Scenic Drives

  • Drive it Yourself: Oslo to Kristiansand on the E18

    Drive it Yourself: Oslo to Kristiansand on the E18

    Drive from Oslo to Kristiansand on the E18! The E18 is a major highway running through Scandinavia. Starting over in St. Petersburg, the highway travels across Finland and via ferry to Stockholm, where it can then be followed all the way to Kristiansand. There used to be a ferry across to England, which is where the E18 continues over to Ireland, however the ferry is no longer operating. Still, it is an interesting highway to follow.

    This guide follows the stretch from Oslo to Kristiansand. Along the way, you pass a number of interesting historic port communities, and many are worth spending time in. The drive from Oslo to Kristiansand isn’t long – only 4 hours – but allow an extra day or two so you can enjoy all the stops along the way. 

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    Oslo to Kristiansand on the E18

    Oslo

    This drive begins in Oslo, Norway’s capital city. You can find a detailed overview of Oslo via our dedicated travel guide page. 

    Oslo's Neighbourhoods

    Neighbourhoods

    As you drive out of Oslo you will pass the affluent neighbourhoods of Sandvika and Asker. 

    Lier Municipality

    Lier municipality is known for its agriculture, and is regularly nicknamed the strawberry municipality, or the apple and vegetable municipality. It has also been nicknamed ‘the green lung between Oslo and Drammen’. 

    Lierskogen

    Village

    This is the easternmost part of the Lier municipality. Lierskogen is an active agricultural village with the production of milk, meat and sheep farming. 

    Drammen Municipality

    Drammen municipality is the first municipality you’ll pass through. It is named after Drammen, the city and centre of the municipality.

    Drammen is located where the Drammen River flows into the fjord. The river has been important for timber trade for hundreds of years, and thanks to this Drammen developed into one of Eastern Norway’s most important maritime and trading towns. 

    During the Viking Age, the area was called Dramm, a Norse word that can mean ‘waves’. In the Norse sagas, it is written that Olav the Holy (St. Olav) hid from Knut the Mighty in the Dramm fjord. Oslo’s Saint Hallvard is also from Drammen – he was killed and sunk in the Drammensfjord in 1043. 

    Drammen

    Drammen is today the fifth largest city in Norway, with a population of 111,000. It is also one of the fasted growing urban regions in the country. Despite this rapid modern growth, Drammen does have some interesting places to visit, as well as an interesting history. Read about Drammen on our dedicated travel guide page. 

    Vestfold og Telemark County

    You now cross into Vestfold and Telemark County. The two used to be two individual counties, but in 2020 they were merged under a government restructure. However, they are planning to separate again. So, you are technically just in Vestfold County!

    Holmestrand Municipality

    The area around Holmestrand has long been connected to timber trade and the construction of sailing ships. The Dutch first came to the area to trade timber in 1550, and Holmestrand grew quickly. You can visit the historic pier in the town centre. 

    Today Holmestrand is regarded as a popular holiday destination due to its proximity to some nice beaches. The first spa was built here in 1840. 

    Holmestrand town has a population of 8,000 people. 

    Detour: Tønsberg

    Tønsberg is a short detour off the E18 but is well worth it – it is regarded as Norway’s oldest town and was founded before the year 871. It was an important centre during the Viking Age. Some sites survive from old times, and there’s a great museum in town. 

    Sandefjord Municipality

    Sandefjord is known for its rich Viking history and is where one of the Viking ships at the Viking Ship Museum in Oslo were found – the Gokstad Ship. However, Sandefjord also developed as an important whaling centre and now has Europe’s only museum dedicated to whaling. 

    Today Sandefjord municipality is a popular summer destination for Norwegians and there are ferries linking the municipality to Germany and Denmark. 

    Sandefjord

    Sandefjord is worth spending some time in – the museums are wonderful and the town itself is charming. Learn about Sandefjord via our dedicated travel guide below. 

    Larvik Municipality

    Larvik municipality has a population of around 48,000 and like the other communities we have passed through, is today known as a popular summer spot for Norwegians.

    Larvik does have an interesting history, too. Remains from the Stone Age have been found here and during the Roman Iron Age, ancient peoples erected a stone monument resembling a ship at Istrehågen, and this is today regarded as one of Norway’s greatest remains from prehistoric times. 

    Larvik was a Danish county until 1817. The rest of Norway had come under Danish rule, and four local businessmen bought the county in 1817, making it part of Norway. 

    The highway passes by the town of Larvik. 

    Porsgrunn Municipality

    Porsgrunn was first mentioned in historic documents in 1576, but has been a place long before then. The area became an important harbour town in the late 16th century, and Porsgrunn was the home of some of Norway’s most influential families. For a while, Porsgrunn was considered the cultural centre of Norway.

    The processing industry is the biggest industry in the municipality, and Yara – one of the world’s largest mineral fertiliser factories – is located here. 

    Porsgrunn

    Porsgrunn is a town with a population of 35,000 and is the outlet of the Telemark Canal, so makes for a nice place to visit. 

    Kragerø

    Village

    Kragerø is a worthwhile detour  – it was referred to as ‘the pearl among coastal towns’ by Edvard Grieg, after all. At one point, it was one of Norway’s largest shipping towns. The village today is spread over both sides of the Bysundet strait and is a charming place to stop at. 

    Agder County

    Agder country stretches across the southern part of Norway. It is also commonly referred to as Sørlandet, or “the South”. 

    Agder was one of the petty kingdoms during the Viking Age, and the place is mentioned in teh Old Norse sagas. 

    Gjerstad Municipality

    The municipality of Gjerstad has been inhabited since the Stone Age, and the place was important during the Viking Age. Agriculture has been important here for centuries, and timber also provided a good income for many people.

    Risør Municipality

    Risør municipality is primarily a tourist municipality thanks to the lakes, hills and coastline. 

    In the first week of August, there is a wooden boat festival and the municipality has a growing reputation as the regional capital of arts and crafts. 

    The village of Risør has existed for a long time, and the Dutch began coming in the 16th century to trade timber. The village has a Baroque Church from 1647. 

    Sadly the whole town was destroyed by fire in 1861 and has been completely reconstructed since then. 

    You do not pass through Risør; rather, it is a short detour off the E18 highway. 

    After passing through the village of Akland, you will go through the Sørlands Portal – a tunnel marking the beginning of Southern Norway. 

    Tvedestrand Municipality

    Tvedestrand municipality is a historic municipality with the centre being the village of Tvedestrand. One of the oldest buildings in the municipality is Holt Church, which dates from the 12th century and has an ancient baptismal font.

    Tvedestrand

    Village

    Tvedestrand town is only a short detour off the E18 and is worth visiting. The town centre has white wooden houses with irregular streets built on steep hills around the harbour, making it a beautiful village. Around 2,000 buildings are more than 100 years old. It is a popular summer place for Norwegians because of the numerous islands and nice scenery. There are around 1,700 summer cottages here.

    Arendal Municipality

    Arendal municipality is a sizeable municipality with 45,000 people living here. It was mentioned for the first time as an important port in documents from 1528. 

    Arendal

    Arendal is commonly referred to as the ‘Venice of the North’ as the historic town is built on seven islets. Visit our dedicated travel guide page below. 

    Skaggerak Coast

    Coast

    Skagerakk is the strait that runs between the Jutland peninsula of Denmark and the southeast coast of Norway. It is one of the busiest shipping routes in the world because it is the passage from the North Sea to the Baltic Sea. It was historically the only entrance to the Baltic Sea, but since 1784 there has been the Eider Canal.

    Grimstad Municipality

    Grimstad municipality is centred around the coastal village of Grimstad, which has a harbour, church and museum dedicated to Henrik Ibsen. After all, Ibsen worked as an apprentice in the pharmacy before leaving the town in 1850. Ibsen’s knowledge of the people and surroundings of Grimstad can be seen in the poem Terje Vigen.

    Grimstad has been known for a long time, but it was recognised as a harbour town in 1622. By 1747, Grimstad had a sizeable sailing community and was a known place for smugglers.

    Grimstad

    Grimstad is a historic harbour town and a nice place to visit on your road-trip. Visit our dedicated road-trip page below. 

    Lillesand Municipality

    Lillesand municipality is centred around the town of Lillesand. It is one of the more modern ports along the Skaggerak coast as it was established in 1821. However, at the time it had nine shipyards. The end of sailing ships caused huge economic difficulties for the municipality as sailing ships were inexpensive due to the use of timber, whereas steamships required steel that was expensive. Many people from Lillesand ended up emigrating to the United States.

