Voss

  • Aurland, Bergen, Flåm, Gudvangen, Myrdal, Practical Tips, Voss

    Norway in a Nutshell… in a nutshell

    Norway in a Nutshell... in a nutshell

    Anyone planning a trip to Norway will come across the term ‘Norway in a Nutshell’ at least once in their research. It is typically regarded as the number one thing to do in the country, in fact.

    When I started as a guide eight years ago, I would often have to lead groups on the Norway in a Nutshell route. Even still today as a tour leader, Norway in a Nutshell is an essential part of our tours across Norway. I can’t even count the number of times I’ve been on the Flåm Railway. I’ve done Norway in a Nutshell in all its forms, both on my own, with private tours and with larger groups. I’ve done it all throughout the year and dealt with cancellations, delays, and bad weather. Am I jaded? I don’t think so. If anyone came to visit me in Bergen, I’d probably recommend they do Norway in a Nutshell. I may just not join them!

    I often get asked about the trip. How should it be done? How does it work? I’ve read many blogs that have done it once or twice and then provide feedback based on that, and I find a lot of information online is wrong or misleading. So, I’ve put together this quick guide. It’s a no-frills, straight-to-the-point guide based on experience of having done it at least 100 times.

    Enjoy!

    In this article...

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    What is Norway in a Nutshell?

    Norway in a Nutshell is the brand name for a range of self-guided itineraries that aims to show you the best of Norwegian nature in a short amount of time, and without climbing mountains. The itineraries are organised on public transport and put together by a company called Fjord Tours. When you book one of the itineraries, they provide you with the public transport tickets in a nice little package to complete the itinerary. There’s no guide leading you around or special private chauffeur; you are riding public transport with everyone else.

    The various itineraries

    There are a number of different variations of the journey you can do. The classic trip, or the most popular one, starts and ends in Bergen. It goes like this:
    Bergen to Voss on the public train
    Voss to Gudvangen on the public bus
    Gudvangen to Flåm on the scenic fjord cruise
    Flåm to Myrdal on the Flåm Railway
    Myrdal to Bergen on the public train

    The round trip from Bergen takes around 10-12 hours depending on the day and season.

    It is also possible to start or end the trip in Oslo and do it as a day trip to Bergen. However, that is a very long day and should be broken up with a night in Flåm.

    Highlights of the Trip

    Fjord cruise Gudvangen to Flåm

    The fjord cruise

    The fjord cruise is my absolute favourite part of the journey. The ferries they use are the electric ferries that have won design prizes for how effortlessly they suit the fjord environment. The Nærøyfjord and Aurlandsfjord are spectacular, too. Be outside for as much of this journey as possible!

    Scenery on the Flåm Railway

    The Flåm Railway

    The Flåm Railway has been voted one of the most beautiful train journeys in the world. The railway climbs from sea level to 860 metres above sea level through the Flåm Railway, and the scenery is incredible. The railway makes one photostop by a waterfall, too.

    Myrdal Station

    Myrdal is not accessible by road, and the scenery here is rugged and almost above the tree line, giving an Arctic feel.

    Bergen Railway

    The Bergen Railway is Northern Europe’s highest stretch of railway and crosses mountains and plateaus.

    Note that some blogs still say that the trip includes Stalheimskleiva. It does not! The road closed during COVID and will remain closed as it is heavily damaged and no longer suitable for vehicles.

    Scenery on the Flåm Railway

    Booking the Trip

    Why book through FjordTours?

    Almost every blog will tell you that it’s cheaper to book these tickets on your own, and that’s true. It is cheaper to book the exact same route on your own. However, the extra cost of booking through FjordTours is for the ease of doing it all in the one spot. For some, that may be worth the extra cost rather than sitting down and figuring it out yourself.

    In some cases, the price difference is negligible (100-200NOK) considering the extra hassle.

    Why book through an agent or third party?

    If you want to do the standard route, book it through FjordTours. If you are looking to make a lot of customisations, then I’d recommend booking through a third party. Primarily someone who knows the area well and can help you. Someone like me!

    Our travel services

    I do not recommend booking a ‘private, customised package’ through somewhere like TripAdvisor or GetYourGuide. Those are, in most cases, a total rip off. You will still be doing the exact same route as those who booked through FjordTours. The only cases where the private packages are worth it are if they have added a ton of extra stops and features, and drive you in a nice vehicle.

    How to book it yourself

    If you want to save some money and book it yourself, here’s how to do it:
    Trains: Book the trains through vy.no
    Bus: Book the bus through skyss.no
    Ferry & Flåm Railway: Book these through norwaysbest.com

    Just note that you can’t book far in advance for the train and bus, so you have to wait until closer to the trip.

    Another advantage of doing it yourself is that you can add extra activities, such as a zipline tour, bus trip to Stegastein viewpoint, and so on. Visit the website norwaysbest.com for ideas on what to do.

    Fjord cruise Gudvangen to Flåm

    Isn't this touristy?

    Yes. This is by far the most popular thing to do in Western Norway in summer, so expect to be sharing everything with hundreds of other people. It can become chaotic in some places in the peak season.

    If you have the time, try customising the trip so you don’t travel at the busiest times (i.e. the middle of the day) and overnight in places. Once the cruise ships leave, many of the places (especially Flåm) become practically empty. An agent can also help you with this!

    If you want to avoid crowds, I would recommend doing something like Hardanger in a Nutshell instead. You don’t see the ‘famous’ spots, but the scenery is just as beautiful.

    Bergen Railway

    Navigating the journey

    Is there information along the way?

    On the ferry and Flåm Railway they do have visual or audio guides, but for the rest of the journey there is no additional information.

    How easy is it to get between each means of transport?

    Very easy! The most confusing will be in Voss when you look for the buses, but you simply have to follow signs through the station towards the buses. There are orange pillars listing each bus number and destination, so you just have to find the one heading towards Gudvangen. Everywhere else is very self-explanatory and the walk between each spot won’t take more than two minutes.

    Get the Guide!

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    Should I just use a rental car?

    No. The two big highlights of the trip are the fjord cruise and the Flåm Railway, and both of those become a hassle if you are using a rental car. However, getting from Bergen to Gudvangen is nice with a rental car, though it follows the exact same route as the train. If you use a rental car, park in Gudvangen and take the fjord cruise to Flåm and then the railway as a round trip. You can then book a bus back to Gudvangen. See? It sounds strange!

    I love road-tripping in Norway – most of The Hidden North is dedicated to road-trips! – but if you want to see Norway in a Nutshell, you should do it through public transport. Use the car for other special places in the fjord region.

    Practical Information

    On board the Flåm Railway

    Services on board

    Wifi: The train from Bergen to Voss and then Myrdal to Bergen should have Wifi, but it doesn’t always work. The ferry has Wifi.

    Phone reception: You may lose phone reception for stretches of the Flåm Railway, but otherwise everywhere else has good signal.

    Toilets: Can be found on the trains and ferry. There are also restrooms in Flåm and inside the station in Myrdal.

    Food: No food on the trains for sale. The ferry does have some options, but if you have time in Flåm I recommend heading to the bakery to pick up supplies. Myrdal station is open in summer and has a few options for sale.

    Luggage transportation

    If you are travelling Bergen to Oslo, I recommend using the service Porter Service to transport your luggage from one city to another. You can take luggage on everything, but it’s such a hassle. The service is affordable and works very well!

    Visit their website here: https://porterservice.no/

    Photo stop on the Flåm Railway

    What to wear

    You will be indoors most of the day, but on the ferry and once on the Flåm Railway you can go outside to take pictures, so a good coat is recommended.

    Where should you spend the night?

    I recommend either the Fretheim Hotel in Flåm or the Stalheim Hotel.

    Flåm Railway in winter

    Does the trip run in winter?

    Yes! In fact, winter is much nicer in my opinion. Less crowds, snowy mountains. Sure, it’s cold – but you’re in the north! Just keep an eye on the schedules; everything runs less frequently in the low season. You also won’t see waterfalls in winter.

    When is the best time to go?

    I love going in May. There is still snow on the mountains, but the waterfalls are running strong from snowmelt. Flowers bloom in May and trees get their leaves. The mass crowds of tourists start coming in late May/early June. September/October is also wonderful – there’s still waterfalls, but now we have the beautiful autumn colours and less crowds.

    What if I want a guide?

    It’s important to note that it is a not a guided trip! It is a set of tickets and is more of a self-guided trip. The tickets don’t include seat reservation, but that’s not possible on almost every means of transport (except for the train between Bergen and Voss and Myrdal and Bergen). Honestly, you don’t need to spend a couple extra thousand NOK to have a guide with you. I’m working on a self-guided book about each of the stops. That’s all you need 😊

    Which side is best?

    Bergen to Voss: sit on the left

    Voss to Gudvangen: sit on the right

    Gudvangen to Flåm cruise: be outside!!

    Flåm Railway to Myrdal: sit on the right

    Myrdal to Bergen: sit on the left for the first half. Sit on the right for the second half.

    That's all!

    That’s everything I could think of for this guide. If you have any questions or require any additional information or help, please write in the comments below. 

    Be sure to visit our travel guide pages for all the towns mentioned in this article. 

    Bergen Travel Guide

    We think Bergen is the best city in the world! Be sure to spend a good amount of time in Bergen and enjoy everything this city has to offer. 

    Bergen Travel Guide

    Oslo Travel Guide

    Oslo is Norway’s capital and a natural place to visit on any trip here. 

    Oslo Travel Guide

    Flåm Travel Guide

    No ‘Norway in a Nutshell’ can skip over the village of Flåm!

    Flåm Travel Guide

    Get the Guide!

    We have a printer-friendly guide to the popular Norway in a Nutshell trip. This guide includes information about each point of interest, including historical overview and images. 

    You can find the guide over on our store. 

    View our guide
  • Aurland, Bergen, European Highways, Fagernes, Flåm, Hønefoss, Lærdal, Norway, Oslo, Road-trips, Vang, Voss

    Drive it Yourself: Oslo to Bergen on the E16

    Drive it Yourself: Oslo to Bergen on the E16

    The E16 between Oslo and Bergen follows the historic road between east and west Norway that has existed for thousands of years. Over the centuries the road has gradually been modernised, but traces of the past remain.

    While the E16 is the longer way between the two cities, the road is lined with historic monuments, including stave churches, runestones, and lodgings. It makes for a great, scenic road-trip!

    Here’s our guide to the E16 highway. 

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    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

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    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Information about facilities along the way

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the region & towns
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Facilities including supermarkets, toilets, petrol, hotels, cafes, restaurants with addresses.

    The Drive: Oslo to Bergen on the E16

    This drive begins in Oslo. 

    Oslo Travel Guide

    Read more about Oslo, Norway’s capital, on our dedicated travel guide page. Click the button below. 

    Oslo Travel Guide

    Sandvika

    Neighbourhood

    The first neighbourhood you drive through is called Sandvika. While it is technically part of Oslo city, it is in many ways regarded as its own community. The population is approximately 130,000.

    Claude Monet visited the city in 1895. During his visit, he painted the city. Perhaps the most famous work from this visit is “Sandviken Village in Snow”, which shows the Løkka Bridge in the foreground with the hill Kolsås in the background. The bridge still stands today.

    The area of Sandvika has existed since for thousands of years. The Sandvik grounds were rich fishing grounds that provided an important supplement to the farms in Sandvika.

    Sandvika is home to Scandinavia’s largest super mall – the Sandvika Storsenter – with 190 stores and a total area of 60,000 square metres or 650,000 square feet.

    Hole Municipality

    The municipality of Hole is situated around the Tyrifjord, where the soil is fertile and suited to growing fruit, berries, and other agricultural products. The coat-of-arms depicts the four Norwegian Kings who lived in the municipality in the 9th to 11th centuries. The most famous of the four is St. Olav (Olav Haraldsson), though Harald Hårdrade is a close second for fame – he was the one credited with ending the Viking Age at the Battle of Stamford Bridge in 1066. The other three kings are Halvdan Svarte (820-860), Sigurd Syr (-1018), and Harald Hardråde (1015-1066). Harald Hardråde is the king who lost at the Battle of Stamford Bridge in 1066, which is considered to be the event when the Viking Age ended.

    Hole is important in Norwegian history. Archaeological finds from the Roman and Migration periods are numerous, and Hole is known as one of the traditional landscapes from the Viking Age and plays a prominent role in the Norse sagas.

    Stein Church Ruins (Stein Kirkeruin) are located at Steinsfjorden. The church was constructed in the latter half of the 1100s. By the second half of the 1500s, the chapel was no longer in use. There are some historic churches in the area: Bønsnes Church is a medieval church from 1100 and Hole Church is probably from 1200.

    Utøya

    Memorial

    As you drive along the Tyrifjord, down on your left is the island Utøya. This was the site of the terrorist attack that happened in Norway in 2011. It is possible to take a detour down to the memorial site. On GPS it is marked as “Minnesmerke Utøya”.

