Lærdal

  • Årdal, Lærdal, Lom, Road-trips, Scenic Drives, Sognefjord

    Drive it Yourself: Lærdal to Lom via Tindeveien & Sognefjellet

    Drive it Yourself: Lærdal to Lom via Tindeveien & Sognefjellet

    Here’s my self-guided drive for the journey from Lærdal to Lom via the Sognefjellet Tourist Road. In June 2023, Sean and I decided to head out for a weekend in the fjords. Very good weather was forecast, and we didn’t want to miss an opportunity to see this area in the sun! The last time we did Sognefjellet, in September 2020, it was incredibly stormy and we missed all the views. 

    We left Bergen in the afternoon and had a brief break in Lærdal before beginning the journey. I didn’t know what to expect when driving through Årdal to get to Sognefejllet; I had never heard of Tindeveien before and figured it would just be some back road. But wow, was I wrong. Tindeveien was one of the most beautiful roads I have driven on in Norway. Why don’t more people know about it? Well, hopefully I can share it to other people driving in Western Norway.

    Here’s my guide to the very, very scenic drive from Lærdal to Lom via Tindeveien and Sognefjellet. 

    In this article...

    Download this Guide

    All of our guides can be downloaded via our online store. 

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

    Coming soon.

    View on Store

    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Information about facilities along the way

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the region & towns
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Facilities including supermarkets, toilets, petrol, hotels, cafes, restaurants with addresses.

    Lærdal to Lom via Tindeveien & Sognefjellet

    Lærdal Travel Guide

    Lærdal has been a trading place since the Middle Ages and probably took over from the old Viking marketplace Kaupanger. Coastal farmers brought herring and fish and exchanged goods with mountain farmers from Valdres and Hallingdal. The Lærdal Market is first mentioned in written sources in 1596. It eventually ended but restarted in 1982 and is still held every year.

    Lærdal Travel Guide

    Sognefjord

    Fjord

    We are now driving along the Sognefjord, which is the longest and deepest fjord in Norway. It is 205km (approx. 125 mi) long and 1303m deep at its deepest point. The width varies from 1 to 2km up to 4 to 5km. Many of the mountains around the fjord are around 1,000 metres high.

    The Sognefjord has been an important transport artery since ancient times. From the innermost arms of the fjord it is a relatively short distance to the inland villages in Eastern Norway.

    The Sognefjord has good herring fishing. In the outer parts of the fjord, salmon has traditionally been fished. There is also some fish farming in the outer parts.

    Årdal Municipality

    Årdal has long been known as a municipality for heavy industry. In 1702, the Årdal Copperworks was established, and there were also sawmills and hydropower plants in this area. In 1948, aluminium production started in Årdal. The aluminium works has been the cornerstone company in Årdal for over 50 years. It was started by the Nazis furing World War II.

    In recent years there has been a lot of investment into tourism and green industries. The municipality has been featured on several television programs in recent years, and the hike in Øvre Årdal has become famous on social media.

    Årdal is still at the forefront of industrial technological development in the fields of aluminium, solar cell production and hydropower.

    Årdal

    Årdalstangen is the main town in Årdal municipality, with a population of around 1,3700. This is largely an industrial town, with a shipping port for the Aluminium company here. There is also a carbon plant, laboratory and administration building for Norsk Hydro here. The old mining office from 1702 is located at the administration building.

    Årdal Travel Guide

    Øvre Årdal

    Village

    Øvre Årdal is a settlement and industrial site. It is where the major aluminium plant is in the region. In Øvre Årdal you’ll also find the famous hiking trail called Tusenmeteren, which was the old road from Øvre Årdal to Valdres constructed in 1937. The train has become increasingly popular on social media because of its incredible views.

    Tindeveien

    Scenic Road

    Tindeveien is the old mountain road between Årdal and Turtagrø. The road is also the main link between the Sognefjord to the Jotunheimen National Park area. The road is only open from May to November due to snow. The road is also part of the shortest land connection between Bergen and Trondheim.

    The road does have a toll booth – payable by credit card. The toll booth is located at the highest point on the road, 1315 metres above sea level.

    Turtagrø

    Mountain Lodge

    Turtagrø is located at 900 metres above sea level and is a popular starting point for many hiking trips. The area has been an important stopping place on the road over the mountain between Lom and Skjolden for a long time. In the 1880s the farmer Ole Berge gave travellers food and shelter, and many Englishmen and pioneers in Nordic mountain sports came to his farm.

    The first hotel was built here in 1888 and helped developed the area as an important meeting place and haunt for mountaineers and hikers. Edvard Grieg also played at the hotel several times. The historic building burned down in 2001 and Ole Berge Draegni, the fourth generation owner, quickly planned a new hotel. It reopened in 2002. Ole Berge Draegni died in the flood disaster in Thailand in 2004. His daughter took over from him.

    The area, known as Hurrungane, is one of Norway’s most alpine areas, with 24 peaks over 2,000 metres above sea level. The peaks have sharp tops and are often separated by glacier formations. Many of the mountains require experienced climbers.

    Nedre Oscarshaug

    Photo Stop

    Nedre Oscarshaug is one of the popular photo stops on the Sognefjellet Tourist Road. Here you can see many of the mountains over the Hurrungane mountain range as well as the valley down to the Sognefjord.

    Sognefjellet

    Tourist Road

    The Sognefjellet Tourist Road is one of Norway’s 18 national tourist roads. It is located on the border between the Innlandet and Vestlandet counties. The mountain crossing has been used for centuries, and it was a popular trade route for bringing grain over from the east to the west.

    From the 19th century onwards, the area developed as a popular place for hikers and climbers, and a number of mountain lodges were established. The first road was completed in 1915, though it has been upgraded since then. Today it is one of the most popular tourist roads. The road is only open in the summer months.

    Innlandet County

    You will cross into Innlandet County, which is a county located in the inner parts of Norway. It has no connection to the sea. 

    Galdbygde

    Village

    Galdbygde is a small village with lodgings for the mountains. It is also where you take the road up to Galdhøpiggen, the highest mountain in Norway. Of course, you can’t drive all the way to the top. This takes you to the start of the hiking trail. 

    Lom Municipality

    You drive into Lom Municipality, which is where our final stop is. 

    Lom

    Welcome to Lom! Lom is a gorgeous village located between three national parks. It is also home to one of Norway’s most impressive stave churches. 

    Lom Travel Guide

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

    Next Drive

    Lom to Dombås

    Follow our next drive from Lom to Dombås. 

    Lom to Dombås
  • Aurland, Bergen, European Highways, Fagernes, Flåm, Hønefoss, Lærdal, Norway, Oslo, Road-trips, Vang, Voss

    Drive it Yourself: Oslo to Bergen on the E16

    Drive it Yourself: Oslo to Bergen on the E16

    The E16 between Oslo and Bergen follows the historic road between east and west Norway that has existed for thousands of years. Over the centuries the road has gradually been modernised, but traces of the past remain.

    While the E16 is the longer way between the two cities, the road is lined with historic monuments, including stave churches, runestones, and lodgings. It makes for a great, scenic road-trip!

    Here’s our guide to the E16 highway. 

    In this article...

    Download this Guide

    All of our guides can be downloaded via our online store. 

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

    View on Store

    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Information about facilities along the way

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the region & towns
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Facilities including supermarkets, toilets, petrol, hotels, cafes, restaurants with addresses.

    The Drive: Oslo to Bergen on the E16

    This drive begins in Oslo. 

    Oslo Travel Guide

    Read more about Oslo, Norway’s capital, on our dedicated travel guide page. Click the button below. 

    Oslo Travel Guide

    Sandvika

    Neighbourhood

    The first neighbourhood you drive through is called Sandvika. While it is technically part of Oslo city, it is in many ways regarded as its own community. The population is approximately 130,000.

    Claude Monet visited the city in 1895. During his visit, he painted the city. Perhaps the most famous work from this visit is “Sandviken Village in Snow”, which shows the Løkka Bridge in the foreground with the hill Kolsås in the background. The bridge still stands today.

