Central Norway

  • Central Norway, Dombås, European Highways, Gudbrandsdalen, Hamar, Lillehammer, Oppdal, Oslo, Otta, Ringebu, Road-trips, Trondheim

    Drive it Yourself: Oslo to Trondheim on the E6

    Drive it Yourself: Oslo to Trondheim on the E6

    The E6 is the longest road that runs through Norway. Starting in Svinesund, on the Swedish border, it goes all the way to Kirkenes on the Russian border, stretching 2,576km.

    The busiest stretch of road, and the part that we cover here, is the stretch between Oslo and Trondheim. The E6 also follows the old Pilgrims Road that went from Hallvard Cathedral in Oslo to Nidaros Cathedral in Trondheim, and you will see many historic places associated with the old pilgrim’s road.

    This guide will start at the part of the E6 shortly after Oslo Airport, when you cross into Eidsvoll County.

    In this article...

    Downloadable Version of This Guide

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

    View at the Store

    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Information about facilities along the way

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the region & towns
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Facilities including supermarkets, toilets, petrol, hotels, cafes, restaurants with addresses.

    Oslo to Trondheim on the E6

    Oslo

    This drive begins just north of Oslo’s Gardermoen Airport, but you can learn more about Oslo via the travel guide below. 

    Oslo Travel Guide

    Eidsvoll Municipality

    The first municipality that you cross through after Oslo is Eidsvoll.

    The part ‘eid’ means “a road passing around a waterfall”, while ‘voll’ means “meadow” or “field”. The name therefore refers to the fact that people from the districts around the lake Mjøsa (you will see it later) were sailing down the river Vorma and people from Romerike were sailing up the river. They had to enter this area by passing the Sundfossen Waterfall. Because of this, the site has been an important meeting place long before the introduction of Christianity. The coat-of-arms depict a scale as a symbol of justice, representing the old court.

     

    Eidsvoll is mentioned in the Old Norse Sagas back to the 11th century. The sagas were a court and assembly for the eastern part of Norway mostly due to the lake and the river that served as a transport road. Historically the main industry was agriculture, despite the fact that there is a lot of clay in the soil.

    The town of Eidsvold in Queensland, Australia, and Eidsvold Township in Minnesota use the old spelling of the municipality. The current ‘Eidsvoll’ was adopted in Norway in 1918.

    Small Detour: Eidsvoll Town

    Eidsvoll is a historically important place in Norway. You must leave the E6 and take a small detour, but it is worth it. Eidsvoll Church is an old church from 1200 and is built in the Romanesque style. The church is located on the old Pilgrims Road and is one of the important stops along the way.

    Eidsvoll Verk (how it is written on Google Maps) refers to the smelt iron ore that King Christian IV of Denmark opened in 1624. He was relying on the excellent water power from the Andelva River. The smeltery was taken over by Kongsberg Silver Mines. Carsten Anker bought the works in 1794 and restored it, setting up the production of stoves and similar iron goods. He also took residence in Eidsvoll, building a manor house now known as Eidsvollsbygningen. The Eidsvoll Verk has closed, but the name still remains. The old mill can be seen in the town.

    In 1854, Eidsvoll became the end point for the first railroad line in Norway from Oslo.

    This is the site where the constitutional assembly met to draft and sign the Constitution of Norway on the 17th of May 1814. The building is considered to be one of Norway’s most important national monuments and the cradle of modern Norway. Today it is a museum. The home was lived in by Carsten Anker, owner of the iron works, lived here during the time when it was used to sign the constitution. He went bankrupt in 1822 and the ownership of the estate was transferred to British creditors. A group of private citizens led by Henrik Wergeland organised a fundraiser that allowed them to buy the building with the pavilion and surrounding garden. When the purchase was finalised, the group donated the property to the Norwegian estate.

    I will visit the building eventually and write a more detailed overview of it.

    Minnesund

    Minnesund is a small village on the southern tip of Lake Mjøsa at the place where the lake flows into the Vorma River. Minnesund is an old ferry pier and has always been important for travel and communications. 

    Lake Mjøsa

    Lake Mjøsa is the largest lake in Norway and the 35th largest in Europe. It is also Norway’s and Europe’s fourth-deepest lake with the greatest depth being 453 metres. Lake Mjøsa provides drinking water for up to 100,000 people.

    The area around the lake is one of the most fertile agricultural districts in Norway.

    The meaning of the word ‘Mjøsa’ is unknown.

    In summer the surface temperature averages between 13 and 16 degrees and up to 20 degrees deep in the Furnesfjorden. Parts of the lake freeze over in December. In January, almost all the lake is covered with ice and in particularly cold winters the entire lake can be covered with ice in February.

    Mjøsa is home to Norway’s largest inland fishery and is also one of the country’s most species-rich lakes. 21 fish species have been found in the lake, including perch, trout, pike and other species.

    The lake has also been an important transport and traffic artery, even when frozen. The lake is commonly mentioned in the Viking Sagas and the transport of goods on the lake was probably extensive and well organized in the Viking Age and Hamar’s heyday in the High Middle Ages. Salt, grain, iron, coffee, sugar and tobacco went north, while alcohol, glass, timber, ore, cheese, butter and grain went south. Steamships were launched on the lake in 1840 for better transport.

    Innlandet County

    You will now be driving through Innlandet County. 

    Stange Municipality

    Stange is the first municipality you will pass through in Innlandet county. There have been settlements here since well before the Viking Age. Because of the old transport route went along here, there has been trade and hospitality here since time immoral. Stange Church, with is in Stange village, is first mentioned in 1225 in Håkon Håkonssons saga. The current building is from 1250.

    Stange is one of the largest agricultural municipalities in Innlandet. Norway’s oldest agricultural school, Jønsberg High School, is located here. The high school teaches in nature management, agriculture, animal husbandry, forestry, and biology, as well as organic farming, mathematics and chemistry. The school was established in 1847. You will pass the school on your right shortly before going into Hamar.

    Espa

    Espa is a small village that saw fighting during World War II, when battles were fought between Norwegians and Germans to prevent the Germans from following the King as he fled Oslo. The Espa Servicesenter has become kind of (?) famous because it has sold a large number of buns in recent years, earning the nickname ‘bolle land’ . You can visit their website here: https://www.bolleland.no/

    Hamar Municipality

    Hamar municipality is named after the main town in the area – Hamar. We’ll cover Hamar next, but first lets talk about the coat-of-arms for the municipality. The coat-of-arms depict a Black Grouse sitting on top of a pine tree. The first version of this coat-of-arms was depicted in 1553

    Hamar

    Hamar is the first major town on the E6. It is also one of the major historic towns in Norway and was one of the powerful centres of Norway during the Viking and medieval times. 

    You can read our separate guide to Hamar below. 

    Hamar Travel Guide

    Ringsaker Municipality

    Ringsaker Municipality gets its name from the old Ringsaker Church. The coat-of-arms shows a moose; the image is taken from a pre-historic cave painting that has been found in the municipality. The area is mentioned in King Harald Hårfagres Saga as well as St. Olavs Saga when St. Olav was christening the area.

    Ringsaker is primarily an agricultural and lumbering region. 

    Brumunddal

    The town of Brumunddal (population 11,019) grew as a settlement with the establishment of the Dovre train line in 1894. The major industry in the town is agriculture and forestry. Close to Brumunddal is the Mjøsa Tower (Mjøstårnet), the world’s tallest wooden building. It is 18 floors and 85.4 metres high. 

    Rudshøgda

    Rudshøgda is best known as the childhood home of author, poet, playwright, songwriter and musician Alf Prøysen. Prøysenhuset is a cultural centre and museum honoring his memory. He wrote the very popular Mrs Pepperpot series of childrens books.

    Moelv

    The town of Moelv (population 4,459) was built around various mills that were utilising the power of the Moelva River. The largest industrial company here is Moelven Industrier, which is one of Scandinavia’s leading suppliers of building products.

    Rock carvings have been found in Moelv that can be traced back tot he Stone Age and are generally regarded as the best-preserved rock carvings in Norway. Additionally, the Ringsaker Church is located here. It was completed in the middle of the 12th century and is dedicated to St. Olav. 

    North of Moelv is Tovsteinsringen (The twelve-stone ring). This is an ancient stone circle that is often compared to Stonehenge (this one is much, much smaller). It is believed to have been the site of a burial ritual, likely for a wealthy, high-ranking person.

    Lillehammer Municipality

    Lillehammer Municipality is named after the major town of Lillehammer, your next detour. The name Lillehammer means “Little Hammer” and was developed as a new trading town on the Lake Mjøsa after Hamar, hence the name. The coat-of-arms depict a birkebeiner, a 12th-century civil war fighter, carrying a shield, who is skiing down a silver/white mountainside under a blue sky. The birkebieners carried the future King Haakon from Lillehammer to Rena on skis during the Civil War.

    There have been settlements here since the Iron Age and the market here was mentioned in Håkon Håkonssons saga in 1390. It was also believed to have a site for the Ting assembly. However, despite this history, Lillehammer was registered as a trading down in 1827.

    Lillehammer

    Lillehammer is the next major stop on the E6. There is so much to say about Lillehammer, so check out our separate travel guide page. 

    Lillehammer Travel Guide

    Øyer Municipality

    Øyer Municipality is the first municipality within the Gudbrandsdalen region. The coat-of-arms show a silver-coloured wooden ring on a green background. This is a type of ring that was historically made of wood and was used to fasten a tree trunk to a rope to haul it over the land. Similar devices were used all over Norway, but this shape was typical for the area.

    Øyer was one of the area’s most severely impacted by the Black Death in 1349-1350. It is believed that up to 75% of residents here died, and many of the farms were deserted until the late 17th century.

    Øyer is a farming and logging municipality, though recreation is increasingly through the ski centres.

    Tretten

    Tretten is a small village with a population of 860. In 2022, it made the news as the bridge that crosses the river completely collapsed. 

    Ringebu Municipality

    Ringebu municipality is located within the traditional Gudbrandsdalen region and has a population of 4,800. The largest and main settlement is the town of Ringebu. The coat-of-arms represents shows three flames, representing the three valleys and three parishes in the municipality.

    Ringebu

    Ringebu may be a small village, but it is home to Norway’s largest stave church. Read our travel guide below. 

    Ringebu Travel Guide

    Sør-Fron Municipality

    Sør-Fron Municipality is a small municipality in the Gudbrandsdalen valley. The coat-of-arms show a white or silver club on a green background. The club is reminiscent of the club that Kolbein Sterke used in 1021 when King Olav Haraldsson met the people of Fron and Dale-Gudbrand at Hundorp. The meeting is depicted in the Norse Sagas.

    The most important industries here are agriculture, industrial factories, and tourism.

    The famous play Peer Gynt is staged annually at Lake Gålå in the mountains around Sør-Fron. It is believed that Peer Gynt is set in the area.

    Hundorp

    Hundorp is the administrative centre of the municipality. Historically, Hundorp is a very important place. It was the centre of the petty kingdom of the Gudbrand Valley and as such an important place in terms of religion and politics.

    All this took place at Dale-Gudbrand’s farm. Dale-Gudbrand is a famous historic figure from the 1100s. He is mentioned in multiple Norse sagas, but most famously in the story of Olav the Holy christianising Gudbrandsdalen. You can read the story here. The image above is a drawing of Olav christianising the farmers. 

    Around the farm are five large grave mounds, though sadly one of them was removed. The four remaining are between 23 and 32 metres (75ft and 105ft). Additionally, there’s a square ring of stones and the remains of a round ring of stones, indicating a possible worshipping site.

    Today it is a Pilgrim Centre. There is a small farm shop with local food products and souvenirs. You can also spend the night there if you wish. Click here to visit their website. 

    Harpefoss

    Harpefoss is a small town with a population of 335. The name comes from the railway development in 1896, when the railway station was named Harpefoss. People have lived here for centuries, though, and old names were Skurdal and Ryssland. Harpefoss is the name of the waterfall that separates two hamlets.

    During the railway development, Harpefoss Hotel was built. It is the only hotel left that is one of the original hotels from the railway development period that still stands. It is built in Swiss style with neo-Gothic features. It has long since been closed down as a hotel, and after a period as a country store, the house is now a residence.

    In Harpefoss you can stay in a historic farm! 

    The farm ‘Sygard Grytting’ has belonged to the same family since the 14th century. The current owner is the 16th generation since the year 1534. 

    It’s believed that as far back as Christianity goes, pilgrims would stay at the property on their way towards Nidaros in Trondheim. Because of these, there are unusual details in some of the buildings that are very similar to details found in monasteries. 

    You can stay in historic houses from the 17th century – the same houses the pilgrims stayed in – or buildings from the 19th century. 

    The property is still a working farm. 

    Agriculture specialises in sheep, grain, grass production and forestry. In ancient times, the operation was very versatile and the farm was self-sufficient in most things.

    Sødorp Church

    Sødorp Church is a wooden cruciform church from 1752. It’s believed the first church on the site was a stave church, but it was replaced in 1570 and no trace of it remains today. In 1752, the church was replaced once again with the church we have today.

    Originally the church stood in Sødorp, a small town just south of Vinstra – hence its name. However, Vinstra emerged as a major town in the early 20th century, and it was decided to move the church there. In 1910, the church was moved to its present location. 

    The 18th century church originally had a very high tower, but it was destroyed by wind in 1850. The church then got a stumpy small tower (click here for a photo of it). When it was moved to Vinstra, they made a new high tower for the church. You can see photos of the construction process here, here, and its completion here. 

    Much of the interior is from the 18th century, including the altarpiece, pulpit, choir arch, crucifix and relief figures. The soapstone baptismal font is from the Middle Ages, though.

    In the graveyard you’ll find a memorial stone to the real Peer Gynt. 

    Nord-Fron Municipality

    Nord-Fron is a small municipality with a population of around 5,600. It is home to Skåbu, a village located 870m above sea level. It is Norway’s highest situated rural area with a permanent settlement. The coat-of-arms depicts a Dole Gudbrandsddal horse; the area has a long tradition of horse breeding and is one of the main centres in Norway.

    Kvam

    Kvam is probably most famous for the battles that took place here during World War II. During the military campaign in Norway in 1940, Kvam was the scene of a battle between German and British forces. During the battle, the original Kvam Church (from 1776) was destroyed, along with 70 houses. There is a whole Wiki page to the battles, which you will find here. 

    By Kvam Church is the Peace Park, which is a memorial to the locals killed during World War II. There are also memorials on Stølane (Kvamsfjellet) where Russian soldiers were shot by Germans, and on Hillingen where three Norwegian soldiers lost their lives in a battle against German troops.

    Kvam has a British military cemetery. There is also a museum about World War II, the Gudbrandsdal War Memorial Collection, in town.

    Remember the battle at Otta in 1612 between Norwegian peasants and the Scots? Well, after the battle 134 Scottish prisoners were taken from Otta to Kvam. At Klomstadlåven, most were killed in a massacre. The barn building where they were kept before they were massacred, was destroyed during World War II.

    Kvam currently has a population of 762. Most of the industry has closed down in the last few years.

