European Highways

  • Drive it Yourself: Kilpisjärvi to Kautokeino in Finnish Lapland & Finnmark

    Drive it Yourself: Kilpisjärvi to Kautokeino in Finnish Lapland & Finnmark

    In this article...

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    The drive: Kilpisjärvi to Kautokeino

    Kilpisjärvi

    This drive begins in Kilpisjärvi just south of the Finnish/Norwegian border. We had left from Tromso early in the morning. You can read more about Kilpisjärvi via the travel guide below.      

    Enontekiö Municipality

    The municipality of Enontekiö has a population of approximately 1,800 people. It is in the outermost northwest part of the country and is between Norway and Sweden. Finland’s highest point, the Halti fell, with a height of 1,324m (4,344ft) is in the municipality. This is the only municipality in Finland that includes part of the Scandinavian mountains.

    The first human settlement dates to after the last Ice Age. The oldest traces of settlement can be found along the Ounasjärvi Lake and are dated to around 6,000BC. The Sami population used this area as part of their reindeer migration, but there were no permanent settlements until Christianity came to the region. The first church was built here by the Swedes in the 16th century. It was a small wooden building in the village of Rounala and it became a central meeting point where the Sami people gathered for religious ceremonies, where travelling merchants sold their wares, and where the Swedish officials held judicial courts.

    Since the end of the 17th century, the reindeer Sami culture spread from Norwegian and Swedish Lapland to Enontekiö. The reindeer Sami had a nomadic way of life and moved with their animals. Enontekiö’s last nomads didn’t settle down until the 1960s. The culture of the reindeer is still preserved, though. The first Finnish people settled in the area in the 17th century, and due to Finnish immigration and assimilation, a Finnish majority developed in the area.

    During the Continuation War, where Finland allied with Germany in fighting against the Soviet Union, Enontekiö was part of the operational part of the region Wehrmacht. When Finland concluded the Moscow Armistice with the Soviet Union on 4 September 1944, the German troops were expelled. The Finnish-German Lapland War broke out. As the Germans left, they enacted the scorched earth tactic and devastated Enontekiö. The last Wehrmact soldiers left on 27 April.

    The vegetation is very meagre, due to the extreme northern latitude. The northern border of the natural geographic range of spruce matches the southern border of the municipality. The range of pine ends 20km (12 mi) north of the main village Hetta. Birch trees do grow in the municipality. About 70% of the municipality is under conservation protection.

    Due to the harsh climate conditions, there are many animals unknown to the south of Finland. This includes the Norwegian lemming, Arctic fox, snowy owl, Eurasian dotterel, ptarmigan, and ring ouzel. There are lots of small mammals and bird species.

    Enontekiö is part of the native settlement area for the Sami, but only 9.2% of the population speak Sami.

    The main industries here are tourism and reindeer husbandry.

    Järämä Fortification Area

    Historic Fortress

    Järämä is a restored section of the Sturmbock-Stellung fortification that was built by the Nazis between 1942 and 1944 with the purpose of protecting the Arctic Ocean. You can see restored bunkers, trenches and an exhibition about the history of the building.

    In the summer, the museum is open from 11am to 6pm. Click here to visit their website. 

    Karesuvanto

    Village

    Karesuvanto is a small village across from the Swedish border along the Muonio River. The neighbouring village Karesuando is located on the other side of the river in Sweden. According to Finnish tradition they are both considered parts of the same locality, although officially a national border bisects them. The sides are linked by a road bridge built in 1980. The area is traditionally Finnish and Sami speaking. After the Finnish War in 1809, the border was drawn for politically reasons, not for cultural ones. The first buildings were built here in 1670 and were primarily religious buildings to try and convert the Sami people to Christianity.

    In the village you’ll find a petrol station with cafe, souvenir shop, and some hotels. 

    Palojoensuu

    Village

    Palojoensuu is a small village located on the Muonio River. It has a population of around 100 people.

    Enontekiö

    Village

    Enontekiö is a village where we turn off to Kautokeino. Enontekiö is the name of the municipality, while Hetta is the technical name of this town. However, you will often see this town using the municipality name instead. Enontekiö Airport is located just outside the town but doesn’t have regularly scheduled flights. The village is a popular place for cross country skiers, ice fishing, snowmobiling, and husky sledding. The local company, Hetta Huskies, won a Gold Award in the World Responsible Tourism Awards in 2015. It is also possible to visit traditional reindeer farms here.

    Crossing the Norwegian Border

    Border

    Crossing into Norway is very easy – you basically just drive right on over. Sometimes you may be stopped for a random customs check, but it doesn’t happen very often.

    Kautokeino Municipality

    Kautokeino (North Sami name: Guovdageaidnu) is one of the two cultural centres of the Northern Sapmi people (the other is Karasjok). The coat-of-arms represents a lavvu, which is still in use by the reindeer herders who follow their herds according to the season. 90% of the population are Sami speaking.

    In 1852 Kautokeino was the site of a Sami uprising against representatives of the Norwegian authorities. This was one of few violent reactions by the Sami against the exploitation policies of the Norwegian government and is the only known confrontation between Samis and Norwegians with loss of human lives.

    Kautokeino is different from other municipalities in Finnmark because more than 50% of the population is younger than 30 years old. This is due to the number of schools in the area. For example, the Sámi Joatkkaskuvla ja Boazodoalloskuvla is the Sami High School and Reindeer Herding School. Most teachers speak Sami and allow for classes to be taught in Sami. In addition to regular classes, students can study duodji (Sami handicrafts) and reindeer herding. It is the only school in the world that offers a reindeer herding class. Sámi allaskuvla is the Sami University College that has national responsibility for Sami higher education. The Nordic Sami Institute is a Sami research institution that focuses on the Sami language, culture, reindeer husbandry and legal research.

    The main industries are reindeer herding, the theatre/film industry, and the public education system. The Beaivváš Sámi Theatre is the national Sami theatre and plays a role in making Sami history and culture visible. One of the most famous people from Kautokeino is Nils Gaup, a film director known for Pathfinder and The Kautokeino Rebellion.

    Kautokeino is known as one of the coldest places in the Nordics. It has a subarctic climate, and the all-time low was -50C (-59F) and was recorded in 1999. The all-time high was 30C (86F) and was recorded in July 2018. This is because Kautokeino is in the Arctic highlands of the Finmarksvidda Plateau. Kautokeino has some of the lowest rainfall averages in all of Norway. During summer, the daytime temperatures average between 10C (50F) and 20C (68F). The temperature and 10,000 lakes make it a haven for mosquitos, so humans and reindeer tend to flee to the coast for the summer.

    Kautokeino

    Here we are in Kautokeino. You can find a detailed overview of Kautokeino over on the travel guide page. 

    Where to Go From Here

    After a stay in Kautokeino, we continued our drive north through the Alta canyon and down to Alta before heading onto the Havøysund Tourist Road. 

    This drive is part of the multi-day series “From Tromsø to North Cape and back again”. You can view the entire drive via the link below. 

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Drive it Yourself: Flåm to Bergen on the E16

    Drive it Yourself: Flåm to Bergen on the E16

    The E16 (European Highway 16) is the main highway that runs between Bergen and Oslo. The stretch of the E16 that you are likely to do is the part between Bergen and Flåm. It’s a fairly easy drive – just 2.5 hours – and you pass through some incredible scenery (and lots of tunnels).

    While there aren’t too many places to stop at, it is likely you are doing this drive to get from A to B. Here’s an overview of what you see along the way. 

    In this article...

    Download this Guide

    All of our guides can be downloaded via our online store. 

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

     

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    The drive: Flåm to Bergen

    Flåm

    This drive begins in Flåm. You can find a detailed guide to Flåm below. 

    Undredal

    Village

    Undredal is a small village located along the Aurlandsfjord. It is famous for its goats cheese production and tiny stave church. It is about a 20 minute drive from the E16. 

    Gudvangen

    Village

    Gudvangen is a small village with a population of around 120. It is a popular tourist destination due to its proximity at the end of the Nærøyfjord. The popular Gudvangen – Flåm cruise stops here, and many people also come to visit the Viking Village in Gudvangen.

    Nærøydalen

    Natural Attraction

    The Nærøydalen is a valley that runs from Stalheim near Voss down to Gudvangen. The Nærøydalen River runs through the valley and empties into the Nærøyfjord. The entire area is listed on the UNESCO World Heritage List because it is one of the best examples of a fjord system in the world.

    The valley is rich in a mineral called anorthosite, which is mined in the area. Because it is reflective, it is primarily used on the roads.

    Stalheim Hotel

    Hotel

    Straight ahead we can see the Stalheim Hotel (red building on the hill). The hotel first opened in 1885 on the historic postal route between Oslo and Bergen. A lodging had been here long before then, and it was a place where the travellers could get food and supplies for themselves and their horses.

    The hotel has been rebuilt a couple times due to fire. The current building is from 1960 and has 124 rooms for 218 guests. It is a lovely hotel to stay at and provides the best views over the valley. Across the street from the hotel is an open-air museum that explains the history of farming and life high in the mountains.

    You pass the turn-off to the hotel after going through two tunnels. 

    Tvindefossen

    Natural Attraction

    Tvindefossen is a popular waterfall in Norway. It is 116m (381ft) high and is famous for its beauty – it was painted in 1830 by Johan Christian Dahl. In the late 1990s, the waterfall got a reputation for rejuvenation and revival of sexual potency, and that made it one of the most visited waterfalls in Norway. Over 200,000 people visit the waterfall every year.

    Voss

    Voss has a population of around 15,000 people and is a key town between the fjords of Norway. The town is known today for its wide variety of adventure sports, and many come here to hike, kayak, paraglide, and ski. The E16 doesn’t run through Voss, but rather cuts through via a tunnel.

    Evanger

    Village

    Evanger is a small village that has some well-preserved wooden houses and a classic 19th century church. There is also a sausage factory and some other small industries in the village.

    Dale

    Village

    Dale is a small town with a population of around 1,139. The town is a well-known industrial site that was built around the Dale Power Plant. The factory for Dale of Norway, a famous knitwear brand, is located here. Dale of Norway was founded by Peter Jebsen in 1879 when he discovered the rivers large source of power. The machines for the knitwear came from England.

    When the factory was built, there was one farm here, but within 20 years the population grew to 1000 employees. Most people in the village still work at Dale of Norway. The factory has an outlet store that you can visit.

    Osterøy

    Island

    We are driving along the 27km (17 mi) long Osterfjord. On the other side of the fjord is the island of Osterøy. The island is 328km (127 sq mi), making it the largest inland island in Norway.

    Vaksdal

    Town

    Vaksdal is a small town loaded along the Osterfjord. The main building in the town is the Vaksdal Mill, a historic mill used to make flour. 20% of the population work in the local industry, while 26% of the population commute to Bergen.

    Bergen

    You have made it to Bergen! You can read about Bergen in detail on the Bergen Travel Guide page. 

    Previous Drive

    The Hardangervidda Tourist Road

    Take the very scenic drive from Eidfjord to Flåm via the Hardangervidda Plateau and Aurlandsdalen valley. 

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Drive it Yourself: E6 from Mo i Rana to Trondheim

    Drive it Yourself: E6 from Mo i Rana to Trondheim

    The E6 (European Highway 6) is the main highway that runs through Norway. This section, from Mo i Rana to Trondheim, runs primarily through the county of Trøndelag. While not as dramatic as some other stretches of road on the E6, it’s the way between central Norway and Northern Norway, and there are some nice places to stop along the way. 

    You’ll probably use this road if you are looking to get to Northern Norway quickly. Sure, the coastal road is much more scenic, but the E6 is much quicker. There are some beautiful spots to stop at along the way, which I’ve done my best to highlight below. 

    In this article...

    Downloadable Version of This Guide

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

    Online Guide

    Downloadable Guide

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    The E6 Between Mo i Rana & Trondheim

    Mo i Rana

    This drive begins in Mo i Rana. You can find a detailed overview of Mo i Rana on our travel guide. 

    Hemnes Municipality

    Hemnes Municipality is located in Nordland County . The municipality focuses on agriculture, power production, the mechanical industry, wood products and boat building. The coat of arms represents this industry with a boat clamp in gold against a blue backdrop.

    Hemnes has the oldest operating local radio network in Norway, called Radio Korgen, which was established in 1982.

    Finneidfjord

    Village

    Finneidfjord is a small settlement. The name comes from its Sami heritage; Finniedt was a Sami farm first mentioned in 1567. The settlement saw growth starting in 1925 with the establishment of a margarine factory. The margarine factory was very well-known in Norway until it was bought out and closed in 1973. A caviar factory was built on the same site and operated until 2007, when it closed down.

    Bjerka

    Town

    Bjerka is a small town located at the mouth of the river Røssåga. One of the main employers in town is the slaughterhouse, which slaughters cattle, pugs and sheep producing dry beef and pork ribs. Since 2008, it has been the only slaughterhouse in Nordland County. About 90 employees work here.  

    Korgen

    Town

    Korgen is the main town for Hemnes municipality. Many Norwegians have heard of Korgen because of the Korgenfjellet mountain range, which is perfect for skiing. Because of that, the town is quite popular for people staying for a few days to take advantage of the mountains. The tallest mountain in Northern Norway, Oksskolten, is located here. Korgen is also close to the Okstindan Nature and Culture Park.

    The Okstindan Nature and Culture Park is a centre full of hiking trails, ski trails, and history. It includes the “Blood Trail”, which chronicles the Nazi’s attempt to construct a railway to Narvik and the Soviet POWs tasked with building the railway. There are also glaciers and caves to explore.

