Norway

  • History, Norway, Svalbard

    The History of Svalbard (Summarised)

    The History of Svalbard

    Svalbard, an archipelago located in the Arctic Ocean, holds a history as vast and rugged as its icy landscapes. While the first people to visit Svalbard is disputed, there’s no denying that the island was of great importance for European hunting and trade in the 17th and 18th centuries. While the basis for interest in the archipelago was the exploration of its natural resources, today the interest in Svalbard is largely scientific.

    When travelling to Svalbard, you’ll of course be doing many excursions to see the incredible nature. However, it’s good to understand how Svalbard came to be what it is today. I’ve written this short historic overview of Svalbard with additional information on how to visit these places today, and hopefully this will make your trip to Svalbard even better!

    Here is my History of Svalbard. 

    In this article...

    Svalbard Travel Guide

    Be sure to read my detailed travel guide for Svalbard, including all the settlements and itineraries for different times of the year. 

    When did the first peoples reach Svalbard?

    It’s not known exactly when the first peoples were on Svalbard. Some explorers have claimed that they have found Stone Age tools on Svalbard from around 3,000BC, but there is little support of these claims. However, during the 19th century Norwegian historians proposed that Norse seamen founded Svalbard in 1194, and this is based on documents stating that “Svalbarði” is four days sailing from Iceland. This is where the name ‘Svalbard’ comes from. However, there is no further written sources about the Norse exploration to Svalbard. Russian historians have proposed that the Pomors (North Russian traders) may have visited the island in the 15th century.

    The first undisputed discovery of Svalbard was an expedition led by the Dutch cartographer and navigator Willem Barentsz (the Barents Sea is named after him), who was searching for the Northeast Passage to China. He spotted Bear Island (just south of the main island Spitsbergen) on 10 June 1596 and then saw the north-western tip of Spitsbergen on the 17th of June. His documents did not mention Svalbard’s natural resources, such as oil and fur – what the region would soon become famous for.

    The First Peoples of Svalbard & Early Whaling

    Svalbard’s natural resources were not ‘discovered’ until 1607, when the English navigator Henry Hudson found whales, walruses, and seals in the water around Spitsbergen. This gave rise to a claim of Spitsbergen in 1614 by the Muscovy Company on behalf of King James I of England.

    The Dutch started whaling activities in the Arctic around the year 1612, and they established the first settlement on Svalbard – Smeerenburg – in 1619. It is possible to visit Smeerenburg only on cruises that visit the north-west coast of the island. The Dutch ended up dominating the whaling industry with the help of experienced Basque harpooners, who boiled whale blubber in large copper pots. By the late 17th century, there were between 200 and 300 ships and up to 10,000 whalers around Spitsbergen. The first group overwintered (accidentally) in 1630. The first planned overwintering was by the Dutch at Smeerenburg in 1633. Smeerenburg was abandoned in 1750.

    Cornelis de Man's 1639 painting of whaling at Smeerenburg
    remains of smeerenburg history of svalbard
    Smeerenburg today

    Eventually the interest in other resource arose, with the goods being taken back to Europe to be sold. The Pomors (Russian traders) were the ones who started hunting animals for fur. They hunted polar bears, foxes, seals, and walruses. They built many hunting stations around Svalbard, and many of these stations, complete with Russian Orthodox crosses, have been excavated. The Pomors would also overwinter on Svalbard. The large Pomor settlement at Russekeila became known for its famous inhabitant, Ivan Starostin, who spent 39 winters on Svalbard. Cape Starashchin is named after him.

    Who owns Svalbard? Political Conflicts over the Archipelago

    The European whalers let to an international political conflict. Who owned Svalbard? Who had a right to kick others out? The Dutch rejected that the English had exclusive rights, and King Christian IV of Denmark-Norway claimed that he had the rights to all of the Northern Sea as Greenland was an old Norwegian tax-land. England offered to purchased the rights from Denmark-Norway, but the offer was turned down and then England went back to claiming exclusive rights. In 1615, Denmark-Norway sent men to collect tax from English and Dutch whalers, but they refused to pay. This ended in political deadlock.

    As mentioned above, the Russian Pomor traders came in the late 17th century and established their own settlements. In the 1790s, there were 2,200 Russian hunters in Svalbard. However, the Pomors found it difficult to compete with the Norwegians who reached the hunting grounds earlier and eventually took over. The Norwegians began overwintering in Svalbard in 1795.

    Seal hunting was started by the Germans in the late 17th century and was taken over by Norwegians and the Danes in the 18th century. Seal hunting wasn’t as profitable, though.

    Norwegians reached Svalbard in the 18th century, and the first Norwegian citizens to reach the island of Spitsbergen were a number of Sami people from Hammerfest, who were hired as part of a Russian crew for an expedition in 1795. From the 1820s Norwegian hunting expeditions grew and Tromsø became the main port from which the expeditions began. Elling Carlsen was a well-known seal hunter and explorer, and circumnavigated the whole archipelago in 1861.

    Exploration in the 19th Century

    While the interest in Svalbard was certainly associated with hunting, there was also an interest in studying Svalbard. Exploration on the archipelago began in the early 17th century by the whaling companies. In 1650, it was established that Spitsbergen was an island not connected to Greenland. However, it was only really the coast that was studied at first.

    The first scientific expedition to Svalbard was the Russian Čičagov Expedition between 1764 and 1766, which passed Svalbard in an unsuccessful attempt to find the North Sea Route. The second expedition was organised by the Royal Navy and led by Constantine Phipps in 1773. They collected zoological and botanical samples and measured water temperatures.

    Scientific exploration increased throughout the 18th century, with the most extensive surveys being carried out by William Scoresby, who published several papers on the Arctic. Baltazar Mathias Keilhau (a Norwegian) was the first to carry out expeditions on the interior of Svalbard. Swedish exploration started with Sven Loven in 1837, which led way to Sweden dominating scientific investigations in the last half of the century. Martin Conway (United Kingdom) was the first to produce a map of the interior of Svalbard.

    Airship Norge in Ny-Ålesund 1926

    Svalbard was used as the starting point for expeditions to the North Pole. Ny-Ålesund (the second main settlement of Svalbard, only accessible on guided tour) was the basis of four attempts to the North Pole between 1925 and 1928, including Roald Amundsen’s first attempt with a flying boat. Amundsen’s airship Norge is credited as the first to reach the pole. Umberto Nobile’s airship Italia crashed in 1928, resulting in the largest search in polar history.

    Industrialisation of Svalbard

    While hunting was important for the growth of interest in Svalbard, the next phase of Svalbard’s money-making history was the industrialisation of the archipelago following the discovery of coal. No rules governed who could claim land, and between 1898 and 1920 over 100 land claims were made.

    The first attempt to create a permanent settlement on Svalbard was carried out by Sweden’s Alfred Gabriel Nathorst, who established Kapp Thordsen in 1872 with the goal of mining phosphorite, but it was never carried out. The Swedes set themselves up to mine at Svea, while the Russians began mining at Barentsburg and Pyramiden. The two British companies were the Scottish Spitsbergen Syndicate and the Northern Exploration Company.

    Industrial mining of coal began in 1899 (the whalers and hunters had been using the coal long before then), but the first commercially viable mining company was the American John Munroe Longyear’s Arctic Coal Company, which established the town Longyear City (in 1925 it was renamed Longyearbyen). By 1910, 200 men worked for the company and by 1912 the company was extracting 40,000 tons of coal a year. The town and the mines were bought by the Norwegian-owned Store Norske Spitsbergen Kulkompani in 1916.

    Longyearbyen in 1908

    The first school in Longyearbyen was built in 1920 by the Church of Norway. Svalbard Radio started broadcasting in 1911, and an early version of a hotel was completed in 1896.

    Swedish interests established mines at Pyramiden (no longer accessible due to the war in Urkraine) and Sveagruva (recently abandoned and torn down), which Dutch investors established Barentsburg (not accessible due to the war in Ukraine). Norwegians established coal mining in Ny-Ålesund in 1916.

    Norway Claims Svalbard (The Svalbard Treaty)

    During all this time, Svalbard was a terra nullius (land without government). The work to establish an administration was established in 1871. Fridtjof Nansen’s endeavours raised the Norwegian public’s consciousness of the Arctic, which again brought forth public support for the annexation of Svalbard.

    The Government of Norway took initative in 1907 for negotiations between the involved states mining in Svalbard. Conferences were held in 1910, 1912 and 1914. The break through came at the Paris Peace Conference – Germany and Russia had both been excluded, while Norway enjoyed much goodwill after their neutral ally policy and was seen as a harmless country.

    The Svalbard Treaty of 9 February 1920 granted Norway full sovereignty over Svalbard, although with two major limitations: all parties to the treaty had equal rights to economic resources and Svalbard was not to be used for “warlike purposes”. That is why there’s no military on Svalbard, and why Russia owns Barentsburg and Pyramiden.

    Svalbard was to be administered by the Governor of Svalbard. It is regarded as “part of the Kingdom of Norway” but is not a county. A mining code was passed in 1925 and by 1927 all mining claims were resolved. All unclaimed land was taken over by the Norwegian government. Although the Soviet Union was sceptical to the treaty, they were willing to trade a signing of it in exchange for a Norwegian recognition of the Soviet regime.

    By the 1930s, only the Norwegians and Russians were mining on Svalbard.

    World War II

    Ruins from World War II in Longyearbyen

    Svalbard was initially unaffected by the Nazi occupation of Norway by Nazi Germany on 9 April 1940. However, following the Nazi attack on the Soviet Union, Svalbard became of strategic importance to secure supplies between the allies. All Norwegian and Soviet settlements were evacuated, and Nazis occupied Longyearbyen, where they built an airstrip and a weather station. Svalbard is one of the best weather prediction places for the sea and temperatures in Northern Norway, so it was of strategic importance for them. In May 1942, a Norwegian expedition was sent to liberate the island and they were attacked by the Nazis. Eventually the Nazis left Svalbard, but destroyed Barentsburg, Grumand and Longyearbyen in the process. The towns were rebuilt after the war, and in Longyearbyen it’s possible to see the remains of the town before the war.

    Cold War & the Kings Bay Affair

    Pyramiden, a now abandoned Soviet mining town

    In 1944, the Soviet Union proposed that Svalbard become a condominium under joint Norwegian and Soviet rule. The proposal was discussed in Norway but ultimately rejected.

    Political tension between Norway and the Soviet Union became heated after Norway joined NATO in 1949. The Soviet Union issued memorandums to Norway stating that Svalbard could not be under NATO command, but this was rejcted by Norway.

    21 miners were killed in an accident in Ny-Ålesund, which led to the King’s Bay Affair. Basically, the Kings Bay Mining Company was a coal mining operation based in Ny-Ålesund that was owned by the government. After the miners were killed in an accident, the Norwegian government established an investigatory commission that ended up finding deficiencies in the management of the mine, especially culpability on part of the minister of industry at the time, Kjell Holler. The non-socialist opposition to the Labour Party government demanded that Holler be dismissed, but Prime Minister Einar Gerhardsen claimed that the Kings Bay operations were not accountable to the parliament. Gerhardsen was forced to appear before parliament and answer for his cabinet’s actions. The opposition found unity in proposing a vote of no-confidence to the parliament, claiming that a government that owns a corporation that is mismanaged should be held accountable. This led to the Gerhardsen cabinet resigning.

    Oil drilling was started by Caltex in 1961. They were granted claims based on indications, rather than samples, of oil, which was a privilege not given to the Soviets, leading to strained relations. No commercially viable wells were found.

    Both the Kings Kay Affair and the Caltex Affair initiated public debate about the administration of Svalbard, and in particular the lack of resources and control of Soviet settlments. The Governor of Svalbard increased its activities in Soviet settlements.

    After mining ended in Ny-Ålesund, the Norwegian Polar Institute took a dominant role in converting it to an international research station.

    In 1973, more than half of the archipelago was protected through four national parks, fourteen bird sanctuaries and four nature reserved.

    'Normalisation' & Modern Times

    “Normalisation” was a term coined in the 1970s to transform Longyearbyen from a company town to a regular community. In 1971, the Svalbard Council was established for the Norwegian population.

    The civilian airport at Longyearbyen was built in 1975 and was built to serve both the Norwegian and Soviet towns.

    The 1990s saw a large reduction in Russian activity. Schools were closed in 1994 and children and mothers were sent to the mainland, reducing the population of Barentsburg to 800 and Pyramiden to 600. Pyramiden was abandoned in 1998. From 1990 to 2011, the Russian and Ukrainian population fell from 2,300 to 370, while the Norwegian population increased from 1,100 to 2,000.

    Tourism has emerged as a major livelihood for Svalbard with hotels being built on Spitsbergen from 1995.

    Research and education is also of crucial importance to Svalbard in modern times. Since the 1990s, several high-tech institutes and research centres have established themselves, including the University Centre in Svalbard, the European Incoherent Scatter Scientific Association, the Svalbard Satellite Station, the Svalbard Undersea Cable System, and the Svalbard Global Seed Vault.