    Tyrifjord

    Lake

    The Tyrifjord is a lake (not a fjord like the name suggests). It is the fifth largest large in Norway with an area of 139km2 and a maximum depth of 295m. It is one of Norway’s most species-rich lakes. The lake used to be part of the sea, but as the land has risen it has become landlocked. In the fjord, free fishing without a licence is accepted based on tradition and custom. Brown trout is caught in the lake, though crayfish is also popular. 

    Sundvollen

    Village

    Sundvollen is a village located along the eastern part of the Tyrifjord. The name comes from the name of a farm that used to be here. Sundvollen is most noted for its hotels. Sundvolden Hotel is one of Norway’s oldest hotels – it was mentioned in written sources dating from 1648. Kleivstua Hotel was a coaching inn in 1780 which catered to travellers going between Christiania (Oslo) and Ringerike. It is on the Old Royal Bergen Road, the historic road between Oslo and Hadeland. The road is also part of the Old Pilgrims Route from Oslo to Trondheim. Understandably, there were many travellers coming through here. They would stop at one of the hotels for food, accommodations, and to give their horses a rest. Unfortunately both of the hotels have been renovated extensively, so there’s no trace of the original lodgings. 

    Petroglyphs from the Bronze Age have been found approximately 100m from the E16 and show ship figures, circuit figures and bowl pits. 

    In Sundvollen you can hike to “Kongens Utsikt”, a scenic viewpoint overlooking the Tyrifjord. 

    Norderhov Church

    Historic Church

    Norderhov Church is a medieval church that was built in 1170. The church is built in local sandstone and limestone in a Romanesque style of architecture. The church was built on a former pagan court for the god Njord, and that’s where the name Norderhob comes from. The church was historically the most important church in Ringerike. 

    Across the road from the church is Norderhov’s old rectory, which is now the Ringerike Museum. The museum has runestones and its collection of the private belongings of Jørgen Engebretsen Moe, a Norwegian author most famous for ‘Norske Folkeeventyr”, a collection of Nowegian folk tales which he edited in collaboration with Peter Christen Asbjørnsen. 

    The church and vicarage are known for their close association with the vicar’s wife Anna Colbjørnsdatter (1667-1736), who legend says tricked the Swedes by getting the Colonel drunk. This gave the far smaller Norwegian-Danish force an opportunity to inflict a defeat on the Swedes. This was in connection with the Battle of Norderhov in 1716. She then received heroine status and is one of the very few female heroes in Norwegian history. She was married to historian and parish priest Jonas Ramus and they are in the crypt under the church. Her portrait can be seen inside the church. The pulpit is from 1582 and is considered one of Norway’s oldest preserved pulpits. 

    Hønefoss Travel Guide

    You don’t drive through Hønefoss on the E16; it is approximately a five-minute drive into the town. However, this is the first major town that you pass on the drive, so it can be a useful rest stop. 

    Hønefoss is regarded as the centre of Ringerike. The town is located by a waterfall and is founded on the sawmill business that arose from the waterfall in the 17th century. Hønefoss is home to several factories and other industry, with Norske Skog Follum, a timber company, having its headquarters here. Dating from 1873, Norske Skog Follum was one of the largest producers of newsprint in Europe until it closed in 2012. 

    HØNEFOSS Travel Guide

    Follum

    Village

    Follum is a small village after Hønefoss on the western side of the Ådal River. It is on the old road that led to the Ådal Valley. The name comes from the oldest farm in the area. 

    Ådal Valley

    Valley

    You are now driving through the Ådal Valley. 

    The first church built in Ådal was a stave church built during the 15th century. It is mentioned in the Diplomatarium Norvegicum in 1462. The church was eventually removed to make way for a larger, more modern church. 

    Viker Church is located on the western shore of the Sperillen Lake and is from 1702. The pulpit, altar and crucifers from the old stave church are inside Viker Church. 

    Valdres Natur og Kulturpark

    Preserve

    You are now entering the traditional district of Valdres, which is situated between the Gudbrandsdal and Hallingdal valleys. The river Begna runs through the municipality. 

    The traditional Valdres region is located approximately halfway between Oslo and Bergen. The valley has the Jotunheimen mountains to the west and the north. Historically, Valdres has been an agricultural economy, but tourism is becoming more important – especially for skiing. 

    Sør-Aurdal Municipality

    The name comes from the valley in which it is located. The coat-of-arms represents a medieval reliquary that is based on the one found at Hedal Stave Church. It has two dragons heads in the design since Sør-Aurdal is one of only two municipalities in Norway that have two stave churches that are still in use. The colour blue represents the two river systems that have historically been important for the logging industry and sawmills. 

    Olav Haraldsson, later St. Olav, travelled through Valdres in 1023 and visited Reinli. At the time, there was a pagan temple at the same location where the stave church stands. 

    One of the highlights of the municipality is Hedalen Stave Church was built in 1160 but rebuilt in 1699. An old legend says that the valley was abandoned during the Black Death and the church was discovered by a bear hunter. A hide is hanging in the church, although there is only a small part of it left as visitors have cut away pieces over the years. We will pass the turnoff for it a little later. 

    Bagn
    Village

    Bagn is the administrative centre of Sør-Aurdal. This area saw extensive fighting during World War II as advancing German forces were stopped in Bagn. The battles in the valley were extensive. 

    In Bagn you can find the Bagn Bygdesamling, a small museum that includes farmhouses, a sawmill, a flour mill, and other buildings. The museum is on a preserved farm. Next to Bagn Church is an intact shop from 1881, which may have been the largest business in Valdres. The shop is open during the summer holidays and before Christmas. 

    Bagn Church is the main church in the valley and seats 350 people. The earliest church in the area was mentioned in 1327, but the church was not new that year. The first church was likely a wooden stave church from the 13th century. The old church was closed in 1683 and for some time the locals had to use Reinli Stave Church. The church that we see today is the second church and dates to 1736. 

    Nord-Aurdal Municipality

    The coat-of-arms for Nord-Aurdal depicts three blue flowers called ‘Snow Gentian’. The flowers are locally known as ‘the blue eyes of Christ’ and grow all over Norway but grow abundantly in this area. They represent the three main settlements of the municipality: Aurdal, Fagernes, and Leira. This is a fairly mountainous municipality. The highest point is 1,325m (4,347ft) high and about 50% of the land is above 900m (3000ft).

    Aurdal
    Village

    Aurdal is a small village with a population of around 647. The village is known for its winter sports activities and is in Valdres’ Alpine Centre. There are several places to stay and eat. There used to be a railway here – the Valdresbanen – but it stopped in 1888. 

    Just after Aurdal is the Noraker Gård. This farm is currently being run by the 12th century. Rakfisk is a highly desirable food from this farm, and in 2022 they won the expert jury award at the Norwegian Rakfisk Festival. In 2006, Rakfisk from Valdres was approved as a protected geographical indication. This means that only fish hatched, reared, and processed in Valdres can be sold under the Rakfisk fra Valdres brand. 

    They have a farm shop that also sells trout, mustard, beer, moose, goat, and art. 

    Rakfisk is a dish made from trout or char where it is salted and autolyzed for two or three months. It is then eaten without cooking and has a strong smell and pungen salty flavour. After the fish is gutted and rinsed, it is placed in a bucket and salt. It is then placed under pressure with a lid that fits down into the bucket and a weight on top. A brine is formed as the salt draws moisture from the fish. The rakfisk bucket is stored at under 5 degreesC for one to three months. The finished product doesn’t need cooking. 

    Fagernes

    Fagernes is a major hub along the E16.

    The word ‘Fagernes’ is a combination of ‘fager’ (beautiful) and ‘nes’ (headland). The town was established in 1857, when the first trading operations started. The first hotel started operations in 1875, and from 1906 there was a train line (it has since closed). 

    If you are travelling in November, you may be in town for the Norwegian Rakfisk Festival, which takes place in the first week of the month. 

    In Fagernes is the Valdres Folkmuseum, a well-known museum that shows the culture of the Valdres region. It is both an indoor and outdoor museum. 

    Fagernes Travel Guide

    Ulnes Church

    Historic Church

    Ulnes Church is a beautiful church that you’ll pass shortly after leaving Fagernes. The earliest records of the church go back to 1307, but it was not new that year. Estimates say that the church was built around the year 1265 as its architecture reflects the transition between Romanesque and Gothic architecture. 

    In 1675, there were plans to replace it with a new wooden church as it was decaying, but thankfully that didn’t happen. Around 1720, the church was put out of use. It was described in 1733 by a bishop as “a pile of stones” with only the choir being suitable to keep. The church was restored in 1737, with the nave being demolished and rebuilt. The interior was also refurbished. 

    Vestre Slidre Municipality

    The next municipality is Vestre Slidre. The municipality is partly named after the historic Slidre Church, which you’ll see soon. The coat-of-arms are based on a heraldic decoration found in the Slidredomen church that dates to 1170. The design was originally part of a seal that belonged to a medieval nobleman in the area. The meaning of the design is unknown. 

    Vestre Slidre is mentioned in the Old Norse sagas. Harald Fairhair, who became the first King of Norway (872-930), did some conquests over petty kingdoms. One of the encounters that led to the overall conquest was with Skallagrim Kveldulvssøn in Vestre Slidre. Also, in 1023, King Olav Haraldsson came to the area to Christianise the people. The locals were caught unaware, and Olav took all their boats. They would only get them back if they accepted Christianity, which they did. 

    Lastly, in 2000 Sami gamme huts (a simple form of a hut) were found in the municipality. This is the southernmost discovery of Sami settlements.

    Slidre

    Village

    Slidre is the next village on the E16. It has a population of around 337. 

    In Slidre you can see the Vestre Slidre Church (Slidredomen), a historic stone church from around 1170. The church is built in the Romanesque style of architecture and the stone walls are approximately 160cm (63 inches) thick. 

    The church is unique in that it doesn’t have a west portal. Instead, the main entrance is from the south.

    The furniture is from the 18th century, while there are frescoes from the 15th century. The choir has a painted wooden vault from the 14th century, which depicts Jesus Christ in the mandorla centrally in the middle. On the north wall, a medieval coat-of-arms has been uncovered and is used as Vestre Slidre’s coat-of-arms. 

    The area here is very old. Above the village of Slidre is an ancient burial ground called the ‘Gardberg Site’. Here you can see the Einangsteinen runestone. It is believed to be from the 4th century and is considered the oldest runestone in the Nordics that is standing in its original place. The name Einang comes from a nearby farm. 

    Lomen Stave Church

    Lomen Stave Church is from around the year 1192. The church is a pillar stave church, meaning the main room has four supporting stave beams. The style and decoration of the church is part of the “Valdres-Sogn” stave churches. This groups many of the churches from Valdres Valley and around the Sognefjord that have the same features. Considering the old King’s Road used to run through the valley to Sogn, they likely shared design tips.

    Like all stave churches, Lomen Stave Chuch has fallen victim to modernisation and renovation. The choir is from a major renovation in the 1750s. During this time, the walls were also expanded to make the main room larger.

    During the last refurbishment, archaeological excavations uncovered 71 artefacts, including jewellery and coins. The oldest coin found here is from King Sverre’s time, 1177-1202.

    Today the church, neighbouring bell tower and cemetery are under protection. Many original features of the church remain, despite major renovations. The most illustrative are the portals, which have decorations of dragons, vines, and animal heads. Some of the portals have moved around the church, but they do date back to medieval times. These kinds of decorations are common on Valdres-Sogn stave churches. The roof and wall timbers are also original.

    Lomen Stave Church

    Vang Municipality

    Vang is a small municipality in the traditional Valdres region. The name comes from an old farm, though vang comes from the Old Norse word vangr meaning ‘field’ or ‘meadow’. The coat-of-arms are rather special – they are based on historic descriptions and depictions of the personal arms of a local medieval nobleman called Sigvat of Leirhol. He was named as one of the members of the delegation that followed King Håkon V Magnusson to Copenhagen in 1309. He then became the governor of Valdres. His coat-of-arms can also be seen on Vang Church. 

    The municipality was originally populated by migrants from Western Norway. 

    The ancient Vang Church was the site of a legal court held by King Håkon VI in 1368. 

    Høre Stave Church

    Høre Stave Church is one of the stave churches with an insight into the fascinating past of Norway. Especially around and shortly after the time of the Civil War in the 12th and early 13th century. We know that the Christianisation of Valdres wasn’t easy. St. Olav, then King Olav, came from the west through the valley. He held farmers hostage and burnt down farms until they agreed to convert. According to the Sagas, Olav had churches built and clergymen appointed. None of these churches remains, but many of the stave churches are on the same spot, including Høre Stave Church.

    In medieval times, Valdres had many churches. There were at least 21 of them; 18 of which were stave churches. To compare, the neighbouring valley Hallingdal had 8 stave churches. Sadly very few remain today. 

    Judging from the rune inscriptions found inside the church and dating the timber, Høre Stave Church is from around 1179. It was originally a pillar church, with four corner staves. Under the church are graves, some of them children. It wasn’t allowed but common to bury children under stave churches. As they had not been baptised yet, the parents worried the children would not be accepted into heaven. Some foetuses were also found under the church. There is evidence of ceremonial burials under the church, likely from pre-Christian times.

