Lofoten Islands

  • Things to do in Svolvær: Activities & Excursions You Must Book!

    Things to do in Svolvær: Activities & Excursions to Book

    Trollfjord cruise

    Svolvær is the capital in the Lofoten Islands and is the place you are most likely to stay at or at least pass through. It has the main airport for Lofoten (with daily flights to Bodø), important bus connections, and fast ferries to the mainland. The coastal ferry also stops in Svolvær every day. 

    Despite the fact that Svolvær is described as a big city, it is still a small town with a great feel about it. It is close to some of the Lofoten Island’s most popular hikes, it has some of the nicest restaurants and hotels in the Lofoten Islands, and of course it is a great place to base yourself for tours and excursions.

    So, what exactly can you do there? Well, a lot! It can seem overwhelming trying to figure out which excursions to do and how to distinguish between the different companies, so I’ve put together a useful list summarising what you can do in Svolvær. It’s also based off my experiences and what I’ve done when I visit Svolvær. 

    Please note that the links to the tours are affiliate links, meaning that if you book through the link I provide, I get a small commission. However, I only recommend tours that I would personally do!

    Table of Contents

    Trollfjord Cruise / Sea Eagle Safari

    The Trollfjord Cruise and the Sea Eagle Safari is more or less one and the same. Trollfjord is one of the most beautiful fjords in Norway and is only accessible by guided boat tour. The fjord is enclosed by steep mountains and feels almost like entering a cave. Here the mountains reach peaks of around 1000 metres above sea level.

    On each cruise, there is an almost-guarantee that you will see sea eagles along the way. The sea eagles can be seen on the rocks and cliffs along the Raftsundet, and the tours will try and bring the sea eagles close to you by feeding them. 

    There are a few different ways to visit Trollfjord:

    Silent Electric Ship

    The Brim Explorer is a new, modern and comfortable ship with indoor and outdoor seating areas. When the ship enters the Trollfjord, it switches to electricity so the experience is totally silent. The decks allow for a 360-degree view. The guides on board talk along the way, pointing out sea eagles and discussing the marine life. They even put cameras underwater so you can see what’s going on beneath the surface. On board is a café and bar with meals, snacks and drinks.         

    RIB/Zodiac Boat Tour

    The RIB boat is my favourite way to see Trollfjord! It is super fast and is a thrilling adventure. You are given proper suits to make sure you stay warm, but since it is an open air experience be prepared to get a little wet on rainy days.

    The guides/drivers on board do stop to explain things along the way, and are fantastic at what they do.

    If you want to take photos, it’s best to go on the electric ship.

    I have used the company XXLofoten before and only have good things to say about them, so this is the company I recommend booking through. 

    Sailing Boat/Catamaran

    On this trip, you sail from Svolvær to Trollfjord on a modern and comfortable catamaran. The tour guide tells you what you see along the trip. Included in the tour is homemade fish soup, coffee and tea. You can even do fishing along the way if you want.

    Fishing Tour

    Lofoten is the land of cod and fishing traditions going back thousands of years, so there’s nothing better to do than experience fishing on your own trip! The famous cod (known as ‘skrei’ – the North-East Atlantic Sea Cod) travels from the Barents Sea to the Norwegian coast to breed in January. About 40% of all cod in the Norwegian sea breed in Lofoten, making it a haven for cod fishing. The main season for cod is from January to April, but it’s possible to fish all year. You can also catch pollock, catfish, cusk, halibut, plaice, haddock, herring, mackerel, and ling. If you want to try fishing, it’s possible to join a trip.

    Tours take you on a traditional fishing boat, known as a ‘Sjark’. You are provided with a fishing kit, safety equipment, a guide, and everything you need!

    Northern Lights Tours

    It’s possible to observe the northern lights from the end of August until the beginning of April. I’ll be honest, Lofoten isn’t the best place to see the northern lights – it’s coastal and prone to lots of bad storms. However, it is possible to book a trip to try and see the northern lights.

    There are several tours that go out searching for the northern lights, and it’s always wise to book a tour rather than navigate the dark, icy roads by yourself. Which tour you want to do comes down to your interests. here are some tours I recommend.

    Northern Lights by Van

    Vans ensure small group sizes and the ability to park in places minibuses and full-size buses can’t.

    Northern Lights with a Photographer

    It is a lot harder to photograph the northern lights than people expect, do it is worth booking a tour with a photographer. Not only will you learn how to take wonderful photos of the lights, but the photographer will also capture some high-quality images of the show.

    The main company offering this tour is Lofoten Lights, which has very good reviews. 

    Midnight Sun Tours

    If you are staying in Svolvær for the midnight sun, prepare to be a little disappointed. While the sun never sets in Svolvær in summer, the mountains block the sun from the town in the evenings, making it feel like the sun has set. If you want to see the midnight sun, you need to head to the west coast of the islands. If you are in Svolvær without a vehicle, or want to trust a local to take you to the best spot, it’s worthwhile booking a tour. 

    Midnight Sun with a Photographer

    This tour is offered by Lofoten Lights, the same company doing Northern Lights tours. This is a great tour if you want to follow a local photographer to the best spots to capture the midnight sun. 

    Midnight Sun Cruise from Svolvær

    Lofoten is most beautiful from the water, so why not join a sailing tour to head over to the west coast of Lofoten and observe the midnight sun?

    Explore the Lofoten Islands

    Svolvær is lovely, but it’s not the most beautiful part of the Lofoten Islands. If you are only visiting Svolvær and don’t have access to a vehicle, consider booking a guided tour to somewhere else in Lofoten. A number of tours to different locations are offered, so book depending on your interests. 

    Lofoten Five Hour Tour

    On this bus tour, you’ll visit the island of Gimsoy and the towns of Kabelvåg and Henningsvær. Henningsvær is one of the major highlights of Lofoten, so if you don’t have much time to explore the islands, this is a great tour!

    Lofoten Seven Hour Photography Tour

    On this photography-focused tour, you’ll head to southern Lofoten, which many regard as the most beautiful part of the Lofoten Islands. You will visit the famous village Reine (the one used in all the promotional material for Lofoten) as well as Flakstad and Ramberg. 

    If you have the time, I highly recommend this tour. Especially if you aren’t getting down to southern Lofoten independently. 

    Things to do in Svolvær!

    As you can see, there are many things to do in Svolvær. I hope this guide has been useful! If you have any questions, please ask away in the comments section of this article.

    You can find more information about Svolvær on our dedicated travel guide page. 

  • Drive it Yourself: Harstad to Svolvær (via the Fv83)

    Drive it Yourself: Harstad to Svolvær (via the Fv83)

    The drive between Harstad and Svolvær is a scenic drive through the traditional regions of Vesterålen and Lofoten.

    There are actually two ways to get between the two towns. The first way is to follow the E10, the major highway that runs through Lofoten. We covered that drive in 2021 (click here to read it). This way, via the Fv83, is the second way. It does take a little longer, but it is worth it. The Fv83 is regarded as a scenic road for the Vesterålen region, which is just as beautiful as Lofoten but with less tourists. It does include one ferry, but the ferry runs regularly. 

    Here’s our guide to the drive from Harstad to Svolvær via the Fv83. 

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    Coming soon.

    Online Guide

    Downloadable Guide

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    Harstad to Svolvær

    Harstad Travel Guide

    Read more about Harstad, one of the largest towns in Northern Norway, below. 

    Kvæfjord Municipality

    Kvæfjord municipality is a scenic municipality located on the island of Hinnøya, which is the largest island in Norway. Around 2,800 people live in the municipality. Kvæfjord is known for its agricultural heritage and its production of strawberries and potatoes. The farms here benefit from south-facing slopes and bright nights under the midnight sun. The fjord is known for its rich supply of herring.

    Archaeological evidence shows there has been settlement here since at least the Iron Age, and there are farms that have evidence of habitation back to 300BC. Some place names in the area come from the Viking Age. There has also always been a small Sami settlement in the area.

    Kvæfjord is home to Norway’s national cake, the Kvæfjord cake. The cake is made with meringue, vanilla cream and almonds.

    Kvæøya

    Island

    You’ll pass a right turn that takes you towards the island. Kvæøya is a small island in the Kvæfjord. It is connected to the mainland via a small bridge, the Kvæøy Bridge, which was completed in 2010. The island is highly regarded for its farming, with large farms on the southern and western sides. 

    Hemmestad

    Village

    Hemmestad is a small village with an interesting history. It used to be the ‘capital’ of Kvæfjord and was a major trading area. In the village today you’ll find the old Hemmstad Brygge (pier), a heritage-listed building that was the trading centre for Kvæfjord throughout the 19th century. Twice a year boats came here with coffee, spices, candy, textiles and spirits. From Hemmestad, rockfish, cod, fowl and mullet was exported.

    Today Hemmestad Brygge is a museum complex that explains the history of trade here.

    Refnes - Flesnes

    Ferry

    You will now take the ferry between Refnes and Flesnes, two small villages on either side of the Gullesfjorden. 

    Bogen

    Settlement

    Bogen is a small settlement that relies on agriculture and fish farming. There is an annual festival here called Flesnes i fest, where several hundred people come to compete in football and car races.

    Langvassbukta

    Village

    Langvassbukta is a small village by the Gullefjord. This is where the county road ends. From here, it turns into Highway 85 (Rv85). To go towards Lofoten, turn left towards Lødingen. It is also recommended to take a scenic detour to Sortland and back.

    This guide follows the scenic detour. 

    Sortland Municipality

    Sortland municipality is the administrative centre for the region and is named after the town of Sortland, which is the largest town and commercial centre in the traditional region of Vesterålen. It is part of the county of Nordland.

    The municipality is spread across the islands of Langøya and Hinnøya in the Vesterålen archipelago. The mountain Møysalen is part of the Møysalen National Park, located in the southern part of the municipality. The midnight sun occurs from the 23rd of May to the 23rd of July, while the polar night occurs from the 30th of November until the 12th of January.

    Sigerfjord

    Town

    Sigerfjord is a small town with around 800 people living there. The church is from 1933 but has a figure of St. Olav from the 15th century inside. It came from an earlier church on the same spot. The town has a primary school and kindergarten. Most of the industry here is connected to the sea.

    Sortland

    Sortland is the main town and administrative centre for the region. It is also known as the ‘blue city’.

    Sortland is a 15 minute detour from Sigerfjord, but is well worth it if you want to stop for a coffee break or pick up some supplies.

    You can read about Sortland via our travel guide below. 

    This drive now continues back towards Lødingen. You’ll reach a round-a-bout and turn onto the E10 towards Å i Lofoten. 

    Hadsel Municipality

    Hadsel municipality is located on four main islands in Vesterålen – Hinnøya, Langøya, Hadseløya, and Austvågøya.

    Hadsel has been an important hub for the fishing industry, and due to its proximity to Lofoten has always been an important trading place for Lofoten residents. The oldest settlements were likely on the southern side of Hadseløya, but the main harbour has always been Stokmarknes.

    The name “Hadsel” comes from the Old Norse word “Hovdasegl”, meaning “main sail”. The name describes that Hadseløya can look like a merged mainsail on a Nordland boat when you see Hadseløya from Langøya. The Sami name for Hadsel is Ulpesuohkan, referring to the old name for the area (Ulvøya).

    The main airport here is the Stokmarknes Airport, the busiest small aircraft airport in Norway. Stokmarknes is also the birthplace of Hurtigruten, the Norwegian coastal ferry.

    The coat of arms represents four yellow rings, representing the four main islands the municipality is on.

    Vågan Municipality

    Vågan is a major municipality in Lofoten. It includes most of the island Austvågøy as well as Gimsøya. It is the easternmost of Lofoten’s six municipalities. The main town in Vågan is Svolvær, where this drive ends. Fishing is the most important industry here, and Vågan is North Norway’s 8th largest fishing municipality.

    Austnesfjorden

    Photo stop

    The view is excellent over the fjord and you can see Sildpollnes Church in the distance.

    Sildpollnes Church is a small white wooden church from 1891. The church had some drama recently, when the current neighbour refused to let people through his property to get to the church because he said the 1890 agreement stated people could pass on foot, but it didn’t mention automobiles. The church closed in 2015 and the case went to court, with the neighbour loosing and the Lofoten District Court ruling in favour of the church.

    At the photo stop they have a place you can walk up to with a viewing platform. I’ve used a photo of it at the top of this page. This is where you get the view out to the church. 

    Svolvær Airport

    Airport

    Svolvær Airport is a regional airport in Lofoten. While it is one of the main airports for Lofoten, it is likely not the one you will fly to if you are flying to Lofoten – instead, it’s better to fly to Harstad/Narvik and drive from there. Svolvær Airport is served by Widerøe and the routes are subsidized by the government with direct flights to Bodø, Oslo, and small communities in Nordland county. There are plans to make a new primary airport to serve the Lofoten and Vesterålen region, making it more attractive to visit out of the tourist season.

    Svolvær

    We have made it to Svolvær, the end of today’s drive! You can read more about Svolvær on our dedicated travel page. 

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

    Previous Drive

    Kiruna to Harstad via Narvik

    See the previous day’s drive from Kiruna in Sweden to Harstad in Norway via the Norwegian town of Narvik. 

  • Getting to the Lofoten Islands with the Bodø to Moskenes Ferry

    Getting to the Lofoten Islands with the Bodø to Moskenes Ferry

    Back in 2021 Sean and I did a road-trip around Northern Norway, beginning and ending in Trondheim. When it came time to plan the section for the Lofoten Islands, I knew I wanted to take the ferry. I’d heard about the Bodø to Moskenes Ferry and decided to do that ferry.

    It was such a beautiful journey! Originally I was apprehensive to take ferries in Norway because I feel they slow down the road-trip and I struggled figuring out how they work. This road-trip was great for me because we were taking 2-3 ferries a day, so now I feel like I’m an expect on ferries.

    Earlier this year I got to fly into the Lofoten Islands for the first time, and while the flight from Bodø to Svolvær is short (20 minutes!) I still can’t get behind flying there. So, I’ve written this overview of how the ferry works to try and encourage you to do the same!

    In this article...

    Flying is Expensive

    Well, I should begin by saying all options to the Lofoten Islands are expensive, including the ferry. However, flying is the most expensive option. While there are airports at Svolvær and Leknes, they are operated by the regional airline Widerøe and have few departures. The small planes plus few departures drives the price up. Also, if the wind is too strong the planes can’t fly at all.

    This makes Bodø an excellent alternative. Bodø is a major airport with Widerøe, SAS and Norwegian all flying there. Bodø has direct connections to Oslo, Bergen, Trondheim, Tromsø and other cities, so it’s easy to get to. At the airport you’ll find all the major rental companies for cars.

    Why Should I Go to Moskenes?

    If you are road-tripping in Lofoten, it’s likely that you’ll be doing the Lofoten Tourist Road. This is one of the 18 national tourist roads in Norway, and arguably the most scenic.

    The tourist road begins at the southern tip in Å and ends in the north in the Vesterålen region.

    Moskenes is located about a 10 minute drive north of Å, so if you take the ferry to Moskenes, you arrive practically at the beginning of the tourist road. This makes it easy to then take the tourist road north. You can choose to spend the night in Å, or if you drive 10 minutes north of Moskenes you’ll be in one of the most famous villages in Lofoten: Reine.

    Our road-trip guides:

    Compared to flying, you’ll have to drive about two hours south from Svolvær to get to Reine or Å, and then drive back on the same road. It gets a little repetitive, and your time is best spent doing the trip one way.

    Are there other ferries?

    There is one other car ferry that will take you to the Lofoten Islands, and that is the Hurtigruten. The Hurtigruten departs Bodø at 3:10pm and arrives in Stamsund around 7pm. Stamsund is located midway between Moskenes and Svolvaer.

    Hurtigruten can be an expensive alternative, and if you are travelling in the high season (or middle of winter) it’s likely that their limited car spaces will be full.

    What if I'm travelling without a vehicle?

    If you don’t have a vehicle, it is possible to take an express ferry from Bodø to Svolvær. Svolvær is the largest town in the Lofoten Islands so it has the best public transport connections. From here, you’ll be able to take a bus to most other major villages in the islands.

    Moskenes

    Views along the way

    The ferry isn’t especially fast, but the journey is very scenic. We were fortunate to take the ferry on a clear and calm day, so for the first half of the journey were could see the Norwegian mainland. As you leave Bodø, you get an excellent view of the Bodø skyline and the mountains behind it.

    You can start seeing the Lofoten Islands about halfway into the journey. It was so clear for us that we could see where the Lofoten Islands and the mainland meet!

    The approach into Lofoten is spectacular, of course.

    The Onboard Experience

    The ferry is a little dated and basic (the company has recently announced they have signed the contract for new ferries to be built), but it has everything you need for the journey.

    There is a large seating area with chairs and tables as well as a cafeteria serving coffee, sandwiches, hot dogs, and snacks. If you have been on a Norwegian ferry before, it’s very much the same time of food.

    A highlight of the ferry is that you have a lot of open space to walk around. On the smaller express ferries, you often can’t go outside at all. We spent a lot of our time outside taking pictures.

    Moskenes

    Ferry Timetable

    The ferry timetable can be found on their website: http://ruteinfo.thn.no/en/default.aspx?rnr=86

    Booking Tickets

    I strongly recommend booking your ferry ticket in advance. In 2019, the ferry made headlines for selling out and for people being unable to get on board. In summer it is likely the ferry will sell out. It is possible to also buy tickets at the ferry, but you can’t be guaranteed that the ferry hasn’t sold out. Additionally, those who have prepaid board the ferry first, which means you’ll be able to leave first.

    You can book tickets on the Torghatten-Nord website: https://www.torghatten-nord.no/

    On the top left side, you’ll see an option to change the language to English.

    There is an option to search for ticket prices. Put that in and add a car + passenger. You’ll have to select the size of your vehicle plus how many passengers you have. After that, you’ll be able to choose a time.

    The website will ask for a registration plate for the car, but if you are renting a car just write ‘rental car’.

    As you’ll see, the tickets are quite expensive! 950 NOK – 1250 NOK. However, it can cost over 2000 NOK to fly into Svolvær, and when I tried looking for prices on Hurtigruten nothing was available. So, it seems like it is the cheapest option of them all.

    You might be saying “well, I can just drive to the bottom and then drive back up”, but remember fuel in Norway is quite expensive and you would pay about 900 NOK just to drive from the top of Lofoten to the bottom anyway.

    How long does the ferry take?

    The ferry journey takes around three and a half hours. You’ll notice there are different durations corresponding to different departures on the website. Thisis because sometimes the ferry makes some stops along the way, especially to the small islands of Røst and Værøy. Ideally, you’d like to leave early in the day so you have extra time to explore Lofoten.

    Røst & Værøy

    These are two small little isolated islands off the coast of Lofoten. While it is possible to fly to them, it would be such an amazing experience to take the ferry there as well. You can add them to your Lofoten road-trip. I have never been, but am hoping to get there some day.

    Recently the government passed a new law making some vital ferry services free, and this includes the ferry to Røst & Værøy. So now you can travel there for free!

    Tell Me What You Think!

    If you have taken the ferry, or have any questions, please use the comment section below.

  • Drive it Yourself: The Lofoten Islands Part 2: Svolvær to Harstad

    Drive it Yourself: The Lofoten Islands Part 2: Svolvær to Harstad

    The Lofoten Islands is probably one of the most famous places in Norway. Many people making the trip here want to head to Lofoten, and rightly so. Steep mountain peaks rise out of the ocean forming the Lofoten archipelago, one of the most scenic places in Norway. For thousands of years fishermen have lived at the foot of these peaks, building now iconic rorbuer and living off the cod fishing season. This history survives today on Lofoten, and you get to explore it with this road-trip!

    This road-trip is part one of two parts and takes you from Å in the south to Svolvær, which is a little over halfway up the archipelago.

    In this article...

    Download This Guide

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    Online Guide

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    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    Begin: Svolvær

    With a population of 4,720, Svolvær is the largest city in the Lofoten Islands. The settlement is old; Svolvær was first mentioned in 1567. However, Svolvær didn’t gain prominence until the early 20th century when the motorized boats needed a modern harbour.

    The cod fisheries are still an important industry in Svolvær, but tourism is one of the main industries in the city. Svolvær is also a major transportation hub and favourite starting point for tourists. The Hurtigruten also stops here twice a day. It is possible to do sea eagle safaris, whale watching tours, and take a scenic cruise into the nearby Trollfjord. Svolvær also has a downhill skiing centre. In town, you’ll find the Lofoten War Memorial Museum a Magic Ice Bar, and numerous galleries.

    Svolvær Airport

    Airport

    Svolvær Airport is a regional airport in Lofoten. While it is one of the main airports for Lofoten, it is likely not the one you will fly to if you are flying to Lofoten – instead, it’s better to fly to Harstad/Narvik and drive from there. Svolvær Airport is served by Widerøe and the routes are subsidized by the government with direct flights to Bodø, Oslo, and small communities in Nordland county. There are plans to make a new primary airport to serve the Lofoten and Vesterålen region, making it more attractive to visit out of the tourist season.

    Austnesfjorden

    Photo Stop

    The Austnesfjorden Photo Stop is located shortly after Svolvær Airport. The view is excellent over the fjord and you can see Sildpollnes Church in the distance.

    Sildpollnes Church is a small white wooden church from 1891. The church had some drama recently, when the current neighbour refused to let people through his property to get to the church because he said the 1890 agreement stated people could pass on foot, but it didn’t mention automobiles. The church closed in 2015 and the case went to court, with the neighbour loosing and the Lofoten District Court ruling in favour of the church.

    At the photo stop they have a place you can walk up to with a viewing platform. I’ve used a photo of it at the top of this page. This is where you get the view out to the church. 

    Hadsel Municipality

    Hadsel municipality is located on four main islands in Vesterålen – Hinnøya, Langøya, Hadseløya, and Austvågøya.

    Hadsel has been an important hub for the fishing industry, and due to its proximity to Lofoten has always been an important trading place for Lofoten residents. The oldest settlements were likely on the southern side of Hadseløya, but the main harbour has always been Stokmarknes.

    The name “Hadsel” comes from the Old Norse word “Hovdasegl”, meaning “main sail”. The name describes that Hadseløya can look like a merged mainsail on a Nordland boat when you see Hadseløya from Langøya. The Sami name for Hadsel is Ulpesuohkan, referring to the old name for the area (Ulvøya).

    The main airport here is the Stokmarknes Airport, the busiest small aircraft airport in Norway. Stokmarknes is also the birthplace of Hurtigruten, the Norwegian coastal ferry.

    The coat of arms represents four yellow rings, representing the four main islands the municipality is on.

    Vesterålen

    Traditional Region

    Many people confuse Vesterålen for Lofoten, but in fact they are two different areas. 

    Vesterålen is an archipelago between Lofoten and the Norwegian mainland. Many assume that the whole area is just Lofoten, but it’s just the southern half of the islands. The name “Vesterålen” means “western strait”. The landscape here is very mountainous, but the mountains are more rounded than Lofoten. The towns and villages are on the coastal brim between the mountains and the fjords. Fishing, in particular cod fisheries, has always been important to Vesterålen. Today there is also fish farming and some agriculture in the area.

    Hinnøya

    Island

    Hinnøya is the fourth largest island in Norway, and the largest out of Svalbard. The island has several fjords and typically has a mountainous and rugged terrain. There are also valleys and lakes; the treeline is around 400m above sea level.

    Lødingen Municipality

    Lødingen (Sami name: Lodek) is a region on the southwestern part of the island Hinnøya and it is part of the traditional district called Ofoten. While not technically part of Vesterålen, it does participate in councils with the municipalities in Vesterålen.

    The most historically important place in Lødingen is Hjertholmen, a farm and meeting place for residents and visitors. It was owned by the Lødingen Prestegård (rectory) in 1860, and a lighthouse was also built on the site along with the guardhouse and telegraph office. Today the place is used as a gathering place for schools, kindergartens, and visitors. The site is located in Lødingen village.

    Another important site is Hustad gård, which was a large Viking farm 1,000 years ago. The museum tells the story of agricultural history, but there is also a cultural path that follows the Iron Age settlement. The main church, Lødingen Church, is built on the site of the first church in the area, built in the 13th century.

    The tallest mountain in Lødingen is the mountain Møysalen, which is 1263m above sea level making it the second highest mountain peak on an island in Norway.

    Lødingen is known as “Biketown” because it has several annual bike races. The Lødingen Cycling Club is Norway’s largest cycling club in terms of population. Lofoten Insomnia is a race that begins in Å (at the far end of Lofoten) and ends in Lødingen.

    Another important event here is the Seafood Festival with concerts and an excellent selection of seafood. Sailboats from all over the country visit the festival, which takes place in the early summer.

    Troms County

    Troms County existed up until 1 January 2020, when it was merged with Finnmark County to make Troms og Finnmark. However, at time of writing, there are rumours the two will split up. So, I’m going to provide information just about Troms.

    The area has been settled since the Stone Age, and the first of the current ethnic groups to settle in the county were the Sami people. Archaeological evidence shows that a Norse-based culture existed here in the Late Roman Iron Age (200-400AD). The Norse settled along the coast and some of the larger fjords, while the Sami lived in some fjord areas and inland. The southern part of Troms was a petty kingdom in the Viking Age. Trondenes (today’s Harstad) was an important Viking power centre and gathering place.

    Troms takes its name from the island Tromsøya where the city Tromsø is located. The area is in the northern part of the Scandinavian peninsula, and due to its low population and distance from high density European cities, it is one of the least polluted areas in Europe.

    With its latitude of nearly 70 degrees north, the area has cool, short summers but mild winters due to the Gulf Stream. The area experiences the midnight sun between May and July and then the polar night between November and January.

    Outside of the big cities, fishing remains an important industry and there are several important fishing ports throughout the county. Tromsø is the commercial centre for the northern part of the county, while Harstad is the centre for the southern part of the county.

    Kvæfjord Municipality

    Kvæfjord (Sami: Giehtavuotna) is in the traditional region of Central Hålogaland with the main village being Borkenes. The municipality is known for its agriculture and farming, with the quality of the strawberries being particularly famous. The long hours of daylight and low summer temperatures are great for strawberries, making them more tasteful than berries grown in warmer climates. Potatoes are also particularly well known from this region, and the fjords are known for their good herring. Chicken farming for egg production and pig farming are also important.

    Kvæfjord is a historic region, and burial mounds and items found during excavations indicate that there have been settlements here since the Iron Age. One of the oldest farms, Vebostad, has traces from 300BC. Many of the names in the area have Iron Age and Viking Age origin. For example, Vebostad has ‘ve’ in it, which is an old word meaning sanctuary, residence, and pagan sacrificial site. Another farm, Hundstad, may be connected to the famous Viking Tore Hund.

    On the mountain Melåaksla, over 30 shooting shelters have been found on an inaccessible mountain path that the reindeer use as a migration route. As many as 40-50 people were involved in reindeer hunting here.

    Sami people have lived in Kvæfjord for a very long time, but the historical information is scattered. It is known that the Sami lived along the fjords, particularly Austerfjord, as well as in the inland areas. In the Storjord area are traces of Sami settlement from the 17th to 19th centuries.

