Gudbrandsdalen

  • Central Norway, Dombås, European Highways, Gudbrandsdalen, Hamar, Lillehammer, Oppdal, Oslo, Otta, Ringebu, Road-trips, Trondheim

    Drive it Yourself: Oslo to Trondheim on the E6

    Drive it Yourself: Oslo to Trondheim on the E6

    The E6 is the longest road that runs through Norway. Starting in Svinesund, on the Swedish border, it goes all the way to Kirkenes on the Russian border, stretching 2,576km.

    The busiest stretch of road, and the part that we cover here, is the stretch between Oslo and Trondheim. The E6 also follows the old Pilgrims Road that went from Hallvard Cathedral in Oslo to Nidaros Cathedral in Trondheim, and you will see many historic places associated with the old pilgrim’s road.

    This guide will start at the part of the E6 shortly after Oslo Airport, when you cross into Eidsvoll County.

    In this article...

    Downloadable Version of This Guide

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

    View at the Store

    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Information about facilities along the way

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the region & towns
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Facilities including supermarkets, toilets, petrol, hotels, cafes, restaurants with addresses.

    Oslo to Trondheim on the E6

    Oslo

    This drive begins just north of Oslo’s Gardermoen Airport, but you can learn more about Oslo via the travel guide below. 

    Oslo Travel Guide

    Eidsvoll Municipality

    The first municipality that you cross through after Oslo is Eidsvoll.

    The part ‘eid’ means “a road passing around a waterfall”, while ‘voll’ means “meadow” or “field”. The name therefore refers to the fact that people from the districts around the lake Mjøsa (you will see it later) were sailing down the river Vorma and people from Romerike were sailing up the river. They had to enter this area by passing the Sundfossen Waterfall. Because of this, the site has been an important meeting place long before the introduction of Christianity. The coat-of-arms depict a scale as a symbol of justice, representing the old court.

     

    Eidsvoll is mentioned in the Old Norse Sagas back to the 11th century. The sagas were a court and assembly for the eastern part of Norway mostly due to the lake and the river that served as a transport road. Historically the main industry was agriculture, despite the fact that there is a lot of clay in the soil.

    The town of Eidsvold in Queensland, Australia, and Eidsvold Township in Minnesota use the old spelling of the municipality. The current ‘Eidsvoll’ was adopted in Norway in 1918.

    Small Detour: Eidsvoll Town

    Eidsvoll is a historically important place in Norway. You must leave the E6 and take a small detour, but it is worth it. Eidsvoll Church is an old church from 1200 and is built in the Romanesque style. The church is located on the old Pilgrims Road and is one of the important stops along the way.

    Eidsvoll Verk (how it is written on Google Maps) refers to the smelt iron ore that King Christian IV of Denmark opened in 1624. He was relying on the excellent water power from the Andelva River. The smeltery was taken over by Kongsberg Silver Mines. Carsten Anker bought the works in 1794 and restored it, setting up the production of stoves and similar iron goods. He also took residence in Eidsvoll, building a manor house now known as Eidsvollsbygningen. The Eidsvoll Verk has closed, but the name still remains. The old mill can be seen in the town.

    In 1854, Eidsvoll became the end point for the first railroad line in Norway from Oslo.

    This is the site where the constitutional assembly met to draft and sign the Constitution of Norway on the 17th of May 1814. The building is considered to be one of Norway’s most important national monuments and the cradle of modern Norway. Today it is a museum. The home was lived in by Carsten Anker, owner of the iron works, lived here during the time when it was used to sign the constitution. He went bankrupt in 1822 and the ownership of the estate was transferred to British creditors. A group of private citizens led by Henrik Wergeland organised a fundraiser that allowed them to buy the building with the pavilion and surrounding garden. When the purchase was finalised, the group donated the property to the Norwegian estate.

    I will visit the building eventually and write a more detailed overview of it.

    Minnesund

    Minnesund is a small village on the southern tip of Lake Mjøsa at the place where the lake flows into the Vorma River. Minnesund is an old ferry pier and has always been important for travel and communications. 

    Lake Mjøsa

    Lake Mjøsa is the largest lake in Norway and the 35th largest in Europe. It is also Norway’s and Europe’s fourth-deepest lake with the greatest depth being 453 metres. Lake Mjøsa provides drinking water for up to 100,000 people.

    The area around the lake is one of the most fertile agricultural districts in Norway.

    The meaning of the word ‘Mjøsa’ is unknown.

    In summer the surface temperature averages between 13 and 16 degrees and up to 20 degrees deep in the Furnesfjorden. Parts of the lake freeze over in December. In January, almost all the lake is covered with ice and in particularly cold winters the entire lake can be covered with ice in February.

    Mjøsa is home to Norway’s largest inland fishery and is also one of the country’s most species-rich lakes. 21 fish species have been found in the lake, including perch, trout, pike and other species.

    The lake has also been an important transport and traffic artery, even when frozen. The lake is commonly mentioned in the Viking Sagas and the transport of goods on the lake was probably extensive and well organized in the Viking Age and Hamar’s heyday in the High Middle Ages. Salt, grain, iron, coffee, sugar and tobacco went north, while alcohol, glass, timber, ore, cheese, butter and grain went south. Steamships were launched on the lake in 1840 for better transport.

    Innlandet County

    You will now be driving through Innlandet County. 

    Stange Municipality

    Stange is the first municipality you will pass through in Innlandet county. There have been settlements here since well before the Viking Age. Because of the old transport route went along here, there has been trade and hospitality here since time immoral. Stange Church, with is in Stange village, is first mentioned in 1225 in Håkon Håkonssons saga. The current building is from 1250.

    Stange is one of the largest agricultural municipalities in Innlandet. Norway’s oldest agricultural school, Jønsberg High School, is located here. The high school teaches in nature management, agriculture, animal husbandry, forestry, and biology, as well as organic farming, mathematics and chemistry. The school was established in 1847. You will pass the school on your right shortly before going into Hamar.

    Espa

    Espa is a small village that saw fighting during World War II, when battles were fought between Norwegians and Germans to prevent the Germans from following the King as he fled Oslo. The Espa Servicesenter has become kind of (?) famous because it has sold a large number of buns in recent years, earning the nickname ‘bolle land’ . You can visit their website here: https://www.bolleland.no/

    Hamar Municipality

    Hamar municipality is named after the main town in the area – Hamar. We’ll cover Hamar next, but first lets talk about the coat-of-arms for the municipality. The coat-of-arms depict a Black Grouse sitting on top of a pine tree. The first version of this coat-of-arms was depicted in 1553

    Hamar

    Hamar is the first major town on the E6. It is also one of the major historic towns in Norway and was one of the powerful centres of Norway during the Viking and medieval times. 

    You can read our separate guide to Hamar below. 

    Hamar Travel Guide

    Ringsaker Municipality

    Ringsaker Municipality gets its name from the old Ringsaker Church. The coat-of-arms shows a moose; the image is taken from a pre-historic cave painting that has been found in the municipality. The area is mentioned in King Harald Hårfagres Saga as well as St. Olavs Saga when St. Olav was christening the area.

    Ringsaker is primarily an agricultural and lumbering region. 

    Brumunddal

    The town of Brumunddal (population 11,019) grew as a settlement with the establishment of the Dovre train line in 1894. The major industry in the town is agriculture and forestry. Close to Brumunddal is the Mjøsa Tower (Mjøstårnet), the world’s tallest wooden building. It is 18 floors and 85.4 metres high. 

    Rudshøgda

    Rudshøgda is best known as the childhood home of author, poet, playwright, songwriter and musician Alf Prøysen. Prøysenhuset is a cultural centre and museum honoring his memory. He wrote the very popular Mrs Pepperpot series of childrens books.

    Moelv

    The town of Moelv (population 4,459) was built around various mills that were utilising the power of the Moelva River. The largest industrial company here is Moelven Industrier, which is one of Scandinavia’s leading suppliers of building products.

    Rock carvings have been found in Moelv that can be traced back tot he Stone Age and are generally regarded as the best-preserved rock carvings in Norway. Additionally, the Ringsaker Church is located here. It was completed in the middle of the 12th century and is dedicated to St. Olav. 

    North of Moelv is Tovsteinsringen (The twelve-stone ring). This is an ancient stone circle that is often compared to Stonehenge (this one is much, much smaller). It is believed to have been the site of a burial ritual, likely for a wealthy, high-ranking person.

    Lillehammer Municipality

    Lillehammer Municipality is named after the major town of Lillehammer, your next detour. The name Lillehammer means “Little Hammer” and was developed as a new trading town on the Lake Mjøsa after Hamar, hence the name. The coat-of-arms depict a birkebeiner, a 12th-century civil war fighter, carrying a shield, who is skiing down a silver/white mountainside under a blue sky. The birkebieners carried the future King Haakon from Lillehammer to Rena on skis during the Civil War.

    There have been settlements here since the Iron Age and the market here was mentioned in Håkon Håkonssons saga in 1390. It was also believed to have a site for the Ting assembly. However, despite this history, Lillehammer was registered as a trading down in 1827.

    Lillehammer

    Lillehammer is the next major stop on the E6. There is so much to say about Lillehammer, so check out our separate travel guide page. 

    Lillehammer Travel Guide

    Øyer Municipality

    Øyer Municipality is the first municipality within the Gudbrandsdalen region. The coat-of-arms show a silver-coloured wooden ring on a green background. This is a type of ring that was historically made of wood and was used to fasten a tree trunk to a rope to haul it over the land. Similar devices were used all over Norway, but this shape was typical for the area.

    Øyer was one of the area’s most severely impacted by the Black Death in 1349-1350. It is believed that up to 75% of residents here died, and many of the farms were deserted until the late 17th century.

    Øyer is a farming and logging municipality, though recreation is increasingly through the ski centres.

    Tretten

    Tretten is a small village with a population of 860. In 2022, it made the news as the bridge that crosses the river completely collapsed. 

    Ringebu Municipality

    Ringebu municipality is located within the traditional Gudbrandsdalen region and has a population of 4,800. The largest and main settlement is the town of Ringebu. The coat-of-arms represents shows three flames, representing the three valleys and three parishes in the municipality.

    Ringebu

    Ringebu may be a small village, but it is home to Norway’s largest stave church. Read our travel guide below. 

    Ringebu Travel Guide

    Sør-Fron Municipality

    Sør-Fron Municipality is a small municipality in the Gudbrandsdalen valley. The coat-of-arms show a white or silver club on a green background. The club is reminiscent of the club that Kolbein Sterke used in 1021 when King Olav Haraldsson met the people of Fron and Dale-Gudbrand at Hundorp. The meeting is depicted in the Norse Sagas.

    The most important industries here are agriculture, industrial factories, and tourism.

    The famous play Peer Gynt is staged annually at Lake Gålå in the mountains around Sør-Fron. It is believed that Peer Gynt is set in the area.

    Hundorp

    Hundorp is the administrative centre of the municipality. Historically, Hundorp is a very important place. It was the centre of the petty kingdom of the Gudbrand Valley and as such an important place in terms of religion and politics.

    All this took place at Dale-Gudbrand’s farm. Dale-Gudbrand is a famous historic figure from the 1100s. He is mentioned in multiple Norse sagas, but most famously in the story of Olav the Holy christianising Gudbrandsdalen. You can read the story here. The image above is a drawing of Olav christianising the farmers. 

    Around the farm are five large grave mounds, though sadly one of them was removed. The four remaining are between 23 and 32 metres (75ft and 105ft). Additionally, there’s a square ring of stones and the remains of a round ring of stones, indicating a possible worshipping site.

    Today it is a Pilgrim Centre. There is a small farm shop with local food products and souvenirs. You can also spend the night there if you wish. Click here to visit their website. 

    Harpefoss

    Harpefoss is a small town with a population of 335. The name comes from the railway development in 1896, when the railway station was named Harpefoss. People have lived here for centuries, though, and old names were Skurdal and Ryssland. Harpefoss is the name of the waterfall that separates two hamlets.

    During the railway development, Harpefoss Hotel was built. It is the only hotel left that is one of the original hotels from the railway development period that still stands. It is built in Swiss style with neo-Gothic features. It has long since been closed down as a hotel, and after a period as a country store, the house is now a residence.

    In Harpefoss you can stay in a historic farm! 

    The farm ‘Sygard Grytting’ has belonged to the same family since the 14th century. The current owner is the 16th generation since the year 1534. 

    It’s believed that as far back as Christianity goes, pilgrims would stay at the property on their way towards Nidaros in Trondheim. Because of these, there are unusual details in some of the buildings that are very similar to details found in monasteries. 

    You can stay in historic houses from the 17th century – the same houses the pilgrims stayed in – or buildings from the 19th century. 

    The property is still a working farm. 

    Agriculture specialises in sheep, grain, grass production and forestry. In ancient times, the operation was very versatile and the farm was self-sufficient in most things.

    Sødorp Church

    Sødorp Church is a wooden cruciform church from 1752. It’s believed the first church on the site was a stave church, but it was replaced in 1570 and no trace of it remains today. In 1752, the church was replaced once again with the church we have today.

    Originally the church stood in Sødorp, a small town just south of Vinstra – hence its name. However, Vinstra emerged as a major town in the early 20th century, and it was decided to move the church there. In 1910, the church was moved to its present location. 

    The 18th century church originally had a very high tower, but it was destroyed by wind in 1850. The church then got a stumpy small tower (click here for a photo of it). When it was moved to Vinstra, they made a new high tower for the church. You can see photos of the construction process here, here, and its completion here. 

    Much of the interior is from the 18th century, including the altarpiece, pulpit, choir arch, crucifix and relief figures. The soapstone baptismal font is from the Middle Ages, though.

    In the graveyard you’ll find a memorial stone to the real Peer Gynt. 

    Nord-Fron Municipality

    Nord-Fron is a small municipality with a population of around 5,600. It is home to Skåbu, a village located 870m above sea level. It is Norway’s highest situated rural area with a permanent settlement. The coat-of-arms depicts a Dole Gudbrandsddal horse; the area has a long tradition of horse breeding and is one of the main centres in Norway.

    Kvam

    Kvam is probably most famous for the battles that took place here during World War II. During the military campaign in Norway in 1940, Kvam was the scene of a battle between German and British forces. During the battle, the original Kvam Church (from 1776) was destroyed, along with 70 houses. There is a whole Wiki page to the battles, which you will find here. 

    By Kvam Church is the Peace Park, which is a memorial to the locals killed during World War II. There are also memorials on Stølane (Kvamsfjellet) where Russian soldiers were shot by Germans, and on Hillingen where three Norwegian soldiers lost their lives in a battle against German troops.

    Kvam has a British military cemetery. There is also a museum about World War II, the Gudbrandsdal War Memorial Collection, in town.

    Remember the battle at Otta in 1612 between Norwegian peasants and the Scots? Well, after the battle 134 Scottish prisoners were taken from Otta to Kvam. At Klomstadlåven, most were killed in a massacre. The barn building where they were kept before they were massacred, was destroyed during World War II.

    Kvam currently has a population of 762. Most of the industry has closed down in the last few years.

    Sel Municipality

    Sel’s coat-of-arms depicts a girl playing a trumpet. This represents the local legend about the Prillar-Guri, where in 1612 a Scottish army marched through on its way to Sweden. They were stopped by the farmers at the Battle of Kringen, and legend says that the farmers were made aware of the army’s arrival by a local girl with a trumpet.

    Sel is regarded as one of the more scenic and historically significant areas of the Gudbrandsdalen valley, which a large number of Norway’s heritage-listed farms being here.

    Otta

    In the higher part of the Gudbrandsdlaen valley is the town of Otta. It is the next major town after Lillehammer, and you can find out more via our travel guide. 

    Otta Travel Guide

    Sel Church

    Sel Church is a historic wooden church dating back to 1742. It is not the first church on the site, though. It is believed that the first church here was a wooden stave church built in the 13th century. However, the church has since been rebuilt twice due to the older ones deteriorating.

    Sel

    Sel is a small village with a population of 437. Sel was the main town in the region until Otta was built up around the time the Dovrebanen was completed in the area.

    In Sigrid Undset’s novel about Kristin Lavransdatter, the protagonist grows up at Jørundgard, a medieval farm. The movie was filmed on the property too. Unfortunately the property is now closed to the public.

    Dovre Municipality

    You are starting to get higher into Norway now! Dovre municipality gives its name to the railway line but also the Dovrefjell National Park. The coat-of-arms depicts a muskox. The animal is not native to Norway, but in 1932 ten were released near Dovre. Besides muskox, wild reindeer and wolverines also live in the municipality.

    People have lived at Dovre for around 6,000 years. In the Stone Age, they were primarily hunters and fishermen. Approximately 2000 years ago, the first farms were developed. Dovre is mentioned in the Norse Sagas when King Olav travelled through the area, forcing the locals to either become Christian or suffer death.

    After leaving Dovre, the path becomes more mountainous. As this is located on the Pilgrims Road, many mountain stations were established on the road to accommodate those crossing the mountains to Trondheim.

    Dovre Village

    Dovre is the administrative centre of the municipality. Close to Dovre is Budsjord Pilegrimsgården – hotell Dovre, a historic mountain farm and accommodations for travellers on the Pilgrims Road. The property is mentioned in documents from the 1400s, while the 17 protected buildings are from between the 17th and 19th centuries.

    Dombås

    Dombås is the next major town that you pass through and it is also an important meeting point between east and west. You can read more about Dombås on our travel guide. 

    Dombås Travel Guide

    Fokstugu Fjellstue

    On your left you will pass one of the historic mountain accommodations. The first accommodations on the site were constructed around 1120 by King Øystein Magnusson, wo wanted the pilgrims to have places to stay on their journey. While the farm has been rebuilt multiple times since then, pilgrims heading to Trondheim have always stayed there.

    Today the property is a sheep farm, and it does open in the summer for travellers who want to spend the night there. The farm is run by the 11th generation of the same family who have owned it.

    Hjerkinn

    Hjerkinn is in the Dovrefjell mountains and is one of the driest places in the country, with only 222 millimetres (8.7 inches) in annual precipitation. The train station is an impressive looking building. The Hjerkinn Station is Dovrebanens highest station at 1,017 metres above sea level.

    Hjerkinn is an old rest station with traditions dating back to the 13th century, when pilgrims would travel through the area.

    Trøndelag County

    You now cross into Trøndelag county. 

    Oppdal Municipality

    Oppdal is the first municipality you drive through in Trøndelag. This is a mountainous municipality, with large parts of it in the Dovrefjell. Østfjella and Trollheimen mountains. This is represented in the coat-of-arms.

    125 years ago, Oppdal was a purely agricultural community where the people produced practically everything they needed themselves. Today agriculture is still a significant industry. The sheep industry in Oppdal is the largest in the country with 45,000 sheep here.

    Kongsvoll Mountain Lodge

    Kongsvoll is another historic mountain lodge. The original inn was built in the 12th century, while the oldest parts of the lodge date back to the 18th century.

    Nearby is the Kongsvoll Alpine Garden, run by Trondheim’s university. This is the only alpine botanical garden in Scandinavia.

    Oppdal

    Oppdal is a major town and the administrative centre for the municipality. 

    Oppdal Travel Guide

    Rennebu Municipality

    Rennebu is a mostly mountainous municipality. The coat of arms shows the outline of the local church, Rennebu Church, which is one of the oldest churches in Norway based on a Y-shaped outline. The Trollheimen and Forollhogna National Parks lie in the municipality and the salmon river Orkla flows through it.

    Berkåk

    Berkåk is a small village with a population of around 959. The name comes from the word birch, referring to a prominent type of tree in the area. Every year in August, the Rennebumartnan is hosted in town. It is a sales exhibition for home improvement and handicrafts with around 20,000 visitors.

    Mitre Gauldal

    Mitre Gauldal is primarily an agricultural municipality. Every third person living here works in agriculture. Milk, poultry and eggs are produced here. The coat-of-arms shows a silver crossed Y figure on a green background. The crossed Y has several meanings. First, it symbolises the landscape which is based on the meeting of the two valleys here (Gauldal and Soknedal). The municipality also has a major Y-shaped road and railway junction. Lastly, the Budal Church, dating from 1745, is one of the oldest and few remaining Y-shaped churches in the country.

    Soknedal

    Soknedal is a small village located by the river Sokna.

    Støren

    Støren is the administrative centre of Mitre Gauldal municipality. It is located in the Gauldalen valley where the Gaula and Sokna rivers meet. The Dovrebanen and the Rørosbanen meet here as well.

    Melhus Municipality

    Melhus is the last municipality you pass through before Trondheim. Agriculture is important here, and the valleys are dominated by grain fields. The coat-of-arms symbolise a man called Einar Tambarskjelve, a famous chieftain and archer from Melhus in the 11th century. The entire area of Melhus was known during the Viking Age. It was the site of the first farm Rimul at which Jarl Haakon was killed by his slave, Tormod Kark. Archaeological excavations in the area have uncovered discoveries from the Viking Age. Additionally, 3,000 year old graves have been found.

    Melhus

    Melhus is the administrative centre of the municipality. Melhus is home to the Rimul farm, which is known from the Viking Age. It was the scene of the murder of Håkon Sigurdsson by his slave Tormod Kark, as described in the Saga of King Olav. The farm is still in operation today.

    Hakon had a mistress called Thora at the Rimul farm. Hakon and his slave were seeking shelter in hiding from Olav Tryggvason (founder of Trondheim) and his men, who were at the time searching for him. Thora led them to a pig sty beneath a great stone. Later, after killing the Earls son, Olav Tryggvason arrived at Rimul with a group of local farmers, now supporting him. The story continues in the Norse Sagas:

    Then Olaf held a speech out in the farm, he went up unto a great rock lying near the pig sty. Olaf spoke, and in his speech he said he would reward any man richly who could harm Hákon Earl. The Earl and Kark heard this speech. They had light where they lay. The Earl said: “Why are you so pale, yet sometimes black as dirt? It is not so that you wish to harm me?” “No,” says Kark. “We were born on the same night,” says the Earl. “Close will also our deaths be.”

    Lying in the pig sty at night, Kark killed Hakon. He brought the head to Olav, hoping to collect a reward. Unfortunately, Olav did not respect a slave murdering his own lord. Tormod Kark was himself decapitated. Both heads were put on stakes at Munkholmen for people to spit at.

    Trondheim Municipality

    You now cross into Trondheim municipality, the last municipality for the drive. 

    Trondheim

    You have made it to Trondheim, Norway’s third-largest city. You can read more about Trondheim via our travel guide below. 

    Trondheim Travel Guide

    Continue the drive

    Mo i Rana to Trondheim on the E6

    Continue your drive along the E6 up to the Arctic Circle and Mo i Rana. 

    Mo i Rana to Trondheim

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Folldal, Gudbrandsdalen, National Tourist Roads, Road-trips, Rondane

    Drive it Yourself: Rondane National Park

    Drive it Yourself: Rondane National Park

    The Rondane National Park is incredible. When I was editing the footage for this article, I desperately wanted to get in the car and go. This is the same reaction you’ll have when looking through this article.

    The park needs no introduction; images speak for themselves. I also don’t really need to convince you why you should visit. But you should. The Rondane National Park is Norway’s first, established in 1962. A primary reason for making it a national park was to protect the famous ‘Rondane massif’ (pictures above). Also, there is a large population of wild reindeer in the mountains and ancient traps used by nomadic hunter-gatherers.

    The drive is the national scenic road for Rondane – one of Norway’s 18 national tourist roads (click here to view their site). 

    It’s not a particularly long drive and can easily be done in a morning. There are hiking trails (long and short) everywhere, so you can spend some days here if the outdoors is your thing.

    We drove through the Rondane National Park on our way from Ringebu in Gudbrandsdalen to Røros, a UNESCO World Heritage town. In this article, I cover the section from Ringebu to Folldal, and the next article will be Folldal to Røros.

    For this drive, you pass incredible views, historic sites, and small towns. It’s not touristy at all. But trust me, it’s worth doing.

    Here’s my guide for the Rondane National Scenic Drive, from Ringebu to Folldal.

    In this article...

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    Visit Our YouTube Channel

    Rondane Tourist Road

    Ringebu

    This drive begins in Ringebu, a small village close to Lillehammer in the Gudbrandsdalen Valley. 

    Ringebu Travel Guide

    Venabygd

    Village

    Venabygd is a tiny town on the highway. There’s not much here – not even a sign welcoming you to the town – but you will see the church.

    Venabygd Church is from 1780.

    Venabygdsfjellet

    Mountains

    The next part we’ll be driving through is Venabygdsfjellet, a mountain area just south of the Rondana National Park. It varies between 850 and 1000m above sea level. The terrain is partly above the tree line.

    There were many farms here in ancient times, but today the area is characterised by cabins and hotels.

    Venabygdsfjellet is guaranteed snow throughout winter. There are 140km of marked ski trails. There is a competition from Høvringen in Rondane to Lillehammer called “The Troll Trail” – it is the world’s longest 1-day ski run (95km). The race takes place in early April.

    The area is very popular with hikers and cyclists in summer.

    You’ll pass some supermarkets, cafes and hotels here. Also keep an eye out for the chapel from 1979.

    Rondane National Park

    National Park

    Soon you’ll pass the official sign welcoming you to the Rondane National Park Tourist Road. We’ve made it!

    Rondane National Park is Norway’s first; created in 1962 to protect the Rondane massif, regarded as the finest alpine hiking region in Norway.

    The area has been inhabited by thousands of years, as evidenced by ancient reindeer-trapping sites and burial mounds. Rondane National Park is home to one of Norway’s oldest wild reindeer populations, with an estimated 2,000 to 4,000 in the mountains. They are not friendly like the semi-domesticated reindeer in the north, so if you encounter them walk away slowly.

    After the last Ice Age ended, climate changes allowed the reindeer to spread across Scandinavia, only to eventually be forced back to a much smaller area.

    On the mountain plateaus, there is evidence that the hunter-gatherers lived off reindeer. Large traps used to catch reindeer are found all over the park. They are constructed from stone to make holes or large fenced-in areas. Reindeer were tricked or led in.

    There are also small stone walls. They are believed to have been used as hiding places for archers waiting for prey. The earliest traps may be 3500 years old. Additionally, remains of houses from 500 to 700 AD are found in the area. Considering all of this, it’s believed that people lived and hunted here until the Black Death in the 14th century.

    After a decade of planning, Rondane was established as the first national park on 21 December 1962. It was first established as a nature protection area, but was later named a national park. In 2003, the park was enlarged from 580 to 963km2 (224 to 372 sq mi).

    More on the park later. Lets get back to driving.

    Atnbrua

    Village

    The first village in the park in Atnbrua, and there are a few things you can do here.

    Industrial Museum

    There is a museum called Atnbrufossen Vannbruksmuseum. It is all about the use of hydropower in industry here in the mountains, and it is located on Atnbru waterfall. The museum complex consists of a restored flotation plant, sawmill and hydropower plant. You can see a sawmill, sauna, drying house, timber floating plant, and a small power plant. Industrial traditions here date back to the 18th century, making it an interesting place to visit. The opening hours seem to be rather short, but they also open by appointment.

    Click here for more info on the museum. 

    War Collection

    A little past that museum is another, possibly more interesting one. The Sollia War History Collection was put together by one of the locals on a heritage farm (more on that soon). The war museum has weapons, uniforms, and items from the Norwegian resistance group ‘Milorg’ and the Norwegian Nazi party ‘Nasjonal Samling’. The owner of the museum, Jo Øvergaard, even has items from her own family’s collection as her father was part of ‘Operation Grebe’ from 1944 (click here to read about that). Jo will tell you lots of stories on your visit, if you’re interested.

    The farm, Amperhaugen, has been awaded the Olavsrosa from the Norwegian Hertiage Foundation, which is an award given to unique cultual experiences. You can spend the night at this fam. Click here to view their page.

    Again, it has very short opening hours but you can contact Jo and arrange a visit.

    Click here for more details.

    Knut Hamsun’s Cabin

    Additionally, there is a historic farm here. Practically across the street from the museum, Nordre Brænd was built in 1849 and is today still a farm but also a cabin area. Norway’s famed writer Knut Hamsun lived here for a year with his new wife Marie. He worked on the novel A Wanderer Plays with Sordin and the play Life in Violence in a cabin on the property. The cabin is still there today and you can rent it as a place to stay.

    Click here to view their website. 

    Otherwise, in Atnbrua you’ll find a supermarket.

    Solbergplassen

    Photo stop

    This is my favourite stop on the drive, simply because the view is spectacular.

    Here is where you’ll see the Rondane massif – a collection of tall barren mountains with the river flowing in front. This view has inspired many artists, but perhaps the most famous is Harald Sohlberg’s painting Winter’s Night in Rondane. After all, this stop is named after him.

    The viewing platform is interesting as well. It is built around the pine trees.

    Strømbu Rest Area

    Rest area

    If you are planning to go hiking, this is a great spot to park the car, as there are many paths leading off towards the mountains. Otherwise, if you just want to relax, there are benches, a covered area, and excellent views of the mountains.

    There is a tourist info office here, but it was closed when we visited. If they are open you can rent canoes or bikes, or they can show you short (1-2 hour) marked paths.

    If you want to learn about the history of Norwegian currency, this is the place! I know. It’s a bit weird. But there are information boards about the old banknotes in Norway. It’s only in Norwegian, but it’s not like you come to this viewpoint to read about banknotes.

    There are public bathrooms here but I must warn you: when we went, they were disgusting. The more you know!

    We walked down to the river – a short and easy walk – and took photos from there.

    Click here to view more images & info. 

    Exploring the Park

    National Park

    Much of the park’s glaciated and lichen-coated landscape is 1400m high, and 10 rough and stony peaks rise over 2000m, including Rondslottet (2178m), the highest, and Storronden (2138m). Rondanes range of wildlife includes 28 mammal species and 124 bird species.

    Rondane has a relatively mild climate, making it one of the safer areas for avoiding hiking in pouring rain. Low precipitation means less snow in the winter, but snow is still guaranteed on the mountains.

    The landscape was formed during the last Ice Age, 9,000 to 10,000 years ago. At that time large quantities of ice were formed, and it is believed the ice melted gradually. The ice melting must’ve been rapid when it happened, digging deep river valleys. There are a few small cabins here caused by rapid ice melting.

    There are no restrictions on where you can hike in the park, but please be considerate of the animal populations. It’s recommended to stay on marked trails. If you do happen upon some reindeer, slowly move away from them.

    The hiking season runs in July and August. There are guided hiking tours. Cabins you can spend the night in are scattered throughout the park if you want to spend a few days here.

    Folldal Municipality

    You cross into Folldal municipality. 

    Folldal Open Air Museum

    Museum

    The museum has a number of old farm buildings, including 18th century houses and 17th century cabins. There’s also a school building from 1898. Yes, it’s quite similar to other open-air museums, but worth stopping at if you are interested in history.

    Click here to view their website (in Norwegian only).

    Folldal

    This drive ends at Folldal, a beautiful town close to the Glomma River. 

    Folldal is a small town with a population of 526 that today focuses primarily on agriculture. The population is actually declining; between 2009 and 2019 the population fell by 5.6%.

    Long before there was a settlement here, the area was visited by nomadic hunters looking for reindeer. There are around 1,000 animal graves in Folldal, plus a mass trapping facility from the 13th century.

    According to local legend, the first man to settle here was the outlaw Torkjell Barfrost. According to the Faroese saga, Sigmundur Brestisson and his cousin Tori got lost in a snowstorm on Dovrefjell while on their way to meet Håkon Earl of Norway. They met Torkjell Barfrost and stayed with him, his wife and his daughter. They ended up staying with him for six years before moving on. Sigmundur and Tori spoke up in supoort of Torkjell, and eventually he was acquitted and became governor of the area.

    Even though Torskjell was the first man to live in Folldal, there wasn’t really a settlement until the 17th century. Folldal didn’t become a town until the 18th century, when mining started.

    Folldal’s Mining History

    Mining was the main industry in Folldal from the 18th century until 1993.

    Folldal Works (Folldal Verk) was founded in 1748, the same year the main copper mine opened. Copper, mine and zinc was all mined in Folldal. It was then transported by horse carriage to the neighbouring Alvdal municipality, where there was a smelter. In 1906, a 34km-long cable car (North Europe’s longest) was built to transport goods to the smelter.

    The main mine closed in 1941, but smelting continued using ore from other deposits until 1968. Business closed in 1993.

    Folldal Travel Guide

    The Previous Drive

    Gudbrandsdalen

    On the previous day we drove through the Gudbrandsdalen Valley to Ringebu. 

    Gudbrandsdalen

    The Next Drive

    Folldal to Røros

    After a short break in Folldal, we continue to Røros in Eastern Norway. 

    Folldal to Røros

    This drive is part of the multi-day series “The Ultimate Norwegian Road-trip”, where we cover the best of Norway in an incredible 10 day drive. You can view the whole road-trip via the link below. 

    The Ultimate Norwegian Road-trip

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Gudbrandsdalen, Ringebu, Stave Churches

    Exploring the history of Ringebu Stave Church

    Exploring the history of Ringebu Stave Church

    Ringebu Stave Church is one of the more famous stave churches of the 28 remaining. After all, it’s located in the popular Gudbrandsdalen (Gudbrand Valley) – it’s the only stave church there – and is very close to Lillehammer. The church is open to visitors in the summer months, and the nearby Prestegarden has an excellent museum. Additionally, Ringebu is one of the largest stave churches remaining.

    Its appearance is not very stave-like, and that’s because the church underwent a rebuilding around 1630. Some parts of the original stave church remain, and they are visible both inside and out.

    Here’s my guide to Ringebu Stave Church.

    Ringebu Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide
    The Earliest Church

    The dating of this church is a little tricky. It is first mentioned in a diploma by a priest in 1270, but that diploma has now disappeared. When dating the timber, it was likely felled around 1192. It’s not the first church on the site; the site is likely a pre-Christian place of worship. In the 1980s archaeologists found post holes from an older church. Ringebu Stave Church is therefore an early 13th-century stave church. This makes it quite young compared to other stave churches.

    Borgund Stave Church

    The style of the stave church is of the ‘Borgund’ type – named after Borgund Stave Church. It is thus related to the stave churches found in Sogn and Valdres. This is useful information because, sadly, Ringebu Stave Church was rebuilt in 1630. What did it look like before 1630? We don’t really know. But looking at these better-preserved stave churches may offer a glimpse at the old Ringebu Stave Church.

    Click here to see a drawing of Ringebu Stave Church made in 1862.

    Rebuilding the church in 1630

    Ringebu Stave Church was rebuilt into a cruciform church in 1630. Why? Well, stave churches were small, dark, cold, lacked benches, and were Catholic. By 1630 Norway was Protestant, and major towns needed churches that could accommodate their needs. Some stave churches were able to avoid rebuilding, though most have had some form of renovation. Ringebu required a larger and more modern church, and so they rebuilt the stave church.

    The church got a new tower, choir, cross arms, and sacristy. Werner Olsen was in charge of the work. His renovation work is well known in Norway. He worked on Lom Stave Church and rebuilt the church in Vågå. The characteristic red tower is from 1631.

    The lower half of the walls were painted white in 1717; at the time the ceiling was much lower. During the last major restoration in 1921, they focused on restoring the original paint. They also tried to make the church look closer to its 17th-century form. They removed the old gallery, fixed the staves, and removed the lower ceiling.

    What's left of the original church?

    The nave is the original stave church. The 18 staves are still surrounding the nave. While the shape has changed a little, the 1921 efforts brought it back to its original shape.

    Ringebu Stave Church before the 1920-21 restoration (source)

    Ringebu Stave Church is one of the few that had transepts already in the Middle Ages. The walls in the north and south both still have traces of the transepts.

    The portals are also somewhat original. In the Middle Ages, the ship had two portals. The south portal is preserved, while the west portal is still in use. Originally, doors in stave churches were very narrow. This is because you had to enter the church alone and not bring any evil spirits with you – I guess they both couldn’t fit through the door! However, in 1822 there was a major fire in Grue Church on Pentecost, where many people perished. You can read about the event here.

    After this fire, new regulations said that the doors of churches needed to be very wide. Additionally, the door must open outwards and be unlocked throughout the service. Because of this, they altered the west portal with the new hinges and a wider frame. Still, you can see some traces of the old vine carvings around the portal. The ornamentation is often compared to the portal of Torpo Stave Church.

    The original stave church used to have a hallway around the exterior of the church. Marks from it are still visible in the east gable.

    The exterior of the church bears little resemblance of its first form. It’s unknown if the roof had dragons’ heads like Borgund, for example. Some very worn wooden fragments with a vine motif were found during an excavation in 1980.

    Restoration work images

    Amazingly, the 1920-1921 restoration was photographed. Below you can find some images from the restoration. They are hosted on digitaltmuseum.no and each link will open in a new tab.

    Archaeological Exploration

    The most famous archaeological survey of the church took place in 1980-1981. In total, archaeologists found around 900 coins. Most of them are from medieval times, especially the time of King Håkon Håkonsson (1217-1263). This also lends itself to the age of the church.

    As mentioned above, there are old post holes from an earlier church. The post-church, or pillar church as it is also known, is a forerunner of the stave church. The staves (posts) stood directly into the ground. This wasn’t great, because this exposed the wood to humidity, making it rot quickly. Stave Churches have stone foundations, or at least stone around the staves, to prevent this from happening. Click here to see a photo of Ringebu’s staves.

    Interior Decoration

    Click here to see a photo of the interior decoration.

    Inside the church, you’ll see the 18 staves, held together with St. Andrews crosses. This is commonly found in stave churches, perhaps most famously at Borgund Stave Church.

    The church has remnants of medieval art (click here to see some wall paintings). However, most of the decoration is from the 17th and early 18th century. The altarpiece in the baroque style and is from 1686. The altarpiece is the oldest preserved inventory from after the Reformation. On it are the names of the wealthy donors. The pulpit is from 1703. The King’s Monogram is for Frederik IV – he is the king who sold the country’s churches at auction to get some money.

    The chandelier is from the 18th century.

    The soapstone baptismal font is from the 12th century and comes from the old pillar church that stood here before the stave church.

    One of the most famous pieces of art inside the church is a figure of St. Laurentius. It is from 1250 (you can see it here). There are also two crucifixes from the 14th century. Two runic inscriptions are on the walls, as well as two animal figures and a human figure carved into the wood.

    There were no windows on the original stave churches. If anything, they had tiny circular holes high up on the church. Windows let in the cold, and cold was not a good thing when you had to spend hours in the church. In the pre-Lutheran days, the churchgoers had to stand during service, which was in Latin. Most people did not understand Latin, but church attendance was compulsory. There were some benches along the edge of the church for the frail, but otherwise, you had to stand. In the Lutheran times, benches were added and services were now in Danish, which was a minor improvement.

    Ringebu Prestgard seen from the church

    Ringebu Prestegard

    Close to Ringebu Stave Church is another site called the Ringebu Prestegard. It’s an ancient farm and old vicarage. It’s believed that at its peak there were over 50 buildings here, including outbuildings and farmhouses. Most are gone now; there are 5 listed buildings on the site today. The large main building is from 1743 after the last main building burned down. The site was a vicarage until 1991.

    The main building became a gallery around 1997, which it has been ever since. A café is also located on the site. There’s also a museum and exhibition about the stave church, including some of the archaeological finds on display. Exhibitions also cover the stories of the priests who lived here, the garden, and the vicarage.

    The garden is very old and is also listed for protection.

    There is a nice little path that leads from the church up to the Prestegard.

    The Legend of the Sister Bells

    In 2018 a novel was published in Norway called Søsterklokkene, or the Sister Bells, by Lars Mytting. It’s based on a very old legend about the bells at Ringebu Stave Church. The following is the legend, translated by me from the Ringebu Stave Church website.

    The story:

    A story is told about the bells in the church. The bells were given to the church as a sacrifice by a family from the farm “Vestad’ in the 18th century. Two Siamese twin girls lived there. They were healthy despite growing up together. However, one day one of the sisters became ill. Her parents thought she was going to die. They prayed to God for the daughter and promised to donate to bells to the church if she could live. They also asked if the girls could be allowed to die at the same time so they would not be separated. The girl recovered and the family kept their word.

    In Blaesterdalen, two bells were cast up and set up in the church. They were called the sister bells. They sounded so good that people thought there must be silver in the ore they were cast from. The rumours about these bells reached Christiania (Oslo). It was decided that one of the bells should be sent to Christiania and put in there. Out in the winter, they used sledges over Lake Mjøsa to transport the bells.

    However, while on the lake, the driver of the sledges noticed the ice was cracking. He took it as a sign that it was wrong to separate the sister bells. He turned the sledge around and started to make his way back home. However, he started to think that he may be mocked once he got home, so he turned around and decided to go back to Christiania. However, the ice broke and the bell sank to the bottom of the lake.

    In the spring, the bell was found, and a rope was attached to it. A group dragged the bell out of the water and onto the boat. Someone exclaimed arrogantly: “Now we have her, and she is going to the capital!”. Then the rope broke and the bell sank again.

    The cemetery

    There is quite a large cemetery with some very old gravestones surrounding the church. I came across this interesting display of old graves; they’ve clearly been moved from their original location but are kept due to their age. Perhaps there are some famous names here?

    Visiting the Church

    Opening Hours & Admission

    The church gate is open all year round, so you can walk around the exterior of the church for free.

    If you happen to be here between June and August, you can pay a small fee and go inside the church. The up-to-date opening hours and prices are at the Ringbu Stave Church website, which you can see by clicking here. They change every year, so it’s best to check the website. Their website is only in Norwegian – strange considering the tourist appeal – but the practical info is fairly self explanatory.

    The church also has guided tours available. I highly recommend taking a guided tour.C

    Written Information

    There are some information boards outside, though most of them are in Norwegian. They don’t put information boards up inside stave churches, which is why I recommend getting a guided tour.

    How to get here

    The stave church is well signed with brown signs off the E6, the main highway between Oslo and Trondheim. It’s located about 2km outside of Ringebu town, and the road up to the church is quite narrow. There’s a large parking out outside it.

    We stayed in an AirBNB a five-minute walk from the stave church. I highly recommend it – this isn’t a paid endorsement, we just really liked the place. It was also nice to walk to the church. Click here to see it.

    Ringebu Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide
  • Gudbrandsdalen, Lillehammer, Otta, Ringebu, Road-trips, Scenic Drives

    Drive it Yourself: Gudbrandsdalen

    Drive it Yourself: Gudbrandsdalen

    Gudbrandsdalen is a valley just north of Oslo. Described by VisitNorway as ‘the king of the valleys’, Gudbrandsdalen has a lot to see and do. There are tons of historic sites as the valley is historically important. There are ancient farms as the valley is one of the famous food produces of Norway. And there are outdoor activities aplenty as Gudbrandsdalen is close to some of the most beautiful scenery in Norway.

    I have a lot to say about Gudbrandsdalen. This is, in fact, one of the valleys you are likely to visit on your trip to Norway. It’s on the way to Geiranger from Oslo, meaning it’s quite popular with tourists. I take my groups through the valley, and we spend time at the stave churches, farms, and mountain villas.

    Gudbrandsdalen (which means “Gudbrands Valley” in Norwegian) begins at Lillehammer, home of the 1994 Winter Olympics and an American mobster in hiding, and ends at Vågå, where you have easy road connections to to the Stryn, Sogne and Valdres Scenic Roads, plus the Western Fjords – provided you go in summer. Most of these roads close in winter.

    This is my overview of Gudbrandsdalen, including what to see and do. Watch the video below to see what this drive looks like, and be sure to read along with this article 🙂 

    In this article...

    Download this Guide

    All of our guides can be downloaded via our online store. 

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

    View at the Store

    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Information about facilities along the way

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the region & towns
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Facilities including supermarkets, toilets, petrol, hotels, cafes, restaurants with addresses.

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    Visit Our YouTube Channel

    The drive: Gudbrandsdalen Valley

    Otta

    This drive begins in Otta, located in the upper part of the valley. 

    Otta Travel Guide

    Rondane National Park

    National Park/Detour

    Shortly after leaving Otta you’ll see signs point to Rondane National Park. You can find information about the park via the link below. 

    Rondane National Park

    Sjoa

    Village

    Sjoa is a small town located alongside the river Sjoa – hence its name! The town is very well known for its water sports, including rafting and kayaking. The river is also rich in trout and grayling, making it one of several popular fishing rivers in Norway.

    Nord-Fron Municipality

    Kvam

    Village

    Kvam is probably most famous for the battles that took place here during World War II. During the military campaign in Norway in 1940, Kvam was the scene of a battle between German and British forces. During the battle, the original Kvam Church (from 1776) was destroyed, along with 70 houses. There is a whole Wiki page to the battles, which you will find here. 

    By Kvam Church is the Peace Park, which is a memorial to the locals killed during World War II. There are also memorials on Stølane (Kvamsfjellet) where Russian soldiers were shot by Germans, and on Hillingen where three Norwegian soldiers lost their lives in a battle against German troops.

    Kvam has a British military cemetery. There is also a museum about World War II, the Gudbrandsdal War Memorial Collection, in town.

    Remember the battle at Otta in 1612 between Norwegian peasants and the Scots? Well, after the battle 134 Scottish prisoners were taken from Otta to Kvam. At Klomstadlåven, most were killed in a massacre. The barn building where they were kept before they were massacred, was destroyed during World War II.

    Kvam currently has a population of 762. Most of the industry has closed down in the last few years.

    Vinstra

    Village

    Vinstra is a small town with a population of 2553 on the E6 and the Train from Oslo to Trondheim.

    Vinstra is perhaps most famous for its connection to Peer Gynt. A local man, Peder Olsen Hågå, was the model for Henrik Ibsen’s dramatic poem Peer Gynt from 1867. In the cemetery in Sødorp you’ll find a monument to Peer Gynt.

    Every year since 1967 the Peer Gynt Festival has been held on the Peer Gynt Farm, Hågå. The farm consists of 15 old buildings, and the festival includes, among other things, an open-air performance of the play.

    From Vinstra you can do the Peer Gynt Road through Gålå to Lillehammer. There’s also the Peer Gynt Seter Road to Kvam over the hills.

    Sødorp Church

    Historic Church

    Sødorp Church is a wooden cruciform church from 1752. It’s believed the first church on the site was a stave church, but it was replaced in 1570 and no trace of it remains today. In 1752, the church was replaced once again with the church we have today.

    Originally the church stood in Sødorp, a small town just south of Vinstra – hence its name. However, Vinstra emerged as a major town in the early 20th century, and it was decided to move the church there. In 1910, the church was moved to its present location. 

    The 18th century church originally had a very high tower, but it was destroyed by wind in 1850. The church then got a stumpy small tower (click here for a photo of it). When it was moved to Vinstra, they made a new high tower for the church. You can see photos of the construction process here, here, and its completion here. 

    Much of the interior is from the 18th century, including the altarpiece, pulpit, choir arch, crucifix and relief figures. The soapstone baptismal font is from the Middle Ages, though.

    In the graveyard you’ll find a memorial stone to the real Peer Gynt. 

    Sør-Fron Municipality

    Harpefoss

    Town

    Harpefoss is a small town with a population of 335. The name comes from the railway development in 1896, when the railway station was named Harpefoss. People have lived here for centuries, though, and old names were Skurdal and Ryssland. Harpefoss is the name of the waterfall that separates two hamlets.

    During the railway development, Harpefoss Hotel was built. It is the only hotel left that is one of the original hotels from the railway development period that still stands. It is built in Swiss style with neo-Gothic features. It has long since been closed down as a hotel, and after a period as a country store, the house is now a residence.

    In Harpefoss you can stay in a historic farm! 

    The farm ‘Sygard Grytting’ has belonged to the same family since the 14th century. The current owner is the 16th generation since the year 1534. 

    It’s believed that as far back as Christianity goes, pilgrims would stay at the property on their way towards Nidaros in Trondheim. Because of these, there are unusual details in some of the buildings that are very similar to details found in monasteries. 

    You can stay in historic houses from the 17th century – the same houses the pilgrims stayed in – or buildings from the 19th century. 

    The property is still a working farm. 

    Agriculture specialises in sheep, grain, grass production and forestry. In ancient times, the operation was very versatile and the farm was self-sufficient in most things.

    Click here to visit their website. 

    Hundorp & Dale-Gudbrands Farm

    Historic Site

    Hundorp is the administrative centre of the municipality. Historically, Hundorp is a very important place. It was the centre of the petty kingdom of the Gudbrand Valley and as such an important place in terms of religion and politics.

    All this took place at Dale-Gudbrand’s farm. Dale-Gudbrand is a famous historic figure from the 1100s. He is mentioned in multiple Norse sagas, but most famously in the story of Olav the Holy christianising Gudbrandsdalen. You can read the story here. The image above is a drawing of Olav christianising the farmers. 

    Around the farm are five large grave mounds, though sadly one of them was removed. The four remaining are between 23 and 32 metres (75ft and 105ft). Additionally, there’s a square ring of stones and the remains of a round ring of stones, indicating a possible worshipping site.

    Today it is a Pilgrim Centre. There is a small farm shop with local food products and souvenirs. You can also spend the night there if you wish. Click here to visit their website. 

    Ringebu Municipality

    Ringebu

    This drive ends at Ringebu, a scenic village home to one of Norway’s preserved stave churches. 

    Ringebu Travel Guide

    The Previous Drive

    Valdresflye Tourist Road

    In the morning we drove across the beautiful Valdressflye Tourist Road.

    Valdresflye Tourist Road

    The Next Drive

    Rondane Tourist Road

    After spending the night in Ringebu, we continued over the mountains on the Rondane Tourist Road. 

    Rondane Tourist Road

    This drive is part of the multi-day series “The Ultimate Norwegian Road-trip”, where we cover the best of Norway in an incredible 10 day drive. You can view the whole road-trip via the link below. 

    The Ultimate Norwegian Road-trip

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Fagernes, Gudbrandsdalen, National Tourist Roads, Road-trips, Valdres

    Drive it Yourself: The Valdresflye National Tourist Road

    Drive it Yourself: The Valdresflye National Tourist Road

    If you are looking for a great scenic road near the mountains, I do recommend Valdresflye. Everyone has heard of the Jotunheimen National Park, but you can’t exactly drive through the middle of it. The best way to see the park is to get out of your car and go for a hike. However, if you take the Valdresflye Scenic Road, you do get a glimpse at Jotunheimen’s beauty.

    Valdresflye is a mountain plateau in the easternmost part of Jotunheimen National Park. Reaching a height of 1,389m (4,557ft), it’s the second-highest mountain pass after Sognefjellet, a road famous for its bad weather. Valdresflye is a lot safer than Sognefjellet, and it is open longer than Sognefjellet.

    Valdresflye Scenic Road is not a long road (49km/30 mi), so you can take the time to park and go for many of the marked hikes. 

    If you are interested in historical sites, along the road you pass many ancient summer farms and mountain pastures.

    I got to do the Valdresflye National Scenic Road in September 2020, when I was travelling from Fagernes to the Gudbrandsdalen Valley. Below you’ll find all the info you need to do the drive yourself!

    In this article...

    View Our 'Ultimate Norway' Road-trip

    Download this Guide

    All of our guides can be downloaded via our online store. 

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

    View at the Store

    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Information about facilities along the way

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the region & towns
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Facilities including supermarkets, toilets, petrol, hotels, cafes, restaurants with addresses.

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    Visit Our YouTube Channel

    The drive: Valdresflye Tourist Road

    Fagernes

    I recommend that you begin this drive in Fagernes. 

    Fagernes Travel Guide

    Hegge Stave Church

    Stave Church

    Hegge Stave Church is a 13th century stave church located on the hillside near Heggenes village. It has undergone many repairs over the years, altering its appearance dramatically. The staves inside are still original, though. 

    Hegge Stave Church

    Beitostølen

    Ski Resort/Town

    Beitostølen is a small town located 900m (3000ft) above sea level. As of January 2020, the population was 360. It is largely a tourist area, with several large hotels, cabins, shops and restaurants.

    Due to the proximity to Jotunheimen, as well as its height, Beitostølen is among the most snow-sure winter sports resorts in Europe, and ski season usually lasts from November to April.

    There are alpine slopes and cross-country trails totalling 320km. In summer, Beitostølen is very popular with hikers.

    The village has hosted the FIS Cross-Country World Cup and the Biathlon World Cup competitions.

    There is the Beitøstolen Health Sports Centre, a rehabilitation for the disabled. Ridderrennet, an international ski race for the disabled, is held at Beitostølen every year.

    Today Beitostølen is the second largest tourist destination in Innlandet County after Lillehammer.

    Bitihorn

    Mountain

    The most prominent peak you’ll see after starting the scenic road is Bitihorn, which is 1607m high. It’s a popular hike, and there’s a parking lot on the left where you can park. It’s near a Sami camp.

    Here is some info about hikes in the area.

    Bygdin Mountain Hotel

    Historic Hotel

    The history of the hotel goes back to 1867, when two brothers had an idea to build a hotel here and generate tourism. Originally their hotel was in a different location; when the road was finished and it didn’t go past their hotel, they moved it to the current location. The building was completed in 1897 and is now the oldest pat of the present-day hotel.

    Bygdin Hotel quickly became popular thanks to its good standard and location on the mountain pass. In winter, planes would land on the frozen lake with tourists.

    The first major renovation of the hotel was in 1910-1912, and you can still see this renovation in some of the historic rooms, the salon, and the entrance.

    During World War II, the hotel was used as an officer’s quarters. German and Austrian troops came here to practice warfare in the mountains. Up to 20,000 men and 600 horses passed through the area. At the hotel, a lot of furniture, paintings and valuables were confiscated. The piano was recovered after the war; it was found all the way in Trondheim. The piano is in the ladies’ lounge today.

    In 1964 a new brick building was added to the property. New owners took over in 2017, after stopping at the hotel to buy a waffle and deciding to buy it! The new owners are making efforts to preserve its historic character.

    You can stop here for a bite to eat and to admire the hotel.

    Historical info taken from the hotel’s website. 

    Flye1389

    Scenic viewpoint

    This is the highest point on the road, at 1389m above sea level (4557 ft). The cafe inside has food from Valdres and Gudbrandsdalen, plus incredible views over the mountain peaks. You can rent hiking equipment here. 

    Steinplassen

    Monument

    At the same photostop where I took the above photos you’ll see Steinplassen, a monument to all the cairns found on mountains. The mountain range here is the Jotunheimen mountains. 

    Bessheim Fjellstue & Hytter

    Historic Hotel

    Bessheim is a historic lodgings.

    The site was a sæter, which is a kind of old building and base that had everything anyone would need when in the mountains. It was important to those coming to their summer farms, but also for fishers and hunters. They would find equipment here, plus shelter if there was a storm. 

    As the area became more popular for hikers in the second half of the 19th century, the sæter became a good place for those seeking shelter. Eventually the sæter’s (there were three here) grew into lodges. The first building built for tourism was in 1890. The lodge ceased being used for cows and goats in the 1960s – yes, historically these lodges were also for animals! 

    There is one sæter still on the property, Sandnesstuggu, which you can rent for the night.  The hotel has remained in the family since 1890, with the current owner being the great-great granddaughter of the woman who built the lodge in 1890.

    Historic info taken from the hotel’s website (click here). 

    Hindsæter Hotel

    Historic Hotel

    Hindsæter Hotel is a small, historic timber hotel from 1898. Much like Bessheim, the hotel was originally a sæter; a farm that welcomed guests. As more people began to come here in the late 19th century, the farmer owner built a hotel. The landscape is historic, with old timber houses, stone fences, ski guards and grazing animals. The hotel even has its own hydropower plant.

    History taken from the hotels website (click here). 

    Ridderspranget Ravine

    Natural Attraction

    Ridderspranget, or ‘The Knight’s Leap’ in English, is a ravine formed by a river that has gnawed deep into the bedrock, so erosion has only taken place in the riverbed. The name comes from a legend about Sigvat Leirholar, one of the king’s advisers, who received a letter that a beautiful girl was to marry a knight. The girl did not want to marry the knight, so Sigvat decided to set her free! He picked her up and fled with her – the knight cased them but Sigvat jumped after Ridderspranget with the girl in his arms and they were free.

    It is a short and relatively easy walk to get to Ridderspranget. 

    Vågå Municipality

    Randsverk

    Settlement

    Randsverk is a small settlement with mostly cabins and campgrounds. There is a supermarket here, too!

    They have a lovely website, which you can view here. 

    In Randsverk you’ll find signs pointing to Jotunheimen National Park, but keep in mind that the road is gravel. You can also find the road down to Gudbrandsdalen. 

    Vågåmo

    Our final stop is Vågåmo, a picturesque small town located just off the Rv15. Information on Vågåmo can be found via the link below. 

    Edvard Munch & Vågå

    Continue the drive

    Telemark

    Take the scenic drive through Telemark from Dalen to Kongsberg.

    Telemark Scenic Drive

    Previous Drive

    Numedal Valley

    Numedal is home to a large number of medieval buildings, including four stave churches. 

    Numedal Valley

    This drive is part of the multi-day series “Ultimate Norway”. You can read about the whole drive below. 

    View Our 'Ultimate Norway' Road-trip

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Gudbrandsdalen, History, Walking Guides

    Following in the Footsteps of Edvard Munch in Vågå

    Following in the Footsteps of Edvard Munch in Vågå

    When on a road trip through Norway, it’s worth trying to stop in as many small towns as possible. Each one is unique in their way, and each one has some treasures to uncover. Vågåmo, or Vågå, is on the E15 highway that links you between Oslo and Geiranger in the summer months, via the famous Lom village and close to the Sognefjellet Scenic Road. Vågå is one end of the Valdresflye Scenic Road, which gives you a close look at the Jotunheimen National Park. Vågå is well known for its wealth of outdoor activities, but they aren’t for everyone. If you’re looking for something a little different, you can do the Edvard Munch self-guided walk.

    In this article...

    Vågåmo Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Edvard Munch & Vågå

    Yes, Edvard Munch is linked to Vågå. Edvard is, of course, Norway’s most famous painter. He is so famous that they’ve rebuilt the Munch Museum in Oslo as this dominating skyscraper over the city skyline. It is officially the largest building dedicated to one artist. Norway is proud of Edvard, that much is clear. But Edvard isn’t exclusive to Oslo; in Vågå you can find sites that draw connections to the famous artist. This is because his family is from Vågå.

    When walking through Vågå, you’ll get to learn about Edvard’s interest in his heritage, plus what the Munch’s did here. His father’s side came from Vågå, and when Edvard was a young man, he came here to learn more about his ancestry. He maintained a close relationship to Vågå throughout his life and visited several times.

    When I visited Vågå after finishing the Valdresflye Scenic Road in September 2020, I did the Edvard Munch self-guided walk. I’ll be honest, I find the town’s connection to Edvard Munch a little thin. Still, I love the town for its history and heritage. Through Edvard Munch, they’ve made a real effort to preserve their old buildings and the stories of his ancestors. That’s the part I loved about this walk; getting to learn about real people who lived here and see the old buildings. The walk is an excellent overview of Vågå, so even if you aren’t interested in Edvard Munch it’s well worth doing.

    In this article, I’ve included information about both Vågå and Munch’s connection to Vågå. It’s a short walk – 1.3km – so if you find yourself in Vågå, I recommend taking the time to explore the town.

    The Munch connection to Vågå

    Edvard Munch was born near Hamar, but his parents came from Kristiania (Oslo). To find his connection to Vågå, we have to go back to his grandparents and great grandparents on his father’s side, who lived in the town.

    Christine Munch

    His great grandfather was Peder Sørensen Munch, who was a pastor at Vågå Church. Sadly there isn’t much information on him today, but his wife is much more known. She was Edvard’s great grandmother, and her name is Christine Storm Munch. She had a herb garden at the Ullinsvin vicarage. Christine is the main family member you’ll hear about on the walk. The audio guide is even based on her stories.

    Christine (1747-1825) was a well-known knowledgable and accomplished woman. She governed Ullinsvin in the last part of the 18th century. Christine grew and collected healing herbs and spices in the vicarage’s garden. She was well known for helping sick villagers with her natural remedies. Before cookbooks were common, she wrote hundreds of pages of recipes.

    Another well-known Munch is Edvard Storm (1749-1794), the half-brother of Christine. He grew up at Ullinsvin and wrote folk songs in the Vågå dialect. They are still sung by folk singers today. He is a famous poet and many of his poems are characteristic of Norwegian national romanticism.

    Edvard's Interest in Vågå

    Why the interest in Vågå? Edvard suffered a lot of loss in his family when he was growing up. That likely piqued his interest in learning about his ancestors. His father had told him stories about his family in Vågå. The town was considered a key place for the family on his father’s side. Everyone in the family felt a need to visit Vågå Church and Ullinsvin vicarage. So, Edvard did. He visited first as a young man and returned several times throughout his life. It’s believed he drew inspiration from the landscape as well as some of the paintings in Vågå Church.

    Vågå Church

    Vågå Church is the first stop on the self-guided walk. The walk begins in the town square, where you’ll see a large ‘The Scream’ poster that you can pose in! Still, I’ll begin my guide with the church.

    There’s a lot of misinformation online about the church. Many tourism websites define the church as either “one of the oldest wooden churches in Norway” or as “one of the oldest stave churches in Norway”. Neither is true.

    Vågå Church was built in the 17th century, using parts of a stave church that was considered one of the oldest stave churches in the country. However, today Vågå Church is not built in a stave style and thus not classified as one of the 28 remaining stave churches in Norway. Still, don’t let this put you off visiting! Stave elements are remaining, and the church is gorgeous.

    History of the church

    Vågå has been populated for a very long time. Vågå is mentioned in the Old Norse sagas when King Olav (later Saint Olav) travelled through the region. He called all the villagers to a meeting, and told them if they didn’t convert to Christianity, he’d burn their houses and farms down. Most of the villagers converted to Christianity.

    It’s believed the site where Vågå Church is today used to be a pagan temple. There was likely a stave church on the site around 1030, a few years after King Olav forced everyone into Christianity. The stave church would’ve been a symbol of the dominance of the new religion over the old, though stave churches did use pagan symbology. If Christianity didn’t work out, they could use the church as a pagan church.

    A new stave church was completed on the site around 1150, and this is widely regarded as one of the oldest stave churches in the country. It was not the only stave church in the village; there were several scattered throughout the village.

    A new church for Vågå

    By the early 17th century, the population of Vågå had become too large for the stave churches. So, a decision was made to tear them down and make one large central church. Between 1626 and 1628, Vågå Church was built. It is a cruciform church and, while the construction technique is like stave churches, the church does not have staves. Because of this, it is not classified as a stave church.

    Still, there are elements of stave churches on this church. The several previous stave churches had good timber, and some of this is in the construction of Vågå Church. Many of the wall surfaces have the old decorations from the stave churches, especially the portals.

    The basic architectural plan is a Latin cross. The construction was done under the direction of Werner Olsen (1600-1682), who is famous in Gudbrandsdalen for his renovation work on stave churches. He later worked on the remodelling of Lom Stave Church and Ringebu Stave Church. His ‘trademark’ is the octagonal bell tower with four small spires in each corner. This type of spire is known as the “Gudbrandstalen type”. Olsen worked to incorporate elements from the stave churches into the new church.

    The Baptismal Font (Source)

    Interior Decorations

    There are some richly decorated items inside, some from the original stave church. For example, the baptismal font is from the 12th century and is the church’s oldest inventory. The pattern corresponds to a pattern found on a Viking ship. It was likely brought over from Ireland by the Vikings. Another old item is the crucifix, from the mid-13th century. It’s in the Gothic style.

    The pulpit and altarpiece are from the rebuilding of the church. The organ is from 2002 and has 1200 pipes.

    Cemetery

    The most famous grave in the cemetery is of Jo Gjende. He (1794-1884) was famous in Norway as an outdoorsman and freethinker. He was born in Vågå and grew up on a farm, which he later inherited, but he ended up living in the Jotunheimen mountains on a mountain farm. Jo became known for his reindeer hunting and sharpshooting. Eventually, he became a vocal sceptic of Christianity, instead, he believed in natural philosophy. For this, he became known as a freethinker. It’s believed that Henrik Ibsen used Jo Gjende as a model for Peer Gynt.

    You will also see some of the Munch family graves here, such as Edvard Storm.

    Vågå Church Visitor Info

    The church has its own website, which you can view here. It’s only in Norwegian, but has a page for tourists. As of writing, there’s no info on opening hours.

    Ullinsvin Vicarage

    Ullinsvin vicarage is a short uphill (but not steep) walk from the church, and the views along the way are incredible. Once at the vicarage, you can walk around the gardens for free. There’s a café here plus a gallery.

    Ullinsvin is an old vicarage with a total of 13 buildings. The old garden has a herb garden, rosebeds, mountain gardens and various trees and shrubs. The Munch family lived at the vicarage for over 80 years, and Christine became famous for her herb garden here. Sadly the original location of the herb garden is unknown, though thanks to her recipes they have been able to replant some of her herbs.

    You can take a break at Ullinsvin at Café Edvard, where they have created a menu around Christine’s old recipes.

    Jo Visdal was a close friend of Edvard Munch from adolescence and for the rest of their lives. They met when they were both studying at the Royal College of Drawing. Jo Visdal created the bus of Edvard Munch you can see in the garden. The bust shows Edvard Munch as a young man, and it is the only bust made of Edvard while he was alive. It was made in 1886. Jo Visdal is from Vågå.

    Up-to-date visitor info is found on their website, but it’s only in Norwegian. Click here.

    Inside the museum (source)

    Jutulheimen Bygdemuseum

    The last stop on the walk is the museum all about life around Jotunheimen National Park.

    The museum contains a collection of houses from the 17th, 18th and 19th centuries from various farms in Vågå. In summer, you can have a guided tour through the museum. There’s an old portal that’s connected to the folktales of Asbjørnsen and Moe, Norway’s most famous fairytale writers. There are some interesting interior exhibitions, too. One exhibition focuses on the impact of World War II on Gudbransdalen, while another is about Jo Gjende, the reindeer hunter.

    Up-to-date visitor information can be found on their website (click here).

    Practical information

    Edvard Munch self-guided walk

    The self-guided walk has its own website, which you can view here. The website includes the audio you can listen to at each stop, though it’s only in Norwegian. There’s also a ton of info in English about Munch and Vågå. I used the website as a resource for this page. https://www.munchivaga.no/english/

    Vågåmo Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide