Emma

Hey! My name is Emma. I'm from Australia but have lived in Bergen, Norway, for the last eight years. I work as a local guide and tour leader for all over Northern Europe. The Hidden North is an online travel guide I have made to help you plan your own visit here.

  • Geiranger, Loen, Olden, Road-trips, Sandane, Scenic Drives, Stryn

    Drive it Yourself: Geiranger to Sandane via Stryn & Loen

    Drive it Yourself: Geiranger to Sandane via Stryn and Loen

    In June 2023 Sean and I set off for a weekend in the fjords. The goal was to film as much as possible while the weather was good. Originally I had wanted to do the Gamle Strynefjellvegen Tourist Road, but it was still closed because of snow. Oh well – it’s just an excuse to go back!

    This road was beautiful. I hadn’t been to this part of Western Norway for years, and was reminded of just how special it was. A highlight was the stretch from Loen to Utvik; easily the most beautiful fjord I’ve driven along.

    We chose Sandane to spend the night because of the historic hotel; it was a town I had never heard of but I had heard of the hotel. 

    In this article...

    Download this Guide

    All of our guides can be downloaded via our online store. 

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

    View on Store

    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Information about facilities along the way

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the region & towns
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Facilities including supermarkets, toilets, petrol, hotels, cafes, restaurants with addresses.

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    Visit Our YouTube Channel

    Geiranger to Sandane via Stryn & Loen

    Geiranger

    This drive begins in Geiranger, a popular village due to its incredible fjord. This is also the end of the Trollstigen Tourist Road, a very popular road in Western Norway. You can read all about Geiranger via our travel guide page. 

    Geiranger Travel Guide

    Flydalsjuvet

    Scenic Overlook

    As you leave Geiranger there is a lovely viewpoint over the village and the fjord called Flydalsjuvet. It’s not to be missed!

    Knuten

    Historic Site

    Knuten (the Knot) is a section of the old road. It’s still the same as it was when it opened in 1882. It is a loop road used to get up/down the steep mountain. The road curves 270 degrees, and was designed to reduce the road graient for passing horses and people.

    It’s important to note that it’s very hard to see Knuten if you’re going down into Geiranger. It’s best viewed if going up from Geiranger.

    Cars are not allowed to go up, but people and bikes can.

    Dalsnibba Viewpoint

    We are now at the famous Dalsnibba Viewpoint. It’s a lengthy detour, but if you can see the mountain peaks, it’s well worth doing.

    Dalsnibba is a viewpoint located at an altitude of 1,746m. From the top, you can see Geiranger, the Geirangerfjord, and the road we’ve taken to get here. The view is unlike anything else. The road is only 5km (3 mi) off the main road, but it takes a long time as the road is narrow, has many hairpin bends, and often has a lot of traffic.

    The road has a toll as it is a private road. You can see updated prices via the link in the description. At the top you’ll find a café, souvenir shop, and incredible views. It is often very, very cold and very windy. Bring extra layers! Snow is common all year round.

    Dalsnibba Viewpoint

    Innlandet County

    Skjåk Municipality

    Skjåk is a municipality in Innlandet. It’s part of the traditional region of Gudbrandsdalen. The name comes from an old farm.

    After the last Ice Age, it’s believed reindeer followed the ice as it retreated north to Scandinavia. Skjåk is in the middle of the central migration route for the Scandinavian reindeer. There are ancient large hunting facilities and traces of settlements that show hunting and trapping was important here from the Ice Age until today. There are farm names that date back to the Iron Age. There is a hunting facility for moose from 220-570AD.

    The region is mentioned in the Viking Age and has a rich cultural heritage. St. Olav supposedly travelled through the valley when he was Christianising the villages. He christianised Lom, but Skjåk refused. As a result, the village was burned. St. Olav said: “It’s a pity to burn such a beautiful village”.

    There was a high population growth during the Middle Ages, and there were around 120 farms here just before the Black Death in 1349. After the plague, the population was more than halved. In the second half of the 17th century, the population recovered to the pre-plague numbers. Most of the farms in Skjåk were owned by the farmers. From 1730, the forest began to be exploited for the timber industry.

    You will then turn right, following signs towards Stryn. We did this trip in the low season so were not able to do the Gamle Strynefjellvegen Tourist Road, but if you are doing this drive from mid-June to early September, the road will be open. 

    Vestlandet County

    Stryn Municipality

    Stryn municipality is located around the innermost part of the Nordfjorden. Farming, forestry, fruit growing, animal breeding for fur and manufacturing is important to the region. Stryn is also known for its all-year glacier skiing at Stryn Sommerski.

    Strynefjellet

    Mountains

    Strynefjellet is a mountain range that separates Vestland and Innlandet counties. The mountain area is partly within the Breheimen National Park and the mountains are the main watershed between West and East Norway.

    Oppstrynsvatn

    Lake

    The Oppstrynsvatnet lake is the main outflow of the river Stryneelva, which flows west into the Nordfjorden. The village we are driving through is located by the lake. This is where you also find the Jostedalsbreen National Park Centre.

    Stryn

    The village of Stryn has a population of around 2,600 people. One of the fastest growing industries here is tourism because of the proximity to the national parks and popular areas like Geiranger. Stryn is the administrative centre for the region.

    Stryn Travel Guide

    Loen Skylift

    The Loen Skylift is an incredible cable car that rises 1000m (3300ft) above sea level. We covered it in a separate article, which you can see below. 

    Loen Skylift (coming soon)

    Loen

    Loen is a small village located on the inner part of the Nordfjord. Loen is home to the historic Hotel Alexandra, which opened in 1884. It is named after Princess Alexandra of Denmark. The hotel has undergone a lot of development since it opened, and it is currently in its fifth generation of the same family running it. Loen Church is from 1838 and is located higher up in the valley, but historical records indicate that a church has been here since the early 14th century.

    Loen Travel Guide

    Olden

    Olden is a small village with around 500 people. This is where the larger cruise ships dock that are heading to Loen or the Jostedalsbreen National Park. In 2019, 102 cruise ships came here. The Briksdalsbreen glacier is a popular hiking destination and is located about 25km (16 mi) from Olden.

    Olden Travel Guide

    Innvik

    Village

    Innvik is a small village with around 430 people living there. At its peak, however, there were over 3,000 people living here.

    Utvik

    Village

    Utvik is a small village with around 332 people living there. The village is located on the southern side of the Nordfjord. Utvik has been an important communications hub for hundreds of years. The Royal Trondheim Postal Route was established through here in 1795, and at Utvik the postal workers would take a boat to the northern side of the fjord.

    Utvik developed as an important place for trade. There was an inn, pier, post office, bakers, dyers, and blacksmiths living here. Trade has existed here since the mid-17th century. Additionally, there has been a church in Utvik since the 14th century, though the church the village has today is from 1840. The altarpiece and pulpit are from 1617, while the church bells are from the Middle Ages.

    Today Utvik has a large production of fruit and berries.

    Gloppen Municipality

    Gloppen is a municipality located just south of the Nordfjord with around 5,800 people living there. Part of the municipality is located around the Gloppefjorden. Gloppen is one of the largest agricultural municipalities in Western Norway and accounts for 10% of Norway’s milk production.

    The word ‘Gloppen’ comes from the old Norse Gloppi and means “narrow opening”. The area was an important place in the Viking Age, and a number of burial mounds have been found here. Some of the oldest burial mounds go back to the 4th century. Karnilshaugen is West Norway’s largest mound – 7 metres high and a diameter of 50 metres. It was probably built as an astronomical mark as the mound is the last point to receive sun during the winter solstice.

    Sandane

    Sandane is a small town with a population of 2,500. The centre is fairly modern, but people have lived here for hundreds of years. The village has a high school, football team, gold course and small airport. The main square of the town is Heradsplassen, which has a monument of a copy of a wooden object that was found dating to the 4th century. The original is in the Historical Museum in Bergen. This is the only wood carving of its type to be found in Norway; similar objects have been found in Iran and Afghanistan.

    Sandane is home to the Gloppen Hotel, one of Norway’s historic hotels. The hotel was established in 1866 and is today owned by the hotel chain Classic Norway. It was extended in 1921 and now has a Swiss-style appearance. The highlight of the hotel is the kitchen. Gloppen Mat is the hotels own production kitchen in the back garden, and the restaurant only serves locally sourced food.

    Sandane Travel Guide

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

    Previous Drive

    Trollstigen Tourist Road

    Before this drive, we completed the Trollstigen Tourist Road. 

    Trollstigen Tourist Road
  • Ålesund, Åndalsnes, Dombås, European Highways, Road-trips

    Drive it Yourself: Dombås to Ålesund via Åndalsnes on the E136

    Drive it Yourself: Dombås to Ålesund via Åndalsnes on the E136

    Here’s my guide to the drive from Dombås to Ålesund on the E136. In June 2023 Sean and I decided to take advantage of a sunny weekend and head out to the fjords for a road-trip. I have only ever driving along Trollveggen once, and I vaguely remembered it. However, I had heard over and over again how beautiful it was and realised this was the perfect chance to see the mountains. The drive is short but so beautiful and a great thing to do before climbing up Trollstigen. 

    In this article...

    Download this Guide

    All of our guides can be downloaded via our online store. 

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

    View on Store

    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Information about facilities along the way

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the region & towns
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Facilities including supermarkets, toilets, petrol, hotels, cafes, restaurants with addresses.

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    Visit Our YouTube Channel

    Dombås to Ålesund on the E136

    Dombås Travel Guide

    This drive begins in Dombås, an important transportation hub. You can read about Dombås on our travel guide below. 

    Dombås Travel Guide

    E136

    Highway

    The E136 highway goes between Ålesund and Dombås, connecting the coastal city with the E6 highway that runs through Norway. The E136 is the main road running between Eastern Norway and the Ålesund/Molde region.

    The old road was, in historic times, an important road for the farmers of the northern part of the Gudbrandsdalen valley and the surrounding mountain villages. They would use the road to get access to the sea, where they could buy items like salt.

    This was one of the first roads between Eastern and Western Norway to be paved as a driving road. Old stations still exist along the road where those travelling in carriages would stop to rest.

    The road runs parallel to the Rauma Railway, a scenic train. Construction for the railway began in 1912 and it was open in 1924. The railway is today mostly a scenic train.

    Lesja Municipality

    Lesja is a mountainous municipality located in the traditional Gudbrandsdalen region. Most of the municipality is above 900m above sea level. The main industry here is agriculture, employing around 30% of the population.

    Rauma Valley

    Valley

    The Romsdalen valley is one of the most spectacular valleys in Norway. Large parts of the valley are narrow and run between high alpine mountains. The valley floor rises from the Romsdalsfjorden and the Rauma river runs through the valley.

    Lesjaverk

    Valley

    Lesjaverk is a small village located at 633m above sea level. In 1659, an ironworks was established here. The mines had a very uneven supply of ore and business here was never stable. However, the iron ore was of very good quality due to the amount of chromium in the ore. The ironworks closed in 1812 as the operation was of never any great importance. Remnants of the mine exist around the village.

    Bjorli

    Village

    Bjorli is a small village that is popular for skiing, with the Bjorli Ski Centre being located here. The area has stable snow conditions and a long ski season. Bjorli is also a good base for the Dovrefjell-Sunndalsfjella National Park. One scene in ‘Harry Potter and the Half-Blood Prince’ was filmed in this area because of its unique mountainous terrain.

    Møre og Romsdal County

    Rauma Municipality

    Rauma municipality is known for its incredible diversity of nature. In the outer parts, the mountains are low and the slopes are gentler. In the inner parts, the slopes are steeper and many mountains have vertical walls. The highest mountain is Pyttegga, at 1999m above sea level.

    Agriculture has traditionally been the most important industry in Rauma, but the number of farms has been greatly reduced since the last half of the 20th century. In the mid-19th century the area became industrialised with textiles factories, and Rauma wool was established in 1927. Today tourism is an important industry.

    Trollveggen

    Mountain Wall

    You are now beginning your drive along Trollveggen, the ‘Troll Wall’ in English. It is Europe’s highest vertical cliff and is approximately 1,700 metres high, with around a 1,000 metre vertical drop. The area has been popular with climbers since the 1960s.

    Kors Kirke

    Church

    Soon we will pass Kors Kirke on the right. This church is from 1797 but was moved from its original location to here in 1902. There has been a church in the valley since the 15th century.

    Trollveggen Visitor Centre

    Trollveggen Visitor Centre is located close to the start of the Trollstigen Tourist Road. Here you’ll find restrooms, a cafeteria and a souvenir shop. There is also some information about Trollveggen and the surrounding area. 

    Trollstigen Tourist Road

    Shortly before arriving at Åndalsnes, you’ll pass the turn-off to the Trollstigen Tourist Road, one of Norway’s 18 national tourist roads. It is a lengthy detour, but is well worth doing!

    Trollstigen Tourist Road

    Åndalsnes

    Åndalsnes is a scenic fjord-side town with all the major facilities you need during a road-trip. It is also am excellent place to stay if you want to break up the drive. 

    Åndalsnes Travel Guide

    Veblungsnes

    Village

    Veblungsnes is a small village just across the river from Åndalsnes. It is a historic farm that has existed for hundreds of years. In the last 200 years it has developed into a village. The Rauma wool company is located here. The local church, Grytten Church, is from 1829.

    After passing through the village, you’ll go through the 6.5km-long Innfjord Tunnel. 

    Innfjorden

    Village

    Innfjorden is a small village located within Rauma municipality. The village is primarily agricultural. The Innfjorden fjord that the village sits along is a branch of the Romsdalsfjorden.

    Vestnes Municipality

    Vestnes is a mountainous municipality that is mentioned in the Norse sagas, when a chieftain lived here. The municipality is divided into three by two fjords. The main industry here is agriculture, with some maritime industry and boat building.

    Vikebukt

    Village

    Vikebukt is a small village with around 650 people living here. The larger town of Molde is located just across the fjord, but a ferry is needed to get across there. The village has been inhabited since the Viking Age, and today a number of burial mounds can be found throughout the area.

    After driving through Vikebukt you cross the Tresfjordbrua Bridge. 

    Vestnes

    Village

    Vestnes village is located on the shore of the Tresfjorden, which is a branch of the Romsdalsfjord. It is the administrative centre for the municipality. This is also where the E39 merges with the E136, which you have been travelling on so far. From Vestnes it is possible to take a ferry across to Molde.

    Ålesund Municipality

    Ålesund

    Ålesund is one of the larger towns along the west Norwegian coast. It is most famous for its Art Nouveau architecture and modern fishing industry. Read our guide to Ålesund below. 

    Ålesund Travel Guide

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

    Previous Drive

    Lom to Dombås

    See the previous day’s drive from Lom to Dombås via Highway 15 and the E6. 

    Lom to Dombås

    Next Drive

    Trollstigen Tourist Road

    On the next drive, we take the Trollstigen Tourist Road from Åndalsnes across to Geiranger. 

    Trollstigen Tourist Road
  • Dombås, Lom, National Highways, Road-trips, Sognefjord, Vågåmo

    Drive it Yourself: Lom to Dombås on the Rv15 & E6

    Drive it Yourself: Lom to Dombås on the Rv15 & E6

    Here’s my guide from Lom to Dombås on the Rv15 and E6 highways. In June 2023 Sean and I decided to take a scenic road-trip through the fjords of Western Norway while the weather was good. My goal was to redo Trollstigen, which we had already done but only ever in bad weather. To get there, I thought it would be interesting to drive from Dombås along the Trollveggen mountains. This drive from Lom to Dombås doesn’t exactly have the most spectacular views, but it is a practical way of getting from west to east Norway. There are some interesting historic places along the way, and we cover those below. 

    In this article...

    Download this Guide

    All of our guides can be downloaded via our online store. 

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

    View on Store

    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Information about facilities along the way

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the region & towns
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Facilities including supermarkets, toilets, petrol, hotels, cafes, restaurants with addresses.

    Lom to Dombås via the Rv15 and E6

    Lom Travel Guide

    Lom is a beautiful town and well worth a visit when in Norway. It is located between some of Norway’s most famous national parks and is home to Lom Stave Church, one of the most impressive stave churches left. 

    Lom Travel Guide

    Garmo

    Village

    Garmo is an interesting historic village. The village is mentioned in documents back to the 13th century as a major farm. Over the centuries it has been divided into smaller farms.

    One of the famous legends from Garmo is how it got its first church. The legend says that Torgeir, an old man from Garmo, was given fishing rights by King Olav (later Saint Olav) after a dispute in 1021 in exchange for converting to Christianity and building a church. The right to fish was always highly valued.

    Garmo Stave Church is from around 1130. The church is no longer in the village; it was moved to Maihaugen in Lillehammer in 1921. The writer and Nobel Prize winner Knut Hamsun was baptized at the stave church in Garmo. His childhood home was located near Lom.  

    Today the village is known for its tradition-rich fiddling community.

    Vågå Municipality

    We are now in the Våga municipality, which itself is located within the Otta Valley. The area is mentioned in the Old Norse Sagas, and it is said that King Olav stayed here while christianising the region. The population was told they had to become Christian, or their homes would be burned down.

    Most of the municipality is higher than 900m above sea level, and on the northern side of the valley the mountains can reach peaks of 1500m – 1600m above sea level.

    Valdresflye Tourist Road

    Just before reaching the village of Vågåmo, you’ll pass the turn to drive onto the Valdresflye Tourist Road, one of Norway’s 18 national tourist roads. You can learn more about it in a separate article. 

    Valdresflye Tourist Road

    Vågåmo

    Vågåmo is a small village with around 1,500 people living there. It is located by the Våga Lake. In the centre of town is the Vågå Chruch from the 17th century that was partly built with parts from an older stave church. The Vågå rectory (Ullinsvin) is where Edvard Munch’s great grandmother had a herb garden.

    Vågåmo is one of the driest areas in Norway but has been hit by floods and landslides. Extreme floods and landslides have occurred throughout history; the best known is from 1789 while the most recent major event was in 2006.

    Edvard Munch's Vågå

    Sel Municipality

    Sel is regarded as the gateway to some of the most beautiful mountain areas in Norway, including Rondane and Jotunheimen. The word ‘sel’ comes from the Old Norse ‘sil’, which means ‘still, flowing water’. Here there is little rainfall, cold winters, and warm summers.

    The village of Sel has several historic farmhouses. The famous novel “Kristin Lavransdatter” by Sigrid Undset is set in Sel on a fictional farm, and the movie from the 1990s was filmed here.

    Rondane National Park

    When the Rv15 meets up with the E6, there will be some turn-offs to head towards the Rondane National Park. We covered this in a separate article. 

    Rondane National Park

    Dovre Municipality

    Dovre is a municipality within the Gudbrandsdalen valley. Large parts of the municipality include the Rondane, Dovrefjell-Sunndalsfjella and Dovre national parks. The municipality is known for its rich flora and fauna, especially the musk ox. There are also populations of wild reindeer and wolverines.

    Dombås

    Dombås is a small town with a population of around 1,161 and is located at the northern part of Gudbrandsdalen. The village is a popular hub for access to the national parks in the surrounding area.

    In historic times, Dombås was an important station for travellers heading between Oslo and Trondheim. Today it is still an important transport hub, with the Dovrebanen and Raumabanen railways meeting here. Also, the E6 and E136 highways meet here.

    Dombås Travel Guide

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

    Previous Drive

    Lærdal to Lom

    See the previous day’s drive from Lærdal to Lom via Tindeveien and the Sognefjellet Tourist Road. 

    Lærdal to Lom

    Next Drive

    Dombås to Åndalsnes

    On the next drive, we take the E136 from Dombås to Åndalsnes, driving alongside the incredible Trollveggen mountain range. 

    Dombås to Åndalsnes
  • Årdal, Lærdal, Lom, Road-trips, Scenic Drives, Sognefjord

    Drive it Yourself: Lærdal to Lom via Tindeveien & Sognefjellet

    Drive it Yourself: Lærdal to Lom via Tindeveien & Sognefjellet

    Here’s my self-guided drive for the journey from Lærdal to Lom via the Sognefjellet Tourist Road. In June 2023, Sean and I decided to head out for a weekend in the fjords. Very good weather was forecast, and we didn’t want to miss an opportunity to see this area in the sun! The last time we did Sognefjellet, in September 2020, it was incredibly stormy and we missed all the views. 

    We left Bergen in the afternoon and had a brief break in Lærdal before beginning the journey. I didn’t know what to expect when driving through Årdal to get to Sognefejllet; I had never heard of Tindeveien before and figured it would just be some back road. But wow, was I wrong. Tindeveien was one of the most beautiful roads I have driven on in Norway. Why don’t more people know about it? Well, hopefully I can share it to other people driving in Western Norway.

    Here’s my guide to the very, very scenic drive from Lærdal to Lom via Tindeveien and Sognefjellet. 

    In this article...

    Lærdal to Lom via Tindeveien & Sognefjellet

    Lærdal Travel Guide

    Lærdal has been a trading place since the Middle Ages and probably took over from the old Viking marketplace Kaupanger. Coastal farmers brought herring and fish and exchanged goods with mountain farmers from Valdres and Hallingdal. The Lærdal Market is first mentioned in written sources in 1596. It eventually ended but restarted in 1982 and is still held every year.

    Lærdal Travel Guide

    Sognefjord

    Fjord

    We are now driving along the Sognefjord, which is the longest and deepest fjord in Norway. It is 205km (approx. 125 mi) long and 1303m deep at its deepest point. The width varies from 1 to 2km up to 4 to 5km. Many of the mountains around the fjord are around 1,000 metres high.

    The Sognefjord has been an important transport artery since ancient times. From the innermost arms of the fjord it is a relatively short distance to the inland villages in Eastern Norway.

    The Sognefjord has good herring fishing. In the outer parts of the fjord, salmon has traditionally been fished. There is also some fish farming in the outer parts.

    Årdal Municipality

    Årdal has long been known as a municipality for heavy industry. In 1702, the Årdal Copperworks was established, and there were also sawmills and hydropower plants in this area. In 1948, aluminium production started in Årdal. The aluminium works has been the cornerstone company in Årdal for over 50 years. It was started by the Nazis furing World War II.

    In recent years there has been a lot of investment into tourism and green industries. The municipality has been featured on several television programs in recent years, and the hike in Øvre Årdal has become famous on social media.

    Årdal is still at the forefront of industrial technological development in the fields of aluminium, solar cell production and hydropower.

    Årdal

    Årdalstangen is the main town in Årdal municipality, with a population of around 1,3700. This is largely an industrial town, with a shipping port for the Aluminium company here. There is also a carbon plant, laboratory and administration building for Norsk Hydro here. The old mining office from 1702 is located at the administration building.

    Årdal Travel Guide

    Øvre Årdal

    Village

    Øvre Årdal is a settlement and industrial site. It is where the major aluminium plant is in the region. In Øvre Årdal you’ll also find the famous hiking trail called Tusenmeteren, which was the old road from Øvre Årdal to Valdres constructed in 1937. The train has become increasingly popular on social media because of its incredible views.

    Tindeveien

    Scenic Road

    Tindeveien is the old mountain road between Årdal and Turtagrø. The road is also the main link between the Sognefjord to the Jotunheimen National Park area. The road is only open from May to November due to snow. The road is also part of the shortest land connection between Bergen and Trondheim.

    The road does have a toll booth – payable by credit card. The toll booth is located at the highest point on the road, 1315 metres above sea level.

    Turtagrø

    Mountain Lodge

    Turtagrø is located at 900 metres above sea level and is a popular starting point for many hiking trips. The area has been an important stopping place on the road over the mountain between Lom and Skjolden for a long time. In the 1880s the farmer Ole Berge gave travellers food and shelter, and many Englishmen and pioneers in Nordic mountain sports came to his farm.

    The first hotel was built here in 1888 and helped developed the area as an important meeting place and haunt for mountaineers and hikers. Edvard Grieg also played at the hotel several times. The historic building burned down in 2001 and Ole Berge Draegni, the fourth generation owner, quickly planned a new hotel. It reopened in 2002. Ole Berge Draegni died in the flood disaster in Thailand in 2004. His daughter took over from him.

    The area, known as Hurrungane, is one of Norway’s most alpine areas, with 24 peaks over 2,000 metres above sea level. The peaks have sharp tops and are often separated by glacier formations. Many of the mountains require experienced climbers.

    Nedre Oscarshaug

    Photo Stop

    Nedre Oscarshaug is one of the popular photo stops on the Sognefjellet Tourist Road. Here you can see many of the mountains over the Hurrungane mountain range as well as the valley down to the Sognefjord.

    Sognefjellet

    Tourist Road

    The Sognefjellet Tourist Road is one of Norway’s 18 national tourist roads. It is located on the border between the Innlandet and Vestlandet counties. The mountain crossing has been used for centuries, and it was a popular trade route for bringing grain over from the east to the west.

    From the 19th century onwards, the area developed as a popular place for hikers and climbers, and a number of mountain lodges were established. The first road was completed in 1915, though it has been upgraded since then. Today it is one of the most popular tourist roads. The road is only open in the summer months.

    Innlandet County

    You will cross into Innlandet County, which is a county located in the inner parts of Norway. It has no connection to the sea. 

    Galdbygde

    Village

    Galdbygde is a small village with lodgings for the mountains. It is also where you take the road up to Galdhøpiggen, the highest mountain in Norway. Of course, you can’t drive all the way to the top. This takes you to the start of the hiking trail. 

    Lom Municipality

    You drive into Lom Municipality, which is where our final stop is. 

    Lom

    Welcome to Lom! Lom is a gorgeous village located between three national parks. It is also home to one of Norway’s most impressive stave churches. 

    Lom Travel Guide

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

    Next Drive

    Lom to Dombås

    Follow our next drive from Lom to Dombås. 

    Lom to Dombås
  • Harstad, Lofoten Islands, Road-trips, Scenic Drives, Sortland, Svolvaer, Vesterålen

    Drive it Yourself: Harstad to Svolvær (via the Fv83)

    Drive it Yourself: Harstad to Svolvær (via the Fv83)

    The drive between Harstad and Svolvær is a scenic drive through the traditional regions of Vesterålen and Lofoten.

    There are actually two ways to get between the two towns. The first way is to follow the E10, the major highway that runs through Lofoten. We covered that drive in 2021 (click here to read it). This way, via the Fv83, is the second way. It does take a little longer, but it is worth it. The Fv83 is regarded as a scenic road for the Vesterålen region, which is just as beautiful as Lofoten but with less tourists. It does include one ferry, but the ferry runs regularly. 

    Here’s our guide to the drive from Harstad to Svolvær via the Fv83. 

    In this article...

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    Visit Our YouTube Channel

    Harstad to Svolvær

    Harstad Travel Guide

    Read more about Harstad, one of the largest towns in Northern Norway, below. 

    Harstad Travel Guide

    Kvæfjord Municipality

    Kvæfjord municipality is a scenic municipality located on the island of Hinnøya, which is the largest island in Norway. Around 2,800 people live in the municipality. Kvæfjord is known for its agricultural heritage and its production of strawberries and potatoes. The farms here benefit from south-facing slopes and bright nights under the midnight sun. The fjord is known for its rich supply of herring.

    Archaeological evidence shows there has been settlement here since at least the Iron Age, and there are farms that have evidence of habitation back to 300BC. Some place names in the area come from the Viking Age. There has also always been a small Sami settlement in the area.

    Kvæfjord is home to Norway’s national cake, the Kvæfjord cake. The cake is made with meringue, vanilla cream and almonds.

    Kvæøya

    Island

    You’ll pass a right turn that takes you towards the island. Kvæøya is a small island in the Kvæfjord. It is connected to the mainland via a small bridge, the Kvæøy Bridge, which was completed in 2010. The island is highly regarded for its farming, with large farms on the southern and western sides. 

    Hemmestad

    Village

    Hemmestad is a small village with an interesting history. It used to be the ‘capital’ of Kvæfjord and was a major trading area. In the village today you’ll find the old Hemmstad Brygge (pier), a heritage-listed building that was the trading centre for Kvæfjord throughout the 19th century. Twice a year boats came here with coffee, spices, candy, textiles and spirits. From Hemmestad, rockfish, cod, fowl and mullet was exported.

    Today Hemmestad Brygge is a museum complex that explains the history of trade here.

    Refnes - Flesnes

    Ferry

    You will now take the ferry between Refnes and Flesnes, two small villages on either side of the Gullesfjorden. 

    Bogen

    Settlement

    Bogen is a small settlement that relies on agriculture and fish farming. There is an annual festival here called Flesnes i fest, where several hundred people come to compete in football and car races.

    Langvassbukta

    Village

    Langvassbukta is a small village by the Gullefjord. This is where the county road ends. From here, it turns into Highway 85 (Rv85). To go towards Lofoten, turn left towards Lødingen. It is also recommended to take a scenic detour to Sortland and back.

    This guide follows the scenic detour. 

    Sortland Municipality

    Sortland municipality is the administrative centre for the region and is named after the town of Sortland, which is the largest town and commercial centre in the traditional region of Vesterålen. It is part of the county of Nordland.

    The municipality is spread across the islands of Langøya and Hinnøya in the Vesterålen archipelago. The mountain Møysalen is part of the Møysalen National Park, located in the southern part of the municipality. The midnight sun occurs from the 23rd of May to the 23rd of July, while the polar night occurs from the 30th of November until the 12th of January.

    Sigerfjord

    Town

    Sigerfjord is a small town with around 800 people living there. The church is from 1933 but has a figure of St. Olav from the 15th century inside. It came from an earlier church on the same spot. The town has a primary school and kindergarten. Most of the industry here is connected to the sea.

