Road-trips

  • Drive it Yourself: Oslo to Kristiansand on the E18

    Drive it Yourself: Oslo to Kristiansand on the E18

    Drive from Oslo to Kristiansand on the E18! The E18 is a major highway running through Scandinavia. Starting over in St. Petersburg, the highway travels across Finland and via ferry to Stockholm, where it can then be followed all the way to Kristiansand. There used to be a ferry across to England, which is where the E18 continues over to Ireland, however the ferry is no longer operating. Still, it is an interesting highway to follow.

    This guide follows the stretch from Oslo to Kristiansand. Along the way, you pass a number of interesting historic port communities, and many are worth spending time in. The drive from Oslo to Kristiansand isn’t long – only 4 hours – but allow an extra day or two so you can enjoy all the stops along the way. 

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    Oslo to Kristiansand on the E18

    Oslo

    This drive begins in Oslo, Norway’s capital city. You can find a detailed overview of Oslo via our dedicated travel guide page. 

    Oslo's Neighbourhoods

    Neighbourhoods

    As you drive out of Oslo you will pass the affluent neighbourhoods of Sandvika and Asker. 

    Lier Municipality

    Lier municipality is known for its agriculture, and is regularly nicknamed the strawberry municipality, or the apple and vegetable municipality. It has also been nicknamed ‘the green lung between Oslo and Drammen’. 

    Lierskogen

    Village

    This is the easternmost part of the Lier municipality. Lierskogen is an active agricultural village with the production of milk, meat and sheep farming. 

    Drammen Municipality

    Drammen municipality is the first municipality you’ll pass through. It is named after Drammen, the city and centre of the municipality.

    Drammen is located where the Drammen River flows into the fjord. The river has been important for timber trade for hundreds of years, and thanks to this Drammen developed into one of Eastern Norway’s most important maritime and trading towns. 

    During the Viking Age, the area was called Dramm, a Norse word that can mean ‘waves’. In the Norse sagas, it is written that Olav the Holy (St. Olav) hid from Knut the Mighty in the Dramm fjord. Oslo’s Saint Hallvard is also from Drammen – he was killed and sunk in the Drammensfjord in 1043. 

    Drammen

    Drammen is today the fifth largest city in Norway, with a population of 111,000. It is also one of the fasted growing urban regions in the country. Despite this rapid modern growth, Drammen does have some interesting places to visit, as well as an interesting history. Read about Drammen on our dedicated travel guide page. 

    Vestfold og Telemark County

    You now cross into Vestfold and Telemark County. The two used to be two individual counties, but in 2020 they were merged under a government restructure. However, they are planning to separate again. So, you are technically just in Vestfold County!

    Holmestrand Municipality

    The area around Holmestrand has long been connected to timber trade and the construction of sailing ships. The Dutch first came to the area to trade timber in 1550, and Holmestrand grew quickly. You can visit the historic pier in the town centre. 

    Today Holmestrand is regarded as a popular holiday destination due to its proximity to some nice beaches. The first spa was built here in 1840. 

    Holmestrand town has a population of 8,000 people. 

    Detour: Tønsberg

    Tønsberg is a short detour off the E18 but is well worth it – it is regarded as Norway’s oldest town and was founded before the year 871. It was an important centre during the Viking Age. Some sites survive from old times, and there’s a great museum in town. 

    Sandefjord Municipality

    Sandefjord is known for its rich Viking history and is where one of the Viking ships at the Viking Ship Museum in Oslo were found – the Gokstad Ship. However, Sandefjord also developed as an important whaling centre and now has Europe’s only museum dedicated to whaling. 

    Today Sandefjord municipality is a popular summer destination for Norwegians and there are ferries linking the municipality to Germany and Denmark. 

    Sandefjord

    Sandefjord is worth spending some time in – the museums are wonderful and the town itself is charming. Learn about Sandefjord via our dedicated travel guide below. 

    Larvik Municipality

    Larvik municipality has a population of around 48,000 and like the other communities we have passed through, is today known as a popular summer spot for Norwegians.

    Larvik does have an interesting history, too. Remains from the Stone Age have been found here and during the Roman Iron Age, ancient peoples erected a stone monument resembling a ship at Istrehågen, and this is today regarded as one of Norway’s greatest remains from prehistoric times. 

    Larvik was a Danish county until 1817. The rest of Norway had come under Danish rule, and four local businessmen bought the county in 1817, making it part of Norway. 

    The highway passes by the town of Larvik. 

    Porsgrunn Municipality

    Porsgrunn was first mentioned in historic documents in 1576, but has been a place long before then. The area became an important harbour town in the late 16th century, and Porsgrunn was the home of some of Norway’s most influential families. For a while, Porsgrunn was considered the cultural centre of Norway.

    The processing industry is the biggest industry in the municipality, and Yara – one of the world’s largest mineral fertiliser factories – is located here. 

    Porsgrunn

    Porsgrunn is a town with a population of 35,000 and is the outlet of the Telemark Canal, so makes for a nice place to visit. 

    Kragerø

    Village

    Kragerø is a worthwhile detour  – it was referred to as ‘the pearl among coastal towns’ by Edvard Grieg, after all. At one point, it was one of Norway’s largest shipping towns. The village today is spread over both sides of the Bysundet strait and is a charming place to stop at. 

    Agder County

    Agder country stretches across the southern part of Norway. It is also commonly referred to as Sørlandet, or “the South”. 

    Agder was one of the petty kingdoms during the Viking Age, and the place is mentioned in teh Old Norse sagas. 

    Gjerstad Municipality

    The municipality of Gjerstad has been inhabited since the Stone Age, and the place was important during the Viking Age. Agriculture has been important here for centuries, and timber also provided a good income for many people.

    Risør Municipality

    Risør municipality is primarily a tourist municipality thanks to the lakes, hills and coastline. 

    In the first week of August, there is a wooden boat festival and the municipality has a growing reputation as the regional capital of arts and crafts. 

    The village of Risør has existed for a long time, and the Dutch began coming in the 16th century to trade timber. The village has a Baroque Church from 1647. 

    Sadly the whole town was destroyed by fire in 1861 and has been completely reconstructed since then. 

    You do not pass through Risør; rather, it is a short detour off the E18 highway. 

    After passing through the village of Akland, you will go through the Sørlands Portal – a tunnel marking the beginning of Southern Norway. 

    Tvedestrand Municipality

    Tvedestrand municipality is a historic municipality with the centre being the village of Tvedestrand. One of the oldest buildings in the municipality is Holt Church, which dates from the 12th century and has an ancient baptismal font.

    Tvedestrand

    Village

    Tvedestrand town is only a short detour off the E18 and is worth visiting. The town centre has white wooden houses with irregular streets built on steep hills around the harbour, making it a beautiful village. Around 2,000 buildings are more than 100 years old. It is a popular summer place for Norwegians because of the numerous islands and nice scenery. There are around 1,700 summer cottages here.

    Arendal Municipality

    Arendal municipality is a sizeable municipality with 45,000 people living here. It was mentioned for the first time as an important port in documents from 1528. 

    Arendal

    Arendal is commonly referred to as the ‘Venice of the North’ as the historic town is built on seven islets. Visit our dedicated travel guide page below. 

    Skaggerak Coast

    Coast

    Skagerakk is the strait that runs between the Jutland peninsula of Denmark and the southeast coast of Norway. It is one of the busiest shipping routes in the world because it is the passage from the North Sea to the Baltic Sea. It was historically the only entrance to the Baltic Sea, but since 1784 there has been the Eider Canal.

    Grimstad Municipality

    Grimstad municipality is centred around the coastal village of Grimstad, which has a harbour, church and museum dedicated to Henrik Ibsen. After all, Ibsen worked as an apprentice in the pharmacy before leaving the town in 1850. Ibsen’s knowledge of the people and surroundings of Grimstad can be seen in the poem Terje Vigen.

    Grimstad has been known for a long time, but it was recognised as a harbour town in 1622. By 1747, Grimstad had a sizeable sailing community and was a known place for smugglers.

    Grimstad

    Grimstad is a historic harbour town and a nice place to visit on your road-trip. Visit our dedicated road-trip page below. 

    Lillesand Municipality

    Lillesand municipality is centred around the town of Lillesand. It is one of the more modern ports along the Skaggerak coast as it was established in 1821. However, at the time it had nine shipyards. The end of sailing ships caused huge economic difficulties for the municipality as sailing ships were inexpensive due to the use of timber, whereas steamships required steel that was expensive. Many people from Lillesand ended up emigrating to the United States.

    In Lillesand you’ll find the National Park Skjærgårdsparken, which is spread out across islands, skerries and rocks. There’s also a Maritime Museum about the history of the municipality.