    Sel Municipality

    Sel’s coat-of-arms depicts a girl playing a trumpet. This represents the local legend about the Prillar-Guri, where in 1612 a Scottish army marched through on its way to Sweden. They were stopped by the farmers at the Battle of Kringen, and legend says that the farmers were made aware of the army’s arrival by a local girl with a trumpet.

    Sel is regarded as one of the more scenic and historically significant areas of the Gudbrandsdalen valley, which a large number of Norway’s heritage-listed farms being here.

    Otta

    In the higher part of the Gudbrandsdlaen valley is the town of Otta. It is the next major town after Lillehammer, and you can find out more via our travel guide. 

    Otta Travel Guide

    Sel Church

    Sel Church is a historic wooden church dating back to 1742. It is not the first church on the site, though. It is believed that the first church here was a wooden stave church built in the 13th century. However, the church has since been rebuilt twice due to the older ones deteriorating.

    Sel

    Sel is a small village with a population of 437. Sel was the main town in the region until Otta was built up around the time the Dovrebanen was completed in the area.

    In Sigrid Undset’s novel about Kristin Lavransdatter, the protagonist grows up at Jørundgard, a medieval farm. The movie was filmed on the property too. Unfortunately the property is now closed to the public.

    Dovre Municipality

    You are starting to get higher into Norway now! Dovre municipality gives its name to the railway line but also the Dovrefjell National Park. The coat-of-arms depicts a muskox. The animal is not native to Norway, but in 1932 ten were released near Dovre. Besides muskox, wild reindeer and wolverines also live in the municipality.

    People have lived at Dovre for around 6,000 years. In the Stone Age, they were primarily hunters and fishermen. Approximately 2000 years ago, the first farms were developed. Dovre is mentioned in the Norse Sagas when King Olav travelled through the area, forcing the locals to either become Christian or suffer death.

    After leaving Dovre, the path becomes more mountainous. As this is located on the Pilgrims Road, many mountain stations were established on the road to accommodate those crossing the mountains to Trondheim.

    Dovre Village

    Dovre is the administrative centre of the municipality. Close to Dovre is Budsjord Pilegrimsgården – hotell Dovre, a historic mountain farm and accommodations for travellers on the Pilgrims Road. The property is mentioned in documents from the 1400s, while the 17 protected buildings are from between the 17th and 19th centuries.

    Dombås

    Dombås is the next major town that you pass through and it is also an important meeting point between east and west. You can read more about Dombås on our travel guide. 

    Dombås Travel Guide

    Fokstugu Fjellstue

    On your left you will pass one of the historic mountain accommodations. The first accommodations on the site were constructed around 1120 by King Øystein Magnusson, wo wanted the pilgrims to have places to stay on their journey. While the farm has been rebuilt multiple times since then, pilgrims heading to Trondheim have always stayed there.

    Today the property is a sheep farm, and it does open in the summer for travellers who want to spend the night there. The farm is run by the 11th generation of the same family who have owned it.

    Hjerkinn

    Hjerkinn is in the Dovrefjell mountains and is one of the driest places in the country, with only 222 millimetres (8.7 inches) in annual precipitation. The train station is an impressive looking building. The Hjerkinn Station is Dovrebanens highest station at 1,017 metres above sea level.

    Hjerkinn is an old rest station with traditions dating back to the 13th century, when pilgrims would travel through the area.

    Trøndelag County

    You now cross into Trøndelag county. 

    Oppdal Municipality

    Oppdal is the first municipality you drive through in Trøndelag. This is a mountainous municipality, with large parts of it in the Dovrefjell. Østfjella and Trollheimen mountains. This is represented in the coat-of-arms.

    125 years ago, Oppdal was a purely agricultural community where the people produced practically everything they needed themselves. Today agriculture is still a significant industry. The sheep industry in Oppdal is the largest in the country with 45,000 sheep here.

    Kongsvoll Mountain Lodge

    Kongsvoll is another historic mountain lodge. The original inn was built in the 12th century, while the oldest parts of the lodge date back to the 18th century.

    Nearby is the Kongsvoll Alpine Garden, run by Trondheim’s university. This is the only alpine botanical garden in Scandinavia.

    Oppdal

    Oppdal is a major town and the administrative centre for the municipality. 

    Oppdal Travel Guide

    Rennebu Municipality

    Rennebu is a mostly mountainous municipality. The coat of arms shows the outline of the local church, Rennebu Church, which is one of the oldest churches in Norway based on a Y-shaped outline. The Trollheimen and Forollhogna National Parks lie in the municipality and the salmon river Orkla flows through it.

    Berkåk

    Berkåk is a small village with a population of around 959. The name comes from the word birch, referring to a prominent type of tree in the area. Every year in August, the Rennebumartnan is hosted in town. It is a sales exhibition for home improvement and handicrafts with around 20,000 visitors.

    Mitre Gauldal

    Mitre Gauldal is primarily an agricultural municipality. Every third person living here works in agriculture. Milk, poultry and eggs are produced here. The coat-of-arms shows a silver crossed Y figure on a green background. The crossed Y has several meanings. First, it symbolises the landscape which is based on the meeting of the two valleys here (Gauldal and Soknedal). The municipality also has a major Y-shaped road and railway junction. Lastly, the Budal Church, dating from 1745, is one of the oldest and few remaining Y-shaped churches in the country.

    Soknedal

    Soknedal is a small village located by the river Sokna.

    Støren

    Støren is the administrative centre of Mitre Gauldal municipality. It is located in the Gauldalen valley where the Gaula and Sokna rivers meet. The Dovrebanen and the Rørosbanen meet here as well.

    Melhus Municipality

    Melhus is the last municipality you pass through before Trondheim. Agriculture is important here, and the valleys are dominated by grain fields. The coat-of-arms symbolise a man called Einar Tambarskjelve, a famous chieftain and archer from Melhus in the 11th century. The entire area of Melhus was known during the Viking Age. It was the site of the first farm Rimul at which Jarl Haakon was killed by his slave, Tormod Kark. Archaeological excavations in the area have uncovered discoveries from the Viking Age. Additionally, 3,000 year old graves have been found.

    Melhus

    Melhus is the administrative centre of the municipality. Melhus is home to the Rimul farm, which is known from the Viking Age. It was the scene of the murder of Håkon Sigurdsson by his slave Tormod Kark, as described in the Saga of King Olav. The farm is still in operation today.

    Hakon had a mistress called Thora at the Rimul farm. Hakon and his slave were seeking shelter in hiding from Olav Tryggvason (founder of Trondheim) and his men, who were at the time searching for him. Thora led them to a pig sty beneath a great stone. Later, after killing the Earls son, Olav Tryggvason arrived at Rimul with a group of local farmers, now supporting him. The story continues in the Norse Sagas:

    Then Olaf held a speech out in the farm, he went up unto a great rock lying near the pig sty. Olaf spoke, and in his speech he said he would reward any man richly who could harm Hákon Earl. The Earl and Kark heard this speech. They had light where they lay. The Earl said: “Why are you so pale, yet sometimes black as dirt? It is not so that you wish to harm me?” “No,” says Kark. “We were born on the same night,” says the Earl. “Close will also our deaths be.”

    Lying in the pig sty at night, Kark killed Hakon. He brought the head to Olav, hoping to collect a reward. Unfortunately, Olav did not respect a slave murdering his own lord. Tormod Kark was himself decapitated. Both heads were put on stakes at Munkholmen for people to spit at.

    Trondheim Municipality

    You now cross into Trondheim municipality, the last municipality for the drive. 

    Trondheim

    You have made it to Trondheim, Norway’s third-largest city. You can read more about Trondheim via our travel guide below. 

    Trondheim Travel Guide

    Continue the drive

    Mo i Rana to Trondheim on the E6

    Continue your drive along the E6 up to the Arctic Circle and Mo i Rana. 

    Mo i Rana to Trondheim

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Brønnøysund, Central Norway, Namsos, Norway's Coastal Road, Road-trips, Rorvik

    Drive it Yourself: The Coastal Road Day 2 – Namsos to Brønnøysund

    Drive it Yourself: The Coastal Road Day 2 – Namsos to Brønnøysund

    On day two of the Norwegian Coastal Road series, you make your way through the back roads first to Rørvik. Rørvik is worth the detour; it is home to the award-winning Coastal Museum and is a perfect way to begin your experience on Norway’s Helgeland Coast. Shortly after joining the Fv17, you’ll begin your journey on the Helgeland Coastal Road.

    In this article...

    Downloadable Version of This Guide

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

    View at the Store

    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Information about facilities along the way

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the region & towns
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Facilities including supermarkets, toilets, petrol, hotels, cafes, restaurants with addresses.

    The drive: Namsos to Brønnoysund via Rørvik

    Namsos

    This drive begins in Namsos, a charming down on Norway’s central coast. 

    Namsos Travel Guide

    Salsnes

    Salsnes is located back on the mainland and is a small village within Namsos municipality.

    Lund - Hofles Ferry

    This is the first of two ferries you’ll take today. You can find a schedule for the ferry by clicking here. 

    Nærøysund

    Nærøysund is a municipality with a population of around 9,700. Rørvik is the administrative centre, which you will arrive at soon. 

    The strait that the road follows is called the Nærøysundet. This straight also runs alongside Rørvik. It is a busy waterway as almost all coastal traffic passes through it, including the Hurtigruten. It is also used as protection for ships waiting for better weather before crossing the open stretch of sea called Folda in the south. 

    The historic trade and church site on Nærøya is named after the Norse Sea god Njord. It is not possible to get to Nærøya today, but it is still nice to know that this area has been important for trade since the Viking times. 

    Nærøysund is Norway’s largest aquaculture municipality as well as a large fishing municipality. Together the seafood businesses have a turnover of NOK 6 billion. Agriculture is also an important source of income for the municipality, with Trøndelag’s third-largest milk production. 

    The winter crayfish fishery at a place called Viknaværene has traditionally been one of the most important fisheries in Norway after the Lofoten fishery. 

    Rørvik

    Located on the Nærøysundet Strait, Rørvik has always been an important port town for coastal traffic.

    Rørvik Travel Guide

    Kolvereid

    This town will be marked on the highway, so you know you’re going the right way if you see signs towards it. Kolvereid is home to the municipality’s culture centre, comprising of a stage and cinema, a sports hall, as well as outdoor sports facilities.

    Gravvik

    Gravvik is a small village that focuses on agriculture and fishing, with fish farms for salmon and halibut important to the community. At Gravvik there is a cave and archaeological site called Fingalshulen. The cave has 47 paintings that are estimated to be about 3000 years old. The cave is closed to the public, though.

    Nordland County

    You now cross into Nordland County, the beginning of Northern Norway. 

    Bindal Municipality

    Bindal is a small municipality within the traditional region of Helgeland. The important industry here is aquaculture, agriculture, forestry, and some Sami reindeer husbandry. The municipality also had a small gold rush in the 1920s, though not much came of it as the amount of gold wasn’t significant enough to commence drilling. Bindal has a long tradition of boat building and the Nordland boards are still built here. Ever since 1978 there have been annual Nordland boat races.

    Holm - Vennesund Ferry

    At Holm you take the ferry across to Vennesund. 

    Sømna Municipality

    Sømna’s main industries are like the rest of your drive – the area focuses on agriculture, forestry, and fishing. Northern Norway’s largest dairy is located here. In fact, Sømna has some of the best agriculture in the region. Archaeological excavations show that people have been here since the early Iron Age. The oldest boat remains ever found in Norway was discovered in a bog in Sømna. The boat is called the Haugvikbåten and is estimated to be 2,500 years old.

    Vik

    In Vik you can visit the Sømna Bygdetun, an open-air museum about the municipality. Vik also has Sømna Church, which is from 1876. However, the earliest church records indicate there has been a church here since at least 1432.

    Brønnøy Municipality

    Brønnøy is the last municipality for the day, with Brønnøysund being the administrative centre. The coat-of-arms depicts a daymark used in the harbour to guide ships, symbolising the importance of the harbour for the municipality. Brønnøy has a varied landscape, from the archipelago on the coast to high mountains in the east. The world’s northernmost naturally occurring linden forest grows here, and there is a boreal rainforest at the Grønlidalen nature reserve.

    The big employers here are the Brønnøysund Register Centre, which is a government service for companies. One of the largest limestone mines in Northern Europe is also located here.

    Brønnøysund

    You have made it to Brønnøysund, the geographical centre of Norway and starting point for the incredible Helgeland Coastal Road. 

    Brønnøysund Travel Guide

    Continue the drive

    Norway's Coastal Road Part 3: Brønnøysund to Sandnessjøen

    See the first part of Norway’s Coastal Road.

    Brønnøysund to Sandnessjøen

    This drive is part of the multi-day series “From Trondheim to the Lofoten Islands & Back Again”, where we travel from Trondheim to Lofoten via the Coastal Road, and then take the E6 back south to Trondheim. You can view the entire drive below. 

    From Trondheim to the Lofoten Islands

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Central Norway, Mo i Rana, Mosjoen

    Why You Should Visit Mosjøen on Your Norwegian Road-trip

    Why You Should Visit Mosjøen on Your Norwegian Road-trip

    During our Norwegian Coastal Road-trip of 2021, I decided on a whim that we should stop in Mosjøen on the long drive between Mo i Rana and Trondheim. I’d heard of the town before and that it was quite beautiful. However, I was totally blown away by how charming and picturesque the town was.

    In this guide, I’ve highlighted the best bits of Mosjøen. The town is perfect for an overnight stop on a road-trip, and there’s plenty in town to keep you busy.

    I think Mosjøen is one of Norway’s best-kept secrets, and after visiting I think you’ll also understand why!

    In this article...

    MoSjØen Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    History of Mosjøen

    Mosjøen is actually the oldest town in the traditional region of Helgeland, so the city is worth visiting if you are interested in historic places.

    The first mention of Mosjøen was in the 15th century, when it was mentioned in a land register. The area around Mosjøen was owned by the archdiocese of Nidaros in Trondheim until the Reformation. After the Reformation in 1537, all church property was transferred to the King. Mosjøen was owned by the Danish King until 1666, when King Frederik II transferred all public property to a man called Joachim Irgens, who was a Danish official and chamberlain to King Frederik III. This was the largest real estate transaction and privatisation in the Nordics ever. After Irgens died, the estate was broken up into several smaller ones.

    In the 18th century, Mosjøen had several merchants living here. They travelled to Bergen to sell their goods until 1794, when the merchant Erik Jorgen Sjursson was given the right to open a trading business and a guesthouse.

    Trade Growth & Market Rights

    In the 19th century, Mosjøen grew to become a small urban community that centered around trade. Those who did not have land to cultivate became artisans or day labourers, and Mosjøen became known for its many shoemakers, blacksmiths, and other craftsmen. Many took part in the Lofoten fishing season and Mosjøen was a meeting place between the Swedes, fishermen, farmers, and Sami.

    The First Industrial Wave

    Mosjøen’s development took an abrupt turn in 1856, when English immigrants founded the English Mill (Engelskbruket). The possibility of building sawmills led to many people settling in Mosjøen to try and make it big in the timber industry.

