Kirkenes

  • Kirkenes, Sami

    The Skolt Sami & Skoltebyen in Neiden

    The Skolt Sami & Skoltebyen in Neiden

    The Skolt Sami, also often called the Eastern Sami, are a minority group within the Sami community that follow the Eastern Orthodox religion. Their centre in Norway is located about 40 minutes from Kirkenes at a place called Neiden, and within the village is a cultural heritage site called Skoltebyen, or the Skolt Town. It is regarded as one of the best-preserved cultural heritage monuments in the whole of Northern Norway. 

    What makes it so special?

    So many things! The Skolt Sami themselves are a unique group with their own culture separate from other Sami groups, and the buildings that have been preserved as some of the oldest wooden buildings in Finnmark.

    As part of my trip across Eastern Finnmark in September 2023 I visited Skoltebyen to learn a little more about the Skolt Sami. Here’s my guide if you wish to visit the site too. 

    In this article...

    About the Skolt Sami

    Who are the Skolt Sami?

    The Skolt Sami are a distinct indigenous group with a rich cultural heritage, residing in the northernmost regions of Finland, Norway, and Russia. Despite their relatively small population, the Skolt Sami people have managed to preserve their unique traditions and way of life in the face of numerous challenges, making them an inspiring example of cultural resilience and adaptation. The Skolt Sami are unique from other Sami groups as they have been more closely inspired by Russian culture and traditions. They follow the Eastern Orthodox faith compared to other Sami groups who follow the Lutheran faith. 

    Historically, the Skolt Sami were semi-nomadic reindeer herders, but their traditional livelihoods have evolved over time. Today, many Skolt Sami people are involved in reindeer herding, fishing, hunting, and small-scale agriculture. These activities are deeply intertwined with their cultural identity, as the natural environment plays a central role in their traditions.

    Skolt Sami Drawing from 1871

    Forced Settlement and Assimilation

    The Skolt Sami have faced numerous challenges throughout their history, including forced assimilation, displacement, and suppression of their language and culture.

    The Skolt Sami used to move freely throughout Norway, Finland and Russia. They moved within a large geographical area – from the Varangerfjord to almost the tip of the Kola Peninsula. 

    In 1826 ,the Norway-Russia border was established by treaty and Sør-Varanger was the last land area to be incorporated into the kingdom of Norway. The border drawings led to a separation of the Skolt Sami families who lived here. It is believed that the Skolt Sami families who settled in Norway chose to do so because of the rich salmon fishing in the Neiden River. Most Skolt Sami settled in Russia, however. 

    The most significant disruption occurred during the Soviet era when they were forcibly relocated to different areas in Russia, away from their ancestral lands. The Skolt Sami in Russia do not get the same protections as the Skolt Sami in Norway, and a lot of their culture is considered endangered. 

    Skolt Sami Today

    Despite these challenges, the Skolt Sami have shown remarkable resilience. In recent years, there has been a revival of Skolt Sami cultural practices, including language revitalisation programs, cultural festivals, and educational initiatives. Efforts are underway to preserve their unique cultural heritage, and there has been a resurgence in Skolt Sami identity and pride.

    There are estimated to be around 1,000 Skolt Sami living in Norway, Finland and Russia. The number in Norway is very small. The Skolt Sami language is considered to be highly endangered and is not actively spoken in Neiden. 

    The Importance of Neiden

    Neiden had been known to the Skolt Sami long before the borders were laid out, which is evident by the fact that many of the buildings here are older than the land borders. There were seven Skolt Sami communities that travelled through Neiden throughout the seasons, and they spent some time at Neiden because of the rich salmon river. 

    Originally the settlement spread across the Norwegian and Finnish border, but in 1852 Neiden was split in two. The reason for the separation was the tready between the Kingdom of Sweden-Norway and the Grand Duchy o fFinland, which prohibited nomadic reindeer herding and fishermen moving over the border.

    The Skolt Sami who settled at Neiden considered the land to be common between all the families, as part of the culture prohibits land ownership. However, in 1903 the residents were visited by the sheriff who told them that the Skolt Sami settlement in Neiden had to be divided into five equal parts and that each family should own their part. The division was carried out and it destroyed the common principle that the Sami had held onto for hundreds of years. Fights broke out amongst the five families. From being almost dominant in their areas, they became poorer and poorer. Neiden is considered to be one of the poorest regions in Finnmark and the Skolt Sami have one of the lowest education levels in Finnmark. 

    Neiden Chapel

    A true testament to the forced assimilation of the Skolt Sami is Neiden Chapel. The chapel was built in 1902 and represents Norwegian sovereignty over the area. Many Norwegian farmers had requested a Lutheran church be built here, and the government wanted to secure the border from Finnish-Russian expansion, so it was an easy decision. 

    The church was deliberately designed to look like a Norwegian stave church as it is an expression of Norwegian culture and national cohesion on the border. At the time, there were “Norwegianisation” policies in place to try and force the Sami people to convert to a more Norwegian culture.

    Skoltebyen

    Now we get to Skoltebyen. The area where those five Skolt Sami families settled is now a protected cultural heritage site called Skoltebyen. It came under cultural protection in 2000. The site contains a self-guided walking trail with a number of different monuments, including a Russian Orthodox graveyard, the ruins of a smoke sauna, sixteen sites of traditional turf huts known as gammer and a tiny Russian Orthodox chapel called St. Georg’s Chapel. 

    All together, the site represents the permanent settlement that came after the borders were defined. Only one person lives here now, compared to the several families that used to be here. 

    The site has been protected because of its historic and religious important, and today it is the most important cultural heritage site for the Skolt Sami and their surviving culture in Norway. The goal is to communicate, maintain and develop the Skolt Sami culture. 

    When you arrive at the site, there is a large parking lot where you can park for free. You can also look at a map that shows you where all the sites are.

    Here are the highlights. 

    Skolt Sami Burial Ground

    The first point of interest is just after the car park. This is a historic burial ground for the Skolt Sami who settled here. In 1915 the Anatomical Institute did some excavations here and removed the remains of 94 people. They studied the skulls especially, trying to understand what makes the Sami people different. The oldest remains were from the 14th century. 

    Burial Mound

    Near the burial ground is the burial mound with a small house with an Orthodox cross on the roof. The mound has the excavated remains that were taken back in 1915. The remains were placed back here during a ceremonial and physical reburial in 2011, with an apology from the Norwegian authorities about what had been done. 

    St. Georg's Chapel

    The highlight of the site is St. Georg’s Chapel. It was built in 1565 and is only 10m2. It was not built for liturgical use, but was probably built as a prayer house and burial chapel. 

    The chapel is dedicated to St. Tryphon of Pechenga, an important Russian historic figure. He was a Russian monk in the Eastern Orthodox Church who is considered to be the “Enlightener of the Sami” as he worked a lot across the Kola Peninsula as well as the area in Norway and Russia. He built many churches in the area to convert the Sami, but today St. Georg’s Chapel is the only one still standing. 

    The interior of the chapel has 16 Russian panel icons, an altar and old Orthodox crosses that come from the cemetery. 

    Annual fairs at the chapel were discontinued in 1925 and after that the chapel was used as a storehouse and shed by the locals. During World War II, the Nazis used it as an ammunition storage building. 

    Skolt Sami Museum

    The Skolt Sami Museum is located in Neiden on the other side of town from Skoltebyen. The museum is a collection of artefacts from the Skolt Sami period. Much like Skoltebyen, the purpose of the museum is to strengthen the Skolt Sami culture, language and identity. 

    Conclusion & Further Reading

    Overall I really enjoyed visiting Neiden and Skoltebyen. While it is small and very basic, there’s no denying the significance of the site and importance to the Skolt Sami people. There is a certain sadness to visiting the site, especially considering everything that happened to the Skolt Sami 100 years ago. However, the fact that today it’s possible to visit the site and learn a little makes it special and meaningful. 

    While researching this article I came across a number of excellent articles about the Skolt Sami and Neiden. 

    Here’s one from Riksantikvaren: https://www.riksantikvaren.no/kulturhistorie/skoltebyen-i-neiden-bare-i-finnmark/

    And here’s a blog post from someone who visited the site: https://norge.sandalsand.net/skoltebyen-og-st-georgs-kapell-i-neiden/

    Have you been to Skoltebyen? Please mention if you have in the comments section below. Feel free to ask any questions too. 

  • Kirkenes

    The King Oscar II Chapel in Grense Jakobselv

    The King Oscar II Chapel in Grense Jakobselv

    The King Oscar II Chapel (Kong Oscar II Kapell) has been a bucket list item for me for a while. Whenever I visit Kirkenes, I can’t help but scroll across Google Maps to this remote little chapel on the Russian border. When I did my Eastern Finnmark road-trip in 2023, I decided that was the time to make the extra trip over to the chapel. I didn’t expect that the drive would be one hour one way, or that the road would be less-than-desirable, but it was definitely worth it!

    Yes, it may seem a little strange to aim to head to this chapel, but maybe this is as close as I’ll get to Russia for a while.

    What makes this chapel so special? So many things!

    The Kong Oscar II Chapel is a unique historic site just 500 metres (1,600ft) from the Russian border. The border was laid out in 1826 and follows the deepest part of the Jakobselva River. As you drive to the chapel you’ll see Russia and the border markers: the Norwegian border posts are yellow and black, while the Russian border posts are red and green. There’s also a fence on the Norwegian side: it was erected to prevent reindeer and cattle straying across the border.

    The chapel’s location is strategic: it is a patriotic symbol that represents Norwegian religion, culture, and the border between West and East Europe. 

    Here’s my short overview of the King Oscar II Chapel. 

    In this article...

    Kirkenes Travel Guide

    You can find more information about visiting the city of Kirkenes on our dedicated travel guide page. 

    Kirkenes Travel Guide

    Historic Overview of Grense Jakobselv

    The settlement of Grense Jakobselv

    The area was originally inhabited by the Eastern Sami (Skolt Sami) and they have lived there for hundreds, if not thousands, of years. When the national border was drawn up in 1826, the Skolt Sami were forced to choose which side of the border they wanted to live on.

    The first Norwegian person settled in the area in 1851, and more people soon followed. The village of Grense Jakobselv was established, and at its peak the population was 100 with a school, shop, customs office, post office, and church. The road to the village was completed more than 100 years later, in 1965. 

    Why was the chapel built here?

    The short answer is politics. Despite the border being laid out in 1826, there were still disagreements between the Norwegian authorities and the Russian fishermen on the national border. After several confrontations, the County Governor of Finnmark wanted to sent a naval ship to monitor the fishermen on the border. Before that could happen, the Interior Ministry sent Lieutenant Commander Georg Heyerdahl to the north to become familiar with the case. Heyerdahl did not agree with the County Governor and instead proposed they build a chapel. A Lutheran chapel would be an indisputable boundary marking. After all, on the Russian side in Boris Gleb there is a Russian Orthodox Chapel that was used as a border demarcation in 1826. 

    The parallels with the chapel in Boris Gleb are striking, and it was believed that no one would dispute the land if a Lutheran chapel was built there. So they built it, and it worked!

    In the summer of 1869 the chapel was built. It was consecrated as “a spiritual watchtower against the eastern colossus’ various faiths”. It was built in the long church style with Neo-Gothic architecture representing Western European ideals. 

    Kong Oscar II visits the chapel

    In 1873, the Swedish-Norwegian King Oscar II visited the chapel. To commemorate the visit, he bestowed the chapel with a marble slab with the inscription “King Oscar II heard the words of God here on the 4th of July 1873” in Norwegian and Northern Sami.

    World War II

    This was the first place where the Norwegians saw the Soviet liberators in October 1944. The chapel survived the war (it is built in stone, after all) but all of the church silver was stolen during the liberation of Eastenr Finnmark. 

    Later Use

    Due to its location, the chapel has been an important landmark for sailors since the beginning. In order to make it more visible from the sea, the chapel was whitewashed in 1883. The whitewash was removed in 1969.

    King Olav V visited the chapel in 1959 and 1969 and a name plate was erected for this. 

    Practical Information

    How to get here (and what to see along the way)

    The King Oscar II Chapel is only accessible by car from Kirkenes. The drive is approximately 1 hour long (60km) and the last part of the road is a dirt track. The road is open in summer but closes in winter. Individual excursions can be arranged from Kirkenes.

    The road is very remote, and you will lose phone reception for parts of the drive. The scenery is very unique, though. Along the way, you pass the site of what is believed to be the oldest rock in Norway.

    The last 10 minutes or so is where you start seeing all the signs warning you of getting too close to the Russian border, as well as the military presence in the area. It is possible to see the Russian border markers across the river and get a quick photo, but there is no designated parking spot.

    In the picture above, I pulled over very quickly. You’ll see I’m basically leaning out the car door. I was parked on the road. Across the river is the red and green border marker, which is Russia. 

    As you get closer to the chapel, you will pass two historic wooden buildings. One of the buildings is called Preststua, the Priest Cottage, and was built for the travelling clergymen. During World War II, the building was used by Norwegian, German, and Russian soldiers.

    It is possible to see old houses half buried in the sand by the river; these were shacks of fishermen who lived here during the fishing season. The stone blocks by the riverbank are remnants of German fortifications.

    Parking

    There is a free parking lot across the street from the chapel. 

    Going inside the chapel

    The chapel is open for a short period over the summer months from approximately 11am until 2pm. 

    A little further away...

    If you follow the road a little further, to it’s very end, you get a great view out to the Barents Sea. There’s a camping area here and information signs about the border region. It’s called ‘Kaia’ (the pier). 

    Links & Resources

    Visit the Varanger tourism website for information on how to organise a guided visit to King Oscar II Chapel: https://www.visitgreaterarctic.com/

    Kirkenes Travel Guide

    You can find more information about visiting the city of Kirkenes on our dedicated travel guide page. 

    Kirkenes Travel Guide
  • European Highways, Kirkenes, Road-trips, Vadsø, Varangerbotn, Vardø

    Drive it Yourself: Kirkenes to Vardø via the E6 and E75

    Drive it Yourself: Kirkenes to Vardø on the E6 and E75

    Here’s my guide to the drive from Kirkenes to Vardø on the E75. Looking for a drive that will take you through the rugged Eastern Finnmark? To be honest, when I did this drive I had it planned as more of a “A to B” type of drive. I wasn’t expecting the scenery to be so incredible! The drive on the E6 from Kirkenes to Varangerbotn is so rocky and wild, while the E75 becomes flat and barren. This drive is incredible.

    Part of this drive does make up the Varanger Tourist Road, but I have decided to write that as a separate article. For this article, I wanted to focus on this drive as though it were just a regular highway. Enjoy!

    In this article...

    Download this Guide

    All of our guides can be downloaded via our online store. 

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

    Coming soon.

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    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Information about facilities along the way

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the region & towns
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Facilities including supermarkets, toilets, petrol, hotels, cafes, restaurants with addresses.

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

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    Kirkenes to Vardø via the E6 and E75

    Kirkenes

    This drive begins in Kirkenes, which is one of the easternmost cities in Norway. It has a fascinating war and cultural history and is worth spending some time in.

    Kirkenes Travel Guide

    Russian border

    Border crossing/detour

    It is possible to drive to the Russian border, but you cannot cross the border into Russia. You will see signs pointing to Murmansk, which is approximately 255km (158 miles), or a 3 hour drive, away. On the border is a souvenir shop, restrooms, and signs pointing to Russia that you can take photos of. 

    Bjørnevatn

    Town

    The community of Bjørnevatn, also known as ‘the mining town’, has been of strategic importance for the development of Kirkenes. The mine is Europe’s largest open-cast mine and opened in 1906. It has since closed down. The mine did reopen in 2009, but shut again in 2015 due to lower costs from other countries. Today around 2,500 people live in Bjørnevatn.

    Garrison Sør-Varanger

    Military Barracks

    The garrison in Sør-Varanger is a military unit based at Høybuktmoen. The departments main task is to patrol and monitor the Norwegian-Russian border. The garrison consists mainly of conscripted soldiers, and there are 400 new conscripts every six months. They mostly tell tourists when they are wandering into Russia, but another goal is to monitor Russian activity on the border.

    Kirkenes Airport

    Airport

    Kirkenes was originally built as a military air station by the Luftwaffe during World War II. The airport reopened for civilians in 1963 with a new terminal and extended runway.

    The airport has direct flights to Oslo and Tromsø through SAS and Norwegian, as well as Widerøe flights to Vadsø and other small coastal communities. 

    Neiden

    Village

    Neiden is regarded as the centre of Eastern Sami culture in Norway and a large proportion of the population are of Finnish descent.

     A large part of the population are Skolt Sami, which is the Orthodox Sami. In town is the Skolt Sami Museum from 2017, which is trying to preserve and present Skolt Sami culture. They also have an outdoor museum with preserved buildings from an old Skolt Sami settlement. It includes St. Georges Chapel, a Russian Orthodox chapel that was built in 1565.

    The Skolt Sami are a unique Sami group. They are more closely related to the Russians compared to the Finns or Norwegians and are regarded as a minority group amongst the Sami. They have been more severely impacted by land borders and country regulations than other Sami groups and are marked by high unemployment and low literacy rates. The Skolt Sami language is considered highly endangered and was only written down in 1992.

    There is a settlement called Neiden on the Norwegian and the Finnish side. The area used to be one settlement for the Skolt Sami, but when the borders were laid out in the 1850s they were separated. When the area was divided up, Neiden was forced to split across the countries.

    Neiden also has Neiden Chapel – built in 1902 as a Norwegian ‘dragestil’ (dragon style) church to symbolise the Norwegian state sovereignty in the area. It is a Lutheran church and is well worth seeing. The Norwegian government invited Norwegian settlers to the area, building the Lutheran church to counterbalance the Orthodox chapel.

    Skolt Sami Museum

    Museum

    The Skolt Sami museum is a cultural history museum dedicated to the Eastern Sami, or the Skolt Sami.

    Visit their website here: https://dvmv.no/en/vv-skoltesamisk-muse/avv-skoltesami-museum/

    Bugøyfjord
    Village

    Bugøyfjord is a small village along the Varangerfjord. It was a predominantly Sami community until the Kven people arrived in the 1860s. It was one of the first villages to be burned to the ground by Germans during the retreat in 1944.

    In the village is a memorial marker for John Savio. He is the first Sami person to have his own exhibition in the National Gallery in Oslo. He didn’t achieve fame during his life, but since his death has been recognised as one of the greatest Sami artists. He is also the only Sami artist to make a name for himself before World War II. He worked primarily in wood cuts.

    Nesseby Municipality

    Nesseby is a small municipality located at the isthmus between the Varangerfjord and the Tana River at the entrance to the Varanger peninsula. The population lives in small settlements along the fjord and the Varangerhalvøya National Park is partly located in the park. The municipality is known for its interesting birdlife and also its tundra with areas of bog and marsh.

    Today the municipality is known as Unjárga-Nesseby, reflecting the Sami community who live here. Nesseby was the second municipality in Norway to get a Sami name. Most of the inhabitants are Sami and Sami is being taught as the first language in schools. In historic times, reindeer used to cross this area as part of their annual migration.

    This led the Sami to coming into the area. The area between Skippagurra and Varangerbotn is full of archaeological finds from different periods.

    The coat-of-arms represents a cloudberry plant.

    The municipality is the birthplace of Isak Saba, the first Sami to be elected to the Norwegian parliament.

    Bugøynes

    Village/Detour

    Bugøynes was established by Finnish immigrants in the 19th century. They had left their own country due to political unrest and poor living conditions, and came to Norway with their experience in agriculture. They also quickly learned the knowledge of fjord fishing. The Finns also brought their religious traditions with them – a conservative Christian movement known as Læstadianism. It still holds a firm footing in the village.

    The village was saved from the destruction of World War II, so the Finnish architecture has been preserved. The Finnish influence is still strong here, and most of the people living here are of Finnish descent and have Finnish names.

    Bugøynes is around a 15-20 minute detour off the E6, but is well worth it. 

    Varangerbotn

    Village

    Varangerbotn is a small village that is the administrative centre of Nesseby. The population is around 341. In Varanger you can visit the Varanger Sami Museum, a museum for the history and culture of the Sami in Varangerbotn. The museum presents the Sea Sami history, Sami prehistory, and contemporary Sami culture.

    E6 & E75 junction

    Roundabout

    This is where the E6 and the E75 separate. The E75 continues onto the Varanger peninsula towards Vardø, while the E6 goes towards Tana Bru and Lakselv. The roundabout in town marks the beginning the National Tourist Road for Varanger, one of Norway’s 18 national tourist roads. I cover the tourist road in a separate article.

    Vadsø Municipality

    Vadsø municipality is named after the town of Vadsø that we will soon be driving through. The coat-of-arms shows a reindeer as reindeer husbandry is common for the municipality and of great economic importance, especially for the Sami people.

    The municipality spreads across the southern coast of the Varanger peninsula. There are trees here as this part of the peninsula is sheltered from the sea, but the tree line is at around 200 metres above sea level.

    Vestre Jakobselv

    Village

    Vestre Jakobselv is a small village with around 500 people living here. It has a primary and secondary school. The village is popular for its salmon fishing as the Jakobselva river has its outlet here.

    Vadsø

    The only major town we drive through is Vadsø. There is a lot worth seeing here, so browse our separate travel guide page below. 

    Vadsø Travel Guide

    Ekkerøy

    Village

    There has been settlement on Ekkerøy since at least the Middle Ages, and finds from the Viking Age have been found there. However, it is not known if Vikings settled there or if they traded there.

    Ekkerøy was an island until 1750, but now there is a land connection to the mainland. Ekkerøy was built up as a fishing village and at its peak had several landing piers, shops, a school, shrimp factory, fish oil processing plant, and dried fish racks. There were 270 people living there; today there are less than 50.

    Parts of Ekkerøy have been declared a nature reserve and the island also has a small bird cliff. In the breeding season, which is from May to September, the cliffs may be home to as many as 20,000 kittiwake pairs.

    The settlement of Ekkerøy was not destroyed during World War II. The well-preserved fish factory is now a museum with warehouses, a cod liver oil steamer, an old shop and an authentically furnished traders residence.

    Skallelv

    Village

    Skallelv was originally one of the several purely Finnish communities in the area, populated at the end of the 19th century. The local people were known as Kvens, the North-Norwegian name for people of Norwegian-Finnish descent. Skallelv is one of the few remaining areas with buildings that were constructed before World War II. The oldest wooden houses here are from before 1860.

    Vardø Municipality

    Vardø municipality is one of the first municipalities to be established in Northern Norway. The coat-of-arms is from 1898 and represents the sunshine, fishing boats, the ocean, and a large cod. In the chief is the year of the towns founding, 1789, along with the words “Vardöensis Insignia Urbis” which means “the seal of the town of Vardø”. In the lower part of the arms is the town motto “Cedant Tenebræ Soli”, meaning “Darkness shall give way to the sun”.

    Several Stone Age sites as well as sites dating from the Sami Iron Age have been found here. Vardø became a Norwegian settlement in the medieval period, and the first church was built here in 1307.

    Fishing and seafood processing are Vardø’s major sources of income. The municipality also has large seabird colonies on the islands of Hornøya and Reinøya.

    Komagvær

    Village

    Komagvær is one of the main gateways to the Varanger National Park, with a gravel road leaving from the town into the park. In the valley are many types of birds, including the Arctic Skua.

    Kiberg

    Village

    Kiberg was one of the largest fishing communities in the area during the 16th and 17th centuries, and was important during the Pomor Trade era. Kiberg is still important for fishing.

    Kiberg was of strategic importance during World War II. The geographical proximity to the Soviet Union brought Russian and Norwegian people together. After the occupation of Norway, many locals went to the Soviet Union. Some returned and worked for the Soviet military intelligence services, with as many as 45 partisans in Kiberg.

    Their most important task was to pass on radio communications about the German shipping fleet. It has been estimated that around 80 German merchant ships were sunk on their way to Kirkenes due to the partisans passing on information. Around half the partisans were killed or executed during the war.

    Vardø Tunnel

    Tunnel

    The Vardø Tunnel is a subsea road tunnel stretching 2.8km (9,400 ft) under the Bussesundet strait that connects the island of Vardøya to the mainland. The tunnel reaches a depth of 88m (289ft) and was opened in 1983.

    Vardø

    This drive finishes in Vardø, Norway’s easternmost city. Vardø is an important historic city and a fantastic place to base yourself while in Eastern Finnmark. 

    Vardø Travel Guide

    Next Drive

    Varanger Tourist Road

    Follow the Varanger Tourist Road from Hamningberg to Varangerbotn via Vardø and Vadsø. 

    Varanger Tourist Road
  • European Highways, Karasjok, Kirkenes, Lakselv, Road-trips, Varanger

    Drive it Yourself: Lakselv to Kirkenes on the E6

    Drive it Yourself: Lakselv to Kirkenes on the E6

    The E6 is the main highway that runs through Norway. The last stretch of it is between Lakselv and Kirkenes. Here, the landscape is unlike anything else in Norway: rocky, barren coastlines separating stretches of tundra. The Sami people have called this area home for thousands of years, while Norwegians and Kvens settled from the 19th century onwards.

    The highway follows the Finnish border for a large portion, and it’s even possible to take small detours into Finland. It’s actually quicker to get between the two towns by going through Finland, but for our purposes we will take the scenic route on the E6. 

    In this article...

    Downloadable Version of This Guide

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

    View at the Store

    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Information about facilities along the way

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the region & towns
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Facilities including supermarkets, toilets, petrol, hotels, cafes, restaurants with addresses.
    Visit Our YouTube Channel
    Visit Our YouTube Channel

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    The drive: Lakselv to Kirkenes on the E6

    Lakselv

    This drive begins in Lakselv, the largest settlement in Porsanger Municipality, with a population of around 2,200. The village is located at the end of the Porsangerfjord and the E6 passes through the village.

    Lakselv Travel Guide

    Porsangmoen

    Porsangmoen is one of the major military camps in Northern Norway.

    The District Command for Finnmark was established at Skoganvarre (you’ll pass through it later) from the beginning of April 1945, however Skoganvarre turned out to not be suitable for a larger military camp. It was decided to move the camp to the area it is in now. Before 1945, there was very little military presence in the area.

    Porsangmoen has one of Norway’s largest shooting ranges at 207km2. It is used by all defence branches of the Norwegian military as well as for foreign departments who come to train on how to solve missions and survive in an Arctic winter environment.

    Porsangermoen is currently undergoing a major renovation including new barracks, a new sewerage treatment plant, new internal roads, and apartments for officers.

    In Norway, military service is compulsory for both men and women. They typically start at the age of 19 and do service for 12 months.

    Skoganvarre

    Skoganvarre is a small settlement (population: 54) located roughly halfway between Lakselv and Karasjok.The name is a Norwegianisation of the Northern Sami Shuvvanvarri (Whispering Mountain).

    The area has long been an important communication hub in Finnmark as a crossing point between Lakselv-Karasjok and Alta-Tana.

    In 1853, the state built a mountain lodge and then in 1870 a telegraph station. In 1924, the road connection was built.

    Karasjok

    Karasjok is the second-largest municipality in Norway in terms of size, with an area of 5,464km2. However, it has one of the lowest populations of any municipality, with the only settlement being Karasjok. The population density is 0.5 inhabitants per square kilometre (1.3/sq mi). Most of Karasjok’s population are Sami: approximately 80% of the population speak a Sami language as their first language.

    The important industries in Karasjok are reindeer husbandry and agriculture, as well as outdoor industries such as hunting and fishing.

    The coat-of-arms represent the meeting of three tribes: the Sami, Finns, and Norwegians. The symbol of fire was chosen because of its importance to the Sami people. The fire brings heat and therefore survival in the winter, but it is also a major threat, both in the tents and the large pine forests.

    Karasjok has the lowest measured temperature in Norway, -51.4C, measured in 1886. The highest temperature measured in Karasjok is 32.4C.

    Karasjok

    Karasjok is regarded as one of the main centres of Sami culture in Norway, and is an interesting little town for spending some time in. 

    Karasjok Travel Guide

    Karasjok River

    Now you will follow the Karasjohka river along the Norwegian/Finnish border. The river is 161km (100 mi) long and runs through the area of Finnmark. It is one of the most important rivers that drains the Finnmarksvidda plateau and it flows into the famous salmon fishing Tana River.

    Váljohka

    Váljohka is a small village located where the Váljohka and Karasjohka rivers meet. The village has a small church, Valjok Church, that was built in 1932. The church seats about 60 people and is known for its bright red and blue colours inside. They took inspiration from the traditional colours of the gakti (the Sami costume). The church is not visible from the E6, but it is.a short detour off the highway. It is marked on the highway as “Váljohka kpl”

    Deanu-Tana Municipality

    Deanu (Northern Sami) or Tana (Norwegian) is the next municipality you will pass through. The Sami word can be translated as ‘great river’, referring to the Tana River. The population of the municipality is around 2,800, with the population currently declining.  

    The coat-of-arms represents riverboats that have been used in the area for centuries. The three boats symbolise the three ethnic groups here: Sami, Kven and Norwegian, and the colours mimic the red and yellow of the Norwegian coat-of-arms.

    A large number of people work in retail or hospitality (29%), while 23% of the population work in healthcare and the social sector. The most important economic resources are the farmland or forest area. The world’s northernmost dairy is Tine in Tana Bru, and it employs around 30 people.

    The municipality is located along the lower river basin of the Tana River. Most of the inhabitants are Sami people. The river has represented a mainstay of the local economy. It is one of Europe’s main salmon rivers, though no large-scale commercial fishing is done. Because of the river, the municipality has one of the most spectacular gatherings in Norway. As many as 25,000 goo-sanders can accumulate along the waterway system. There are also thousands of common eider and long-tailed duck who come to the river. Bears are rarely spotted in the municipality.

    Tana Bru

    This is the main village in Deanu-Tana. Tana Bru means ‘Tana Bridge’ in English and is named after the bridge that crosses the river to the village of Skiippagurra on the other side of the river.

    Skiippagurra

    On the other side of the bridge is a small village called Skiippagurra. It has a population of around 254 residents and is a historic trading place. This is where the E6 stops following the Tana River and continues across to Kirkenes.

    Nesseby Municipality

    Nesseby is a small municipality located at the isthmus between the Varangerfjord and the Tana River at the entrance to the Varanger pensinula. The population lives in small settlements along the fjord and the Varangerhalvøya National Park is partly located in the park. The municipality is known for its interesting birdlife and also its tundra with areas of bog and marsh.

    Today the municipality is known as Unjárga-Nesseby, reflecting the Sami community who live here. Nesseby was the second municipality in Norway to get a Sami name. Most of the inhabitants are Sami and Sami is being taught as the first language in schools. In historic times, reindeer used to cross this area as part of their annual migration. This led the Sami to coming into the area. The area between Skippagurra and Varangerbotn is full of archaeological finds from different periods.

    The coat-of-arms represents a cloudberry plant.

    The municipality is the birthplace of Isak Saba, the first Sami to be elected to the Norwegian parliament.

    Varangerbotn

    Varangerbotn is a small village that is the administrative centre of Nesseby. The population is around 341.

    In Varanger you can visit the Varanger Sami Museum, a museum for the history and culture of the Sami in Varangerbotn. The museum presents the Sea Sami history, Sami prehistory, and contemporary Sami culture.

    This is where the E6 and the E75 separate. The E75 continues onto the Varanger peninsula towards Vardø, while the E6 goes to Kirkenes. The roundabout in town marks the beginning the National Tourist Road for Varanger, one of Norway’s 18 national tourist roads. If you want to do the tourist road, it is the E75 towards Vardø.

    Varangerfjord

    For the rest of the drive, you will be driving alongside the Varangerfjord. This is Norway’s easternmost fjord, and it stretches approximately 100km (62 mi), emptying into the Barents Sea. It does not have the hallmarks of a fjord carved by glaciers, so is not technically a fjord. Still, it looks pretty fjord-like!

    The mouth is about 70km (43 mi) wide, located between the town of Vardø in the northwest and the village of Grense Jakobselv in the southeast.

    Around the fjord is many Kven (Finnish immigrants) and Sami.

    Nyelv

    Nyelv is a small community with a population of 30. There are two burial mounds from the Neolithic Age located near Nyelv.

    Sør-Varanger Municipality

    Sør-Varanger is the easternmost municipality in Norway. It is located alongside the borders of both Finland and Russia. Most of the inhabitants live in Kirkenes. Until 1826, the area was jointly taxed by Norway and Russia.

    Bugøyfjord

    Bugøyfjord is a small village along the Varangerfjord. It was a predominantly Sami community until the Kven people arrived in the 1860s. It was one of the first villages to be burned to the ground by Germans during the retreat in 2004.

    In the village is a memorial marker for John Savio, a famous artist from the area. He was born in 1902 in Bugøyfjord and was the first Sami person to have his own exhibition at the National Gallery. He mainly worked with woodcuts. He never had a major artistic breakthrough during his life, but after his death has been recognized as one of the grewatest Sami artists. He is also the only Sami artist to make a name for himself before World War II. He passed away in 1938.

    There is a small museum for him in Kirkenes. The John Savio Prize is awarded every two years to an artist with a Sami background who has distinguished themselves in the art field in Norway.

    Neiden

    Neiden is a small village with a population of around 250. The village is located by the Neiden River, which is famous for its salmon fishing. A large part of the population are Skolt Sami, which is the Orthodox Sami. In town is the Skolt Sami Museum from 2017, which is trying to preserve and present Skolt Sami culture. They also have an outdoor museum with preserved buildings from an old Skolt Sami settlement. It includes St. Georges Chapel, a Russian Orthodox chapel that was built in 1565.

    The Skolt Sami are a unique Sami group. They are more closely related to the Russians compared to the Finns or Norwegians and are regarded as a minority group amongst the Sami. They have been more severely impacted by land borders and country regulations than other Sami groups and are marked by high unemployment and low literacy rates. The Skolt Sami language is considered highly endangered and was only written down in 1992.

    There is a settlement called Neiden on the Norwegian and the Finnish side. The area used to be one settlement for the Skolt Sami, but when the borders were laid out in the 1850s they were separated. When the area was divided up, Neiden was forced to split across the countries.

    Neiden also has Neiden Chapel – built in 1902 as a Norwegian ‘dragestil’ (dragon style) church to symbolise the Norwegian state sovereignty in the area. It is a Lutheran church and is well worth seeing. The Norwegian government invited Norwegian settlers to the area, building the Lutheran church to counterbalance the Orthodox chapel.

    Since 1906, Norwegians have come in large numbers because of all the mining in the area.

    Garrison Sør-Varanger

    The garrison in Sør-Varanger is a military unit based at Høybuktmoen. The departments main task is to patrol and monitor the Norwegian-Russian border. The garrison consists mainly of conscripted soldiers, and there are 400 new conscripts every six months. They mostly tell tourists when they are wandering into Russia, but another goal is to monitor Russian activity on the border.

    Kirkenes

    The end point for the road is at Kirkenes, the easternmost town in Norway. 

    Kirkenes Travel Guide
  • Hurtigruten, Kirkenes, Museums, World War II

    Andersgrotta, the Bomb Shelter Beneath Kirkenes

    Andersgrotta, the Bomb Shelter Beneath Kirkenes

    Kirkenes, a small town located about 10km (6 mi) from the Russian border, is a fascinating place to visit. It is the turning point of Norway’s Coastal Ferry (Hurtigruten & Havila), so it is easily accessible for visitors to Norway. The town itself is very sleepy today, so it’s hard to imagine that during World War II it was one of the most important places for the Nazis in their fight against the Soviets. In fact, Kirkenes is the most bombed place in Europe after Malta.

    There are two attractions in town that cover World War II history. The first is the Grenseland Museum, located a little ways out of town and covering more the history of border relations between Norway, Finland and Russia, and the second is the Andersgrotta bunker, a complex system of tunnels beneath the town itself. Andersgrotta is offered as an excursion on the Coastal Ferry but it is also possible to visit it yourself while visiting the town.

    Here’s an overview of why Andersgrotta is significant as well as what you can see on your visit.

    In this article...

    Kirkenes Travel Guide

    Be sure to check out our Kirkenes travel guide! Here you can find all our recommendations of things to do and see, including our self-guided road-trips. 

    Kirkenes During World War II

    After Norway was occupied by Nazis, Kirkenes became a strategic town due to its proximity to the Soviet Union. Its importance increased when Operation Barbarossa put Kirkenes right on the front lines. Additionally, Murmansk is an ice-free harbour and one of the only ones with access to the ocean, and the Allies were sending ships there to keep the Russians well-stocked to push the Nazis out of St. Petersburg and Russia. The Nazis used Kirkenes as a base to bomb these ships but also try and invade the Soviet Union. Because of these attacks, Kirkenes was bombed more than 300 times, while air raid alarms were held more than 1000 times.

    History of Kirkenes

    Andersgrotta Bunker

    This is the largest bomb shelter in Kirkenes. It was built in 1941 to protect the civilians of Kirkenes from the repeated bombings of the war. Because of the air quality, people couldn’t stay all night but would come down every time there was an alarm. Babies were born here, livestock was kept here, and people just did everything they could to survive. In total, the shelter had enough room for 2500 people. Somehow they survived down there – though it still remains a bit of a mystery.

    After the war, Kirkenes was left in ruins. These bunkers became places where people could live while waiting for their home to be built. This took a while as there aren’t many trees in Northern Norway, so much of the timber had to be imported from the south. Many of the civilians also used the caves out at the mines, approximately 10km from town. Andersgrotta was never used for mining; it is purposely built as a bomb shelter.

    Visiting Andersgrotta

    To get inside, you go down a staircase under the Norwegian flag. It is very cold inside – around 0C – and the air feels musty and damp. You hear dripping water everywhere. There is electrical lighting in there today, but during the war there was no electricity, plumbing, or ventilation systems. During the Cold War all of these were added in. You see one of the air vents when you go to the Russian monument.

    Andersgrotta

    First your guide will show you a selection of images of Kirkenes from before and after the war, explaining the destruction that took place here.

    Next you will sit down and watch a 10 minute documentary that explains what happens in Kirkenes during the war. It includes fictional footage (acting of life in Kirkenes) but also documentary footage of the Nazis, the bombing, and the Soviet Union liberating Kirkenes.

    After the movie you have a chance to walk around. The complex consists of several corridors which lead to a number of exits.

    Outside Attractions

    Andersgrotta

    Guided tours include a visit to the Russian monument that sits on top of Andersgrotta. It may seem a bit surreal to have a monument to a Russian soldier in Kirkenes, but the town was liberated by the Soviets and has maintained a close, positive relationship with the Russians ever since.

    The monument is from 1951 and shows a Red Army soldier standing on a plinth. Originally the soldier was trampling a German eagle under his foot, as a symbol of the Soviet Union’s victory over Nazi Germany, but the political climate changed and the eagle was replaced with a rock shortly before the statue was unveiled.

    Book Your Tour of Andersgrotta

    Andersgrotta is managed by Snowhotel Kirkenes. Andersgrotta is open to the public daily at 12:30pm – you can buy tickets at the entrance or on the Snowhotel website. Otherwise, other times are only available via private tour. These are booked through Snowhotel Kirkenes: https://www.snowhotelkirkenes.com/andersgrotta

    Here is the Hurtigruten excursion to Andersgrotta: https://www.hurtigruten.com.au/excursions/norway/7a-the-norwegian-border/

    Here is the Havila excursion to Andersgrotta: https://www.havilavoyages.com/excursions/the-russian-border

    It is easy to walk here. The entrance is approximately 250 metres from the town centre, though it is not marked with signs.

    Kirkenes Travel Guide

    Be sure to check out our Kirkenes travel guide! Here you can find all our recommendations of things to do and see, including our self-guided road-trips. 

  • History, Kirkenes, World War II

    The History of Kirkenes

    I love Kirkenes. Honestly, it’s one of those places I didn’t think much of until I got there. What makes it so special is the blend of so many cultures, religions and customs that come together to make one special town. Walking through the town, you’ll hear Norwegian, Finnish, Russian and Sami. This didn’t happen overnight; Kirkenes’ multiculturalism is from hundreds of years of history. I’ve put together my overview of the history of Kirkenes, focusing on the important events that made the town what it is today.

    Kirkenes Travel Guide

    The Sami Settlement Between Two Countries

    The history of Kirkenes begins with its Sami settlement. The Skolt Sami, or Eastern Sami, have been using the land around Kirkenes for hundreds of years. They would come here with their reindeer flocks to graze along the Varangerfjord. In the winter, they would go to Northern Finland.

    Kirkenes and surroundings was a shared Norwegian-Russian district with no strict borders. The present-day border is from 1826, and it took only a few years before the first settlers came to the area. 

    Border Establishment

    When the borders came into place, the region was heavily affected. For example, Neiden, 45km west of Kirkenes, was cut in half. The area is the centre of the Skolt Sami culture in Norway, which is the eastern Orthodox Sami. Many of the residents lived part of the year in Russia, and the borders led them to settle on the Kola Peninsula in present-day Russia.

    In Neiden you can still find St. George’s Chapel, a Russian Orthodox chapel built in 1565. In 1902, the Norwegian government funded the Neiden Chapel. The church resembles a stave church to assert the state’s sovereignty in Eastern Finnmark. If you are driving towards Inari in Lapland from Kirkenes, you will pass the church. Today there is a Skolt Sami Museum in Neiden, close to St. George’s Chapel.

    Kirkenes: The Church on a Headland

    In the mid-19th century, the settlement around Kirkenes decided to build a church near the fjord. Originally, the settlement had the strange name ‘Piselvnes’ (Pis River Headland). With the church, the settlement became Kirkenes (Church Headland).

    Discovery of Iron Ore

    Kirkenes grew thanks to the discovery of iron ore 10km south of the settlement. Around that time, very few people lived in Kirkenes. The mining company SydVaranger A/S was founded and the town grew rapidly. In the early 20th century, the population grew to 8,000. Most people came from far away. Besides Norwegian and Sami languages, Russian, Swedish, English and German were common. During World War I, iron ore from Kirkenes was in high demand. At most, 1,500 people worked in the mines. In 1908, the Hurtigruten made Kirkenes its turning point.

    World War II

    With its proximity to the Soviet Union, Kirkenes was valuable throughout World War II. When the Winter War broke out in Finland, Kirkenes was a safe haven. More than 1,300 refugees from Finland and the Soviet Union crossed.

    Less than a year later, in July 140, German forces invaded Kirkenes. Kirkenes became one of the most important bases in Norway for the Germans.

    The Murmansk Front

    Up to 10,000 German soldiers were present in Kirkenes during the war. The main goal of the Germans was to block British shipments into Murmansk. Additionally, Kirkenes was important during the German invasion of the Soviet Union. When Operation Barbarossa began in 1941, Allied convoys supplied Murmansk with food and materials. It was then sent to Moscow to prevent the fall of the capital. The Germans used Kirkenes to target and attack these convoys.

    Kirkenes became a target for bombing and air raids by both the Allies and the Soviets. Air-raid warnings sounded over 1,000 times and there were over 300 bombing raids. After Malta, Kirkenes was the place in Europe subject to the most intensive bombing.

    The Partisans

    The area around Kirkenes was also important for the partisans. Norwegians signed up to train in espionage in the Soviet Union. After returning to Norway, they set up observation posts along the Finnmark coast. From there, they reported on German shipping and military activity. Their reports were for the Soviet Union.

    They lived in simple conditions and were completely isolated. During the Cold War, many of them ended up with accusations of having Communist sympathies. A memorial for 11 freedom fighters stands near Kirkenes. They helped partisans collect information about the Occupation. They were caught and sent to a POW camp in summer 1943. A couple of months later, they were killed close to the memorial spot.

    The fighting between Kirkenes and Murmansk cost the lives of tens of thousands of soldiers. The terrain is difficult, and the weather made it worse. It was difficult to establish supply chains for the soldiers. Most soldiers either died in action or they froze to death in temperatures as low as -40C/F.

    Over 80 prisons and POW camps were located in the area around Kirkenes, and at one point more than 7,000 Soviet prisoners of war were held in these camps.

    Liberation of Kirkenes & Rebuilding

    In October 1944, Finland and the Soviet Union agreed to a ceasefire. The Germans intensified their plans to retreat from Finnmark. As the Soviets began to advance on Kirkenes, the Germans began their retreat. During the retreat, the Germans used their scorched earth tactic. Anything they passed, they set on fire. Anything that was remaining in Kirkenes after all the bombing raids burned down.

    Most of the population fled to the mines to hide underground. Up to 3,000 people lived in the mines – 11 babies were born there! The movie Under a Stone Sky from 1997 is about this event.

    Only 13 houses were standing after the war. The church that gave the name ‘Kirkenes’ did not survive.

    On the 25th of October 1944, the Soviets entered Kirkenes. The locals gave them a heroes welcome. Kirkenes was the first town in Norway liberated by the Red Army.

    Learn about the history between Kirkenes and Russia by visiting the Grenseland Museum.

    Video about the liberation: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bM5cJkXUOx4

    After the liberation, the locals had to live in the ruins and cellars of bombed houses. It took some time for rebuilding to begin. The general shortage of timber meant that materials had to be imported. Many children were sent to Sweden to ‘fatten up’ with Swedish families for a couple years.

    Kirkenes was rebuilt thanks to the Marshall Plan from the United States. Moreover, with the rebuilding, Kirkenes became the first town in Northern Norway to get sealed streets.

    Post-War Developments

    During the Cold War, Kirkenes was just one of two borders between NATO and the Soviet Union (the other was in Turkey) and for much of the 1990s it was the only border between Russia and NATO.

    The mines in Kirkenes re-opened in 1952 and were incredibly important for the post-war building that was taking place all around Europe. However, the iron market fell in the 1990s and Sydvaranger mining completely shut down in 1996. The loss of their traditionally largest industry led to major changes in Kirkenes.

    In the 1990s, Kirkenes underwent changes and became an important city for the Barents region. The Kirkenes Declaration was signed in 1993, and the Barents Euro-Arctic Region was formalised as a collaboration between Finland, Sweden, Norway and Northwest Russia. The core idea was ‘people to people collaboration’ across the borders, especially with Russia after the Cold War ended.

    Kirkenes was finally granted town status in 1998.

    Kirkenes Travel Guide