    Kristiansand Municipality

    Well, Kristiansand has one of the more impressive coat-of-arms I’ve seen!

    Kristiansand was established in 1641 and is named after the Danish-Norwegian King Christian IV (who also renamed Oslo after himself to Kristiania). The city is strategically located on the Skaggerak coast and used to be an important military base as all traffic had to pass here in and out of the Baltic Sea.

    Kristiansand

    You have made it to Kristiansand, the end of the drive on the E18. Kristiansand is an interesting historic city, so be sure to head over to our dedicated travel guide page to learn more. 

    Write any questions or comments you have in the section below!

  • Drive it Yourself: Båtsfjord to Kjøllefjord

    Drive it Yourself: Båtsfjord to Kjølleford

    The drive from Båtsfjord to Kjøllefjord is perfect if you want to avoid large crowds, towns, settlements, or any trace of civilisation. Sure, there may not be many shops or villages to stop at, but what makes this drive so special is the scenery. Both the Varanger peninsula and the Nordkyn peninsula are spectacular for geology, unique landscapes, and history. Just be warned – these are some of the most difficult roads to cross in winter and will probably be closed.

    I did this drive in September 2023, which was the best time of year to go – no snow, no mass amounts of caravans, but gorgeous orange colours and the northern lights at night. 

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    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    Båtsfjord to Kjøllefjord

    Båtsfjord

    Båtsfjord is one of Norway’s largest fishing communities and is also one of the most culturally diverse in the country. 

    Båtsfjordsfjellet

    Mountains

    Now you cross the Båtsfjordfjellet mountain at 358m above sea level. 

    Berlevåg Municipality

    Berlevåg municipality is located on the northwestern part of the Varanger peninsula. Most of the settlement is concentrated around the village of Berlevåg, though Kongsfjord is the second largest settlement. The coat-of-arms represents the municipality’s dependence on the sea – the waves towards the beach. The five waves represent the five places with permanent settlement.

    Tana-Deanu Municipality

    The Sami word “Deanu” The Sami word can be translated as ‘great river’, referring to the Tana River. The population of the municipality is around 2,800, with the population currently declining.

    The coat-of-arms represents riverboats that have been used in the area for centuries. The three boats symbolise the three ethnic groups here: Sami, Kven and Norwegian, and the colours mimic the red and yellow of the Norwegian coat-of-arms.

    The most important industries are agriculture or timber. The world’s northernmost dairy is Tine in Tana Bru, and it employs around 30 people.

    The municipality is located along the lower river basin of the Tana River. Most of the inhabitants are Sami people. The river is one of Europe’s main salmon rivers, though no large-scale commercial fishing is done.

    Austertana

    Village

    Austertana is a small village located along one of the inner bays of the Tanafjord. The village is home to both the Austertana Chapel and the world’s second largest quartzite quarry. Most of the town was destroyed by Nazis at the end of World War II.

    The highest mountain on the Varanger peninsula, named Stangenestind, is 724m above sea level and is at Austertana. The northernmost point of the Scandinavian birch forest is also here. In Austertana you can find Norway’s longest sandy beach; it is 13km long.

    After Austertana you pass through a boomgate. The road to Berlevåg often closes in winter due to snowstorms, isolating the town from the rest of Norway. The daily coastal ferry (Hurtigruten and Havila) is an essential service during this time. 

    Tana Bru

    This is the main village in Deanu-Tana. Tana Bru means ‘Tana Bridge’ in English and is named after the bridge that crosses the river to the village of Skiippagurra on the other side of the river.

    Rustefjelbma

    Village

    In the village of Rustefjelbma is the Tana Church. The church was consecrated in 1964 and seats 300 people. The old Tana Church was burned down by retreating Nazi forces in 1944.

    Mountain crossing

    Mountains

    You now cross the mountains next to the Tanafjord. This stretch of road can close in winter. 

    Gamvik Municipality

    Gamvik Municipality’s main centre is Mehamn, which we will visit later in this drive. Gamvik is known as one of the poorest and most undeveloped municipalities in Norway and has a declining population.

    The coat-of-arms shows fishing net sewing needles, a characteristic maritime tool used for making and mending the fishing nets used by local fishermen.

    Lebesby Municipality

    Lebesby municipality’s administrative centre is Kjøllefjord, where this drive ends. The municipality is dominated by ethnic Norwegians, whereas the areas around the Laksefjorden are predominantly Sami.

    Ifjord

    Village

    Ifjord is a small village. This is where you turn onto the Fv888 towards Kjøllefjord. 

    Bekkarfjord

    Village

    Bekkarfjord is an agricultural community with three dairy farms and Finnmark’s largest chicken farm.

    Boom gate

    Road info

    We are going to pass a boomgate now with a parking area where you have to wait for the convoy in winter. The Fv888, the highway we are on, opened in 1989 and is regarded as Norway’s most difficult highway to cross in winter because of frequent snowstorms and strong winds. It is common for the road to close in winter.

    Nordkyn Peninsula

    Peninsula

    The Nordkyn peninsula has a unique barren landscape. There’s no high peaks here, and there are large areas of ‘boulder oceans’ – expanses of broken rock virtually without soil or vegetation. The peninsula also has bustling fishing villages and lots of history. It ends at Kinnarodden, the northernmost point on mainland Europe.

    The peninsula is connected to the mainland at Hopseidet, a narrow isthmus between Eidsfjorden in the west and Hopsfjorden in the east. The isthmus is 2km wide at low tide, 500m wide at high tide, and the highest point is 2.5m above sea level. In the 17th century there were settlements here and a church. There have been many debates and discussions concerning the construction of a ship canal so boats aren’t exposed to the bad weather around the peninsula. 

    The Fv888 crosses this small isthmus. 

    Gamvik Municipality

    You cross back into Gamvik. 

    Nordkyn Junction

    Road info

    Shortly after crossing onto the peninsula you reach a junction – left to Kjøllefjord or right to Mehamn. This guide will include information on the road to Mehamn and Gamvik before ending at Kjøllefjord.

    Mehamn

    Welcome to Mehamn, the northernmost port of call on the coastal ferry and an important fishing village. 

    Gamvik

    Village

    Gamvik is a small fishing village with a population of around 100 people. The village was historically only accessible by boat and used to be a port of call for the Hurtigruten ships. However, since the harbour was so poor, the daily Hurtigruten steamers had to anchor a little way from the shore. The Hurtigruten stopped calling here in 1990.

    Gamvik is the place in Norway with the longest road distance from Oslo at 2,040km (1,270 miles) including going through international routes.

    Gamvik Church was built in 1958 on the site of the former church that was burned down during World War II. The first church to be built in Gamvik, known as the ‘Lapp Church’, or the ‘Sami Chapel’, was consecrated in 1858. It was a missionary church.

    Gamvik has the characteristic post-war architecture that prevailed during the rebuilding process after 1945. The population was forcibly evacuated in 1944 when all the houses were burnt down and the quaysides and boats were blown up or burnt.

    In the centre of the community is the Brodtkorb fish processing wharf. The wharf was owned by the Brodtkorb traders in Vardø. The wharf closed in 1969 because of the collapse of the market for dried fish. It is now used as a museum by Gamvik museum.

    Slettnes Lighthouse

    Lighthouse

    Slettnes Lighthouse is a historic lighthouse. It is the only cast iron lighthouse in Finnmark, built by bolting together cast iron rings. The lighthouse keeper and his assistants used to live here permanently. Four families each had their own house, animals and outside toilets. It wasn’t until the first road was built in the 1970s that it was possible to work on a rotation basis.

    The lighthouse wasn’t completely destroyed during World War II. The area around the lighthouse is an area with traces of some of the oldest settlements in Finnmark along with traces of old fishing settlements.

    Between Slettnes and Gamvik is an almost in tact fort from World War Ii. The bunkers, cannon emplacements and trenches have all been preserved. At lost, 130 men were stationed at the fort.

    Slettnes is a protected nature reserve. As many as 95 different species of birds have been observed in the nature reserve and 53 of these breed every year. It is one of the most important nature reserves in Scandinavia, both as a stop-over point for migrating birds and as a breeding area.

    Continue back to Kjøllefjord.

    Kjøllefjord

    Kjøllefjord is a charming fishing village located on the north-western part of the Nordkyn peninsula. 

    Next Drive

    Varanger Tourist Road

    Follow the Varanger Tourist Road from Hamningberg to Varangerbotn via Vardø and Vadsø. 

    Previous Drive

    Berlevåg to Båtsfjord

    This road follows the “Ishavsveien” – Arctic Sea Road – from Berlevåg to Båtsfjord. 