    You can easily spend a few days here if you love the outdoors. Visit the park website for more detailed information about what you can see and do. https://visitokstindan.com/en/kategori/the-okstindan-nature-and-cultural-park/

    Sandnessjøen

    Sandnessjøen is a charming little town located on the Hegleland Coastal Road (one of Norway’s 18 National Tourist Roads). It’s a lovely place to visit, but the detour can be a little lengthy. It takes about 45 minutes to get there from the E6, but you’d want to spend a little time in the area driving around to see the Seven Sisters and surrounding region.

    You can learn about Sandnessjøen by reading my travel guide (to the left). 

    Vefsn Municipality

    Vefsn is a municipality with arguably the best coat-of-arms in Norway – a surprised chicken! The name Vefsn comes from the river Vefsna, which flows through the municipality into the Vefsnfjorden. The meaning of the name is unknown.

    The main town centre for Vefsn is Mosjøen, a town a highly recommend visiting on this drive. The landscape is dominated by spruce forests, mountains, lakes, agriculture, and the river.

    This area is very old; there are traces of settlement in Vefsn back to the Stone Age. Among other things, Norway’s oldest skis have been found in Drevja. Vefsn also appears in the story of how Torolv Kveldulvsson demanded the ‘Finn treasure’ in Egils saga, and the road where this supposedly took place is now called “Toraveien”.

    Mosjøen

    Mosjøen is an adorable small town located on the Helgeland coast, and I highly recommend visiting here. It is, in fact, the oldest town in Helgeland (the name of the traditional region in) and the second-oldest town in Nordland County after Bodø. Mosjøen was declared a trading place in 1875 and has historically been an important industrial and transportation town. Many of the original wooden buildings are still standing today, making it a charming town to go walking through.

    Grane Municipality

    Grane (Sami name: Gaala) is a small municipality within Nordland County. It is located in the southernmost part of Nordland County, and it links Nordland with the next county, Trøndelag. The main town for Grane is Trofors, which we’ll drive through.

    The name Grane comes from an old farm that used to be here. The farm is known from the Middle Ages, but it rose to prominence in the 17th century. The main industries here are agriculture, forestry, and some reindeer husbandry. Grane is one of the southernmost settlements of the Sami people, and about 10 reindeer husbandry units operate here.

    Laksforsen

    Cafe

    Soon after the Grane municipality sign is Laksforsen, a rest stop and cafe. It is located by a waterfall and has lovely views out to Vefsna river. 

    You can visit their website here. 

    Vefsna River

    River

    The Vefsna River (Sami name: Vaapstenjeanoe) is the largest river in Nordland County – about 163km (101 mi) long. The river flows north, not far from the Swedish border. At Mosjøen, the river empties into the Vefsnfjord.

    Historically Vefsna was known for its salmon, but due to a parasite the salmon population have declined. So, while salmon fishing can’t be done here anymore, it is still possible to fish for trout and char. A fishing licence is required to fish here.

    Brønnøysund

    Trofors is located at the junction between the E6 and Highway 73, which runs between Brønnøysund and Sweden. Both are about 40 minutes from this junction, and each is a great detour.

    I’ve covered Brønnøysund at the travel guide section. 

    Trofors

    Village

    Trofors (Sami name: Trovvegarse) is the main centre for Grane. It is located at the main junction between the European Highway 6 and the Norwegian National Road 73, which runs between Brønnøysund and Tårnaby in Sweden. The town is primarily an agricultural town, but there are over 2,000 fishing lakes here too, making it great for fishing.

    Majavatn

    Village

    Majavatn (Sami name: Maajehjaevrie) is a small village at the bottom of Grane municipality. It has a substaintial Sami settlement who work with reindeer husbandry. Majavatn is also known from World War II. There were confrontations between the Germans and the Norwegian citizens at a nearby farm, and many of the Norwegians involved were later executed by Germans at Falstad concentration camp in 1942.

    Crossing into Trøndelag

    County Border

    As you leave Nordland County there is a fun sign over the highway with ‘Trøndelag’ on the side we are going and ‘Nord Norge’ on the opposite side, signifying the boundary between Trøndelag County and Norland County. There is a carpark by the sign so you can take some photos, and there’s also a rest area.

    Trøndelag Municipality

    We have now crossed into Trøndelag County, which is in the central part of Norway. A person from Trøndelag is known as a trønder, which the dialect here is called trøndersk.

    People have lived in Trøndelag for thousands of years, and during the Iron Age Trøndelag was divided into several petty kingdoms, each with their own common law and all sharing the parliament or thing called Frostating. This is sometimes regarded as the first real democracy.

    Trøndelag was well-known during the Viking Age, and many of Norway’s most famous Vikings lived here. Before the capital was moved to Bergen in 1214, Trøndelag was the site of many of the famous palaces and residences of the Kings. When Bergen (and eventually Oslo) became the capital, Trøndelag’s importance in Norway declined. Today Trøndelag is known for its well-preserved Viking history and the Nidaros Cathedral, located in Trondheim.

    The proximity to Sweden has led to conflicts over the years. Trøndelag was briefly ceded to Sweden in 1658 in the Treaty of Roskilde. It was returned to Denmark-Norway after the Treaty of Copenhagen in 1660. Another attempt was made in 1718 by the Swedes to take Trøndelag, but they were not successful.

    Trøndelag has a diverse climate and geography. Along the coast are the largest islands in Norway south of the Arctic Circle. The south-western part of Trøndelag is separated from Norway by large mountain ranges, especially the Dovrefjell and Trollheimen Mountain Ranges. Closer to the Swedish border the land flattens into a high valley, where Røros is located. In the north, there are several large valleys and flatlands. The rivers in Trøndelag are among the best salmon rivers in Eruope.

    The climate varies dramatically depending on where in the county you are. Closer to the sea has a oceanic climate with mild, wet winters, while closer to the Swedish border are some of the lowest temperatures in Norway during winter. Røros, for example, is the only place in south-central Norway to have recorded -50C (-58F). Most of the lowland areas have a humid continental climate, while the inland valleys, hills and highlands have a boreal climate.

    Trøndelag is primarily an agricultural region, with some of the most fertile land in Norway. Most of the production is meat and milk. Other traditional industries are forestry, mining, and fishing. Today Trøndelag has significant hydropower and wind power companies that support power-intensive industries such as the various timber mills. Aquaculture countes for half of Trøndelag’s export value. The oil and gas industry is also significant. Trondheim is a centre for higher education and has the largest educational institution at the country’s largest university, NTNU.

    The region is known for its moonshine homebrew, known as heimbrent. It is officially banned, but the art of producing moonshine has a strong following in parts of Trøndelag. Traditionally the spirit is served mixed with coffee to create a drink called karsk. The official dish is sodd, made from diced sheep or beef meat and meatballs in boiled stock. The Norwegian Grey Troender sheep is an endangered breed of domesticated sheep originally from Trøndelag. There are approximately 50 sheep left, and efforts are being made to revive the breed.

    Nammskogan Municipality

    We are currently in the upper part of the Namdalen valley, and the municipality takes its name from this. The municipality is heavily forested with several large lakes and the river Namsen running through it.

    Namdalen (Sami name: Nååmesjevuemie) is also the name of the traditional district here. There are three towns here: Namsos, Rørvik and Kolvereid. The rest are small villages and settlements. The river Namsen is one of the best salmon rivers in Europe (only the Tana River in Finnmark has a larger catch of salmon). Agriculture and forestry are also, understandable, important to Namdalen. Norway spruce is the main tree species.

    Namsen River

    River

    The Namsen River (Sami name: Nååmesje) is one of the longest rivers in Trøndelag – around 228km (142 mi) long. It has traditionally been used for floating timber down from the forests to the town of Namsos, where the sawmills were located. The river begins in springs in the Børgefjell National Park and travels through the valley, ending at the coast in Namsos. It is considered one fo the best Atlantic Salmon fishing rivers in the world and is often called the ’Queen of Rivers’. Catching salmon that weigh 23kg (51lb) is not unusual.

    Børgefjellet National Park

    National Park (Detour)

    Børgefjellet National Park is a scenic off-the-beaten path national park with high mountains, rivers, and mountain lakes. The landscape has remnants of Sami domestic reindeer herding, which continues still today. It is a place to go fishing or take some lovely hikes. It is a largely undeveloped area with virtually no construction activity. If you do want to spend some time here, you need to be aware of where you are and camp in the area. The park is located in the centre of Norway along the Swedish border and is also home to the Scandinavian Mountain range.

    Brekkvasselv

    Village

    Brekkvasselv is a tiny village in Namsdalen. The village is also known as Ælva, and a person from Brekkvasselv is known as an Ælving. The first peoples settled here in the 20th century, coming from other places in Norway. However, the Sami have been here for thousands of years, and reindeer herding took place in the highlands.

    The people who came here in the 20th century came because they were helping with the construction of the Nordlandsbanen, and if they settled here they were offered free plots of land to build on.

    Grong Municipality

    Grong (Sami name: Kråangke) is a municipality in Trøndelag with Medjå being the main town. The name comes from an old farm, and the first element is an Old Norse word for spruce. This is also represented on the coat-of-arms; the three spruce trees represent the three main villages in the municipality.

    One of the main waterfalls here is Fiskumfoss, an economically important waterfall that is used for power production. There is also a salmon ladder here. A salmon aquarium has been built by the waterfall, where you can sit and eat salmon while watching the waterfall. The building also has the Norwegian Sport Fishing History Museum. Burial mounds are also found throughout the area from the older Iron Age, and there are ancient moose hunting grounds, house foundations, and roads.

    Medjå/Grong

    Village

    We are passing the village of Medjå, which is sometimes called Grong. It is a small village with a petrol station and supermarket.

    Snåsa Municipality

    Snåsa (South Sami: Snåase) is a small but important municipality: it is one of the last strongholds of the seriously endangered Southern Sami language. In Snåsa you’ll find the Saemien Sijte, which is the national museum of South Sami history and culture. The goal of the museum is to strengthen South Sami identity and a sense of community. Next to the museum is a primary school that teaches the South Sami language.

    The coat-of-arms represents a yellow Lady Slipper orchid on a blue background. At least 15 species of orchid have been found growing in Snåsa, and they are known as some of the magnificent orchids in Scandinavia.

    Snåsavatnet / Snåsa Lake

    Lake

    The lake we see straight ahead is Snåsavatnet, the sixth-largest lake in Norway at 122km2 (47 sq mi). The lake reaches depths of up to 186m (610ft) and was made by glacial erosion.

    Egge

    Historic Site (Detour)

    We are passing the exit to Egge. Egge is a known Viking town, and it was home to the powerful chieftains who gathered the peasants to fight against Olav Haraldsson in the Battle of Stiklestad in 1030.

    The museum has a reconstructed manor and fun activities for kids. For the adults, the cultural landscape is preserved and there are a number of hiking trails you can take to enjoy the ancient scenery.

    Click here to read more. 

    Steinkjer Municipality

    Steinkjer is one of the larger municipalities in the region, though its population density is very low, with just 12.6 inhabitants per sq km (33 sq mi). The population has increased by 2.4% over the last 10 years. The coat-of-arms shows a verranjekt, a type of boat that is very common in the area. It’s a new coat-of-arms from 2020.

    The area around Steinkjer is historic – it has been populated since the Stone Age. Rock carvings can be seen in the area, and the oldest are 6,000 years old. During the Viking Age, Steinkjer was an important base and Maere was one of the best known religious places with sacrifices and gatherings before Christianity came to the country.

    The town of Steinkjer was sadly bombed during World War II. The attack destroyed a large part of Steinkjer, and many priceless historic buildings, including the church, were lost. The town was quickly rebuilt after the war with the help of aid from the United States. Much of the architecture found in Steinkjer is from the 1950s and 1960s and is inspired by functionalism. One of the few buildings to survive the bombing is the train station, which is designed in art nouveau.

    Steinkjer is one of the northernmost areas with rich agriculture, allowing large production of grain. You’ll notice as you drive through just how important grain production is to the area. Tall grain silos can be seen all over the landscape.

    Inderøy Municipality

    Inderøy is an agricultural municipality located in North Trøndelag. The municipality has been inhabited since the Middle Ages, and the village of Sakshaug used to be an important political centre. It is home to one of the oldest churches in the area, Old Sakshaug Church, from 1184.

    The coat-of-arms shows the European plaice. The fish was once plentiful int he waters and was one of the main sources of income in the area until around 1940. Fishing is still important to the region. Farming is also very important to the area, and most of the municipality is cultivated. Grass and grain are the most common crops, but strawberries are also common. Most farmers have their own forest, too.

    The population density is 19.4 inhabitants per sq km (50/sq mi). The population has increased by 15.9% over the last 10 years.

    One of the most prominent 20th century Norwegian sculptors, Nils Aas, is from this area.

    Verdal Municipality

    People have lived at Verdal since the Stone Age, and there are farms in the region that are mentioned as far back as the 12th century. The municipality is best known for the site Stiklestad, where we are heading to next.

    A unique word to learn for this area is råning. It refers to all the young people here who are interested in cars. They spend a lot of their time improving or styling their cars and then driving them on a particular route to show them off.

    The economy here is supported by the offshore industry as well as agriculture. Verdal is also known as one of the greatest lottery towns of Norway, with several lottery grand prizes going to people living in Verdal.

    Stiklestad

    Historic Site (Detour)

    Stiklestad is one of the most important religious sites in the country. It is where, in 1030, St. Olav fell in battle during the Battle of Stiklestad. His sainthood arose from this death.

    Today Stiklestad feels like a bit of a tourist trap – they’ve built up all these new centres, exhibitions and hotels in the last 20 years – but there’s still historical interest in visiting here.

    You can read my separate guide to Stiklestad below.

    Levanger Town Centre

    Town

    Shortly after the Falstad Centre, we pass turn-offs to Levanger. If you want to visit the main street, just follow signs towards Levanger. I mentioned the history of Levanger town centre in the section about Levanger municipality.

    Munkeby Abbey Ruins

    Historic Site (Detour)

    Just after Levanger town is the turn-off to the ruins of Munkeby Abbey. It’s just a short drive from the E6, and is a nice area to go to stretch your legs.

    The Munkeby Abbey was founded some time between 1150 and 1180 and it was the most northly Cistercian foundation in the world. It was likely built by English monks. The monastery was eventually closed down, though the church was used until 1587.

    Falstad Centre

    WWWII Site (Detour)

    You can visit the Falstad Centre, which is an old concentration camp from World War II. Today it is a museum. Read a more detailed article below. 

    Stjørdal Municipality

    We have arrived in Stjørdal, which has an amazing coat-of-arms! The design is modern but comes from the old medieval seal of Stjørdal, which dates from 1344. The dragon is a symbol of Saint Margaret of Antioch, and the old seal showed Saint Margaret standing on a slain dragon. It has always stood as a symbol for authority, power, and exalted dignity of the region.  Stjørdal is the location of Steinvikholm Castle, a nice detour.

    Steinviksholmen Castle

    Historic Site (Detour)

    How to get here:

    Steinviksholmen is clearly marked on Google Maps. It’s just off the E6 and marked with brown tourist signs the entire way. It’s about 10-15 minutes off the E6.

    The road is very narrow, and you’ll have to watch out for traffic coming the other way.

    —–

    Steinvikholmen Castle is a 16th century castle constructed by Norway’s last Roman Catholic Bishop, Olav Engelbrektsson. After meeting with the Pope, Olav’s resistance to the Danish rule and the Reformation escalated. Steinvikholm was built as the Catholic churches military stronghold. The castle was finished in 1532, but sadly for Olav the Reformation succeeded in 1537 and Olav was forced to flee to Lier. It was the last Catholic stronghold in Norway. When Olav fled, he left Saint Olav’s shrine and other treasures, and they were returned to Nidaros Cathedral in 1568.

    After the Reformation, the site was used as a quarry and some of its masonry was sold off. Since the late 19th century, the site has been owned and operated by the Past Memory Association (Fortidsminneforeningen). It is used as concert hall for a midnight opera, Olav Engelbrektsson, which details the life and struggles of the archbishop. The opera takes place annually.

    Steinvikholm Castle is Norway’s largest structure from the Middle Ages.

    In summer, it is open as a museum. There are also photographs and information boards (Norwegian and English) around the site. You can walk around the fortress for free, but the interior is what costs money. When we visited, we saw lots of kids swimming in the water around the fortress.

    You park on the mainland and pay a small fee (they use Vipps to accept parking payment), and then walk across the bridge (photographed) to the castle. The entrance is on the other side from my photos.

    Even if you aren’t interested in the castle, the surrounding scenery is gorgeous.

    Hell Station

    Train Station

    Hell is a small village by Trondheim Airport. The village has become a bit of a tourist attraction because of its name, which means “luck” in English. In modern Norwegian, the word for “hell” is “helvete”. The sign underneath says “Gods Expedition”, which actually means “Cargo Handling” in English. Stop by the train station and get a photo!

    Malvik Municipality

    Malvik is a small municipality just outside of Trondheim. It is one of the few municipalities in the area seeing population growth, with the population rising 13% of the last 10 years. Many people work in Trondheim. The coat-of-arms shows a black capercaillie, which is a symbol for the rich nature in the area.

    Trondheim Municipality

    Trondheim (South Sami name Tråante) is the third-most populous municipality in Norway, though it’s the fourth largest urban area. The settlement is a known Viking area, and Trondheim itself has many famous monuments from medieval times. There’s so much to say about Trondheim, so you can read a detailed overview by clicking the button below. 

    Trondheim

    We have now arrived in Trondheim! A detailed overview of Trondheim can be found on the travel guide section of The Hidden North. 

    This is the end of our two-week drive from Trondheim to Senja and back again. Be sure to check out our next series, summer in the West Fjords!

    Previous Drive

    Narvik to Mo i Rana on the E6

    See the previous day’s drive on the E6 between Narvik and Mo i Rana

    This drive is part of the multi-day series “From Trondheim to the Lofoten Islands & Back Again”, where we travel from Trondheim to Lofoten via the Coastal Road, and then take the E6 back south to Trondheim. You can view the entire drive below. 

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Drive it Yourself: E6 from Narvik to Mo i Rana

    Drive it Yourself: E6 from Narvik to Mo i Rana

    The E6 (European Highway 6) is the main highway that runs from Narvik to Mo i Rana. This portion of the drive takes place just above the Arctic Circle; we actually cross the Arctic Circle close to Mo i Rana. 

    There is a lot of World War II history along this road. From the famous Battle of Narvik to the attempted Arctic Railway, there are plenty of historic places to stop. 

    For the nature lovers, the Saltfjellet-Svartisen National Park is a delight to travel through.

    When we did this drive, I remember being surprised by how stunningly beautiful and untouched this part of Norway is. Also, there were so few settlements here. 

    Enjoy the drive!

    In this article...

    Downloadable Version of This Guide

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

    Online Guide

    Downloadable Guide

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    The drive: Narvik to Mo i Rana on the E6

    Narvik

    This drive begins in Narvik. You can find a detailed overview of Narvik via our travel guide. 

    Fagernes

    Village

    Fagernes has historically been a singular farm, and it has been known for a few hundred years as the largest and wealthiest in the inner part of Ofoten. It was of central importance to the construction of the railway between Kiruna and Narvik; the wealthy farmer Statius Mosling was eager to have the railroad built. It is because of him that the Ofoten Line ends in Fagernes and not Narvik.

    Today Fagernes is an inner suburb of Narvik.

    Målselv Municipality

    Målselv (Sami name: Málatvuomi suohkan) is a municipality in Troms County. The area was settled by farmers from southern Norway from 1788 onwards. They came here because of the large, forested areas as well as the fertile land. The valley and the municipality take its name from the river Målselva, which is well known for its salmon. The river also forms the Målselv waterfall, which has been selected as Norway’s national waterfall. One of the rarest orchids in Europe, Lysiella oligantha, is found in Målselva.

    Skjomnes Memorial

    Memorial

    This memorial commemorates the naval battles that took place on the Ofotfjord. It particularly explains the fighting that took place on the Ankenes peninsula, and there is an information board about the dramatic events that took place here. The memorial is set in a nice location by the fjord, perfect to take a break.

