Geilo

  • Bergen, Eidfjord, Flåm, Geilo, Hardangerfjord, National Tourist Roads, Road-trips, Voss

    Drive it Yourself: the Hardangervidda Tourist Road

    Drive it Yourself: Hardangervidda Tourist Road

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    The drive: Hardangervidda Tourist Road

    Eidfjord

    This drive begins in Eidfjord. You can find a detailed guide to Eidford below. 

    Eidfjord Travel Guide

    Eio River & Eidfjord Lake

    Natural Attraction

    The river is 2.1km (1.3 mi) long and runs from lake Eidfjord down into the Eid Fjord. We’ll see the Eidfjord Lake soon; it’s a moraine-dammed lake located just outside the village of Eidfjord.

    Øvre Eidfjord

    Village

    Øvre Eidfjord is a small village on the southern end of the Eidfjord Lake. The town has a population of around 200 and it serves as the last major stop before crossing the Hardangervidda Plateau.

    Norsk Natursenter

    Museum

    Øvre Eidfjord is home to the Norsk Natursenter, which is where you can learn about the nature in the area. Technology is used to allow for interactive experiences and learn about the flora and fauna of the area. There’s also a lovely film about the plateau made by Ivo Caprino. If you have the time, I recommend stopping here to learn a little more about Hardangervidda.

    Måbødalen

    Natural Attraction

    Måbødalen is a unique and narrow valley that will take you from Øvre Eidfjord to Hardangervidda. The deep and steep valley is the result of ice and water having cut into the slacker and more open valleys. The valley is studied with regards to its geological process and the interaction between ice and rivers.

    The valley was almost impassable before 1790, when bridges were built, and a stairway was completed. The first road was built here in the early 20th century; it opened in 1916 and included three bridges. The road is known for its hairpin turns, and today is only for cyclists and pedestrians. The original road through the valley was the first road between east and west Norway over Hardangervidda.

    Luckily for us there is now a new road; the new road is from 1986 and is wider and has many more tunnels.

    Johan Christian Dahl painted Måbødalen, a landscape painting that is on display at the KODE art museum in Bergen. It’s pictured above. 

    Before you get to the more dramatic part of the valley, you’ll pass a small museum about the cultural landscape of Måbødalen.

    Vøringsfossen

    Natural Attraction

    Vøringsfossen is the 83rd highest waterfall in Norway, which itself isn’t an impressive statistic. Rather, it is the setting that makes Vøringsfossen worth seeing. The waterfall has a total drop of 182m (597ft) and is perhaps the most famous waterfall in the country.

    The waterfall was hardly known to anyone besides the locals until 1821, when professor Christopher Hansteen estimated the height of the waterfall. He was on his way to Hardangervidda to make astronomical observations at the time. The way he estimated the height was by throwing stones down the edge and measuring the time they took to fall with his pocket watch. He estimated the height to be 280m (920ft); in 1893 the real height was realised by using string.

    In 2020, a new pedestrian bridge opened across Vøringsfossen; it was placed in sections by helicopter. The pedestrian bridge has received a lot of criticism, which many describing it as quite ugly.

    Fossli Hotel

    Hotel

    Fossli Hotel is a historic hotel overlooking the Måbø Valley and Vøringsfossen waterfall. The hotel was built by Ola L. Garen (1857 – 1915), who saw the potential of the area and the slow introduction of tourists. Before the hotel, there was only a walking path up the valley with 1,500 stairs. Thanks to the hotel, a new road was built through the valley instead. All the materials to build the hotel had to be carried on horseback from Eidfjord up to the top of the hill. Today the hotel is run by Erik Garen, the great grandson of Ola Garen.

    Fossli Hotel is built in the art nouveau style.

    The hotel owns a Zimmerman piano where Edvard Grieg composed Norwegian Folk Songs, Opus 66.

    Room rates

    Hardangervidda Plateau

    Scenic Area

    Hardangervidda is a well-known mountain plateau that spreads across parts of western, central, eastern, and southern Norway. It is the largest plateau of its kind (peneplain, or eroded plain) in Europe, and it has a cold year-round alpine climate. The highest point is the Sandfloegga, which reaches a height of 1,721m (5,646ft).

    The landscape is characterised by barren, treeless, moorland with lakes, rivers, and streams. The western side is rockier, while the eastern side is flatter and more heavily vegetated. The geology is extremely ancient; the rolling fells are remnants of mountains that were worn down by glaciers during the ice ages.

    Settlements from the Stone Age have been found in the area. The people who lived here were likely linked to the reindeer migration. Additionally, there are ancient trails across the plateau. Hardangervidda is still a key route between east and west; highway 7 being the way across.

    The Hardangervidda Plateau is above the tree line. The alpine climate means that there are arctic animals and plants here further south than anywhere else in Europe. There is a large wild reindeer herd here; it is believed to be the largest in the world with up to 10,000 reindeer.

    In 1981 much of Hardangervidda was designated a national park. The Norwegian Mountain Touring Association (DNT) has a network of huts and paths across the plateau. There are two visitor centres: the Norsk Natursenter in Øvre Eidfjord and the Hardanger Nasjonalparksenter, close to Rjukan.

    The Star Wars movie, The Empire Strikes Back, was shot on Hardangervidda; the plateau provided the basis for the Hoth sequences.

    Sysendammen

    Dam

    Sysendammen (Sysen Dam) is a rock-filled embankment dam. It holds back Lake Sysen, which is the main reservoir for the Sy-Sima Hydroelectric Power Station. The water supply to Vøringsfossen is regulated by the dam, and there is a requirement for a minimum water supply during the summer.

    The dam is 81m (266 ft) high, 1,157m (3,796ft) long and 248m (814ft) wide.

    Buskerud (Formerly known as Viken) County

    We have crossed into the county that from 2020 – 2022 was known as Viken. At time of writing, the Viken sign was still by the road. This sign may not be up when you drive through; the county was established in 2020 with the merging of three separate counties. However, the three counties were not happy with the decision and in 2021 a parliamentary election saw the parties wanting to dissolve Viken win. On the 23rd of February 2022, a vote of 49 against 38 saw the decision to split Viken finalised. So, in the near future, Viken will be split up again. For purposes of this video, I’ll talk about the county that used to be here and will likely come back: Buskerud.

    Buskerud county is a historically important county in Norway. The area around Ringerike was likely a small kingdom and Norway’s kings Olav Tryggvason and Olav Haraldsson grew up in Ringerike.

    The first element of the name, buske, refers to ‘bishop’, while the last element means ‘clearing, farm’. Historically, the bishop’s farm was one of the largest in Buskerud and was important during the Reformation. The farm became property of the Danish Crown and served as the residence for the king’s bailiffs until 1668.

    Agriculture, lumber, wood-pulp mills, and other related industries are the county’s main economic activities. There is a lot of hydropower thanks to the rivers Begna and Rands. Buskerud also has a large, forested area.

    Hol Municipality

    Hol is a mountainous municipality that sees 90% of the area over 900m above sea level. The coat-of-arms depicts three silver anvils on a blue background. The anvil was chosen to symbolise the former smithies in the municipality. The municipality was famous for the production of axes, blades and knives, and iron mining took place here in the Viking Age.

    Samegammene

    Souvenir Shop

    Samegammene is a small shop and fur company that began sixty years ago, when Amund Johansen from Northern Norway was forced to sell his reindeer herd after World War II and move south. He took his family with him and settled in Hardangervidda, where he was given the job as a reindeer herder. However, he sustained an injury from that work and decided to focus on tourism instead.

    Several ‘gamme’ have been bult around Hardangervidda. A ‘gamme’ is an ancient form of an earth hut, and from these they sell Sami products and souvenirs. Here you will find souvenirs but also handmade fur mittens and hats. The building was owned by the daughter of Amund Johansen until 2017, when she sold it out of the family. The current owners keep the gamme in memory of Amund Johansen.  

    Haugastøl

    Ski Town

    Haugastøl is the first town you’ll visit after a while. It is primarily a ski resort with various hotels and cabins. There is also a train station here, Haugastøl station, which is on the Bergen – Oslo Railway.

    Haugastøl is one end of the popular Rallarvegen cycling route – it’s an 83km track from Haugastøl to Finse (a town not accessible by road, just train). The road was originally a service road used by workers building the Flåm Railway, but now it is one of the most famous cycling tracks in the country. 

    Ustaoset

    Ski Town

    Ustaoset is a small village located on the Bergen to Oslo Railway. The village came to prominence when the railway opened in 1909 as it was a good spot for people to visit to go skiing. Families from Bergen and Oslo built cabins in Ustaoset and used the train as a way to get there. Due to Norway’s strict laws, it is now very difficult to build a new cabin in Ustaoset. Whenever one is up for sale, it is very popular and is often sold very quickly and for a high price.

    Ustaoset is mentioned in Jo Nesbø’s book The Leopard; the mountain resort cabins play a key role in the murder mystery.

    Geilo

    Ski Town

    Geilo is the main town in Hol municipality and is one of the most well-known ski resorts in the country. The town is in the Hallingdal valley at roughly the halfway point on the Bergen to Oslo railway.

    Geilo is noted for being the first ski resort in Norway and it was built up after the opening of the railway in 1909. The ski season lasts from late October until late April, and there are numerous small ski centres that make up one resort: Geilo Skiheiser. In addition to 39 downhill slopes, there are 220km of cross-country ski tracks.

    In the town centre you’ll find some shops, a supermarket, and a few restaurants. Around 2,500 people live in Geilo all year round, so there is a school, cinema, library and police station.

    Hagafoss

    Village

    Hagafoss is a small village in the upper part of the Hallingdal valley. It is located on the main highway between Bergen and Oslo, but here we take the Fv50 (Norwegian county road 50) towards Aurland.

    Hol Gamle Kyrkje

    Historic Site

    Hol Gamle Kyrkje is a 13th century church in Hol municipality. The church was originally a small stave church but has been rebuilt multiple times. The last time it was rebuilt was in 1939, and today it doesn’t have the design that makes it a stave church. It’s believed the floors of the church are the original staves from the stave church. The church is also known for the fact that it has a gutter in the apse.

    Vestland County

    We have crossed back into Western Norway!

    Aurland Municipality

    Aurland is a municipality in Western Norway that includes the popular villages of Aurland, Flåm, Undredal and Gudvangen. It is also home to the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Naerøyfjord.

    People settled here around 2,000 years ago to farm the area, and agriculture is still important in Aurland. Tourism began coming here in the mid-19th century, primarily from England. They took part in sport fishing and hunting.

    The coat-of-arms depict a goat’s head; a goat is a symbol of the municipality because of their historic production and importance of goats cheese and goat farming.

    Aurland Valley

    Natural Attraction

    Aurlandsdalen is a 40km (25 mi) long valley that was carved out by glaciers.

    Aurlandsdalen represents some of the most beautiful and magnificent in Norwegian nature. The valley has been an important trade and traffic road from the ancient times and was probably in use from the early Viking Age. The route was the shortest route between western and eastern Norway in pre-historic times. There are a number of very old farms in the valley that were permanently inhabited until the turn of the 20th century. There are also mountain dairy farms here (called ‘støls’) that can be spotted high on the mountains.

    The rare mountain flower “mountain queen” can be found in the valley. There are almost 500 plant varieties here. The soil is very rich in minerals formed from phyllitt in the rocks.