    The town was transformed into a modern trade and official town. The urban business life developed in the form of book shops, fashion shops, and eateries. By the end of the 19th century, Mosjøen had magazine publishers, pharmacists, photographers, hat makers and tons of eateries.

    The timber industry was not all positive. The forests surrounding Mosjøen were clearly marked by logging and the destruction of the environment. Because of the extensive logging, several farmers were forced to give up their farms and move.

    The timber industry slowed down in Mosjøen around the year 1899.

    World War II

    Mosjøen was captured by the Nazis on the 11th of May 1940. The Nazis used Mosjøen to transport people and goods for warfare to the far north. Several facilities including a Nazi headquarters and military camp were established in the town. During the evacuation of Finnmark in 1944, many evacuees came to Mosjøen.

    Thankfully, Mosjøen is one of the few towns in Northern Norway that was not extensively bombed.

    Second Industrial Period

    After the war, a new kind of industry came to Mosjøen. An aluminium plant opened in 1958 and is by far the largest industrial establishment in the city.

    As you drive into Mosjøen, you may wonder why I recommend it as a place to visit. The outskirts of the town have a very rough, industrial feel. But trust me and head into the city!

    Mosjøen Today

    Today the population of Mosjøen is around 9,812. Along with Narvik and Mo i Rana, Mosjøen is one of the industrial towns of the county Nordland. Mosjøen Aluminiumsverk is amongst the largest aluminium companies in Europe.

    Mosjøen is located in the middle of Sandnessjoen, Mo i Rana and Bronnoysund. It is about halfway between Trondheim and Bodo and is located on the Nordlandsbanen train.

    Sjøgata is one of the most charming streets in Northern Norway

    Sjøgata is the main street of historic Mosjøen. After the establishment of the English sawmill in 1866, Mosjøen turned into a meeting place for the English timber barons, forestry workers, Sami lumberjacks and Swedish mountain farmers who came down to barter, and tailors selling the latest styles from London or Paris.

    Post-war decline

    After World War II, Sjøgata was a street not many went to. It was left run-down and in decline, and many saw it as a disgrace to the town. Living on Sjøgata became synonymous with poverty. The eagerness to tear down Sjøgata was so strong that a slogan “tear everything down” became common in the 1970s. You can’t blame them, though. The post-war years created a huge boom in the population and a need for parking spaces in the city, and Sjøgata was prime real estate.

    Mosjøen

    Restoration

    Thankfully, a few very passionate locals were able to campaign to protect Mosjøen. Even the then Crown Princess Sonja got involved in saving the street.

    The association Lydiabryggas Venner contributed to the building not being demolished and then supported the restoration of all the buildings.

    Today the project is considered a success and Sjøgata is the main reason many people come to Mosjøen. Sjøgata has Northern Norway’s longest continuous settlement of wooden houses and piers from the 19th century. Most of the buildings today are heritage listed and an emphasis has been put on preserving the old building techniques, details and colours.

    Wandering Down Sjøgata

    Thankfully, a few very passionate locals were able to campaign to protect Mosjøen. Even the then Crown Princess Sonja got involved in saving the street.

    The association Lydiabryggas Venner contributed to the building not being demolished and then supported the restoration of all the buildings.

    Today the project is considered a success and Sjøgata is the main reason many people come to Mosjøen. Sjøgata has Northern Norway’s longest continuous settlement of wooden houses and piers from the 19th century. Most of the buildings today are heritage listed and an emphasis has been put on preserving the old building techniques, details and colours.

    Sjøgata

    As you wander down Sjøgata, you’ll be spoiled for choice for the best photograph. Many of these houses are still private residences, so do be respectful of that. However, do take the time to visit some of the local boutiques.

    If you are interested in the history of the buildings, each building has a small sign in Norwegian explaining the history. At the tourist office you can pick up a booklet called The History of a Town that will provide you with an English translation.

    Mosjøen is Home to Northern Norway's Oldest Hotel

    Located at one end of Sjøgata, Fru Haugan Hotel is the oldest hotel in Northern Norway. The hotel opened in 1794, and ever since 1885 the same family has owned the business. It has been run by women for several generations.

    The hotel has a lovely garden and a very nice restaurant called Restaurant Ellen.

    Stay in one of the restored houses

    Some of the houses on Mosjøen have been converted into guesthouses. You can rent them on the following website: https://kulturverkstedet.ipage.no/overnatting/

    Visit the Museums

    In Mosjøen is the Helgeland Museum. Helgeland is the name of the traditional district along the coast; Norway’s Coastal Road is often called the Helgeland Coastal Road because it mostly covers this traditional district. At the museum you’ll learn about the history of the town but also check out the temporary exhibitions, concerts and other events.

    Another the museum is the Vefsn Museum. Vefsn is the name of the municipality that we are in. The museum has local art installations and some hsitory about the area. Close to the museum is the rural building collection, made up of 12 farmhouses, shops and other wooden buildings from the 18th and 19th centuries. Your ticket to the Vefsn Museum includes this outdoor building collection.

    A regional centre for culture

    The building that houses the Kulturverkstedet was built in 1862 by the merchant Jacob C. Jacobsen. The building was the largest and grandest mercantile building in Mosjøen. The building opened in 1984 as a culture house. It has a venue for meetings and conferences, but it also has a café and gallery.

    The Christmas Town of Norway

    The locals in Mosjøen regard themselves as the ‘Christmas town’ of Norway, and around Christmas they host the world’s longest porridge table. The town also hosts plenty of events and stalls around Christmas. They have their own Facebook page, which you can view here: https://www.facebook.com/julebyenmosjoen/

    Try the Famous Coffee!

    Matkollektivet Vikgården is a famous café in Mosjøen because it still brews coffee in the old-fashioned way. The coffee is so tasty (and strong!) The café is housed in a restored grocery store from the 1880s and also has some excellent cinnamon buns.

    Head out for some local food

    Gilles Café is a popular café amongst locals. Otherwise, you can try Blomsterbua for some amazing Italian-style pizzas. But Emma, is Italian really local? Well, probably not. But this is the most popular place for the locals to do. Do as the locals do and get a pizza!

    Inside Fru Haugens Hotel you’ll find a more traditional Norwegian menu at the Restaurant Ellen. Menu items include beef, duck and clipfish.

    Mosjøen

    Explore the great outdoors!

    Mosjøen is perfectly situated if you want to take part in some outdoor activities. Close to the town is the Helgelandstrappa or the Helgeland Stairs, a challenging 3,000 steps laid down by sherpas up the mountain Øyfjellet, which is 800m (2600ft) above the town. It’s worth it for the views!

    Practical Information

    Mosjøen is located just off the European Highway 6, the main highway running through Norway. There is a huge carpark outside Sjøsiden Senter, a shopping mall.

  • Central Norway, European Highways, Mo i Rana, Mosjoen, Road-trips, Trondheim

    Drive it Yourself: E6 from Mo i Rana to Trondheim

    Drive it Yourself: E6 from Mo i Rana to Trondheim

    The E6 (European Highway 6) is the main highway that runs through Norway. This section, from Mo i Rana to Trondheim, runs primarily through the county of Trøndelag. While not as dramatic as some other stretches of road on the E6, it’s the way between central Norway and Northern Norway, and there are some nice places to stop along the way. 

    You’ll probably use this road if you are looking to get to Northern Norway quickly. Sure, the coastal road is much more scenic, but the E6 is much quicker. There are some beautiful spots to stop at along the way, which I’ve done my best to highlight below. 

    In this article...

    Downloadable Version of This Guide

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

    View at the Store

    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Information about facilities along the way

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the region & towns
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Facilities including supermarkets, toilets, petrol, hotels, cafes, restaurants with addresses.

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

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    The E6 Between Mo i Rana & Trondheim

    Mo i Rana

    This drive begins in Mo i Rana. You can find a detailed overview of Mo i Rana on our travel guide. 

    Mo i Rana Travel Guide

    Hemnes Municipality

    Hemnes Municipality is located in Nordland County . The municipality focuses on agriculture, power production, the mechanical industry, wood products and boat building. The coat of arms represents this industry with a boat clamp in gold against a blue backdrop.

    Hemnes has the oldest operating local radio network in Norway, called Radio Korgen, which was established in 1982.

    Finneidfjord

    Village

    Finneidfjord is a small settlement. The name comes from its Sami heritage; Finniedt was a Sami farm first mentioned in 1567. The settlement saw growth starting in 1925 with the establishment of a margarine factory. The margarine factory was very well-known in Norway until it was bought out and closed in 1973. A caviar factory was built on the same site and operated until 2007, when it closed down.

    Bjerka

    Town

    Bjerka is a small town located at the mouth of the river Røssåga. One of the main employers in town is the slaughterhouse, which slaughters cattle, pugs and sheep producing dry beef and pork ribs. Since 2008, it has been the only slaughterhouse in Nordland County. About 90 employees work here.  

    Korgen

    Town

    Korgen is the main town for Hemnes municipality. Many Norwegians have heard of Korgen because of the Korgenfjellet mountain range, which is perfect for skiing. Because of that, the town is quite popular for people staying for a few days to take advantage of the mountains. The tallest mountain in Northern Norway, Oksskolten, is located here. Korgen is also close to the Okstindan Nature and Culture Park.

    The Okstindan Nature and Culture Park is a centre full of hiking trails, ski trails, and history. It includes the “Blood Trail”, which chronicles the Nazi’s attempt to construct a railway to Narvik and the Soviet POWs tasked with building the railway. There are also glaciers and caves to explore.

    You can easily spend a few days here if you love the outdoors. Visit the park website for more detailed information about what you can see and do. https://visitokstindan.com/en/kategori/the-okstindan-nature-and-cultural-park/

    Sandnessjøen

    Sandnessjøen is a charming little town located on the Hegleland Coastal Road (one of Norway’s 18 National Tourist Roads). It’s a lovely place to visit, but the detour can be a little lengthy. It takes about 45 minutes to get there from the E6, but you’d want to spend a little time in the area driving around to see the Seven Sisters and surrounding region.

    You can learn about Sandnessjøen by reading my travel guide (to the left). 

    Sandnessjøen Travel Guide

    Vefsn Municipality

    Vefsn is a municipality with arguably the best coat-of-arms in Norway – a surprised chicken! The name Vefsn comes from the river Vefsna, which flows through the municipality into the Vefsnfjorden. The meaning of the name is unknown.

    The main town centre for Vefsn is Mosjøen, a town a highly recommend visiting on this drive. The landscape is dominated by spruce forests, mountains, lakes, agriculture, and the river.

    This area is very old; there are traces of settlement in Vefsn back to the Stone Age. Among other things, Norway’s oldest skis have been found in Drevja. Vefsn also appears in the story of how Torolv Kveldulvsson demanded the ‘Finn treasure’ in Egils saga, and the road where this supposedly took place is now called “Toraveien”.

    Mosjøen

    Mosjøen is an adorable small town located on the Helgeland coast, and I highly recommend visiting here. It is, in fact, the oldest town in Helgeland (the name of the traditional region in) and the second-oldest town in Nordland County after Bodø. Mosjøen was declared a trading place in 1875 and has historically been an important industrial and transportation town. Many of the original wooden buildings are still standing today, making it a charming town to go walking through.

    mosjøen Travel Guide

    Grane Municipality

    Grane (Sami name: Gaala) is a small municipality within Nordland County. It is located in the southernmost part of Nordland County, and it links Nordland with the next county, Trøndelag. The main town for Grane is Trofors, which we’ll drive through.

    The name Grane comes from an old farm that used to be here. The farm is known from the Middle Ages, but it rose to prominence in the 17th century. The main industries here are agriculture, forestry, and some reindeer husbandry. Grane is one of the southernmost settlements of the Sami people, and about 10 reindeer husbandry units operate here.

    Laksforsen

    Cafe

    Soon after the Grane municipality sign is Laksforsen, a rest stop and cafe. It is located by a waterfall and has lovely views out to Vefsna river. 

    You can visit their website here. 

    Vefsna River

    River

    The Vefsna River (Sami name: Vaapstenjeanoe) is the largest river in Nordland County – about 163km (101 mi) long. The river flows north, not far from the Swedish border. At Mosjøen, the river empties into the Vefsnfjord.

    Historically Vefsna was known for its salmon, but due to a parasite the salmon population have declined. So, while salmon fishing can’t be done here anymore, it is still possible to fish for trout and char. A fishing licence is required to fish here.

    Brønnøysund

    Trofors is located at the junction between the E6 and Highway 73, which runs between Brønnøysund and Sweden. Both are about 40 minutes from this junction, and each is a great detour.

    I’ve covered Brønnøysund at the travel guide section. 

    Brønnøysund Travel Guide

    Trofors

    Village

    Trofors (Sami name: Trovvegarse) is the main centre for Grane. It is located at the main junction between the European Highway 6 and the Norwegian National Road 73, which runs between Brønnøysund and Tårnaby in Sweden. The town is primarily an agricultural town, but there are over 2,000 fishing lakes here too, making it great for fishing.

    Majavatn

    Village

    Majavatn (Sami name: Maajehjaevrie) is a small village at the bottom of Grane municipality. It has a substaintial Sami settlement who work with reindeer husbandry. Majavatn is also known from World War II. There were confrontations between the Germans and the Norwegian citizens at a nearby farm, and many of the Norwegians involved were later executed by Germans at Falstad concentration camp in 1942.

    Crossing into Trøndelag

    County Border

    As you leave Nordland County there is a fun sign over the highway with ‘Trøndelag’ on the side we are going and ‘Nord Norge’ on the opposite side, signifying the boundary between Trøndelag County and Norland County. There is a carpark by the sign so you can take some photos, and there’s also a rest area.

    Trøndelag Municipality

    We have now crossed into Trøndelag County, which is in the central part of Norway. A person from Trøndelag is known as a trønder, which the dialect here is called trøndersk.

    People have lived in Trøndelag for thousands of years, and during the Iron Age Trøndelag was divided into several petty kingdoms, each with their own common law and all sharing the parliament or thing called Frostating. This is sometimes regarded as the first real democracy.

    Trøndelag was well-known during the Viking Age, and many of Norway’s most famous Vikings lived here. Before the capital was moved to Bergen in 1214, Trøndelag was the site of many of the famous palaces and residences of the Kings. When Bergen (and eventually Oslo) became the capital, Trøndelag’s importance in Norway declined. Today Trøndelag is known for its well-preserved Viking history and the Nidaros Cathedral, located in Trondheim.

    The proximity to Sweden has led to conflicts over the years. Trøndelag was briefly ceded to Sweden in 1658 in the Treaty of Roskilde. It was returned to Denmark-Norway after the Treaty of Copenhagen in 1660. Another attempt was made in 1718 by the Swedes to take Trøndelag, but they were not successful.

    Trøndelag has a diverse climate and geography. Along the coast are the largest islands in Norway south of the Arctic Circle. The south-western part of Trøndelag is separated from Norway by large mountain ranges, especially the Dovrefjell and Trollheimen Mountain Ranges. Closer to the Swedish border the land flattens into a high valley, where Røros is located. In the north, there are several large valleys and flatlands. The rivers in Trøndelag are among the best salmon rivers in Eruope.

    The climate varies dramatically depending on where in the county you are. Closer to the sea has a oceanic climate with mild, wet winters, while closer to the Swedish border are some of the lowest temperatures in Norway during winter. Røros, for example, is the only place in south-central Norway to have recorded -50C (-58F). Most of the lowland areas have a humid continental climate, while the inland valleys, hills and highlands have a boreal climate.

    Trøndelag is primarily an agricultural region, with some of the most fertile land in Norway. Most of the production is meat and milk. Other traditional industries are forestry, mining, and fishing. Today Trøndelag has significant hydropower and wind power companies that support power-intensive industries such as the various timber mills. Aquaculture countes for half of Trøndelag’s export value. The oil and gas industry is also significant. Trondheim is a centre for higher education and has the largest educational institution at the country’s largest university, NTNU.

    The region is known for its moonshine homebrew, known as heimbrent. It is officially banned, but the art of producing moonshine has a strong following in parts of Trøndelag. Traditionally the spirit is served mixed with coffee to create a drink called karsk. The official dish is sodd, made from diced sheep or beef meat and meatballs in boiled stock. The Norwegian Grey Troender sheep is an endangered breed of domesticated sheep originally from Trøndelag. There are approximately 50 sheep left, and efforts are being made to revive the breed.

    Nammskogan Municipality

    We are currently in the upper part of the Namdalen valley, and the municipality takes its name from this. The municipality is heavily forested with several large lakes and the river Namsen running through it.

    Namdalen (Sami name: Nååmesjevuemie) is also the name of the traditional district here. There are three towns here: Namsos, Rørvik and Kolvereid. The rest are small villages and settlements. The river Namsen is one of the best salmon rivers in Europe (only the Tana River in Finnmark has a larger catch of salmon). Agriculture and forestry are also, understandable, important to Namdalen. Norway spruce is the main tree species.

    Namsen River

    River

    The Namsen River (Sami name: Nååmesje) is one of the longest rivers in Trøndelag – around 228km (142 mi) long. It has traditionally been used for floating timber down from the forests to the town of Namsos, where the sawmills were located. The river begins in springs in the Børgefjell National Park and travels through the valley, ending at the coast in Namsos. It is considered one fo the best Atlantic Salmon fishing rivers in the world and is often called the ’Queen of Rivers’. Catching salmon that weigh 23kg (51lb) is not unusual.

    Børgefjellet National Park

    National Park (Detour)

    Børgefjellet National Park is a scenic off-the-beaten path national park with high mountains, rivers, and mountain lakes. The landscape has remnants of Sami domestic reindeer herding, which continues still today. It is a place to go fishing or take some lovely hikes. It is a largely undeveloped area with virtually no construction activity. If you do want to spend some time here, you need to be aware of where you are and camp in the area. The park is located in the centre of Norway along the Swedish border and is also home to the Scandinavian Mountain range.

    Brekkvasselv

    Village

    Brekkvasselv is a tiny village in Namsdalen. The village is also known as Ælva, and a person from Brekkvasselv is known as an Ælving. The first peoples settled here in the 20th century, coming from other places in Norway. However, the Sami have been here for thousands of years, and reindeer herding took place in the highlands.

    The people who came here in the 20th century came because they were helping with the construction of the Nordlandsbanen, and if they settled here they were offered free plots of land to build on.

    Grong Municipality

    Grong (Sami name: Kråangke) is a municipality in Trøndelag with Medjå being the main town. The name comes from an old farm, and the first element is an Old Norse word for spruce. This is also represented on the coat-of-arms; the three spruce trees represent the three main villages in the municipality.

    One of the main waterfalls here is Fiskumfoss, an economically important waterfall that is used for power production. There is also a salmon ladder here. A salmon aquarium has been built by the waterfall, where you can sit and eat salmon while watching the waterfall. The building also has the Norwegian Sport Fishing History Museum. Burial mounds are also found throughout the area from the older Iron Age, and there are ancient moose hunting grounds, house foundations, and roads.

    Medjå/Grong

    Village

    We are passing the village of Medjå, which is sometimes called Grong. It is a small village with a petrol station and supermarket.

    Snåsa Municipality

    Snåsa (South Sami: Snåase) is a small but important municipality: it is one of the last strongholds of the seriously endangered Southern Sami language. In Snåsa you’ll find the Saemien Sijte, which is the national museum of South Sami history and culture. The goal of the museum is to strengthen South Sami identity and a sense of community. Next to the museum is a primary school that teaches the South Sami language.

    The coat-of-arms represents a yellow Lady Slipper orchid on a blue background. At least 15 species of orchid have been found growing in Snåsa, and they are known as some of the magnificent orchids in Scandinavia.

    Snåsavatnet / Snåsa Lake

    Lake

    The lake we see straight ahead is Snåsavatnet, the sixth-largest lake in Norway at 122km2 (47 sq mi). The lake reaches depths of up to 186m (610ft) and was made by glacial erosion.

    Egge

    Historic Site (Detour)

    We are passing the exit to Egge. Egge is a known Viking town, and it was home to the powerful chieftains who gathered the peasants to fight against Olav Haraldsson in the Battle of Stiklestad in 1030.

    The museum has a reconstructed manor and fun activities for kids. For the adults, the cultural landscape is preserved and there are a number of hiking trails you can take to enjoy the ancient scenery.

    Click here to read more. 

    Steinkjer Municipality

    Steinkjer is one of the larger municipalities in the region, though its population density is very low, with just 12.6 inhabitants per sq km (33 sq mi). The population has increased by 2.4% over the last 10 years. The coat-of-arms shows a verranjekt, a type of boat that is very common in the area. It’s a new coat-of-arms from 2020.

    The area around Steinkjer is historic – it has been populated since the Stone Age. Rock carvings can be seen in the area, and the oldest are 6,000 years old. During the Viking Age, Steinkjer was an important base and Maere was one of the best known religious places with sacrifices and gatherings before Christianity came to the country.

    The town of Steinkjer was sadly bombed during World War II. The attack destroyed a large part of Steinkjer, and many priceless historic buildings, including the church, were lost. The town was quickly rebuilt after the war with the help of aid from the United States. Much of the architecture found in Steinkjer is from the 1950s and 1960s and is inspired by functionalism. One of the few buildings to survive the bombing is the train station, which is designed in art nouveau.

    Steinkjer is one of the northernmost areas with rich agriculture, allowing large production of grain. You’ll notice as you drive through just how important grain production is to the area. Tall grain silos can be seen all over the landscape.

    Inderøy Municipality

    Inderøy is an agricultural municipality located in North Trøndelag. The municipality has been inhabited since the Middle Ages, and the village of Sakshaug used to be an important political centre. It is home to one of the oldest churches in the area, Old Sakshaug Church, from 1184.

    The coat-of-arms shows the European plaice. The fish was once plentiful int he waters and was one of the main sources of income in the area until around 1940. Fishing is still important to the region. Farming is also very important to the area, and most of the municipality is cultivated. Grass and grain are the most common crops, but strawberries are also common. Most farmers have their own forest, too.

    The population density is 19.4 inhabitants per sq km (50/sq mi). The population has increased by 15.9% over the last 10 years.

    One of the most prominent 20th century Norwegian sculptors, Nils Aas, is from this area.

    Verdal Municipality

    People have lived at Verdal since the Stone Age, and there are farms in the region that are mentioned as far back as the 12th century. The municipality is best known for the site Stiklestad, where we are heading to next.

    A unique word to learn for this area is råning. It refers to all the young people here who are interested in cars. They spend a lot of their time improving or styling their cars and then driving them on a particular route to show them off.

    The economy here is supported by the offshore industry as well as agriculture. Verdal is also known as one of the greatest lottery towns of Norway, with several lottery grand prizes going to people living in Verdal.

    Stiklestad

    Historic Site (Detour)

    Stiklestad is one of the most important religious sites in the country. It is where, in 1030, St. Olav fell in battle during the Battle of Stiklestad. His sainthood arose from this death.

    Today Stiklestad feels like a bit of a tourist trap – they’ve built up all these new centres, exhibitions and hotels in the last 20 years – but there’s still historical interest in visiting here.

    You can read my separate guide to Stiklestad below.

    Stiklestad

    Levanger Town Centre

    Town

    Shortly after the Falstad Centre, we pass turn-offs to Levanger. If you want to visit the main street, just follow signs towards Levanger. I mentioned the history of Levanger town centre in the section about Levanger municipality.

    Munkeby Abbey Ruins

    Historic Site (Detour)

    Just after Levanger town is the turn-off to the ruins of Munkeby Abbey. It’s just a short drive from the E6, and is a nice area to go to stretch your legs.

    The Munkeby Abbey was founded some time between 1150 and 1180 and it was the most northly Cistercian foundation in the world. It was likely built by English monks. The monastery was eventually closed down, though the church was used until 1587.

    Falstad Centre

    WWWII Site (Detour)

    You can visit the Falstad Centre, which is an old concentration camp from World War II. Today it is a museum. Read a more detailed article below. 

    Falstad Centre

    Stjørdal Municipality

    We have arrived in Stjørdal, which has an amazing coat-of-arms! The design is modern but comes from the old medieval seal of Stjørdal, which dates from 1344. The dragon is a symbol of Saint Margaret of Antioch, and the old seal showed Saint Margaret standing on a slain dragon. It has always stood as a symbol for authority, power, and exalted dignity of the region.  Stjørdal is the location of Steinvikholm Castle, a nice detour.

    Steinviksholmen Castle

    Historic Site (Detour)

    How to get here:

    Steinviksholmen is clearly marked on Google Maps. It’s just off the E6 and marked with brown tourist signs the entire way. It’s about 10-15 minutes off the E6.

    The road is very narrow, and you’ll have to watch out for traffic coming the other way.

    —–

    Steinvikholmen Castle is a 16th century castle constructed by Norway’s last Roman Catholic Bishop, Olav Engelbrektsson. After meeting with the Pope, Olav’s resistance to the Danish rule and the Reformation escalated. Steinvikholm was built as the Catholic churches military stronghold. The castle was finished in 1532, but sadly for Olav the Reformation succeeded in 1537 and Olav was forced to flee to Lier. It was the last Catholic stronghold in Norway. When Olav fled, he left Saint Olav’s shrine and other treasures, and they were returned to Nidaros Cathedral in 1568.

    After the Reformation, the site was used as a quarry and some of its masonry was sold off. Since the late 19th century, the site has been owned and operated by the Past Memory Association (Fortidsminneforeningen). It is used as concert hall for a midnight opera, Olav Engelbrektsson, which details the life and struggles of the archbishop. The opera takes place annually.

    Steinvikholm Castle is Norway’s largest structure from the Middle Ages.

    In summer, it is open as a museum. There are also photographs and information boards (Norwegian and English) around the site. You can walk around the fortress for free, but the interior is what costs money. When we visited, we saw lots of kids swimming in the water around the fortress.

    You park on the mainland and pay a small fee (they use Vipps to accept parking payment), and then walk across the bridge (photographed) to the castle. The entrance is on the other side from my photos.

    Even if you aren’t interested in the castle, the surrounding scenery is gorgeous.

    Hell Station

    Train Station

    Hell is a small village by Trondheim Airport. The village has become a bit of a tourist attraction because of its name, which means “luck” in English. In modern Norwegian, the word for “hell” is “helvete”. The sign underneath says “Gods Expedition”, which actually means “Cargo Handling” in English. Stop by the train station and get a photo!

    Malvik Municipality

    Malvik is a small municipality just outside of Trondheim. It is one of the few municipalities in the area seeing population growth, with the population rising 13% of the last 10 years. Many people work in Trondheim. The coat-of-arms shows a black capercaillie, which is a symbol for the rich nature in the area.

    Trondheim Municipality

    Trondheim (South Sami name Tråante) is the third-most populous municipality in Norway, though it’s the fourth largest urban area. The settlement is a known Viking area, and Trondheim itself has many famous monuments from medieval times. There’s so much to say about Trondheim, so you can read a detailed overview by clicking the button below. 

    Trondheim

    We have now arrived in Trondheim! A detailed overview of Trondheim can be found on the travel guide section of The Hidden North. 

    This is the end of our two-week drive from Trondheim to Senja and back again. Be sure to check out our next series, summer in the West Fjords!

    Trondheim Travel Guide

    Previous Drive

    Narvik to Mo i Rana on the E6

    See the previous day’s drive on the E6 between Narvik and Mo i Rana

    Narvik to Mo i Rana

    This drive is part of the multi-day series “From Trondheim to the Lofoten Islands & Back Again”, where we travel from Trondheim to Lofoten via the Coastal Road, and then take the E6 back south to Trondheim. You can view the entire drive below. 

    From Trondheim to the Lofoten Islands

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Central Norway, Norway's Coastal Road, Road-trips, Sandnessjoen, World War II

    Drive it Yourself: The Coastal Road Day 4 – Sandnessjøen – Forøy

    Drive it Yourself: The Coastal Road Day 4 – Sandnessjøen – Forøy

    The Coastal Road that runs from Brønnøysund to Bodø is one of Norway’s 18 national tourist roads. At 433km (269 mi), it is also the longest of all the tourist roads. You can’t do it in one day: some websites will recommend up to a week. In June 2021 Sean (the husband) and I did the coastal road in three days. It definitely felt quick and we couldn’t make all the detours we wanted, but we did it!

    I’ve put together a guide breaking down the coastal road. My guide includes the history & everyday life of the region, plus options for your own customisations. 

    Kystriksveien vs. Helgelandskysten

    The road has two names, and this can be pretty confusing. Kystriksveien begins in Steinkjer just outside Trondheim and provides more options for detours to the islands. 

    On the other hand, Helgelandskysten begins in Holm just south of Brønnøysund, where my guide begins. It features more-so on the one highway, known as the Fv17. 

    When driving the road, the brown tourist signs will follow the path of the Helgelandskysten national tourist road, which is on the Fv17. However, you can get a free guide online for the Kystriksveien. 

    Both roads end in Bodø. 

    Highlights of today’s section

    • This stretch of the road is pure nature: there aren’t many towns or settlements that we pass today, but the scenery is absolutely stunning.
    • On one of the ferries, we cross the Arctic Circle! You will see a marker to indicate where the Arctic Circle is.
    • For those interested in World War II history, we pass one of the remaining coastal forts: Grønsvik

    In this article...

    Download this Guide

    All of our guides can be downloaded via our online store. 

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

    View on Store

    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Information about facilities along the way

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the region & towns
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Facilities including supermarkets, toilets, petrol, hotels, cafes, restaurants with addresses.

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    Visit Our YouTube Channel

    The drive: Sandnessjøen to Forøy

    Sandnessjøen

    Sandnessjøen is a small town on Norway’s coast. Here you’ll find a cosy town centre, some incredible murals, and even some Viking history!

    Sandnessjøen Travel Guide

    Helgeland Bridge

    Bridge

    The Helgeland Bridge is a cable-stayed bright that crosses the Leirfjorden between the mainland and the island of Alsta (where Sandnessjøen is).

    Facts:

    • Built 1989 – 1991
    • Officially opened in July 1991
    • Construction cost 200 million kr
    • Was a toll bridge until 23 June 2005
    • 1,065m (3,494ft) long
    • 12 spans – the longest is 425m (1394ft)
    • Maximum clearance below the sea is 45m (148ft)
    • Foundations extend to a depth of 31m (102ft)
    • In 2010, it was named Norway’s most beautiful bridge

    Leirfjord

    Population (2020): 2294

    Population density 5.1 inhabitants per square kilometre (13 sq/mi).

    Population has increased by 7.2% over the previous 10 years.

    The name comes from the Leirfjorden. The old name of the fjord is probably just Leiri, derived from the river Leira, which has its mouth at the end of the fjord. Leirr means ‘clay’. The Leirfjord is 20km (12 mi) long.

    The coat of arms represents forestry and agriculture in the municipality. Those are the main industries, along with fish processing.

    Levang - Nesna Ferry

    Ferry

    Levang is a small settlement. We are here to take the ferry to Nesna. 
    Timetable (PDF)

    Nesna

    Nesna is a small town with a population of 1761 spread over the municipality. The town has a long history of education, and one of the first higher education centres for teachers was here. The college, Nesna University College, is still in the town.

    Nesna Church is from 1880, though the earliest existing church is from 1589. Nesna is one of the ports of call on the Hurtigruten: the northbound ferry arrives at 5:30pm and the southbound at 11:15pm.

    Roadside Stops

    Scenic Overlooks

    The stretch of road between Nesna and Myklebustad is gorgeous. The best photo stops are on the opposite side of the road, and the best views are behind you. Trust your instinct and stop as much as possible!

    Rana Municipality

    This is the third largest municipality in Northern Norway (4,460km2 or 1,720 sq mi).

    Population 26,083 (2021) with a population density of 6.2 inhabitants per sq km (16/sq mi).

    Population has increased by 3.6% over the past 10 years.

    Most of the population lives in Mo i Rana.

    The name Rana is either Norse or Sami origin. It may come from the Norse river name Raðund, with Raðr meaning ‘fast’. The name is also associated with the Ume Sami legend of Sala Niejta (“daughter of the sun”) and Rana Niejta (“daughter of the earth”). In that case, Rana was the summer’s green ground for the reindeer husbandry. A Sami settlement near the Swedish border was called “Ranbyen”.

    The municipality is located just south of the Arctic circle, on the southern side of the Saltfjellet mountains. The main city Mo i Rana is so close to the Arctic Circle that parts of the sun are continuously over the horizon from early June to early July. There is no true polar night, though. There is often a lot of snow here in the winter, while summer days are among the warmest in Northern Norway.

    Rana municipality is rich in iron ore and has an industrial history dating back to 1799. The coat-of arms represent the forest (green) and the wealth of minerals (yellow). The Mo Industrial Park is from 1991 and was a result of the restructuring of the Norwegian Ironworks.

    Sjona Church

    Church

    On the right is Sjona Church. This church is from 1896 and was built as a small chapel. In 2003, the chapel was upgraded to full parish church status. It seats about 170 people. 

    Lurøy Municipality

    The municipality has a population of 1,890 with a density of 7.3 inhabitants per square kilometre (19/sq mi). The population has decreased by 0.5% over the last 10 years.

    Lurøy municipality is located just south of the Arctic Circle. The Lurøygården farm on the island of Lurøya is more than 200 years old and has a renaissance-style garden.

    Stokkvågen

    Village

    Stokkvågen is where you can take a ferry out to the islands that are part of Lerøy municipality. You don’t take a ferry here – keep going straight!

    Grønsvik Coastal Fort

    Historic Site

    The Grønsvik coastal fort was built by Soviet prisoners of war in the period 1942 to 1945 as part of the Atlantic Wall. The Atlantic Wall was designed to protect the German occupied territory from the British and American attacks.

    The main task of the fort was to defend the fjord areas towards Mo i Rana and Mosjøen, thus protecting the main road (now the E6) and the Nordlandsbanen (Nordland Railway) from attack.

    The main equipment at the Grønsvik fortress was four 155mm field cannons of French origin. The fort had ship cannons and could follow sea targets.

    After the war, the fort was subject to major damage. Most of the equipment was repurposed, while the cannons were melted down.

    Today it has been partly rebuilt and is now a museum. The exhibitions inside educated about World War II in this part of Norway. Outside you can follow marked trails to explore the ruins of the fort. There are information boards explaining what everything was. There is a memorial to the 77 Soviet and 65 Polish prisoners of war who were forced to participate in the construction of the fort.

    The indoor exhibitions are open in summer, while the surrounding area is open and free to walk around throughout the year.

    Kleivhalsen

    Scenic Overlook

    Park your car here and walk up the hill to get some amazing photos.

    Kilborghavn - Jektvik

    Ferry

    The ferry journey takes a little over an hour. Normally the staff onboard will announce when you cross the Arctic Circle, and you’ll see the globe by the water!


    Timetable (PDF)

    Ågskardet - Forøy

    Ferry

    It’s time for the last ferry of the day! This ferry takes you to Forøy, where the day’s tour ends. 

    We spent the night at a nearby campground before continuing north to our final destination, Bodø. 


    Timetable (PDF)

    Continue the drive

    Norway's Coastal Road Part 5: Forøy to Bodø

    Be sure to take the final stretch of the Coastal Road, which goes all the way to Bodø.

    Forøy to Bodø

    Previous Route

    Norway's Coastal Road Part 3: Brønnøysund - Sandnessjøen

    The previous day, we drove from Brønnøysund to Sandnessjøen on the second part of the coastal road. 

    Brønnøysund to Sandnessjøen

    This drive is part of the multi-day series “From Trondheim to the Lofoten Islands & Back Again”, where we travel from Trondheim to Lofoten via the Coastal Road, and then take the E6 back south to Trondheim. You can view the entire drive below. 

    From Trondheim to the Lofoten Islands

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Hurtigruten, Sandnessjoen, Walking Guides

    Sandnessjøen Self-Guided Walking Tour

    Sandnessjøen Self-Guided Walk

    Sandnessjøen is a small town located on the Helgeland coast. While many may use Sandnessjøen as a stop on a longer and more scenic road-trip, there are some lovely points of interests to see here. The town was a Viking seat, and the recreated longhouse Torolvstein will tell you all about Sandnessjøen’s most famous Viking. Additionally, the town is seeing growth and renewed interest thanks to the oil industry. So, spend the night in Sandnessjøen and see the town’s highlights on this self-guided walking tour!

    In this article...

    Sandnessjøen Travel Guide

    Sandnessjøen Self-Guided Walk

    Kulturbadet

    The Kulturbadet is the building in Sandnessjøen that has a swimming pool, cinema, library, theatre and concert hall, and meeting rooms. It is a new building from 2016. When the building was being planned, a competition was held for who would be the architect. The L2 Arkitektur firm in Oslo won with their draft called “Sky Blue”.

    Street Art: Future Eyes

    Jort Agoch, Leticia Cascone Ruiz (2016)

    The town has recently been decorated with murals to boost tourism. The murals reflect life in Sandnessjøen. It was designed to liven up the grey buildings, and the artwork is inspired by the local children.

    Torolv Kveldulvsons gate

    The street is named after the famous Viking Torolv Kveldulvsson, who lived in Sandnes. He is known as the first exporter of stockfish from the north. Egil’s saga tells that in the time around 875 “he sent people north to the town of Vagar in Hålogaland (now Vågan) on cod fishing and also went with fish to England”.

    This street has the main shopping mall, Amfi, plus some restaurants and businesses.

    Petter Dass Statue

    Petter Dass (1647 – 1707) was a Lutheran priest and the foremost Norwegian poet of his generation, writing Baroque hymns and poetry. He was appointed the parish priest at Alstahaug Church in 1689. He wrote texts and hymns, but many weren’t published until after his death.

    His most famous work is a topographical description of Northern Norway called “The Trumpet of Nordland”. Some of his psalms are still in use.

    After Petter Dass died, many Norwegian fishing vessels of Northern Norway carried a black cloth on their sail for 100 years as a sign of mourning. He is still a popular subject of folklore in Nordland. For example, there is a legend of how he fooled the devil to carry him to Copenhagen to preach for the king.

    There is only one known portrait of him, but many doubt if it was him. Still, it was used as the basis for this sculpture.

    The Petter Dass Museum is located a short drive from Sandnessjøen.

    The Seven Sisters

    This statue on the side of an otherwise very dull office building symbolises what Sandnessjøen is most famous for: The Seven Sisters. This is a mountain chain with seven peaks, and it’s based off a story of the seven troll sisters who were chased by a very eager male troll. They all turned to stone in the sun, forming the mountains. You will be able to see the Seven Sisters during this walk, but the best views are when you drive out of the town.

    Optional Detour: Sandnessjøen Church

    The earliest existing historical record of the church goes back to the year 1240, when the church was mentioned in a saga. The original church wa slocated about 2km (1.2 mi) southeast of the present church site. In 1644, the old church was torn down and a new church was built on the same site.

    In 1882 the church was torn down and replaced. Some of the materials were used in the new construction.

    TV Tower

    This is the TV-tower in Sandnessjøen. It is often decorated with lights on special occasions, such as new year’s eve and the main festival in Sandnessjøen, Havnafestivalen.

    Fortress & Bunker Area

    There is very little information about the fortress area. It was home to the Artillery Group Sandnessjøen. There were 7 Heeres Küsten Batteries and 3 Marine Artillery Batteries in the group.

    The battery was set up in 1940.

    There are information signs on all the main sights that you can read.

    Torolvstein

    During the Viking Age, this was one of Northern Norway’s largest and most powerful chieftain seats. At this building you can learn about Norwegian Viking History with the key figures from Sandnessjøen, Torolv Kveldulvson and Sigrid of Sandnes. The area around Sandes was one of the best documented areas from the Viking Age.

    The long house was very common in Norway during the Iron Age. They were long houses built to accommodate both housing and livestock. Longhouses throughout the Nordic region are made up of a log system.

    The building is located on almost the same site as the old chieftain seat from 1,000 years ago.

    Enjoy More of Sandnessjøen

    Visit the travel guide page to see road-trips, restaurants, and top activities that you can do. 

    Sandnessjøen Travel Guide
  • Brønnøysund, Central Norway, Road-trips, Sandnessjoen

    Drive it Yourself: The Coastal Road Day 3 – Brønnøysund – Sandnessjøen

    Drive it Yourself: The Coastal Road Day 3 – Brønnøysund – Sandnessjøen

    The Coastal Road that runs from Brønnøysund to Bodø is one of Norway’s 18 national tourist roads. At 433km (269 mi), it is also the longest of all the tourist roads. You can’t do it in one day: some websites will recommend up to a week. In June 2021 Sean (the husband) and I did the coastal road in three days. It definitely felt quick and we couldn’t make all the detours we wanted, but we did it!

    I’ve put together a guide breaking down the coastal road. My guide includes the history & everyday life of the region, plus options for your own customisations.

     

    Kystriksveien vs. Helgelandskysten

    The road has two names, and this can be pretty confusing. Kystriksveien begins in Steinkjer just outside Trondheim and provides more options for detours to the islands.

    On the other hand, Helgelandskysten begins in Holm just south of Brønnøysund, where my guide begins. It features more-so on the one highway, known as the Fv17.

    When driving the road, the brown tourist signs will follow the path of the Helgelandskysten national tourist road, which is on the Fv17. However, you can get a free guide online for the Kystriksveien.

    Both roads end in Bodø.

     

    Highlights of today’s section

    • You will get spectacular views of the Seven Sisters for most of the day
    • You can take a detour to the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Vega Islands
    • Pass historic Tjøtta, known for its old church and connection to Petter Dass.
    • The drive is not long, so you have the afternoon to explore Sandnessjøen

    In this article...

    Download this Guide

    All of our guides can be downloaded via our online store. 

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

    View on Store

    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Information about facilities along the way

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the region & towns
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Facilities including supermarkets, toilets, petrol, hotels, cafes, restaurants with addresses.

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    Visit Our YouTube Channel

    The drive: Brønnøysund to Sandnessjøen

    Brønnøysund

    Located on the coast and surrounded by islands, Brønnøysund is a fitting place to begin your coastal road-trip. The town (pop. 5,000) has some wonderful hiking trails in the nearby area. You can visit a fish farm at the Norsk Havbruksenter or try some locally grown herbs and wine at Hildurs Urterarium.

    My travel guide for Brønnøysund can be found via the link below.

    Brønnøysund Travel Guide

    Vega Islands

    UNESCO Site/Detour

    The Vega Islands are a collection of small islands on the UNESCO World Heritage list. They are protected due to the unique relationship between the inhabitants and the eider ducks. The collection of eider down has taken place here for thousands of years. If you are visiting in summer, Vega is a great place to visit. They have a visitor centre that does tours in the summer. The ferries don’t run frequently, so you will need to make a whole day out of visiting Vega.

    The ferry to Vega leaves from the same spot where we’ll be taking the ferry to Andalsvågen.


    Click here for more information about the Vega Islands

    Horn - Åndalsvågen

    Ferry

    There are many ferries when doing the coastal road, so they are impossible to ignore. While it may seem daunting at first to take a ferry in Norway, the process is very easy and you’ll be a master of it by the time your drive is over!

    You drive onboard and your e-tag is scanned by a staff member. No need to do anything. The ferry journey takes 20 minutes.


    Ferry overview

    Vevelstad

    Vevelstad is part of the traditional Helgeland region. The municipality gets its name from the old Vevelstad Church. Rock carvings indicate that people have been here since the Stone Age. The main industries are agriculture, fish, fish processing and timber. Agriculture is based on cattle and sheep farming. There are no towns in the municipality, just scattered settlements. The population has declined by 60% ever since the municipality was established in 1916.

    Leknes

    Village

    If you have a bit of time to wait between ferries, there are some fun things to do in Vevelstad:

    • Visit Vevelstad Church: The church is from 1796 and seats about 250 people. When the church was renovated in 1871, many of the original items were sold or disappeared. One of the old bells can be found on a farm in Lofoten!
    • Vevelstad Museum: Behind the church is an open-air museum about the old farming traditions of Vevelstad. Click here to visit their website.
    • Handelstedet Forvik: The old trading place (Handelstedet) has been here for over 200 years, and it is one of Northern Norway’s oldest trading places. There is a lovely café and restaurant inside, and there are even five rooms available for rent. Click here to visit their website. 

    Forvik - Tjøtta

    Ferry

    Welcome to ferry number two! You have to time this one well with the first ferry. We didn’t, and we got stuck in Forvik for almost two hours. There’s no other way out of Forvik, and once you’ve visited everything mentioned above, you’re kinda stuck.

    This ferry takes just under an hour, so it’s a great opportunity to stretch your legs, have a coffee, and admire the views of the Seven Sisters.  Be sure to go and spot them! This is a great way to get a photo of the mountain peaks.