    Ballangen

    Village

    Ballangen (Sami name: Bálák) used to be its own municipality until it was merged with Narvik in 2020.

    The area was known in the Viking Age; the first person to live here was Lodve Lange, who is mentioned in the Heimskringla as one of Olav Tryggvason’s most trusted warriors. He lived at Saltvik, the small village we just passed through.

    Ballangen saw growth in the 17th century thanks to mining, and in total over 36 mines have been operated in Ballangen. Minerals like copper, nickel, iron, zinc, manganese and lead have been mined. Ballangen has the dubious distinction of having Norway’s highest rate of sick leave from work, probably due to the high number of people who work in the mines there and related environmental effects.

    Here you’ll find a petrol station and supermarket. There’s also a camping ground here if you wish to spend the night. 

    Bognes - Skarberget

    Ferry

    This is the only ferry connection on the European Highway 6 remaining. The crossing time is only 25 minutes and there are 15 departures a day. There is a café on board as well as restrooms. Simply drive on; your rental car will likely have an AutoPASS, and the ferry staff will scan it – that’s how to pay for a ferry!

    You can view their schedule here. 

    Hamarøy Municipality

    Hamarøy (Sami name: Hábmer) is in Nordland County and the traditional district of Salten. The coat-of-arms is new; it depicts two swans as seen on an ancient rock carving seen in the municipality. The previous coat-of-arms was a lynx, which are common in the area.

    The municipality is dominated by small fjords, pine, birch, and aspen woodland. There are several nature reserves here as some as some beautiful mountains, including the very unique Hamarøyskaftet, which stands 612m (2008ft) high.

    Tourism in Hamarøy is linked with Knut Hamsen, the famous Norwegian author who lived in the area. The municipality also has a ferry connection to the famous Lofoten islands. Agriculture is still a dominaent industry, though the salmon slaughterhouse is also important to the municipality.

    Ulvsvåg

    Village

    Ulvsvåg (Sami name: Ulsváhke) is a small village with all the basic facilities. However, it has an old petrol (ESSO) station from 1946, which is very cute and well worth a quick stop. The name apparently comes from a Viking called Ulv who chose to settle here.

    Knut Hamsun Centre

    The Knut Hamsun Centre (Hamsunsenteret) is a museum dedicated to the life and work of author Knut Hamsun. The building was designed by American architect Steve Holl (who also designed the Kiasma art gallery in Helsinki) and opened in 2009. The exhibition is structured thematically and deals with topics like Knut Hamsun’s childhood in Hamarøy, his support of Germany during World War II, and modernism in his writing.

    Click here to visit their website.

    The centre is 15km off the E6. 

    Innhavet

    Settlement

    Innhavet is a small settlement located by the Sagfjorden. It has all the facilities needed for a town of its size, including a school, grocery store and hairdresser. This is also where you’ll find the Hamarøy War Museum, as the Germans had started building a train station would would be part of the Arctic Circle train line. They were using Soviet prisoners of war to construct the train. Remains of railway and prison camps are found in the area.

    Sørfold Municipality

    Sørfold is a municipality in Nordland Count and the traditional district of Salten. The coat-of-arms represents a silver wheel of a turbine in a hydroelectric power plant; the rivers in Sørfold contain many rapids and waterfalls that are partly harnessed to generate electricity. It has provided a major source of income for the community.

    Sørfold is about 120km (75 mi) north of the Arctic Circle and is home to Rago National Park, known for its wild nature with bare rock, streams and a pine forest.

    During World War II, the German army had a prisoner-of-war camp here housing Russian POWs who were building the Polarbanen (Arctic Railway) that was supposed to connect Fauske with Narvik. Some ruins of the camp and the railway can still be seen.

    Mørsvikbotn

    Village

    This is a small village with a school and a grocery shop. The area is known for a prison camp that used to stand here during World War II. The prison camp was used for Russian POWs who were here to build the Arctic Railway between Fauske and Narvik on the Polarbanen.

    Straumen

    Village

    Straumen is the administrative centre of Sørfold in Nordland. It has a population of around 890. The larger town of Fauske is about 12km away.

    Fauske Municipality

    Fauske (Sami name: Fuassko) is a municipality in Nordland and the traditional district of Salten. The name comes from a historic farm that used to be on the site, and the coat-of-arms represent a red reef knot on a grey background, showing Fauske as a centre of commerce and transportation.

    Several marble quarries can be found in Fauske, and the marble is exported to many countries. Marble from Fauske can be seen on the United Nations Headquarters in New York City, for example. Dolomite quarries are also here, and there is some agriculture.

    There are two large glaciers in Fauske – Blåmannsisen and Sulitjelma. Together, they cover 14% of the municipality. There are also parts of the Junkerdal National Park and the Sjunkhatten National Park in the municipality, plus several nature reserves. Fauske is located within the Arctic Circle.

    Fauske has a rich Sami history, and at Leivset is a protected Sami sacrificial site. Place names in the municipality come from the Sami people.

    Fauske

    Town

    Fauske is a town and main centre for Fauske Municipality. It has a population of 6,300 and is a fairly ‘new’ town; it was established in 1998. However, the name comes from an old farm that has been here for thousands of years. Fauske Church (from 1867) is built on the site of the farm.

    Fauske is a stop on the Nordlandsbanen, which runs between Trondheim and Bodø. Despite being above the Arctic Circle, Fauske does not experience the polar night – in December, the sun rises at 11am and sets before 12pm.

    Fauske is a great place to break up the drive. It has a shopping mall, petrol stations, grocery stores, and even a Scandic Hotel.

    At Fauske you’ll find a turn-off to Highway 80, which will take you all the way to Bodo. Click here to visit the travel guide page for Bodo. 

    Saltdal Municipality

    Saltdal (Sami name: Sálát) is a municipality in Nordland County and part of the traditional district of Salten. The coat-of-arms represents two gold-coloured rowan twigs on a red background, representing the nature and prevalence of rowan forests in the municipality.

    The main centre of the municipality is Rognan, which sits on the southern shore of the Saltdal Fjord. A major historical industry was boat building out of local timber. Today it is Nexans, a global fibre company. The company’s Rognan factory specialises in telecommunications, fibre optics and copper cables.

    Rognan

    Village

    Rognan is the main town for Saltdal municipality and is located at the innermost part of the Skjerstad fjord.

    The main industry here is the optical cable factory of Nexans. The Nordland Line between Trondheim and Bodø stops in Rognan, too. Rognan has the “Blodvei Museum”, a museum about the Nazi’s attempt to build a railway between Fauske and Narvik.

    Rognan has a grocery store, hotel, camping ground and petrol station. 

    Saltfjellet-Svartisen

    National Park

    This park is a national park that has the European Highway 6 and the Nordland Line running through it, which makes it pretty special. It is one of the largest and most varied national parks in Norway, with alpine mountains, glaciers, as well as forested valleys. In this stretch, we see the Saltfjellet mountain range.

    Many Sami cultural landmarks are within the park, too. Some of the oldest Sami monuments are from the 9th century and include sacrificial sites, animal graves and fences. Today’s domestic reindeer husbandry has its roots from the 16th century.

    The Saltfjellet Mountain Range has peaks reaching up to 1,751m (5,745ft) above sea level. In the park you will see lots of reindeer, but there are also wolverines and lynx. In the valleys are plenty of moose. Cabins are available to rent within the park if you wish to spend a longer period of time here.

    We drive through the eastern part of the park. 

    Rana Municipality

    Rana is a large municipality within the Helgeland traditional region. The main city is Mo i Rana, where this drive finishes today. The municipality is located just south of the Arctic Circle, and the municipality is famous for their numerous caves due to the limestone rock.

    Arctic Circle Centre

    Visitor Centre

    The Arctic Circle Centre is a fun little roadside stop to get some souvenirs, snacks, and take some photos of yourself on the Arctic Circle. The centre opened in 1990, the same time the E6 highway over the Saltfjellet mountains was completed.

    Eiterå

    Village

    Eiterå is a small farming settlement in Rana. It is one of the oldest areas in Rana municipality; the land was cleared for farming in 1723 and four farms were established into the areas. The farm buildings still stand today and are operated by the descendants of the original owners.

    Mo i Rana

    We have now arrived in Mo i Rana! You can find a detailed version of Mo i Rana over on our travel guide. 

    Continue the drive

    The E6 between Mo i Rana and Trondheim

    After Mo i Rana, we continued south on the E6 to Trondheim on the last part of our incredible road-trip. 

    Previous Drive

    Nordkjosbotn to Narvik

    Our previous drive began near Finnsnes and continued south on the E6 to Narvik. 

    This drive is part of the multi-day series “From Trondheim to the Lofoten Islands & Back Again”, where we travel from Trondheim to Lofoten via the Coastal Road, and then take the E6 back south to Trondheim. You can view the entire drive below. 

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Drive it Yourself: The Lofoten Islands Part 2: Svolvær to Harstad

    Drive it Yourself: The Lofoten Islands Part 2: Svolvær to Harstad

    The Lofoten Islands is probably one of the most famous places in Norway. Many people making the trip here want to head to Lofoten, and rightly so. Steep mountain peaks rise out of the ocean forming the Lofoten archipelago, one of the most scenic places in Norway. For thousands of years fishermen have lived at the foot of these peaks, building now iconic rorbuer and living off the cod fishing season. This history survives today on Lofoten, and you get to explore it with this road-trip!

    This road-trip is part one of two parts and takes you from Å in the south to Svolvær, which is a little over halfway up the archipelago.

    In this article...

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    Online Guide

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    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    Begin: Svolvær

    With a population of 4,720, Svolvær is the largest city in the Lofoten Islands. The settlement is old; Svolvær was first mentioned in 1567. However, Svolvær didn’t gain prominence until the early 20th century when the motorized boats needed a modern harbour.

    The cod fisheries are still an important industry in Svolvær, but tourism is one of the main industries in the city. Svolvær is also a major transportation hub and favourite starting point for tourists. The Hurtigruten also stops here twice a day. It is possible to do sea eagle safaris, whale watching tours, and take a scenic cruise into the nearby Trollfjord. Svolvær also has a downhill skiing centre. In town, you’ll find the Lofoten War Memorial Museum a Magic Ice Bar, and numerous galleries.

    Svolvær Airport

    Airport

    Svolvær Airport is a regional airport in Lofoten. While it is one of the main airports for Lofoten, it is likely not the one you will fly to if you are flying to Lofoten – instead, it’s better to fly to Harstad/Narvik and drive from there. Svolvær Airport is served by Widerøe and the routes are subsidized by the government with direct flights to Bodø, Oslo, and small communities in Nordland county. There are plans to make a new primary airport to serve the Lofoten and Vesterålen region, making it more attractive to visit out of the tourist season.

    Austnesfjorden

    Photo Stop

    The Austnesfjorden Photo Stop is located shortly after Svolvær Airport. The view is excellent over the fjord and you can see Sildpollnes Church in the distance.

    Sildpollnes Church is a small white wooden church from 1891. The church had some drama recently, when the current neighbour refused to let people through his property to get to the church because he said the 1890 agreement stated people could pass on foot, but it didn’t mention automobiles. The church closed in 2015 and the case went to court, with the neighbour loosing and the Lofoten District Court ruling in favour of the church.

    At the photo stop they have a place you can walk up to with a viewing platform. I’ve used a photo of it at the top of this page. This is where you get the view out to the church. 

    Hadsel Municipality

    Hadsel municipality is located on four main islands in Vesterålen – Hinnøya, Langøya, Hadseløya, and Austvågøya.

    Hadsel has been an important hub for the fishing industry, and due to its proximity to Lofoten has always been an important trading place for Lofoten residents. The oldest settlements were likely on the southern side of Hadseløya, but the main harbour has always been Stokmarknes.

    The name “Hadsel” comes from the Old Norse word “Hovdasegl”, meaning “main sail”. The name describes that Hadseløya can look like a merged mainsail on a Nordland boat when you see Hadseløya from Langøya. The Sami name for Hadsel is Ulpesuohkan, referring to the old name for the area (Ulvøya).

    The main airport here is the Stokmarknes Airport, the busiest small aircraft airport in Norway. Stokmarknes is also the birthplace of Hurtigruten, the Norwegian coastal ferry.

    The coat of arms represents four yellow rings, representing the four main islands the municipality is on.

    Vesterålen

    Traditional Region

    Many people confuse Vesterålen for Lofoten, but in fact they are two different areas. 

    Vesterålen is an archipelago between Lofoten and the Norwegian mainland. Many assume that the whole area is just Lofoten, but it’s just the southern half of the islands. The name “Vesterålen” means “western strait”. The landscape here is very mountainous, but the mountains are more rounded than Lofoten. The towns and villages are on the coastal brim between the mountains and the fjords. Fishing, in particular cod fisheries, has always been important to Vesterålen. Today there is also fish farming and some agriculture in the area.

    Hinnøya

    Island

    Hinnøya is the fourth largest island in Norway, and the largest out of Svalbard. The island has several fjords and typically has a mountainous and rugged terrain. There are also valleys and lakes; the treeline is around 400m above sea level.

    Lødingen Municipality

    Lødingen (Sami name: Lodek) is a region on the southwestern part of the island Hinnøya and it is part of the traditional district called Ofoten. While not technically part of Vesterålen, it does participate in councils with the municipalities in Vesterålen.

    The most historically important place in Lødingen is Hjertholmen, a farm and meeting place for residents and visitors. It was owned by the Lødingen Prestegård (rectory) in 1860, and a lighthouse was also built on the site along with the guardhouse and telegraph office. Today the place is used as a gathering place for schools, kindergartens, and visitors. The site is located in Lødingen village.

    Another important site is Hustad gård, which was a large Viking farm 1,000 years ago. The museum tells the story of agricultural history, but there is also a cultural path that follows the Iron Age settlement. The main church, Lødingen Church, is built on the site of the first church in the area, built in the 13th century.

    The tallest mountain in Lødingen is the mountain Møysalen, which is 1263m above sea level making it the second highest mountain peak on an island in Norway.

    Lødingen is known as “Biketown” because it has several annual bike races. The Lødingen Cycling Club is Norway’s largest cycling club in terms of population. Lofoten Insomnia is a race that begins in Å (at the far end of Lofoten) and ends in Lødingen.

    Another important event here is the Seafood Festival with concerts and an excellent selection of seafood. Sailboats from all over the country visit the festival, which takes place in the early summer.

    Troms County

    Troms County existed up until 1 January 2020, when it was merged with Finnmark County to make Troms og Finnmark. However, at time of writing, there are rumours the two will split up. So, I’m going to provide information just about Troms.

    The area has been settled since the Stone Age, and the first of the current ethnic groups to settle in the county were the Sami people. Archaeological evidence shows that a Norse-based culture existed here in the Late Roman Iron Age (200-400AD). The Norse settled along the coast and some of the larger fjords, while the Sami lived in some fjord areas and inland. The southern part of Troms was a petty kingdom in the Viking Age. Trondenes (today’s Harstad) was an important Viking power centre and gathering place.

    Troms takes its name from the island Tromsøya where the city Tromsø is located. The area is in the northern part of the Scandinavian peninsula, and due to its low population and distance from high density European cities, it is one of the least polluted areas in Europe.

    With its latitude of nearly 70 degrees north, the area has cool, short summers but mild winters due to the Gulf Stream. The area experiences the midnight sun between May and July and then the polar night between November and January.

    Outside of the big cities, fishing remains an important industry and there are several important fishing ports throughout the county. Tromsø is the commercial centre for the northern part of the county, while Harstad is the centre for the southern part of the county.

    Kvæfjord Municipality

    Kvæfjord (Sami: Giehtavuotna) is in the traditional region of Central Hålogaland with the main village being Borkenes. The municipality is known for its agriculture and farming, with the quality of the strawberries being particularly famous. The long hours of daylight and low summer temperatures are great for strawberries, making them more tasteful than berries grown in warmer climates. Potatoes are also particularly well known from this region, and the fjords are known for their good herring. Chicken farming for egg production and pig farming are also important.

    Kvæfjord is a historic region, and burial mounds and items found during excavations indicate that there have been settlements here since the Iron Age. One of the oldest farms, Vebostad, has traces from 300BC. Many of the names in the area have Iron Age and Viking Age origin. For example, Vebostad has ‘ve’ in it, which is an old word meaning sanctuary, residence, and pagan sacrificial site. Another farm, Hundstad, may be connected to the famous Viking Tore Hund.

    On the mountain Melåaksla, over 30 shooting shelters have been found on an inaccessible mountain path that the reindeer use as a migration route. As many as 40-50 people were involved in reindeer hunting here.

    Sami people have lived in Kvæfjord for a very long time, but the historical information is scattered. It is known that the Sami lived along the fjords, particularly Austerfjord, as well as in the inland areas. In the Storjord area are traces of Sami settlement from the 17th to 19th centuries.

    Kvæfjord is the home of the Kvæfjord Cake, the Norwegian national cake. The cake is a sponge cake baked with meringue, vanilla cream, and almonds.

    Boazovazzi

    Shop

    On the right is Boazovazzi, a shop where you can buy Sami products. The name is the Sami word for ‘Reindeer herder’ and here you can buy reindeer meat or Sami handicrafts. They also have six rooms for rent. Put the name of the shop in Google and check them out!

    Tjeldsund Municipality

    Tjeldsund (Sami name: Dielddanuorri) is a municipality that’s part of the Ofoten traditional district and the Central Hålogaland district. The main village in the municipality is Evenskjer.  The main education and training centre for Norway’s firemen, Norges Brannskole, is in Fjelldal in Tjeldsund. A naval base is also located here at Ramsund. Besides that, there is some small industry including farming, fishing, banking, and transport.

    Kongsvika

    Village

    Kongsvika is a small village with around 300 people living there. It has cabins for rental and the first petrol station we’ve seen in a while! It’s a good place to stop for a break. 

    Sandtorg

    Village

    Sandtorg is a small village with a population of around 300. It is an old settlement; there has been a trading post here since the 13th century. Sandtorg grew in importance in the 18th century when pilot services were added for foreign and local ships. The trading post lasted until 1945, when the Norwegian Amy’s communication services took over operations after German occupation. The army returned the post to civilian use in the 1990s and today the trading post still stands with a hotel and restaurant.

    In 2014, three coins from the Middle Ages and two pieces of payment silver dating to the Viking times were found here. The two coins were minted under Eirik Magnusson and date to 1285-1290. The third coin is from 1483-1513. In 2020, it was concluded that Sandtorg is the only Viking Age trading place in Northern Norway.

    You can spend the night at Sandtorgholmen Hotel, which is built on the site that has been used as the trading post since the 19th century. The original site was further north. Prices start at around 1200 NOK for a standard room for one night.

    You can visit the hotel website here: https://www.sandtorgholmen.no/?lang=en

    Sørvik

    Village

    Sørvik is a small village located close to Harstad. The village has a historical museum that opens in the summer. They’ve collected log buildings from around Harstad and recreated the museum like an old farm and village. The museum aims to show the Norwegian home and lifestyle in the 19th and early 20th century, though some of the architecture dates back to before the 19th century.

    Harstad

    Harstad is the second most populated city in Troms after Tromsø, with a population of 24,703.

    The oldest part of Harstad is the area Trondenes, which is mentioned in the Heimskringla (King’s Sagas) as a power centre in the Viking Age and a place to meet and discuss important issues. It wasn’t a trading place; Sandtorg is the only known Viking Age trading place in Northern Norway. It is possible to visit Trondenes, and that’s where we are going!

    Harstad city didn’t grow until the late 19th and early 20th centuries, when it emerged as an important trading place with a large harbour for ships. The city experienced rapid expansion with the introduction of steam ships.

    Continue the drive

    Andøya Tourist Road

    Visit Norway’s most remote tourist road at the end of the world!

    Previous Drive

    The Lofoten Islands Part 1: Å to Svolvær

    See the previous day’s drive through the lower part of Lofoten

    This drive is part of the multi-day series “From Trondheim to the Lofoten Islands & Back Again”, where we travel from Trondheim to Lofoten via the Coastal Road, and then take the E6 back south to Trondheim. You can view the entire drive below. 

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!