    Today many use Aurlandsdalen as a popular day hike (6-7 hours), or you can hike all the way to Finse in 3-4 days. It is one of the best-known tourist tracks in Norway

    As we went down, you saw the huge powerlines. The Aurland river system was developed in the 1970s for power production. The environmental impacts of hydroelectric development are notable; the great waterfalls have been substantially reduced. With the introduction of the tunnels, the water level in the river gorges has been drastically reduced. The Aurlands River is now no longer one of the finest salmon rivers in Norway. Farmers no longer drive cattle, pigs and goats to spend the summer at the old farms. The valley has been characterised, like many other valleys, by gradual urbanisation.

    Aurland

    Village

    Aurland is a small village with a population of around 800. The village is the location of the Aurland Shoe Factory, where the famous penny loafers were first made. Another interesting place to visit in Aurland is the Vangen Church, a historic stone church from 1202.

    Aurlandsfjord

    Fjord

    The Aurlandsfjord is a 29km (18 mi) long fjord and is a branch of the Sognefjord, the longest fjord in Norway. The fjord is deep and narrow, generally reaching less than 2km (1.2 mi) wide. Most of the mountains are up to 1800m (5,900ft) tall.

    Flåm

    We have arrived at Flåm, our final destination for this drive. Flåm is a small population with around 300 people, but is one of the most visited places in Norway thanks to the Flåm Railway. 

    You can read the Flåm travel guide below. 

    Flåm Travel Guide

    Next Drive

    Flåm to Bergen

    Flåm to Bergen on the E16

    Follow the next drive as we make our way back to Bergen on the E16. 

    Flåm to Bergen

    Previous Drive

    Voss to Eidfjord

    Making a day trip out of Hardanger? Read about the stretch of road between Voss and Eidfjord. 

    Voss to Eidfjord

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Bergen, Geilo, Hønefoss, Oslo, Voss

    Everything You Need to Know About the Bergen Railway

    The Bergen Railway

    The Bergen Railway is undeniably one of the best ways to get between Bergen and Oslo. The entire journey, which takes around 7 hours, crosses valleys and mountains, passes lakes and fjords, and shows you some of the best Norway has to offer.

    Information online can be tricky, so I’ve gathered it all together in one straight-to-the-point article. After the practical information, you’ll find an overview of some of the stations you pass on the trip. 

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    Here’s everything you need to know before taking the Bergen Railway. Enjoy!

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    • Information about points of interest
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    • Information about points of interest
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    Brief Historical Overview

    The Bergen Railway was built between 1875 and 1909. The first section of the train to be built was the Voss Line, which runs between Bergen and Voss. It opened in 1883 after over a decade of planning and construction. The plan had always been to extend it to Oslo, but by the time the Voss Line was complete, Norway was in a recession. Parliament was not willing to give more money. In 1894, the matter was brought to parliament, and they voted 60 in favour (53 against) to build the Bergen Line. 12 different routes were surveyed over a period of six years. Construction finally began in 1901.

    The construction process, as you might imagine, was very challenging. The high altitudes in a region without roads and a freezing cold climate made it difficult for the workers. The tunnels were all built manually through solid gneiss. The laying of track started in 1906 and took around one year to be completed.

    The original train was a standard gauge. The first services started on the 1st of July 1907 between Voss and Myrdal. An official opening was attempted on 9 December 1907, but the train got stuck in heavy snow. The first train between Bergen and Oslo ran on the 25th of November 1909, and two days later the railway was officially opened at Voss by King Haakon VII.

    The railway was used a lot during World War II for both civilian and military transportation.

    After the war, plans were made to electrify the train. The line was electrified in four stages between 1961 and 1964.

    Practical Information

    Timings

    • How many trains run a day? Four trains to between Bergen and Oslo a day. 
    • What time should I take it? If you are doing the Bergen to Oslo trip with Norway in a Nutshell all in one day, take the train that leaves Bergen around 8am. It’s also a good time to take the train because it gives you time to explore Oslo. The train gets into Oslo around 2:45pm.
    • What’s the best time of year to go? The train operates all year. It really depends on when you are travelling. It’s crowded in summer. I prefer spring: you get all the flowers and trees blooming closer to sea level, but there’s still snow on the mountains. 

    Tickets & Pricing

    • Buying in advance: Tickets can be bought up to 90 days in advance on our national rail website, vy.no. 
    • Does it sell out? Yes! In summer and over winter holidays, it is very common for the train to sell out. Book as early as possible.
    • Are there any discounts?If you keep an eye out and book as early as possible, you may find the minipris tickets. These are heavily discounted, but they do sell out quickly!
    • Norway in a Nutshell: You can book the trip on the Norway in a Nutshell website, and this is worth doing if you are actually doing the Norway in a Nutshell tour (Bergen – Voss – Gudvangen – Flåm – Myrdal – Oslo). However, they tend to charge more than if you just booked it on your own. It’s a matter of ease and convenience. 
    • How much do tickets cost? Ticket prices change a lot depending on the time of year and how close the train is to selling out

    Komfort Class

    • Komfort Class is the ‘first class’ option on the train
    • Komfort Class comes with complimentary tea and cofee, plus charging ports
    • Is it worth it? Honestly, I think so. While the ‘advantages’ of Komfort class don’t seem worth the extra fare, I think it’s worth it because it’s so much more relaxing. In summer, the train gets overcrowded with noisy travellers and luggage. The Komfort section tends to be where the Norwegians go because it’s quieter. Being silent in this section is a little more enforced too. 