    In 2002, the Longyearbyen Community Council was incorporated with many of the same responsibilities as a municipality.

    Today tourism is important to Svalbard and the largest industry on the archipelago, though research still plays an important role for the basis of settlement there. 

    Further Reading

    For a more detailed overview of Svalbard’s history, I recommend reading this document from VisitSvalbard (click here). 

    Svalbard Travel Guide

    Be sure to read my detailed travel guide for Svalbard, including all the settlements and itineraries for different times of the year. 

  • Norway

    Norwegian Road Rules You Must Know Before You Drive

    Norwegian Road Rules You Must Know Before You Drive

    I love driving in Norway. The Hidden North actually started because I wanted to post somewhere how much I love driving. What’s so great about driving in Norway is just how spectacular the scenery is. Everywhere you go, it feels totally different. On top of that, Norway’s roads are well-maintained and attractions are well-signed, making it a great way to see the country.

    However, Norway’s road rules can seem a little challenging for first-timers to the country. At the moment Norway is having a huge tourism boom (which is great!) and many people hire a car or bring their caravan without truly understanding how driving here works. Because of that, there’s an increased problem with road accidents, slow drivers delaying traffic, or dangerous situations which can be avoided. 

    Because of this, I’ve made an easy to follow guide on what I believe to be the most important road rules in Norway. I’ve also included resources with more information in case you need additional learnings. 

    Any questions, please post in the comments! Be sure to view all the road-trip guides I have for Norway. 

    My Road-trip guides

    Table of Contents

    Statens Vegvesen

    Statens Vegvesen (the Norwegian Public Roads Administration) is responsible for most aspects of driving in Norway. They have a detailed guide to driving in Norway, which I recommend you read.

    Click here to read their road rules (in English). 

    Wikipedia has a fantastic overview of all the road signs in Norway. View it here.

    Laws & Regulations

    Drivers Licences

    Whether or not your driving licence is valid depends on the country you come from. If you are from the EU or European Economic Area, there is a mutual agreement meaning that if you have a valid driving licence from an EU/EEA nation, you can legally drive in Norway.

    For others, a foreign-issued driving licence is valid for up to three months, as long as the licence remains valid in the issuing country. This is not the case for those moving to Norway; just tourists.

    Basically, if your drivers licence is in Latin, you do not need an International Driving Licence. You need one if your licence is in another language that doesn’t use Latin (such as Arabic) or if your licence doesn’t have a photo.

    Source: Statens Vegvesen

    Mobile Phones

    Talking on mobile phones is prohibited.

    Drinking & Driving

    Drinking and driving is punished with severe penalties. The legal limit is 20 milligrams of alcohol per 100 millilitres of blood (or 0.02%). This is very low, so the general rule of thumb is to not drink any alcohol whatsoever if you will be driving.

    Car Requirements

    Lights

    You must use low-beam headlights at all times in Norway. Most rental cars will do this automatically. 

    Tyres

    Norway has rules for summer and winter tyres, but the rental company is responsible for having the correct tyres on. Nothing for you to worry about!

    Do not put chains on tyres. Trucks and heavy vehicles use chains in exceptional circumstances, but not passenger vehicles. 

    Parking Regulations

    It’s common to have to pay for parking on streets in major cities. Shopping malls often have paid parking but maybe the first two hours are free.

    Everything is becoming digital, and the same goes for parking. You have to download an app to pay for parking. The most common app in Norway is EasyPark, but there are several apps for paying for parking, so check when you get to the parking area.

    There are fines for parking violations and they can be over 700 NOK.

    The street sign of the red cross on a blue background means no stopping, while the street sign with the red diagonal line on a blue background means no parking. This applies until the next crossing road or until another sign ends it.

    Speed Limits & Speeding

    In Norway, speed signs are posted everywhere and the speeds here are generally lower than other countries.

    Highways are often 80km/h, especially in Western Norway. Around Oslo and in Northern Norway, dual carriageways and motorways will be 90 or 100km/h. Residential neighbourhoods may be as low as 30km/h and have lots of speed bumps, while commercial and urban areas are around 50km/h.

    Norwegians are very serious about speeding and for speeding or traffic violations, you may pay between 600 NOK and 7800 NOK. This includes speeding, not wearing a seatbelt, using a mobile phone, etc.

    When you enter a town, you’ll see the speed limit for that town. When you leave the town, you’ll see a sign with the speed limit crossed out. This basically means “end of speed limit, new limit is up to 80km/h depending on conditions”. This means that you don’t have to drive 80km/h if it isn’t safe; just anything up to 80km/h.

    Toll Roads/AutoPASS/Paying for Ferries

    When you pick up your rental car, it’ll have an AutoPASS device in it. This means you pass through toll cameras without stopping, and this will be included as an extra fee on your invoice from the car rental agency. Most ferries now also use the AutoPASS as payment for the ferry; they scan the tag when you drive onto the ferry.

    Tolls payment stations often (but not always) show the amount you are paying and will be marked by a blue sign with a ‘Kr’ on it. 

    In many places it is not possible to avoid toll roads. 

    Priority Roads

    This is a common rule in Europe but may trip up drivers from other countries. Unless indicated by a yellow diamond sign, vehicles approaching the intersection from the right have the right of way. That means if you are not on a priority road and someone is coming from the right, you need to slow down and let them in.

    The priority road sign is always after an intersection, so they are obvious to see. Almost every highway is a priority road, as are most main streets in towns.

    Be careful, though! If you see cars coming from the right and driving in front of you without hesitating, then you are probably not on a priority road. I learned this the hard way in Hammerfest, where the main road is not a priority road. 

    On the Road

    Let Others Pass You!

    In Norway, you are taught that if you are holding someone up on the road (maybe you are driving much slower than them), you must pull over and let them pass you. So many tourists (especially caravan drivers) come to Norway and don’t do that, and because of this they are getting a fairly negative reputation. So if you are driving and can see that you are holding someone up, pull over at the next safe spot and let them pass.

    Who to Give Way to

    Pedestrians always have the right of way at marked pedestrian crossings.

    If you are on a road where the speed limit is 60km/h or less, you must give way to all public buses if they are pulling out from a stop. Trams also have the right of way.

    Tunnels

    Norway has many tunnels (over 1,000!) and they are mostly in the western part and the mountainous regions. Road tunnels are typically two land and it’s important to keep to the speed limit inside.

    Mountain Passes

    Mountain passes are closed over winter and will close during severe storms in the summer months. They often have very long and winding downhill stretches, which may affect your vehicle.

    Tourist Attractions

    Any brown sign is a tourist attraction.

    Winter Driving

    If you are not used to driving on snow and ice, reconsider your need to go driving. There are growing accidents in the Arctic due to winter because of tourists looking for northern lights and driving in conditions they are not used to. It is not worth it!

    Wildlife

    In rural forested areas, beware of moose or deer near the roadside as they may suddenly jump into traffic. In the north of Norway, it’s common to have reindeer on the road.

  • Aurland, Bergen, European Highways, Fagernes, Flåm, Hønefoss, Lærdal, Norway, Oslo, Road-trips, Vang, Voss

    Drive it Yourself: Oslo to Bergen on the E16

    Drive it Yourself: Oslo to Bergen on the E16

    The E16 between Oslo and Bergen follows the historic road between east and west Norway that has existed for thousands of years. Over the centuries the road has gradually been modernised, but traces of the past remain.

    While the E16 is the longer way between the two cities, the road is lined with historic monuments, including stave churches, runestones, and lodgings. It makes for a great, scenic road-trip!

    Here’s our guide to the E16 highway. 

    In this article...

    Download this Guide

    All of our guides can be downloaded via our online store. 

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

    View on Store

    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Information about facilities along the way

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the region & towns
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Facilities including supermarkets, toilets, petrol, hotels, cafes, restaurants with addresses.

    The Drive: Oslo to Bergen on the E16

    This drive begins in Oslo. 

    Oslo Travel Guide

    Read more about Oslo, Norway’s capital, on our dedicated travel guide page. Click the button below. 

    Oslo Travel Guide

    Sandvika

    Neighbourhood

    The first neighbourhood you drive through is called Sandvika. While it is technically part of Oslo city, it is in many ways regarded as its own community. The population is approximately 130,000.

    Claude Monet visited the city in 1895. During his visit, he painted the city. Perhaps the most famous work from this visit is “Sandviken Village in Snow”, which shows the Løkka Bridge in the foreground with the hill Kolsås in the background. The bridge still stands today.

    The area of Sandvika has existed since for thousands of years. The Sandvik grounds were rich fishing grounds that provided an important supplement to the farms in Sandvika.

    Sandvika is home to Scandinavia’s largest super mall – the Sandvika Storsenter – with 190 stores and a total area of 60,000 square metres or 650,000 square feet.

    Hole Municipality

    The municipality of Hole is situated around the Tyrifjord, where the soil is fertile and suited to growing fruit, berries, and other agricultural products. The coat-of-arms depicts the four Norwegian Kings who lived in the municipality in the 9th to 11th centuries. The most famous of the four is St. Olav (Olav Haraldsson), though Harald Hårdrade is a close second for fame – he was the one credited with ending the Viking Age at the Battle of Stamford Bridge in 1066. The other three kings are Halvdan Svarte (820-860), Sigurd Syr (-1018), and Harald Hardråde (1015-1066). Harald Hardråde is the king who lost at the Battle of Stamford Bridge in 1066, which is considered to be the event when the Viking Age ended.

    Hole is important in Norwegian history. Archaeological finds from the Roman and Migration periods are numerous, and Hole is known as one of the traditional landscapes from the Viking Age and plays a prominent role in the Norse sagas.

    Stein Church Ruins (Stein Kirkeruin) are located at Steinsfjorden. The church was constructed in the latter half of the 1100s. By the second half of the 1500s, the chapel was no longer in use. There are some historic churches in the area: Bønsnes Church is a medieval church from 1100 and Hole Church is probably from 1200.

    Utøya

    Memorial

    As you drive along the Tyrifjord, down on your left is the island Utøya. This was the site of the terrorist attack that happened in Norway in 2011. It is possible to take a detour down to the memorial site. On GPS it is marked as “Minnesmerke Utøya”.

    Tyrifjord

    Lake

    The Tyrifjord is a lake (not a fjord like the name suggests). It is the fifth largest large in Norway with an area of 139km2 and a maximum depth of 295m. It is one of Norway’s most species-rich lakes. The lake used to be part of the sea, but as the land has risen it has become landlocked. In the fjord, free fishing without a licence is accepted based on tradition and custom. Brown trout is caught in the lake, though crayfish is also popular. 

    Sundvollen

    Village

    Sundvollen is a village located along the eastern part of the Tyrifjord. The name comes from the name of a farm that used to be here. Sundvollen is most noted for its hotels. Sundvolden Hotel is one of Norway’s oldest hotels – it was mentioned in written sources dating from 1648. Kleivstua Hotel was a coaching inn in 1780 which catered to travellers going between Christiania (Oslo) and Ringerike. It is on the Old Royal Bergen Road, the historic road between Oslo and Hadeland. The road is also part of the Old Pilgrims Route from Oslo to Trondheim. Understandably, there were many travellers coming through here. They would stop at one of the hotels for food, accommodations, and to give their horses a rest. Unfortunately both of the hotels have been renovated extensively, so there’s no trace of the original lodgings. 

    Petroglyphs from the Bronze Age have been found approximately 100m from the E16 and show ship figures, circuit figures and bowl pits. 

    In Sundvollen you can hike to “Kongens Utsikt”, a scenic viewpoint overlooking the Tyrifjord. 

    Norderhov Church

    Historic Church

    Norderhov Church is a medieval church that was built in 1170. The church is built in local sandstone and limestone in a Romanesque style of architecture. The church was built on a former pagan court for the god Njord, and that’s where the name Norderhob comes from. The church was historically the most important church in Ringerike. 

    Across the road from the church is Norderhov’s old rectory, which is now the Ringerike Museum. The museum has runestones and its collection of the private belongings of Jørgen Engebretsen Moe, a Norwegian author most famous for ‘Norske Folkeeventyr”, a collection of Nowegian folk tales which he edited in collaboration with Peter Christen Asbjørnsen. 

    The church and vicarage are known for their close association with the vicar’s wife Anna Colbjørnsdatter (1667-1736), who legend says tricked the Swedes by getting the Colonel drunk. This gave the far smaller Norwegian-Danish force an opportunity to inflict a defeat on the Swedes. This was in connection with the Battle of Norderhov in 1716. She then received heroine status and is one of the very few female heroes in Norwegian history. She was married to historian and parish priest Jonas Ramus and they are in the crypt under the church. Her portrait can be seen inside the church. The pulpit is from 1582 and is considered one of Norway’s oldest preserved pulpits. 

    Hønefoss Travel Guide

    You don’t drive through Hønefoss on the E16; it is approximately a five-minute drive into the town. However, this is the first major town that you pass on the drive, so it can be a useful rest stop. 

