Oslo

  • Arendal, Drammen, European Highways, Grimstad, Kragerø, Kristiansand, Larvik, Oslo, Porsgrunn, Road-trips, Sandefjord, Scenic Drives, Tønsberg

    Drive it Yourself: Oslo to Kristiansand on the E18

    Drive it Yourself: Oslo to Kristiansand on the E18

    Drive from Oslo to Kristiansand on the E18! The E18 is a major highway running through Scandinavia. Starting over in St. Petersburg, the highway travels across Finland and via ferry to Stockholm, where it can then be followed all the way to Kristiansand. There used to be a ferry across to England, which is where the E18 continues over to Ireland, however the ferry is no longer operating. Still, it is an interesting highway to follow.

    This guide follows the stretch from Oslo to Kristiansand. Along the way, you pass a number of interesting historic port communities, and many are worth spending time in. The drive from Oslo to Kristiansand isn’t long – only 4 hours – but allow an extra day or two so you can enjoy all the stops along the way. 

    In this article...

    Download this Guide

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    View on Store
    Online Guide
    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Information about facilities along the way
    Downloadable Guide
    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the region & towns
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Facilities including supermarkets, toilets, petrol, hotels, cafes, restaurants with addresses.

    Oslo to Kristiansand on the E18

    Oslo

    This drive begins in Oslo, Norway’s capital city. You can find a detailed overview of Oslo via our dedicated travel guide page. 

    Oslo Travel Guide

    Oslo's Neighbourhoods

    Neighbourhoods

    As you drive out of Oslo you will pass the affluent neighbourhoods of Sandvika and Asker. 

    Lier Municipality

    Lier municipality is known for its agriculture, and is regularly nicknamed the strawberry municipality, or the apple and vegetable municipality. It has also been nicknamed ‘the green lung between Oslo and Drammen’. 

    Lierskogen

    Village

    This is the easternmost part of the Lier municipality. Lierskogen is an active agricultural village with the production of milk, meat and sheep farming. 

    Drammen Municipality

    Drammen municipality is the first municipality you’ll pass through. It is named after Drammen, the city and centre of the municipality.

    Drammen is located where the Drammen River flows into the fjord. The river has been important for timber trade for hundreds of years, and thanks to this Drammen developed into one of Eastern Norway’s most important maritime and trading towns. 

    During the Viking Age, the area was called Dramm, a Norse word that can mean ‘waves’. In the Norse sagas, it is written that Olav the Holy (St. Olav) hid from Knut the Mighty in the Dramm fjord. Oslo’s Saint Hallvard is also from Drammen – he was killed and sunk in the Drammensfjord in 1043. 

    Drammen

    Drammen is today the fifth largest city in Norway, with a population of 111,000. It is also one of the fasted growing urban regions in the country. Despite this rapid modern growth, Drammen does have some interesting places to visit, as well as an interesting history. Read about Drammen on our dedicated travel guide page. 

    Drammen Travel Guide

    Vestfold og Telemark County

    You now cross into Vestfold and Telemark County. The two used to be two individual counties, but in 2020 they were merged under a government restructure. However, they are planning to separate again. So, you are technically just in Vestfold County!

    Holmestrand Municipality

    The area around Holmestrand has long been connected to timber trade and the construction of sailing ships. The Dutch first came to the area to trade timber in 1550, and Holmestrand grew quickly. You can visit the historic pier in the town centre. 

    Today Holmestrand is regarded as a popular holiday destination due to its proximity to some nice beaches. The first spa was built here in 1840. 

    Holmestrand town has a population of 8,000 people. 

    Detour: Tønsberg

    Tønsberg is a short detour off the E18 but is well worth it – it is regarded as Norway’s oldest town and was founded before the year 871. It was an important centre during the Viking Age. Some sites survive from old times, and there’s a great museum in town. 

    Tønsberg Travel Guide

    Sandefjord Municipality

    Sandefjord is known for its rich Viking history and is where one of the Viking ships at the Viking Ship Museum in Oslo were found – the Gokstad Ship. However, Sandefjord also developed as an important whaling centre and now has Europe’s only museum dedicated to whaling. 

    Today Sandefjord municipality is a popular summer destination for Norwegians and there are ferries linking the municipality to Germany and Denmark. 

    Sandefjord

    Sandefjord is worth spending some time in – the museums are wonderful and the town itself is charming. Learn about Sandefjord via our dedicated travel guide below. 

    Sandefjord Travel Guide

    Larvik Municipality

    Larvik municipality has a population of around 48,000 and like the other communities we have passed through, is today known as a popular summer spot for Norwegians.

    Larvik does have an interesting history, too. Remains from the Stone Age have been found here and during the Roman Iron Age, ancient peoples erected a stone monument resembling a ship at Istrehågen, and this is today regarded as one of Norway’s greatest remains from prehistoric times. 

    Larvik was a Danish county until 1817. The rest of Norway had come under Danish rule, and four local businessmen bought the county in 1817, making it part of Norway. 

    The highway passes by the town of Larvik. 

    Porsgrunn Municipality

    Porsgrunn was first mentioned in historic documents in 1576, but has been a place long before then. The area became an important harbour town in the late 16th century, and Porsgrunn was the home of some of Norway’s most influential families. For a while, Porsgrunn was considered the cultural centre of Norway.

    The processing industry is the biggest industry in the municipality, and Yara – one of the world’s largest mineral fertiliser factories – is located here. 

    Porsgrunn

    Porsgrunn is a town with a population of 35,000 and is the outlet of the Telemark Canal, so makes for a nice place to visit. 

    Porsgrunn Travel Guide

    Kragerø

    Village

    Kragerø is a worthwhile detour  – it was referred to as ‘the pearl among coastal towns’ by Edvard Grieg, after all. At one point, it was one of Norway’s largest shipping towns. The village today is spread over both sides of the Bysundet strait and is a charming place to stop at. 

    Agder County

    Agder country stretches across the southern part of Norway. It is also commonly referred to as Sørlandet, or “the South”. 

    Agder was one of the petty kingdoms during the Viking Age, and the place is mentioned in teh Old Norse sagas. 

    Gjerstad Municipality

    The municipality of Gjerstad has been inhabited since the Stone Age, and the place was important during the Viking Age. Agriculture has been important here for centuries, and timber also provided a good income for many people.

    Risør Municipality

    Risør municipality is primarily a tourist municipality thanks to the lakes, hills and coastline. 

    In the first week of August, there is a wooden boat festival and the municipality has a growing reputation as the regional capital of arts and crafts. 

    The village of Risør has existed for a long time, and the Dutch began coming in the 16th century to trade timber. The village has a Baroque Church from 1647. 

    Sadly the whole town was destroyed by fire in 1861 and has been completely reconstructed since then. 

    You do not pass through Risør; rather, it is a short detour off the E18 highway. 

    After passing through the village of Akland, you will go through the Sørlands Portal – a tunnel marking the beginning of Southern Norway. 

    Tvedestrand Municipality

    Tvedestrand municipality is a historic municipality with the centre being the village of Tvedestrand. One of the oldest buildings in the municipality is Holt Church, which dates from the 12th century and has an ancient baptismal font.

    Tvedestrand

    Village

    Tvedestrand town is only a short detour off the E18 and is worth visiting. The town centre has white wooden houses with irregular streets built on steep hills around the harbour, making it a beautiful village. Around 2,000 buildings are more than 100 years old. It is a popular summer place for Norwegians because of the numerous islands and nice scenery. There are around 1,700 summer cottages here.

    Arendal Municipality

    Arendal municipality is a sizeable municipality with 45,000 people living here. It was mentioned for the first time as an important port in documents from 1528. 

    Arendal

    Arendal is commonly referred to as the ‘Venice of the North’ as the historic town is built on seven islets. Visit our dedicated travel guide page below. 

    Arendal Travel Guide

    Skaggerak Coast

    Coast

    Skagerakk is the strait that runs between the Jutland peninsula of Denmark and the southeast coast of Norway. It is one of the busiest shipping routes in the world because it is the passage from the North Sea to the Baltic Sea. It was historically the only entrance to the Baltic Sea, but since 1784 there has been the Eider Canal.

    Grimstad Municipality

    Grimstad municipality is centred around the coastal village of Grimstad, which has a harbour, church and museum dedicated to Henrik Ibsen. After all, Ibsen worked as an apprentice in the pharmacy before leaving the town in 1850. Ibsen’s knowledge of the people and surroundings of Grimstad can be seen in the poem Terje Vigen.

    Grimstad has been known for a long time, but it was recognised as a harbour town in 1622. By 1747, Grimstad had a sizeable sailing community and was a known place for smugglers.

    Grimstad

    Grimstad is a historic harbour town and a nice place to visit on your road-trip. Visit our dedicated road-trip page below. 

    Grimstad Travel Guide

    Lillesand Municipality

    Lillesand municipality is centred around the town of Lillesand. It is one of the more modern ports along the Skaggerak coast as it was established in 1821. However, at the time it had nine shipyards. The end of sailing ships caused huge economic difficulties for the municipality as sailing ships were inexpensive due to the use of timber, whereas steamships required steel that was expensive. Many people from Lillesand ended up emigrating to the United States.

    In Lillesand you’ll find the National Park Skjærgårdsparken, which is spread out across islands, skerries and rocks. There’s also a Maritime Museum about the history of the municipality.

    Kristiansand Municipality

    Well, Kristiansand has one of the more impressive coat-of-arms I’ve seen!

    Kristiansand was established in 1641 and is named after the Danish-Norwegian King Christian IV (who also renamed Oslo after himself to Kristiania). The city is strategically located on the Skaggerak coast and used to be an important military base as all traffic had to pass here in and out of the Baltic Sea.

    Kristiansand

    You have made it to Kristiansand, the end of the drive on the E18. Kristiansand is an interesting historic city, so be sure to head over to our dedicated travel guide page to learn more. 

    Kristiansand Travel Guide

    Write any questions or comments you have in the section below!

  • History, Oslo, Walking Guides

    Oslo’s Historic City Centre: The Ruins of Gamle Oslo

    Walking around Gamle Oslo

    One of my favourite places to walk in Oslo is around the neighbourhood of Gamle Oslo. Located between the modern ‘Barcode’ district and the scenic Ekeberg Sculpture Park, Gamle Oslo is a mixed bag of a neighbourhood. It has scattered apartment buildings, small shops and cafes, is close to the multicultural Grønland neighbourhood (see my separate walk on that here) and is currently a bit of a construction site thanks to the railway and tram lines going through it.

    If you are looking for somewhere a little more ‘off the beaten path’, I can’t recommend Gamle Oslo enough. The ruins are interesting to walk around, and it makes for a nice walk away from the hustle and bustle of the city centre.

    Here’s my guide to the various remains at Gamle Oslo.

    In this article...

    Oslo Travel Guide

    You can find a detailed overview of Oslo, including practical, historic and travel information on our dedicated travel guide page. 

    Oslo Travel Guide

    Download this Guide

    All of our guides can be downloaded via our online store. 

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

    Coming soon.

    View on Store

    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
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    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Information about facilities along the way

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the region & towns
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Facilities including supermarkets, toilets, petrol, hotels, cafes, restaurants with addresses.

    Oslo's History (A Brief Overview)

    If you are looking for a detailed overview of Oslo’s city history, I would recommend reading my separate article (click here). But, in the context of Gamle Oslo, here is a short overview.

    Basically, Gamle Oslo is the place where the first settlement of Oslo was. According to the Icelandic Sagas, Oslo was founded by King Harald Hardråde around the year 1050 because of the good supplies and close proximity to the big rival, Denmark. However, the settlement has been excavated and remains back to the 9th century have been found. Oslo was likely an urban centre by the end of the Viking Age.

    Oslo was an important port and marketplace. It was also the centre of power and religion for Eastern Norway and stood as a base for a number of Norwegian Kings. Because of this, King Håkon V moved the capital from Bergen to Oslo in 1314, building Akershus Fortress and initiating a number of important construction projects in Oslo town centre, such as the stone cathedrals (they were previously wooden), the new royal court, and the bishop’s residence. Dominican and Franciscan monasteries were constructed in the town.

    Oslo’s decline began around the time of the Black Death and subsequent Kalmar Union. By the time of the Reformation, the city was in disrepair. The Reformation also broke the independence of the Norwegian Church and its position as a factor of economic power, and it strengthened Denmark’s control over Norway. Some buildings in Oslo remained important, such as Akershus Fortress, but the town was less so.

    The end of Oslo’s old town was in 1624, when a large fire swept through the town. It was common for medieval towns to have fire; after all, they were dense wooden settlements and people depended on fire for cooking, heating and lighting. It is believed that Oslo had 18 city fires between 1080 and 1567, and the city was rebuilt just as many times on the same site, where the cellars and foundations remained in tact. The fire of 1624 destroyed most of the residential buildings. The contents of the Hallvard Cathedral were destroyed, though the stone walls remained. Oslo Hospital. Oslo’s Bishop’s Residence and the Oslo Cathedral School all survived the fire.

    The Danish King Christian IV decided that rather than rebuilding the city, it should be moved west closer to Akershus Fortress. Residents were given plots of land for free and the new buildings were to be constructed of stone (they ended up being constructed in wood, leading to more fires). The new city was to be called Christiania, after the King. I have a self-guided walk for Christian IV’s Oslo, which you can read by clicking here.

    What happened to the old town? Not much. Parts of it were converted to agricultural land for farmers, while others sat in ruins for over one hundred years. The interest in the old town only came in the late 19th/early 20th centuries, when the first excavations were carried out. 

    Today much of the area has been heritage-protected and converted into park area, while some of the ruins remain under the modern roads and apartments. There is work now on restoring and preserving more of the ruins, but it’s still an ongoing conversation in Oslo. 

    Defining Gamle Oslo

    Today the ruins are located in the neighbourhood Gamle Oslo and are roughly bound by Hovinbekken in the north, the original course of the Alna River in the south and east, and the waterfront at the Medieval Park in the west. The Franciscan monastery (partly covered by Gamlebyen church and Oslo Hospital) just east of Alna is also considered part of the medieval town.

    Sites Around Gamle Oslo

    The Medieval Park

    Middelalderparken

    The walk begins at the Medieval Park, which is located just across from the Barcode modern construction buildings. The park opened in 2000 after a large excavation project, and the waterfront was recreated to represent where the original waterfront of Oslo would’ve been. 

    Today development in the area is prohibited due to ruins and cultural layers above and below the ground.

    The Alna River had its outlet where the southern side of the park is located today. In connection with the construction of the Follobanen, which opened in December 2022, the river will again be diverted here.

    It is possible to walk along the waterfront. There are two ruins here of particular interest. 

    Mariakirken

    St. Mary's Church

    Like almost all the churches at Gamle Oslo, St. Mary’s Church was probably first built as a small wooden church around the 11th century. Also like the other churches, it was rebuilt as a stone church. 

    St. Mary’s was expanded two more times: in the 13th century with the construction of a Gothic choir and then again int he 14th century with brick extensions. After its final renovation, it was believed to have been one of the most magnificent churches in Norway.

    The church had an important role in the function of Norway’s national government up until the Reformation. The church was the chancellor for the Kingdom of Norway and keeper of the great seal. The chancellor was the only permanent institution in the national government with a seat in Norway and functioned as state administration in medieval Norway. The clergy of St. Mary’s had a high rank in the worldly aristocracy from 1300. 

    Additionally, some of the Norwegian Royals were buried here, such as King Håkon V (who moved the capital to Oslo) and Queen Eufemia. This was also the church where they married. 

    The church was set on fire by the Swedes in connection with an attack in 1523, and by the time of the Reformation the church was so dilapidated that it could not be repaired. It was demolished in 1542 and the land was used for agriculture.

    Excavations of the church were carried out in 1867, 1935 and 1961. 

    Kongsgården

    Royal Residence of Oslo

    Hidden behind the brick building are the remains of the Oslo Royal Residence. Archaeological excavations show that the buildings were constructed around the time of King Harald Hardråde, who founded Oslo. It was likely a wooden building but was converted to a stone one under King Håkon V. 

    Remains of a circular moat have been interpreted as a type of fortification similar to ones found in France and the British Isles. German and English coins dated from between 1040 and 1060 were found in the sandy banks of the moat. 

    Kongsgården was used until the Late Middle Ages but fell into disrepair as Akershus Fortress became the main administrative centre and royal residence. 

    Make your way back up to the main road after this. The rest of the ruins are located within close proximity of Oslo Torg. 

    Saxegården

    Manor House

    Tucked away behind the apartment buildings is a small wooden house. This is Saxegården, a manor house that can be traced back to the medieval times. Beneath half the house is a vaulted stone cellar from the late Middle Ages. The property is one of the few medieval manor houses in Oslo where the location can be determined with 100% certainty. it is named after the Saxe family, a Norwegian noble family. The current wooden building is from around the year 1800. 

    Clemenskirken

    Clements Church

    Clemens Church is likely one of the first churches to be constructed in Oslo as it is believed that Oslo’s first urban structure began around where the church stood. The oldest avenue in Oslo was called Clemensallmenningen. It is believed that the Danish King Harald Bluetooth (yes, that Bluetooth) constructed the church. He was Denmark’s first real King and had Oslo as a base for missionary and military advances in Norway. 

    Several Scandinavian churches were dedicated to the patron saint of seafarers, St. Clemens. The original church was constructed in wood, but was replaced as a stone building around the year 1100.

    The layout of the church is unique: it is one of the very few churches in Norway with a two nave ground plan. Remains of what is one of Norway’s oldest cemeteries have been found under and around the church, with the oldest graves being from around 980 AD. This suggests that there was a well-established Christian community around the year 1000. 

    The church went out of use after the Reformation and was left in ruins. 

    Bispegata

    Street

    This is where the medieval avenue called Bispeallmenningen ran. During excavations in 1954, the original street was found in multiple layers between 1.5 metres and 4 metres below the current surface, and three wooden bridges were found. 

    Oslo Ladegård

    Oslo Bishop's Residence

    During the Middle Ages, Oslo Ladegård was the residence of the bishop. It was one of the city’s most important political centres of gravity until the Reformation removed power from the Church. 

    The current house is from 1725 but is built on the remains of a manor house from earlier times. This is where King James of Scotland (or James I of England) and Princess Anna were married in 1589. In the basement are remains of the bishop’s residence from the 13th century. 

    Oslo Torg

    Oslo Square

    The large road junction is where the site of Oslo Torg stood. It was the medieval city’s Roman Forum and meeting place for the King and his men. It is where Oslo’s earliest court stood. 

    It is believed that Oslo Torg was triangular, similar to the medieval square in Lund’s old town in Sweden. 

    The main function of the square was as a market. Goods from the port would be brought up here. Additionally, farmer’s from around Oslo would come here to sell their goods. Food was primarily traded, such as grain, flour, butter, cheese, vegetables, fish, and products from domestic animals. There was also toilet paper (which back then was moss), cotton wool, wooden tools, and other items for the home. Foreign retailers also came here, such as the Hanseatic League. 