    Sortland

    Sortland is the main town and administrative centre for the region. It is also known as the ‘blue city’.

    Sortland is a 15 minute detour from Sigerfjord, but is well worth it if you want to stop for a coffee break or pick up some supplies.

    You can read about Sortland via our travel guide below. 

    Sortland Travel Guide

    This drive now continues back towards Lødingen. You’ll reach a round-a-bout and turn onto the E10 towards Å i Lofoten. 

    Hadsel Municipality

    Hadsel municipality is located on four main islands in Vesterålen – Hinnøya, Langøya, Hadseløya, and Austvågøya.

    Hadsel has been an important hub for the fishing industry, and due to its proximity to Lofoten has always been an important trading place for Lofoten residents. The oldest settlements were likely on the southern side of Hadseløya, but the main harbour has always been Stokmarknes.

    The name “Hadsel” comes from the Old Norse word “Hovdasegl”, meaning “main sail”. The name describes that Hadseløya can look like a merged mainsail on a Nordland boat when you see Hadseløya from Langøya. The Sami name for Hadsel is Ulpesuohkan, referring to the old name for the area (Ulvøya).

    The main airport here is the Stokmarknes Airport, the busiest small aircraft airport in Norway. Stokmarknes is also the birthplace of Hurtigruten, the Norwegian coastal ferry.

    The coat of arms represents four yellow rings, representing the four main islands the municipality is on.

    Vågan Municipality

    Vågan is a major municipality in Lofoten. It includes most of the island Austvågøy as well as Gimsøya. It is the easternmost of Lofoten’s six municipalities. The main town in Vågan is Svolvær, where this drive ends. Fishing is the most important industry here, and Vågan is North Norway’s 8th largest fishing municipality.

    Austnesfjorden

    Photo stop

    The view is excellent over the fjord and you can see Sildpollnes Church in the distance.

    Sildpollnes Church is a small white wooden church from 1891. The church had some drama recently, when the current neighbour refused to let people through his property to get to the church because he said the 1890 agreement stated people could pass on foot, but it didn’t mention automobiles. The church closed in 2015 and the case went to court, with the neighbour loosing and the Lofoten District Court ruling in favour of the church.

    At the photo stop they have a place you can walk up to with a viewing platform. I’ve used a photo of it at the top of this page. This is where you get the view out to the church. 

    Svolvær Airport

    Airport

    Svolvær Airport is a regional airport in Lofoten. While it is one of the main airports for Lofoten, it is likely not the one you will fly to if you are flying to Lofoten – instead, it’s better to fly to Harstad/Narvik and drive from there. Svolvær Airport is served by Widerøe and the routes are subsidized by the government with direct flights to Bodø, Oslo, and small communities in Nordland county. There are plans to make a new primary airport to serve the Lofoten and Vesterålen region, making it more attractive to visit out of the tourist season.

    Svolvær

    We have made it to Svolvær, the end of today’s drive! You can read more about Svolvær on our dedicated travel page. 

    Svolvær Travel Guide

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

    Previous Drive

    Kiruna to Harstad via Narvik

    See the previous day’s drive from Kiruna in Sweden to Harstad in Norway via the Norwegian town of Narvik. 

    Kiruna to Harstad via Narvik
  • Aurland, Bergen, European Highways, Fagernes, Flåm, Hønefoss, Lærdal, Norway, Oslo, Road-trips, Vang, Voss

    Drive it Yourself: Oslo to Bergen on the E16

    Drive it Yourself: Oslo to Bergen on the E16

    The E16 between Oslo and Bergen follows the historic road between east and west Norway that has existed for thousands of years. Over the centuries the road has gradually been modernised, but traces of the past remain.

    While the E16 is the longer way between the two cities, the road is lined with historic monuments, including stave churches, runestones, and lodgings. It makes for a great, scenic road-trip!

    Here’s our guide to the E16 highway. 

    In this article...

    Download this Guide

    All of our guides can be downloaded via our online store. 

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

    View on Store

    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Information about facilities along the way

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the region & towns
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Facilities including supermarkets, toilets, petrol, hotels, cafes, restaurants with addresses.

    The Drive: Oslo to Bergen on the E16

    This drive begins in Oslo. 

    Oslo Travel Guide

    Read more about Oslo, Norway’s capital, on our dedicated travel guide page. Click the button below. 

    Oslo Travel Guide

    Sandvika

    Neighbourhood

    The first neighbourhood you drive through is called Sandvika. While it is technically part of Oslo city, it is in many ways regarded as its own community. The population is approximately 130,000.

    Claude Monet visited the city in 1895. During his visit, he painted the city. Perhaps the most famous work from this visit is “Sandviken Village in Snow”, which shows the Løkka Bridge in the foreground with the hill Kolsås in the background. The bridge still stands today.

    The area of Sandvika has existed since for thousands of years. The Sandvik grounds were rich fishing grounds that provided an important supplement to the farms in Sandvika.

    Sandvika is home to Scandinavia’s largest super mall – the Sandvika Storsenter – with 190 stores and a total area of 60,000 square metres or 650,000 square feet.

    Hole Municipality

    The municipality of Hole is situated around the Tyrifjord, where the soil is fertile and suited to growing fruit, berries, and other agricultural products. The coat-of-arms depicts the four Norwegian Kings who lived in the municipality in the 9th to 11th centuries. The most famous of the four is St. Olav (Olav Haraldsson), though Harald Hårdrade is a close second for fame – he was the one credited with ending the Viking Age at the Battle of Stamford Bridge in 1066. The other three kings are Halvdan Svarte (820-860), Sigurd Syr (-1018), and Harald Hardråde (1015-1066). Harald Hardråde is the king who lost at the Battle of Stamford Bridge in 1066, which is considered to be the event when the Viking Age ended.

    Hole is important in Norwegian history. Archaeological finds from the Roman and Migration periods are numerous, and Hole is known as one of the traditional landscapes from the Viking Age and plays a prominent role in the Norse sagas.

    Stein Church Ruins (Stein Kirkeruin) are located at Steinsfjorden. The church was constructed in the latter half of the 1100s. By the second half of the 1500s, the chapel was no longer in use. There are some historic churches in the area: Bønsnes Church is a medieval church from 1100 and Hole Church is probably from 1200.

    Utøya

    Memorial

    As you drive along the Tyrifjord, down on your left is the island Utøya. This was the site of the terrorist attack that happened in Norway in 2011. It is possible to take a detour down to the memorial site. On GPS it is marked as “Minnesmerke Utøya”.

    Tyrifjord

    Lake

    The Tyrifjord is a lake (not a fjord like the name suggests). It is the fifth largest large in Norway with an area of 139km2 and a maximum depth of 295m. It is one of Norway’s most species-rich lakes. The lake used to be part of the sea, but as the land has risen it has become landlocked. In the fjord, free fishing without a licence is accepted based on tradition and custom. Brown trout is caught in the lake, though crayfish is also popular. 

    Sundvollen

    Village

    Sundvollen is a village located along the eastern part of the Tyrifjord. The name comes from the name of a farm that used to be here. Sundvollen is most noted for its hotels. Sundvolden Hotel is one of Norway’s oldest hotels – it was mentioned in written sources dating from 1648. Kleivstua Hotel was a coaching inn in 1780 which catered to travellers going between Christiania (Oslo) and Ringerike. It is on the Old Royal Bergen Road, the historic road between Oslo and Hadeland. The road is also part of the Old Pilgrims Route from Oslo to Trondheim. Understandably, there were many travellers coming through here. They would stop at one of the hotels for food, accommodations, and to give their horses a rest. Unfortunately both of the hotels have been renovated extensively, so there’s no trace of the original lodgings. 

    Petroglyphs from the Bronze Age have been found approximately 100m from the E16 and show ship figures, circuit figures and bowl pits. 

    In Sundvollen you can hike to “Kongens Utsikt”, a scenic viewpoint overlooking the Tyrifjord. 

    Norderhov Church

    Historic Church

    Norderhov Church is a medieval church that was built in 1170. The church is built in local sandstone and limestone in a Romanesque style of architecture. The church was built on a former pagan court for the god Njord, and that’s where the name Norderhob comes from. The church was historically the most important church in Ringerike. 

    Across the road from the church is Norderhov’s old rectory, which is now the Ringerike Museum. The museum has runestones and its collection of the private belongings of Jørgen Engebretsen Moe, a Norwegian author most famous for ‘Norske Folkeeventyr”, a collection of Nowegian folk tales which he edited in collaboration with Peter Christen Asbjørnsen. 

    The church and vicarage are known for their close association with the vicar’s wife Anna Colbjørnsdatter (1667-1736), who legend says tricked the Swedes by getting the Colonel drunk. This gave the far smaller Norwegian-Danish force an opportunity to inflict a defeat on the Swedes. This was in connection with the Battle of Norderhov in 1716. She then received heroine status and is one of the very few female heroes in Norwegian history. She was married to historian and parish priest Jonas Ramus and they are in the crypt under the church. Her portrait can be seen inside the church. The pulpit is from 1582 and is considered one of Norway’s oldest preserved pulpits. 

    Hønefoss Travel Guide

    You don’t drive through Hønefoss on the E16; it is approximately a five-minute drive into the town. However, this is the first major town that you pass on the drive, so it can be a useful rest stop. 

    Hønefoss is regarded as the centre of Ringerike. The town is located by a waterfall and is founded on the sawmill business that arose from the waterfall in the 17th century. Hønefoss is home to several factories and other industry, with Norske Skog Follum, a timber company, having its headquarters here. Dating from 1873, Norske Skog Follum was one of the largest producers of newsprint in Europe until it closed in 2012. 

    HØNEFOSS Travel Guide

    Follum

    Village

    Follum is a small village after Hønefoss on the western side of the Ådal River. It is on the old road that led to the Ådal Valley. The name comes from the oldest farm in the area. 

    Ådal Valley

    Valley

    You are now driving through the Ådal Valley. 

    The first church built in Ådal was a stave church built during the 15th century. It is mentioned in the Diplomatarium Norvegicum in 1462. The church was eventually removed to make way for a larger, more modern church. 

    Viker Church is located on the western shore of the Sperillen Lake and is from 1702. The pulpit, altar and crucifers from the old stave church are inside Viker Church. 

    Valdres Natur og Kulturpark

    Preserve

    You are now entering the traditional district of Valdres, which is situated between the Gudbrandsdal and Hallingdal valleys. The river Begna runs through the municipality. 

    The traditional Valdres region is located approximately halfway between Oslo and Bergen. The valley has the Jotunheimen mountains to the west and the north. Historically, Valdres has been an agricultural economy, but tourism is becoming more important – especially for skiing. 

    Sør-Aurdal Municipality

    The name comes from the valley in which it is located. The coat-of-arms represents a medieval reliquary that is based on the one found at Hedal Stave Church. It has two dragons heads in the design since Sør-Aurdal is one of only two municipalities in Norway that have two stave churches that are still in use. The colour blue represents the two river systems that have historically been important for the logging industry and sawmills. 

    Olav Haraldsson, later St. Olav, travelled through Valdres in 1023 and visited Reinli. At the time, there was a pagan temple at the same location where the stave church stands. 

    One of the highlights of the municipality is Hedalen Stave Church was built in 1160 but rebuilt in 1699. An old legend says that the valley was abandoned during the Black Death and the church was discovered by a bear hunter. A hide is hanging in the church, although there is only a small part of it left as visitors have cut away pieces over the years. We will pass the turnoff for it a little later. 

    Bagn
    Village

    Bagn is the administrative centre of Sør-Aurdal. This area saw extensive fighting during World War II as advancing German forces were stopped in Bagn. The battles in the valley were extensive. 

    In Bagn you can find the Bagn Bygdesamling, a small museum that includes farmhouses, a sawmill, a flour mill, and other buildings. The museum is on a preserved farm. Next to Bagn Church is an intact shop from 1881, which may have been the largest business in Valdres. The shop is open during the summer holidays and before Christmas. 

    Bagn Church is the main church in the valley and seats 350 people. The earliest church in the area was mentioned in 1327, but the church was not new that year. The first church was likely a wooden stave church from the 13th century. The old church was closed in 1683 and for some time the locals had to use Reinli Stave Church. The church that we see today is the second church and dates to 1736. 

    Nord-Aurdal Municipality

    The coat-of-arms for Nord-Aurdal depicts three blue flowers called ‘Snow Gentian’. The flowers are locally known as ‘the blue eyes of Christ’ and grow all over Norway but grow abundantly in this area. They represent the three main settlements of the municipality: Aurdal, Fagernes, and Leira. This is a fairly mountainous municipality. The highest point is 1,325m (4,347ft) high and about 50% of the land is above 900m (3000ft).

    Aurdal
    Village

    Aurdal is a small village with a population of around 647. The village is known for its winter sports activities and is in Valdres’ Alpine Centre. There are several places to stay and eat. There used to be a railway here – the Valdresbanen – but it stopped in 1888. 

    Just after Aurdal is the Noraker Gård. This farm is currently being run by the 12th century. Rakfisk is a highly desirable food from this farm, and in 2022 they won the expert jury award at the Norwegian Rakfisk Festival. In 2006, Rakfisk from Valdres was approved as a protected geographical indication. This means that only fish hatched, reared, and processed in Valdres can be sold under the Rakfisk fra Valdres brand. 

    They have a farm shop that also sells trout, mustard, beer, moose, goat, and art. 

    Rakfisk is a dish made from trout or char where it is salted and autolyzed for two or three months. It is then eaten without cooking and has a strong smell and pungen salty flavour. After the fish is gutted and rinsed, it is placed in a bucket and salt. It is then placed under pressure with a lid that fits down into the bucket and a weight on top. A brine is formed as the salt draws moisture from the fish. The rakfisk bucket is stored at under 5 degreesC for one to three months. The finished product doesn’t need cooking. 

    Fagernes

    Fagernes is a major hub along the E16.

    The word ‘Fagernes’ is a combination of ‘fager’ (beautiful) and ‘nes’ (headland). The town was established in 1857, when the first trading operations started. The first hotel started operations in 1875, and from 1906 there was a train line (it has since closed). 

    If you are travelling in November, you may be in town for the Norwegian Rakfisk Festival, which takes place in the first week of the month. 

    In Fagernes is the Valdres Folkmuseum, a well-known museum that shows the culture of the Valdres region. It is both an indoor and outdoor museum. 

    Fagernes Travel Guide

    Ulnes Church

    Historic Church

    Ulnes Church is a beautiful church that you’ll pass shortly after leaving Fagernes. The earliest records of the church go back to 1307, but it was not new that year. Estimates say that the church was built around the year 1265 as its architecture reflects the transition between Romanesque and Gothic architecture. 

    In 1675, there were plans to replace it with a new wooden church as it was decaying, but thankfully that didn’t happen. Around 1720, the church was put out of use. It was described in 1733 by a bishop as “a pile of stones” with only the choir being suitable to keep. The church was restored in 1737, with the nave being demolished and rebuilt. The interior was also refurbished. 