    The area of Sandvika has existed since for thousands of years. The Sandvik grounds were rich fishing grounds that provided an important supplement to the farms in Sandvika.

    Sandvika is home to Scandinavia’s largest super mall – the Sandvika Storsenter – with 190 stores and a total area of 60,000 square metres or 650,000 square feet.

    Hole Municipality

    The municipality of Hole is situated around the Tyrifjord, where the soil is fertile and suited to growing fruit, berries, and other agricultural products. The coat-of-arms depicts the four Norwegian Kings who lived in the municipality in the 9th to 11th centuries. The most famous of the four is St. Olav (Olav Haraldsson), though Harald Hårdrade is a close second for fame – he was the one credited with ending the Viking Age at the Battle of Stamford Bridge in 1066. The other three kings are Halvdan Svarte (820-860), Sigurd Syr (-1018), and Harald Hardråde (1015-1066). Harald Hardråde is the king who lost at the Battle of Stamford Bridge in 1066, which is considered to be the event when the Viking Age ended.

    Hole is important in Norwegian history. Archaeological finds from the Roman and Migration periods are numerous, and Hole is known as one of the traditional landscapes from the Viking Age and plays a prominent role in the Norse sagas.

    Stein Church Ruins (Stein Kirkeruin) are located at Steinsfjorden. The church was constructed in the latter half of the 1100s. By the second half of the 1500s, the chapel was no longer in use. There are some historic churches in the area: Bønsnes Church is a medieval church from 1100 and Hole Church is probably from 1200.

    Utøya

    Memorial

    As you drive along the Tyrifjord, down on your left is the island Utøya. This was the site of the terrorist attack that happened in Norway in 2011. It is possible to take a detour down to the memorial site. On GPS it is marked as “Minnesmerke Utøya”.

    Tyrifjord

    Lake

    The Tyrifjord is a lake (not a fjord like the name suggests). It is the fifth largest large in Norway with an area of 139km2 and a maximum depth of 295m. It is one of Norway’s most species-rich lakes. The lake used to be part of the sea, but as the land has risen it has become landlocked. In the fjord, free fishing without a licence is accepted based on tradition and custom. Brown trout is caught in the lake, though crayfish is also popular. 

    Sundvollen

    Village

    Sundvollen is a village located along the eastern part of the Tyrifjord. The name comes from the name of a farm that used to be here. Sundvollen is most noted for its hotels. Sundvolden Hotel is one of Norway’s oldest hotels – it was mentioned in written sources dating from 1648. Kleivstua Hotel was a coaching inn in 1780 which catered to travellers going between Christiania (Oslo) and Ringerike. It is on the Old Royal Bergen Road, the historic road between Oslo and Hadeland. The road is also part of the Old Pilgrims Route from Oslo to Trondheim. Understandably, there were many travellers coming through here. They would stop at one of the hotels for food, accommodations, and to give their horses a rest. Unfortunately both of the hotels have been renovated extensively, so there’s no trace of the original lodgings. 

    Petroglyphs from the Bronze Age have been found approximately 100m from the E16 and show ship figures, circuit figures and bowl pits. 

    In Sundvollen you can hike to “Kongens Utsikt”, a scenic viewpoint overlooking the Tyrifjord. 

    Norderhov Church

    Historic Church

    Norderhov Church is a medieval church that was built in 1170. The church is built in local sandstone and limestone in a Romanesque style of architecture. The church was built on a former pagan court for the god Njord, and that’s where the name Norderhob comes from. The church was historically the most important church in Ringerike. 

    Across the road from the church is Norderhov’s old rectory, which is now the Ringerike Museum. The museum has runestones and its collection of the private belongings of Jørgen Engebretsen Moe, a Norwegian author most famous for ‘Norske Folkeeventyr”, a collection of Nowegian folk tales which he edited in collaboration with Peter Christen Asbjørnsen. 

    The church and vicarage are known for their close association with the vicar’s wife Anna Colbjørnsdatter (1667-1736), who legend says tricked the Swedes by getting the Colonel drunk. This gave the far smaller Norwegian-Danish force an opportunity to inflict a defeat on the Swedes. This was in connection with the Battle of Norderhov in 1716. She then received heroine status and is one of the very few female heroes in Norwegian history. She was married to historian and parish priest Jonas Ramus and they are in the crypt under the church. Her portrait can be seen inside the church. The pulpit is from 1582 and is considered one of Norway’s oldest preserved pulpits. 

    Hønefoss Travel Guide

    You don’t drive through Hønefoss on the E16; it is approximately a five-minute drive into the town. However, this is the first major town that you pass on the drive, so it can be a useful rest stop. 

    Hønefoss is regarded as the centre of Ringerike. The town is located by a waterfall and is founded on the sawmill business that arose from the waterfall in the 17th century. Hønefoss is home to several factories and other industry, with Norske Skog Follum, a timber company, having its headquarters here. Dating from 1873, Norske Skog Follum was one of the largest producers of newsprint in Europe until it closed in 2012. 

    HØNEFOSS Travel Guide

    Follum

    Village

    Follum is a small village after Hønefoss on the western side of the Ådal River. It is on the old road that led to the Ådal Valley. The name comes from the oldest farm in the area. 

    Ådal Valley

    Valley

    You are now driving through the Ådal Valley. 

    The first church built in Ådal was a stave church built during the 15th century. It is mentioned in the Diplomatarium Norvegicum in 1462. The church was eventually removed to make way for a larger, more modern church. 

    Viker Church is located on the western shore of the Sperillen Lake and is from 1702. The pulpit, altar and crucifers from the old stave church are inside Viker Church. 

    Valdres Natur og Kulturpark

    Preserve

    You are now entering the traditional district of Valdres, which is situated between the Gudbrandsdal and Hallingdal valleys. The river Begna runs through the municipality. 

    The traditional Valdres region is located approximately halfway between Oslo and Bergen. The valley has the Jotunheimen mountains to the west and the north. Historically, Valdres has been an agricultural economy, but tourism is becoming more important – especially for skiing. 

    Sør-Aurdal Municipality

    The name comes from the valley in which it is located. The coat-of-arms represents a medieval reliquary that is based on the one found at Hedal Stave Church. It has two dragons heads in the design since Sør-Aurdal is one of only two municipalities in Norway that have two stave churches that are still in use. The colour blue represents the two river systems that have historically been important for the logging industry and sawmills. 

    Olav Haraldsson, later St. Olav, travelled through Valdres in 1023 and visited Reinli. At the time, there was a pagan temple at the same location where the stave church stands. 

    One of the highlights of the municipality is Hedalen Stave Church was built in 1160 but rebuilt in 1699. An old legend says that the valley was abandoned during the Black Death and the church was discovered by a bear hunter. A hide is hanging in the church, although there is only a small part of it left as visitors have cut away pieces over the years. We will pass the turnoff for it a little later. 

    Bagn
    Village

    Bagn is the administrative centre of Sør-Aurdal. This area saw extensive fighting during World War II as advancing German forces were stopped in Bagn. The battles in the valley were extensive. 

    In Bagn you can find the Bagn Bygdesamling, a small museum that includes farmhouses, a sawmill, a flour mill, and other buildings. The museum is on a preserved farm. Next to Bagn Church is an intact shop from 1881, which may have been the largest business in Valdres. The shop is open during the summer holidays and before Christmas. 

    Bagn Church is the main church in the valley and seats 350 people. The earliest church in the area was mentioned in 1327, but the church was not new that year. The first church was likely a wooden stave church from the 13th century. The old church was closed in 1683 and for some time the locals had to use Reinli Stave Church. The church that we see today is the second church and dates to 1736. 

