The oldest of the Møre type: Rødven Stave Church
Everyone flocks to Åndalsnes to embark on an epic outdoors journey. Whether it be hiking one of the nearby mountains, heading out on the water, or even driving up the Trollstigen Scenic Road – Åndalsnes has it all. Still, for those who like history – like me! – you might want to take a short trip out of the town to visit the incredible Rødven Stave Church (Norwegian: Rødven stavkyrkje/stavkirke).
If you are driving down from Molde and/or the Atlantic Road towards Åndalsnes, the stave church is more or less on the way. Built in the characteristic Møre type with the somewhat funny supporting beams, Rødven Stave Church is old and important to the town. I got to visit the church in September 2020. While it wasn’t open, like everything that year, it was fun getting to walk around outside. Here’s some information about the history and importance of the church, plus what you can do if you visit.
In this article...
History of Rødven Stave Church
The Site & Early Church
The village of Rødven isn’t an important village, though it is very pretty! Yet, the fjord it sits on – the Romsdalsfjord – was well populated in the old times and a thriving agricultural region. The site of the church doesn’t make sense to those of us today who have to drive to it. The road is very long, narrow and windy from the highway – but back then the main method of transport was boats. Located on the hillside, the church is visible from almost anywhere on the fjord. So, the site is the best place to build a community church.
This is not the first church to stand on the site. In the 1960s, archaeological surveys discovered evidence of an earlier church. The predecessor to the stave church was the pillar church. This is where wooden beams go deep into the ground – and evidence of these pillars are on the site.
Rødven Stave Church's History
The age of Rødven Stave Church is unknown because the church has bits from different periods of history. Additionally, since this is such a rural church, very little is written on it throughout history. We do know that a heavy storm in 1689 took hold of the tower and blew it out to sea. This is around the time the church started to undergo a series of renovations. In 1712, the church was in poor condition and extensive work began to repair the church. Most of what we see today is from this renovation period. Again in the 19th century, the church was in poor condition. Authorities threatened to prosecute the owners of the church. Still, little work happened to the church.
In 1908, the Society for the Preservation of Ancient Norwegian Monuments took over the responsibility of the church. Today their Romsdal division maintains the church. It is the responsibility of the farmers in the village to keep an eye on the church. Rødven Stave Church remains one of their most important projects. It is the oldest and only pre-Reformation Møre type church remaining, and the church is suffering from leaks and wall damage. The other Møre church remaining, Kvernes Stave Church, was recently discovered as being much younger than thought. It’s believed to be from the 1600s.
Architecture & style
As mentioned above, the church is the Møre type (Møre is the name of the region we are in), which is a unique type in Norway. What characterises a Møre church is the external support beams holding the church up. It is pretty adorable to see a church like this held up by these massive beams, but they are essential to making sure the church doesn’t collapse. In other stave churches, these support beams are inside the church and are richly decorated. In Norwegian, these support beams are known as ‘skordene’.
Another unique feature of the Møre churches is their simple interior. Rødven today by no means has a simple interior, but compared to other churches, the interior design is much plainer. Additionally, there are less external decorations than other stave churches. The church looks more like the predecessor ‘pillar church’ than a stave church.
The church is made up of several pieces from different periods of history, making it tricky to characterise. Originally, it was a simple long church with a rectangular nave. The south portal is unique: it consists of twisted stalks ending in folded leaves. The south portal is likely from the first half of the 12th century and may have come from the earlier church.
Most of the architecture found in the church today is from the renovation period of the 17th and 18th centuries. The external gallery around the church was removed around 1600, about the same time the chancel was pulled down and replaced. Of the original church, it’s believed that the pillars and inner walls are original. The panelling, tiles and windows on the church are from the latter half of the 18th century.
Interior Decoration
The interior is a mish-mash of everything. The ceiling is very low, making it feel cosy or claustrophobic, and the walls are richly painted but faded. Most of the interior is from the 1712 renovation.
The oldest item inside the church is the life-size crucifix. It’s believed to be from between 1250 and 1275. It is one of Norway’s finest examples of early Gothic style. There is also a marble slag from the mid-1200s.
Otherwise, the pulpit and altar are from 1712. The benches are from different periods in history. Some of them have the Danish/Norwegian King Christian IV’s monogram (1641), while others have Christian V’s monogram (1673). Benches are from after the Reformation; Catholic churches in Norway didn’t have benches. You had to stand through the several-hour Latin service. That was one pro of the new Lutheran religion: you could sit and listen to a much shorter Danish service!
If you want to see some photos of the interior, there’s a huge collection of images here.
Exterior Decoration & Surrounds
Photos of the church from 15 years ago show bare wood and faded tar. However, when I visited in 2020 the church looks almost freshly tarred.
Archaeological excavations in the 1960s found marks under the earth. These show that pillars were buried in the ground. Traces of settlement and tombs from the Iron Age and Roman times near the church were found. Also, coins from the 12th century were discovered under the present church.
The portals are worth taking a look at as they depict different periods in history. On the north side, the portal is Romanesque and from the end of the 12th century. The south portal is unique to stave churches and has Gothic features from around the 13th century.
The cemetery around the church is in its original spot.
Rødven Stave Church isn’t an active church anymore; it has been this way since 1907. The new church, which is the bright red one across the street, is from 1907. It is the church the community uses today.
Rødven Stave Church Today
Rødven Stave Church is no longer an active church; it is a museum that is open in the summer months.
There is one worship service every year. It’s on Olsok, the eve of St. Olav’s Day. This day is a celebration in Norway and the Faroe Islands, plus some parts of Sweden. The day commemorates St. Olav, who died in battle in 1030. After he was buried where today’s Nidaros Cathedral is in Trondheim, he became a saint for his contributions to establishing Christianity in Norway. Until the Reformation in the 16th century, Olsok was a major church feast. The late 19th and early 20th century saw a renewed interest in Olsok. The Roman Catholic Church in Norway recognises it as a major feast in the country. Meanwhile, the Lutheran Church recognises it primarily in Nidaros Cathedral and some other churches. Ever since 1930, the 29th of July (when he died in battle), St. Olav’s Day has been a flag day.
Guided tours are available in the summer. The church is well signed from the main highway (Fv64) that links Kristiansund to Molde via the Atlantic Road and then onto Åndalsnes. Keep in mind the road between the highway and the church is very, very narrow and windy. Drive carefully.
Good to know
- Updated opening hours & admission fees can be found by clicking here.
- Norwegian name: Rødven Stavkyrkje or stavekirke (all the signs are in Norwegian)
- Parking: Free off-street parking, but small parking area
- Facilities: None
- Distance to Åndalsnes: 30 mins (32km / 20 miles)
- Distance to Molde (via ferry): 1 hour 18 mins (43km / 27 miles)
I hope you enjoyed this article and let me know in the comments if you have any questions. If you’ve been to the church, also let me know below!