    Services on board

    • Cafe: There is a cafe on the train. They have drinks, sandwiches, chocolates, coffee, hot dogs, pizzas, and some warm food items (like a curry with rice). The café gets incredibly busy around the middle of the trip, and the carriage is tiny. It is very unpleasant if you try to get food then. Some items will sell out, too. If you wait to the end of the trip, you’ll be left with hot dogs as an option. I recommend buying cold food early and saving it until you want it. It’s cheaper to buy food ahead of time and bring it on board with you. 
    • Alcohol? No alcohol is served on board
    • Wifi? Wifi is on the train in theory, but how well it works depends on what part of Norway you’re in. For example, it rarely works in the mountains. 
    • Bringing Children: Close to the café is a playroom for children. It’s called the ‘Family Car’. 
    • Language: signs on board are in Norwegian. Announcements are made in both English and Norwegian. 

    Apps

    • The Vy app allows you to download tickets and show them to the conductor. It’s much better than printing the ticket
    • The BaneNOR app allows you to track trains

    Taking photos

    • Bergen to Voss: Mostly the left side
    • Voss to Myrdal: Mostly the right side
    • Myrdal to Finse: Mostly the right side
    • Finse to Geilo: Mostly the right side
    • Geilo to Oslo: Both sides work well.

    For the photographers, the best places to take photos are in the doorways. At each stop, you can open the doors and take a quick snapshot. Just be wary of how long the train is stopping!

    Buss for tog

    If you see this, it means that part of the train journey has been replaced with a bus. It’s inconvenient but it happens if there’s work needed on the train. The bus doesn’t provide food or stops for toilets, so plan in advance.

    Luggage

    The train has very limited space for luggage. If you are breaking up the trip to do Norway in a Nutshell, I recommend having your luggage delivered to your hotel in Bergen or Oslo, depending on which direction you are going. Then take a small overnight bag on board the train with you. Check out the service ‘Porter Service’ (www.porterservice.no)

    Tunnel Reality

    There are over 180 tunnels on the Bergen Railway, so at times your view will be limited. This is very true in Western Norway; you must be quick with the camera!

    The journey: Bergen to Oslo

    Bergen

    City

    Bergen Station opened in 1913, four years after the Bergen Line was completed. Originally, the station was located further west (near where KODE 2 gallery is today). 

    At the time of construction, it was regarded as one of the grandest stations in Norway. The material used is granite and the style of construction is the National Romantic style. 

    As we leave Bergen, on the right side we’ll be able to see the city centre and the Lungegård Lake. 

    Bergen Travel Guide

    Ulriken Tunnel

    Tunnel

    The Ulriken Tunnel is the first tunnel we go through. The tunnel is relatively new; before then, the first 32km (20 mi) of the journey out of Bergen was very slow because the tracks navigated their way around the suburbs. Three tunnels were constructed to eliminate that part of the trip. The tunnels were completed in 1963, and the first train went through in 1964.

    The track is single track, which does create some traffic. A double track is planned. There is also a rumour that a road tunnel will be put through Mount Ulriken, which will eliminate the drive time from Arna down from 40 minutes to 10 minutes. 

    Tip: When we are in the Ulriken Tunnel, you lose internet signal. 

    Arna

    Borough
    • After the Ulriken Tunnel was completed in 1964, Arna station was constructed. The old Arna station still exists, and it is used for the heritage trains that operate on the old Voss Railway in the summer months (click here for more info). 

    Arna is a borough of Bergen with a population of 13,000. With the rumours of a road tunnel, Arna is becoming a more attractive place for people to live. 

    Osterøy

    Island

    After Arna, we begin travelling along the Osterfjord, which is on the left side. If you want to get some photos of the fjord you have to be quick – there are many, many tunnels on this part of the journey!

    The Osterfjord is around 27km (17 mi) long, 1 – 3km wide (0.62 – 1.86 mi) and the deepest point reaches a depth of 639m (2096ft) below sea level.

    On the other side is the island Osterøy. It is Norway’s largest inland island (i.e. not directly adjacent to the ocean) at 328km2 (127 sq mi).

    There are two road bridges that connect Osterøy to the mainland. We’ll pass one of them – the Osterøy Bridge – which is from 1997.

    Trengereid

    Village

    Trengereid is a small village that is still part of Bergen. The village is known for its fabrics factory, established in 1895. At one point, the Trengereid Fabrikker (1895-1999) was one of the major Norwegian manufacturers o lace, ribbon, cord and elastic. You can learn more about the factory on the Industrial Museum website.

    Trengereid is the starting point for many hikes on Bergen’s easternmost mountains, including the tallest mountain in Bergen municipality: Gullfjellet.

    On your right side will the the residential neighbourhood, high on the hillside. On your left will be the fjord, the old factories and the docking facilities.

    Only the Bergen – Voss railway stops here. The station was built in 1908.

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    Dale

    Village

    Dale is located on the western end of the Bergsdalen valley. The population is 1,193. Historically, Dale has been an industrial place. The town was built around the Dale Power Plant and the Dale Factories. When the factories were built around 1879, there was only one small farm. By the end of the 19th century, the factory had around 500 employees.

    On your right side, you’ll be able to see Dale Church (from 1956) as we approach the village. Also on the right side will be the Dale of Norway factory, a famous company that manufactures wool sweaters. There is also a textile mill here.

    The Dale Factory is open, and there is an outlet store if you want to buy a sweater or some yarn at a discounted price (the sweaters are famously expensive!). 

    The E16 (European Highway 16) runs through Dale. Dale Station is mostly used by the Bergen – Voss Railway, though some express trains do stop here. The station is from 1888.

    Voss

    Town

    The journey between Dale and Voss is very scenic, with a famous salmon river alongside side. 

    Eventually the tunnels end and the Voss Lake appears on our right-hand side. For most of the year, the mountains in the background will have snow on them. 

    With a population of 14,168, Voss is a large town and main hub for the region. It’s located between the Sognefjord and the Hardangerfjord, which has made it attractive for tourists. 

    Shortly on your right, just as the train approaches the station, is the Fleischer’s Hotel. The hotel was completed in 1889 in the Swiss Style. The name ‘Fleischer’ comes from a well-known family who have lived in Voss for many generations. The hotel is lovely, and if you want to break up the journey this is a highly recommended place to stay. Voss is a great place to spend a couple days – here’s the VisitNorway page for the town. 