    Oslo Torg was also the site of Norway’s only winter market, which was held every year at Lent. 

    The position of the market began to disappear in the 18th century as other roads were being constructed. In the 1960s, a six-lane motorway was built over the square, and now the entire square and parts of the bishops castle are underneath the motorway. 

    Minneparken

    Memorial Park

    Now we’ll visit Minneparken, which is where a number of ruins from Oslo are located. 

    Hallvardskatedralen

    St. Hallvard Cathedral

    It is believed that King Sigurd Jorsdalfare began construction of the cathedral in the early 12th century. The cathedral is named after Oslo’s patron saint Hallvard, who was shot when he tried to save an innocent, pregnant woman accused of theft. The body of St. Hallvard was moved from its original location at Lier and enshrined in a silver casket that was placed on the high altar. 

    The most important parts of the church were completed in 1130, when King Sigurd was buried in the south wall of the choir. 

    Hallvard Cathedral was Eastern Norway’s religious centre for over 500 years. It was the coronation church, royal wedding church, royal burial chapel, and one of Scandinavia’s most visited pilgrimage destinations. 

    The style of the cathedral was unique. The builders took inspiration from the south and east of Europe, and it’s believed the present-day Gamle Aker Church was modelled after Hallvard Cathedral. 

    After the fire of 1624, Hallvard Cathedral was still standing and must’ve been in good condition as it remained as the main church for Eastern Norway until 1639, when the Holy Trinity Church in the new part of Oslo was completed. After this, Hallvard Cathedral fell into disrepair and in 1696 was demolished. It now became a quarry for Akershus Fortress, while some of the stone was used in the construction of Oslo Cathedral. One of the stones from Hallvard Cathedral can be seen on the corner of the tower of Oslo Cathedral today. Additionally, two of Oslo Cathedral’s four bells are from Hallvard Cathedral. Some items from the cathedral have been preserved in museums. For example, in the University of Oslo’s Antiquity Collection there is an altar cross from the 13th century. 

    In the 1770s, the gravestones (which dated from 1130 to 1660) were removed as filling material and road surface.

    The first excavation took place in 1835. At the beginning of the 1920s, the whole ruin came to light. However, in the 1960s part of the cathedral was covered by concrete to allow for the expansion of Bispegata. 

    Olavsklosteret

    St. Olav Monastery

    Located next to the ruins of the Hallvard Cathedral is the Olav Monastery. The monastery was built in 1240 next to the Olav Church. They had a herb garden north of the monastery and a pond, both of which were restored in 1929. After the Reformation, the monastery was converted to a bishop’s residence.

    The current Oslo bishopric is located in the building built on the eastern ruins. The western ruins were only uncovered in the 1950s. 

    Korskirken

    Cross Church

    The last ruins in Minneparken are of Korskirken, a small parish church located on the northern boundary of Oslo. It is not known when the church was built and it is not mentioned in written documents about a famous battle in Oslo in 1240. However, in 1989 a rune stick was found dating to the first half of the 13th century, and it mentions Korskirken. 

    A Little Further Away...

    If you want to explore more of Old Oslo, there are more remains scattered around the neighbourhood. Here they are. 

    Nonneseter Klosteret

    Nonneseter Monastery

    Nonneseter Monastery was constructed around 1150 and was a Benedictine convent for nuns dedicated to the Holy Mary. The monastery was mentioned for the first time in 1161. Snorre Sturlason refers to the monastery in Håkon Herdebrei’s saga when he describes the Battle of Ekeberg.

    Nonnester Monastery was one of the largest landowners in Norway, owning 272 farms in Eastern Norway. The monastery existed for some time after the Reformation, but it was confiscated in 1547 and given to Akershus Fortress. It eventually fell into disrepair and was demolished in 1616.

    The remains were discovered when the building at Scheiwgaards gate 50 was built in 1887.

    Today the remains of the monastery can be found under the ground beneath the properties at Schweigaards gate 55 and Grønlandsleiret 73.

    Oslo Hospital

    This is the site of Norway’s oldest hospital. However, it didn’t start out as a hospital. This site was originally a Franciscan monastery that was established here under King Håkon V. 

    After the Reformation, the monastery was handed over to the city and turned into a hospital. The hospital operation was based on the work of the Franciscans: the Gray Friars carried out targeted care work for lepers and others of the city’s weakest. It eventually became a psychiatric hospital and remained as such until 2018, when it closed. 

    The buildings burned in 1567, and the monastery church remained standing until 1794. It was then replaced by the Gamlebyen church, which was built partly on top of the ruins of the old church. 

    The oldest building on the property is the Gråsteinbygningen (Grey Stone Building), which was erected in 1737 using several types of stone from Ekebrg, including limestone, clay, slate and gneiss. 

    Gamlebygen Church is a privately owned church located on the property. The first church was built here at the end of the 13th century and was one of the first buildings in Oslo to be built of brick. After the Reformation, the church was also converted into a hospital. The church was destroyed by Swedes in 1567 and has since been rebuilt many times. The last time it was rebuilt was in 1939. 

    Galgeberg

    Gallows Hill

    Just north of Gamle Oslo is the neighbourhood Galgeberg. This name gives away what it used to be – Gallows Hill. In the Middle Ages, the area was a place for public executions and the gallows stood here. 

    The road the gallows stood on was part of the most important road network out of Oslo towards the north. 

    The gallows stood in a courtyard where the residential complex Galgeberg 3 is. The flagpole marks the specific spot. 

    Close by is a small street called Justiskroken, which is believed to have been where the executioner lived. A small wooden house stands here and is from the middle of the 18th century.

    You can read about the last execution of Galgeberg here: https://www.dagsavisen.no/oslo/byhistorie/2021/10/08/da-det-siste-hodet-rullet-pa-galgeberg/

    Oslo Travel Guide

    You can find a detailed overview of Oslo, including practical, historic and travel information on our dedicated travel guide page. 

    Oslo Travel Guide
  • Aurland, Bergen, European Highways, Fagernes, Flåm, Hønefoss, Lærdal, Norway, Oslo, Road-trips, Vang, Voss

    Drive it Yourself: Oslo to Bergen on the E16

    Drive it Yourself: Oslo to Bergen on the E16

    The E16 between Oslo and Bergen follows the historic road between east and west Norway that has existed for thousands of years. Over the centuries the road has gradually been modernised, but traces of the past remain.

    While the E16 is the longer way between the two cities, the road is lined with historic monuments, including stave churches, runestones, and lodgings. It makes for a great, scenic road-trip!

    Here’s our guide to the E16 highway. 

    In this article...

    Download this Guide

    All of our guides can be downloaded via our online store. 

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

    View on Store

    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
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    • Information about facilities along the way

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the region & towns
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Facilities including supermarkets, toilets, petrol, hotels, cafes, restaurants with addresses.

    The Drive: Oslo to Bergen on the E16

    This drive begins in Oslo. 

    Oslo Travel Guide

    Read more about Oslo, Norway’s capital, on our dedicated travel guide page. Click the button below. 

    Oslo Travel Guide

    Sandvika

    Neighbourhood

    The first neighbourhood you drive through is called Sandvika. While it is technically part of Oslo city, it is in many ways regarded as its own community. The population is approximately 130,000.

    Claude Monet visited the city in 1895. During his visit, he painted the city. Perhaps the most famous work from this visit is “Sandviken Village in Snow”, which shows the Løkka Bridge in the foreground with the hill Kolsås in the background. The bridge still stands today.

    The area of Sandvika has existed since for thousands of years. The Sandvik grounds were rich fishing grounds that provided an important supplement to the farms in Sandvika.

    Sandvika is home to Scandinavia’s largest super mall – the Sandvika Storsenter – with 190 stores and a total area of 60,000 square metres or 650,000 square feet.

    Hole Municipality

    The municipality of Hole is situated around the Tyrifjord, where the soil is fertile and suited to growing fruit, berries, and other agricultural products. The coat-of-arms depicts the four Norwegian Kings who lived in the municipality in the 9th to 11th centuries. The most famous of the four is St. Olav (Olav Haraldsson), though Harald Hårdrade is a close second for fame – he was the one credited with ending the Viking Age at the Battle of Stamford Bridge in 1066. The other three kings are Halvdan Svarte (820-860), Sigurd Syr (-1018), and Harald Hardråde (1015-1066). Harald Hardråde is the king who lost at the Battle of Stamford Bridge in 1066, which is considered to be the event when the Viking Age ended.

    Hole is important in Norwegian history. Archaeological finds from the Roman and Migration periods are numerous, and Hole is known as one of the traditional landscapes from the Viking Age and plays a prominent role in the Norse sagas.

    Stein Church Ruins (Stein Kirkeruin) are located at Steinsfjorden. The church was constructed in the latter half of the 1100s. By the second half of the 1500s, the chapel was no longer in use. There are some historic churches in the area: Bønsnes Church is a medieval church from 1100 and Hole Church is probably from 1200.

    Utøya

    Memorial

    As you drive along the Tyrifjord, down on your left is the island Utøya. This was the site of the terrorist attack that happened in Norway in 2011. It is possible to take a detour down to the memorial site. On GPS it is marked as “Minnesmerke Utøya”.

    Tyrifjord

    Lake

    The Tyrifjord is a lake (not a fjord like the name suggests). It is the fifth largest large in Norway with an area of 139km2 and a maximum depth of 295m. It is one of Norway’s most species-rich lakes. The lake used to be part of the sea, but as the land has risen it has become landlocked. In the fjord, free fishing without a licence is accepted based on tradition and custom. Brown trout is caught in the lake, though crayfish is also popular. 

    Sundvollen

    Village

    Sundvollen is a village located along the eastern part of the Tyrifjord. The name comes from the name of a farm that used to be here. Sundvollen is most noted for its hotels. Sundvolden Hotel is one of Norway’s oldest hotels – it was mentioned in written sources dating from 1648. Kleivstua Hotel was a coaching inn in 1780 which catered to travellers going between Christiania (Oslo) and Ringerike. It is on the Old Royal Bergen Road, the historic road between Oslo and Hadeland. The road is also part of the Old Pilgrims Route from Oslo to Trondheim. Understandably, there were many travellers coming through here. They would stop at one of the hotels for food, accommodations, and to give their horses a rest. Unfortunately both of the hotels have been renovated extensively, so there’s no trace of the original lodgings. 

    Petroglyphs from the Bronze Age have been found approximately 100m from the E16 and show ship figures, circuit figures and bowl pits. 

    In Sundvollen you can hike to “Kongens Utsikt”, a scenic viewpoint overlooking the Tyrifjord. 

    Norderhov Church

    Historic Church

    Norderhov Church is a medieval church that was built in 1170. The church is built in local sandstone and limestone in a Romanesque style of architecture. The church was built on a former pagan court for the god Njord, and that’s where the name Norderhob comes from. The church was historically the most important church in Ringerike. 

    Across the road from the church is Norderhov’s old rectory, which is now the Ringerike Museum. The museum has runestones and its collection of the private belongings of Jørgen Engebretsen Moe, a Norwegian author most famous for ‘Norske Folkeeventyr”, a collection of Nowegian folk tales which he edited in collaboration with Peter Christen Asbjørnsen. 

    The church and vicarage are known for their close association with the vicar’s wife Anna Colbjørnsdatter (1667-1736), who legend says tricked the Swedes by getting the Colonel drunk. This gave the far smaller Norwegian-Danish force an opportunity to inflict a defeat on the Swedes. This was in connection with the Battle of Norderhov in 1716. She then received heroine status and is one of the very few female heroes in Norwegian history. She was married to historian and parish priest Jonas Ramus and they are in the crypt under the church. Her portrait can be seen inside the church. The pulpit is from 1582 and is considered one of Norway’s oldest preserved pulpits. 

    Hønefoss Travel Guide

    You don’t drive through Hønefoss on the E16; it is approximately a five-minute drive into the town. However, this is the first major town that you pass on the drive, so it can be a useful rest stop. 

    Hønefoss is regarded as the centre of Ringerike. The town is located by a waterfall and is founded on the sawmill business that arose from the waterfall in the 17th century. Hønefoss is home to several factories and other industry, with Norske Skog Follum, a timber company, having its headquarters here. Dating from 1873, Norske Skog Follum was one of the largest producers of newsprint in Europe until it closed in 2012. 

    HØNEFOSS Travel Guide

    Follum

    Village

    Follum is a small village after Hønefoss on the western side of the Ådal River. It is on the old road that led to the Ådal Valley. The name comes from the oldest farm in the area. 

    Ådal Valley

    Valley

    You are now driving through the Ådal Valley. 

    The first church built in Ådal was a stave church built during the 15th century. It is mentioned in the Diplomatarium Norvegicum in 1462. The church was eventually removed to make way for a larger, more modern church. 

    Viker Church is located on the western shore of the Sperillen Lake and is from 1702. The pulpit, altar and crucifers from the old stave church are inside Viker Church. 

    Valdres Natur og Kulturpark

    Preserve

    You are now entering the traditional district of Valdres, which is situated between the Gudbrandsdal and Hallingdal valleys. The river Begna runs through the municipality. 

    The traditional Valdres region is located approximately halfway between Oslo and Bergen. The valley has the Jotunheimen mountains to the west and the north. Historically, Valdres has been an agricultural economy, but tourism is becoming more important – especially for skiing. 

    Sør-Aurdal Municipality

    The name comes from the valley in which it is located. The coat-of-arms represents a medieval reliquary that is based on the one found at Hedal Stave Church. It has two dragons heads in the design since Sør-Aurdal is one of only two municipalities in Norway that have two stave churches that are still in use. The colour blue represents the two river systems that have historically been important for the logging industry and sawmills. 

    Olav Haraldsson, later St. Olav, travelled through Valdres in 1023 and visited Reinli. At the time, there was a pagan temple at the same location where the stave church stands. 

    One of the highlights of the municipality is Hedalen Stave Church was built in 1160 but rebuilt in 1699. An old legend says that the valley was abandoned during the Black Death and the church was discovered by a bear hunter. A hide is hanging in the church, although there is only a small part of it left as visitors have cut away pieces over the years. We will pass the turnoff for it a little later. 

    Bagn
    Village

    Bagn is the administrative centre of Sør-Aurdal. This area saw extensive fighting during World War II as advancing German forces were stopped in Bagn. The battles in the valley were extensive. 

    In Bagn you can find the Bagn Bygdesamling, a small museum that includes farmhouses, a sawmill, a flour mill, and other buildings. The museum is on a preserved farm. Next to Bagn Church is an intact shop from 1881, which may have been the largest business in Valdres. The shop is open during the summer holidays and before Christmas. 

    Bagn Church is the main church in the valley and seats 350 people. The earliest church in the area was mentioned in 1327, but the church was not new that year. The first church was likely a wooden stave church from the 13th century. The old church was closed in 1683 and for some time the locals had to use Reinli Stave Church. The church that we see today is the second church and dates to 1736. 

    Nord-Aurdal Municipality

    The coat-of-arms for Nord-Aurdal depicts three blue flowers called ‘Snow Gentian’. The flowers are locally known as ‘the blue eyes of Christ’ and grow all over Norway but grow abundantly in this area. They represent the three main settlements of the municipality: Aurdal, Fagernes, and Leira. This is a fairly mountainous municipality. The highest point is 1,325m (4,347ft) high and about 50% of the land is above 900m (3000ft).

    Aurdal
    Village

    Aurdal is a small village with a population of around 647. The village is known for its winter sports activities and is in Valdres’ Alpine Centre. There are several places to stay and eat. There used to be a railway here – the Valdresbanen – but it stopped in 1888. 

    Just after Aurdal is the Noraker Gård. This farm is currently being run by the 12th century. Rakfisk is a highly desirable food from this farm, and in 2022 they won the expert jury award at the Norwegian Rakfisk Festival. In 2006, Rakfisk from Valdres was approved as a protected geographical indication. This means that only fish hatched, reared, and processed in Valdres can be sold under the Rakfisk fra Valdres brand. 

    They have a farm shop that also sells trout, mustard, beer, moose, goat, and art. 

    Rakfisk is a dish made from trout or char where it is salted and autolyzed for two or three months. It is then eaten without cooking and has a strong smell and pungen salty flavour. After the fish is gutted and rinsed, it is placed in a bucket and salt. It is then placed under pressure with a lid that fits down into the bucket and a weight on top. A brine is formed as the salt draws moisture from the fish. The rakfisk bucket is stored at under 5 degreesC for one to three months. The finished product doesn’t need cooking. 

    Fagernes

    Fagernes is a major hub along the E16.

    The word ‘Fagernes’ is a combination of ‘fager’ (beautiful) and ‘nes’ (headland). The town was established in 1857, when the first trading operations started. The first hotel started operations in 1875, and from 1906 there was a train line (it has since closed). 

    If you are travelling in November, you may be in town for the Norwegian Rakfisk Festival, which takes place in the first week of the month. 

    In Fagernes is the Valdres Folkmuseum, a well-known museum that shows the culture of the Valdres region. It is both an indoor and outdoor museum. 

    Fagernes Travel Guide

    Ulnes Church

    Historic Church

    Ulnes Church is a beautiful church that you’ll pass shortly after leaving Fagernes. The earliest records of the church go back to 1307, but it was not new that year. Estimates say that the church was built around the year 1265 as its architecture reflects the transition between Romanesque and Gothic architecture. 

    In 1675, there were plans to replace it with a new wooden church as it was decaying, but thankfully that didn’t happen. Around 1720, the church was put out of use. It was described in 1733 by a bishop as “a pile of stones” with only the choir being suitable to keep. The church was restored in 1737, with the nave being demolished and rebuilt. The interior was also refurbished. 

    Vestre Slidre Municipality

    The next municipality is Vestre Slidre. The municipality is partly named after the historic Slidre Church, which you’ll see soon. The coat-of-arms are based on a heraldic decoration found in the Slidredomen church that dates to 1170. The design was originally part of a seal that belonged to a medieval nobleman in the area. The meaning of the design is unknown. 

    Vestre Slidre is mentioned in the Old Norse sagas. Harald Fairhair, who became the first King of Norway (872-930), did some conquests over petty kingdoms. One of the encounters that led to the overall conquest was with Skallagrim Kveldulvssøn in Vestre Slidre. Also, in 1023, King Olav Haraldsson came to the area to Christianise the people. The locals were caught unaware, and Olav took all their boats. They would only get them back if they accepted Christianity, which they did. 

    Lastly, in 2000 Sami gamme huts (a simple form of a hut) were found in the municipality. This is the southernmost discovery of Sami settlements.

    Slidre

    Village

    Slidre is the next village on the E16. It has a population of around 337. 

    In Slidre you can see the Vestre Slidre Church (Slidredomen), a historic stone church from around 1170. The church is built in the Romanesque style of architecture and the stone walls are approximately 160cm (63 inches) thick. 

    The church is unique in that it doesn’t have a west portal. Instead, the main entrance is from the south.

    The furniture is from the 18th century, while there are frescoes from the 15th century. The choir has a painted wooden vault from the 14th century, which depicts Jesus Christ in the mandorla centrally in the middle. On the north wall, a medieval coat-of-arms has been uncovered and is used as Vestre Slidre’s coat-of-arms. 

    The area here is very old. Above the village of Slidre is an ancient burial ground called the ‘Gardberg Site’. Here you can see the Einangsteinen runestone. It is believed to be from the 4th century and is considered the oldest runestone in the Nordics that is standing in its original place. The name Einang comes from a nearby farm. 

    Lomen Stave Church

    Lomen Stave Church is from around the year 1192. The church is a pillar stave church, meaning the main room has four supporting stave beams. The style and decoration of the church is part of the “Valdres-Sogn” stave churches. This groups many of the churches from Valdres Valley and around the Sognefjord that have the same features. Considering the old King’s Road used to run through the valley to Sogn, they likely shared design tips.

    Like all stave churches, Lomen Stave Chuch has fallen victim to modernisation and renovation. The choir is from a major renovation in the 1750s. During this time, the walls were also expanded to make the main room larger.

    During the last refurbishment, archaeological excavations uncovered 71 artefacts, including jewellery and coins. The oldest coin found here is from King Sverre’s time, 1177-1202.

    Today the church, neighbouring bell tower and cemetery are under protection. Many original features of the church remain, despite major renovations. The most illustrative are the portals, which have decorations of dragons, vines, and animal heads. Some of the portals have moved around the church, but they do date back to medieval times. These kinds of decorations are common on Valdres-Sogn stave churches. The roof and wall timbers are also original.

    Lomen Stave Church

    Vang Municipality

    Vang is a small municipality in the traditional Valdres region. The name comes from an old farm, though vang comes from the Old Norse word vangr meaning ‘field’ or ‘meadow’. The coat-of-arms are rather special – they are based on historic descriptions and depictions of the personal arms of a local medieval nobleman called Sigvat of Leirhol. He was named as one of the members of the delegation that followed King Håkon V Magnusson to Copenhagen in 1309. He then became the governor of Valdres. His coat-of-arms can also be seen on Vang Church. 

    The municipality was originally populated by migrants from Western Norway. 

    The ancient Vang Church was the site of a legal court held by King Håkon VI in 1368. 

    Høre Stave Church

    Høre Stave Church is one of the stave churches with an insight into the fascinating past of Norway. Especially around and shortly after the time of the Civil War in the 12th and early 13th century. We know that the Christianisation of Valdres wasn’t easy. St. Olav, then King Olav, came from the west through the valley. He held farmers hostage and burnt down farms until they agreed to convert. According to the Sagas, Olav had churches built and clergymen appointed. None of these churches remains, but many of the stave churches are on the same spot, including Høre Stave Church.

    In medieval times, Valdres had many churches. There were at least 21 of them; 18 of which were stave churches. To compare, the neighbouring valley Hallingdal had 8 stave churches. Sadly very few remain today. 

    Judging from the rune inscriptions found inside the church and dating the timber, Høre Stave Church is from around 1179. It was originally a pillar church, with four corner staves. Under the church are graves, some of them children. It wasn’t allowed but common to bury children under stave churches. As they had not been baptised yet, the parents worried the children would not be accepted into heaven. Some foetuses were also found under the church. There is evidence of ceremonial burials under the church, likely from pre-Christian times.

    The original stave church somewhat exists today; all that remains is its skeleton. The skeleton is hidden by the cladding. The ship is still the original size, giving a sign of the original size of the church room.

    Høre Stave Church

    Vang i Valdres

    The word ‘vang’ comes from an old farm that stood here; this farm is also where the first church stood. Vang, like the rest of the Valdres Valley, was populated by migrants from Western Norway. People have lived in this valley (Vangr means meadow or field) for thousands of years. This is likely due to its proximity between east and west Norway. Vang is by a lake just before the mountain pass to Western Norway and thus made for a good rest stop.

    Vang became the site of a legal court (ting in Norwegian), and the ancient stave church was next to the site. The site was famously used by King Haakon VI in 1368 when he was settling a boundary dispute.

    Vang also became part of the ancient royal road between Bergen and Oslo. In the 16th century, it was the postal road, and from the 18th century, it was Kongevegen. Kongevegen was the first road for horse and cart between East and West, and I’ve covered it on my page for the E16. Today, the highway follows the same path as Kongevegen. Still, the town and nearby area became a place where travellers would seek refuge at some point on their journey. 

    The Vang Stone is clearly marked and is by the E16. Parking is available across the street. 

    The Vang Stone

    Øye Stave Church

    Øye Stave Church is one of the smallest and oldest stave churches in Norway. It is likely from some time during the second half of the 12th century. The church is first mentioned in written documents in 1347. It stood by the old traffic road over Filefjell, which was the first road between Bergen and Oslo.

    Øye Stave Church

    Kongevegen

    Historic Road

    As you may have noticed by now, there are a number of churches and important historic sites along the E16. This is because the E16 follows one of the ancient crossings between east and west Norway. It is called ‘Kongevegen’ (The Kings Road). The road is ancient and is believed to have been the first way between east and west. The first postal road was laid here in 1647, and the road received official status in 1791. 

    Ever since people have lived in Norway has this been the most useful route between east and east. A number of tracks show traffic throughout the Stone Age and Bronze Age. The road was also important in the Christianisation of Norway, as is evident in the large number of churches along the road. Many ancient farms here also became inns for travellers, and some survive today. In the Middle Ages, the road was known as the most difficult and dangerous in the country. As many Danish public servants were travelling between Bergen and Christiania (Oslo), it was decided to modernize the road in the 17th century. The road was built as straight as possible and became known as the Royal Postal Road. Most of the trip was done on foot. 

    In the 18th century, travelling with horse and carriage became more common, so it was decided to modernise the road again. In 1791, the official road was completed and Kongevegen became the first carriage road between east and west Norway. The road was built by hand. Today the E16 skips many of the most difficult parts with tunnels, but parts of the old road remain and are now a popular hiking trail. In 2017, Kongevegen was awarded the EU’s most important cultural heritage award, Europa Nostra. 

    It is possible to spend the night in one of the many lodges over the mountains and do short or long hikes. 

    Tyinkrysset

    Village

    Tyinkrysset is a village located in the Filefjell mountains, which is where the historic crossing between east and west Norway was. The village sits at an elevation of around 900 metres (3,000 feet). This area is popular with hikers. You’ll find some hotels up in the area. 

    Filefjellet Mountains

    Mountains

    You are now crossing the Filefjellet mountain range across to Western Norway. It has been an important crossing path between east and west Norway since ancient times. The highest peaks are 1013m above sea level. 

    The E16 follows a lot of the same path as the old road. 

    Lærdal Municipality

    Lærdal is the first municipality in Vestland county. Lærdal has a dry climate, with 420mm – 600mm of rainfall annually in the inhabited areas. Through the valley runs the Lærdalselvi, or the Laerdal River, known as the ‘Queen of the Salmon Rivers’. It is one of the country’s most famous large salmon rivers. The valleys have opportunities for hunting deer, reindeer, and elk. The valley was inhabited and used by humans as far back as 6,000 years ago. In places, the vally has been used since the Early Stone Age. In the mountains are the first traces of people in the mountain areas of Norway.

    Lærdal has always been the main road between east and west Norway. The area where the village Lærdalsøyri is developed as a marketplace in the Middle Ages. Coastal farmers brought herring and fish and exchanged goods with mountain farmers from Valdres. At least five generations of road structure remain in the Lærdal valley, which proves the valleys important function as a hub. Lærdal has a long tradition with agriculture. The lower part of the valley has one of the country’s best climatic conditions for growing vegetables. Early production of potatoes and vegetables is important. 

    Borlaug

    Village

    The next village is Borlaug. This is where the E16 joins with Highway 52, which runs over the Hemsedal mountains (it’s an alternative way between Oslo and Bergen). You’ll pass some old farmhouses on the right as you drive through the village. 

    Borgund

    Village

    Borgund is a mountain village. It has been an important spot on the journey between east and west Norway for hundreds of years. There are several farms in the village and agriculture is the main industry here. 

    Borgund Stave Church

    Borgund Stave Church is the most famous of Norway’s 28 remaining stave churches. The exact age of Borgund Stave Church is unknown. It is possibly as old as 1150 when looking at the timber. However, the church is generally regarded as being from around the year 1200. It is dedicated to the apostle Andrew.

    The church is fascinating; a visit to it should not be missed. The church is open in the summer for tourists for a small fee. Check their website for more information. 

    Borgund Stave Church

    Lærdal

    You will bypass the village of Lærdal on the E16, but it’s a worthwhile detour to drive into the village. Lærdal is a historic trading place on the old postal route between Oslo and Bergen. It was where the travellers would leave their horses behind and take boats the rest of the way to Bergen. Lærdal is also a fantastic place for trying the foods from the Sognefjord region, including potatoes, berries, and cider. 

    You can read about Lærdal on our dedicated travel guide page. 

    Lærdal Travel Guide

    Aurlandsfjellet Tourist Road

    In the summer months, it’s possible to take the Aurlandsfjellet Tourist Road across to Aurland instead of going through the tunnel. 

    Aurlandsfjellet Tourist Road

    Lærdal Tunnel

    Tunnel

    Welcome to the world’s longest road tunnel! The Lærdal Tunnel is 24.5km (15.2 miles) long. The tunnel was constructed between 1995 and 2000 and cost $113 million USD. The tunnel does not have emergency exits; there are emergency phones every 250 metres as well as 15 turning areas for buses and semi-trailers. There are rooms in the tunnel with food and supplies in case anyone gets stuck in there. The tunnel has high air quality through ventilation and purification. 

    It incorporates features to help manage the mental strain on drivers. Every 6km there is a cave to separate sections of the road. The lighting varies throughout the tunnel and caves to break the routine.

    Aurland Municipality

    Aurland municipality is perhaps one of the most visited municipalities in Norway. After all, it is home to the famous Flåm village as well as the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Nærøyfjord. The main industry in Aurland is agriculture, with goats’ cheese being an important product from here. Tourism is also a major industry. 

    Aurland

    It is worth driving into the village of Aurland. In many ways, it is more charming than Flåm. Aurland is home to Vangen Church, a historic stone church from 1202. The fact that it is built in stone and not wood signifies that the area must’ve been of importance around the time it was built. Aurland is also home to the Aurland Shoe Factory, where the pennyloafer was invented.

    Aurland Travel Guide

    Flåm

    Located at the end of the Aurlandfjord, a branch of the Sognefjord, Flåm is a gorgeous little village. Many people come to Flåm to do the Flåm Railway, regarded as the most beautiful train journey in the world. This train journey goes from Flåm through the valley and up the mountains to Myrdal, located close to the Hardangervidda National park. Myrdal is also where you board the train to Bergen or Oslo. Besides the train ride, there’s a gorgeous ferry journey from Flåm to Gudvangen. It takes you on the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Nærøyfjord – something you shouldn’t miss.

    Flåm has a population of 350, though on a summer day there will be several thousand people in the village. Seriously. The Flåm Railway has become incredibly popular – it’s sold out months in advance. Additionally, Flåm is becoming a major cruise port.

    Flåm Travel Guide

    Gudvangen

    Village

    Gudvangen is a small village with a population of around 120. It is a popular tourist destination due to its proximity at the end of the Nærøyfjord. The popular Gudvangen – Flåm cruise stops here, and many people also come to visit the Viking Village in Gudvangen. The Viking Village is a recreated village as Gudvangen is believed to have been an important trading place for the Vikings. 

    It is worth driving into Gudvangen (approx 5 mins off the E16) and stopping in front of the Nærøyfjord. The Nærøyfjord is the narrowest branch of the Sognefjord, only 250 metres at its narrowest and 12 metres at its shallowest. The fjord is 20km long. It is UNESCO World Heritage-listed as it is one of the best representations of what a fjord looks like.

    Stalheim Hotel & Stalheimskleiva

    Historic Hotel

    The site where the hotel is has been an important place for hundreds of years. When the Royal Postal Road between Oslo and Bergen was established in the 17th century, this hotel was where the postal workers would stop to rest. 

    The hotel as it is known today opened in 1885 with 10 rooms. The hotel burned down in 1900, 1902 and 1959. The current hotel building you see today is from after the 1959 fire. Today the hotel is a high-end historic hotel where many famous people have stayed. It also has arguably one of the best views of any hotel in Norway, but good luck trying to see it. They don’t allow visitors to come in and take pictures without paying or having coffee. 

    Stalheimskleiva is a 1.5km (1 mile) stretch of road that leads from Stalheim Hotel down to sea level towards the Nærøyfjord. It was one of the country’s first roads built according to the new road engineering requirements that came around 1850, the so-called chaussee, with a maximum gradient of 1:20. Around 1,000 men built the road over 7 years. The road was a motorway for cars going in both directions, which was of course dangerous. It was eventually replaced with the two tunnels you’ll be driving through. The road then became a one-way tourist road, however in 2020 part of the road was in danger of collapsing due to landslide. In 2021, the road closed for all motor vehicles for the foreseeable future. This is due to the poor condition of the road and the extensive damage done by traffic. The road is on the conservation plan, so it’s being repaired and may become a hiking trail instead. 

    Across from the Stalheim Hotel is an open-air museum with farmhouses collected from the area. There are also a number of hiking trails starting from around the hotel, so it could be a good option for spending the night. 

    Voss Municipality

    Voss municipality is an inland municipality with about 90% of the area mountains over 300m (1000ft) above sea level. Because of that, the municipality is a popular place for people from Bergen to go skiing. Voss is home to the largest ski resorts in Western Norway. The area has been settled for at least 3,000 years, with people coming here for the rich valleys, waters, and animal life. Voss was also largely an isolated municipality, meaning it has kept its own unique culture and traditions. 

    Oppheim Lake

    Lake

    After leaving Gudvangen, you will drive up the Nærøy Valley. This is part of the UNESCO World Heritage area. The stone they are mining here is anorthosite, a rare stone found in large amounts in this valley. The stone is typically used on the roads because it is reflective. 

    The drive through the valley is short; you will then take two tunnels to get up the mountain. However, before you get into the tunnels, you will see a red hotel and a hairpin-turn road on the hillside. 

    As you drive along the lake, you’ll drive through the village of Oppheim and past the Oppheim Church. 

    Vinje

    Village

    Vinje is a small village located at the junction of the E16 and the Rv13, which runs over the Vikafjellet mountains to Vik by the Sognefjord. This is a long but beautiful detour; the road does close in winter, though. In Vik you’ll find the Hopperstad Stave Church (one of Norway’s 28 remaining stave churches) as well as some other historic buildings. 

    Tvindefossen

    Waterfall

    It is worth stopping and taking some photos of Tvindefossen Waterfall. It will be clearly marked with signs as you approach it. The waterfall is 152m high and has two streams (tvinde=twin). In the late 1990s, the waterfall acquired a reputation for having special powers of reviving sexual potency, so it became common to see visitors from the U.S., Japan and Russia visiting and filling containers with water. 

    Voss

    If you are following the E16, you will take a bypass and not see Voss at all. It is possible to drive into Voss, park by the lake, and see some of the town. 

    Voss has a population of around 14,000 people. The town is known for its cultural traditions in folk music, art, handicrafts, and traditional foods. Voss sits on the shore of the lake Vangsvatnet.

    During World War II, the town was bombed by the Luftwaffe and almost all the buildings were destroyed. 

    In Voss it’s worth visiting Voss Church. According to legend, the people of Voss was forced to convert to Christianity by King Olav (later Saint Olav). A stone cross can be seen by the lake which is believed to have been erected by St. Olav himself. The church was built in 1277 and is one of the only buildings to survive World War II. 

    In Voss you can do the Voss gondola to the top of the mountain, where the open-air museum is. 

    Voss Travel Guide

    Evanger

    Village

    Evanger has a well-preserved village centre that is believed to be one of the better-preserved villages in the area. Most of the wooden houses are from the late 19th/early 20th centuries. Evanger is known for its production of cured meat because the village is home to several companies that specialise in the production of traditional meats such as pinnekjøtt (dried, salted rib of lamb), cured lamb, and sausages. 

    Bolstadøyri

    Village

    Bolstadøyri is located at the end of the fjord. When the old postal road came through here, this is the point where the workers would leave their horses and take a boat to Bergen. This has always been an important meeting place for the courts as well as a trading post. 

    Vaksdal Municipality

    Vaksdal is a small industrial municipality in Western Norway. The coat-of-arms show three black shuttles for weaving. The shuttles were chosen to represent the textile industry of the municipality. The municipality is located alongside the fjord and is also very mountainous. 

    Dale

    Village

    Dale is a small industrial village with a population of around 1,100. The village was built around the Dale power planet and factory that were founded and constructed in the 1870s. The machines were brought over by boat from England – carding machines, spinning machines and 200 looms, as well as finishing and dyeing machines. When the factory was built, there was only a homestead here. However, by the end of the 19th century the factory had 500 employees and the village had 1,000 inhabitants. At its peak in the 1950s and 1960s, Dale had a population of 4,000. 

    Dale is where the Dale of Norway company is based. This is arguably Norway’s most famous textiles company. They make the sweaters for the Norwegian Olympics Team and are known for their classic patterns. There is an outlet store in Dale, if you wish to visit that. 

    Osterøy

    Island

    Soon you will reach the wider part of the Osterfjord, which you will follow for the journey into Bergen. Across the fjord is an island called Osterøy. Osterøy is the largest inland island in Norway at around 330km2. Around 8,000 people live on the island and it is largely an agricultural island. You’ll see the bridge to the island soon.

    Vaksdal

    Village

    Vaksdal is a small village located on the fjord. Like Dale, it is an industrial town. In the late 19th century, the Vaksdal Mølle (Mill) opened here, utilising the hydropower in the region. This is where flour would be made. At the time it was built, it was the largest mill in Northern Europe. 

    Bergen Municipality

    Welcome to Bergen! We are now on the outskirts of Bergen municipality. 

    Trengereid

    Village

    Trengereid is the next village you will pass on your way into Bergen. Like the other villages along the fjord, Trengereid was established in the late 19th century around a factory. The factory (Trengereid Fabrikker) specialised in ribbon and lace production. 

    In Trengereid you will see the round-a-bout that leads off to the Hardangerfjord and Hardanger Tourist Road. However, you have been driving from Oslo, so probably save that for a separate road-trip. 

    Arna

    Village

    Arna is one of Bergen’s eight districts and was incorporated into the city in 1972. Around 14,000 people live in Arna and are connected to the city centre of Bergen by the railway. The train between Bergen and Arna takes only 10 minutes as it cuts through the mountain Ulriken; the road follows the coastline and takes 30 minutes to get to the same place. 

    Bergen

    Welcome to Bergen! Bergen is Norway’s second-largest city and is regarded as the Capital of the Fjords. 

    Bergen Travel Guide

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Oslo, Where to Stay

    Where to Stay in Oslo (From a Tour Leaders Perspective)

    Where to Stay in Oslo (From a Tour Leaders Perspective)

    Welcome to Oslo! I’ve been to Oslo so many times and stayed in so many hotels, so I can understand that it may be a little overwhelming picking where to stay in Oslo. There are so many options, so many chains, and so many good locations to stay in. So, I’ve put together a list of some of the hotels that I recommend in Oslo, divided by region and price range. It’s tricky finding accommodation in Oslo for less than 1000 NOK a night, so don’t expect to come here on a budget.

    Here’s how I divide according to price:

    • High end: 1500 NOK a night and above
    • Mid range: 1000-1500 NOK a night
    • Budget friendly: Less than 1000 NOK a night

    Here’s my guide on where to stay in Oslo.

    In this article...

    Oslo Travel Guide

    Be sure to check out our Oslo travel guide! Here you can find all our recommendations of things to do and see, including our self-guided walks. 

    Central Station & Bjørvika

    Why Stay Here?

    Staying close to Central Station is certainly convenient, especially if you will be taking the train onwards to somewhere else in Norway. It also makes arriving from the airport very easy. The area of Bjørvika is part of the new urban development around the Oslofjord, and here you’ll find brand-new cafes, restaurants, bars and the Munch Museum, library, and opera house. Attend a show at the Opera House, have coffee in the new library, or explore the ’Barcode’ skyscaprers. If you want to head out for a walk, the historic area Gamle Oslo and the sculpture park Ekeberg are close by.

    High End

    Amerikalinjen

    This is one of Oslo’s most famous hotels. The hotel is in the old headquarters for the Norwegian America Cruise Line, and the hotel has recently undergone a major renovation. There is a bar inspired by New York, or you can listen to live jazz. The hotel also does comedy nights in both Norwegian and English.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Clarion Hotel Oslo

    Located in the trendy Barcode area, this new hotel is beautiful and modern. Clarion is a great chain to stay at in Norway; they offer free light dinners every evening. The hotel opened in 2020 and is approximately halfway between the Munch Museum and the Opera House. The Shutter Bar has food and drinks, and during summer there is an outdoor terrace. The hotel has a gallery inside as well.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Mid Range

    Clarion Hotel The Hub

    This is one of the newer hotels in Oslo. It is also located across the street from Central Station, so is one of the nicer options if you want to stay close to the train. The hotel is massive and has a nice bar on the top floor. The breakfast is also one of the best in Oslo.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Scandic Byporten

    I enjoyed staying at this hotel. The rooms are excellent and it’s located within the Byporten shopping centre, which you can use to access central station without having to go outside.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Thon Hotel Opera

    The rooms are a little small, but the hotel has excellent amenities and is in a wonderful location. It is a popular hotel for conferences and groups, so expect it to be a little busy.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Budget Friendly

    City Box Oslo

    This is a no-nonsense hotel right in the heart of the city. They cut costs by not having a reception or cleaning service (unless you request it), but the rooms have everything that you need and are perfect if you don’t plan on spending much time in your room.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Karl Johan Gate

    Why Stay Here?

    Karl Johan Gate is the main street running through Oslo, so of course it’s convenient to be located close by. However, I don’t recommend staying on the street itself; it’s good to stay a block behind it. The street gets very crowded in the summer months, so it doesn’t always feel nice to walk down there. However, it is the centre of the city and a good place to base yourself so you can get out and explore Oslo.

    High End

    Grand Hotel Oslo

    Located on Karl Johans Gate (in a nice and not-too-crowded part) just across the street from the Norwegian Parliament, this historic hotel is home to the Grand Café, where Henrik Ibsen would go for lunch every day. Every year the Nobel Peace Prize winner stays in this hotel. Some of the world’s most notable people including Charlie Chaplin and Dwight Eisenhower, have stayed here. It is considered one of the best hotels in Norway. If you can’t afford it, just visit for a coffee in the Grand Café.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Hotel Bristol

    This is a high-end hotel in a historic building. The suites are named after famous people from all across Europe who have previously stayed in the hotel. The hotel is styled in a 1920s art deco way, and the rooms are of good size.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Hotel Christiania Theatre

    This boutique hotel is tucked in between the City Hall and the National Theatre, and the building itself used to be a theatre. The hotel has been designed in a style to reflect its theatre past. The basic rooms include TVs, minibars, WiFi, and rainwater showers.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Mid Range

    Thon Hotel Rosenkrantz

    This hotel may look a little dull from the outside, but it has won awards for its design inside. The hotel also claims to have the best breakfast in Oslo, so maybe it is worth staying there.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Thon Hotel Cecil

    Located just off the park and Norwegian parliament, the Thon Hotel Cecil is in an excellent location. The rooms are decent sized and the breakfast is also excellent.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Scandic Victoria

    This is about as budget as it gets for staying around Karl Johans gate. It’s only across the street from the Grand Hotel but is half the price. Of course, it is not as extravagant, but it has everything that you need. The hotel is roughly halfway between Karl Johan Gate and Aker Brygge, so it’s centrally located for Oslo’s top attractions.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Budget Friendly

    K7 Hotel Oslo is one of the only budget options close to Karl Johan Gate. The hotel has single rooms or dorm rooms; only the dorm rooms fit into our ‘budget’ category.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Around Aker Brygge

    Why Stay Here?

    Aker Brygge was the first part of the Oslofjord area to be redeveloped and is now a string of trendy bars, restaurants and cafes with a variety of different cuisines that’ll keep you busy during your stay. Aker Brygge is also where Norway’s National Museum (The Scream by Edvard Munch is here!) is located, as well as the Nobel Peace Centre and Astrup Fearnley Gallery.

    High End

    The Thief

    The Thief is a luxury hotel in the trendy area of Tjuvholmen. The walls are covered in contemporary artwork, the rooms have designer furniture, and there are high end restaurants. The hotel also has a spa and pool area.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Mid Range

    Oslo Guldsmeden

    This hotel is an eco-friendly boutique hotel just a couple blocks from Aker BRygge. The style of this hotel is completely unique, with wooden four-poster beds, faux-fur cushions, and throws, tvs, wifi, and contemporary bathrooms.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Thon Hotel Vika Atrium

    This hotel is just within our mid-range category; most rooms would be classified as high end. The reason for the price is location, not amenities. It is very similar to other Thon hotels.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Around the Royal Palace

    Why Stay Here?

    The Royal Palace is a beautiful location to stay in Oslo. The Palace Park is perfect for your morning or evening walks, and the whole area feels less hectic than other parts of the city. The Historical Museum is located here, where you can see the only Viking helmet ever found. From here you can also enjoy a scenic 40 minute walk to the Vigeland Sculpture Park, or just hop on the tram.

    High End

    Camilla’s Hus

    This boutique hotel is in a villa from 1845. There are only seven rooms, giving a very nice B&B feel. The Camilla in the name refers to the house’s first resident, Camilla Collet, a prominent author, and women’s rights activist.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Mid Range

    Thon Hotel Europa

    The Thon Hotel Europa is part of the Thon chain of hotels. The rooms are large considering their location in the inner part of Oslo, and you are just across the street from the Royal Palace.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Radisson Blu Scandinavia Hotel

    This four-star hotel is a little nicer than the Thon Hotel Europa across the street, but it is considerably larger.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Budget Friendly

    Cochs Pensjonat

    Cochs Pensjonat has been operating for over 100 years and offers very affordable rooms just across the street from the Royal Palace. The rooms are simple but have everything that you need.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Around Grunerlokka

    Why Stay Here?

    Grunerlokka is a very cool neighbourhood. It only takes 20 minutes to walk to the city centre, but out here in Grunerlokka you have the incredible Akerselva walk, Mathallen food hall, and you can easily reach Damstredet and the Gamle Aker Church. If you’re looking to get away from the busy Oslo city centre, this is a great alternative.

    Mid Range

    Scandic Vulkan

    Located just above Mathallen, this hotel is excellent if you want to enjoy more of the hipster area. It’s only a 20-minute walk to Karl Johan Gate, meaning you aren’t that far from the city centre but still get to enjoy the feeling of being in a neighbourhood. The hotel is heated by geothermal energy. The rooms have what you need.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Budget Friendly

    Anker Hostel

    Anker Hostel is one of the cheaper options in Oslo. The rooms look so bare they could almost be prison cells, but they have everything you need and are a good option if you just want a place to sleep and spend your money on other things.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Oslo Travel Guide

    Be sure to check out our Oslo travel guide! Here you can find all our recommendations of things to do and see, including our self-guided walks. 

    Around Oslo

    Thon Hotel Snø

    Outside Oslo city centre is a facility called Snø, where you can ski inside all year round! There is a Thon Hotel connected to the building, so you can stay on site and ski as much as you like. Nothing more Norwegian than this!

    Click here for their website. 

  • Oslo, Walking Guides

    Industrial Heritage Along Oslo’s Akerselva River

    Self-Guided Walk on the Akerselva River in Oslo

    Here’s my self-guided walk on the Akerselva River in Oslo. The Akerselva is easily the most charming area in Oslo.

    The Akerselva (Aker River) is a 8.2km (5.1 mi) long river that flows through the middle of Oslo.

    The river can be credited with the development of Oslo. In the 19th century, it became the centre of the new industries coming to the city, as factories were able to utilise the power of the river.

    Today the river has been cleaned up and is known as ‘Oslo’s green lung’. Along the banks of the river are park areas, with the factories being converted into offices, schools, bars, cafes and restaurants.

    I honestly believe no trip to Oslo is complete without a visit to the river. While much of the city centre of Oslo feels like “Anywhere, Europe”, Akerselva has a distinctive personality that makes Oslo stand out from other Norwegian cities.

    This walk starts at Nydalen and continues all the way back to the city centre.

    In this article...

    Oslo Travel Guide

    You can find a detailed overview of Oslo, including practical, historic and travel information on our dedicated travel guide page. 

    Oslo Travel Guide

    The Walking Route

    Where we begin:

    We begin in Nydalen. To get there, take the metro to the stop ‘Nydalen’ and then walk through the shopping mall called ‘Torgbygget’. When you reach the river, cross the bridge and turn right. After 2-3 minutes, you’ll see the preserved factory. 

    Part One: Nydalen

    Nydalen is the first neighbourhood we will visit. The first mention of this neighbourhood was in 1578, when a farm called ‘Nygårdsdalen’, meaning ‘the valley belonging to the farm Nygård’, was mentioned in documents. 

    The area didn’t see major growth until the late 19th century, when the banks of the river were sold off and industrial buildings were constructed. The first type of industry in Nydalen was sawmills, but later the textiles industry came here and then the iron industry. 

    At the time, Nydalen was relatively isolated from Christiania, so it was important to build a community here. The workers were therefore very closely tied to the factory. For example, between 1857 and 1905 there was a school for the children who also had to work at the factory, and then from 1876 the companies financed their own midwives. When the tram came here in 1902, people moved further away and began to commute. 

    Today the neighbourhood is very modern with residential buildings, commercial and service establishments, shopping centres, eateries and corporate offices. The BI Norwegian Business School is located here, and since the opening of the metro in 2003 a lot of people have been attracted to the area. 

    Bakke Mølle

    Bakke Mølle is a mill established in 1811 by Hans Nielsen Hauge, a famous Norwegian preacher and founder of the ‘Haugien movement’. He had just been released from prison after preaching illegally, and he was given the nearby farm Bakkehaugen from his brother. He had a dam and mill built on the property and did well, selling the mill in 1824.

    For a while Bakke Mølle was owned by Peter Larsen & Co and was important for Nydalen. Eventually the mill was taken over by Christiania Spigerverk, who was expanding in Nydalen (see the historic photo above) and wanted the waterfall at Bakke Mølle. The building we can see became a storage building. 

    Today the building is used by the local government as offices. 

    Part Two: Bjølsen

    Bjølsen is a district in Oslo’s north. The area is characterised by old workers housing and green areas. Bjølsen has a high young population and there is a lot of active nightlife along Bergensgata. Bjølsen has traditonall been a working class area. Half the population is under the age of 40.

    Vannvoktboligen

    Due to pollution, Christiania’s water intake was moved to Maridalsvannet in 1867. This increased so much pressure that a reduction pool had to be built here. It is still located at the top of the hill, above today’s playground. Upstairs is a watchtower that is now a kindergarten.

    Idun Gjaerfabrikk

    This is the second yeast factory to start up in the area. Idun was one of the companies that lasted the longest along the river, however in 2005 it ended after more than 100 years of operation. You can see the great factory gate towards Treschows gate.

    From the 1930s they also produced broth, vinegar, mustard and other foods. After 1991, the production of Idun mustard and ketchup as well as vinegar was transferred out of Oslo to Staburet. Yeast and baked goods production in Oslo was discontinued in 2005 and moved to Sweden. Idun still has bakery production elsewhere in the country. The factory was one of the last factories to be closed down. 

    From 2010, the factory area was converted to apartments. The wrought iron gate, designed by Henrik Bull, has been preserved. 

    Treschows Bridge

    For a few years in the 19th century the towns water intake was located by the bridge. The city’s water supplies improved when wooden water pipes were replaced with iron pipes. But the water was filled with sawdust and soon the water supply was moved. The bridge is named after Admiral Gerhard Treschow, who owned Bjølsen farm and was behind several industrial companies in the area.

    Bjølsenfossen

    Bjølsenfossen has largely influenced the industrial history of the area. From the 14th century onwards there were mills here, before Bjølsen Valsemølle took over and became the country’s largest flour producer. The waterfall, called Little Niagara, is the largest in Akerselva with a drop of 16 metres. The waterfall is unfortunately locked inside the factory area. You can hear the waterfall from one of the bridges.

    This is the largest waterfall on Akerselva but can’t be seen today. There is a proposal to open a footpath on the west side of the waterfall. There is a music group named after this area, Bjølsen Valsemølle.

    The deep gorge through the waterfall is called Jerusalem after an old farm in the area.

    Bjølsen Valsemølle

    Was the country’s largest flour mill. Built in 1884. The mill was founded by Gustav Martinson in collaboration with Ole Amundsen who owned Bjølsen Mølle. The silo is from 1939. As recently as 1967, Akerselva delievered power to production. The mill had 60 horses carrying grain and flour between Vippetangen and the mills at Bjølsen and Nedre Foss. From 1918 horse transport was replaced with the grain tram.

    You can visit their website here: https://www.bjolsenvalsemolle.no/

    Svalgangshuset

    House that belongs to Bjølsen Valsemølle. Located at Treschows gate 4. It is a two storey house where all the rooms have access from a covered porch. The house is from 1850 and was the mill master residence.

    Directors House

    House that belongs to Bjølsen Valsemølle. Located at Treschows gate 4. It is a two storey house where all the rooms have access from a covered porch. The house is from 1850 and was the mill master residence.

    Lilleborg Fabrikker

    Since 1712, soap has been boiled here. Lilleborg Fabrikker was established by Ludvig Mariboe in 1812 as a clothing factory. The factory was established in the old Jerusalem Paper Mill from the latter half of the 18th century. The mill was bought by Mariboe in 1812 and he wound up in the mill operation and instead established a clothing factory with the name Lilleborg Fabrikk.

    Eventually they built an oil mill and a by-product of the oil was soap, so in 1842 the soap factory was established. The company was sold in 1862 to Peter Wessel Wind Kildal, who focused the company on the oil mill and soap factory. He grew Lilleborg to be one of the most important companies in Norway. In 1987, the production of household goods was moved to Ski, where it still takes place today.

    Bentse Brug Bentsegata 31-35

    Norway’s first paper mill was built here in the 1690s. It was primarily newsprint and brown paper that were produced. Paper production was discontinued in 1898. Ole Bentsen, the owner of the paper mill, had received royal privilege from King Christian V and the mill was the first of its kind in Norway. 

    In 1858, it became the first mill in Norway to use wood pulp. By 1865, other companies were doing the same and Bentse Brug struggled to compete. In 1889, it went bankrupt and was then acquired. The buildings were demolished in 1976. 

    Part Three: Sagene

    Sagene is a district located 2-3km north of the city centre. Originally associated with factories, today Sagene is one of the more attractive areas to live in in Oslo.

    The area used to be a farm called Vøyen, which is from pre-Christian times. Nonneseter monastery owned Vøyen and Sagene with a mill and fishing rights. Christian IV laid the area out as an urban land in 1629. The main building on Nedre Vøyen still exists at Maridalsveien 87.

    From the 16th century Sagene had a population associated with sawmills. In 1624, the king decided that only half-timbered houses should be built in Christiania, and those who couldn’t afford it had to move to Sagene. In 1683, 89 people lived on Sagene.

    Factories were built up in the 1700s and 1800s and this attracted people to the area. In 1875, 2000 workers were here. A horse tram was completed around 1880.

    Myraløkka

    Has always been a popular place for ids to play and swim. The valley is shaped like an amphitheatre because huge amounts of clay were excavated here for making bricks. Akerselva had many brickworks, and the business was seasonal. The bricks were mined in the summer and the clay was burned at high temperatures. Under the round mound at the bottom of the amphitheatre is the factory chimney buried. At the top of Myraløkka is English-style workers housing that was completed in 1914.

    Myrens Verksted

    This is one of Akerselva’s pioneer companies. It was known as the ‘factories factory’ as it made and repaired machines for other companies. 

    Today the building is used by NRK. 

    Vøyen Brua

    From the beginning of the 17th century, the towns drinking water source was here. This was the city’s first public water intake. Hollowed out logs led the water to Akershus Fortress. For a fee, citizens could have branch pipes added to water posts in their own courtyard. At the same time it was common for the water to be filled with rotten sawdust.

    Woman's Monument

    Below the bridge is a monument of Betzy Kjelsberg (1866-1950), a female pioneer and Norway’s first female factory inspector. As a factory inspector, she had responsibility for children and women’s working conditions throughout the country.

    Nords Isproduksjon

    Before the time of refrigerators, goods were cooled down with ice. In the 19th century, Martin used Edvard North Akerselva for ice production. He cut out ice blocks and the demand for ice was so great that eventually he dammed up parts of the Ila valley to make ice ponds. The water he collected was put into one large ice rink down by Waldemar Thranes gate.

    Glads Mølle

    Yellow building. It is from 1736 and is called Glads Mølle. It is Akerselva’s oldest preserved factory building and is the only listed industrial building. It made paper and is still a printing house inside.

    Beierbrua

    Named after Anders Beyer, who owned it in 1671. It is one of the finest bridges along the river and is the factory girls bridge. The bridge was a link between the textile industry on the west of the river and the residential areas on the east side. The sculpture is from 1986 and is made by Ellen Jacobsen.

    Hjula Væverier

    The founder of this company was Halvor Schou, who had been studying the brewing of beer in England. He came back to Norway, however, with plans to make a textiles factory. His factory became the largest textile factory in Akerselva. The factory supplied dresses, shirts, and bus clothes. It closed in 1857. 

    Due to the American Civil War, cotton supplies became low so Schou began producing wool sweaters. 

    The clothing company closed in 1957. Today, a real estate company called Hjula Vaeveri Halvor Schou currently operates.

    The buildings still stand today and characterise the area of Akerselva. 

    Hønse Lovisa House

    This charming red house was a sawmills residence and today it is a nice little café.

    It is known as Hønse-Lovisa’s House. Why?

    Hønse-Lovisa was an important literary figure in the play The Kid. The name has been associated with the house since the 1970s because it was used in the film adaptation from 1974. The play takes place in the industrial area along the river at the end of the 19th century. There is an older woman called Hønse-Lovisa. Her house is called ‘Hønsereiret’ because she takes care of single mothers. She gives the factory girls who are injured a roof over their heads so they can keep their kids even if they are illegitimate cildren. The character represented a revolt against societal norms that existed about single mothers and their children in the 19th century.

    Workers Museum

    This is an old wood house building on Sagveien 28. The museum tells about Akerselva’s labour and industrial history. A little further away is an apartment on Sagveien 8 which shows the living conditions of the workers.

    Vøyens Bomuldsspinderi

    South of Beierbrua is the textile giant Vøyens Bomuldsspinderi, founded by Knud Graah. The textile factory started in 1846 and lasted until 1955. At the time the river had colour in it due to the cloth dyeing. Even the rates were green, blue or purpose. If you go down the stairs on the west side of the river you can feel the splash from Nedre Vøyenfallene.

    Part Four: Øvre Grunnerløkka

    Grunerlokka was named after the mint master Friedrich Gruner who owned Nedre Foss Mill. Grunerlokka was incorporated into Oslo in 1858. Before it became part of Oslo, a neighbourhood of affordable wooden houses was built here called “New York”.

    From 1861 the land was sold off to be developed.

    The district became an immigrant district, and many of the Jews who immigrated at the end of the 19th century settled here. Most immigrants came from Nordic countries. In recent times, it is Pakistanis and Turks who left their mark on the district. Grunerlooka has also always been popular with artists, and Edvard Munch lived in both Fossveien 7 and Thorvald Meyers gate 48 (now Shous plass 1). In the latter he painted Sick Child and Spring.

    Sannerbrua

    Discharges from factories and sewerage made the river a stinking puddle. It was the worst in the summer. It was not so bad on Sundays when the factories weren’t operating. It got so bad that the conservatives in 1915 proposed to put a lid on the river was a river when it should be a smile. That same year, the city council decided that the river should be cleaner and there should be parks. During the cleaning strikes in the 1920s the bins were emptied into the river and as late as 1962 there were 71 outlets from the public sewer system into the river.

    Åmot Bridge

    Suspension bridge from 1851. Was moved here in 1952. On the bridge we find the inscription “100 men I carry, but fail during steady march”

    Christiania Seildugsfabrik (Seilduken)

    The canvas was one of the largest workplaces along the river, founded in 1858. The factory produced canvas and ropes, and people made a pilgrimage here to look at the building – which was described as the second largest after the castle. Today the Oslo Academy of Arts has moved to the plot, and if you take the hill up by Åmot Bridge, you find the college patio.

    One of the best preserved industrial plants. The factory made sails for sailing ships but gradually expanded to fishing equipment, nets, ropes and sacks. It was established by Ole Hauge. Most of the employees were women and the working conditions are among the worst in the entire city. In 1908 there were 900 employees here. Production was discontinued in 1960 when there was overproduction of textiles in the world.

    In 1999, the buildings were given to the Oslo Academy of Arts.

    Akers Mek. Verksted

    On the site by the factory is a small half-timbered house by the river. This was the Akers Mek. Workshop in 1841. Eventually the business moved to Pipervika.

    The founder was War Captain P.S. Steenstrup, who owned the factory until his death in 1863. He was the master of Norway’s first steamship, D.S. Constitutionen. He had built Carl Johans Shipyard as the navy’s main shipyard.

    The company moved by the Oslofjord in 1854 and grew into a shipyard.

    Kuba

    There are different views about the origin of the name Cuba, but one of the theories is that the name can be seen in connection with the wooden houses called “new york” further down. It is a large circular square on the west side of the river that used to have a giant gas bell owned by Oslo gassverk. For a long time, gas was the competitor to electricity, and gas was used in street lights. Gas was produced by heading up coal, and therefore there is a lighthouse here. The gas bell has been torn down, but the lighthouse is restored and has re-emerged as a café.

    Christiania was the second city in the Nordic region to have its own gasworks after Christiania. The municipality took over the gasworks in 1878. The gas plant improved the city’s street lighting, but it was also in demand for indoor lighting in factories, institutions and in prosperous homes. When electricity came, gas was outcompeted as an indoor light source. For private space heating, gas was of little important. When the gas burner came for cooking in 1890s, gas was in demand.

    During the 1920s electric stoves became more common and street lighting was electrified. The last gas lantern disappeared in 1929. The company continued because many businesses preferred to use gas in production rather than electricity because gas heat was quicker. However, the gasworks was closed in 1976. The old office building in Storgata has a historic sign on it.

    The Silos

    This belonged to Bjølsen Valsemølle and was completed in 1953. In an architectural competition in the 1980s it was proposed to turn it into a hotel, but it was taken over by the student organisation and turned into a student house. In 2002 it received the Oslo City Architecture Prize. If we look through the window in the first one, we can see a tram – this is what the grain tram looked like.

    Part Five: Nedre Grunerløkka

    Nedre Foss

    From ancient times the boats went all the way up here. Today, only the fish take the route at Nedre Foss. There are traces of what is perhaps the country’s oldest mill operation. The monks from Hovedøya had a mill here, which was later taken over by the King at the Reformation in 1537 and then went by the name of the King’s mill.

    The farm was owned by Hovedøya monastery and was well located for business since the only bridge over Akerselva was here. A fee was charged for crossing the bridge until 1865. The king took over the farm during the Reformation in 1537 and in the early 17th century instructed farmers to cut timber and drive it to the rising saw at Nedre Foss. The farm was called “Kongens Mølle”.

    Salmon went up Nedre Foss and the fishing provided income to the farmer.

    The farm was subdivided in 1668 and after that Fredrik Gruner bought the farm. His surname gave name to the neighbourhood. The family owned the property for extended periods of time. In 1801, farming was largely discontinued. Plans for dredging the river and establishing a harbour at Nedre Foss were discussed in the 1840s and 1850s. In the 1850s, Gruner subdivided 53 plots of land 30 metres south of the farm, and the wooden building known as ‘New York’ was built.

    The silo was in operation until 2000.

    A mill has been here since before the 1200s and mill operations took place here until 1985. The main building from the farm remains – it was restored and opened in 2017 as a restaurant, but later that year parts of the building were damaged by fire.

    Nedre Foss Park

    Here you’ll find Grunerløkka’s oldest building. The main building is from 1802, however there has been a farm here since the Middle Ages when it was owned by the monastery on Hovedøya, later by the Gruner family, and most recently by Bjølsen Valsemølle. There has been mill operations since the 13th century until 1985. The municipality bought the areas by Nedra Waterfall to build one of Akerselva’s greenest areas.

    Grunerhagen

    The Gruner family, who gave the name to the area Grunerlokka, laid out a legendary garden on the east side of the river. They found a pond, terraces, gazebos, fruit trees, geese and peacocks. The garden was private and surrounded by a fence. Today only the name survives.

    The family laid out the garden in the beginning of the 18th century as a magnificent garden. The park had terraces, avenues, a pond with gazebos on stilts and a zoo with peacocks, geese and turkeys. There are no pictures of the old garden. The park was completely redesigned in the middle of the 19th century. When Edvard Munch lived on Fossveien and made pictures of the park there was still a pond. In the early 20th century, the park was dilapidated. During the war it was used for growing food. In 1986 a real estate company wanted to build offices, hotels and homes in the area. After major protests from the residents, through a state zoning plan for Nedre Foss, the park was preserved.

    Vulkan & Mathallen

    Vulkan Jernstøberi was built by Akerselva in 1873 and was a pioneer in Norway in the production of steel bridges. The old area now has hotels, restaurants, the Dansens hus, the School of Communications and Mathallen Oslo which moved here in 1908.

    Former industrial area. In 2013-2014 the area was transformed into a business and residential area. In earlier times there was a sawmill here. The sawmill closed in 1840. There was also a cement factory, brickworks, veneer saw and chair factory here, as well as Oslo’s first publicly available shower path.

    In 1873, Vulkan Jernstøberi took over the site. They specialised in steel bridges for railways and roads, but also had other assignments, such as the dome at the old Colosseum cinema. It closed in the late 1950s. The buildings were then rente dout for various business and office purposes.

    The redevelopment has been praised with several awards for the way the old industrial area has been redeveloped.

    Grunerbrua

    Akerselva’s oldest bridge was where Grunerbrua is today. Until Vaterlandsbrua was built in 1654 this was the only connection between east and west. Before the bridge was called Frysja Bridge, Akers Bridge and Møllebroen. Today th ename restifies that the Gruner family owned the bridge. You used to have to pay tolls to get to the city, and this was the only bridge over the river. Battles took place here during the civil war.

    Christiania Bryggeri

    For a time, the city had many breweries and beer was promoted as a healthy drink. The Christiania brewery was located at Maridalsveien 3, where the city archives are located today.

    Ved Brenneriveien

    One of the city’s popular concert venues, Blå, is located on Brenneriveien, and on Sundays there is a market with arts and crafts. Right by the bridhe someone has put up the sign “Ingens gate”. On the opposite side we find a curved building that once housed Indigo, Akerselva’s Klaedesfabrik, which engaged in cloth dyeing, and further down is the Hausmania culture house.

    There are older industrial buildings on both sides of the street. The left side has a huge complex that used to be a brewery and food factory from 1855 to 1972, later small industry, cultural activities and offices. At number 9 there has been a textile factory since the mid 1850s,

    The street is known today for its concerts, markets, and bars.

    Norwegian Design & Architecture Centre

    Oslo’s oldest transformer station. Today it has exhibitions on design and architecture.

    Jakob Church

    The only listed church in Oslo that is not a medieval church. Consecrated in 1880 and is located in the former Ankerløkken cemetery, which was a cholera cemetery. The church was threatened with closure in the 1980s, but has remerged as a cultural church.

    Ankerbrua

    Named after one of Oslo’s richest families, the Anker family, but is also called the adventure bridge. The bronze decorations from 1937 are made by Dyre Vaa and taken from Norwegian folk tales.

    Part Six: Vaterland

    Vaterland is a district. The name comes from the Dutch Waterland and can refer to the water-stretched land at the mouth of Akerselva. Dutch schooners docked here to load timber in the 17th century. The first settlement here was older than Christiania, but the suburb was burned by the governor in 1658. After the construction of Vaterland’s Bridge in 1654, it was an important gateway to the city.

    Vaterland was a centre for peasant trade and also became a place for pubs, brothels and prisons. Vaterland was the scene of organised crime well into the 20th century. Most of the buildings in the area were demolished from the end of the 1950s in connectionw with the construction of the metro between Tøyen and Jernbanetorget. Today many big buildings are at Vaterland and a lot of the old part of the district is gone.

    Nybrua

    Here people had berths, but in the 1960s everything was levelled with the ground and the lower part of the river laid under a lid. The boat people were moved to Hovedøya and the old buildings were replaced with high-rise buildings and traffic machines. It’s like Vaterland had ever been nice. Nybrua was built in 1827 because King Karl Johan demanded a finer for the entrance than the previous bridge. The emergency room is located here.

    Hausmannsbrua

    Named after Lieutenant general Fredrik F. Hausmann. The bridge is a cast iron bridge from 1892 and is worthy of protection and equipped with ‘iron lace’. It was built exceptionally solid because the city had procured an 18-ton modern steamroller that required a strong bridge. When the bridge was expanded to five lanes in the 1980s, they managed to copy the decoration and retain the bridges appearance.

    Vaterlandsbrua

    Everyone who came from the east of the city had to go over Vaterlandsbrua. Over Vaterland went one of the towns oldest bridge connections, and the first Vaterlandsbrua was built in 1654. Earlier was the city’s sewer lines, and when Christiania’s first sewer line launched in 1846, no one found that it was sent out to Vaterlandsbrua. The sludge led to a fermentation process so that gas bubbles formed on the river surface, which the kids lit to make bangs or so-called gunpowder bits.

    Vaterland Park

    Here you’ll see the bust of Olafia Johannisdottir (1863-1924), an Icelander who lived and worked as a slum nurse among prostitutes and the poor in Vaterland until her death.

    Here the river enters a 500m long tunnel before it appears again by the sea. There used to be two more bridges down to the river, but today they are just a memory.

    Brugata

    Brugata was Christiania’s access road from the east and north after the construction of Vaterland’s Bridge in 1654. Peasant farms were built here, and some can still be seen today. The western part of the street is today dominated by restaurants, immigrant shops, and a shopping centre.

    Number 3 Is Teddy’s Soft Bar, which opened in 1958. In the backyard you can see the remains of a peasant farm that was probably built in the middle of the 18th century.

    Brugata 6 was a farm built in the 1760s.

    Brugata 9 is Den Røde Mille. The house is from 1870 and it is built on the foundation of a house that stood there in the 18th century.

    Number 14 is a half-timbered house from the end of the 18th century. It used to have a guest house on the ground floor.

    End of the Walk

    The walk ends at Brugata, where you can turn right off the river and make your way into the city. Brugata is only a couple blocks from Oslo Central Station.

    I hope you enjoyed this beautiful walk down the Akerselva River! Let me know in the comments what you think about the walk. 

    Oslo Travel Guide

    You can find a detailed overview of Oslo, including practical, historic and travel information on our dedicated travel guide page. 

    Oslo Travel Guide
  • Central Norway, Dombås, European Highways, Gudbrandsdalen, Hamar, Lillehammer, Oppdal, Oslo, Otta, Ringebu, Road-trips, Trondheim

    Drive it Yourself: Oslo to Trondheim on the E6

    Drive it Yourself: Oslo to Trondheim on the E6

    The E6 is the longest road that runs through Norway. Starting in Svinesund, on the Swedish border, it goes all the way to Kirkenes on the Russian border, stretching 2,576km.

    The busiest stretch of road, and the part that we cover here, is the stretch between Oslo and Trondheim. The E6 also follows the old Pilgrims Road that went from Hallvard Cathedral in Oslo to Nidaros Cathedral in Trondheim, and you will see many historic places associated with the old pilgrim’s road.

    This guide will start at the part of the E6 shortly after Oslo Airport, when you cross into Eidsvoll County.

    In this article...

    Downloadable Version of This Guide

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

    View at the Store

    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Information about facilities along the way

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the region & towns
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Facilities including supermarkets, toilets, petrol, hotels, cafes, restaurants with addresses.

    Oslo to Trondheim on the E6

    Oslo

    This drive begins just north of Oslo’s Gardermoen Airport, but you can learn more about Oslo via the travel guide below. 

    Oslo Travel Guide

    Eidsvoll Municipality

    The first municipality that you cross through after Oslo is Eidsvoll.

    The part ‘eid’ means “a road passing around a waterfall”, while ‘voll’ means “meadow” or “field”. The name therefore refers to the fact that people from the districts around the lake Mjøsa (you will see it later) were sailing down the river Vorma and people from Romerike were sailing up the river. They had to enter this area by passing the Sundfossen Waterfall. Because of this, the site has been an important meeting place long before the introduction of Christianity. The coat-of-arms depict a scale as a symbol of justice, representing the old court.

     

    Eidsvoll is mentioned in the Old Norse Sagas back to the 11th century. The sagas were a court and assembly for the eastern part of Norway mostly due to the lake and the river that served as a transport road. Historically the main industry was agriculture, despite the fact that there is a lot of clay in the soil.

    The town of Eidsvold in Queensland, Australia, and Eidsvold Township in Minnesota use the old spelling of the municipality. The current ‘Eidsvoll’ was adopted in Norway in 1918.

    Small Detour: Eidsvoll Town

    Eidsvoll is a historically important place in Norway. You must leave the E6 and take a small detour, but it is worth it. Eidsvoll Church is an old church from 1200 and is built in the Romanesque style. The church is located on the old Pilgrims Road and is one of the important stops along the way.

    Eidsvoll Verk (how it is written on Google Maps) refers to the smelt iron ore that King Christian IV of Denmark opened in 1624. He was relying on the excellent water power from the Andelva River. The smeltery was taken over by Kongsberg Silver Mines. Carsten Anker bought the works in 1794 and restored it, setting up the production of stoves and similar iron goods. He also took residence in Eidsvoll, building a manor house now known as Eidsvollsbygningen. The Eidsvoll Verk has closed, but the name still remains. The old mill can be seen in the town.

    In 1854, Eidsvoll became the end point for the first railroad line in Norway from Oslo.

    This is the site where the constitutional assembly met to draft and sign the Constitution of Norway on the 17th of May 1814. The building is considered to be one of Norway’s most important national monuments and the cradle of modern Norway. Today it is a museum. The home was lived in by Carsten Anker, owner of the iron works, lived here during the time when it was used to sign the constitution. He went bankrupt in 1822 and the ownership of the estate was transferred to British creditors. A group of private citizens led by Henrik Wergeland organised a fundraiser that allowed them to buy the building with the pavilion and surrounding garden. When the purchase was finalised, the group donated the property to the Norwegian estate.

    I will visit the building eventually and write a more detailed overview of it.

    Minnesund

    Minnesund is a small village on the southern tip of Lake Mjøsa at the place where the lake flows into the Vorma River. Minnesund is an old ferry pier and has always been important for travel and communications. 

    Lake Mjøsa

    Lake Mjøsa is the largest lake in Norway and the 35th largest in Europe. It is also Norway’s and Europe’s fourth-deepest lake with the greatest depth being 453 metres. Lake Mjøsa provides drinking water for up to 100,000 people.

    The area around the lake is one of the most fertile agricultural districts in Norway.

    The meaning of the word ‘Mjøsa’ is unknown.

    In summer the surface temperature averages between 13 and 16 degrees and up to 20 degrees deep in the Furnesfjorden. Parts of the lake freeze over in December. In January, almost all the lake is covered with ice and in particularly cold winters the entire lake can be covered with ice in February.

    Mjøsa is home to Norway’s largest inland fishery and is also one of the country’s most species-rich lakes. 21 fish species have been found in the lake, including perch, trout, pike and other species.

    The lake has also been an important transport and traffic artery, even when frozen. The lake is commonly mentioned in the Viking Sagas and the transport of goods on the lake was probably extensive and well organized in the Viking Age and Hamar’s heyday in the High Middle Ages. Salt, grain, iron, coffee, sugar and tobacco went north, while alcohol, glass, timber, ore, cheese, butter and grain went south. Steamships were launched on the lake in 1840 for better transport.

    Innlandet County

    You will now be driving through Innlandet County. 

    Stange Municipality

    Stange is the first municipality you will pass through in Innlandet county. There have been settlements here since well before the Viking Age. Because of the old transport route went along here, there has been trade and hospitality here since time immoral. Stange Church, with is in Stange village, is first mentioned in 1225 in Håkon Håkonssons saga. The current building is from 1250.

    Stange is one of the largest agricultural municipalities in Innlandet. Norway’s oldest agricultural school, Jønsberg High School, is located here. The high school teaches in nature management, agriculture, animal husbandry, forestry, and biology, as well as organic farming, mathematics and chemistry. The school was established in 1847. You will pass the school on your right shortly before going into Hamar.

    Espa

    Espa is a small village that saw fighting during World War II, when battles were fought between Norwegians and Germans to prevent the Germans from following the King as he fled Oslo. The Espa Servicesenter has become kind of (?) famous because it has sold a large number of buns in recent years, earning the nickname ‘bolle land’ . You can visit their website here: https://www.bolleland.no/

    Hamar Municipality

    Hamar municipality is named after the main town in the area – Hamar. We’ll cover Hamar next, but first lets talk about the coat-of-arms for the municipality. The coat-of-arms depict a Black Grouse sitting on top of a pine tree. The first version of this coat-of-arms was depicted in 1553

    Hamar

    Hamar is the first major town on the E6. It is also one of the major historic towns in Norway and was one of the powerful centres of Norway during the Viking and medieval times. 

    You can read our separate guide to Hamar below. 

    Hamar Travel Guide

    Ringsaker Municipality

    Ringsaker Municipality gets its name from the old Ringsaker Church. The coat-of-arms shows a moose; the image is taken from a pre-historic cave painting that has been found in the municipality. The area is mentioned in King Harald Hårfagres Saga as well as St. Olavs Saga when St. Olav was christening the area.

    Ringsaker is primarily an agricultural and lumbering region. 

    Brumunddal

    The town of Brumunddal (population 11,019) grew as a settlement with the establishment of the Dovre train line in 1894. The major industry in the town is agriculture and forestry. Close to Brumunddal is the Mjøsa Tower (Mjøstårnet), the world’s tallest wooden building. It is 18 floors and 85.4 metres high. 

    Rudshøgda

    Rudshøgda is best known as the childhood home of author, poet, playwright, songwriter and musician Alf Prøysen. Prøysenhuset is a cultural centre and museum honoring his memory. He wrote the very popular Mrs Pepperpot series of childrens books.

    Moelv

    The town of Moelv (population 4,459) was built around various mills that were utilising the power of the Moelva River. The largest industrial company here is Moelven Industrier, which is one of Scandinavia’s leading suppliers of building products.

    Rock carvings have been found in Moelv that can be traced back tot he Stone Age and are generally regarded as the best-preserved rock carvings in Norway. Additionally, the Ringsaker Church is located here. It was completed in the middle of the 12th century and is dedicated to St. Olav. 

    North of Moelv is Tovsteinsringen (The twelve-stone ring). This is an ancient stone circle that is often compared to Stonehenge (this one is much, much smaller). It is believed to have been the site of a burial ritual, likely for a wealthy, high-ranking person.

    Lillehammer Municipality

    Lillehammer Municipality is named after the major town of Lillehammer, your next detour. The name Lillehammer means “Little Hammer” and was developed as a new trading town on the Lake Mjøsa after Hamar, hence the name. The coat-of-arms depict a birkebeiner, a 12th-century civil war fighter, carrying a shield, who is skiing down a silver/white mountainside under a blue sky. The birkebieners carried the future King Haakon from Lillehammer to Rena on skis during the Civil War.

    There have been settlements here since the Iron Age and the market here was mentioned in Håkon Håkonssons saga in 1390. It was also believed to have a site for the Ting assembly. However, despite this history, Lillehammer was registered as a trading down in 1827.

    Lillehammer

    Lillehammer is the next major stop on the E6. There is so much to say about Lillehammer, so check out our separate travel guide page. 

    Lillehammer Travel Guide

    Øyer Municipality

    Øyer Municipality is the first municipality within the Gudbrandsdalen region. The coat-of-arms show a silver-coloured wooden ring on a green background. This is a type of ring that was historically made of wood and was used to fasten a tree trunk to a rope to haul it over the land. Similar devices were used all over Norway, but this shape was typical for the area.

    Øyer was one of the area’s most severely impacted by the Black Death in 1349-1350. It is believed that up to 75% of residents here died, and many of the farms were deserted until the late 17th century.

    Øyer is a farming and logging municipality, though recreation is increasingly through the ski centres.

    Tretten

    Tretten is a small village with a population of 860. In 2022, it made the news as the bridge that crosses the river completely collapsed. 

    Ringebu Municipality

    Ringebu municipality is located within the traditional Gudbrandsdalen region and has a population of 4,800. The largest and main settlement is the town of Ringebu. The coat-of-arms represents shows three flames, representing the three valleys and three parishes in the municipality.

    Ringebu

    Ringebu may be a small village, but it is home to Norway’s largest stave church. Read our travel guide below. 

    Ringebu Travel Guide

    Sør-Fron Municipality

    Sør-Fron Municipality is a small municipality in the Gudbrandsdalen valley. The coat-of-arms show a white or silver club on a green background. The club is reminiscent of the club that Kolbein Sterke used in 1021 when King Olav Haraldsson met the people of Fron and Dale-Gudbrand at Hundorp. The meeting is depicted in the Norse Sagas.

    The most important industries here are agriculture, industrial factories, and tourism.

    The famous play Peer Gynt is staged annually at Lake Gålå in the mountains around Sør-Fron. It is believed that Peer Gynt is set in the area.

    Hundorp

    Hundorp is the administrative centre of the municipality. Historically, Hundorp is a very important place. It was the centre of the petty kingdom of the Gudbrand Valley and as such an important place in terms of religion and politics.

    All this took place at Dale-Gudbrand’s farm. Dale-Gudbrand is a famous historic figure from the 1100s. He is mentioned in multiple Norse sagas, but most famously in the story of Olav the Holy christianising Gudbrandsdalen. You can read the story here. The image above is a drawing of Olav christianising the farmers. 

    Around the farm are five large grave mounds, though sadly one of them was removed. The four remaining are between 23 and 32 metres (75ft and 105ft). Additionally, there’s a square ring of stones and the remains of a round ring of stones, indicating a possible worshipping site.

    Today it is a Pilgrim Centre. There is a small farm shop with local food products and souvenirs. You can also spend the night there if you wish. Click here to visit their website. 

    Harpefoss

    Harpefoss is a small town with a population of 335. The name comes from the railway development in 1896, when the railway station was named Harpefoss. People have lived here for centuries, though, and old names were Skurdal and Ryssland. Harpefoss is the name of the waterfall that separates two hamlets.

    During the railway development, Harpefoss Hotel was built. It is the only hotel left that is one of the original hotels from the railway development period that still stands. It is built in Swiss style with neo-Gothic features. It has long since been closed down as a hotel, and after a period as a country store, the house is now a residence.

    In Harpefoss you can stay in a historic farm! 

    The farm ‘Sygard Grytting’ has belonged to the same family since the 14th century. The current owner is the 16th generation since the year 1534. 

    It’s believed that as far back as Christianity goes, pilgrims would stay at the property on their way towards Nidaros in Trondheim. Because of these, there are unusual details in some of the buildings that are very similar to details found in monasteries. 

    You can stay in historic houses from the 17th century – the same houses the pilgrims stayed in – or buildings from the 19th century. 

    The property is still a working farm. 

    Agriculture specialises in sheep, grain, grass production and forestry. In ancient times, the operation was very versatile and the farm was self-sufficient in most things.

    Sødorp Church

    Sødorp Church is a wooden cruciform church from 1752. It’s believed the first church on the site was a stave church, but it was replaced in 1570 and no trace of it remains today. In 1752, the church was replaced once again with the church we have today.

    Originally the church stood in Sødorp, a small town just south of Vinstra – hence its name. However, Vinstra emerged as a major town in the early 20th century, and it was decided to move the church there. In 1910, the church was moved to its present location. 

    The 18th century church originally had a very high tower, but it was destroyed by wind in 1850. The church then got a stumpy small tower (click here for a photo of it). When it was moved to Vinstra, they made a new high tower for the church. You can see photos of the construction process here, here, and its completion here. 

    Much of the interior is from the 18th century, including the altarpiece, pulpit, choir arch, crucifix and relief figures. The soapstone baptismal font is from the Middle Ages, though.

    In the graveyard you’ll find a memorial stone to the real Peer Gynt. 

    Nord-Fron Municipality

    Nord-Fron is a small municipality with a population of around 5,600. It is home to Skåbu, a village located 870m above sea level. It is Norway’s highest situated rural area with a permanent settlement. The coat-of-arms depicts a Dole Gudbrandsddal horse; the area has a long tradition of horse breeding and is one of the main centres in Norway.

    Kvam

    Kvam is probably most famous for the battles that took place here during World War II. During the military campaign in Norway in 1940, Kvam was the scene of a battle between German and British forces. During the battle, the original Kvam Church (from 1776) was destroyed, along with 70 houses. There is a whole Wiki page to the battles, which you will find here. 

    By Kvam Church is the Peace Park, which is a memorial to the locals killed during World War II. There are also memorials on Stølane (Kvamsfjellet) where Russian soldiers were shot by Germans, and on Hillingen where three Norwegian soldiers lost their lives in a battle against German troops.

    Kvam has a British military cemetery. There is also a museum about World War II, the Gudbrandsdal War Memorial Collection, in town.

    Remember the battle at Otta in 1612 between Norwegian peasants and the Scots? Well, after the battle 134 Scottish prisoners were taken from Otta to Kvam. At Klomstadlåven, most were killed in a massacre. The barn building where they were kept before they were massacred, was destroyed during World War II.

    Kvam currently has a population of 762. Most of the industry has closed down in the last few years.

    Sel Municipality

    Sel’s coat-of-arms depicts a girl playing a trumpet. This represents the local legend about the Prillar-Guri, where in 1612 a Scottish army marched through on its way to Sweden. They were stopped by the farmers at the Battle of Kringen, and legend says that the farmers were made aware of the army’s arrival by a local girl with a trumpet.

    Sel is regarded as one of the more scenic and historically significant areas of the Gudbrandsdalen valley, which a large number of Norway’s heritage-listed farms being here.

    Otta

    In the higher part of the Gudbrandsdlaen valley is the town of Otta. It is the next major town after Lillehammer, and you can find out more via our travel guide. 

    Otta Travel Guide

    Sel Church

    Sel Church is a historic wooden church dating back to 1742. It is not the first church on the site, though. It is believed that the first church here was a wooden stave church built in the 13th century. However, the church has since been rebuilt twice due to the older ones deteriorating.

    Sel

    Sel is a small village with a population of 437. Sel was the main town in the region until Otta was built up around the time the Dovrebanen was completed in the area.

    In Sigrid Undset’s novel about Kristin Lavransdatter, the protagonist grows up at Jørundgard, a medieval farm. The movie was filmed on the property too. Unfortunately the property is now closed to the public.

    Dovre Municipality

    You are starting to get higher into Norway now! Dovre municipality gives its name to the railway line but also the Dovrefjell National Park. The coat-of-arms depicts a muskox. The animal is not native to Norway, but in 1932 ten were released near Dovre. Besides muskox, wild reindeer and wolverines also live in the municipality.

    People have lived at Dovre for around 6,000 years. In the Stone Age, they were primarily hunters and fishermen. Approximately 2000 years ago, the first farms were developed. Dovre is mentioned in the Norse Sagas when King Olav travelled through the area, forcing the locals to either become Christian or suffer death.

    After leaving Dovre, the path becomes more mountainous. As this is located on the Pilgrims Road, many mountain stations were established on the road to accommodate those crossing the mountains to Trondheim.

    Dovre Village

    Dovre is the administrative centre of the municipality. Close to Dovre is Budsjord Pilegrimsgården – hotell Dovre, a historic mountain farm and accommodations for travellers on the Pilgrims Road. The property is mentioned in documents from the 1400s, while the 17 protected buildings are from between the 17th and 19th centuries.

    Dombås

    Dombås is the next major town that you pass through and it is also an important meeting point between east and west. You can read more about Dombås on our travel guide. 

    Dombås Travel Guide

    Fokstugu Fjellstue

    On your left you will pass one of the historic mountain accommodations. The first accommodations on the site were constructed around 1120 by King Øystein Magnusson, wo wanted the pilgrims to have places to stay on their journey. While the farm has been rebuilt multiple times since then, pilgrims heading to Trondheim have always stayed there.

    Today the property is a sheep farm, and it does open in the summer for travellers who want to spend the night there. The farm is run by the 11th generation of the same family who have owned it.

    Hjerkinn

    Hjerkinn is in the Dovrefjell mountains and is one of the driest places in the country, with only 222 millimetres (8.7 inches) in annual precipitation. The train station is an impressive looking building. The Hjerkinn Station is Dovrebanens highest station at 1,017 metres above sea level.

    Hjerkinn is an old rest station with traditions dating back to the 13th century, when pilgrims would travel through the area.

    Trøndelag County

    You now cross into Trøndelag county. 

    Oppdal Municipality

    Oppdal is the first municipality you drive through in Trøndelag. This is a mountainous municipality, with large parts of it in the Dovrefjell. Østfjella and Trollheimen mountains. This is represented in the coat-of-arms.

    125 years ago, Oppdal was a purely agricultural community where the people produced practically everything they needed themselves. Today agriculture is still a significant industry. The sheep industry in Oppdal is the largest in the country with 45,000 sheep here.

    Kongsvoll Mountain Lodge

    Kongsvoll is another historic mountain lodge. The original inn was built in the 12th century, while the oldest parts of the lodge date back to the 18th century.

    Nearby is the Kongsvoll Alpine Garden, run by Trondheim’s university. This is the only alpine botanical garden in Scandinavia.

    Oppdal

    Oppdal is a major town and the administrative centre for the municipality. 

    Oppdal Travel Guide

    Rennebu Municipality

    Rennebu is a mostly mountainous municipality. The coat of arms shows the outline of the local church, Rennebu Church, which is one of the oldest churches in Norway based on a Y-shaped outline. The Trollheimen and Forollhogna National Parks lie in the municipality and the salmon river Orkla flows through it.

    Berkåk

    Berkåk is a small village with a population of around 959. The name comes from the word birch, referring to a prominent type of tree in the area. Every year in August, the Rennebumartnan is hosted in town. It is a sales exhibition for home improvement and handicrafts with around 20,000 visitors.

    Mitre Gauldal

    Mitre Gauldal is primarily an agricultural municipality. Every third person living here works in agriculture. Milk, poultry and eggs are produced here. The coat-of-arms shows a silver crossed Y figure on a green background. The crossed Y has several meanings. First, it symbolises the landscape which is based on the meeting of the two valleys here (Gauldal and Soknedal). The municipality also has a major Y-shaped road and railway junction. Lastly, the Budal Church, dating from 1745, is one of the oldest and few remaining Y-shaped churches in the country.

    Soknedal

    Soknedal is a small village located by the river Sokna.

    Støren

    Støren is the administrative centre of Mitre Gauldal municipality. It is located in the Gauldalen valley where the Gaula and Sokna rivers meet. The Dovrebanen and the Rørosbanen meet here as well.

    Melhus Municipality

    Melhus is the last municipality you pass through before Trondheim. Agriculture is important here, and the valleys are dominated by grain fields. The coat-of-arms symbolise a man called Einar Tambarskjelve, a famous chieftain and archer from Melhus in the 11th century. The entire area of Melhus was known during the Viking Age. It was the site of the first farm Rimul at which Jarl Haakon was killed by his slave, Tormod Kark. Archaeological excavations in the area have uncovered discoveries from the Viking Age. Additionally, 3,000 year old graves have been found.

    Melhus

    Melhus is the administrative centre of the municipality. Melhus is home to the Rimul farm, which is known from the Viking Age. It was the scene of the murder of Håkon Sigurdsson by his slave Tormod Kark, as described in the Saga of King Olav. The farm is still in operation today.

    Hakon had a mistress called Thora at the Rimul farm. Hakon and his slave were seeking shelter in hiding from Olav Tryggvason (founder of Trondheim) and his men, who were at the time searching for him. Thora led them to a pig sty beneath a great stone. Later, after killing the Earls son, Olav Tryggvason arrived at Rimul with a group of local farmers, now supporting him. The story continues in the Norse Sagas:

    Then Olaf held a speech out in the farm, he went up unto a great rock lying near the pig sty. Olaf spoke, and in his speech he said he would reward any man richly who could harm Hákon Earl. The Earl and Kark heard this speech. They had light where they lay. The Earl said: “Why are you so pale, yet sometimes black as dirt? It is not so that you wish to harm me?” “No,” says Kark. “We were born on the same night,” says the Earl. “Close will also our deaths be.”

    Lying in the pig sty at night, Kark killed Hakon. He brought the head to Olav, hoping to collect a reward. Unfortunately, Olav did not respect a slave murdering his own lord. Tormod Kark was himself decapitated. Both heads were put on stakes at Munkholmen for people to spit at.

    Trondheim Municipality

    You now cross into Trondheim municipality, the last municipality for the drive. 

    Trondheim

    You have made it to Trondheim, Norway’s third-largest city. You can read more about Trondheim via our travel guide below. 

    Trondheim Travel Guide

    Continue the drive

    Mo i Rana to Trondheim on the E6

    Continue your drive along the E6 up to the Arctic Circle and Mo i Rana. 

    Mo i Rana to Trondheim

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Oslo, Walking Guides

    Oslo’s Grønland Neighbourhood: Self-Guided Walking Tour

    Oslo’s Grønland Neighbourhood: Self-Guided Walking Tour

    Grønland is an area in Oslo with quite the reputation. It is known across the country for its high immigrant population, higher crime levels compared to the rest of the country, but also cheap markets and restaurants. Some people love Grønland while others call it a no-go zone.

    I love how different Grønland feels compared to the rest of Oslo. But – as a history nerd – I love the history of Grønland. Grønland grew up as a peasants neighbourhood on the main access road to historic Christiania. Many of its old buildings still remain, and we can see them on this walk.

    So – I recommend doing this walk. You’ll see the diversity of Grønland, the history of the neighbourhood, and pass some very unique buildings in Oslo’s city centre. 

    Oslo Travel Guide

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    • Information about points of interest
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    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
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    Grønland Self-Guided Walking Tour

    This walk begins at Vaterlandsparken. 

    Vaterland

    Vaterlandsparken is located behind the Radisson Blu Hotel and Oslo Bus Terminal. 

    Vaterland is a very old and interesting neighbhourhood. The name is actually a Dutch word (for Waterland) as Dutch schooners began coming here to load timber that had been floated down in the river. They first started coming here in the 17th century. 

    Vaterland Bridge

    The bridge that you are crossing was originally built in 1654, though it was rebuilt in the 1830s. The bridge was first painted in 1685, when this area was a richly populated area with a lot of businesses operating. In 1868, there were 11 pubs here. Here is a painting of the bridge from 1685. We are looking down the Akers River out to the Oslofjord, so you will be crossing the bridge from right to left in this picture. 

    Apotek Hjorten & Workers Housing

    This beautiful building was built as a pharmacy in 1857 and was the fifth pharmacy to be built in Christiania. Today the building is used by the restaurant Dattera til Hagen but the interior of the pharmacy has been preserved over at the Folkemuseum in Oslo. Number 12, the brick building next to it, was built by the Company for the Construction of Workers Housing and is Oslo’s oldest preserved workers dwellings. 

    Grønland Square

    Grønland Square was established in the 1860s as a cattle square, where farmers would bring their cattle in for sale. Today most of the square is gone as those apartment buildings were constructed in 1989. The square today is something of a market with good fruits and vegetables for sale at prices somewhat cheaper than the rest of Oslo. Locals know that the bars around here have some of the cheapest beer in the city. 

    Across the street, you’ll notice some older buildings including some wooden ones. 

    Asylet

    Asylet is across the street from the square and has a cultural heritage blue plaque on it. 

    The building was built for a merchant around 1730 but was expanded in 1798. The house became a childrens asylum between 1839 and 1865. ‘Asylum’ means something different in Norway; it operated very similar to an orphange. Children could get a basic education here and be sponsored by the more well-off in town. The building was a so-called ‘rescue institution for abandoned, neglected and morally depraved children of both sexes’.

    Intercultural Museum

    The Intercultural Museum is a fitting museum for this neighbourhood. The goal is to promote intercultural understanding and respect. The building used to be a police station, which also draws interesting connections. The permanent exhibition documenting the history of immigration in Norway and the cultural changes from the last few decades is very interesting. There are rotating exhibitions of artwork from people with different nationalities that are housed inside the old prison cells. The Intercultural Museum won the prize for the best Norwegian museum in 2006. 

    Grønlandsleiret

    The name of the road we are walking on now changes to Grønlandsleiret. Grønlandsleiret is the old road that connects Christiania with Gamle Oslo. The road was paved in the 19th century with the remains of Hallvards Cathedral, a medieval cathedral that was damaged by fire and abandoned when the city was moved.

    There are some lovely historic buildings along Grønlandsleiret. 

    Tøyengata

    Tøyengata is a well-preserved street with many buildings from the 1800s.

    The homes were renovated in 1982. Before then the homes were uninsulated and it was common for water to freeze in the pipes in the winter. Rats were also often seen on the street, and you had to turn off the heating to have enough electricity to cook.Now many of them are small businesses but it gives a nice look at what houses here used to look like.

    If you want to walk down, there are some interesting houses.

    Number 10 was considered a ‘rural house’ when it was built around 1827. In 1865, it was documented that 27 people were living in the house. It was owned by labourer Johan Jensen who lived there with his wife and four children plus a ship’s stoker, a widow who sold beer, a shoemaker, a sailor, and other various craftsmen.

    The stateliest house on the street is number 24, which was built in 1825 for the sailor Rasmus Hansen and ship carpenter Ole Abrahamsen. The building was expanded to have a second floor in 1857 and in 1865 it was documented that 37 people lived in the house.

    Olympen Restaurant

    Known as ‘Lompa’ by the locals, Olympen is a well-preserved historic beer hall that has been in operation since 1892. The building itself is a little older; in 1872 it was a warehouse that was fitted with a bowling alley. Schous Brewery bought the building in 1892 and since then it has operated as a beer hall. Restaurant operations began in 1912. It is highly recommended to go here for a drink or for a meal. Just look at the interior – it is so well preserved!

    Norwegian Fire Museum

    The building that today houses the Oslo Fire Museum is the old Grønland Fire Station. The Grønland Fire Station opened in 1866, though it has been rebuilt several times. The building has also been changed when they transitioned from using horses to using vehicles. Stables are still inside the building, though. The fire station closed in 1978. There are several vintage fire trucks parked in the window. 

    Inside the complex are also two organisations called ‘the Substance Abuse Agency’ and ‘Uteseksjonen’, both of which aim to prevent drug abuse. 

    Grønland Church

    Next to the fire museum is Grønland Church. The church was built in 1869 out of brick in the neo-Romanesque style. It has 800 seats, making it one of the larger churches in Norway. It is the largest church in Oslo. However, it has one of Oslo’s lowest membership numbers. After all, it is a Lutheran church in a mostly Muslim neighbourhood. 

    The church is often nicknamed ‘the cathedral of the east end’. 

    Oslo Prison

    Oslo Prison is one of the largest prisons in the country with approximately 250 inmates. The building itself is historic; it was built in the 1840s and opened as a prison in 1851. It used the Philadelphia system, which meant that prisons were kept in isolation in solitary cells. The idea was that it would make them repent their sins and they wouldn’t be negatively influenced by other prisoners.

    The oldest building, Division A,  closed in 2017, while Division B and C still operate. Division C is for inmates with substance abuse problems who want to use their sentence to change their habits. 

    Oslo Police House

    Oslo Prison is one of the largest prisons in the country with approximately 250 inmates. The building itself is historic; it was built in the 1840s and opened as a prison in 1851. It used the Philadelphia system, which meant that prisons were kept in isolation in solitary cells. The idea was that it would make them repent their sins and they wouldn’t be negatively influenced by other prisoners.

    The oldest building, Division A,  closed in 2017, while Division B and C still operate. Division C is for inmates with substance abuse problems who want to use their sentence to change their habits. 

    World Islamic Mission

    This is the Norwegian branch of the World Islamic Mission. It was established in October 1984 by Norwegian Muslims with a Pakistani background. 

    The walls of the building are decorated with tiles from Iran and Spain, and the tiling was mostly done by Iranian craftsmen. The caligraphy is from the Koran and is a central motif both on the facade and on the wall in front of the main hall.

    This is one of Norway’s largest Muslim congregations with 5000 members. 

    Thanks for coming!

    I hope you enjoyed this walk around Grønland. Be sure to check out one of the eateries before leaving – this is where you find the good, spicy and cheap meals!

    Oslo Travel Guide
  • Aurland, Flåm, Hallingdal, Hønefoss, Lærdal, National Highways, Oslo, Road-trips

    Drive it Yourself: Oslo to Aurland via Hemsedal & Borgund Stave Church

    Drive it Yourself: Oslo to Aurland via Hemsedal & Borgund Stave Church

    There are many different ways to get between Oslo & Aurland, but this one is arguably the quickest. It doesn’t follow the one major highway the entire way, so it’s also a good way to mix it up a little. While the scenery might not be as dramatic as the other ways to get to the west from Oslo, it is an easy drive with some interesting places to stop along the way. 

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    The drive: E6 between Oslo and Aurland

    Oslo

    This drive begins in Norway’s capital, Oslo. You can find a detailed guide to Oslo on the travel guide section of the page below. 

    Oslo Travel Guide

    Hole Municipality

    The municipality is located around the woodland of Oslo as well as the Tyrifjord (which is a lake). The soil is very fertile here and is suited to growing fruit, berries, and other agricultural products.

    The coat-of-arms show four gold crowns to symbolise the four Norwegian Kings who lived in the municipality: King Halfdan the Black, King Sigurd Syr, King Olav Haraldsson (St. Olav) and King Harald Hårdråde. As you can imagine, this is a very historic area. There are archaeological finds from the Roman and Migration periods, and it is known as one of the traditional landscapes in the Viking Age and plays a prominent role in the Norse sagas.

    There are a few historic churches in the area. Stein Church, now in ruins, was constructed in the latter half of the 1100s. Bønsnes Church is a medieval church from 1100 and is still standing today. Hole church is from around 1200 and sits on a hill overlooking the Tyrifjord.

    Hole is part of the traditional region of Ringerike. Ringerike is associated with the most notable kings in Norwegian history. It has also given its name to a style of animal art, first discovered on runestones in Ringerike.

    Tyrifjord

    Lake

    Tyrifjorden is a lake in the traditional region of Ringerike. It is Norway’s fifth largest lake. It Is around 26km long and has an average depth of 93 metres. It used to be part of the sea, and there are many finds from that time. It is one of the reasons it was popularly settled around by the Vikings.

    The lake is one of the country’s richest lakes in terms of species. Several areas directly adjacent to the fjord have conservation value due to their unique flora and fauna. The slopes and flats around the lake are fertile and the mild climate means that intensive agriculture is carried out around the lake.

    Free fishing without a licence is based on tradition and custom. The Tyrifjorden has brown trout, crayfish, and pike. The crayfish population is the largest in Norway. Perch can also be caught here. The lake is also used as drinking water for the surrounding areas.

    It is not a fjord by English definitions. Norwegians commonly use the word ‘fjord’ to mean any body of water; many lakes are known as fjords in Norway.

    Sundvollen

    Village

    Sundvollen is a small village located along the Tyrifjorden. Sundvollen is known for its hotels; Sundvolden hotel is one of Norway’s oldest hotels. It was first mentioned in written sources in 1648. Another hotel, Kleivstua Hotel, is an inn that catered to travellers along the Old Royal Bergen Road, the historic road between east and west. The road also formed the pilgrim’s road between Oslo and Trondheim.

    Ringerike Municipality

    Ringerike is a historic region with some of Norway’s earliest kings coming from here. It is believed that the first kingdoms of Norway settled around the Tyrifjorden, hence the name Ringerike (The Old Norse name was Hringariki; hringr means ‘ring’ and riki means ‘kingdom). The first permanent settlements were here between 3000 and 2000 BC.

     Ringerike is one of the medium-sized urban municipalities in Norway and is the largest forestry industry municipality in the country. Considerable agriculture is also carried out here.

    Hønefoss Municipality

    We are passing by the town of Hønefoss. The town is built around a waterfall called Hønefossen (foss=waterfall) and grew in relation to the timber industry. Sawmills were placed along the waterfall to utilise its power. The last half of the 19th century brought significant development for the town. The connection to Drammen via railway in 1868 was important for the town.

    Flå Municipality

    Flå is the southernmost part of the traditional Hallingdal valley. Flå is known around Norway for Bjørneparken, which is a park with bears, moose, dear, wolves, foxes and lynx. Flå is also the birthplace of Olav Thon, who went on to become one of the richest men in Norway with his chain of hotels.

    Agriculture is the most important industry in Flå, though the timber industry is also important. The production on the farms is forest and grain, often with sheep and sometimes llamas as well. There are many cabins in the area as it is a popular spot to hunt for deer. Fishing is also organised in several area, and you can buy a licence at most petrol stations.

    Nesbyen Municipality

    Nesbyen municipality is part of the Hallingdal valley. Ancient trading routes went to Western Norway through the Valdres and Hallingdal valleys and then down to Røldal and Odda. The area here was originally populated by migrants from the west.

    Nesbyen has a boreal climate with warm summers and cold winters. The 20th of June 1970, Nesbyen recorded the all-time high in Norway at 35.6C (96.1F). Nesbyen also has a record cold temperature for the area at -38C. There is an old meteor crater just north of Nesbyen. About 650 million years ago, a 200-300 metres meteorite struck this area. This resulted in a 5km impact crater.

    Nesbyen

    Nesbyen is a small town with around 2,100 people living here. The village centre is surrounded by farms as agriculture is an important industry here.

    Hallingdal

    Hallingdal is one of the major valleys of eastern Norway. The valley is V-shaped and is drained by the Hallingdal River that comes in from the Hardangervidda plateau. Hallingdal is one of Norway’s busiest valleys as Highway 7 and the Bergen to Oslo train run through the valley.

    The valley has been an important trading valley for thousands of years. In the early years, Hallingdal prospered from trading with iron and trading routes developed throughout the Iron Age. Hallingdal farmers also traded cattle. The valley is characterised by its livestock farming, especially wool, dairy and eat production.

    Hallingdal is known for its unique art and music culture. Hallingdal has developed its own style of rosemaling with a distinct symmetrical style. The music of Hallingdal is traditionally dominated by the hardanger fiddle. The dance tunes have a distinct pattern, following three different lines of tradition. The Halling is the name of an old folk dance that is used in Norway. Each dancer is alone, and the climax of the dance is known as thrown Halling, where the goal is to kick down a hat from a stick.

    Hallingdal Travel Guide

    Gol Municipality

    Gol is a small settlement with around 3,200 people living here. It is the trading, service, and communication centre for the municipality.

    Gol used to have a stave church, called the Gol Stave Church. The church was from around 1216, but in the 1870s it was too small for the congregation. It was bought by King Oscar II’s Collections – later the Norwegian Folk Museum that’s now the open-air museum in Oslo. A new church was built in Gol.

    Gol has now built a kid’s park called Gordarike, which is inspired by Norse mythology and the Vikings. They have built a replica of the Gol Stave Church as a highlight of the park.

    Hemsedal Municipality

    Nesbyen municipality is part of the Hallingdal valley. Ancient trading routes went to Western Norway through the Valdres and Hallingdal valleys and then down to Røldal and Odda. The area here was originally populated by migrants from the west.

    Nesbyen has a boreal climate with warm summers and cold winters. The 20th of June 1970, Nesbyen recorded the all-time high in Norway at 35.6C (96.1F). Nesbyen also has a record cold temperature for the area at -38C. There is an old meteor crater just north of Nesbyen. About 650 million years ago, a 200-300 metres meteorite struck this area. This resulted in a 5km impact crater.

    Trøym

    Town

    Trøym is the administrative centre of Hemsedal. Most people (myself included) mistakenly call the village Hemsedal because it has all the main services for the municipality. For example, we are passing Hemsedal Church from the 1880s. The old stave church used to be here.

    Hemsedalsfjellet

    Mountain Range

    Shortly after leaving Trøym, you will cross the Hemsedalsfjellet Mountain Range over into Western Norway. The road can close in winter. 

    Lærdal Municipality

    Lærdal is a municipality in western Norway. It has a relatively dry climate, with around 600mm of rain a year. Agriculture is one of the biggest industries here. The lower part of the valley has one of the country’s best climactic conditions for growing vegetables.

    The river running through Lærdal is called the Lærdal River and is known as the ‘Queen of the Salmon rivers’ because it is one of Norway’s most famous salmon rivers. In the valley, you can hunt deer, reindeer, and elk.

    Lærdal is an important place historically. It has been inhabited for 6,000 years and has always been on the main road between east and west in southern Norway. Originally the road was a footpath. In 1647, Kongevegen was built as a more modern road, and then in the 1840s it was upgraded to Den Bergenske Hovedvei. You can still see remains of Kongevegen in Lærdal municipality; today it is a hiking path.

    Borgund Stave Church

    Located close to the main highway is Borgund Stave Church, one of the 28 remaining stave churches in Norway. 

    Borgund Stave Church

    Lærdal

    Town

    This has been an important trading place since the Middle Ages. Lærdal sits on the Sognefjord, which goes approximately halfway into the country between the coast and the Swedish border. Therefore, it has always been preferred to travel by sea. Lærdal developed as a natural marketplace because of its position along the fjord. Coastal farmers brought herring and fish and exchanged goods with the mountain farmers who came from the Hallingdal and Valdres valleys.

    Historic wooden houses survive in Lærdal today that are connected to this historic marketplace.

    Lærdal Travel Guide

    Aurlandsfjellet

    If you are travelling in summer and don’t want to drive through the long tunnel, you can take the scenic detour on the Aurlandsfjellet Tourist Road. Allow an extra hour or so to do the drive, but it is well worth it!

    You can find our guide to Aurlandsfjellet below. 

    Aurlandsfjellet Tourist Road

    Lærdal Tunnel

    Tunnel

    The Lærdal Tunnel is 24.5km (15.2 mi) long. It is the longest road tunnel in the world. Construction started in 1995 and the tunnel opened in 2000, costing around 1 billion NOK ($113 million USD).

    The design of the tunnel takes into consideration the mental strain for the drivers, so the tunnel is divided into four sections, separated by three large mountain caves. The caves have blue lighting with yellow lights at the fringes to give an impression of sunrise. The caves are meant to break the routine.

    There are no emergency exits. Emergency phones are every 250m. There are also 15 turning areas in case of an accident. High air quality is achieved through ventilation and purification.

    Aurland Municipality

    People have lived off hunting and fishing in Aurland for thousands of years. Farming started around 2,000 years ago and agriculture is still an important industry here. Tourism is also emerging in importance as Aurland is home to the famous Flåm village as well as Gudvangen.

    In the village of Aurland you’ll find Vangen Church, a medieval stone church from 1202. It is built in the early Gothic style influenced by English architecture. The fact that they used stone as a building material indicates how important Aurland was as a town.

    Flåm

    Our drive concludes in Flåm, one of the most popular places in Norway for tourism. If you want somewhere a little quieter, you can choose to stay in Aurland instead. 

    You can find our travel guide for Flåm below. 

    Flåm Travel Guide

    Where to Go From Here

    Flåm is perfectly located to continue your road-trip. You can either take the ferry over to Balestrand and continue from there, or you can continue on to Bergen. 

    Flåm to Bergen on the E16
    Bergen to Balestrand
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    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Norway, Oslo, Walking Guides

    Oslo City Centre: Self-Guided Walking Tour

    Oslo City Centre: Self-Guided Walking Tour

    Oslo is the perfect city for walking. The city is compact; it’s easy to get from one side to the other in less than half an hour. I find Oslo one of the most interesting cities in Norway to wander. 

    When I hear people talk about Oslo, they often mention that it’s a lot more modern than they’d expect. That’s certainly true; it doesn’t have the historic wooden buildings you find in Bergen or Trondheim, and neither does it have the beautifully decorated buildings you find in Stockholm and Copenhagen. Maybe that’s why many choose to skip extensively exploring Oslo. Most just go to the museums and then leave.

    I think there’s a lot to be discovered in Oslo by walking. In my previous self-guided walk for Oslo, which focused on the old town Christiania, I found so many hidden treasures of the old city.

    This walk, however, is definitely the beaten path. Focusing primarily on Karl Johans Gate, the main pedestrian street, you’ll feel the crowds and tourists here. However, rather than focus on shops and eateries, here I’ve tried to pull out and find the historic buildings that can be found in this part of the city.

    Here’s my self-guided walk for Oslo city centre. 

    In this article...

    Oslo Travel Guide

    You can find a detailed overview of Oslo, including practical, historic and travel information on our dedicated travel guide page. 

    Oslo Travel Guide

    Downloadable Version of This Guide

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided walks on our online store. 

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    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
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    • Information about facilities along the way

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
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    • Facilities including supermarkets, toilets, petrol, hotels, cafes, restaurants with addresses.

    Start: Oslo Opera House

    This walk begins outside one of the most famous buildings in Oslo: the opera house. The Oslo Opera House opened in 2008 and quickly won awards for its architectural beauty. The building is covered in white granite and white Italian marble, while the interior is primarily in oak to bring warmth to the space.

    The building is designed so you can walk up the roof.

    It is possible to take a guided tour inside the opera house, and I highly recommend it.

    Behind the opera house you’ll see the new Munch Museum peaking out. 

    Deichman Library

    This is Oslo’s brand-new library: it opened in October 2020. The library brand, Deichman, is actually the oldest public library in Norway. The name comes from businessman and collector Carl Deichman, who gave his private collection of books for public use in Oslo. The first Deichman library opened in 1785.

    The decision to build a new library building came in 2001, but it took some time to find the location and decide on the building style. The old Deichman building is close to where the 2011 terrorist attack happened. 

    Oslo Central Station

    We are now at Oslo Central Station. The station is built on the site of the older Oslo East Station. In total, there are 19 tracks with connections to all over Norway as well as Sweden.

    The first railway in Norway was the Hovedbanen between Oslo and Eidsvoll. A temporary station was built in Oslo while pans were made to design a better building. The population in Oslo was growing quick (it doubled to 150,000 between 1875 and 1890), so a large building was needed. The older part of the station that you see is part of this expansion and is the old Oslo East Station. Today the older part of the building is called Østbanehallen (East Railway Hall) and is a food hall and shopping mall.

    Palehaven

    The name of this square you see in front of the station is Palehaven or ‘Christian Frederiks Plass’. This name connects to the older city of Oslo, Christiania (covered on a separate walking tour). Christian Frederik was the Danish-Norwegian crown prince who attempted to become the independent King of Norway after the end of the Danish Union in 1814. However, Norway was promised to Sweden, so the country became part of the Swedish Union instead.

    The garden originally belonged to the Palace, the country’s first royal residence in recent times, and Christian Frederick was the first king to live here. The garden was laid out in the 18th century and the old Palace building was completed in 1848. The garden was known for its large collection of crops, but very little of it remains today. Few pictures of it exist.

    You can view old photos of it here: https://no.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pal%C3%A9et

    The Tiger Statue

    The Tiger of Oslo is a famous monument outside the Central Station. In the 19th century Oslo earned the nickname ‘The Tiger City’ from a poem called Sidste Sang by Bjørnstjerne Bjørnson, which describes a fight between a horse and a tiger. The horse represented the safe countryside, while the tiger represents the dangerous city. For many Norwegians travelling into the capital from the country, Oslo must’ve felt like a loud, strong, and potentially dangerous place!

    The statue was gifted to Oslo for their 1000-year anniversary in 2000.

    Behind Central Station (not visible from here) is the high immigrant neighbourhood called Grønland. It has lots of great restaurants with cuisines from all over the world. However, Grønland has also been the subject of debate due to its almost ghetto-like status. The existence of Grønland divides public opinion; some love the diversity, while others don’t like how crime-ridden it has become.

    Amerikalinjen Building

    The building you see here is the old Norwegian America Line Headquarters. This was a Norwegian liner company founded in 1910 to operate ships between Norway and the USA. The company was established to assist in the mass emigration to the United States, operating between Norway and New York. Eventually the company also had ships going from Norway to Canada. After World War II, the company was primarily involved in cruise traffic but was eventually sold off into other companies and no longer exists today.

    The building has been transformed into a high-end boutique hotel called Amerikalinjen.

    Karl Johans Gate

    Karl Johan gate is the main boulevard that links Central Station with the Royal Palace. It is named after the French General Jean-Baptiste Bernadotte, who took the Swedish name Karl Johan during the Napoleonic Wars. He became the Crown Prince of Sweden in 1810 and then was the King of Sweden and Norway between 1818 and 1848. 

    The street is a combination of several older streets.

    The eastern section, where we are now, was part of the old city of Christiania, while the wider western section was built during the 1840s as an avenue connecting the Royal Palace to the rest of the city.

    Most of the buildings on this end of the street are from the late 19th century.

    The street today is a little touristy, but there are some historic places along the street.

    As you enter Karl Johans Gate, one of the first shops you see to your right is Helly Hansen, the famous Norwegian outdoor wear brand.

    The Bazaars

    The Baazars were built in 1840-1859 in a neo-Romantic style. Before the bazaars were constructed, this is where the butchers would have their stalls. However, in the mid-19th century there was increasing demand to improve the hygiene conditions of the area. So it was decided to build 24 brick stalls. It was later expanded. At the beginning of the 20th century, there was a plan put forward to tear down the bazaars and build the Oslo Stock Exchange here. Eventually the plans were rejected, but this sparked one of the city’s earliest debates about demolition or preservation.

    Today you’ll find lots of restaurants and cafes in the bazaars. There are still some markets here.

    Oslo Fire Station

    The old Oslo fire station was built in the 1850s in a neo-Romanesque style and was planned to fit into the bazaars. It was the city’s first fire station; yes, it took that long to get a permanent fire station! The tower was used for drying hoses and also operated as a fire watch tower. However, it was too low so they used the Cathedral tower instead. The station was manned 24 hours a day until 1902, and Oslo’s main fire station was completed in 1939, making this one obsolete.

    Oslo Cathedral

    Oslo Cathedral is the main church for Oslo. It was built in 1697 (but rebuilt between 1848 and 1850) after the second church (in Christiania) burnt down. The cathedral is used by the Norwegian royal family and the Norwegian government for public events.

    Be sure to look on the corner of the church. Here you’ll see a stone from Oslo’s first cathedral; over 1000 years old. Unfortunately the cathedral no longer stands, but its ruins can be seen at Gamle Oslo (self-guided walk coming soon). If you look further up the tower, you’ll see small square windows. This is where the fire brigade had their watch.

    The stained glass windows in the choir are by Emanuel Vigeland (brother to famous sculptor Gustav Vigeland).

    Outside the cathedral is a memorial for the victims of the 2011 terrorist attack. 

    The cathedral is open during the day and is free to visit. 

    Stortorvet

    In the 17th century, when Oslo’s city wall was located here, this big square was where the farmers entered and sold their goods. Stortorvet was officially inaugurated in 1736 and was the main town market until 1869.

    Across the street is the restaurant Stortorvets Gjestgiveri. The building is from the 18th century and used to be an inn where travellers would rest before entering the city of Christiania. The street in front is called Grensen, which means ‘the border’. It’s where the old city wall used to be.

    Today it’s famous as a flower and produce market.

    The statue is of the Danish-Norwegian King Christian IV, who ruled Norway around 1600. He named the city after himself: Christiania.

    Egertorget

    This marks the point where the old and new sections of Karl Johans gate meet; you will notice there’s an almost bend in the road. Egertorget grew in the mid-19th century as a residential area after the two streets were connected.

    Here you’ll see the large Freia neon sign from 1911. This is Norway’s chocolate brand. Norwegians link of Freia as a ‘little piece of Norway’. There is a Freia shop along Karl Johans gate.

    Norwegian Parliament

    Norway’s Parliament building is from 1866 and almost seems to counter the Royal Palace at the other end of Karl Johans gate. If the flag is flying, parliament is in session. Today the king is a figurehead, and Norway is run by a unicameral parliament and prime minister.

    The name of the Parliament in Norwegian is Stortinget, an Old Norse word.

    It’s possible to take a guided tour of the parliament

    Grand Hotel & Cafe

    On the other side of Karl Johans Gate is the Grand Hotel, where the Nobel Peace Prize winner stays every year. Grand Hotel was established in 1874, but has undergone several renovations since then. The current appearance is from around 1915. 

    You can view old photos of Grand Hotel here. 

    Grand Café is an equally historic café and for many years this is where Oslo’s intellectual and creative elite would meet, perhaps most famously Henrik Ibsen. Inside the café is a mural showing all the regulars of Grand Café.

    Eidsvolls Plass

    The large park in front of the Parliament is called Eidsvolls Plass. ‘Eidsvoll’ refers to the town north of Oslo where the Constitution was written in 1814.

    The western part is nicknamed Spikersuppa by the locals after Christiania Spigerverk paid for a refurbishment in 1956. The area was originally a marsh area until the 1840s, when it was laid out in connection with the establishment of Karl Johans gate.

    On this stretch of Karl Johans gate you’ll see several beautiful buildings. These were built up in the mid-19th century as a place for the wealthy to live. Today they have been joined together and are a shopping mall.

    There are statues of many important Norwegians in the park, including Christian Frederik (the Danish crown prince who tried to be Norwegian King), Johan Sverdrup and Carl Joachim Hambro.

    Every Christmas they close the park and turn it into a Christmas Market.

    Close to the parliament you’ll see three public toilets painted to look like the French flag. This is a work of art called Liberte. On the roof are the slogans from the French Revolution: Liberty, Equality and Brotherhood. Inside the toilets, speakers play audio recordings of Franklin Roosevelt, Charles de Gaulle, and King Haakon VII.

    University of Oslo

    The University of Oslo is the first university building in Norway, dating from 1854.

    The paving of the square dates from 1931. The cobblestone pattern is characterised by neoclassicism, just like the University buildings. 

    During World War II, the square was used for parades and propaganda events by the Nazis.

    In the square is a statue of Professor Anton Martin Schweigaard, a lawyer, economist and politician who was a professor at the University for almost 30 years. He was elected to the Storting for almost 30 years and is described as one of the most important political and intellectual figures in Norway during the 19th century.

    Royal Palace

    Straight ahead we can see the Royal Palace. This Neoclassical building was completed in 1849 and is the residence of the Norwegian Royal Family. It is possible to visit inside with a guided tour.

    National Theatre

    The earliest theatre in Oslo is the Christiania Theatre, which was founded in 1829. However, the theatre we see today had its first performance in 1899. The theatre was a private institution until 1929, when the government started providing it with financial support.

    The theatre is often considered the home for the plays of Henrik Ibsen.

    Statues of Norway’s most famous playwrights – Ibsen and Bjørnsen – are outside the theatre.

    Underneath the theatre is one of the major train stations in Oslo: The National Theatre station. From here you can take the train or metro all over the city, and the buses from here go to Bygdøy.

    Oslo City Hall

    Construction for Oslo City Hall began in the 1930s. At the time, the dark brick was considered very on trend. However, the city hall construction was delayed during World War II, and by the time the city hall opened int he 1950s, it was considered a little old-fashioned. Today, the appearance of the building does divide opinion. Some say it looks like a block of brown cheese!

    Inside the city hall is a completely different feel. Leading artists designed different rooms, including Edvard Munch, and I highly recommend taking the time to walk around inside (free to do). 

    If you circle the inner part of the city hall (outside), you’ll seen wooden motifs representing the Old Norse sagas. Descriptions explain their meaning in English. 

    The city hall is where the Nobel Peace Prize is awarded every year. 

    Oslo Harbour

    The Oslo Harbour is a new development that forms part of the ‘Fjord City’ urban renewal project. Before this, it was a busy highway.

    Facing the water, if you look to the right you’ll see the Nobel Peace Centre and the National Museum. The waterfront buildings form Aker Brygge, an area with very hip bars and restaurants. At the end of Tjuvholmen, an art district with some of the most expensive apartments in Oslo. 

    To the left, you’ll see Akershus Fortress. 

    End of the Walk

    If you want to continue your walk, Turn left and follow the main road. You’ll end up at Christiania Square, where you can begin our Christiania walking tour. Or you can visit Akershus Fortress and do our Akershus walking tour. 

    Oslo Travel Guide

    You can find a detailed overview of Oslo, including practical, historic and travel information on our dedicated travel guide page. 

    Oslo Travel Guide
  • Oslo

    Visiting the Vigeland Park in Oslo

    Visiting the Vigeland Park in Oslo

    No trip to Oslo is complete without a visit to the Vigeland Sculpture Park. After all, it is the most visited attraction in Norway, attracting up to two million visitors a year. The images of the various sculptures under different light and different seasons cover the tourist brochures, and Instagram is full of people posing outside their favourite statue.

    But what is the park? Is it worth visiting? Let’s discuss the history of importance of the park first, and then we’ll look into the practical information.

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    In this article...

    What is the Vigeland Park?

    The Vigeland Sculpture Park is a permanent collection of sculptures made by Gustav Vigeland between 1924 and 1943. The park is around 43 hectares and the sculpture garden is the world’s largest sculpture park made by a single artist. It is listed on the Heritage Act as the first park in Norway.

    History of the Park

    Frogner Park

    The name of the park is not Vigeland park but Frogner Park; the name Vigeland Park is commonly used by tourists, while the correct name Frogner Park is used by locals.

    In the 18th century this was the private property of General Hans Jacob Scheel, who lived at Frogner Manor. He had the land landscaped into a baroque park. In the 19th century, industrialist Benjamin Wegner took over and landscaped it into a romantic park.

    Frogner Manor still stands today and is now the Oslo City Museum. The building is impressive and worth taking a look at; it is in the Danish country house style and goes back to the 1750s.

    Wegner also had some buildings built around the property. The pavilion was built on the nearby height ‘Utsikten’ (The View) and he also had the coachman house built at the main gate in front of the manor house. The pavilion is worth seeing; the ceiling is impressively painted to resemble the Pantheon in Rome.

    Becoming Vigeland's Park

    After Norway’s independence in 1905, Oslo underwent major expansion and many farms were bought so apartments could be built. Large parts of Frogner Estate were sold so the city could expand. The remaining estate was bought by the municipality so it could be made into a public park for sports and recreation.

    The land was given to Gustav Vigeland in the 1920s and has been known as the Vigeland Park ever since it became open to the public in the 1940s.

    Vigeland Park Children

    Who Was Gustav Vigeland?

    Gustav Vigeland (1869 – 1943) was born as Adolf Gustav Thorsen into a family of craftsmen. While he initially went to school in Oslo to learn wood carving, the sudden death of his father meant that he had to go and live with his grandparents in the south of Norway. They lived on a farm called Mjunebrokka in Vigeland parish, and Gustav decided to change his name to represent this farm.

    Fun fact – Gustav Vigeland’s brother, Emanuel Vigeland, is a well-known artist and has a number of works around the city, including inside Oslo Cathedral.

    As an adult, Gustav returned to Oslo with the goal of becoming a sculptor. He got the attention of Brynjulf Bergslien and then spent several years travelling through Copenhagen, Paris, Berlin and Florence. In Paris he became greatly inspired by Auguste Rodin and frequented his workshop, while in Italy he experimented with ancient and Renaissance works. During this time the themes that would later dominate his inspiration – death and relationships – first appeared.

    Gustav returned to Norway and participated in the restoration of Nidaros Cathedral in Trondheim. There he became inspired by medieval works, especially the dragon as a symbol of sin but also as a nature force, fighting against man.

    Establishing his studio in Oslo

    Once back in Oslo, he settled in an abandoned studio and began working. After Norway’s independence in 1905, he was regarded as Norway’s best sculptor and began creating various statues and busts of renowned Norwegians like Henrik Ibsen.

    In 1921 the city of Oslo decided to demolish the studio where Vigeland was working. After some negotiations, Vigeland was granted a new building from where he could work. In return, he promised to donate all of his subsequent works to the city. Vigeland moved into his new studio in Frogner and spent the rest of his life dedicated to building the public park.

    Gustav lived and worked in his studio until his death in 1942. His ashes are still in the belfry of the building, which is on Nobels gate. The building where he worked became the Vigeland Museum, and his apartment on the third floor is still preserved.

    What to see in Vigeland Park

    The Main Gate

    The Main Gate consists of five large gates, two small pedestrian gates and two copper-roofed gates, both adorned with weather vanes. The gate was designed in 1926 and was financed by a Norwegian bank.

    The Bridge

    The Bridge was the first part to open to the public in the 1940s. The bridge is 100m (328ft) long, 15m (49ft) wide and connects the Main Gate to the Fountain. Along the bridge are 58 sculptures. The most famous sculpture, Angry Boy, is located here. At the end of the bridge you’ll find a woman being embraced by a dragon, while the man is fighting it. Vigeland wasn’t exactly a feminist; these sculptures represent a woman giving into sin while a man fighting against it.

    Vigeland Park Angry Boy

    The Fountain

    The fountain was originally supposed to be at Eidsvolls Plass in front of the parliament of Norway. There are 60 bronze reliefs around the lower part of the fountain, and these follow the circle of life. If you look at the fountain, you’ll see that the men are holding up the bowl at various difficulties, i.e. some are doing a lot of work while others are doing not much at all. This represents that life can be unfair and not everyone shares equal responsibility.

    Be sure to look down – the ground is black and white granite designed as a maze. It’s very popular with kids.

    Vigeland Park Fountain

    The Rose Garden

    Vigeland Park has the largest collection of roses in Norway, with 14,000 plants and 150 species. Many of them can be seen here.

    Vigeland Park Rose Garden

    The Monolith

    The Monolith Plateau is a platform north of the park. There are 36 groups of figures around the monolith, representing a ‘circle of life’ theme.

    Around the plateau you’ll find eight wrought iron gates; on one side all the figures are men, while on the other side they are women.

    The Monolith is the highest point in the park. Construction began in 1924 when Gustav Vigeland modelled it in clay inside his studio. The design process took ten months, after which the model was cast in plaster.

    In 1927, a singular block of granite from Halden was delivered to the studio. It took three masons fourteen years to carve the granite. The Monolith is 14.12 metres (46.32ft) high and is composed of 121 human figures rising slowly towards the sky.

    Vigeland Park Monolith

    The Sundial

    At the end of the installation is a sundial, forged in 1930, and the Wheel of Life sculpture.

    The Sculptures

    Vigeland Park Sculpture Detail

    Gustav Vigeland famously said “it’s only when you put clothes on people that you start defining their religion or where they are from. When you are naked you can be anyone, anywhere at any time”. For this reason, all the statues are naked.

    The goal of the sculptures is to depict life in all its strange and wonderful forms. They depict people engaging in various typically human pursuits, such as wrestling, dancing, hugging and holding hands. They reveal a full range of human emotions, including anger and violence.

    Practical Information

    When is the best time to go?

    The park gets very busy between around 11am and 3pm, so if you want a bit more peace and quiet I recommend going outside of these hours.

    How long should I spend there?

    You’ll need at least one hour to walk around the Vigeland portion of the park; more time if you want to see Frogner Park. If you want to visit the museums as well, I recommend 2-3 hours here.

    Do I need a tour guide?

    In a way, yes. There is no written information about the sculptures, and while the sculptures are meant to be interpreted by the viewer, the tour guides do an excellent job of explaining the thought process behind the sculptures, the troubled life of Gustav Vigeland, and why the park is laid out like this.

    How do I get there?

    • Take Tram 12 from Dronningens gate (or whichever stop is closest to you). Follow the tram towards Majorstuen and ride for 12 minutes (8 stops) until you reach Vigelandsparken. The stop is right outside the park.
      • To get back to the city, take Tram 12 towards Kjelås
    • You can take the metro lines 1, 2, or 5 from Central Station to the stop ‘Majorstuen’, and from there it’s a 15 minute walk to the park.

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