petroglyphs from the Bronze Age have been found approximately 100m from the E16 and show ship figures, circuit figures and bowl pits. 

    In Sundvollen you can hike to “Kongens Utsikt”, a scenic viewpoint overlooking the Tyrifjord. 

    Norderhov Church

    Historic Church

    Norderhov Church is a medieval church that was built in 1170. The church is built in local sandstone and limestone in a Romanesque style of architecture. The church was built on a former pagan court for the god Njord, and that’s where the name Norderhob comes from. The church was historically the most important church in Ringerike. 

    Across the road from the church is Norderhov’s old rectory, which is now the Ringerike Museum. The museum has runestones and its collection of the private belongings of Jørgen Engebretsen Moe, a Norwegian author most famous for ‘Norske Folkeeventyr”, a collection of Nowegian folk tales which he edited in collaboration with Peter Christen Asbjørnsen. 

    The church and vicarage are known for their close association with the vicar’s wife Anna Colbjørnsdatter (1667-1736), who legend says tricked the Swedes by getting the Colonel drunk. This gave the far smaller Norwegian-Danish force an opportunity to inflict a defeat on the Swedes. This was in connection with the Battle of Norderhov in 1716. She then received heroine status and is one of the very few female heroes in Norwegian history. She was married to historian and parish priest Jonas Ramus and they are in the crypt under the church. Her portrait can be seen inside the church. The pulpit is from 1582 and is considered one of Norway’s oldest preserved pulpits. 

    Hønefoss Travel Guide

    You don’t drive through Hønefoss on the E16; it is approximately a five-minute drive into the town. However, this is the first major town that you pass on the drive, so it can be a useful rest stop. 

    Hønefoss is regarded as the centre of Ringerike. The town is located by a waterfall and is founded on the sawmill business that arose from the waterfall in the 17th century. Hønefoss is home to several factories and other industry, with Norske Skog Follum, a timber company, having its headquarters here. Dating from 1873, Norske Skog Follum was one of the largest producers of newsprint in Europe until it closed in 2012. 

    HØNEFOSS Travel Guide

    Follum

    Village

    Follum is a small village after Hønefoss on the western side of the Ådal River. It is on the old road that led to the Ådal Valley. The name comes from the oldest farm in the area. 

    Ådal Valley

    Valley

    You are now driving through the Ådal Valley. 

    The first church built in Ådal was a stave church built during the 15th century. It is mentioned in the Diplomatarium Norvegicum in 1462. The church was eventually removed to make way for a larger, more modern church. 

    Viker Church is located on the western shore of the Sperillen Lake and is from 1702. The pulpit, altar and crucifers from the old stave church are inside Viker Church. 

    Valdres Natur og Kulturpark

    Preserve

    You are now entering the traditional district of Valdres, which is situated between the Gudbrandsdal and Hallingdal valleys. The river Begna runs through the municipality. 

    The traditional Valdres region is located approximately halfway between Oslo and Bergen. The valley has the Jotunheimen mountains to the west and the north. Historically, Valdres has been an agricultural economy, but tourism is becoming more important – especially for skiing. 

    Sør-Aurdal Municipality

    The name comes from the valley in which it is located. The coat-of-arms represents a medieval reliquary that is based on the one found at Hedal Stave Church. It has two dragons heads in the design since Sør-Aurdal is one of only two municipalities in Norway that have two stave churches that are still in use. The colour blue represents the two river systems that have historically been important for the logging industry and sawmills. 

    Olav Haraldsson, later St. Olav, travelled through Valdres in 1023 and visited Reinli. At the time, there was a pagan temple at the same location where the stave church stands. 

    One of the highlights of the municipality is Hedalen Stave Church was built in 1160 but rebuilt in 1699. An old legend says that the valley was abandoned during the Black Death and the church was discovered by a bear hunter. A hide is hanging in the church, although there is only a small part of it left as visitors have cut away pieces over the years. We will pass the turnoff for it a little later. 

    Bagn
    Village

    Bagn is the administrative centre of Sør-Aurdal. This area saw extensive fighting during World War II as advancing German forces were stopped in Bagn. The battles in the valley were extensive. 

    In Bagn you can find the Bagn Bygdesamling, a small museum that includes farmhouses, a sawmill, a flour mill, and other buildings. The museum is on a preserved farm. Next to Bagn Church is an intact shop from 1881, which may have been the largest business in Valdres. The shop is open during the summer holidays and before Christmas. 

    Bagn Church is the main church in the valley and seats 350 people. The earliest church in the area was mentioned in 1327, but the church was not new that year. The first church was likely a wooden stave church from the 13th century. The old church was closed in 1683 and for some time the locals had to use Reinli Stave Church. The church that we see today is the second church and dates to 1736. 

    Nord-Aurdal Municipality

    The coat-of-arms for Nord-Aurdal depicts three blue flowers called ‘Snow Gentian’. The flowers are locally known as ‘the blue eyes of Christ’ and grow all over Norway but grow abundantly in this area. They represent the three main settlements of the municipality: Aurdal, Fagernes, and Leira. This is a fairly mountainous municipality. The highest point is 1,325m (4,347ft) high and about 50% of the land is above 900m (3000ft).

    Aurdal
    Village

    Aurdal is a small village with a population of around 647. The village is known for its winter sports activities and is in Valdres’ Alpine Centre. There are several places to stay and eat. There used to be a railway here – the Valdresbanen – but it stopped in 1888. 

    Just after Aurdal is the Noraker Gård. This farm is currently being run by the 12th century. Rakfisk is a highly desirable food from this farm, and in 2022 they won the expert jury award at the Norwegian Rakfisk Festival. In 2006, Rakfisk from Valdres was approved as a protected geographical indication. This means that only fish hatched, reared, and processed in Valdres can be sold under the Rakfisk fra Valdres brand. 

    They have a farm shop that also sells trout, mustard, beer, moose, goat, and art. 

    Rakfisk is a dish made from trout or char where it is salted and autolyzed for two or three months. It is then eaten without cooking and has a strong smell and pungen salty flavour. After the fish is gutted and rinsed, it is placed in a bucket and salt. It is then placed under pressure with a lid that fits down into the bucket and a weight on top. A brine is formed as the salt draws moisture from the fish. The rakfisk bucket is stored at under 5 degreesC for one to three months. The finished product doesn’t need cooking. 

    Fagernes

    Fagernes is a major hub along the E16.

    The word ‘Fagernes’ is a combination of ‘fager’ (beautiful) and ‘nes’ (headland). The town was established in 1857, when the first trading operations started. The first hotel started operations in 1875, and from 1906 there was a train line (it has since closed). 

    If you are travelling in November, you may be in town for the Norwegian Rakfisk Festival, which takes place in the first week of the month. 

    In Fagernes is the Valdres Folkmuseum, a well-known museum that shows the culture of the Valdres region. It is both an indoor and outdoor museum. 

    Fagernes Travel Guide

    Ulnes Church

    Historic Church

    Ulnes Church is a beautiful church that you’ll pass shortly after leaving Fagernes. The earliest records of the church go back to 1307, but it was not new that year. Estimates say that the church was built around the year 1265 as its architecture reflects the transition between Romanesque and Gothic architecture. 

    In 1675, there were plans to replace it with a new wooden church as it was decaying, but thankfully that didn’t happen. Around 1720, the church was put out of use. It was described in 1733 by a bishop as “a pile of stones” with only the choir being suitable to keep. The church was restored in 1737, with the nave being demolished and rebuilt. The interior was also refurbished. 

    Vestre Slidre Municipality

    The next municipality is Vestre Slidre. The municipality is partly named after the historic Slidre Church, which you’ll see soon. The coat-of-arms are based on a heraldic decoration found in the Slidredomen church that dates to 1170. The design was originally part of a seal that belonged to a medieval nobleman in the area. The meaning of the design is unknown. 

    Vestre Slidre is mentioned in the Old Norse sagas. Harald Fairhair, who became the first King of Norway (872-930), did some conquests over petty kingdoms. One of the encounters that led to the overall conquest was with Skallagrim Kveldulvssøn in Vestre Slidre. Also, in 1023, King Olav Haraldsson came to the area to Christianise the people. The locals were caught unaware, and Olav took all their boats. They would only get them back if they accepted Christianity, which they did. 

    Lastly, in 2000 Sami gamme huts (a simple form of a hut) were found in the municipality. This is the southernmost discovery of Sami settlements.

    Slidre

    Village

    Slidre is the next village on the E16. It has a population of around 337. 

    In Slidre you can see the Vestre Slidre Church (Slidredomen), a historic stone church from around 1170. The church is built in the Romanesque style of architecture and the stone walls are approximately 160cm (63 inches) thick. 

    The church is unique in that it doesn’t have a west portal. Instead, the main entrance is from the south.

    The furniture is from the 18th century, while there are frescoes from the 15th century. The choir has a painted wooden vault from the 14th century, which depicts Jesus Christ in the mandorla centrally in the middle. On the north wall, a medieval coat-of-arms has been uncovered and is used as Vestre Slidre’s coat-of-arms. 

    The area here is very old. Above the village of Slidre is an ancient burial ground called the ‘Gardberg Site’. Here you can see the Einangsteinen runestone. It is believed to be from the 4th century and is considered the oldest runestone in the Nordics that is standing in its original place. The name Einang comes from a nearby farm. 

    Lomen Stave Church

    Lomen Stave Church is from around the year 1192. The church is a pillar stave church, meaning the main room has four supporting stave beams. The style and decoration of the church is part of the “Valdres-Sogn” stave churches. This groups many of the churches from Valdres Valley and around the Sognefjord that have the same features. Considering the old King’s Road used to run through the valley to Sogn, they likely shared design tips.

    Like all stave churches, Lomen Stave Chuch has fallen victim to modernisation and renovation. The choir is from a major renovation in the 1750s. During this time, the walls were also expanded to make the main room larger.

    During the last refurbishment, archaeological excavations uncovered 71 artefacts, including jewellery and coins. The oldest coin found here is from King Sverre’s time, 1177-1202.

    Today the church, neighbouring bell tower and cemetery are under protection. Many original features of the church remain, despite major renovations. The most illustrative are the portals, which have decorations of dragons, vines, and animal heads. Some of the portals have moved around the church, but they do date back to medieval times. These kinds of decorations are common on Valdres-Sogn stave churches. The roof and wall timbers are also original.

    Lomen Stave Church

    Vang Municipality

    Vang is a small municipality in the traditional Valdres region. The name comes from an old farm, though vang comes from the Old Norse word vangr meaning ‘field’ or ‘meadow’. The coat-of-arms are rather special – they are based on historic descriptions and depictions of the personal arms of a local medieval nobleman called Sigvat of Leirhol. He was named as one of the members of the delegation that followed King Håkon V Magnusson to Copenhagen in 1309. He then became the governor of Valdres. His coat-of-arms can also be seen on Vang Church. 

    The municipality was originally populated by migrants from Western Norway. 

    The ancient Vang Church was the site of a legal court held by King Håkon VI in 1368. 

    Høre Stave Church

    Høre Stave Church is one of the stave churches with an insight into the fascinating past of Norway. Especially around and shortly after the time of the Civil War in the 12th and early 13th century. We know that the Christianisation of Valdres wasn’t easy. St. Olav, then King Olav, came from the west through the valley. He held farmers hostage and burnt down farms until they agreed to convert. According to the Sagas, Olav had churches built and clergymen appointed. None of these churches remains, but many of the stave churches are on the same spot, including Høre Stave Church.

    In medieval times, Valdres had many churches. There were at least 21 of them; 18 of which were stave churches. To compare, the neighbouring valley Hallingdal had 8 stave churches. Sadly very few remain today. 

    Judging from the rune inscriptions found inside the church and dating the timber, Høre Stave Church is from around 1179. It was originally a pillar church, with four corner staves. Under the church are graves, some of them children. It wasn’t allowed but common to bury children under stave churches. As they had not been baptised yet, the parents worried the children would not be accepted into heaven. Some foetuses were also found under the church. There is evidence of ceremonial burials under the church, likely from pre-Christian times.

    The original stave church somewhat exists today; all that remains is its skeleton. The skeleton is hidden by the cladding. The ship is still the original size, giving a sign of the original size of the church room.

    Høre Stave Church

    Vang i Valdres

    The word ‘vang’ comes from an old farm that stood here; this farm is also where the first church stood. Vang, like the rest of the Valdres Valley, was populated by migrants from Western Norway. People have lived in this valley (Vangr means meadow or field) for thousands of years. This is likely due to its proximity between east and west Norway. Vang is by a lake just before the mountain pass to Western Norway and thus made for a good rest stop.

    Vang became the site of a legal court (ting in Norwegian), and the ancient stave church was next to the site. The site was famously used by King Haakon VI in 1368 when he was settling a boundary dispute.

    Vang also became part of the ancient royal road between Bergen and Oslo. In the 16th century, it was the postal road, and from the 18th century, it was Kongevegen. Kongevegen was the first road for horse and cart between East and West, and I’ve covered it on my page for the E16. Today, the highway follows the same path as Kongevegen. Still, the town and nearby area became a place where travellers would seek refuge at some point on their journey. 

    The Vang Stone is clearly marked and is by the E16. Parking is available across the street. 

    The Vang Stone

    Øye Stave Church

    Øye Stave Church is one of the smallest and oldest stave churches in Norway. It is likely from some time during the second half of the 12th century. The church is first mentioned in written documents in 1347. It stood by the old traffic road over Filefjell, which was the first road between Bergen and Oslo.

    Øye Stave Church

    Kongevegen

    Historic Road

    As you may have noticed by now, there are a number of churches and important historic sites along the E16. This is because the E16 follows one of the ancient crossings between east and west Norway. It is called ‘Kongevegen’ (The Kings Road). The road is ancient and is believed to have been the first way between east and west. The first postal road was laid here in 1647, and the road received official status in 1791. 

    Ever since people have lived in Norway has this been the most useful route between east and east. A number of tracks show traffic throughout the Stone Age and Bronze Age. The road was also important in the Christianisation of Norway, as is evident in the large number of churches along the road. Many ancient farms here also became inns for travellers, and some survive today. In the Middle Ages, the road was known as the most difficult and dangerous in the country. As many Danish public servants were travelling between Bergen and Christiania (Oslo), it was decided to modernize the road in the 17th century. The road was built as straight as possible and became known as the Royal Postal Road. Most of the trip was done on foot. 

    In the 18th century, travelling with horse and carriage became more common, so it was decided to modernise the road again. In 1791, the official road was completed and Kongevegen became the first carriage road between east and west Norway. The road was built by hand. Today the E16 skips many of the most difficult parts with tunnels, but parts of the old road remain and are now a popular hiking trail. In 2017, Kongevegen was awarded the EU’s most important cultural heritage award, Europa Nostra. 

    It is possible to spend the night in one of the many lodges over the mountains and do short or long hikes. 

    Tyinkrysset

    Village

    Tyinkrysset is a village located in the Filefjell mountains, which is where the historic crossing between east and west Norway was. The village sits at an elevation of around 900 metres (3,000 feet). This area is popular with hikers. You’ll find some hotels up in the area. 

    Filefjellet Mountains

    Mountains

    You are now crossing the Filefjellet mountain range across to Western Norway. It has been an important crossing path between east and west Norway since ancient times. The highest peaks are 1013m above sea level. 

    The E16 follows a lot of the same path as the old road. 

    Lærdal Municipality

    Lærdal is the first municipality in Vestland county. Lærdal has a dry climate, with 420mm – 600mm of rainfall annually in the inhabited areas. Through the valley runs the Lærdalselvi, or the Laerdal River, known as the ‘Queen of the Salmon Rivers’. It is one of the country’s most famous large salmon rivers. The valleys have opportunities for hunting deer, reindeer, and elk. The valley was inhabited and used by humans as far back as 6,000 years ago. In places, the vally has been used since the Early Stone Age. In the mountains are the first traces of people in the mountain areas of Norway.

    Lærdal has always been the main road between east and west Norway. The area where the village Lærdalsøyri is developed as a marketplace in the Middle Ages. Coastal farmers brought herring and fish and exchanged goods with mountain farmers from Valdres. At least five generations of road structure remain in the Lærdal valley, which proves the valleys important function as a hub. Lærdal has a long tradition with agriculture. The lower part of the valley has one of the country’s best climatic conditions for growing vegetables. Early production of potatoes and vegetables is important. 

    Borlaug

    Village

    The next village is Borlaug. This is where the E16 joins with Highway 52, which runs over the Hemsedal mountains (it’s an alternative way between Oslo and Bergen). You’ll pass some old farmhouses on the right as you drive through the village. 

    Borgund

    Village

    Borgund is a mountain village. It has been an important spot on the journey between east and west Norway for hundreds of years. There are several farms in the village and agriculture is the main industry here. 

    Borgund Stave Church

    Borgund Stave Church is the most famous of Norway’s 28 remaining stave churches. The exact age of Borgund Stave Church is unknown. It is possibly as old as 1150 when looking at the timber. However, the church is generally regarded as being from around the year 1200. It is dedicated to the apostle Andrew.

    The church is fascinating; a visit to it should not be missed. The church is open in the summer for tourists for a small fee. Check their website for more information. 

    Borgund Stave Church

    Lærdal

    You will bypass the village of Lærdal on the E16, but it’s a worthwhile detour to drive into the village. Lærdal is a historic trading place on the old postal route between Oslo and Bergen. It was where the travellers would leave their horses behind and take boats the rest of the way to Bergen. Lærdal is also a fantastic place for trying the foods from the Sognefjord region, including potatoes, berries, and cider. 

    You can read about Lærdal on our dedicated travel guide page. 

    Lærdal Travel Guide

    Aurlandsfjellet Tourist Road

    In the summer months, it’s possible to take the Aurlandsfjellet Tourist Road across to Aurland instead of going through the tunnel. 

    Aurlandsfjellet Tourist Road

    Lærdal Tunnel

    Tunnel

    Welcome to the world’s longest road tunnel! The Lærdal Tunnel is 24.5km (15.2 miles) long. The tunnel was constructed between 1995 and 2000 and cost $113 million USD. The tunnel does not have emergency exits; there are emergency phones every 250 metres as well as 15 turning areas for buses and semi-trailers. There are rooms in the tunnel with food and supplies in case anyone gets stuck in there. The tunnel has high air quality through ventilation and purification. 

    It incorporates features to help manage the mental strain on drivers. Every 6km there is a cave to separate sections of the road. The lighting varies throughout the tunnel and caves to break the routine.

    Aurland Municipality

    Aurland municipality is perhaps one of the most visited municipalities in Norway. After all, it is home to the famous Flåm village as well as the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Nærøyfjord. The main industry in Aurland is agriculture, with goats’ cheese being an important product from here. Tourism is also a major industry. 

    Aurland

    It is worth driving into the village of Aurland. In many ways, it is more charming than Flåm. Aurland is home to Vangen Church, a historic stone church from 1202. The fact that it is built in stone and not wood signifies that the area must’ve been of importance around the time it was built. Aurland is also home to the Aurland Shoe Factory, where the pennyloafer was invented.

    Aurland Travel Guide

    Flåm

    Located at the end of the Aurlandfjord, a branch of the Sognefjord, Flåm is a gorgeous little village. Many people come to Flåm to do the Flåm Railway, regarded as the most beautiful train journey in the world. This train journey goes from Flåm through the valley and up the mountains to Myrdal, located close to the Hardangervidda National park. Myrdal is also where you board the train to Bergen or Oslo. Besides the train ride, there’s a gorgeous ferry journey from Flåm to Gudvangen. It takes you on the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Nærøyfjord – something you shouldn’t miss.

    Flåm has a population of 350, though on a summer day there will be several thousand people in the village. Seriously. The Flåm Railway has become incredibly popular – it’s sold out months in advance. Additionally, Flåm is becoming a major cruise port.

    Flåm Travel Guide

    Gudvangen

    Village

    Gudvangen is a small village with a population of around 120. It is a popular tourist destination due to its proximity at the end of the Nærøyfjord. The popular Gudvangen – Flåm cruise stops here, and many people also come to visit the Viking Village in Gudvangen. The Viking Village is a recreated village as Gudvangen is believed to have been an important trading place for the Vikings. 

    It is worth driving into Gudvangen (approx 5 mins off the E16) and stopping in front of the Nærøyfjord. The Nærøyfjord is the narrowest branch of the Sognefjord, only 250 metres at its narrowest and 12 metres at its shallowest. The fjord is 20km long. It is UNESCO World Heritage-listed as it is one of the best representations of what a fjord looks like.

    Stalheim Hotel & Stalheimskleiva

    Historic Hotel

    The site where the hotel is has been an important place for hundreds of years. When the Royal Postal Road between Oslo and Bergen was established in the 17th century, this hotel was where the postal workers would stop to rest. 

    The hotel as it is known today opened in 1885 with 10 rooms. The hotel burned down in 1900, 1902 and 1959. The current hotel building you see today is from after the 1959 fire. Today the hotel is a high-end historic hotel where many famous people have stayed. It also has arguably one of the best views of any hotel in Norway, but good luck trying to see it. They don’t allow visitors to come in and take pictures without paying or having coffee. 

    Stalheimskleiva is a 1.5km (1 mile) stretch of road that leads from Stalheim Hotel down to sea level towards the Nærøyfjord. It was one of the country’s first roads built according to the new road engineering requirements that came around 1850, the so-called chaussee, with a maximum gradient of 1:20. Around 1,000 men built the road over 7 years. The road was a motorway for cars going in both directions, which was of course dangerous. It was eventually replaced with the two tunnels you’ll be driving through. The road then became a one-way tourist road, however in 2020 part of the road was in danger of collapsing due to landslide. In 2021, the road closed for all motor vehicles for the foreseeable future. This is due to the poor condition of the road and the extensive damage done by traffic. The road is on the conservation plan, so it’s being repaired and may become a hiking trail instead. 

    Across from the Stalheim Hotel is an open-air museum with farmhouses collected from the area. There are also a number of hiking trails starting from around the hotel, so it could be a good option for spending the night. 

    Voss Municipality

    Voss municipality is an inland municipality with about 90% of the area mountains over 300m (1000ft) above sea level. Because of that, the municipality is a popular place for people from Bergen to go skiing. Voss is home to the largest ski resorts in Western Norway. The area has been settled for at least 3,000 years, with people coming here for the rich valleys, waters, and animal life. Voss was also largely an isolated municipality, meaning it has kept its own unique culture and traditions. 

    Oppheim Lake

    Lake

    After leaving Gudvangen, you will drive up the Nærøy Valley. This is part of the UNESCO World Heritage area. The stone they are mining here is anorthosite, a rare stone found in large amounts in this valley. The stone is typically used on the roads because it is reflective. 

    The drive through the valley is short; you will then take two tunnels to get up the mountain. However, before you get into the tunnels, you will see a red hotel and a hairpin-turn road on the hillside. 

    As you drive along the lake, you’ll drive through the village of Oppheim and past the Oppheim Church. 

    Vinje

    Village

    Vinje is a small village located at the junction of the E16 and the Rv13, which runs over the Vikafjellet mountains to Vik by the Sognefjord. This is a long but beautiful detour; the road does close in winter, though. In Vik you’ll find the Hopperstad Stave Church (one of Norway’s 28 remaining stave churches) as well as some other historic buildings. 

    Tvindefossen

    Waterfall

    It is worth stopping and taking some photos of Tvindefossen Waterfall. It will be clearly marked with signs as you approach it. The waterfall is 152m high and has two streams (tvinde=twin). In the late 1990s, the waterfall acquired a reputation for having special powers of reviving sexual potency, so it became common to see visitors from the U.S., Japan and Russia visiting and filling containers with water. 

    Voss

    If you are following the E16, you will take a bypass and not see Voss at all. It is possible to drive into Voss, park by the lake, and see some of the town. 

    Voss has a population of around 14,000 people. The town is known for its cultural traditions in folk music, art, handicrafts, and traditional foods. Voss sits on the shore of the lake Vangsvatnet.

    During World War II, the town was bombed by the Luftwaffe and almost all the buildings were destroyed. 

    In Voss it’s worth visiting Voss Church. According to legend, the people of Voss was forced to convert to Christianity by King Olav (later Saint Olav). A stone cross can be seen by the lake which is believed to have been erected by St. Olav himself. The church was built in 1277 and is one of the only buildings to survive World War II. 

    In Voss you can do the Voss gondola to the top of the mountain, where the open-air museum is. 

    Voss Travel Guide

    Evanger

    Village

    Evanger has a well-preserved village centre that is believed to be one of the better-preserved villages in the area. Most of the wooden houses are from the late 19th/early 20th centuries. Evanger is known for its production of cured meat because the village is home to several companies that specialise in the production of traditional meats such as pinnekjøtt (dried, salted rib of lamb), cured lamb, and sausages. 

    Bolstadøyri

    Village

    Bolstadøyri is located at the end of the fjord. When the old postal road came through here, this is the point where the workers would leave their horses and take a boat to Bergen. This has always been an important meeting place for the courts as well as a trading post. 

    Vaksdal Municipality

    Vaksdal is a small industrial municipality in Western Norway. The coat-of-arms show three black shuttles for weaving. The shuttles were chosen to represent the textile industry of the municipality. The municipality is located alongside the fjord and is also very mountainous. 

    Dale

    Village

    Dale is a small industrial village with a population of around 1,100. The village was built around the Dale power planet and factory that were founded and constructed in the 1870s. The machines were brought over by boat from England – carding machines, spinning machines and 200 looms, as well as finishing and dyeing machines. When the factory was built, there was only a homestead here. However, by the end of the 19th century the factory had 500 employees and the village had 1,000 inhabitants. At its peak in the 1950s and 1960s, Dale had a population of 4,000. 

    Dale is where the Dale of Norway company is based. This is arguably Norway’s most famous textiles company. They make the sweaters for the Norwegian Olympics Team and are known for their classic patterns. There is an outlet store in Dale, if you wish to visit that. 

    Osterøy

    Island

    Soon you will reach the wider part of the Osterfjord, which you will follow for the journey into Bergen. Across the fjord is an island called Osterøy. Osterøy is the largest inland island in Norway at around 330km2. Around 8,000 people live on the island and it is largely an agricultural island. You’ll see the bridge to the island soon.

    Vaksdal

    Village

    Vaksdal is a small village located on the fjord. Like Dale, it is an industrial town. In the late 19th century, the Vaksdal Mølle (Mill) opened here, utilising the hydropower in the region. This is where flour would be made. At the time it was built, it was the largest mill in Northern Europe. 

    Bergen Municipality

    Welcome to Bergen! We are now on the outskirts of Bergen municipality. 

    Trengereid

    Village

    Trengereid is the next village you will pass on your way into Bergen. Like the other villages along the fjord, Trengereid was established in the late 19th century around a factory. The factory (Trengereid Fabrikker) specialised in ribbon and lace production. 

    In Trengereid you will see the round-a-bout that leads off to the Hardangerfjord and Hardanger Tourist Road. However, you have been driving from Oslo, so probably save that for a separate road-trip. 

    Arna

    Village

    Arna is one of Bergen’s eight districts and was incorporated into the city in 1972. Around 14,000 people live in Arna and are connected to the city centre of Bergen by the railway. The train between Bergen and Arna takes only 10 minutes as it cuts through the mountain Ulriken; the road follows the coastline and takes 30 minutes to get to the same place. 

    Bergen

    Welcome to Bergen! Bergen is Norway’s second-largest city and is regarded as the Capital of the Fjords. 

    Bergen Travel Guide

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!