  • Drive it Yourself: Berlevåg to Båtsfjord

    Drive it Yourself: Berlevåg to Båtsfjord

    The drive from Berlevåg to Båtsfjord is something special. Both ports are incredibly isolated on the Finnmark coast, but are vital fishing communities for Norway. The rugged shoreline has been shaped by bad weather from the Barents Sea, and the geology here is some of the oldest in Norway. The drive itself is short, but well worth it on any road-trip in the north. 

    Here’s my self-guided drive from Berlevåg to Båtsfjord. 

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    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    Berlevåg to Båtsfjord

    Berlevåg

    Welcome to Berlevåg! Berlevåg is a small fishing community facing the Barents Sea. Berlevåg is famous around Norway for its mens choir!

    Kongshavn

    Cultural Heritage Site

     Kongshavn has remains of settlements dating approximately 10,000 years back, from the early Stone Age to the 190s. The older settlements are higher up, indicating where the shoreline used to be. 11 housegrounds from the late Stone Age are here, while closer to the sea are 4-5 sites of houses from the Iron Age.

    The site is not marked with signs, but there is a parking lot. 

    Kjølnes Lighthouse

    Lighthouse

    Ishavsveien

    Road

    The road is commonly called Ishavsveien and is fascinating for those interested in geology as there’s no soil or vegetation concealig the various types of rock, sediments and rock formations. Prehistoric shorelines here show how the land has risen.

    Kongsfjord

    Village

    Kongsfjord is a small fishing village with a population of around 32 people. It has been inhabited for hundreds of years and Kongsfjord is one of the few fishing settlements that wasn’t destroyed during World War II. The Kongsfjord River has special protection as a salmon river, and parts of the fjord are protected as a special landscape.

    The local shop (pictured top left) is full of charm and is a must-see when driving here. 

    Kongsfjordfjellet

    Mountains

    You now cross the Kongsfjordfjellet mountain, which is 326m (1069ft) above sea level. 

    Båtsfjordsfjellet

    Mountains

    Now you cross the Båtsfjordfjellet mountain at 358m above sea level. 

    Båtsfjord Municipality

    The landscape in Båtsfjord is geologically very old by Scandinavian standards, and to a large extent formed before the last ice ages. Ice sheets from the last ice ages lay frozen over large parts of the Varanger peninsula and thus changed the landscape to a small extent. The large block field areas are believed to be very old, before the last ice age.

    However, the ice has left behind a large number (several thousand) of distinctive ring-shaped formations, formations that are otherwise known from only a few places in the world. The area is also characterised by many long and sometimes crossing gullies, which tell a lot about the melting and movement of the ice.

    Båtsfjord

    Båtsfjord is one of Norway’s largest fishing communities and is also one of the most culturally diverse in the country. 

    Next Drive

    Varanger Tourist Road

    Follow the Varanger Tourist Road from Hamningberg to Varangerbotn via Vardø and Vadsø. 

    Previous Drive

    Berlevåg to Båtsfjord

    This road follows the “Ishavsveien” – Arctic Sea Road – from Berlevåg to Båtsfjord. 

  • Drive it Yourself: Varangerbotn to Berlevåg

    Drive it Yourself: Varangerbotn to Berlevåg

    The short drive from Varangerbotn to Berlevåg is incredible. After venturing off the E6 highway, you cross the Kongsfjordfjellet mountains, leave the tree line, and then drive alongside the Barents Sea. The last part of the drive – nicknamed the ‘Arctic Sea Road’ – is considered one of the best geological areas in Norway. 

    The road often closes in winter, so this is only a summer drive. 

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    Download this Guide

    All of our guides can be downloaded via our online store. 

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

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    Online Guide

    Downloadable Guide

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    Varangerbotn to Berlevåg

    Varangerbotn

    Village

    Varangerbotn is a small village that is the administrative centre of Nesseby. The population is around 341. In Varanger you can visit the Varanger Sami Museum, a museum for the history and culture of the Sami in Varangerbotn. The museum presents the Sea Sami history, Sami prehistory, and contemporary Sami culture.

    Tana-Deanu Municipality

    The Sami word “Deanu” The Sami word can be translated as ‘great river’, referring to the Tana River. The population of the municipality is around 2,800, with the population currently declining.

    The coat-of-arms represents riverboats that have been used in the area for centuries. The three boats symbolise the three ethnic groups here: Sami, Kven and Norwegian, and the colours mimic the red and yellow of the Norwegian coat-of-arms.

    The most important industries are agriculture or timber. The world’s northernmost dairy is Tine in Tana Bru, and it employs around 30 people.

    The municipality is located along the lower river basin of the Tana River. Most of the inhabitants are Sami people. The river is one of Europe’s main salmon rivers, though no large-scale commercial fishing is done.

    Skiippagurra

    Skiippagurra has a population of around 254 residents and is a historic trading place. This is where the E6 stops following the Tana River and continues across to Kirkenes.

    Tana Bru

    This is the main village in Deanu-Tana. Tana Bru means ‘Tana Bridge’ in English and is named after the bridge that crosses the river to the village of Skiippagurra on the other side of the river.

    At Tana Bru, leave the E6 and follow signs to Berlevåg. 

    Austertana

    Village

    Austertana is a small village located along one of the inner bays of the Tanafjord. The village is home to both the Austertana Chapel and the world’s second largest quartzite quarry. Most of the town was destroyed by Nazis at the end of World War II.

    The highest mountain on the Varanger peninsula, named Stangenestind, is 724m above sea level and is at Austertana. The northernmost point of the Scandinavian birch forest is also here. In Austertana you can find Norway’s longest sandy beach; it is 13km long.

    After Austertana you pass through a boomgate. The road to Berlevåg often closes in winter due to snowstorms, isolating the town from the rest of Norway. The daily coastal ferry (Hurtigruten and Havila) is an essential service during this time. 

    Kongsfjordfjellet

    Mountains

    You now cross the Kongsfjordfjellet mountain, which is 326m (1069ft) above sea level. 

    Berlevåg Municipality

    Berlevåg municipality is located on the northwestern part of the Varanger peninsula. Most of the settlement is concentrated around the village of Berlevåg, though Kongsfjord is the second largest settlement. The coat-of-arms represents the municipality’s dependence on the sea – the waves towards the beach. The five waves represent the five places with permanent settlement.

    Buetjernet

    Settlement

    Buetjernet is located just after the turn-off from the road to Båtsfjord. There is no permanent settlement here; these are all cabins. 

    Kongsfjord

    Village

    Kongsfjord is a small fishing village with a population of around 32 people. It has been inhabited for hundreds of years and Kongsfjord is one of the few fishing settlements that wasn’t destroyed during World War II. The Kongsfjord River has special protection as a salmon river, and parts of the fjord are protected as a special landscape.

    The local shop (pictured top left) is full of charm and is a must-see when driving here. 

    Ishavsveien

    Road

    The road is commonly called Ishavsveien and is fascinating for those interested in geology as there’s no soil or vegetation concealig the various types of rock, sediments and rock formations. Prehistoric shorelines here show how the land has risen.

    Kjølnes Lighthouse

    Lighthouse

    Varangerbotn is a small village that is the administrative centre of Nesseby. The population is around 341. In Varanger you can visit the Varanger Sami Museum, a museum for the history and culture of the Sami in Varangerbotn. The museum presents the Sea Sami history, Sami prehistory, and contemporary Sami culture.

    Berlevåg

    Welcome to Berlevåg! Berlevåg is a small fishing community facing the Barents Sea. Berlevåg is famous around Norway for its mens choir!

    Next Drive

    Berlevåg to Båtsfjord

    This road follows the “Ishavsveien” – Arctic Sea Road – from Berlevåg to Båtsfjord. 

    Previous Drive

    Varanger Tourist Road

    Follow the Varanger Tourist Road from Hamningberg to Varangerbotn via Vardø and Vadsø. 

  • Drive it Yourself: Varanger Tourist Road

    Drive it Yourself: Varanger Tourist Road

    The Varanger Tourist Road is one of Norway’s 18 national tourist roads and is definitely one of the most special. The Varanger Peninsula is a rugged mountain area partly covered in birch trees and partly above the tree line. Parts of the peninsula used to have an Arctic tundra climate but don’t any more. Still, the geology here is unique as most of the landscape was made before the last Ice Age. 

    The route is so special – you see lunar landscapes, flat plains, rolling hills and birch forests. You also pass sights with history and sites going back 10,000 years, abandoned fishing villages, and so much more. 

    Enjoy the Varanger Tourist Road. 

    In this article...

    Download this Guide

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    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

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    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    The Varanger Tourist Road

    Hamningberg

    This drive begins in Hamningberg, which is an abandoned fishing village with many buildings from before World War II. 