    In Lillesand you’ll find the National Park Skjærgårdsparken, which is spread out across islands, skerries and rocks. There’s also a Maritime Museum about the history of the municipality.

    Kristiansand Municipality

    Well, Kristiansand has one of the more impressive coat-of-arms I’ve seen!

    Kristiansand was established in 1641 and is named after the Danish-Norwegian King Christian IV (who also renamed Oslo after himself to Kristiania). The city is strategically located on the Skaggerak coast and used to be an important military base as all traffic had to pass here in and out of the Baltic Sea.

    Kristiansand

    You have made it to Kristiansand, the end of the drive on the E18. Kristiansand is an interesting historic city, so be sure to head over to our dedicated travel guide page to learn more. 

    Write any questions or comments you have in the section below!

  • Drive it Yourself: Båtsfjord to Kjøllefjord

    Drive it Yourself: Båtsfjord to Kjølleford

    The drive from Båtsfjord to Kjøllefjord is perfect if you want to avoid large crowds, towns, settlements, or any trace of civilisation. Sure, there may not be many shops or villages to stop at, but what makes this drive so special is the scenery. Both the Varanger peninsula and the Nordkyn peninsula are spectacular for geology, unique landscapes, and history. Just be warned – these are some of the most difficult roads to cross in winter and will probably be closed.

    I did this drive in September 2023, which was the best time of year to go – no snow, no mass amounts of caravans, but gorgeous orange colours and the northern lights at night. 

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    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

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    Online Guide
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    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    Båtsfjord to Kjøllefjord

    Båtsfjord

    Båtsfjord is one of Norway’s largest fishing communities and is also one of the most culturally diverse in the country. 

    Båtsfjordsfjellet

    Mountains

    Now you cross the Båtsfjordfjellet mountain at 358m above sea level. 

    Berlevåg Municipality

    Berlevåg municipality is located on the northwestern part of the Varanger peninsula. Most of the settlement is concentrated around the village of Berlevåg, though Kongsfjord is the second largest settlement. The coat-of-arms represents the municipality’s dependence on the sea – the waves towards the beach. The five waves represent the five places with permanent settlement.

    Tana-Deanu Municipality

    The Sami word “Deanu” The Sami word can be translated as ‘great river’, referring to the Tana River. The population of the municipality is around 2,800, with the population currently declining.

    The coat-of-arms represents riverboats that have been used in the area for centuries. The three boats symbolise the three ethnic groups here: Sami, Kven and Norwegian, and the colours mimic the red and yellow of the Norwegian coat-of-arms.

    The most important industries are agriculture or timber. The world’s northernmost dairy is Tine in Tana Bru, and it employs around 30 people.

    The municipality is located along the lower river basin of the Tana River. Most of the inhabitants are Sami people. The river is one of Europe’s main salmon rivers, though no large-scale commercial fishing is done.

    Austertana

    Village

    Austertana is a small village located along one of the inner bays of the Tanafjord. The village is home to both the Austertana Chapel and the world’s second largest quartzite quarry. Most of the town was destroyed by Nazis at the end of World War II.

    The highest mountain on the Varanger peninsula, named Stangenestind, is 724m above sea level and is at Austertana. The northernmost point of the Scandinavian birch forest is also here. In Austertana you can find Norway’s longest sandy beach; it is 13km long.

    After Austertana you pass through a boomgate. The road to Berlevåg often closes in winter due to snowstorms, isolating the town from the rest of Norway. The daily coastal ferry (Hurtigruten and Havila) is an essential service during this time. 

    Tana Bru

    This is the main village in Deanu-Tana. Tana Bru means ‘Tana Bridge’ in English and is named after the bridge that crosses the river to the village of Skiippagurra on the other side of the river.

    Rustefjelbma

    Village

    In the village of Rustefjelbma is the Tana Church. The church was consecrated in 1964 and seats 300 people. The old Tana Church was burned down by retreating Nazi forces in 1944.

    Mountain crossing

    Mountains

    You now cross the mountains next to the Tanafjord. This stretch of road can close in winter. 

    Gamvik Municipality

    Gamvik Municipality’s main centre is Mehamn, which we will visit later in this drive. Gamvik is known as one of the poorest and most undeveloped municipalities in Norway and has a declining population.

    The coat-of-arms shows fishing net sewing needles, a characteristic maritime tool used for making and mending the fishing nets used by local fishermen.

    Lebesby Municipality

    Lebesby municipality’s administrative centre is Kjøllefjord, where this drive ends. The municipality is dominated by ethnic Norwegians, whereas the areas around the Laksefjorden are predominantly Sami.

    Ifjord

    Village

    Ifjord is a small village. This is where you turn onto the Fv888 towards Kjøllefjord. 

    Bekkarfjord

    Village

    Bekkarfjord is an agricultural community with three dairy farms and Finnmark’s largest chicken farm.

    Boom gate

    Road info

    We are going to pass a boomgate now with a parking area where you have to wait for the convoy in winter. The Fv888, the highway we are on, opened in 1989 and is regarded as Norway’s most difficult highway to cross in winter because of frequent snowstorms and strong winds. It is common for the road to close in winter.

    Nordkyn Peninsula

    Peninsula

    The Nordkyn peninsula has a unique barren landscape. There’s no high peaks here, and there are large areas of ‘boulder oceans’ – expanses of broken rock virtually without soil or vegetation. The peninsula also has bustling fishing villages and lots of history. It ends at Kinnarodden, the northernmost point on mainland Europe.

    The peninsula is connected to the mainland at Hopseidet, a narrow isthmus between Eidsfjorden in the west and Hopsfjorden in the east. The isthmus is 2km wide at low tide, 500m wide at high tide, and the highest point is 2.5m above sea level. In the 17th century there were settlements here and a church. There have been many debates and discussions concerning the construction of a ship canal so boats aren’t exposed to the bad weather around the peninsula. 

    The Fv888 crosses this small isthmus. 

    Gamvik Municipality

    You cross back into Gamvik. 

    Nordkyn Junction

    Road info

    Shortly after crossing onto the peninsula you reach a junction – left to Kjøllefjord or right to Mehamn. This guide will include information on the road to Mehamn and Gamvik before ending at Kjøllefjord.

    Mehamn

    Welcome to Mehamn, the northernmost port of call on the coastal ferry and an important fishing village. 

    Gamvik

    Village

    Gamvik is a small fishing village with a population of around 100 people. The village was historically only accessible by boat and used to be a port of call for the Hurtigruten ships. However, since the harbour was so poor, the daily Hurtigruten steamers had to anchor a little way from the shore. The Hurtigruten stopped calling here in 1990.

    Gamvik is the place in Norway with the longest road distance from Oslo at 2,040km (1,270 miles) including going through international routes.

    Gamvik Church was built in 1958 on the site of the former church that was burned down during World War II. The first church to be built in Gamvik, known as the ‘Lapp Church’, or the ‘Sami Chapel’, was consecrated in 1858. It was a missionary church.

    Gamvik has the characteristic post-war architecture that prevailed during the rebuilding process after 1945. The population was forcibly evacuated in 1944 when all the houses were burnt down and the quaysides and boats were blown up or burnt.

    In the centre of the community is the Brodtkorb fish processing wharf. The wharf was owned by the Brodtkorb traders in Vardø. The wharf closed in 1969 because of the collapse of the market for dried fish. It is now used as a museum by Gamvik museum.

    Slettnes Lighthouse

    Lighthouse

    Slettnes Lighthouse is a historic lighthouse. It is the only cast iron lighthouse in Finnmark, built by bolting together cast iron rings. The lighthouse keeper and his assistants used to live here permanently. Four families each had their own house, animals and outside toilets. It wasn’t until the first road was built in the 1970s that it was possible to work on a rotation basis.

    The lighthouse wasn’t completely destroyed during World War II. The area around the lighthouse is an area with traces of some of the oldest settlements in Finnmark along with traces of old fishing settlements.

    Between Slettnes and Gamvik is an almost in tact fort from World War Ii. The bunkers, cannon emplacements and trenches have all been preserved. At lost, 130 men were stationed at the fort.

    Slettnes is a protected nature reserve. As many as 95 different species of birds have been observed in the nature reserve and 53 of these breed every year. It is one of the most important nature reserves in Scandinavia, both as a stop-over point for migrating birds and as a breeding area.

    Continue back to Kjøllefjord.

    Kjøllefjord

    Kjøllefjord is a charming fishing village located on the north-western part of the Nordkyn peninsula. 

    Next Drive

    Varanger Tourist Road

    Follow the Varanger Tourist Road from Hamningberg to Varangerbotn via Vardø and Vadsø. 

    Previous Drive

    Berlevåg to Båtsfjord

    This road follows the “Ishavsveien” – Arctic Sea Road – from Berlevåg to Båtsfjord. 

  • Drive it Yourself: Berlevåg to Båtsfjord

    Drive it Yourself: Berlevåg to Båtsfjord

    The drive from Berlevåg to Båtsfjord is something special. Both ports are incredibly isolated on the Finnmark coast, but are vital fishing communities for Norway. The rugged shoreline has been shaped by bad weather from the Barents Sea, and the geology here is some of the oldest in Norway. The drive itself is short, but well worth it on any road-trip in the north. 

    Here’s my self-guided drive from Berlevåg to Båtsfjord. 

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    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

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    Online Guide

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    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    Berlevåg to Båtsfjord

    Berlevåg

    Welcome to Berlevåg! Berlevåg is a small fishing community facing the Barents Sea. Berlevåg is famous around Norway for its mens choir!

    Kongshavn

    Cultural Heritage Site

     Kongshavn has remains of settlements dating approximately 10,000 years back, from the early Stone Age to the 190s. The older settlements are higher up, indicating where the shoreline used to be. 11 housegrounds from the late Stone Age are here, while closer to the sea are 4-5 sites of houses from the Iron Age.

    The site is not marked with signs, but there is a parking lot. 

    Kjølnes Lighthouse

    Lighthouse

    Ishavsveien

    Road

    The road is commonly called Ishavsveien and is fascinating for those interested in geology as there’s no soil or vegetation concealig the various types of rock, sediments and rock formations. Prehistoric shorelines here show how the land has risen.

    Kongsfjord

    Village

    Kongsfjord is a small fishing village with a population of around 32 people. It has been inhabited for hundreds of years and Kongsfjord is one of the few fishing settlements that wasn’t destroyed during World War II. The Kongsfjord River has special protection as a salmon river, and parts of the fjord are protected as a special landscape.

    The local shop (pictured top left) is full of charm and is a must-see when driving here. 

    Kongsfjordfjellet

    Mountains

    You now cross the Kongsfjordfjellet mountain, which is 326m (1069ft) above sea level. 

    Båtsfjordsfjellet

    Mountains

    Now you cross the Båtsfjordfjellet mountain at 358m above sea level. 

    Båtsfjord Municipality

    The landscape in Båtsfjord is geologically very old by Scandinavian standards, and to a large extent formed before the last ice ages. Ice sheets from the last ice ages lay frozen over large parts of the Varanger peninsula and thus changed the landscape to a small extent. The large block field areas are believed to be very old, before the last ice age.

    However, the ice has left behind a large number (several thousand) of distinctive ring-shaped formations, formations that are otherwise known from only a few places in the world. The area is also characterised by many long and sometimes crossing gullies, which tell a lot about the melting and movement of the ice.

    Båtsfjord

    Båtsfjord is one of Norway’s largest fishing communities and is also one of the most culturally diverse in the country. 

    Next Drive

    Varanger Tourist Road

    Follow the Varanger Tourist Road from Hamningberg to Varangerbotn via Vardø and Vadsø. 

    Previous Drive

    Berlevåg to Båtsfjord

    This road follows the “Ishavsveien” – Arctic Sea Road – from Berlevåg to Båtsfjord. 

  • Drive it Yourself: Varangerbotn to Berlevåg

    Drive it Yourself: Varangerbotn to Berlevåg

    The short drive from Varangerbotn to Berlevåg is incredible. After venturing off the E6 highway, you cross the Kongsfjordfjellet mountains, leave the tree line, and then drive alongside the Barents Sea. The last part of the drive – nicknamed the ‘Arctic Sea Road’ – is considered one of the best geological areas in Norway. 

    The road often closes in winter, so this is only a summer drive. 

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    Download this Guide

    All of our guides can be downloaded via our online store. 

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

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    Online Guide

    Downloadable Guide

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    Varangerbotn to Berlevåg

    Varangerbotn

    Village

    Varangerbotn is a small village that is the administrative centre of Nesseby. The population is around 341. In Varanger you can visit the Varanger Sami Museum, a museum for the history and culture of the Sami in Varangerbotn. The museum presents the Sea Sami history, Sami prehistory, and contemporary Sami culture.

    Tana-Deanu Municipality

    The Sami word “Deanu” The Sami word can be translated as ‘great river’, referring to the Tana River. The population of the municipality is around 2,800, with the population currently declining.

    The coat-of-arms represents riverboats that have been used in the area for centuries. The three boats symbolise the three ethnic groups here: Sami, Kven and Norwegian, and the colours mimic the red and yellow of the Norwegian coat-of-arms.

    The most important industries are agriculture or timber. The world’s northernmost dairy is Tine in Tana Bru, and it employs around 30 people.

    The municipality is located along the lower river basin of the Tana River. Most of the inhabitants are Sami people. The river is one of Europe’s main salmon rivers, though no large-scale commercial fishing is done.

    Skiippagurra

    Skiippagurra has a population of around 254 residents and is a historic trading place. This is where the E6 stops following the Tana River and continues across to Kirkenes.

    Tana Bru

    This is the main village in Deanu-Tana. Tana Bru means ‘Tana Bridge’ in English and is named after the bridge that crosses the river to the village of Skiippagurra on the other side of the river.

    At Tana Bru, leave the E6 and follow signs to Berlevåg. 

    Austertana

    Village

    Austertana is a small village located along one of the inner bays of the Tanafjord. The village is home to both the Austertana Chapel and the world’s second largest quartzite quarry. Most of the town was destroyed by Nazis at the end of World War II.

    The highest mountain on the Varanger peninsula, named Stangenestind, is 724m above sea level and is at Austertana. The northernmost point of the Scandinavian birch forest is also here. In Austertana you can find Norway’s longest sandy beach; it is 13km long.

    After Austertana you pass through a boomgate. The road to Berlevåg often closes in winter due to snowstorms, isolating the town from the rest of Norway. The daily coastal ferry (Hurtigruten and Havila) is an essential service during this time. 

    Kongsfjordfjellet

    Mountains

    You now cross the Kongsfjordfjellet mountain, which is 326m (1069ft) above sea level. 

    Berlevåg Municipality

    Berlevåg municipality is located on the northwestern part of the Varanger peninsula. Most of the settlement is concentrated around the village of Berlevåg, though Kongsfjord is the second largest settlement. The coat-of-arms represents the municipality’s dependence on the sea – the waves towards the beach. The five waves represent the five places with permanent settlement.

    Buetjernet

    Settlement

    Buetjernet is located just after the turn-off from the road to Båtsfjord. There is no permanent settlement here; these are all cabins. 

    Kongsfjord

    Village

    Kongsfjord is a small fishing village with a population of around 32 people. It has been inhabited for hundreds of years and Kongsfjord is one of the few fishing settlements that wasn’t destroyed during World War II. The Kongsfjord River has special protection as a salmon river, and parts of the fjord are protected as a special landscape.

    The local shop (pictured top left) is full of charm and is a must-see when driving here. 

    Ishavsveien

    Road

    The road is commonly called Ishavsveien and is fascinating for those interested in geology as there’s no soil or vegetation concealig the various types of rock, sediments and rock formations. Prehistoric shorelines here show how the land has risen.

    Kjølnes Lighthouse

    Lighthouse

    Varangerbotn is a small village that is the administrative centre of Nesseby. The population is around 341. In Varanger you can visit the Varanger Sami Museum, a museum for the history and culture of the Sami in Varangerbotn. The museum presents the Sea Sami history, Sami prehistory, and contemporary Sami culture.

    Berlevåg

    Welcome to Berlevåg! Berlevåg is a small fishing community facing the Barents Sea. Berlevåg is famous around Norway for its mens choir!

    Next Drive

    Berlevåg to Båtsfjord

    This road follows the “Ishavsveien” – Arctic Sea Road – from Berlevåg to Båtsfjord. 

    Previous Drive

    Varanger Tourist Road

    Follow the Varanger Tourist Road from Hamningberg to Varangerbotn via Vardø and Vadsø. 