    Vestre Slidre Municipality

    The next municipality is Vestre Slidre. The municipality is partly named after the historic Slidre Church, which you’ll see soon. The coat-of-arms are based on a heraldic decoration found in the Slidredomen church that dates to 1170. The design was originally part of a seal that belonged to a medieval nobleman in the area. The meaning of the design is unknown. 

    Vestre Slidre is mentioned in the Old Norse sagas. Harald Fairhair, who became the first King of Norway (872-930), did some conquests over petty kingdoms. One of the encounters that led to the overall conquest was with Skallagrim Kveldulvssøn in Vestre Slidre. Also, in 1023, King Olav Haraldsson came to the area to Christianise the people. The locals were caught unaware, and Olav took all their boats. They would only get them back if they accepted Christianity, which they did. 

    Lastly, in 2000 Sami gamme huts (a simple form of a hut) were found in the municipality. This is the southernmost discovery of Sami settlements.

    Slidre

    Village

    Slidre is the next village on the E16. It has a population of around 337. 

    In Slidre you can see the Vestre Slidre Church (Slidredomen), a historic stone church from around 1170. The church is built in the Romanesque style of architecture and the stone walls are approximately 160cm (63 inches) thick. 

    The church is unique in that it doesn’t have a west portal. Instead, the main entrance is from the south.

    The furniture is from the 18th century, while there are frescoes from the 15th century. The choir has a painted wooden vault from the 14th century, which depicts Jesus Christ in the mandorla centrally in the middle. On the north wall, a medieval coat-of-arms has been uncovered and is used as Vestre Slidre’s coat-of-arms. 

    The area here is very old. Above the village of Slidre is an ancient burial ground called the ‘Gardberg Site’. Here you can see the Einangsteinen runestone. It is believed to be from the 4th century and is considered the oldest runestone in the Nordics that is standing in its original place. The name Einang comes from a nearby farm. 

    Lomen Stave Church

    Lomen Stave Church is from around the year 1192. The church is a pillar stave church, meaning the main room has four supporting stave beams. The style and decoration of the church is part of the “Valdres-Sogn” stave churches. This groups many of the churches from Valdres Valley and around the Sognefjord that have the same features. Considering the old King’s Road used to run through the valley to Sogn, they likely shared design tips.

    Like all stave churches, Lomen Stave Chuch has fallen victim to modernisation and renovation. The choir is from a major renovation in the 1750s. During this time, the walls were also expanded to make the main room larger.

    During the last refurbishment, archaeological excavations uncovered 71 artefacts, including jewellery and coins. The oldest coin found here is from King Sverre’s time, 1177-1202.

    Today the church, neighbouring bell tower and cemetery are under protection. Many original features of the church remain, despite major renovations. The most illustrative are the portals, which have decorations of dragons, vines, and animal heads. Some of the portals have moved around the church, but they do date back to medieval times. These kinds of decorations are common on Valdres-Sogn stave churches. The roof and wall timbers are also original.

    Lomen Stave Church

    Vang Municipality

    Vang is a small municipality in the traditional Valdres region. The name comes from an old farm, though vang comes from the Old Norse word vangr meaning ‘field’ or ‘meadow’. The coat-of-arms are rather special – they are based on historic descriptions and depictions of the personal arms of a local medieval nobleman called Sigvat of Leirhol. He was named as one of the members of the delegation that followed King Håkon V Magnusson to Copenhagen in 1309. He then became the governor of Valdres. His coat-of-arms can also be seen on Vang Church. 

    The municipality was originally populated by migrants from Western Norway. 

    The ancient Vang Church was the site of a legal court held by King Håkon VI in 1368. 

    Høre Stave Church

    Høre Stave Church is one of the stave churches with an insight into the fascinating past of Norway. Especially around and shortly after the time of the Civil War in the 12th and early 13th century. We know that the Christianisation of Valdres wasn’t easy. St. Olav, then King Olav, came from the west through the valley. He held farmers hostage and burnt down farms until they agreed to convert. According to the Sagas, Olav had churches built and clergymen appointed. None of these churches remains, but many of the stave churches are on the same spot, including Høre Stave Church.

    In medieval times, Valdres had many churches. There were at least 21 of them; 18 of which were stave churches. To compare, the neighbouring valley Hallingdal had 8 stave churches. Sadly very few remain today. 

    Judging from the rune inscriptions found inside the church and dating the timber, Høre Stave Church is from around 1179. It was originally a pillar church, with four corner staves. Under the church are graves, some of them children. It wasn’t allowed but common to bury children under stave churches. As they had not been baptised yet, the parents worried the children would not be accepted into heaven. Some foetuses were also found under the church. There is evidence of ceremonial burials under the church, likely from pre-Christian times.

    The original stave church somewhat exists today; all that remains is its skeleton. The skeleton is hidden by the cladding. The ship is still the original size, giving a sign of the original size of the church room.

    Høre Stave Church

    Vang i Valdres

    The word ‘vang’ comes from an old farm that stood here; this farm is also where the first church stood. Vang, like the rest of the Valdres Valley, was populated by migrants from Western Norway. People have lived in this valley (Vangr means meadow or field) for thousands of years. This is likely due to its proximity between east and west Norway. Vang is by a lake just before the mountain pass to Western Norway and thus made for a good rest stop.

    Vang became the site of a legal court (ting in Norwegian), and the ancient stave church was next to the site. The site was famously used by King Haakon VI in 1368 when he was settling a boundary dispute.

    Vang also became part of the ancient royal road between Bergen and Oslo. In the 16th century, it was the postal road, and from the 18th century, it was Kongevegen. Kongevegen was the first road for horse and cart between East and West, and I’ve covered it on my page for the E16. Today, the highway follows the same path as Kongevegen. Still, the town and nearby area became a place where travellers would seek refuge at some point on their journey. 

    The Vang Stone is clearly marked and is by the E16. Parking is available across the street. 

    The Vang Stone

    Øye Stave Church

    Øye Stave Church is one of the smallest and oldest stave churches in Norway. It is likely from some time during the second half of the 12th century. The church is first mentioned in written documents in 1347. It stood by the old traffic road over Filefjell, which was the first road between Bergen and Oslo.

    Øye Stave Church

    Kongevegen

    Historic Road

    As you may have noticed by now, there are a number of churches and important historic sites along the E16. This is because the E16 follows one of the ancient crossings between east and west Norway. It is called ‘Kongevegen’ (The Kings Road). The road is ancient and is believed to have been the first way between east and west. The first postal road was laid here in 1647, and the road received official status in 1791. 

    Ever since people have lived in Norway has this been the most useful route between east and east. A number of tracks show traffic throughout the Stone Age and Bronze Age. The road was also important in the Christianisation of Norway, as is evident in the large number of churches along the road. Many ancient farms here also became inns for travellers, and some survive today. In the Middle Ages, the road was known as the most difficult and dangerous in the country. As many Danish public servants were travelling between Bergen and Christiania (Oslo), it was decided to modernize the road in the 17th century. The road was built as straight as possible and became known as the Royal Postal Road. Most of the trip was done on foot. 

    In the 18th century, travelling with horse and carriage became more common, so it was decided to modernise the road again. In 1791, the official road was completed and Kongevegen became the first carriage road between east and west Norway. The road was built by hand. Today the E16 skips many of the most difficult parts with tunnels, but parts of the old road remain and are now a popular hiking trail. In 2017, Kongevegen was awarded the EU’s most important cultural heritage award, Europa Nostra. 

    It is possible to spend the night in one of the many lodges over the mountains and do short or long hikes. 

    Tyinkrysset

    Village

    Tyinkrysset is a village located in the Filefjell mountains, which is where the historic crossing between east and west Norway was. The village sits at an elevation of around 900 metres (3,000 feet). This area is popular with hikers. You’ll find some hotels up in the area. 

    Filefjellet Mountains

    Mountains

    You are now crossing the Filefjellet mountain range across to Western Norway. It has been an important crossing path between east and west Norway since ancient times. The highest peaks are 1013m above sea level. 

    The E16 follows a lot of the same path as the old road. 

    Lærdal Municipality

    Lærdal is the first municipality in Vestland county. Lærdal has a dry climate, with 420mm – 600mm of rainfall annually in the inhabited areas. Through the valley runs the Lærdalselvi, or the Laerdal River, known as the ‘Queen of the Salmon Rivers’. It is one of the country’s most famous large salmon rivers. The valleys have opportunities for hunting deer, reindeer, and elk. The valley was inhabited and used by humans as far back as 6,000 years ago. In places, the vally has been used since the Early Stone Age. In the mountains are the first traces of people in the mountain areas of Norway.

    Lærdal has always been the main road between east and west Norway. The area where the village Lærdalsøyri is developed as a marketplace in the Middle Ages. Coastal farmers brought herring and fish and exchanged goods with mountain farmers from Valdres. At least five generations of road structure remain in the Lærdal valley, which proves the valleys important function as a hub. Lærdal has a long tradition with agriculture. The lower part of the valley has one of the country’s best climatic conditions for growing vegetables. Early production of potatoes and vegetables is important. 

    Borlaug

    Village

    The next village is Borlaug. This is where the E16 joins with Highway 52, which runs over the Hemsedal mountains (it’s an alternative way between Oslo and Bergen). You’ll pass some old farmhouses on the right as you drive through the village. 

    Borgund

    Village

    Borgund is a mountain village. It has been an important spot on the journey between east and west Norway for hundreds of years. There are several farms in the village and agriculture is the main industry here. 

    Borgund Stave Church

    Borgund Stave Church is the most famous of Norway’s 28 remaining stave churches. The exact age of Borgund Stave Church is unknown. It is possibly as old as 1150 when looking at the timber. However, the church is generally regarded as being from around the year 1200. It is dedicated to the apostle Andrew.

    The church is fascinating; a visit to it should not be missed. The church is open in the summer for tourists for a small fee. Check their website for more information. 

    Borgund Stave Church

    Lærdal

    You will bypass the village of Lærdal on the E16, but it’s a worthwhile detour to drive into the village. Lærdal is a historic trading place on the old postal route between Oslo and Bergen. It was where the travellers would leave their horses behind and take boats the rest of the way to Bergen. Lærdal is also a fantastic place for trying the foods from the Sognefjord region, including potatoes, berries, and cider. 

    You can read about Lærdal on our dedicated travel guide page. 

    Lærdal Travel Guide

    Aurlandsfjellet Tourist Road

    In the summer months, it’s possible to take the Aurlandsfjellet Tourist Road across to Aurland instead of going through the tunnel. 

    Aurlandsfjellet Tourist Road

    Lærdal Tunnel

    Tunnel

    Welcome to the world’s longest road tunnel! The Lærdal Tunnel is 24.5km (15.2 miles) long. The tunnel was constructed between 1995 and 2000 and cost $113 million USD. The tunnel does not have emergency exits; there are emergency phones every 250 metres as well as 15 turning areas for buses and semi-trailers. There are rooms in the tunnel with food and supplies in case anyone gets stuck in there. The tunnel has high air quality through ventilation and purification. 

    It incorporates features to help manage the mental strain on drivers. Every 6km there is a cave to separate sections of the road. The lighting varies throughout the tunnel and caves to break the routine.

    Aurland Municipality

    Aurland municipality is perhaps one of the most visited municipalities in Norway. After all, it is home to the famous Flåm village as well as the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Nærøyfjord. The main industry in Aurland is agriculture, with goats’ cheese being an important product from here. Tourism is also a major industry. 

    Aurland

    It is worth driving into the village of Aurland. In many ways, it is more charming than Flåm. Aurland is home to Vangen Church, a historic stone church from 1202. The fact that it is built in stone and not wood signifies that the area must’ve been of importance around the time it was built. Aurland is also home to the Aurland Shoe Factory, where the pennyloafer was invented.

    Aurland Travel Guide

    Flåm

    Located at the end of the Aurlandfjord, a branch of the Sognefjord, Flåm is a gorgeous little village. Many people come to Flåm to do the Flåm Railway, regarded as the most beautiful train journey in the world. This train journey goes from Flåm through the valley and up the mountains to Myrdal, located close to the Hardangervidda National park. Myrdal is also where you board the train to Bergen or Oslo. Besides the train ride, there’s a gorgeous ferry journey from Flåm to Gudvangen. It takes you on the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Nærøyfjord – something you shouldn’t miss.

    Flåm has a population of 350, though on a summer day there will be several thousand people in the village. Seriously. The Flåm Railway has become incredibly popular – it’s sold out months in advance. Additionally, Flåm is becoming a major cruise port.

    Flåm Travel Guide

    Gudvangen

    Village

    Gudvangen is a small village with a population of around 120. It is a popular tourist destination due to its proximity at the end of the Nærøyfjord. The popular Gudvangen – Flåm cruise stops here, and many people also come to visit the Viking Village in Gudvangen. The Viking Village is a recreated village as Gudvangen is believed to have been an important trading place for the Vikings. 

    It is worth driving into Gudvangen (approx 5 mins off the E16) and stopping in front of the Nærøyfjord. The Nærøyfjord is the narrowest branch of the Sognefjord, only 250 metres at its narrowest and 12 metres at its shallowest. The fjord is 20km long. It is UNESCO World Heritage-listed as it is one of the best representations of what a fjord looks like.

    Stalheim Hotel & Stalheimskleiva

    Historic Hotel

    The site where the hotel is has been an important place for hundreds of years. When the Royal Postal Road between Oslo and Bergen was established in the 17th century, this hotel was where the postal workers would stop to rest. 

    The hotel as it is known today opened in 1885 with 10 rooms. The hotel burned down in 1900, 1902 and 1959. The current hotel building you see today is from after the 1959 fire. Today the hotel is a high-end historic hotel where many famous people have stayed. It also has arguably one of the best views of any hotel in Norway, but good luck trying to see it. They don’t allow visitors to come in and take pictures without paying or having coffee. 

    Stalheimskleiva is a 1.5km (1 mile) stretch of road that leads from Stalheim Hotel down to sea level towards the Nærøyfjord. It was one of the country’s first roads built according to the new road engineering requirements that came around 1850, the so-called chaussee, with a maximum gradient of 1:20. Around 1,000 men built the road over 7 years. The road was a motorway for cars going in both directions, which was of course dangerous. It was eventually replaced with the two tunnels you’ll be driving through. The road then became a one-way tourist road, however in 2020 part of the road was in danger of collapsing due to landslide. In 2021, the road closed for all motor vehicles for the foreseeable future. This is due to the poor condition of the road and the extensive damage done by traffic. The road is on the conservation plan, so it’s being repaired and may become a hiking trail instead. 

    Across from the Stalheim Hotel is an open-air museum with farmhouses collected from the area. There are also a number of hiking trails starting from around the hotel, so it could be a good option for spending the night. 

    Voss Municipality

    Voss municipality is an inland municipality with about 90% of the area mountains over 300m (1000ft) above sea level. Because of that, the municipality is a popular place for people from Bergen to go skiing. Voss is home to the largest ski resorts in Western Norway. The area has been settled for at least 3,000 years, with people coming here for the rich valleys, waters, and animal life. Voss was also largely an isolated municipality, meaning it has kept its own unique culture and traditions. 

    Oppheim Lake

    Lake

    After leaving Gudvangen, you will drive up the Nærøy Valley. This is part of the UNESCO World Heritage area. The stone they are mining here is anorthosite, a rare stone found in large amounts in this valley. The stone is typically used on the roads because it is reflective. 

    The drive through the valley is short; you will then take two tunnels to get up the mountain. However, before you get into the tunnels, you will see a red hotel and a hairpin-turn road on the hillside. 

    As you drive along the lake, you’ll drive through the village of Oppheim and past the Oppheim Church. 

    Vinje

    Village

    Vinje is a small village located at the junction of the E16 and the Rv13, which runs over the Vikafjellet mountains to Vik by the Sognefjord. This is a long but beautiful detour; the road does close in winter, though. In Vik you’ll find the Hopperstad Stave Church (one of Norway’s 28 remaining stave churches) as well as some other historic buildings. 

    Tvindefossen

    Waterfall

    It is worth stopping and taking some photos of Tvindefossen Waterfall. It will be clearly marked with signs as you approach it. The waterfall is 152m high and has two streams (tvinde=twin). In the late 1990s, the waterfall acquired a reputation for having special powers of reviving sexual potency, so it became common to see visitors from the U.S., Japan and Russia visiting and filling containers with water. 

    Voss

    If you are following the E16, you will take a bypass and not see Voss at all. It is possible to drive into Voss, park by the lake, and see some of the town. 

    Voss has a population of around 14,000 people. The town is known for its cultural traditions in folk music, art, handicrafts, and traditional foods. Voss sits on the shore of the lake Vangsvatnet.

    During World War II, the town was bombed by the Luftwaffe and almost all the buildings were destroyed. 

    In Voss it’s worth visiting Voss Church. According to legend, the people of Voss was forced to convert to Christianity by King Olav (later Saint Olav). A stone cross can be seen by the lake which is believed to have been erected by St. Olav himself. The church was built in 1277 and is one of the only buildings to survive World War II. 

    In Voss you can do the Voss gondola to the top of the mountain, where the open-air museum is. 

    Voss Travel Guide

    Evanger

    Village

    Evanger has a well-preserved village centre that is believed to be one of the better-preserved villages in the area. Most of the wooden houses are from the late 19th/early 20th centuries. Evanger is known for its production of cured meat because the village is home to several companies that specialise in the production of traditional meats such as pinnekjøtt (dried, salted rib of lamb), cured lamb, and sausages. 

    Bolstadøyri

    Village

    Bolstadøyri is located at the end of the fjord. When the old postal road came through here, this is the point where the workers would leave their horses and take a boat to Bergen. This has always been an important meeting place for the courts as well as a trading post. 

    Vaksdal Municipality

    Vaksdal is a small industrial municipality in Western Norway. The coat-of-arms show three black shuttles for weaving. The shuttles were chosen to represent the textile industry of the municipality. The municipality is located alongside the fjord and is also very mountainous. 

    Dale

    Village

    Dale is a small industrial village with a population of around 1,100. The village was built around the Dale power planet and factory that were founded and constructed in the 1870s. The machines were brought over by boat from England – carding machines, spinning machines and 200 looms, as well as finishing and dyeing machines. When the factory was built, there was only a homestead here. However, by the end of the 19th century the factory had 500 employees and the village had 1,000 inhabitants. At its peak in the 1950s and 1960s, Dale had a population of 4,000. 

    Dale is where the Dale of Norway company is based. This is arguably Norway’s most famous textiles company. They make the sweaters for the Norwegian Olympics Team and are known for their classic patterns. There is an outlet store in Dale, if you wish to visit that. 

    Osterøy

    Island

    Soon you will reach the wider part of the Osterfjord, which you will follow for the journey into Bergen. Across the fjord is an island called Osterøy. Osterøy is the largest inland island in Norway at around 330km2. Around 8,000 people live on the island and it is largely an agricultural island. You’ll see the bridge to the island soon.

    Vaksdal

    Village

    Vaksdal is a small village located on the fjord. Like Dale, it is an industrial town. In the late 19th century, the Vaksdal Mølle (Mill) opened here, utilising the hydropower in the region. This is where flour would be made. At the time it was built, it was the largest mill in Northern Europe. 

    Bergen Municipality

    Welcome to Bergen! We are now on the outskirts of Bergen municipality. 

    Trengereid

    Village

    Trengereid is the next village you will pass on your way into Bergen. Like the other villages along the fjord, Trengereid was established in the late 19th century around a factory. The factory (Trengereid Fabrikker) specialised in ribbon and lace production. 

    In Trengereid you will see the round-a-bout that leads off to the Hardangerfjord and Hardanger Tourist Road. However, you have been driving from Oslo, so probably save that for a separate road-trip. 

    Arna

    Village

    Arna is one of Bergen’s eight districts and was incorporated into the city in 1972. Around 14,000 people live in Arna and are connected to the city centre of Bergen by the railway. The train between Bergen and Arna takes only 10 minutes as it cuts through the mountain Ulriken; the road follows the coastline and takes 30 minutes to get to the same place. 

    Bergen

    Welcome to Bergen! Bergen is Norway’s second-largest city and is regarded as the Capital of the Fjords. 

    Bergen Travel Guide

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Oslo, Where to Stay

    Where to Stay in Oslo (From a Tour Leaders Perspective)

    Where to Stay in Oslo (From a Tour Leaders Perspective)

    Welcome to Oslo! I’ve been to Oslo so many times and stayed in so many hotels, so I can understand that it may be a little overwhelming picking where to stay in Oslo. There are so many options, so many chains, and so many good locations to stay in. So, I’ve put together a list of some of the hotels that I recommend in Oslo, divided by region and price range. It’s tricky finding accommodation in Oslo for less than 1000 NOK a night, so don’t expect to come here on a budget.

    Here’s how I divide according to price:

    • High end: 1500 NOK a night and above
    • Mid range: 1000-1500 NOK a night
    • Budget friendly: Less than 1000 NOK a night

    Here’s my guide on where to stay in Oslo.

    In this article...

    Oslo Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Be sure to check out our Oslo travel guide! Here you can find all our recommendations of things to do and see, including our self-guided walks. 

    Central Station & Bjørvika

    Why Stay Here?

    Staying close to Central Station is certainly convenient, especially if you will be taking the train onwards to somewhere else in Norway. It also makes arriving from the airport very easy. The area of Bjørvika is part of the new urban development around the Oslofjord, and here you’ll find brand-new cafes, restaurants, bars and the Munch Museum, library, and opera house. Attend a show at the Opera House, have coffee in the new library, or explore the ’Barcode’ skyscaprers. If you want to head out for a walk, the historic area Gamle Oslo and the sculpture park Ekeberg are close by.

    High End

    Amerikalinjen

    This is one of Oslo’s most famous hotels. The hotel is in the old headquarters for the Norwegian America Cruise Line, and the hotel has recently undergone a major renovation. There is a bar inspired by New York, or you can listen to live jazz. The hotel also does comedy nights in both Norwegian and English.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Clarion Hotel Oslo

    Located in the trendy Barcode area, this new hotel is beautiful and modern. Clarion is a great chain to stay at in Norway; they offer free light dinners every evening. The hotel opened in 2020 and is approximately halfway between the Munch Museum and the Opera House. The Shutter Bar has food and drinks, and during summer there is an outdoor terrace. The hotel has a gallery inside as well.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Mid Range

    Clarion Hotel The Hub

    This is one of the newer hotels in Oslo. It is also located across the street from Central Station, so is one of the nicer options if you want to stay close to the train. The hotel is massive and has a nice bar on the top floor. The breakfast is also one of the best in Oslo.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Scandic Byporten

    I enjoyed staying at this hotel. The rooms are excellent and it’s located within the Byporten shopping centre, which you can use to access central station without having to go outside.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Thon Hotel Opera

    The rooms are a little small, but the hotel has excellent amenities and is in a wonderful location. It is a popular hotel for conferences and groups, so expect it to be a little busy.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Budget Friendly

    City Box Oslo

    This is a no-nonsense hotel right in the heart of the city. They cut costs by not having a reception or cleaning service (unless you request it), but the rooms have everything that you need and are perfect if you don’t plan on spending much time in your room.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Karl Johan Gate

    Why Stay Here?

    Karl Johan Gate is the main street running through Oslo, so of course it’s convenient to be located close by. However, I don’t recommend staying on the street itself; it’s good to stay a block behind it. The street gets very crowded in the summer months, so it doesn’t always feel nice to walk down there. However, it is the centre of the city and a good place to base yourself so you can get out and explore Oslo.

    High End

    Grand Hotel Oslo

    Located on Karl Johans Gate (in a nice and not-too-crowded part) just across the street from the Norwegian Parliament, this historic hotel is home to the Grand Café, where Henrik Ibsen would go for lunch every day. Every year the Nobel Peace Prize winner stays in this hotel. Some of the world’s most notable people including Charlie Chaplin and Dwight Eisenhower, have stayed here. It is considered one of the best hotels in Norway. If you can’t afford it, just visit for a coffee in the Grand Café.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Hotel Bristol

    This is a high-end hotel in a historic building. The suites are named after famous people from all across Europe who have previously stayed in the hotel. The hotel is styled in a 1920s art deco way, and the rooms are of good size.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Hotel Christiania Theatre

    This boutique hotel is tucked in between the City Hall and the National Theatre, and the building itself used to be a theatre. The hotel has been designed in a style to reflect its theatre past. The basic rooms include TVs, minibars, WiFi, and rainwater showers.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Mid Range

    Thon Hotel Rosenkrantz

    This hotel may look a little dull from the outside, but it has won awards for its design inside. The hotel also claims to have the best breakfast in Oslo, so maybe it is worth staying there.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Thon Hotel Cecil

    Located just off the park and Norwegian parliament, the Thon Hotel Cecil is in an excellent location. The rooms are decent sized and the breakfast is also excellent.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Scandic Victoria

    This is about as budget as it gets for staying around Karl Johans gate. It’s only across the street from the Grand Hotel but is half the price. Of course, it is not as extravagant, but it has everything that you need. The hotel is roughly halfway between Karl Johan Gate and Aker Brygge, so it’s centrally located for Oslo’s top attractions.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Budget Friendly

    K7 Hotel Oslo is one of the only budget options close to Karl Johan Gate. The hotel has single rooms or dorm rooms; only the dorm rooms fit into our ‘budget’ category.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Around Aker Brygge

    Why Stay Here?

    Aker Brygge was the first part of the Oslofjord area to be redeveloped and is now a string of trendy bars, restaurants and cafes with a variety of different cuisines that’ll keep you busy during your stay. Aker Brygge is also where Norway’s National Museum (The Scream by Edvard Munch is here!) is located, as well as the Nobel Peace Centre and Astrup Fearnley Gallery.

    High End

    The Thief

    The Thief is a luxury hotel in the trendy area of Tjuvholmen. The walls are covered in contemporary artwork, the rooms have designer furniture, and there are high end restaurants. The hotel also has a spa and pool area.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Mid Range

    Oslo Guldsmeden

    This hotel is an eco-friendly boutique hotel just a couple blocks from Aker BRygge. The style of this hotel is completely unique, with wooden four-poster beds, faux-fur cushions, and throws, tvs, wifi, and contemporary bathrooms.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Thon Hotel Vika Atrium

    This hotel is just within our mid-range category; most rooms would be classified as high end. The reason for the price is location, not amenities. It is very similar to other Thon hotels.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Around the Royal Palace

    Why Stay Here?

    The Royal Palace is a beautiful location to stay in Oslo. The Palace Park is perfect for your morning or evening walks, and the whole area feels less hectic than other parts of the city. The Historical Museum is located here, where you can see the only Viking helmet ever found. From here you can also enjoy a scenic 40 minute walk to the Vigeland Sculpture Park, or just hop on the tram.

    High End

    Camilla’s Hus

    This boutique hotel is in a villa from 1845. There are only seven rooms, giving a very nice B&B feel. The Camilla in the name refers to the house’s first resident, Camilla Collet, a prominent author, and women’s rights activist.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Mid Range

    Thon Hotel Europa

    The Thon Hotel Europa is part of the Thon chain of hotels. The rooms are large considering their location in the inner part of Oslo, and you are just across the street from the Royal Palace.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Radisson Blu Scandinavia Hotel

    This four-star hotel is a little nicer than the Thon Hotel Europa across the street, but it is considerably larger.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Budget Friendly

    Cochs Pensjonat

    Cochs Pensjonat has been operating for over 100 years and offers very affordable rooms just across the street from the Royal Palace. The rooms are simple but have everything that you need.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Around Grunerlokka

    Why Stay Here?

    Grunerlokka is a very cool neighbourhood. It only takes 20 minutes to walk to the city centre, but out here in Grunerlokka you have the incredible Akerselva walk, Mathallen food hall, and you can easily reach Damstredet and the Gamle Aker Church. If you’re looking to get away from the busy Oslo city centre, this is a great alternative.

    Mid Range

    Scandic Vulkan

    Located just above Mathallen, this hotel is excellent if you want to enjoy more of the hipster area. It’s only a 20-minute walk to Karl Johan Gate, meaning you aren’t that far from the city centre but still get to enjoy the feeling of being in a neighbourhood. The hotel is heated by geothermal energy. The rooms have what you need.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Budget Friendly

    Anker Hostel

    Anker Hostel is one of the cheaper options in Oslo. The rooms look so bare they could almost be prison cells, but they have everything you need and are a good option if you just want a place to sleep and spend your money on other things.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Oslo Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Be sure to check out our Oslo travel guide! Here you can find all our recommendations of things to do and see, including our self-guided walks. 

    Around Oslo

    Thon Hotel Snø

    Outside Oslo city centre is a facility called Snø, where you can ski inside all year round! There is a Thon Hotel connected to the building, so you can stay on site and ski as much as you like. Nothing more Norwegian than this!

    Click here for their website. 

  • Bergen, Where to Stay

    Where to Stay in Bergen From a Locals Perspective

    Where to Stay in Bergen From a Locals Perspective

    So you are planning a trip to Bergen – excellent! We think that Bergen is the best city in Norway, but I must admit that we also have some bias here. It is, after all, our home city. Still, no trip to Norway is complete without a visit to Bergen.

    In this guide I’ve put together a list of the best hotels to stay at in Bergen. This is based on my years of tour guiding experience, feedback from groups, and also places that I’ve stayed at myself.