    Ferry overview

    Alstahaug

    Alstahaug is perhaps best known for the mountain chain The Seven Sisters, which is reflected in the coat of arms. The name comes from a farm, close to where the medieval Alstahaug Church is located. There has been a continuous settlement here since the Iron Age, and Alstahaug was a known place during the Viking Age.

    Alstahuag has long traditions in agriculture and aquaculture. There is also some oil industry here.

    Tjøtta

    Village

    As soon as you get off the ferry, you’ll be in the village of Tjøtta. This small community has a ton of history: Tjøtta is mentioned in the Heimskringla (Norse sagas) many times. It was the home of one of the most famous chieftains, Harek of Tjøtta. He was one of the leaders of the peasant army which killed Olav Haraldsson (later St. Olav). There is archaeological evidence of a settlement back to the Iron Age, and Tjøtta farm is the largest medieval farm in Northern Norway.

    Tjøtta International War Cemetery

    Historic Site

    The Tjøtta War Cemetery was established in 1970 as a place to bury victims of a huge tragedy during World War II. The Rigel sunk off the coast of Tjøtta on 27 November 1944. This tragedy killed more than 2,500 Soviet, Polish and Serbian prisoners of war, Norwegian prisoners and German deserters, German soldiers and Norwegian crew members. A total of 8,000 victims are buried here. It was Norway’s largest ship tragedy. The graves are anonymous, but there is a memorial stone here.

    The Seven Sisters

    Mountain Range

    The highlight of this drive is the Seven Sisters mountain, which you will see for most of the drive. But after Tjøtta, you’ll start getting some fantastic views of the mountains.

    The name ‘Seven Sisters’ (Syv søstre) comes from a famous troll legend. The seven sisters were troll sisters who were kept under the strict control of their father, Suliskongen. One night he fell into a deep sleep, and the troll sisters decided to sneak out – as young girls do!

    However, lying in wait was the Vågekallen, a big and powerful troll who was eager for a wife. He began to chase them, hoping to capture one (or more) of them. Eventually other trolls joined the chase, attempting to save the sisters.

    All of them had forgotten that when the sun comes out, they turn to stone. When the morning came, the troll sisters and their pursuers were petrified. They became the mountains that today form the Helgeland Coast. Many of the mountains you’ll pass on this trip are mentioned in this (or a similar) story.

    Hiking the Seven Sisters

    You can hike all the mountains in one day, but it’s only recommended for experienced hikers. The Norwegian Trekking Association estimates that it’ll take 13 hours to do.

    The mountains can be hiked individually, and Stortinden (910m) is considered the easiest one to hike.

    Want to get a good photo? This area is not the best spot. The best thing to do is get on a ferry and head out to an island off the coast of Sandnessjøen. I’ll show you how to do that in this guide 🙂

    Alstahaug Church & the Petter Dass Museum

    Historic Site

    The next stop is Alstahaug Church, perhaps one of the most famous churches in the region. It was built in the 12th or 13th century, and is considered one of the finest medieval churches in Northern Norway.

    Next to the church is a museum dedicated to Petter Dass. This is probably a museum more for Norwegians than visitors, because Petter Dass is well-known in Norway. He was a Lutheran priest and is considered to be the foremost Norwegian poet of his generation. He wrote baroque hymns and poetry about the Helgeland coast, which is famous today. The museum chronicles his life and work.

    Even if you aren’t interested in learning about Petter Dass, I recommend stopping to admire the beautiful Alstahaug Church, where he worked.

    Søvik - Herøy

    Ferry

    Another ferry! This ferry pier has many different ferries coming in and out, so make sure you are taking the one to Herøy – it’s often the biggest line. The ferry takes about 25 minutes and has some lovely views out to the Seven Sisters.


    Timetable (PDF)

    Herøy Municipality

    Welcome to the islands! You are in the municipality of Herøy, and there are about 1,700 islands here. The population here is 1,777. Likely due to the industrial activity here, the population has increased by 9.8% over the last 10 years.

    Herøy has a population of 1,777.

    The main industries are fishing, fish farming, and processing activities associated with this. Other important industries are agriculture (mostly sheep), transportation, services industries and tourism. Tourism is especially rising in Herøy, mostly due to its proximity to the Coastal Road. Also, the growth in popularity of the Vega Islands, which are close by, has contributed to Herøy’s growth. Herøy also has the best view out to the Seven Sisters, so a lot of people come here just to get a good photo.

    There is only one school here, and it is for primary and junior high. All upper secondary school students must commute to Sandnessjøen to attend school.

    There are many outdoor activities in Herøy, and the area has even been featured on national television to promote its kayaking. The roads here are also ideal for cyclists. There are many great walks on the mountains.

    There has been a lot of discussion about a bridge to the mainland – the two municipalities on the islands (Herøy and Dønna) are the largest in Norway without a connection to the mainland. Bridges and tunnels have been discussed many times, and it will likely be an underwater tunnel that’s built. However, it will take around 30 years to see it completed.

     

    Herøy Church

    Church

    The oldest church on the island is Herøy Church, which is from the 12th century. It’s located on the main road very close to the Herøy pier. The building has undergone serious changes since its construction, and now most of the church is built in stone.

    Dønna Municipality

    Dønna and Herøy are connected via the Åkviksundet Bridge, making Dønna a separate island. Dønna is made up of a large archipelago consisting of islands, islets and reefs. The population has decreased here by 4.2% over the last 10 years. The name comes from the farm Dønnes, and it means ‘rumble’ or ‘roar’ (probably referring to the swell of the waves). Much of the industry here focuses on fishing, aquaculture, and fish processing.

    The area is very historic, especially around Dønnes Farm. There are burial grounds from the Iron Age and Roman Iron Age. Northern Europe’s largest phallus is also located here, which is a fun little fact! It’s to honour the Norse gods Njord and Nerthus and is believed to be 1,600 years old. There are also burial mounds from the Viking Age.

    Many known people are from Dønna, including Gjeble Pederssøn (1490-1557), the first Lutheran Bishop in Norway and Petter Dass, whose museum we visited earlier.

    Dønna - Sandnessjøen

    Ferry

    Our last ferry of the day takes us to Sandnessjøen city centre, where this driving guide ends!

    You can view all my information about Sandnessjøen below.


    Timetable (PDF)

    Sandnessjøen

    You have made it to Sandnessjøen! This is a great place to spend the night as there are decent accommodation options, places to walk and things to see.

    You can find all my information for Sandnessjøen on my travel guide page. 

    Sandnesjøen Travel Guide

    Continue the drive

    Norway's Coastal Road Part 4: Sandnessjøen to Forøy

    See the next part of Norway’s Coastal Road.

    Sandnessjøen to Forøy

    Previous Route

    Norway's Coastal Road Part 2: Namsos to Brønnøysund

    Explore the rugged central Norwegian coast!

    Trondheim to Namsos

    This drive is part of the multi-day series “From Trondheim to the Lofoten Islands & Back Again”, where we travel from Trondheim to Lofoten via the Coastal Road, and then take the E6 back south to Trondheim. You can view the entire drive below. 

    From Trondheim to the Lofoten Islands

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Central Norway, Namsos, Norway's Coastal Road, Road-trips, Trondheim

    Drive it Yourself: Trondheim to Namsos on the E6

    Drive it Yourself: Trondheim to Namsos on the E6

    Welcome to my guide for the drive between Trondheim and Namsos. This drive primarily takes place on the European Highway 6, which runs practically the entire length of Norway. It is also partly the beginning of Norway’s coastal road (Kystriksveien), a famous scenic drive along a huge part of the coastline.

    While this drive may at first seem a little dull, there’s a lot of interesting places to visit along the way. There are sites that are important to Norway’s early Christianity years – Stiklestad, Munkeby Abbey. There are also historically significant places, such as Falstad ant Steinviksholm. Each place is a short detour off the E6 and a great way to break up the drive.

    Enjoy my guide to driving on the E6 (and Fv17) between Trondheim and Namsos!

    In this article...

    Download this Guide

    All of our guides can be downloaded via our online store. 

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

    Coming soon.

    View on Store

    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Information about facilities along the way

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the region & towns
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Facilities including supermarkets, toilets, petrol, hotels, cafes, restaurants with addresses.

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    Visit Our YouTube Channel

    The Drive: Trondheim to Namsos

    Trondheim

    This drive begins in historic Trondheim. You can easily spend a few days here – read my travel guide for more information. 

    Trondheim Travel Guide

    Hell Train Station

    Station

    For a fun photo stop, visit Hell train station just next to the Trondheim Airport. Hell in Norwegian means ‘luck’, but for us non-Norwegians, it’s kinda funny.

    Skatval Church

    Church

    You’ll see Skatval Church on the right-hand side as you leave the Trondheim Airport area. This is a beautiful church in the Swiss chalet style, which is fairly unique for churches in Norway.

    The church is from 1901 and seats about 440 people. The site has been used for churches for hundreds of years, and the first church on this site was possibly a stave church, but little is known about it. Another church was established here in the 17th century, and it survived until 1767, when it was torn down and replaced. In 1901, the church was replaced with a larger church.

    Steinviksholmen Castle

    Historic Site

    How to get here:

    Steinviksholmen is clearly marked on Google Maps. It’s just off the E6 and marked with brown tourist signs the entire way. It’s about 10-15 minutes off the E6.

    The road is very narrow, and you’ll have to watch out for traffic coming the other way.

    —–

    Steinvikholmen Castle is a 16th century castle constructed by Norway’s last Roman Catholic Bishop, Olav Engelbrektsson. After meeting with the Pope, Olav’s resistance to the Danish rule and the Reformation escalated. Steinvikholm was built as the Catholic churches military stronghold. The castle was finished in 1532, but sadly for Olav the Reformation succeeded in 1537 and Olav was forced to flee to Lier. It was the last Catholic stronghold in Norway. When Olav fled, he left Saint Olav’s shrine and other treasures, and they were returned to Nidaros Cathedral in 1568.

    After the Reformation, the site was used as a quarry and some of its masonry was sold off. Since the late 19th century, the site has been owned and operated by the Past Memory Association (Fortidsminneforeningen). It is used as concert hall for a midnight opera, Olav Engelbrektsson, which details the life and struggles of the archbishop. The opera takes place annually.

    Steinvikholm Castle is Norway’s largest structure from the Middle Ages.

    In summer, it is open as a museum. There are also photographs and information boards (Norwegian and English) around the site. You can walk around the fortress for free, but the interior is what costs money. When we visited, we saw lots of kids swimming in the water around the fortress.

    You park on the mainland and pay a small fee (they use Vipps to accept parking payment), and then walk across the bridge (photographed) to the castle. The entrance is on the other side from my photos.

    Even if you aren’t interested in the castle, the surrounding scenery is gorgeous.

    Levanger Municipality

    Levanger is a very old region, and it’s possibly a settlement from the Iron Age. Levanger is known from the Viking Age, as it is mentioned in the old sagas when it was ruled by a chieftain. Evidence of the Viking Age is found around the municipality in the form of burial mounds. The one by Alstadhaug Church, called Alvshaugen, is from 300-600 CE.

    Historically, Levanger was an important marketplace between Norway and Sweden. The town was ‘founded’ by King Charles XIV of Sweden on 18 May 1836, but there was an already well-established village. The market had been taking place there since the 13th century.

    Throughout the 19th century, the famous market’s economic importance faced, and it became more of a tradition than a viable market. When Norway was occupied during World War II, the German forces put a stop to the market. It was not until 1989 that the market was resumed, and it still takes place today. Still, it’s not important as it was pre-19th century.

    Today Levanger is also a working municipality. The world’s largest paper producing company, Norske Skog, had its first ever factory in Skogn. The factory is still there today and provides 530 jobs at the plant, plus 1900 jobs in transportation and forestry. Additionally, Levanger is an excellent area for agrictulture. The town has a hospital and a branch of Nord University.

    If you are looking for a place to visit, I recommend going to Alstahaug medieval church to see both the church and the Alvshaugen burial mound. If you want to go for a nice walk, consider visiting the Munkeby Abbey ruins and the Viking Age gravemounds at Gjeite. As you can see, there’s a lot to do here!

    We visit the Falstad concentration camp on this drive, but on the map I’ve included the above attractions.

    Vuddu Valley

    Restaurant

    Vuddu Valley is a unique place to stop for a meal. It’s completely inspired by the 1960s U.S. diners. The Norwegian owners bought a blue pickup truck in North Carolina, and it has served as inspiration for their diner. Additionally, they have a small museum with items mostly from the 1950s and 1960s.

    Click here to visit their website. 

    Frostatinget

    Historic Site

    This was an early Norwegian court that made up one of the four major “things” in Norway. It is arguably Norway’s oldest court, predating the Viking period. This is where chieftains would meet to discuss laws and events. The site has a huge stone marker on it.

    Falstad Centre

    Historic Site

    In the video, I go to Falstad concentration camp. It’s one of the most complete camps left in Norway, and today it is a memorial and information centre.

    I’ve written a separate article about Falstad Centre, which you can view via the button below.

    Falstad Centre

    Levanger

    Town

    Shortly after the Falstad Centre, we pass turn-offs to Levanger. If you want to visit the main street, just follow signs towards Levanger. I mentioned the history of Levanger town centre in the section about Levanger municipality.

    Munkeby Abbey Ruins

    Historic Site

    Just after Levanger town is the turn-off to the ruins of Munkeby Abbey. It’s just a short drive from the E6, and is a nice area to go to stretch your legs.

    The Munkeby Abbey was founded some time between 1150 and 1180 and it was the most northly Cistercian foundation in the world. It was likely built by English monks. The monastery was eventually closed down, though the church was used until 1587.

    Verdal Municipality

    People have lived at Verdal since the Stone Age, and there are farms in the region that are mentioned as far back as the 12th century. The municipality is best known for the site Stiklestad, where we are heading to next.

    A unique word to learn for this area is råning. It refers to all the young people here who are interested in cars. They spend a lot of their time improving or styling their cars and then driving them on a particular route to show them off.

    The economy here is supported by the offshore industry as well as agriculture. Verdal is also known as one of the greatest lottery towns of Norway, with several lottery grand prizes going to people living in Verdal.

    Stikelstad

    Historic Site

    Stiklestad is one of the most important religious sites in the country. It is where, in 1030, St. Olav fell in battle during the Battle of Stiklestad. His sainthood arose from this death.

    Today Stiklestad feels like a bit of a tourist trap – they’ve built up all these new centres, exhibitions and hotels in the last 20 years – but there’s still historical interest in visiting here.

    You can read my separate guide to Stiklestad below.

    Stiklestad

    Inderøy Municipality

    Inderøy is an agricultural municipality located in North Trøndelag. The municipality has been inhabited since the Middle Ages, and the village of Sakshaug used to be an important political centre. It is home to one of the oldest churches in the area, Old Sakshaug Church, from 1184.

    The coat-of-arms shows the European plaice. The fish was once plentiful int he waters and was one of the main sources of income in the area until around 1940. Fishing is still important to the region. Farming is also very important to the area, and most of the municipality is cultivated. Grass and grain are the most common crops, but strawberries are also common. Most farmers have their own forest, too.