    The original stave church somewhat exists today; all that remains is its skeleton. The skeleton is hidden by the cladding. The ship is still the original size, giving a sign of the original size of the church room.

    Høre Stave Church

    Vang i Valdres

    The word ‘vang’ comes from an old farm that stood here; this farm is also where the first church stood. Vang, like the rest of the Valdres Valley, was populated by migrants from Western Norway. People have lived in this valley (Vangr means meadow or field) for thousands of years. This is likely due to its proximity between east and west Norway. Vang is by a lake just before the mountain pass to Western Norway and thus made for a good rest stop.

    Vang became the site of a legal court (ting in Norwegian), and the ancient stave church was next to the site. The site was famously used by King Haakon VI in 1368 when he was settling a boundary dispute.

    Vang also became part of the ancient royal road between Bergen and Oslo. In the 16th century, it was the postal road, and from the 18th century, it was Kongevegen. Kongevegen was the first road for horse and cart between East and West, and I’ve covered it on my page for the E16. Today, the highway follows the same path as Kongevegen. Still, the town and nearby area became a place where travellers would seek refuge at some point on their journey. 

    The Vang Stone is clearly marked and is by the E16. Parking is available across the street. 

    The Vang Stone

    Øye Stave Church

    Øye Stave Church is one of the smallest and oldest stave churches in Norway. It is likely from some time during the second half of the 12th century. The church is first mentioned in written documents in 1347. It stood by the old traffic road over Filefjell, which was the first road between Bergen and Oslo.

    Øye Stave Church

    Kongevegen

    Historic Road

    As you may have noticed by now, there are a number of churches and important historic sites along the E16. This is because the E16 follows one of the ancient crossings between east and west Norway. It is called ‘Kongevegen’ (The Kings Road). The road is ancient and is believed to have been the first way between east and west. The first postal road was laid here in 1647, and the road received official status in 1791. 

    Ever since people have lived in Norway has this been the most useful route between east and east. A number of tracks show traffic throughout the Stone Age and Bronze Age. The road was also important in the Christianisation of Norway, as is evident in the large number of churches along the road. Many ancient farms here also became inns for travellers, and some survive today. In the Middle Ages, the road was known as the most difficult and dangerous in the country. As many Danish public servants were travelling between Bergen and Christiania (Oslo), it was decided to modernize the road in the 17th century. The road was built as straight as possible and became known as the Royal Postal Road. Most of the trip was done on foot. 

    In the 18th century, travelling with horse and carriage became more common, so it was decided to modernise the road again. In 1791, the official road was completed and Kongevegen became the first carriage road between east and west Norway. The road was built by hand. Today the E16 skips many of the most difficult parts with tunnels, but parts of the old road remain and are now a popular hiking trail. In 2017, Kongevegen was awarded the EU’s most important cultural heritage award, Europa Nostra. 

    It is possible to spend the night in one of the many lodges over the mountains and do short or long hikes. 

    Tyinkrysset

    Village

    Tyinkrysset is a village located in the Filefjell mountains, which is where the historic crossing between east and west Norway was. The village sits at an elevation of around 900 metres (3,000 feet). This area is popular with hikers. You’ll find some hotels up in the area. 

    Filefjellet Mountains

    Mountains

    You are now crossing the Filefjellet mountain range across to Western Norway. It has been an important crossing path between east and west Norway since ancient times. The highest peaks are 1013m above sea level. 

    The E16 follows a lot of the same path as the old road. 

    Lærdal Municipality

    Lærdal is the first municipality in Vestland county. Lærdal has a dry climate, with 420mm – 600mm of rainfall annually in the inhabited areas. Through the valley runs the Lærdalselvi, or the Laerdal River, known as the ‘Queen of the Salmon Rivers’. It is one of the country’s most famous large salmon rivers. The valleys have opportunities for hunting deer, reindeer, and elk. The valley was inhabited and used by humans as far back as 6,000 years ago. In places, the vally has been used since the Early Stone Age. In the mountains are the first traces of people in the mountain areas of Norway.

    Lærdal has always been the main road between east and west Norway. The area where the village Lærdalsøyri is developed as a marketplace in the Middle Ages. Coastal farmers brought herring and fish and exchanged goods with mountain farmers from Valdres. At least five generations of road structure remain in the Lærdal valley, which proves the valleys important function as a hub. Lærdal has a long tradition with agriculture. The lower part of the valley has one of the country’s best climatic conditions for growing vegetables. Early production of potatoes and vegetables is important. 

    Borlaug

    Village

    The next village is Borlaug. This is where the E16 joins with Highway 52, which runs over the Hemsedal mountains (it’s an alternative way between Oslo and Bergen). You’ll pass some old farmhouses on the right as you drive through the village. 

    Borgund

    Village

    Borgund is a mountain village. It has been an important spot on the journey between east and west Norway for hundreds of years. There are several farms in the village and agriculture is the main industry here. 

    Borgund Stave Church

    Borgund Stave Church is the most famous of Norway’s 28 remaining stave churches. The exact age of Borgund Stave Church is unknown. It is possibly as old as 1150 when looking at the timber. However, the church is generally regarded as being from around the year 1200. It is dedicated to the apostle Andrew.

    The church is fascinating; a visit to it should not be missed. The church is open in the summer for tourists for a small fee. Check their website for more information. 

    Borgund Stave Church

    Lærdal

    You will bypass the village of Lærdal on the E16, but it’s a worthwhile detour to drive into the village. Lærdal is a historic trading place on the old postal route between Oslo and Bergen. It was where the travellers would leave their horses behind and take boats the rest of the way to Bergen. Lærdal is also a fantastic place for trying the foods from the Sognefjord region, including potatoes, berries, and cider. 

    You can read about Lærdal on our dedicated travel guide page. 

    Lærdal Travel Guide

    Aurlandsfjellet Tourist Road

    In the summer months, it’s possible to take the Aurlandsfjellet Tourist Road across to Aurland instead of going through the tunnel. 

    Aurlandsfjellet Tourist Road

    Lærdal Tunnel

    Tunnel

    Welcome to the world’s longest road tunnel! The Lærdal Tunnel is 24.5km (15.2 miles) long. The tunnel was constructed between 1995 and 2000 and cost $113 million USD. The tunnel does not have emergency exits; there are emergency phones every 250 metres as well as 15 turning areas for buses and semi-trailers. There are rooms in the tunnel with food and supplies in case anyone gets stuck in there. The tunnel has high air quality through ventilation and purification. 

    It incorporates features to help manage the mental strain on drivers. Every 6km there is a cave to separate sections of the road. The lighting varies throughout the tunnel and caves to break the routine.

    Aurland Municipality

    Aurland municipality is perhaps one of the most visited municipalities in Norway. After all, it is home to the famous Flåm village as well as the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Nærøyfjord. The main industry in Aurland is agriculture, with goats’ cheese being an important product from here. Tourism is also a major industry. 

    Aurland

    It is worth driving into the village of Aurland. In many ways, it is more charming than Flåm. Aurland is home to Vangen Church, a historic stone church from 1202. The fact that it is built in stone and not wood signifies that the area must’ve been of importance around the time it was built. Aurland is also home to the Aurland Shoe Factory, where the pennyloafer was invented.

    Aurland Travel Guide

    Flåm

    Located at the end of the Aurlandfjord, a branch of the Sognefjord, Flåm is a gorgeous little village. Many people come to Flåm to do the Flåm Railway, regarded as the most beautiful train journey in the world. This train journey goes from Flåm through the valley and up the mountains to Myrdal, located close to the Hardangervidda National park. Myrdal is also where you board the train to Bergen or Oslo. Besides the train ride, there’s a gorgeous ferry journey from Flåm to Gudvangen. It takes you on the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Nærøyfjord – something you shouldn’t miss.

    Flåm has a population of 350, though on a summer day there will be several thousand people in the village. Seriously. The Flåm Railway has become incredibly popular – it’s sold out months in advance. Additionally, Flåm is becoming a major cruise port.

    Flåm Travel Guide

    Gudvangen

    Village

    Gudvangen is a small village with a population of around 120. It is a popular tourist destination due to its proximity at the end of the Nærøyfjord. The popular Gudvangen – Flåm cruise stops here, and many people also come to visit the Viking Village in Gudvangen. The Viking Village is a recreated village as Gudvangen is believed to have been an important trading place for the Vikings. 

    It is worth driving into Gudvangen (approx 5 mins off the E16) and stopping in front of the Nærøyfjord. The Nærøyfjord is the narrowest branch of the Sognefjord, only 250 metres at its narrowest and 12 metres at its shallowest. The fjord is 20km long. It is UNESCO World Heritage-listed as it is one of the best representations of what a fjord looks like.

    Stalheim Hotel & Stalheimskleiva

    Historic Hotel

    The site where the hotel is has been an important place for hundreds of years. When the Royal Postal Road between Oslo and Bergen was established in the 17th century, this hotel was where the postal workers would stop to rest. 

    The hotel as it is known today opened in 1885 with 10 rooms. The hotel burned down in 1900, 1902 and 1959. The current hotel building you see today is from after the 1959 fire. Today the hotel is a high-end historic hotel where many famous people have stayed. It also has arguably one of the best views of any hotel in Norway, but good luck trying to see it. They don’t allow visitors to come in and take pictures without paying or having coffee. 

    Stalheimskleiva is a 1.5km (1 mile) stretch of road that leads from Stalheim Hotel down to sea level towards the Nærøyfjord. It was one of the country’s first roads built according to the new road engineering requirements that came around 1850, the so-called chaussee, with a maximum gradient of 1:20. Around 1,000 men built the road over 7 years. The road was a motorway for cars going in both directions, which was of course dangerous. It was eventually replaced with the two tunnels you’ll be driving through. The road then became a one-way tourist road, however in 2020 part of the road was in danger of collapsing due to landslide. In 2021, the road closed for all motor vehicles for the foreseeable future. This is due to the poor condition of the road and the extensive damage done by traffic. The road is on the conservation plan, so it’s being repaired and may become a hiking trail instead. 

    Across from the Stalheim Hotel is an open-air museum with farmhouses collected from the area. There are also a number of hiking trails starting from around the hotel, so it could be a good option for spending the night. 

    Voss Municipality

    Voss municipality is an inland municipality with about 90% of the area mountains over 300m (1000ft) above sea level. Because of that, the municipality is a popular place for people from Bergen to go skiing. Voss is home to the largest ski resorts in Western Norway. The area has been settled for at least 3,000 years, with people coming here for the rich valleys, waters, and animal life. Voss was also largely an isolated municipality, meaning it has kept its own unique culture and traditions. 

    Oppheim Lake

    Lake

    After leaving Gudvangen, you will drive up the Nærøy Valley. This is part of the UNESCO World Heritage area. The stone they are mining here is anorthosite, a rare stone found in large amounts in this valley. The stone is typically used on the roads because it is reflective. 

    The drive through the valley is short; you will then take two tunnels to get up the mountain. However, before you get into the tunnels, you will see a red hotel and a hairpin-turn road on the hillside. 

    As you drive along the lake, you’ll drive through the village of Oppheim and past the Oppheim Church. 

    Vinje

    Village

    Vinje is a small village located at the junction of the E16 and the Rv13, which runs over the Vikafjellet mountains to Vik by the Sognefjord. This is a long but beautiful detour; the road does close in winter, though. In Vik you’ll find the Hopperstad Stave Church (one of Norway’s 28 remaining stave churches) as well as some other historic buildings. 

    Tvindefossen

    Waterfall

    It is worth stopping and taking some photos of Tvindefossen Waterfall. It will be clearly marked with signs as you approach it. The waterfall is 152m high and has two streams (tvinde=twin). In the late 1990s, the waterfall acquired a reputation for having special powers of reviving sexual potency, so it became common to see visitors from the U.S., Japan and Russia visiting and filling containers with water. 

    Voss

    If you are following the E16, you will take a bypass and not see Voss at all. It is possible to drive into Voss, park by the lake, and see some of the town. 

    Voss has a population of around 14,000 people. The town is known for its cultural traditions in folk music, art, handicrafts, and traditional foods. Voss sits on the shore of the lake Vangsvatnet.

    During World War II, the town was bombed by the Luftwaffe and almost all the buildings were destroyed. 

    In Voss it’s worth visiting Voss Church. According to legend, the people of Voss was forced to convert to Christianity by King Olav (later Saint Olav). A stone cross can be seen by the lake which is believed to have been erected by St. Olav himself. The church was built in 1277 and is one of the only buildings to survive World War II. 

    In Voss you can do the Voss gondola to the top of the mountain, where the open-air museum is. 

    Voss Travel Guide

    Evanger

    Village

    Evanger has a well-preserved village centre that is believed to be one of the better-preserved villages in the area. Most of the wooden houses are from the late 19th/early 20th centuries. Evanger is known for its production of cured meat because the village is home to several companies that specialise in the production of traditional meats such as pinnekjøtt (dried, salted rib of lamb), cured lamb, and sausages. 