    Hønefoss is regarded as the centre of Ringerike. The town is located by a waterfall and is founded on the sawmill business that arose from the waterfall in the 17th century. Hønefoss is home to several factories and other industry, with Norske Skog Follum, a timber company, having its headquarters here. Dating from 1873, Norske Skog Follum was one of the largest producers of newsprint in Europe until it closed in 2012. 

    HØNEFOSS Travel Guide

    Follum

    Village

    Follum is a small village after Hønefoss on the western side of the Ådal River. It is on the old road that led to the Ådal Valley. The name comes from the oldest farm in the area. 

    Ådal Valley

    Valley

    You are now driving through the Ådal Valley. 

    The first church built in Ådal was a stave church built during the 15th century. It is mentioned in the Diplomatarium Norvegicum in 1462. The church was eventually removed to make way for a larger, more modern church. 

    Viker Church is located on the western shore of the Sperillen Lake and is from 1702. The pulpit, altar and crucifers from the old stave church are inside Viker Church. 

    Valdres Natur og Kulturpark

    Preserve

    You are now entering the traditional district of Valdres, which is situated between the Gudbrandsdal and Hallingdal valleys. The river Begna runs through the municipality. 

    The traditional Valdres region is located approximately halfway between Oslo and Bergen. The valley has the Jotunheimen mountains to the west and the north. Historically, Valdres has been an agricultural economy, but tourism is becoming more important – especially for skiing. 

    Sør-Aurdal Municipality

    The name comes from the valley in which it is located. The coat-of-arms represents a medieval reliquary that is based on the one found at Hedal Stave Church. It has two dragons heads in the design since Sør-Aurdal is one of only two municipalities in Norway that have two stave churches that are still in use. The colour blue represents the two river systems that have historically been important for the logging industry and sawmills. 

    Olav Haraldsson, later St. Olav, travelled through Valdres in 1023 and visited Reinli. At the time, there was a pagan temple at the same location where the stave church stands. 

    One of the highlights of the municipality is Hedalen Stave Church was built in 1160 but rebuilt in 1699. An old legend says that the valley was abandoned during the Black Death and the church was discovered by a bear hunter. A hide is hanging in the church, although there is only a small part of it left as visitors have cut away pieces over the years. We will pass the turnoff for it a little later. 

    Bagn
    Village

    Bagn is the administrative centre of Sør-Aurdal. This area saw extensive fighting during World War II as advancing German forces were stopped in Bagn. The battles in the valley were extensive. 

    In Bagn you can find the Bagn Bygdesamling, a small museum that includes farmhouses, a sawmill, a flour mill, and other buildings. The museum is on a preserved farm. Next to Bagn Church is an intact shop from 1881, which may have been the largest business in Valdres. The shop is open during the summer holidays and before Christmas. 

    Bagn Church is the main church in the valley and seats 350 people. The earliest church in the area was mentioned in 1327, but the church was not new that year. The first church was likely a wooden stave church from the 13th century. The old church was closed in 1683 and for some time the locals had to use Reinli Stave Church. The church that we see today is the second church and dates to 1736. 

    Nord-Aurdal Municipality

    The coat-of-arms for Nord-Aurdal depicts three blue flowers called ‘Snow Gentian’. The flowers are locally known as ‘the blue eyes of Christ’ and grow all over Norway but grow abundantly in this area. They represent the three main settlements of the municipality: Aurdal, Fagernes, and Leira. This is a fairly mountainous municipality. The highest point is 1,325m (4,347ft) high and about 50% of the land is above 900m (3000ft).

    Aurdal
    Village

    Aurdal is a small village with a population of around 647. The village is known for its winter sports activities and is in Valdres’ Alpine Centre. There are several places to stay and eat. There used to be a railway here – the Valdresbanen – but it stopped in 1888. 

    Just after Aurdal is the Noraker Gård. This farm is currently being run by the 12th century. Rakfisk is a highly desirable food from this farm, and in 2022 they won the expert jury award at the Norwegian Rakfisk Festival. In 2006, Rakfisk from Valdres was approved as a protected geographical indication. This means that only fish hatched, reared, and processed in Valdres can be sold under the Rakfisk fra Valdres brand. 

    They have a farm shop that also sells trout, mustard, beer, moose, goat, and art. 

    Rakfisk is a dish made from trout or char where it is salted and autolyzed for two or three months. It is then eaten without cooking and has a strong smell and pungen salty flavour. After the fish is gutted and rinsed, it is placed in a bucket and salt. It is then placed under pressure with a lid that fits down into the bucket and a weight on top. A brine is formed as the salt draws moisture from the fish. The rakfisk bucket is stored at under 5 degreesC for one to three months. The finished product doesn’t need cooking. 

    Fagernes

    Fagernes is a major hub along the E16.

    The word ‘Fagernes’ is a combination of ‘fager’ (beautiful) and ‘nes’ (headland). The town was established in 1857, when the first trading operations started. The first hotel started operations in 1875, and from 1906 there was a train line (it has since closed). 

    If you are travelling in November, you may be in town for the Norwegian Rakfisk Festival, which takes place in the first week of the month. 

    In Fagernes is the Valdres Folkmuseum, a well-known museum that shows the culture of the Valdres region. It is both an indoor and outdoor museum. 

    Fagernes Travel Guide

    Ulnes Church

    Historic Church

    Ulnes Church is a beautiful church that you’ll pass shortly after leaving Fagernes. The earliest records of the church go back to 1307, but it was not new that year. Estimates say that the church was built around the year 1265 as its architecture reflects the transition between Romanesque and Gothic architecture. 

    In 1675, there were plans to replace it with a new wooden church as it was decaying, but thankfully that didn’t happen. Around 1720, the church was put out of use. It was described in 1733 by a bishop as “a pile of stones” with only the choir being suitable to keep. The church was restored in 1737, with the nave being demolished and rebuilt. The interior was also refurbished. 

    Vestre Slidre Municipality

    The next municipality is Vestre Slidre. The municipality is partly named after the historic Slidre Church, which you’ll see soon. The coat-of-arms are based on a heraldic decoration found in the Slidredomen church that dates to 1170. The design was originally part of a seal that belonged to a medieval nobleman in the area. The meaning of the design is unknown. 

    Vestre Slidre is mentioned in the Old Norse sagas. Harald Fairhair, who became the first King of Norway (872-930), did some conquests over petty kingdoms. One of the encounters that led to the overall conquest was with Skallagrim Kveldulvssøn in Vestre Slidre. Also, in 1023, King Olav Haraldsson came to the area to Christianise the people. The locals were caught unaware, and Olav took all their boats. They would only get them back if they accepted Christianity, which they did. 

    Lastly, in 2000 Sami gamme huts (a simple form of a hut) were found in the municipality. This is the southernmost discovery of Sami settlements.

    Slidre

    Village

    Slidre is the next village on the E16. It has a population of around 337. 

    In Slidre you can see the Vestre Slidre Church (Slidredomen), a historic stone church from around 1170. The church is built in the Romanesque style of architecture and the stone walls are approximately 160cm (63 inches) thick. 

    The church is unique in that it doesn’t have a west portal. Instead, the main entrance is from the south.

    The furniture is from the 18th century, while there are frescoes from the 15th century. The choir has a painted wooden vault from the 14th century, which depicts Jesus Christ in the mandorla centrally in the middle. On the north wall, a medieval coat-of-arms has been uncovered and is used as Vestre Slidre’s coat-of-arms. 

    The area here is very old. Above the village of Slidre is an ancient burial ground called the ‘Gardberg Site’. Here you can see the Einangsteinen runestone. It is believed to be from the 4th century and is considered the oldest runestone in the Nordics that is standing in its original place. The name Einang comes from a nearby farm. 

    Lomen Stave Church

    Lomen Stave Church is from around the year 1192. The church is a pillar stave church, meaning the main room has four supporting stave beams. The style and decoration of the church is part of the “Valdres-Sogn” stave churches. This groups many of the churches from Valdres Valley and around the Sognefjord that have the same features. Considering the old King’s Road used to run through the valley to Sogn, they likely shared design tips.

    Like all stave churches, Lomen Stave Chuch has fallen victim to modernisation and renovation. The choir is from a major renovation in the 1750s. During this time, the walls were also expanded to make the main room larger.

    During the last refurbishment, archaeological excavations uncovered 71 artefacts, including jewellery and coins. The oldest coin found here is from King Sverre’s time, 1177-1202.

    Today the church, neighbouring bell tower and cemetery are under protection. Many original features of the church remain, despite major renovations. The most illustrative are the portals, which have decorations of dragons, vines, and animal heads. Some of the portals have moved around the church, but they do date back to medieval times. These kinds of decorations are common on Valdres-Sogn stave churches. The roof and wall timbers are also original.

    Lomen Stave Church

    Vang Municipality

    Vang is a small municipality in the traditional Valdres region. The name comes from an old farm, though vang comes from the Old Norse word vangr meaning ‘field’ or ‘meadow’. The coat-of-arms are rather special – they are based on historic descriptions and depictions of the personal arms of a local medieval nobleman called Sigvat of Leirhol. He was named as one of the members of the delegation that followed King Håkon V Magnusson to Copenhagen in 1309. He then became the governor of Valdres. His coat-of-arms can also be seen on Vang Church. 

    The municipality was originally populated by migrants from Western Norway. 

    The ancient Vang Church was the site of a legal court held by King Håkon VI in 1368. 

    Høre Stave Church

    Høre Stave Church is one of the stave churches with an insight into the fascinating past of Norway. Especially around and shortly after the time of the Civil War in the 12th and early 13th century. We know that the Christianisation of Valdres wasn’t easy. St. Olav, then King Olav, came from the west through the valley. He held farmers hostage and burnt down farms until they agreed to convert. According to the Sagas, Olav had churches built and clergymen appointed. None of these churches remains, but many of the stave churches are on the same spot, including Høre Stave Church.

    In medieval times, Valdres had many churches. There were at least 21 of them; 18 of which were stave churches. To compare, the neighbouring valley Hallingdal had 8 stave churches. Sadly very few remain today. 

    Judging from the rune inscriptions found inside the church and dating the timber, Høre Stave Church is from around 1179. It was originally a pillar church, with four corner staves. Under the church are graves, some of them children. It wasn’t allowed but common to bury children under stave churches. As they had not been baptised yet, the parents worried the children would not be accepted into heaven. Some foetuses were also found under the church. There is evidence of ceremonial burials under the church, likely from pre-Christian times.

    The original stave church somewhat exists today; all that remains is its skeleton. The skeleton is hidden by the cladding. The ship is still the original size, giving a sign of the original size of the church room.

    Høre Stave Church

    Vang i Valdres

    The word ‘vang’ comes from an old farm that stood here; this farm is also where the first church stood. Vang, like the rest of the Valdres Valley, was populated by migrants from Western Norway. People have lived in this valley (Vangr means meadow or field) for thousands of years. This is likely due to its proximity between east and west Norway. Vang is by a lake just before the mountain pass to Western Norway and thus made for a good rest stop.

    Vang became the site of a legal court (ting in Norwegian), and the ancient stave church was next to the site. The site was famously used by King Haakon VI in 1368 when he was settling a boundary dispute.

    Vang also became part of the ancient royal road between Bergen and Oslo. In the 16th century, it was the postal road, and from the 18th century, it was Kongevegen. Kongevegen was the first road for horse and cart between East and West, and I’ve covered it on my page for the E16. Today, the highway follows the same path as Kongevegen. Still, the town and nearby area became a place where travellers would seek refuge at some point on their journey. 

    The Vang Stone is clearly marked and is by the E16. Parking is available across the street. 

    The Vang Stone

    Øye Stave Church

    Øye Stave Church is one of the smallest and oldest stave churches in Norway. It is likely from some time during the second half of the 12th century. The church is first mentioned in written documents in 1347. It stood by the old traffic road over Filefjell, which was the first road between Bergen and Oslo.

    Øye Stave Church

    Kongevegen

    Historic Road

    As you may have noticed by now, there are a number of churches and important historic sites along the E16. This is because the E16 follows one of the ancient crossings between east and west Norway. It is called ‘Kongevegen’ (The Kings Road). The road is ancient and is believed to have been the first way between east and west. The first postal road was laid here in 1647, and the road received official status in 1791. 

    Ever since people have lived in Norway has this been the most useful route between east and east. A number of tracks show traffic throughout the Stone Age and Bronze Age. The road was also important in the Christianisation of Norway, as is evident in the large number of churches along the road. Many ancient farms here also became inns for travellers, and some survive today. In the Middle Ages, the road was known as the most difficult and dangerous in the country. As many Danish public servants were travelling between Bergen and Christiania (Oslo), it was decided to modernize the road in the 17th century. The road was built as straight as possible and became known as the Royal Postal Road. Most of the trip was done on foot. 

    In the 18th century, travelling with horse and carriage became more common, so it was decided to modernise the road again. In 1791, the official road was completed and Kongevegen became the first carriage road between east and west Norway. The road was built by hand. Today the E16 skips many of the most difficult parts with tunnels, but parts of the old road remain and are now a popular hiking trail. In 2017, Kongevegen was awarded the EU’s most important cultural heritage award, Europa Nostra. 

    It is possible to spend the night in one of the many lodges over the mountains and do short or long hikes. 

    Tyinkrysset

    Village

    Tyinkrysset is a village located in the Filefjell mountains, which is where the historic crossing between east and west Norway was. The village sits at an elevation of around 900 metres (3,000 feet). This area is popular with hikers. You’ll find some hotels up in the area. 

    Filefjellet Mountains

    Mountains

    You are now crossing the Filefjellet mountain range across to Western Norway. It has been an important crossing path between east and west Norway since ancient times. The highest peaks are 1013m above sea level. 

    The E16 follows a lot of the same path as the old road. 

    Lærdal Municipality

    Lærdal is the first municipality in Vestland county. Lærdal has a dry climate, with 420mm – 600mm of rainfall annually in the inhabited areas. Through the valley runs the Lærdalselvi, or the Laerdal River, known as the ‘Queen of the Salmon Rivers’. It is one of the country’s most famous large salmon rivers. The valleys have opportunities for hunting deer, reindeer, and elk. The valley was inhabited and used by humans as far back as 6,000 years ago. In places, the vally has been used since the Early Stone Age. In the mountains are the first traces of people in the mountain areas of Norway.

    Lærdal has always been the main road between east and west Norway. The area where the village Lærdalsøyri is developed as a marketplace in the Middle Ages. Coastal farmers brought herring and fish and exchanged goods with mountain farmers from Valdres. At least five generations of road structure remain in the Lærdal valley, which proves the valleys important function as a hub. Lærdal has a long tradition with agriculture. The lower part of the valley has one of the country’s best climatic conditions for growing vegetables. Early production of potatoes and vegetables is important. 

    Borlaug

    Village

    The next village is Borlaug. This is where the E16 joins with Highway 52, which runs over the Hemsedal mountains (it’s an alternative way between Oslo and Bergen). You’ll pass some old farmhouses on the right as you drive through the village. 

    Borgund

    Village

    Borgund is a mountain village. It has been an important spot on the journey between east and west Norway for hundreds of years. There are several farms in the village and agriculture is the main industry here. 

    Borgund Stave Church

    Borgund Stave Church is the most famous of Norway’s 28 remaining stave churches. The exact age of Borgund Stave Church is unknown. It is possibly as old as 1150 when looking at the timber. However, the church is generally regarded as being from around the year 1200. It is dedicated to the apostle Andrew.

    The church is fascinating; a visit to it should not be missed. The church is open in the summer for tourists for a small fee. Check their website for more information. 

    Borgund Stave Church

    Lærdal

    You will bypass the village of Lærdal on the E16, but it’s a worthwhile detour to drive into the village. Lærdal is a historic trading place on the old postal route between Oslo and Bergen. It was where the travellers would leave their horses behind and take boats the rest of the way to Bergen. Lærdal is also a fantastic place for trying the foods from the Sognefjord region, including potatoes, berries, and cider. 

    You can read about Lærdal on our dedicated travel guide page. 

    Lærdal Travel Guide

    Aurlandsfjellet Tourist Road

    In the summer months, it’s possible to take the Aurlandsfjellet Tourist Road across to Aurland instead of going through the tunnel. 

    Aurlandsfjellet Tourist Road

    Lærdal Tunnel

    Tunnel

    Welcome to the world’s longest road tunnel! The Lærdal Tunnel is 24.5km (15.2 miles) long. The tunnel was constructed between 1995 and 2000 and cost $113 million USD. The tunnel does not have emergency exits; there are emergency phones every 250 metres as well as 15 turning areas for buses and semi-trailers. There are rooms in the tunnel with food and supplies in case anyone gets stuck in there. The tunnel has high air quality through ventilation and purification. 

    It incorporates features to help manage the mental strain on drivers. Every 6km there is a cave to separate sections of the road. The lighting varies throughout the tunnel and caves to break the routine.

    Aurland Municipality

    Aurland municipality is perhaps one of the most visited municipalities in Norway. After all, it is home to the famous Flåm village as well as the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Nærøyfjord. The main industry in Aurland is agriculture, with goats’ cheese being an important product from here. Tourism is also a major industry. 

    Aurland

    It is worth driving into the village of Aurland. In many ways, it is more charming than Flåm. Aurland is home to Vangen Church, a historic stone church from 1202. The fact that it is built in stone and not wood signifies that the area must’ve been of importance around the time it was built. Aurland is also home to the Aurland Shoe Factory, where the pennyloafer was invented.

    Aurland Travel Guide

    Flåm

    Located at the end of the Aurlandfjord, a branch of the Sognefjord, Flåm is a gorgeous little village. Many people come to Flåm to do the Flåm Railway, regarded as the most beautiful train journey in the world. This train journey goes from Flåm through the valley and up the mountains to Myrdal, located close to the Hardangervidda National park. Myrdal is also where you board the train to Bergen or Oslo. Besides the train ride, there’s a gorgeous ferry journey from Flåm to Gudvangen. It takes you on the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Nærøyfjord – something you shouldn’t miss.

    Flåm has a population of 350, though on a summer day there will be several thousand people in the village. Seriously. The Flåm Railway has become incredibly popular – it’s sold out months in advance. Additionally, Flåm is becoming a major cruise port.

    Flåm Travel Guide

    Gudvangen

    Village

    Gudvangen is a small village with a population of around 120. It is a popular tourist destination due to its proximity at the end of the Nærøyfjord. The popular Gudvangen – Flåm cruise stops here, and many people also come to visit the Viking Village in Gudvangen. The Viking Village is a recreated village as Gudvangen is believed to have been an important trading place for the Vikings. 

    It is worth driving into Gudvangen (approx 5 mins off the E16) and stopping in front of the Nærøyfjord. The Nærøyfjord is the narrowest branch of the Sognefjord, only 250 metres at its narrowest and 12 metres at its shallowest. The fjord is 20km long. It is UNESCO World Heritage-listed as it is one of the best representations of what a fjord looks like.

    Stalheim Hotel & Stalheimskleiva

    Historic Hotel

    The site where the hotel is has been an important place for hundreds of years. When the Royal Postal Road between Oslo and Bergen was established in the 17th century, this hotel was where the postal workers would stop to rest. 

    The hotel as it is known today opened in 1885 with 10 rooms. The hotel burned down in 1900, 1902 and 1959. The current hotel building you see today is from after the 1959 fire. Today the hotel is a high-end historic hotel where many famous people have stayed. It also has arguably one of the best views of any hotel in Norway, but good luck trying to see it. They don’t allow visitors to come in and take pictures without paying or having coffee. 

    Stalheimskleiva is a 1.5km (1 mile) stretch of road that leads from Stalheim Hotel down to sea level towards the Nærøyfjord. It was one of the country’s first roads built according to the new road engineering requirements that came around 1850, the so-called chaussee, with a maximum gradient of 1:20. Around 1,000 men built the road over 7 years. The road was a motorway for cars going in both directions, which was of course dangerous. It was eventually replaced with the two tunnels you’ll be driving through. The road then became a one-way tourist road, however in 2020 part of the road was in danger of collapsing due to landslide. In 2021, the road closed for all motor vehicles for the foreseeable future. This is due to the poor condition of the road and the extensive damage done by traffic. The road is on the conservation plan, so it’s being repaired and may become a hiking trail instead. 

    Across from the Stalheim Hotel is an open-air museum with farmhouses collected from the area. There are also a number of hiking trails starting from around the hotel, so it could be a good option for spending the night. 

    Voss Municipality

    Voss municipality is an inland municipality with about 90% of the area mountains over 300m (1000ft) above sea level. Because of that, the municipality is a popular place for people from Bergen to go skiing. Voss is home to the largest ski resorts in Western Norway. The area has been settled for at least 3,000 years, with people coming here for the rich valleys, waters, and animal life. Voss was also largely an isolated municipality, meaning it has kept its own unique culture and traditions. 

    Oppheim Lake

    Lake

    After leaving Gudvangen, you will drive up the Nærøy Valley. This is part of the UNESCO World Heritage area. The stone they are mining here is anorthosite, a rare stone found in large amounts in this valley. The stone is typically used on the roads because it is reflective. 

    The drive through the valley is short; you will then take two tunnels to get up the mountain. However, before you get into the tunnels, you will see a red hotel and a hairpin-turn road on the hillside. 

    As you drive along the lake, you’ll drive through the village of Oppheim and past the Oppheim Church. 

    Vinje

    Village

    Vinje is a small village located at the junction of the E16 and the Rv13, which runs over the Vikafjellet mountains to Vik by the Sognefjord. This is a long but beautiful detour; the road does close in winter, though. In Vik you’ll find the Hopperstad Stave Church (one of Norway’s 28 remaining stave churches) as well as some other historic buildings. 

    Tvindefossen

    Waterfall

    It is worth stopping and taking some photos of Tvindefossen Waterfall. It will be clearly marked with signs as you approach it. The waterfall is 152m high and has two streams (tvinde=twin). In the late 1990s, the waterfall acquired a reputation for having special powers of reviving sexual potency, so it became common to see visitors from the U.S., Japan and Russia visiting and filling containers with water. 

    Voss

    If you are following the E16, you will take a bypass and not see Voss at all. It is possible to drive into Voss, park by the lake, and see some of the town. 

    Voss has a population of around 14,000 people. The town is known for its cultural traditions in folk music, art, handicrafts, and traditional foods. Voss sits on the shore of the lake Vangsvatnet.

    During World War II, the town was bombed by the Luftwaffe and almost all the buildings were destroyed. 

    In Voss it’s worth visiting Voss Church. According to legend, the people of Voss was forced to convert to Christianity by King Olav (later Saint Olav). A stone cross can be seen by the lake which is believed to have been erected by St. Olav himself. The church was built in 1277 and is one of the only buildings to survive World War II. 

    In Voss you can do the Voss gondola to the top of the mountain, where the open-air museum is. 

    Voss Travel Guide

    Evanger

    Village

    Evanger has a well-preserved village centre that is believed to be one of the better-preserved villages in the area. Most of the wooden houses are from the late 19th/early 20th centuries. Evanger is known for its production of cured meat because the village is home to several companies that specialise in the production of traditional meats such as pinnekjøtt (dried, salted rib of lamb), cured lamb, and sausages. 

    Bolstadøyri

    Village

    Bolstadøyri is located at the end of the fjord. When the old postal road came through here, this is the point where the workers would leave their horses and take a boat to Bergen. This has always been an important meeting place for the courts as well as a trading post. 

    Vaksdal Municipality

    Vaksdal is a small industrial municipality in Western Norway. The coat-of-arms show three black shuttles for weaving. The shuttles were chosen to represent the textile industry of the municipality. The municipality is located alongside the fjord and is also very mountainous. 

    Dale

    Village

    Dale is a small industrial village with a population of around 1,100. The village was built around the Dale power planet and factory that were founded and constructed in the 1870s. The machines were brought over by boat from England – carding machines, spinning machines and 200 looms, as well as finishing and dyeing machines. When the factory was built, there was only a homestead here. However, by the end of the 19th century the factory had 500 employees and the village had 1,000 inhabitants. At its peak in the 1950s and 1960s, Dale had a population of 4,000. 

    Dale is where the Dale of Norway company is based. This is arguably Norway’s most famous textiles company. They make the sweaters for the Norwegian Olympics Team and are known for their classic patterns. There is an outlet store in Dale, if you wish to visit that. 

    Osterøy

    Island

    Soon you will reach the wider part of the Osterfjord, which you will follow for the journey into Bergen. Across the fjord is an island called Osterøy. Osterøy is the largest inland island in Norway at around 330km2. Around 8,000 people live on the island and it is largely an agricultural island. You’ll see the bridge to the island soon.

    Vaksdal

    Village

    Vaksdal is a small village located on the fjord. Like Dale, it is an industrial town. In the late 19th century, the Vaksdal Mølle (Mill) opened here, utilising the hydropower in the region. This is where flour would be made. At the time it was built, it was the largest mill in Northern Europe. 

    Bergen Municipality

    Welcome to Bergen! We are now on the outskirts of Bergen municipality. 

    Trengereid

    Village

    Trengereid is the next village you will pass on your way into Bergen. Like the other villages along the fjord, Trengereid was established in the late 19th century around a factory. The factory (Trengereid Fabrikker) specialised in ribbon and lace production. 

    In Trengereid you will see the round-a-bout that leads off to the Hardangerfjord and Hardanger Tourist Road. However, you have been driving from Oslo, so probably save that for a separate road-trip. 

    Arna

    Village

    Arna is one of Bergen’s eight districts and was incorporated into the city in 1972. Around 14,000 people live in Arna and are connected to the city centre of Bergen by the railway. The train between Bergen and Arna takes only 10 minutes as it cuts through the mountain Ulriken; the road follows the coastline and takes 30 minutes to get to the same place. 