    Nord-Aurdal Municipality

    The coat-of-arms for Nord-Aurdal depicts three blue flowers called ‘Snow Gentian’. The flowers are locally known as ‘the blue eyes of Christ’ and grow all over Norway but grow abundantly in this area. They represent the three main settlements of the municipality: Aurdal, Fagernes, and Leira. This is a fairly mountainous municipality. The highest point is 1,325m (4,347ft) high and about 50% of the land is above 900m (3000ft).

    Aurdal
    Village

    Aurdal is a small village with a population of around 647. The village is known for its winter sports activities and is in Valdres’ Alpine Centre. There are several places to stay and eat. There used to be a railway here – the Valdresbanen – but it stopped in 1888. 

    Just after Aurdal is the Noraker Gård. This farm is currently being run by the 12th century. Rakfisk is a highly desirable food from this farm, and in 2022 they won the expert jury award at the Norwegian Rakfisk Festival. In 2006, Rakfisk from Valdres was approved as a protected geographical indication. This means that only fish hatched, reared, and processed in Valdres can be sold under the Rakfisk fra Valdres brand. 

    They have a farm shop that also sells trout, mustard, beer, moose, goat, and art. 

    Rakfisk is a dish made from trout or char where it is salted and autolyzed for two or three months. It is then eaten without cooking and has a strong smell and pungen salty flavour. After the fish is gutted and rinsed, it is placed in a bucket and salt. It is then placed under pressure with a lid that fits down into the bucket and a weight on top. A brine is formed as the salt draws moisture from the fish. The rakfisk bucket is stored at under 5 degreesC for one to three months. The finished product doesn’t need cooking. 

    Fagernes

    Fagernes is a major hub along the E16.

    The word ‘Fagernes’ is a combination of ‘fager’ (beautiful) and ‘nes’ (headland). The town was established in 1857, when the first trading operations started. The first hotel started operations in 1875, and from 1906 there was a train line (it has since closed). 

    If you are travelling in November, you may be in town for the Norwegian Rakfisk Festival, which takes place in the first week of the month. 

    In Fagernes is the Valdres Folkmuseum, a well-known museum that shows the culture of the Valdres region. It is both an indoor and outdoor museum. 

    Fagernes Travel Guide

    Ulnes Church

    Historic Church

    Ulnes Church is a beautiful church that you’ll pass shortly after leaving Fagernes. The earliest records of the church go back to 1307, but it was not new that year. Estimates say that the church was built around the year 1265 as its architecture reflects the transition between Romanesque and Gothic architecture. 

    In 1675, there were plans to replace it with a new wooden church as it was decaying, but thankfully that didn’t happen. Around 1720, the church was put out of use. It was described in 1733 by a bishop as “a pile of stones” with only the choir being suitable to keep. The church was restored in 1737, with the nave being demolished and rebuilt. The interior was also refurbished. 

    Vestre Slidre Municipality

    The next municipality is Vestre Slidre. The municipality is partly named after the historic Slidre Church, which you’ll see soon. The coat-of-arms are based on a heraldic decoration found in the Slidredomen church that dates to 1170. The design was originally part of a seal that belonged to a medieval nobleman in the area. The meaning of the design is unknown. 

    Vestre Slidre is mentioned in the Old Norse sagas. Harald Fairhair, who became the first King of Norway (872-930), did some conquests over petty kingdoms. One of the encounters that led to the overall conquest was with Skallagrim Kveldulvssøn in Vestre Slidre. Also, in 1023, King Olav Haraldsson came to the area to Christianise the people. The locals were caught unaware, and Olav took all their boats. They would only get them back if they accepted Christianity, which they did. 

    Lastly, in 2000 Sami gamme huts (a simple form of a hut) were found in the municipality. This is the southernmost discovery of Sami settlements.

    Slidre

    Village

    Slidre is the next village on the E16. It has a population of around 337. 

    In Slidre you can see the Vestre Slidre Church (Slidredomen), a historic stone church from around 1170. The church is built in the Romanesque style of architecture and the stone walls are approximately 160cm (63 inches) thick. 

    The church is unique in that it doesn’t have a west portal. Instead, the main entrance is from the south.

    The furniture is from the 18th century, while there are frescoes from the 15th century. The choir has a painted wooden vault from the 14th century, which depicts Jesus Christ in the mandorla centrally in the middle. On the north wall, a medieval coat-of-arms has been uncovered and is used as Vestre Slidre’s coat-of-arms. 

    The area here is very old. Above the village of Slidre is an ancient burial ground called the ‘Gardberg Site’. Here you can see the Einangsteinen runestone. It is believed to be from the 4th century and is considered the oldest runestone in the Nordics that is standing in its original place. The name Einang comes from a nearby farm. 

    Lomen Stave Church

    Lomen Stave Church is from around the year 1192. The church is a pillar stave church, meaning the main room has four supporting stave beams. The style and decoration of the church is part of the “Valdres-Sogn” stave churches. This groups many of the churches from Valdres Valley and around the Sognefjord that have the same features. Considering the old King’s Road used to run through the valley to Sogn, they likely shared design tips.

    Like all stave churches, Lomen Stave Chuch has fallen victim to modernisation and renovation. The choir is from a major renovation in the 1750s. During this time, the walls were also expanded to make the main room larger.

    During the last refurbishment, archaeological excavations uncovered 71 artefacts, including jewellery and coins. The oldest coin found here is from King Sverre’s time, 1177-1202.

    Today the church, neighbouring bell tower and cemetery are under protection. Many original features of the church remain, despite major renovations. The most illustrative are the portals, which have decorations of dragons, vines, and animal heads. Some of the portals have moved around the church, but they do date back to medieval times. These kinds of decorations are common on Valdres-Sogn stave churches. The roof and wall timbers are also original.

    Lomen Stave Church

    Vang Municipality

    Vang is a small municipality in the traditional Valdres region. The name comes from an old farm, though vang comes from the Old Norse word vangr meaning ‘field’ or ‘meadow’. The coat-of-arms are rather special – they are based on historic descriptions and depictions of the personal arms of a local medieval nobleman called Sigvat of Leirhol. He was named as one of the members of the delegation that followed King Håkon V Magnusson to Copenhagen in 1309. He then became the governor of Valdres. His coat-of-arms can also be seen on Vang Church. 

    The municipality was originally populated by migrants from Western Norway. 

    The ancient Vang Church was the site of a legal court held by King Håkon VI in 1368. 

    Høre Stave Church

    Høre Stave Church is one of the stave churches with an insight into the fascinating past of Norway. Especially around and shortly after the time of the Civil War in the 12th and early 13th century. We know that the Christianisation of Valdres wasn’t easy. St. Olav, then King Olav, came from the west through the valley. He held farmers hostage and burnt down farms until they agreed to convert. According to the Sagas, Olav had churches built and clergymen appointed. None of these churches remains, but many of the stave churches are on the same spot, including Høre Stave Church.

    In medieval times, Valdres had many churches. There were at least 21 of them; 18 of which were stave churches. To compare, the neighbouring valley Hallingdal had 8 stave churches. Sadly very few remain today. 

    Judging from the rune inscriptions found inside the church and dating the timber, Høre Stave Church is from around 1179. It was originally a pillar church, with four corner staves. Under the church are graves, some of them children. It wasn’t allowed but common to bury children under stave churches. As they had not been baptised yet, the parents worried the children would not be accepted into heaven. Some foetuses were also found under the church. There is evidence of ceremonial burials under the church, likely from pre-Christian times.

    The original stave church somewhat exists today; all that remains is its skeleton. The skeleton is hidden by the cladding. The ship is still the original size, giving a sign of the original size of the church room.

    Høre Stave Church

    Vang i Valdres

    The word ‘vang’ comes from an old farm that stood here; this farm is also where the first church stood. Vang, like the rest of the Valdres Valley, was populated by migrants from Western Norway. People have lived in this valley (Vangr means meadow or field) for thousands of years. This is likely due to its proximity between east and west Norway. Vang is by a lake just before the mountain pass to Western Norway and thus made for a good rest stop.

    Vang became the site of a legal court (ting in Norwegian), and the ancient stave church was next to the site. The site was famously used by King Haakon VI in 1368 when he was settling a boundary dispute.