    Voss Station was opened as the original terminal station of the Voss Line in 1883. It was on this platform that King Haakon officially opened the Bergen Railway on 27 November 1909.

    Sometimes the train will spend 10-20 minutes here before continuing. If that’s the case, you can leave the train and take some photos of the hotel and the troll statues that are along the platform.

    You will notice the huge Voss Gondola on the platform. This is a brand new attraction (completed in 2020), and if you go to the top you’ll have amazing views. Click here to view their website. 

    Shortly after leaving the station, you’ll pass the old Voss Church (Vangskyrkja). The church is from the mid-13th century and is built in a Gothic style. The whole region was Christianised by King Olav (Saint Olav), and the first church (a wooden church) was built shortly after that. This stone church replaced the old wooden church. Amazingly, the church was not destroyed during World War II.

    After the church, you’ll see the main downtown area of Voss. It’s very concrete and may seem unattractive. The reason for the concrete facades is the destruction from World War II. After the German invasion of Norway on 9 April 1940, Voss was the main place for the Norwegian Army in the West. The Nazis were met with strong resistance from the Norwegians here. To break down the resistance, the Luftwaffe bombed Voss on 23 and 24 April. The bombing completely destroyed the historic town centre. 

    Voss Travel Guide

    Mjølfjell

    Hiking Area

    Once we are out of Voss, the scenery begins to become more dramatic. The stretch between Voss and Myrdal takes us through a narrow, rocky valley. On your right will be spectacular views out to the mountains.

    We pass many stations along the way, but the train very rarely stops there. Sometimes they do if someone on board has requested the train stop. One such station that may have a stop is Mjølfjell.

    Mjølfjell is a village with mostly cabins – in total, there are about 500 cabins here. Most are used as vacation homes by people from Bergen. The area is very popular for hiking and skiing. In the village you’ll find a grocery store, a chapel, and a military training facility.

    The area grew after the establishment of the Bergen Line. There used to be a number of mountain hotels here. One still stands: the Mjølfjell Mountain Lodge. It is a high-end hotel with an outdoor pool, sauna, hiking trails, ski resort, and much more. Mjølfjell does have road access: the road actually ends here. All the following platforms have no road access.

    The name Mjølfjell refers to the mountain: the colour of the white anorthosite looks like flour, which in Norwegian is mjøl. So the name is ‘Flour Mountain’.

    Upsete

    Hiking Area

    Much like Mjølfjell, Upsete is another place the train may stop at if it’s requested. Upsete does not have a road access. There is a lovely place to stay: Upsete Fjellstove. The hotel is open in the summer and offers hikes and bikes that you can ride on the Rallarvegen.

    The train station opened in 1908 as Opset Station; the name Upsete came in 1921.

    Myrdal

    Junction with the Flåm Railway

    Myrdal is a tiny station but it is very well known due to its location. Myrdal is one end of the famous Flåm Railway – the train journey down to the Flåm village is often regarded as one of the most beautiful train journeys in the world.

    The connection to Flåm was not intended for tourists; rather, it was established to link the Sognefjord to the main Bergen – Oslo train and transport goods and people up from the fjord region. Originally, the connection was supposed to go from Voss down to Gudvangen. In 1908, the decision was made to have the train go from Myrdal to Flåm. They estimated that 22,000 passengers would use the train a year. In 2008, the passenger count was almost 600,000!

    The majority of people who come to Myrdal don’t spend long here; instead they use it as a place to change trains. There is no road connection to Myrdal.

    People did used to live in Myrdal; there are remains of old iron ore mining and animal husbandry. Nobody lives here anymore, though some do own cabins here.

    The station is located between two tunnels on the Bergen Line: The Gravahals Tunnel to the west and the Vatnahalsen Tunnel to the east.

    Myrdal has three platforms. Platform 1 is the principal platform on the mainline, and platform 2 is the alternative mainline platform located on the passing loop. The non-consecutively numbered platform 11 is the platform used by local trains to and from Flåm. The passing loop allows regional trains to cross with freight trains. At the station you’ll find toilets, a cafeteria, a souvenir shop, and a waiting room. The shops are only open in summer.

    Tip:  As we leave Myrdal, keep your eyes on the left. For a few seconds we’ll be able to see down the entire Flåm Valley. It’s just before going into a tunnel!

    Flåm Travel Guide

    Hallingskied

    Hiking Area

    Hallingskeid is the westernmost station of the high mountain stations. It is regarded as one of the snowiest areas on the Bergen Railway. Due to the ewather, the station is located inside a ‘snow superstructure’. These structures are built over railways to protect them from snow in the most exposed areas. A total of 9.5km of the Bergen Railway has a snow superstructure; mostly in Hallingskeid.

    There are no permanent residents at Hallingskeid; the station is operated remotely. In he area are many hiking trails, the Rallarvegen cycle path, and cabins.

    The train will stop here upon request. 

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    Finse Tunnel

    Tunnel

    Just before we get to Finse will be the Finse Tunnel. It is the longest tunnel on the Bergen Railway: 10,589m! (6.5 mi). The tunnel was built to ensure the train could operate all winter. The highest point on the Bergen Railway, 1237m above sea level (4058ft), is passed while we are inside the tunnel.

    Tip: As we leave the tunnel, keep an eye out on the right-hand side for a view of the glacier. If the weather is good, you’ll be able to see it here.

    Finse

    Highest Point

    We’ve made it to Finse! Finse is the highest station on the Bergen Railway and is known across Norway for its plethora of outdoor activities.