    Bolstadøyri

    Village

    Bolstadøyri is located at the end of the fjord. When the old postal road came through here, this is the point where the workers would leave their horses and take a boat to Bergen. This has always been an important meeting place for the courts as well as a trading post. 

    Vaksdal Municipality

    Vaksdal is a small industrial municipality in Western Norway. The coat-of-arms show three black shuttles for weaving. The shuttles were chosen to represent the textile industry of the municipality. The municipality is located alongside the fjord and is also very mountainous. 

    Dale

    Village

    Dale is a small industrial village with a population of around 1,100. The village was built around the Dale power planet and factory that were founded and constructed in the 1870s. The machines were brought over by boat from England – carding machines, spinning machines and 200 looms, as well as finishing and dyeing machines. When the factory was built, there was only a homestead here. However, by the end of the 19th century the factory had 500 employees and the village had 1,000 inhabitants. At its peak in the 1950s and 1960s, Dale had a population of 4,000. 

    Dale is where the Dale of Norway company is based. This is arguably Norway’s most famous textiles company. They make the sweaters for the Norwegian Olympics Team and are known for their classic patterns. There is an outlet store in Dale, if you wish to visit that. 

    Osterøy

    Island

    Soon you will reach the wider part of the Osterfjord, which you will follow for the journey into Bergen. Across the fjord is an island called Osterøy. Osterøy is the largest inland island in Norway at around 330km2. Around 8,000 people live on the island and it is largely an agricultural island. You’ll see the bridge to the island soon.

    Vaksdal

    Village

    Vaksdal is a small village located on the fjord. Like Dale, it is an industrial town. In the late 19th century, the Vaksdal Mølle (Mill) opened here, utilising the hydropower in the region. This is where flour would be made. At the time it was built, it was the largest mill in Northern Europe. 

    Bergen Municipality

    Welcome to Bergen! We are now on the outskirts of Bergen municipality. 

    Trengereid

    Village

    Trengereid is the next village you will pass on your way into Bergen. Like the other villages along the fjord, Trengereid was established in the late 19th century around a factory. The factory (Trengereid Fabrikker) specialised in ribbon and lace production. 

    In Trengereid you will see the round-a-bout that leads off to the Hardangerfjord and Hardanger Tourist Road. However, you have been driving from Oslo, so probably save that for a separate road-trip. 

    Arna

    Village

    Arna is one of Bergen’s eight districts and was incorporated into the city in 1972. Around 14,000 people live in Arna and are connected to the city centre of Bergen by the railway. The train between Bergen and Arna takes only 10 minutes as it cuts through the mountain Ulriken; the road follows the coastline and takes 30 minutes to get to the same place. 

    Bergen

    Welcome to Bergen! Bergen is Norway’s second-largest city and is regarded as the Capital of the Fjords. 

    Bergen Travel Guide

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Bergen, Eidfjord, Hardangerfjord, National Highways, Road-trips, Voss

    Drive it Yourself: Voss to Eidfjord

    Drive it Yourself: Voss to Eidfjord

    The drive between Voss and Eidfjord may be short, but it is definitely beautiful. The drive takes you from central Voss down along the old Hardanger Train Line, through a few tunnels, and then into Eidfjord. Eidfjord is located at the end of the Hardangerfjord, and is a popular place to visit for those heading up to Hardangervidda. Along the way you’ll also cross the famous Hardanger Bridge. 

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    The drive: E6 between Voss and Eidfjord

    Voss

    This drive begins in Voss. You can find a detailed guide to Voss below. 

    Voss Travel Guide

    Skjervsfossen

    Waterfall

    If you’re doing this drive in summer, the detour via Skjervsfossen is very nice. You can stop by the waterfall for some photos. This road is actually the old highway down to Hardanger – if you don’t take the detour, you go through a very long tunnel instead!

    We didn’t go past the waterfall on this trip, but we have been there before. The first stop on the road is at the top of the waterfall (middle photo), and you can see the hairpin road and the road across the waterfall (right photo). Once you drive down the road you can stop for a photo of the lower part of the waterfall (left photo). 

    Granvin Lake

    Natural Attraction

    We are now driving along Granvin Lake. The lake is 4 sq km (1.56 sq mi) and has tunnels on both sides of it. The old Hardanger Line used to run along the west side of the lake.

    Granvin Church

    Historic Site

    Granvin Church sits on the eastern shore of the lake in a small farm area known as ‘Granvin’. The church was built in 1726 and seats about 300 people. The earliest church was mentioned in 1306, but it was not built in that year. It was likely a wooden stave church. The church was expanded in the 17th century. In 1726, the church was sold to private landowners, who tore it down and replaced it with the current church. The church was sold to the parish in 1857.

    Granvin

    Village

    On this drive we don’t go into Granvin, but if you want a short detour then Granvin is a lovely town. Kjerland Gardsbutikk is located just off Highway 13 and is a great place to buy Hardanger apples, Hardanger cider, or fresh produce.

    Hardanger Bridge

    Bridge

    The Hardanger Bridge is a suspension bridge across the Eidfjorden branch of the Hardangerfjord. It used to be a ferry connection, but this bridge has replaced that and significantly improved the driving time between Bergen and Oslo. It is the longest suspension bridge in Norway.

    Construction began on the bridge in 2009 and it officially opened in 2013. The bridge had a budget of 2.3 billion kr (312 million USD) and more than half was to be paid with tolls and saved ferry subsidies.

    The bridge is 1,380m (4,530 ft) long with a main span of 1,310m (4,300 ft). The maximum dock height is 55m (180ft) and the towers reach 200m (660ft) above sea level. The largest cruise ships can’t go under the bridge, but smaller ones can. It is one of the longest suspension bridge spans in the world, and it is the longest tunnel-to-tunnel bridge.

    When you cross the bridge, you’ll pay a very expensive toll. That’s for paying off the bridge!

    Eidfjord Municipality

    Eidfjord municipality is located at the end of the Eid Fjord, which is a branch of the Hardangerfjord. The Eid Fjord is 29km (18 mi) long and is the fjord you’re driving along now. 90% of Eidfjord municipality is 900m above sea level; mostly in Hardangervidda. The nature provides the basis for power production, agriculture, hunting, fishing and tourism. 

    Eidfjord

    We have now arrived in Eidfjord! If it’s a summer day, it may be very busy. I’ve had luck parking outside the Joker supermarket, but you can also park a little ways out of the town and walk in.

    All the information you need for Eidfjord can be found on the travel guide section of the Hidden North. 

    Eidfjord Travel Guide

    Where to Go From Here

    Eidfjord to Flåm via Vøringsfossen and Hardangervidda on the Hardangervidda Tourist Road

    Cross the Hardangervidda Plateau from Eidfjord and end up in Flåm. 

    Hardangervidda Tourist Road

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Bergen, European Highways, Flåm, Road-trips, Voss

    Drive it Yourself: Flåm to Bergen on the E16

    Drive it Yourself: Flåm to Bergen on the E16

    The E16 (European Highway 16) is the main highway that runs between Bergen and Oslo. The stretch of the E16 that you are likely to do is the part between Bergen and Flåm. It’s a fairly easy drive – just 2.5 hours – and you pass through some incredible scenery (and lots of tunnels).

    While there aren’t too many places to stop at, it is likely you are doing this drive to get from A to B. Here’s an overview of what you see along the way. 

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    The drive: Flåm to Bergen

    Flåm

    This drive begins in Flåm. You can find a detailed guide to Flåm below. 

    Flåm Travel Guide

    Undredal

    Village

    Undredal is a small village located along the Aurlandsfjord. It is famous for its goats cheese production and tiny stave church. It is about a 20 minute drive from the E16. 

    Gudvangen

    Village

    Gudvangen is a small village with a population of around 120. It is a popular tourist destination due to its proximity at the end of the Nærøyfjord. The popular Gudvangen – Flåm cruise stops here, and many people also come to visit the Viking Village in Gudvangen.

    Nærøydalen

    Natural Attraction

    The Nærøydalen is a valley that runs from Stalheim near Voss down to Gudvangen. The Nærøydalen River runs through the valley and empties into the Nærøyfjord. The entire area is listed on the UNESCO World Heritage List because it is one of the best examples of a fjord system in the world.

    The valley is rich in a mineral called anorthosite, which is mined in the area. Because it is reflective, it is primarily used on the roads.

    Stalheim Hotel

    Hotel

    Straight ahead we can see the Stalheim Hotel (red building on the hill). The hotel first opened in 1885 on the historic postal route between Oslo and Bergen. A lodging had been here long before then, and it was a place where the travellers could get food and supplies for themselves and their horses.

    The hotel has been rebuilt a couple times due to fire. The current building is from 1960 and has 124 rooms for 218 guests. It is a lovely hotel to stay at and provides the best views over the valley. Across the street from the hotel is an open-air museum that explains the history of farming and life high in the mountains.

    You pass the turn-off to the hotel after going through two tunnels. 

    Tvindefossen

    Natural Attraction

    Tvindefossen is a popular waterfall in Norway. It is 116m (381ft) high and is famous for its beauty – it was painted in 1830 by Johan Christian Dahl. In the late 1990s, the waterfall got a reputation for rejuvenation and revival of sexual potency, and that made it one of the most visited waterfalls in Norway. Over 200,000 people visit the waterfall every year.

    Voss

    Voss has a population of around 15,000 people and is a key town between the fjords of Norway. The town is known today for its wide variety of adventure sports, and many come here to hike, kayak, paraglide, and ski. The E16 doesn’t run through Voss, but rather cuts through via a tunnel.

    Voss Travel Guide

    Evanger

    Village

    Evanger is a small village that has some well-preserved wooden houses and a classic 19th century church. There is also a sausage factory and some other small industries in the village.

    Dale

    Village

    Dale is a small town with a population of around 1,139. The town is a well-known industrial site that was built around the Dale Power Plant. The factory for Dale of Norway, a famous knitwear brand, is located here. Dale of Norway was founded by Peter Jebsen in 1879 when he discovered the rivers large source of power. The machines for the knitwear came from England.

    When the factory was built, there was one farm here, but within 20 years the population grew to 1000 employees. Most people in the village still work at Dale of Norway. The factory has an outlet store that you can visit.

    Osterøy

    Island

    We are driving along the 27km (17 mi) long Osterfjord. On the other side of the fjord is the island of Osterøy. The island is 328km (127 sq mi), making it the largest inland island in Norway.

    Vaksdal

    Town

    Vaksdal is a small town loaded along the Osterfjord. The main building in the town is the Vaksdal Mill, a historic mill used to make flour. 20% of the population work in the local industry, while 26% of the population commute to Bergen.

    Bergen

    You have made it to Bergen! You can read about Bergen in detail on the Bergen Travel Guide page. 

    Bergen Travel Guide

    Previous Drive

    The Hardangervidda Tourist Road

    Take the very scenic drive from Eidfjord to Flåm via the Hardangervidda Plateau and Aurlandsdalen valley. 

    Hardangervidda Tourist Road

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Bergen, Eidfjord, Flåm, Geilo, Hardangerfjord, National Tourist Roads, Road-trips, Voss

    Drive it Yourself: the Hardangervidda Tourist Road

    Drive it Yourself: Hardangervidda Tourist Road

    In this article...

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    Visit Our YouTube Channel

    The drive: Hardangervidda Tourist Road

    Eidfjord

    This drive begins in Eidfjord. You can find a detailed guide to Eidford below. 

    Eidfjord Travel Guide

    Eio River & Eidfjord Lake

    Natural Attraction

    The river is 2.1km (1.3 mi) long and runs from lake Eidfjord down into the Eid Fjord. We’ll see the Eidfjord Lake soon; it’s a moraine-dammed lake located just outside the village of Eidfjord.

    Øvre Eidfjord

    Village

    Øvre Eidfjord is a small village on the southern end of the Eidfjord Lake. The town has a population of around 200 and it serves as the last major stop before crossing the Hardangervidda Plateau.

    Norsk Natursenter

    Museum

    Øvre Eidfjord is home to the Norsk Natursenter, which is where you can learn about the nature in the area. Technology is used to allow for interactive experiences and learn about the flora and fauna of the area. There’s also a lovely film about the plateau made by Ivo Caprino. If you have the time, I recommend stopping here to learn a little more about Hardangervidda.

    Måbødalen

    Natural Attraction

    Måbødalen is a unique and narrow valley that will take you from Øvre Eidfjord to Hardangervidda. The deep and steep valley is the result of ice and water having cut into the slacker and more open valleys. The valley is studied with regards to its geological process and the interaction between ice and rivers.

    The valley was almost impassable before 1790, when bridges were built, and a stairway was completed. The first road was built here in the early 20th century; it opened in 1916 and included three bridges. The road is known for its hairpin turns, and today is only for cyclists and pedestrians. The original road through the valley was the first road between east and west Norway over Hardangervidda.

    Luckily for us there is now a new road; the new road is from 1986 and is wider and has many more tunnels.

    Johan Christian Dahl painted Måbødalen, a landscape painting that is on display at the KODE art museum in Bergen. It’s pictured above. 

    Before you get to the more dramatic part of the valley, you’ll pass a small museum about the cultural landscape of Måbødalen.

    Vøringsfossen

    Natural Attraction

    Vøringsfossen is the 83rd highest waterfall in Norway, which itself isn’t an impressive statistic. Rather, it is the setting that makes Vøringsfossen worth seeing. The waterfall has a total drop of 182m (597ft) and is perhaps the most famous waterfall in the country.

    The waterfall was hardly known to anyone besides the locals until 1821, when professor Christopher Hansteen estimated the height of the waterfall. He was on his way to Hardangervidda to make astronomical observations at the time. The way he estimated the height was by throwing stones down the edge and measuring the time they took to fall with his pocket watch. He estimated the height to be 280m (920ft); in 1893 the real height was realised by using string.

    In 2020, a new pedestrian bridge opened across Vøringsfossen; it was placed in sections by helicopter. The pedestrian bridge has received a lot of criticism, which many describing it as quite ugly.

    Fossli Hotel

    Hotel

    Fossli Hotel is a historic hotel overlooking the Måbø Valley and Vøringsfossen waterfall. The hotel was built by Ola L. Garen (1857 – 1915), who saw the potential of the area and the slow introduction of tourists. Before the hotel, there was only a walking path up the valley with 1,500 stairs. Thanks to the hotel, a new road was built through the valley instead. All the materials to build the hotel had to be carried on horseback from Eidfjord up to the top of the hill. Today the hotel is run by Erik Garen, the great grandson of Ola Garen.

    Fossli Hotel is built in the art nouveau style.

    The hotel owns a Zimmerman piano where Edvard Grieg composed Norwegian Folk Songs, Opus 66.

    Room rates

    Hardangervidda Plateau

    Scenic Area

    Hardangervidda is a well-known mountain plateau that spreads across parts of western, central, eastern, and southern Norway. It is the largest plateau of its kind (peneplain, or eroded plain) in Europe, and it has a cold year-round alpine climate. The highest point is the Sandfloegga, which reaches a height of 1,721m (5,646ft).

    The landscape is characterised by barren, treeless, moorland with lakes, rivers, and streams. The western side is rockier, while the eastern side is flatter and more heavily vegetated. The geology is extremely ancient; the rolling fells are remnants of mountains that were worn down by glaciers during the ice ages.

    Settlements from the Stone Age have been found in the area. The people who lived here were likely linked to the reindeer migration. Additionally, there are ancient trails across the plateau. Hardangervidda is still a key route between east and west; highway 7 being the way across.

    The Hardangervidda Plateau is above the tree line. The alpine climate means that there are arctic animals and plants here further south than anywhere else in Europe. There is a large wild reindeer herd here; it is believed to be the largest in the world with up to 10,000 reindeer.

    In 1981 much of Hardangervidda was designated a national park. The Norwegian Mountain Touring Association (DNT) has a network of huts and paths across the plateau. There are two visitor centres: the Norsk Natursenter in Øvre Eidfjord and the Hardanger Nasjonalparksenter, close to Rjukan.

    The Star Wars movie, The Empire Strikes Back, was shot on Hardangervidda; the plateau provided the basis for the Hoth sequences.

    Sysendammen

    Dam

    Sysendammen (Sysen Dam) is a rock-filled embankment dam. It holds back Lake Sysen, which is the main reservoir for the Sy-Sima Hydroelectric Power Station. The water supply to Vøringsfossen is regulated by the dam, and there is a requirement for a minimum water supply during the summer.

    The dam is 81m (266 ft) high, 1,157m (3,796ft) long and 248m (814ft) wide.

    Buskerud (Formerly known as Viken) County

    We have crossed into the county that from 2020 – 2022 was known as Viken. At time of writing, the Viken sign was still by the road. This sign may not be up when you drive through; the county was established in 2020 with the merging of three separate counties. However, the three counties were not happy with the decision and in 2021 a parliamentary election saw the parties wanting to dissolve Viken win. On the 23rd of February 2022, a vote of 49 against 38 saw the decision to split Viken finalised. So, in the near future, Viken will be split up again. For purposes of this video, I’ll talk about the county that used to be here and will likely come back: Buskerud.

    Buskerud county is a historically important county in Norway. The area around Ringerike was likely a small kingdom and Norway’s kings Olav Tryggvason and Olav Haraldsson grew up in Ringerike.

    The first element of the name, buske, refers to ‘bishop’, while the last element means ‘clearing, farm’. Historically, the bishop’s farm was one of the largest in Buskerud and was important during the Reformation. The farm became property of the Danish Crown and served as the residence for the king’s bailiffs until 1668.

    Agriculture, lumber, wood-pulp mills, and other related industries are the county’s main economic activities. There is a lot of hydropower thanks to the rivers Begna and Rands. Buskerud also has a large, forested area.

    Hol Municipality

    Hol is a mountainous municipality that sees 90% of the area over 900m above sea level. The coat-of-arms depicts three silver anvils on a blue background. The anvil was chosen to symbolise the former smithies in the municipality. The municipality was famous for the production of axes, blades and knives, and iron mining took place here in the Viking Age.

    Samegammene

    Souvenir Shop

    Samegammene is a small shop and fur company that began sixty years ago, when Amund Johansen from Northern Norway was forced to sell his reindeer herd after World War II and move south. He took his family with him and settled in Hardangervidda, where he was given the job as a reindeer herder. However, he sustained an injury from that work and decided to focus on tourism instead.

    Several ‘gamme’ have been bult around Hardangervidda. A ‘gamme’ is an ancient form of an earth hut, and from these they sell Sami products and souvenirs. Here you will find souvenirs but also handmade fur mittens and hats. The building was owned by the daughter of Amund Johansen until 2017, when she sold it out of the family. The current owners keep the gamme in memory of Amund Johansen.  

    Haugastøl

    Ski Town

    Haugastøl is the first town you’ll visit after a while. It is primarily a ski resort with various hotels and cabins. There is also a train station here, Haugastøl station, which is on the Bergen – Oslo Railway.

    Haugastøl is one end of the popular Rallarvegen cycling route – it’s an 83km track from Haugastøl to Finse (a town not accessible by road, just train). The road was originally a service road used by workers building the Flåm Railway, but now it is one of the most famous cycling tracks in the country. 

    Ustaoset

    Ski Town

    Ustaoset is a small village located on the Bergen to Oslo Railway. The village came to prominence when the railway opened in 1909 as it was a good spot for people to visit to go skiing. Families from Bergen and Oslo built cabins in Ustaoset and used the train as a way to get there. Due to Norway’s strict laws, it is now very difficult to build a new cabin in Ustaoset. Whenever one is up for sale, it is very popular and is often sold very quickly and for a high price.

    Ustaoset is mentioned in Jo Nesbø’s book The Leopard; the mountain resort cabins play a key role in the murder mystery.

    Geilo

    Ski Town

    Geilo is the main town in Hol municipality and is one of the most well-known ski resorts in the country. The town is in the Hallingdal valley at roughly the halfway point on the Bergen to Oslo railway.

    Geilo is noted for being the first ski resort in Norway and it was built up after the opening of the railway in 1909. The ski season lasts from late October until late April, and there are numerous small ski centres that make up one resort: Geilo Skiheiser. In addition to 39 downhill slopes, there are 220km of cross-country ski tracks.

    In the town centre you’ll find some shops, a supermarket, and a few restaurants. Around 2,500 people live in Geilo all year round, so there is a school, cinema, library and police station.

    Hagafoss

    Village

    Hagafoss is a small village in the upper part of the Hallingdal valley. It is located on the main highway between Bergen and Oslo, but here we take the Fv50 (Norwegian county road 50) towards Aurland.

    Hol Gamle Kyrkje

    Historic Site

    Hol Gamle Kyrkje is a 13th century church in Hol municipality. The church was originally a small stave church but has been rebuilt multiple times. The last time it was rebuilt was in 1939, and today it doesn’t have the design that makes it a stave church. It’s believed the floors of the church are the original staves from the stave church. The church is also known for the fact that it has a gutter in the apse.

    Vestland County

    We have crossed back into Western Norway!

    Aurland Municipality

    Aurland is a municipality in Western Norway that includes the popular villages of Aurland, Flåm, Undredal and Gudvangen. It is also home to the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Naerøyfjord.

    People settled here around 2,000 years ago to farm the area, and agriculture is still important in Aurland. Tourism began coming here in the mid-19th century, primarily from England. They took part in sport fishing and hunting.

    The coat-of-arms depict a goat’s head; a goat is a symbol of the municipality because of their historic production and importance of goats cheese and goat farming.

    Aurland Valley

    Natural Attraction

    Aurlandsdalen is a 40km (25 mi) long valley that was carved out by glaciers.

    Aurlandsdalen represents some of the most beautiful and magnificent in Norwegian nature. The valley has been an important trade and traffic road from the ancient times and was probably in use from the early Viking Age. The route was the shortest route between western and eastern Norway in pre-historic times. There are a number of very old farms in the valley that were permanently inhabited until the turn of the 20th century. There are also mountain dairy farms here (called ‘støls’) that can be spotted high on the mountains.

    The rare mountain flower “mountain queen” can be found in the valley. There are almost 500 plant varieties here. The soil is very rich in minerals formed from phyllitt in the rocks.

    Today many use Aurlandsdalen as a popular day hike (6-7 hours), or you can hike all the way to Finse in 3-4 days. It is one of the best-known tourist tracks in Norway

    As we went down, you saw the huge powerlines. The Aurland river system was developed in the 1970s for power production. The environmental impacts of hydroelectric development are notable; the great waterfalls have been substantially reduced. With the introduction of the tunnels, the water level in the river gorges has been drastically reduced. The Aurlands River is now no longer one of the finest salmon rivers in Norway. Farmers no longer drive cattle, pigs and goats to spend the summer at the old farms. The valley has been characterised, like many other valleys, by gradual urbanisation.

    Aurland

    Village

    Aurland is a small village with a population of around 800. The village is the location of the Aurland Shoe Factory, where the famous penny loafers were first made. Another interesting place to visit in Aurland is the Vangen Church, a historic stone church from 1202.

    Aurlandsfjord

    Fjord

    The Aurlandsfjord is a 29km (18 mi) long fjord and is a branch of the Sognefjord, the longest fjord in Norway. The fjord is deep and narrow, generally reaching less than 2km (1.2 mi) wide. Most of the mountains are up to 1800m (5,900ft) tall.

    Flåm

    We have arrived at Flåm, our final destination for this drive. Flåm is a small population with around 300 people, but is one of the most visited places in Norway thanks to the Flåm Railway. 

    You can read the Flåm travel guide below. 

    Flåm Travel Guide

    Next Drive

    Flåm to Bergen

    Flåm to Bergen on the E16

    Follow the next drive as we make our way back to Bergen on the E16. 

    Flåm to Bergen

    Previous Drive

    Voss to Eidfjord

    Making a day trip out of Hardanger? Read about the stretch of road between Voss and Eidfjord. 

    Voss to Eidfjord

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Fagernes, Foodies Guide, Voss

    20 of the Best Traditional Norwegian Foods to Try

    20 of the Best Traditional Norwegian Foods to Try

    When you come to Norway, you have to try the local cuisine. Whenever someone asks me “What is a traditional Norwegian food?” I have to explain that here food varies dramatically according to region and time of year.

    The most traditional Norwegian foods are, understandably, found in Norwegian restaurants. They tend to be the most expensive options, but if you do your research you can find the same quality food in the fish market restaurants or the Norwegian cafes.

    When we think traditional Norwegian food, our brain tends to go straight to seafood. It is true – Norway has a long history of fishing, and many farmers had to survive on fishing. Seafood remains an important part of Norwegian cuisine today, but due to its historical association of being a food for the poor, meat is seen as more of a luxury dish.

    Sheep, lamb and pork are popular meats found in Norway. If you go north, you’ll find reindeer on the menu. In the rural parts of the country, you’ll find game meats. Meats were typically seen as high-end food and what you would more likely be served when visiting a Norwegian home. Still, Norwegians had to be thrifty and all of the animal was used. That’s why you’ll find questionable dishes below, but remember this is how people had to survive for a long period of time.

    Most meat and fish dishes are accompanied with potatoes, carrots and other vegetables (according to season). Sauce is also an important ingredient, and there are a wide variety of Norwegian sauces that fit perfectly with different kinds of meat and seafood.

    Norwegians didn’t get fridges in their households until the 1950s, and before then methods of preservation were crucial. Families salted and dried their own fish and meat, pickled their own fruit and vegetables, and did everything possible to make food survive through the winter. You’ll see examples of this below.

    I’ve compiled a list of what I consider the most traditional Norwegian foods to try. When you come to Norway, be sure to try some of these. Pay attention to where in Norway you are and what season it is – if you check restaurants online keep in mind their menus are always seasonal.

    In this article...

    Found in Restaurants

    Salmon



    Recipe / Image Source
    Homemade Gravlaks
    Supermarket

    • Smoked salmon can be found in restaurants or supermarkets
    • Cooked salmon is found all over the country

    Salmon is a staple of the Norwegian diet, and you can find it on menus practically all over the country.
    Possibly the most Norwegian form of salmon is gravlaks. Gravlaks is salmon that has been cured in salt, sugar, and dill. You will find it on some breakfast buffets or as an appetiser on menus.

    Smoked salmon can be bought in supermarkets, though I do see it on menus as an appetiser too.

    If you order a salmon fillet from a restaurant, it will come with potatoes, seasonal vegetables, and a white sauce.
    It’s worth nothing that most, if not all, Norwegian salmon is farmed.

    Try it on Sushi!

    I know, sushi is not a traditional Norwegian dish.

    However.

    The Norwegians claim to have invented salmon sushi. Fresh fish sushi is amazing in Norway and it’s very popular for people here to have for lunch or dinner. Norway is actually credited for popularising salmon sushi in Japan in the 1980s. At the time, the Asian country was resistant to raw salmon due to parasites associated with pacific salmon. After Norway’s Project Japan successfully introduced and promoted Atlantic salmon to Japan, and it has been a staple ever since.

    Fårikål



    Recipe / Image Source

    • Norway’s national dish
    • Stew with meat and potato

    Fårikål is a stew that has been voted Norway’s national dish. It’s made from lamb meat and most of the animal is used – the shoulder, neck, ribs, and chops. The meat is cooked over a long time, and this makes the meat really tender. Cabbage is also put into the stew. After hours in the pot, it’s ready to eat.

    The last Thursday of September is Norway’s national fårikål day. You’ll find it on Norwegian restaurant menus throughout autumn.

    Stockfish




    Buy on Amazon/Image Source

    Stockfish is the staple of North Norwegian cuisine. It’s cod that has been dried outdoors for several months. The tradition dates back to the 12th century, and for hundreds of years it was the main Norwegian export.

    In restaurants you’ll find stockfish on the menu, especially in Northern Norway. The stockfish is rehydrated before cooking.

    If you go into a supermarket in Northern Norway or the fish markets in Southern Norway, you’ll be able to find the stockfish still dry. But it whole or as a bag of chips!

    You will also find cod (not dried – just fresh cod fillets) on many restaurant menus. The best I’ve ever had was at Enhjorningen in Bryggen. It’s pictured on the left.

    Lutefisk



    Recipe / Image Source
    “Why We Keep Eating Lutefisk in Minnesota”
    Buy Lutefisk (USA)

    • Stockfish soaked in lye
    • Traditional Christmas dish

    Lutefisk is another traditional food from Norway, which is typically eaten at Christmas. It is also common to eat on Christmas in Sweden and some parts of Finland.

    Lutefisk is made from aged stockfish and pickled in lye. First, the stockfish is soaked for five to six days in water, which is changed daily. Then it is soaked in a solution of cold water and lye for an additional two days. During this process, the dried fish swells and its protein content decreases by more than 50 percent. It creates a jelly-like texture. This process actually makes the fish inedible. To make it possible to eat, it needs an additional five to six days of soaking in cold water to remove the very high pH levels the lye added. Then it is cooked.

    Lutefisk is cooked by spreading a layer of salt over the fish to release some of the water. Remove the salt before cooking. Place it in a pan and steam cook it on a low heat for up to 25 minutes. It can also be baked in the oven. Lutefisk is served with potatoes, green peas, melted butter, and small pieces of fried bacon. Side dishes vary greatly from region to region, and family to family.

    Lutefisk Around the World

    Lutefisk has become popular in the United States as a heritage fish. Madison in Minnesota was named the ‘lutefisk capital of the world’ as it has the largest per capita consumption of lutefisk in Minnesota. Lutefisk is also served in Lutheran churches across Wisconsin, and it can be found in Canada. In Norway, around 20% of Norwegians eat it as a Christmas dinner.

    In Norway, you will find it for sale in supermarkets or on the menu over Christmas time. If you visit in July, you will not find lutefisk anywhere.

    We had lutefisk at Bryggeloftet in Bergen, and it was incredible.

    Meatballs

    • Meatballs
    • Find them in cheaper restaurants. The best ones are always found in our roadside diner – the ‘kro’

    Kjøttkaker is Norway’s answer to Sweden’s meatballs. Are ours better? Absolutely! 😉 Norwegian meatballs tend to be bigger and more influenced by family traditional recipes, whereas Swedish meatballs are more bite-sized.
    Meatballs are eaten with boiled potatoes, carrots (or other vegetables), and a brown sauce. They are best eaten homemade, but I find the most authentic ones in our version of a diner – the ‘kro’. You will find upmarket versions in restaurants, but this is a hearty dish that needs to be the real deal!

    Whale Meat

    Whale is a controversial food item, but I do recommend trying it when in Norway. Whaling isn’t banned: it’s heavily regulated and the whale used is minke whale, which is sustainable to hunt. You will see whale meat in fish markets and some supermarkets, but try it in a restaurant. More casual restaurants serve it as a burger, while the more upmarket ones serve it as a steak.
    It’s not as widely available as the anti-whaling groups make it out to be, and there aren’t many who prepare it at home.
    Whale was commonly used as a cheap substitute for beef in the early 20th century, and was vital to remote communities in Northern Norway.

    Consumption in whale meat is declining in Norway.

    You’ll find it in the fish market in Bergen.

    Raspeballer



    Recipe

    The Different Names

    Raspeballer

    • Dense potato balls
    • Called something different all over the country

    Raspeballer are a traditional Norwegian dish commonly prepared and served during the summer. You’ll find it on the menu at traditional, not necessarily high-end, Norwegian restaurants.
    This dense ball of mashed potato and flour is simmered in stock with fatty cuts of sheep or pork. It’s served with thick cubes of pan-fried bacon and lots of brown butter.
    Many restaurants serve it as a special every Thursday afternoon.
    They aren’t the most beautiful to look at, but they are very tasty!

    Smalahove



    Recipe

    This dish is the ultimate West Norwegian Christmas dish. You will only find it on menus over the Christmas period, and it’s not cheap. Still, if you want to try it – go ahead!
    The sheeps head is either boiled or steamed for three hours and is usually served with rutabaga and potatoes. Historically, it was food for the lower class. Today it is a delicacy that has to be preordered months in advance.

    Pinnekjøtt



    Recipe

    Pinnekjøtt

    • Dried, salted, smoked and cured lamb ribs
    • Very common Christmas dish. Found in restaurants and supermarkets

    The dish is made from lamb ribs. The meat is dried, salted and smoked. Once the meat is cured, the racks are hung in a cool, dark, and well-ventilated place to dry. Before cooking, the racks are separated into individual ribs and then soaked in water to rinse out the salt. After soaking the ribs, the ribs are steamed.
    This is a very popular Christmas/New Years dish in Western Norway, and you’ll find it in most Norwegian restaurants.

    Fiskesuppe



    Recipe

    Fiskesuppe

    • Fish soup
    • The best one is in Bergen!

    Fish soup is found all over the country, but it’s famous in Bergen. It is a white, milk-based soup with vegetables and various kinds of fish. The most incredible fish soup I’ve ever had is at Bryggeloftet in Bergen.

    Klippfisk



    Bacalao Recipe
    Klippfisk in supermarkets

    • Salted stockfish
    • Used commonly in bacalao

    The Dutch introduced salt to the fishermen of Kristiansund in the 1600s, and this is how cliff fish, or klippfisk, was born!  Salted, dried and pressed cod is known as the star of the Iberian dish bacalao. It became very popular in Kristiansund, where the klippfisk was produced.
    The difference between klippfisk and stockfish is that klippfisk is salted before drying, while stockfish isn’t.
    Today klippfisk is primarily exported to Spain and Portugal and used in bacalao.

    Rakfisk

    • Fermented trout/char
    • Try some at the Norwegian rakfisk festival in Fagernes

    Rakfisk is Norwegian fish made from trout or char, salted, and fermented for two or three months or even up to a year. It’s eaten without further cooking. It must be prepared and stored hygienically due to the risk of causing bacteria.
    Every year the Norwegian Rakfisk Festival takes place in Fagernes. Local rakfisk producers as well as producers of other local products and handicrafts turn the streets into a marketplace.
    Click here for more info. 

    Game & Hunting Meat

    High cuisine is reliant on game meats. Hunting is heavily regulated in Norway, and it is typically for personal consumption or given to friends and family. They are also served in restaurants.
    Here are the more traditional meats to try in restaurants:
    Moose. Moose is hunted and prepared in restaurants. You’ll very rarely find it in supermarkets. The taste can be compared to venison or elk. It’s prepared in many different forms, from steaks to burgers to hot dogs and stews. Click here for some different moose menus.
    Reindeer. If you’re in Northern Norway, you have to have reindeer. Extra points if you eat reindeer prepared by the Sami. I don’t eat reindeer often, but when I do I make sure it’s from a Sami family. My favourite ever reindeer eaten was a reindeer potato bake I had at a Sami camping ground. You’ll find it in supermarkets and on menus – it’s typically served as a steak.
    Deer. Deer is very common on menus, and it’s also often served as a steak.
    Grouse. This is one of the most sought-after birds in Norway. The breast has a tender, mild gamey taste.

    Supermarket Buys

    Brown Cheese

    • Brown Cheese / Gudbrandalsost
    • Find the cheese in the supermarket or on the buffet at your hotel breakfast

    Brown cheese is a very Norwegian food item. It is regarded as one of Norway’s most iconic foodstuffs, and it is considered an important part of Norwegian gastronomical and cultural identity and heritage.
    Brown cheese is produced by boiling milk, cream, and whey for several hours until the water evaporates. The heat turns the milk sugars into caramel – this is what gives the cheese its brown colour and sweetness. It is either made from cows’ milk or goat’s milk.
    The most popular type is ‘Gudbrandsdalsost’, which is produced in the Gudbrandsdalen Valley and contains a mixture of goat and cow milk.
    If you are trying brown cheese for the first time, put it on a lightly buttered slice of bread. It is a little sticky and full of flavour, so you don’t want to overwhelm it. Brown cheese is not technically cheese, so don’t go in expecting a cheese flavour! I love having brown cheese on waffles, too.
    Brown cheese is used in sweet and savoury dishes such as pasta & muffins. I like to make ‘brown cheese burgers’ 
    Fun fact: Brown cheese has become very popular in South Korea. In South Korea, they put it on croissants, though brown cheese pizza is very popular too.

    Kaviar

    Caviar… in a tube

    • Try Norwegian caviar straight from a tube
    • You’ll find it in the cold spreads section of the supermarket

    Pickled herring is something we like to snack on. Buy a jar in the supermarket with some rye bread, put the two together, and enjoy! If you’re hosting a party, serve pickled herring as a hors-d’oeuvre. It’s popularly eaten over Christmas.

    Leverpostei

    • Liver paste
    • You’ll find it in the tinned goods section of the supermarket

    Leverpostei is a common filling for sandwiches. This is a paste made of liver – normally pork. You can buy it in tins in the supermarket. It tastes best on a slice of bread. The tins characteristically have a childs face on the front.

    Sur-Sild

    • Pickled Herring
    • You can buy it in a large jar in the supermarket fridge section

    Pickled herring is something we like to snack on. Buy a jar in the supermarket with some rye bread, put the two together, and enjoy! If you’re hosting a party, serve pickled herring as a hors-d’oeuvre. It’s popularly eaten over Christmas.

    Snacks, Desserts, Takeaway

    Pølse med Lompe

    • Hot dog in pancakes
    • You’ll find them at kiosks (7/11 and Narvesen) as well as hotdog stands

    This is the traditional Norwegian foods of hot dogs. You can buy regular hotdogs in Norway, but if you want to do as the Norwegians do, try the Norwegian version with a sausage in a potato pancake.

    Waffles

    • Norwegian waffles
    • You’ll find them in cafes

    The Norwegian waffles are, in my opinion, the best in the world. They are thin, fluffy, and shaped like love hearts. The heart shape comes from the tradition that waffles are sold at charity drives.
    You can put many different things on top – jam, sour cream, cream, sugar, brown cheese. My husband puts ketchup on, which is so wrong!
    You can buy pre-made packets in supermarkets. Just add butter and water. The waffle irons are available everywhere, and prices range from 600 – 1000 NOK.

    Lefse

    • A kind of Norwegian flatbread

    Lefse is made with butter, flour, potatoes, and cream. However, the recipes for lefse vary dramatically depending where in Norway you are.
    You can buy packaged lefse in supermarkets or kiosks. Vestlandslefse is the best!

    Rømmegrøt

    • A strange Norwegian dessert

    Rømmegrøt is a sour cream porridge that you’ll find in the more traditional restaurants and diners.
    The recipe consists of sour cream, flour, milk, and salt which are then boiled or several minutes until a thick, creamy consistency is achieved. In Røros it is served with boiled trout, which makes it even more unique.

    Share your thoughts!

    Have you got any suggestions for food items to add? Or maybe some recommendations for restaurants? Add them below!
    I hope you enjoyed this article.