    Vang also became part of the ancient royal road between Bergen and Oslo. In the 16th century, it was the postal road, and from the 18th century, it was Kongevegen. Kongevegen was the first road for horse and cart between East and West, and I’ve covered it on my page for the E16. Today, the highway follows the same path as Kongevegen. Still, the town and nearby area became a place where travellers would seek refuge at some point on their journey. 

    The Vang Stone is clearly marked and is by the E16. Parking is available across the street. 

    The Vang Stone

    Øye Stave Church

    Øye Stave Church is one of the smallest and oldest stave churches in Norway. It is likely from some time during the second half of the 12th century. The church is first mentioned in written documents in 1347. It stood by the old traffic road over Filefjell, which was the first road between Bergen and Oslo.

    Øye Stave Church

    Kongevegen

    Historic Road

    As you may have noticed by now, there are a number of churches and important historic sites along the E16. This is because the E16 follows one of the ancient crossings between east and west Norway. It is called ‘Kongevegen’ (The Kings Road). The road is ancient and is believed to have been the first way between east and west. The first postal road was laid here in 1647, and the road received official status in 1791. 

    Ever since people have lived in Norway has this been the most useful route between east and east. A number of tracks show traffic throughout the Stone Age and Bronze Age. The road was also important in the Christianisation of Norway, as is evident in the large number of churches along the road. Many ancient farms here also became inns for travellers, and some survive today. In the Middle Ages, the road was known as the most difficult and dangerous in the country. As many Danish public servants were travelling between Bergen and Christiania (Oslo), it was decided to modernize the road in the 17th century. The road was built as straight as possible and became known as the Royal Postal Road. Most of the trip was done on foot. 

    In the 18th century, travelling with horse and carriage became more common, so it was decided to modernise the road again. In 1791, the official road was completed and Kongevegen became the first carriage road between east and west Norway. The road was built by hand. Today the E16 skips many of the most difficult parts with tunnels, but parts of the old road remain and are now a popular hiking trail. In 2017, Kongevegen was awarded the EU’s most important cultural heritage award, Europa Nostra. 

    It is possible to spend the night in one of the many lodges over the mountains and do short or long hikes. 

    Tyinkrysset

    Village

    Tyinkrysset is a village located in the Filefjell mountains, which is where the historic crossing between east and west Norway was. The village sits at an elevation of around 900 metres (3,000 feet). This area is popular with hikers. You’ll find some hotels up in the area. 

    Filefjellet Mountains

    Mountains

    You are now crossing the Filefjellet mountain range across to Western Norway. It has been an important crossing path between east and west Norway since ancient times. The highest peaks are 1013m above sea level. 

    The E16 follows a lot of the same path as the old road. 

    Lærdal Municipality

    Lærdal is the first municipality in Vestland county. Lærdal has a dry climate, with 420mm – 600mm of rainfall annually in the inhabited areas. Through the valley runs the Lærdalselvi, or the Laerdal River, known as the ‘Queen of the Salmon Rivers’. It is one of the country’s most famous large salmon rivers. The valleys have opportunities for hunting deer, reindeer, and elk. The valley was inhabited and used by humans as far back as 6,000 years ago. In places, the vally has been used since the Early Stone Age. In the mountains are the first traces of people in the mountain areas of Norway.

    Lærdal has always been the main road between east and west Norway. The area where the village Lærdalsøyri is developed as a marketplace in the Middle Ages. Coastal farmers brought herring and fish and exchanged goods with mountain farmers from Valdres. At least five generations of road structure remain in the Lærdal valley, which proves the valleys important function as a hub. Lærdal has a long tradition with agriculture. The lower part of the valley has one of the country’s best climatic conditions for growing vegetables. Early production of potatoes and vegetables is important. 

    Borlaug

    Village

    The next village is Borlaug. This is where the E16 joins with Highway 52, which runs over the Hemsedal mountains (it’s an alternative way between Oslo and Bergen). You’ll pass some old farmhouses on the right as you drive through the village. 

    Borgund

    Village

    Borgund is a mountain village. It has been an important spot on the journey between east and west Norway for hundreds of years. There are several farms in the village and agriculture is the main industry here. 

    Borgund Stave Church

    Borgund Stave Church is the most famous of Norway’s 28 remaining stave churches. The exact age of Borgund Stave Church is unknown. It is possibly as old as 1150 when looking at the timber. However, the church is generally regarded as being from around the year 1200. It is dedicated to the apostle Andrew.

    The church is fascinating; a visit to it should not be missed. The church is open in the summer for tourists for a small fee. Check their website for more information. 

    Borgund Stave Church

    Lærdal

    You will bypass the village of Lærdal on the E16, but it’s a worthwhile detour to drive into the village. Lærdal is a historic trading place on the old postal route between Oslo and Bergen. It was where the travellers would leave their horses behind and take boats the rest of the way to Bergen. Lærdal is also a fantastic place for trying the foods from the Sognefjord region, including potatoes, berries, and cider. 

    You can read about Lærdal on our dedicated travel guide page. 

    Lærdal Travel Guide

    Aurlandsfjellet Tourist Road

    In the summer months, it’s possible to take the Aurlandsfjellet Tourist Road across to Aurland instead of going through the tunnel. 

    Aurlandsfjellet Tourist Road

    Lærdal Tunnel

    Tunnel

    Welcome to the world’s longest road tunnel! The Lærdal Tunnel is 24.5km (15.2 miles) long. The tunnel was constructed between 1995 and 2000 and cost $113 million USD. The tunnel does not have emergency exits; there are emergency phones every 250 metres as well as 15 turning areas for buses and semi-trailers. There are rooms in the tunnel with food and supplies in case anyone gets stuck in there. The tunnel has high air quality through ventilation and purification. 

    It incorporates features to help manage the mental strain on drivers. Every 6km there is a cave to separate sections of the road. The lighting varies throughout the tunnel and caves to break the routine.

    Aurland Municipality

    Aurland municipality is perhaps one of the most visited municipalities in Norway. After all, it is home to the famous Flåm village as well as the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Nærøyfjord. The main industry in Aurland is agriculture, with goats’ cheese being an important product from here. Tourism is also a major industry. 

    Aurland

    It is worth driving into the village of Aurland. In many ways, it is more charming than Flåm. Aurland is home to Vangen Church, a historic stone church from 1202. The fact that it is built in stone and not wood signifies that the area must’ve been of importance around the time it was built. Aurland is also home to the Aurland Shoe Factory, where the pennyloafer was invented.

    Aurland Travel Guide

    Flåm

    Located at the end of the Aurlandfjord, a branch of the Sognefjord, Flåm is a gorgeous little village. Many people come to Flåm to do the Flåm Railway, regarded as the most beautiful train journey in the world. This train journey goes from Flåm through the valley and up the mountains to Myrdal, located close to the Hardangervidda National park. Myrdal is also where you board the train to Bergen or Oslo. Besides the train ride, there’s a gorgeous ferry journey from Flåm to Gudvangen. It takes you on the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Nærøyfjord – something you shouldn’t miss.

    Flåm has a population of 350, though on a summer day there will be several thousand people in the village. Seriously. The Flåm Railway has become incredibly popular – it’s sold out months in advance. Additionally, Flåm is becoming a major cruise port.

    Flåm Travel Guide

    Gudvangen

    Village

    Gudvangen is a small village with a population of around 120. It is a popular tourist destination due to its proximity at the end of the Nærøyfjord. The popular Gudvangen – Flåm cruise stops here, and many people also come to visit the Viking Village in Gudvangen. The Viking Village is a recreated village as Gudvangen is believed to have been an important trading place for the Vikings. 

    It is worth driving into Gudvangen (approx 5 mins off the E16) and stopping in front of the Nærøyfjord. The Nærøyfjord is the narrowest branch of the Sognefjord, only 250 metres at its narrowest and 12 metres at its shallowest. The fjord is 20km long. It is UNESCO World Heritage-listed as it is one of the best representations of what a fjord looks like.

    Stalheim Hotel & Stalheimskleiva

    Historic Hotel

    The site where the hotel is has been an important place for hundreds of years. When the Royal Postal Road between Oslo and Bergen was established in the 17th century, this hotel was where the postal workers would stop to rest. 

    The hotel as it is known today opened in 1885 with 10 rooms. The hotel burned down in 1900, 1902 and 1959. The current hotel building you see today is from after the 1959 fire. Today the hotel is a high-end historic hotel where many famous people have stayed. It also has arguably one of the best views of any hotel in Norway, but good luck trying to see it. They don’t allow visitors to come in and take pictures without paying or having coffee. 

    Stalheimskleiva is a 1.5km (1 mile) stretch of road that leads from Stalheim Hotel down to sea level towards the Nærøyfjord. It was one of the country’s first roads built according to the new road engineering requirements that came around 1850, the so-called chaussee, with a maximum gradient of 1:20. Around 1,000 men built the road over 7 years. The road was a motorway for cars going in both directions, which was of course dangerous. It was eventually replaced with the two tunnels you’ll be driving through. The road then became a one-way tourist road, however in 2020 part of the road was in danger of collapsing due to landslide. In 2021, the road closed for all motor vehicles for the foreseeable future. This is due to the poor condition of the road and the extensive damage done by traffic. The road is on the conservation plan, so it’s being repaired and may become a hiking trail instead. 

    Across from the Stalheim Hotel is an open-air museum with farmhouses collected from the area. There are also a number of hiking trails starting from around the hotel, so it could be a good option for spending the night. 

    Voss Municipality

    Voss municipality is an inland municipality with about 90% of the area mountains over 300m (1000ft) above sea level. Because of that, the municipality is a popular place for people from Bergen to go skiing. Voss is home to the largest ski resorts in Western Norway. The area has been settled for at least 3,000 years, with people coming here for the rich valleys, waters, and animal life. Voss was also largely an isolated municipality, meaning it has kept its own unique culture and traditions. 

    Oppheim Lake

    Lake

    After leaving Gudvangen, you will drive up the Nærøy Valley. This is part of the UNESCO World Heritage area. The stone they are mining here is anorthosite, a rare stone found in large amounts in this valley. The stone is typically used on the roads because it is reflective. 

    The drive through the valley is short; you will then take two tunnels to get up the mountain. However, before you get into the tunnels, you will see a red hotel and a hairpin-turn road on the hillside. 

    As you drive along the lake, you’ll drive through the village of Oppheim and past the Oppheim Church. 

    Vinje

    Village

    Vinje is a small village located at the junction of the E16 and the Rv13, which runs over the Vikafjellet mountains to Vik by the Sognefjord. This is a long but beautiful detour; the road does close in winter, though. In Vik you’ll find the Hopperstad Stave Church (one of Norway’s 28 remaining stave churches) as well as some other historic buildings. 

    Tvindefossen

    Waterfall

    It is worth stopping and taking some photos of Tvindefossen Waterfall. It will be clearly marked with signs as you approach it. The waterfall is 152m high and has two streams (tvinde=twin). In the late 1990s, the waterfall acquired a reputation for having special powers of reviving sexual potency, so it became common to see visitors from the U.S., Japan and Russia visiting and filling containers with water. 

    Voss

    If you are following the E16, you will take a bypass and not see Voss at all. It is possible to drive into Voss, park by the lake, and see some of the town. 

    Voss has a population of around 14,000 people. The town is known for its cultural traditions in folk music, art, handicrafts, and traditional foods. Voss sits on the shore of the lake Vangsvatnet.

    During World War II, the town was bombed by the Luftwaffe and almost all the buildings were destroyed. 

    In Voss it’s worth visiting Voss Church. According to legend, the people of Voss was forced to convert to Christianity by King Olav (later Saint Olav). A stone cross can be seen by the lake which is believed to have been erected by St. Olav himself. The church was built in 1277 and is one of the only buildings to survive World War II. 

    In Voss you can do the Voss gondola to the top of the mountain, where the open-air museum is. 

    Voss Travel Guide

    Evanger

    Village

    Evanger has a well-preserved village centre that is believed to be one of the better-preserved villages in the area. Most of the wooden houses are from the late 19th/early 20th centuries. Evanger is known for its production of cured meat because the village is home to several companies that specialise in the production of traditional meats such as pinnekjøtt (dried, salted rib of lamb), cured lamb, and sausages. 

    Bolstadøyri

    Village

    Bolstadøyri is located at the end of the fjord. When the old postal road came through here, this is the point where the workers would leave their horses and take a boat to Bergen. This has always been an important meeting place for the courts as well as a trading post. 

    Vaksdal Municipality

    Vaksdal is a small industrial municipality in Western Norway. The coat-of-arms show three black shuttles for weaving. The shuttles were chosen to represent the textile industry of the municipality. The municipality is located alongside the fjord and is also very mountainous. 

    Dale

    Village

    Dale is a small industrial village with a population of around 1,100. The village was built around the Dale power planet and factory that were founded and constructed in the 1870s. The machines were brought over by boat from England – carding machines, spinning machines and 200 looms, as well as finishing and dyeing machines. When the factory was built, there was only a homestead here. However, by the end of the 19th century the factory had 500 employees and the village had 1,000 inhabitants. At its peak in the 1950s and 1960s, Dale had a population of 4,000. 

    Dale is where the Dale of Norway company is based. This is arguably Norway’s most famous textiles company. They make the sweaters for the Norwegian Olympics Team and are known for their classic patterns. There is an outlet store in Dale, if you wish to visit that. 

    Osterøy

    Island

    Soon you will reach the wider part of the Osterfjord, which you will follow for the journey into Bergen. Across the fjord is an island called Osterøy. Osterøy is the largest inland island in Norway at around 330km2. Around 8,000 people live on the island and it is largely an agricultural island. You’ll see the bridge to the island soon.

    Vaksdal

    Village

    Vaksdal is a small village located on the fjord. Like Dale, it is an industrial town. In the late 19th century, the Vaksdal Mølle (Mill) opened here, utilising the hydropower in the region. This is where flour would be made. At the time it was built, it was the largest mill in Northern Europe. 

    Bergen Municipality

    Welcome to Bergen! We are now on the outskirts of Bergen municipality. 

    Trengereid

    Village

    Trengereid is the next village you will pass on your way into Bergen. Like the other villages along the fjord, Trengereid was established in the late 19th century around a factory. The factory (Trengereid Fabrikker) specialised in ribbon and lace production. 

    In Trengereid you will see the round-a-bout that leads off to the Hardangerfjord and Hardanger Tourist Road. However, you have been driving from Oslo, so probably save that for a separate road-trip. 

    Arna

    Village

    Arna is one of Bergen’s eight districts and was incorporated into the city in 1972. Around 14,000 people live in Arna and are connected to the city centre of Bergen by the railway. The train between Bergen and Arna takes only 10 minutes as it cuts through the mountain Ulriken; the road follows the coastline and takes 30 minutes to get to the same place. 

    Bergen

    Welcome to Bergen! Bergen is Norway’s second-largest city and is regarded as the Capital of the Fjords. 

    Bergen Travel Guide

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Aurland, Flåm, Hallingdal, Hønefoss, Lærdal, National Highways, Oslo, Road-trips

    Drive it Yourself: Oslo to Aurland via Hemsedal & Borgund Stave Church

    Drive it Yourself: Oslo to Aurland via Hemsedal & Borgund Stave Church

    There are many different ways to get between Oslo & Aurland, but this one is arguably the quickest. It doesn’t follow the one major highway the entire way, so it’s also a good way to mix it up a little. While the scenery might not be as dramatic as the other ways to get to the west from Oslo, it is an easy drive with some interesting places to stop along the way. 

    In this article...