    Before the Second World War, around 700 people lived here. Hamningberg was one of the largest fishing communities in Finnmark and took part in the Pomor trade. However, the last three people left in 1978. 

    Vardø Municipality

    Vardø municipality is one of the first municipalities to be established in Northern Norway. The coat-of-arms is from 1898 and represents the sunshine, fishing boats, the ocean, and a large cod. In the chief is the year of the towns founding, 1789, along with the words “Vardöensis Insignia Urbis” which means “the seal of the town of Vardø”. In the lower part of the arms is the town motto “Cedant Tenebræ Soli”, meaning “Darkness shall give way to the sun”.

    Several Stone Age sites as well as sites dating from the Sami Iron Age have been found here. Vardø became a Norwegian settlement in the medieval period, and the first church was built here in 1307.

    Fishing and seafood processing are Vardø’s major sources of income. The municipality also has large seabird colonies on the islands of Hornøya and Reinøya.

    WWII Memorial

    Memorial

    Shortly after crossing into Vardø municipality you will pass this memorial on the left side. It is for three men who were executed here during World War II. 

    The drive from Hamningberg to Vardø is incredible. Be sure to stop as much as possible!

    Vardø

    The road does not go through Vardø, but the town is a short detour off the highway. I do recommend visiting the town – there’s a lot to see and do, and it also has a petrol station and some coffee shops. 

    Domen

    Viewpoint

    The mountain Domen is fairly unique thanks to its history. It has been known as ‘Heksefjellet’ (witch mountain) for a few hundred years as it’s believed that this is the place where the witches were meeting with the devil.

    The Vardø area was regarded as one of the worst areas in terms of the scope of the brutal witch hunts. In the year 1662/63 more than 30 women in Vardø were accused of witchcraft. Many of the women said that on the mountain Domen they had danced, drunk and consorted with the Devil. Domen was also where the ceremonies and sabbaths took place.

    It was believed that the devil lived in a cave in the mountain. Vardø’s location at what seems like the end of the world inspired speculation that this was the entrance to hell. This may explain why so much witch burning went on.

    Kiberg

    Village

    Kiberg was one of the largest fishing communities in the area during the 16th and 17th centuries, and was important during the Pomor Trade era. Kiberg is still important for fishing.

    Two women from Kiberg were burned at the stake during the 1621 witchcraft trials in Vardø. Their names were Mari Jørgensdatter and Kirsti Sørensdatter, and Kirsti was the last victim of the witchcraft trials.

    Kiberg was of strategic importance during World War II. The geographical proximity to the Soviet Union brought Russian and Norwegian people together. After the occupation of Norway, many locals went to the Soviet Union. Some returned and worked for the Soviet military intelligence services, with as many as 45 partisans in Kiberg.

    Their most important task was to pass on radio communications about the German shipping fleet. It has been estimated that around 80 German merchant ships were sunk on their way to Kirkenes due to the partisans passing on information. Around half the partisans were killed or executed during the war.

    In Kiberg you can visit the Partisan Museum, which is about the events here during World War II. 

    Vadsø Municipality

    Vadsø municipality is named after the town of Vadsø that we will soon be driving through. The coat-of-arms shows a reindeer as reindeer husbandry is common for the municipality and of great economic importance, especially for the Sami people.

    The municipality spreads across the southern coast of the Varanger peninsula. There are trees here as this part of the peninsula is sheltered from the sea, but the tree line is at around 200 metres above sea level.

    Skallelv

    Village

    Skallelv was originally one of the several purely Finnish communities in the area, populated at the end of the 19th century. The local people were known as Kvens, the North-Norwegian name for people of Norwegian-Finnish descent. Skallelv is one of the few remaining areas with buildings that were constructed before World War II. The oldest wooden houses here are from before 1860.

    Ekkerøy

    Village

    There has been settlement on Ekkerøy since at least the Middle Ages, and finds from the Viking Age have been found there. However, it is not known if Vikings settled there or if they traded there.

    Ekkerøy was an island until 1750, but now there is a land connection to the mainland. Ekkerøy was built up as a fishing village and at its peak had several landing piers, shops, a school, shrimp factory, fish oil processing plant, and dried fish racks. There were 270 people living there; today there are less than 50.

    Parts of Ekkerøy have been declared a nature reserve and the island also has a small bird cliff. In the breeding season, which is from May to September, the cliffs may be home to as many as 20,000 kittiwake pairs.

    The settlement of Ekkerøy was not destroyed during World War II. The well-preserved fish factory is now a museum with warehouses, a cod liver oil steamer, an old shop and an authentically furnished traders residence.

    Vadsø

    The only major town we drive through is Vadsø. There is a lot worth seeing here, so browse our separate travel guide page below. 

    Vestre Jakobselv

    Village

    Vestre Jakobselv is a small village with around 500 people living here. It has a primary and secondary school. The village is popular for its salmon fishing as the Jakobselva river has its outlet here.

    Nesseby Municipality

    Nesseby is a small municipality located at the isthmus between the Varangerfjord and the Tana River at the entrance to the Varanger peninsula. The population lives in small settlements along the fjord and the Varangerhalvøya National Park is partly located in the park. The municipality is known for its interesting birdlife and also its tundra with areas of bog and marsh.

    Today the municipality is known as Unjárga-Nesseby, reflecting the Sami community who live here. Nesseby was the second municipality in Norway to get a Sami name. Most of the inhabitants are Sami and Sami is being taught as the first language in schools. In historic times, reindeer used to cross this area as part of their annual migration.

    This led the Sami to coming into the area. The area between Skippagurra and Varangerbotn is full of archaeological finds from different periods.

    The coat-of-arms represents a cloudberry plant.

    The municipality is the birthplace of Isak Saba, the first Sami to be elected to the Norwegian parliament.

    Mortesnes Site

    Historic Site

    Mortesnes is considered to be one of the richest and most diverse cultural areas in Europe. The uninterrupted timeline and cultural contunity makes the area special. The land here has remains from the past, documenting a 10,000 year history of unbroken settlement and provides a picture of key feature in the development of the settlement of Finnmark after the last Ice Age. The area also provides a picture of the background and emergence of Sami cultural features.

    There is a walking trail that you can follow. Here you can see traces of settlement in the form of tent rings and tufts on the shorelines according to the past sea levels. The area also contains a large, pre-Christian burial ground, which dates from approx. 1000BC to 1500AD. Over 400 graves are here. Various sacrificial places have also been found. The most famous monument here is Transteinen, which was believed to be smeared with cod liver oil to ensure good fishing luck.

    One of the oldest ski finds in Norway comes from one of the graves in the area and was found in 1853. The skis are from 400BC. Reindeer trapping facilities have also been found here, along with various materials, tools, and objects made of ceramic and metal.

    It is free to walk around the trail, and in summer they have a museum that you can visit.

    Nesseby Church

    Historic Church

    Nesseby Church is from 1858 and is the only wooden church in Eastern Finnmark that was not destroyed by the Nazis during World War II. Parts of the inventory are from the 17th and 18th centuries and some come from other churches. For example, the altarpiece is baroque and comes from the old Kiberg Church.

    Today the church is relatively the same as when it was built.

    Outside the church is Nesseby’s oldest building: an old log cabin. It was moved here in 1746 ad the door is from the 17th century and probably originates from the time that the church stood on Vadsø.

    There is a legend as to why Nesseby Church was saved. Sverre Raddum was the parish priest here during the war. He was a big, strong and rugged fellow, and known to be a tough guy. When the Germans were going to burn Nesseby Church, he stood on the steps and waited for them with the priests collar around his neck, and did not let them in. In German, he told them: “If there is someone who goes to church or a house of worship with evil thoughts, then they are guaranteed to be punished by higher powers”. The Germans immediately gave up bruning the church. Raddum saved his church.

    Gornitak Rasteplass

    Rest Area

    Gornitak (Sámi: Gorgŋetak) means ascent. This rest area lies on the Varangerfjord close into a mountainside under a high firmament and with a view to the sea in the east. The service facilities are housed in an old, restored stone building that served as an ammunitions store during the Second World War.

    Varangerbotn

    Village

    Varangerbotn is a small village that is the administrative centre of Nesseby. The population is around 341. In Varanger you can visit the Varanger Sami Museum, a museum for the history and culture of the Sami in Varangerbotn. The museum presents the Sea Sami history, Sami prehistory, and contemporary Sami culture.

    Next Drive

    Varangerbotn to Berlevåg

    Follow this isolated drive from Varangerbotn to Berlevåg in Finnmark. 

