National Tourist Roads

  • Drive it Yourself: Varanger Tourist Road

    Drive it Yourself: Varanger Tourist Road

    The Varanger Tourist Road is one of Norway’s 18 national tourist roads and is definitely one of the most special. The Varanger Peninsula is a rugged mountain area partly covered in birch trees and partly above the tree line. Parts of the peninsula used to have an Arctic tundra climate but don’t any more. Still, the geology here is unique as most of the landscape was made before the last Ice Age. 

    The route is so special – you see lunar landscapes, flat plains, rolling hills and birch forests. You also pass sights with history and sites going back 10,000 years, abandoned fishing villages, and so much more. 

    Enjoy the Varanger Tourist Road. 

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    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    The Varanger Tourist Road

    Hamningberg

    This drive begins in Hamningberg, which is an abandoned fishing village with many buildings from before World War II. 

    Before the Second World War, around 700 people lived here. Hamningberg was one of the largest fishing communities in Finnmark and took part in the Pomor trade. However, the last three people left in 1978. 

    Vardø Municipality

    Vardø municipality is one of the first municipalities to be established in Northern Norway. The coat-of-arms is from 1898 and represents the sunshine, fishing boats, the ocean, and a large cod. In the chief is the year of the towns founding, 1789, along with the words “Vardöensis Insignia Urbis” which means “the seal of the town of Vardø”. In the lower part of the arms is the town motto “Cedant Tenebræ Soli”, meaning “Darkness shall give way to the sun”.

    Several Stone Age sites as well as sites dating from the Sami Iron Age have been found here. Vardø became a Norwegian settlement in the medieval period, and the first church was built here in 1307.

    Fishing and seafood processing are Vardø’s major sources of income. The municipality also has large seabird colonies on the islands of Hornøya and Reinøya.

    WWII Memorial

    Memorial

    Shortly after crossing into Vardø municipality you will pass this memorial on the left side. It is for three men who were executed here during World War II. 

    The drive from Hamningberg to Vardø is incredible. Be sure to stop as much as possible!

    Vardø

    The road does not go through Vardø, but the town is a short detour off the highway. I do recommend visiting the town – there’s a lot to see and do, and it also has a petrol station and some coffee shops. 

    Domen

    Viewpoint

    The mountain Domen is fairly unique thanks to its history. It has been known as ‘Heksefjellet’ (witch mountain) for a few hundred years as it’s believed that this is the place where the witches were meeting with the devil.

    The Vardø area was regarded as one of the worst areas in terms of the scope of the brutal witch hunts. In the year 1662/63 more than 30 women in Vardø were accused of witchcraft. Many of the women said that on the mountain Domen they had danced, drunk and consorted with the Devil. Domen was also where the ceremonies and sabbaths took place.

    It was believed that the devil lived in a cave in the mountain. Vardø’s location at what seems like the end of the world inspired speculation that this was the entrance to hell. This may explain why so much witch burning went on.

    Kiberg

    Village

    Kiberg was one of the largest fishing communities in the area during the 16th and 17th centuries, and was important during the Pomor Trade era. Kiberg is still important for fishing.

    Two women from Kiberg were burned at the stake during the 1621 witchcraft trials in Vardø. Their names were Mari Jørgensdatter and Kirsti Sørensdatter, and Kirsti was the last victim of the witchcraft trials.

    Kiberg was of strategic importance during World War II. The geographical proximity to the Soviet Union brought Russian and Norwegian people together. After the occupation of Norway, many locals went to the Soviet Union. Some returned and worked for the Soviet military intelligence services, with as many as 45 partisans in Kiberg.

    Their most important task was to pass on radio communications about the German shipping fleet. It has been estimated that around 80 German merchant ships were sunk on their way to Kirkenes due to the partisans passing on information. Around half the partisans were killed or executed during the war.

    In Kiberg you can visit the Partisan Museum, which is about the events here during World War II. 

    Vadsø Municipality

    Vadsø municipality is named after the town of Vadsø that we will soon be driving through. The coat-of-arms shows a reindeer as reindeer husbandry is common for the municipality and of great economic importance, especially for the Sami people.

    The municipality spreads across the southern coast of the Varanger peninsula. There are trees here as this part of the peninsula is sheltered from the sea, but the tree line is at around 200 metres above sea level.

    Skallelv

    Village

    Skallelv was originally one of the several purely Finnish communities in the area, populated at the end of the 19th century. The local people were known as Kvens, the North-Norwegian name for people of Norwegian-Finnish descent. Skallelv is one of the few remaining areas with buildings that were constructed before World War II. The oldest wooden houses here are from before 1860.

    Ekkerøy

    Village

    There has been settlement on Ekkerøy since at least the Middle Ages, and finds from the Viking Age have been found there. However, it is not known if Vikings settled there or if they traded there.

    Ekkerøy was an island until 1750, but now there is a land connection to the mainland. Ekkerøy was built up as a fishing village and at its peak had several landing piers, shops, a school, shrimp factory, fish oil processing plant, and dried fish racks. There were 270 people living there; today there are less than 50.

    Parts of Ekkerøy have been declared a nature reserve and the island also has a small bird cliff. In the breeding season, which is from May to September, the cliffs may be home to as many as 20,000 kittiwake pairs.

    The settlement of Ekkerøy was not destroyed during World War II. The well-preserved fish factory is now a museum with warehouses, a cod liver oil steamer, an old shop and an authentically furnished traders residence.

    Vadsø

    The only major town we drive through is Vadsø. There is a lot worth seeing here, so browse our separate travel guide page below. 

    Vestre Jakobselv

    Village

    Vestre Jakobselv is a small village with around 500 people living here. It has a primary and secondary school. The village is popular for its salmon fishing as the Jakobselva river has its outlet here.

    Nesseby Municipality

    Nesseby is a small municipality located at the isthmus between the Varangerfjord and the Tana River at the entrance to the Varanger peninsula. The population lives in small settlements along the fjord and the Varangerhalvøya National Park is partly located in the park. The municipality is known for its interesting birdlife and also its tundra with areas of bog and marsh.

    Today the municipality is known as Unjárga-Nesseby, reflecting the Sami community who live here. Nesseby was the second municipality in Norway to get a Sami name. Most of the inhabitants are Sami and Sami is being taught as the first language in schools. In historic times, reindeer used to cross this area as part of their annual migration.

    This led the Sami to coming into the area. The area between Skippagurra and Varangerbotn is full of archaeological finds from different periods.

    The coat-of-arms represents a cloudberry plant.

    The municipality is the birthplace of Isak Saba, the first Sami to be elected to the Norwegian parliament.

    Mortesnes Site

    Historic Site

    Mortesnes is considered to be one of the richest and most diverse cultural areas in Europe. The uninterrupted timeline and cultural contunity makes the area special. The land here has remains from the past, documenting a 10,000 year history of unbroken settlement and provides a picture of key feature in the development of the settlement of Finnmark after the last Ice Age. The area also provides a picture of the background and emergence of Sami cultural features.

    There is a walking trail that you can follow. Here you can see traces of settlement in the form of tent rings and tufts on the shorelines according to the past sea levels. The area also contains a large, pre-Christian burial ground, which dates from approx. 1000BC to 1500AD. Over 400 graves are here. Various sacrificial places have also been found. The most famous monument here is Transteinen, which was believed to be smeared with cod liver oil to ensure good fishing luck.

    One of the oldest ski finds in Norway comes from one of the graves in the area and was found in 1853. The skis are from 400BC. Reindeer trapping facilities have also been found here, along with various materials, tools, and objects made of ceramic and metal.

    It is free to walk around the trail, and in summer they have a museum that you can visit.

    Nesseby Church

    Historic Church

    Nesseby Church is from 1858 and is the only wooden church in Eastern Finnmark that was not destroyed by the Nazis during World War II. Parts of the inventory are from the 17th and 18th centuries and some come from other churches. For example, the altarpiece is baroque and comes from the old Kiberg Church.

    Today the church is relatively the same as when it was built.

    Outside the church is Nesseby’s oldest building: an old log cabin. It was moved here in 1746 ad the door is from the 17th century and probably originates from the time that the church stood on Vadsø.

    There is a legend as to why Nesseby Church was saved. Sverre Raddum was the parish priest here during the war. He was a big, strong and rugged fellow, and known to be a tough guy. When the Germans were going to burn Nesseby Church, he stood on the steps and waited for them with the priests collar around his neck, and did not let them in. In German, he told them: “If there is someone who goes to church or a house of worship with evil thoughts, then they are guaranteed to be punished by higher powers”. The Germans immediately gave up bruning the church. Raddum saved his church.

    Gornitak Rasteplass

    Rest Area

    Gornitak (Sámi: Gorgŋetak) means ascent. This rest area lies on the Varangerfjord close into a mountainside under a high firmament and with a view to the sea in the east. The service facilities are housed in an old, restored stone building that served as an ammunitions store during the Second World War.

    Varangerbotn

    Village

    Varangerbotn is a small village that is the administrative centre of Nesseby. The population is around 341. In Varanger you can visit the Varanger Sami Museum, a museum for the history and culture of the Sami in Varangerbotn. The museum presents the Sea Sami history, Sami prehistory, and contemporary Sami culture.

    Next Drive

    Varangerbotn to Berlevåg

    Follow this isolated drive from Varangerbotn to Berlevåg in Finnmark. 

  • Drive it Yourself: The Gaularfjellet Tourist Road

    Drive it Yourself: The Gaularfjellet Tourist Road

    Gaularfjellet is a mountain area that separates the traditional regions of Sogn and Sunnfjord. The mountains reach as high as 1,615 metres. The tourist road has been open since 1938 and is very popular because of the rapid transition from fjord to mountain. For many, though, it is still a well-kept secret as it is not as popular or well-known as the other tourist roads.

    The road was established as a tourist road because of its high number of waterfalls but also the engineering that went into building a road over the mountains.

    We decided to do this drive after heading to Balestrand for the day from Bergen. This tourist road isn’t as talked about as the others that I’ve been on, so I was curious to see exactly what it was like. I must admit – it was pretty neat! It’s not as spectacular as, say, Trollstigen or Hardanger, but there’s something charming about this tourist road. Maybe it’s because no one really knows about it. It’s much shorter than the other tourist roads, but in that short amount of time you’ll see some spectacular country. 

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    Watch on Youtube

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    The drive: Gaularfjellet Tourist Road

    Balestrand

    This drive begins in Balestrand, a scenic tourist town by the Sognefjord. 

    Dragsvik

    Settlement

    Located just outside Balestrand, Dragsvik is a resort hotel and ferry pier. The ferry connects the settlement to the other side of the Sognefjord. The hotel has both cabins and rooms, and they provide lots of information about hikes in the region. 

    Gaularsfjellet Viewing Platform

    Photo stop

    The viewpoint opened in 2016. The viewpoint is a construction that has three ‘wings’ where you can take in unobstructed views over the mountains. There’s also a restroom here.

    Sunnfjord Municipality

    Sunnfjord is a traditional district and municipality. The central geographic characteristic of the region are the fjords and outdoor activities, including fishing, white-water rafting, and glaciers.

    Førde

    Førde is a town built up around the river Jølstra at the point where it flows into the Førdefjord. The town is surrounded by mountains, as we can see. Around 10,500 people live in Førde, making it a relatively large town for the region. There are schools at all levels here, as well as a major hospital. There is also a small airport.

    Førde is an administrative centre, so it has all the facilities for the surrounding area. The town does have a slight industrial feel; it has often been voted by Norwegians as one of the ugliest towns in Norway. This is mostly due to the neighbourhood of Øyrane, which sits on the fjord by the river and was developed as a shipyard in the 1970s.

    Where to Go From Here

    Førde is located on the E39, which links Bergen to Ålesund. We have written a guide to the drive from Bergen north along the E39, which you can view below. 