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    The drive: E6 between Oslo and Aurland

    Oslo

    This drive begins in Norway’s capital, Oslo. You can find a detailed guide to Oslo on the travel guide section of the page below. 

    Oslo Travel Guide

    Hole Municipality

    The municipality is located around the woodland of Oslo as well as the Tyrifjord (which is a lake). The soil is very fertile here and is suited to growing fruit, berries, and other agricultural products.

    The coat-of-arms show four gold crowns to symbolise the four Norwegian Kings who lived in the municipality: King Halfdan the Black, King Sigurd Syr, King Olav Haraldsson (St. Olav) and King Harald Hårdråde. As you can imagine, this is a very historic area. There are archaeological finds from the Roman and Migration periods, and it is known as one of the traditional landscapes in the Viking Age and plays a prominent role in the Norse sagas.

    There are a few historic churches in the area. Stein Church, now in ruins, was constructed in the latter half of the 1100s. Bønsnes Church is a medieval church from 1100 and is still standing today. Hole church is from around 1200 and sits on a hill overlooking the Tyrifjord.

    Hole is part of the traditional region of Ringerike. Ringerike is associated with the most notable kings in Norwegian history. It has also given its name to a style of animal art, first discovered on runestones in Ringerike.

    Tyrifjord

    Lake

    Tyrifjorden is a lake in the traditional region of Ringerike. It is Norway’s fifth largest lake. It Is around 26km long and has an average depth of 93 metres. It used to be part of the sea, and there are many finds from that time. It is one of the reasons it was popularly settled around by the Vikings.

    The lake is one of the country’s richest lakes in terms of species. Several areas directly adjacent to the fjord have conservation value due to their unique flora and fauna. The slopes and flats around the lake are fertile and the mild climate means that intensive agriculture is carried out around the lake.

    Free fishing without a licence is based on tradition and custom. The Tyrifjorden has brown trout, crayfish, and pike. The crayfish population is the largest in Norway. Perch can also be caught here. The lake is also used as drinking water for the surrounding areas.

    It is not a fjord by English definitions. Norwegians commonly use the word ‘fjord’ to mean any body of water; many lakes are known as fjords in Norway.

    Sundvollen

    Village

    Sundvollen is a small village located along the Tyrifjorden. Sundvollen is known for its hotels; Sundvolden hotel is one of Norway’s oldest hotels. It was first mentioned in written sources in 1648. Another hotel, Kleivstua Hotel, is an inn that catered to travellers along the Old Royal Bergen Road, the historic road between east and west. The road also formed the pilgrim’s road between Oslo and Trondheim.

    Ringerike Municipality

    Ringerike is a historic region with some of Norway’s earliest kings coming from here. It is believed that the first kingdoms of Norway settled around the Tyrifjorden, hence the name Ringerike (The Old Norse name was Hringariki; hringr means ‘ring’ and riki means ‘kingdom). The first permanent settlements were here between 3000 and 2000 BC.

     Ringerike is one of the medium-sized urban municipalities in Norway and is the largest forestry industry municipality in the country. Considerable agriculture is also carried out here.

    Hønefoss Municipality

    We are passing by the town of Hønefoss. The town is built around a waterfall called Hønefossen (foss=waterfall) and grew in relation to the timber industry. Sawmills were placed along the waterfall to utilise its power. The last half of the 19th century brought significant development for the town. The connection to Drammen via railway in 1868 was important for the town.

    Flå Municipality

    Flå is the southernmost part of the traditional Hallingdal valley. Flå is known around Norway for Bjørneparken, which is a park with bears, moose, dear, wolves, foxes and lynx. Flå is also the birthplace of Olav Thon, who went on to become one of the richest men in Norway with his chain of hotels.

    Agriculture is the most important industry in Flå, though the timber industry is also important. The production on the farms is forest and grain, often with sheep and sometimes llamas as well. There are many cabins in the area as it is a popular spot to hunt for deer. Fishing is also organised in several area, and you can buy a licence at most petrol stations.

    Nesbyen Municipality

    Nesbyen municipality is part of the Hallingdal valley. Ancient trading routes went to Western Norway through the Valdres and Hallingdal valleys and then down to Røldal and Odda. The area here was originally populated by migrants from the west.

    Nesbyen has a boreal climate with warm summers and cold winters. The 20th of June 1970, Nesbyen recorded the all-time high in Norway at 35.6C (96.1F). Nesbyen also has a record cold temperature for the area at -38C. There is an old meteor crater just north of Nesbyen. About 650 million years ago, a 200-300 metres meteorite struck this area. This resulted in a 5km impact crater.

    Nesbyen

    Nesbyen is a small town with around 2,100 people living here. The village centre is surrounded by farms as agriculture is an important industry here.

    Hallingdal

    Hallingdal is one of the major valleys of eastern Norway. The valley is V-shaped and is drained by the Hallingdal River that comes in from the Hardangervidda plateau. Hallingdal is one of Norway’s busiest valleys as Highway 7 and the Bergen to Oslo train run through the valley.

    The valley has been an important trading valley for thousands of years. In the early years, Hallingdal prospered from trading with iron and trading routes developed throughout the Iron Age. Hallingdal farmers also traded cattle. The valley is characterised by its livestock farming, especially wool, dairy and eat production.

    Hallingdal is known for its unique art and music culture. Hallingdal has developed its own style of rosemaling with a distinct symmetrical style. The music of Hallingdal is traditionally dominated by the hardanger fiddle. The dance tunes have a distinct pattern, following three different lines of tradition. The Halling is the name of an old folk dance that is used in Norway. Each dancer is alone, and the climax of the dance is known as thrown Halling, where the goal is to kick down a hat from a stick.

    Hallingdal Travel Guide

    Gol Municipality

    Gol is a small settlement with around 3,200 people living here. It is the trading, service, and communication centre for the municipality.

    Gol used to have a stave church, called the Gol Stave Church. The church was from around 1216, but in the 1870s it was too small for the congregation. It was bought by King Oscar II’s Collections – later the Norwegian Folk Museum that’s now the open-air museum in Oslo. A new church was built in Gol.

    Gol has now built a kid’s park called Gordarike, which is inspired by Norse mythology and the Vikings. They have built a replica of the Gol Stave Church as a highlight of the park.

    Hemsedal Municipality

    Nesbyen municipality is part of the Hallingdal valley. Ancient trading routes went to Western Norway through the Valdres and Hallingdal valleys and then down to Røldal and Odda. The area here was originally populated by migrants from the west.

    Nesbyen has a boreal climate with warm summers and cold winters. The 20th of June 1970, Nesbyen recorded the all-time high in Norway at 35.6C (96.1F). Nesbyen also has a record cold temperature for the area at -38C. There is an old meteor crater just north of Nesbyen. About 650 million years ago, a 200-300 metres meteorite struck this area. This resulted in a 5km impact crater.

    Trøym

    Town

    Trøym is the administrative centre of Hemsedal. Most people (myself included) mistakenly call the village Hemsedal because it has all the main services for the municipality. For example, we are passing Hemsedal Church from the 1880s. The old stave church used to be here.

    Hemsedalsfjellet

    Mountain Range

    Shortly after leaving Trøym, you will cross the Hemsedalsfjellet Mountain Range over into Western Norway. The road can close in winter. 

    Lærdal Municipality

    Lærdal is a municipality in western Norway. It has a relatively dry climate, with around 600mm of rain a year. Agriculture is one of the biggest industries here. The lower part of the valley has one of the country’s best climactic conditions for growing vegetables.

    The river running through Lærdal is called the Lærdal River and is known as the ‘Queen of the Salmon rivers’ because it is one of Norway’s most famous salmon rivers. In the valley, you can hunt deer, reindeer, and elk.

    Lærdal is an important place historically. It has been inhabited for 6,000 years and has always been on the main road between east and west in southern Norway. Originally the road was a footpath. In 1647, Kongevegen was built as a more modern road, and then in the 1840s it was upgraded to Den Bergenske Hovedvei. You can still see remains of Kongevegen in Lærdal municipality; today it is a hiking path.

    Borgund Stave Church

    Located close to the main highway is Borgund Stave Church, one of the 28 remaining stave churches in Norway. 

    Borgund Stave Church

    Lærdal

    Town

    This has been an important trading place since the Middle Ages. Lærdal sits on the Sognefjord, which goes approximately halfway into the country between the coast and the Swedish border. Therefore, it has always been preferred to travel by sea. Lærdal developed as a natural marketplace because of its position along the fjord. Coastal farmers brought herring and fish and exchanged goods with the mountain farmers who came from the Hallingdal and Valdres valleys.

    Historic wooden houses survive in Lærdal today that are connected to this historic marketplace.

    Lærdal Travel Guide

    Aurlandsfjellet

    If you are travelling in summer and don’t want to drive through the long tunnel, you can take the scenic detour on the Aurlandsfjellet Tourist Road. Allow an extra hour or so to do the drive, but it is well worth it!

    You can find our guide to Aurlandsfjellet below. 

    Aurlandsfjellet Tourist Road

    Lærdal Tunnel

    Tunnel

    The Lærdal Tunnel is 24.5km (15.2 mi) long. It is the longest road tunnel in the world. Construction started in 1995 and the tunnel opened in 2000, costing around 1 billion NOK ($113 million USD).

    The design of the tunnel takes into consideration the mental strain for the drivers, so the tunnel is divided into four sections, separated by three large mountain caves. The caves have blue lighting with yellow lights at the fringes to give an impression of sunrise. The caves are meant to break the routine.

    There are no emergency exits. Emergency phones are every 250m. There are also 15 turning areas in case of an accident. High air quality is achieved through ventilation and purification.

    Aurland Municipality

    People have lived off hunting and fishing in Aurland for thousands of years. Farming started around 2,000 years ago and agriculture is still an important industry here. Tourism is also emerging in importance as Aurland is home to the famous Flåm village as well as Gudvangen.

    In the village of Aurland you’ll find Vangen Church, a medieval stone church from 1202. It is built in the early Gothic style influenced by English architecture. The fact that they used stone as a building material indicates how important Aurland was as a town.

    Flåm

    Our drive concludes in Flåm, one of the most popular places in Norway for tourism. If you want somewhere a little quieter, you can choose to stay in Aurland instead. 

    You can find our travel guide for Flåm below. 

    Flåm Travel Guide

    Where to Go From Here

    Flåm is perfectly located to continue your road-trip. You can either take the ferry over to Balestrand and continue from there, or you can continue on to Bergen. 

    Flåm to Bergen on the E16
    Bergen to Balestrand
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    •  

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    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Flåm, Lærdal, Stave Churches

    Why You Should Visit Borgund Stave Church

    Why You Should Visit Borgund Stave Church

    No trip to Norway is complete without a visit to Borgund Stave Church. But why this church out of the 28 remaining stave churches in the country? I’ll admit, Borgund Stave Church is not my favourite in the country, but it is very important. After all, Bogund is exceptionally well preserved and recognised as the most distinctive stave church in Norway. So, if you want to get an idea of the original stave churches, this one is great.

    Borgund Stave Church is about 30km southeast of the town Laerdal, which is close to Flåm. The church stands on the historic main road between east and west Norway. Today the European Highway 16 (E16) follows the old main road. It’s one of the best known, most photographed, and best-preserved stave churches in the country.

    I’ve written a useful overview of Borgund Stave Church, so you know why it’s so special. Also, it’s nice to know what to look for when visiting! If you have any tips or questions, please leave them in the comments.

    In this article...

    Lærdal Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Borgund Stave Church

    Early History & Position

    The exact age of Borgund Stave Church is unknown. It is possibly as old as 1150 when looking at the timber. However, the church is generally regarded as being from around the year 1200. It is dedicated to the apostle Andrew.

    Borgund Stave Church is on the historic main road between east and west Norway, which was primarily used as a trade route for over 1000 years. This part of the valley widens, and the Laerdal River flows through it. With its strategic position, it’s clear to see why it became such an important place of worship. But it’s not just about trade: the valley has an abundance of pine trees, and it was necessary to build close to a pine forest. The valley is also sheltered in this section.

    The first written mention of Borgund Stave Church is in a land register in the diocese of Bergen, written down shortly after 1350. Borgund is in many written documents as the church has always been important to the study of stave churches.

    Important Worshipping Site

    The location of the church is important. Being on the main road meant that travellers couldn’t help but be influenced by the church and the new Catholic religion. There was a sacrificial site on the hill, and animal bones have been found there. Perhaps the area was once used by pagans, giving another reason for building a church here. The old stone altar in the church probably once stood on the sacrificial site.

    Construction Method

    The church is very well documented, especially compared to other stave churches in the country. Stave churches get their name from their construction method. Here at Borgund, you can see the vertical wooden beams along the walls holding up the roof.

    The church is built according to a basilica plan with a raised central nave. Structurally, the building is a ‘cube within a cube’, each cube being independent of one another. The inner ‘cube’ has continuous columns that rise from the ground level to support the roof. ‘Saint Andrew Crosses’ link the columns: these carry supports that offer the visual equivalent of a ‘second story’. While not a functional gallery, it is reminiscent of contemporary second-story galleries elsewhere in Europe.

    Around the exterior of the church is a corridor with a roof. A guide once said that this is where the Vikings would keep their swords and shields while they attended church. But another common theory is that it was where people gathered before and after mass, and the roof provided shelter.

    Dragon Heads

    One of the most known characteristics of a stave church is its dragons’ heads on the roof, but very few stave churches in Norway have dragon’s heads. Borgund Stave Church is one of the very few with carved dragon’s heads. They are from the 18th century and likely copies of the earlier heads.

    Dragons heads are also found on Lom Stave Church and Urnes Stave Church. I visited both on my Ultimate Norwegian Roadtrip.

    Why dragons heads? I’m working on a separate article that explains the construction and symbolism in stave churches in much more depth, but we can talk about the dragons’ heads a little here too. Christianity came to this region around 997, around 200 years before Borgund Stave Church. It’s believed that the population continued to keep to the pagan tradition and faith well into the Christian times. Because of that, many pagan symbols with pre-Christian backgrounds, including dragons, have made it onto Christian buildings.

    Dragons’ heads feature on Viking ships, and they are believed to keep evil spirits away. That is one reason why they are on stave churches. Another reason is that the construction of the roof is like shipbuilding, and since dragons feature on ships, they should be on the roof too.

    Fun fact: the dragons’ heads weren’t only for style: they also formed the churches drainage system!

    Changes after the Reformation

    Stave churches were not spared from the Reformation that swept Norway in the 1530s. The conversion to Lutheran Protestantism saw many changes in these old Catholic Churches. At Borgund, benches line the walls: during Catholic times, it was compulsory to stand for hours! The pulpit and nave are from Lutheran times, and the walls are rose-painted: some of the rose-painting has survived.

    Another common feature of a post-Reformation church is the introduction of windows so the community could read scripture. Borgund got many new windows but all except one have been removed in a later renovation.

    19th century growth & restoration

    The community around Borgund experienced a huge rise in population in the early 19th century. By the 1840s the stave church was too small for the public. The new Borgund Church is from 1868, the same year service at the stave church ended. Rather than tear the stave church down, as what happened to many stave churches, Borgund was preserved. This is probably because it had been so well documented and painted throughout history. The general perception had been that Borgund was special. So, it was sold to the Preservation for Ancient Norwegian Monuments.

    A large amount of restoration work was done on the church to bring it closer to its medieval form. The pews were removed, except for the ones from the 1150s along the wall. The window openings were closed, except for one window. Some of the original paintwork was restored too.

    Wooden carvings

    Like Urnes Stave Church (which is UNESCO World Heritage-listed), Borgund Stave Church has a lot of detail around its western portal. In addition to animal motifs, there are acanthus vines, fighting snakes and flying dragons. Due to being found in many places in this part of Norway, they are places under a collective term called the Sogn-Valdres Group (Sogn and Valdres are two regions: Sogn after the Sognefjord and Valdres in central Norway).

    Why pagan carvings around the door? Well, like the dragons’ heads, it’s believed the new Christians kept to some of their pagan traditions. Another reasoning is that Christian authorities may have interpreted the pagan symbols as the struggle between good and evil, in line with Christian medieval art. After all, in Christian art, the dragon was often used as a symbol for the devil. So, the carvings probably had a protective quality. The carvings at Urnes Stave Church are also read as the struggle between good and evil, or between paganism and Christianity.

    Sadly part of the carvings was damaged after the church door was rebuilt in the 1820s. One of the stave churches caught fire in 1822 and 113 people died because the doors opened inwards and they were unable to get out. After that, a rule was made that all churches had to have doors that opened outwards.

    Runic inscriptions

    When visiting a stave church, always be on the lookout for rune inscriptions! There are several ones here. Most are on the walls of the church’s west portal. One reads: “Thor wrote these runes in the evening at the St. Olav’s Mass”.

    Interior decoration

    The interior of Borgund is very dark, so it is useful to have a guide with you. They have torches and can show you all the individual features.

    There is little inside, and some may be disappointed, but it is also very true to what stave churches looked like inside during medieval times. There is a row of benches along the wall from the 1150s that were used by the elderly. There’s also a soapstone font, an altar from the 17th century, a 16th-century lectern, and a 16th-century cupboard for storing altar vessels.

    Inside you’ll be able to see the twelve free-standing columns that support the naves elevated central space and the Saint Andrews Crosses connecting them. The original floors have been preserved but are today covered due to the number of people visiting.

    The many Borgunds

    Because Borgund Stave Church is so well documented throughout history, and today it is famous for being the most distinctive stave church, many other churches have taken inspiration from it. It has served as the inspiration for the reconstruction of Fantoft Stave Church in Bergen. The Gustav Adolf Stave Church in Germany, built in 1908, is modelled after Borgund Stave Church. There are also three replicas in the USA: Chapel in the Hills in South Dakota, Lyme in Connecticut and Washington Island in Wisconsin. Furthermore, the stave church at the Norwegian pavilion in Epcot in Walt Disney World Florida is a copy of Gol Stave Church, which was reconstructed to look more like Borgund Stave Church.

    New Borgund Church

    Don’t skip a visit to the new Borgund Church from 1868. It’s built in the dragestil and seats 175. Dragestil is a Norwegian architectural style that emerged during the period of National Romanticism when the country was interested in preserving the medieval style of construction – especially when it came to stave churches.

    Exterior bell tower

    Another exterior feature is the bell tower. It dates back to the middle of the 13th century and is the only original free-standing bell tower in stavework in Norway today. The bells are fairly new: one of the medieval bells is in the new Borgund Church.

    Visiting Borgund Stave Church

    When you visit, you have to park at the visitor centre and buy a ticket inside. Then, it’s about a 200-metre walk to the stave church – you have to cross the main road, so be careful! There will be a staff member by the church gate, and you won’t be allowed in without a ticket. Try and time your visit with a guided tour – it’s necessary to truly appreciate all the fine details in the church. Just ask when buying your ticket.

    The visitor centre is also worth your time. It has a small museum with items from the church, plus an excellent gift shop and café.

    The surrounding area is rich in cultural heritage. Close by is the King’s Road, which is the preserved part of the ancient road between east and west. Take a detour and drive along the old part, parking along the way to do Vindhellvegen, an old hairpin road turned hiking trail. It’s a short and easy path.

    I recommend having a rental car, but you can get to Borgund via public buses. There are a few a day that links you with Sogndal, Laerdal and Flåm, so you’ll have to plan well. In summer, there are guided bus tours from Flåm that I’d recommend over relying on public buses. The drive from Flåm is a little under one hour.

    Opening Hours: 15 May 2021 – 10 October 2021 daily 10am – 5pm

    Tickets: Adults 100 NOK / Children 40 NOK

    Up-to-date and more detailed info can be found here: https://www.stavechurch.com/our-stave-churches/borgund-stave-churc/?lang=en

    Parking: Free by the visitor centre. Do not park next to the stave church

    Restrooms: Inside the visitor centre

    Resources

    Lærdal Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide
  • Aurland, Flåm, Lærdal, National Tourist Roads, Road-trips, Sognefjord

    Drive it Yourself: Aurlandsfjellet Tourist Road

    Drive it Yourself: Aurlandsfjellet Tourist Road

    The Aurlandsfjellet Tourist Road is a short but incredibly diverse mountain road between the villages of Lærdal and Aurland near Flåm in Western Norway.

    The road is 45km in total length, and it has earned the nickname ‘Snow Road’ because snow typically remains on the mountains all year round. 

    With most of the tourist roads in Norway, you really can do them in either direction. For Aurlandsfjellet, however, I strongly recommend you start at Lærdal and head to Aurland. The reveal of the mountains and fjords is much more dramatic. 

    Aurlandsfjellet was completed in 1967, and it used to be the main road between the two towns. Since 2000, however, the main highway E16 has gone through the new Lærdal Tunnel instead. The Lærdal Tunnel is 24.5km long, making it one of the longest tunnels in the world. You can take the tunnel, I mean it is quicker, but the Aurlandsfjellet Tourist Road is much more fun!

    Here’s my guide on where to stop for photos and what to do on the Aurlandsfjellet Tourist Road. 

    In this article...

    Download this Guide

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    I offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on my online store. 

    View at the Store

    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Information about facilities along the way

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the region & towns
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Facilities including supermarkets, toilets, petrol, hotels, cafes, restaurants with addresses.

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    Visit Our YouTube Channel

    Aurlandsfjellet Tourist Road

    Lærdal

    This drive begins in Lærdal, a historic trading town. Originally, the main market town used to be across the fjord in Kaupanger (see my article on Kaupanger Stave Church). However, some time in the 15th or 16th century, it moved acoss to Lærdal.

    Lærdal is on the historic postal route between Bergen and Oslo. When coming from Oslo, Lærdal was the place where the postal workers would leave their horses and embark on boats. They would dock at Gudvangen, take horses to Bolstadoyri, and then take boats to Bergen.

    In Lærdal you have to stop at the historic district. These are a collection of preserved wooden houses from the 17th to 19th centuries. The main street is Øyragata, and you can see different architectural styles from traditional building customs to Swiss and Art Nouveau, and then Classicism and Functionalism. There’s a telecommunications and postal museum in the town today.

    Another attraction is the Norwegian Wild Salmon Centre, which was opened by King Harald in 1996. It has a salmon ladder, salmon observatory, rapids with live fish, exhibitions, cafes and restaurant. 

    Lærdal Travel Guide

    Vedhaugane

    Scenic Stop

    This is a scenic overlook of the mountains. From here, you can see the Jotunheimen massif – on a clear day! A walkway and an ‘infinity’ bench curve away from the road.

    Flotane

    Scenic Stop

    This is where you feel like you are on top of the world! There’s a rest area with benches and restrooms – they are only open in the summer.

    Stegastein Viewpoint

    Scenic Stop

    This is where you feel like you are on top of the world! There’s a rest area with benches and restrooms – they are only open in the summer.

    Aurland

    We’ve made it to Aurland! That was easy. There’s a lot to see and do in Aurland, so don’t simply pass through it on your way to Flåm. In fact, Aurland is the more peaceful version of Flåm. 

    Aurland Travel Guide

    The Previous Drive

    Sognefjellet Tourist Road

    Drive through the dramatic Sognefjellet Tourist Road to reach the Sognefjord. 

    Sognefjellet Tourist Road

    This drive is part of the multi-day series “The Ultimate Norwegian Road-trip”, where we cover the best of Norway in an incredible 10 day drive. You can view the whole road-trip via the link below. 

    The Ultimate Norwegian Road-trip

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!