  • Drive it Yourself: Kirkenes to Vardø via the E6 and E75

    Drive it Yourself: Kirkenes to Vardø on the E6 and E75

    Here’s my guide to the drive from Kirkenes to Vardø on the E75. Looking for a drive that will take you through the rugged Eastern Finnmark? To be honest, when I did this drive I had it planned as more of a “A to B” type of drive. I wasn’t expecting the scenery to be so incredible! The drive on the E6 from Kirkenes to Varangerbotn is so rocky and wild, while the E75 becomes flat and barren. This drive is incredible.

    Part of this drive does make up the Varanger Tourist Road, but I have decided to write that as a separate article. For this article, I wanted to focus on this drive as though it were just a regular highway. Enjoy!

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    Download this Guide

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    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

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    Online Guide

    Downloadable Guide

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    Kirkenes to Vardø via the E6 and E75

    Kirkenes

    This drive begins in Kirkenes, which is one of the easternmost cities in Norway. It has a fascinating war and cultural history and is worth spending some time in.

    Russian border

    Border crossing/detour

    It is possible to drive to the Russian border, but you cannot cross the border into Russia. You will see signs pointing to Murmansk, which is approximately 255km (158 miles), or a 3 hour drive, away. On the border is a souvenir shop, restrooms, and signs pointing to Russia that you can take photos of. 

    Bjørnevatn

    Town

    The community of Bjørnevatn, also known as ‘the mining town’, has been of strategic importance for the development of Kirkenes. The mine is Europe’s largest open-cast mine and opened in 1906. It has since closed down. The mine did reopen in 2009, but shut again in 2015 due to lower costs from other countries. Today around 2,500 people live in Bjørnevatn.

    Garrison Sør-Varanger

    Military Barracks

    The garrison in Sør-Varanger is a military unit based at Høybuktmoen. The departments main task is to patrol and monitor the Norwegian-Russian border. The garrison consists mainly of conscripted soldiers, and there are 400 new conscripts every six months. They mostly tell tourists when they are wandering into Russia, but another goal is to monitor Russian activity on the border.

    Kirkenes Airport

    Airport

    Kirkenes was originally built as a military air station by the Luftwaffe during World War II. The airport reopened for civilians in 1963 with a new terminal and extended runway.

    The airport has direct flights to Oslo and Tromsø through SAS and Norwegian, as well as Widerøe flights to Vadsø and other small coastal communities. 

    Neiden

    Village

    Neiden is regarded as the centre of Eastern Sami culture in Norway and a large proportion of the population are of Finnish descent.

     A large part of the population are Skolt Sami, which is the Orthodox Sami. In town is the Skolt Sami Museum from 2017, which is trying to preserve and present Skolt Sami culture. They also have an outdoor museum with preserved buildings from an old Skolt Sami settlement. It includes St. Georges Chapel, a Russian Orthodox chapel that was built in 1565.

    The Skolt Sami are a unique Sami group. They are more closely related to the Russians compared to the Finns or Norwegians and are regarded as a minority group amongst the Sami. They have been more severely impacted by land borders and country regulations than other Sami groups and are marked by high unemployment and low literacy rates. The Skolt Sami language is considered highly endangered and was only written down in 1992.

    There is a settlement called Neiden on the Norwegian and the Finnish side. The area used to be one settlement for the Skolt Sami, but when the borders were laid out in the 1850s they were separated. When the area was divided up, Neiden was forced to split across the countries.

    Neiden also has Neiden Chapel – built in 1902 as a Norwegian ‘dragestil’ (dragon style) church to symbolise the Norwegian state sovereignty in the area. It is a Lutheran church and is well worth seeing. The Norwegian government invited Norwegian settlers to the area, building the Lutheran church to counterbalance the Orthodox chapel.

    Skolt Sami Museum

    Museum

    The Skolt Sami museum is a cultural history museum dedicated to the Eastern Sami, or the Skolt Sami.

    Visit their website here: https://dvmv.no/en/vv-skoltesamisk-muse/avv-skoltesami-museum/

    Bugøyfjord
    Village

    Bugøyfjord is a small village along the Varangerfjord. It was a predominantly Sami community until the Kven people arrived in the 1860s. It was one of the first villages to be burned to the ground by Germans during the retreat in 1944.

    In the village is a memorial marker for John Savio. He is the first Sami person to have his own exhibition in the National Gallery in Oslo. He didn’t achieve fame during his life, but since his death has been recognised as one of the greatest Sami artists. He is also the only Sami artist to make a name for himself before World War II. He worked primarily in wood cuts.

    Nesseby Municipality

    Nesseby is a small municipality located at the isthmus between the Varangerfjord and the Tana River at the entrance to the Varanger peninsula. The population lives in small settlements along the fjord and the Varangerhalvøya National Park is partly located in the park. The municipality is known for its interesting birdlife and also its tundra with areas of bog and marsh.

    Today the municipality is known as Unjárga-Nesseby, reflecting the Sami community who live here. Nesseby was the second municipality in Norway to get a Sami name. Most of the inhabitants are Sami and Sami is being taught as the first language in schools. In historic times, reindeer used to cross this area as part of their annual migration.

    This led the Sami to coming into the area. The area between Skippagurra and Varangerbotn is full of archaeological finds from different periods.

    The coat-of-arms represents a cloudberry plant.

    The municipality is the birthplace of Isak Saba, the first Sami to be elected to the Norwegian parliament.

    Bugøynes

    Village/Detour

    Bugøynes was established by Finnish immigrants in the 19th century. They had left their own country due to political unrest and poor living conditions, and came to Norway with their experience in agriculture. They also quickly learned the knowledge of fjord fishing. The Finns also brought their religious traditions with them – a conservative Christian movement known as Læstadianism. It still holds a firm footing in the village.

    The village was saved from the destruction of World War II, so the Finnish architecture has been preserved. The Finnish influence is still strong here, and most of the people living here are of Finnish descent and have Finnish names.

    Bugøynes is around a 15-20 minute detour off the E6, but is well worth it. 

    Varangerbotn

    Village

    Varangerbotn is a small village that is the administrative centre of Nesseby. The population is around 341. In Varanger you can visit the Varanger Sami Museum, a museum for the history and culture of the Sami in Varangerbotn. The museum presents the Sea Sami history, Sami prehistory, and contemporary Sami culture.

    E6 & E75 junction

    Roundabout

    This is where the E6 and the E75 separate. The E75 continues onto the Varanger peninsula towards Vardø, while the E6 goes towards Tana Bru and Lakselv. The roundabout in town marks the beginning the National Tourist Road for Varanger, one of Norway’s 18 national tourist roads. I cover the tourist road in a separate article.

    Vadsø Municipality

    Vadsø municipality is named after the town of Vadsø that we will soon be driving through. The coat-of-arms shows a reindeer as reindeer husbandry is common for the municipality and of great economic importance, especially for the Sami people.

    The municipality spreads across the southern coast of the Varanger peninsula. There are trees here as this part of the peninsula is sheltered from the sea, but the tree line is at around 200 metres above sea level.

    Vestre Jakobselv

    Village

    Vestre Jakobselv is a small village with around 500 people living here. It has a primary and secondary school. The village is popular for its salmon fishing as the Jakobselva river has its outlet here.

    Vadsø

    The only major town we drive through is Vadsø. There is a lot worth seeing here, so browse our separate travel guide page below. 

    Ekkerøy

    Village

    There has been settlement on Ekkerøy since at least the Middle Ages, and finds from the Viking Age have been found there. However, it is not known if Vikings settled there or if they traded there.

    Ekkerøy was an island until 1750, but now there is a land connection to the mainland. Ekkerøy was built up as a fishing village and at its peak had several landing piers, shops, a school, shrimp factory, fish oil processing plant, and dried fish racks. There were 270 people living there; today there are less than 50.

    Parts of Ekkerøy have been declared a nature reserve and the island also has a small bird cliff. In the breeding season, which is from May to September, the cliffs may be home to as many as 20,000 kittiwake pairs.

    The settlement of Ekkerøy was not destroyed during World War II. The well-preserved fish factory is now a museum with warehouses, a cod liver oil steamer, an old shop and an authentically furnished traders residence.

    Skallelv

    Village

    Skallelv was originally one of the several purely Finnish communities in the area, populated at the end of the 19th century. The local people were known as Kvens, the North-Norwegian name for people of Norwegian-Finnish descent. Skallelv is one of the few remaining areas with buildings that were constructed before World War II. The oldest wooden houses here are from before 1860.

    Vardø Municipality

    Vardø municipality is one of the first municipalities to be established in Northern Norway. The coat-of-arms is from 1898 and represents the sunshine, fishing boats, the ocean, and a large cod. In the chief is the year of the towns founding, 1789, along with the words “Vardöensis Insignia Urbis” which means “the seal of the town of Vardø”. In the lower part of the arms is the town motto “Cedant Tenebræ Soli”, meaning “Darkness shall give way to the sun”.

    Several Stone Age sites as well as sites dating from the Sami Iron Age have been found here. Vardø became a Norwegian settlement in the medieval period, and the first church was built here in 1307.

    Fishing and seafood processing are Vardø’s major sources of income. The municipality also has large seabird colonies on the islands of Hornøya and Reinøya.

    Komagvær

    Village

    Komagvær is one of the main gateways to the Varanger National Park, with a gravel road leaving from the town into the park. In the valley are many types of birds, including the Arctic Skua.

    Kiberg

    Village

    Kiberg was one of the largest fishing communities in the area during the 16th and 17th centuries, and was important during the Pomor Trade era. Kiberg is still important for fishing.

    Kiberg was of strategic importance during World War II. The geographical proximity to the Soviet Union brought Russian and Norwegian people together. After the occupation of Norway, many locals went to the Soviet Union. Some returned and worked for the Soviet military intelligence services, with as many as 45 partisans in Kiberg.

    Their most important task was to pass on radio communications about the German shipping fleet. It has been estimated that around 80 German merchant ships were sunk on their way to Kirkenes due to the partisans passing on information. Around half the partisans were killed or executed during the war.

    Vardø Tunnel

    Tunnel

    The Vardø Tunnel is a subsea road tunnel stretching 2.8km (9,400 ft) under the Bussesundet strait that connects the island of Vardøya to the mainland. The tunnel reaches a depth of 88m (289ft) and was opened in 1983.

    Vardø

    This drive finishes in Vardø, Norway’s easternmost city. Vardø is an important historic city and a fantastic place to base yourself while in Eastern Finnmark. 

    Next Drive

    Varanger Tourist Road

    Follow the Varanger Tourist Road from Hamningberg to Varangerbotn via Vardø and Vadsø. 

  • Drive it Yourself: Geiranger to Sandane via Stryn & Loen

    Drive it Yourself: Geiranger to Sandane via Stryn and Loen

    In June 2023 Sean and I set off for a weekend in the fjords. The goal was to film as much as possible while the weather was good. Originally I had wanted to do the Gamle Strynefjellvegen Tourist Road, but it was still closed because of snow. Oh well – it’s just an excuse to go back!

    This road was beautiful. I hadn’t been to this part of Western Norway for years, and was reminded of just how special it was. A highlight was the stretch from Loen to Utvik; easily the most beautiful fjord I’ve driven along.

    We chose Sandane to spend the night because of the historic hotel; it was a town I had never heard of but I had heard of the hotel. 

    In this article...

    Download this Guide

    All of our guides can be downloaded via our online store. 

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

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    Online Guide

    Downloadable Guide

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    Geiranger to Sandane via Stryn & Loen

    Geiranger

    This drive begins in Geiranger, a popular village due to its incredible fjord. This is also the end of the Trollstigen Tourist Road, a very popular road in Western Norway. You can read all about Geiranger via our travel guide page. 

    Flydalsjuvet

    Scenic Overlook

    As you leave Geiranger there is a lovely viewpoint over the village and the fjord called Flydalsjuvet. It’s not to be missed!

    Knuten

    Historic Site

    Knuten (the Knot) is a section of the old road. It’s still the same as it was when it opened in 1882. It is a loop road used to get up/down the steep mountain. The road curves 270 degrees, and was designed to reduce the road graient for passing horses and people.

    It’s important to note that it’s very hard to see Knuten if you’re going down into Geiranger. It’s best viewed if going up from Geiranger.

    Cars are not allowed to go up, but people and bikes can.

    Dalsnibba Viewpoint

    We are now at the famous Dalsnibba Viewpoint. It’s a lengthy detour, but if you can see the mountain peaks, it’s well worth doing.

    Dalsnibba is a viewpoint located at an altitude of 1,746m. From the top, you can see Geiranger, the Geirangerfjord, and the road we’ve taken to get here. The view is unlike anything else. The road is only 5km (3 mi) off the main road, but it takes a long time as the road is narrow, has many hairpin bends, and often has a lot of traffic.

    The road has a toll as it is a private road. You can see updated prices via the link in the description. At the top you’ll find a café, souvenir shop, and incredible views. It is often very, very cold and very windy. Bring extra layers! Snow is common all year round.

    Innlandet County

    Skjåk Municipality

    Skjåk is a municipality in Innlandet. It’s part of the traditional region of Gudbrandsdalen. The name comes from an old farm.

    After the last Ice Age, it’s believed reindeer followed the ice as it retreated north to Scandinavia. Skjåk is in the middle of the central migration route for the Scandinavian reindeer. There are ancient large hunting facilities and traces of settlements that show hunting and trapping was important here from the Ice Age until today. There are farm names that date back to the Iron Age. There is a hunting facility for moose from 220-570AD.

    The region is mentioned in the Viking Age and has a rich cultural heritage. St. Olav supposedly travelled through the valley when he was Christianising the villages. He christianised Lom, but Skjåk refused. As a result, the village was burned. St. Olav said: “It’s a pity to burn such a beautiful village”.

    There was a high population growth during the Middle Ages, and there were around 120 farms here just before the Black Death in 1349. After the plague, the population was more than halved. In the second half of the 17th century, the population recovered to the pre-plague numbers. Most of the farms in Skjåk were owned by the farmers. From 1730, the forest began to be exploited for the timber industry.

    You will then turn right, following signs towards Stryn. We did this trip in the low season so were not able to do the Gamle Strynefjellvegen Tourist Road, but if you are doing this drive from mid-June to early September, the road will be open. 

    Vestlandet County

    Stryn Municipality

    Stryn municipality is located around the innermost part of the Nordfjorden. Farming, forestry, fruit growing, animal breeding for fur and manufacturing is important to the region. Stryn is also known for its all-year glacier skiing at Stryn Sommerski.

    Strynefjellet

    Mountains

    Strynefjellet is a mountain range that separates Vestland and Innlandet counties. The mountain area is partly within the Breheimen National Park and the mountains are the main watershed between West and East Norway.

    Oppstrynsvatn

    Lake

    The Oppstrynsvatnet lake is the main outflow of the river Stryneelva, which flows west into the Nordfjorden. The village we are driving through is located by the lake. This is where you also find the Jostedalsbreen National Park Centre.

    Stryn

    The village of Stryn has a population of around 2,600 people. One of the fastest growing industries here is tourism because of the proximity to the national parks and popular areas like Geiranger. Stryn is the administrative centre for the region.

    Loen Skylift

    The Loen Skylift is an incredible cable car that rises 1000m (3300ft) above sea level. We covered it in a separate article, which you can see below. 

    Loen

    Loen is a small village located on the inner part of the Nordfjord. Loen is home to the historic Hotel Alexandra, which opened in 1884. It is named after Princess Alexandra of Denmark. The hotel has undergone a lot of development since it opened, and it is currently in its fifth generation of the same family running it. Loen Church is from 1838 and is located higher up in the valley, but historical records indicate that a church has been here since the early 14th century.

    Olden

    Olden is a small village with around 500 people. This is where the larger cruise ships dock that are heading to Loen or the Jostedalsbreen National Park. In 2019, 102 cruise ships came here. The Briksdalsbreen glacier is a popular hiking destination and is located about 25km (16 mi) from Olden.

    Innvik

    Village

    Innvik is a small village with around 430 people living there. At its peak, however, there were over 3,000 people living here.

    Utvik

    Village

    Utvik is a small village with around 332 people living there. The village is located on the southern side of the Nordfjord. Utvik has been an important communications hub for hundreds of years. The Royal Trondheim Postal Route was established through here in 1795, and at Utvik the postal workers would take a boat to the northern side of the fjord.

    Utvik developed as an important place for trade. There was an inn, pier, post office, bakers, dyers, and blacksmiths living here. Trade has existed here since the mid-17th century. Additionally, there has been a church in Utvik since the 14th century, though the church the village has today is from 1840. The altarpiece and pulpit are from 1617, while the church bells are from the Middle Ages.

    Today Utvik has a large production of fruit and berries.

    Gloppen Municipality

    Gloppen is a municipality located just south of the Nordfjord with around 5,800 people living there. Part of the municipality is located around the Gloppefjorden. Gloppen is one of the largest agricultural municipalities in Western Norway and accounts for 10% of Norway’s milk production.

    The word ‘Gloppen’ comes from the old Norse Gloppi and means “narrow opening”. The area was an important place in the Viking Age, and a number of burial mounds have been found here. Some of the oldest burial mounds go back to the 4th century. Karnilshaugen is West Norway’s largest mound – 7 metres high and a diameter of 50 metres. It was probably built as an astronomical mark as the mound is the last point to receive sun during the winter solstice.

    Sandane

    Sandane is a small town with a population of 2,500. The centre is fairly modern, but people have lived here for hundreds of years. The village has a high school, football team, gold course and small airport. The main square of the town is Heradsplassen, which has a monument of a copy of a wooden object that was found dating to the 4th century. The original is in the Historical Museum in Bergen. This is the only wood carving of its type to be found in Norway; similar objects have been found in Iran and Afghanistan.

    Sandane is home to the Gloppen Hotel, one of Norway’s historic hotels. The hotel was established in 1866 and is today owned by the hotel chain Classic Norway. It was extended in 1921 and now has a Swiss-style appearance. The highlight of the hotel is the kitchen. Gloppen Mat is the hotels own production kitchen in the back garden, and the restaurant only serves locally sourced food.

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

    Previous Drive

    Trollstigen Tourist Road

    Before this drive, we completed the Trollstigen Tourist Road. 

  • Drive it Yourself: Dombås to Ålesund via Åndalsnes on the E136

    Drive it Yourself: Dombås to Ålesund via Åndalsnes on the E136

    Here’s my guide to the drive from Dombås to Ålesund on the E136. In June 2023 Sean and I decided to take advantage of a sunny weekend and head out to the fjords for a road-trip. I have only ever driving along Trollveggen once, and I vaguely remembered it. However, I had heard over and over again how beautiful it was and realised this was the perfect chance to see the mountains. The drive is short but so beautiful and a great thing to do before climbing up Trollstigen. 

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    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

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    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    Dombås to Ålesund on the E136

    Dombås Travel Guide

    This drive begins in Dombås, an important transportation hub. You can read about Dombås on our travel guide below. 

    E136

    Highway

    The E136 highway goes between Ålesund and Dombås, connecting the coastal city with the E6 highway that runs through Norway. The E136 is the main road running between Eastern Norway and the Ålesund/Molde region.

    The old road was, in historic times, an important road for the farmers of the northern part of the Gudbrandsdalen valley and the surrounding mountain villages. They would use the road to get access to the sea, where they could buy items like salt.

    This was one of the first roads between Eastern and Western Norway to be paved as a driving road. Old stations still exist along the road where those travelling in carriages would stop to rest.

    The road runs parallel to the Rauma Railway, a scenic train. Construction for the railway began in 1912 and it was open in 1924. The railway is today mostly a scenic train.

    Lesja Municipality

    Lesja is a mountainous municipality located in the traditional Gudbrandsdalen region. Most of the municipality is above 900m above sea level. The main industry here is agriculture, employing around 30% of the population.

    Rauma Valley

    Valley

    The Romsdalen valley is one of the most spectacular valleys in Norway. Large parts of the valley are narrow and run between high alpine mountains. The valley floor rises from the Romsdalsfjorden and the Rauma river runs through the valley.

    Lesjaverk

    Valley

    Lesjaverk is a small village located at 633m above sea level. In 1659, an ironworks was established here. The mines had a very uneven supply of ore and business here was never stable. However, the iron ore was of very good quality due to the amount of chromium in the ore. The ironworks closed in 1812 as the operation was of never any great importance. Remnants of the mine exist around the village.

    Bjorli

    Village

    Bjorli is a small village that is popular for skiing, with the Bjorli Ski Centre being located here. The area has stable snow conditions and a long ski season. Bjorli is also a good base for the Dovrefjell-Sunndalsfjella National Park. One scene in ‘Harry Potter and the Half-Blood Prince’ was filmed in this area because of its unique mountainous terrain.

    Møre og Romsdal County

    Rauma Municipality

    Rauma municipality is known for its incredible diversity of nature. In the outer parts, the mountains are low and the slopes are gentler. In the inner parts, the slopes are steeper and many mountains have vertical walls. The highest mountain is Pyttegga, at 1999m above sea level.

    Agriculture has traditionally been the most important industry in Rauma, but the number of farms has been greatly reduced since the last half of the 20th century. In the mid-19th century the area became industrialised with textiles factories, and Rauma wool was established in 1927. Today tourism is an important industry.

    Trollveggen

    Mountain Wall

    You are now beginning your drive along Trollveggen, the ‘Troll Wall’ in English. It is Europe’s highest vertical cliff and is approximately 1,700 metres high, with around a 1,000 metre vertical drop. The area has been popular with climbers since the 1960s.

    Kors Kirke

    Church

    Soon we will pass Kors Kirke on the right. This church is from 1797 but was moved from its original location to here in 1902. There has been a church in the valley since the 15th century.

    Trollveggen Visitor Centre

    Trollveggen Visitor Centre is located close to the start of the Trollstigen Tourist Road. Here you’ll find restrooms, a cafeteria and a souvenir shop. There is also some information about Trollveggen and the surrounding area. 

    Trollstigen Tourist Road

    Shortly before arriving at Åndalsnes, you’ll pass the turn-off to the Trollstigen Tourist Road, one of Norway’s 18 national tourist roads. It is a lengthy detour, but is well worth doing!

    Åndalsnes

    Åndalsnes is a scenic fjord-side town with all the major facilities you need during a road-trip. It is also am excellent place to stay if you want to break up the drive. 

    Veblungsnes

    Village

    Veblungsnes is a small village just across the river from Åndalsnes. It is a historic farm that has existed for hundreds of years. In the last 200 years it has developed into a village. The Rauma wool company is located here. The local church, Grytten Church, is from 1829.

    After passing through the village, you’ll go through the 6.5km-long Innfjord Tunnel. 

    Innfjorden

    Village

    Innfjorden is a small village located within Rauma municipality. The village is primarily agricultural. The Innfjorden fjord that the village sits along is a branch of the Romsdalsfjorden.

    Vestnes Municipality

    Vestnes is a mountainous municipality that is mentioned in the Norse sagas, when a chieftain lived here. The municipality is divided into three by two fjords. The main industry here is agriculture, with some maritime industry and boat building.

    Vikebukt

    Village

    Vikebukt is a small village with around 650 people living here. The larger town of Molde is located just across the fjord, but a ferry is needed to get across there. The village has been inhabited since the Viking Age, and today a number of burial mounds can be found throughout the area.

    After driving through Vikebukt you cross the Tresfjordbrua Bridge. 

    Vestnes

    Village

    Vestnes village is located on the shore of the Tresfjorden, which is a branch of the Romsdalsfjord. It is the administrative centre for the municipality. This is also where the E39 merges with the E136, which you have been travelling on so far. From Vestnes it is possible to take a ferry across to Molde.

    Ålesund Municipality

    Ålesund

    Ålesund is one of the larger towns along the west Norwegian coast. It is most famous for its Art Nouveau architecture and modern fishing industry. Read our guide to Ålesund below. 

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

    Previous Drive

    Lom to Dombås

    See the previous day’s drive from Lom to Dombås via Highway 15 and the E6. 

    Next Drive

    Trollstigen Tourist Road

    On the next drive, we take the Trollstigen Tourist Road from Åndalsnes across to Geiranger. 

  • Drive it Yourself: Lom to Dombås on the Rv15 & E6

    Drive it Yourself: Lom to Dombås on the Rv15 & E6

    Here’s my guide from Lom to Dombås on the Rv15 and E6 highways. In June 2023 Sean and I decided to take a scenic road-trip through the fjords of Western Norway while the weather was good. My goal was to redo Trollstigen, which we had already done but only ever in bad weather. To get there, I thought it would be interesting to drive from Dombås along the Trollveggen mountains. This drive from Lom to Dombås doesn’t exactly have the most spectacular views, but it is a practical way of getting from west to east Norway. There are some interesting historic places along the way, and we cover those below. 

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    Lom to Dombås via the Rv15 and E6

    Lom Travel Guide

    Lom is a beautiful town and well worth a visit when in Norway. It is located between some of Norway’s most famous national parks and is home to Lom Stave Church, one of the most impressive stave churches left. 

    Garmo

    Village

    Garmo is an interesting historic village. The village is mentioned in documents back to the 13th century as a major farm. Over the centuries it has been divided into smaller farms.

    One of the famous legends from Garmo is how it got its first church. The legend says that Torgeir, an old man from Garmo, was given fishing rights by King Olav (later Saint Olav) after a dispute in 1021 in exchange for converting to Christianity and building a church. The right to fish was always highly valued.

    Garmo Stave Church is from around 1130. The church is no longer in the village; it was moved to Maihaugen in Lillehammer in 1921. The writer and Nobel Prize winner Knut Hamsun was baptized at the stave church in Garmo. His childhood home was located near Lom.  

    Today the village is known for its tradition-rich fiddling community.

    Vågå Municipality

    We are now in the Våga municipality, which itself is located within the Otta Valley. The area is mentioned in the Old Norse Sagas, and it is said that King Olav stayed here while christianising the region. The population was told they had to become Christian, or their homes would be burned down.

    Most of the municipality is higher than 900m above sea level, and on the northern side of the valley the mountains can reach peaks of 1500m – 1600m above sea level.

    Valdresflye Tourist Road

    Just before reaching the village of Vågåmo, you’ll pass the turn to drive onto the Valdresflye Tourist Road, one of Norway’s 18 national tourist roads. You can learn more about it in a separate article. 

    Vågåmo

    Vågåmo is a small village with around 1,500 people living there. It is located by the Våga Lake. In the centre of town is the Vågå Chruch from the 17th century that was partly built with parts from an older stave church. The Vågå rectory (Ullinsvin) is where Edvard Munch’s great grandmother had a herb garden.

    Vågåmo is one of the driest areas in Norway but has been hit by floods and landslides. Extreme floods and landslides have occurred throughout history; the best known is from 1789 while the most recent major event was in 2006.

    Sel Municipality

    Sel is regarded as the gateway to some of the most beautiful mountain areas in Norway, including Rondane and Jotunheimen. The word ‘sel’ comes from the Old Norse ‘sil’, which means ‘still, flowing water’. Here there is little rainfall, cold winters, and warm summers.

    The village of Sel has several historic farmhouses. The famous novel “Kristin Lavransdatter” by Sigrid Undset is set in Sel on a fictional farm, and the movie from the 1990s was filmed here.

    Rondane National Park

    When the Rv15 meets up with the E6, there will be some turn-offs to head towards the Rondane National Park. We covered this in a separate article. 

    Dovre Municipality

    Dovre is a municipality within the Gudbrandsdalen valley. Large parts of the municipality include the Rondane, Dovrefjell-Sunndalsfjella and Dovre national parks. The municipality is known for its rich flora and fauna, especially the musk ox. There are also populations of wild reindeer and wolverines.

    Dombås

    Dombås is a small town with a population of around 1,161 and is located at the northern part of Gudbrandsdalen. The village is a popular hub for access to the national parks in the surrounding area.

    In historic times, Dombås was an important station for travellers heading between Oslo and Trondheim. Today it is still an important transport hub, with the Dovrebanen and Raumabanen railways meeting here. Also, the E6 and E136 highways meet here.

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

    Previous Drive

    Lærdal to Lom

    See the previous day’s drive from Lærdal to Lom via Tindeveien and the Sognefjellet Tourist Road. 

    Next Drive

    Dombås to Åndalsnes

    On the next drive, we take the E136 from Dombås to Åndalsnes, driving alongside the incredible Trollveggen mountain range. 

  • Drive it Yourself: Lærdal to Lom via Tindeveien & Sognefjellet

    Drive it Yourself: Lærdal to Lom via Tindeveien & Sognefjellet

    Here’s my self-guided drive for the journey from Lærdal to Lom via the Sognefjellet Tourist Road. In June 2023, Sean and I decided to head out for a weekend in the fjords. Very good weather was forecast, and we didn’t want to miss an opportunity to see this area in the sun! The last time we did Sognefjellet, in September 2020, it was incredibly stormy and we missed all the views. 

    We left Bergen in the afternoon and had a brief break in Lærdal before beginning the journey. I didn’t know what to expect when driving through Årdal to get to Sognefejllet; I had never heard of Tindeveien before and figured it would just be some back road. But wow, was I wrong. Tindeveien was one of the most beautiful roads I have driven on in Norway. Why don’t more people know about it? Well, hopefully I can share it to other people driving in Western Norway.

    Here’s my guide to the very, very scenic drive from Lærdal to Lom via Tindeveien and Sognefjellet. 

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    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

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    Lærdal to Lom via Tindeveien & Sognefjellet

    Lærdal Travel Guide

    Lærdal has been a trading place since the Middle Ages and probably took over from the old Viking marketplace Kaupanger. Coastal farmers brought herring and fish and exchanged goods with mountain farmers from Valdres and Hallingdal. The Lærdal Market is first mentioned in written sources in 1596. It eventually ended but restarted in 1982 and is still held every year.

    Sognefjord

    Fjord

    We are now driving along the Sognefjord, which is the longest and deepest fjord in Norway. It is 205km (approx. 125 mi) long and 1303m deep at its deepest point. The width varies from 1 to 2km up to 4 to 5km. Many of the mountains around the fjord are around 1,000 metres high.

    The Sognefjord has been an important transport artery since ancient times. From the innermost arms of the fjord it is a relatively short distance to the inland villages in Eastern Norway.

    The Sognefjord has good herring fishing. In the outer parts of the fjord, salmon has traditionally been fished. There is also some fish farming in the outer parts.

    Årdal Municipality

    Årdal has long been known as a municipality for heavy industry. In 1702, the Årdal Copperworks was established, and there were also sawmills and hydropower plants in this area. In 1948, aluminium production started in Årdal. The aluminium works has been the cornerstone company in Årdal for over 50 years. It was started by the Nazis furing World War II.

    In recent years there has been a lot of investment into tourism and green industries. The municipality has been featured on several television programs in recent years, and the hike in Øvre Årdal has become famous on social media.

    Årdal is still at the forefront of industrial technological development in the fields of aluminium, solar cell production and hydropower.

    Årdal

    Årdalstangen is the main town in Årdal municipality, with a population of around 1,3700. This is largely an industrial town, with a shipping port for the Aluminium company here. There is also a carbon plant, laboratory and administration building for Norsk Hydro here. The old mining office from 1702 is located at the administration building.

    Øvre Årdal

    Village

    Øvre Årdal is a settlement and industrial site. It is where the major aluminium plant is in the region. In Øvre Årdal you’ll also find the famous hiking trail called Tusenmeteren, which was the old road from Øvre Årdal to Valdres constructed in 1937. The train has become increasingly popular on social media because of its incredible views.

    Tindeveien

    Scenic Road

    Tindeveien is the old mountain road between Årdal and Turtagrø. The road is also the main link between the Sognefjord to the Jotunheimen National Park area. The road is only open from May to November due to snow. The road is also part of the shortest land connection between Bergen and Trondheim.

    The road does have a toll booth – payable by credit card. The toll booth is located at the highest point on the road, 1315 metres above sea level.

    Turtagrø

    Mountain Lodge

    Turtagrø is located at 900 metres above sea level and is a popular starting point for many hiking trips. The area has been an important stopping place on the road over the mountain between Lom and Skjolden for a long time. In the 1880s the farmer Ole Berge gave travellers food and shelter, and many Englishmen and pioneers in Nordic mountain sports came to his farm.

    The first hotel was built here in 1888 and helped developed the area as an important meeting place and haunt for mountaineers and hikers. Edvard Grieg also played at the hotel several times. The historic building burned down in 2001 and Ole Berge Draegni, the fourth generation owner, quickly planned a new hotel. It reopened in 2002. Ole Berge Draegni died in the flood disaster in Thailand in 2004. His daughter took over from him.

    The area, known as Hurrungane, is one of Norway’s most alpine areas, with 24 peaks over 2,000 metres above sea level. The peaks have sharp tops and are often separated by glacier formations. Many of the mountains require experienced climbers.

    Nedre Oscarshaug

    Photo Stop

    Nedre Oscarshaug is one of the popular photo stops on the Sognefjellet Tourist Road. Here you can see many of the mountains over the Hurrungane mountain range as well as the valley down to the Sognefjord.

    Sognefjellet

    Tourist Road

    The Sognefjellet Tourist Road is one of Norway’s 18 national tourist roads. It is located on the border between the Innlandet and Vestlandet counties. The mountain crossing has been used for centuries, and it was a popular trade route for bringing grain over from the east to the west.

    From the 19th century onwards, the area developed as a popular place for hikers and climbers, and a number of mountain lodges were established. The first road was completed in 1915, though it has been upgraded since then. Today it is one of the most popular tourist roads. The road is only open in the summer months.

    Innlandet County

    You will cross into Innlandet County, which is a county located in the inner parts of Norway. It has no connection to the sea. 

    Galdbygde

    Village

    Galdbygde is a small village with lodgings for the mountains. It is also where you take the road up to Galdhøpiggen, the highest mountain in Norway. Of course, you can’t drive all the way to the top. This takes you to the start of the hiking trail. 

    Lom Municipality

    You drive into Lom Municipality, which is where our final stop is. 

    Lom

    Welcome to Lom! Lom is a gorgeous village located between three national parks. It is also home to one of Norway’s most impressive stave churches. 

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

    Next Drive

    Lom to Dombås

    Follow our next drive from Lom to Dombås.