    You can get a printable version of this drive over on our online store. 

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Drive it Yourself: Kautokeino to Havøysund via the Alta Canyon & Havøysund Tourist Road

    Drive it Yourself: Kautokeino to Havøysund via the Alta Canyon & Havøysund Tourist Road

    In this article...

    Downloadable Version of This Guide

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

    Online Guide

    Downloadable Guide

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    The drive: Kilpisjärvi to Kautokeino

    Kautokeino

    This drive begins in Kautokeino, one of the largest Sami communities in the world. You can learn more about Kautokeino via the travel guide below. 

    Karasjok

    Village

    The first major intersection you’ll come to is what you take to get to Karasjok. Karasjok is another major Sami community and is also home to the Sami Parliament. It takes 1 hour and 10 minutes to get to Karasjok from here. 

    Pikefossen

    Waterfall

    Pikefossen is a waterfall in the Kautokeino River. The name comes from a legend of a maid who was looking after a herd of reindeer. During a storm, the herd began to cross the river on the bad ice above the waterfall. The maid tried to stop them, but the ice broke and the whole herd drowned. When the reindeer owner heard about this, he got so angry he put the girl in a barrel and threw it in the waterfall. She somehow survived and the barrel floated down to Alta where she was found.

    The waterfall is 8m (26ft) high and has a nice picnic area next to it. It’s a little tricky to park there in winter due to the snow (and you can’t really see the waterfall), but in summer it is a lovely spot to stop, have a bite to eat and admire the views.

    Máze

    Village

    Masi (or Máze in Northern Sami) is a small village located along the Kautokeino River. The village is made up predominantly of Sami people – around 98% of the population are Sami.

    The village is very old. It’s mentioned as far back as the 12th century when the area was used by the Sami who were hunting and trapping. The area was called “Finnmork” and there are many archaeological cultural monuments around Masi. There are traces of settlement from the Sami Iron Age (0AD – 1500AD). The nature around the village is protected and has an important ecosystem.

    Masi Church has been here since the 17th century, though the church had to be rebuilt after World War II because the previous church was destroyed by retreating Nazi soldiers. The original church was built by Thomas von Westen to serve and convert the local Sami people.

    Masi was the centre of the Alta Controversy of the late 1970s and early 1980s. The Norwegian government considered building a dam on the local river for the proposed Alta Hydroelectric Power Station, which would’ve flooded the village.

    The village is home to one little shop where you can buy groceries and supplies.

    Suolovuopmi Fjellstue

    Accommodation

    Suolovuopmi Fjellstue is a place to stay up on the Finnmark Plateau. The lodgings have been here since 1843, when they were established by the state because the priests, sheriffs, doctors, and clerks needed accommodation in their errands across the plateau. The mountain lodges were also used by the Sami travelling across the plateau. Today it’s an excellent place to stay to observe the northern lights as well as go fishing or hiking on the plateau.

    Click here to visit their website (in Norwegian only). 

    Alta Municipality

    Alta is the most populated municipality in Finnmark county, and its population has increased by 11.3% over the last decade. The coat-of-arms represent a white arrow point on a blue background, and it is derived from the findings of quartzite arrow points dating back to the late Stone Age found in the area. The quartzite was mined in the area and tools were made from it all over Northern Norway.

    Alta is most famous for its rock carvings, which are on the UNESCO World Heritage list. The carvings date from 4,200 BC to 500BC and were likely made by the Komsa culture, an early people in Northern Norway. These are Northern Europe’s largest number of petroglyphs and rock paintings made by a hunter-gatherer population.

    Alta is first mentioned in written sources around 1500, when it was inhabited by a couple hundred Sami people. The area was a common tax country for Denmark-Norway, Sweden, and Russia. Towards the end of the 16th century there were conflicts between Sweden and Denmark over the right to tax salmon fishing in the river. In 1613, it was decided that the area of Alta belonged to Denmark-Norway, and by this time Norwegians were settling along the Altafjord.

    Around 1700, the Kven population began to settle in the area. The Kven people came from Finland and were escaping war and famine. The Kvens brought with them grain cultivation and improved the river fishing methods. In 1826, copper mines were established, and miners came from Finland, Sweden and southern Norway to take part. Several of the miners later travelled onto the United States, but many stayed and combined farming with mining.

    During World War II, the German battleship Tirpitz was kept hidden in the Altafjord for 18 months. It was so badly damaged that it had to leave the fjord. It was towed to Tromsø, where it was eventually sunk by Allied forces. The town of Alta was destroyed by the Germans in 1944 and the only building that was not burned was Alta church.

    The main industries in Alta include trading, education, and public service. The town of Alta is known for its slate industry. Alta is also the starting point for the Finnmarksløpet, the longest dog sled race in Europe.

    Alta is the second northernmost city in the world and a good place to spend some time. I’ve written a detailed travel guide to Alta, which you’ll see below.

    Alta Canyon

    Scenic Area

    Shortly after passing the municipality sign for Alta, you begin your descent through the Alta Canyon. This canyon is Northern Europe’s largest canyon and extends over 400 metres up from the riverbed. The total length is 12km (7 mi). The canyon begins just downstream from the Alta Power Station. It is possible to visit the dam and power plant, but only with a guided tour. The Sami name for the canyon is Sautso.

    Alta Municipality

    Alta is one of the largest cities in Northern Norway. You can find a detailed travel guide to Alta below. 

    The Altafjord

    Fjord

    The Altafjord is a 38km (24 mi) long fjord near Alta. The deepest part of the fjord is around 488m. There are several different fish species in the fjord, including salmon, trout and char – this is because of the rivers flowing into the fjord. There is also some fish farming in the fjord. Several rock carvings have been found along the fjord and are now on the UNESCO World Heritage list.

    Rafsbotn

    Village

    Rafsbotn is a small village located just outside Alta. The population is around 408 and Rafsbotn is home to a ski slope and a chapel. The name comes from the Sami name Ráššvuotna, which means ‘clay seabed’.

    Sarvesalta

    Alpine Ski Resort

    Sarvesalta is an alpine ski resort overlooking the Altafjord and it is the major ski resort in the area. One of the popular places to stay is the Bjørnfjell Mountain Lodge, which focuses a lot on Norwegian farming and cabin culture.

    Hammerfest Municipality

    Hammerfest is a large municipality in Northern Norway. The main town is Hammerfest, which is located off the mainland on the island Kvaløya. The coat-of-arms depicts a polar bear, which was chosen as the symbol for fishing in the polar seas in Northern Norway.

    Skaidi

    Village

    Skaidi is a small village and major traffic hub in Northern Norway. In the 1940s, the Skaidi Mountain Lodge and Station was built. Today it’s an important point to stop if you need a rest on the long road journeys.

    Here you’ll find a petrol station, various electric car charging stations, a cafe and a hotel. 

    Porsanger Municipality

    Porsanger is the third largest municipality in Norway, yet it only has a population of 3,998, making it one of the lowest population densities in the country. The main town is Lakselv, which has an airport. The area has been settled by Sami people for a long time. In the 18th century, people from Finland, escaping famine and war, settled here. They are known as the Kven people. Porsanger is known as the only trilingual municipality in Norway with Norwegian, Sami and Kven as the official languages.

    The Norwegian Army has a garrison at Porsangermoen and the military presence in Porsanger is quite heavy. The military is one of the largest employers in the area and contributes a lot financially. The Stabbursdalen National Park is located in the municipality and is home to the world’s northernmost pine forest.

    Archaeological finds show the Sami have lived here for a long time. Porsanger is rich in resources, and there are rich pastures for reindeer. On the islands are large quantities of cloudberries and down, while in the rivers there are salmon, trout and char. Until 1750, the area was almost exclusively a Sami area and then it was a Kven area. The Norwegians didn’t begin to settle until the 20th century, though the main reason for this is because the Kven and Sami people began to describe themselves as Norwegian. The area also needed officials, teachers, priests, doctors, merchants, etc and many were Norwegian.

    Porsangerfjord

    Fjord

    The Porsangerfjord is Norway’s fourth-longest fjord, reaching 123km (76 mi) inland. The village of Lakselv sits at the innermost part of the fjord, while the large island of Magerøya (home to North Cape) sits on the western shore of the fjord.

    Olderfjord

    Village

    Olderfjord is a small village located at the junction between the roads. Here you’ll find a petrol station and a few homes.

    Havøysund Tourist Road

    Tourist Road

    The Havøysund Tourist Road is one of the lesser-known tourist roads, but is probably one of my favourites. The landscape is so barren and remote, creating a unique experience as you drive along the rocky landscape along the Arctic Ocean.

    As soon as you make the left-turn, you are on the tourist road.

    Lillefjord

    Rest Area

    The Lillefjord rest area is located at the halfway point on the tourist road. Here you’ll find restrooms in the summer as well as an interesting bridge that crosses the Fosseelva River.

    Måsøy Municipality

    Måsøy is a municipality located across several islands. Havøysund is the main centre for the municipality. The coat-of-arms depicts a weapon called a fishing gaff. It has been used in fishing for centuries to haul large fish into the boat, hence the choice. Fruholmen Lighthouse, the northernmost lighthouse in Norway, is located here.

    The road we are driving on provides access for Havøysund to the mainland, but it can close in winter due to snow.

    Selvika

    Alpine Ski Resort

    This is a rest stop and concrete sculpture that sits at the end of the Selvika Bay. The sculpture was completed in 2012 and was supposed to magnify the experience of walking from the road down to the seaside. In this area many remains of settlements from Neolithic times as well as Sami culture have been found.

    Havøysund

    Havøysund is the municipal centre for the Måsøy municipality. The population is 976 and most people work in the fishing industry. There are fish processing factories, a boat yard, a petrol station, doctors, and a church. Havøysund is home to Måsøy Museum, which consists of tools and technical equipment used by fishermen.

    Where to Go From Here

    After visiting Havøysund, we continued our drive to Honningsvåg, the northernmost city in the world. From there, we visited North Cape. 

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

    Downloadable Version of This Guide

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

  • Drive it Yourself: the Hardangervidda Tourist Road

    Drive it Yourself: Hardangervidda Tourist Road

    In this article...

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    The drive: Hardangervidda Tourist Road

    Eidfjord

    This drive begins in Eidfjord. You can find a detailed guide to Eidford below. 

    Eio River & Eidfjord Lake

    Natural Attraction

    The river is 2.1km (1.3 mi) long and runs from lake Eidfjord down into the Eid Fjord. We’ll see the Eidfjord Lake soon; it’s a moraine-dammed lake located just outside the village of Eidfjord.

    Øvre Eidfjord

    Village

    Øvre Eidfjord is a small village on the southern end of the Eidfjord Lake. The town has a population of around 200 and it serves as the last major stop before crossing the Hardangervidda Plateau.

    Norsk Natursenter

    Museum

    Øvre Eidfjord is home to the Norsk Natursenter, which is where you can learn about the nature in the area. Technology is used to allow for interactive experiences and learn about the flora and fauna of the area. There’s also a lovely film about the plateau made by Ivo Caprino. If you have the time, I recommend stopping here to learn a little more about Hardangervidda.

    Måbødalen

    Natural Attraction

    Måbødalen is a unique and narrow valley that will take you from Øvre Eidfjord to Hardangervidda. The deep and steep valley is the result of ice and water having cut into the slacker and more open valleys. The valley is studied with regards to its geological process and the interaction between ice and rivers.

    The valley was almost impassable before 1790, when bridges were built, and a stairway was completed. The first road was built here in the early 20th century; it opened in 1916 and included three bridges. The road is known for its hairpin turns, and today is only for cyclists and pedestrians. The original road through the valley was the first road between east and west Norway over Hardangervidda.

    Luckily for us there is now a new road; the new road is from 1986 and is wider and has many more tunnels.