    Kvæfjord is the home of the Kvæfjord Cake, the Norwegian national cake. The cake is a sponge cake baked with meringue, vanilla cream, and almonds.

    Boazovazzi

    Shop

    On the right is Boazovazzi, a shop where you can buy Sami products. The name is the Sami word for ‘Reindeer herder’ and here you can buy reindeer meat or Sami handicrafts. They also have six rooms for rent. Put the name of the shop in Google and check them out!

    Tjeldsund Municipality

    Tjeldsund (Sami name: Dielddanuorri) is a municipality that’s part of the Ofoten traditional district and the Central Hålogaland district. The main village in the municipality is Evenskjer.  The main education and training centre for Norway’s firemen, Norges Brannskole, is in Fjelldal in Tjeldsund. A naval base is also located here at Ramsund. Besides that, there is some small industry including farming, fishing, banking, and transport.

    Kongsvika

    Village

    Kongsvika is a small village with around 300 people living there. It has cabins for rental and the first petrol station we’ve seen in a while! It’s a good place to stop for a break. 

    Sandtorg

    Village

    Sandtorg is a small village with a population of around 300. It is an old settlement; there has been a trading post here since the 13th century. Sandtorg grew in importance in the 18th century when pilot services were added for foreign and local ships. The trading post lasted until 1945, when the Norwegian Amy’s communication services took over operations after German occupation. The army returned the post to civilian use in the 1990s and today the trading post still stands with a hotel and restaurant.

    In 2014, three coins from the Middle Ages and two pieces of payment silver dating to the Viking times were found here. The two coins were minted under Eirik Magnusson and date to 1285-1290. The third coin is from 1483-1513. In 2020, it was concluded that Sandtorg is the only Viking Age trading place in Northern Norway.

    You can spend the night at Sandtorgholmen Hotel, which is built on the site that has been used as the trading post since the 19th century. The original site was further north. Prices start at around 1200 NOK for a standard room for one night.

    You can visit the hotel website here: https://www.sandtorgholmen.no/?lang=en

    Sørvik

    Village

    Sørvik is a small village located close to Harstad. The village has a historical museum that opens in the summer. They’ve collected log buildings from around Harstad and recreated the museum like an old farm and village. The museum aims to show the Norwegian home and lifestyle in the 19th and early 20th century, though some of the architecture dates back to before the 19th century.

    Harstad

    Harstad is the second most populated city in Troms after Tromsø, with a population of 24,703.

    The oldest part of Harstad is the area Trondenes, which is mentioned in the Heimskringla (King’s Sagas) as a power centre in the Viking Age and a place to meet and discuss important issues. It wasn’t a trading place; Sandtorg is the only known Viking Age trading place in Northern Norway. It is possible to visit Trondenes, and that’s where we are going!

    Harstad city didn’t grow until the late 19th and early 20th centuries, when it emerged as an important trading place with a large harbour for ships. The city experienced rapid expansion with the introduction of steam ships.

    Continue the drive

    Andøya Tourist Road

    Visit Norway’s most remote tourist road at the end of the world!

    Previous Drive

    The Lofoten Islands Part 1: Å to Svolvær

    See the previous day’s drive through the lower part of Lofoten

    This drive is part of the multi-day series “From Trondheim to the Lofoten Islands & Back Again”, where we travel from Trondheim to Lofoten via the Coastal Road, and then take the E6 back south to Trondheim. You can view the entire drive below. 

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Drive it Yourself: The Lofoten Islands Part 1: Å to Svolvær

    Drive it Yourself: The Lofoten Islands Part 1: Å to Svolvær

    The Lofoten Islands is probably one of the most famous places in Norway. Many people making the trip here want to head to Lofoten, and rightly so. Steep mountain peaks rise out of the ocean forming the Lofoten archipelago, one of the most scenic places in Norway. For thousands of years fishermen have lived at the foot of these peaks, building now iconic rorbuer and living off the cod fishing season. This history survives today on Lofoten, and you get to explore it with this road-trip!

    This road-trip is part one of two parts and takes you from Å in the south to Svolvær, which is a little over halfway up the archipelago.

    In this article...

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    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    The drive: Å i Lofoten to Svolvær

    Å i Lofoten

    Not many places in the world have just one letter for a name, so Å is a special place. Å means stream in Norwegian – sometimes the village is known as Å i Lofoten because there are many places known as Å in Norway. Until the 1990s, Å was mainly a small fishing village specialising in stockfish, but since then tourism has taken over as the main economic activity.

    Unique buildings in Å have been preserved, including a cod steamer from 1850, a bakery from 1844, several fisherman’s cabins, an old trading environment and more. Several of the houses are listed.

    Moskenes

    Village

    Moskenes is both the name of the municipality we are currently in and the ferry pier that will take you to Røst or Bodø. The name of the village itself is Sørvågen. Sørvågen has a population of around 700. It has one museum, the Norwegian Telecom Museum, because this is where the first telegraph between Northern Europe and Europe was connected in 1867.

    In the village you’ll see Moskenes Church, the main church for the region. The church is from 1819 and seats 280 people. The earliest mention of a church is from 1589, but the church was not considered new then. The church was replaced in 1819 to make a more modern and stable church.