    The population density is 19.4 inhabitants per sq km (50/sq mi). The population has increased by 15.9% over the last 10 years.

    One of the most prominent 20th century Norwegian sculptors, Nils Aas, is from this area.

    Old Sakshaug Church

    Church

    The church is about 12 minutes off the E6, and it’s in the middle of Sakshaug village. Old Sakshaug church was built between 1150 and 1180, and it is one of the oldest churches in Trøndelag county. The choir is the oldest part of the building. The choir was ‘modernised’ with Gothic details in the 1200s.

    Steinkjer Municipality

    Steinkjer is one of the larger municipalities in the region, though its population density is very low, with just 12.6 inhabitants per sq km (33 sq mi). The population has increased by 2.4% over the last 10 years. The coat-of-arms shows a verranjekt, a type of boat that is very common in the area. It’s a new coat-of-arms from 2020.

    The area around Steinkjer is historic – it has been populated since the Stone Age. Rock carvings can be seen in the area, and the oldest are 6,000 years old. During the Viking Age, Steinkjer was an important base and Maere was one of the best known religious places with sacrifices and gatherings before Christianity came to the country.

    The town of Steinkjer was sadly bombed during World War II. The attack destroyed a large part of Steinkjer, and many priceless historic buildings, including the church, were lost. The town was quickly rebuilt after the war with the help of aid from the United States. Much of the architecture found in Steinkjer is from the 1950s and 1960s and is inspired by functionalism. One of the few buildings to survive the bombing is the train station, which is designed in art nouveau.

    Steinkjer is one of the northernmost areas with rich agriculture, allowing large production of grain. You’ll notice as you drive through just how important grain production is to the area. Tall grain silos can be seen all over the landscape.

    The oldest church in the area is Maere Church. It’s just a few minutes off the E6, so we visit it.

    Mære Church

    Historic Site

    In the early Viking Age, according to the Sagas, Mære was one of the most important religious ceremonial places, with sacrifices to the Norse gods.

    The stone church was built in a long church style during the 12th century by an unknown architect. It’s noted for its medieval roof featuring the carvings of heads projecting form the top of its walls. Coins dating from the reign of King Sverre (1183-1202) have been found during excavations.

    Under the church are traces of the ‘hof’ (pagan worshipping site) that used to be on the side. It was uncovered during the 1950s and is the only case in Norway of a pre-Christian building being found to have existed on the site of a church. The nature of that structure was not clear.

    The church is just a few minutes off the E6. There is a huge parking lot outside the agricultural school, but you can also park by the church.

    Namsos

    You have arrived at our final stop, Namsos. From here, you can access Norway’s famous Coastal Road. 

    Namsos Travel Guide

    Continue the drive

    Norway's Coastal Road Part 3: Brønnøysund to Sandnessjøen

    See the first part of Norway’s Coastal Road.

    Brønnøysund to Sandnessjøen

    This drive is part of the multi-day series “From Trondheim to the Lofoten Islands & Back Again”, where we travel from Trondheim to Lofoten via the Coastal Road, and then take the E6 back south to Trondheim. You can view the entire drive below. 

    From Trondheim to the Lofoten Islands

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Central Norway, History, Trondheim

    Finding St. Olav at Stiklestad, an Important Christian Site in Norway

    Finding St. Olav at Stiklestad, an Important Christian Site in Norway

    If you’re in Trondheim or driving around it, one of the places you can visit nearby is Stiklestad. Stiklestad is a small agricultural village with a big story: it was the site of the most famous battle in Norwegian history. The Battle of Stiklestad is when Norway’s Saint Olav was killed in battle in 1030.
    Today Stiklestad is not so much a town as it is a huge shrine to St. Olav. Even if you aren’t religious or even know who St. Olav was, there’s something fascinating about this place. It’s basically an open field full of monuments, churches and chapels, plus some places designed to bring in tourist dollars.
    I visited Stiklestad this year while driving from Trondheim to Namsos. I must admit I was a little disappointed; I felt the attractions (most of which were built in the last 20 years) were too focused on kids on summer holidays. Still, I love Norwegian history and wanted to visit.
    Here’s my overview of Stiklestad.

    In this article...

    Trondheim Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    History of Olav & Stiklestad

    Who was Saint Olav?

    Olav (or Olaf, depending on where in the world you are) was not born into the sainthood life, the sainthood life chose him. He was born around 995 as the son of a petty king in Vestfold, though he was the great-great-grandchild of Harald Fairhair, Norway’s first king. He was raised in England, where he became influenced by Catholicism. He decided to return to his home country and try to convert the people, who were mostly pagan at the time. Additionally, Olav saw it as his calling to unite Norway as one country. In 1015, Olav returned to Norway and declared himself king. At the time, Norway was divided into petty kingdoms. Olav was able to get five of them on his side, mostly in the south.
    Olav is widely accredited with Christianising Norway, though some historians debate the influence he had. What many historians do agree on is that Olav was particularly violent in the ways he Christianised the people: he would travel to the small villages and tell them to become Christian, or he’d kill them. Many stave churches were erected during this time to appease Olav. It’s believed Olav used Christianity as a means to get control over Norway.
    Olav was known as a strong fighter, and during his time as the Norwegian king, he took part in several battles around the North and Baltic Seas. In these battles, he succeeded, asserting his suzerainty in the Orkney Islands, raiding Denmark, and making peace with Sweden. His success was short-lived, though. In 1029, the Norwegian nobles were tired of Olav and supported the invasion of King Cnut the Great in Denmark. Olav was driven to exile in Russia. He returned to Norway in 1029 but fell at the Battle of Stikelstad in 1030. King Cnut ruled Norway for five years after the battle, but their regency was unpopular and Olav’s illegitimate son Magnus (the Good) lay claim to the Norwegian throne.

    The Battle of Stiklestad

    The Battle of Stiklestad is one of the most famous battles in Norwegian history. This is the battle where Olav died. Now, the authenticity of the battle as a historical event is subject to question. There are differing stories about Olav’s death, but for argument’s sake, we will use the most commonly told story.
    As mentioned above, Olav returned to Norway after a short stint in exile in 1029. Olav and his 3,600 men travelled through Sweden before arriving at Stikelstad, a small farm in the lower part of the valley Verdal. When at Stiklestad, Olav and his men met an army led by Harek of Tjøtta and some men who had previously served Olav. The men were tired of the king’s brutal methods in converting the people to Christianity. There are conflicting stories as to who killed Olav – either it was his own, some men in an ambush, or a cowardly assault by strangers. However, this battle would cause Olav’s death.
    According to the sagas, Olav received three severe wounds – in the knee, neck, and finally, a spear through his stomach. This battle took place on the 29th of July, a day now full of festivities in Stiklestad.
    After his death, his body was laid in a sandy bank in Trondheim. According to the sagas, a farmer from Stiklestad buried the body here. The following year the grave was taken up ad given a new grave outside St. Clements Church. Shortly after, the coffin was again moved into the church that would eventually become Nidaros Cathedral. It’s written that Olav’s body was intact, sweet-scented and with hair and nails having grown since his death. A well close to where his body lay was believed to have healing powers. Olav was canonised on the 3rd of August 1031 by Bishop Grimkjell in Norway. In 1164, Pope Alexander III declared Olav a saint.
    There is little historical connection between the battle and the Christianisation of Norway, but the battle is still considered an important part of Christianity in Norway.

    Shrines & Sainthood

    After Olav became a saint, a cult around Olav was quickly formed, and it is widely accredited for unifying the country. In that sense, Olav was successful in unifying Norway – it was just after his death.
    Olav’s shrine at Nidaros quickly became an important pilgrimage site, and it is first mentioned in history in 1070. By this time, he was already referred to as Norway’s eternal king. The shrine was the resting place for his remains and it sat behind the high altar in Nidaros Cathedral in Trondheim.
    There were three shrines to Olav. The first was the original wooden coffin from Stiklestad, covered by an expensive cloth. The second was a costly shrine that was made by King Magnus Olavsson, Olav’s son. The third shrine was covered in silver and covered the other two shrines. Olav’s shrine is no more, though. After the Reformation, the shrine was taken out of Nidaros Cathedral. It’s believed to have been lost on a shipwreck on the Trondheim Fjord on its way to Copenhagen. All valuables from Nidaros were smashed and taken to Copenhagen for melting. From the shrine holding Olav came 2.6kg of silver and several gold plates. Denmark has never paid any compensation to Norway for the destruction of St. Olav’s Shrine and the theft of silver and jewels.
    It’s believed that the original wooden coffin was kept and buried at Steinvikholm when the Archbishop was fleeing during the Reformation. However, 24 years after the Reformation was the Nordic Seven-Year War, and the Swedes occupied the area. They moved the wooden coffin to Fløan Chapel and then to Nidaros Cathedral. They put it back under the cathedral, but the exact location is unknown. Later on, when the area was back under Danish control, the Danish minister let “earth fill the grave of St. Olav’s body” to put an end to the pilgrimages. Many historians have tried to find the coffin but have been unsuccessful. There are many medieval graves in Nidaros, and historians think it’s one of them.

    Olav Around Europe

    Olav became very popular in Scandinavia, and many churches in Sweden, Iceland, and Norway are dedicated to him. His presence was even felt in Finland and many travelled to visit his shrine. It is possible still today to do the Pilgrims Way (Pilegrimsleden) from Oslo to Nidaros Cathedral. The journey is 640km and is done by hundreds of people each year.

    Apart from the early traces of a cult in England, there are only scattered references to him outside the Nordic area. Several churches in England were dedicated to him, including St. Olave’s Church in York, St. Olave Hart Street in the City of London, and St. Olave’s Church south of the London Bridge.

    Places with References to Olav

    • The basilica of the Sant’Ambrogio e Carlo al Corso in Rome has a chapel of St. Olav
    • In Germany, there used to be a shrine of St. Olav in Koblenz
    • In the Faroe Islands, the day of St. Olav’s death is a national holiday
    • The town of Ulvila in Finland uses St. Olav on their coat of arms
    • Normandy uses Saint Olav as an important figure and was chosen unofficially as the patron saint of the Normans. The normand flag has been called the St. Olav Cross.
    • A bone from St. Olav’s arm is kept as a relic in the crypt of the Rouen Cathedral.
    • Olav’s Chapel in Covarrubias, Spain
    • Olaf’s Church is the tallest church in Tallinn, Estonia. There are many churches named after St. Olav in Estonia
    • Saint Olaf Catholic church in Minneapolis. There are multiple St. Olav churches in North America
    • The oldest picture of St. Olav is painted on a column in the Church of the Nativity in Bethlehem
    • Olaf street in Lerwick, Scotland

    Stiklestad: What you can see and do

    The village of Stikelstad

    Stiklestad is a very small village that has primarily been used for agriculture since it was settled.
    Due to its association with Norwegian cultural history, between 1934 and 1944 Vidkun Quisling’s Nationalist Nasjonal Samling party held several rallies at Stiklestad in an attempt to link the party of Norway’s historic part. A special Nasjonal Samling monument was erected there in July 1944 but was demolished after the war.
    Click here to see a photo of the monument. 

    Stiklestad Visitor Centre

    People have been visiting Stiklestad ever since the battle in 1030, but it’s only in recent times that the location has been turned into more of a destination. Most of the structures and attractions have only been built in the last 20 years.
    The Stiklestad National Cultural Centre was established in 1995. However, monuments have been here since shortly after the battle. It’s believed the first monument was put up in medieval times, and the church was also established soon after.
    The visitor centre has some indoor exhibitions, but practically all the items inside are replicas. Still, it’s a good place to go to get an understanding of the importance of Olav in Norway. They also have a souvenir shop and a cafe.
    There is a huge free carpark by the visitor centre, which is where you’ll park.

    Stiklestad Church

    The church is the closest attraction to the visitor centre, and in my opinion it is the most important thing to see when in Stiklestad because it is closest in age to the Battle.
    Stiklestad Church was built in a Romanesque style around 1180. Construction was initiated by Archbishop Øystein Erlendsson, and it’s believed the site the church is built on is the place where Olav was killed. The stone that Olav was laying on as he died is supposedly still inside the altar of the church.
    Most of the interior decoration is post-Reformation. Today the church is a Lutheran Church. Only the richly decorated baptismal font is preserved from the medieval times. It’s from the 14th century. You’ll find some medieval decorative elements on the outside of the church, especially around the southern and northern portals.
    The most unique thing to see on the church is one of the sculptures on the northern side of the church. It is a woman squatting, lifting her skirt, and having sex. This ‘Sheelanagig’ figure is found throughout Trøndelag and it is also common in England, Ireland, and northern France. ‘Sheelanagig’ may be associated with fertility and protection against evil forces. This is a pre-Christian belief, so it’s interesting that it’s on a Christian church.
    In summer they do open the church to the public. You can book a guided tour from the Visitor Centre, which I’d highly recommend if interested in history.

    St. Olav's Chapel (Russian Orthodox)

    St. Olav’s Chapel is a Russian Orthodox church building from 2003. The chapel belongs to Saint Olga, a Russian Orthodox congregation in Oslo.

    St. Olav's Chapel (Catholic)

    There is another Saint Olav’s Chapel in Stiklestad. This one is a Catholic chapel from 1930, built for the 900th anniversary of the Battle of Stiklestad.

    Olavsstøtta

    This is a monument from 1807 in memory of the Battle of Stiklestad. The memorial is one of the oldest preserved public monuments in Norway. The monument is built on Olavhaugen with a view of Stiklestadsletta where the church is located. According to tradition, the monument was erected on the spot where the shed in which Olav was laid after he fell is said to be located.

    There are some legends that the monument has healing effects. A travelling violinist fell ill while going from Russia to Norway, but he recovered when he arrived at Stikelstad and touched the stone.

    The Middle Ages Centre

    The Middle Ages Centre is a farm that consists of a longhouse, smithy, and other small warehouses. The longhouse was completed in 2009 to try and show what a longhouse would’ve looked like at the end of the Viking Age. The longhouse is primarily to teach about the late Viking age and tell stories about the transition from the Norse pre-Christian society to the medieval society based on the Christian faith.

    Folk Museum

    Close by is the Folk Museum, a collection of 30 buildings from the surrounding farms. The buildings are typically from between the 17th and 19th centuries. There are also nearly 30,000 objects from these nearby properties. The goal of the museum is to document the history of farming in the Verdal valley.

    Plan Your Visit

    Where is Stiklestad?

    Stiklestad is 90 minutes north-east of Trondheim, making it a very reasonable day-trip if you want to get out of the city. Just follow the E6 north and you’ll see brown tourist signs indicating where to turn off to get to Stiklestad. I highly recommend going with a car.  It seems there are no direct buses from Trondheim.

    Finding your way around

    Once you’ve parked your car, it’s fairly easy to find your away around Stiklestad. To get to most attractions, it’s highly recommended to walk. Parking is not possible outside most places.

    The village is built on a slope, with the longhouse being on a hill. I would say it’s a 15 minute walk from the centre. Additionally, most of the area is an open field so it’s grassy to walk on.

    In the map above, I’ve provided an overview of where everything is. 

    Opening hours/prices

    To stay up-to-date with the opening hours and prices, I recommend checking out the Stiklestad website directly by clicking here.

    Parking is free.

    Most of the attractions are outdoors, so you can see them for free. The vast majority of activities take place during summer, between the end of June and middle of August. Honestly, a lot of the activities are centred around children. Still, if you want a historical or informative experience, you can book a guide.

    Spending the night

    There is a hotel in the main centre – the Scandic Stiklestad – where you can stay the night.

    Share your thoughts!

    This is all I have to say about Stiklestad. We spent about an hour here before heading out. We were more interested in Olavsstotta and the Stiklestad Church, both of which have some historic merit. The story of St. Olav and his importance still today is fascinating, but sadly the site where he was killed is so lacking in authentic history that it’s a little hard to find Stiklestad more than a bit of a tourist trap.

    Trondheim Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide
  • Central Norway, History, Hurtigruten, Trondheim

    The History of Trondheim: Vikings, Christianity & World War II

    Trondheim is one of Norway’s most important historic cities. The history of Trondheim is like reading from the Norse sagas. It was inhabited during the Viking Age and was chosen as the place where the Vikings, who were raised in England under Catholicism, would land in an attempt to Christianise the pagan Norwegians. There are two Olavs accredited with this – who you’ll learn about below – and today one of them is buried under Nidaros Cathedral, one of Norway’s most important churches. After suffering fire after fire, the city became less important, but today it is noted for its prestigious University and fascinating town centre.

    Here’s my summary of the history of Trondheim: everything you need to know before you go.

    The pre-history of Trondheim

    The history of Trondheim begins thousands of years ago. People have lived here since the BCs, as evidenced by the 300+ rock carvings that have been found in the area. They depict not just the animals of the region (elk, red deer, halibut, salmon, etc), but also show people gathering, hunting and fishing.

    Before Trondheim was officially founded, the area was known as Øretinget. An Øretinget is an assembly for representatives from each reason, who would meet to award legal judgements and pass laws. It eventually developed into an assembly where the King of Norway was proclaimed, and it’s believed that Harald Fairhair was proclaimed at this assembly. 

    The early years & the battle for Christianity

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    Olav Tryggvason

    Trondheim was officially founded in the year 997 by Olav Tryggvason (960s-1000), a Viking King who had returned from England to Christianise Norway. He established Nidaros, as the town was called, on the edge of the river Nid, which twists around the peninsula before emptying into the fjord. 

    Olav’s goal was to resist and Christianise the pagans, which was the main religion at the time. While he did find some success, he was killed in the Battle of Svolder in 1000. 

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    Olav Haraldsson (Source: Galleri Straume)

    Olav Haraldsson (Saint Olav or Olav the Holy)

    Shortly after Olav Tryggvason’s death, another Olav decided to become king of Norway. A descendent of the first King Harald Fairhair, Olav Haraldsson had been a Viking since the age of 12, travelling throughout Northern Europe. He returned to Norway in 1015 to establish himself as the King in Trondheim. To cement this title, he built himself a wooden church, St. Clemens, shortly after. 

    Olav II also wanted to Christianise Norway, but he had a slightly different approach than Olav I. His approach was to travel to the small villages, meet the locals, and tell them to become Christian or he’ll kill them. This brutal plan was effective; once a village knew that Olav II was visiting, they’d quickly build a Christian church over their old pagan worshipping site. Many of these churches are stave churches: Catholic wooden churches with pagan motifs on them. 

    Eventually, and perhaps unsurprisingly, Olav II’s methods made some wealthy pagans angry. Olav was forced to flee to Russia in 1028 but decided to come back to Trondheim the following year. As he was making his return, he was met by the angry pagans in Stiklestad (95km/51 miles away), who killed him in the
    Battle of Stiklestad     in 1030. 

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    Battle of Stiklestad 1030

    Olav becomes a saint

    After he died, his followers secretly took Olav’s body to Trondheim and buried him somewhere near the present-day Nidaros Cathedral. Strange things began to happen. There was an eclipse of the sun, and a spring came from his grave that was believed to have healing powers. Some of Olav’s blood was placed in a blind man’s eye and the man’s vision was restored. 

    Several months after this death, Olav’s body was exhumed and his hair, beard and nails were seen to have grown. By this point, Olav had a large following – the Cult of Olav – and this following not only unified the country, but it also Christianised it. While Olav wasn’t around to see it, he had succeeded in Christianising Norway. His casket was placed into Kristkirken (Christ Church) in 1070 and Olav was canonised as the Saint of Norway. 

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    Kristkirken over the layout of the present-day Nidaros Cathedral
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    The evolution of Nidaros Cathedral – Kristkirken is in the red section

    Trondheim becomes a religious centre

    Trondheim quickly developed as a major religious centre, furthered by the fact that it became the episcopal seat in 1080, and pilgrims from Europe started coming to visit St. Olav’s Casket at Kristkirken, which later became known as Nidaros Cathedral. The church was continuously extended throughout the 12th century, and officially completed in 1320 (it burned down a few years later, though, kickstarting centuries of rebuilding and burning down). The Archbishops Palace was constructed in 1152 as the religious and political centre of the Kingdom of Norway, which not only included Norway but also the Faroe Islands, Shetland, Isle of Man, Iceland and Greenland.

    The Norwegian Civil War

    A major civil war was fought in Norway throughout most of the 12th century over the rightful heir to the throne. King Sverre Sigurdsson (1150-1202), who believed he was the rightful heir to the throne, built himself a castle and fortress just outside Trondheim called Zion – today it is known as Sverresborg and is part of the open-air museum (click here to view their website). The civil war ended when King Håkon Håkonsson (1204-63) became king in 1217 at the age of 13. He moved his seat to Bergen, making it the new capital of Norway. Trondheim began a period of stagnation. 

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    The West Front of Nidaros Cathedral in 1666

    The Reformation & Danish Union

    While Norway had not been a truly independent country since 1380 due to the Kalmar Union, it was the Reformation in 1536/7 that reconfirmed Norway as a Danish territory under Danish rule. Norway, a catholic country at the time, was forced to convert to the Lutheran (Protestant) religion after the Danish king adopted the doctrine of Lutheran. Many old Catholic churches were torn down to make way for new Lutheran churches, and many historic buildings were left untouched, eventually deteriorating into ruin. As Nidaros Cathedral and the Archbishops were symbols of the Catholic religion, the Danes prevented any repairs done to the cathedral after a major fire, and the Palace was turned into a military base. The last Catholic bishop of Trondheim, Olav Engelbrektsson, fled to the Netherlands. Olav’s casket, as well as most items in the church, were taken by the Danes and melted to be made into coins. 

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    Kristiansten Fort was built to defend Trondheim from the Swedes

    The many, many fights with Sweden

    The 16th and 17th century in Scandinavian history is typically characterised by the many battles between Denmark/Norway and Sweden. As Trondheim is close to the Swedish border, the town became involved in some of these battles. In the Seven-Year War, which lasted between 1563 and 1570, the Swedish Army entered Trondheim and laid siege to the town for two months. During a new war in the years 1567/58 that was won by Sweden, the country of Trøndelag was ceded to the Swedes, though it was only Swedish territory for several months. The Norwegians built Kristiansten Fortress to defend themselves against the Swedes. 

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    A fire in Bakklandet in the 1960s

    Fires of Trondheim

    You’ll notice as you walk around that Trondheim has lots of timber buildings. Due to the proximity of forests, the main building material has always been timber. This, of course, means that Trondheim has also caught fire many times. The first major fire was in 1295 when much of the town and the Episcopal Palace was destroyed. In 1328, just 8 years after the 150-year construction of Nidaros Cathedral ended, the church burned down. It had been richly decorated and was regarded as Norway’s finest and most holy palace. A complete restoration was carried out, but a new fire in 1432 caused considerable damage. The town was destroyed by fire in 1531, but at this time the rebuilding was greatly limited. After the Reformation in 1537, the church now lacked importance. Parts of the church were left without a roof and stood in ruins for almost 400 years. 

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    The town plan after the fire of 1681 by Cicignon

    The most famous fire is the fire of 1681 when the town once again burned down. This caused the citizens to rethink how they built the town, and the town planner General John Caspar de Cicignon (1625-1696) from Luxembourg was called to Trondheim to redesign the city with fire prevention in mind. He adopted a grid system with wide, open streets and a quadratic layout. It is regarded as the finest example of a Baroque town plan in Norway and is the layout you’ll see today.

    Still, it wasn’t fireproof. In 1708, the town was ravaged by fire. Nidaros Cathedral was destroyed – only the stone walls remained. Restoration of the church was only just completed when it was again struck by lightning in 1719. The church was rebuilt once again, but this time in a very simple design; for example, a simple pyramid-shaped roof was constructed over the old tower and the octagonal chancel was crowned by a dome in the Baroque style. 

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    Trondheim in 1898

    Several more fires occurred between 1788 and 1842. The street plans changed slightly to try and stop fire jumping, and in 1845 a new rule was introduced that said all buildings had to be built in stone. The locals were surprisingly stubborn about this and insisted on building in wood. They wanted Trondheim to always be a ‘timber town’. After a fire in 1899, they decided that maybe Trondheim should be built in stone. A brick law was enforced. 

    19th Century Industrial Growth

    Trondheim has always been a major industrial centre for timber, mining and brickworks. The first brick factory opened in the 1200s (and yet it took them over 600 years to decide to use it as a building material), and timber factories existed along the river. The modern industry arrived in the 19th century with the construction of a textiles factory near the river in 1843. Between 1842 and 1870 there was considerable economic development in Trondheim; several businesses that used manual labour became industrialised. The towns commercial and industrial enterprises followed the international trends, with considerable development around the time of the First World War and the depression between the wars. 

    World War II

    Like the other major cities in Norway, Trondheim was occupied on the 9th of April 1940 by German forces. The heavy cruiser ‘Admiral Hipper’ and four destroyers were anchored in the harbour, and 1,700 German troops oversaw the occupation. Trondheim was of strategic importance to the Germans; it was considered the ‘gateway’ to Northern Norway and the Trondheimsfjord provided a haven for German ships preparing to attack the Allied convoys heading for Murmansk. The Germans built U-boat pens along the harbour, a major defence fort at Munkholmen, and coastal forts along the fjord.

    Resistance groups and martial law

    A strong resistance group was active in Trondheim, working with the British via secret radio transmission and distributing illegal newspapers. Their acts of resistance eventually angered the German Reichskommissar Josef Terboven, who decided to implement martial law in the city. He arrived in Trondheim on the 5th of October 1942, and by the 6th of October there were signed all over the city notifying citizens of the ‘martial law’. The conditions for martial law included a curfew from 8pm to 5am, a general prohibition against the use of railroads for transport, and a prohibition against gatherings. Violations were to be punished with no less than 10 years’ imprisonment at hard labour camps or with capital punishment. 13,000 police officers were mobilised to enforce the law. 

    Terboven announced to the civilians from the town square that 10 prominent citizens of Trondheim had been executed as ‘atonement sacrifices’. A well-known concentration camp was situated just north of Trondheim, called Falstad, and nearby was the Falstadskogen (Falstad Woods), which were known as a killing ground. When Terboven made the announcement, eight of the citizens hadn’t been executed yet. Rather, they were being held at the Gestapo Headquarters at Misjonhotellet and had heard the announcement of their deaths. They were taken to Falstadskogen, blindfolded, and placed two by two in a mass grave. They were shot at short range by a firing squad of 10.

    In the following two days, an additional 24 residents were arrested and executed. A dozen or so Jewish men were arrested, 1,434 properties were raided, and 93 Norwegian individuals were arrested. Everyone killed or arrested had some connection to the Norwegian resistance or was just a well-liked member of society whose arrest was to ‘send a message’. Martial law was lifted on the 12th of October once Terboven was confident he had stopped the resistance. However, these measures did little to stop the Norwegians. Rather, they only grew stronger, more organised and coordinated. 

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    A memorial at Falstadskogen
    The Jewish population of Trondheim

    There was intense persecution of the Trondheim Jewish population that began at the local synagogue before spreading throughout the rest of the country. The Trondheim Synagogue was confiscated in April 1942, and in autumn that year Ernst Flesch, a ruthless anti-Semite, had become the commander of the Security Service for Trondheim. By summer 1942, he had taken over almost all business owned by Jews and had arrested the owners. The arrested and executed another four Jews for listening and spreading Norwegian news from London. In October 1942, the remaining Jews were arrested – this was the first city in the country to carry out the mass arrests. By November 1942, all Jews in Trondheim had been arrested and deported, where they would all be killed at a concentration camp, or they were imprisoned in a Norwegian concentration camp. Only a few managed to escape to Sweden. 

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    NTNU Trondheim

    Trondheim Today

    Today, Trondheim is Norway’s third-largest city and is often referred to as the ‘technology capital’ of the country. This can be attributed to the large number of start-up companies that can be found in the city, but also because of the university the Norwegian University of Science and Technology (NTNU). Universities came to Norway late due to the Danish union (if you wanted an education back then, you had to go to Copenhagen). The first college in Trondheim was founded in 1760 as the ‘Det. Kgl. Norske Videnskabers Selskab’, or the Royal Scientific Society. The Norwegian Technical College opened in 1910. Throughout the 20th century, colleges for Arts and Sciences and Medicine opened.

    NTNU University

    In 1996, all of these colleges were brought together and became NTNU. NTNU has a professional basis in education and research, social sciences, humanistic sciences, scientific objects, medicine, architecture and art. 

    There are approximately 36,000 university or college students in Trondheim. The students are particularly known for their volunteer work, and the student society is run by more than 1,200 volunteers. NTNU is also known for closely collaborating with industries and has some of the closest industrial links in the world. NTNU is famous for its research, and there are 4,500 scientific staff and at any time the university is running more than 2000 research projects. In 2017, NTNU was ranked first in the world for universities with corporate links. Many of its Master and PhD programmes are in English, and NTNU offers a free Norwegian language course online if you are interested in learning. 

    In 2014, Professors May-Britt Moser and Edvard Moser at NTNU were awarded the Nobel Prize in Physiology or Medicine for their discoveries of how the brain creates a map of space around us to navigate complex medical surroundings. They share the award with John O’Keefe of the University College London.

    Scientific Institutions

    St. Olav’s Hospital is one of the major university hospitals in the country. The hospital has 8,69 employees and treats 725,000 patients every year. It specialises in back injuries and neuroscience.

    There are several scientific organisations in Trondheim. One of them is SINTEF, the largest independent research organisation in Scandinavia. Of their 1,800 employees, 1,300 of them are located in Trondheim. The Geological Survey of Norway is also located in Trondheim and is a major geoscientific institution with 220 employees of which 70% are scientists. 

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    Trondheim is regarded as the cross-country ski capital of Norway due to the fact its produced so many Olympians. The Granåsen Ski Centre is a major Nordic skiing venue that regularly hosts competitions. Trondheim is also known for its football club Rosenborg, which has won the Norwegian Premier League 26 times between 1967 and 2018 and has reached the UEFA Champions League group stage 12 times.