  • Bergen, Geilo, Hønefoss, Oslo, Voss

    Everything You Need to Know About the Bergen Railway

    The Bergen Railway

    The Bergen Railway is undeniably one of the best ways to get between Bergen and Oslo. The entire journey, which takes around 7 hours, crosses valleys and mountains, passes lakes and fjords, and shows you some of the best Norway has to offer.

    Information online can be tricky, so I’ve gathered it all together in one straight-to-the-point article. After the practical information, you’ll find an overview of some of the stations you pass on the trip. 

    If you wish to support me, you can leave a tip by clicking the coffee cup on the bottom left of this screen. Otherwise, leave questions or kind words in the chat section.

    Here’s everything you need to know before taking the Bergen Railway. Enjoy!

    In this article...

    Download this Guide

    All of our guides can be downloaded via our online store. 

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

    View on Store

    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Information about facilities along the way

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the region & towns
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Facilities including supermarkets, toilets, petrol, hotels, cafes, restaurants with addresses.

    Brief Historical Overview

    The Bergen Railway was built between 1875 and 1909. The first section of the train to be built was the Voss Line, which runs between Bergen and Voss. It opened in 1883 after over a decade of planning and construction. The plan had always been to extend it to Oslo, but by the time the Voss Line was complete, Norway was in a recession. Parliament was not willing to give more money. In 1894, the matter was brought to parliament, and they voted 60 in favour (53 against) to build the Bergen Line. 12 different routes were surveyed over a period of six years. Construction finally began in 1901.

    The construction process, as you might imagine, was very challenging. The high altitudes in a region without roads and a freezing cold climate made it difficult for the workers. The tunnels were all built manually through solid gneiss. The laying of track started in 1906 and took around one year to be completed.

    The original train was a standard gauge. The first services started on the 1st of July 1907 between Voss and Myrdal. An official opening was attempted on 9 December 1907, but the train got stuck in heavy snow. The first train between Bergen and Oslo ran on the 25th of November 1909, and two days later the railway was officially opened at Voss by King Haakon VII.

    The railway was used a lot during World War II for both civilian and military transportation.

    After the war, plans were made to electrify the train. The line was electrified in four stages between 1961 and 1964.

    Practical Information

    Timings

    • How many trains run a day? Four trains to between Bergen and Oslo a day. 
    • What time should I take it? If you are doing the Bergen to Oslo trip with Norway in a Nutshell all in one day, take the train that leaves Bergen around 8am. It’s also a good time to take the train because it gives you time to explore Oslo. The train gets into Oslo around 2:45pm.
    • What’s the best time of year to go? The train operates all year. It really depends on when you are travelling. It’s crowded in summer. I prefer spring: you get all the flowers and trees blooming closer to sea level, but there’s still snow on the mountains. 

    Tickets & Pricing

    • Buying in advance: Tickets can be bought up to 90 days in advance on our national rail website, vy.no. 
    • Does it sell out? Yes! In summer and over winter holidays, it is very common for the train to sell out. Book as early as possible.
    • Are there any discounts?If you keep an eye out and book as early as possible, you may find the minipris tickets. These are heavily discounted, but they do sell out quickly!
    • Norway in a Nutshell: You can book the trip on the Norway in a Nutshell website, and this is worth doing if you are actually doing the Norway in a Nutshell tour (Bergen – Voss – Gudvangen – Flåm – Myrdal – Oslo). However, they tend to charge more than if you just booked it on your own. It’s a matter of ease and convenience. 
    • How much do tickets cost? Ticket prices change a lot depending on the time of year and how close the train is to selling out

    Komfort Class

    • Komfort Class is the ‘first class’ option on the train
    • Komfort Class comes with complimentary tea and cofee, plus charging ports
    • Is it worth it? Honestly, I think so. While the ‘advantages’ of Komfort class don’t seem worth the extra fare, I think it’s worth it because it’s so much more relaxing. In summer, the train gets overcrowded with noisy travellers and luggage. The Komfort section tends to be where the Norwegians go because it’s quieter. Being silent in this section is a little more enforced too. 

    Services on board

    • Cafe: There is a cafe on the train. They have drinks, sandwiches, chocolates, coffee, hot dogs, pizzas, and some warm food items (like a curry with rice). The café gets incredibly busy around the middle of the trip, and the carriage is tiny. It is very unpleasant if you try to get food then. Some items will sell out, too. If you wait to the end of the trip, you’ll be left with hot dogs as an option. I recommend buying cold food early and saving it until you want it. It’s cheaper to buy food ahead of time and bring it on board with you. 
    • Alcohol? No alcohol is served on board
    • Wifi? Wifi is on the train in theory, but how well it works depends on what part of Norway you’re in. For example, it rarely works in the mountains. 
    • Bringing Children: Close to the café is a playroom for children. It’s called the ‘Family Car’. 
    • Language: signs on board are in Norwegian. Announcements are made in both English and Norwegian. 

    Apps

    • The Vy app allows you to download tickets and show them to the conductor. It’s much better than printing the ticket
    • The BaneNOR app allows you to track trains

    Taking photos

    • Bergen to Voss: Mostly the left side
    • Voss to Myrdal: Mostly the right side
    • Myrdal to Finse: Mostly the right side
    • Finse to Geilo: Mostly the right side
    • Geilo to Oslo: Both sides work well.

    For the photographers, the best places to take photos are in the doorways. At each stop, you can open the doors and take a quick snapshot. Just be wary of how long the train is stopping!

    Buss for tog

    If you see this, it means that part of the train journey has been replaced with a bus. It’s inconvenient but it happens if there’s work needed on the train. The bus doesn’t provide food or stops for toilets, so plan in advance.

    Luggage

    The train has very limited space for luggage. If you are breaking up the trip to do Norway in a Nutshell, I recommend having your luggage delivered to your hotel in Bergen or Oslo, depending on which direction you are going. Then take a small overnight bag on board the train with you. Check out the service ‘Porter Service’ (www.porterservice.no)

    Tunnel Reality

    There are over 180 tunnels on the Bergen Railway, so at times your view will be limited. This is very true in Western Norway; you must be quick with the camera!

    The journey: Bergen to Oslo

    Bergen

    City

    Bergen Station opened in 1913, four years after the Bergen Line was completed. Originally, the station was located further west (near where KODE 2 gallery is today). 

    At the time of construction, it was regarded as one of the grandest stations in Norway. The material used is granite and the style of construction is the National Romantic style. 

    As we leave Bergen, on the right side we’ll be able to see the city centre and the Lungegård Lake. 

    Bergen Travel Guide

    Ulriken Tunnel

    Tunnel

    The Ulriken Tunnel is the first tunnel we go through. The tunnel is relatively new; before then, the first 32km (20 mi) of the journey out of Bergen was very slow because the tracks navigated their way around the suburbs. Three tunnels were constructed to eliminate that part of the trip. The tunnels were completed in 1963, and the first train went through in 1964.

    The track is single track, which does create some traffic. A double track is planned. There is also a rumour that a road tunnel will be put through Mount Ulriken, which will eliminate the drive time from Arna down from 40 minutes to 10 minutes. 

    Tip: When we are in the Ulriken Tunnel, you lose internet signal. 

    Arna

    Borough
    • After the Ulriken Tunnel was completed in 1964, Arna station was constructed. The old Arna station still exists, and it is used for the heritage trains that operate on the old Voss Railway in the summer months (click here for more info). 

    Arna is a borough of Bergen with a population of 13,000. With the rumours of a road tunnel, Arna is becoming a more attractive place for people to live. 

    Osterøy

    Island

    After Arna, we begin travelling along the Osterfjord, which is on the left side. If you want to get some photos of the fjord you have to be quick – there are many, many tunnels on this part of the journey!

    The Osterfjord is around 27km (17 mi) long, 1 – 3km wide (0.62 – 1.86 mi) and the deepest point reaches a depth of 639m (2096ft) below sea level.

    On the other side is the island Osterøy. It is Norway’s largest inland island (i.e. not directly adjacent to the ocean) at 328km2 (127 sq mi).

    There are two road bridges that connect Osterøy to the mainland. We’ll pass one of them – the Osterøy Bridge – which is from 1997.

    Trengereid

    Village

    Trengereid is a small village that is still part of Bergen. The village is known for its fabrics factory, established in 1895. At one point, the Trengereid Fabrikker (1895-1999) was one of the major Norwegian manufacturers o lace, ribbon, cord and elastic. You can learn more about the factory on the Industrial Museum website.

    Trengereid is the starting point for many hikes on Bergen’s easternmost mountains, including the tallest mountain in Bergen municipality: Gullfjellet.

    On your right side will the the residential neighbourhood, high on the hillside. On your left will be the fjord, the old factories and the docking facilities.

    Only the Bergen – Voss railway stops here. The station was built in 1908.

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    Dale

    Village

    Dale is located on the western end of the Bergsdalen valley. The population is 1,193. Historically, Dale has been an industrial place. The town was built around the Dale Power Plant and the Dale Factories. When the factories were built around 1879, there was only one small farm. By the end of the 19th century, the factory had around 500 employees.

    On your right side, you’ll be able to see Dale Church (from 1956) as we approach the village. Also on the right side will be the Dale of Norway factory, a famous company that manufactures wool sweaters. There is also a textile mill here.

    The Dale Factory is open, and there is an outlet store if you want to buy a sweater or some yarn at a discounted price (the sweaters are famously expensive!). 

    The E16 (European Highway 16) runs through Dale. Dale Station is mostly used by the Bergen – Voss Railway, though some express trains do stop here. The station is from 1888.

    Voss

    Town

    The journey between Dale and Voss is very scenic, with a famous salmon river alongside side. 

    Eventually the tunnels end and the Voss Lake appears on our right-hand side. For most of the year, the mountains in the background will have snow on them. 

    With a population of 14,168, Voss is a large town and main hub for the region. It’s located between the Sognefjord and the Hardangerfjord, which has made it attractive for tourists. 

    Shortly on your right, just as the train approaches the station, is the Fleischer’s Hotel. The hotel was completed in 1889 in the Swiss Style. The name ‘Fleischer’ comes from a well-known family who have lived in Voss for many generations. The hotel is lovely, and if you want to break up the journey this is a highly recommended place to stay. Voss is a great place to spend a couple days – here’s the VisitNorway page for the town. 

    Voss Station was opened as the original terminal station of the Voss Line in 1883. It was on this platform that King Haakon officially opened the Bergen Railway on 27 November 1909.

    Sometimes the train will spend 10-20 minutes here before continuing. If that’s the case, you can leave the train and take some photos of the hotel and the troll statues that are along the platform.

    You will notice the huge Voss Gondola on the platform. This is a brand new attraction (completed in 2020), and if you go to the top you’ll have amazing views. Click here to view their website. 

    Shortly after leaving the station, you’ll pass the old Voss Church (Vangskyrkja). The church is from the mid-13th century and is built in a Gothic style. The whole region was Christianised by King Olav (Saint Olav), and the first church (a wooden church) was built shortly after that. This stone church replaced the old wooden church. Amazingly, the church was not destroyed during World War II.

    After the church, you’ll see the main downtown area of Voss. It’s very concrete and may seem unattractive. The reason for the concrete facades is the destruction from World War II. After the German invasion of Norway on 9 April 1940, Voss was the main place for the Norwegian Army in the West. The Nazis were met with strong resistance from the Norwegians here. To break down the resistance, the Luftwaffe bombed Voss on 23 and 24 April. The bombing completely destroyed the historic town centre. 

    Voss Travel Guide

    Mjølfjell

    Hiking Area

    Once we are out of Voss, the scenery begins to become more dramatic. The stretch between Voss and Myrdal takes us through a narrow, rocky valley. On your right will be spectacular views out to the mountains.

    We pass many stations along the way, but the train very rarely stops there. Sometimes they do if someone on board has requested the train stop. One such station that may have a stop is Mjølfjell.

    Mjølfjell is a village with mostly cabins – in total, there are about 500 cabins here. Most are used as vacation homes by people from Bergen. The area is very popular for hiking and skiing. In the village you’ll find a grocery store, a chapel, and a military training facility.

    The area grew after the establishment of the Bergen Line. There used to be a number of mountain hotels here. One still stands: the Mjølfjell Mountain Lodge. It is a high-end hotel with an outdoor pool, sauna, hiking trails, ski resort, and much more. Mjølfjell does have road access: the road actually ends here. All the following platforms have no road access.

    The name Mjølfjell refers to the mountain: the colour of the white anorthosite looks like flour, which in Norwegian is mjøl. So the name is ‘Flour Mountain’.

    Upsete

    Hiking Area

    Much like Mjølfjell, Upsete is another place the train may stop at if it’s requested. Upsete does not have a road access. There is a lovely place to stay: Upsete Fjellstove. The hotel is open in the summer and offers hikes and bikes that you can ride on the Rallarvegen.

    The train station opened in 1908 as Opset Station; the name Upsete came in 1921.

    Myrdal

    Junction with the Flåm Railway

    Myrdal is a tiny station but it is very well known due to its location. Myrdal is one end of the famous Flåm Railway – the train journey down to the Flåm village is often regarded as one of the most beautiful train journeys in the world.

    The connection to Flåm was not intended for tourists; rather, it was established to link the Sognefjord to the main Bergen – Oslo train and transport goods and people up from the fjord region. Originally, the connection was supposed to go from Voss down to Gudvangen. In 1908, the decision was made to have the train go from Myrdal to Flåm. They estimated that 22,000 passengers would use the train a year. In 2008, the passenger count was almost 600,000!

    The majority of people who come to Myrdal don’t spend long here; instead they use it as a place to change trains. There is no road connection to Myrdal.

    People did used to live in Myrdal; there are remains of old iron ore mining and animal husbandry. Nobody lives here anymore, though some do own cabins here.

    The station is located between two tunnels on the Bergen Line: The Gravahals Tunnel to the west and the Vatnahalsen Tunnel to the east.

    Myrdal has three platforms. Platform 1 is the principal platform on the mainline, and platform 2 is the alternative mainline platform located on the passing loop. The non-consecutively numbered platform 11 is the platform used by local trains to and from Flåm. The passing loop allows regional trains to cross with freight trains. At the station you’ll find toilets, a cafeteria, a souvenir shop, and a waiting room. The shops are only open in summer.

    Tip:  As we leave Myrdal, keep your eyes on the left. For a few seconds we’ll be able to see down the entire Flåm Valley. It’s just before going into a tunnel!

    Flåm Travel Guide

    Hallingskied

    Hiking Area

    Hallingskeid is the westernmost station of the high mountain stations. It is regarded as one of the snowiest areas on the Bergen Railway. Due to the ewather, the station is located inside a ‘snow superstructure’. These structures are built over railways to protect them from snow in the most exposed areas. A total of 9.5km of the Bergen Railway has a snow superstructure; mostly in Hallingskeid.

    There are no permanent residents at Hallingskeid; the station is operated remotely. In he area are many hiking trails, the Rallarvegen cycle path, and cabins.

    The train will stop here upon request. 

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    Finse Tunnel

    Tunnel

    Just before we get to Finse will be the Finse Tunnel. It is the longest tunnel on the Bergen Railway: 10,589m! (6.5 mi). The tunnel was built to ensure the train could operate all winter. The highest point on the Bergen Railway, 1237m above sea level (4058ft), is passed while we are inside the tunnel.

    Tip: As we leave the tunnel, keep an eye out on the right-hand side for a view of the glacier. If the weather is good, you’ll be able to see it here.

    Finse

    Highest Point

    We’ve made it to Finse! Finse is the highest station on the Bergen Railway and is known across Norway for its plethora of outdoor activities.

    Haugastøl

    Hiking Area

    Haugastøl is another high mountain station that can be stopped at upon request. The station has been unattended since 1997. The station is designed in a mix between the National Romantic Style and Art Nouveau and is from 1908. Haugastøl was originally known as Fjellberg, Norway’s highest altitude farm. People lived there until 1909, and today it is a holiday home.

    Haugastøl marks the end point of the Rallarvegen in the west.

    Geilo

    Ski Town

    Geilo is a small town with around 2,400 people living there. It’s located in the Hallingdal valley, a traditional region in Eastern Norway. Before the train came to Geilo, the area was remote with a few scattered farms.

    Geilo was established as a town when the Bergen Line was constructed. The train facilitated Geilo’s development as the first skiing resort in the country, and it is still one of the largest. It is also known for having some of the most luxurious and expensive holiday cabins in Norway.

    The ski season in Geilo runs from late October to late April, and there are numerous ski centres here for alpine and cross country skiing. Click here for more information about visiting Geilo. 

    Shortly after leaving Geilo, we pass the old Hol station from 1911. Hol Municipality is the largest municipality in Hallingdal, and 91% of the area is located at more than 900m above sea level. 

    The train continues to decrease dramatically. 

    Geilo Travel Guide

    Ål

    Village

    Ål is a small town with around 5,000 people living here. There is a strong cultural tradition here, and folk music is important to the community. The Folkemusikkveka is held every May. The traditional industry here is mostly farming. Many livestock farms ae in operation with small herds of sheep, dairy cattle, and goats. Crop growing is difficult because of the steep valley walls.

    Ål station is served by six express trains, and the station has historic locomotive stables that are protected by the Directorate of Cultural Heritage.

    We are roughly at the midpoint of the Bergen Railway. The train is now 228km from Oslo and 243km from Bergen.

    After Ål, the scenery begins to flatten with forests, rivers, and modest mountain areas. We pass Torpo Station, which used to be the central station in Hallingdal. The station is built in the Art Nouveau style and is identical to the station we saw at Geilo. One of the big attractions here is the Torpo Stave Church.

    Click here for the Ål Tourist Info Site. 

    Gol

    Village

    Gol is part of the Hallingdal Valley. There was a very ancient settlement here; in the year 1000, there were around 26 farms in Gol.

    Gol is located at the crossroads between the E7, Highway 52, and County Road 51, which takes you to Fagernes and the E16. From Gol, you have excellent connections to Valdres, Hemsedal, Laerdal and Sogn.

    Gol does have an industrial feel to it, but there are some fun things to do here as well. The Gordarike Family Park is a theme park designed around the Viking Era. A modern replica of the Gol Stave Church has been built as a tourist attraction in the park. Gol used to have a real stave church, but in the 19th century they sold it to the Oslo Folk Museum, where it currently stands. There’s also an open-air museum located in Gol. It is built around an old farm and consists of barns, lofts and wooden stables plus a mill, school and cabin.

    The station is from 1907 and is a busy station. Historically, this was a junction and important trading centre with heavy traffic.

    The station is served by up to six dailway express trains. This station opened in 1907.

    Just after the train leaves Gol, there are many farms located up on the valley side.

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    Nesbyen

    Town

    Nesbyen is a small town with a population of around 3,500. It has a historic town centre, called Gamle Nes. Most buildings here are from before 1900. The area was mentioned in documents from the 1600s, when the valley of Hallingdal was ruled from Nesbyen. Here’s a nice self-guided walk around Nesbyen. 

    One of the big attractions here is the Hallingdal Museum, which is one of the oldest open-air museums in Norway (from 1899). It has a large collection of wold buildings; the oldest one is the staveloftet from 1340. Another popular place to visit is the old meteor crater just noth of the town. About 650 million years ago, a 200-300m meteorite struck the area.

    There are many outdoor activities to do here. The most popular hike is up Hallingnatten, which is 1314m above sea level. From the top you can see most of Southern Norway, including Jotunheimen in the north and Gaustatoppen in the southwest.

    Nesbyen is known around Norway for having the highest recorded temperature in the country. The record was 35.6C, recorded on 20 June 1970.

    The E7 is located along Nesbyen, which is built over an ancient trade route from Valdres through to Odda in Western Norway.

    The station is served by up to six daily express trains. This station opened in 1907. Trains often stop here. This used to be a central station equipped with turntable for turning locomotives and several industrial tracks.

    Just after Nesbyen is the railway’s longest straight stretch. There are dense forest on both sides of the train. The railway follows the eastern side of the Hallingdal River, while the national highway is on the opposite side.

    Tip: Keep an eye out for the Austvoll Water Tower on the right. In the era of steam locomotives, these water towers were common along the railway. The train had to stop often to replenish so the pressure on the boiler didn’t fail.

    Flå

    Town

    Flå is the last settlement we’ll pass in the Hallingdal valley. Like Nesbyen and Ål, it’s located on the ancient trade route that went through Valdres to Odda in Western Norway. Flå has a population of around 1,000.

    Flå is surorunded by stunning nature. There are forests, agriculture, and mountains as high as 1500m. Flå’s coat-of-arms is the head of a black bear. Close to the town is the conservation area where Norway’s last permanent bear population lived. Today you can see bears in Flå if you visit the Bear Park, which is popular with kids. They don’t just have bears; they also have elk, deer, wolf and lynx.

    The station is served by up two daily express trains. This station opened in 1907. We don’t see much of the village from the station because it’s about 1km away.

    After leaving Flå, we follow the Hallingdal River. Eventually we’ll start passing the Krøder Lake, which was named “Norway’s finest Lake” by Fridtjof Nansen. 

    Hønefoss

    Town

    Hønefoss is a large town and central hub with a population of around 14,000. The town name comes from the waterfall that runs through the town; you will get a glimpse of it as the train leaves the station. The town experienced huge growth during the beginning of industrialisation; the waterfall was exploited for power and sawmills went up in the region. The railway to Drammen was also important for the industrial town.

    Hønefoss is located on the E16, which is the main highway between Bergen and Oslo. It’s also connected to the Norwegian National Road 35 and the National Road 7. The town is located to several factories, including Norske Skog Follum, which works in the timber industry.

    There are many things to see and do in Hønefoss. One of the highlights is the Ringerikes Museum, which is known for its collection of iron, rune stones, and for holding the private collection of Jørgen Engebretsen Moe. Jørgen was a Norwegian author best known for writing a collection of Norwegian folkales which he edited in collaboration with Peter Christen Asbjørnsen. The Norwegian Train Museum is also located here, where the old locomotives are. In cooperation with the Norwegian Railway Club, it is working on the restoration, maintenance and operation of all railway equipment.

    By the station is one of the country’s largest stone vault bridges, built in granite.

    The stretch of railway between Drammen and Hønefoss was completed in 1868 and was used primarily for cargo.

    The idea of a railway between Drammen and Hønefoss was launched in 1846, before any other railways were constructed in Norway. However, nothing happened for a long time. In fact, even the idea of a canal was floated. In 1863, Parliament approved construction of a line between Hønefoss and Drammen. The railway was completed in 1868. The next plan was the Bergen Line, which opened in 1909.

    The region we are in is called Ringerike. It is rich in history and ancient culture. The region has a rich food culture, and the Ringerikspotatoes are quite famous.

    After we leave the station, we’ll be going alongside Tyrifjord’s western side. Tyrifjord is actually the country’s fifth largest lake, and the maximum depth is about 330m. There are 13 fish species in the lake, making it known for its rich fisheries. 

    Vikersund

    Town

    Vikersund is a small town with a population of around 3,200. Historically, the town has been important for the paper industry. Timber was floated down on the Tyrifjord to the Drammen River, where it could then be exported.

    Today Vikersund is known amongst Norwegians for its Ski Jumping Centre. The Vikersund Ski Jump is the world’s largest, and there are seven different slopes within the complex.

    Vikersund was part of the Krøder Railway, which was completed in 1872 and primarily used for industry and transporting passengers. In the summer they operate special steam trains that you can ride.

    After Vikkersund the train passes several old industrial sites that grew up along the river when industrial travel took over towards the end of the 19th century.

    Hokksund

    Town

    Hokksund is a small community that was built up around an old farm. Part of the growth of the town can be attributed to the nearby silver mines at Kongsberg. When silver was discovered in Kongsberg in 1623, the King decided that a road should be built between Kongsberg and Hokksund. This road is the first official road in Norway.

    The railway came to Hokksund in 1866, and this gave way to the development of the local business community. Several businesses still stand along the railway track. The original station burned down in 1897, and the new one was finished a year later. The station is designed in a monumental masonry style, and it is the oldest and best preserved station on this part of the journey.

    After Hokksund, you go across the plainlands of the Drammen Valley. The Drammen river is on our left.

    Drammen

    City

    Drammen is a large city with around 60,000 people living here. The city is located west of the Oslofjord on the Drammen River. Drammen was built up as a trading and industrial city; keep an eye out on the left as we go through Drammen; you’ll see beautiful old factories and the town centre.

    The station opened in 1866 when the railway between Hønefoss and Drammen was completed. From Drammen, you can change trains and take the Sørlandet Line towards Kristiansand and Stavanger.The station is also served by trains to Oslo, Kongsberg and Eidsvoll, regional trains on the Vestfold Line and express trains to Bergen and Kristiansand. Since 2009, it has been the terminus of the Oslo Airport Express train.

    The station has recently been modernised and expanded.

    Shortly after leaving Drammen, we pass the Drammensfjord on the right and the hill area towards Finnemarka on the right. This is one of the most fertile areas in the country.

    Sandvika

    Neighbourhood

    The train may stop at Sandvika. Sandvika has had city status since 2003. The Crown Prince’s residence is at Skaugum. The site goes back to the Middle Ages. It was handed to Prince Olav in 1929, and today it is private property of the royal family, unlike the Royal Palace and OscarsHall, which is owned by the state.

    Oslo Tunnel

    Tunnel

    The last part of our journey is not very scenic: we have to make our way to the other end of Oslo city centre, and to do that we must go through the Oslo Tunnel. The Oslo tunnel is about 3.6km long and opened in 1980, the same time as the Oslo Central Station. Before this, Oslo had two stations: Oslo East and Oslo West. As you can imagine, it was not very practical. Today Oslo West is the Nobel Peace Centre, while Oslo East has been expanded into Oslo Central Station.

    Oslo

    City

    You have made it to Oslo! You can find my guide to Oslo by clicking the button below. 

    Oslo Travel Guide

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