    Reine

    Photo Stop

    The photo of Reine seen above is perhaps one of the most famous photos of Norway. It generally circulates the internet when discussions of Norway’s beauty arise, and it’s often featured on travel websites. This photo requires very little effort to get! As you turn off the E10 onto the road to Reine (there’s only one), there is a parking lot on the left right before you take the bridge. Step out the car and you have this view. It’s that easy! It’s even on Google Maps as “Reine korttidsparkeringsplass” (Reine Short Term Parking Place)

    Reine

    Reine has been a trading post since 1743, and it is an important centre for the fishing industry. The tradition of the iconic fishermen’s cabins, or rorbu, dates to the 18th century. They were seasonal shelters with one end of the house on pillars onto the fjord, allowing boats to dock next to the building. In Reine, many people still make their living from the sea and have passed on marine skills and traditions for generations. The prime fishing season is from January to April, when the Norwegian Arctic cod are spawning in the waters of Lofoten.

    Today Reine is arguably the most famous village in Lofoten. The stunning scenery of steep mountain peaks contrasted with the fishing village have made the rounds on the internet, and it’s  hard to plan a trip to Norway without seeing the famous Reine shot.

    Sakrisøy

    Island

    Sakrisøy is a small island located at the foot of the mountain Olstind. The island has been dominated by one family, the Gylseth family, for over 130 years. In 1889, Sven Kornelius Gylseth bought the island and built a manor house. He ran the local shop, but he was also a fish buyer. For five generations, the family has been buying cod from the fishermen and trading it with European merchants. One of the historic ships, M/V Pøyken, is on display. It shows how fishermen lived in Lofoten.

    Today the family runs a hotel, shop and restaurant in the original buildings. This is a great alternative for a place to stay if Reine is too crowded for you. The island is tiny, though. Blink and you’ll miss it!

    Hamnøy

    Island

    Hamnøy is a small island and village just next to Sakrisøy. The first buildings were constructed here as residential and business buildings. Today the fishing industry is still important to Hamnøy, but it also has some places to stay and tours. Most of the buildings are owned by the company Eliassen Rorbuer, who have managed to preserve many of the original rorbuer and business buildings. Additionally, they have a restaurant and many activities available such as boat trips, bike rental, diving, and kayaking. If you want to stay away from busy Reine, this is a great alternative.

    You can find their website here: https://rorbuer.no/

    Akkarvikodden

    Photo Stop

    Akkarvikodden is a scenic rest stop with beautiful views out to the south east.

    Flakstad Municipality

    The municipality of Flakstad is located on the northern part of the island Moskenesøya and the entire island Flakstadøya. The name comes from the Flakstad farm, which is where the Flakstad Church was built. The coat of arms shows a fastening device used on boats.  As you can probably guess, the municipality’s economy is dominated by fishing. The fishing fleet consists mostly of small boats.

    Sund

    Village/Detour

    Sund is a small fishing village with around 100 permanent residents. It is believed to be one of the oldest settlements on the Lofoten Islands. Today a large part of the village is preserved with traditional rorbuer and there’s the Sund Fiskerimuseum, which has a traditional workshop.

    In Sund there is a blacksmith who makes cormorants out of metal. These have been made in Sund for over fifty years and are a well-known souvenir to buy from Lofoten. The black cormorant is known in Norwegian folklore for living in the outermost reefs in the ocean. It stands there drying its wings before the next dive.

    The Sund Fiskerimuseum is a private museum with a collection gathered by the locals. The rorbu buildings by the museum are original – these are the original fisherman’s cabins and not ones that were built as tourist accommodation. The décor inside also shows how fishermen lived.

    Ramberg

    Village

    Ramberg is the municipal centre for Flakstad. The town has everything you’d expect for a town this size – tourist office, library, school, petrol station, restaurant, and accommodation. As with every place in Lofoten, the main industry here is fishing. The Lofoten fishing season is the dominant type of fishing, and the fleet is made up of small boats. Some farms here have sheep, while larger properties have cows.

    Ramberg is one of the few places in Lofoten where you can see the midnight sun. It is one of the few settlements on the side of Lofoten facing the sea, so it is possible to see the sun above the horizon. Most settlements are on the eastern part of the islands, facing the Norwegian mainland and therefore blocked from seeing the midnight sun. Ramberg is particularly known for its beach, which is one of the most beautiful in Lofoten.

    Flakstad Beach

    Beach

    Flakstad Beach is one of the most famous beaches in Lofoten. Here you can go surfing or take surfing classes. By the beach is the Lofoten Beach Camp. You can set up your tent here or park your mobile home. Some indoor rooms are available, too. Lofoten Beach Camp offers surf lessons and surf rentals, including the appropriate wetsuit for the arctic surf.

    Lofoten Beach Camp: https://www.lofotenbeachcamp.no/surf

    Flakstad Church

    Church

    Flakstad Church is one of the oldest churches on the Lofoten Islands. It is first mentioned in 1430 but is likely older than that. The church has a limestone baptismal font that dates to 1250-1300. This isn’t the same church today; the older medieval building has now been replaced since a storm around the year 1780 blew it down. Shortly afterwards, a new church was built on the same site using timber from Russia. One of the new chandeliers also came from Russia. Some items from the earlier church have been preserved. Flakstad Church has a characteristic onion dome on top.

    Nappskaret Photo Stop

    Photo stop

    Nappskaret is a scenic photo stop by the rock. You park your car and head up a small staircase to get some incredible views of the island.

    Vestvågøya

    Island

    After Nappskaret photo stop there is an undersea tunnel to the next island.

    Vestvågøya is a large island in the Lofoten Islands both in terms of geography and population (around 10,000 people live here). A large part of the island is relatively flat and marshy, while the outer parts of the island are mountainous. The highest point on the island is the 964m (3163ft) mountain Himmeltindan.

    Vestvågøy Municipality

    Vestvågøy is the most populous municipality in all Lofoten. The administrative centre is Leknes, which is close by to where we are right now.

    Leknes

    Town

    Leknes is one of the main towns in Lofoten. Leknes is in the geographic centre of the Lofoten islands and is the main town on the island Vestvågøya. Leknes is one of the few towns in Lofoten that is not by the sea and therefore not dependent on fishing; it is more of an administrative centre. Leknes has one of the main airports for Lofoten and it also has a cruise port for larger ships. Here is an upper secondary school, sports hall, and police station. The Lofoten Centre, one of Northern Norway’s largest shopping centres, is located here. The Lofothallen is one of the main concert venues on the Lofoten Islands.

    Leknes doesn’t have the same history as many of the other places in Lofoten; it didn’t really see growth until the 1960s. Because of this, there are few characteristic wooden buildings here. There are areas around Leknes that have finds from the Iron Age and Viking Age, though. We are heading towards one of these famous places.

    Unstad Beach

    Beach/Detour

    This small village has only around 15 people living here, but it is one of the most visited places in Lofoten. It is regarded as one of the best surf beaches on the Lofoten Islands. The area has been inhabited since before 1350; it is mentioned as being older than other farm in Borge and Valberg (Borg is well-known from Viking times). The population was at its peak in the 1930s, when around 350 people lived here.

    Today the village is centered around tourism, especially surfing. There are some beaches from the Iron Age and Middle Ages here, too. If you want to go surfing here, check out the company Unstad Arctic Surf.

    They have an excellent page all about the history of surfing in the area, which I encourage you to read: https://www.unstadarcticsurf.com/article/about

    Haukland Beach is the first beach we pass. The village is tiny – only 12 people live here all year round. Still, Haukland Beach is known as one of the most beautiful beaches in Norway.  From Haukland Beach, you can follow the old road (hiking and cycling only) to Uttakleiv Beach for even more stunning views. There are also hiking trails to the tops of the mountain peaks you can see.

    Uttakleiv is one of the most beautiful beaches on Lofoten. There aren’t many places in the world where you can see steep mountains, white sandy beaches, and farms all in one shot! Uttakleiv is a great spot to sit and watch the midnight sign. A lot of people also come here to observe the northern lights.

    The village is a protected area for its natural habitat and historic farms. The old road that used to connect Uttakleiv to the rest of Lofoten is now a hiking and cycling track, and a great thing to do it you have the time.

    Borg Viking Museum

    Museum

    The Borg Viking Museum is a reconstructed longhouse built on the site where one of the biggest Viking Age archaeological discoveries was made. The inside musuem has all the artefacts on display, and in summer you can follow the cultural heritage trail down to a beach. 

    Torvdalshalsen

    Viewpoint

    At this viewpoint you get a very clear overview of the Borg region, and you can almost imagine the Vikings arriving at the harbour and making their way to the longhouse! There are some useful information signs here, too.

    Austvågøya

    Island

    The next island we cross onto is Austvågøya. Austvågøya is the north easternmost of the large islands in Lofoten. Around 9,000 people live on Austvågøya, and many of them live in Svolvaer – the largest city in Lofoten. The island mostly consists of mountains; the largest is Higravstinden, which is 1,146m (3,760ft). One of the most famous mountains, however, is Vågakallen (942m or 3,091ft) – it towers over the picturesque village of Henningsvaer. Vågakallen is famous in troll stories about the Lofoten islands – it is the name of one of the trolls who lived here. The famous Trollfjord is also located on Austvågøya.

    Kabelvåg

    Kabelvåg is the historic capital of Lofoten and finds have been made here that date back to the Viking Age. 

    Vågan Church

    Church

    This is the main church for the municipality of Vågan, and one of the most beautiful churches in Lofoten. The church is built in the cruciform style from 1898. The church seats around 1,200 people, making it the largest wooden building in Northern Norway. Because of that, it often gets the nickname Lofoten Cathedral.

    The earliest church dates to the 12th century when King Øystein Magnusson founded Vågan. It was likely a stave church and probably stood 200m (660ft) west of the present site. The church was renovated in the 1600s, but by the early 1700s it was too deteriorated and had to be rebuilt. A new church was completed in 1712, but by the late 1800s it was becoming too small due to the huge population growth in Kabelvåg. So, in 1898 a new church was built about 200m to the east of the old church.

    Svolvær

    With a population of 4,720, Svolvær is the largest city in the Lofoten Islands. The settlement is old; Svolvær was first mentioned in 1567. However, Svolvær didn’t gain prominence until the early 20th century when the motorized boats needed a modern harbour.

    The cod fisheries are still an important industry in Svolvær, but tourism is one of the main industries in the city. Svolvær is also a major transportation hub and favourite starting point for tourists. The Hurtigruten also stops here twice a day. It is possible to do sea eagle safaris, whale watching tours, and take a scenic cruise into the nearby Trollfjord. Svolvær also has a downhill skiing centre. In town, you’ll find the Lofoten War Memorial Museum a Magic Ice Bar, and numerous galleries.

    Continue the Drive

    The Lofoten Islands Part 2: Svolvær to Harstad

    Continue the drive through the Lofoten archipelago. 

    Previous Drive

    Norway's Coastal Road Part 5: Forøy to Bodø

    Bodø is a great place to visit before visiting the Lofoten Islands. 

    This drive is part of the multi-day series “From Trondheim to the Lofoten Islands & Back Again”, where we travel from Trondheim to Lofoten via the Coastal Road, and then take the E6 back south to Trondheim. You can view the entire drive below. 

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!