    Johan Christian Dahl painted Måbødalen, a landscape painting that is on display at the KODE art museum in Bergen. It’s pictured above. 

    Before you get to the more dramatic part of the valley, you’ll pass a small museum about the cultural landscape of Måbødalen.

    Vøringsfossen

    Natural Attraction

    Vøringsfossen is the 83rd highest waterfall in Norway, which itself isn’t an impressive statistic. Rather, it is the setting that makes Vøringsfossen worth seeing. The waterfall has a total drop of 182m (597ft) and is perhaps the most famous waterfall in the country.

    The waterfall was hardly known to anyone besides the locals until 1821, when professor Christopher Hansteen estimated the height of the waterfall. He was on his way to Hardangervidda to make astronomical observations at the time. The way he estimated the height was by throwing stones down the edge and measuring the time they took to fall with his pocket watch. He estimated the height to be 280m (920ft); in 1893 the real height was realised by using string.

    In 2020, a new pedestrian bridge opened across Vøringsfossen; it was placed in sections by helicopter. The pedestrian bridge has received a lot of criticism, which many describing it as quite ugly.

    Fossli Hotel

    Hotel

    Fossli Hotel is a historic hotel overlooking the Måbø Valley and Vøringsfossen waterfall. The hotel was built by Ola L. Garen (1857 – 1915), who saw the potential of the area and the slow introduction of tourists. Before the hotel, there was only a walking path up the valley with 1,500 stairs. Thanks to the hotel, a new road was built through the valley instead. All the materials to build the hotel had to be carried on horseback from Eidfjord up to the top of the hill. Today the hotel is run by Erik Garen, the great grandson of Ola Garen.

    Fossli Hotel is built in the art nouveau style.

    The hotel owns a Zimmerman piano where Edvard Grieg composed Norwegian Folk Songs, Opus 66.

    Room rates

    Hardangervidda Plateau

    Scenic Area

    Hardangervidda is a well-known mountain plateau that spreads across parts of western, central, eastern, and southern Norway. It is the largest plateau of its kind (peneplain, or eroded plain) in Europe, and it has a cold year-round alpine climate. The highest point is the Sandfloegga, which reaches a height of 1,721m (5,646ft).

    The landscape is characterised by barren, treeless, moorland with lakes, rivers, and streams. The western side is rockier, while the eastern side is flatter and more heavily vegetated. The geology is extremely ancient; the rolling fells are remnants of mountains that were worn down by glaciers during the ice ages.

    Settlements from the Stone Age have been found in the area. The people who lived here were likely linked to the reindeer migration. Additionally, there are ancient trails across the plateau. Hardangervidda is still a key route between east and west; highway 7 being the way across.

    The Hardangervidda Plateau is above the tree line. The alpine climate means that there are arctic animals and plants here further south than anywhere else in Europe. There is a large wild reindeer herd here; it is believed to be the largest in the world with up to 10,000 reindeer.

    In 1981 much of Hardangervidda was designated a national park. The Norwegian Mountain Touring Association (DNT) has a network of huts and paths across the plateau. There are two visitor centres: the Norsk Natursenter in Øvre Eidfjord and the Hardanger Nasjonalparksenter, close to Rjukan.

    The Star Wars movie, The Empire Strikes Back, was shot on Hardangervidda; the plateau provided the basis for the Hoth sequences.

    Sysendammen

    Dam

    Sysendammen (Sysen Dam) is a rock-filled embankment dam. It holds back Lake Sysen, which is the main reservoir for the Sy-Sima Hydroelectric Power Station. The water supply to Vøringsfossen is regulated by the dam, and there is a requirement for a minimum water supply during the summer.

    The dam is 81m (266 ft) high, 1,157m (3,796ft) long and 248m (814ft) wide.

    Buskerud (Formerly known as Viken) County

    We have crossed into the county that from 2020 – 2022 was known as Viken. At time of writing, the Viken sign was still by the road. This sign may not be up when you drive through; the county was established in 2020 with the merging of three separate counties. However, the three counties were not happy with the decision and in 2021 a parliamentary election saw the parties wanting to dissolve Viken win. On the 23rd of February 2022, a vote of 49 against 38 saw the decision to split Viken finalised. So, in the near future, Viken will be split up again. For purposes of this video, I’ll talk about the county that used to be here and will likely come back: Buskerud.

    Buskerud county is a historically important county in Norway. The area around Ringerike was likely a small kingdom and Norway’s kings Olav Tryggvason and Olav Haraldsson grew up in Ringerike.

    The first element of the name, buske, refers to ‘bishop’, while the last element means ‘clearing, farm’. Historically, the bishop’s farm was one of the largest in Buskerud and was important during the Reformation. The farm became property of the Danish Crown and served as the residence for the king’s bailiffs until 1668.

    Agriculture, lumber, wood-pulp mills, and other related industries are the county’s main economic activities. There is a lot of hydropower thanks to the rivers Begna and Rands. Buskerud also has a large, forested area.

    Hol Municipality

    Hol is a mountainous municipality that sees 90% of the area over 900m above sea level. The coat-of-arms depicts three silver anvils on a blue background. The anvil was chosen to symbolise the former smithies in the municipality. The municipality was famous for the production of axes, blades and knives, and iron mining took place here in the Viking Age.

    Samegammene

    Souvenir Shop

    Samegammene is a small shop and fur company that began sixty years ago, when Amund Johansen from Northern Norway was forced to sell his reindeer herd after World War II and move south. He took his family with him and settled in Hardangervidda, where he was given the job as a reindeer herder. However, he sustained an injury from that work and decided to focus on tourism instead.

    Several ‘gamme’ have been bult around Hardangervidda. A ‘gamme’ is an ancient form of an earth hut, and from these they sell Sami products and souvenirs. Here you will find souvenirs but also handmade fur mittens and hats. The building was owned by the daughter of Amund Johansen until 2017, when she sold it out of the family. The current owners keep the gamme in memory of Amund Johansen.  

    Haugastøl

    Ski Town

    Haugastøl is the first town you’ll visit after a while. It is primarily a ski resort with various hotels and cabins. There is also a train station here, Haugastøl station, which is on the Bergen – Oslo Railway.

    Haugastøl is one end of the popular Rallarvegen cycling route – it’s an 83km track from Haugastøl to Finse (a town not accessible by road, just train). The road was originally a service road used by workers building the Flåm Railway, but now it is one of the most famous cycling tracks in the country. 

    Ustaoset

    Ski Town

    Ustaoset is a small village located on the Bergen to Oslo Railway. The village came to prominence when the railway opened in 1909 as it was a good spot for people to visit to go skiing. Families from Bergen and Oslo built cabins in Ustaoset and used the train as a way to get there. Due to Norway’s strict laws, it is now very difficult to build a new cabin in Ustaoset. Whenever one is up for sale, it is very popular and is often sold very quickly and for a high price.

    Ustaoset is mentioned in Jo Nesbø’s book The Leopard; the mountain resort cabins play a key role in the murder mystery.

    Geilo

    Ski Town

    Geilo is the main town in Hol municipality and is one of the most well-known ski resorts in the country. The town is in the Hallingdal valley at roughly the halfway point on the Bergen to Oslo railway.

    Geilo is noted for being the first ski resort in Norway and it was built up after the opening of the railway in 1909. The ski season lasts from late October until late April, and there are numerous small ski centres that make up one resort: Geilo Skiheiser. In addition to 39 downhill slopes, there are 220km of cross-country ski tracks.

    In the town centre you’ll find some shops, a supermarket, and a few restaurants. Around 2,500 people live in Geilo all year round, so there is a school, cinema, library and police station.

    Hagafoss

    Village

    Hagafoss is a small village in the upper part of the Hallingdal valley. It is located on the main highway between Bergen and Oslo, but here we take the Fv50 (Norwegian county road 50) towards Aurland.

    Hol Gamle Kyrkje

    Historic Site

    Hol Gamle Kyrkje is a 13th century church in Hol municipality. The church was originally a small stave church but has been rebuilt multiple times. The last time it was rebuilt was in 1939, and today it doesn’t have the design that makes it a stave church. It’s believed the floors of the church are the original staves from the stave church. The church is also known for the fact that it has a gutter in the apse.

    Vestland County

    We have crossed back into Western Norway!

    Aurland Municipality

    Aurland is a municipality in Western Norway that includes the popular villages of Aurland, Flåm, Undredal and Gudvangen. It is also home to the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Naerøyfjord.

    People settled here around 2,000 years ago to farm the area, and agriculture is still important in Aurland. Tourism began coming here in the mid-19th century, primarily from England. They took part in sport fishing and hunting.

    The coat-of-arms depict a goat’s head; a goat is a symbol of the municipality because of their historic production and importance of goats cheese and goat farming.

    Aurland Valley

    Natural Attraction

    Aurlandsdalen is a 40km (25 mi) long valley that was carved out by glaciers.

    Aurlandsdalen represents some of the most beautiful and magnificent in Norwegian nature. The valley has been an important trade and traffic road from the ancient times and was probably in use from the early Viking Age. The route was the shortest route between western and eastern Norway in pre-historic times. There are a number of very old farms in the valley that were permanently inhabited until the turn of the 20th century. There are also mountain dairy farms here (called ‘støls’) that can be spotted high on the mountains.

    The rare mountain flower “mountain queen” can be found in the valley. There are almost 500 plant varieties here. The soil is very rich in minerals formed from phyllitt in the rocks.

    Today many use Aurlandsdalen as a popular day hike (6-7 hours), or you can hike all the way to Finse in 3-4 days. It is one of the best-known tourist tracks in Norway

    As we went down, you saw the huge powerlines. The Aurland river system was developed in the 1970s for power production. The environmental impacts of hydroelectric development are notable; the great waterfalls have been substantially reduced. With the introduction of the tunnels, the water level in the river gorges has been drastically reduced. The Aurlands River is now no longer one of the finest salmon rivers in Norway. Farmers no longer drive cattle, pigs and goats to spend the summer at the old farms. The valley has been characterised, like many other valleys, by gradual urbanisation.

    Aurland

    Village

    Aurland is a small village with a population of around 800. The village is the location of the Aurland Shoe Factory, where the famous penny loafers were first made. Another interesting place to visit in Aurland is the Vangen Church, a historic stone church from 1202.

    Aurlandsfjord

    Fjord

    The Aurlandsfjord is a 29km (18 mi) long fjord and is a branch of the Sognefjord, the longest fjord in Norway. The fjord is deep and narrow, generally reaching less than 2km (1.2 mi) wide. Most of the mountains are up to 1800m (5,900ft) tall.

    Flåm

    We have arrived at Flåm, our final destination for this drive. Flåm is a small population with around 300 people, but is one of the most visited places in Norway thanks to the Flåm Railway. 

    You can read the Flåm travel guide below. 

    Next Drive

    Flåm to Bergen

    Flåm to Bergen on the E16

    Follow the next drive as we make our way back to Bergen on the E16. 

    Previous Drive

    Voss to Eidfjord

    Making a day trip out of Hardanger? Read about the stretch of road between Voss and Eidfjord. 

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Drive it Yourself: The Senja Tourist Road

    Drive it Yourself: Senja Tourist Road

    Senja is the second largest island in Norway (outside of Svalbard) and is located close to the Vesterålen archipelago. The fishing industry is dominant in Senja as the waters here are some of the richest in the country. Other important industries are graphite mining and potato and potato products.

    The northern coast of Senja has open sea, while the west coast faces the islands of Andøya and Krøttøya. The west coast is famous for its steep and rugged mountains coming out from the sea, while the eastern and southern parts are milder.

    Senja has earned the nickname “Norway in miniature” because of the islands diverse scenery that reflects almost the entire span of Norwegian nature. Senja is known for its natural environment across Norway.