  • Drive it Yourself: Geiranger to Sandane via Stryn & Loen

    Drive it Yourself: Geiranger to Sandane via Stryn and Loen

    In June 2023 Sean and I set off for a weekend in the fjords. The goal was to film as much as possible while the weather was good. Originally I had wanted to do the Gamle Strynefjellvegen Tourist Road, but it was still closed because of snow. Oh well – it’s just an excuse to go back!

    This road was beautiful. I hadn’t been to this part of Western Norway for years, and was reminded of just how special it was. A highlight was the stretch from Loen to Utvik; easily the most beautiful fjord I’ve driven along.

    We chose Sandane to spend the night because of the historic hotel; it was a town I had never heard of but I had heard of the hotel. 

    In this article...

    Download this Guide

    All of our guides can be downloaded via our online store. 

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

    Coming soon.

    Online Guide

    Downloadable Guide

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    Geiranger to Sandane via Stryn & Loen

    Geiranger

    This drive begins in Geiranger, a popular village due to its incredible fjord. This is also the end of the Trollstigen Tourist Road, a very popular road in Western Norway. You can read all about Geiranger via our travel guide page. 

    Flydalsjuvet

    Scenic Overlook

    As you leave Geiranger there is a lovely viewpoint over the village and the fjord called Flydalsjuvet. It’s not to be missed!

    Knuten

    Historic Site

    Knuten (the Knot) is a section of the old road. It’s still the same as it was when it opened in 1882. It is a loop road used to get up/down the steep mountain. The road curves 270 degrees, and was designed to reduce the road graient for passing horses and people.

    It’s important to note that it’s very hard to see Knuten if you’re going down into Geiranger. It’s best viewed if going up from Geiranger.

    Cars are not allowed to go up, but people and bikes can.

    Dalsnibba Viewpoint

    We are now at the famous Dalsnibba Viewpoint. It’s a lengthy detour, but if you can see the mountain peaks, it’s well worth doing.

    Dalsnibba is a viewpoint located at an altitude of 1,746m. From the top, you can see Geiranger, the Geirangerfjord, and the road we’ve taken to get here. The view is unlike anything else. The road is only 5km (3 mi) off the main road, but it takes a long time as the road is narrow, has many hairpin bends, and often has a lot of traffic.

    The road has a toll as it is a private road. You can see updated prices via the link in the description. At the top you’ll find a café, souvenir shop, and incredible views. It is often very, very cold and very windy. Bring extra layers! Snow is common all year round.

    Innlandet County

    Skjåk Municipality

    Skjåk is a municipality in Innlandet. It’s part of the traditional region of Gudbrandsdalen. The name comes from an old farm.

    After the last Ice Age, it’s believed reindeer followed the ice as it retreated north to Scandinavia. Skjåk is in the middle of the central migration route for the Scandinavian reindeer. There are ancient large hunting facilities and traces of settlements that show hunting and trapping was important here from the Ice Age until today. There are farm names that date back to the Iron Age. There is a hunting facility for moose from 220-570AD.

    The region is mentioned in the Viking Age and has a rich cultural heritage. St. Olav supposedly travelled through the valley when he was Christianising the villages. He christianised Lom, but Skjåk refused. As a result, the village was burned. St. Olav said: “It’s a pity to burn such a beautiful village”.

    There was a high population growth during the Middle Ages, and there were around 120 farms here just before the Black Death in 1349. After the plague, the population was more than halved. In the second half of the 17th century, the population recovered to the pre-plague numbers. Most of the farms in Skjåk were owned by the farmers. From 1730, the forest began to be exploited for the timber industry.

    You will then turn right, following signs towards Stryn. We did this trip in the low season so were not able to do the Gamle Strynefjellvegen Tourist Road, but if you are doing this drive from mid-June to early September, the road will be open. 

    Vestlandet County

    Stryn Municipality

    Stryn municipality is located around the innermost part of the Nordfjorden. Farming, forestry, fruit growing, animal breeding for fur and manufacturing is important to the region. Stryn is also known for its all-year glacier skiing at Stryn Sommerski.

    Strynefjellet

    Mountains

    Strynefjellet is a mountain range that separates Vestland and Innlandet counties. The mountain area is partly within the Breheimen National Park and the mountains are the main watershed between West and East Norway.

    Oppstrynsvatn

    Lake

    The Oppstrynsvatnet lake is the main outflow of the river Stryneelva, which flows west into the Nordfjorden. The village we are driving through is located by the lake. This is where you also find the Jostedalsbreen National Park Centre.

    Stryn

    The village of Stryn has a population of around 2,600 people. One of the fastest growing industries here is tourism because of the proximity to the national parks and popular areas like Geiranger. Stryn is the administrative centre for the region.

    Loen Skylift

    The Loen Skylift is an incredible cable car that rises 1000m (3300ft) above sea level. We covered it in a separate article, which you can see below. 

    Loen

    Loen is a small village located on the inner part of the Nordfjord. Loen is home to the historic Hotel Alexandra, which opened in 1884. It is named after Princess Alexandra of Denmark. The hotel has undergone a lot of development since it opened, and it is currently in its fifth generation of the same family running it. Loen Church is from 1838 and is located higher up in the valley, but historical records indicate that a church has been here since the early 14th century.

    Olden

    Olden is a small village with around 500 people. This is where the larger cruise ships dock that are heading to Loen or the Jostedalsbreen National Park. In 2019, 102 cruise ships came here. The Briksdalsbreen glacier is a popular hiking destination and is located about 25km (16 mi) from Olden.

    Innvik

    Village

    Innvik is a small village with around 430 people living there. At its peak, however, there were over 3,000 people living here.

    Utvik

    Village

    Utvik is a small village with around 332 people living there. The village is located on the southern side of the Nordfjord. Utvik has been an important communications hub for hundreds of years. The Royal Trondheim Postal Route was established through here in 1795, and at Utvik the postal workers would take a boat to the northern side of the fjord.

    Utvik developed as an important place for trade. There was an inn, pier, post office, bakers, dyers, and blacksmiths living here. Trade has existed here since the mid-17th century. Additionally, there has been a church in Utvik since the 14th century, though the church the village has today is from 1840. The altarpiece and pulpit are from 1617, while the church bells are from the Middle Ages.

    Today Utvik has a large production of fruit and berries.

    Gloppen Municipality

    Gloppen is a municipality located just south of the Nordfjord with around 5,800 people living there. Part of the municipality is located around the Gloppefjorden. Gloppen is one of the largest agricultural municipalities in Western Norway and accounts for 10% of Norway’s milk production.

    The word ‘Gloppen’ comes from the old Norse Gloppi and means “narrow opening”. The area was an important place in the Viking Age, and a number of burial mounds have been found here. Some of the oldest burial mounds go back to the 4th century. Karnilshaugen is West Norway’s largest mound – 7 metres high and a diameter of 50 metres. It was probably built as an astronomical mark as the mound is the last point to receive sun during the winter solstice.

    Sandane

    Sandane is a small town with a population of 2,500. The centre is fairly modern, but people have lived here for hundreds of years. The village has a high school, football team, gold course and small airport. The main square of the town is Heradsplassen, which has a monument of a copy of a wooden object that was found dating to the 4th century. The original is in the Historical Museum in Bergen. This is the only wood carving of its type to be found in Norway; similar objects have been found in Iran and Afghanistan.

    Sandane is home to the Gloppen Hotel, one of Norway’s historic hotels. The hotel was established in 1866 and is today owned by the hotel chain Classic Norway. It was extended in 1921 and now has a Swiss-style appearance. The highlight of the hotel is the kitchen. Gloppen Mat is the hotels own production kitchen in the back garden, and the restaurant only serves locally sourced food.

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

    Previous Drive

    Trollstigen Tourist Road

    Before this drive, we completed the Trollstigen Tourist Road. 

  • Drive it Yourself: Lærdal to Lom via Tindeveien & Sognefjellet

    Drive it Yourself: Lærdal to Lom via Tindeveien & Sognefjellet

    Here’s my self-guided drive for the journey from Lærdal to Lom via the Sognefjellet Tourist Road. In June 2023, Sean and I decided to head out for a weekend in the fjords. Very good weather was forecast, and we didn’t want to miss an opportunity to see this area in the sun! The last time we did Sognefjellet, in September 2020, it was incredibly stormy and we missed all the views. 

