European Highways

  • Drive it Yourself: The Finnish Border to Tromsø on the E8

    Drive it Yourself: Finland to Tromsø on the E8

    The E8 from the Finnish border down the Finnmarksplateau to Tromsø is a short but scenic drive. The first half of the drive is rugged and remote, passing incredible sites such as the Rovijokfossen waterfall. The second half of the drive partly follows the E6 highway that goes across the length of Arctic Norway. All in all, this drive is great for those exploring the high north.

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    Finland to Tromsø on the E8

    Kilpisjärvi

    This drive begins in Kilpisjärvi, a Finnish village just over the border. The road from Finland to Tromsø is commonly called “Nordlysveien” – the Northern Lights Road – as there are many spots to pull over to observe the northern lights.

    Storfjord Municipality

    Storfjord is a municipality in the Troms County of Northern Norway. The name comes from the Storfjorden that runs through the area, while the coat-of-arms shows three poppies that are rotated around a meeting point which represents the meeting point of the three countries Norway, Sweden, and Finland.

    The first peoples to live here were the Sami people. In the 19th century settlers from Finland and Southern Norway began to establish themselves. Sami culture has survived in parts of the municipality. In the 19th century the Laestadianism religious movement obtained a strong position, and Skibotn is still a stronghold for this movement.

    The landscape of Storfjord is characterised by alpine mountains, and the highest mountain is Vassdalsfjellet (1587m), while the most ‘famous’ mountain is Otertind.

    Highest Point on the Road

    Landmark

    Just after coming into Norway, you pass the highest point on the E8 highway. It is 542 metres high.

    The first stretch of the E8 highway is remote and rugged. You will pass numerous parking places along the way.

    Skibotndalen Valley

    Scenic Area

    The valley area you are driving through is called Skibotndalen, which is a popular valley for hunting moose. The river you are driving along is the Rovijokkelva, a 60km long river that originates from the lake Bajimus Rovvejarvi and flows in a south-west direction.

    Rovijokfossen

    Waterfall

    Rovijokfossen is a waterfall located by the highway. There is a large parking lot by the waterfall but no signage. In Google Maps the waterfall is called “Rovijoen putous”. This is where the river Rovvejohka drops 28 metres and ends in the river Skibotnelva. It is possible to go for a short walk to get close to the waterfall.

    Skibotn

    Town

    Skibotn is a small village with a population of 538 located at the end of the Lyngen fjord and close to Kilpisjarvi in Finland. The residents of the village are either descendants of the Sami and Kven people or the Norwegian immigrants who came in the 19th century.

    Historically, Skibotn was a meeting point and market for the different ethnic groups in the area. The market still takes place today and is named ‘Skibotn markedsplass’ on GPS if you want to visit.

    Skibotn is the place in Norway that has registered the clearest days and it is one of the driest places in Norway. Because of the lack of clouds, there is an astrophysical observatory located in Skibotn.

     

    Hatteng
    Town

    Hatteng is located at the southern end of the Storfjorden, a branch of the Lyngenfjorden and the fjord you will start driving along.


    Storfjord Church is the main church and was built in 1952. The first church was built in 1917 and was used both as a church and the local school. The old church wasn’t destroyed during World War II, but after the war a new church was built and the old building was used just as a school. The church is located at the address Rv868 6, 9046 Oteren

    In 1944 the Nazis established a village here with several thousand soldiers stationed here. The nickname was “Little Berlin’ and the village had several camps with Russian prisoners of war. Two marked graves have been identified. A Nazi watertower is located in the village (“Tysk vanntårn” on GPS).

    Balsfjord Municipality

    Balsfjord is a municipality in the Troms County of Northern Norway. The coat-of-arms depicts a yellow plough on a red background, symbolising the importance of agriculture in the municipality. The plough also symbolises that the municipality is at the northernmost border on which grain can be grown in Norway. No other area in Troms has so much cultivated land. Agriculture is mostly based on milk and meat production and Balsfjord has the highest number of cattle, sheep, and goats among the municipalities in Troms. One of the dairies is the country’s largest goat cheese producer.

    The Sami people were the first people to inhabit the area, but around 1800 new settlers came from Finland and Southern Norway. Today, very few traces of Sami culture survive. From the 18th until the 20th century, trappers from Balsfjord were active in the Arctic, hunting in the areas around Greenland and Svalbard.

    The municipality was home to a religious group of ‘mindekirken’ or ‘freechurch dissenters’ who split from the state church in Tromsø. They were led by a seminary student, Johannes Andreas Johannessen and they established their own church, the Free Apostolic Christian Church, in Balsfjord. Bomstad and his followers were said to have protested against the Tromsø state church minister and Troms Bishop’s religious rulings, eventually leading to a riot in Tromsø. The state church members yelled at Bomstad and his dissenters to “go back to Kautokieno!”. In 1862, Bomstad led a group of colonists to America, arriving into Chicago. After that they went to the area of St. Peter, Minnesota, where they remained. Bomstad left St. Peter and became the founding father of Lake Lillian in Minnesota. After staking his original claim, Bomstad and the rest of the colonists arrived at Lake Lillian and built dugout shelters to live. Eventually they all had log cabins to live in.

    Close to Balsfjord Church are 6000-year-old rock carvings at Tennes.

    Piggsteinen

    Roadside Attraction

    Located just out of Nordkjosbotn is Piggsteinen. It has been a tradition since ancient times to carve ones name into this stone when travelling. In recent times spray cans have taken over and many thousands of names have formed a thick layer of paint on the stone. It’s not marked on the highway and difficult to see if you’re driving towards Tromsø, but put in the address 137 E6 9040 Nordkjosbotn or “Piggsteinen” into GPS.

    See more here. 

    Nordkjosbotn

    Town

    Nordkjosbotn is a small town with a population of around 480 people. Nordkjosbotn is located at the junction of the two major highways in Northern Norway – the E6 and the E8 – and it is located in one of the few winter-safe passages for the region. Because of its location, the town is the commercial centre of the region. Nordkjosbotn is also a town with a growing population.

    Tromsø Municipality

    Vadsø municipality is named after the town of Vadsø that we will soon be driving through. The coat-of-arms shows a reindeer as reindeer husbandry is common for the municipality and of great economic importance, especially for the Sami people.

    The municipality spreads across the southern coast of the Varanger peninsula. There are trees here as this part of the peninsula is sheltered from the sea, but the tree line is at around 200 metres above sea level.

    Ramfjord

    Village

    Ramfjord (also called Fagernes) is a small village located just south of Tromsø. Around 1,000 people live here and there’s schooling and a trotting track. The Univeristy of Tromsø has a research station here too.

    Tromsø

    Tromsø is the largest city in Northern Norway and fourth-largest city in all of Norway. Located on an island in the middle of a strait, Tromsø was first mentioned in history in the mid-13th century when King Håkon Håkonsson had a fortress and church built there to defend Norway against the ‘heathens’ (Sami people).

    Tromsø didn’t see growth until the 18th century, when it emerged as an important harbour for Arctic hunting and trade. Tromsø earned the nicknamed ‘the Paris of the North’ because Europeans visiting to partake in trade were surprised to find that people living this far-north weren’t harsh and basic, but rather they were speaking multiple languages, wearing the finest Parisian clothing, and had many cultural events.

    Tromsø is one of the few places in Northern Norway that wasn’t destroyed during World War II, so has a number of wooden houses from the 19th century.

    Today Tromsø has a population of around 70,000 and is a major university town. Tromsø also has one of the major hospitals for Northern Norway.

  • Drive it Yourself: Oslo to Kristiansand on the E18

    Drive it Yourself: Oslo to Kristiansand on the E18

    Drive from Oslo to Kristiansand on the E18! The E18 is a major highway running through Scandinavia. Starting over in St. Petersburg, the highway travels across Finland and via ferry to Stockholm, where it can then be followed all the way to Kristiansand. There used to be a ferry across to England, which is where the E18 continues over to Ireland, however the ferry is no longer operating. Still, it is an interesting highway to follow.

    This guide follows the stretch from Oslo to Kristiansand. Along the way, you pass a number of interesting historic port communities, and many are worth spending time in. The drive from Oslo to Kristiansand isn’t long – only 4 hours – but allow an extra day or two so you can enjoy all the stops along the way. 

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    Oslo to Kristiansand on the E18

    Oslo

    This drive begins in Oslo, Norway’s capital city. You can find a detailed overview of Oslo via our dedicated travel guide page. 

    Oslo's Neighbourhoods

    Neighbourhoods

    As you drive out of Oslo you will pass the affluent neighbourhoods of Sandvika and Asker. 

    Lier Municipality

    Lier municipality is known for its agriculture, and is regularly nicknamed the strawberry municipality, or the apple and vegetable municipality. It has also been nicknamed ‘the green lung between Oslo and Drammen’. 

    Lierskogen

    Village

    This is the easternmost part of the Lier municipality. Lierskogen is an active agricultural village with the production of milk, meat and sheep farming. 

    Drammen Municipality

    Drammen municipality is the first municipality you’ll pass through. It is named after Drammen, the city and centre of the municipality.

    Drammen is located where the Drammen River flows into the fjord. The river has been important for timber trade for hundreds of years, and thanks to this Drammen developed into one of Eastern Norway’s most important maritime and trading towns. 

    During the Viking Age, the area was called Dramm, a Norse word that can mean ‘waves’. In the Norse sagas, it is written that Olav the Holy (St. Olav) hid from Knut the Mighty in the Dramm fjord. Oslo’s Saint Hallvard is also from Drammen – he was killed and sunk in the Drammensfjord in 1043. 

    Drammen

    Drammen is today the fifth largest city in Norway, with a population of 111,000. It is also one of the fasted growing urban regions in the country. Despite this rapid modern growth, Drammen does have some interesting places to visit, as well as an interesting history. Read about Drammen on our dedicated travel guide page. 

    Vestfold og Telemark County

    You now cross into Vestfold and Telemark County. The two used to be two individual counties, but in 2020 they were merged under a government restructure. However, they are planning to separate again. So, you are technically just in Vestfold County!

    Holmestrand Municipality

    The area around Holmestrand has long been connected to timber trade and the construction of sailing ships. The Dutch first came to the area to trade timber in 1550, and Holmestrand grew quickly. You can visit the historic pier in the town centre. 

    Today Holmestrand is regarded as a popular holiday destination due to its proximity to some nice beaches. The first spa was built here in 1840. 

    Holmestrand town has a population of 8,000 people. 

    Detour: Tønsberg

    Tønsberg is a short detour off the E18 but is well worth it – it is regarded as Norway’s oldest town and was founded before the year 871. It was an important centre during the Viking Age. Some sites survive from old times, and there’s a great museum in town. 

    Sandefjord Municipality

    Sandefjord is known for its rich Viking history and is where one of the Viking ships at the Viking Ship Museum in Oslo were found – the Gokstad Ship. However, Sandefjord also developed as an important whaling centre and now has Europe’s only museum dedicated to whaling. 

    Today Sandefjord municipality is a popular summer destination for Norwegians and there are ferries linking the municipality to Germany and Denmark. 

    Sandefjord

    Sandefjord is worth spending some time in – the museums are wonderful and the town itself is charming. Learn about Sandefjord via our dedicated travel guide below. 

    Larvik Municipality

    Larvik municipality has a population of around 48,000 and like the other communities we have passed through, is today known as a popular summer spot for Norwegians.

    Larvik does have an interesting history, too. Remains from the Stone Age have been found here and during the Roman Iron Age, ancient peoples erected a stone monument resembling a ship at Istrehågen, and this is today regarded as one of Norway’s greatest remains from prehistoric times. 

    Larvik was a Danish county until 1817. The rest of Norway had come under Danish rule, and four local businessmen bought the county in 1817, making it part of Norway. 

    The highway passes by the town of Larvik. 

    Porsgrunn Municipality

    Porsgrunn was first mentioned in historic documents in 1576, but has been a place long before then. The area became an important harbour town in the late 16th century, and Porsgrunn was the home of some of Norway’s most influential families. For a while, Porsgrunn was considered the cultural centre of Norway.

    The processing industry is the biggest industry in the municipality, and Yara – one of the world’s largest mineral fertiliser factories – is located here. 

    Porsgrunn

    Porsgrunn is a town with a population of 35,000 and is the outlet of the Telemark Canal, so makes for a nice place to visit. 

    Kragerø

    Village

    Kragerø is a worthwhile detour  – it was referred to as ‘the pearl among coastal towns’ by Edvard Grieg, after all. At one point, it was one of Norway’s largest shipping towns. The village today is spread over both sides of the Bysundet strait and is a charming place to stop at. 

    Agder County

    Agder country stretches across the southern part of Norway. It is also commonly referred to as Sørlandet, or “the South”. 

    Agder was one of the petty kingdoms during the Viking Age, and the place is mentioned in teh Old Norse sagas. 

    Gjerstad Municipality

    The municipality of Gjerstad has been inhabited since the Stone Age, and the place was important during the Viking Age. Agriculture has been important here for centuries, and timber also provided a good income for many people.

    Risør Municipality

    Risør municipality is primarily a tourist municipality thanks to the lakes, hills and coastline. 

    In the first week of August, there is a wooden boat festival and the municipality has a growing reputation as the regional capital of arts and crafts. 

    The village of Risør has existed for a long time, and the Dutch began coming in the 16th century to trade timber. The village has a Baroque Church from 1647. 

    Sadly the whole town was destroyed by fire in 1861 and has been completely reconstructed since then. 

    You do not pass through Risør; rather, it is a short detour off the E18 highway. 

    After passing through the village of Akland, you will go through the Sørlands Portal – a tunnel marking the beginning of Southern Norway. 

    Tvedestrand Municipality

    Tvedestrand municipality is a historic municipality with the centre being the village of Tvedestrand. One of the oldest buildings in the municipality is Holt Church, which dates from the 12th century and has an ancient baptismal font.

    Tvedestrand

    Village

    Tvedestrand town is only a short detour off the E18 and is worth visiting. The town centre has white wooden houses with irregular streets built on steep hills around the harbour, making it a beautiful village. Around 2,000 buildings are more than 100 years old. It is a popular summer place for Norwegians because of the numerous islands and nice scenery. There are around 1,700 summer cottages here.

    Arendal Municipality

    Arendal municipality is a sizeable municipality with 45,000 people living here. It was mentioned for the first time as an important port in documents from 1528. 

    Arendal

    Arendal is commonly referred to as the ‘Venice of the North’ as the historic town is built on seven islets. Visit our dedicated travel guide page below. 

    Skaggerak Coast

    Coast

    Skagerakk is the strait that runs between the Jutland peninsula of Denmark and the southeast coast of Norway. It is one of the busiest shipping routes in the world because it is the passage from the North Sea to the Baltic Sea. It was historically the only entrance to the Baltic Sea, but since 1784 there has been the Eider Canal.

    Grimstad Municipality

    Grimstad municipality is centred around the coastal village of Grimstad, which has a harbour, church and museum dedicated to Henrik Ibsen. After all, Ibsen worked as an apprentice in the pharmacy before leaving the town in 1850. Ibsen’s knowledge of the people and surroundings of Grimstad can be seen in the poem Terje Vigen.

    Grimstad has been known for a long time, but it was recognised as a harbour town in 1622. By 1747, Grimstad had a sizeable sailing community and was a known place for smugglers.

    Grimstad

    Grimstad is a historic harbour town and a nice place to visit on your road-trip. Visit our dedicated road-trip page below. 

    Lillesand Municipality

    Lillesand municipality is centred around the town of Lillesand. It is one of the more modern ports along the Skaggerak coast as it was established in 1821. However, at the time it had nine shipyards. The end of sailing ships caused huge economic difficulties for the municipality as sailing ships were inexpensive due to the use of timber, whereas steamships required steel that was expensive. Many people from Lillesand ended up emigrating to the United States.

    In Lillesand you’ll find the National Park Skjærgårdsparken, which is spread out across islands, skerries and rocks. There’s also a Maritime Museum about the history of the municipality.

    Kristiansand Municipality

    Well, Kristiansand has one of the more impressive coat-of-arms I’ve seen!

    Kristiansand was established in 1641 and is named after the Danish-Norwegian King Christian IV (who also renamed Oslo after himself to Kristiania). The city is strategically located on the Skaggerak coast and used to be an important military base as all traffic had to pass here in and out of the Baltic Sea.

    Kristiansand

    You have made it to Kristiansand, the end of the drive on the E18. Kristiansand is an interesting historic city, so be sure to head over to our dedicated travel guide page to learn more. 

    Write any questions or comments you have in the section below!

  • Drive it Yourself: Kirkenes to Vardø via the E6 and E75

    Drive it Yourself: Kirkenes to Vardø on the E6 and E75

    Here’s my guide to the drive from Kirkenes to Vardø on the E75. Looking for a drive that will take you through the rugged Eastern Finnmark? To be honest, when I did this drive I had it planned as more of a “A to B” type of drive. I wasn’t expecting the scenery to be so incredible! The drive on the E6 from Kirkenes to Varangerbotn is so rocky and wild, while the E75 becomes flat and barren. This drive is incredible.

    Part of this drive does make up the Varanger Tourist Road, but I have decided to write that as a separate article. For this article, I wanted to focus on this drive as though it were just a regular highway. Enjoy!

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    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    Kirkenes to Vardø via the E6 and E75

    Kirkenes

    This drive begins in Kirkenes, which is one of the easternmost cities in Norway. It has a fascinating war and cultural history and is worth spending some time in.

    Russian border

    Border crossing/detour

    It is possible to drive to the Russian border, but you cannot cross the border into Russia. You will see signs pointing to Murmansk, which is approximately 255km (158 miles), or a 3 hour drive, away. On the border is a souvenir shop, restrooms, and signs pointing to Russia that you can take photos of. 

    Bjørnevatn

    Town

    The community of Bjørnevatn, also known as ‘the mining town’, has been of strategic importance for the development of Kirkenes. The mine is Europe’s largest open-cast mine and opened in 1906. It has since closed down. The mine did reopen in 2009, but shut again in 2015 due to lower costs from other countries. Today around 2,500 people live in Bjørnevatn.

    Garrison Sør-Varanger

    Military Barracks

    The garrison in Sør-Varanger is a military unit based at Høybuktmoen. The departments main task is to patrol and monitor the Norwegian-Russian border. The garrison consists mainly of conscripted soldiers, and there are 400 new conscripts every six months. They mostly tell tourists when they are wandering into Russia, but another goal is to monitor Russian activity on the border.

    Kirkenes Airport

    Airport

    Kirkenes was originally built as a military air station by the Luftwaffe during World War II. The airport reopened for civilians in 1963 with a new terminal and extended runway.

    The airport has direct flights to Oslo and Tromsø through SAS and Norwegian, as well as Widerøe flights to Vadsø and other small coastal communities. 

    Neiden

    Village

    Neiden is regarded as the centre of Eastern Sami culture in Norway and a large proportion of the population are of Finnish descent.

     A large part of the population are Skolt Sami, which is the Orthodox Sami. In town is the Skolt Sami Museum from 2017, which is trying to preserve and present Skolt Sami culture. They also have an outdoor museum with preserved buildings from an old Skolt Sami settlement. It includes St. Georges Chapel, a Russian Orthodox chapel that was built in 1565.

    The Skolt Sami are a unique Sami group. They are more closely related to the Russians compared to the Finns or Norwegians and are regarded as a minority group amongst the Sami. They have been more severely impacted by land borders and country regulations than other Sami groups and are marked by high unemployment and low literacy rates. The Skolt Sami language is considered highly endangered and was only written down in 1992.

    There is a settlement called Neiden on the Norwegian and the Finnish side. The area used to be one settlement for the Skolt Sami, but when the borders were laid out in the 1850s they were separated. When the area was divided up, Neiden was forced to split across the countries.

    Neiden also has Neiden Chapel – built in 1902 as a Norwegian ‘dragestil’ (dragon style) church to symbolise the Norwegian state sovereignty in the area. It is a Lutheran church and is well worth seeing. The Norwegian government invited Norwegian settlers to the area, building the Lutheran church to counterbalance the Orthodox chapel.

    Skolt Sami Museum

    Museum

    The Skolt Sami museum is a cultural history museum dedicated to the Eastern Sami, or the Skolt Sami.

    Visit their website here: https://dvmv.no/en/vv-skoltesamisk-muse/avv-skoltesami-museum/

    Bugøyfjord
    Village

    Bugøyfjord is a small village along the Varangerfjord. It was a predominantly Sami community until the Kven people arrived in the 1860s. It was one of the first villages to be burned to the ground by Germans during the retreat in 1944.

    In the village is a memorial marker for John Savio. He is the first Sami person to have his own exhibition in the National Gallery in Oslo. He didn’t achieve fame during his life, but since his death has been recognised as one of the greatest Sami artists. He is also the only Sami artist to make a name for himself before World War II. He worked primarily in wood cuts.

    Nesseby Municipality

    Nesseby is a small municipality located at the isthmus between the Varangerfjord and the Tana River at the entrance to the Varanger peninsula. The population lives in small settlements along the fjord and the Varangerhalvøya National Park is partly located in the park. The municipality is known for its interesting birdlife and also its tundra with areas of bog and marsh.

    Today the municipality is known as Unjárga-Nesseby, reflecting the Sami community who live here. Nesseby was the second municipality in Norway to get a Sami name. Most of the inhabitants are Sami and Sami is being taught as the first language in schools. In historic times, reindeer used to cross this area as part of their annual migration.

    This led the Sami to coming into the area. The area between Skippagurra and Varangerbotn is full of archaeological finds from different periods.

    The coat-of-arms represents a cloudberry plant.

    The municipality is the birthplace of Isak Saba, the first Sami to be elected to the Norwegian parliament.

    Bugøynes

    Village/Detour

    Bugøynes was established by Finnish immigrants in the 19th century. They had left their own country due to political unrest and poor living conditions, and came to Norway with their experience in agriculture. They also quickly learned the knowledge of fjord fishing. The Finns also brought their religious traditions with them – a conservative Christian movement known as Læstadianism. It still holds a firm footing in the village.

    The village was saved from the destruction of World War II, so the Finnish architecture has been preserved. The Finnish influence is still strong here, and most of the people living here are of Finnish descent and have Finnish names.

    Bugøynes is around a 15-20 minute detour off the E6, but is well worth it. 

    Varangerbotn

    Village

    Varangerbotn is a small village that is the administrative centre of Nesseby. The population is around 341. In Varanger you can visit the Varanger Sami Museum, a museum for the history and culture of the Sami in Varangerbotn. The museum presents the Sea Sami history, Sami prehistory, and contemporary Sami culture.

    E6 & E75 junction

    Roundabout

    This is where the E6 and the E75 separate. The E75 continues onto the Varanger peninsula towards Vardø, while the E6 goes towards Tana Bru and Lakselv. The roundabout in town marks the beginning the National Tourist Road for Varanger, one of Norway’s 18 national tourist roads. I cover the tourist road in a separate article.

    Vadsø Municipality

    Vadsø municipality is named after the town of Vadsø that we will soon be driving through. The coat-of-arms shows a reindeer as reindeer husbandry is common for the municipality and of great economic importance, especially for the Sami people.

    The municipality spreads across the southern coast of the Varanger peninsula. There are trees here as this part of the peninsula is sheltered from the sea, but the tree line is at around 200 metres above sea level.

    Vestre Jakobselv

    Village

    Vestre Jakobselv is a small village with around 500 people living here. It has a primary and secondary school. The village is popular for its salmon fishing as the Jakobselva river has its outlet here.

    Vadsø

    The only major town we drive through is Vadsø. There is a lot worth seeing here, so browse our separate travel guide page below. 

    Ekkerøy

    Village

    There has been settlement on Ekkerøy since at least the Middle Ages, and finds from the Viking Age have been found there. However, it is not known if Vikings settled there or if they traded there.

    Ekkerøy was an island until 1750, but now there is a land connection to the mainland. Ekkerøy was built up as a fishing village and at its peak had several landing piers, shops, a school, shrimp factory, fish oil processing plant, and dried fish racks. There were 270 people living there; today there are less than 50.

    Parts of Ekkerøy have been declared a nature reserve and the island also has a small bird cliff. In the breeding season, which is from May to September, the cliffs may be home to as many as 20,000 kittiwake pairs.

    The settlement of Ekkerøy was not destroyed during World War II. The well-preserved fish factory is now a museum with warehouses, a cod liver oil steamer, an old shop and an authentically furnished traders residence.

    Skallelv

    Village

    Skallelv was originally one of the several purely Finnish communities in the area, populated at the end of the 19th century. The local people were known as Kvens, the North-Norwegian name for people of Norwegian-Finnish descent. Skallelv is one of the few remaining areas with buildings that were constructed before World War II. The oldest wooden houses here are from before 1860.

    Vardø Municipality

    Vardø municipality is one of the first municipalities to be established in Northern Norway. The coat-of-arms is from 1898 and represents the sunshine, fishing boats, the ocean, and a large cod. In the chief is the year of the towns founding, 1789, along with the words “Vardöensis Insignia Urbis” which means “the seal of the town of Vardø”. In the lower part of the arms is the town motto “Cedant Tenebræ Soli”, meaning “Darkness shall give way to the sun”.

    Several Stone Age sites as well as sites dating from the Sami Iron Age have been found here. Vardø became a Norwegian settlement in the medieval period, and the first church was built here in 1307.

    Fishing and seafood processing are Vardø’s major sources of income. The municipality also has large seabird colonies on the islands of Hornøya and Reinøya.

    Komagvær

    Village

    Komagvær is one of the main gateways to the Varanger National Park, with a gravel road leaving from the town into the park. In the valley are many types of birds, including the Arctic Skua.

    Kiberg

    Village

    Kiberg was one of the largest fishing communities in the area during the 16th and 17th centuries, and was important during the Pomor Trade era. Kiberg is still important for fishing.

    Kiberg was of strategic importance during World War II. The geographical proximity to the Soviet Union brought Russian and Norwegian people together. After the occupation of Norway, many locals went to the Soviet Union. Some returned and worked for the Soviet military intelligence services, with as many as 45 partisans in Kiberg.

    Their most important task was to pass on radio communications about the German shipping fleet. It has been estimated that around 80 German merchant ships were sunk on their way to Kirkenes due to the partisans passing on information. Around half the partisans were killed or executed during the war.

    Vardø Tunnel

    Tunnel

    The Vardø Tunnel is a subsea road tunnel stretching 2.8km (9,400 ft) under the Bussesundet strait that connects the island of Vardøya to the mainland. The tunnel reaches a depth of 88m (289ft) and was opened in 1983.

    Vardø

    This drive finishes in Vardø, Norway’s easternmost city. Vardø is an important historic city and a fantastic place to base yourself while in Eastern Finnmark. 

    Next Drive

    Varanger Tourist Road

    Follow the Varanger Tourist Road from Hamningberg to Varangerbotn via Vardø and Vadsø. 

  • Drive it Yourself: Dombås to Ålesund via Åndalsnes on the E136

    Drive it Yourself: Dombås to Ålesund via Åndalsnes on the E136

    Here’s my guide to the drive from Dombås to Ålesund on the E136. In June 2023 Sean and I decided to take advantage of a sunny weekend and head out to the fjords for a road-trip. I have only ever driving along Trollveggen once, and I vaguely remembered it. However, I had heard over and over again how beautiful it was and realised this was the perfect chance to see the mountains. The drive is short but so beautiful and a great thing to do before climbing up Trollstigen. 

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    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    Dombås to Ålesund on the E136

    Dombås Travel Guide

    This drive begins in Dombås, an important transportation hub. You can read about Dombås on our travel guide below. 

    E136

    Highway

    The E136 highway goes between Ålesund and Dombås, connecting the coastal city with the E6 highway that runs through Norway. The E136 is the main road running between Eastern Norway and the Ålesund/Molde region.

    The old road was, in historic times, an important road for the farmers of the northern part of the Gudbrandsdalen valley and the surrounding mountain villages. They would use the road to get access to the sea, where they could buy items like salt.

    This was one of the first roads between Eastern and Western Norway to be paved as a driving road. Old stations still exist along the road where those travelling in carriages would stop to rest.

    The road runs parallel to the Rauma Railway, a scenic train. Construction for the railway began in 1912 and it was open in 1924. The railway is today mostly a scenic train.

    Lesja Municipality

    Lesja is a mountainous municipality located in the traditional Gudbrandsdalen region. Most of the municipality is above 900m above sea level. The main industry here is agriculture, employing around 30% of the population.

    Rauma Valley

    Valley

    The Romsdalen valley is one of the most spectacular valleys in Norway. Large parts of the valley are narrow and run between high alpine mountains. The valley floor rises from the Romsdalsfjorden and the Rauma river runs through the valley.

    Lesjaverk

    Valley

    Lesjaverk is a small village located at 633m above sea level. In 1659, an ironworks was established here. The mines had a very uneven supply of ore and business here was never stable. However, the iron ore was of very good quality due to the amount of chromium in the ore. The ironworks closed in 1812 as the operation was of never any great importance. Remnants of the mine exist around the village.

    Bjorli

    Village

    Bjorli is a small village that is popular for skiing, with the Bjorli Ski Centre being located here. The area has stable snow conditions and a long ski season. Bjorli is also a good base for the Dovrefjell-Sunndalsfjella National Park. One scene in ‘Harry Potter and the Half-Blood Prince’ was filmed in this area because of its unique mountainous terrain.

    Møre og Romsdal County

    Rauma Municipality

    Rauma municipality is known for its incredible diversity of nature. In the outer parts, the mountains are low and the slopes are gentler. In the inner parts, the slopes are steeper and many mountains have vertical walls. The highest mountain is Pyttegga, at 1999m above sea level.

    Agriculture has traditionally been the most important industry in Rauma, but the number of farms has been greatly reduced since the last half of the 20th century. In the mid-19th century the area became industrialised with textiles factories, and Rauma wool was established in 1927. Today tourism is an important industry.

    Trollveggen

    Mountain Wall

    You are now beginning your drive along Trollveggen, the ‘Troll Wall’ in English. It is Europe’s highest vertical cliff and is approximately 1,700 metres high, with around a 1,000 metre vertical drop. The area has been popular with climbers since the 1960s.

    Kors Kirke

    Church

    Soon we will pass Kors Kirke on the right. This church is from 1797 but was moved from its original location to here in 1902. There has been a church in the valley since the 15th century.

    Trollveggen Visitor Centre

    Trollveggen Visitor Centre is located close to the start of the Trollstigen Tourist Road. Here you’ll find restrooms, a cafeteria and a souvenir shop. There is also some information about Trollveggen and the surrounding area. 

    Trollstigen Tourist Road

    Shortly before arriving at Åndalsnes, you’ll pass the turn-off to the Trollstigen Tourist Road, one of Norway’s 18 national tourist roads. It is a lengthy detour, but is well worth doing!

    Åndalsnes

    Åndalsnes is a scenic fjord-side town with all the major facilities you need during a road-trip. It is also am excellent place to stay if you want to break up the drive. 

    Veblungsnes

    Village

    Veblungsnes is a small village just across the river from Åndalsnes. It is a historic farm that has existed for hundreds of years. In the last 200 years it has developed into a village. The Rauma wool company is located here. The local church, Grytten Church, is from 1829.

    After passing through the village, you’ll go through the 6.5km-long Innfjord Tunnel. 

    Innfjorden

    Village

    Innfjorden is a small village located within Rauma municipality. The village is primarily agricultural. The Innfjorden fjord that the village sits along is a branch of the Romsdalsfjorden.

    Vestnes Municipality

    Vestnes is a mountainous municipality that is mentioned in the Norse sagas, when a chieftain lived here. The municipality is divided into three by two fjords. The main industry here is agriculture, with some maritime industry and boat building.

    Vikebukt

    Village

    Vikebukt is a small village with around 650 people living here. The larger town of Molde is located just across the fjord, but a ferry is needed to get across there. The village has been inhabited since the Viking Age, and today a number of burial mounds can be found throughout the area.

    After driving through Vikebukt you cross the Tresfjordbrua Bridge. 

    Vestnes

    Village

    Vestnes village is located on the shore of the Tresfjorden, which is a branch of the Romsdalsfjord. It is the administrative centre for the municipality. This is also where the E39 merges with the E136, which you have been travelling on so far. From Vestnes it is possible to take a ferry across to Molde.

    Ålesund Municipality

    Ålesund

    Ålesund is one of the larger towns along the west Norwegian coast. It is most famous for its Art Nouveau architecture and modern fishing industry. Read our guide to Ålesund below. 

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

    Previous Drive

    Lom to Dombås

    See the previous day’s drive from Lom to Dombås via Highway 15 and the E6. 

    Next Drive

    Trollstigen Tourist Road

    On the next drive, we take the Trollstigen Tourist Road from Åndalsnes across to Geiranger. 

  • Drive it Yourself: Oslo to Bergen on the E16

    Drive it Yourself: Oslo to Bergen on the E16

    The E16 between Oslo and Bergen follows the historic road between east and west Norway that has existed for thousands of years. Over the centuries the road has gradually been modernised, but traces of the past remain.

    While the E16 is the longer way between the two cities, the road is lined with historic monuments, including stave churches, runestones, and lodgings. It makes for a great, scenic road-trip!

    Here’s our guide to the E16 highway. 

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    The Drive: Oslo to Bergen on the E16

    This drive begins in Oslo. 

    Oslo Travel Guide

    Read more about Oslo, Norway’s capital, on our dedicated travel guide page. Click the button below. 

    Sandvika

    Neighbourhood

    The first neighbourhood you drive through is called Sandvika. While it is technically part of Oslo city, it is in many ways regarded as its own community. The population is approximately 130,000.

    Claude Monet visited the city in 1895. During his visit, he painted the city. Perhaps the most famous work from this visit is “Sandviken Village in Snow”, which shows the Løkka Bridge in the foreground with the hill Kolsås in the background. The bridge still stands today.

    The area of Sandvika has existed since for thousands of years. The Sandvik grounds were rich fishing grounds that provided an important supplement to the farms in Sandvika.

    Sandvika is home to Scandinavia’s largest super mall – the Sandvika Storsenter – with 190 stores and a total area of 60,000 square metres or 650,000 square feet.

    Hole Municipality

    The municipality of Hole is situated around the Tyrifjord, where the soil is fertile and suited to growing fruit, berries, and other agricultural products. The coat-of-arms depicts the four Norwegian Kings who lived in the municipality in the 9th to 11th centuries. The most famous of the four is St. Olav (Olav Haraldsson), though Harald Hårdrade is a close second for fame – he was the one credited with ending the Viking Age at the Battle of Stamford Bridge in 1066. The other three kings are Halvdan Svarte (820-860), Sigurd Syr (-1018), and Harald Hardråde (1015-1066). Harald Hardråde is the king who lost at the Battle of Stamford Bridge in 1066, which is considered to be the event when the Viking Age ended.

    Hole is important in Norwegian history. Archaeological finds from the Roman and Migration periods are numerous, and Hole is known as one of the traditional landscapes from the Viking Age and plays a prominent role in the Norse sagas.

    Stein Church Ruins (Stein Kirkeruin) are located at Steinsfjorden. The church was constructed in the latter half of the 1100s. By the second half of the 1500s, the chapel was no longer in use. There are some historic churches in the area: Bønsnes Church is a medieval church from 1100 and Hole Church is probably from 1200.

    Utøya

    Memorial

    As you drive along the Tyrifjord, down on your left is the island Utøya. This was the site of the terrorist attack that happened in Norway in 2011. It is possible to take a detour down to the memorial site. On GPS it is marked as “Minnesmerke Utøya”.

    Tyrifjord

    Lake

    The Tyrifjord is a lake (not a fjord like the name suggests). It is the fifth largest large in Norway with an area of 139km2 and a maximum depth of 295m. It is one of Norway’s most species-rich lakes. The lake used to be part of the sea, but as the land has risen it has become landlocked. In the fjord, free fishing without a licence is accepted based on tradition and custom. Brown trout is caught in the lake, though crayfish is also popular. 

    Sundvollen

    Village

    Sundvollen is a village located along the eastern part of the Tyrifjord. The name comes from the name of a farm that used to be here. Sundvollen is most noted for its hotels. Sundvolden Hotel is one of Norway’s oldest hotels – it was mentioned in written sources dating from 1648. Kleivstua Hotel was a coaching inn in 1780 which catered to travellers going between Christiania (Oslo) and Ringerike. It is on the Old Royal Bergen Road, the historic road between Oslo and Hadeland. The road is also part of the Old Pilgrims Route from Oslo to Trondheim. Understandably, there were many travellers coming through here. They would stop at one of the hotels for food, accommodations, and to give their horses a rest. Unfortunately both of the hotels have been renovated extensively, so there’s no trace of the original lodgings. 

    Petroglyphs from the Bronze Age have been found approximately 100m from the E16 and show ship figures, circuit figures and bowl pits. 

    In Sundvollen you can hike to “Kongens Utsikt”, a scenic viewpoint overlooking the Tyrifjord. 

    Norderhov Church

    Historic Church

    Norderhov Church is a medieval church that was built in 1170. The church is built in local sandstone and limestone in a Romanesque style of architecture. The church was built on a former pagan court for the god Njord, and that’s where the name Norderhob comes from. The church was historically the most important church in Ringerike. 

    Across the road from the church is Norderhov’s old rectory, which is now the Ringerike Museum. The museum has runestones and its collection of the private belongings of Jørgen Engebretsen Moe, a Norwegian author most famous for ‘Norske Folkeeventyr”, a collection of Nowegian folk tales which he edited in collaboration with Peter Christen Asbjørnsen. 

    The church and vicarage are known for their close association with the vicar’s wife Anna Colbjørnsdatter (1667-1736), who legend says tricked the Swedes by getting the Colonel drunk. This gave the far smaller Norwegian-Danish force an opportunity to inflict a defeat on the Swedes. This was in connection with the Battle of Norderhov in 1716. She then received heroine status and is one of the very few female heroes in Norwegian history. She was married to historian and parish priest Jonas Ramus and they are in the crypt under the church. Her portrait can be seen inside the church. The pulpit is from 1582 and is considered one of Norway’s oldest preserved pulpits. 

    Hønefoss Travel Guide

    You don’t drive through Hønefoss on the E16; it is approximately a five-minute drive into the town. However, this is the first major town that you pass on the drive, so it can be a useful rest stop. 

    Hønefoss is regarded as the centre of Ringerike. The town is located by a waterfall and is founded on the sawmill business that arose from the waterfall in the 17th century. Hønefoss is home to several factories and other industry, with Norske Skog Follum, a timber company, having its headquarters here. Dating from 1873, Norske Skog Follum was one of the largest producers of newsprint in Europe until it closed in 2012. 

    Follum

    Village

    Follum is a small village after Hønefoss on the western side of the Ådal River. It is on the old road that led to the Ådal Valley. The name comes from the oldest farm in the area. 

    Ådal Valley

    Valley

    You are now driving through the Ådal Valley. 

    The first church built in Ådal was a stave church built during the 15th century. It is mentioned in the Diplomatarium Norvegicum in 1462. The church was eventually removed to make way for a larger, more modern church. 

    Viker Church is located on the western shore of the Sperillen Lake and is from 1702. The pulpit, altar and crucifers from the old stave church are inside Viker Church. 

    Valdres Natur og Kulturpark

    Preserve

    You are now entering the traditional district of Valdres, which is situated between the Gudbrandsdal and Hallingdal valleys. The river Begna runs through the municipality. 

    The traditional Valdres region is located approximately halfway between Oslo and Bergen. The valley has the Jotunheimen mountains to the west and the north. Historically, Valdres has been an agricultural economy, but tourism is becoming more important – especially for skiing. 

    Sør-Aurdal Municipality

    The name comes from the valley in which it is located. The coat-of-arms represents a medieval reliquary that is based on the one found at Hedal Stave Church. It has two dragons heads in the design since Sør-Aurdal is one of only two municipalities in Norway that have two stave churches that are still in use. The colour blue represents the two river systems that have historically been important for the logging industry and sawmills. 

    Olav Haraldsson, later St. Olav, travelled through Valdres in 1023 and visited Reinli. At the time, there was a pagan temple at the same location where the stave church stands. 

    One of the highlights of the municipality is Hedalen Stave Church was built in 1160 but rebuilt in 1699. An old legend says that the valley was abandoned during the Black Death and the church was discovered by a bear hunter. A hide is hanging in the church, although there is only a small part of it left as visitors have cut away pieces over the years. We will pass the turnoff for it a little later. 

    Bagn
    Village

    Bagn is the administrative centre of Sør-Aurdal. This area saw extensive fighting during World War II as advancing German forces were stopped in Bagn. The battles in the valley were extensive. 

    In Bagn you can find the Bagn Bygdesamling, a small museum that includes farmhouses, a sawmill, a flour mill, and other buildings. The museum is on a preserved farm. Next to Bagn Church is an intact shop from 1881, which may have been the largest business in Valdres. The shop is open during the summer holidays and before Christmas. 

    Bagn Church is the main church in the valley and seats 350 people. The earliest church in the area was mentioned in 1327, but the church was not new that year. The first church was likely a wooden stave church from the 13th century. The old church was closed in 1683 and for some time the locals had to use Reinli Stave Church. The church that we see today is the second church and dates to 1736. 

    Nord-Aurdal Municipality

    The coat-of-arms for Nord-Aurdal depicts three blue flowers called ‘Snow Gentian’. The flowers are locally known as ‘the blue eyes of Christ’ and grow all over Norway but grow abundantly in this area. They represent the three main settlements of the municipality: Aurdal, Fagernes, and Leira. This is a fairly mountainous municipality. The highest point is 1,325m (4,347ft) high and about 50% of the land is above 900m (3000ft).

    Aurdal
    Village

    Aurdal is a small village with a population of around 647. The village is known for its winter sports activities and is in Valdres’ Alpine Centre. There are several places to stay and eat. There used to be a railway here – the Valdresbanen – but it stopped in 1888. 

    Just after Aurdal is the Noraker Gård. This farm is currently being run by the 12th century. Rakfisk is a highly desirable food from this farm, and in 2022 they won the expert jury award at the Norwegian Rakfisk Festival. In 2006, Rakfisk from Valdres was approved as a protected geographical indication. This means that only fish hatched, reared, and processed in Valdres can be sold under the Rakfisk fra Valdres brand. 

    They have a farm shop that also sells trout, mustard, beer, moose, goat, and art. 

    Rakfisk is a dish made from trout or char where it is salted and autolyzed for two or three months. It is then eaten without cooking and has a strong smell and pungen salty flavour. After the fish is gutted and rinsed, it is placed in a bucket and salt. It is then placed under pressure with a lid that fits down into the bucket and a weight on top. A brine is formed as the salt draws moisture from the fish. The rakfisk bucket is stored at under 5 degreesC for one to three months. The finished product doesn’t need cooking. 

    Fagernes

    Fagernes is a major hub along the E16.

    The word ‘Fagernes’ is a combination of ‘fager’ (beautiful) and ‘nes’ (headland). The town was established in 1857, when the first trading operations started. The first hotel started operations in 1875, and from 1906 there was a train line (it has since closed). 

    If you are travelling in November, you may be in town for the Norwegian Rakfisk Festival, which takes place in the first week of the month. 

    In Fagernes is the Valdres Folkmuseum, a well-known museum that shows the culture of the Valdres region. It is both an indoor and outdoor museum. 

    Ulnes Church

    Historic Church

    Ulnes Church is a beautiful church that you’ll pass shortly after leaving Fagernes. The earliest records of the church go back to 1307, but it was not new that year. Estimates say that the church was built around the year 1265 as its architecture reflects the transition between Romanesque and Gothic architecture. 

    In 1675, there were plans to replace it with a new wooden church as it was decaying, but thankfully that didn’t happen. Around 1720, the church was put out of use. It was described in 1733 by a bishop as “a pile of stones” with only the choir being suitable to keep. The church was restored in 1737, with the nave being demolished and rebuilt. The interior was also refurbished. 

    Vestre Slidre Municipality

    The next municipality is Vestre Slidre. The municipality is partly named after the historic Slidre Church, which you’ll see soon. The coat-of-arms are based on a heraldic decoration found in the Slidredomen church that dates to 1170. The design was originally part of a seal that belonged to a medieval nobleman in the area. The meaning of the design is unknown. 

    Vestre Slidre is mentioned in the Old Norse sagas. Harald Fairhair, who became the first King of Norway (872-930), did some conquests over petty kingdoms. One of the encounters that led to the overall conquest was with Skallagrim Kveldulvssøn in Vestre Slidre. Also, in 1023, King Olav Haraldsson came to the area to Christianise the people. The locals were caught unaware, and Olav took all their boats. They would only get them back if they accepted Christianity, which they did. 

    Lastly, in 2000 Sami gamme huts (a simple form of a hut) were found in the municipality. This is the southernmost discovery of Sami settlements.

    Slidre

    Village

    Slidre is the next village on the E16. It has a population of around 337. 

    In Slidre you can see the Vestre Slidre Church (Slidredomen), a historic stone church from around 1170. The church is built in the Romanesque style of architecture and the stone walls are approximately 160cm (63 inches) thick. 

    The church is unique in that it doesn’t have a west portal. Instead, the main entrance is from the south.

    The furniture is from the 18th century, while there are frescoes from the 15th century. The choir has a painted wooden vault from the 14th century, which depicts Jesus Christ in the mandorla centrally in the middle. On the north wall, a medieval coat-of-arms has been uncovered and is used as Vestre Slidre’s coat-of-arms. 

    The area here is very old. Above the village of Slidre is an ancient burial ground called the ‘Gardberg Site’. Here you can see the Einangsteinen runestone. It is believed to be from the 4th century and is considered the oldest runestone in the Nordics that is standing in its original place. The name Einang comes from a nearby farm. 

    Lomen Stave Church

    Lomen Stave Church is from around the year 1192. The church is a pillar stave church, meaning the main room has four supporting stave beams. The style and decoration of the church is part of the “Valdres-Sogn” stave churches. This groups many of the churches from Valdres Valley and around the Sognefjord that have the same features. Considering the old King’s Road used to run through the valley to Sogn, they likely shared design tips.

    Like all stave churches, Lomen Stave Chuch has fallen victim to modernisation and renovation. The choir is from a major renovation in the 1750s. During this time, the walls were also expanded to make the main room larger.

    During the last refurbishment, archaeological excavations uncovered 71 artefacts, including jewellery and coins. The oldest coin found here is from King Sverre’s time, 1177-1202.

    Today the church, neighbouring bell tower and cemetery are under protection. Many original features of the church remain, despite major renovations. The most illustrative are the portals, which have decorations of dragons, vines, and animal heads. Some of the portals have moved around the church, but they do date back to medieval times. These kinds of decorations are common on Valdres-Sogn stave churches. The roof and wall timbers are also original.

    Vang Municipality

    Vang is a small municipality in the traditional Valdres region. The name comes from an old farm, though vang comes from the Old Norse word vangr meaning ‘field’ or ‘meadow’. The coat-of-arms are rather special – they are based on historic descriptions and depictions of the personal arms of a local medieval nobleman called Sigvat of Leirhol. He was named as one of the members of the delegation that followed King Håkon V Magnusson to Copenhagen in 1309. He then became the governor of Valdres. His coat-of-arms can also be seen on Vang Church. 

    The municipality was originally populated by migrants from Western Norway. 

    The ancient Vang Church was the site of a legal court held by King Håkon VI in 1368. 

    Høre Stave Church

    Høre Stave Church is one of the stave churches with an insight into the fascinating past of Norway. Especially around and shortly after the time of the Civil War in the 12th and early 13th century. We know that the Christianisation of Valdres wasn’t easy. St. Olav, then King Olav, came from the west through the valley. He held farmers hostage and burnt down farms until they agreed to convert. According to the Sagas, Olav had churches built and clergymen appointed. None of these churches remains, but many of the stave churches are on the same spot, including Høre Stave Church.

    In medieval times, Valdres had many churches. There were at least 21 of them; 18 of which were stave churches. To compare, the neighbouring valley Hallingdal had 8 stave churches. Sadly very few remain today. 

    Judging from the rune inscriptions found inside the church and dating the timber, Høre Stave Church is from around 1179. It was originally a pillar church, with four corner staves. Under the church are graves, some of them children. It wasn’t allowed but common to bury children under stave churches. As they had not been baptised yet, the parents worried the children would not be accepted into heaven. Some foetuses were also found under the church. There is evidence of ceremonial burials under the church, likely from pre-Christian times.

    The original stave church somewhat exists today; all that remains is its skeleton. The skeleton is hidden by the cladding. The ship is still the original size, giving a sign of the original size of the church room.

    Vang i Valdres

    The word ‘vang’ comes from an old farm that stood here; this farm is also where the first church stood. Vang, like the rest of the Valdres Valley, was populated by migrants from Western Norway. People have lived in this valley (Vangr means meadow or field) for thousands of years. This is likely due to its proximity between east and west Norway. Vang is by a lake just before the mountain pass to Western Norway and thus made for a good rest stop.

    Vang became the site of a legal court (ting in Norwegian), and the ancient stave church was next to the site. The site was famously used by King Haakon VI in 1368 when he was settling a boundary dispute.

    Vang also became part of the ancient royal road between Bergen and Oslo. In the 16th century, it was the postal road, and from the 18th century, it was Kongevegen. Kongevegen was the first road for horse and cart between East and West, and I’ve covered it on my page for the E16. Today, the highway follows the same path as Kongevegen. Still, the town and nearby area became a place where travellers would seek refuge at some point on their journey. 

    The Vang Stone is clearly marked and is by the E16. Parking is available across the street. 

    Øye Stave Church

    Øye Stave Church is one of the smallest and oldest stave churches in Norway. It is likely from some time during the second half of the 12th century. The church is first mentioned in written documents in 1347. It stood by the old traffic road over Filefjell, which was the first road between Bergen and Oslo.

    Kongevegen

    Historic Road

    As you may have noticed by now, there are a number of churches and important historic sites along the E16. This is because the E16 follows one of the ancient crossings between east and west Norway. It is called ‘Kongevegen’ (The Kings Road). The road is ancient and is believed to have been the first way between east and west. The first postal road was laid here in 1647, and the road received official status in 1791. 

    Ever since people have lived in Norway has this been the most useful route between east and east. A number of tracks show traffic throughout the Stone Age and Bronze Age. The road was also important in the Christianisation of Norway, as is evident in the large number of churches along the road. Many ancient farms here also became inns for travellers, and some survive today. In the Middle Ages, the road was known as the most difficult and dangerous in the country. As many Danish public servants were travelling between Bergen and Christiania (Oslo), it was decided to modernize the road in the 17th century. The road was built as straight as possible and became known as the Royal Postal Road. Most of the trip was done on foot. 

    In the 18th century, travelling with horse and carriage became more common, so it was decided to modernise the road again. In 1791, the official road was completed and Kongevegen became the first carriage road between east and west Norway. The road was built by hand. Today the E16 skips many of the most difficult parts with tunnels, but parts of the old road remain and are now a popular hiking trail. In 2017, Kongevegen was awarded the EU’s most important cultural heritage award, Europa Nostra. 

    It is possible to spend the night in one of the many lodges over the mountains and do short or long hikes. 

    Tyinkrysset

    Village

    Tyinkrysset is a village located in the Filefjell mountains, which is where the historic crossing between east and west Norway was. The village sits at an elevation of around 900 metres (3,000 feet). This area is popular with hikers. You’ll find some hotels up in the area. 

    Filefjellet Mountains

    Mountains

    You are now crossing the Filefjellet mountain range across to Western Norway. It has been an important crossing path between east and west Norway since ancient times. The highest peaks are 1013m above sea level. 

    The E16 follows a lot of the same path as the old road. 

    Lærdal Municipality

    Lærdal is the first municipality in Vestland county. Lærdal has a dry climate, with 420mm – 600mm of rainfall annually in the inhabited areas. Through the valley runs the Lærdalselvi, or the Laerdal River, known as the ‘Queen of the Salmon Rivers’. It is one of the country’s most famous large salmon rivers. The valleys have opportunities for hunting deer, reindeer, and elk. The valley was inhabited and used by humans as far back as 6,000 years ago. In places, the vally has been used since the Early Stone Age. In the mountains are the first traces of people in the mountain areas of Norway.

    Lærdal has always been the main road between east and west Norway. The area where the village Lærdalsøyri is developed as a marketplace in the Middle Ages. Coastal farmers brought herring and fish and exchanged goods with mountain farmers from Valdres. At least five generations of road structure remain in the Lærdal valley, which proves the valleys important function as a hub. Lærdal has a long tradition with agriculture. The lower part of the valley has one of the country’s best climatic conditions for growing vegetables. Early production of potatoes and vegetables is important. 

    Borlaug

    Village

    The next village is Borlaug. This is where the E16 joins with Highway 52, which runs over the Hemsedal mountains (it’s an alternative way between Oslo and Bergen). You’ll pass some old farmhouses on the right as you drive through the village. 

    Borgund

    Village

    Borgund is a mountain village. It has been an important spot on the journey between east and west Norway for hundreds of years. There are several farms in the village and agriculture is the main industry here. 

    Borgund Stave Church

    Borgund Stave Church is the most famous of Norway’s 28 remaining stave churches. The exact age of Borgund Stave Church is unknown. It is possibly as old as 1150 when looking at the timber. However, the church is generally regarded as being from around the year 1200. It is dedicated to the apostle Andrew.

    The church is fascinating; a visit to it should not be missed. The church is open in the summer for tourists for a small fee. Check their website for more information. 

    Lærdal

    You will bypass the village of Lærdal on the E16, but it’s a worthwhile detour to drive into the village. Lærdal is a historic trading place on the old postal route between Oslo and Bergen. It was where the travellers would leave their horses behind and take boats the rest of the way to Bergen. Lærdal is also a fantastic place for trying the foods from the Sognefjord region, including potatoes, berries, and cider. 

    You can read about Lærdal on our dedicated travel guide page. 

    Aurlandsfjellet Tourist Road

    In the summer months, it’s possible to take the Aurlandsfjellet Tourist Road across to Aurland instead of going through the tunnel. 

    Lærdal Tunnel

    Tunnel

    Welcome to the world’s longest road tunnel! The Lærdal Tunnel is 24.5km (15.2 miles) long. The tunnel was constructed between 1995 and 2000 and cost $113 million USD. The tunnel does not have emergency exits; there are emergency phones every 250 metres as well as 15 turning areas for buses and semi-trailers. There are rooms in the tunnel with food and supplies in case anyone gets stuck in there. The tunnel has high air quality through ventilation and purification. 

    It incorporates features to help manage the mental strain on drivers. Every 6km there is a cave to separate sections of the road. The lighting varies throughout the tunnel and caves to break the routine.

    Aurland Municipality

    Aurland municipality is perhaps one of the most visited municipalities in Norway. After all, it is home to the famous Flåm village as well as the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Nærøyfjord. The main industry in Aurland is agriculture, with goats’ cheese being an important product from here. Tourism is also a major industry. 

    Aurland

    It is worth driving into the village of Aurland. In many ways, it is more charming than Flåm. Aurland is home to Vangen Church, a historic stone church from 1202. The fact that it is built in stone and not wood signifies that the area must’ve been of importance around the time it was built. Aurland is also home to the Aurland Shoe Factory, where the pennyloafer was invented.

    Flåm

    Located at the end of the Aurlandfjord, a branch of the Sognefjord, Flåm is a gorgeous little village. Many people come to Flåm to do the Flåm Railway, regarded as the most beautiful train journey in the world. This train journey goes from Flåm through the valley and up the mountains to Myrdal, located close to the Hardangervidda National park. Myrdal is also where you board the train to Bergen or Oslo. Besides the train ride, there’s a gorgeous ferry journey from Flåm to Gudvangen. It takes you on the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Nærøyfjord – something you shouldn’t miss.

    Flåm has a population of 350, though on a summer day there will be several thousand people in the village. Seriously. The Flåm Railway has become incredibly popular – it’s sold out months in advance. Additionally, Flåm is becoming a major cruise port.

    Gudvangen

    Village

    Gudvangen is a small village with a population of around 120. It is a popular tourist destination due to its proximity at the end of the Nærøyfjord. The popular Gudvangen – Flåm cruise stops here, and many people also come to visit the Viking Village in Gudvangen. The Viking Village is a recreated village as Gudvangen is believed to have been an important trading place for the Vikings. 

    It is worth driving into Gudvangen (approx 5 mins off the E16) and stopping in front of the Nærøyfjord. The Nærøyfjord is the narrowest branch of the Sognefjord, only 250 metres at its narrowest and 12 metres at its shallowest. The fjord is 20km long. It is UNESCO World Heritage-listed as it is one of the best representations of what a fjord looks like.

    Stalheim Hotel & Stalheimskleiva

    Historic Hotel

    The site where the hotel is has been an important place for hundreds of years. When the Royal Postal Road between Oslo and Bergen was established in the 17th century, this hotel was where the postal workers would stop to rest. 

    The hotel as it is known today opened in 1885 with 10 rooms. The hotel burned down in 1900, 1902 and 1959. The current hotel building you see today is from after the 1959 fire. Today the hotel is a high-end historic hotel where many famous people have stayed. It also has arguably one of the best views of any hotel in Norway, but good luck trying to see it. They don’t allow visitors to come in and take pictures without paying or having coffee. 

    Stalheimskleiva is a 1.5km (1 mile) stretch of road that leads from Stalheim Hotel down to sea level towards the Nærøyfjord. It was one of the country’s first roads built according to the new road engineering requirements that came around 1850, the so-called chaussee, with a maximum gradient of 1:20. Around 1,000 men built the road over 7 years. The road was a motorway for cars going in both directions, which was of course dangerous. It was eventually replaced with the two tunnels you’ll be driving through. The road then became a one-way tourist road, however in 2020 part of the road was in danger of collapsing due to landslide. In 2021, the road closed for all motor vehicles for the foreseeable future. This is due to the poor condition of the road and the extensive damage done by traffic. The road is on the conservation plan, so it’s being repaired and may become a hiking trail instead. 

    Across from the Stalheim Hotel is an open-air museum with farmhouses collected from the area. There are also a number of hiking trails starting from around the hotel, so it could be a good option for spending the night. 

    Voss Municipality

    Voss municipality is an inland municipality with about 90% of the area mountains over 300m (1000ft) above sea level. Because of that, the municipality is a popular place for people from Bergen to go skiing. Voss is home to the largest ski resorts in Western Norway. The area has been settled for at least 3,000 years, with people coming here for the rich valleys, waters, and animal life. Voss was also largely an isolated municipality, meaning it has kept its own unique culture and traditions. 

    Oppheim Lake

    Lake

    After leaving Gudvangen, you will drive up the Nærøy Valley. This is part of the UNESCO World Heritage area. The stone they are mining here is anorthosite, a rare stone found in large amounts in this valley. The stone is typically used on the roads because it is reflective. 

    The drive through the valley is short; you will then take two tunnels to get up the mountain. However, before you get into the tunnels, you will see a red hotel and a hairpin-turn road on the hillside. 

    As you drive along the lake, you’ll drive through the village of Oppheim and past the Oppheim Church. 

    Vinje

    Village

    Vinje is a small village located at the junction of the E16 and the Rv13, which runs over the Vikafjellet mountains to Vik by the Sognefjord. This is a long but beautiful detour; the road does close in winter, though. In Vik you’ll find the Hopperstad Stave Church (one of Norway’s 28 remaining stave churches) as well as some other historic buildings. 

    Tvindefossen

    Waterfall

    It is worth stopping and taking some photos of Tvindefossen Waterfall. It will be clearly marked with signs as you approach it. The waterfall is 152m high and has two streams (tvinde=twin). In the late 1990s, the waterfall acquired a reputation for having special powers of reviving sexual potency, so it became common to see visitors from the U.S., Japan and Russia visiting and filling containers with water. 

    Voss

    If you are following the E16, you will take a bypass and not see Voss at all. It is possible to drive into Voss, park by the lake, and see some of the town. 

    Voss has a population of around 14,000 people. The town is known for its cultural traditions in folk music, art, handicrafts, and traditional foods. Voss sits on the shore of the lake Vangsvatnet.

    During World War II, the town was bombed by the Luftwaffe and almost all the buildings were destroyed. 

    In Voss it’s worth visiting Voss Church. According to legend, the people of Voss was forced to convert to Christianity by King Olav (later Saint Olav). A stone cross can be seen by the lake which is believed to have been erected by St. Olav himself. The church was built in 1277 and is one of the only buildings to survive World War II. 

    In Voss you can do the Voss gondola to the top of the mountain, where the open-air museum is. 

    Evanger

    Village

    Evanger has a well-preserved village centre that is believed to be one of the better-preserved villages in the area. Most of the wooden houses are from the late 19th/early 20th centuries. Evanger is known for its production of cured meat because the village is home to several companies that specialise in the production of traditional meats such as pinnekjøtt (dried, salted rib of lamb), cured lamb, and sausages. 

    Bolstadøyri

    Village

    Bolstadøyri is located at the end of the fjord. When the old postal road came through here, this is the point where the workers would leave their horses and take a boat to Bergen. This has always been an important meeting place for the courts as well as a trading post. 

    Vaksdal Municipality

    Vaksdal is a small industrial municipality in Western Norway. The coat-of-arms show three black shuttles for weaving. The shuttles were chosen to represent the textile industry of the municipality. The municipality is located alongside the fjord and is also very mountainous. 

    Dale

    Village

    Dale is a small industrial village with a population of around 1,100. The village was built around the Dale power planet and factory that were founded and constructed in the 1870s. The machines were brought over by boat from England – carding machines, spinning machines and 200 looms, as well as finishing and dyeing machines. When the factory was built, there was only a homestead here. However, by the end of the 19th century the factory had 500 employees and the village had 1,000 inhabitants. At its peak in the 1950s and 1960s, Dale had a population of 4,000. 

    Dale is where the Dale of Norway company is based. This is arguably Norway’s most famous textiles company. They make the sweaters for the Norwegian Olympics Team and are known for their classic patterns. There is an outlet store in Dale, if you wish to visit that. 

    Osterøy

    Island

    Soon you will reach the wider part of the Osterfjord, which you will follow for the journey into Bergen. Across the fjord is an island called Osterøy. Osterøy is the largest inland island in Norway at around 330km2. Around 8,000 people live on the island and it is largely an agricultural island. You’ll see the bridge to the island soon.

    Vaksdal

    Village

    Vaksdal is a small village located on the fjord. Like Dale, it is an industrial town. In the late 19th century, the Vaksdal Mølle (Mill) opened here, utilising the hydropower in the region. This is where flour would be made. At the time it was built, it was the largest mill in Northern Europe. 

    Bergen Municipality

    Welcome to Bergen! We are now on the outskirts of Bergen municipality. 

    Trengereid

    Village

    Trengereid is the next village you will pass on your way into Bergen. Like the other villages along the fjord, Trengereid was established in the late 19th century around a factory. The factory (Trengereid Fabrikker) specialised in ribbon and lace production. 

    In Trengereid you will see the round-a-bout that leads off to the Hardangerfjord and Hardanger Tourist Road. However, you have been driving from Oslo, so probably save that for a separate road-trip. 

    Arna

    Village

    Arna is one of Bergen’s eight districts and was incorporated into the city in 1972. Around 14,000 people live in Arna and are connected to the city centre of Bergen by the railway. The train between Bergen and Arna takes only 10 minutes as it cuts through the mountain Ulriken; the road follows the coastline and takes 30 minutes to get to the same place. 

    Bergen

    Welcome to Bergen! Bergen is Norway’s second-largest city and is regarded as the Capital of the Fjords. 

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Drive it Yourself: Oslo to Trondheim on the E6

    Drive it Yourself: Oslo to Trondheim on the E6

    The E6 is the longest road that runs through Norway. Starting in Svinesund, on the Swedish border, it goes all the way to Kirkenes on the Russian border, stretching 2,576km.

    The busiest stretch of road, and the part that we cover here, is the stretch between Oslo and Trondheim. The E6 also follows the old Pilgrims Road that went from Hallvard Cathedral in Oslo to Nidaros Cathedral in Trondheim, and you will see many historic places associated with the old pilgrim’s road.

    This guide will start at the part of the E6 shortly after Oslo Airport, when you cross into Eidsvoll County.

    In this article...

    Downloadable Version of This Guide

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    Downloadable Guide

    Oslo to Trondheim on the E6

    Oslo

    This drive begins just north of Oslo’s Gardermoen Airport, but you can learn more about Oslo via the travel guide below. 

    Eidsvoll Municipality

    The first municipality that you cross through after Oslo is Eidsvoll.

    The part ‘eid’ means “a road passing around a waterfall”, while ‘voll’ means “meadow” or “field”. The name therefore refers to the fact that people from the districts around the lake Mjøsa (you will see it later) were sailing down the river Vorma and people from Romerike were sailing up the river. They had to enter this area by passing the Sundfossen Waterfall. Because of this, the site has been an important meeting place long before the introduction of Christianity. The coat-of-arms depict a scale as a symbol of justice, representing the old court.

     

    Eidsvoll is mentioned in the Old Norse Sagas back to the 11th century. The sagas were a court and assembly for the eastern part of Norway mostly due to the lake and the river that served as a transport road. Historically the main industry was agriculture, despite the fact that there is a lot of clay in the soil.

    The town of Eidsvold in Queensland, Australia, and Eidsvold Township in Minnesota use the old spelling of the municipality. The current ‘Eidsvoll’ was adopted in Norway in 1918.

    Small Detour: Eidsvoll Town

    Eidsvoll is a historically important place in Norway. You must leave the E6 and take a small detour, but it is worth it. Eidsvoll Church is an old church from 1200 and is built in the Romanesque style. The church is located on the old Pilgrims Road and is one of the important stops along the way.

    Eidsvoll Verk (how it is written on Google Maps) refers to the smelt iron ore that King Christian IV of Denmark opened in 1624. He was relying on the excellent water power from the Andelva River. The smeltery was taken over by Kongsberg Silver Mines. Carsten Anker bought the works in 1794 and restored it, setting up the production of stoves and similar iron goods. He also took residence in Eidsvoll, building a manor house now known as Eidsvollsbygningen. The Eidsvoll Verk has closed, but the name still remains. The old mill can be seen in the town.

    In 1854, Eidsvoll became the end point for the first railroad line in Norway from Oslo.

    This is the site where the constitutional assembly met to draft and sign the Constitution of Norway on the 17th of May 1814. The building is considered to be one of Norway’s most important national monuments and the cradle of modern Norway. Today it is a museum. The home was lived in by Carsten Anker, owner of the iron works, lived here during the time when it was used to sign the constitution. He went bankrupt in 1822 and the ownership of the estate was transferred to British creditors. A group of private citizens led by Henrik Wergeland organised a fundraiser that allowed them to buy the building with the pavilion and surrounding garden. When the purchase was finalised, the group donated the property to the Norwegian estate.

    I will visit the building eventually and write a more detailed overview of it.

    Minnesund

    Minnesund is a small village on the southern tip of Lake Mjøsa at the place where the lake flows into the Vorma River. Minnesund is an old ferry pier and has always been important for travel and communications. 

    Lake Mjøsa

    Lake Mjøsa is the largest lake in Norway and the 35th largest in Europe. It is also Norway’s and Europe’s fourth-deepest lake with the greatest depth being 453 metres. Lake Mjøsa provides drinking water for up to 100,000 people.

    The area around the lake is one of the most fertile agricultural districts in Norway.

    The meaning of the word ‘Mjøsa’ is unknown.

    In summer the surface temperature averages between 13 and 16 degrees and up to 20 degrees deep in the Furnesfjorden. Parts of the lake freeze over in December. In January, almost all the lake is covered with ice and in particularly cold winters the entire lake can be covered with ice in February.

    Mjøsa is home to Norway’s largest inland fishery and is also one of the country’s most species-rich lakes. 21 fish species have been found in the lake, including perch, trout, pike and other species.

    The lake has also been an important transport and traffic artery, even when frozen. The lake is commonly mentioned in the Viking Sagas and the transport of goods on the lake was probably extensive and well organized in the Viking Age and Hamar’s heyday in the High Middle Ages. Salt, grain, iron, coffee, sugar and tobacco went north, while alcohol, glass, timber, ore, cheese, butter and grain went south. Steamships were launched on the lake in 1840 for better transport.

    Innlandet County

    You will now be driving through Innlandet County. 

    Stange Municipality

    Stange is the first municipality you will pass through in Innlandet county. There have been settlements here since well before the Viking Age. Because of the old transport route went along here, there has been trade and hospitality here since time immoral. Stange Church, with is in Stange village, is first mentioned in 1225 in Håkon Håkonssons saga. The current building is from 1250.

    Stange is one of the largest agricultural municipalities in Innlandet. Norway’s oldest agricultural school, Jønsberg High School, is located here. The high school teaches in nature management, agriculture, animal husbandry, forestry, and biology, as well as organic farming, mathematics and chemistry. The school was established in 1847. You will pass the school on your right shortly before going into Hamar.

    Espa

    Espa is a small village that saw fighting during World War II, when battles were fought between Norwegians and Germans to prevent the Germans from following the King as he fled Oslo. The Espa Servicesenter has become kind of (?) famous because it has sold a large number of buns in recent years, earning the nickname ‘bolle land’ . You can visit their website here: https://www.bolleland.no/

    Hamar Municipality

    Hamar municipality is named after the main town in the area – Hamar. We’ll cover Hamar next, but first lets talk about the coat-of-arms for the municipality. The coat-of-arms depict a Black Grouse sitting on top of a pine tree. The first version of this coat-of-arms was depicted in 1553

    Hamar

    Hamar is the first major town on the E6. It is also one of the major historic towns in Norway and was one of the powerful centres of Norway during the Viking and medieval times. 

    You can read our separate guide to Hamar below. 

    Ringsaker Municipality

    Ringsaker Municipality gets its name from the old Ringsaker Church. The coat-of-arms shows a moose; the image is taken from a pre-historic cave painting that has been found in the municipality. The area is mentioned in King Harald Hårfagres Saga as well as St. Olavs Saga when St. Olav was christening the area.

    Ringsaker is primarily an agricultural and lumbering region. 

    Brumunddal

    The town of Brumunddal (population 11,019) grew as a settlement with the establishment of the Dovre train line in 1894. The major industry in the town is agriculture and forestry. Close to Brumunddal is the Mjøsa Tower (Mjøstårnet), the world’s tallest wooden building. It is 18 floors and 85.4 metres high. 

    Rudshøgda

    Rudshøgda is best known as the childhood home of author, poet, playwright, songwriter and musician Alf Prøysen. Prøysenhuset is a cultural centre and museum honoring his memory. He wrote the very popular Mrs Pepperpot series of childrens books.

    Moelv

    The town of Moelv (population 4,459) was built around various mills that were utilising the power of the Moelva River. The largest industrial company here is Moelven Industrier, which is one of Scandinavia’s leading suppliers of building products.

    Rock carvings have been found in Moelv that can be traced back tot he Stone Age and are generally regarded as the best-preserved rock carvings in Norway. Additionally, the Ringsaker Church is located here. It was completed in the middle of the 12th century and is dedicated to St. Olav. 

    North of Moelv is Tovsteinsringen (The twelve-stone ring). This is an ancient stone circle that is often compared to Stonehenge (this one is much, much smaller). It is believed to have been the site of a burial ritual, likely for a wealthy, high-ranking person.

    Lillehammer Municipality

    Lillehammer Municipality is named after the major town of Lillehammer, your next detour. The name Lillehammer means “Little Hammer” and was developed as a new trading town on the Lake Mjøsa after Hamar, hence the name. The coat-of-arms depict a birkebeiner, a 12th-century civil war fighter, carrying a shield, who is skiing down a silver/white mountainside under a blue sky. The birkebieners carried the future King Haakon from Lillehammer to Rena on skis during the Civil War.

    There have been settlements here since the Iron Age and the market here was mentioned in Håkon Håkonssons saga in 1390. It was also believed to have a site for the Ting assembly. However, despite this history, Lillehammer was registered as a trading down in 1827.

    Lillehammer

    Lillehammer is the next major stop on the E6. There is so much to say about Lillehammer, so check out our separate travel guide page. 

    Øyer Municipality

    Øyer Municipality is the first municipality within the Gudbrandsdalen region. The coat-of-arms show a silver-coloured wooden ring on a green background. This is a type of ring that was historically made of wood and was used to fasten a tree trunk to a rope to haul it over the land. Similar devices were used all over Norway, but this shape was typical for the area.

    Øyer was one of the area’s most severely impacted by the Black Death in 1349-1350. It is believed that up to 75% of residents here died, and many of the farms were deserted until the late 17th century.

    Øyer is a farming and logging municipality, though recreation is increasingly through the ski centres.

    Tretten

    Tretten is a small village with a population of 860. In 2022, it made the news as the bridge that crosses the river completely collapsed. 

    Ringebu Municipality

    Ringebu municipality is located within the traditional Gudbrandsdalen region and has a population of 4,800. The largest and main settlement is the town of Ringebu. The coat-of-arms represents shows three flames, representing the three valleys and three parishes in the municipality.

    Ringebu

    Ringebu may be a small village, but it is home to Norway’s largest stave church. Read our travel guide below. 

    Sør-Fron Municipality

    Sør-Fron Municipality is a small municipality in the Gudbrandsdalen valley. The coat-of-arms show a white or silver club on a green background. The club is reminiscent of the club that Kolbein Sterke used in 1021 when King Olav Haraldsson met the people of Fron and Dale-Gudbrand at Hundorp. The meeting is depicted in the Norse Sagas.

    The most important industries here are agriculture, industrial factories, and tourism.

    The famous play Peer Gynt is staged annually at Lake Gålå in the mountains around Sør-Fron. It is believed that Peer Gynt is set in the area.

    Hundorp

    Hundorp is the administrative centre of the municipality. Historically, Hundorp is a very important place. It was the centre of the petty kingdom of the Gudbrand Valley and as such an important place in terms of religion and politics.

    All this took place at Dale-Gudbrand’s farm. Dale-Gudbrand is a famous historic figure from the 1100s. He is mentioned in multiple Norse sagas, but most famously in the story of Olav the Holy christianising Gudbrandsdalen. You can read the story here. The image above is a drawing of Olav christianising the farmers. 

    Around the farm are five large grave mounds, though sadly one of them was removed. The four remaining are between 23 and 32 metres (75ft and 105ft). Additionally, there’s a square ring of stones and the remains of a round ring of stones, indicating a possible worshipping site.

    Today it is a Pilgrim Centre. There is a small farm shop with local food products and souvenirs. You can also spend the night there if you wish. Click here to visit their website. 

    Harpefoss

    Harpefoss is a small town with a population of 335. The name comes from the railway development in 1896, when the railway station was named Harpefoss. People have lived here for centuries, though, and old names were Skurdal and Ryssland. Harpefoss is the name of the waterfall that separates two hamlets.

    During the railway development, Harpefoss Hotel was built. It is the only hotel left that is one of the original hotels from the railway development period that still stands. It is built in Swiss style with neo-Gothic features. It has long since been closed down as a hotel, and after a period as a country store, the house is now a residence.

    In Harpefoss you can stay in a historic farm! 

    The farm ‘Sygard Grytting’ has belonged to the same family since the 14th century. The current owner is the 16th generation since the year 1534. 

    It’s believed that as far back as Christianity goes, pilgrims would stay at the property on their way towards Nidaros in Trondheim. Because of these, there are unusual details in some of the buildings that are very similar to details found in monasteries. 

    You can stay in historic houses from the 17th century – the same houses the pilgrims stayed in – or buildings from the 19th century. 

    The property is still a working farm. 

    Agriculture specialises in sheep, grain, grass production and forestry. In ancient times, the operation was very versatile and the farm was self-sufficient in most things.

    Sødorp Church

    Sødorp Church is a wooden cruciform church from 1752. It’s believed the first church on the site was a stave church, but it was replaced in 1570 and no trace of it remains today. In 1752, the church was replaced once again with the church we have today.

    Originally the church stood in Sødorp, a small town just south of Vinstra – hence its name. However, Vinstra emerged as a major town in the early 20th century, and it was decided to move the church there. In 1910, the church was moved to its present location. 

    The 18th century church originally had a very high tower, but it was destroyed by wind in 1850. The church then got a stumpy small tower (click here for a photo of it). When it was moved to Vinstra, they made a new high tower for the church. You can see photos of the construction process here, here, and its completion here. 

    Much of the interior is from the 18th century, including the altarpiece, pulpit, choir arch, crucifix and relief figures. The soapstone baptismal font is from the Middle Ages, though.

    In the graveyard you’ll find a memorial stone to the real Peer Gynt. 

    Nord-Fron Municipality

    Nord-Fron is a small municipality with a population of around 5,600. It is home to Skåbu, a village located 870m above sea level. It is Norway’s highest situated rural area with a permanent settlement. The coat-of-arms depicts a Dole Gudbrandsddal horse; the area has a long tradition of horse breeding and is one of the main centres in Norway.

    Kvam

    Kvam is probably most famous for the battles that took place here during World War II. During the military campaign in Norway in 1940, Kvam was the scene of a battle between German and British forces. During the battle, the original Kvam Church (from 1776) was destroyed, along with 70 houses. There is a whole Wiki page to the battles, which you will find here. 

    By Kvam Church is the Peace Park, which is a memorial to the locals killed during World War II. There are also memorials on Stølane (Kvamsfjellet) where Russian soldiers were shot by Germans, and on Hillingen where three Norwegian soldiers lost their lives in a battle against German troops.

    Kvam has a British military cemetery. There is also a museum about World War II, the Gudbrandsdal War Memorial Collection, in town.

    Remember the battle at Otta in 1612 between Norwegian peasants and the Scots? Well, after the battle 134 Scottish prisoners were taken from Otta to Kvam. At Klomstadlåven, most were killed in a massacre. The barn building where they were kept before they were massacred, was destroyed during World War II.

    Kvam currently has a population of 762. Most of the industry has closed down in the last few years.

    Sel Municipality

    Sel’s coat-of-arms depicts a girl playing a trumpet. This represents the local legend about the Prillar-Guri, where in 1612 a Scottish army marched through on its way to Sweden. They were stopped by the farmers at the Battle of Kringen, and legend says that the farmers were made aware of the army’s arrival by a local girl with a trumpet.

    Sel is regarded as one of the more scenic and historically significant areas of the Gudbrandsdalen valley, which a large number of Norway’s heritage-listed farms being here.

    Otta

    In the higher part of the Gudbrandsdlaen valley is the town of Otta. It is the next major town after Lillehammer, and you can find out more via our travel guide. 

    Sel Church

    Sel Church is a historic wooden church dating back to 1742. It is not the first church on the site, though. It is believed that the first church here was a wooden stave church built in the 13th century. However, the church has since been rebuilt twice due to the older ones deteriorating.

    Sel

    Sel is a small village with a population of 437. Sel was the main town in the region until Otta was built up around the time the Dovrebanen was completed in the area.

    In Sigrid Undset’s novel about Kristin Lavransdatter, the protagonist grows up at Jørundgard, a medieval farm. The movie was filmed on the property too. Unfortunately the property is now closed to the public.

    Dovre Municipality

    You are starting to get higher into Norway now! Dovre municipality gives its name to the railway line but also the Dovrefjell National Park. The coat-of-arms depicts a muskox. The animal is not native to Norway, but in 1932 ten were released near Dovre. Besides muskox, wild reindeer and wolverines also live in the municipality.

    People have lived at Dovre for around 6,000 years. In the Stone Age, they were primarily hunters and fishermen. Approximately 2000 years ago, the first farms were developed. Dovre is mentioned in the Norse Sagas when King Olav travelled through the area, forcing the locals to either become Christian or suffer death.

    After leaving Dovre, the path becomes more mountainous. As this is located on the Pilgrims Road, many mountain stations were established on the road to accommodate those crossing the mountains to Trondheim.

    Dovre Village

    Dovre is the administrative centre of the municipality. Close to Dovre is Budsjord Pilegrimsgården – hotell Dovre, a historic mountain farm and accommodations for travellers on the Pilgrims Road. The property is mentioned in documents from the 1400s, while the 17 protected buildings are from between the 17th and 19th centuries.

    Dombås

    Dombås is the next major town that you pass through and it is also an important meeting point between east and west. You can read more about Dombås on our travel guide. 

    Fokstugu Fjellstue

    On your left you will pass one of the historic mountain accommodations. The first accommodations on the site were constructed around 1120 by King Øystein Magnusson, wo wanted the pilgrims to have places to stay on their journey. While the farm has been rebuilt multiple times since then, pilgrims heading to Trondheim have always stayed there.

    Today the property is a sheep farm, and it does open in the summer for travellers who want to spend the night there. The farm is run by the 11th generation of the same family who have owned it.

    Hjerkinn

    Hjerkinn is in the Dovrefjell mountains and is one of the driest places in the country, with only 222 millimetres (8.7 inches) in annual precipitation. The train station is an impressive looking building. The Hjerkinn Station is Dovrebanens highest station at 1,017 metres above sea level.

    Hjerkinn is an old rest station with traditions dating back to the 13th century, when pilgrims would travel through the area.

    Trøndelag County

    You now cross into Trøndelag county. 

    Oppdal Municipality

    Oppdal is the first municipality you drive through in Trøndelag. This is a mountainous municipality, with large parts of it in the Dovrefjell. Østfjella and Trollheimen mountains. This is represented in the coat-of-arms.

    125 years ago, Oppdal was a purely agricultural community where the people produced practically everything they needed themselves. Today agriculture is still a significant industry. The sheep industry in Oppdal is the largest in the country with 45,000 sheep here.

    Kongsvoll Mountain Lodge

    Kongsvoll is another historic mountain lodge. The original inn was built in the 12th century, while the oldest parts of the lodge date back to the 18th century.

    Nearby is the Kongsvoll Alpine Garden, run by Trondheim’s university. This is the only alpine botanical garden in Scandinavia.

    Oppdal

    Oppdal is a major town and the administrative centre for the municipality. 

    Rennebu Municipality

    Rennebu is a mostly mountainous municipality. The coat of arms shows the outline of the local church, Rennebu Church, which is one of the oldest churches in Norway based on a Y-shaped outline. The Trollheimen and Forollhogna National Parks lie in the municipality and the salmon river Orkla flows through it.

    Berkåk

    Berkåk is a small village with a population of around 959. The name comes from the word birch, referring to a prominent type of tree in the area. Every year in August, the Rennebumartnan is hosted in town. It is a sales exhibition for home improvement and handicrafts with around 20,000 visitors.

    Mitre Gauldal

    Mitre Gauldal is primarily an agricultural municipality. Every third person living here works in agriculture. Milk, poultry and eggs are produced here. The coat-of-arms shows a silver crossed Y figure on a green background. The crossed Y has several meanings. First, it symbolises the landscape which is based on the meeting of the two valleys here (Gauldal and Soknedal). The municipality also has a major Y-shaped road and railway junction. Lastly, the Budal Church, dating from 1745, is one of the oldest and few remaining Y-shaped churches in the country.

    Soknedal

    Soknedal is a small village located by the river Sokna.

    Støren

    Støren is the administrative centre of Mitre Gauldal municipality. It is located in the Gauldalen valley where the Gaula and Sokna rivers meet. The Dovrebanen and the Rørosbanen meet here as well.

    Melhus Municipality

    Melhus is the last municipality you pass through before Trondheim. Agriculture is important here, and the valleys are dominated by grain fields. The coat-of-arms symbolise a man called Einar Tambarskjelve, a famous chieftain and archer from Melhus in the 11th century. The entire area of Melhus was known during the Viking Age. It was the site of the first farm Rimul at which Jarl Haakon was killed by his slave, Tormod Kark. Archaeological excavations in the area have uncovered discoveries from the Viking Age. Additionally, 3,000 year old graves have been found.

    Melhus

    Melhus is the administrative centre of the municipality. Melhus is home to the Rimul farm, which is known from the Viking Age. It was the scene of the murder of Håkon Sigurdsson by his slave Tormod Kark, as described in the Saga of King Olav. The farm is still in operation today.

    Hakon had a mistress called Thora at the Rimul farm. Hakon and his slave were seeking shelter in hiding from Olav Tryggvason (founder of Trondheim) and his men, who were at the time searching for him. Thora led them to a pig sty beneath a great stone. Later, after killing the Earls son, Olav Tryggvason arrived at Rimul with a group of local farmers, now supporting him. The story continues in the Norse Sagas:

    Then Olaf held a speech out in the farm, he went up unto a great rock lying near the pig sty. Olaf spoke, and in his speech he said he would reward any man richly who could harm Hákon Earl. The Earl and Kark heard this speech. They had light where they lay. The Earl said: “Why are you so pale, yet sometimes black as dirt? It is not so that you wish to harm me?” “No,” says Kark. “We were born on the same night,” says the Earl. “Close will also our deaths be.”

    Lying in the pig sty at night, Kark killed Hakon. He brought the head to Olav, hoping to collect a reward. Unfortunately, Olav did not respect a slave murdering his own lord. Tormod Kark was himself decapitated. Both heads were put on stakes at Munkholmen for people to spit at.

    Trondheim Municipality

    You now cross into Trondheim municipality, the last municipality for the drive. 

    Trondheim

    You have made it to Trondheim, Norway’s third-largest city. You can read more about Trondheim via our travel guide below. 

    Continue the drive

    Mo i Rana to Trondheim on the E6

    Continue your drive along the E6 up to the Arctic Circle and Mo i Rana. 

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Drive it Yourself: Lakselv to Kirkenes on the E6

    Drive it Yourself: Lakselv to Kirkenes on the E6

    The E6 is the main highway that runs through Norway. The last stretch of it is between Lakselv and Kirkenes. Here, the landscape is unlike anything else in Norway: rocky, barren coastlines separating stretches of tundra. The Sami people have called this area home for thousands of years, while Norwegians and Kvens settled from the 19th century onwards.

    The highway follows the Finnish border for a large portion, and it’s even possible to take small detours into Finland. It’s actually quicker to get between the two towns by going through Finland, but for our purposes we will take the scenic route on the E6. 

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    The drive: Lakselv to Kirkenes on the E6

    Lakselv

    This drive begins in Lakselv, the largest settlement in Porsanger Municipality, with a population of around 2,200. The village is located at the end of the Porsangerfjord and the E6 passes through the village.

    Porsangmoen

    Porsangmoen is one of the major military camps in Northern Norway.

    The District Command for Finnmark was established at Skoganvarre (you’ll pass through it later) from the beginning of April 1945, however Skoganvarre turned out to not be suitable for a larger military camp. It was decided to move the camp to the area it is in now. Before 1945, there was very little military presence in the area.

    Porsangmoen has one of Norway’s largest shooting ranges at 207km2. It is used by all defence branches of the Norwegian military as well as for foreign departments who come to train on how to solve missions and survive in an Arctic winter environment.

    Porsangermoen is currently undergoing a major renovation including new barracks, a new sewerage treatment plant, new internal roads, and apartments for officers.

    In Norway, military service is compulsory for both men and women. They typically start at the age of 19 and do service for 12 months.

    Skoganvarre

    Skoganvarre is a small settlement (population: 54) located roughly halfway between Lakselv and Karasjok.The name is a Norwegianisation of the Northern Sami Shuvvanvarri (Whispering Mountain).

    The area has long been an important communication hub in Finnmark as a crossing point between Lakselv-Karasjok and Alta-Tana.

    In 1853, the state built a mountain lodge and then in 1870 a telegraph station. In 1924, the road connection was built.

    Karasjok

    Karasjok is the second-largest municipality in Norway in terms of size, with an area of 5,464km2. However, it has one of the lowest populations of any municipality, with the only settlement being Karasjok. The population density is 0.5 inhabitants per square kilometre (1.3/sq mi). Most of Karasjok’s population are Sami: approximately 80% of the population speak a Sami language as their first language.

    The important industries in Karasjok are reindeer husbandry and agriculture, as well as outdoor industries such as hunting and fishing.

    The coat-of-arms represent the meeting of three tribes: the Sami, Finns, and Norwegians. The symbol of fire was chosen because of its importance to the Sami people. The fire brings heat and therefore survival in the winter, but it is also a major threat, both in the tents and the large pine forests.

    Karasjok has the lowest measured temperature in Norway, -51.4C, measured in 1886. The highest temperature measured in Karasjok is 32.4C.

    Karasjok

    Karasjok is regarded as one of the main centres of Sami culture in Norway, and is an interesting little town for spending some time in. 

    Karasjok River

    Now you will follow the Karasjohka river along the Norwegian/Finnish border. The river is 161km (100 mi) long and runs through the area of Finnmark. It is one of the most important rivers that drains the Finnmarksvidda plateau and it flows into the famous salmon fishing Tana River.

    Váljohka

    Váljohka is a small village located where the Váljohka and Karasjohka rivers meet. The village has a small church, Valjok Church, that was built in 1932. The church seats about 60 people and is known for its bright red and blue colours inside. They took inspiration from the traditional colours of the gakti (the Sami costume). The church is not visible from the E6, but it is.a short detour off the highway. It is marked on the highway as “Váljohka kpl”

    Deanu-Tana Municipality

    Deanu (Northern Sami) or Tana (Norwegian) is the next municipality you will pass through. The Sami word can be translated as ‘great river’, referring to the Tana River. The population of the municipality is around 2,800, with the population currently declining.  

    The coat-of-arms represents riverboats that have been used in the area for centuries. The three boats symbolise the three ethnic groups here: Sami, Kven and Norwegian, and the colours mimic the red and yellow of the Norwegian coat-of-arms.

    A large number of people work in retail or hospitality (29%), while 23% of the population work in healthcare and the social sector. The most important economic resources are the farmland or forest area. The world’s northernmost dairy is Tine in Tana Bru, and it employs around 30 people.

    The municipality is located along the lower river basin of the Tana River. Most of the inhabitants are Sami people. The river has represented a mainstay of the local economy. It is one of Europe’s main salmon rivers, though no large-scale commercial fishing is done. Because of the river, the municipality has one of the most spectacular gatherings in Norway. As many as 25,000 goo-sanders can accumulate along the waterway system. There are also thousands of common eider and long-tailed duck who come to the river. Bears are rarely spotted in the municipality.

    Tana Bru

    This is the main village in Deanu-Tana. Tana Bru means ‘Tana Bridge’ in English and is named after the bridge that crosses the river to the village of Skiippagurra on the other side of the river.

    Skiippagurra

    On the other side of the bridge is a small village called Skiippagurra. It has a population of around 254 residents and is a historic trading place. This is where the E6 stops following the Tana River and continues across to Kirkenes.

    Nesseby Municipality

    Nesseby is a small municipality located at the isthmus between the Varangerfjord and the Tana River at the entrance to the Varanger pensinula. The population lives in small settlements along the fjord and the Varangerhalvøya National Park is partly located in the park. The municipality is known for its interesting birdlife and also its tundra with areas of bog and marsh.

    Today the municipality is known as Unjárga-Nesseby, reflecting the Sami community who live here. Nesseby was the second municipality in Norway to get a Sami name. Most of the inhabitants are Sami and Sami is being taught as the first language in schools. In historic times, reindeer used to cross this area as part of their annual migration. This led the Sami to coming into the area. The area between Skippagurra and Varangerbotn is full of archaeological finds from different periods.

    The coat-of-arms represents a cloudberry plant.

    The municipality is the birthplace of Isak Saba, the first Sami to be elected to the Norwegian parliament.

    Varangerbotn

    Varangerbotn is a small village that is the administrative centre of Nesseby. The population is around 341.

    In Varanger you can visit the Varanger Sami Museum, a museum for the history and culture of the Sami in Varangerbotn. The museum presents the Sea Sami history, Sami prehistory, and contemporary Sami culture.

    This is where the E6 and the E75 separate. The E75 continues onto the Varanger peninsula towards Vardø, while the E6 goes to Kirkenes. The roundabout in town marks the beginning the National Tourist Road for Varanger, one of Norway’s 18 national tourist roads. If you want to do the tourist road, it is the E75 towards Vardø.

    Varangerfjord

    For the rest of the drive, you will be driving alongside the Varangerfjord. This is Norway’s easternmost fjord, and it stretches approximately 100km (62 mi), emptying into the Barents Sea. It does not have the hallmarks of a fjord carved by glaciers, so is not technically a fjord. Still, it looks pretty fjord-like!

    The mouth is about 70km (43 mi) wide, located between the town of Vardø in the northwest and the village of Grense Jakobselv in the southeast.

    Around the fjord is many Kven (Finnish immigrants) and Sami.

    Nyelv

    Nyelv is a small community with a population of 30. There are two burial mounds from the Neolithic Age located near Nyelv.

    Sør-Varanger Municipality

    Sør-Varanger is the easternmost municipality in Norway. It is located alongside the borders of both Finland and Russia. Most of the inhabitants live in Kirkenes. Until 1826, the area was jointly taxed by Norway and Russia.

    Bugøyfjord

    Bugøyfjord is a small village along the Varangerfjord. It was a predominantly Sami community until the Kven people arrived in the 1860s. It was one of the first villages to be burned to the ground by Germans during the retreat in 2004.

    In the village is a memorial marker for John Savio, a famous artist from the area. He was born in 1902 in Bugøyfjord and was the first Sami person to have his own exhibition at the National Gallery. He mainly worked with woodcuts. He never had a major artistic breakthrough during his life, but after his death has been recognized as one of the grewatest Sami artists. He is also the only Sami artist to make a name for himself before World War II. He passed away in 1938.

    There is a small museum for him in Kirkenes. The John Savio Prize is awarded every two years to an artist with a Sami background who has distinguished themselves in the art field in Norway.

    Neiden

    Neiden is a small village with a population of around 250. The village is located by the Neiden River, which is famous for its salmon fishing. A large part of the population are Skolt Sami, which is the Orthodox Sami. In town is the Skolt Sami Museum from 2017, which is trying to preserve and present Skolt Sami culture. They also have an outdoor museum with preserved buildings from an old Skolt Sami settlement. It includes St. Georges Chapel, a Russian Orthodox chapel that was built in 1565.

    The Skolt Sami are a unique Sami group. They are more closely related to the Russians compared to the Finns or Norwegians and are regarded as a minority group amongst the Sami. They have been more severely impacted by land borders and country regulations than other Sami groups and are marked by high unemployment and low literacy rates. The Skolt Sami language is considered highly endangered and was only written down in 1992.

    There is a settlement called Neiden on the Norwegian and the Finnish side. The area used to be one settlement for the Skolt Sami, but when the borders were laid out in the 1850s they were separated. When the area was divided up, Neiden was forced to split across the countries.

    Neiden also has Neiden Chapel – built in 1902 as a Norwegian ‘dragestil’ (dragon style) church to symbolise the Norwegian state sovereignty in the area. It is a Lutheran church and is well worth seeing. The Norwegian government invited Norwegian settlers to the area, building the Lutheran church to counterbalance the Orthodox chapel.

    Since 1906, Norwegians have come in large numbers because of all the mining in the area.

    Garrison Sør-Varanger

    The garrison in Sør-Varanger is a military unit based at Høybuktmoen. The departments main task is to patrol and monitor the Norwegian-Russian border. The garrison consists mainly of conscripted soldiers, and there are 400 new conscripts every six months. They mostly tell tourists when they are wandering into Russia, but another goal is to monitor Russian activity on the border.

    Kirkenes

    The end point for the road is at Kirkenes, the easternmost town in Norway. 

  • Drive it Yourself: Bergen to Balestrand on the E39

    Drive it Yourself: Bergen to Balestrand on the E39

    This drive really grew out of boredom. I was tired of always doing the same road out of Bergen. Follow the E16 towards Oslo. Surely there’s more to Bergen than that!

    The area north of the city always felt like a mystery to me, and it was one I wanted to explore.

    Balestrand, on the other hand is a place I knew very well. I have met many travellers who have passed through Balestrand as an alternative to touristy Flåm, and they loved it. I was curious – what was Balestrand like? Was it was amazing as I was hearing?

    So off we go. Exploring the hidden north above Bergen before visiting one of the most popular fjord towns in the country. 

    This drive was a delight. It’s so diverse and so scenic. The best part is that it doesn’t get crowded with tourists. 

    Be sure to combine it with the Gaulafjellet Tourist Road. 

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    The drive: Bergen to Balestrand

    Bergen

    This drive begins in Bergen, the second-largest city in Norway. You can read our detailed guide to Bergen via the button below. 

    Nordhordland Bridge

    Bridge

    The bridge that we are going to cross first is the Nordhordland Bridge, a combined cable-stayed and pontoon bridge. It is 1.6km long. Plans have existed for the bridge since the 1960s, but it wasn’t funded until 1989. Construction started in 1991 and it opened in 1994. The bridge is the second-longest in Norway. 

    The floating section is a steel box girder bridge with ten pontoons, and it is like this because of the fjord’s depth. The fjord end of the main span is supported by a 30m (98ft) deep foundation, where the two bridges meet. It is the second pontoon bridge to be built in Norway. 

    The European Highway 39 is sometimes referred to as the coastal highway. It starts on the south coast of Norway, close to Kristiansand, and then follows the coast all the way up to Trondheim. There are many ferries along the road because the road practically hugs the coastline. 

    Alver Municipality

    Alver is a municipality just north of Bergen. Mongstad is Norway’s largest oil refinery, owned by Equinor and Shell, and is in the municipality. It is important to the business life here. Petrol, diesel oil, jet fuel and other products are produced at the factory and then sent abroad.  

    Knarvik

    Town

    The town we can see is Knarvik, the administrative centre of Alver. The E39 runs right through the middle of the village, cutting it into two. On the north is the Knarvik Senter, the largest shopping centre in the region. The southern part is older with its original buildings and shops. Knarvik has schools, a church, and an active community. The Knarvik upper secondary school is one of the county’s largest. 

    Before the 1970s, the community didn’t have more than 30 people in it. However, the council decided that Knarvik should be built up as a regional centre, and this caused the population to grow quickly. Because of this, Knarvik isn’t a very historic town, and the city centre does look a little 1970s. Now they are redoing the road, so it’s going to look like a messy construction site. 

    Masfjorden Municipality

    Masfjorden is a small municipality around the Masfjorden (a fjord). The entire municipality has a population of around 1,630 people. Masfjorden is an industrial municipality with construction, power, and water companies. There are large hydropower resrouces here because of the mountains and high rainfall. 

    Matre

    Town

    Matre is a small village with around 100 people living here. The Institute for Marine Research has a research station here. There is a fantastic museum here called the Bjørn West Museum, which shows the resistance struggle during World War II. 

    Gulen Municipality

    Gulen is a historic municipality. In historic times, the region was strategically located to both Hordaland (where Bergen is) and Sunnfjord (close to Ålesund). This was also the starting point for sailing into the Sognefjord. Finds from the Stone Age, Iron Age and Bronze Age indicate that this area has been used for thousands of years. 

    In Gulen was the Gulatinget, a place where chieftains and farmers from Western Norway gathered to settle legal disputes and pay homage to Norwegian hereditary kings. The ‘ting’ was established in 930 and the Gulating took place here for 400 years, when it was moved to Bergen. The kings, lords, and landowners met once a year and the hearing was governed by the appointed lawman. The Gulatinget is one of the most important institutions in older Norwegian history. The Gulating Act applied to most of Western Norway, the mountain areas of Valdres and Hallingdal, and the Faroe Islands and Shetland. The Gulating Act was considered one of the freest and most democratic laws in Europe 1,000 years ago. The laws in Norway today are based on the old Gulating laws. It is possible to visit the Gulatinget site today. 

    Gulen was important in the Christianisation of Western Norway. The first cross stood here before it was moved to the church Håkon Håkonsson built at Kyrkjehaugen. The areas importance eventually declined but remained an important agricultural area for the region. Gulen has many cultural relics from the Stone and Bronze Ages along the coast, and from the Viking Age around Eivindvik. There are also many old stone-built houses. 

    Otherwise, the municipality is important for agriculture and fishing. Fish farming is especially important to the community. The climate is like Bergen but snowier. 

    Oppedal - Lavik Ferry

    Ferry

    This is a short 20 minute ferry trip across the Sognefjord. 

    Høyanger Municipality

    Høyanger is part of the traditional region of Sogn, which surrounds the Sognefjord. Høyanger is known as having one of the first industrial towns in Norway. The steep mountains and rainfall were used for producing hydroelectricity needed for electrolysis. The main product produced here is aluminium. 

    The Sognefjord divides the municipality and is the fjord you will be following for the rest of the journey. The Sognefjord is Norway’s longest and deepest fjord, reaching 205km long and 1303m deep. The Sognefjord is the third-longest fjord in the world. 

    Aven

    Town

    Aven is a small village with around 15 people living here. The name comes from the word ‘vin’, which meant fertile plain in the Viking Age. There has been a settlement here for over 1,000 years but experienced depopulation after the Second World War. 

    Vadheim

    Town

    Vadheim is a small village with a population of around 238. 

    Høyanger

    Town

    Høyanger is a small settlement with around 1,983 people living there. It is an industrial town with an industrial park. The Høyanger Aluminium Works produces raw aluminium. There is also a car rim factory that supplies rims to the car factory Audi. 

    Sogndal Municipality

    Sogndal is a relatively new municipality; it was a merger between several different municipalities, including the old Balestand municipality. Sogndal is an old place and archaeological excavations show that people have been living here as far back as 700BC. Since ancient times, agriculture has been the most important trade. Fruit, especially apples, has been grown back as far as written sources.

    Sogndal emerged as an industrial community towards the end of the 19th century. There has been a matchstick factory here and later a wool mill and then a bottling plant for softdrinks and fruit juices. A hydroelectric plant was built here in 1911 and was one of the first ones to be built in rural Norway. 

    Balestrand

    Balestrand is the last stop on today’s drive and a perfect place to spend some time if you want to enjoy the fjords. Balestrand has been a well-known tourist spot since the end of the 1800s.

    Balestrand is home to Kviknes Hotel, a historic hotel from 1877. This hotel is where Kaiser Wilhelm II received the message about the outbreak of the First World War. The church has been owned by the Kvikne family ever since it opened. The hotel has 195 rooms.

    St. Olafs Church is a well-known wooden church from 1897. It is often known as the English church because one of the English tourists who visited in the 19th century, climbing pioneer Margaret Sophia Green, enjoyed the Norwegian mountains so much that she married the innkeeper of Kviknes Hotel, Knut Kvikne, and moved to the area. Sadly, she contracted tuberculosis and died in 1894. On her deathbed, she told her husband that she had a dream that an English church would be built in Balestrand.

    Knut Kvikne allocated a big plot of land close to the hotel and, with the generous help of monetary gifts from two American women, built the church. The church is designed to look like a stave church.

    Balestrand is also where you can visit an apple farm called Ciderhuset to go on a tour or buy some cider. There is also the Norwegian Reiselivsmuseum, or the Museum of Tourism in Norway, and the Sognefjord Aquarium. Tours on the fjord and to a nearby glacier can be organised from Balestrand.

  • Drive it Yourself: From the Lyngen Alps to Tromsø on the E6

    Drive it Yourself: From the Lyngen Alps to Tromsø on the E6

    The Lyngen Alps are described as the ‘Mecca’ for skiiers and hikers all over the world, with many dreaming of coming here just to make the most of the incredible downhill slopes. For those of us who aren’t here to ski, Lyngen is a gorgeous region perfect for a short vacation.

    We spent the night in the Lyngen region towards the end of our North Norwegian road-trip. For us, we chose it simply because it was roughly halfway between where we were (Hammerfest) and where we had to be (Tromsø). We found an adorable AirBNB overlooking the Alps and had a nice rest before finishing the drive.

    Most of this drive takes place on the E6, which also has the nickname ‘the Northern Lights Highway’ up here because of all the roadside stops perfect for viewing the lights. The E6 is the main highway running through Norway and while it is not the most scenic, it is the only way to get between places when you are this far north.

    Here’s an overview of what you can see along the way. 

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    The drive: From the Lyngen Alps to Tromsø on the E6

    The Lyngen Alps

    The Lyngen Alps are a scenic mountain range that stretch 90km (56 mi) along the Lyngen Peninsula, with the Lyngen fjord to the east and the Ullsfjorden to the west.

    The mountains are popular among extreme skiers, with the highest summit being 1,833m (6,014ft) tall. The mountains are also popular with climbers.

    Olderdalen

    Olderdalen is the main centre for the Kåfjord Municipality we are in. The population is around 301 and the town looks out to the Lyngen Alps. If you use ferries, it is only a 70km drive. However, if you follow the E6 it is around 180km. Agriculture and fishing are the main industries.

    Birtavarre

    Birtavarre is a small village with a population of around 215. The village was a former mining town with smelters. It was during the mining period that it took the name Birtavarre; before then, it was known as ‘Kåfjordbotn’ after the fjord. The name Birtavarre comes from the nearby mountain Pirttivaara, which is a Kven language name.

    Manndalen

    Manndalen is a small village with a population of just under 1000. Historically, Manndalen was where the ‘three tribes’ (Kven, Sami, Norwegian) all settled. People began to arrive from Finland in the 1700s and many locals today consider themselves descendants of these people. The area was also used as the summer grazing area for the reindeer herding Sami. Today Manndalen is a centre for the revitalisation of Sea Sami culture and language and now there is a Sami department in the kindergarten and a Sami language centre. The Riddu Riđđu festival is an annual Sami music and culture festival that takes place here.

    The town was destroyed during World War II, and the town was rebuilt with temporary houses. At Sandeng Cemetery near Løkvell is the urn of Jan Baalsrud, a famous World War II resistance hero. He became fond of Manndalen after all the help he received in his escape from the Germans on the way to Sweden. Many locals were active in hiding him, giving him good, and getting him across the border into Sweden.  

    Storfjord

    Storfjord is a municipality in the Troms County of Northern Norway. The name comes from the Storfjorden that runs through the area, while the coat-of-arms shows three poppies that are rotated around a meeting point which represents the meeting point of the three countries Norway, Sweden, and Finland.

    The first peoples to live here were the Sami people. In the 19th century settlers from Finland and Southern Norway began to establish themselves. Sami culture has survived in parts of the municipality. In the 19th century the Laestadianism religious movement obtained a strong position, and Skibotn is still a stronghold for this movement.

    The landscape of Storfjord is characterised by alpine mountains, and the highest mountain is Vassdalsfjellet (1587m), while the most ‘famous’ mountain is Otertind.

    Skibotn

    Skibotn is a small village with a population of 538 located at the end of the Lyngen fjord and close to Kilpisjarvi in Finland. The residents of the village are either descendants of the Sami and Kven people or the Norwegian immigrants who came in the 19th century.

    Historically, Skibotn was a meeting point and market for the different ethnic groups in the area. The market still takes place today and is named ‘Skibotn markedsplass’ if you want to visit.

    Skibotn is the place in Norway that has registered the clearest days and it is one of the driest places in Norway. Because of the lack of clouds, there is an astrophysical observatory located in Skibotn.

    Kilpisjarvi

    In Skibotn you’ll pass the E8, which takes you into Finland and the town of Kilpisjarvi. Kilpisjarvi is one of the best places to see the northern lights because of its clear skies. We cover Kilpisjarvi and that drive in a separate article. 

    Balsfjord Municipality

    Balsfjord is a municipality in the Troms County of Northern Norway. The coat-of-arms depicts a yellow plough on a red background, symbolising the importance of agriculture in the municipality. The plough also symbolises that the municipality is at the northernmost border on which grain can be grown in Norway. No other area in Troms has so much cultivated land. Agriculture is mostly based on milk and meat production and Balsfjord has the highest number of cattle, sheep, and goats among the municipalities in Troms. One of the dairies is the country’s largest goat cheese producer.

    The Sami people were the first people to inhabit the area, but around 1800 new settlers came from Finland and Southern Norway. Today, very few traces of Sami culture survive. From the 18th until the 20th century, trappers from Balsfjord were active in the Arctic, hunting in the areas around Greenland and Svalbard.

    The municipality was home to a religious group of ‘mindekirken’ or ‘freechurch dissenters’ who split from the state church in Tromsø. They were led by a seminary student, Johannes Andreas Johannessen and they established their own church, the Free Apostolic Christian Church, in Balsfjord. Bomstad and his followers were said to have protested against the Tromsø state church minister and Troms Bishop’s religious rulings, eventually leading to a riot in Tromsø. The state church members yelled at Bomstad and his dissenters to “go back to Kautokieno!”. In 1862, Bomstad led a group of colonists to America, arriving into Chicago. After that they went to the area of St. Peter, Minnesota, where they remained. Bomstad left St. Peter and became the founding father of Lake Lillian in Minnesota. After staking his original claim, Bomstad and the rest of the colonists arrived at Lake Lillian and built dugout shelters to live. Eventually they all had log cabins to live in.

    Close to Balsfjord Church are 6000-year-old rock carvings at Tennes.

    Tromsø Municipality

    Tromsø Municipality is a major centre in Northern Norway. The municipality is milder than most settlements on the same latitude dur to the effect of the westerlies reaching this far north as well as the North Atlantic Drift, a branch of the Guld Stream. The population of the entire municipality is around 71,000. A detailed overview of the city of Tromsø can be found on our travel guide. 

    Tromsø

    The final stop is in Tromsø, the largest city in Northern Norway. You can find a detailed guide to Tromsø on our travel guide page. 

    Where to Go From Here

    From Tromsø you can continue your drive south to Narvik or you can head into Finland towards Kilpisjarvi. 

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Drive it Yourself: Hammerfest to the Lyngen Alps

    Drive it Yourself: Hammerfest to the Lyngen Alps

    In this article...

    Downloadable Version of This Guide

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

    Online Guide

    Downloadable Guide

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    The Drive: Hammerfest to the Lyngen Alps

    Hammerfest

    This drive begins in Hammerfest, the northernmost city in the world. You can find a detailed overview to Honningsvåg via the link below. 

    Rypefjord

    Village

    Rypefjord is a village just outside Hammerfest. The village is considered more of a suburb of Hammerfest because of its proximity to the city. You’ll find a lot of industry here related to the LNG plant just off Hammerfest but also the fishing industry.

    Kvalsund Bridge

    Bridge

    The Kvalsund Bridge is a suspension bridge over the Kvalsundet strait, linking the mainland to the island of Kvaløya. The bridge is 741 metres (2,431 ft) long and has 11 spans. It is the northernmost suspension bridge in the world.

    Kvalsund

    Village

    Kvalsund is a small village and former municipality in Finnmark. It was its own municipality until 2020, when it was merged with Hammerfest. The name directly translates to the whale strait, refering to the whaling that used to take place in the area. The name of the island Kvaløya means ‘whale island’.

    The village used to be known as “Finnbyen”, referring to the Coastal Sami settlement in the area. Until a few hundred years ago, the Coast Sami culture was completely dominant in Kvalsund. Norwegian and Kven immigration soon made the area multicultural, and during the ‘Norwegianisation’ process of the late 19th/early 20th century, most of the culture was lost. One of the only villages to still have the Coastal Sami culture is Kokelv.

    Kvalsund is one of the areas in Finnmark county with the most cabins that are especially used by people from Hammerfest. There is good salmon fishing in the fjord and there are nice hiking trails in the area.

    Repparfjorden

    Fjord

    Repparfjorden is a fjord located southeast of the island Kvaløya, where Hammerfest is. The fjord is quite shallow with an average depth of 40-60 metres and a maximum depth of 123 metres. There are strong currents at the bottom of the fjord.

    Mining used to take place in this area for copper. The deposits were found around the year 1900 and between 1972 and 1978 Folldal Verk (the mine near Røros) ran the operations. More mining is planned in the area, but it is meeting protests by the local community.

    Skaidi

    Village

    Skaidi is a small village and major traffic hub in Northern Norway. In the 1940s, the Skaidi Mountain Lodge and Station was built. Today it’s an important point to stop if you need a rest on the long road journeys.

    Here you’ll find a petrol station, various electric car charging stations, a cafe and a hotel. 

    Savesalta

    Alpine Ski Resort

    Sarvesalta is an alpine ski resort overlooking the Altafjord and it is the major ski resort in the area. One of the popular places to stay is the Bjørnfjell Mountain Lodge, which focuses a lot on Norwegian farming and cabin culture.

    Alta Municipality

    Alta is the most populated municipality in Finnmark county, and its population has increased by 11.3% over the last decade. The coat-of-arms represent a white arrow point on a blue background, and it is derived from the findings of quartzite arrow points dating back to the late Stone Age found in the area. The quartzite was mined in the area and tools were made from it all over Northern Norway.

    Alta is most famous for its rock carvings, which are on the UNESCO World Heritage list. The carvings date from 4,200 BC to 500BC and were likely made by the Komsa culture, an early people in Northern Norway. These are Northern Europe’s largest number of petroglyphs and rock paintings made by a hunter-gatherer population.

    Alta is first mentioned in written sources around 1500, when it was inhabited by a couple hundred Sami people. The area was a common tax country for Denmark-Norway, Sweden, and Russia. Towards the end of the 16th century there were conflicts between Sweden and Denmark over the right to tax salmon fishing in the river. In 1613, it was decided that the area of Alta belonged to Denmark-Norway, and by this time Norwegians were settling along the Altafjord.

    Around 1700, the Kven population began to settle in the area. The Kven people came from Finland and were escaping war and famine. The Kvens brought with them grain cultivation and improved the river fishing methods. In 1826, copper mines were established, and miners came from Finland, Sweden and southern Norway to take part. Several of the miners later travelled onto the United States, but many stayed and combined farming with mining.

    During World War II, the German battleship Tirpitz was kept hidden in the Altafjord for 18 months. It was so badly damaged that it had to leave the fjord. It was towed to Tromsø, where it was eventually sunk by Allied forces. The town of Alta was destroyed by the Germans in 1944 and the only building that was not burned was Alta church.

    The main industries in Alta include trading, education, and public service. The town of Alta is known for its slate industry. Alta is also the starting point for the Finnmarksløpet, the longest dog sled race in Europe.

    Alta is the second northernmost city in the world and a good place to spend some time. I’ve written a detailed travel guide to Alta, which you’ll see below.

    Alta

    The E6 runs through the city of Alta. You can choose to spend the night here or stop at the UNESCO World Heritage Site where the rock carvings are. You can also drive straight through 🙂

    A detailed travel guide to Alta can be found below. 

    Kåfjorden

    Fjord

    Kåfjorden is an 8km (5 mi) long branch of the Altafjord. The fjord was used as the anchorage for the German battleship Tirpitz for much of World War II.

    Talvik

    Village

    Talvik is a small village on the western short of the Altafjord. It has been a trading centre since the 1800s and is the home of Talvik Church from 1883.

    Langfjordbotn

    Village

    Langfjordbotn is a small village located at the innermost point of the Langfjorden. The population is around 110 and the village is known for its excellent nature and in particular good conditions for growing potatoes and berries. There are five dairy farms, a school and community centre here. In summer people come to go hiking, while in winter people come to go skiing, snowmobile driving and dog sled racing.

    Kvænangen Municipality

    Kvænangen is a small but scenic municipality located in Finnmark. The municipality is located around the Kvænangen Fjord and over the Kvænangsfjellet Mountain Pass. The first part of the name refers to the Kven population that resided in the municipality, while the second part of the name comes from the Old Norse word angr meaning ‘fjord’. The population here was originally Sami, but the Kven people settled here about 300 years ago. Archaeological finds indicate people have lived here for 10,000 years.

    When the Kvens came in the 18th century, they took part in fishing, hunting and agriculture. Over time, the fisheries became an important industry and dried fish was exported to southern Norway and the rest of Europe. This attracted Norwegians, who gradually settled in the area. Today fish farming and tourism are the fastest growing industries.

    Alteidet

    Village

    Alteidet is a small coastal village located along the Lille Altafjord. The population is around 130 people and historically it was a trading post. Unfortunately the village was destroyed during World War II and wasn’t really rebuilt.

    Badderen

    Village

    Badderen is a small village with a population of around 180. Mining took place in this area throughout the 20th century; the mines were operated by the Alten Copper Works, led by the Englishman John Rice Crow. The old trading centre of Badderen became the centre for the mining operations, and an ore quay was established here.

    Sørstraumen

    Tidal Current

    Sørstraumen is the second-strongest current in Northern Europe, only beaten by Saltstraumen. We cross the bridge over the current while on the E6.

    Kvænangsfjellet

    Mountain range

    We now cross the Kvænangsfjellet mountain range. The E6 highway crosses the mountains over the mountain pass, which can close in winter in the case of snowstorms. The highest point of the road is 402m (1,319ft) and this is exposed to bad weather.

    The Kvænangsfjellet mountain area is mainly used by the Sami reindeer herders in the summer.

    Gildetun Inn

    Accommodation

    The inn on the side of the road is a well-known place for visitors to stay. It offers accommodation and meals during the tourist reason and has a nice vantage point. 7

    Nordreisa Municipality

    consists of the Reisadalen valley surrounded by mountains and high plateaus. The coat-of-arms depicts two white salmon because the Reisaelva River is one of the country’s best salmon rivers. The Reisa National Park is located in the southern part of the municipality.

    Most of the people who settled here were the Kven people from Finland, who came over in the 18th century escaping famine and war. Some inhabitants have Sami or Norwegian backgrounds.

    Most of the municipality was destroyed by retreating German troops.

    Storslett

    Village

    Storslett is the main centre for the municipality of Nordreisa. It has a small airport, schools and a local church. The town was destroyed during World War II in 1944. The village area has seen strong growth since the war.

    Rotsund

    Village

    Rotsund is a small village located along the Rotsundet strait. We are now in the northern Lyngen region, and the mountains are visible in the distance.

    Lyngen

    Mountain range

    The Lyngen Alps are a scenic mountain range that stretch 90km (56 mi) along the Lyngen Peninsula, with the Lyngen fjord to the east and the Ullsfjorden to the west.

    The mountains are popular among extreme skiers, with the highest summit being 1,833m (6,014ft) tall. The mountains are also popular with climbers.

    Where to Go From Here

    After Lyngen we continued on to Tromsø.

    This drive is part of the multi-day series “From Tromsø to North Cape and back again”. You can view the entire drive via the link below. 

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!