    In this article...

    Downloadable Version of This Guide

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    All of our digital guides come with interactive Google maps, making your trip much easier!

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    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    The drive: Senja Tourist Road

    Gryllefjord

    Village

    This tour begins at the ferry pier at Gryllefjord. We had taken the ferry across from Andenes that morning, which is very likely how you’ll be doing the drive. 

    Gryllefjord is a small fishing village in the Senja Municipality in Troms and Finnmark. Gryllefjord has been known as a fishing village since the 17th century, and from the late 19th century the village got new steam-powered fishing vessels to take part in cod fishing.  While fishing remained after the war, in recent years the place has experienced a sharp population decline. In the 1970s, there were 1,000 people living here, while in 2021 there were only 382.

    Senja Municipality

    Senja is a municipality in Troms County, with the main town being Finnsnes. The municipality consists of the entire island of Senja (Sami name: Sážžá), some smaller surrounding islands, and a small part of the mainland. The meaning of the name is unknown, but it might relate to the verb sundra, which means ‘tear’ or ‘split apart’, referring to the fjords that cut into the island.

    Senja wins the prize for my favourite coat of arms!

    Torsken

    Village

    Torksen used to be its own municipality, but from 2020 it was merged with Senja. Torksen, which translates to “the cod” in English, is close to the rich fisheries of Vesterålen and therefore fishing is the main industry. The name, however, comes from the rock formation overlooking the village, which previously looked a bit like a cod. Unfortunately, the rock formation has since collapsed.

    The fish-rich fjord has always provided a good life for people here, and Torsken attracted many fishermen. There is still fishing here, including a salmon and trout fish farm, a salmon slaughterhouse, and a herring and white fish farm. The village has a kindergarten; the school closed a few years ago and now students attend the school in Gryllefjord.

    Torsken Church

    Torsken Church is a historic church on Senja Island. The red, wooden church dates to 1784 and seats around 100 people. The first church on the site was mentioned in 1589, but it’s likely the church was built in 1400. Many believe it was built here by fishermen around that time and reflected the wealth and interest of this area. Additionally, it probably stood several metres to the north. In 1784, the old church was torn down and replaced with the present building, but they used many of the same materials. While the church is not a museum today, it’s still worth seeing as it is one of the few historic churches here.

    To get here, you’ll see a right-hand turn off the Fv86. The drive is short but stunningly beautiful; be sure to stop for photos. 

    Senja Troll

    Monument

    The Senja Troll was an experience centre and home to the Senja Troll, which was the world’s largest troll. Unfortunately, the troll burned down in 2019 and the park has since closed. There were shops, kids playgrounds, and a café here. You’ll see the entrance to the park, but it’s abandoned today. 

    Bergsbotn

    Viewpoint

    Bergsbotn is a scenic overlook of the fjord and surrounding mountain peaks. The platform is clearly marked with roadsides and has a parking lot. 

    Bergsbotn is also a fjord arm and settlement with a tiny population – around fifty people. It is located on the innermost part of the Bergsfjord.

    Skaland

    Village

    Skaland is a small town just a few minutes off the Fv862. It has a supermarket with restrooms, so it’s a great place to stop!

    Tungeneset

    Scenic Viewpoint

    Tungeneset is one of the most scenic stops on the Senja Tourist Road. There is a walkway that takes you along the shoreline towards a view of the mountain Oksen (with the sharp peaks), also known as ‘The Devil’s Jaw’, as well as a lovely view out to the North Sea.

    Ersfjord Beach

    Beach

    Ersfjord is a picturesque beach area overlooking the peaks of Oksen and the Ersfjord. The area used to be very isolated, but since 2004 it has had a tunnel connection and is now featured as part of the Senja Tourist Road. Around 40 people live here today.

    Ersfjord is known for having one of Norway’s most expensive road toilets. Called Gulldassen, the toilet cost 3.75 million NOK to build. The toilet was built in 2014. Luckily, the toilet was praised for its design when it completed, and it has become something of an attraction. Click here to see an article (in Norwegian) about the toilet. 

    When we visited there was a school group out fishing. They offered us some of their cod, but we had no way to take it with us!

    Ersfjord is an excellent place to observe the northern lights in winter, or in summer you can swim here under the midnight sun.

    Senjahopen and Mefjordvær

    Village

    With a population of 250, Senjahopen is one of the larger villages on the island Senja. Until the tunnel was completed in 2004, Senjahopen was very isolated. Even though Skaland is 10km (6 mi) away, it took over an hour to drive. Now, as we saw, it takes about 15 minutes. The village is one of the most important fishing villages in Senja thanks to its proximity to the fishing grounds. It is also where you’ll find a lot of the tourist activities. Thanks to its location on Hopsvatnet, a bay in the Mefjorden, Senjahopen is sheltered from the weather and wind.

    About 3km (2 mi) past Senjahopen is Mefjordvær, a historic fishing village. 

    Botnhamn

    Village

    Botnhamn is a small village in Senja with a population of around 300. The village is historic; it is mentioned in 1370 as a farm, and archaeological discoveries from the Stone Age, Iron Age and Middle Ages indicate that this area has been populated for a long time.

    The most known discovery is the Silver Treasure of Botnhamn from around 1000AD. It’s a necklace and the only known one to have a rune inscription on it. The rune inscription reads “We went to Frisland and fought the warriors, and we shared the booty between us”. The treasure is on display at the Tromsø Museum.

    From Botnhamn you can take a ferry to the island of Kvaløya, which neighbours the city of Tromsø – it’s a lot quicker than driving to Finnsnes first.

    Husøy

    Village

    Husøy is a small village located on the entirety of the island of Husøy, which is in the middle of the Øyfjorden. Husøy is well-known in Norway due to its picturesque setting. The population is about 285 and the main industry here is fishing. Up until a few decades ago the only access to the island was by boat, but now there is a tunnel and 300m long road connecting the island to the mainland.

    Because Husøy is exposed to bad winds coming in from the sea, the houses on the island have to be roped to the ground. People chose to settle here because of the close proximity to the fisheries as well as the lack of risk of landslides.

    Note – if you want to explore the island, park your car off the island. There is nowhere to park on the island. 

    Gibostad

    Village

    Gibostad is a historic village on the island Senja. Gibostad was originally the centre for the municipality, before it was replaced by Finnsnes in the 1960s. Gibostad is located at the narrowest point that separates Senja from the mainland, and for a long time it was projected to become the main centre of Northern Norway. However, in 1794 Tromsø was chosen instead.

    Gibostad was originally a Hurtigruten port of call, and it was one of the first ports on the ship way back in 1838 (Hurtigruten as we know it today is from 1893, but its predecessor was operating a service in Northern Norway throughout the 19th century). This service was of crucial importance to the development of the town. A commercial centre grew in Gibostad, and in the summer there was a huge market here. Eventually everything was moved to Finnsnes, and since then Gibostad has been a small village.

    Some of the old buildings from Gibostad have been preserved, but sadly many were torn town. Ever since the 1990s there has been a renewed interest in preserving Gibostad, and a market is arranged once a year like the old times.

    Senja’s main high school is located at Gibostad, and the schools specialises in agricultural studies.

    Finnsnes

    Finnsnes is the main town for the Senja Municipality. It is not located on the island but is instead on the mainland – separated from Senja by the Gisundet straight. The Gisund Bridge connects Finnsnes to the outer suburbs Silsand and Laukhella on Senja island. The town has all the services you’d expect for a town this size, including schools, a hospital, etc.

    Finnsnes is a modern town. Over the last 100 years it has seen rapid development, largely thanks to the introduction of a Hurtigruten stop as well as increase in industry.  Finnsnes is today an important centre for transportation for Senja both on land and sea. Fishing and agriculture are still important industries, with major companies for fish processing located here. Fish farming is growing in importance.

    Finnsnes is often described as the ‘Gateway to Senja’ thanks to its proximity to the island. While Senja remains far more traditional and less developed, Finnsnes is a good alternative for staying while exploring Senja. While not as scenic as Senja, it has shopping malls, restaurants, hotels, and multiple transportation connections, making it a good place to base yourself.

    Continue the drive

    The E6 between Nordkjosbotn & Narvik

    Time to turn around and begin the journey south! We join with the E6 and continue south to Narvik. 

    Previous Drive

    Andøya Tourist Road

    See the previous day’s drive on the Andøya Tourist Road.

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Drive it Yourself: Harstad to Andenes on the Andøya Tourist Road

    Drive it Yourself: Harstad to Andenes on the Andøya Tourist Road

    This drive doesn’t have to begin in Harstad. The Andøya Tourist Road is close to the Lofoten Tourist Road, so you can easily do this from Svolvær, for example. 

    The Andøya Tourist Road is one of Norway’s most remote tourist roads, and in many ways, it feels like one of the country’s best-kept secrets. Located close to the far more famous Lofoten Islands, this road takes along the rough coastline past some of the most stunning scenery Norway has to offer.

    Andøya Island (explained in detail later in this driving guide) is a unique island. It is the only place on the Norwegian mainland where dinosaur fossils have been found, it is famous for its Arctic cloudberries, and whales, puffins and seals can be seen for large parts of the year.

    While the tourist road itself is short, the drive is well worth the time it takes to get to this remote part of the world.

    In this article...

    Downloadable Version of This Guide

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    Online Guide

    Downloadable Guide

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    The drive: Harstad to Andenes

    Harstad

    Harstad is the second largest city in Troms (after Tromsø). It’s a good place to spend the night thanks to its large selection of hotels and restaurants. The YouTube video begins in Harstad.

    For information about Harstad, head to the travel guide  page. 

    Sørvik

    Village

    Sørvik is a small village located close to Harstad. The village has a historical museum that opens in the summer. They’ve collected log buildings from around Harstad and recreated the museum like an old farm and village. The museum aims to show the Norwegian home and lifestyle in the 19th and early 20th century, though some of the architecture dates back to before the 19th century.

    Sandtorg

    Village

    Sandtorg is a small village with a population of around 300. It is an old settlement; there has been a trading post here since the 13th century. Sandtorg grew in importance in the 18th century when pilot services were added for foreign and local ships. The trading post lasted until 1945, when the Norwegian Amy’s communication services took over operations after German occupation. The army returned the post to civilian use in the 1990s and today the trading post still stands with a hotel and restaurant.

    In 2014, three coins from the Middle Ages and two pieces of payment silver dating to the Viking times were found here. The two coins were minted under Eirik Magnusson and date to 1285-1290. The third coin is from 1483-1513. In 2020, it was concluded that Sandtorg is the only Viking Age trading place in Northern Norway.

    You can spend the night at Sandtorgholmen Hotel, which is built on the site that has been used as the trading post since the 19th century. The original site was further north. Prices start at around 1200 NOK for a standard room for one night.

    You can visit the hotel website here: https://www.sandtorgholmen.no/?lang=en

    Tjeldsund County

    Tjeldsund Municipality

    Tjeldsund (Sami name: Dielddanuorri) is a municipality that’s part of the Ofoten traditional district and the Central Hålogaland district. The main village in the municipality is Evenskjer.  The main education and training centre for Norway’s firemen, Norges Brannskole, is in Fjelldal in Tjeldsund. A naval base is also located here at Ramsund. Besides that, there is some small industry including farming, fishing, banking, and transport.

    Kongsvik

    Village

    Kongsvika is a small village with around 300 people living there. It has cabins for rental and a petrol station. 

    Nordland County

    Nordland County

    Nordland County is located along the north-western coast of the Scandinavian peninsula. Due to its huge size and low population, it is one of the least polluted areas in Europe. The county is defined by steep mountains near the sea and a lowland area between the mountains and the sea. The Arctic Circle cuts through the county.

    Troms County

    Troms County

    We cross back into Troms County. 