    Bergen

    Welcome to Bergen! Bergen is Norway’s second-largest city and is regarded as the Capital of the Fjords. 

    Bergen Travel Guide

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Culture & Everyday Life, Norway

    Norwegian Christmas Traditions

    Norwegian Christmas Traditions

    Many think that December will be this dark, quiet, and depressing month, but it is quite the opposite. In fact, it is one of the most lively and colourful months of the year. This is thanks to Christmas and how excited people get for the holiday seasons. The cities and towns are often decorated for Christmas by the end of November. The trees and buildings are decorated with lights, the churches have regular Christmas concerts, and the larger cities will have a Christmas market.

    In this article...

    Historic Overview

    “Jul” is the Nordic word for Christmas. It comes from the Norse “Jòlnir”, which is an alternative name for Odin. It was celebrated during the second moon of the winter half of the year. The animals for slaughter were the fattest, flour had been processed, all the autumn work was complete, so it was time to celebrate. Traditions varied, but the farmers would have a beer drinking party. The tradition of drinking is symbolised by a drinking horn on the 25th of December on the Runic calendar, with an upside-down drinking horn depicted on the 13th of January, indicating the beer should be finished by then. The nisse is a mythological character associated with the Winter solstice, and it has become a figure of the modern day Santa Claus.

    It All Starts with the Julebord

    Julebord is the first sign of Christmas. The word directly translates to Christmas table and it is where companies, organisations and groups of friends gather to have a Christmas party. They often book a table at a restaurant, making it very difficult to find a spot for dinner throughout December. If you are visiting in December, book your table very early! We tried to get a table in Bergen in the first week of December and everything was booked out.

    The First Sunday of Advent

    The beginning of Christmas is typically marked with the first Sunday of Advent. Many houses will have a star-shaped lamp in their window called the “Julestjerne”. The first Sunday of Advent is also the lighting of the first of four purple candles called “Adventslys”. There are songs and poems written for each of the four Sundays of Advent. Traditionally the candles were purple, but now they use any colour. Click here to see the Advent candles on Mt. Floyen in Bergen.

    Advent calendars are super popular in Norway and every company imaginable will make an advent calendar. Another popular thing to do is make a gingerbread house, or “pepperkakehus”. Kits are sold in supermarkets, stencils are sold in kitchen shops, or you can make the whole thing from scratch. Bergen has the world’s largest gingerbread village, which is made by kids from all the local schools.

    Each Sunday leading up to Christmas is celebrated with lighting of the candles, choirs, and community gatherings.

    Lille Julaften (23 December)

    Then comes the 23rd of December, which is known as “Lille Julaften” or “Little Christmas Eve”. Many families will have a small tradition together, whether it be decorating the Christmas tree, making a gingerbread house, or reading risengrynsgrøt. That is a hot rice pudding served with sugar, cinnamon, and butter. An almond is hidden in the pudding and if you get it in your portion, you win a marzipan pig! For the travellers, you can go to any supermarket and buy a marzipan pig. The 23rd is also when you decorate the Christmas tree. This tradition isn’t as common as it used to be, with many opting to decorate earlier like in other countries, but traditionally in Norway the tree was decorated on the 23rd.

    A common show to watch in Norway on Little Christmas Eve is Grevinnen og Hovmesteren, Dinner for One. It’s a British sketch comedy. The German television station Norddeutscher Rundfunk recorded an 18-minute performance of the show in 1953 and it eventually became the most repeated TV program of all time. The sketch depicts the 90th birthday of Miss Sophie, who hosts a yearly dinner for her friends. Due to her old age, she has outlived them all, so her butler James impersonates and drinks instead of each of the guests. As he goes around the table, James gets noticeably drunk, and repeatedly asks Miss Sophie: “The same procedure as last year, Miss Sophie?” to which she responds, “the same procedure as every year, James!”.

    The Norwegian TV station NRK has been broadcasting the 11-minute Swiss version every 23rd of December since 1980.

    https://youtu.be/eaFFywm18P8

    Julaften (Christmas Eve)

    Christmas Eve, or the 24th of December, is the main day for Christmas in Norway. It is known as “Julaften” or “Christmas Eve”. In the morning some may attend church service while others will be out shopping for last minute Christmas presents. At around 5pm families gather for their traditional Christmas dinner, and the presents are opened afterwards. This is marked by church bells ringing around the country.

    Presents are delivered by the “Julenisse”, which is the Norwegian version of Santa. Before that, though, they must dance around the Christmas tree and sing traditional carols. The “Sølvguttene” or “Silver Boys Choir” appear on television for their annual concert, and at 5pm the church bells ring throughout the cities to announce the official start of the holiday. The most famous song to sing while dancing around the tree is Så går vi rundt om en enebaerbusk meaning “here we go round a mulberry bush”.

    https://youtu.be/9kgfwaiKr00

    On television, NRK shows Three Gifts for Cinderella. It has been shown every year since 1975. It has become a holiday classic in Norway even if it isn’t a typical Christmas movie. The movie is based on Bozena Nemcova’s version of Cinderella, with a feminist approach in which the prince actively pursues the skilled hunter Cinderella before she falls under his charm.

    https://youtu.be/aA0D57uIZ_0

    In almost every store in Norway you’ll see a julenisse in some form. They are a common thing to buy in December. They are also used to decorate the milk cartons for the month of December.

    If you are in Norway on the 24th of December, expect it to be dead quiet with many restaurants, pubs and shops closing.

    Christmas Day

    The 25th of December is a quiet day to spend with your family. Kids will typically watch the Norwegian movie “The Journey to the Christmas Star” or one of the American Christmas movies. Rice porridge is served at midday.

    Romjul

    The days between Christmas Eve and New Years Eve are also very quiet, and some shops will remain closed until the 27th of December. Norwegians typically use this time to hike, ski, or visit family and friends. There is more activity in the city centre with locals choosing to go out to dinner. The Norwegians have a word for this period – romjul. There’s no English translation, but it basically means “that time between Christmas and New Year when no one is really sure what they should be doing”.

    Norwegian Christmas traditions

     

    The Julebukk or “Yule Goat” is a goat made out of straw that is created at the beginning of December to be used as a Christmas ornament. Its oldest representation is that of Thor’s magical goats, which would lead him through the night sky. The Julebukk was also a spirit that would protect the house over the Christmas period and it was tradition to sacrifice a goat to the Gods during the time span between the Winter Solstice and the New Year. After the goat was sacrificed, adults then donned guises to personify the Julebukk. Animal masks and skins were donned in an activity called “hoodening”. Participants would parent from house to house, disguising their voices, singing and offering spiritual protection. They would receive small amounts of money, food and drink in exchange for their blessing. This tradition doesn’t exist today, but it is common to see the Julebukk hanging outside doors.

    Enjoy Christmas in Norway!

    This guide should help you plan your trip to Norway well. Embrace the holiday season and try to take part in as many Christmas activities as possible.

    Let me know in the comments if you have been in Norway during Christmas and have any tips!

  • Culture & Everyday Life, Foodies Guide, Norway

    The Most Popular Norwegian Christmas Foods

    The Most Popular Norwegian Christmas Foods

    Visiting Norway in December? You have to try some Norwegian Christmas foods! Christmas in Norway is a huge celebration and many choose to celebrate through their food choices. Many restaurants will switch to Christmas menus for the months of November, December and January, giving you plenty of opportunity to try classic dishes.

    Here are the most common foods to try in Norway over Christmas.

    In this article...

    Ribbe

    Click here for an image and recipe.

    Typically, meat is eaten at Christmas. In older times meat was expensive so was reserved for special occasions (such as Christmas). It was also common to eat the entire animal and not let anything go to waste, so be prepared for some stranger meat options further down.

    “Ribbe”, or “ribs”, is the most popular Christmas eve dinner all over the country. The ribs are typically pork and it is commonly eaten with sauerkraut, red cabbage, patties, sausages and potatoes. The dish became popular at the end of the 18th century when potatoes came to Norway and then it became more common to eat pork. Before that, pigs were not common because the feed was similar to human diet, so raising pigs was seen as wasteful. The potato solved this problem and paved the way for ribbe.

    Pinnekjøtt

    Norwegian Christmas foods

    Click here for a recipe.

    “Pinnekjøtt” is the most popular Christmas Eve dinner in Western Norway. The word literally means “stick meat” and is racks of lamb or mutton cured in brine or sea salt. It has a unique flavour that comes with the preservation methods of curing, drying and smoking. The technique is developed from the same method used to dry fish. You will see it in supermarkets but also at any Norwegian restaurant in cities like Bergen on the west coast.

    Smalahove

    Click here for pictures and a recipe.

    If you are feeling brave you can try “smalahove”. It is a sheeps head, and it is rather literal. To create it, the skin and fleece of the head is torched, then the brain is removed, the head is seasoned with salt and then air-dried. The head is boiled until cooked. It was originally associated with the lower classes in Norwegian society and is more common in western parts of Norway. Some restaurants on the west coast do serve the full head, though you need to share it amongst multiple people.

    Lutefisk

    Click here for a recipe.

    “Lutefisk” is THE Christmas dish. Lutefisk is made by mixing lye of potash and water and then soaking dried cod (stockfish) in it. Some claim it has a strong, pungent odour, but I think they’ve never had good lutefisk before. It is not smelly or slimy like people will tell you. I’ve been told so many times by people from the Mid-West that lutefisk is slimy, but it isn’t! I get it every year at Bryggeloftet in Bergen and find it very similar to eating regular cod. It is typically served with crispy bacon on top, making it even better.

    It has been a popular dish since the 16th century when it was a common Catholic dish. Meat was always considered expensive, so it was reserved for special dinners (such as Christmas). You will find it at any traditional Norwegian restaurant or can take a look at a supermarket in the fresh seafood section.

    Risengrynsgrøt

    Click here for pictures and a recipe (in Norwegian)

    “Risengrynsgrøt” is a hot rice pudding and is one of the more traditional dishes. In fact, in Norwegian folklore it is what the “fjøsnissen” barn gnome eats. The Fjøsnissen was a mischievous and slightly sinister character that was important when Norway was a farming community. You must stay friends with him; if he was treated well, the farm would be prosperous. If he got unhappy, bad things could happen such as him striking the dairy cattle dead. In the countryside, many people put a bowl or risengrynsgrøt and juleøl out for the barn gnome to eat. In Northern Norway, many prefer to have cloudberry cream instead.

    Kransekake & Krumkake

    Both are popular cakes over Christmas. You can buy miniature Kransekake in supermarkets, and you can also get Krumkake. Some pancake stalls at Christmas markets will sell Krumkake too.

    Click here for a kransekake recipe and click here for a krumkake recipe.

    Gløgg

    “Gløgg” is the most popular drink to have over Christmas. It is a warm, spicy drink like the German Glühwein. It can be made with red wine, but most Norwegians prefer the non-alcoholic version you can get in a supermarket. The Christmas markets often have gløgg, but it’s not so common at restaurants or pubs.

    Both are popular cakes over Christmas. You can buy miniature Kransekake in supermarkets, and you can also get Krumkake. Some pancake stalls at Christmas markets will sell Krumkake too.

    Click here for a kransekake recipe and click here for a krumkake recipe.

    Juleøl

    It is possible to buy “juleøl” or “Christmas Beer” over the holiday period. They are typically released by the major beer companies.

    Click here to see the “Best in Test” Christmas beers of 2022.

    Julebrus

    The most popular drink over Christmas is most definitely “julebrus”, or “Christmas soda”. Each drinks company makes its own and claims to be the best, though locals argue about which julebrus is better: the brown coloured julebrus or the red coloured julebrus. Every year the local newspaper will rank julebrus. Here is the “Best in Test” for this year.

    Akevitt

    It is also common to drink “akevitt”, the Norwegian liqueur, on Christmas. Many brands will release a special Christmas edition of the akevitt.

    Pepperkake

    “Pepperkake” is the Norwegian cousin to the gingerbread cookie. Many parents bake them with their children, but every supermarket will sell them.

    Click here for a Pepperkake recipe.

    Marzipan
    Marzipan figures are super popular at this time of year and can be bought in any supermarket. Most popular is the marzipan pig.

    Enjoy Christmas!

    Hopefully this will help you plan your trip to Norway over the Christmas period. Be sure to try some Norwegian Christmas foods! Let me know in the comments if you have tried any of these foods or have any recommendations.
  • Eidfjord, Hardangerfjord, History, Kinsarvik, Norway, Utne

    Hidden Secrets at Historic Kinsarvik Church

    Hidden Secrets at Historic Kinsarvik Church

    When driving along Highway 13 between Eidfjord and Odda, you’ll pass through the village of Kinsarvik. You wouldn’t really know it was a village, let alone an important Viking-era settlement, because it has now been transformed into something of a holiday park with water activities for kids and cabins to rent. But look a little closer and you’ll see a stone church down by the water. This is one of the oldest churches in the region and hints at the historic importance of Kinsarvik.

    I find the Kinsarvik church fascinating. Tucked away by the fjord, this small unassuming church carries almost 1,000 years of history. So, when you are doing your road-trip, be sure to stop by the church and admire its uniqueness!

    Here is some information about the Kinsarvik Church.

    Eidfjord Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    In this article...

    The Earliest Church

    Kinsarvik Church is the oldest stone church in the Hardanger region and used to function as the main church for the region. It is strategically located at the junction of the Hardangerfjord and the Sørfjorden, which leads to Odda, so locals could row their boats into Kinsarvik and attend church.

    The earliest records of the church date back to 1298, but the church wasn’t built then. The stone church isn’t even the first church on the site; it’s believed a wooden church stood here around 1050. The wooden church was likely a ‘post church’, which is the predecessor to the stave church. The difference between them is that the post church has its beams going directly into the ground, while stave churches rest on stone foundations. Post churches don’t survive anymore because, well, putting posts directly into the ground meant the wood would rot. Stave churches are an evolution of the post church in that regard because the stone protects the wood from rotting.

    The stone church was built to replace the old wooden church around 1160, and remains of the wooden church have been found underneath. Building in stone was very expensive and only reserved for churches of importance. Think of Stavanger, Bergen, Trondheim and Oslo with their well-preserved stone churches. These were all major cities. So, using stone at Kinsarvik indicates that this was an important place.

    Romanesque details at Kinsarvik Church

    Church Style

    The church is built in a Romanesque style with a rectangular nave, and the foundation walls are about 1.5m (4ft 11 inches) wide.

    Archaeological excavations have found there was a fire in the church around the year 1180. This was around the time of the Norwegian Civil War, and there were two major groups – the Birkebeiner and the Bagler – fighting against each other. It is documented that the Birkeners ravaged the area, so it may be them who caused the fire.

    The choir was built after the fire, likely around the 13th century.

    Kinsarvik Church

    Exterior Detailing

    If you look at the church, you’ll notice that all of the portals, window openings and walls have been retained from the Middle Ages.

    Something that is curious is the window high up on the west gable. It is a window leading up to the church attic. It is here that they used to hoist the local ship sails and masts to store during the winters.

    Renovation

    The church had its last major renovation in 1880 during a time when ancient Norwegian sites were being restored to their former appearance. At Kinsarvik Church, much of the old furniture was removed and the church went back to its medieval feel.

    Inside the Church

    The church has many unique interior qualities. The first is the large number of cavities that can be found in the church walls. There were used as places to hide valuables, but Kinsarvik Church has an unusually high number. Considering Kinsarvik used to be a Viking settlement, maybe they had to deal with regular raids?

    Kinsarvik Church

    Another important item inside the church is the antemensalet (decorations in front of the altar). The one at Kinsarvik Church is considered one of the most valuable paintings of North European medieval art. It shows the saviour on the cross and the crucifixion, and above the cross is written “Jesus of Nazareth, King of the Jews”. Around the edge is “Neither of God nor man is this image, as you see. But it is an image of both God and man”. The painter was bad at Latin and made several mistakes. The original can be see at the Cultural History Museum in Bergen, but a copy is inside the church.

    Kinsarvik Church

    However, my favourite part of the interior of the church is the artwork on the walls. I’ve been lucky enough to go inside Kinsarvik Church, and I was taken away by the interior artwork. The church used to be whitewashed, but someone scraped away some of the plaster. A piece of painting from the Middle Ages came to light.

    The painting on the south wall shows a bishop and is painted from floor to ceiling. Meanwhile, on the north wall, there is the archangel Michael. Underneath is a devil who is trying to tip the scales over to their side with a boat shake.

    Michael and the weight of the soul were a common motif in Danish chalk painting in the Middle Ages, but this is the only one of its kind in Norway. I remember the priest telling us that he wished they’d remove it because modern churchgoers don’t exactly want to see a giant devil, but I kind of hope they keep it!

    Kinsarvik Church

    Church Legends

    There is a prediction that the church will collapse during a service. This almost happened on the 7th of May 1865, right after Reverend Irgrens had finished his sermon the church began to shake. Cracks in the walls widened and chalk sprinkled down from the walls. People panicked and tried to get out, and some were injured (though not seriously). The pastor then used it to give a speech that no one can escape from Gods will.

    Another event that happened here was in December 1793, when a major flood hit the region. At Kinsarvik Church, a large part of the cemetery was washed away by water and the coffins floated out into the fjord. Legend says that the Engel Simonson Ringøy, who died in 1739, floated ashore in his boat dock on Ringøy. The coffins were brought back in and placed under the floor of the church. Under the floor of the choir is a crypt where parish priest Løgit, his wife and children lie.

    Visiting Kinsarvik Church

    Unfortunately the church is not usually open to the public, but they do host special concerts and events there. Otherwise, it is possible to park by the church and admire it from the outside.

    You can view events on their website here: https://ullensvang.kyrkjer.no/Kyrkjelydane/Kinsarvik

    As you can see, Kinsarvik Church is a fascinating historic building that is tucked away in this resort village.

    It’s easy to visit here if you are taking the ferry across to Utne – the ferry is about a 1 minute walk from the church. Click here for my article about Utne.

    Have you visited the church? Let me know in the comments!

    Eidfjord Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide
  • Bodø, Gildeskål, Norway, Ørnes

    Visiting Gildeskål’s Historic Church Site

    Visiting Gildeskål’s Historic Church Site

    The Gildeskål Old Church Site was one of the hidden surprises for me when I was on the Coastal Road from Brønnøysund to Bodø. I love historic sites in Norway, and I was completely unaware of the religious and historic important in this tiny remote settlement just south of Bodø. The location is just so beautiful and the complex itself is very interesting, so I recommend adding this to your coastal road-trip!

    Here is some historic information about Gildeskål to help you plan your visit.

    BodØ Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    In this article...

    Historic Importance of the Gildeskål Church Site

    This complex (Gildeskål kirkested in Norwegian) is incredibly well-preserved and is generally regarded as one of the best preserved church sites in Northern Norway. The complex consists of a medieval stone church from the 1200s, the new church from 1881, the old rectory from the 1800s and two storehouses.

    The site history covers a period of over 1000 years. It is believed that the site was a gathering place in the pagan times. In fact, the ‘Gilde’ in Gildeskål means ‘feast’, so it’s likely that a pagan feast hall was located where the church or farm is today. Objects found here date back to the Viking Age, and the church was likely built by Vikings to crush the old pagan religion.

    Now let’s talk about each of the buildings.

    Gildeskål Old Church

    The highlight is (of course) the medieval stone church called ‘Gildeskål Old Church’, which is generally regarded as the best-preserved of the northern churches built in the Middle Ages.

    It’s believed the first church was built in wood in the 11th century, around the time Norway was becoming Christianised. It was common to build Christian churches on pagan worshipping sites in an attempt to convert the pagans.

    The church was later rebuilt as a stone church. This indicates how important the region of Gildeskål must’ve been, because stone was an incredibly expensive material to build with. Therefore, it was only used for the most important churches. Think of stave churches – they were built in wood and the only surviving ones are in very remote locations, where there was no need to rebuilt them in stone.

    It’s not known exactly when the stone church was built. After all, the church was first mentioned in written sources in 1589. However, the construction techniques on the oldest wall indicate that the church was built between 1130 and 1160. It is believed that the church is one of two stone churches King Øystein (1088-1123) had built when he travelled north in 1114.

    The church is like other stone churches built around the same time. It is built in a simple Romanesque style with arches and walls that are almost 1.5 metres thick.

    There are carved dragons heads on the ridge of the roofs that may have been a way of warding off pagan spirits, as seen on stave churches.

    The church did have a dome, but it was removed in 1890 when it was in danger of falling down.

    Cemetery

    The cemetery wall around the church is very interesting. Both it and the church are built in marble and mica slate that comes from the local area. The cemetery has been expanded many times, most recently in 1888. It is estimated that up to 10,000 people are buried in this cemetery.

    Church Interior

    Because the church was closed in the 1880s to make way for the new church, the interior has been incredibly well-preserved. For example, on three of the benches are the names of the farms in the village painted on them.

    At the far end of the aisle is a narrow bench called “the poor member” and was for church members who didn’t have their own farm.

    Hanging in the church is a ship from 1762. It has the name ‘Josva’ painted on it and is a model of a frigate that was a ship of the line in the Danish/Norwegian fleet.

    New Gildeskål Church

    In the mid-19th century, a law was passed in Norway that churches had to seat 30% of the congregation. Instead of expanded on the old stone church, a new wooden church was built next to it. The church was consecrated in 1881 and is built in a longhouse Gothic style. It sits on a hill overlooking the fjord.

    Inside the new church is the altarpiece from the old church; it dates back to 1713. On the ceiling, artist Harald Sund has painted a starry sky.

    Elias Blix

    The church is also known as the psalm composer Elias Blix’s old church. He was born here in Gildeskål in 1836. Elias Blix was a Norwegian theologian, hymn writer and politician. He wrote many hymns and was responsible for translating the New Testament into Nynorsk. He was a proponent of the Nynorsk language and wrote hymns in the language.

    Storehouses at the Rectory

    Rectory

    In the old rectory we find Gildeskål’s collection of relics from the old settlement. The main building is a 33m longhouse built in the 18th century. All the old buildings are listed. It is still used as a service residence for the parish priest.

    The two stone houses adjacent to the building are from the middle of the 18th century.

    Memorials on the cultural trail, plus the incredible view!

    Walk the Cultural Trail

    There is a short cultural trail that goes from the old church down to the waterfront. Along the way, you can see burial mounds, old stone cairns, and the old path that people would take from the piers up to the church. The flora in the area is known for being unique for this far north; there are a number of orchid species here.

    The view from the new church is lovely – you can see islands and even shipwrecks!

    Gildeskål Cultural Trail

    1. Gildeskål Old Church
    2. Gildeskål Main church
    3. Gildeskål Rectory
    4. Gildeskål Village meeting place
    5. Old Church Stone pathway towards Inndyr
    6. Burial Mounds
    7. Boat piers
    8. Jetty
    9. Stone Pier
    10. Eider House

    A very detailed website for the cultural trail has been made, which you can view here: https://gildeskal.vandringen.no/no

    The Village Inndyr

    The Gildeskål Church Site is located just north of the village Inndyr. Inndyr was historically an important shipping port. It is located on the old shipping channel and has a shipyard with a slipway for larger boats, a mechanical workshop, concrete mixing plant and several small businesses.

    It is known that Inndyr has been a lively community since the Middle Ages. The Inndyr Homestead is of great importance for the village as it was both a residence for the nobility as well as a productive farm.

    Another building of interest is Angellgården, which is in the centre of the village. The house is gorgeous; it dates from 1590 and was originally built as a dowager house. The building was moved to its present location in 1760 and it was extended.

    You can find more information about the unique architecture of Angellgården here: https://arkitekturguide.uit.no/items/show/1085

    You’ll pass it on the road to Gildeskål Church, but note that the building is now painted red (in the pictures it’s yellow).

    The Church Site Today

    Today the Gildeskål Church Site is managed by the Nordlands Museum, which opens the properties during the summer months for visitors.

    Visiting Gildeskål

    The site is located approximately 3km (2 miles) north of Inndyr. It is about 10km (6 miles) off the Fv17, which is the Coastal Tourist Road running from Brønnøysund to Bodø. Signs on the highway indicate when to turn left and make your way towards Gildeskål.

    The complex is open from mid-June to mid-August daily from around 11am to 4pm.

    You can visit the museum site here: https://nordlandsmuseet.no/no/museumsanlegg/gildeskaal

    If you want to spend some time in Gildeskål, here are some places that you can visit: https://kystriksveien.no/places/gildeskaal/highlights/?lang=en

    There is a parking lot on the property close to the old church.

    BodØ Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide
  • Norway, Oslo, Walking Guides

    Oslo City Centre: Self-Guided Walking Tour

    Oslo City Centre: Self-Guided Walking Tour

    Oslo is the perfect city for walking. The city is compact; it’s easy to get from one side to the other in less than half an hour. I find Oslo one of the most interesting cities in Norway to wander. 

    When I hear people talk about Oslo, they often mention that it’s a lot more modern than they’d expect. That’s certainly true; it doesn’t have the historic wooden buildings you find in Bergen or Trondheim, and neither does it have the beautifully decorated buildings you find in Stockholm and Copenhagen. Maybe that’s why many choose to skip extensively exploring Oslo. Most just go to the museums and then leave.

    I think there’s a lot to be discovered in Oslo by walking. In my previous self-guided walk for Oslo, which focused on the old town Christiania, I found so many hidden treasures of the old city.

    This walk, however, is definitely the beaten path. Focusing primarily on Karl Johans Gate, the main pedestrian street, you’ll feel the crowds and tourists here. However, rather than focus on shops and eateries, here I’ve tried to pull out and find the historic buildings that can be found in this part of the city.

    Here’s my self-guided walk for Oslo city centre. 

    In this article...

    Oslo Travel Guide

    You can find a detailed overview of Oslo, including practical, historic and travel information on our dedicated travel guide page. 

    Oslo Travel Guide

    Downloadable Version of This Guide

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided walks on our online store. 

    View at the Store

    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Information about facilities along the way

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the region & towns
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Facilities including supermarkets, toilets, petrol, hotels, cafes, restaurants with addresses.

    Start: Oslo Opera House

    This walk begins outside one of the most famous buildings in Oslo: the opera house. The Oslo Opera House opened in 2008 and quickly won awards for its architectural beauty. The building is covered in white granite and white Italian marble, while the interior is primarily in oak to bring warmth to the space.

    The building is designed so you can walk up the roof.

    It is possible to take a guided tour inside the opera house, and I highly recommend it.

    Behind the opera house you’ll see the new Munch Museum peaking out. 

    Deichman Library

    This is Oslo’s brand-new library: it opened in October 2020. The library brand, Deichman, is actually the oldest public library in Norway. The name comes from businessman and collector Carl Deichman, who gave his private collection of books for public use in Oslo. The first Deichman library opened in 1785.

    The decision to build a new library building came in 2001, but it took some time to find the location and decide on the building style. The old Deichman building is close to where the 2011 terrorist attack happened. 

    Oslo Central Station

    We are now at Oslo Central Station. The station is built on the site of the older Oslo East Station. In total, there are 19 tracks with connections to all over Norway as well as Sweden.

    The first railway in Norway was the Hovedbanen between Oslo and Eidsvoll. A temporary station was built in Oslo while pans were made to design a better building. The population in Oslo was growing quick (it doubled to 150,000 between 1875 and 1890), so a large building was needed. The older part of the station that you see is part of this expansion and is the old Oslo East Station. Today the older part of the building is called Østbanehallen (East Railway Hall) and is a food hall and shopping mall.

    Palehaven

    The name of this square you see in front of the station is Palehaven or ‘Christian Frederiks Plass’. This name connects to the older city of Oslo, Christiania (covered on a separate walking tour). Christian Frederik was the Danish-Norwegian crown prince who attempted to become the independent King of Norway after the end of the Danish Union in 1814. However, Norway was promised to Sweden, so the country became part of the Swedish Union instead.

    The garden originally belonged to the Palace, the country’s first royal residence in recent times, and Christian Frederick was the first king to live here. The garden was laid out in the 18th century and the old Palace building was completed in 1848. The garden was known for its large collection of crops, but very little of it remains today. Few pictures of it exist.

    You can view old photos of it here: https://no.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pal%C3%A9et

    The Tiger Statue

    The Tiger of Oslo is a famous monument outside the Central Station. In the 19th century Oslo earned the nickname ‘The Tiger City’ from a poem called Sidste Sang by Bjørnstjerne Bjørnson, which describes a fight between a horse and a tiger. The horse represented the safe countryside, while the tiger represents the dangerous city. For many Norwegians travelling into the capital from the country, Oslo must’ve felt like a loud, strong, and potentially dangerous place!

    The statue was gifted to Oslo for their 1000-year anniversary in 2000.

    Behind Central Station (not visible from here) is the high immigrant neighbourhood called Grønland. It has lots of great restaurants with cuisines from all over the world. However, Grønland has also been the subject of debate due to its almost ghetto-like status. The existence of Grønland divides public opinion; some love the diversity, while others don’t like how crime-ridden it has become.

    Amerikalinjen Building

    The building you see here is the old Norwegian America Line Headquarters. This was a Norwegian liner company founded in 1910 to operate ships between Norway and the USA. The company was established to assist in the mass emigration to the United States, operating between Norway and New York. Eventually the company also had ships going from Norway to Canada. After World War II, the company was primarily involved in cruise traffic but was eventually sold off into other companies and no longer exists today.

    The building has been transformed into a high-end boutique hotel called Amerikalinjen.

    Karl Johans Gate

    Karl Johan gate is the main boulevard that links Central Station with the Royal Palace. It is named after the French General Jean-Baptiste Bernadotte, who took the Swedish name Karl Johan during the Napoleonic Wars. He became the Crown Prince of Sweden in 1810 and then was the King of Sweden and Norway between 1818 and 1848. 

    The street is a combination of several older streets.

    The eastern section, where we are now, was part of the old city of Christiania, while the wider western section was built during the 1840s as an avenue connecting the Royal Palace to the rest of the city.

    Most of the buildings on this end of the street are from the late 19th century.

    The street today is a little touristy, but there are some historic places along the street.

    As you enter Karl Johans Gate, one of the first shops you see to your right is Helly Hansen, the famous Norwegian outdoor wear brand.

    The Bazaars

    The Baazars were built in 1840-1859 in a neo-Romantic style. Before the bazaars were constructed, this is where the butchers would have their stalls. However, in the mid-19th century there was increasing demand to improve the hygiene conditions of the area. So it was decided to build 24 brick stalls. It was later expanded. At the beginning of the 20th century, there was a plan put forward to tear down the bazaars and build the Oslo Stock Exchange here. Eventually the plans were rejected, but this sparked one of the city’s earliest debates about demolition or preservation.

    Today you’ll find lots of restaurants and cafes in the bazaars. There are still some markets here.

    Oslo Fire Station

    The old Oslo fire station was built in the 1850s in a neo-Romanesque style and was planned to fit into the bazaars. It was the city’s first fire station; yes, it took that long to get a permanent fire station! The tower was used for drying hoses and also operated as a fire watch tower. However, it was too low so they used the Cathedral tower instead. The station was manned 24 hours a day until 1902, and Oslo’s main fire station was completed in 1939, making this one obsolete.

    Oslo Cathedral

    Oslo Cathedral is the main church for Oslo. It was built in 1697 (but rebuilt between 1848 and 1850) after the second church (in Christiania) burnt down. The cathedral is used by the Norwegian royal family and the Norwegian government for public events.

    Be sure to look on the corner of the church. Here you’ll see a stone from Oslo’s first cathedral; over 1000 years old. Unfortunately the cathedral no longer stands, but its ruins can be seen at Gamle Oslo (self-guided walk coming soon). If you look further up the tower, you’ll see small square windows. This is where the fire brigade had their watch.

    The stained glass windows in the choir are by Emanuel Vigeland (brother to famous sculptor Gustav Vigeland).

    Outside the cathedral is a memorial for the victims of the 2011 terrorist attack. 

    The cathedral is open during the day and is free to visit. 

    Stortorvet

    In the 17th century, when Oslo’s city wall was located here, this big square was where the farmers entered and sold their goods. Stortorvet was officially inaugurated in 1736 and was the main town market until 1869.

    Across the street is the restaurant Stortorvets Gjestgiveri. The building is from the 18th century and used to be an inn where travellers would rest before entering the city of Christiania. The street in front is called Grensen, which means ‘the border’. It’s where the old city wall used to be.

    Today it’s famous as a flower and produce market.

    The statue is of the Danish-Norwegian King Christian IV, who ruled Norway around 1600. He named the city after himself: Christiania.

    Egertorget

    This marks the point where the old and new sections of Karl Johans gate meet; you will notice there’s an almost bend in the road. Egertorget grew in the mid-19th century as a residential area after the two streets were connected.

    Here you’ll see the large Freia neon sign from 1911. This is Norway’s chocolate brand. Norwegians link of Freia as a ‘little piece of Norway’. There is a Freia shop along Karl Johans gate.

    Norwegian Parliament

    Norway’s Parliament building is from 1866 and almost seems to counter the Royal Palace at the other end of Karl Johans gate. If the flag is flying, parliament is in session. Today the king is a figurehead, and Norway is run by a unicameral parliament and prime minister.

    The name of the Parliament in Norwegian is Stortinget, an Old Norse word.

    It’s possible to take a guided tour of the parliament

    Grand Hotel & Cafe

    On the other side of Karl Johans Gate is the Grand Hotel, where the Nobel Peace Prize winner stays every year. Grand Hotel was established in 1874, but has undergone several renovations since then. The current appearance is from around 1915. 

    You can view old photos of Grand Hotel here. 

    Grand Café is an equally historic café and for many years this is where Oslo’s intellectual and creative elite would meet, perhaps most famously Henrik Ibsen. Inside the café is a mural showing all the regulars of Grand Café.

    Eidsvolls Plass

    The large park in front of the Parliament is called Eidsvolls Plass. ‘Eidsvoll’ refers to the town north of Oslo where the Constitution was written in 1814.

    The western part is nicknamed Spikersuppa by the locals after Christiania Spigerverk paid for a refurbishment in 1956. The area was originally a marsh area until the 1840s, when it was laid out in connection with the establishment of Karl Johans gate.

    On this stretch of Karl Johans gate you’ll see several beautiful buildings. These were built up in the mid-19th century as a place for the wealthy to live. Today they have been joined together and are a shopping mall.

    There are statues of many important Norwegians in the park, including Christian Frederik (the Danish crown prince who tried to be Norwegian King), Johan Sverdrup and Carl Joachim Hambro.

    Every Christmas they close the park and turn it into a Christmas Market.

    Close to the parliament you’ll see three public toilets painted to look like the French flag. This is a work of art called Liberte. On the roof are the slogans from the French Revolution: Liberty, Equality and Brotherhood. Inside the toilets, speakers play audio recordings of Franklin Roosevelt, Charles de Gaulle, and King Haakon VII.

    University of Oslo

    The University of Oslo is the first university building in Norway, dating from 1854.

    The paving of the square dates from 1931. The cobblestone pattern is characterised by neoclassicism, just like the University buildings. 

    During World War II, the square was used for parades and propaganda events by the Nazis.

    In the square is a statue of Professor Anton Martin Schweigaard, a lawyer, economist and politician who was a professor at the University for almost 30 years. He was elected to the Storting for almost 30 years and is described as one of the most important political and intellectual figures in Norway during the 19th century.

    Royal Palace

    Straight ahead we can see the Royal Palace. This Neoclassical building was completed in 1849 and is the residence of the Norwegian Royal Family. It is possible to visit inside with a guided tour.

    National Theatre

    The earliest theatre in Oslo is the Christiania Theatre, which was founded in 1829. However, the theatre we see today had its first performance in 1899. The theatre was a private institution until 1929, when the government started providing it with financial support.

    The theatre is often considered the home for the plays of Henrik Ibsen.

    Statues of Norway’s most famous playwrights – Ibsen and Bjørnsen – are outside the theatre.

    Underneath the theatre is one of the major train stations in Oslo: The National Theatre station. From here you can take the train or metro all over the city, and the buses from here go to Bygdøy.

    Oslo City Hall

    Construction for Oslo City Hall began in the 1930s. At the time, the dark brick was considered very on trend. However, the city hall construction was delayed during World War II, and by the time the city hall opened int he 1950s, it was considered a little old-fashioned. Today, the appearance of the building does divide opinion. Some say it looks like a block of brown cheese!

    Inside the city hall is a completely different feel. Leading artists designed different rooms, including Edvard Munch, and I highly recommend taking the time to walk around inside (free to do). 

    If you circle the inner part of the city hall (outside), you’ll seen wooden motifs representing the Old Norse sagas. Descriptions explain their meaning in English. 

    The city hall is where the Nobel Peace Prize is awarded every year. 

    Oslo Harbour

    The Oslo Harbour is a new development that forms part of the ‘Fjord City’ urban renewal project. Before this, it was a busy highway.

    Facing the water, if you look to the right you’ll see the Nobel Peace Centre and the National Museum. The waterfront buildings form Aker Brygge, an area with very hip bars and restaurants. At the end of Tjuvholmen, an art district with some of the most expensive apartments in Oslo. 

    To the left, you’ll see Akershus Fortress. 

    End of the Walk

    If you want to continue your walk, Turn left and follow the main road. You’ll end up at Christiania Square, where you can begin our Christiania walking tour. Or you can visit Akershus Fortress and do our Akershus walking tour. 

    Oslo Travel Guide

    You can find a detailed overview of Oslo, including practical, historic and travel information on our dedicated travel guide page. 

    Oslo Travel Guide
  • Hardangerfjord, Norway, Odda, Ulvik, Utne

    Add Utne to Your Hardanger Road-Trip

    Add Utne to Your Hardanger Road-Trip

    Back in June of 2022 I got the last-minute opportunity to lead a group to Utne in Hardanger. I’ve been to Hardanger many, many times (my husbands family is from Ulvik), but I’d never made the time to take the ferry across to Utne. So, of course, I took the job and off I went with a group of Americans. Boy, was I surprised.

    I had read about Utne and knew it was picturesque and charming, but I was surprised by just how lovely it was. We took the ferry across from Kinsarvik and then walked to the Hardanger Folk Museum. After having a guided tour through some of the outdoor buildings, we had lunch and free time to explore before we took the ferry back to Kinsarvik.

    You don’t need a guide to do Utne, and you can definitely overnight there. Utne doesn’t get the big tour buses and masses of caravans that other places in Hardanger get, so it almost feels like a well-kept secret being there. The village is very popular with Norwegians, though.

    Utne in Hardanger
    Looking out at Utne from the Folk Museum

    Utne is easily one of the most picturesque villages that you’ll find in Hardanger. Unlike many other towns that have succumbed to modernisation and development, Utne has preserved its old streets and wooden houses. It also has some of the most spectacular views out to the Hardangerfjord.

    I’ve put together an overview of the highlights of Utne so you can be convinced to add it to your Hardanger road-trip!

    In this article...

    Eidfjord Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    First off, how do you get there?

    Utne is easily accessible by ferry or road (though it does look very isolated on a map!). There is a ferry route linking Utne to both sides of the fjord. One ferry goes from Kinsarvik to Utne, while the other goes from Kvanndal to Utne.

    It is possible to drive to Utne via Odda or Jondal, but the roads are narrow and the drive is time consuming. If you can, take a ferry.

    Tip – I would strongly recommend leaving your car at the ferry pier and taking the ferry over as just a person. It’s free for people to take the ferry without a car, and Utne is so walkable you don’t need a car.

    Utne's History

    Being a small village of 146 people, there’s no extensive records of Utne’s history. However, people have lived here for hundreds of years and they relied heavily on the fruit production that came to Hardanger in the 13th century. Utne is regarded as one of the best places to grow fruits, so the villagers relied on production every year to support themselves.

    These days Utne is less about fruit production and more about tourism, but fruit production is still extremely important to the area.

    Utne Hotel

    The first building you’ll see off the ferry is the Utne Hotel. The Utne Hotel is the oldest hotel in continuous operation in Norway, founded in 1722. Part of the hotel is from the 18th century, but a large part has been expanded and added on to. The largest development was in the late 19th century, when the hotel got its characteristic Swiss style of architecture. The last extension was in the 1930s.

    What’s fascinating is that the hotel has historically been managed by strong women. One of the old hostesses has earned the nickname ‘Mother Utne’ and she ran the hotel for 70s. She was apparently known all over Europe for her hospitality. There’s a silver wreath in the restaurant dedicated to her.

    There are only 17 rooms in the hotel, and each one is unique. It makes it feel extra special and exclusive, but this is also reflected in the price. Rooms go for about 5000 NOK a night.

    You can also visit the hotels restaurant and have a meal or take part in their cider tasting.

    If you want to stay somewhere a little more budget friendly, try the Hardanger Gjestegård. This historic guesthouse dates from 1898 and feels like a museum inside with its wooden panels and old furniture. It’s located about 10km out of Utne.

    You can visit their website here.

    Utne Church

    The white wooden church just above the hotel is not a historic church; it was built in the late 19th century after the locals wanted to stop taking the boat across to Kinsarvik Church. They had to raise the money to build the church themselves, so it did take some time. The church seats about 300 people. It’s just a few minutes walk from the ferry pier.

    Hardanger Folk Museum

    The Hardanger Folk Museum is one of the true delights of visiting Utne. The museum is a little hilly, but it’s well worth the climb.

    Reconstructed farm

    The museum was founded in 1911 and features a reconstruction of a traditional cluster farm. The oldest building is a medieval log house with a central open fire. The museum also has shops, businesses and mini factories from all over Hardanger.

    You can visit their website here.

    Birch roofing

    Preserved painting inside one of the farm houses

    Old beer bowl

    Down by the water are some well-preserved boathouses with traditional Hardanger boats.

    Hardanger fiddles on display

    Meanwhile, the indoor exhibitions focus on Hardanger folk costumes and folk music, in particular the Hardanger fiddle.

    Hardanger bunads

    Hardanger embroidery

    Inside you’ll also find a lovely cafe. A special treat about the museum is that they produce their own cider and juice, which is only available from the museum. This also brings me to the next reason to come here…

    Apple trees can be seen everywhere!

    Incredible Hardanger Fruits

    Utne is perfectly situated if you want to try the fruits grown in the Hardanger region. 1km from Utne is Norway’s largest fruit warehouse where plums, apples, pears and other fruits are sorted and packed. The region is also famous for its cider production, and you can buy cider from most farms.

    Utne is actually considered one of the best places in Hardanger for fresh fruit, and for many years the village relied on its fruit production.

    I am a huge fan of apples from Hardanger, and can never turn down the locally made apple juice. The ciders can be quite sweet, but they are also delicious.

    Hike it off!

    Utne is surrounded by short and long hikes. Close to the ferry pier you’ll find a map of all the hikes in the area.

    Eidfjord Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide
  • Harstad, Norway, Walking Guides

    A Heritage Walk through Harstad’s Historic Town Centre

    A Heritage Walk through Harstad’s Historic Town Centre

    Harstad is a large city in the far north of Norway. While it’s not as historic as its neigbhours Bodo and Tromso, the town has some charming historic buildings from the mid-19th century heyday of shipping. There are lots of terrible post-war buildings, too. So I wrote this guide to show you the highlights of Harstad.

    When I visited Harstad in June 2021 to plan this walk, I was surprised by how empty the town was. There are many shopping malls around the town today, so the inner town centre is in decline. Harstad isn’t exactly a place where people come to walk around; it seems to be more of a stopover on the way to popular natural attractions. But that’s why I wanted to try and figure out if there was any history in Harstad, and if so, where was it?

    Large parts of the historic buildings have been destroyed by fire or war, but there are some true historic gems to be found in Harstad.

    A huge help for this guide was LokalHistorieWiki, a Norwegian Wiki page where history enthusiasts can upload information about their town, broken down by street and house number. The group in Harstad is a very enthusiastic one, and there is a wealth of information and photographs there! The site is only in Norwegian, but I’ve included some links so you can look at the old photos.

    Here is a guide to the historic buildings in Harstad town centre.

    In this article...

    Harstad Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Harstadhamn

    Located just north of the city today is Harstadhamn, a small cove that served as the basis for the foundation of Harstad.

    Harstad wasn’t the original settlement in the area. Ever since the Viking Age there has been a settlement in the area around Trondenes Church, today a 10 minute drive from Harstad town centre. It was an important political centre in the Viking Age and was the main town for hundreds of years.

    Harstad began to overtake Trondenes in importance after Bergen’s monopoly on trade declined and traffic increased along the northern coast. Harstad had a better natural harbour than Trondenes, so gradually the town moved.

    The first settlement took place around Harstadhamn. The small cove was perfect for the smaller ships and here the sea-related business flourished as skilled and forward-looking people moved to the area.

    Havnegata

    Havnegata is where all the industry around Harstadhamn developed. Many large factory buildings used to be here; today pretty much all of them are gone.

    You can see more of the buildings if you walk down Havnegata, but the nicer walk is to head to the pier and follow the promenade towards the city.

    You can find some old photographs and maps at LokalHistorieWiki (click here).

    Harstad Library and Culture House

    Library operations have been in Harstad since 1848. The current library is incorporated into Haarstad’s Cultural Centre. The culture house was built in 1992 and is the city’s main venue with 1,000 seats.

    Havnegata 5B

    Next to the Culture House is a building that has kept its old factory appearance. This building is from 1916, when it was a factory for the Midnight Sun Preserving Company. Today the building is part of the University and works as a student hostel. Not a bad place for students to stay!

    Havnegata 9

    HarstadNumber 9 is arguably the most beautiful house on the street. It was built for the Store Norske Spitsbergen Kulkompani in 1919 and is now for the student union.

    Havnegata 23B - Gammelbrygga

    Here we find another old warehouse. This one is a well-known landmark that has been threatened with demolition for the past 10 years. A support group, Gammelbrygg’s Friends, has been established to research the pier and work to protect it.

    There’s still some disagreement about when it was built and what it was used for, but it is nice to see in the city.

    You can see some old photos of the pier at LokalHistorieWiki (click here).

    Harstadsjøen

    Looking out towards Harstadsjoen

    Harstadsjøen is the name for the old settlement of Harstad. As steamships began to overtake sailing ships, Harstadsjøen was a better spot for them to dock. The first merchant houses were developed along Strandgata because of its close proximity to Harstadsjøen, and many of them had harbour access.

    The yellow building is the Swedish Port Authority’s expedition building from 1913. It has architectural style in both Neo-Baroque and Art Nouveau, and the building housed many consulates for around Europe as well as many representatives from the Norwegian shipping companies.

    Strandgata

    Strandgata (Beach Street) is the street where many of Harstad’s most distinctive buildings stand. It is also mostly a pedestrianised street with lots of the local buisnesses.

    This street is fascinating because it really tells Harstad’s history. People came from all over Norway to try and establish a successful business in Harstad after the boom in shipping and trade. Most of the businesses along the street were established by out-of-towners coming here to try their luck.

    Here are some of the older houses along Strandgata.

    Strandgata 19

    Strandgata 19 is a bit of a detour away from the direction we are going, but it is worth it.

    This house was built by pharmacist Harald Dahl in 1894 in the Swiss style of architecture. The pharmacy operated here for 56 years. The Swiss architecture is some of the most beautiful in Harstad.

    Strandgata 12

    Strandgata 12 opened as a bookstore in 1902 by a woman called Mathilde Bakke, and since then it has been a car workshop and a children’s clothing store, amongst other things.

    Strandgata 10

    This is one of the older houses in Harstad; built in 1896. It was owned by a woman called Hilda Oldenborg, who ran a business in embroideries, yarn and a colonial that sold coffee. ‘Colonial’ was the name of a grocery store with imports from overseas (i.e. the ‘colonies’).

    Strandgata 8

    Number 8 is another early 20th century wooden building. It was owned by Elias Hoel, a pioneer in the town who came to own many of Harstad’s buildings. The locals recognise it as the Harstad Bookshop, which operated from 1925 until 2001 in the building.

    Strandgata 6

    This house was built by the merchant Peder Thorbergsen, who received a deed to the plot of land in 1894. The building used to have a dock out the back.

    Strandgata 4

    Strandgata 4 was built in 1891, though it was damaged by fire in 1913. When it was brick, the art nouveau style was used instead. The house operated as a smokehouse and warehouse.

    Strandgata 2

    The other brick building is number 2. It was for Gunder Erikens, a watchmaker who came to Harstad in 1902 and built a wooden house. The house had a wharf out the back; the house practically stood on the edge of the beach. On the street level was the goldware, watch and optics shop, and there was an apartment on the upper level.

    The property was damaged by fire because some boys anted to make their own New Years Fireworks, which led to an explosion.

    Rikard Kaarbø's Plass

    Rikard Kaarbø is the man who is considered to be the founder of Harstad. He was the initiator and contributor to a number of businesses in Harstad that contibuted to Harstad getting city status in 1904. Amongst other things, he established the first newspaper in Harstad. Rikard Kaarbø also worked with many of the steamship companies.

    Rikard Kaarbø's Plass 2

    This is the most striking building in Harstad. It is beautiful detailing in Art Nouveau and Neo-Gothic. It’s funny to think that the building was built for the Harstad Beer and Wine Association in 1906, but the bank took it over in 1917!

    In 2010, this building was voted ‘most beautiful’ by the Harstad locals.

    Rikard Kaarbø's Plass 4

    Number four is where businessman Elias Hoel lived from 1903.

    The square gained prominence in the 1920s and 1930s but not for good reasons. With high unemployment and poverty grappling Harstad, it was where the men who had nothing else to do gathered.

    Rikard Kaarbøs Gate

    This street has some well-preserved wooden buildings. Businessman Elias Hoel was the one who regulated the street and he owned most of the plots on the street. This was also Harstad’s first car-free street.

    The street passes through the square, so some of the buildings are close to number 2 (the beautiful brick building)

    Rikard Kaarbø's Gate 14

    This building is located across the street from the beautiful brick building. It’s worth checking out because it is Harstad’s oldest wooden building; built in 1870.

    Rikard Kaarbø's Gate 10

    Number 10 was built by master baker John Sumstad in 1913 and it was a bakery for around 20 years before being converted into a hotel called Hotel Royal.

    Rikard Kaarbø's Gate 8

    This building is from the 1880s and was used by Rikard Kaarbø as a post office.

    Rikard Kaarbøs Gate 6

    Number 6 was built by Elias Hotel in the 1890s and was operated as a hotel and restaurant called Britannia.

    Torvet

    Torvet is likely the oldest square in Harstad. Sadly most of the original buildings are gone but you can see them in photos.

    You can view photos of Torvet at LokalHistorieWiki (click here).

    Torvet 7

    This is the most interesting building on Torvet. It was built around 1900 and was known as Holmgården. The wooden building still stands, but a shopping mall has been built around it.

    Harstad Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    End of the walk!

    We end our walk down by Torvet 7. This is by the water and also very close to where the Hurtigruten docks in the morning.

    I hope you enjoyed this heritage walk through Harstad. The goal was to show there’s more to Harstad than meets the eye, and that the historic buildings can still be found in the city.

    Travelling to Harstad on Hurtigruten?

    You probably have enough time to make it to Rikard Kaarbøs plass and back, now that you know the historic centre of Harstad is just a stones throw away.