    Haugastøl

    Hiking Area

    Haugastøl is another high mountain station that can be stopped at upon request. The station has been unattended since 1997. The station is designed in a mix between the National Romantic Style and Art Nouveau and is from 1908. Haugastøl was originally known as Fjellberg, Norway’s highest altitude farm. People lived there until 1909, and today it is a holiday home.

    Haugastøl marks the end point of the Rallarvegen in the west.

    Geilo

    Ski Town

    Geilo is a small town with around 2,400 people living there. It’s located in the Hallingdal valley, a traditional region in Eastern Norway. Before the train came to Geilo, the area was remote with a few scattered farms.

    Geilo was established as a town when the Bergen Line was constructed. The train facilitated Geilo’s development as the first skiing resort in the country, and it is still one of the largest. It is also known for having some of the most luxurious and expensive holiday cabins in Norway.

    The ski season in Geilo runs from late October to late April, and there are numerous ski centres here for alpine and cross country skiing. Click here for more information about visiting Geilo. 

    Shortly after leaving Geilo, we pass the old Hol station from 1911. Hol Municipality is the largest municipality in Hallingdal, and 91% of the area is located at more than 900m above sea level. 

    The train continues to decrease dramatically. 

    Geilo Travel Guide

    Ål

    Village

    Ål is a small town with around 5,000 people living here. There is a strong cultural tradition here, and folk music is important to the community. The Folkemusikkveka is held every May. The traditional industry here is mostly farming. Many livestock farms ae in operation with small herds of sheep, dairy cattle, and goats. Crop growing is difficult because of the steep valley walls.

    Ål station is served by six express trains, and the station has historic locomotive stables that are protected by the Directorate of Cultural Heritage.

    We are roughly at the midpoint of the Bergen Railway. The train is now 228km from Oslo and 243km from Bergen.

    After Ål, the scenery begins to flatten with forests, rivers, and modest mountain areas. We pass Torpo Station, which used to be the central station in Hallingdal. The station is built in the Art Nouveau style and is identical to the station we saw at Geilo. One of the big attractions here is the Torpo Stave Church.

    Click here for the Ål Tourist Info Site. 

    Gol

    Village

    Gol is part of the Hallingdal Valley. There was a very ancient settlement here; in the year 1000, there were around 26 farms in Gol.

    Gol is located at the crossroads between the E7, Highway 52, and County Road 51, which takes you to Fagernes and the E16. From Gol, you have excellent connections to Valdres, Hemsedal, Laerdal and Sogn.

    Gol does have an industrial feel to it, but there are some fun things to do here as well. The Gordarike Family Park is a theme park designed around the Viking Era. A modern replica of the Gol Stave Church has been built as a tourist attraction in the park. Gol used to have a real stave church, but in the 19th century they sold it to the Oslo Folk Museum, where it currently stands. There’s also an open-air museum located in Gol. It is built around an old farm and consists of barns, lofts and wooden stables plus a mill, school and cabin.

    The station is from 1907 and is a busy station. Historically, this was a junction and important trading centre with heavy traffic.

    The station is served by up to six dailway express trains. This station opened in 1907.

    Just after the train leaves Gol, there are many farms located up on the valley side.

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    Nesbyen

    Town

    Nesbyen is a small town with a population of around 3,500. It has a historic town centre, called Gamle Nes. Most buildings here are from before 1900. The area was mentioned in documents from the 1600s, when the valley of Hallingdal was ruled from Nesbyen. Here’s a nice self-guided walk around Nesbyen. 

    One of the big attractions here is the Hallingdal Museum, which is one of the oldest open-air museums in Norway (from 1899). It has a large collection of wold buildings; the oldest one is the staveloftet from 1340. Another popular place to visit is the old meteor crater just noth of the town. About 650 million years ago, a 200-300m meteorite struck the area.

    There are many outdoor activities to do here. The most popular hike is up Hallingnatten, which is 1314m above sea level. From the top you can see most of Southern Norway, including Jotunheimen in the north and Gaustatoppen in the southwest.

    Nesbyen is known around Norway for having the highest recorded temperature in the country. The record was 35.6C, recorded on 20 June 1970.

    The E7 is located along Nesbyen, which is built over an ancient trade route from Valdres through to Odda in Western Norway.

    The station is served by up to six daily express trains. This station opened in 1907. Trains often stop here. This used to be a central station equipped with turntable for turning locomotives and several industrial tracks.

    Just after Nesbyen is the railway’s longest straight stretch. There are dense forest on both sides of the train. The railway follows the eastern side of the Hallingdal River, while the national highway is on the opposite side.

    Tip: Keep an eye out for the Austvoll Water Tower on the right. In the era of steam locomotives, these water towers were common along the railway. The train had to stop often to replenish so the pressure on the boiler didn’t fail.

    Flå

    Town

    Flå is the last settlement we’ll pass in the Hallingdal valley. Like Nesbyen and Ål, it’s located on the ancient trade route that went through Valdres to Odda in Western Norway. Flå has a population of around 1,000.

    Flå is surorunded by stunning nature. There are forests, agriculture, and mountains as high as 1500m. Flå’s coat-of-arms is the head of a black bear. Close to the town is the conservation area where Norway’s last permanent bear population lived. Today you can see bears in Flå if you visit the Bear Park, which is popular with kids. They don’t just have bears; they also have elk, deer, wolf and lynx.

    The station is served by up two daily express trains. This station opened in 1907. We don’t see much of the village from the station because it’s about 1km away.

    After leaving Flå, we follow the Hallingdal River. Eventually we’ll start passing the Krøder Lake, which was named “Norway’s finest Lake” by Fridtjof Nansen. 

    Hønefoss

    Town

    Hønefoss is a large town and central hub with a population of around 14,000. The town name comes from the waterfall that runs through the town; you will get a glimpse of it as the train leaves the station. The town experienced huge growth during the beginning of industrialisation; the waterfall was exploited for power and sawmills went up in the region. The railway to Drammen was also important for the industrial town.

    Hønefoss is located on the E16, which is the main highway between Bergen and Oslo. It’s also connected to the Norwegian National Road 35 and the National Road 7. The town is located to several factories, including Norske Skog Follum, which works in the timber industry.

    There are many things to see and do in Hønefoss. One of the highlights is the Ringerikes Museum, which is known for its collection of iron, rune stones, and for holding the private collection of Jørgen Engebretsen Moe. Jørgen was a Norwegian author best known for writing a collection of Norwegian folkales which he edited in collaboration with Peter Christen Asbjørnsen. The Norwegian Train Museum is also located here, where the old locomotives are. In cooperation with the Norwegian Railway Club, it is working on the restoration, maintenance and operation of all railway equipment.

    By the station is one of the country’s largest stone vault bridges, built in granite.

    The stretch of railway between Drammen and Hønefoss was completed in 1868 and was used primarily for cargo.

    The idea of a railway between Drammen and Hønefoss was launched in 1846, before any other railways were constructed in Norway. However, nothing happened for a long time. In fact, even the idea of a canal was floated. In 1863, Parliament approved construction of a line between Hønefoss and Drammen. The railway was completed in 1868. The next plan was the Bergen Line, which opened in 1909.

    The region we are in is called Ringerike. It is rich in history and ancient culture. The region has a rich food culture, and the Ringerikspotatoes are quite famous.

    After we leave the station, we’ll be going alongside Tyrifjord’s western side. Tyrifjord is actually the country’s fifth largest lake, and the maximum depth is about 330m. There are 13 fish species in the lake, making it known for its rich fisheries. 

    Vikersund

    Town

    Vikersund is a small town with a population of around 3,200. Historically, the town has been important for the paper industry. Timber was floated down on the Tyrifjord to the Drammen River, where it could then be exported.

    Today Vikersund is known amongst Norwegians for its Ski Jumping Centre. The Vikersund Ski Jump is the world’s largest, and there are seven different slopes within the complex.

    Vikersund was part of the Krøder Railway, which was completed in 1872 and primarily used for industry and transporting passengers. In the summer they operate special steam trains that you can ride.

    After Vikkersund the train passes several old industrial sites that grew up along the river when industrial travel took over towards the end of the 19th century.

    Hokksund

    Town

    Hokksund is a small community that was built up around an old farm. Part of the growth of the town can be attributed to the nearby silver mines at Kongsberg. When silver was discovered in Kongsberg in 1623, the King decided that a road should be built between Kongsberg and Hokksund. This road is the first official road in Norway.

    The railway came to Hokksund in 1866, and this gave way to the development of the local business community. Several businesses still stand along the railway track. The original station burned down in 1897, and the new one was finished a year later. The station is designed in a monumental masonry style, and it is the oldest and best preserved station on this part of the journey.

    After Hokksund, you go across the plainlands of the Drammen Valley. The Drammen river is on our left.

    Drammen

    City

    Drammen is a large city with around 60,000 people living here. The city is located west of the Oslofjord on the Drammen River. Drammen was built up as a trading and industrial city; keep an eye out on the left as we go through Drammen; you’ll see beautiful old factories and the town centre.

    The station opened in 1866 when the railway between Hønefoss and Drammen was completed. From Drammen, you can change trains and take the Sørlandet Line towards Kristiansand and Stavanger.The station is also served by trains to Oslo, Kongsberg and Eidsvoll, regional trains on the Vestfold Line and express trains to Bergen and Kristiansand. Since 2009, it has been the terminus of the Oslo Airport Express train.

    The station has recently been modernised and expanded.

    Shortly after leaving Drammen, we pass the Drammensfjord on the right and the hill area towards Finnemarka on the right. This is one of the most fertile areas in the country.

    Sandvika

    Neighbourhood

    The train may stop at Sandvika. Sandvika has had city status since 2003. The Crown Prince’s residence is at Skaugum. The site goes back to the Middle Ages. It was handed to Prince Olav in 1929, and today it is private property of the royal family, unlike the Royal Palace and OscarsHall, which is owned by the state.

    Oslo Tunnel

    Tunnel

    The last part of our journey is not very scenic: we have to make our way to the other end of Oslo city centre, and to do that we must go through the Oslo Tunnel. The Oslo tunnel is about 3.6km long and opened in 1980, the same time as the Oslo Central Station. Before this, Oslo had two stations: Oslo East and Oslo West. As you can imagine, it was not very practical. Today Oslo West is the Nobel Peace Centre, while Oslo East has been expanded into Oslo Central Station.

    Oslo

    City

    You have made it to Oslo! You can find my guide to Oslo by clicking the button below. 

    Oslo Travel Guide

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  • Geilo, Hallingdal, Oslo & the East, Stave Churches

    Seeing Double at Torpo Stave Church

    Seeing Double at Torpo Stave Church

    If you’re driving on the E7 between east and west Norway, Torpo Stave Church is one of the best roadside stops on the eastern side. The town of Torpo itself is a little sleepy and lacking in things to do, but the stave church is a true highlight. After all, it is one of the oldest stave churches in the country. It is the only preserved stave church in the traditional district of Hallingdal. It’s unique as the new church stands immediately next to it. It creates this intriguing juxtaposition between old and new church architecture in Norway.

    I have been to Torpo Stave Church a few times; I always make an effort to have my groups see it when we are driving on the E7. However, in September 2020 on my road-trip, I decided to make a quick stop there to take some photos. The church wasn’t open due to it being off-season. Still, I got some great photos of the outside and did a little research on the church.

    Here’s what you need to know about Torpo Stave Church for your visit.

    In this article...

    Geilo Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    One of the oldest stave churches in Norway

    Torpo Stave Church
    Visiting Torpo Stave Church

    An early photo of the two churches together // Thomhav, C. Christensen (1857-1937) // Riksantikvaren

    There is a little back and forth about when Torpo Stave Church was built. Some say it was constructed around 1160, others say it may be closer to the end of the 12th century. In any case, it’s certain that Torpo Stave Church was the first church in Hallingdal and is the only preserved church. It’s also believed there was an older church on this site before the stave church, furthering the importance of Torpo Stave Church.

    According to a rune inscription, a man named Torolf built the church. A person with the same name is listed as the builder for Ål Stave Church. Ål is the next town over if you’re driving towards Oslo. Its stave church was torn down. The plank with the rune inscription is in the Historical Museum in Oslo, but you will see other inscriptions on the church. If you take a guided tour, the staff will highlight it. At the time, Hallingdal (the valley) belonged to the diocese of Stavanger. There is a rumour that one of the bishops of Stavanger is buried under the church, but it is just a rumour.

    There is another stave church surviving from Hallingdal, Gol Stave Church (Gol is a major town on the E7). However, Gol Stave Church now stands at the open-air museum (Folke Museum) in Oslo. There used to be many more churches in the valley, but they were all demolished at one point or another.

    Torpo Stave Church
    Torpo Stave Church (My Photo)

    Changes from the Reformation onwards

    After the Reformation, when Norway went from being Catholic to Lutheran, all stave churches underwent huge changes. Common for all churches is the addition of pulpits and pews. Windows were added later on. All the windows on Torpo Stave Church are from the 17th century. In the 16th, 17th and 18th centuries the church was richly decorated. When the Preservation Society bought the church, they removed these decorations.

    From 1725 onwards, Torpo Stave Church had private ownership.

    Details of the tarring on the church exterior

    Preservation for Ancient Norwegian Monuments takes over

    In 1851, Norway introduced a new law that affected stave churches. The law required that all churches have enough seating for 30% of the village’s population. Towns tore down their stave churches, as they didn’t meet the requirement. After all, we only have 28 of the original 1,000 remaining. In 1875, Ål Municipality took over Torpo Stave Church with plans of renovating it to accommodate the new law. When the Preservation for Norwegian Ancient Monuments heard of this, they knew it would damage the church’s original appearance. So, they set out to buy it. They tore down the choir while financial negotiations were underway. In 1880, the Preservation purchased the church. They took out all the post-Reformation decorations and kept everything in the remaining church original.

    Gorgeous detail around the portal

    Similarities to other stave churches

    Today, only the nave (central part) of the church is remaining. In the nave, you’ll see the original 14 pillars holding up the saddle roof. Inside, it looks very similar to the torn-down stave church as well as the stave churches in Sogn, particularly Borgund and Kaupanger. It’s believed that Torpo improved the construction method of Urnes Stave Church and took elements from Borgund Stave Church.

    Photo credit: Nina Aldin Thune / kunsthistorie.com

    Richly painted decorations

    The choir, which was demolished shortly before the Preservation bought it, had rich paintings. Luckily at the time, the paintings were in the nave, saving them. The vault had richly decorated paintings depicting Christ, the Apostles, and the legend of St. Margaret, who the church is dedicated to. This vault is the most famous part of Torpo Stave Church. It is some of the oldest decorative paintwork in Norway.

    Torpo Stave Church (My Photo)

    Torpo Stave Church (My Photo)

    The exterior

    If you don’t want to pay for entrance to the church, or perhaps you arrive off-season as I did, you are still in for a treat. Dragons, vines and animal heads decorate the portals. A bell tower stood next to the stave church; this is common of many stave churches – bells were too heavy for the supporting beams. However, it is gone due to the new church. The small wooden building across from the church was a room for the church people; it was the only place with heating. Still today, Torpo Stave Church is without electricity and heating.

    The new church

    Torpo built a new church in 1880. It is in a Neo-Gothic style and seats 200. In the 1970s, parts of the stave church’s choir were found under the new church. The new church is still in use and is not part of the admission to Torpo Stave Church.

    Information sign out the front

    Visiting Torpo Stave Church

    Location & Parking

    The stave church is located in the village of Torpo, which is off the E7 between Bergen and Oslo. At this point, you’re roughly halfway between Geilo and Gol, which will be on all the yellow roadsigns indicating how far away the next town is. You get a glimpse of the stave church from the highway, but it’s best to turn off and visit it properly. There are brown tourist signs on the highway pointing in the right direction, so it’s hard to miss it.

    Considering the popularity of this church, there’s very little parking. There is a small parking lot across the street, but I am unsure how busy it will get in the summer months. Please note that there is a private home next to the parking lot; don’t park in their space! They have signs up saying “privat” or “private”.

    Opening Hours & Admission Fees

    Typically, the church is open every day from the beginning of June to the end of August from 10am to 6pm. There’s a sign out the front indicating its opening hours, and you can find up-to-date information here.

    There is an admission fee of 70 NOK to enter the church (up-to-date info can be found here).

    Bathroom facilities are at the church, but there is no food/drinks place. You can get food and drinks from the Joker supermarket down the road.

    Travel Suggestions

    If you are thinking of staying in the area, I’d recommend staying in Geilo. Gol is a little industrial, whereas in Geilo you’ll get all the charm of Norway’s oldest ski town. Torpo Stave Church is a 30-minute drive east of Geilo and a 15-minute drive west of Gol. However, the detour is quick enough that you can still drive all the way to Bergen or Oslo.

    When we did this drive, we had left the Numedal Valley, had lunch in Geilo (so many good options) and were then making our way to Fagernes, where we spent the night. The following day, we went on the Valdres National Tourist Road – there are more stave churches in the area!

    Visitor info for Geilo can be found at the bottom of my Numedal Valley page (click here).

    Tell me what you think!

    Have you visited Torpo Stave Church or do you have any questions for me? Let me know in the comments 🙂

    Geilo Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide