Stave Churches

  • Bergen, Stave Churches

    How to get to Fantoft Stave Church

    How to get to Fantoft Stave Church

    If you’re spending a few days in Bergen, it’s well worth getting out of the city to explore the surrounding region. A popular place to go is the Edvard Grieg Museum, or you can go to one of the mountains for hike, but one of my suggestions is to go and visit Fantoft Stave Church.

    Many people ask me during my walking tours how to get there, and I’ve even had some say that they tried to get there and couldn’t find it! I think one of the reasons about why it’s so confusing is because it can be a little confusing on GPS, and there are also two ways to get to Fantoft – one hard and one easy.

    In this article, I’ve provide an easy to follow overview of how to get to Fantoft Stave Church. I’ll also explain a little bit about the church so you have some information about what you’ll be visiting.

    In this article...

    Bergen Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    History of Fantoft Stave Church

    If you are wondering what is a stave church, I have a whole dedicated page for that. You can visit by clicking here.

    Fantoft Stave Church wasn’t built on this site. It was originally constructed around the year 1150 at Fortun in Sogn, a village on the innermost point of the Sognefjord in Western Norway. If you drive on the Sognefjellet Tourist Road, you pass the site where the church used to stand. The church stood there until 1879, when the town needed a new church. This was fairly common at the time; towns were growing due to better hygiene and health conditions, and in the 19th century it was a requirement that churches could fit a substantial percentage of the population.

    The man who owned the region Fantoft, then a farming area, Consul Fredrik Georg Gade, decided to buy the stave church and rebuild it on his property. The church was moved piece-by-piece and reconstructed on his farm. Some renovations were done to the church to make it look more like Borgund Stave Church.

    Arson

    Fantoft Stave Church stood as a popular attraction until the 6th of June 1992, when it was destroyed by arson. This was the first in a string of church burnings by members of the early Norwegian black metal scene. However, at first it was believed that the church fire was caused by lightning or an electrical fail.

    Varg Vikenes, from the band Burzum, was found guilty of burning four churches in Norway. He had been accused of also burning Fantoft, but was found not guilty for that church. The jury has since called this an error but did not overturn the decision. This is probably because a photograph of the burnt church appears on the cover of the 1993 Burzum EP called Aske, the Norwegian word for ‘ashes’.

    Reconstruction

    Fantoft was reconstructed according to what it looked like before, and since 1997 it has had a fence around it to protect the church from any future arson attacks. There are also a number of security cameras in the area.

    Church Appearance

    The church today heavily resembles Borgund Stave Church, which has been used as the model for a number of church renovations.

    One of the most characteristic features are the dragon heads, which are on the roof. These are a pagan symbol to protect the building against evil forces. At the top of the church is a rooster weathervane, which represents Catholicism and St. Peter.

    The stone cross outside the church is an original cross, believed to have been made in Norway before the first churches were built. It was moved here and the grave is fake to make the church look more authentic.

    Detailed overviews of how stave churches are constructed can be found on my stave church page.

    The Two Paths to Fantoft

    As I mentioned at the beginning, there are two paths to Fantoft: an easy one and a complicated one.

    The easy one is reached by driving or taking the Bybanen. The complicated one is reached by taking the public bus.

    Why is the complicated one, well, complicated? To get to the church from the public bus it’s a very steep path that is guaranteed to be slippery in winter. It’s also not as well-marked as the other path, so it’s easy to get lost. The bus also takes longer and requires one change.

    Getting to Fantoft: the Bybanen

    The best way to get to Fantoft Stave Church is to take the Bybanen from Bergen city centre.

    The Bybanen is the light-rail that goes between the city centre and the airport. From the first stop on the line, Byparken, it will take around 20 minutes to get to Fantoft.

    How to buy a ticket? Easy! There are ticket machines at the Byparken station. You can also download the Skyss app and use that.

    Where to get off? Easy! The stop is called ‘Fantoft’.

    Walking to Fantoft (from Bybanen)

    Okay, here’s the easiest way to walk there without getting lost.

    1. Once you get off the Bybanen, turn left
    2. You’ll see a Meny supermarket. Turn left onto the road just after the Meny (Fantoftvegen is the name)
    3. Follow Fantoftvegen. It will go up-hill slightly. You’ll pass a plant shop across the street on the right.
    4. You’ll eventually see a huge apartment block on the left that looks like a massive roof. You’re getting close! (See picture below for what the building looks like)
    5. Eventually, across the street from the apartment block is the parking for Fantoft Stave Church
    6. The road veers off to the left for a huge concrete office building. To the right of that road, you’ll see a walking path with a sign that says “Stavkirke” – that means stave church!
    7. Follow the walking path for a couple minutes. There will be a huge rock in the middle, and the path kind of (but not really) splits in two. Head to the left
    8. There is Fantoft Stave Church!

    In total, the whole walk takes less than 10 minutes and is not very steep.

    What if I take a taxi?

    Taxi’s are much easier than public transport, of course. However, Norwegian taxi’s are very expensive. Estimate it to cost at least 200 NOK for a one way trip. There is also no taxi rank near Fantoft, so you’ll have to call a taxi to come and get you.

    Visiting inside the church

    While it does look nicer outside than it does inside, I do recommend visiting the inside of Fantoft Stave Church.

    The church is open to the public throughout the summer months.

    In 2022, the church will be open from the 15th of May until the 15th of September and it costs 70 NOK per adult to visit the church.

    You can visit their website here: https://fantoftstavkirke.no/informasjon/

    It’s in Norwegian, but the important bits are clear to see.

    Final Thoughts

    Overall, there’s no need to overcomplicate it by using public buses. Fantoft is very easy to access with the light rail Bybanen. While the bus stops look closer on Google Maps, the path is steep and poorly marked. the light rail is lovely and the path is a pleasant walk. If you follow my route, you’ll be able to visit Fantoft Stave Church easily during your stay in Bergen.

    Bergen Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide
  • Flåm, Lærdal, Stave Churches

    Why You Should Visit Borgund Stave Church

    Why You Should Visit Borgund Stave Church

    No trip to Norway is complete without a visit to Borgund Stave Church. But why this church out of the 28 remaining stave churches in the country? I’ll admit, Borgund Stave Church is not my favourite in the country, but it is very important. After all, Bogund is exceptionally well preserved and recognised as the most distinctive stave church in Norway. So, if you want to get an idea of the original stave churches, this one is great.

    Borgund Stave Church is about 30km southeast of the town Laerdal, which is close to Flåm. The church stands on the historic main road between east and west Norway. Today the European Highway 16 (E16) follows the old main road. It’s one of the best known, most photographed, and best-preserved stave churches in the country.

    I’ve written a useful overview of Borgund Stave Church, so you know why it’s so special. Also, it’s nice to know what to look for when visiting! If you have any tips or questions, please leave them in the comments.

    In this article...

    Lærdal Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Borgund Stave Church

    Early History & Position

    The exact age of Borgund Stave Church is unknown. It is possibly as old as 1150 when looking at the timber. However, the church is generally regarded as being from around the year 1200. It is dedicated to the apostle Andrew.

    Borgund Stave Church is on the historic main road between east and west Norway, which was primarily used as a trade route for over 1000 years. This part of the valley widens, and the Laerdal River flows through it. With its strategic position, it’s clear to see why it became such an important place of worship. But it’s not just about trade: the valley has an abundance of pine trees, and it was necessary to build close to a pine forest. The valley is also sheltered in this section.

    The first written mention of Borgund Stave Church is in a land register in the diocese of Bergen, written down shortly after 1350. Borgund is in many written documents as the church has always been important to the study of stave churches.

    Important Worshipping Site

    The location of the church is important. Being on the main road meant that travellers couldn’t help but be influenced by the church and the new Catholic religion. There was a sacrificial site on the hill, and animal bones have been found there. Perhaps the area was once used by pagans, giving another reason for building a church here. The old stone altar in the church probably once stood on the sacrificial site.

    Construction Method

    The church is very well documented, especially compared to other stave churches in the country. Stave churches get their name from their construction method. Here at Borgund, you can see the vertical wooden beams along the walls holding up the roof.

    The church is built according to a basilica plan with a raised central nave. Structurally, the building is a ‘cube within a cube’, each cube being independent of one another. The inner ‘cube’ has continuous columns that rise from the ground level to support the roof. ‘Saint Andrew Crosses’ link the columns: these carry supports that offer the visual equivalent of a ‘second story’. While not a functional gallery, it is reminiscent of contemporary second-story galleries elsewhere in Europe.

    Around the exterior of the church is a corridor with a roof. A guide once said that this is where the Vikings would keep their swords and shields while they attended church. But another common theory is that it was where people gathered before and after mass, and the roof provided shelter.

    Dragon Heads

    One of the most known characteristics of a stave church is its dragons’ heads on the roof, but very few stave churches in Norway have dragon’s heads. Borgund Stave Church is one of the very few with carved dragon’s heads. They are from the 18th century and likely copies of the earlier heads.

    Dragons heads are also found on Lom Stave Church and Urnes Stave Church. I visited both on my Ultimate Norwegian Roadtrip.

    Why dragons heads? I’m working on a separate article that explains the construction and symbolism in stave churches in much more depth, but we can talk about the dragons’ heads a little here too. Christianity came to this region around 997, around 200 years before Borgund Stave Church. It’s believed that the population continued to keep to the pagan tradition and faith well into the Christian times. Because of that, many pagan symbols with pre-Christian backgrounds, including dragons, have made it onto Christian buildings.

    Dragons’ heads feature on Viking ships, and they are believed to keep evil spirits away. That is one reason why they are on stave churches. Another reason is that the construction of the roof is like shipbuilding, and since dragons feature on ships, they should be on the roof too.

    Fun fact: the dragons’ heads weren’t only for style: they also formed the churches drainage system!

    Changes after the Reformation

    Stave churches were not spared from the Reformation that swept Norway in the 1530s. The conversion to Lutheran Protestantism saw many changes in these old Catholic Churches. At Borgund, benches line the walls: during Catholic times, it was compulsory to stand for hours! The pulpit and nave are from Lutheran times, and the walls are rose-painted: some of the rose-painting has survived.

    Another common feature of a post-Reformation church is the introduction of windows so the community could read scripture. Borgund got many new windows but all except one have been removed in a later renovation.

    19th century growth & restoration

    The community around Borgund experienced a huge rise in population in the early 19th century. By the 1840s the stave church was too small for the public. The new Borgund Church is from 1868, the same year service at the stave church ended. Rather than tear the stave church down, as what happened to many stave churches, Borgund was preserved. This is probably because it had been so well documented and painted throughout history. The general perception had been that Borgund was special. So, it was sold to the Preservation for Ancient Norwegian Monuments.

    A large amount of restoration work was done on the church to bring it closer to its medieval form. The pews were removed, except for the ones from the 1150s along the wall. The window openings were closed, except for one window. Some of the original paintwork was restored too.

    Wooden carvings

    Like Urnes Stave Church (which is UNESCO World Heritage-listed), Borgund Stave Church has a lot of detail around its western portal. In addition to animal motifs, there are acanthus vines, fighting snakes and flying dragons. Due to being found in many places in this part of Norway, they are places under a collective term called the Sogn-Valdres Group (Sogn and Valdres are two regions: Sogn after the Sognefjord and Valdres in central Norway).

    Why pagan carvings around the door? Well, like the dragons’ heads, it’s believed the new Christians kept to some of their pagan traditions. Another reasoning is that Christian authorities may have interpreted the pagan symbols as the struggle between good and evil, in line with Christian medieval art. After all, in Christian art, the dragon was often used as a symbol for the devil. So, the carvings probably had a protective quality. The carvings at Urnes Stave Church are also read as the struggle between good and evil, or between paganism and Christianity.

    Sadly part of the carvings was damaged after the church door was rebuilt in the 1820s. One of the stave churches caught fire in 1822 and 113 people died because the doors opened inwards and they were unable to get out. After that, a rule was made that all churches had to have doors that opened outwards.

    Runic inscriptions

    When visiting a stave church, always be on the lookout for rune inscriptions! There are several ones here. Most are on the walls of the church’s west portal. One reads: “Thor wrote these runes in the evening at the St. Olav’s Mass”.

    Interior decoration

    The interior of Borgund is very dark, so it is useful to have a guide with you. They have torches and can show you all the individual features.

    There is little inside, and some may be disappointed, but it is also very true to what stave churches looked like inside during medieval times. There is a row of benches along the wall from the 1150s that were used by the elderly. There’s also a soapstone font, an altar from the 17th century, a 16th-century lectern, and a 16th-century cupboard for storing altar vessels.

    Inside you’ll be able to see the twelve free-standing columns that support the naves elevated central space and the Saint Andrews Crosses connecting them. The original floors have been preserved but are today covered due to the number of people visiting.

    The many Borgunds

    Because Borgund Stave Church is so well documented throughout history, and today it is famous for being the most distinctive stave church, many other churches have taken inspiration from it. It has served as the inspiration for the reconstruction of Fantoft Stave Church in Bergen. The Gustav Adolf Stave Church in Germany, built in 1908, is modelled after Borgund Stave Church. There are also three replicas in the USA: Chapel in the Hills in South Dakota, Lyme in Connecticut and Washington Island in Wisconsin. Furthermore, the stave church at the Norwegian pavilion in Epcot in Walt Disney World Florida is a copy of Gol Stave Church, which was reconstructed to look more like Borgund Stave Church.

    New Borgund Church

    Don’t skip a visit to the new Borgund Church from 1868. It’s built in the dragestil and seats 175. Dragestil is a Norwegian architectural style that emerged during the period of National Romanticism when the country was interested in preserving the medieval style of construction – especially when it came to stave churches.

    Exterior bell tower

    Another exterior feature is the bell tower. It dates back to the middle of the 13th century and is the only original free-standing bell tower in stavework in Norway today. The bells are fairly new: one of the medieval bells is in the new Borgund Church.

    Visiting Borgund Stave Church

    When you visit, you have to park at the visitor centre and buy a ticket inside. Then, it’s about a 200-metre walk to the stave church – you have to cross the main road, so be careful! There will be a staff member by the church gate, and you won’t be allowed in without a ticket. Try and time your visit with a guided tour – it’s necessary to truly appreciate all the fine details in the church. Just ask when buying your ticket.

    The visitor centre is also worth your time. It has a small museum with items from the church, plus an excellent gift shop and café.

    The surrounding area is rich in cultural heritage. Close by is the King’s Road, which is the preserved part of the ancient road between east and west. Take a detour and drive along the old part, parking along the way to do Vindhellvegen, an old hairpin road turned hiking trail. It’s a short and easy path.

    I recommend having a rental car, but you can get to Borgund via public buses. There are a few a day that links you with Sogndal, Laerdal and Flåm, so you’ll have to plan well. In summer, there are guided bus tours from Flåm that I’d recommend over relying on public buses. The drive from Flåm is a little under one hour.

    Opening Hours: 15 May 2021 – 10 October 2021 daily 10am – 5pm

    Tickets: Adults 100 NOK / Children 40 NOK

    Up-to-date and more detailed info can be found here: https://www.stavechurch.com/our-stave-churches/borgund-stave-churc/?lang=en

    Parking: Free by the visitor centre. Do not park next to the stave church

    Restrooms: Inside the visitor centre

    Resources

    Lærdal Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide
  • Sogndal, Sognefjord, Stave Churches

    The Historic Market Town: Kaupanger Stave Church

    The Historic Market Town: Kaupanger Stave Church

    No trip to the Sognefjord is complete without a visit to Kaupanger Stave Church. It’s a tall church standing proudly alongside the fjord; in fact, it’s the largest church in Vestland county. While Kaupanger may seem like a sleepy village today, during the Viking Age it was one of the busiest settlements in Norway. Also, as the name suggests, it was an important trading place. 

    Kaupanger is on the way to the Laerdal ferry from Sogndal, so be sure to take the quick detour and visit this church! That’s exactly what I did back in September 2020. Here’s my guide to what you can see at Kaupanger Stave Church. 

    In this article...

    Sogndal Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    The market village Kaupanger

    Kaupanger has been a settlement since at least the Viking Age, though likely before as well. Kaupang is an old Norse word for trading or marketplace, and you’ll see the name throughout Norway. The latter half of the name angr means ‘fjord’ or ‘harbour’. So, the name means ‘buy harbour’. It’s like the literal translation of Copenhagen. 

    Kaupanger likely was one of the starting points for the Viking expeditions. Additionally, it was a tingstad, meaning meeting place and administrative centre. Kaupanger is mentioned in old documents as one of the 16 densely populated centres in Norway. 

    The importance of Kaupanger declined after the Black Death (Plague) in 1349. At some point, the market moved across the fjord to Laerdal. It is not known when Laerdal took over, but it is first mentioned in 1656 and by that point, it had been operating for a while. 

    A church is established in Kaupanger

    A church in Kaupanger was first mentioned in 1308, but the church is much older than that. The present church stands on the ruins of two previous churches. These churches had load-bearing pillars placed directly into the ground. This causes the logs to rot much quicker and is probably why they replaced the churches. 

    An old burial ground existed in the area before they built a church. The oldest tombs are from the second half of the 10th century, and the graves are according to Christian customs.

    So, Kaupanger Stave Church is from around the time Christianity was sweeping across Norway. Dendrochronology has revealed that the timber used for building the church is from 1137. Kaupanger is mentioned in Sverre’s Saga in 1184 when King Sverre burned the village down as punishment for the villagers disobeying him. The stave church likely survived this attack. 

    Even though, as we’ll read, the church has undergone a huge restoration, it is one of the stave churches that is the best taken care of. 

    The stave church with the most staves

    The nave of Kaupanger stave church has 22 staves, making this the church with the largest number of staves in any one stave church. There are eight on each of the longest sides and then three on the shorter sides. 

    The staves are unlike the other staves found in this fjord region. They don’t have crosses or beams linking them together, as seen in Borgund and Urnes Stave Churches. Additionally, the portals are not equipped with dragon ornaments or other rich decorations. These types of decorations are in most stave churches. It is unknown why this church is different in that regard. 

    Like every stave church, this one has changed over the years. Before I get into the restoration work, I’ll tell you about some of the early changes to the church. In the Middle Ages, extensions of the ship out west meant more space inside. This expansion likely took place before the Black Death. Additionally, there used to be a hallway around the church. It is where (it’s thought) the Vikings left their shields before going inside. They removed the hallway in the 17th century. It’s possible that the roofing and annex were added to the church shortly after the Reformation. 

    The ‘Brutal Modernisation’ of Kaupanger Stave Church

    In 1862, Kaupanger Stave Church underwent a huge renovation. Today, historians refer to it as a ‘brutal modernisation’ – my new favourite term. Basically, what they did was cut windows into the sides of the church, placed white exterior panelling around the exterior, and added dark roof tiles to the roof. The idea was to make it look like the 19th-century churches going up all over the country in a Classicist style. The Kaupanger Manor, which stands nearby, had a similar renovation. 

    The new style of the church didn’t last too long. In 1959-1960, work was carried out to un-renovate the church and take it back to its 17th-century look. Despite the heavy changes it underwent, most of the medieval structure is preserved. Phew.

    What's Inside

    The interior is from after the Reformation in the 16th century when Norway changed from being Catholic to Lutheran. The pulpit, altarpiece and font are all from the 17th century. They are donations from the major landowner and owner of Kaupanger Manor, Gjøde Pederssøn. A memorial plaque over the choir is believed to be for him and his family. An earlier altarpiece, believed to be from 1609, is now in Jostedal Church. 

    Meanwhile, at the Bergen Museum

    When the ‘brutal modernisation’ was underway, some items from the church went to the Historic Museum in Bergen. The most known piece is an antemensale, or altar table front. It’s made of oak and depicts scenes from the lives of saints including St. Olav, St. Andreas, and St. Nicholas. It is from the second half of the 12th century. Two pillars with decorations, two dragons’ heads, and an animal head were also moved to the museum in 1862. 

    Around the Area

    The stave church and Kaupanger Manor are closely related, and the property stands next to the church. Today, you’ll see the long red barn. The main manor house, a white timber structure, is down by the fjord and difficult to see from the road. Archaeological excavations show that the farm goes back to 1800BC. What the farm originally looked like is unknown. However, it has always been one of the major farms in the area. The property came under the ownership of the Knagenhjelm Family, a Danish and Norwegian noble family. They bought the property sometime in the 1600s, and the direct descendants still own the property today. 

    Close by is the Heiberg Collection: one of the oldest museums in the country. It is from 1909 and consists of a collection of local buildings to show how people have lived and worked here from the Middle Ages until the present day. You can view their website here: http://dhs.museum.no/en

    The church today

    Today Kaupanger Stave Church is a Norwegian Cultural Heritage Site. The Society for the Preservation of Ancient Norwegian Monuments owns the property. 

    The church is open in the summer months and operates as a museum. Guided tours are available and highly recommended. 

    Up-to-date visitor information can be found here:

    https://www.stavechurch.com/kaupanger-stavkirke/

    Otherwise, the church is still the parish church and is used for service. 

    Kaupanger Stave Church is located just off the main road from Sogndal down to the ferry pier that goes over to Laerdal. 

    Resources

    Sogndal Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide
  • Lom, Stave Churches

    At the Crossroads: Lom Stave Church

    At the Crossroads: Lom Stave Church

    If you’re on a road trip through Norway or visiting with a tour group, it is very likely you’ll pass Lom Stave Church. Built at the crossroads between east and west, this stave church is very close to Geiranger, four tourist roads (Gamle Strynefellsvegen, Trollstigen, Sognefjellet, Valdresflye) and the highway between Oslo and Trondheim. Lom Stave Church may not be the oldest but is very well preserved. It is one of my favourites. The interior is fascinating, the guides are wonderful, and Lom itself is a charming and delightful town.

    I’ve been to Lom Stave Church many times with groups. I’ve heard the guided tours many times and wandered around the church photographing it. I took my husband back in September 2020, which is when most of the photos are from. We did it after driving up from Geiranger!

    Here’s an article about what makes Lom Stave Church so special. When you visit, I recommend waiting for a guided tour. Still, it’s great to know a little about what to expect before you go. That’s what this article attempts to do – a little sneak peek at what you’ll see at Lom Stave Church.

    In this article...

    Lom Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    History of Lom Stave Church

    Lom Stave Church originally stood as a triple nave stave church. Inside are free-standing inner columns to support the raised section of the roof. This type of church is among the oldest of the stave churches, and Lom is one of the largest stave churches remaining in Norway. The church is likely from the end of the 12th century. when historians did a dendochronoglical dating of the timber, it’s believed the timber was felled around the year 1157.

    The church stands near an ancient road between east and west. The rectory was an important place for travellers to rest, and this went on until the late 19th century. At that point, hotels began to take over. The road was busy until the Black Death affected Norway in 1349. After the Black Death, it took centuries for Norway to recover. The church remained unchanged for almost 300 years due to a lack of human and financial resources.

    When the Reformation took place in Norway, it didn’t immediately impact Lom Stave Church. However, the new owners removed the altar, crucifix and Catholic symbols.

    From the 17th Century Onwards: Renovation, Renovation, Renovation

    When the population started to pass its pre-Black Death levels, Lom Stave Church became too small for the congregation. The first remodelling came in 1608 when the addition of the new flat ceiling and an unknown artist put nice decorations on it.

    The next renovation came in 1634 when builders added the annex to the west. Thirty years later, the church was once again too small. A part of the stave wall on each side was removed and the church got arms facing north and south. The old, external portals from the Middle Ages were removed and are now on the end walls of the cross arms. With this, Lom Stave Church became a cruciform church. The original stave church is the middle part of the church today. The builder was Werner Olsen, who renovated the famous churches at Våga and Ringebu.

    Restoration work on the church was done throughout the years, including throughout the 20th and early 21st century. Yet, the appearance of the church has not changed much since this major 17th restoration.

    Archaeological Excavations

    In 1973, archaeological excavations took place under the church. The excavations uncovered many important things. They found a total of 2,270 coins, most of them from between 1200 and 1300. Lom Stave Church is the church in Norway with the largest number of coins found under the church.

    You can see pictures of the coins here: https://www.dokpro.uio.no/umk/funn/lom.html

    They discovered post holes and traces of an older building. The older building was most likely a post-church, which is a predecessor to the stave church. Graves under the church and were buried according to Christian custom. The graves were affected by later additions of posts, but this proves that a church building has been on the site for hundreds of years.

    Another important find was a stick with rune inscriptions on it. It is from the 14th century. They are the Nordic region’s oldest letter of courtship. One end of the stick has marks in gravel and stone, meaning it comes from a walking stick. We know the owner was Håvard because he marked his name on the inscription. It says:

    “Håvard sends Gudny God’s greeting and his friendship. And now it is my full wish to ask for your hand if you do not want to be with Kolbein. Think about your marriage plans and let me know your will.”

    So sweet!

    The theory is that Håvard broke off the stick on the way to church and wrote the inscription. He gave it to Gudny as he was entering the church. She read the message but put it under a crack on the floor. It seems she didn’t reciprocate the feelings! She was sitting at the end reserved for the upper class, so she was likely ‘too good’ for poor Håvard.

    Lastly, a parchment scroll from the 13th century was found under the church. It has notes and lyrics to music written in honour of St. Thomas Beckett, the Archbishop of Canterbury.

    Interior decorations

    As we know, the church underwent major renovations in the 17th century. This is also when most of the inventory is from.

    This symbol represents a dragon or lion-like creature. It is likely an old Viking symbol to smooth the forced conversion the local pagans made to Christianity.

    The wall decorations are from 1608, but guides will be able to show you the early decorations in the church. They are a little hard to see and need a torch.

    The free-standing staves from the original construction still stand in the interior. Later, perhaps to reinforce the structure, they placed St. Andrew’s Crosses between the staves.

    The pulpit is from the 1790s.

    The church has a collection of motifs and paintings. Some of them are by Eggert Munch, a descendant of Edvard Munch. He was a clergyman’s son from Vågå, a town now known for its connection to the Munch family.

    You seen see lots of pictures of the interior and the original floor-plans here: https://kunsthistorie.com/fagwiki/Lom_stavkirke

    Men used to sit on the right, while women would sit on the left. Prisoners sat at the back with the sheriff in the caged area.

    There is a town flag in the church. It has a spoon on it, which is the symbol of Lom. Because of its position in the mountains and little rainfall, large spoons were traditionally used to spread water over the fields.

    The apse was added in 1240, when Gothic cathedrals made an apse a necessity for churches across Europe. Lepers came to the grilled window in the apse for a blessing. The decorations inside were done in 1740. You can see it in the far-left of the image below.

    Exterior decorations

    The stave church is one of the few in which the medieval dragon’s heads remain on the roof. The ones on the roof today are a copy; the originals are in the stave church exhibition. This is in the building by the parking lot. It’s the old school building.

    Much like Borgund Stave Church, Lom Stave church used to have a corridor around the outside. The theory is that this is where all the Vikings would leave their shields when they went to service. Maybe it was later used to stand under cover while waiting to go inside.

    In the cemetery are several soapstone medieval crosses. Some tombstones from the 18th century still stand in the cemetery.

    Additional exhibition

    Head to the large building in the parking lot for an additional exhibition about Lom Stave Church. There are model churches, headstones and other artefacts. In the display case you’ll see the stick with the rune inscriptions described above.

    Visiting Lom Stave Church

    The church is a must if you are in the area. It is open throughout the summer and has fantastic guides in a variety of languages. There is no regular schedule; they’ll do it when you show up.

    Opening Hours and Admission

    Up to date information is found at stavechurch.com (click here).

    The church is open from June until September. The times vary according to the time of year, but it’s typically from 11am until 5pm. Tickets cost 90 NOK per person.

    Facilities

    There is a large free parking lot outside the church. It may be full of tour buses in the summer months.

    While there are no bathrooms on site, there is a bathroom (fee) beside the wooden building. Or, head across the road to Lom centre. Visit the bakery, buy some lunch, and use their (better) bathrooms for free). You’ll find lots of outdoor shops and a supermarket here.

    Resources

    Lom Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide
  • Åndalsnes, Molde, Stave Churches

    The oldest of the Møre type: Rødven Stave Church

    The oldest of the Møre type: Rødven Stave Church

    Everyone flocks to Åndalsnes to embark on an epic outdoors journey. Whether it be hiking one of the nearby mountains, heading out on the water, or even driving up the Trollstigen Scenic Road – Åndalsnes has it all. Still, for those who like history – like me! – you might want to take a short trip out of the town to visit the incredible Rødven Stave Church (Norwegian: Rødven stavkyrkje/stavkirke).

    If you are driving down from Molde and/or the Atlantic Road towards Åndalsnes, the stave church is more or less on the way. Built in the characteristic Møre type with the somewhat funny supporting beams, Rødven Stave Church is old and important to the town. I got to visit the church in September 2020. While it wasn’t open, like everything that year, it was fun getting to walk around outside. Here’s some information about the history and importance of the church, plus what you can do if you visit.

    In this article...

    Åndalsnes Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    History of Rødven Stave Church

    The Site & Early Church

    The village of Rødven isn’t an important village, though it is very pretty! Yet, the fjord it sits on – the Romsdalsfjord – was well populated in the old times and a thriving agricultural region. The site of the church doesn’t make sense to those of us today who have to drive to it. The road is very long, narrow and windy from the highway – but back then the main method of transport was boats. Located on the hillside, the church is visible from almost anywhere on the fjord. So, the site is the best place to build a community church.

    This is not the first church to stand on the site. In the 1960s, archaeological surveys discovered evidence of an earlier church. The predecessor to the stave church was the pillar church. This is where wooden beams go deep into the ground – and evidence of these pillars are on the site.

    Rødven Stave Church's History

    The age of Rødven Stave Church is unknown because the church has bits from different periods of history. Additionally, since this is such a rural church, very little is written on it throughout history. We do know that a heavy storm in 1689 took hold of the tower and blew it out to sea. This is around the time the church started to undergo a series of renovations. In 1712, the church was in poor condition and extensive work began to repair the church. Most of what we see today is from this renovation period. Again in the 19th century, the church was in poor condition. Authorities threatened to prosecute the owners of the church. Still, little work happened to the church.

    In 1908, the Society for the Preservation of Ancient Norwegian Monuments took over the responsibility of the church. Today their Romsdal division maintains the church. It is the responsibility of the farmers in the village to keep an eye on the church. Rødven Stave Church remains one of their most important projects. It is the oldest and only pre-Reformation Møre type church remaining, and the church is suffering from leaks and wall damage. The other Møre church remaining, Kvernes Stave Church, was recently discovered as being much younger than thought. It’s believed to be from the 1600s.

    Architecture & style

    As mentioned above, the church is the Møre type (Møre is the name of the region we are in), which is a unique type in Norway. What characterises a Møre church is the external support beams holding the church up. It is pretty adorable to see a church like this held up by these massive beams, but they are essential to making sure the church doesn’t collapse. In other stave churches, these support beams are inside the church and are richly decorated. In Norwegian, these support beams are known as ‘skordene’.

    Another unique feature of the Møre churches is their simple interior. Rødven today by no means has a simple interior, but compared to other churches, the interior design is much plainer. Additionally, there are less external decorations than other stave churches. The church looks more like the predecessor ‘pillar church’ than a stave church.

    The church is made up of several pieces from different periods of history, making it tricky to characterise. Originally, it was a simple long church with a rectangular nave. The south portal is unique: it consists of twisted stalks ending in folded leaves. The south portal is likely from the first half of the 12th century and may have come from the earlier church.

    Most of the architecture found in the church today is from the renovation period of the 17th and 18th centuries. The external gallery around the church was removed around 1600, about the same time the chancel was pulled down and replaced. Of the original church, it’s believed that the pillars and inner walls are original. The panelling, tiles and windows on the church are from the latter half of the 18th century.

    Interior Decoration

    The interior is a mish-mash of everything. The ceiling is very low, making it feel cosy or claustrophobic, and the walls are richly painted but faded. Most of the interior is from the 1712 renovation.

    The oldest item inside the church is the life-size crucifix. It’s believed to be from between 1250 and 1275. It is one of Norway’s finest examples of early Gothic style. There is also a marble slag from the mid-1200s.

    Otherwise, the pulpit and altar are from 1712. The benches are from different periods in history. Some of them have the Danish/Norwegian King Christian IV’s monogram (1641), while others have Christian V’s monogram (1673). Benches are from after the Reformation; Catholic churches in Norway didn’t have benches. You had to stand through the several-hour Latin service. That was one pro of the new Lutheran religion: you could sit and listen to a much shorter Danish service!

    If you want to see some photos of the interior, there’s a huge collection of images here.

    Exterior Decoration & Surrounds

    Photos of the church from 15 years ago show bare wood and faded tar. However, when I visited in 2020 the church looks almost freshly tarred.

    Archaeological excavations in the 1960s found marks under the earth. These show that pillars were buried in the ground. Traces of settlement and tombs from the Iron Age and Roman times near the church were found. Also, coins from the 12th century were discovered under the present church.

    The portals are worth taking a look at as they depict different periods in history. On the north side, the portal is Romanesque and from the end of the 12th century. The south portal is unique to stave churches and has Gothic features from around the 13th century.

    The cemetery around the church is in its original spot.

    The new Rødven Church

    Rødven Stave Church isn’t an active church anymore; it has been this way since 1907. The new church, which is the bright red one across the street, is from 1907. It is the church the community uses today.

    Rødven Stave Church Today

    Sign out the front in Norwegian, English and German

    Rødven Stave Church is no longer an active church; it is a museum that is open in the summer months.

    There is one worship service every year. It’s on Olsok, the eve of St. Olav’s Day. This day is a celebration in Norway and the Faroe Islands, plus some parts of Sweden. The day commemorates St. Olav, who died in battle in 1030. After he was buried where today’s Nidaros Cathedral is in Trondheim, he became a saint for his contributions to establishing Christianity in Norway. Until the Reformation in the 16th century, Olsok was a major church feast. The late 19th and early 20th century saw a renewed interest in Olsok. The Roman Catholic Church in Norway recognises it as a major feast in the country. Meanwhile, the Lutheran Church recognises it primarily in Nidaros Cathedral and some other churches. Ever since 1930, the 29th of July (when he died in battle), St. Olav’s Day has been a flag day.

    Sign from the road Source: Google Maps

    Approaching the church (parking area to the right) Source: Google Maps

    Guided tours are available in the summer. The church is well signed from the main highway (Fv64) that links Kristiansund to Molde via the Atlantic Road and then onto Åndalsnes. Keep in mind the road between the highway and the church is very, very narrow and windy. Drive carefully.

    Good to know

    • Updated opening hours & admission fees can be found by clicking here.
    • Norwegian name: Rødven Stavkyrkje or stavekirke (all the signs are in Norwegian)
    • Parking: Free off-street parking, but small parking area
    • Facilities: None
    • Distance to Åndalsnes: 30 mins (32km / 20 miles)
    • Distance to Molde (via ferry): 1 hour 18 mins (43km / 27 miles)

    I hope you enjoyed this article and let me know in the comments if you have any questions. If you’ve been to the church, also let me know below!

    Åndalsnes Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide
  • Kristiansund, Stave Churches

    Why Kvernes Stave Church is Worth a Stop near the Atlantic Road

    Why Kvernes Stave Church is Worth a Stop near the Atlantic Road

    When doing the Atlantic Road, it’s worth knowing that it’s a rather short drive. The best way to enjoy the scenic road is to drive all over the region – not only the famous stretch over the islands. One of the most popular places to head to is Kvernes Stave Church. This is one of three stave churches in the Møre og Romsdal county. It has a fascinating story that came to its grand conclusion in 2020. The church is a short drive from the Kristiansund end of the Atlantic Road, so it’s worth heading here. I visited the church on a very wet and windy day in September 2020. While it was closed to the public, I got to walk around the outside and admire this unique building. Here’s my guide to what Kvernes Stave Church so special.

    In this article...

    Kristiansund Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    The Earliest Church

    The first church on this site was likely built in the 1300s. In the Middle Ages, there were 53 stave churches in the Møre og Romsdal County, and Kvernes was one of them. The name, kvernes, comes from the Old Norse word hverfa, meaning ‘to turn’. This is in reference to the headland. Kvernes Stave Church stands high on the hill, and it is visible to any boats passing on the fjord. The area around the church is well documented in history and was a wealthy property. There are many heritage monuments (grave fields, the Ting district, the phallic stone, place names like Lunden) that show the importance of the farm here in the Iron Age and early medieval period. The location of a church here supports this.

    Yet, the church we see today is not the original church. That’s where things get interesting.

    When was this church built?

    Until 2020, there was a lot of debate over the age of this church. The original theory was that the stave part of the church (the nave) is from the 14th century, while there are extensions from the 17th century. The dating of the church was unknown, but it was always considered the youngest stave church remaining in the country. Knowledge of the church was largely based on guesswork since most of the archives were destroyed by a fire in 1734.

    The best evidence of the age comes from the epitaph in the nave. It commemorates minister and sawmill owner Anders Erichsen (1575-1662) and his contribution to the church. The epitaph says that he commissioned the construction of the chancel and the baptistry in 1633. The epitaph doesn’t mention anything about the nave, so he might have funded renovations.

    A breakthrough in 2020

    The church made history in 2020. Through dendrochronology, which is the study of the number and width of tree rings to establish the age of building materials, the church was found to be from 1633. The church is unique because the middle of the church is in the stave technique, which was not used in the 17th century. Meanwhile, the extensions are in the more appropriate-of-its-time cog method. Stave churches were Catholic, but in 1536 the Reformation happened, and Norway converted to Lutheranism.

    Stave churches became Lutheran, but new Lutheran churches were not built in the stave style. This is not only because of its Catholic origins but also because the style was outdated. The fact that Kvernes was built 100 years into the new religion and in an outdated method is very unique.

    It’s worth mentioning that the theory that the church was new is not new. The first theory that the church was post-Reformation is from 2010 by stave church researcher Ola Storsletten.

    The epitaph is now seen differently. It’s assumed that Anders Erichsen funded a partial construction of the church, but the church in its entirety is from 1633.

    This makes Kvernes very special. It is the only stave church in Norway built after the Middle Ages and Reformation. Now there is a theory that Grip Stave Church is also post-Reformation. If this is proven to be true, Rødven Stave Church will be the only Middle Ages stave church in the county.

    Architectural Style, or ‘What’s with the Supporting Beams?’

    Kvernes Stave Church is built in the Møre style, which is characterised by those supporting beams you see on either side of the church. The rough sloping beams hold the staves to the ground. The only other church that looks like this is Rødven Stave Church. It’s not known if they are original beams or if they have been added later on.

    So, the beams are a way of reinforcing the church. It could be because the church is exposed to bad weather and needs extra support, or the church was slipping on the ground and needed further support. In any case, it creates a very unique look!

    The Møre type also has intermediate staves in the long walls. In contrast with other stave churches, the Møre churches have roof beams across the nave.

    The church has undergone later renovation. Parts of the church were rebuilt in 1776, and in 1810 the steeple was added.

    Interior Decoration

    Most of the interior decoration is from the 17th century. The walls are richly painted with rosemaling style. There are also some depictions of biblical scenes. The walls were later whitewashed, but efforts have been made in recent years to uncover the original decorations.

    The altarpiece is unique. It’s believed it was made in the Hanseatic city of Lubeck in the 17th century.

    The pulpit is from the 1630s and is of a Dutch character. With this and the Hanseatic links considered, it’s clear this property had links to the international export of dried fish and timber.

    Another unique piece is the 300-year-old ship hanging in the nave. It has Danish flags on it.

    Preserving the Church

    A new church was built for Kvernes in the mid-19th century, and Kvernes Stave Church was no longer used. There were plans to demolish it. Luckily at the last minute, the church was bought by a group of individuals. They didn’t keep it; they donated it as a gift to the Society for the Preservation of Ancient Norwegian Monuments. The Preservation still owns the church today, and it operates as a museum in the summer.

    Visiting the Church

    The church is very well signed from the Atlantic Road. There’s only one road around the island it’s on, so you can’t get lost. There is a large parking area, and the church is a short walk from the parking lot.

    There’s a walking trail around the church where you can pass the cultural sites. Unfortunately, I didn’t go because we had a lot of heavy rain. There are three stave churches in the region: besides Kvernes, you can also visit Rødven south of Molde, or you can visit Grip Stave Church on Grip Island. We went to the first one as it’s easier to get to.

    The new Kvernes Church stands right next to the stave church, like what we saw at Torpo Stave Church.

    Kvernes Stave Church is open in the summer months. Guided tours are available in many languages.

    Close by the church are many signs with detailed information about the church in English, Norwegian and German.

    Close by is the Kvernes Rural Museum, which is an open-air museum with a collection of old farm buildings. The museum represents a 17th-century coastal farm. By the sea is a fisherman’s cabin and some preserved historic boats. The museum also has an archaeological exhibition with finds from the Stone Age Fosna culture, which (if you read into the history of Kristiansund), were some of the first peoples in Norway. Click here for info about the museum.

    Toilets are on the site, but no shops.

    Click here to view opening hours & prices.

    This is all about Kvernes Stave Church! Sure, it’s not as old as the other stave churches. But I think we can agree there’s something special about this church’s story. I hope you get to visit it on your Norwegian adventure.

    Kristiansund Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide
  • Gudbrandsdalen, Ringebu, Stave Churches

    Exploring the history of Ringebu Stave Church

    Exploring the history of Ringebu Stave Church

    Ringebu Stave Church is one of the more famous stave churches of the 28 remaining. After all, it’s located in the popular Gudbrandsdalen (Gudbrand Valley) – it’s the only stave church there – and is very close to Lillehammer. The church is open to visitors in the summer months, and the nearby Prestegarden has an excellent museum. Additionally, Ringebu is one of the largest stave churches remaining.

    Its appearance is not very stave-like, and that’s because the church underwent a rebuilding around 1630. Some parts of the original stave church remain, and they are visible both inside and out.

    Here’s my guide to Ringebu Stave Church.

    Ringebu Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide
    The Earliest Church

    The dating of this church is a little tricky. It is first mentioned in a diploma by a priest in 1270, but that diploma has now disappeared. When dating the timber, it was likely felled around 1192. It’s not the first church on the site; the site is likely a pre-Christian place of worship. In the 1980s archaeologists found post holes from an older church. Ringebu Stave Church is therefore an early 13th-century stave church. This makes it quite young compared to other stave churches.

    Borgund Stave Church

    The style of the stave church is of the ‘Borgund’ type – named after Borgund Stave Church. It is thus related to the stave churches found in Sogn and Valdres. This is useful information because, sadly, Ringebu Stave Church was rebuilt in 1630. What did it look like before 1630? We don’t really know. But looking at these better-preserved stave churches may offer a glimpse at the old Ringebu Stave Church.

    Click here to see a drawing of Ringebu Stave Church made in 1862.

    Rebuilding the church in 1630

    Ringebu Stave Church was rebuilt into a cruciform church in 1630. Why? Well, stave churches were small, dark, cold, lacked benches, and were Catholic. By 1630 Norway was Protestant, and major towns needed churches that could accommodate their needs. Some stave churches were able to avoid rebuilding, though most have had some form of renovation. Ringebu required a larger and more modern church, and so they rebuilt the stave church.

    The church got a new tower, choir, cross arms, and sacristy. Werner Olsen was in charge of the work. His renovation work is well known in Norway. He worked on Lom Stave Church and rebuilt the church in Vågå. The characteristic red tower is from 1631.

    The lower half of the walls were painted white in 1717; at the time the ceiling was much lower. During the last major restoration in 1921, they focused on restoring the original paint. They also tried to make the church look closer to its 17th-century form. They removed the old gallery, fixed the staves, and removed the lower ceiling.

    What's left of the original church?

    The nave is the original stave church. The 18 staves are still surrounding the nave. While the shape has changed a little, the 1921 efforts brought it back to its original shape.

    Ringebu Stave Church before the 1920-21 restoration (source)

    Ringebu Stave Church is one of the few that had transepts already in the Middle Ages. The walls in the north and south both still have traces of the transepts.

    The portals are also somewhat original. In the Middle Ages, the ship had two portals. The south portal is preserved, while the west portal is still in use. Originally, doors in stave churches were very narrow. This is because you had to enter the church alone and not bring any evil spirits with you – I guess they both couldn’t fit through the door! However, in 1822 there was a major fire in Grue Church on Pentecost, where many people perished. You can read about the event here.

    After this fire, new regulations said that the doors of churches needed to be very wide. Additionally, the door must open outwards and be unlocked throughout the service. Because of this, they altered the west portal with the new hinges and a wider frame. Still, you can see some traces of the old vine carvings around the portal. The ornamentation is often compared to the portal of Torpo Stave Church.

    The original stave church used to have a hallway around the exterior of the church. Marks from it are still visible in the east gable.

    The exterior of the church bears little resemblance of its first form. It’s unknown if the roof had dragons’ heads like Borgund, for example. Some very worn wooden fragments with a vine motif were found during an excavation in 1980.

    Restoration work images

    Amazingly, the 1920-1921 restoration was photographed. Below you can find some images from the restoration. They are hosted on digitaltmuseum.no and each link will open in a new tab.

    Archaeological Exploration

    The most famous archaeological survey of the church took place in 1980-1981. In total, archaeologists found around 900 coins. Most of them are from medieval times, especially the time of King Håkon Håkonsson (1217-1263). This also lends itself to the age of the church.

    As mentioned above, there are old post holes from an earlier church. The post-church, or pillar church as it is also known, is a forerunner of the stave church. The staves (posts) stood directly into the ground. This wasn’t great, because this exposed the wood to humidity, making it rot quickly. Stave Churches have stone foundations, or at least stone around the staves, to prevent this from happening. Click here to see a photo of Ringebu’s staves.

    Interior Decoration

    Click here to see a photo of the interior decoration.

    Inside the church, you’ll see the 18 staves, held together with St. Andrews crosses. This is commonly found in stave churches, perhaps most famously at Borgund Stave Church.

    The church has remnants of medieval art (click here to see some wall paintings). However, most of the decoration is from the 17th and early 18th century. The altarpiece in the baroque style and is from 1686. The altarpiece is the oldest preserved inventory from after the Reformation. On it are the names of the wealthy donors. The pulpit is from 1703. The King’s Monogram is for Frederik IV – he is the king who sold the country’s churches at auction to get some money.

    The chandelier is from the 18th century.

    The soapstone baptismal font is from the 12th century and comes from the old pillar church that stood here before the stave church.

    One of the most famous pieces of art inside the church is a figure of St. Laurentius. It is from 1250 (you can see it here). There are also two crucifixes from the 14th century. Two runic inscriptions are on the walls, as well as two animal figures and a human figure carved into the wood.

    There were no windows on the original stave churches. If anything, they had tiny circular holes high up on the church. Windows let in the cold, and cold was not a good thing when you had to spend hours in the church. In the pre-Lutheran days, the churchgoers had to stand during service, which was in Latin. Most people did not understand Latin, but church attendance was compulsory. There were some benches along the edge of the church for the frail, but otherwise, you had to stand. In the Lutheran times, benches were added and services were now in Danish, which was a minor improvement.

    Ringebu Prestgard seen from the church

    Ringebu Prestegard

    Close to Ringebu Stave Church is another site called the Ringebu Prestegard. It’s an ancient farm and old vicarage. It’s believed that at its peak there were over 50 buildings here, including outbuildings and farmhouses. Most are gone now; there are 5 listed buildings on the site today. The large main building is from 1743 after the last main building burned down. The site was a vicarage until 1991.

    The main building became a gallery around 1997, which it has been ever since. A café is also located on the site. There’s also a museum and exhibition about the stave church, including some of the archaeological finds on display. Exhibitions also cover the stories of the priests who lived here, the garden, and the vicarage.

    The garden is very old and is also listed for protection.

    There is a nice little path that leads from the church up to the Prestegard.

    The Legend of the Sister Bells

    In 2018 a novel was published in Norway called Søsterklokkene, or the Sister Bells, by Lars Mytting. It’s based on a very old legend about the bells at Ringebu Stave Church. The following is the legend, translated by me from the Ringebu Stave Church website.

    The story:

    A story is told about the bells in the church. The bells were given to the church as a sacrifice by a family from the farm “Vestad’ in the 18th century. Two Siamese twin girls lived there. They were healthy despite growing up together. However, one day one of the sisters became ill. Her parents thought she was going to die. They prayed to God for the daughter and promised to donate to bells to the church if she could live. They also asked if the girls could be allowed to die at the same time so they would not be separated. The girl recovered and the family kept their word.

    In Blaesterdalen, two bells were cast up and set up in the church. They were called the sister bells. They sounded so good that people thought there must be silver in the ore they were cast from. The rumours about these bells reached Christiania (Oslo). It was decided that one of the bells should be sent to Christiania and put in there. Out in the winter, they used sledges over Lake Mjøsa to transport the bells.

    However, while on the lake, the driver of the sledges noticed the ice was cracking. He took it as a sign that it was wrong to separate the sister bells. He turned the sledge around and started to make his way back home. However, he started to think that he may be mocked once he got home, so he turned around and decided to go back to Christiania. However, the ice broke and the bell sank to the bottom of the lake.

    In the spring, the bell was found, and a rope was attached to it. A group dragged the bell out of the water and onto the boat. Someone exclaimed arrogantly: “Now we have her, and she is going to the capital!”. Then the rope broke and the bell sank again.

    The cemetery

    There is quite a large cemetery with some very old gravestones surrounding the church. I came across this interesting display of old graves; they’ve clearly been moved from their original location but are kept due to their age. Perhaps there are some famous names here?

    Visiting the Church

    Opening Hours & Admission

    The church gate is open all year round, so you can walk around the exterior of the church for free.

    If you happen to be here between June and August, you can pay a small fee and go inside the church. The up-to-date opening hours and prices are at the Ringbu Stave Church website, which you can see by clicking here. They change every year, so it’s best to check the website. Their website is only in Norwegian – strange considering the tourist appeal – but the practical info is fairly self explanatory.

    The church also has guided tours available. I highly recommend taking a guided tour.C

    Written Information

    There are some information boards outside, though most of them are in Norwegian. They don’t put information boards up inside stave churches, which is why I recommend getting a guided tour.

    How to get here

    The stave church is well signed with brown signs off the E6, the main highway between Oslo and Trondheim. It’s located about 2km outside of Ringebu town, and the road up to the church is quite narrow. There’s a large parking out outside it.

    We stayed in an AirBNB a five-minute walk from the stave church. I highly recommend it – this isn’t a paid endorsement, we just really liked the place. It was also nice to walk to the church. Click here to see it.

    Ringebu Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide
  • Fagernes, Stave Churches, Valdres

    Hegge Stave Church

    Hegge Stave Church

    If you are planning to do the Valdresflye National Scenic Road, I recommend taking a detour to Hegge Stave Church. Located south of Beitostølen, Hegge Stave Church is a grand wooden church that has more or less been here since the 13th century. Like every one of the 28 remaining stave churches in Norway, Hegge Stave Church has a fascinating history. So, let’s get into it!

    In this article...

    Fagernes Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    The Early Years

    Hegge Stave Church is first mentioned in history in 1327, yet some of the logs date to the early 13th century. Hegge Stave Church is a mix of two previous stave churches. The church got this location in the 17th century.

    Buried Beneath the Surface

    Inside the church, you’ll be able to see the eight free-standing staves that are original from the Middle Ages. At the top of the staves are different facemasks, which we see in several stave churches including Borgund. Also, like Borgund, St. Andrews crosses link the staves together. On one of the staves is the rune inscription “Erling Arnson wrote these runes”. It may be the same Erling whose name we find on a rune inscription in Høre Stave Church nearby.

    There used to be a covered gallery all around the outside of the church. Legend says this is where the Vikings would leave their weapons so they wouldn’t get wet. I don’t know how accurate this is, but it’s an interesting image nonetheless! You’ll see the covered gallery in some stave churches today, like Fantoft and Borgund.

    The staves rise above the ceiling; the flat ceiling is fairly new.

    Today the building is in the basilica style.

    Oh Stave Church, Where Art Thou?

     

    Hegge Stave Church has had many major renovations. Looking at pictures today, you can tell it doesn’t look like a stave church. Sadly, this is common of many stave churches in Norway. At the same time, this restoration work guaranteed their protection from being torn down to make way for new churches.

    As mentioned above, the church was moved to its present location with parts from two previous churches. These parts may have come from two disused churches in Valdres, explaining the different dating’s on the church.

    Restoration efforts took place in 1694, 1706 and 1712, for starters.

    Extensions to the west happened in 1842. In 1844, the church was enlarged so the choir was as wide as the nave. Moreover, in 1864, the sacristy was added, and a flat ceiling covered over the old one, which would’ve looked like an overturned fishing boat. Other stave churches, like Borgund, still have this design. The church was painted white in 1872; the red paint was added later. This means that, unlike most other stave churches, this one is not tarred. I don’t know. I like my stave churches tarred.

    The last major renovation was between 1923 and 1924. Stone foundations placed under the church provide it with more stability. Additionally, the gallery and tower got new stairs.

    Judging from all these renovations, it seems that all that remains of the stave church is its staves.

    Odin, is that you? (Source)

    Interior Decoration

    Inside the church, you’ll find some incredible carvings from the 13th century. They are at the top of the staves and seem to represent kings. There’s a theory that one of them represents Odin, from Norse mythology, but that is not confirmed. The only other original piece inside the church is the baptismal font, made of soapstone from the 1100s. It has lovely decorations around it including trees, human figures and stars.

    There is a vestment from 1686 and a painting of Isaac’s Sacrifice from 1643 that are from the post-Reformation times.

    The altarpiece is famous for its folkloric tale. Four men from the parish went to Gudbrandsdal, the neighbouring valley, to buy or sell some cattle. They got caught in a major storm on the way back. They promised God that if they survived they would each give the value of a cow to Hegge Stave Church. The men survived and paid for the altarpiece. They pulled it to the church the following year on a sleigh. The altarpiece is from 1782 and has two pairs of candlesticks from around 1600 plus three ancient bibles from 1699, 1738 and 1764.

    You can find heaps of photos here.

    Around the Church

    The church has a carved gate from the Middle Ages, but the cemetery around the church is not that old. Hegge Stave Church is located some ways up the hill and stands by the farm Presthegge. You’ll see cows and tractors across the street!

    Hegge Stave Church Today

    The church is still the parish church in the local community. It’s possible to visit the church throughout the year for free, just check the website for the current opening hours.

    There is a large parking lot outside the church, and by the fence are some information boards in English and Norwegian.

    Hegge Stave Church is located just off the Fv51, a little north of the town Heggenes and 15 minutes south of Beitostølen, a winter sports resort and endpoint of the Valdresflye Scenic Road. Close by is the E16 between Bergen and Oslo. If you’re on the E16, you’ll see signs to Beitostølen from Ryfoss. Just follow those until the Fv51, and then turn right towards Heggenes instead of left to Beitostølen.

    Fagernes Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide
  • Stave Churches, Valdres

    Runic Stories at Høre Stave Church

    Runic Stories at Høre Stave Church

    Valdres is a common location in the old Norse sagas. After all, it is the valley you pass through on the ancient royal road from Oslo to Bergen. Naturally, there’s a little history here. And you can read it right on the walls of Høre Stave Church!

    Many stave churches have runic inscriptions, it’s true. Some are graffiti; medieval pranksters engraving their name into history. Yet, some have a story behind them and create more history for these stave churches. Høre Stave Church is one of the stave churches with an insight into the fascinating past of Norway. Especially around and shortly after the time of the Civil War in the 12th and early 13th century.

    In September 2020 I got to visit Høre Stave Church. While I was unable to go inside (the church was in service!) I got to see a lot and learn about this unique stave church. Here’s my guide to Høre Stave Church.

    In this article...

    Ryfoss Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Become Christian, or else!

    We know that the Christianisation of Valdres wasn’t easy. St. Olav, then King Olav, came from the west through the valley. He held farmers hostage and burnt down farms until they agreed to convert. According to the Sagas, Olav had churches built and clergymen appointed. None of these churches remains, but many of the stave churches are on the same spot, including Høre Stave Church.

    In medieval times, Valdres had many churches. There were at least 21 of them; 18 of which were stave churches. To compare, the neighbouring valley Hallingdal had 8 stave churches. Sadly very few remain today.

    Runes with a Story

    Inside the church is a runic inscription that dates Høre Stave Church back to around 1179. These aren’t graffiti runes, which are commonly found in churches, but rather have a story attached to them.

    The runes say:

    “That summer when the brothers Elling and Audun had trees felled for this church, Erling Jarl fell in Nidaros.”

    Erling Skakke is who they are referring to, and he is a famous name from the Norwegian Civil War. The inscription refers to the Battle of Kalvskinnet in 1179. According to the legend, King Sverre passed through Valdres in 1177. He was on the run from Magnus Erlingsson. At the time, there were two sides – the birkebeirne (a group of rebels from Western Norway) and the Baglers (Christians with ties to Danish royalty and located around Oslo). A man named Elling joined Sverre in his fight against Magnus and his father Earl Erling Skakke. When Erling fell in the battle, Elling and his brother decided to build a stave church. It’s assumed this was Høre Stave Church.

    The church and surrounding farms in the 1880s (Source)

    Ties to Norwegian Unity

    The farm next to Høre Stave Church is called Kvie, and this is an important farm in Valdres. The farm is in the old sagas. A woman called Gyda was from Kvie, and she was the daughter of the petty king Eirik of Hordaland. She is known for prompting Harald Hårfagre to unite Norway into one Kingdom. She made Harald promise not to cut or shave his hair until he had united the country. When he did finish uniting the country, he got a nice haircut and they got married.

    Early Use of Høre Stave Church

    Judging from both the rune inscriptions and dating the timber, Høre Stave Church is from around 1179. It was originally a pillar church, with four corner staves. Under the church are graves, some of them children. It wasn’t allowed but common to bury children under stave churches. As they had not been baptised yet, the parents worried the children would not be accepted into heaven. Some foetuses were also found under the church. There is evidence of ceremonial burials under the church, likely from pre-Christian times.

    Hundreds of coins were found during the renovation work. They date back to the time of King Magnus (1035-1047), King Valdemar (1154-1182), and King Sverre (1177-1202). It was common to bury coins under the church as a wish for good fortune, but also coins just fell out of people’s pockets!

    Rebuilding Høre Stave Church

    Looking at the photos, you can see Høre Stave Church doesn’t look much like a stave church today. Like almost every stave church remaining in Norway, it was rebuilt ‘recently’. After all, most of the stave churches were torn down in the 19th century to make way for more modern churches, so we should be grateful this church survived thanks to this massive restoration effort.

    The renovations include a new choir and nave, plus replacing most of the timber. The builders were inspired by nearby Hegge and Lomen Stave Churches, which are similar in appearance. In the late 19th century, the church received a new roof and tower.

    The original stave church somewhat exists today; all that remains is its skeleton. The skeleton is hidden by the cladding. The ship is still the original size, giving a sign of the original size of the church room.

    In 1979, renovations were complete. Today Høre Stave Church has a basilica shape, meaning the nave is higher than the aisle.

    Details inside the church (Source)

    Details Inside the Church

    The newer walls in the church are unpainted, the same as the ceiling and the benches. Beautiful original carvings are left exposed in the church.

    Rich decorations and carvings are on the chancel and pulpit. While they are from 1828, elements from the Middle Ages have been retained. The altarpiece is from 1800.

    There are two medieval portals still on displayed. However, it’s thought they were moved from their original spot in the church. Yet, they still have beautiful old elements. The carvings feature animal heads with vines growing out of their heads, and foliage and branches.

    Besides a thurible, there is no original medieval furniture in the church.

    Around the Church

    There is a rich wooden shed from the Middle Ages with dragon and lion carvings. On the portal is a wrought iron fitting with a brass base plate from the Middle Ages. The iron fitting is similar to ones found on stave churches in Valdres and Sogn.

    As is common with stave churches, there is a separate building for the bell tower. The bell had to be in a separate building as stave churches couldn’t support the weight.

    Høre Stave Church Today

    Høre Stave Church still serves the community as a regular parish church, and there are services here every Sunday. In the summer months, the church is open to the public.

    Up-to-date visitor info can be found here.

    Høre Stave Church is located on the hillside above Ryfoss, a small town on the European Highway 16 between Bergen and Oslo. It’s a short detour off the highway. There’s a large-ish parking lot opposite the church with information boards about Kongevegen (the old road between Bergen and Oslo) and the stave church. Info is in Norwegian and English.

    Høre Stave Church is very close to Lomen and Hegge stave churches, so consider adding them to your trip

    Ryfoss Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide
  • Stave Churches, Vang

    Recreating the Past at Øye Stave Church

    Recreating the Past at Øye Stave Church

    Øye Stave Church has the appearance of an old church. I could almost envision Vikings stepping out of the front door after their service. Øye Stave Church is one of the oldest churches in the country. We do know that stave churches did borrow architectural inspiration from old Viking structures, so it’s plausible. Located just outside the town of Vang and close to the E16 between Bergen and Oslo, Øye Stave Church is a worthy roadside stop for stretching your legs. Its history differs from the other stave churches, and it is a beautiful place to visit. Here’s some info about Øye Stave Church.

    In this article...

    Vang Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    The Church on the Swamp

    Øye Stave Church is one of the smallest and oldest stave churches in Norway. It is likely from some time during the second half of the 12th century. The church is first mentioned in written documents in 1347. It stood by the old traffic road over Filefjell, which was the first road between Bergen and Oslo.

    When the church was originally built, it stood by the lake and the river. This caused issues; the river flooded in the spring. Legend says that the reason the church had to eventually be moved was that it was so swampy that coffins floated up in the spring when there was flooding.

    In 1665, the church was described as being in a poor state of repair and either rotting away or the wind was ripping it apart. It was in bad shape. So, they had to move it.

    Goodbye, Øye Stave Church

    In 1747, Øye Stave Church was torn down. A new church was built further up the hill and closer to the town. Eventually, everyone forgot about Øye Stave Church. After all, Vang Stave Church was sold off to Prussia in 1842. Very few cared about stave churches during this time.

    Rebuilding the stave church (source)

    A Stave Church is Born

    When the new Øye Church was under renovations in 1935, the floor was being replaced. They discovered there were 156 pieces of the old stave church under the floor of the new church. Why they were there is unknown, but architects knew there was enough of the old stave church for it to be rebuilt. So, they did.

    The plot where the Øye Stave Church stands is not the original plot, but it is just as scenic. A reconstruction plan was finalised in 1950, and it took 15 years to rebuild the stave church. They, of course, took inspiration from other stave churches in the Valdres Valley. The pieces used in the stave church were a mix of the original 156 and replicas of pieces. Many parts of the original stave church were taken away to museums in Fagernes and Oslo for preservation. They even used some pieces left over from the restoration of Heddal Stave Church. The new Øye Stave Church was inaugurated in 1965.

    Inside the church (source)

    Architecture & Interior

    The stave church is a simple stave layout with a rectangular shape. There are two carved portals on the stave church, a classic feature, but these are replicas. The originals are in a museum.

    Inside the church, some historic artefacts are kept in the otherwise simple interior. The interior is bare woodwork and very little painting, unlike other stave churches. The floorboards are original, but most of the building material are copies. In the choir is a crucifix from the Middle Ages. The font used for baptising is from the Middle Ages and is carved from one tree. It came from St. Thomas’ Church at Filefjell when that church was torn down in 1808. More about that church on my page about Vang. Lastly, one of the pews may be from the Middle Ages.

    The Church Today & Øye Church

    Today Øye Stave Church is used for weddings and Midsummer mass only. All services take place in the new Øye Church from 1747. Looking at it, you can see the design is inspired by the stave church.

    Information board outside the church (my photo)

    Information board outside the church (my photo)

    Visiting the church

    At the time of writing, Øye Stave Church is not open to the public. Instead, the website says to contact their office. You can find the up-to-date information here.

    Other stave churches in Valdres Valley do open to museums. You can see them both on my page about the E16 and my page about Valdres.

    The church is still worth visiting to see the outside. There is a parking area right in front of the church, and out the front is a sign in English and Norwegian.

    Not a bad place to park 🙂 My photo

    Øye Stave Church is marked on Google Maps and it’s a short drive off the E16. Brown signs lead you to the church.

    There are no facilities here, but you are close to Vang, which has many more options.

    Vang Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide