Lom

  • Drive it Yourself: Lom to Dombås on the Rv15 & E6

    Drive it Yourself: Lom to Dombås on the Rv15 & E6

    Here’s my guide from Lom to Dombås on the Rv15 and E6 highways. In June 2023 Sean and I decided to take a scenic road-trip through the fjords of Western Norway while the weather was good. My goal was to redo Trollstigen, which we had already done but only ever in bad weather. To get there, I thought it would be interesting to drive from Dombås along the Trollveggen mountains. This drive from Lom to Dombås doesn’t exactly have the most spectacular views, but it is a practical way of getting from west to east Norway. There are some interesting historic places along the way, and we cover those below. 

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    Lom to Dombås via the Rv15 and E6

    Lom Travel Guide

    Lom is a beautiful town and well worth a visit when in Norway. It is located between some of Norway’s most famous national parks and is home to Lom Stave Church, one of the most impressive stave churches left. 

    Garmo

    Village

    Garmo is an interesting historic village. The village is mentioned in documents back to the 13th century as a major farm. Over the centuries it has been divided into smaller farms.

    One of the famous legends from Garmo is how it got its first church. The legend says that Torgeir, an old man from Garmo, was given fishing rights by King Olav (later Saint Olav) after a dispute in 1021 in exchange for converting to Christianity and building a church. The right to fish was always highly valued.

    Garmo Stave Church is from around 1130. The church is no longer in the village; it was moved to Maihaugen in Lillehammer in 1921. The writer and Nobel Prize winner Knut Hamsun was baptized at the stave church in Garmo. His childhood home was located near Lom.  

    Today the village is known for its tradition-rich fiddling community.

    Vågå Municipality

    We are now in the Våga municipality, which itself is located within the Otta Valley. The area is mentioned in the Old Norse Sagas, and it is said that King Olav stayed here while christianising the region. The population was told they had to become Christian, or their homes would be burned down.

    Most of the municipality is higher than 900m above sea level, and on the northern side of the valley the mountains can reach peaks of 1500m – 1600m above sea level.

    Valdresflye Tourist Road

    Just before reaching the village of Vågåmo, you’ll pass the turn to drive onto the Valdresflye Tourist Road, one of Norway’s 18 national tourist roads. You can learn more about it in a separate article. 

    Vågåmo

    Vågåmo is a small village with around 1,500 people living there. It is located by the Våga Lake. In the centre of town is the Vågå Chruch from the 17th century that was partly built with parts from an older stave church. The Vågå rectory (Ullinsvin) is where Edvard Munch’s great grandmother had a herb garden.

    Vågåmo is one of the driest areas in Norway but has been hit by floods and landslides. Extreme floods and landslides have occurred throughout history; the best known is from 1789 while the most recent major event was in 2006.

    Sel Municipality

    Sel is regarded as the gateway to some of the most beautiful mountain areas in Norway, including Rondane and Jotunheimen. The word ‘sel’ comes from the Old Norse ‘sil’, which means ‘still, flowing water’. Here there is little rainfall, cold winters, and warm summers.

    The village of Sel has several historic farmhouses. The famous novel “Kristin Lavransdatter” by Sigrid Undset is set in Sel on a fictional farm, and the movie from the 1990s was filmed here.

    Rondane National Park

    When the Rv15 meets up with the E6, there will be some turn-offs to head towards the Rondane National Park. We covered this in a separate article. 

    Dovre Municipality

    Dovre is a municipality within the Gudbrandsdalen valley. Large parts of the municipality include the Rondane, Dovrefjell-Sunndalsfjella and Dovre national parks. The municipality is known for its rich flora and fauna, especially the musk ox. There are also populations of wild reindeer and wolverines.

    Dombås

    Dombås is a small town with a population of around 1,161 and is located at the northern part of Gudbrandsdalen. The village is a popular hub for access to the national parks in the surrounding area.

    In historic times, Dombås was an important station for travellers heading between Oslo and Trondheim. Today it is still an important transport hub, with the Dovrebanen and Raumabanen railways meeting here. Also, the E6 and E136 highways meet here.

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

    Previous Drive

    Lærdal to Lom

    See the previous day’s drive from Lærdal to Lom via Tindeveien and the Sognefjellet Tourist Road. 

    Next Drive

    Dombås to Åndalsnes

    On the next drive, we take the E136 from Dombås to Åndalsnes, driving alongside the incredible Trollveggen mountain range. 

  • Drive it Yourself: Lærdal to Lom via Tindeveien & Sognefjellet

    Drive it Yourself: Lærdal to Lom via Tindeveien & Sognefjellet

    Here’s my self-guided drive for the journey from Lærdal to Lom via the Sognefjellet Tourist Road. In June 2023, Sean and I decided to head out for a weekend in the fjords. Very good weather was forecast, and we didn’t want to miss an opportunity to see this area in the sun! The last time we did Sognefjellet, in September 2020, it was incredibly stormy and we missed all the views. 

    We left Bergen in the afternoon and had a brief break in Lærdal before beginning the journey. I didn’t know what to expect when driving through Årdal to get to Sognefejllet; I had never heard of Tindeveien before and figured it would just be some back road. But wow, was I wrong. Tindeveien was one of the most beautiful roads I have driven on in Norway. Why don’t more people know about it? Well, hopefully I can share it to other people driving in Western Norway.

    Here’s my guide to the very, very scenic drive from Lærdal to Lom via Tindeveien and Sognefjellet. 

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    Lærdal to Lom via Tindeveien & Sognefjellet

    Lærdal Travel Guide

    Lærdal has been a trading place since the Middle Ages and probably took over from the old Viking marketplace Kaupanger. Coastal farmers brought herring and fish and exchanged goods with mountain farmers from Valdres and Hallingdal. The Lærdal Market is first mentioned in written sources in 1596. It eventually ended but restarted in 1982 and is still held every year.

    Sognefjord

    Fjord

    We are now driving along the Sognefjord, which is the longest and deepest fjord in Norway. It is 205km (approx. 125 mi) long and 1303m deep at its deepest point. The width varies from 1 to 2km up to 4 to 5km. Many of the mountains around the fjord are around 1,000 metres high.

    The Sognefjord has been an important transport artery since ancient times. From the innermost arms of the fjord it is a relatively short distance to the inland villages in Eastern Norway.

    The Sognefjord has good herring fishing. In the outer parts of the fjord, salmon has traditionally been fished. There is also some fish farming in the outer parts.

    Årdal Municipality

    Årdal has long been known as a municipality for heavy industry. In 1702, the Årdal Copperworks was established, and there were also sawmills and hydropower plants in this area. In 1948, aluminium production started in Årdal. The aluminium works has been the cornerstone company in Årdal for over 50 years. It was started by the Nazis furing World War II.

    In recent years there has been a lot of investment into tourism and green industries. The municipality has been featured on several television programs in recent years, and the hike in Øvre Årdal has become famous on social media.

    Årdal is still at the forefront of industrial technological development in the fields of aluminium, solar cell production and hydropower.

    Årdal

    Årdalstangen is the main town in Årdal municipality, with a population of around 1,3700. This is largely an industrial town, with a shipping port for the Aluminium company here. There is also a carbon plant, laboratory and administration building for Norsk Hydro here. The old mining office from 1702 is located at the administration building.

    Øvre Årdal

    Village

    Øvre Årdal is a settlement and industrial site. It is where the major aluminium plant is in the region. In Øvre Årdal you’ll also find the famous hiking trail called Tusenmeteren, which was the old road from Øvre Årdal to Valdres constructed in 1937. The train has become increasingly popular on social media because of its incredible views.

    Tindeveien

    Scenic Road

    Tindeveien is the old mountain road between Årdal and Turtagrø. The road is also the main link between the Sognefjord to the Jotunheimen National Park area. The road is only open from May to November due to snow. The road is also part of the shortest land connection between Bergen and Trondheim.

    The road does have a toll booth – payable by credit card. The toll booth is located at the highest point on the road, 1315 metres above sea level.

    Turtagrø

    Mountain Lodge

    Turtagrø is located at 900 metres above sea level and is a popular starting point for many hiking trips. The area has been an important stopping place on the road over the mountain between Lom and Skjolden for a long time. In the 1880s the farmer Ole Berge gave travellers food and shelter, and many Englishmen and pioneers in Nordic mountain sports came to his farm.

    The first hotel was built here in 1888 and helped developed the area as an important meeting place and haunt for mountaineers and hikers. Edvard Grieg also played at the hotel several times. The historic building burned down in 2001 and Ole Berge Draegni, the fourth generation owner, quickly planned a new hotel. It reopened in 2002. Ole Berge Draegni died in the flood disaster in Thailand in 2004. His daughter took over from him.

    The area, known as Hurrungane, is one of Norway’s most alpine areas, with 24 peaks over 2,000 metres above sea level. The peaks have sharp tops and are often separated by glacier formations. Many of the mountains require experienced climbers.

    Nedre Oscarshaug

    Photo Stop

    Nedre Oscarshaug is one of the popular photo stops on the Sognefjellet Tourist Road. Here you can see many of the mountains over the Hurrungane mountain range as well as the valley down to the Sognefjord.

    Sognefjellet

    Tourist Road

    The Sognefjellet Tourist Road is one of Norway’s 18 national tourist roads. It is located on the border between the Innlandet and Vestlandet counties. The mountain crossing has been used for centuries, and it was a popular trade route for bringing grain over from the east to the west.

    From the 19th century onwards, the area developed as a popular place for hikers and climbers, and a number of mountain lodges were established. The first road was completed in 1915, though it has been upgraded since then. Today it is one of the most popular tourist roads. The road is only open in the summer months.

    Innlandet County

    You will cross into Innlandet County, which is a county located in the inner parts of Norway. It has no connection to the sea. 

    Galdbygde

    Village

    Galdbygde is a small village with lodgings for the mountains. It is also where you take the road up to Galdhøpiggen, the highest mountain in Norway. Of course, you can’t drive all the way to the top. This takes you to the start of the hiking trail. 

    Lom Municipality

    You drive into Lom Municipality, which is where our final stop is. 

    Lom

    Welcome to Lom! Lom is a gorgeous village located between three national parks. It is also home to one of Norway’s most impressive stave churches. 

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

    Next Drive

    Lom to Dombås

    Follow our next drive from Lom to Dombås. 

  • At the Crossroads: Lom Stave Church

    At the Crossroads: Lom Stave Church

    If you’re on a road trip through Norway or visiting with a tour group, it is very likely you’ll pass Lom Stave Church. Built at the crossroads between east and west, this stave church is very close to Geiranger, four tourist roads (Gamle Strynefellsvegen, Trollstigen, Sognefjellet, Valdresflye) and the highway between Oslo and Trondheim. Lom Stave Church may not be the oldest but is very well preserved. It is one of my favourites. The interior is fascinating, the guides are wonderful, and Lom itself is a charming and delightful town.

    I’ve been to Lom Stave Church many times with groups. I’ve heard the guided tours many times and wandered around the church photographing it. I took my husband back in September 2020, which is when most of the photos are from. We did it after driving up from Geiranger!

    Here’s an article about what makes Lom Stave Church so special. When you visit, I recommend waiting for a guided tour. Still, it’s great to know a little about what to expect before you go. That’s what this article attempts to do – a little sneak peek at what you’ll see at Lom Stave Church.

    In this article...

    History of Lom Stave Church

    Lom Stave Church originally stood as a triple nave stave church. Inside are free-standing inner columns to support the raised section of the roof. This type of church is among the oldest of the stave churches, and Lom is one of the largest stave churches remaining in Norway. The church is likely from the end of the 12th century. when historians did a dendochronoglical dating of the timber, it’s believed the timber was felled around the year 1157.

    The church stands near an ancient road between east and west. The rectory was an important place for travellers to rest, and this went on until the late 19th century. At that point, hotels began to take over. The road was busy until the Black Death affected Norway in 1349. After the Black Death, it took centuries for Norway to recover. The church remained unchanged for almost 300 years due to a lack of human and financial resources.

    When the Reformation took place in Norway, it didn’t immediately impact Lom Stave Church. However, the new owners removed the altar, crucifix and Catholic symbols.

    From the 17th Century Onwards: Renovation, Renovation, Renovation

    When the population started to pass its pre-Black Death levels, Lom Stave Church became too small for the congregation. The first remodelling came in 1608 when the addition of the new flat ceiling and an unknown artist put nice decorations on it.

    The next renovation came in 1634 when builders added the annex to the west. Thirty years later, the church was once again too small. A part of the stave wall on each side was removed and the church got arms facing north and south. The old, external portals from the Middle Ages were removed and are now on the end walls of the cross arms. With this, Lom Stave Church became a cruciform church. The original stave church is the middle part of the church today. The builder was Werner Olsen, who renovated the famous churches at Våga and Ringebu.

    Restoration work on the church was done throughout the years, including throughout the 20th and early 21st century. Yet, the appearance of the church has not changed much since this major 17th restoration.

    Archaeological Excavations

    In 1973, archaeological excavations took place under the church. The excavations uncovered many important things. They found a total of 2,270 coins, most of them from between 1200 and 1300. Lom Stave Church is the church in Norway with the largest number of coins found under the church.

    You can see pictures of the coins here: https://www.dokpro.uio.no/umk/funn/lom.html

    They discovered post holes and traces of an older building. The older building was most likely a post-church, which is a predecessor to the stave church. Graves under the church and were buried according to Christian custom. The graves were affected by later additions of posts, but this proves that a church building has been on the site for hundreds of years.

    Another important find was a stick with rune inscriptions on it. It is from the 14th century. They are the Nordic region’s oldest letter of courtship. One end of the stick has marks in gravel and stone, meaning it comes from a walking stick. We know the owner was Håvard because he marked his name on the inscription. It says:

    “Håvard sends Gudny God’s greeting and his friendship. And now it is my full wish to ask for your hand if you do not want to be with Kolbein. Think about your marriage plans and let me know your will.”

    So sweet!

    The theory is that Håvard broke off the stick on the way to church and wrote the inscription. He gave it to Gudny as he was entering the church. She read the message but put it under a crack on the floor. It seems she didn’t reciprocate the feelings! She was sitting at the end reserved for the upper class, so she was likely ‘too good’ for poor Håvard.

    Lastly, a parchment scroll from the 13th century was found under the church. It has notes and lyrics to music written in honour of St. Thomas Beckett, the Archbishop of Canterbury.

    Interior decorations

    As we know, the church underwent major renovations in the 17th century. This is also when most of the inventory is from.

    This symbol represents a dragon or lion-like creature. It is likely an old Viking symbol to smooth the forced conversion the local pagans made to Christianity.

    The wall decorations are from 1608, but guides will be able to show you the early decorations in the church. They are a little hard to see and need a torch.

    The free-standing staves from the original construction still stand in the interior. Later, perhaps to reinforce the structure, they placed St. Andrew’s Crosses between the staves.

    The pulpit is from the 1790s.

    The church has a collection of motifs and paintings. Some of them are by Eggert Munch, a descendant of Edvard Munch. He was a clergyman’s son from Vågå, a town now known for its connection to the Munch family.

    You seen see lots of pictures of the interior and the original floor-plans here: https://kunsthistorie.com/fagwiki/Lom_stavkirke

    Men used to sit on the right, while women would sit on the left. Prisoners sat at the back with the sheriff in the caged area.

    There is a town flag in the church. It has a spoon on it, which is the symbol of Lom. Because of its position in the mountains and little rainfall, large spoons were traditionally used to spread water over the fields.

    The apse was added in 1240, when Gothic cathedrals made an apse a necessity for churches across Europe. Lepers came to the grilled window in the apse for a blessing. The decorations inside were done in 1740. You can see it in the far-left of the image below.

    Exterior decorations

    The stave church is one of the few in which the medieval dragon’s heads remain on the roof. The ones on the roof today are a copy; the originals are in the stave church exhibition. This is in the building by the parking lot. It’s the old school building.

    Much like Borgund Stave Church, Lom Stave church used to have a corridor around the outside. The theory is that this is where all the Vikings would leave their shields when they went to service. Maybe it was later used to stand under cover while waiting to go inside.

    In the cemetery are several soapstone medieval crosses. Some tombstones from the 18th century still stand in the cemetery.

    Additional exhibition

    Head to the large building in the parking lot for an additional exhibition about Lom Stave Church. There are model churches, headstones and other artefacts. In the display case you’ll see the stick with the rune inscriptions described above.

    Visiting Lom Stave Church

    The church is a must if you are in the area. It is open throughout the summer and has fantastic guides in a variety of languages. There is no regular schedule; they’ll do it when you show up.

    Opening Hours and Admission

    Up to date information is found at stavechurch.com (click here).

    The church is open from June until September. The times vary according to the time of year, but it’s typically from 11am until 5pm. Tickets cost 90 NOK per person.

    Facilities

    There is a large free parking lot outside the church. It may be full of tour buses in the summer months.

    While there are no bathrooms on site, there is a bathroom (fee) beside the wooden building. Or, head across the road to Lom centre. Visit the bakery, buy some lunch, and use their (better) bathrooms for free). You’ll find lots of outdoor shops and a supermarket here.

    Resources

  • Geiranger – Lom Scenic Drive

    Geiranger – Lom Scenic Drive

    The Geiranger-Lom road is one of the most visited ways to get to Geiranger. It follows the Highway 15 from Otta, which is on the E6 between Trondheim and Oslo. It may seem like just a standard highway to get from A-B, but there’s a lot to see and do!

    With incredible photo-stops, scenic overlooks and detours, be sure to spend some time between Geiranger and Lom.

    I have done this drive many times with tour groups. In September 2020 I got to do the drive with the husband as part of our roadtrip around southern Norway.

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    All of our guides can be downloaded via our online store. 

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

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    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    The drive: Geiranger to Lom

    Geiranger

    This drive begins in beautiful Geiranger. I’ve got a lot to say about this place, so I’ve put it in a separate article which you’ll see below.

    Knuten

    Historic Site

    Knuten (the Knot) is a section of the old road. It’s still the same as it was when it opened in 1882. It is a loop road used to get up/down the steep mountain. The road curves 270 degrees, and was designed to reduce the road graient for passing horses and people.

    It’s important to note that it’s very hard to see Knuten if you’re going down into Geiranger. It’s best viewed if going up from Geiranger.

    Cars are not allowed to go up, but people and bikes can.

    Blåfjellbrakka

    Historic Site

    Blåfjellbrakka is a small cabin from 1904. It was built for those who worked to maintain Geirangervegen. It is the only barracks in the Norwegian Public Roads Administration. The building was restored in 1989 and today it’s a holiday home for employees in the Norwegian Public Roads Administration.

    They have a small information board on a wooden shed. You can pull over and have a read.

    Dalsnibba

    Viewpoint

    We are now at the famous Dalsnibba Viewpoint. It’s a lengthy detour, but if you can see the mountain peaks, it’s well worth doing.

    At an altitude of 1,746m, you can see Geiranger, the Geirangerfjord, and the road we’ve taken to get here. The view is unlike anything else.

    The road is only 5km (3 mi) off the main road, but it takes a long time as the road is narrow, has many hairpin bends, and often has a lot of traffic.

    The road has a toll as it is a private road. You can see updated prices via the link in the description. At the top you’ll find a café, souvenir shop, and incredible views. It is often very, very cold and very windy. Bring extra layers! Snow is common all year round.

    I wrote a separate article as one of the very first articles for this blog! You can see it here. 

    Innlandet County

    You cross over into Innlandet county. 

    Skjåk Municipality

    Skjåk is a municipality in Innlandet. It’s part of the traditional region of Gudbrandsdalen. The name comes from an old farm.

    After the last Ice Age, it’s believed reindeer followed the ice as it retreated north to Scandinavia. Skjåk is in the middle of the central migration route for the Scandinavian reindeer. There are ancient large hunting facilities and traces of settlements that show hunting and trapping was important here from the Ice Age until today. There are farm names that date back to the Iron Age. There is a hunting facility for moose from 220-570AD.

    The region is mentioned in the Viking Age and has a rich cultural heritage. St. Olav supposedly travelled through the valley when he was Christianising the villages. He christianised Lom, but Skjåk refused. As a result, the village was burned. St. Olav said: “It’s a pity to burn such a beautiful village”.

    There was a high population growth during the Middle Ages, and there were around 120 farms here just before the Black Death in 1349. After the plague, the population was more than halved.

    In the second half of the 17th century, the population recovered to the pre-plague numbers. Most of the farms in Skjåk were owned by the farmers. From 1730, the forest began to be exploited for the timber industry.

    Geography

    An ancient route of travel between east and west went up from Skjåk through the Raudal valley and then onwards to Stryn. This area is a historically significant traffic artery between Stryn and Nordfjrod, Geiranger, Sunnmøre, Ottadal, Lom and Vågå.

    Skjåk is the westernmost part of the Gudbrandsdalen region. The community is at the meeting point between east and west. The valley is rain shadowed and therefore one of the most arid places in Europe with an annual precipitation of 250mm (10 inc) per year. It has a subarctic climate.

    Industry

    Due to the lack of rain, Agriculture has been enabled by elaborate irrigation systems for hundreds of years. The area is green and productive rather than being desert like. There are long traditions of pig breeding in the municipality. 19% of the population is involved in agriculture and timber.

    The main village in Skjåk is Bismo, which has the Otta River flowing through it.

    Fun fact: 78% of the municipality is part of a national park.

    Gamle Strynefjellsvegen

    Tourist Road/Detour

    Gamle Strynefjellsvegen is one of Norway’s 18 national tourist roads. It’s the old road that came up here from Stryn.

    Unfortunately I have not done this road, so I can’t say too much about it. We were originally going to do it as a detour, but the weather was too bad. It takes about 45 minutes one way, so if you have the time I highly recommend it. To get back to this point quickly, you can take Highway 15 back.

    Click here to visit the website for the Gamle Strynefjellsvegen route.

    Lom Municipality

    You enter Lom municipality. 

    Lom

    Lom is a beautiful town and well worth a visit when in Norway. It is located between some of Norway’s most famous national parks and is home to Lom Stave Church, one of the most impressive stave churches left. 

    Continue the drive

    Sognefjellet Tourist Road

    From Lom you can get to the Sognefjellet Tourist Road, one of the 18 National Tourist Roads in Norway. 

    Previous Route

    Trollstigen Tourist Road

    Drive from Åndalsnes to Geiranger on one of the most famous tourist drives in Norway. 

    This drive is part of the multi-day series “The Ultimate Norwegian Road-trip”, where we cover the best of Norway in an incredible 10 day drive. You can view the whole road-trip via the link below. 

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!