    The list is divided into parts of the city and then again into different grades of hotel. They are as follows:

    • High end: 1500+ NOK a night
    • Mid-range: 1000 – 1500 NOK a night
    • Budget: Less than 1000 NOK a night

    Here’s my top list of places to stay in Bergen, sorted by area.

    In this article...

    Bergen Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Be sure to check out our Bergen travel guide! Here you can find all our recommendations of things to do and see, including our self-guided walks. 

    Bryggen

    Why Stay Here?

    Okay, so Bryggen is of course one of the most popular places to stay in Bergen. Bryggen is Bergen’s UNESCO World Heritage site. Located approximately 10 minutes from the city centre, Bryggen is where you’ll find several museums as well as Bergen’s best Norwegian restaurants. It is close to everything you need: museums, restaurants, shops, hikes and scenic points. While it is a bit of a walk from public transport and the city centre, if you are interested in Bryggen then this is the place to stay.

    Of course, being the most popular place in town means there aren’t too many budget options.

    High End

    • Clarion Havnekontoret.
    • This hotel has beautiful views out to the harbour as well as parking and an amazing breakfast. They also offer light dinners for free. Within a minute walk is St. Mary’s Church, the Bryggens Museum and Bryggen. Both this hotel and the Radisson Blu have the airport bus leave right outside. Check Availability & Prices
    •  
    • Radisson Blu Hotel
    • The Radisson Blu Hotel is a gorgeous hotel located just seconds from Bryggen. The breakfast is delicious! Note that often there are conferences here, so it can sometimes feel a little busy. Check Availability & Prices
    •  
    • Hanseatic Hotel Bergen – top pick! If you want to get away from chain hotels then the Hanseatic Hotel is for you. Most of the hotel is situated inside the historic wooden houses of Bryggen, meaning your room has a clear rustic feel. There are also very few rooms here, giving the hotel a boutique feel.
    •  
    • Bergen Harbour Hotel
    • I’ve heard a lot of good about Bergen Harbour Hotel. It has modern rooms and is a relatively small hotel, so there’s certainly a personal touch to it. Check Availability & Prices

    Mid Range

    Thon Orion

    I do like the Thon Orion. In fact, it is the hotel I stayed in when I first came to Norway back in 2011. The hotel has had a major renovation since then. Thon Hotels are typically known for their good breakfasts. The hotel is approximately halfway between the fortress and Bryggen. Check Availability & Prices

    Thon Rosenkrantz

    The rooms are a little on the small side, but that’s okay because you’ll be out exploring Bergen! The staff at this hotel are lovely; I haven’t had a bad experience here. it is also one block behind Bryggen, so you’re away from a lot of the crowds. No public transport close by, but you’re a block from the taxi rank outside the funicular station. Check Availability & Prices

    Around the City & Train Station

    In this part of the city you’ll find some of Bergen’s major landmarks, shopping centres, restaurants and part of the university. The city still keeps its small-town charm; there are no skyscrapers or busy streets here. Staying in the city centre has its advantages; Bryggen can get crowded in the summer months and the city centre has all the public transport connections. It is also centrally located, meaning you can get around Bergen easily.

    High End

    Hotel Norge by Scandic

    The newly renovated Hotel Norge has beautiful rooms with views out to the city as well as free breakfast, private parking, and an upscale spa. The hotel is close to the airport bus and light rail, making it easy to get in and out of Bergen. It’s very fancy – sometimes a little too fancy for a travellers liking – and I found the cheaper rooms were tiny. Check Availability & Prices

    Opus XVI

    Opus XVI is owned by the descendants of Edvard Grieg. The building dates from 1876 and used to be the bank. The rooms are incredible, as is the lobby (they’ve preserved most of the old bank), and I’ve always found the staff to be friendly. Check Availability & Prices

    Bergen Børs Hotel

    The Bergen Børs Hotel was formerly a stock exchange. One of Bergen’s two Michelin star restaurants, Bare, is located inside the building. The hotel itself is huge and is used by groups, so it can feel a little crowded. Check Availability & Prices

    Hotel Skostredet

    This is Bergen’s newest hotel, and it looks wonderful! Hotel Skostredet, which opened in June 2024, combines Scandinavian minimalism with Japanese finesse to create a 5* luxury feel. Inside the hotel is a high-end sushi bar. Check Availability & Prices

    Mid Range

    • Zander K Hotel
    • This hotel is located across the street from Bergen train station, so it’s perfect if you are coming in or out of Bergen by train. It’s a 15 minute walk to Bryggen and only a 5 minute walk to the city park. I’ve only ever heard good things about this hotel. Check Availability & Prices
    •  
    • Scandic Ørnen
    • Scandic Ørnen is located only a few minutes from the city park and it’s across the street from Bergen’s largest shopping centre. Scandic’s are a reliable hotel chain in Norway – all of them are pretty much the same and they are all pretty great. There’s no frills in the room, but that’s fine. Check Availability & Prices
    •  
    • Scandic Byparken
    • The hotel is a little smaller and in a slightly odd part of town – there’s not much here but the main bus road, but the city park is only a block away. Check Availability & Prices
    •  
    • Magic Hotel Xhibition
    • Magic Hotel is located in a shopping centre, and honestly I kind of like staying in shopping centres sometimes – especially if I’m travelling alone and on a budget. It’s a quick way to grab a meal! Rooms are small but have what you need. Check Availability & Prices

    Budget

    • Bergen Budget Hostel
    • The train station is just a five minute walk away. The rooms look nice and clean, and the location itself is pretty good.
    •  
    • Citybox Bergen
    • Citybox is a chain of budget friendly hotels in Norway. There is no breakfast included, but the rooms are cosy. To keep the costs down, there’s no standard reception or cleaning service. Rather the keys are kept in a safe place and you check yourself in and out. Check Availability & Prices
    • Marken Guestehus
    • Marken Gjestehus is a no-frills hostel with shared rooms for only 250 NOK a night, which is a bargain in Norway. There’s a common living area and kitchen, so it has everything you need.

    Nordnes

    Nordnes is the peninsula that separates the Bergen harbour into two. The peninsula is home to trendy bars and cafes and is also where some of the oldest houses in Bergen city centre are located. Close by is the aquarium, Nordnes park, and the charming alleys.

    High End

    Clarion Admiral

    This hotel is beautiful and definitely one of my top picks for a stay in Bergen. Here you can look out to Bryggen as you have breakfast! The rooms are very cozy. Check Availability & Prices

    Mid Range

    • Comfort Hotel Bergen
    • The Nordic Hotel chain is a fairly decent chain to stay with. I’ve had mixed stays with them; in general the rooms are fairly simple. Still, breakfast is included and this one is in a great location. This part of Nordnes is nice and quiet but it’s only a short walk to the city centre. Check Availability & Prices
    •  
    • Heimen Hotel
    • This hotel has just had a new renovation and looks very charming inside. Check Availability & Prices
    •  
      Best Western Hotell Hordheimen
    • This is a nice hotel within Nordnes. Hot breakfast is complimentary. There’s also a traditional restaurant and a coffee shop, plus guest laundry facilities – finding a laundry in a hotel in Norway is something of a luxury in itself. Check Availability & Prices

     

    Budget Friendly

    Klosterhagen Hotel

    Located in arguably one of the most beautiful spots in Nordnes, Klosterhagen is a unique independent hotel. There are only 15 guest-rooms with private bathrooms and a home cooked breakfast. The hotel hires people who are training to work in the hotel industry; perhaps they have had a rough past but are now looking to change their lives. Check Availability & Prices

    Final Thoughts on Where to Stay in Bergen

    These are my top picks for hotels in Bergen. All of them are in good locations and have a lot of facilities included, ensuring that your stay in Bergen is relaxing.

    Enjoy your stay in Bergen!

    Bergen Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Be sure to check out our Bergen travel guide! Here you can find all our recommendations of things to do and see, including our self-guided walks. 

  • Copenhagen, Walking Guides

    Kongens Nytorv, Nyhavn & Amalienborg: A Self-Guided Walk in Copenhagen

    Kongens Nytorv, Nyhavn & Amalienborg: A Self-Guided Walk in Copenhagen

    Here’s my self-guided walk from Nyhavn to Amalienborg via Kongens Nytorv in Copenhagen. The area around Nyhavn was developed in the 17th century as a new market place that would be larger and more accommodating than the old Gammel Tov. The neighbourhood, called Frederiksstaden, also emerged as a place for Copenhagen’s elite to build their manor homes. Today Kongens Nytorv, the old market, has been turned into a major traffic junction in Copenhagen, while the old harbour Nyhavn has become the city’s most famous attraction. The royal family also call Frederiksstaden home at their palace Amalienborg.

    On this walk you’ll wander through the neighbourhood, seeing all the different sides it has to offer. 

    In this article...

    Copenhagen Travel Guide
    Denmark Travel Guide

    Downloadable Version of This Guide

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided walks on our online store. 

    View at the Store

    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the city
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos

    Kongens Nytorv, Nyhavn & Amalienborg

    This walk begins in the centre of Kongens Nytorv in Copenhagen.

    Kongens Nytorv

    The walk begins in the middle of Kongens Nytorv – a large square in the east of Copenhagen. 

    Kongens Nytorv was laid out by King Christian V in 1670 as Copenhagen was being expanded. The idea was to move away from the older square Gammeltorv (literally The Old Square), which at the time was a muddy medieval market. Kongens Nytorv was to have a lovely garden and cobblestones. The inspiration came from Paris. 

    The city’s eastern gate used to be here, but it was moved to make way for the district to be called New Copenhagen. Eventually the eastern gate was abandoned. 

    The baroque garden was completed in 1688 but didn’t survive too long – in 1747 the entire square was rebuilt by King Frederick V as a military ceremony ground. 

    Throughout the 2000s Kongens Nytorv underwent a massive refurbishment including the construction of the metro – it opened in 2019 to the public. It is used as an exhibition space, ice skating rink, market, and for high school graduation ceremonies. 

    Christian V Statue

    The equestrian statue is of King Christian V, who initiated the construction of Kongens Nytorv. It dates to 1688, when the baroque garden was completed, and today it’s the oldest equestrian statue in Scandinavia.

    Inspiration came from the statue of Louis XIII which stands at Place des Vosges in Paris.

    The positioning of the horse made it difficult for the metal, and the construction had to be strengthened. To do this, they put a naked man under the horse – this is supposed to represent envy, but really it’s just supporting the horse. 

    The Old Kiosk

    The old kiosk dates back to 1913. It is built int he Baroque Revival style and used to offer the first public telephone connection in Copenhagen. It was possible to make a call every day except Sundays. The phone box was open from 10am to 8pm. 

    Charlottenborg Palace

    Charlottenborg Palace is the oldest building on Kongens Nytorv. When the square was being constructed, the plots around it were sold off to Copenhagen’s elite. This one was built as a residence for Ulrik Frederick Gyldenløve, who was Christian V’s half brother. At the time, he was the Governor General of Norway.

    Today the building is home to the Royal Danish Academy of Fine Arts (they have been here since 1754) and there is a exhibition space called Kunsthal Charlottenborg that you can visit. 

    French Classicism, 1780

    Harsdorff House

    Harsdorff House was built in 1780 as a private residence for Caspar Frederick Harsdorfff, who had become the professor of perspective at the Royal Danish Academy of Fine Arts in 1766. 

    It has since served as a model for the many master builders of the time who had little academic training.

    Art Nouveau, 1931

    The Royal Theatre

    The theatre was founded in 1748 as a theatre for the King, but has since become a theatre for the country. 

    1874

    Hotel D'Angleterre

    This hotel is one of the oldest and most prestigious hotels in the world, and on top of that it is regarded as one of the first deluxe hotels in the world.

    There are 30 rooms and 60 suites inside, and the most expensive room I could find online is a 90m2 apartment that goes for $2,500 USD a night. The cheapest room I could find for January 2022 was $479 for one night. 

    In Alfred Hitchcock’s Tom Curtain, the protagonist (played by Paul Newman) stays here. Hitchcock is one of the scenes sitting in the lobby with a baby in his arms. 

    There is also a 1 Michelin Star restaurant inside. 

    Dutch Baroque, 1683

    French Embassy

    This lovely building was constructed in 1683 as the home for the Danish war hero Niels Juel, who had won the fame of wealth for his victory in the Battle of Køge Bay. When Niels died, Christian V had his “official mistress” and mother of five of his children, Sophie Amalie Moth, take over the mansion.

    The building was purchased by the French state in 1930 and is now the French Embassy. 

    Nyhavn

    Nyhavn is arguably the most famous place in Copenhagen. This harbour area (Nyhavn literally means “New Harbour”) is full of colourful warehouses that have now been converted into hip restaurants, bars and shops – though the area does feel particularly touristy and a little overpriced. 

    The harbour is artificial. It was constructed by King Christian V from 1670 to 1675 and dug out by Swedish prisoners of war from the Dano-Swedish War of 1658-1660. It was designed to be a gateway into the new Kongens Nytorv and was a place for fishermen to drop off their catch and for ships to handle cargo.

    Shortly after it was finished, it became notorious for the flowing of beer, the large number of sailors, and for prostitution. Most of the plots were sold off to merchants and skippers, and the buildings were used by people associated with maritime professions. 

    Fortunately the largest fires of Copenhagen have not made it to Nyhavn, so many of the buildings are from the mid-1700s, though there are some still standing from the 17th century.

    The area was pestrianised in 1980 and cleaned up. It became too small for modern ships and was transformed into the destination area we see today. It still has a grungy feel thanks to the bars, but that’s part of the charm of the area. 

    Memorial Anchor

    At the end of the harbour is a memorial anchor. it is placed there to commemorate the 1700 Danish soldiers and sailors in service for the Navy, merchant fleet or Allied forces who sacrificed their lives during World War II.

    The anchor was inaugurated in 1951. 

    Ships in the Harbour

    The ships at. the inner part of the harbour are owned by the Danish National Museum. 

    One of the most unique ships is the Lightvessel XVII Gedser Rev – the ship acts as a lighthouse and was used in areas that are too deep or unsuitable for lighthouse construction. 

    Nyhavn 7: Hong Kong Bar

    Nyhavn 7 is an old building from the 17th century. The name of the bar, the Hong Kong Bar, has nothing to do with Hong Kong. In fact, this is one of the last remaining sailors bars on Nyhavn. The Hong Kong bar was also a place where the sailors could get something besides beer, if you know what I mean… 

    Nyhavn 9

    Nyhavn 9 is believed to be the oldest house remaining on the street. It is also one of the few townhouses that was not heightened in the 19th century.

    The property was built in 1681 for harbourmaster Christen Christensen. After that, it was divided into apartments. 

    Since 1982, the building has been owned by Christel Windfeld-Lund. She doesn’t live in the building, but the restaurant Leonora Christine is based in the cellar. 

    Nyhavn 11

    Nyhavn 11 is from 1689 and has had a wide variety of interesting owners. One of the first owners was Jacob Severin, who married into wealth and was in 1733 granted a full monopoly on trade with Greenland. He founded a town in Greenland called Jacobshavn after himself. The town is still there, but is today known as Ilulissat. 

    Another interesting owner is Ludvig Ferdinand Romer, who established a sugar refinery in the building. He had previously been the governor of the Danish Gold Coast – a Danish colony in West Africa in present day Ghana. 

    Above the front entrance today is a figure of a sugar baker holding a sugar loaf in one hand and a sugar tin in the other. It was a way of identifying the houses before house numbers were a thing.

    By 1840, there were 34 people living in the property. 

    Nyhavn 67

    Nyhavn 67 is famous because it is where Hans Christian Andersen lived. Originally built as one household in the late 17th century, it was expanded and in the mid-19th century had five households here. 

    Andersen lived here with only short interruptions from 1848 to 1865.

    Today it is known as cafe H.C. Anderson. 

    Toldbodegade

    Toldbodegade (Customs House Street) led from the city centre of Copenhagen to the customs office. A string of warehouses were built along this street, most notably the West India Warehouse. 

    Sankt Annæ Plads

    Saint Anne Place is named after a chapel that used to stand here in the Middle Ages. The chapel was dedicated to the Virgin Mary’s mother, Saint Anna. The chapel only lasted for a few decades and is mostly forgotten in history, but its name was shared with a hospital called Saint Anna. The hospital stood for a long time in this area. 

    The location was believed to have healing power, and during excavations a number of crutches were found near where the chapel used to stand. People think the “cripples” (as the term in history books is used) were healed on the site and no longer needed their crutches. 

    The shape of the square today is similar to that of Nyhavn. That’s because this used to be a canal, but it was filled in to build the Royal Navy Hospital. Once it became a square, the district became fashionable with many nice buildings here. The garden was planted in 1852. 

    The beautiful building to your right is the old headquarters for DFDS (De Forende Dampskibs Selskaber), a shipping company. It now houses the Embassy of Finland and the Danish Nurses Association. 

    The statue that you see is of Carl Frederick Tietgen (1829-1901). He was a Danish financier and industrialist who played an important role in the industrialisation of Denmark and founded companies such as Tuborg (beer company) and DFDS. 

    Admiral Hotel

    This warehouse was constructed in 1787 for a shipping company. From the 1880s it was used to store grain. 

    The building was bought in 1973 to be converted into a hotel, which it is today. 

    Copenhagen Opera House

    Step into Amaliehaven – the garden area facing the water. This park is fairly new – it was established in 1983 and is designed to compliment the symmetry of Frederiksgade and Amalienborg. Italian sculptor Arnaldo Pomodoro created the works for the park, including the four columns that are supposed to represent the areas old use as a shipyard. 

    The opera house in Copenhagen is a bit of a controversy. It is one of the most expensive opera houses ever built, costing 2.5 billion DKK ($370,000,000 USD). It was funded by the Maersk shipping company. Some politicians were offended by the private donation, in part because the full cost was tax deductible, thus virtually forcing the government to buy the building. 

    The Maersk shipping magnate Maersk Mc-Kinney Møller had final say in the design. Many think the intention was to make. it look like a shipping container. 

    After its opening in 2005, the architect Henning Larsen wrote a book being very critical of the building. He distanced himself from it, calling it a “mausoleum” for Maersk Mc-Kinney Møller and “without comparison the most owner-infected ‘worst case’ in my fifty years as an independent arhcitect – squeezed between the Phantom of the Opera himself (i.e. Maersk), shipping magnates and lawyers.

    Directions: Head across the street into Amalienborg. Look at the wall to your left as you enter – there are bullet holes there from fighting between the Danes and the Nazis during World War II. 

    Amalienborg Palace

    You have made it to Amalienborg Palace, the home of the Danish royal family. 

    The name comes from Queen Sophie Amalie, who built a palace here after buying the land in 1660. It was a small mansion and large garden area, but it was all destroyed in 1689. The plot was deserted until 1728 before being bought and built as four manors for four noble families. 

    When the original royal residence, Christiansborg Palace, burned down in 1794 this became the temporary home of the royal family. Eventually they decided to make it their permanent residence. 

    Today the Danish royal family is one of the world’s oldest monarchs, and Amalienborg is considered to be the most distinguished piece of Rococo architecture in Denmark.

    We’ll go clockwise around the square, starting with the building immediately to your left. 

    Schacks Palace / Christian IX's Palace

    This is the current residence of Queen Margrethe II – if the flag is up, she’s home. 

    Moltke Palace

    Since 1885, this palace has been used to accommodate prominent guests. 

    Levetzau's Palace

    This was the home of Crown Prince Frederick until 2004. Today it is used as a museum for the royal house and you can visit the royal apartments with their original fittings and furnishings. 

    Brockdorff's Palace

    This is the current residence of Crown Prince Frederick and Princess Mary. It is fairly common to see them in this area – cycling their kids to school and so on. 

    Statue: King Frederick V

    The statue represents King Frederick V, the founder of Amalienborg. It was commissioned by Moltke, one of the old palace owners. The statue cost more than the entirety of Amalienborg. 

    Marble Church

    The Marble Church, formally known as Fredericks Church, is one of the most distinctive buildings in Copenhagen. The church was designed in 1740 and. the foundation stone was set by King Frederick V on 31 October 1749. However, due to budget constraints, the church was abandoned in 1770 and stood in ruins for 150 years.

    In 1874 Andreas Frederick Krieger, Denmark’s Finance Minister, sold. the ruins of the uncompleted church to Carl Frederick Tietgen on the condition that Tietgen would build a church similar to the original plans and then donate it to the state. Tietgen did just that. In return, Tietgen got the rights to subdivide the neighbouring plots for development. The deal was highly controversial at the time and Krieger was charged with corruption, though he was acquitted. 

    The church is mostly made of limestone and not marble as the name implies, due to budget cuts. 

    Copenhagen Travel Guide
    Denmark Travel Guide
  • Oslo, Walking Guides

    Industrial Heritage Along Oslo’s Akerselva River

    Self-Guided Walk on the Akerselva River in Oslo

    Here’s my self-guided walk on the Akerselva River in Oslo. The Akerselva is easily the most charming area in Oslo.

    The Akerselva (Aker River) is a 8.2km (5.1 mi) long river that flows through the middle of Oslo.

    The river can be credited with the development of Oslo. In the 19th century, it became the centre of the new industries coming to the city, as factories were able to utilise the power of the river.

    Today the river has been cleaned up and is known as ‘Oslo’s green lung’. Along the banks of the river are park areas, with the factories being converted into offices, schools, bars, cafes and restaurants.

    I honestly believe no trip to Oslo is complete without a visit to the river. While much of the city centre of Oslo feels like “Anywhere, Europe”, Akerselva has a distinctive personality that makes Oslo stand out from other Norwegian cities.

    This walk starts at Nydalen and continues all the way back to the city centre.

    In this article...

    Oslo Travel Guide

    You can find a detailed overview of Oslo, including practical, historic and travel information on our dedicated travel guide page. 

    Oslo Travel Guide

    The Walking Route

    Where we begin:

    We begin in Nydalen. To get there, take the metro to the stop ‘Nydalen’ and then walk through the shopping mall called ‘Torgbygget’. When you reach the river, cross the bridge and turn right. After 2-3 minutes, you’ll see the preserved factory. 

    Part One: Nydalen

    Nydalen is the first neighbourhood we will visit. The first mention of this neighbourhood was in 1578, when a farm called ‘Nygårdsdalen’, meaning ‘the valley belonging to the farm Nygård’, was mentioned in documents. 

    The area didn’t see major growth until the late 19th century, when the banks of the river were sold off and industrial buildings were constructed. The first type of industry in Nydalen was sawmills, but later the textiles industry came here and then the iron industry. 

    At the time, Nydalen was relatively isolated from Christiania, so it was important to build a community here. The workers were therefore very closely tied to the factory. For example, between 1857 and 1905 there was a school for the children who also had to work at the factory, and then from 1876 the companies financed their own midwives. When the tram came here in 1902, people moved further away and began to commute. 

    Today the neighbourhood is very modern with residential buildings, commercial and service establishments, shopping centres, eateries and corporate offices. The BI Norwegian Business School is located here, and since the opening of the metro in 2003 a lot of people have been attracted to the area. 

    Bakke Mølle

    Bakke Mølle is a mill established in 1811 by Hans Nielsen Hauge, a famous Norwegian preacher and founder of the ‘Haugien movement’. He had just been released from prison after preaching illegally, and he was given the nearby farm Bakkehaugen from his brother. He had a dam and mill built on the property and did well, selling the mill in 1824.

    For a while Bakke Mølle was owned by Peter Larsen & Co and was important for Nydalen. Eventually the mill was taken over by Christiania Spigerverk, who was expanding in Nydalen (see the historic photo above) and wanted the waterfall at Bakke Mølle. The building we can see became a storage building. 

    Today the building is used by the local government as offices. 

    Part Two: Bjølsen

    Bjølsen is a district in Oslo’s north. The area is characterised by old workers housing and green areas. Bjølsen has a high young population and there is a lot of active nightlife along Bergensgata. Bjølsen has traditonall been a working class area. Half the population is under the age of 40.

    Vannvoktboligen

    Due to pollution, Christiania’s water intake was moved to Maridalsvannet in 1867. This increased so much pressure that a reduction pool had to be built here. It is still located at the top of the hill, above today’s playground. Upstairs is a watchtower that is now a kindergarten.

    Idun Gjaerfabrikk

    This is the second yeast factory to start up in the area. Idun was one of the companies that lasted the longest along the river, however in 2005 it ended after more than 100 years of operation. You can see the great factory gate towards Treschows gate.

    From the 1930s they also produced broth, vinegar, mustard and other foods. After 1991, the production of Idun mustard and ketchup as well as vinegar was transferred out of Oslo to Staburet. Yeast and baked goods production in Oslo was discontinued in 2005 and moved to Sweden. Idun still has bakery production elsewhere in the country. The factory was one of the last factories to be closed down. 

    From 2010, the factory area was converted to apartments. The wrought iron gate, designed by Henrik Bull, has been preserved. 

    Treschows Bridge

    For a few years in the 19th century the towns water intake was located by the bridge. The city’s water supplies improved when wooden water pipes were replaced with iron pipes. But the water was filled with sawdust and soon the water supply was moved. The bridge is named after Admiral Gerhard Treschow, who owned Bjølsen farm and was behind several industrial companies in the area.

    Bjølsenfossen

    Bjølsenfossen has largely influenced the industrial history of the area. From the 14th century onwards there were mills here, before Bjølsen Valsemølle took over and became the country’s largest flour producer. The waterfall, called Little Niagara, is the largest in Akerselva with a drop of 16 metres. The waterfall is unfortunately locked inside the factory area. You can hear the waterfall from one of the bridges.

    This is the largest waterfall on Akerselva but can’t be seen today. There is a proposal to open a footpath on the west side of the waterfall. There is a music group named after this area, Bjølsen Valsemølle.

    The deep gorge through the waterfall is called Jerusalem after an old farm in the area.

    Bjølsen Valsemølle

    Was the country’s largest flour mill. Built in 1884. The mill was founded by Gustav Martinson in collaboration with Ole Amundsen who owned Bjølsen Mølle. The silo is from 1939. As recently as 1967, Akerselva delievered power to production. The mill had 60 horses carrying grain and flour between Vippetangen and the mills at Bjølsen and Nedre Foss. From 1918 horse transport was replaced with the grain tram.

    You can visit their website here: https://www.bjolsenvalsemolle.no/

    Svalgangshuset

    House that belongs to Bjølsen Valsemølle. Located at Treschows gate 4. It is a two storey house where all the rooms have access from a covered porch. The house is from 1850 and was the mill master residence.

    Directors House

    House that belongs to Bjølsen Valsemølle. Located at Treschows gate 4. It is a two storey house where all the rooms have access from a covered porch. The house is from 1850 and was the mill master residence.

    Lilleborg Fabrikker

    Since 1712, soap has been boiled here. Lilleborg Fabrikker was established by Ludvig Mariboe in 1812 as a clothing factory. The factory was established in the old Jerusalem Paper Mill from the latter half of the 18th century. The mill was bought by Mariboe in 1812 and he wound up in the mill operation and instead established a clothing factory with the name Lilleborg Fabrikk.

    Eventually they built an oil mill and a by-product of the oil was soap, so in 1842 the soap factory was established. The company was sold in 1862 to Peter Wessel Wind Kildal, who focused the company on the oil mill and soap factory. He grew Lilleborg to be one of the most important companies in Norway. In 1987, the production of household goods was moved to Ski, where it still takes place today.

    Bentse Brug Bentsegata 31-35

    Norway’s first paper mill was built here in the 1690s. It was primarily newsprint and brown paper that were produced. Paper production was discontinued in 1898. Ole Bentsen, the owner of the paper mill, had received royal privilege from King Christian V and the mill was the first of its kind in Norway. 

    In 1858, it became the first mill in Norway to use wood pulp. By 1865, other companies were doing the same and Bentse Brug struggled to compete. In 1889, it went bankrupt and was then acquired. The buildings were demolished in 1976. 

    Part Three: Sagene

    Sagene is a district located 2-3km north of the city centre. Originally associated with factories, today Sagene is one of the more attractive areas to live in in Oslo.

    The area used to be a farm called Vøyen, which is from pre-Christian times. Nonneseter monastery owned Vøyen and Sagene with a mill and fishing rights. Christian IV laid the area out as an urban land in 1629. The main building on Nedre Vøyen still exists at Maridalsveien 87.

    From the 16th century Sagene had a population associated with sawmills. In 1624, the king decided that only half-timbered houses should be built in Christiania, and those who couldn’t afford it had to move to Sagene. In 1683, 89 people lived on Sagene.

    Factories were built up in the 1700s and 1800s and this attracted people to the area. In 1875, 2000 workers were here. A horse tram was completed around 1880.

    Myraløkka

    Has always been a popular place for ids to play and swim. The valley is shaped like an amphitheatre because huge amounts of clay were excavated here for making bricks. Akerselva had many brickworks, and the business was seasonal. The bricks were mined in the summer and the clay was burned at high temperatures. Under the round mound at the bottom of the amphitheatre is the factory chimney buried. At the top of Myraløkka is English-style workers housing that was completed in 1914.

    Myrens Verksted

    This is one of Akerselva’s pioneer companies. It was known as the ‘factories factory’ as it made and repaired machines for other companies. 

    Today the building is used by NRK. 

    Vøyen Brua

    From the beginning of the 17th century, the towns drinking water source was here. This was the city’s first public water intake. Hollowed out logs led the water to Akershus Fortress. For a fee, citizens could have branch pipes added to water posts in their own courtyard. At the same time it was common for the water to be filled with rotten sawdust.

    Woman's Monument

    Below the bridge is a monument of Betzy Kjelsberg (1866-1950), a female pioneer and Norway’s first female factory inspector. As a factory inspector, she had responsibility for children and women’s working conditions throughout the country.

    Nords Isproduksjon

    Before the time of refrigerators, goods were cooled down with ice. In the 19th century, Martin used Edvard North Akerselva for ice production. He cut out ice blocks and the demand for ice was so great that eventually he dammed up parts of the Ila valley to make ice ponds. The water he collected was put into one large ice rink down by Waldemar Thranes gate.

    Glads Mølle

    Yellow building. It is from 1736 and is called Glads Mølle. It is Akerselva’s oldest preserved factory building and is the only listed industrial building. It made paper and is still a printing house inside.

    Beierbrua

    Named after Anders Beyer, who owned it in 1671. It is one of the finest bridges along the river and is the factory girls bridge. The bridge was a link between the textile industry on the west of the river and the residential areas on the east side. The sculpture is from 1986 and is made by Ellen Jacobsen.

    Hjula Væverier

    The founder of this company was Halvor Schou, who had been studying the brewing of beer in England. He came back to Norway, however, with plans to make a textiles factory. His factory became the largest textile factory in Akerselva. The factory supplied dresses, shirts, and bus clothes. It closed in 1857. 

    Due to the American Civil War, cotton supplies became low so Schou began producing wool sweaters. 

    The clothing company closed in 1957. Today, a real estate company called Hjula Vaeveri Halvor Schou currently operates.

    The buildings still stand today and characterise the area of Akerselva. 

    Hønse Lovisa House

    This charming red house was a sawmills residence and today it is a nice little café.

    It is known as Hønse-Lovisa’s House. Why?

    Hønse-Lovisa was an important literary figure in the play The Kid. The name has been associated with the house since the 1970s because it was used in the film adaptation from 1974. The play takes place in the industrial area along the river at the end of the 19th century. There is an older woman called Hønse-Lovisa. Her house is called ‘Hønsereiret’ because she takes care of single mothers. She gives the factory girls who are injured a roof over their heads so they can keep their kids even if they are illegitimate cildren. The character represented a revolt against societal norms that existed about single mothers and their children in the 19th century.

    Workers Museum

    This is an old wood house building on Sagveien 28. The museum tells about Akerselva’s labour and industrial history. A little further away is an apartment on Sagveien 8 which shows the living conditions of the workers.

    Vøyens Bomuldsspinderi

    South of Beierbrua is the textile giant Vøyens Bomuldsspinderi, founded by Knud Graah. The textile factory started in 1846 and lasted until 1955. At the time the river had colour in it due to the cloth dyeing. Even the rates were green, blue or purpose. If you go down the stairs on the west side of the river you can feel the splash from Nedre Vøyenfallene.

    Part Four: Øvre Grunnerløkka

    Grunerlokka was named after the mint master Friedrich Gruner who owned Nedre Foss Mill. Grunerlokka was incorporated into Oslo in 1858. Before it became part of Oslo, a neighbourhood of affordable wooden houses was built here called “New York”.

    From 1861 the land was sold off to be developed.

    The district became an immigrant district, and many of the Jews who immigrated at the end of the 19th century settled here. Most immigrants came from Nordic countries. In recent times, it is Pakistanis and Turks who left their mark on the district. Grunerlooka has also always been popular with artists, and Edvard Munch lived in both Fossveien 7 and Thorvald Meyers gate 48 (now Shous plass 1). In the latter he painted Sick Child and Spring.

    Sannerbrua

    Discharges from factories and sewerage made the river a stinking puddle. It was the worst in the summer. It was not so bad on Sundays when the factories weren’t operating. It got so bad that the conservatives in 1915 proposed to put a lid on the river was a river when it should be a smile. That same year, the city council decided that the river should be cleaner and there should be parks. During the cleaning strikes in the 1920s the bins were emptied into the river and as late as 1962 there were 71 outlets from the public sewer system into the river.

    Åmot Bridge

    Suspension bridge from 1851. Was moved here in 1952. On the bridge we find the inscription “100 men I carry, but fail during steady march”

    Christiania Seildugsfabrik (Seilduken)

    The canvas was one of the largest workplaces along the river, founded in 1858. The factory produced canvas and ropes, and people made a pilgrimage here to look at the building – which was described as the second largest after the castle. Today the Oslo Academy of Arts has moved to the plot, and if you take the hill up by Åmot Bridge, you find the college patio.

    One of the best preserved industrial plants. The factory made sails for sailing ships but gradually expanded to fishing equipment, nets, ropes and sacks. It was established by Ole Hauge. Most of the employees were women and the working conditions are among the worst in the entire city. In 1908 there were 900 employees here. Production was discontinued in 1960 when there was overproduction of textiles in the world.

    In 1999, the buildings were given to the Oslo Academy of Arts.

    Akers Mek. Verksted

    On the site by the factory is a small half-timbered house by the river. This was the Akers Mek. Workshop in 1841. Eventually the business moved to Pipervika.

    The founder was War Captain P.S. Steenstrup, who owned the factory until his death in 1863. He was the master of Norway’s first steamship, D.S. Constitutionen. He had built Carl Johans Shipyard as the navy’s main shipyard.

    The company moved by the Oslofjord in 1854 and grew into a shipyard.

    Kuba

    There are different views about the origin of the name Cuba, but one of the theories is that the name can be seen in connection with the wooden houses called “new york” further down. It is a large circular square on the west side of the river that used to have a giant gas bell owned by Oslo gassverk. For a long time, gas was the competitor to electricity, and gas was used in street lights. Gas was produced by heading up coal, and therefore there is a lighthouse here. The gas bell has been torn down, but the lighthouse is restored and has re-emerged as a café.

    Christiania was the second city in the Nordic region to have its own gasworks after Christiania. The municipality took over the gasworks in 1878. The gas plant improved the city’s street lighting, but it was also in demand for indoor lighting in factories, institutions and in prosperous homes. When electricity came, gas was outcompeted as an indoor light source. For private space heating, gas was of little important. When the gas burner came for cooking in 1890s, gas was in demand.

    During the 1920s electric stoves became more common and street lighting was electrified. The last gas lantern disappeared in 1929. The company continued because many businesses preferred to use gas in production rather than electricity because gas heat was quicker. However, the gasworks was closed in 1976. The old office building in Storgata has a historic sign on it.

    The Silos

    This belonged to Bjølsen Valsemølle and was completed in 1953. In an architectural competition in the 1980s it was proposed to turn it into a hotel, but it was taken over by the student organisation and turned into a student house. In 2002 it received the Oslo City Architecture Prize. If we look through the window in the first one, we can see a tram – this is what the grain tram looked like.

    Part Five: Nedre Grunerløkka

    Nedre Foss

    From ancient times the boats went all the way up here. Today, only the fish take the route at Nedre Foss. There are traces of what is perhaps the country’s oldest mill operation. The monks from Hovedøya had a mill here, which was later taken over by the King at the Reformation in 1537 and then went by the name of the King’s mill.

    The farm was owned by Hovedøya monastery and was well located for business since the only bridge over Akerselva was here. A fee was charged for crossing the bridge until 1865. The king took over the farm during the Reformation in 1537 and in the early 17th century instructed farmers to cut timber and drive it to the rising saw at Nedre Foss. The farm was called “Kongens Mølle”.

    Salmon went up Nedre Foss and the fishing provided income to the farmer.

    The farm was subdivided in 1668 and after that Fredrik Gruner bought the farm. His surname gave name to the neighbourhood. The family owned the property for extended periods of time. In 1801, farming was largely discontinued. Plans for dredging the river and establishing a harbour at Nedre Foss were discussed in the 1840s and 1850s. In the 1850s, Gruner subdivided 53 plots of land 30 metres south of the farm, and the wooden building known as ‘New York’ was built.

    The silo was in operation until 2000.

    A mill has been here since before the 1200s and mill operations took place here until 1985. The main building from the farm remains – it was restored and opened in 2017 as a restaurant, but later that year parts of the building were damaged by fire.

    Nedre Foss Park

    Here you’ll find Grunerløkka’s oldest building. The main building is from 1802, however there has been a farm here since the Middle Ages when it was owned by the monastery on Hovedøya, later by the Gruner family, and most recently by Bjølsen Valsemølle. There has been mill operations since the 13th century until 1985. The municipality bought the areas by Nedra Waterfall to build one of Akerselva’s greenest areas.

    Grunerhagen

    The Gruner family, who gave the name to the area Grunerlokka, laid out a legendary garden on the east side of the river. They found a pond, terraces, gazebos, fruit trees, geese and peacocks. The garden was private and surrounded by a fence. Today only the name survives.

    The family laid out the garden in the beginning of the 18th century as a magnificent garden. The park had terraces, avenues, a pond with gazebos on stilts and a zoo with peacocks, geese and turkeys. There are no pictures of the old garden. The park was completely redesigned in the middle of the 19th century. When Edvard Munch lived on Fossveien and made pictures of the park there was still a pond. In the early 20th century, the park was dilapidated. During the war it was used for growing food. In 1986 a real estate company wanted to build offices, hotels and homes in the area. After major protests from the residents, through a state zoning plan for Nedre Foss, the park was preserved.

    Vulkan & Mathallen

    Vulkan Jernstøberi was built by Akerselva in 1873 and was a pioneer in Norway in the production of steel bridges. The old area now has hotels, restaurants, the Dansens hus, the School of Communications and Mathallen Oslo which moved here in 1908.

    Former industrial area. In 2013-2014 the area was transformed into a business and residential area. In earlier times there was a sawmill here. The sawmill closed in 1840. There was also a cement factory, brickworks, veneer saw and chair factory here, as well as Oslo’s first publicly available shower path.

    In 1873, Vulkan Jernstøberi took over the site. They specialised in steel bridges for railways and roads, but also had other assignments, such as the dome at the old Colosseum cinema. It closed in the late 1950s. The buildings were then rente dout for various business and office purposes.

    The redevelopment has been praised with several awards for the way the old industrial area has been redeveloped.

    Grunerbrua

    Akerselva’s oldest bridge was where Grunerbrua is today. Until Vaterlandsbrua was built in 1654 this was the only connection between east and west. Before the bridge was called Frysja Bridge, Akers Bridge and Møllebroen. Today th ename restifies that the Gruner family owned the bridge. You used to have to pay tolls to get to the city, and this was the only bridge over the river. Battles took place here during the civil war.

    Christiania Bryggeri

    For a time, the city had many breweries and beer was promoted as a healthy drink. The Christiania brewery was located at Maridalsveien 3, where the city archives are located today.

    Ved Brenneriveien

    One of the city’s popular concert venues, Blå, is located on Brenneriveien, and on Sundays there is a market with arts and crafts. Right by the bridhe someone has put up the sign “Ingens gate”. On the opposite side we find a curved building that once housed Indigo, Akerselva’s Klaedesfabrik, which engaged in cloth dyeing, and further down is the Hausmania culture house.

    There are older industrial buildings on both sides of the street. The left side has a huge complex that used to be a brewery and food factory from 1855 to 1972, later small industry, cultural activities and offices. At number 9 there has been a textile factory since the mid 1850s,

    The street is known today for its concerts, markets, and bars.

    Norwegian Design & Architecture Centre

    Oslo’s oldest transformer station. Today it has exhibitions on design and architecture.

    Jakob Church

    The only listed church in Oslo that is not a medieval church. Consecrated in 1880 and is located in the former Ankerløkken cemetery, which was a cholera cemetery. The church was threatened with closure in the 1980s, but has remerged as a cultural church.

    Ankerbrua

    Named after one of Oslo’s richest families, the Anker family, but is also called the adventure bridge. The bronze decorations from 1937 are made by Dyre Vaa and taken from Norwegian folk tales.

    Part Six: Vaterland

    Vaterland is a district. The name comes from the Dutch Waterland and can refer to the water-stretched land at the mouth of Akerselva. Dutch schooners docked here to load timber in the 17th century. The first settlement here was older than Christiania, but the suburb was burned by the governor in 1658. After the construction of Vaterland’s Bridge in 1654, it was an important gateway to the city.

    Vaterland was a centre for peasant trade and also became a place for pubs, brothels and prisons. Vaterland was the scene of organised crime well into the 20th century. Most of the buildings in the area were demolished from the end of the 1950s in connectionw with the construction of the metro between Tøyen and Jernbanetorget. Today many big buildings are at Vaterland and a lot of the old part of the district is gone.

    Nybrua

    Here people had berths, but in the 1960s everything was levelled with the ground and the lower part of the river laid under a lid. The boat people were moved to Hovedøya and the old buildings were replaced with high-rise buildings and traffic machines. It’s like Vaterland had ever been nice. Nybrua was built in 1827 because King Karl Johan demanded a finer for the entrance than the previous bridge. The emergency room is located here.

    Hausmannsbrua

    Named after Lieutenant general Fredrik F. Hausmann. The bridge is a cast iron bridge from 1892 and is worthy of protection and equipped with ‘iron lace’. It was built exceptionally solid because the city had procured an 18-ton modern steamroller that required a strong bridge. When the bridge was expanded to five lanes in the 1980s, they managed to copy the decoration and retain the bridges appearance.

    Vaterlandsbrua

    Everyone who came from the east of the city had to go over Vaterlandsbrua. Over Vaterland went one of the towns oldest bridge connections, and the first Vaterlandsbrua was built in 1654. Earlier was the city’s sewer lines, and when Christiania’s first sewer line launched in 1846, no one found that it was sent out to Vaterlandsbrua. The sludge led to a fermentation process so that gas bubbles formed on the river surface, which the kids lit to make bangs or so-called gunpowder bits.

    Vaterland Park

    Here you’ll see the bust of Olafia Johannisdottir (1863-1924), an Icelander who lived and worked as a slum nurse among prostitutes and the poor in Vaterland until her death.

    Here the river enters a 500m long tunnel before it appears again by the sea. There used to be two more bridges down to the river, but today they are just a memory.

    Brugata

    Brugata was Christiania’s access road from the east and north after the construction of Vaterland’s Bridge in 1654. Peasant farms were built here, and some can still be seen today. The western part of the street is today dominated by restaurants, immigrant shops, and a shopping centre.

    Number 3 Is Teddy’s Soft Bar, which opened in 1958. In the backyard you can see the remains of a peasant farm that was probably built in the middle of the 18th century.

    Brugata 6 was a farm built in the 1760s.

    Brugata 9 is Den Røde Mille. The house is from 1870 and it is built on the foundation of a house that stood there in the 18th century.

    Number 14 is a half-timbered house from the end of the 18th century. It used to have a guest house on the ground floor.

    End of the Walk

    The walk ends at Brugata, where you can turn right off the river and make your way into the city. Brugata is only a couple blocks from Oslo Central Station.

    I hope you enjoyed this beautiful walk down the Akerselva River! Let me know in the comments what you think about the walk. 

    Oslo Travel Guide

    You can find a detailed overview of Oslo, including practical, historic and travel information on our dedicated travel guide page. 

    Oslo Travel Guide