    Troms County existed up until 1 January 2020, when it was merged with Finnmark County to make Troms og Finnmark. However, at time of writing, there are rumours the two will split up. So, I’m going to provide information just about Troms.

    The area has been settled since the Stone Age, and the first of the current ethnic groups to settle in the county were the Sami people. Archaeological evidence shows that a Norse-based culture existed here in the Late Roman Iron Age (200-400AD).

    The Norse settled along the coast and some of the larger fjords, while the Sami lived in some fjord areas and inland. The southern part of Troms was a petty kingdom in the Viking Age. Trondenes (today’s Harstad) was an important Viking power centre and gathering place.

    Troms takes its name from the island Tromsøya where the city Tromsø is located. The area is in the northern part of the Scandinavian peninsula, and due to its low population and distance from high density European cities, it is one of the least polluted areas in Europe.

    With its latitude of nearly 70 degrees north, the area has cool, short summers but mild winters due to the Gulf Stream. The area experiences the midnight sun between May and July and then the polar night between November and January.

    Outside of the big cities, fishing remains an important industry and there are several important fishing ports throughout the county. Tromsø is the commercial centre for the northern part of the county, while Harstad is the centre for the southern part of the county.

    Kvæfjord Municipality

    Kvæfjord (Sami: Giehtavuotna) is in the traditional region of Central Hålogaland with the main village being Borkenes. The municipality is known for its agriculture and farming, with the quality of the strawberries being particularly famous.

    The long hours of daylight and low summer temperatures are great for strawberries, making them more tasteful than berries grown in warmer climates. Potatoes are also particularly well known from this region, and the fjords are known for their good herring. Chicken farming for egg production and pig farming are also important.

    Kvæfjord is a historic region, and burial mounds and items found during excavations indicate that there have been settlements here since the Iron Age. One of the oldest farms, Vebostad, has traces from 300BC. Many of the names in the area have Iron Age and Viking Age origin. For example, Vebostad has ‘ve’ in it, which is an old word meaning sanctuary, residence, and pagan sacrificial site. Another farm, Hundstad, may be connected to the famous Viking Tore Hund.

    Sami people have lived in Kvæfjord for a very long time, but the historical information is scattered. It is known that the Sami lived along the fjords, particularly Austerfjord, as well as in the inland areas. In the Storjord area are traces of Sami settlement from the 17th to 19th centuries.

    Langvassbukta

    Village

    Kvæfjord (Sami: Giehtavuotna) is in the traditional region of Central Hålogaland with the main village being Borkenes. The municipality is known for its agriculture and farming, with the quality of the strawberries being particularly famous.

    The long hours of daylight and low summer temperatures are great for strawberries, making them more tasteful than berries grown in warmer climates. Potatoes are also particularly well known from this region, and the fjords are known for their good herring. Chicken farming for egg production and pig farming are also important.

    Kvæfjord is a historic region, and burial mounds and items found during excavations indicate that there have been settlements here since the Iron Age. One of the oldest farms, Vebostad, has traces from 300BC. Many of the names in the area have Iron Age and Viking Age origin. For example, Vebostad has ‘ve’ in it, which is an old word meaning sanctuary, residence, and pagan sacrificial site. Another farm, Hundstad, may be connected to the famous Viking Tore Hund.

    Sami people have lived in Kvæfjord for a very long time, but the historical information is scattered. It is known that the Sami lived along the fjords, particularly Austerfjord, as well as in the inland areas. In the Storjord area are traces of Sami settlement from the 17th to 19th centuries.

    Sortland Municipality

    Sortland (Sami name: Suortá) Municipality is part of the traditional region of Vesterålen. It is located in the southern part of Vesterålen on the islands Langøya and Hinnøya, and the municipality surrounds the inner part of the Eidsfjorden and the Sortland Strait. The midnight sun occurs from 23 May to 23 July, while the polar night is from 30 November to 12 January. The region is popular for observing the northern lights.

    History

    The region is mentioned in the Viking Sagas, where it is written as the home of Karle and Gunnstein, who took part in Tore Hund’s campaign against King Olav. The first church is mentioned in written sources in 1370.

    Yacht skipper Søren Mørch from Bergen settled here and started a yacht trade in 1659. This is the year Sortland is considered to be founded.

    Industry

    Sortland is home to the Coast Guard Base in Norway. Tourism is also important, as is agriculture. Parts of the municipality were known in the latter half of the 19th century as one of Norway’s best regions for herring. The herring adventure here helped lay the foundation or the establishment of Hurtigruten. While the herring aren’t as plentiful as back then, there are still fishing in Sortland.

    Sami Activity

    Sortland has a small Sami population. A Sami family runs reindeer herding on Hinnøya. There used to be a reindeer husbandry, but it was closed in 1972. Some place names in the region come from Sami words.

    Culture

    Sortland is regarded as one of the best music communities in Norway and the local band Madrugada has been one of the best in the country. The Sortland Jazz Festival takes place every autumn, and some of the world’s leading jazz musicians have taken part.

    Sortland is the only municipality in Vesterålen that has seen a stable increase in the popular over the past 25 years.

    Sortland

    If you want to go into Sortland, you’ll take the Sortland Bridge across the town (instead of continuing straight towards Andøya). You come to this junction as you are crossing through the village Strand (you see Sortland across the strait and you see the massive bridge well in advance). 

    Sortland has a population of around 5,500 and is the largest town and commercial centre in Vesterålen.

    As you drive through Sortland, you will notice many of the buildings are painted blue. The local artist Bjørn Elvenes came up with the idea to bring colour into the city and attract tourists too. The idea wasn’t too popular amongst the locals, but it was adopted as a millennium project by the city. However, it didn’t go very well. Elvenes wanted more artistic control in creating Sortland into a 3D-like painting, while the architects wanted to use colour to highlight the features of the buildings.

    Elvenes fell out with the council and began to cooperate with the buildings directly, while others chose the councils plans. Because of that, the blue buildings are not as unified as they could be. Not all the buildings are blue, but enough of them are that you’ll wonder what’s going on.

    Sortland has a massive shopping mall, Sortland Storsenter, where you’ll be able to buy groceries, alcohol, clothing, cosmetics, etc. If you need anything, I recommend stopping here as Andenes doesn’t have so much. There are also cafes, restaurants, takeaway and petrol stations in Sortland. 

    Andøy Municipality

    Andøy is the northernmost municipality in Nordland, and forms part of the Vesterålen archipelago. The population of Andøya has decreased by 6.8% over the last ten years, and the main settlement is Andenes. The meaning of Andøy is unknown, though the last element means ‘island’.

    The municipality is spread across the island of Andøya and Hinnøya. The mid-section has bogs and marshes known for their Arctic cloudberries, and there are numerous lakes here too. The island is the only place in continental Norway where coal and fossils from dinosaurs are found. The Forfjorddalen nature reserve has some of the oldest pine trees in Scandinavia – some are more than 700 years old. Andøys is also the place where Egga, the edge of the continental shelf, is closest to the land.

    The municipality has a strong connection to aviation, with the 333 Squadron of the Air Force being stationed at Andøya Airport. The Andøya Space Centre is involved in international cooperation of the polar atmosphere and the northern lights. Andøya Airport is proposed to be closed by 2025, with air traffic moving to Evenes Airport.

    The fishing industry is still important to the municipality, and Andenes is one of the country’s largest fishing harbours and one of Northern Europe’s largest port facilities.

    Forfjord

    Village

    The name of the village is Forfjord, which comes from the name of the fjord the village is built around. The nature reserve here has the oldest living pine trees in Northern Europe, with some of them dating back to 830 AD. It is assumed that the forest was a source of timber and tar for Viking ships, and there are settlements and burial sites that are yet to be excavated.

    A famous person in Norwegian exploration came from Forfjord: Hans Jørgen Furfjord. He led the first expedition to stay the winter on Svalbard to hunt silver foxes, walruses, seals and polar bears. Items from his expeditions are on display in museums in Tromsø and Svalbard. Hans also kept diaries describing his adventures, including European monarchs visiting, his being imprisoned by British soldiers for not supplying them for free, barely surviving polar bear encounters, and surviving not freezing to death. He died at the age of 81 at his home in Forfjord. Some of his children emigrated to Canada and the United States, where some of his descendants live today. Some remain in Forfjord.  

    Risøyhamn

    Village

    Risøyhamn is a small village located on the island Andøya. It has a population of 216 and is serviced by the Hurtigruten twice a day – if you take the Hurtigruten southbound you see the village around 11:30am. There are many older buildings in Risøyhamn, including Gammelg ården from the early 18th century. There is a small open-air museum here with five buildings. Click here to view a website about the buildings (in Norwegian only). 

    Andøya Tourist Road

    Bjørnskinn

    Village

    Bjørnskinn is a small settlement with the Bjørnskinn church. The church was in use in 1589, but it was not new then. The church was replaced in 1740 and again in 1885.

    Bukkekjerka

    Rest Stop

    Bukkekjerka is a rest stop and rock formation that was historically a Sami sacrificial site. The word Bukkekjerka, which is a Sami word, refers to crevice (bohki) and rock (giergie). Several tracks lead to the top of the rock, where there is a small bench.

     

    There used to be a fishing village here called Børvågen that was very active during the herring fisheries period, but the town was reduced to rubble in a huge storm in 1879. Remains of Iron Age buildings, burial mounds and boat landings have been found in the area.

     

    There are toilets here, too. They are open from mid-May until the end of September. The rest area won an architecture design prize in 2018.

    Nordmela

    Village

    Nordmela is a fishing village with about 120 inhabitants. There are written sources that people have lived here since the 16th century, but there are findings from the Stone Age in the area. The area used to be a stronger fishing village, but one of the main companies went bankrupt in 2009. The local school closed down in 2008.

    Måtinden

    Mountain

    Måtinden is 408m (2000ft) high and the walking path is about 4km each way. The hike is not demanding, but some sections are a little steep.

    Read more about the mountain by clicking here. 

    Bleik

    Village

    Bleik is a small fishing village with a population of around 460. Bleik has one of the longest beaches in Norway, and it’s believed that’s where the village gets its name (bleik = white/pale). It’s believed people have lived here for a very long time, as an old farm mound can be traced back to 600AD and has a depth of 6 metres.

    15km offshore from the beach is the Bleik Canyon, a deep canyon with depths of up to 3000m. It’s common to see sperm whales here, which is why Andøya is known for its whale safaris.

    There is a triangle shaped island off the coast called Bleiksøya, and that’s where you can see puffins – it is the largest resort for puffins in Norway. These puffins are highly endangered due to the white-tailed eagle and the golden eagle, which are also often spotted here. The puffins are here from mid-April until mid-August, and puffin safaris can be taken from Bleik, which is what we did!

    Andøya Space

    Space centre

    Shortly after Bleik you’ll pass a large complex on your left; this is Andøya Space. It’s a rocket launch site, rocket range and space port. Over 1,200 sounding and sub-orbital rockets of various configurations have been launched from the site. The centre is also used for observing and studying the northern lights. Andøya Space has worked with the likes of ESA, NASA, JAXA and national and international universities.

    Andenes

    Andenes is a small fishing community located on the top of Andøya. The village is known as being one of the best places to set off on a whale safari, and it has a direct ferry connection to the famous Senja Island, which we will be taking the following day.

    You can read all about Andenes on the travel guide section of the website. 

    Continue the drive

    Senja Tourist Road

    It is an absolute must to combine the Andøya Tourist Road with the Senja Tourist Road!

    Previous Drive

    The Lofoten Islands Part 2: Svolvær to Harstad

    See the previous day’s drive through the Lofoten Islands. 

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Drive it Yourself: The Lofoten Islands Part 2: Svolvær to Harstad

    Drive it Yourself: The Lofoten Islands Part 2: Svolvær to Harstad

    The Lofoten Islands is probably one of the most famous places in Norway. Many people making the trip here want to head to Lofoten, and rightly so. Steep mountain peaks rise out of the ocean forming the Lofoten archipelago, one of the most scenic places in Norway. For thousands of years fishermen have lived at the foot of these peaks, building now iconic rorbuer and living off the cod fishing season. This history survives today on Lofoten, and you get to explore it with this road-trip!

    This road-trip is part one of two parts and takes you from Å in the south to Svolvær, which is a little over halfway up the archipelago.

    In this article...

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    Online Guide

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    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    Begin: Svolvær

    With a population of 4,720, Svolvær is the largest city in the Lofoten Islands. The settlement is old; Svolvær was first mentioned in 1567. However, Svolvær didn’t gain prominence until the early 20th century when the motorized boats needed a modern harbour.

    The cod fisheries are still an important industry in Svolvær, but tourism is one of the main industries in the city. Svolvær is also a major transportation hub and favourite starting point for tourists. The Hurtigruten also stops here twice a day. It is possible to do sea eagle safaris, whale watching tours, and take a scenic cruise into the nearby Trollfjord. Svolvær also has a downhill skiing centre. In town, you’ll find the Lofoten War Memorial Museum a Magic Ice Bar, and numerous galleries.

    Svolvær Airport

    Airport

    Svolvær Airport is a regional airport in Lofoten. While it is one of the main airports for Lofoten, it is likely not the one you will fly to if you are flying to Lofoten – instead, it’s better to fly to Harstad/Narvik and drive from there. Svolvær Airport is served by Widerøe and the routes are subsidized by the government with direct flights to Bodø, Oslo, and small communities in Nordland county. There are plans to make a new primary airport to serve the Lofoten and Vesterålen region, making it more attractive to visit out of the tourist season.

    Austnesfjorden

    Photo Stop

    The Austnesfjorden Photo Stop is located shortly after Svolvær Airport. The view is excellent over the fjord and you can see Sildpollnes Church in the distance.

    Sildpollnes Church is a small white wooden church from 1891. The church had some drama recently, when the current neighbour refused to let people through his property to get to the church because he said the 1890 agreement stated people could pass on foot, but it didn’t mention automobiles. The church closed in 2015 and the case went to court, with the neighbour loosing and the Lofoten District Court ruling in favour of the church.

    At the photo stop they have a place you can walk up to with a viewing platform. I’ve used a photo of it at the top of this page. This is where you get the view out to the church. 

    Hadsel Municipality

    Hadsel municipality is located on four main islands in Vesterålen – Hinnøya, Langøya, Hadseløya, and Austvågøya.

    Hadsel has been an important hub for the fishing industry, and due to its proximity to Lofoten has always been an important trading place for Lofoten residents. The oldest settlements were likely on the southern side of Hadseløya, but the main harbour has always been Stokmarknes.

    The name “Hadsel” comes from the Old Norse word “Hovdasegl”, meaning “main sail”. The name describes that Hadseløya can look like a merged mainsail on a Nordland boat when you see Hadseløya from Langøya. The Sami name for Hadsel is Ulpesuohkan, referring to the old name for the area (Ulvøya).

    The main airport here is the Stokmarknes Airport, the busiest small aircraft airport in Norway. Stokmarknes is also the birthplace of Hurtigruten, the Norwegian coastal ferry.

    The coat of arms represents four yellow rings, representing the four main islands the municipality is on.

    Vesterålen

    Traditional Region

    Many people confuse Vesterålen for Lofoten, but in fact they are two different areas. 

    Vesterålen is an archipelago between Lofoten and the Norwegian mainland. Many assume that the whole area is just Lofoten, but it’s just the southern half of the islands. The name “Vesterålen” means “western strait”. The landscape here is very mountainous, but the mountains are more rounded than Lofoten. The towns and villages are on the coastal brim between the mountains and the fjords. Fishing, in particular cod fisheries, has always been important to Vesterålen. Today there is also fish farming and some agriculture in the area.

    Hinnøya

    Island

    Hinnøya is the fourth largest island in Norway, and the largest out of Svalbard. The island has several fjords and typically has a mountainous and rugged terrain. There are also valleys and lakes; the treeline is around 400m above sea level.

    Lødingen Municipality

    Lødingen (Sami name: Lodek) is a region on the southwestern part of the island Hinnøya and it is part of the traditional district called Ofoten. While not technically part of Vesterålen, it does participate in councils with the municipalities in Vesterålen.

    The most historically important place in Lødingen is Hjertholmen, a farm and meeting place for residents and visitors. It was owned by the Lødingen Prestegård (rectory) in 1860, and a lighthouse was also built on the site along with the guardhouse and telegraph office. Today the place is used as a gathering place for schools, kindergartens, and visitors. The site is located in Lødingen village.

    Another important site is Hustad gård, which was a large Viking farm 1,000 years ago. The museum tells the story of agricultural history, but there is also a cultural path that follows the Iron Age settlement. The main church, Lødingen Church, is built on the site of the first church in the area, built in the 13th century.

    The tallest mountain in Lødingen is the mountain Møysalen, which is 1263m above sea level making it the second highest mountain peak on an island in Norway.

    Lødingen is known as “Biketown” because it has several annual bike races. The Lødingen Cycling Club is Norway’s largest cycling club in terms of population. Lofoten Insomnia is a race that begins in Å (at the far end of Lofoten) and ends in Lødingen.

    Another important event here is the Seafood Festival with concerts and an excellent selection of seafood. Sailboats from all over the country visit the festival, which takes place in the early summer.

    Troms County

    Troms County existed up until 1 January 2020, when it was merged with Finnmark County to make Troms og Finnmark. However, at time of writing, there are rumours the two will split up. So, I’m going to provide information just about Troms.

    The area has been settled since the Stone Age, and the first of the current ethnic groups to settle in the county were the Sami people. Archaeological evidence shows that a Norse-based culture existed here in the Late Roman Iron Age (200-400AD). The Norse settled along the coast and some of the larger fjords, while the Sami lived in some fjord areas and inland. The southern part of Troms was a petty kingdom in the Viking Age. Trondenes (today’s Harstad) was an important Viking power centre and gathering place.

    Troms takes its name from the island Tromsøya where the city Tromsø is located. The area is in the northern part of the Scandinavian peninsula, and due to its low population and distance from high density European cities, it is one of the least polluted areas in Europe.

    With its latitude of nearly 70 degrees north, the area has cool, short summers but mild winters due to the Gulf Stream. The area experiences the midnight sun between May and July and then the polar night between November and January.

    Outside of the big cities, fishing remains an important industry and there are several important fishing ports throughout the county. Tromsø is the commercial centre for the northern part of the county, while Harstad is the centre for the southern part of the county.

    Kvæfjord Municipality

    Kvæfjord (Sami: Giehtavuotna) is in the traditional region of Central Hålogaland with the main village being Borkenes. The municipality is known for its agriculture and farming, with the quality of the strawberries being particularly famous. The long hours of daylight and low summer temperatures are great for strawberries, making them more tasteful than berries grown in warmer climates. Potatoes are also particularly well known from this region, and the fjords are known for their good herring. Chicken farming for egg production and pig farming are also important.

    Kvæfjord is a historic region, and burial mounds and items found during excavations indicate that there have been settlements here since the Iron Age. One of the oldest farms, Vebostad, has traces from 300BC. Many of the names in the area have Iron Age and Viking Age origin. For example, Vebostad has ‘ve’ in it, which is an old word meaning sanctuary, residence, and pagan sacrificial site. Another farm, Hundstad, may be connected to the famous Viking Tore Hund.

    On the mountain Melåaksla, over 30 shooting shelters have been found on an inaccessible mountain path that the reindeer use as a migration route. As many as 40-50 people were involved in reindeer hunting here.

    Sami people have lived in Kvæfjord for a very long time, but the historical information is scattered. It is known that the Sami lived along the fjords, particularly Austerfjord, as well as in the inland areas. In the Storjord area are traces of Sami settlement from the 17th to 19th centuries.

    Kvæfjord is the home of the Kvæfjord Cake, the Norwegian national cake. The cake is a sponge cake baked with meringue, vanilla cream, and almonds.

    Boazovazzi

    Shop

    On the right is Boazovazzi, a shop where you can buy Sami products. The name is the Sami word for ‘Reindeer herder’ and here you can buy reindeer meat or Sami handicrafts. They also have six rooms for rent. Put the name of the shop in Google and check them out!

    Tjeldsund Municipality

    Tjeldsund (Sami name: Dielddanuorri) is a municipality that’s part of the Ofoten traditional district and the Central Hålogaland district. The main village in the municipality is Evenskjer.  The main education and training centre for Norway’s firemen, Norges Brannskole, is in Fjelldal in Tjeldsund. A naval base is also located here at Ramsund. Besides that, there is some small industry including farming, fishing, banking, and transport.

    Kongsvika

    Village

    Kongsvika is a small village with around 300 people living there. It has cabins for rental and the first petrol station we’ve seen in a while! It’s a good place to stop for a break. 

    Sandtorg

    Village

    Sandtorg is a small village with a population of around 300. It is an old settlement; there has been a trading post here since the 13th century. Sandtorg grew in importance in the 18th century when pilot services were added for foreign and local ships. The trading post lasted until 1945, when the Norwegian Amy’s communication services took over operations after German occupation. The army returned the post to civilian use in the 1990s and today the trading post still stands with a hotel and restaurant.

    In 2014, three coins from the Middle Ages and two pieces of payment silver dating to the Viking times were found here. The two coins were minted under Eirik Magnusson and date to 1285-1290. The third coin is from 1483-1513. In 2020, it was concluded that Sandtorg is the only Viking Age trading place in Northern Norway.

    You can spend the night at Sandtorgholmen Hotel, which is built on the site that has been used as the trading post since the 19th century. The original site was further north. Prices start at around 1200 NOK for a standard room for one night.

    You can visit the hotel website here: https://www.sandtorgholmen.no/?lang=en

    Sørvik

    Village

    Sørvik is a small village located close to Harstad. The village has a historical museum that opens in the summer. They’ve collected log buildings from around Harstad and recreated the museum like an old farm and village. The museum aims to show the Norwegian home and lifestyle in the 19th and early 20th century, though some of the architecture dates back to before the 19th century.

    Harstad

    Harstad is the second most populated city in Troms after Tromsø, with a population of 24,703.

    The oldest part of Harstad is the area Trondenes, which is mentioned in the Heimskringla (King’s Sagas) as a power centre in the Viking Age and a place to meet and discuss important issues. It wasn’t a trading place; Sandtorg is the only known Viking Age trading place in Northern Norway. It is possible to visit Trondenes, and that’s where we are going!

    Harstad city didn’t grow until the late 19th and early 20th centuries, when it emerged as an important trading place with a large harbour for ships. The city experienced rapid expansion with the introduction of steam ships.

    Continue the drive

    Andøya Tourist Road

    Visit Norway’s most remote tourist road at the end of the world!

    Previous Drive

    The Lofoten Islands Part 1: Å to Svolvær

    See the previous day’s drive through the lower part of Lofoten

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Drive it Yourself: The Lofoten Islands Part 1: Å to Svolvær

    Drive it Yourself: The Lofoten Islands Part 1: Å to Svolvær

    The Lofoten Islands is probably one of the most famous places in Norway. Many people making the trip here want to head to Lofoten, and rightly so. Steep mountain peaks rise out of the ocean forming the Lofoten archipelago, one of the most scenic places in Norway. For thousands of years fishermen have lived at the foot of these peaks, building now iconic rorbuer and living off the cod fishing season. This history survives today on Lofoten, and you get to explore it with this road-trip!

    This road-trip is part one of two parts and takes you from Å in the south to Svolvær, which is a little over halfway up the archipelago.

    In this article...

    Downloadable Version of This Guide

    All of our guides can be downloaded via our online store. 

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

    Online Guide

    Downloadable Guide

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    The drive: Å i Lofoten to Svolvær

    Å i Lofoten

    Not many places in the world have just one letter for a name, so Å is a special place. Å means stream in Norwegian – sometimes the village is known as Å i Lofoten because there are many places known as Å in Norway. Until the 1990s, Å was mainly a small fishing village specialising in stockfish, but since then tourism has taken over as the main economic activity.

    Unique buildings in Å have been preserved, including a cod steamer from 1850, a bakery from 1844, several fisherman’s cabins, an old trading environment and more. Several of the houses are listed.

    Moskenes

    Village

    Moskenes is both the name of the municipality we are currently in and the ferry pier that will take you to Røst or Bodø. The name of the village itself is Sørvågen. Sørvågen has a population of around 700. It has one museum, the Norwegian Telecom Museum, because this is where the first telegraph between Northern Europe and Europe was connected in 1867.

    In the village you’ll see Moskenes Church, the main church for the region. The church is from 1819 and seats 280 people. The earliest mention of a church is from 1589, but the church was not considered new then. The church was replaced in 1819 to make a more modern and stable church.

    Reine

    Photo Stop

    The photo of Reine seen above is perhaps one of the most famous photos of Norway. It generally circulates the internet when discussions of Norway’s beauty arise, and it’s often featured on travel websites. This photo requires very little effort to get! As you turn off the E10 onto the road to Reine (there’s only one), there is a parking lot on the left right before you take the bridge. Step out the car and you have this view. It’s that easy! It’s even on Google Maps as “Reine korttidsparkeringsplass” (Reine Short Term Parking Place)

    Reine

    Reine has been a trading post since 1743, and it is an important centre for the fishing industry. The tradition of the iconic fishermen’s cabins, or rorbu, dates to the 18th century. They were seasonal shelters with one end of the house on pillars onto the fjord, allowing boats to dock next to the building. In Reine, many people still make their living from the sea and have passed on marine skills and traditions for generations. The prime fishing season is from January to April, when the Norwegian Arctic cod are spawning in the waters of Lofoten.

    Today Reine is arguably the most famous village in Lofoten. The stunning scenery of steep mountain peaks contrasted with the fishing village have made the rounds on the internet, and it’s  hard to plan a trip to Norway without seeing the famous Reine shot.

    Sakrisøy

    Island

    Sakrisøy is a small island located at the foot of the mountain Olstind. The island has been dominated by one family, the Gylseth family, for over 130 years. In 1889, Sven Kornelius Gylseth bought the island and built a manor house. He ran the local shop, but he was also a fish buyer. For five generations, the family has been buying cod from the fishermen and trading it with European merchants. One of the historic ships, M/V Pøyken, is on display. It shows how fishermen lived in Lofoten.

    Today the family runs a hotel, shop and restaurant in the original buildings. This is a great alternative for a place to stay if Reine is too crowded for you. The island is tiny, though. Blink and you’ll miss it!

    Hamnøy

    Island

    Hamnøy is a small island and village just next to Sakrisøy. The first buildings were constructed here as residential and business buildings. Today the fishing industry is still important to Hamnøy, but it also has some places to stay and tours. Most of the buildings are owned by the company Eliassen Rorbuer, who have managed to preserve many of the original rorbuer and business buildings. Additionally, they have a restaurant and many activities available such as boat trips, bike rental, diving, and kayaking. If you want to stay away from busy Reine, this is a great alternative.

    You can find their website here: https://rorbuer.no/

    Akkarvikodden

    Photo Stop

    Akkarvikodden is a scenic rest stop with beautiful views out to the south east.

    Flakstad Municipality

    The municipality of Flakstad is located on the northern part of the island Moskenesøya and the entire island Flakstadøya. The name comes from the Flakstad farm, which is where the Flakstad Church was built. The coat of arms shows a fastening device used on boats.  As you can probably guess, the municipality’s economy is dominated by fishing. The fishing fleet consists mostly of small boats.

    Sund

    Village/Detour

    Sund is a small fishing village with around 100 permanent residents. It is believed to be one of the oldest settlements on the Lofoten Islands. Today a large part of the village is preserved with traditional rorbuer and there’s the Sund Fiskerimuseum, which has a traditional workshop.

    In Sund there is a blacksmith who makes cormorants out of metal. These have been made in Sund for over fifty years and are a well-known souvenir to buy from Lofoten. The black cormorant is known in Norwegian folklore for living in the outermost reefs in the ocean. It stands there drying its wings before the next dive.

    The Sund Fiskerimuseum is a private museum with a collection gathered by the locals. The rorbu buildings by the museum are original – these are the original fisherman’s cabins and not ones that were built as tourist accommodation. The décor inside also shows how fishermen lived.

    Ramberg

    Village

    Ramberg is the municipal centre for Flakstad. The town has everything you’d expect for a town this size – tourist office, library, school, petrol station, restaurant, and accommodation. As with every place in Lofoten, the main industry here is fishing. The Lofoten fishing season is the dominant type of fishing, and the fleet is made up of small boats. Some farms here have sheep, while larger properties have cows.

    Ramberg is one of the few places in Lofoten where you can see the midnight sun. It is one of the few settlements on the side of Lofoten facing the sea, so it is possible to see the sun above the horizon. Most settlements are on the eastern part of the islands, facing the Norwegian mainland and therefore blocked from seeing the midnight sun. Ramberg is particularly known for its beach, which is one of the most beautiful in Lofoten.

    Flakstad Beach

    Beach

    Flakstad Beach is one of the most famous beaches in Lofoten. Here you can go surfing or take surfing classes. By the beach is the Lofoten Beach Camp. You can set up your tent here or park your mobile home. Some indoor rooms are available, too. Lofoten Beach Camp offers surf lessons and surf rentals, including the appropriate wetsuit for the arctic surf.

    Lofoten Beach Camp: https://www.lofotenbeachcamp.no/surf

    Flakstad Church

    Church

    Flakstad Church is one of the oldest churches on the Lofoten Islands. It is first mentioned in 1430 but is likely older than that. The church has a limestone baptismal font that dates to 1250-1300. This isn’t the same church today; the older medieval building has now been replaced since a storm around the year 1780 blew it down. Shortly afterwards, a new church was built on the same site using timber from Russia. One of the new chandeliers also came from Russia. Some items from the earlier church have been preserved. Flakstad Church has a characteristic onion dome on top.

    Nappskaret Photo Stop

    Photo stop

    Nappskaret is a scenic photo stop by the rock. You park your car and head up a small staircase to get some incredible views of the island.

    Vestvågøya

    Island

    After Nappskaret photo stop there is an undersea tunnel to the next island.

    Vestvågøya is a large island in the Lofoten Islands both in terms of geography and population (around 10,000 people live here). A large part of the island is relatively flat and marshy, while the outer parts of the island are mountainous. The highest point on the island is the 964m (3163ft) mountain Himmeltindan.

    Vestvågøy Municipality

    Vestvågøy is the most populous municipality in all Lofoten. The administrative centre is Leknes, which is close by to where we are right now.

    Leknes

    Town

    Leknes is one of the main towns in Lofoten. Leknes is in the geographic centre of the Lofoten islands and is the main town on the island Vestvågøya. Leknes is one of the few towns in Lofoten that is not by the sea and therefore not dependent on fishing; it is more of an administrative centre. Leknes has one of the main airports for Lofoten and it also has a cruise port for larger ships. Here is an upper secondary school, sports hall, and police station. The Lofoten Centre, one of Northern Norway’s largest shopping centres, is located here. The Lofothallen is one of the main concert venues on the Lofoten Islands.

    Leknes doesn’t have the same history as many of the other places in Lofoten; it didn’t really see growth until the 1960s. Because of this, there are few characteristic wooden buildings here. There are areas around Leknes that have finds from the Iron Age and Viking Age, though. We are heading towards one of these famous places.

    Unstad Beach

    Beach/Detour

    This small village has only around 15 people living here, but it is one of the most visited places in Lofoten. It is regarded as one of the best surf beaches on the Lofoten Islands. The area has been inhabited since before 1350; it is mentioned as being older than other farm in Borge and Valberg (Borg is well-known from Viking times). The population was at its peak in the 1930s, when around 350 people lived here.

    Today the village is centered around tourism, especially surfing. There are some beaches from the Iron Age and Middle Ages here, too. If you want to go surfing here, check out the company Unstad Arctic Surf.

    They have an excellent page all about the history of surfing in the area, which I encourage you to read: https://www.unstadarcticsurf.com/article/about

    Haukland Beach is the first beach we pass. The village is tiny – only 12 people live here all year round. Still, Haukland Beach is known as one of the most beautiful beaches in Norway.  From Haukland Beach, you can follow the old road (hiking and cycling only) to Uttakleiv Beach for even more stunning views. There are also hiking trails to the tops of the mountain peaks you can see.

    Uttakleiv is one of the most beautiful beaches on Lofoten. There aren’t many places in the world where you can see steep mountains, white sandy beaches, and farms all in one shot! Uttakleiv is a great spot to sit and watch the midnight sign. A lot of people also come here to observe the northern lights.

    The village is a protected area for its natural habitat and historic farms. The old road that used to connect Uttakleiv to the rest of Lofoten is now a hiking and cycling track, and a great thing to do it you have the time.

    Borg Viking Museum

    Museum

    The Borg Viking Museum is a reconstructed longhouse built on the site where one of the biggest Viking Age archaeological discoveries was made. The inside musuem has all the artefacts on display, and in summer you can follow the cultural heritage trail down to a beach. 

    Torvdalshalsen

    Viewpoint

    At this viewpoint you get a very clear overview of the Borg region, and you can almost imagine the Vikings arriving at the harbour and making their way to the longhouse! There are some useful information signs here, too.

    Austvågøya

    Island

    The next island we cross onto is Austvågøya. Austvågøya is the north easternmost of the large islands in Lofoten. Around 9,000 people live on Austvågøya, and many of them live in Svolvaer – the largest city in Lofoten. The island mostly consists of mountains; the largest is Higravstinden, which is 1,146m (3,760ft). One of the most famous mountains, however, is Vågakallen (942m or 3,091ft) – it towers over the picturesque village of Henningsvaer. Vågakallen is famous in troll stories about the Lofoten islands – it is the name of one of the trolls who lived here. The famous Trollfjord is also located on Austvågøya.

    Kabelvåg

    Kabelvåg is the historic capital of Lofoten and finds have been made here that date back to the Viking Age. 

    Vågan Church

    Church

    This is the main church for the municipality of Vågan, and one of the most beautiful churches in Lofoten. The church is built in the cruciform style from 1898. The church seats around 1,200 people, making it the largest wooden building in Northern Norway. Because of that, it often gets the nickname Lofoten Cathedral.

    The earliest church dates to the 12th century when King Øystein Magnusson founded Vågan. It was likely a stave church and probably stood 200m (660ft) west of the present site. The church was renovated in the 1600s, but by the early 1700s it was too deteriorated and had to be rebuilt. A new church was completed in 1712, but by the late 1800s it was becoming too small due to the huge population growth in Kabelvåg. So, in 1898 a new church was built about 200m to the east of the old church.

    Svolvær

    With a population of 4,720, Svolvær is the largest city in the Lofoten Islands. The settlement is old; Svolvær was first mentioned in 1567. However, Svolvær didn’t gain prominence until the early 20th century when the motorized boats needed a modern harbour.

    The cod fisheries are still an important industry in Svolvær, but tourism is one of the main industries in the city. Svolvær is also a major transportation hub and favourite starting point for tourists. The Hurtigruten also stops here twice a day. It is possible to do sea eagle safaris, whale watching tours, and take a scenic cruise into the nearby Trollfjord. Svolvær also has a downhill skiing centre. In town, you’ll find the Lofoten War Memorial Museum a Magic Ice Bar, and numerous galleries.

    Continue the Drive

    The Lofoten Islands Part 2: Svolvær to Harstad

    Continue the drive through the Lofoten archipelago. 

    Previous Drive

    Norway's Coastal Road Part 5: Forøy to Bodø

    Bodø is a great place to visit before visiting the Lofoten Islands. 

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Drive it Yourself: Aurlandsfjellet Tourist Road

    Drive it Yourself: Aurlandsfjellet Tourist Road

    The Aurlandsfjellet Tourist Road is a short but incredibly diverse mountain road between the villages of Lærdal and Aurland near Flåm in Western Norway.

    The road is 45km in total length, and it has earned the nickname ‘Snow Road’ because snow typically remains on the mountains all year round. 

    With most of the tourist roads in Norway, you really can do them in either direction. For Aurlandsfjellet, however, I strongly recommend you start at Lærdal and head to Aurland. The reveal of the mountains and fjords is much more dramatic. 

    Aurlandsfjellet was completed in 1967, and it used to be the main road between the two towns. Since 2000, however, the main highway E16 has gone through the new Lærdal Tunnel instead. The Lærdal Tunnel is 24.5km long, making it one of the longest tunnels in the world. You can take the tunnel, I mean it is quicker, but the Aurlandsfjellet Tourist Road is much more fun!

    Here’s my guide on where to stop for photos and what to do on the Aurlandsfjellet Tourist Road. 

    In this article...

    Download this Guide

    All of our guides can be downloaded via my online store. 

    I offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on my online store. 

    Online Guide

    Downloadable Guide

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    Aurlandsfjellet Tourist Road

    Lærdal

    This drive begins in Lærdal, a historic trading town. Originally, the main market town used to be across the fjord in Kaupanger (see my article on Kaupanger Stave Church). However, some time in the 15th or 16th century, it moved acoss to Lærdal.

    Lærdal is on the historic postal route between Bergen and Oslo. When coming from Oslo, Lærdal was the place where the postal workers would leave their horses and embark on boats. They would dock at Gudvangen, take horses to Bolstadoyri, and then take boats to Bergen.

    In Lærdal you have to stop at the historic district. These are a collection of preserved wooden houses from the 17th to 19th centuries. The main street is Øyragata, and you can see different architectural styles from traditional building customs to Swiss and Art Nouveau, and then Classicism and Functionalism. There’s a telecommunications and postal museum in the town today.

    Another attraction is the Norwegian Wild Salmon Centre, which was opened by King Harald in 1996. It has a salmon ladder, salmon observatory, rapids with live fish, exhibitions, cafes and restaurant. 

    Vedhaugane

    Scenic Stop

    This is a scenic overlook of the mountains. From here, you can see the Jotunheimen massif – on a clear day! A walkway and an ‘infinity’ bench curve away from the road.

    Flotane

    Scenic Stop

    This is where you feel like you are on top of the world! There’s a rest area with benches and restrooms – they are only open in the summer.

    Stegastein Viewpoint

    Scenic Stop

    This is where you feel like you are on top of the world! There’s a rest area with benches and restrooms – they are only open in the summer.

    Aurland

    We’ve made it to Aurland! That was easy. There’s a lot to see and do in Aurland, so don’t simply pass through it on your way to Flåm. In fact, Aurland is the more peaceful version of Flåm. 

    The Previous Drive

    Sognefjellet Tourist Road

    Drive through the dramatic Sognefjellet Tourist Road to reach the Sognefjord. 

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Drive it Yourself: Sognefjellet Tourist Road

    Drive it Yourself: Sognefjellet Tourist Road

    Alright, this is the big one. The Sognefjellet Tourist Road is one of the highest roads in Norway and also the most notorious for bad weather. Winding its way from Lom through the Jotunheimen National Park and then down to the Lustrafjord, this road is nicknamed the ‘road over the roof of Norway’.

    This road has been a main traffic road since the Middle Ages, linking the coast and inland areas. Trading led to the transport of salt and fish eastwards while butter, pitch and leather were transported west.

    The decision to build a modern gravel road came in 1936 when the Minister of Social Affairs put together an initiative to employ unemployed young people. The road opened in 1938 and was the highest road at the time. It rises to a height of 1434m.

    This is where you experience true Norwegian nature. In winter the weather is so severe that the road has to close. In early spring, soon after the road opens, there are almost 10m high banks of snow on the side of the road.

    The Sognefjellet Tourist Road is notorious for bad weather, and boy did we experience that. I think I was mildly traumatised by the time I got to the bottom of the road! I would love to go back and film this when the weather is good. In the meantime, the footage and my photos aren’t great, but at least it paints a true picture of the power of nature on Sognefjellet.

    In this article...

    Download this Guide

    All of our guides can be downloaded via my online store. 

    I offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on my online store. 

    Online Guide

    Downloadable Guide

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    The drive: Sognefjellet Tourist Road

    Lom

    Lom has it all. Museums, shops, scenic views, a stave church and an award-winning bakery. It’s also surrounded by tourist roads. We begin our drive here after filling up with coffee and petrol.

     

    Flåklypa

    Scenic Site

    Flåklypa is the first place we’ll pass. The name comes from a Norwegian kids film called Flåklypa Grand Prix, where the place is described as a small mountain village. Historically, though, this is a place where farmers risked getting stuck when they pulled their hay on the ice – they got stuck in Flåklypa, which means ‘pinch’.

    Galdhøpiggvegen

    Mountain

    If the weather is incredible, or you can at least see the mountain peaks, take a 15km detour up Galdhøpiggvegen.

    Galdhøpiggvegen offers an ascent of 1300m and, on a clear day, you get a panoramic view of Northern Europe’s highest mountains at the end of the road. The road is open mid-May to the end of October but may close throughout the season if there’s bad weather. It’s a toll road, so after 5km you have to pay – card only.

    There are tourist cabins at the top if you want to spend the night there and do some outdoor activities.

    Lisanden

    Rest Area

    Liasanden is a beautiful rest area in a pine forest. You’ll find maps, information boards, and picnic benches.

    For more info, click here. 

    Jotunheimen Mountain Hotel

    Hotel

    This is a viewpoint and great place to stay.

    Sognefjellshytta

    Hotel

    This lodge is where the tourist road reaches its highest point: 1400m. Understandably, this accommodation is also a popular training centre for ski teams from all over the world. There is a common room here where you can go and warm up or use the restrooms, or you can opt to spend the night here.

    Click here to visit their website.

    Oscarshaug Viewpoint

    Viewpoint

    This is considered the best viewpoint on the scenic drive. Keep an eye out for it: it’s off one of the hairpin turns.

    Turtagrø Hotel

    Hotel

    This is a hotel that has been a central meeting place for mountaineers since the late 19th century. The first hotel was built here in 1888 by mountain guide Ola Berge. Another hotel was built 100m away in the same year. The two hotels merged in 1911 after Berge bought the other hotel. After Berges death in 1928, his daugther Kari took over the hotel. After the Sognefjellet tourist road was finished in 1938 and the climbing assocation build their own cabin, the purpose of the hotel changed.

    On 28 April 1940, during the closing days of the Norwegian Campaign in Southern Norway, German prisoners of war and their guards arrived at Turtagrø. They spent the night here on their way to Vadheim in Sogn.

    From 1953 Johannes Drægni ran the hotel. He introduced the first climbing school in Norway at the property. Ole Berge Drægni took over the hotel in 1997, but sadly he died in the tsunami in Thailand in 2004. His four-year-old daughter Sofie inherited the majority of the stocks. His daughter still owns 80% of shares in the company, but Ingunn Weka is the manager of the hotel.

    The old main building and staff accommodation burned down in 2001, destroyed old cultural monuments. A new hotel was rebuilt by 2002.

    The area is one of Norway’s most alpine areas with 24 peaks over 2,000m above sea level. Throughout the season you can take tours with mountain guides.

    Click here to visit their website

    Fortun Overlook

    Viewpoint

    Your last chance to get some photos high up in the mountains comes a short drive after the hotel. Here you can see the village Fortun.

    Fortun

    Village

    Fortun is a small village located on the innermost part of the Lustrafjord, which we’ll now be following.

    The village is best known for its church. The present church is from 1879, but it replaced an earlier stave church.

    The earliest existing records date back to 1330, but it’s believed there was a church here built in the mid-12th century. It was originally a stave church. As with many churches, it was too small and there were plans to tear it down. However, there was some controversy about this. So, consul Fredrik Georg Gade bought the stave church and moved it to Fantoft in Bergen. It became known as Fantoft Stave Church and operated as a museum. Sadly, in 1992 it was destroyed by an arson fire. A replica has been built, but virtually all the old parts have been lost.

    The picture is of the village between 1860 and 1880, and shows the stave church just before it was moved.

    Wittgenstein

    Historic Site

    Ludwig Wittgenstein (1889-1951) was an Austrian-British philosopher who worked in logic, mathematics, the mind, and language. What does this have to do with Fortun?

    Well, Ludwig visited Norway and fell in love with the region. He eventually made the decision to move here. He lived in various small villages before building a small wooden house to sit on a rock to overlook the Eidsvatnet lake. The place was nicknamed “Østerrike” (Austria) by the locals. The house was dismantled in 1958 but rebuilt by the locals in 2014. Now it’s a memorial, and a rest area along the road!

    You can see a photo of the house here. 

    Skjolden

    Village

    Skjolden is a small village of 250-300 people.

    At Skjolden, you’ll reach the turn-off for Urnes Stave Church. This is where you come some options.

    Where to go from here

    The Sognefjellet Tourist Road continues to Gaupne along the Lustrafjord. However, if you take this road, you’ll miss out on one of the biggest attractions: Urnes Stave Church. I know, there are a lot of stave churches in Norway, so what makes this one so special? Well, it’s the oldest stave church! It’s also the oldest one on the UNESCO World Heritage List. The church is only open in the summer months, as is the ferry to/from it, so I highly recommend going provided it is open.

    Still, we shouldn’t ignore the rest of the Sognefjellet Tourist Road. It’s a beautiful drive and there are things to see along the way. If it’s possible, I recommend doing option one.

    Option One: Drive to Urnes Stave Church, take the ferry to Solvorn, go back along the Fv55 (recommended)

    Take the 30-40 min drive to Urnes Stave Church, then take the ferry across to Solvorn. From Solvorn, drive back along the Sognefellet Tourist Road to Dale Church – the last major point of interest. Then you can come back to Solvorn.

    Option Two: Do the Sognefjellet Tourist Road to Solvorn, take the ferry to/from Urnes Stave Church

    This is a fine option too. The only reason I don’t recommend it is that the ferry is pricey, infrequent, and the drive to Urnes is quite scenic and recommended.

    Notes:

    • The road to Urnes Stave Church is very beautiful but it’s extremely narrow and a little daunting. It’s surprisingly long, too. This is why I don’t recommend doing it both ways
    • The ferry between Ornes (the village where the church is) is a little pricey, takes few vehicles, and can be crowded. Also, it operates few times during the day. It’s great one way.
    • You can take the ferry without a car and then walk up to Urnes Stave Church, but it’s up a semi-steep hill

    Urnes Stave Church

    Urnes Stave Church is the only UNESCO World Heritage-listed stave church in the world. It is open in the summer months as a museum, too!

    The Next Drive

    Aurlandsfjellet Tourist Road

    On the next day we finished our ultimate Norwegian road-trip by heading across the Sognefjord to Aurland. 

    The Previous Drive

    Geiranger to Lom

    This short but stunning drive connects the Sognefjellet Tourist Road with the Geiranger UNESCO region. 

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!