    We left Bergen in the afternoon and had a brief break in Lærdal before beginning the journey. I didn’t know what to expect when driving through Årdal to get to Sognefejllet; I had never heard of Tindeveien before and figured it would just be some back road. But wow, was I wrong. Tindeveien was one of the most beautiful roads I have driven on in Norway. Why don’t more people know about it? Well, hopefully I can share it to other people driving in Western Norway.

    Here’s my guide to the very, very scenic drive from Lærdal to Lom via Tindeveien and Sognefjellet. 

    In this article...

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    Downloadable Guide

    Lærdal to Lom via Tindeveien & Sognefjellet

    Lærdal Travel Guide

    Lærdal has been a trading place since the Middle Ages and probably took over from the old Viking marketplace Kaupanger. Coastal farmers brought herring and fish and exchanged goods with mountain farmers from Valdres and Hallingdal. The Lærdal Market is first mentioned in written sources in 1596. It eventually ended but restarted in 1982 and is still held every year.

    Sognefjord

    Fjord

    We are now driving along the Sognefjord, which is the longest and deepest fjord in Norway. It is 205km (approx. 125 mi) long and 1303m deep at its deepest point. The width varies from 1 to 2km up to 4 to 5km. Many of the mountains around the fjord are around 1,000 metres high.

    The Sognefjord has been an important transport artery since ancient times. From the innermost arms of the fjord it is a relatively short distance to the inland villages in Eastern Norway.

    The Sognefjord has good herring fishing. In the outer parts of the fjord, salmon has traditionally been fished. There is also some fish farming in the outer parts.

    Årdal Municipality

    Årdal has long been known as a municipality for heavy industry. In 1702, the Årdal Copperworks was established, and there were also sawmills and hydropower plants in this area. In 1948, aluminium production started in Årdal. The aluminium works has been the cornerstone company in Årdal for over 50 years. It was started by the Nazis furing World War II.

    In recent years there has been a lot of investment into tourism and green industries. The municipality has been featured on several television programs in recent years, and the hike in Øvre Årdal has become famous on social media.

    Årdal is still at the forefront of industrial technological development in the fields of aluminium, solar cell production and hydropower.

    Årdal

    Årdalstangen is the main town in Årdal municipality, with a population of around 1,3700. This is largely an industrial town, with a shipping port for the Aluminium company here. There is also a carbon plant, laboratory and administration building for Norsk Hydro here. The old mining office from 1702 is located at the administration building.

    Øvre Årdal

    Village

    Øvre Årdal is a settlement and industrial site. It is where the major aluminium plant is in the region. In Øvre Årdal you’ll also find the famous hiking trail called Tusenmeteren, which was the old road from Øvre Årdal to Valdres constructed in 1937. The train has become increasingly popular on social media because of its incredible views.

    Tindeveien

    Scenic Road

    Tindeveien is the old mountain road between Årdal and Turtagrø. The road is also the main link between the Sognefjord to the Jotunheimen National Park area. The road is only open from May to November due to snow. The road is also part of the shortest land connection between Bergen and Trondheim.

    The road does have a toll booth – payable by credit card. The toll booth is located at the highest point on the road, 1315 metres above sea level.

    Turtagrø

    Mountain Lodge

    Turtagrø is located at 900 metres above sea level and is a popular starting point for many hiking trips. The area has been an important stopping place on the road over the mountain between Lom and Skjolden for a long time. In the 1880s the farmer Ole Berge gave travellers food and shelter, and many Englishmen and pioneers in Nordic mountain sports came to his farm.

    The first hotel was built here in 1888 and helped developed the area as an important meeting place and haunt for mountaineers and hikers. Edvard Grieg also played at the hotel several times. The historic building burned down in 2001 and Ole Berge Draegni, the fourth generation owner, quickly planned a new hotel. It reopened in 2002. Ole Berge Draegni died in the flood disaster in Thailand in 2004. His daughter took over from him.

    The area, known as Hurrungane, is one of Norway’s most alpine areas, with 24 peaks over 2,000 metres above sea level. The peaks have sharp tops and are often separated by glacier formations. Many of the mountains require experienced climbers.

    Nedre Oscarshaug

    Photo Stop

    Nedre Oscarshaug is one of the popular photo stops on the Sognefjellet Tourist Road. Here you can see many of the mountains over the Hurrungane mountain range as well as the valley down to the Sognefjord.

    Sognefjellet

    Tourist Road

    The Sognefjellet Tourist Road is one of Norway’s 18 national tourist roads. It is located on the border between the Innlandet and Vestlandet counties. The mountain crossing has been used for centuries, and it was a popular trade route for bringing grain over from the east to the west.

    From the 19th century onwards, the area developed as a popular place for hikers and climbers, and a number of mountain lodges were established. The first road was completed in 1915, though it has been upgraded since then. Today it is one of the most popular tourist roads. The road is only open in the summer months.

    Innlandet County

    You will cross into Innlandet County, which is a county located in the inner parts of Norway. It has no connection to the sea. 

    Galdbygde

    Village

    Galdbygde is a small village with lodgings for the mountains. It is also where you take the road up to Galdhøpiggen, the highest mountain in Norway. Of course, you can’t drive all the way to the top. This takes you to the start of the hiking trail. 

    Lom Municipality

    You drive into Lom Municipality, which is where our final stop is. 

    Lom

    Welcome to Lom! Lom is a gorgeous village located between three national parks. It is also home to one of Norway’s most impressive stave churches. 

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

    Next Drive

    Lom to Dombås

    Follow our next drive from Lom to Dombås. 

  • Drive it Yourself: Harstad to Svolvær (via the Fv83)

    Drive it Yourself: Harstad to Svolvær (via the Fv83)

    The drive between Harstad and Svolvær is a scenic drive through the traditional regions of Vesterålen and Lofoten.

    There are actually two ways to get between the two towns. The first way is to follow the E10, the major highway that runs through Lofoten. We covered that drive in 2021 (click here to read it). This way, via the Fv83, is the second way. It does take a little longer, but it is worth it. The Fv83 is regarded as a scenic road for the Vesterålen region, which is just as beautiful as Lofoten but with less tourists. It does include one ferry, but the ferry runs regularly. 

    Here’s our guide to the drive from Harstad to Svolvær via the Fv83. 

    In this article...

    Download this Guide

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    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

    Coming soon.

    Online Guide

    Downloadable Guide

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    Harstad to Svolvær

    Harstad Travel Guide

    Read more about Harstad, one of the largest towns in Northern Norway, below. 

    Kvæfjord Municipality

    Kvæfjord municipality is a scenic municipality located on the island of Hinnøya, which is the largest island in Norway. Around 2,800 people live in the municipality. Kvæfjord is known for its agricultural heritage and its production of strawberries and potatoes. The farms here benefit from south-facing slopes and bright nights under the midnight sun. The fjord is known for its rich supply of herring.

    Archaeological evidence shows there has been settlement here since at least the Iron Age, and there are farms that have evidence of habitation back to 300BC. Some place names in the area come from the Viking Age. There has also always been a small Sami settlement in the area.

    Kvæfjord is home to Norway’s national cake, the Kvæfjord cake. The cake is made with meringue, vanilla cream and almonds.

    Kvæøya

    Island

    You’ll pass a right turn that takes you towards the island. Kvæøya is a small island in the Kvæfjord. It is connected to the mainland via a small bridge, the Kvæøy Bridge, which was completed in 2010. The island is highly regarded for its farming, with large farms on the southern and western sides. 

    Hemmestad

    Village

    Hemmestad is a small village with an interesting history. It used to be the ‘capital’ of Kvæfjord and was a major trading area. In the village today you’ll find the old Hemmstad Brygge (pier), a heritage-listed building that was the trading centre for Kvæfjord throughout the 19th century. Twice a year boats came here with coffee, spices, candy, textiles and spirits. From Hemmestad, rockfish, cod, fowl and mullet was exported.

    Today Hemmestad Brygge is a museum complex that explains the history of trade here.

    Refnes - Flesnes

    Ferry

    You will now take the ferry between Refnes and Flesnes, two small villages on either side of the Gullesfjorden. 

    Bogen

    Settlement

    Bogen is a small settlement that relies on agriculture and fish farming. There is an annual festival here called Flesnes i fest, where several hundred people come to compete in football and car races.

    Langvassbukta

    Village

    Langvassbukta is a small village by the Gullefjord. This is where the county road ends. From here, it turns into Highway 85 (Rv85). To go towards Lofoten, turn left towards Lødingen. It is also recommended to take a scenic detour to Sortland and back.

    This guide follows the scenic detour. 

    Sortland Municipality

    Sortland municipality is the administrative centre for the region and is named after the town of Sortland, which is the largest town and commercial centre in the traditional region of Vesterålen. It is part of the county of Nordland.

    The municipality is spread across the islands of Langøya and Hinnøya in the Vesterålen archipelago. The mountain Møysalen is part of the Møysalen National Park, located in the southern part of the municipality. The midnight sun occurs from the 23rd of May to the 23rd of July, while the polar night occurs from the 30th of November until the 12th of January.

    Sigerfjord

    Town

    Sigerfjord is a small town with around 800 people living there. The church is from 1933 but has a figure of St. Olav from the 15th century inside. It came from an earlier church on the same spot. The town has a primary school and kindergarten. Most of the industry here is connected to the sea.

    Sortland

    Sortland is the main town and administrative centre for the region. It is also known as the ‘blue city’.

    Sortland is a 15 minute detour from Sigerfjord, but is well worth it if you want to stop for a coffee break or pick up some supplies.

    You can read about Sortland via our travel guide below. 

    This drive now continues back towards Lødingen. You’ll reach a round-a-bout and turn onto the E10 towards Å i Lofoten. 

    Hadsel Municipality

    Hadsel municipality is located on four main islands in Vesterålen – Hinnøya, Langøya, Hadseløya, and Austvågøya.

    Hadsel has been an important hub for the fishing industry, and due to its proximity to Lofoten has always been an important trading place for Lofoten residents. The oldest settlements were likely on the southern side of Hadseløya, but the main harbour has always been Stokmarknes.

    The name “Hadsel” comes from the Old Norse word “Hovdasegl”, meaning “main sail”. The name describes that Hadseløya can look like a merged mainsail on a Nordland boat when you see Hadseløya from Langøya. The Sami name for Hadsel is Ulpesuohkan, referring to the old name for the area (Ulvøya).

    The main airport here is the Stokmarknes Airport, the busiest small aircraft airport in Norway. Stokmarknes is also the birthplace of Hurtigruten, the Norwegian coastal ferry.

    The coat of arms represents four yellow rings, representing the four main islands the municipality is on.

    Vågan Municipality

    Vågan is a major municipality in Lofoten. It includes most of the island Austvågøy as well as Gimsøya. It is the easternmost of Lofoten’s six municipalities. The main town in Vågan is Svolvær, where this drive ends. Fishing is the most important industry here, and Vågan is North Norway’s 8th largest fishing municipality.

    Austnesfjorden

    Photo stop

    The view is excellent over the fjord and you can see Sildpollnes Church in the distance.

    Sildpollnes Church is a small white wooden church from 1891. The church had some drama recently, when the current neighbour refused to let people through his property to get to the church because he said the 1890 agreement stated people could pass on foot, but it didn’t mention automobiles. The church closed in 2015 and the case went to court, with the neighbour loosing and the Lofoten District Court ruling in favour of the church.

    At the photo stop they have a place you can walk up to with a viewing platform. I’ve used a photo of it at the top of this page. This is where you get the view out to the church. 

    Svolvær Airport

    Airport

    Svolvær Airport is a regional airport in Lofoten. While it is one of the main airports for Lofoten, it is likely not the one you will fly to if you are flying to Lofoten – instead, it’s better to fly to Harstad/Narvik and drive from there. Svolvær Airport is served by Widerøe and the routes are subsidized by the government with direct flights to Bodø, Oslo, and small communities in Nordland county. There are plans to make a new primary airport to serve the Lofoten and Vesterålen region, making it more attractive to visit out of the tourist season.

    Svolvær

    We have made it to Svolvær, the end of today’s drive! You can read more about Svolvær on our dedicated travel page. 

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

    Previous Drive

    Kiruna to Harstad via Narvik

    See the previous day’s drive from Kiruna in Sweden to Harstad in Norway via the Norwegian town of Narvik. 

  • Drive it Yourself: Honningsvåg to Hammerfest

    Drive it Yourself: Honningsvåg to Hammerfest

    In this article...

    Downloadable Version of This Guide

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

    Online Guide

    Downloadable Guide

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    The drive: Honningsvåg to Hammerfest

    Honningsvåg

    This drive begins in Honningsvåg, the northernmost city in the world. You can find a detailed overview to Honningsvåg via the link below. 

    North Cape Tunnel

    Tunnel

    North Cape Tunnel is an underwater road tunnel that runs between the island of Magerøya and the Norwegian mainland. The total length of the tunnel is 6.8km and it goes 212 metres below sea level. The tunnel opened in 1999, replacing a ferry that used to operate in roughly the same spot.

    The tunnel has cold gates at each end that keep the cold out in the winter. This is done to prevent ice formation in the rock walls, and the gates open automatically when a car is approaching. The gates remain open in the summer.  

    Kåfjord

    Fjord

    Kåfjord is a fjord and small village located just after the tunnel. This is where the ferry used to leave before the tunnel was completed.

    Repvåg

    Village

    Repvåg is a tiny fishing village located on the side of the highway. Historically it was an important fishing and trading place in Finnmark, especially during the Pomor Trade with Russia. Several settlements from the Stone Age have been found here. Today the village only has around 14 residents.

    There is a large beach outside the village called Stranda, which used to have a large coastal Sami population and is the last area in the municipality that is still characterised by some coastal Sami culture. Today only some of the residents speak a Sami language. The beach has a number of important cultural monuments, hunting pits, graves and tufts.

    Hammerfest

    On the right you will pass the right-turn that will take you to the Havøysund Tourist Road, one of Norway’s 18 national tourist roads. That drive has been covered in a separate article, which you can view below. 

    Hammerfest Municipality

    Hammerfest is a large municipality in Northern Norway. The main town is Hammerfest, which is located off the mainland on the island Kvaløya. The coat-of-arms depicts a polar bear, which was chosen as the symbol for fishing in the polar seas in Northern Norway.

    Skaidi

    Village

    Skaidi is a small village and major traffic hub in Northern Norway. In the 1940s, the Skaidi Mountain Lodge and Station was built. Today it’s an important point to stop if you need a rest on the long road journeys.

    Here you’ll find a petrol station, various electric car charging stations, a cafe and a hotel. 

    Repparfjorden

    Fjord

    Repparfjorden is a fjord located southeast of the island Kvaløya, where Hammerfest is. The fjord is quite shallow with an average depth of 40-60 metres and a maximum depth of 123 metres. There are strong currents at the bottom of the fjord.

    Mining used to take place in this area for copper. The deposits were found around the year 1900 and between 1972 and 1978 Folldal Verk (the mine near Røros) ran the operations. More mining is planned in the area, but it is meeting protests by the local community.

    Kvalsund

    Village

    Kvalsund is a small village and former municipality in Finnmark. It was its own municipality until 2020, when it was merged with Hammerfest. The name directly translates to the whale strait, refering to the whaling that used to take place in the area. The name of the island Kvaløya means ‘whale island’.

    The village used to be known as “Finnbyen”, referring to the Coastal Sami settlement in the area. Until a few hundred years ago, the Coast Sami culture was completely dominant in Kvalsund. Norwegian and Kven immigration soon made the area multicultural, and during the ‘Norwegianisation’ process of the late 19th/early 20th century, most of the culture was lost. One of the only villages to still have the Coastal Sami culture is Kokelv.

    Kvalsund is one of the areas in Finnmark county with the most cabins that are especially used by people from Hammerfest. There is good salmon fishing in the fjord and there are nice hiking trails in the area.

    Kvalsund Bridge

    Bridge

    The Kvalsund Bridge is a suspension bridge over the Kvalsundet strait, linking the mainland to the island of Kvaløya. The bridge is 741 metres (2,431 ft) long and has 11 spans. It is the northernmost suspension bridge in the world.

    Rypefjord

    Village

    Rypefjord is a village just outside Hammerfest. The village is considered more of a suburb of Hammerfest because of its proximity to the city. You’ll find a lot of industry here related to the LNG plant just off Hammerfest but also the fishing industry.

    Hammerfest

    We have made it to the city of Hammerfest! Hammerfest is the northernmost city in the world with a population over 10,000 people. The town has an ice-free harbour and is regarded as one of the oldest cities in Northern Norway (along with Vardø). People have been living and trading here for hundreds of years. Hammerfest rose to prominence in the 18th and 19th centuries due to its proximity to the Arctic hunting areas.

    On The Hidden North you’ll find a travel guide for Hammerfest including a detailed historic overview.

    Where to Go From Here

    From Hammerfest you can travel on to Alta or further to the Lyngen Alps, as we did. 

    This drive is part of the multi-day series “From Tromsø to North Cape and back again”. You can view the entire drive via the link below. 

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Drive it Yourself: Gudbrandsdalen

    Drive it Yourself: Gudbrandsdalen

    Gudbrandsdalen is a valley just north of Oslo. Described by VisitNorway as ‘the king of the valleys’, Gudbrandsdalen has a lot to see and do. There are tons of historic sites as the valley is historically important. There are ancient farms as the valley is one of the famous food produces of Norway. And there are outdoor activities aplenty as Gudbrandsdalen is close to some of the most beautiful scenery in Norway.

    I have a lot to say about Gudbrandsdalen. This is, in fact, one of the valleys you are likely to visit on your trip to Norway. It’s on the way to Geiranger from Oslo, meaning it’s quite popular with tourists. I take my groups through the valley, and we spend time at the stave churches, farms, and mountain villas.

    Gudbrandsdalen (which means “Gudbrands Valley” in Norwegian) begins at Lillehammer, home of the 1994 Winter Olympics and an American mobster in hiding, and ends at Vågå, where you have easy road connections to to the Stryn, Sogne and Valdres Scenic Roads, plus the Western Fjords – provided you go in summer. Most of these roads close in winter.

    This is my overview of Gudbrandsdalen, including what to see and do. Watch the video below to see what this drive looks like, and be sure to read along with this article 🙂 

    In this article...

    Download this Guide

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    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

    Online Guide

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    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    The drive: Gudbrandsdalen Valley

    Otta

    This drive begins in Otta, located in the upper part of the valley. 

    Rondane National Park

    National Park/Detour

    Shortly after leaving Otta you’ll see signs point to Rondane National Park. You can find information about the park via the link below. 

    Sjoa

    Village

    Sjoa is a small town located alongside the river Sjoa – hence its name! The town is very well known for its water sports, including rafting and kayaking. The river is also rich in trout and grayling, making it one of several popular fishing rivers in Norway.

    Nord-Fron Municipality

    Kvam

    Village

    Kvam is probably most famous for the battles that took place here during World War II. During the military campaign in Norway in 1940, Kvam was the scene of a battle between German and British forces. During the battle, the original Kvam Church (from 1776) was destroyed, along with 70 houses. There is a whole Wiki page to the battles, which you will find here. 

    By Kvam Church is the Peace Park, which is a memorial to the locals killed during World War II. There are also memorials on Stølane (Kvamsfjellet) where Russian soldiers were shot by Germans, and on Hillingen where three Norwegian soldiers lost their lives in a battle against German troops.

    Kvam has a British military cemetery. There is also a museum about World War II, the Gudbrandsdal War Memorial Collection, in town.

    Remember the battle at Otta in 1612 between Norwegian peasants and the Scots? Well, after the battle 134 Scottish prisoners were taken from Otta to Kvam. At Klomstadlåven, most were killed in a massacre. The barn building where they were kept before they were massacred, was destroyed during World War II.

    Kvam currently has a population of 762. Most of the industry has closed down in the last few years.

    Vinstra

    Village

    Vinstra is a small town with a population of 2553 on the E6 and the Train from Oslo to Trondheim.

    Vinstra is perhaps most famous for its connection to Peer Gynt. A local man, Peder Olsen Hågå, was the model for Henrik Ibsen’s dramatic poem Peer Gynt from 1867. In the cemetery in Sødorp you’ll find a monument to Peer Gynt.

    Every year since 1967 the Peer Gynt Festival has been held on the Peer Gynt Farm, Hågå. The farm consists of 15 old buildings, and the festival includes, among other things, an open-air performance of the play.

    From Vinstra you can do the Peer Gynt Road through Gålå to Lillehammer. There’s also the Peer Gynt Seter Road to Kvam over the hills.

    Sødorp Church

    Historic Church

    Sødorp Church is a wooden cruciform church from 1752. It’s believed the first church on the site was a stave church, but it was replaced in 1570 and no trace of it remains today. In 1752, the church was replaced once again with the church we have today.

    Originally the church stood in Sødorp, a small town just south of Vinstra – hence its name. However, Vinstra emerged as a major town in the early 20th century, and it was decided to move the church there. In 1910, the church was moved to its present location. 

    The 18th century church originally had a very high tower, but it was destroyed by wind in 1850. The church then got a stumpy small tower (click here for a photo of it). When it was moved to Vinstra, they made a new high tower for the church. You can see photos of the construction process here, here, and its completion here. 

    Much of the interior is from the 18th century, including the altarpiece, pulpit, choir arch, crucifix and relief figures. The soapstone baptismal font is from the Middle Ages, though.

    In the graveyard you’ll find a memorial stone to the real Peer Gynt. 

    Sør-Fron Municipality

    Harpefoss

    Town

    Harpefoss is a small town with a population of 335. The name comes from the railway development in 1896, when the railway station was named Harpefoss. People have lived here for centuries, though, and old names were Skurdal and Ryssland. Harpefoss is the name of the waterfall that separates two hamlets.

    During the railway development, Harpefoss Hotel was built. It is the only hotel left that is one of the original hotels from the railway development period that still stands. It is built in Swiss style with neo-Gothic features. It has long since been closed down as a hotel, and after a period as a country store, the house is now a residence.

    In Harpefoss you can stay in a historic farm! 

    The farm ‘Sygard Grytting’ has belonged to the same family since the 14th century. The current owner is the 16th generation since the year 1534. 

    It’s believed that as far back as Christianity goes, pilgrims would stay at the property on their way towards Nidaros in Trondheim. Because of these, there are unusual details in some of the buildings that are very similar to details found in monasteries. 

    You can stay in historic houses from the 17th century – the same houses the pilgrims stayed in – or buildings from the 19th century. 

    The property is still a working farm. 

    Agriculture specialises in sheep, grain, grass production and forestry. In ancient times, the operation was very versatile and the farm was self-sufficient in most things.

    Click here to visit their website. 

    Hundorp & Dale-Gudbrands Farm

    Historic Site

    Hundorp is the administrative centre of the municipality. Historically, Hundorp is a very important place. It was the centre of the petty kingdom of the Gudbrand Valley and as such an important place in terms of religion and politics.

    All this took place at Dale-Gudbrand’s farm. Dale-Gudbrand is a famous historic figure from the 1100s. He is mentioned in multiple Norse sagas, but most famously in the story of Olav the Holy christianising Gudbrandsdalen. You can read the story here. The image above is a drawing of Olav christianising the farmers. 

    Around the farm are five large grave mounds, though sadly one of them was removed. The four remaining are between 23 and 32 metres (75ft and 105ft). Additionally, there’s a square ring of stones and the remains of a round ring of stones, indicating a possible worshipping site.

    Today it is a Pilgrim Centre. There is a small farm shop with local food products and souvenirs. You can also spend the night there if you wish. Click here to visit their website. 

    Ringebu Municipality

    Ringebu

    This drive ends at Ringebu, a scenic village home to one of Norway’s preserved stave churches. 

    The Previous Drive

    Valdresflye Tourist Road

    In the morning we drove across the beautiful Valdressflye Tourist Road.

    The Next Drive

    Rondane Tourist Road

    After spending the night in Ringebu, we continued over the mountains on the Rondane Tourist Road. 

    This drive is part of the multi-day series “The Ultimate Norwegian Road-trip”, where we cover the best of Norway in an incredible 10 day drive. You can view the whole road-trip via the link below. 

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Drive it Yourself: Telemark

    Drive it Yourself: Telemark

    Telemark is a region in southern Norway famous for its natural beauty and industrial heritage. On this drive, we’ll pass the birthplace of skiing, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and go to one of Norway’s highest peaks! To finish it all off, we visit Norway’s largest stave church. Join me for a beautiful drive through Telemark.

    In this article...

    Download this Guide

    All of our guides can be downloaded via our online store. 

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

    Online Guide

    Downloadable Guide

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    The Drive: Telemark

    Dalen

    This drive begins in Dalen, a small town located on the westernmost endpoint of the Telemark Canal. The Telemark Canal goes all the way to Skien on the coast of Norway – originally the canal was used for industry, but today it is more popular with tourists.

    When the canal was completed, it was referred to as the ‘eighth wonder’. Ferries were able to link Telemark with Oslo through the canal and then Oslofjord.

    Dalen Hotel is a famous historic hotel; it is one of the best preserved hotels from the 1800s. The hotel was built with the opening of the Telemark Canal in 1892. When it opened, it became popular with European royals.

    During the occupation, it was a resort for German officers. Most of the interior was stripped and sold for parts. The building fell into disrepair.

    After the war, the building was bought by singer and evangelist Aage Samuelsen. The hotel got a lot of attention and was restored in the 1980s. The hotel reopened in 1992. In 2000, the hotel won the Europa Nostra award for outstanding conservation.

    The architecture is a mix of Swiss chalet with national romanticism and Dragestil, a type of Norwegian architecture inspired by Viking and medieval art.

    A night at the hotel starts at 3,000 NOK, with rooms going up to 8,300 NOK.

    Eidsborg Stave Church

    Stave Church

    Eidsborg Stave Church is one of the 28 remaining stave churches in Norway. Built some time between 1250 and 1300, the church stands out for being one of the smallest stave churches. Additionally, it is an important pilgrimage church that gave way to its own cult in the old times! Eidsborg Stave Church is located on the hill above the village of Dalen, and today is part of the Vest Telemark Museum. A visit to the church also includes a look at the historic farm buildings from the region. 

    Kveiteseid Municipality

    Morgedal & Sondre Norheim

    Ski museum

    Things Telemark is known for #1: It’s the birthplace of skiing! Well, modern skiing to be exact. Telemark skiing is a style of skiing invented by Sondre Norheim. There’s also the characteristic Telemark landing of ski jumping.

    Sondre Norheim was born in a small valley here in 1825. He was the first to introduce what is today known as modern skiing. He introduced an improved, more stable binding and was the first to develop skis with a side cut, today called carving skis.

    He is the father of Telemark skiing. It is a technique to turn when going downhill. The heel is detached from the ski and the front of the boot is fixed. This allows the skier to kneel as they turn, pushing forward one ski while lifting the heel of the other.

    Sondre combined ordinary skiing with jumping and slalom, making it a sport. In 1868 he won the first national skiing competition in Christiania (Oslo). He set the first-ever ski jumping record at this event.

    His reputation grew and made Norwegian words like ski and slalåm known worldwide.

    Torjus Hemmestveit and Mikkjel Hemmestveit were from here. They are considered the foremost pioneers of modern skiing in the United States. Before they emigrated to the United States, they created the world’s first skiing school at Christiania (Oslo).

    When Norway has hosted the Winter Olympics (Oslo 1952 and Lillehammer 1994), the flame was lit at Sondre Norheim’s birthplace.

    Seljord Municipality

    Selma in Seljord

    Monster

    Seljord is famous for its sea serpent Selma, who lives in Lake Seljord. She is mentioned many times in Norwegian folklore; the first ‘sighting’ of her being from 1750. The town has recently built a tower so you can go and try to spot her. The tower is located at ‘Seljord Camping’ – a caravan park – and you have to pay to park on site. The tower itself is free, but there’s no way to avoid paying for parking.

    The yearly Dyrsku’n Market, held since 1866, attracts up to 80,000 visitors a year. It’s a fair that started as a show of farm animals. Today it has a huge market with vendors selling almost anything from outdoor gear, outdoor clothing, crafts and food. There are also rides.

    Seljord Church is one of the oldest churches in Norway. Built between 1150 and 1180, it is in a Romanesque style and dedicated to St. Olav. The church has old furniture, including Norway’s oldest post-Reformation Altar from 1588.

    On the north side, you can see a face in the wall. According to legend, it is Olav the Holy.

    Another legend about the church says it was built by a ‘tussock’ – a Norwegian folkloric supernatural being. When he was to build the church tower, he fell and died. The place where he died still doesn’t grow grass to this day.

    Mælefjelltunnelen

    Tunnel

    Shortly after leaving Seljord you’ll go through the brand-new Mælefjelltunnelen.

    The tunnel opened on 19 December 2019 and is 9.3km (5.8 mi) long. It was built to provide better accessibility for trucks and avoid the narrower mountain roads. It is the longest tunnel in Telemark and the seventh-longest in the country. It took 6 years to build.

    Hjartal Municipality

    Sauland

    village

    Around 800 people live in Sauland, a small village that was a major centre until Notodden was built. Sauland even had its own stave church, which was torn down and replaced with the current Sauland Church.

    Sauland has a large gravel industry, and there are plans to establish a hydroelectric power station here. Sauland is also known for its mineral thulite, which is a manganese rich red-pink variant of zoisite. It is found on a couple farms north of the village. It was discovered 200 years ago.

    At Sauland you’ll find a petrol station, grocery store, and shops. 

    Mountain Pass (Fv3430)

    Scenic Road

    The Fv3430 is a beautiful mountain pass that takes you very quickly from green pastures to bare rugged mountain peaks. There are many beautiful places to stop for photos before reaching Gaustabanen. 

    Please note that this road closes in winter. 

    Tinn Municipality

    Gaustabanen

    Funicular

    Gaustabanen is a treat. You ride an underground funicular that was built for NATO during the Cold War (the purpose remains a mystery) and come out the other end on Gaustatoppen, a nearly 2000m-high mountain that (on a clear day) has a view over 1/6 of Norway!

    This is not to be missed (unless the weather is bad). But you will need at least 2 hours – preferably 3-4 – to do this ride. 

    Rjukan

    Rjukan is a fascinating town. Here you will find the Vemork Museum, which is about Rjukan’s development as an industrial city and the role of the hydropower plant during World War II. After all, Vemork was the site of Norway’s most famous sabotage operation. 

    Mæl & Tinnsjøen

    Lake & WWII Site

    Shortly after leaving Rjukan, you’ll reach the lake Tinnsjøen. At the edge of the lake is a preserved section of the Rjukanbanen, or the old train-ferry-train line that transported goods from the plants at Rjukan to the harbour in Skien. The name of this town is Mæl. 

    The stop is marked and has information boards about how it worked.

    This is also the site where a sabotage operation sank a German ship trying to export heavy water to Germany and assist in developing an atomic bomb. 

    Tinnsjøen is one of Norway’s deepest and largest lakes – we’ll be following it for most of the drive to Heddal. 

    Notodden Municipality

    Heddal Stave Church

    Stave Church

    We’ve made it to Heddal Stave Church! This is Norway’s largest stave church, and one of the best preserved. At this church you’ll find an open-air museum, indoor museum with exhibitions and you can enter the stave church. 

    Notodden

    Notodden is an important industrial town. 

    Kongsberg Municipality

    Kongsberg

    Kongsberg is a fascinating town to explore, and if you have a full day I recommend making the most of everything on offer.
    Historically, Kongsberg is an important place. It was founded by the Danish/Norwegian King Christian IV as a mining community in 1624 after the discovery of silver. One year later, the Kongsberg Silver Mines were established.
    With the rise of silver mining, Kongsberg became the largest industrial centre in Norway until the 19th century. The silver mining contributed to 10% of Denmark-Norway’s GDP, which was mostly spent on Denmark’s endless wars with Sweden.
    Christian IV hired Germans from silver mines in Germany to help with the establishment and education of silver mining in Norway. Most of the workers throughout the mines history were Germany, though Norwegians gradually took over.
    The mines also contained high-purity gold and a large amount of copper, cobalt, lead-zinc and flourite.
    The Kongsberg Mines were energy intensive and difficult to work in. Eventually gunpowder was used in the mines. This also helped establish Kongsberg’s defence industry. Today, Kongsberg is known as the home of Norway’s major defence contractor, Kongsberg Gruppen. Two of its well-known products are Kongsberg Cold and the Krag-Jørgensen rifle.
    Kongsberg is also the site of the Royal Norwegian Mint, which mints Norwegian coins and produces circulating and collectors’ coins for other countries.
    In Kongsberg you’ll find many museums. You can also visit the Kongsberg Mines, where some buildings are still standing. The mountain has many hiking trails for all levels, and many choose to hike to Kronene i Håvet, a collection of royal monograms in the side of the mountain (click here for info).
    Due to the huge Danish and German influence, the architecture in Kongsberg is unique compared to other pats of the country. It has also largely escaped fired.

    Continue the drive

    Numedal Valley

    The Numedal Valley will take you from Kongsberg up to the mountains of Western Norway. 

    Previous Drive

    Egersund to Dalen

    This drive goes from the southern cost up to the mountains. 

    This drive is part of the multi-day series “Ultimate Norway”. You can read about the whole drive below. 

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!