Road-trips

  • Drive it Yourself: The Lofoten Islands Part 2: Svolvær to Harstad

    Drive it Yourself: The Lofoten Islands Part 2: Svolvær to Harstad

    The Lofoten Islands is probably one of the most famous places in Norway. Many people making the trip here want to head to Lofoten, and rightly so. Steep mountain peaks rise out of the ocean forming the Lofoten archipelago, one of the most scenic places in Norway. For thousands of years fishermen have lived at the foot of these peaks, building now iconic rorbuer and living off the cod fishing season. This history survives today on Lofoten, and you get to explore it with this road-trip!

    This road-trip is part one of two parts and takes you from Å in the south to Svolvær, which is a little over halfway up the archipelago.

    In this article...

    Download This Guide

    All of our guides can be downloaded via our online store. 

    Online Guide

    Downloadable Guide

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    Begin: Svolvær

    With a population of 4,720, Svolvær is the largest city in the Lofoten Islands. The settlement is old; Svolvær was first mentioned in 1567. However, Svolvær didn’t gain prominence until the early 20th century when the motorized boats needed a modern harbour.

    The cod fisheries are still an important industry in Svolvær, but tourism is one of the main industries in the city. Svolvær is also a major transportation hub and favourite starting point for tourists. The Hurtigruten also stops here twice a day. It is possible to do sea eagle safaris, whale watching tours, and take a scenic cruise into the nearby Trollfjord. Svolvær also has a downhill skiing centre. In town, you’ll find the Lofoten War Memorial Museum a Magic Ice Bar, and numerous galleries.

    Svolvær Airport

    Airport

    Svolvær Airport is a regional airport in Lofoten. While it is one of the main airports for Lofoten, it is likely not the one you will fly to if you are flying to Lofoten – instead, it’s better to fly to Harstad/Narvik and drive from there. Svolvær Airport is served by Widerøe and the routes are subsidized by the government with direct flights to Bodø, Oslo, and small communities in Nordland county. There are plans to make a new primary airport to serve the Lofoten and Vesterålen region, making it more attractive to visit out of the tourist season.

    Austnesfjorden

    Photo Stop

    The Austnesfjorden Photo Stop is located shortly after Svolvær Airport. The view is excellent over the fjord and you can see Sildpollnes Church in the distance.

    Sildpollnes Church is a small white wooden church from 1891. The church had some drama recently, when the current neighbour refused to let people through his property to get to the church because he said the 1890 agreement stated people could pass on foot, but it didn’t mention automobiles. The church closed in 2015 and the case went to court, with the neighbour loosing and the Lofoten District Court ruling in favour of the church.

    At the photo stop they have a place you can walk up to with a viewing platform. I’ve used a photo of it at the top of this page. This is where you get the view out to the church. 

    Hadsel Municipality

    Hadsel municipality is located on four main islands in Vesterålen – Hinnøya, Langøya, Hadseløya, and Austvågøya.

    Hadsel has been an important hub for the fishing industry, and due to its proximity to Lofoten has always been an important trading place for Lofoten residents. The oldest settlements were likely on the southern side of Hadseløya, but the main harbour has always been Stokmarknes.

    The name “Hadsel” comes from the Old Norse word “Hovdasegl”, meaning “main sail”. The name describes that Hadseløya can look like a merged mainsail on a Nordland boat when you see Hadseløya from Langøya. The Sami name for Hadsel is Ulpesuohkan, referring to the old name for the area (Ulvøya).

    The main airport here is the Stokmarknes Airport, the busiest small aircraft airport in Norway. Stokmarknes is also the birthplace of Hurtigruten, the Norwegian coastal ferry.

    The coat of arms represents four yellow rings, representing the four main islands the municipality is on.

    Vesterålen

    Traditional Region

    Many people confuse Vesterålen for Lofoten, but in fact they are two different areas. 

    Vesterålen is an archipelago between Lofoten and the Norwegian mainland. Many assume that the whole area is just Lofoten, but it’s just the southern half of the islands. The name “Vesterålen” means “western strait”. The landscape here is very mountainous, but the mountains are more rounded than Lofoten. The towns and villages are on the coastal brim between the mountains and the fjords. Fishing, in particular cod fisheries, has always been important to Vesterålen. Today there is also fish farming and some agriculture in the area.

    Hinnøya

    Island

    Hinnøya is the fourth largest island in Norway, and the largest out of Svalbard. The island has several fjords and typically has a mountainous and rugged terrain. There are also valleys and lakes; the treeline is around 400m above sea level.

    Lødingen Municipality

    Lødingen (Sami name: Lodek) is a region on the southwestern part of the island Hinnøya and it is part of the traditional district called Ofoten. While not technically part of Vesterålen, it does participate in councils with the municipalities in Vesterålen.

    The most historically important place in Lødingen is Hjertholmen, a farm and meeting place for residents and visitors. It was owned by the Lødingen Prestegård (rectory) in 1860, and a lighthouse was also built on the site along with the guardhouse and telegraph office. Today the place is used as a gathering place for schools, kindergartens, and visitors. The site is located in Lødingen village.

    Another important site is Hustad gård, which was a large Viking farm 1,000 years ago. The museum tells the story of agricultural history, but there is also a cultural path that follows the Iron Age settlement. The main church, Lødingen Church, is built on the site of the first church in the area, built in the 13th century.

    The tallest mountain in Lødingen is the mountain Møysalen, which is 1263m above sea level making it the second highest mountain peak on an island in Norway.

    Lødingen is known as “Biketown” because it has several annual bike races. The Lødingen Cycling Club is Norway’s largest cycling club in terms of population. Lofoten Insomnia is a race that begins in Å (at the far end of Lofoten) and ends in Lødingen.

    Another important event here is the Seafood Festival with concerts and an excellent selection of seafood. Sailboats from all over the country visit the festival, which takes place in the early summer.

    Troms County

    Troms County existed up until 1 January 2020, when it was merged with Finnmark County to make Troms og Finnmark. However, at time of writing, there are rumours the two will split up. So, I’m going to provide information just about Troms.

    The area has been settled since the Stone Age, and the first of the current ethnic groups to settle in the county were the Sami people. Archaeological evidence shows that a Norse-based culture existed here in the Late Roman Iron Age (200-400AD). The Norse settled along the coast and some of the larger fjords, while the Sami lived in some fjord areas and inland. The southern part of Troms was a petty kingdom in the Viking Age. Trondenes (today’s Harstad) was an important Viking power centre and gathering place.

    Troms takes its name from the island Tromsøya where the city Tromsø is located. The area is in the northern part of the Scandinavian peninsula, and due to its low population and distance from high density European cities, it is one of the least polluted areas in Europe.

    With its latitude of nearly 70 degrees north, the area has cool, short summers but mild winters due to the Gulf Stream. The area experiences the midnight sun between May and July and then the polar night between November and January.

    Outside of the big cities, fishing remains an important industry and there are several important fishing ports throughout the county. Tromsø is the commercial centre for the northern part of the county, while Harstad is the centre for the southern part of the county.

    Kvæfjord Municipality

    Kvæfjord (Sami: Giehtavuotna) is in the traditional region of Central Hålogaland with the main village being Borkenes. The municipality is known for its agriculture and farming, with the quality of the strawberries being particularly famous. The long hours of daylight and low summer temperatures are great for strawberries, making them more tasteful than berries grown in warmer climates. Potatoes are also particularly well known from this region, and the fjords are known for their good herring. Chicken farming for egg production and pig farming are also important.

    Kvæfjord is a historic region, and burial mounds and items found during excavations indicate that there have been settlements here since the Iron Age. One of the oldest farms, Vebostad, has traces from 300BC. Many of the names in the area have Iron Age and Viking Age origin. For example, Vebostad has ‘ve’ in it, which is an old word meaning sanctuary, residence, and pagan sacrificial site. Another farm, Hundstad, may be connected to the famous Viking Tore Hund.

    On the mountain Melåaksla, over 30 shooting shelters have been found on an inaccessible mountain path that the reindeer use as a migration route. As many as 40-50 people were involved in reindeer hunting here.

    Sami people have lived in Kvæfjord for a very long time, but the historical information is scattered. It is known that the Sami lived along the fjords, particularly Austerfjord, as well as in the inland areas. In the Storjord area are traces of Sami settlement from the 17th to 19th centuries.

    Kvæfjord is the home of the Kvæfjord Cake, the Norwegian national cake. The cake is a sponge cake baked with meringue, vanilla cream, and almonds.

    Boazovazzi

    Shop

    On the right is Boazovazzi, a shop where you can buy Sami products. The name is the Sami word for ‘Reindeer herder’ and here you can buy reindeer meat or Sami handicrafts. They also have six rooms for rent. Put the name of the shop in Google and check them out!

    Tjeldsund Municipality

    Tjeldsund (Sami name: Dielddanuorri) is a municipality that’s part of the Ofoten traditional district and the Central Hålogaland district. The main village in the municipality is Evenskjer.  The main education and training centre for Norway’s firemen, Norges Brannskole, is in Fjelldal in Tjeldsund. A naval base is also located here at Ramsund. Besides that, there is some small industry including farming, fishing, banking, and transport.

    Kongsvika

    Village

    Kongsvika is a small village with around 300 people living there. It has cabins for rental and the first petrol station we’ve seen in a while! It’s a good place to stop for a break. 

    Sandtorg

    Village

    Sandtorg is a small village with a population of around 300. It is an old settlement; there has been a trading post here since the 13th century. Sandtorg grew in importance in the 18th century when pilot services were added for foreign and local ships. The trading post lasted until 1945, when the Norwegian Amy’s communication services took over operations after German occupation. The army returned the post to civilian use in the 1990s and today the trading post still stands with a hotel and restaurant.

    In 2014, three coins from the Middle Ages and two pieces of payment silver dating to the Viking times were found here. The two coins were minted under Eirik Magnusson and date to 1285-1290. The third coin is from 1483-1513. In 2020, it was concluded that Sandtorg is the only Viking Age trading place in Northern Norway.

    You can spend the night at Sandtorgholmen Hotel, which is built on the site that has been used as the trading post since the 19th century. The original site was further north. Prices start at around 1200 NOK for a standard room for one night.

    You can visit the hotel website here: https://www.sandtorgholmen.no/?lang=en

    Sørvik

    Village

    Sørvik is a small village located close to Harstad. The village has a historical museum that opens in the summer. They’ve collected log buildings from around Harstad and recreated the museum like an old farm and village. The museum aims to show the Norwegian home and lifestyle in the 19th and early 20th century, though some of the architecture dates back to before the 19th century.

    Harstad

    Harstad is the second most populated city in Troms after Tromsø, with a population of 24,703.

    The oldest part of Harstad is the area Trondenes, which is mentioned in the Heimskringla (King’s Sagas) as a power centre in the Viking Age and a place to meet and discuss important issues. It wasn’t a trading place; Sandtorg is the only known Viking Age trading place in Northern Norway. It is possible to visit Trondenes, and that’s where we are going!

    Harstad city didn’t grow until the late 19th and early 20th centuries, when it emerged as an important trading place with a large harbour for ships. The city experienced rapid expansion with the introduction of steam ships.

    Continue the drive

    Andøya Tourist Road

    Visit Norway’s most remote tourist road at the end of the world!

    Previous Drive

    The Lofoten Islands Part 1: Å to Svolvær

    See the previous day’s drive through the lower part of Lofoten

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Drive it Yourself: The Lofoten Islands Part 1: Å to Svolvær

    Drive it Yourself: The Lofoten Islands Part 1: Å to Svolvær

    The Lofoten Islands is probably one of the most famous places in Norway. Many people making the trip here want to head to Lofoten, and rightly so. Steep mountain peaks rise out of the ocean forming the Lofoten archipelago, one of the most scenic places in Norway. For thousands of years fishermen have lived at the foot of these peaks, building now iconic rorbuer and living off the cod fishing season. This history survives today on Lofoten, and you get to explore it with this road-trip!

    This road-trip is part one of two parts and takes you from Å in the south to Svolvær, which is a little over halfway up the archipelago.

    In this article...

    Downloadable Version of This Guide

    All of our guides can be downloaded via our online store. 

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

    Online Guide

    Downloadable Guide

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    The drive: Å i Lofoten to Svolvær

    Å i Lofoten

    Not many places in the world have just one letter for a name, so Å is a special place. Å means stream in Norwegian – sometimes the village is known as Å i Lofoten because there are many places known as Å in Norway. Until the 1990s, Å was mainly a small fishing village specialising in stockfish, but since then tourism has taken over as the main economic activity.

    Unique buildings in Å have been preserved, including a cod steamer from 1850, a bakery from 1844, several fisherman’s cabins, an old trading environment and more. Several of the houses are listed.

    Moskenes

    Village

    Moskenes is both the name of the municipality we are currently in and the ferry pier that will take you to Røst or Bodø. The name of the village itself is Sørvågen. Sørvågen has a population of around 700. It has one museum, the Norwegian Telecom Museum, because this is where the first telegraph between Northern Europe and Europe was connected in 1867.

    In the village you’ll see Moskenes Church, the main church for the region. The church is from 1819 and seats 280 people. The earliest mention of a church is from 1589, but the church was not considered new then. The church was replaced in 1819 to make a more modern and stable church.

    Reine

    Photo Stop

    The photo of Reine seen above is perhaps one of the most famous photos of Norway. It generally circulates the internet when discussions of Norway’s beauty arise, and it’s often featured on travel websites. This photo requires very little effort to get! As you turn off the E10 onto the road to Reine (there’s only one), there is a parking lot on the left right before you take the bridge. Step out the car and you have this view. It’s that easy! It’s even on Google Maps as “Reine korttidsparkeringsplass” (Reine Short Term Parking Place)

    Reine

    Reine has been a trading post since 1743, and it is an important centre for the fishing industry. The tradition of the iconic fishermen’s cabins, or rorbu, dates to the 18th century. They were seasonal shelters with one end of the house on pillars onto the fjord, allowing boats to dock next to the building. In Reine, many people still make their living from the sea and have passed on marine skills and traditions for generations. The prime fishing season is from January to April, when the Norwegian Arctic cod are spawning in the waters of Lofoten.

    Today Reine is arguably the most famous village in Lofoten. The stunning scenery of steep mountain peaks contrasted with the fishing village have made the rounds on the internet, and it’s  hard to plan a trip to Norway without seeing the famous Reine shot.

    Sakrisøy

    Island

    Sakrisøy is a small island located at the foot of the mountain Olstind. The island has been dominated by one family, the Gylseth family, for over 130 years. In 1889, Sven Kornelius Gylseth bought the island and built a manor house. He ran the local shop, but he was also a fish buyer. For five generations, the family has been buying cod from the fishermen and trading it with European merchants. One of the historic ships, M/V Pøyken, is on display. It shows how fishermen lived in Lofoten.

    Today the family runs a hotel, shop and restaurant in the original buildings. This is a great alternative for a place to stay if Reine is too crowded for you. The island is tiny, though. Blink and you’ll miss it!

    Hamnøy

    Island

    Hamnøy is a small island and village just next to Sakrisøy. The first buildings were constructed here as residential and business buildings. Today the fishing industry is still important to Hamnøy, but it also has some places to stay and tours. Most of the buildings are owned by the company Eliassen Rorbuer, who have managed to preserve many of the original rorbuer and business buildings. Additionally, they have a restaurant and many activities available such as boat trips, bike rental, diving, and kayaking. If you want to stay away from busy Reine, this is a great alternative.

    You can find their website here: https://rorbuer.no/

    Akkarvikodden

    Photo Stop

    Akkarvikodden is a scenic rest stop with beautiful views out to the south east.

    Flakstad Municipality

    The municipality of Flakstad is located on the northern part of the island Moskenesøya and the entire island Flakstadøya. The name comes from the Flakstad farm, which is where the Flakstad Church was built. The coat of arms shows a fastening device used on boats.  As you can probably guess, the municipality’s economy is dominated by fishing. The fishing fleet consists mostly of small boats.

    Sund

    Village/Detour

    Sund is a small fishing village with around 100 permanent residents. It is believed to be one of the oldest settlements on the Lofoten Islands. Today a large part of the village is preserved with traditional rorbuer and there’s the Sund Fiskerimuseum, which has a traditional workshop.

    In Sund there is a blacksmith who makes cormorants out of metal. These have been made in Sund for over fifty years and are a well-known souvenir to buy from Lofoten. The black cormorant is known in Norwegian folklore for living in the outermost reefs in the ocean. It stands there drying its wings before the next dive.

    The Sund Fiskerimuseum is a private museum with a collection gathered by the locals. The rorbu buildings by the museum are original – these are the original fisherman’s cabins and not ones that were built as tourist accommodation. The décor inside also shows how fishermen lived.

    Ramberg

    Village

    Ramberg is the municipal centre for Flakstad. The town has everything you’d expect for a town this size – tourist office, library, school, petrol station, restaurant, and accommodation. As with every place in Lofoten, the main industry here is fishing. The Lofoten fishing season is the dominant type of fishing, and the fleet is made up of small boats. Some farms here have sheep, while larger properties have cows.

    Ramberg is one of the few places in Lofoten where you can see the midnight sun. It is one of the few settlements on the side of Lofoten facing the sea, so it is possible to see the sun above the horizon. Most settlements are on the eastern part of the islands, facing the Norwegian mainland and therefore blocked from seeing the midnight sun. Ramberg is particularly known for its beach, which is one of the most beautiful in Lofoten.

    Flakstad Beach

    Beach

    Flakstad Beach is one of the most famous beaches in Lofoten. Here you can go surfing or take surfing classes. By the beach is the Lofoten Beach Camp. You can set up your tent here or park your mobile home. Some indoor rooms are available, too. Lofoten Beach Camp offers surf lessons and surf rentals, including the appropriate wetsuit for the arctic surf.

    Lofoten Beach Camp: https://www.lofotenbeachcamp.no/surf

    Flakstad Church

    Church

    Flakstad Church is one of the oldest churches on the Lofoten Islands. It is first mentioned in 1430 but is likely older than that. The church has a limestone baptismal font that dates to 1250-1300. This isn’t the same church today; the older medieval building has now been replaced since a storm around the year 1780 blew it down. Shortly afterwards, a new church was built on the same site using timber from Russia. One of the new chandeliers also came from Russia. Some items from the earlier church have been preserved. Flakstad Church has a characteristic onion dome on top.

    Nappskaret Photo Stop

    Photo stop

    Nappskaret is a scenic photo stop by the rock. You park your car and head up a small staircase to get some incredible views of the island.

    Vestvågøya

    Island

    After Nappskaret photo stop there is an undersea tunnel to the next island.

    Vestvågøya is a large island in the Lofoten Islands both in terms of geography and population (around 10,000 people live here). A large part of the island is relatively flat and marshy, while the outer parts of the island are mountainous. The highest point on the island is the 964m (3163ft) mountain Himmeltindan.

    Vestvågøy Municipality

    Vestvågøy is the most populous municipality in all Lofoten. The administrative centre is Leknes, which is close by to where we are right now.

    Leknes

    Town

    Leknes is one of the main towns in Lofoten. Leknes is in the geographic centre of the Lofoten islands and is the main town on the island Vestvågøya. Leknes is one of the few towns in Lofoten that is not by the sea and therefore not dependent on fishing; it is more of an administrative centre. Leknes has one of the main airports for Lofoten and it also has a cruise port for larger ships. Here is an upper secondary school, sports hall, and police station. The Lofoten Centre, one of Northern Norway’s largest shopping centres, is located here. The Lofothallen is one of the main concert venues on the Lofoten Islands.

    Leknes doesn’t have the same history as many of the other places in Lofoten; it didn’t really see growth until the 1960s. Because of this, there are few characteristic wooden buildings here. There are areas around Leknes that have finds from the Iron Age and Viking Age, though. We are heading towards one of these famous places.

    Unstad Beach

    Beach/Detour

    This small village has only around 15 people living here, but it is one of the most visited places in Lofoten. It is regarded as one of the best surf beaches on the Lofoten Islands. The area has been inhabited since before 1350; it is mentioned as being older than other farm in Borge and Valberg (Borg is well-known from Viking times). The population was at its peak in the 1930s, when around 350 people lived here.

    Today the village is centered around tourism, especially surfing. There are some beaches from the Iron Age and Middle Ages here, too. If you want to go surfing here, check out the company Unstad Arctic Surf.

    They have an excellent page all about the history of surfing in the area, which I encourage you to read: https://www.unstadarcticsurf.com/article/about

    Haukland Beach is the first beach we pass. The village is tiny – only 12 people live here all year round. Still, Haukland Beach is known as one of the most beautiful beaches in Norway.  From Haukland Beach, you can follow the old road (hiking and cycling only) to Uttakleiv Beach for even more stunning views. There are also hiking trails to the tops of the mountain peaks you can see.

    Uttakleiv is one of the most beautiful beaches on Lofoten. There aren’t many places in the world where you can see steep mountains, white sandy beaches, and farms all in one shot! Uttakleiv is a great spot to sit and watch the midnight sign. A lot of people also come here to observe the northern lights.

    The village is a protected area for its natural habitat and historic farms. The old road that used to connect Uttakleiv to the rest of Lofoten is now a hiking and cycling track, and a great thing to do it you have the time.

    Borg Viking Museum

    Museum

    The Borg Viking Museum is a reconstructed longhouse built on the site where one of the biggest Viking Age archaeological discoveries was made. The inside musuem has all the artefacts on display, and in summer you can follow the cultural heritage trail down to a beach. 

    Torvdalshalsen

    Viewpoint

    At this viewpoint you get a very clear overview of the Borg region, and you can almost imagine the Vikings arriving at the harbour and making their way to the longhouse! There are some useful information signs here, too.

    Austvågøya

    Island

    The next island we cross onto is Austvågøya. Austvågøya is the north easternmost of the large islands in Lofoten. Around 9,000 people live on Austvågøya, and many of them live in Svolvaer – the largest city in Lofoten. The island mostly consists of mountains; the largest is Higravstinden, which is 1,146m (3,760ft). One of the most famous mountains, however, is Vågakallen (942m or 3,091ft) – it towers over the picturesque village of Henningsvaer. Vågakallen is famous in troll stories about the Lofoten islands – it is the name of one of the trolls who lived here. The famous Trollfjord is also located on Austvågøya.

    Kabelvåg

    Kabelvåg is the historic capital of Lofoten and finds have been made here that date back to the Viking Age. 

    Vågan Church

    Church

    This is the main church for the municipality of Vågan, and one of the most beautiful churches in Lofoten. The church is built in the cruciform style from 1898. The church seats around 1,200 people, making it the largest wooden building in Northern Norway. Because of that, it often gets the nickname Lofoten Cathedral.

    The earliest church dates to the 12th century when King Øystein Magnusson founded Vågan. It was likely a stave church and probably stood 200m (660ft) west of the present site. The church was renovated in the 1600s, but by the early 1700s it was too deteriorated and had to be rebuilt. A new church was completed in 1712, but by the late 1800s it was becoming too small due to the huge population growth in Kabelvåg. So, in 1898 a new church was built about 200m to the east of the old church.

    Svolvær

    With a population of 4,720, Svolvær is the largest city in the Lofoten Islands. The settlement is old; Svolvær was first mentioned in 1567. However, Svolvær didn’t gain prominence until the early 20th century when the motorized boats needed a modern harbour.

    The cod fisheries are still an important industry in Svolvær, but tourism is one of the main industries in the city. Svolvær is also a major transportation hub and favourite starting point for tourists. The Hurtigruten also stops here twice a day. It is possible to do sea eagle safaris, whale watching tours, and take a scenic cruise into the nearby Trollfjord. Svolvær also has a downhill skiing centre. In town, you’ll find the Lofoten War Memorial Museum a Magic Ice Bar, and numerous galleries.

    Continue the Drive

    The Lofoten Islands Part 2: Svolvær to Harstad

    Continue the drive through the Lofoten archipelago. 

    Previous Drive

    Norway's Coastal Road Part 5: Forøy to Bodø

    Bodø is a great place to visit before visiting the Lofoten Islands. 

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Drive it Yourself: The Coastal Road Day 5 – Forøy to Bodø

    Drive it Yourself: The Coastal Road Day 5 – Forøy to Bodø

    The Coastal Road that runs from Brønnøysund to Bodø is one of Norway’s 18 national tourist roads. At 433km (269 mi), it is also the longest of all the tourist roads. You can’t do it in one day: some websites will recommend up to a week. In June 2021 Sean (the husband) and I did the coastal road in three days. It definitely felt quick and we couldn’t make all the detours we wanted, but we did it!

    I’ve put together a guide breaking down the coastal road. My guide includes the history & everyday life of the region, plus options for your own customisations. 

    Kystriksveien vs. Helgelandskysten

    The road has two names, and this can be pretty confusing. Kystriksveien begins in Steinkjer just outside Trondheim and provides more options for detours to the islands. 

    On the other hand, Helgelandskysten begins in Holm just south of Brønnøysund, where my guide begins. It features more-so on the one highway, known as the Fv17. 

    When driving the road, the brown tourist signs will follow the path of the Helgelandskysten national tourist road, which is on the Fv17. However, you can get a free guide online for the Kystriksveien. 

    Both roads end in Bodø. 

    Highlights of today’s section

    • This stretch of road is probably the most scenic part of the whole drive. We’ll pass steep snowy mountains, a glacier, and beautiful fjords
    • There is plenty to see on this road – Svartisen glacier, Gildeskål historic site, and Salstraumen maelstrom.

    In this article...

    Download this Guide

    All of our guides can be downloaded via our online store. 

    Download this guide to have it as a PDF ready to go for your road-trip!

    All downloadable guides come with an interactive Google Map for easier navigation. 

    Online Guide

    Downloadable Guide

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    The drive: Forøy to Bodø

    Forøy

    Village

    Forøy is a small village with several camping grounds and cabins for rent. It’s on the Fv17, making it a convenient place to begin today’s drive!

    You may or may not be staying in this area – we found it to be the easiest place to split the drive! You’re close to Svartisen glacier and some lovely hiking trails. Otherwise, Ørnes is another popular spot to spend the night. 

    Braset Picnic Area

    Scenic Overlook

    We are at the Braset picnic area, which is one of the best places to get a photo of Svartisen glacier. Svartisen is Norway’s second largest glacier, covering around 370km2. It used to be one continuous glacier, but from the 18th century it has been split in two: we are seeing the western glacier. The part of Svartisen you can see from here is Engabreen, one of the tongues of Svartisen glacier. Engabreen ends at the lowest point of any glacier on the European mainland, at 20m (66ft) above sea level.

    In 1992, the Norwegian Water Resources and Energy Directorate established a glacier laboratory, the ‘Svartisen subglacial laboratory’ the only one of its kind in the world. It is in a tunnel under Engabreen, and the researchers can see the underside of glacier. They take samples of the old ice and can get an understanding of how glaciers move. To access the underside of the glacier, researchers use hot water to melt a cave to get into the ice. The ice contracts quickly – in about 24 hours it’ll be cover.

    Svartisen is being affected by climate change. From 1930 to 1960 Engabreen retreated by about two kilometres in length and lost about 200m of thickness. It increased again between the 1970s and 1990s. As of 2010, the glacier arm has retreated over 100m. In total, over the last 100 years Svartisen has largely diminished. This has led to the emergence of land and water that has been under ice for thousands of years. Life forms have been established here.

    Near here is a ferry that will take you right up to the glacier in the summer months. You’ll see signs shortly after leaving this parking spot. On the other side, it is possible to go regular hiking or glacial hiking with a guide. Bikes can also be rented from the ferry pier.

    For information on ferry times, click here: https://www.engenbreenskyss.no/ruteinformasjon/

    Svartisen Tunnel (7.4km)

    Tunnel

    The tunnel is from 1986; before then, there was a ferry to take you to Ørnes. At the time when it opened, it was Norway’s longest tunnel. Today, it is the fourth-longest tunnel in Nordland county. It was also the first in Norway to be made with the use of a tunnel boring machine – the tunnel doesn’t have a centre line as it is rather narrow.

    Glomfjord

    Town

    Glomfjord is an industrial village located at the end of the Glomfjorden. The village is based around the Glomfjord hydroelectric power plant. Norsk Hydro began construction for fertilizer production here in 1912, with power production beginning in 1920. The facilities were bought by the state in 1918 but leased to Hydro in 1947. Today there is a large industrial park here with many industries.

    During World War II, the area was of importance to the occupying German forces due to the production of heavy water. The sabotage operation Operation Muskedunder took place here. Twelve commandos from England, Canada and Norway came ashore and carried out a sabotage operation against Glomfjord Kraftverk’s turbine hall. After the operation, the Germans gave up the development of an aluminium plant here. Eight of the saboteurs were arrested during the operation; the other four made it over the mountains to Sweden.

    The Glomfjorden is 21km (13 mi) long and varies from 1km to 3km (0.6 – 1.8 mi) wide.

    Neverdal

    Village

    Neverdal is a small village just outside Ørnes. The village has a supermarket, café, kindergarten, and a boating association. Some of the ladies in the village have started a shop for their handicrafts, called Krambua.The Neverdal School closed in 2019 and the pupils then had to travel to school in Ørnes. There is a private school in Neverdal. There are a lot of sport activities in Neverdal. Every May, the village hosts the Neverdal tournament, where around 50 teams register and play over one weekend.

    During World War II, there was a prison camp here with around 120 prisoners, mostly Russian and Ukrainian prisoners of war. There are bunker facilities in Neverdal as well as cannon positions. The students at the old Neverdal School wrote a book about Neverdal during World War II. 

    Ørnes Travel Guide

    Ørnes was originally a homestead and farm. In 1794, the then owner Elling Pedersen, received a permit to run an inn on the site. The homestead grew into a trading place and eventually a market town. Some of the buildings from the 1800s remain, including several dwellings, fisherman’s cabins, boathouses, and barns. You can find them in the town centre: the old homestead is a museum called Ørnes handelsted. You can learn more about the museum on their website: https://nordlandsmuseet.no/ornes-handelssted

    Today Ørnes is one of the stops for Hurtigruten, and it is often named the most beautiful approach to port on the entire Hurtigruten journey. If travelling north, Ørnes is the port where they begin the Arctic circle ceremony. 

    Reipa

    Village

    Reipå is the largest fishing harbour in Meløy municipality. Agriculture also takes place in the village. The local church, Fore Church, is from 1909 and is built in a neo-gothic, long church style. The church is a concert venue during the ‘Summer Day’ festival in Meløy.

    The village has a huge focus on being environmentally friendly, and the local school was received a Green Badge for its efforts to better the environment.

    Gildeskål Municipality

    Gildeskål Municipality is part of the Bodø region and the traditional district of Salten. The name comes from an old farm called Gildeskål, which is a famous historic site. We’ll go there on this drive.

    The municipality is primarily an agricultural and fishing municipality, and aquaculture is the largest industry.

    Ureddplassen

    Photo stop

    This is a scenic photostop and rest place with a view over the fjord towards the open sea. On a very clear day, you can see the Lofoten Wall on the horizon. Ureddplassen is also a memorial place, and there’s a monument here for those who left their lives when the submarine ‘Uredd’ hit a mine during World War II.

    You’ll find some public restrooms and a picnic bench here.

    Storvik

    Photo stop

    We are passing the rest stop Storvika. At Storvika you’ll see a stone vault bridge that connects the rest area with a sandy beach. It’s a nice spot to stop for photos.

    https://www.nasjonaleturistveger.no/en/routes/helgelandskysten?attraction=Storvika

    Gildeskål

    Town/Detour

    The churchyard consists of a medieval church of stone from the 12th century, the Gildeskål main church from 1881, the old rectory from the 18th century and two old storehouses.

    There have been people here for at least 1,000 years. The church was historically in the centre of the village. Based on the farm name and finds of objects and burial mounds from the Viking Age, it has been assumed that the church may have been a gathering place in pre-Christian times. The name Gildeskål can also refer to a meeting house or a guild hall. It is not known how old the church really is.

    The property today is maintained by the Nordland Museum. There are exhibitions about the place’s history, religious life, church customs and folk life. The white and red wooden buildings are the Gildeskål vicarage. These buildings are from around 1750.

    The Gildeskål Main Church is built in a neo-Gothic style from 1881. The old Gildeskål church is a medieval building in stone. It’s believed to be from the 12th century, though it is first mentioned in written sources from 1589.

    The cultural landscape around the churchyard is untouched by recent development. Burial mounds, old stone mounds and the old church path are examples of what has been preserved in the area. From the church hill there is an excellent view of the islands, shipping lanes, and flora in the area.  

    Bodø Municipality

    Bodø Municipality is the county capital for Nordland. Most of the population for the municipality lives around Bodø city as well as Saltstraumen, two places we’ll visit on this drive. The coat-of-arms reflects the midnight sun and is based on an old coat-of-arms from 1889.

    Saltstraumen

    Tidal Current

    Salstraumen is one of the strongest tidal currents in the world.

    I cover Saltstraumen in a separate article. 

    Godøystraumen

    Tidal Current

    Godøystraumen is a lesser known maelstrom near Saltstraumen. There is a carpark to the left of the road if you want to stop and take photos. A lot of people come here to go fishing. 

    Bodø

    We have arrived at our final destination, Bodø. You can find a comprehensive overview of Bodø on my dedicated travel guide page. 

    Continue the drive

    Lofoten Islands: Å to Svolvær

    After finishing the coastal road, why not take the ferry from Bodø to Moskenes and do the Lofoten Tourist Road?

    Previous Route

    Norway's Coastal Road Part 4: Sandnessjøen to Forøy

    The previous day, we drove from Sandnessjøen to Forøy on Norway’s Coastal Road. 

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Drive it Yourself: The Coastal Road Day 4 – Sandnessjøen – Forøy

    Drive it Yourself: The Coastal Road Day 4 – Sandnessjøen – Forøy

    The Coastal Road that runs from Brønnøysund to Bodø is one of Norway’s 18 national tourist roads. At 433km (269 mi), it is also the longest of all the tourist roads. You can’t do it in one day: some websites will recommend up to a week. In June 2021 Sean (the husband) and I did the coastal road in three days. It definitely felt quick and we couldn’t make all the detours we wanted, but we did it!

    I’ve put together a guide breaking down the coastal road. My guide includes the history & everyday life of the region, plus options for your own customisations. 

    Kystriksveien vs. Helgelandskysten

    The road has two names, and this can be pretty confusing. Kystriksveien begins in Steinkjer just outside Trondheim and provides more options for detours to the islands. 

    On the other hand, Helgelandskysten begins in Holm just south of Brønnøysund, where my guide begins. It features more-so on the one highway, known as the Fv17. 

    When driving the road, the brown tourist signs will follow the path of the Helgelandskysten national tourist road, which is on the Fv17. However, you can get a free guide online for the Kystriksveien. 

    Both roads end in Bodø. 

    Highlights of today’s section

    • This stretch of the road is pure nature: there aren’t many towns or settlements that we pass today, but the scenery is absolutely stunning.
    • On one of the ferries, we cross the Arctic Circle! You will see a marker to indicate where the Arctic Circle is.
    • For those interested in World War II history, we pass one of the remaining coastal forts: Grønsvik

    In this article...

    Download this Guide

    All of our guides can be downloaded via our online store. 

    Download this guide to have it as a PDF ready to go for your road-trip!

    All downloadable guides come with an interactive Google Map for easier navigation. 

    Online Guide

    Downloadable Guide

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    The drive: Sandnessjøen to Forøy

    Sandnessjøen

    Sandnessjøen is a small town on Norway’s coast. Here you’ll find a cosy town centre, some incredible murals, and even some Viking history!

    Helgeland Bridge

    Bridge

    The Helgeland Bridge is a cable-stayed bright that crosses the Leirfjorden between the mainland and the island of Alsta (where Sandnessjøen is).

    Facts:

    • Built 1989 – 1991
    • Officially opened in July 1991
    • Construction cost 200 million kr
    • Was a toll bridge until 23 June 2005
    • 1,065m (3,494ft) long
    • 12 spans – the longest is 425m (1394ft)
    • Maximum clearance below the sea is 45m (148ft)
    • Foundations extend to a depth of 31m (102ft)
    • In 2010, it was named Norway’s most beautiful bridge

    Leirfjord

    Population (2020): 2294

    Population density 5.1 inhabitants per square kilometre (13 sq/mi).

    Population has increased by 7.2% over the previous 10 years.

    The name comes from the Leirfjorden. The old name of the fjord is probably just Leiri, derived from the river Leira, which has its mouth at the end of the fjord. Leirr means ‘clay’. The Leirfjord is 20km (12 mi) long.

    The coat of arms represents forestry and agriculture in the municipality. Those are the main industries, along with fish processing.

    Levang - Nesna Ferry

    Ferry

    Levang is a small settlement. We are here to take the ferry to Nesna. 
    Timetable (PDF)

    Nesna

    Nesna is a small town with a population of 1761 spread over the municipality. The town has a long history of education, and one of the first higher education centres for teachers was here. The college, Nesna University College, is still in the town.

    Nesna Church is from 1880, though the earliest existing church is from 1589. Nesna is one of the ports of call on the Hurtigruten: the northbound ferry arrives at 5:30pm and the southbound at 11:15pm.

    Roadside Stops

    Scenic Overlooks

    The stretch of road between Nesna and Myklebustad is gorgeous. The best photo stops are on the opposite side of the road, and the best views are behind you. Trust your instinct and stop as much as possible!

    Rana Municipality

    This is the third largest municipality in Northern Norway (4,460km2 or 1,720 sq mi).

    Population 26,083 (2021) with a population density of 6.2 inhabitants per sq km (16/sq mi).

    Population has increased by 3.6% over the past 10 years.

    Most of the population lives in Mo i Rana.

    The name Rana is either Norse or Sami origin. It may come from the Norse river name Raðund, with Raðr meaning ‘fast’. The name is also associated with the Ume Sami legend of Sala Niejta (“daughter of the sun”) and Rana Niejta (“daughter of the earth”). In that case, Rana was the summer’s green ground for the reindeer husbandry. A Sami settlement near the Swedish border was called “Ranbyen”.

    The municipality is located just south of the Arctic circle, on the southern side of the Saltfjellet mountains. The main city Mo i Rana is so close to the Arctic Circle that parts of the sun are continuously over the horizon from early June to early July. There is no true polar night, though. There is often a lot of snow here in the winter, while summer days are among the warmest in Northern Norway.

    Rana municipality is rich in iron ore and has an industrial history dating back to 1799. The coat-of arms represent the forest (green) and the wealth of minerals (yellow). The Mo Industrial Park is from 1991 and was a result of the restructuring of the Norwegian Ironworks.

    Sjona Church

    Church

    On the right is Sjona Church. This church is from 1896 and was built as a small chapel. In 2003, the chapel was upgraded to full parish church status. It seats about 170 people. 

    Lurøy Municipality

    The municipality has a population of 1,890 with a density of 7.3 inhabitants per square kilometre (19/sq mi). The population has decreased by 0.5% over the last 10 years.

    Lurøy municipality is located just south of the Arctic Circle. The Lurøygården farm on the island of Lurøya is more than 200 years old and has a renaissance-style garden.

    Stokkvågen

    Village

    Stokkvågen is where you can take a ferry out to the islands that are part of Lerøy municipality. You don’t take a ferry here – keep going straight!

    Grønsvik Coastal Fort

    Historic Site

    The Grønsvik coastal fort was built by Soviet prisoners of war in the period 1942 to 1945 as part of the Atlantic Wall. The Atlantic Wall was designed to protect the German occupied territory from the British and American attacks.

    The main task of the fort was to defend the fjord areas towards Mo i Rana and Mosjøen, thus protecting the main road (now the E6) and the Nordlandsbanen (Nordland Railway) from attack.

    The main equipment at the Grønsvik fortress was four 155mm field cannons of French origin. The fort had ship cannons and could follow sea targets.

    After the war, the fort was subject to major damage. Most of the equipment was repurposed, while the cannons were melted down.

    Today it has been partly rebuilt and is now a museum. The exhibitions inside educated about World War II in this part of Norway. Outside you can follow marked trails to explore the ruins of the fort. There are information boards explaining what everything was. There is a memorial to the 77 Soviet and 65 Polish prisoners of war who were forced to participate in the construction of the fort.

    The indoor exhibitions are open in summer, while the surrounding area is open and free to walk around throughout the year.

    Kleivhalsen

    Scenic Overlook

    Park your car here and walk up the hill to get some amazing photos.

    Kilborghavn - Jektvik

    Ferry

    The ferry journey takes a little over an hour. Normally the staff onboard will announce when you cross the Arctic Circle, and you’ll see the globe by the water!


    Timetable (PDF)

    Ågskardet - Forøy

    Ferry

    It’s time for the last ferry of the day! This ferry takes you to Forøy, where the day’s tour ends. 

    We spent the night at a nearby campground before continuing north to our final destination, Bodø. 


    Timetable (PDF)

    Continue the drive

    Norway's Coastal Road Part 5: Forøy to Bodø

    Be sure to take the final stretch of the Coastal Road, which goes all the way to Bodø.

    Previous Route

    Norway's Coastal Road Part 3: Brønnøysund - Sandnessjøen

    The previous day, we drove from Brønnøysund to Sandnessjøen on the second part of the coastal road. 

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Drive it Yourself: The Coastal Road Day 3 – Brønnøysund – Sandnessjøen

    Drive it Yourself: The Coastal Road Day 3 – Brønnøysund – Sandnessjøen

    The Coastal Road that runs from Brønnøysund to Bodø is one of Norway’s 18 national tourist roads. At 433km (269 mi), it is also the longest of all the tourist roads. You can’t do it in one day: some websites will recommend up to a week. In June 2021 Sean (the husband) and I did the coastal road in three days. It definitely felt quick and we couldn’t make all the detours we wanted, but we did it!

    I’ve put together a guide breaking down the coastal road. My guide includes the history & everyday life of the region, plus options for your own customisations.

     

    Kystriksveien vs. Helgelandskysten

    The road has two names, and this can be pretty confusing. Kystriksveien begins in Steinkjer just outside Trondheim and provides more options for detours to the islands.

    On the other hand, Helgelandskysten begins in Holm just south of Brønnøysund, where my guide begins. It features more-so on the one highway, known as the Fv17.

    When driving the road, the brown tourist signs will follow the path of the Helgelandskysten national tourist road, which is on the Fv17. However, you can get a free guide online for the Kystriksveien.

    Both roads end in Bodø.

     

    Highlights of today’s section

    • You will get spectacular views of the Seven Sisters for most of the day
    • You can take a detour to the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Vega Islands
    • Pass historic Tjøtta, known for its old church and connection to Petter Dass.
    • The drive is not long, so you have the afternoon to explore Sandnessjøen

    In this article...

    Download this Guide

    Download this guide to have it as a PDF ready to go for your road-trip!

    All downloadable guides come with an interactive Google Map for easier navigation. 

    Online Guide

    Downloadable Guide

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    The drive: Brønnøysund to Sandnessjøen

    Brønnøysund

    Located on the coast and surrounded by islands, Brønnøysund is a fitting place to begin your coastal road-trip. The town (pop. 5,000) has some wonderful hiking trails in the nearby area. You can visit a fish farm at the Norsk Havbruksenter or try some locally grown herbs and wine at Hildurs Urterarium.

    My travel guide for Brønnøysund can be found via the link below.

    Vega Islands

    UNESCO Site/Detour

    The Vega Islands are a collection of small islands on the UNESCO World Heritage list. They are protected due to the unique relationship between the inhabitants and the eider ducks. The collection of eider down has taken place here for thousands of years. If you are visiting in summer, Vega is a great place to visit. They have a visitor centre that does tours in the summer. The ferries don’t run frequently, so you will need to make a whole day out of visiting Vega.

    The ferry to Vega leaves from the same spot where we’ll be taking the ferry to Andalsvågen.


    Click here for more information about the Vega Islands

    Horn - Åndalsvågen

    Ferry

    There are many ferries when doing the coastal road, so they are impossible to ignore. While it may seem daunting at first to take a ferry in Norway, the process is very easy and you’ll be a master of it by the time your drive is over!

    You drive onboard and your e-tag is scanned by a staff member. No need to do anything. The ferry journey takes 20 minutes.


    Ferry overview

    Vevelstad

    Vevelstad is part of the traditional Helgeland region. The municipality gets its name from the old Vevelstad Church. Rock carvings indicate that people have been here since the Stone Age. The main industries are agriculture, fish, fish processing and timber. Agriculture is based on cattle and sheep farming. There are no towns in the municipality, just scattered settlements. The population has declined by 60% ever since the municipality was established in 1916.

    Leknes

    Village

    If you have a bit of time to wait between ferries, there are some fun things to do in Vevelstad:

    • Visit Vevelstad Church: The church is from 1796 and seats about 250 people. When the church was renovated in 1871, many of the original items were sold or disappeared. One of the old bells can be found on a farm in Lofoten!
    • Vevelstad Museum: Behind the church is an open-air museum about the old farming traditions of Vevelstad. Click here to visit their website.
    • Handelstedet Forvik: The old trading place (Handelstedet) has been here for over 200 years, and it is one of Northern Norway’s oldest trading places. There is a lovely café and restaurant inside, and there are even five rooms available for rent. Click here to visit their website. 

    Forvik - Tjøtta

    Ferry

    Welcome to ferry number two! You have to time this one well with the first ferry. We didn’t, and we got stuck in Forvik for almost two hours. There’s no other way out of Forvik, and once you’ve visited everything mentioned above, you’re kinda stuck.

    This ferry takes just under an hour, so it’s a great opportunity to stretch your legs, have a coffee, and admire the views of the Seven Sisters.  Be sure to go and spot them! This is a great way to get a photo of the mountain peaks.


    Ferry overview

    Alstahaug

    Alstahaug is perhaps best known for the mountain chain The Seven Sisters, which is reflected in the coat of arms. The name comes from a farm, close to where the medieval Alstahaug Church is located. There has been a continuous settlement here since the Iron Age, and Alstahaug was a known place during the Viking Age.

    Alstahuag has long traditions in agriculture and aquaculture. There is also some oil industry here.

    Tjøtta

    Village

    As soon as you get off the ferry, you’ll be in the village of Tjøtta. This small community has a ton of history: Tjøtta is mentioned in the Heimskringla (Norse sagas) many times. It was the home of one of the most famous chieftains, Harek of Tjøtta. He was one of the leaders of the peasant army which killed Olav Haraldsson (later St. Olav). There is archaeological evidence of a settlement back to the Iron Age, and Tjøtta farm is the largest medieval farm in Northern Norway.

    Tjøtta International War Cemetery

    Historic Site

    The Tjøtta War Cemetery was established in 1970 as a place to bury victims of a huge tragedy during World War II. The Rigel sunk off the coast of Tjøtta on 27 November 1944. This tragedy killed more than 2,500 Soviet, Polish and Serbian prisoners of war, Norwegian prisoners and German deserters, German soldiers and Norwegian crew members. A total of 8,000 victims are buried here. It was Norway’s largest ship tragedy. The graves are anonymous, but there is a memorial stone here.

    The Seven Sisters

    Mountain Range

    The highlight of this drive is the Seven Sisters mountain, which you will see for most of the drive. But after Tjøtta, you’ll start getting some fantastic views of the mountains.

    The name ‘Seven Sisters’ (Syv søstre) comes from a famous troll legend. The seven sisters were troll sisters who were kept under the strict control of their father, Suliskongen. One night he fell into a deep sleep, and the troll sisters decided to sneak out – as young girls do!

    However, lying in wait was the Vågekallen, a big and powerful troll who was eager for a wife. He began to chase them, hoping to capture one (or more) of them. Eventually other trolls joined the chase, attempting to save the sisters.

    All of them had forgotten that when the sun comes out, they turn to stone. When the morning came, the troll sisters and their pursuers were petrified. They became the mountains that today form the Helgeland Coast. Many of the mountains you’ll pass on this trip are mentioned in this (or a similar) story.

    Hiking the Seven Sisters

    You can hike all the mountains in one day, but it’s only recommended for experienced hikers. The Norwegian Trekking Association estimates that it’ll take 13 hours to do.

    The mountains can be hiked individually, and Stortinden (910m) is considered the easiest one to hike.

    Want to get a good photo? This area is not the best spot. The best thing to do is get on a ferry and head out to an island off the coast of Sandnessjøen. I’ll show you how to do that in this guide 🙂

    Alstahaug Church & the Petter Dass Museum

    Historic Site

    The next stop is Alstahaug Church, perhaps one of the most famous churches in the region. It was built in the 12th or 13th century, and is considered one of the finest medieval churches in Northern Norway.

    Next to the church is a museum dedicated to Petter Dass. This is probably a museum more for Norwegians than visitors, because Petter Dass is well-known in Norway. He was a Lutheran priest and is considered to be the foremost Norwegian poet of his generation. He wrote baroque hymns and poetry about the Helgeland coast, which is famous today. The museum chronicles his life and work.

    Even if you aren’t interested in learning about Petter Dass, I recommend stopping to admire the beautiful Alstahaug Church, where he worked.

    Søvik - Herøy

    Ferry

    Another ferry! This ferry pier has many different ferries coming in and out, so make sure you are taking the one to Herøy – it’s often the biggest line. The ferry takes about 25 minutes and has some lovely views out to the Seven Sisters.


    Timetable (PDF)

    Herøy Municipality

    Welcome to the islands! You are in the municipality of Herøy, and there are about 1,700 islands here. The population here is 1,777. Likely due to the industrial activity here, the population has increased by 9.8% over the last 10 years.

    Herøy has a population of 1,777.

    The main industries are fishing, fish farming, and processing activities associated with this. Other important industries are agriculture (mostly sheep), transportation, services industries and tourism. Tourism is especially rising in Herøy, mostly due to its proximity to the Coastal Road. Also, the growth in popularity of the Vega Islands, which are close by, has contributed to Herøy’s growth. Herøy also has the best view out to the Seven Sisters, so a lot of people come here just to get a good photo.

    There is only one school here, and it is for primary and junior high. All upper secondary school students must commute to Sandnessjøen to attend school.

    There are many outdoor activities in Herøy, and the area has even been featured on national television to promote its kayaking. The roads here are also ideal for cyclists. There are many great walks on the mountains.

    There has been a lot of discussion about a bridge to the mainland – the two municipalities on the islands (Herøy and Dønna) are the largest in Norway without a connection to the mainland. Bridges and tunnels have been discussed many times, and it will likely be an underwater tunnel that’s built. However, it will take around 30 years to see it completed.

     

    Herøy Church

    Church

    The oldest church on the island is Herøy Church, which is from the 12th century. It’s located on the main road very close to the Herøy pier. The building has undergone serious changes since its construction, and now most of the church is built in stone.

    Dønna Municipality

    Dønna and Herøy are connected via the Åkviksundet Bridge, making Dønna a separate island. Dønna is made up of a large archipelago consisting of islands, islets and reefs. The population has decreased here by 4.2% over the last 10 years. The name comes from the farm Dønnes, and it means ‘rumble’ or ‘roar’ (probably referring to the swell of the waves). Much of the industry here focuses on fishing, aquaculture, and fish processing.

    The area is very historic, especially around Dønnes Farm. There are burial grounds from the Iron Age and Roman Iron Age. Northern Europe’s largest phallus is also located here, which is a fun little fact! It’s to honour the Norse gods Njord and Nerthus and is believed to be 1,600 years old. There are also burial mounds from the Viking Age.

    Many known people are from Dønna, including Gjeble Pederssøn (1490-1557), the first Lutheran Bishop in Norway and Petter Dass, whose museum we visited earlier.

    Dønna - Sandnessjøen

    Ferry

    Our last ferry of the day takes us to Sandnessjøen city centre, where this driving guide ends!

    You can view all my information about Sandnessjøen below.


    Timetable (PDF)

    Sandnessjøen

    You have made it to Sandnessjøen! This is a great place to spend the night as there are decent accommodation options, places to walk and things to see.

    You can find all my information for Sandnessjøen on my travel guide page. 

    Continue the drive

    Norway's Coastal Road Part 4: Sandnessjøen to Forøy

    See the next part of Norway’s Coastal Road.

    Previous Route

    Norway's Coastal Road Part 2: Namsos to Brønnøysund

    Explore the rugged central Norwegian coast!

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Drive it Yourself: Trondheim to Namsos on the E6

    Drive it Yourself: Trondheim to Namsos on the E6

    Welcome to my guide for the drive between Trondheim and Namsos. This drive primarily takes place on the European Highway 6, which runs practically the entire length of Norway. It is also partly the beginning of Norway’s coastal road (Kystriksveien), a famous scenic drive along a huge part of the coastline.

    While this drive may at first seem a little dull, there’s a lot of interesting places to visit along the way. There are sites that are important to Norway’s early Christianity years – Stiklestad, Munkeby Abbey. There are also historically significant places, such as Falstad ant Steinviksholm. Each place is a short detour off the E6 and a great way to break up the drive.

    Enjoy my guide to driving on the E6 (and Fv17) between Trondheim and Namsos!

    In this article...

    Download this Guide

    All of our guides can be downloaded via our online store. 

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

    Online Guide

    Downloadable Guide

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    The Drive: Trondheim to Namsos

    Trondheim

    This drive begins in historic Trondheim. You can easily spend a few days here – read my travel guide for more information. 

    Hell Train Station

    Station

    For a fun photo stop, visit Hell train station just next to the Trondheim Airport. Hell in Norwegian means ‘luck’, but for us non-Norwegians, it’s kinda funny.

    Skatval Church

    Church

    You’ll see Skatval Church on the right-hand side as you leave the Trondheim Airport area. This is a beautiful church in the Swiss chalet style, which is fairly unique for churches in Norway.

    The church is from 1901 and seats about 440 people. The site has been used for churches for hundreds of years, and the first church on this site was possibly a stave church, but little is known about it. Another church was established here in the 17th century, and it survived until 1767, when it was torn down and replaced. In 1901, the church was replaced with a larger church.

    Steinviksholmen Castle

    Historic Site

    How to get here:

    Steinviksholmen is clearly marked on Google Maps. It’s just off the E6 and marked with brown tourist signs the entire way. It’s about 10-15 minutes off the E6.

    The road is very narrow, and you’ll have to watch out for traffic coming the other way.

    —–

    Steinvikholmen Castle is a 16th century castle constructed by Norway’s last Roman Catholic Bishop, Olav Engelbrektsson. After meeting with the Pope, Olav’s resistance to the Danish rule and the Reformation escalated. Steinvikholm was built as the Catholic churches military stronghold. The castle was finished in 1532, but sadly for Olav the Reformation succeeded in 1537 and Olav was forced to flee to Lier. It was the last Catholic stronghold in Norway. When Olav fled, he left Saint Olav’s shrine and other treasures, and they were returned to Nidaros Cathedral in 1568.

    After the Reformation, the site was used as a quarry and some of its masonry was sold off. Since the late 19th century, the site has been owned and operated by the Past Memory Association (Fortidsminneforeningen). It is used as concert hall for a midnight opera, Olav Engelbrektsson, which details the life and struggles of the archbishop. The opera takes place annually.

    Steinvikholm Castle is Norway’s largest structure from the Middle Ages.

    In summer, it is open as a museum. There are also photographs and information boards (Norwegian and English) around the site. You can walk around the fortress for free, but the interior is what costs money. When we visited, we saw lots of kids swimming in the water around the fortress.

    You park on the mainland and pay a small fee (they use Vipps to accept parking payment), and then walk across the bridge (photographed) to the castle. The entrance is on the other side from my photos.

    Even if you aren’t interested in the castle, the surrounding scenery is gorgeous.

    Levanger Municipality

    Levanger is a very old region, and it’s possibly a settlement from the Iron Age. Levanger is known from the Viking Age, as it is mentioned in the old sagas when it was ruled by a chieftain. Evidence of the Viking Age is found around the municipality in the form of burial mounds. The one by Alstadhaug Church, called Alvshaugen, is from 300-600 CE.

    Historically, Levanger was an important marketplace between Norway and Sweden. The town was ‘founded’ by King Charles XIV of Sweden on 18 May 1836, but there was an already well-established village. The market had been taking place there since the 13th century.

    Throughout the 19th century, the famous market’s economic importance faced, and it became more of a tradition than a viable market. When Norway was occupied during World War II, the German forces put a stop to the market. It was not until 1989 that the market was resumed, and it still takes place today. Still, it’s not important as it was pre-19th century.

    Today Levanger is also a working municipality. The world’s largest paper producing company, Norske Skog, had its first ever factory in Skogn. The factory is still there today and provides 530 jobs at the plant, plus 1900 jobs in transportation and forestry. Additionally, Levanger is an excellent area for agrictulture. The town has a hospital and a branch of Nord University.

    If you are looking for a place to visit, I recommend going to Alstahaug medieval church to see both the church and the Alvshaugen burial mound. If you want to go for a nice walk, consider visiting the Munkeby Abbey ruins and the Viking Age gravemounds at Gjeite. As you can see, there’s a lot to do here!

    We visit the Falstad concentration camp on this drive, but on the map I’ve included the above attractions.

    Vuddu Valley

    Restaurant

    Vuddu Valley is a unique place to stop for a meal. It’s completely inspired by the 1960s U.S. diners. The Norwegian owners bought a blue pickup truck in North Carolina, and it has served as inspiration for their diner. Additionally, they have a small museum with items mostly from the 1950s and 1960s.

    Click here to visit their website. 

    Frostatinget

    Historic Site

    This was an early Norwegian court that made up one of the four major “things” in Norway. It is arguably Norway’s oldest court, predating the Viking period. This is where chieftains would meet to discuss laws and events. The site has a huge stone marker on it.

    Falstad Centre

    Historic Site

    In the video, I go to Falstad concentration camp. It’s one of the most complete camps left in Norway, and today it is a memorial and information centre.

    I’ve written a separate article about Falstad Centre, which you can view via the button below.

    Levanger

    Town

    Shortly after the Falstad Centre, we pass turn-offs to Levanger. If you want to visit the main street, just follow signs towards Levanger. I mentioned the history of Levanger town centre in the section about Levanger municipality.

    Munkeby Abbey Ruins

    Historic Site

    Just after Levanger town is the turn-off to the ruins of Munkeby Abbey. It’s just a short drive from the E6, and is a nice area to go to stretch your legs.

    The Munkeby Abbey was founded some time between 1150 and 1180 and it was the most northly Cistercian foundation in the world. It was likely built by English monks. The monastery was eventually closed down, though the church was used until 1587.

    Verdal Municipality

    People have lived at Verdal since the Stone Age, and there are farms in the region that are mentioned as far back as the 12th century. The municipality is best known for the site Stiklestad, where we are heading to next.

    A unique word to learn for this area is råning. It refers to all the young people here who are interested in cars. They spend a lot of their time improving or styling their cars and then driving them on a particular route to show them off.

    The economy here is supported by the offshore industry as well as agriculture. Verdal is also known as one of the greatest lottery towns of Norway, with several lottery grand prizes going to people living in Verdal.

    Stikelstad

    Historic Site

    Stiklestad is one of the most important religious sites in the country. It is where, in 1030, St. Olav fell in battle during the Battle of Stiklestad. His sainthood arose from this death.

    Today Stiklestad feels like a bit of a tourist trap – they’ve built up all these new centres, exhibitions and hotels in the last 20 years – but there’s still historical interest in visiting here.

    You can read my separate guide to Stiklestad below.

    Inderøy Municipality

    Inderøy is an agricultural municipality located in North Trøndelag. The municipality has been inhabited since the Middle Ages, and the village of Sakshaug used to be an important political centre. It is home to one of the oldest churches in the area, Old Sakshaug Church, from 1184.

    The coat-of-arms shows the European plaice. The fish was once plentiful int he waters and was one of the main sources of income in the area until around 1940. Fishing is still important to the region. Farming is also very important to the area, and most of the municipality is cultivated. Grass and grain are the most common crops, but strawberries are also common. Most farmers have their own forest, too.

    The population density is 19.4 inhabitants per sq km (50/sq mi). The population has increased by 15.9% over the last 10 years.

    One of the most prominent 20th century Norwegian sculptors, Nils Aas, is from this area.

    Old Sakshaug Church

    Church

    The church is about 12 minutes off the E6, and it’s in the middle of Sakshaug village. Old Sakshaug church was built between 1150 and 1180, and it is one of the oldest churches in Trøndelag county. The choir is the oldest part of the building. The choir was ‘modernised’ with Gothic details in the 1200s.

    Steinkjer Municipality

    Steinkjer is one of the larger municipalities in the region, though its population density is very low, with just 12.6 inhabitants per sq km (33 sq mi). The population has increased by 2.4% over the last 10 years. The coat-of-arms shows a verranjekt, a type of boat that is very common in the area. It’s a new coat-of-arms from 2020.

    The area around Steinkjer is historic – it has been populated since the Stone Age. Rock carvings can be seen in the area, and the oldest are 6,000 years old. During the Viking Age, Steinkjer was an important base and Maere was one of the best known religious places with sacrifices and gatherings before Christianity came to the country.

    The town of Steinkjer was sadly bombed during World War II. The attack destroyed a large part of Steinkjer, and many priceless historic buildings, including the church, were lost. The town was quickly rebuilt after the war with the help of aid from the United States. Much of the architecture found in Steinkjer is from the 1950s and 1960s and is inspired by functionalism. One of the few buildings to survive the bombing is the train station, which is designed in art nouveau.

    Steinkjer is one of the northernmost areas with rich agriculture, allowing large production of grain. You’ll notice as you drive through just how important grain production is to the area. Tall grain silos can be seen all over the landscape.

    The oldest church in the area is Maere Church. It’s just a few minutes off the E6, so we visit it.

    Mære Church

    Historic Site

    In the early Viking Age, according to the Sagas, Mære was one of the most important religious ceremonial places, with sacrifices to the Norse gods.

    The stone church was built in a long church style during the 12th century by an unknown architect. It’s noted for its medieval roof featuring the carvings of heads projecting form the top of its walls. Coins dating from the reign of King Sverre (1183-1202) have been found during excavations.

    Under the church are traces of the ‘hof’ (pagan worshipping site) that used to be on the side. It was uncovered during the 1950s and is the only case in Norway of a pre-Christian building being found to have existed on the site of a church. The nature of that structure was not clear.

    The church is just a few minutes off the E6. There is a huge parking lot outside the agricultural school, but you can also park by the church.

    Namsos

    You have arrived at our final stop, Namsos. From here, you can access Norway’s famous Coastal Road. 

    Continue the drive

    Norway's Coastal Road Part 3: Brønnøysund to Sandnessjøen

    See the first part of Norway’s Coastal Road.

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Drive it Yourself: Aurlandsfjellet Tourist Road

    Drive it Yourself: Aurlandsfjellet Tourist Road

    The Aurlandsfjellet Tourist Road is a short but incredibly diverse mountain road between the villages of Lærdal and Aurland near Flåm in Western Norway.

    The road is 45km in total length, and it has earned the nickname ‘Snow Road’ because snow typically remains on the mountains all year round. 

    With most of the tourist roads in Norway, you really can do them in either direction. For Aurlandsfjellet, however, I strongly recommend you start at Lærdal and head to Aurland. The reveal of the mountains and fjords is much more dramatic. 

    Aurlandsfjellet was completed in 1967, and it used to be the main road between the two towns. Since 2000, however, the main highway E16 has gone through the new Lærdal Tunnel instead. The Lærdal Tunnel is 24.5km long, making it one of the longest tunnels in the world. You can take the tunnel, I mean it is quicker, but the Aurlandsfjellet Tourist Road is much more fun!

    Here’s my guide on where to stop for photos and what to do on the Aurlandsfjellet Tourist Road. 

    In this article...

    Download this Guide

    All of our guides can be downloaded via my online store. 

    I offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on my online store. 

    Online Guide

    Downloadable Guide

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    Aurlandsfjellet Tourist Road

    Lærdal

    This drive begins in Lærdal, a historic trading town. Originally, the main market town used to be across the fjord in Kaupanger (see my article on Kaupanger Stave Church). However, some time in the 15th or 16th century, it moved acoss to Lærdal.

    Lærdal is on the historic postal route between Bergen and Oslo. When coming from Oslo, Lærdal was the place where the postal workers would leave their horses and embark on boats. They would dock at Gudvangen, take horses to Bolstadoyri, and then take boats to Bergen.

    In Lærdal you have to stop at the historic district. These are a collection of preserved wooden houses from the 17th to 19th centuries. The main street is Øyragata, and you can see different architectural styles from traditional building customs to Swiss and Art Nouveau, and then Classicism and Functionalism. There’s a telecommunications and postal museum in the town today.

    Another attraction is the Norwegian Wild Salmon Centre, which was opened by King Harald in 1996. It has a salmon ladder, salmon observatory, rapids with live fish, exhibitions, cafes and restaurant. 

    Vedhaugane

    Scenic Stop

    This is a scenic overlook of the mountains. From here, you can see the Jotunheimen massif – on a clear day! A walkway and an ‘infinity’ bench curve away from the road.

    Flotane

    Scenic Stop

    This is where you feel like you are on top of the world! There’s a rest area with benches and restrooms – they are only open in the summer.

    Stegastein Viewpoint

    Scenic Stop

    This is where you feel like you are on top of the world! There’s a rest area with benches and restrooms – they are only open in the summer.

    Aurland

    We’ve made it to Aurland! That was easy. There’s a lot to see and do in Aurland, so don’t simply pass through it on your way to Flåm. In fact, Aurland is the more peaceful version of Flåm. 

    The Previous Drive

    Sognefjellet Tourist Road

    Drive through the dramatic Sognefjellet Tourist Road to reach the Sognefjord. 

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Drive it Yourself: Sognefjellet Tourist Road

    Drive it Yourself: Sognefjellet Tourist Road

    Alright, this is the big one. The Sognefjellet Tourist Road is one of the highest roads in Norway and also the most notorious for bad weather. Winding its way from Lom through the Jotunheimen National Park and then down to the Lustrafjord, this road is nicknamed the ‘road over the roof of Norway’.

    This road has been a main traffic road since the Middle Ages, linking the coast and inland areas. Trading led to the transport of salt and fish eastwards while butter, pitch and leather were transported west.

    The decision to build a modern gravel road came in 1936 when the Minister of Social Affairs put together an initiative to employ unemployed young people. The road opened in 1938 and was the highest road at the time. It rises to a height of 1434m.

    This is where you experience true Norwegian nature. In winter the weather is so severe that the road has to close. In early spring, soon after the road opens, there are almost 10m high banks of snow on the side of the road.

    The Sognefjellet Tourist Road is notorious for bad weather, and boy did we experience that. I think I was mildly traumatised by the time I got to the bottom of the road! I would love to go back and film this when the weather is good. In the meantime, the footage and my photos aren’t great, but at least it paints a true picture of the power of nature on Sognefjellet.

    In this article...

    Download this Guide

    All of our guides can be downloaded via my online store. 

    I offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on my online store. 

    Online Guide

    Downloadable Guide

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    The drive: Sognefjellet Tourist Road

    Lom

    Lom has it all. Museums, shops, scenic views, a stave church and an award-winning bakery. It’s also surrounded by tourist roads. We begin our drive here after filling up with coffee and petrol.

     

    Flåklypa

    Scenic Site

    Flåklypa is the first place we’ll pass. The name comes from a Norwegian kids film called Flåklypa Grand Prix, where the place is described as a small mountain village. Historically, though, this is a place where farmers risked getting stuck when they pulled their hay on the ice – they got stuck in Flåklypa, which means ‘pinch’.

    Galdhøpiggvegen

    Mountain

    If the weather is incredible, or you can at least see the mountain peaks, take a 15km detour up Galdhøpiggvegen.

    Galdhøpiggvegen offers an ascent of 1300m and, on a clear day, you get a panoramic view of Northern Europe’s highest mountains at the end of the road. The road is open mid-May to the end of October but may close throughout the season if there’s bad weather. It’s a toll road, so after 5km you have to pay – card only.

    There are tourist cabins at the top if you want to spend the night there and do some outdoor activities.

    Lisanden

    Rest Area

    Liasanden is a beautiful rest area in a pine forest. You’ll find maps, information boards, and picnic benches.

    For more info, click here. 

    Jotunheimen Mountain Hotel

    Hotel

    This is a viewpoint and great place to stay.

    Sognefjellshytta

    Hotel

    This lodge is where the tourist road reaches its highest point: 1400m. Understandably, this accommodation is also a popular training centre for ski teams from all over the world. There is a common room here where you can go and warm up or use the restrooms, or you can opt to spend the night here.

    Click here to visit their website.

    Oscarshaug Viewpoint

    Viewpoint

    This is considered the best viewpoint on the scenic drive. Keep an eye out for it: it’s off one of the hairpin turns.

    Turtagrø Hotel

    Hotel

    This is a hotel that has been a central meeting place for mountaineers since the late 19th century. The first hotel was built here in 1888 by mountain guide Ola Berge. Another hotel was built 100m away in the same year. The two hotels merged in 1911 after Berge bought the other hotel. After Berges death in 1928, his daugther Kari took over the hotel. After the Sognefjellet tourist road was finished in 1938 and the climbing assocation build their own cabin, the purpose of the hotel changed.

    On 28 April 1940, during the closing days of the Norwegian Campaign in Southern Norway, German prisoners of war and their guards arrived at Turtagrø. They spent the night here on their way to Vadheim in Sogn.

    From 1953 Johannes Drægni ran the hotel. He introduced the first climbing school in Norway at the property. Ole Berge Drægni took over the hotel in 1997, but sadly he died in the tsunami in Thailand in 2004. His four-year-old daughter Sofie inherited the majority of the stocks. His daughter still owns 80% of shares in the company, but Ingunn Weka is the manager of the hotel.

    The old main building and staff accommodation burned down in 2001, destroyed old cultural monuments. A new hotel was rebuilt by 2002.

    The area is one of Norway’s most alpine areas with 24 peaks over 2,000m above sea level. Throughout the season you can take tours with mountain guides.

    Click here to visit their website

    Fortun Overlook

    Viewpoint

    Your last chance to get some photos high up in the mountains comes a short drive after the hotel. Here you can see the village Fortun.

    Fortun

    Village

    Fortun is a small village located on the innermost part of the Lustrafjord, which we’ll now be following.

    The village is best known for its church. The present church is from 1879, but it replaced an earlier stave church.

    The earliest existing records date back to 1330, but it’s believed there was a church here built in the mid-12th century. It was originally a stave church. As with many churches, it was too small and there were plans to tear it down. However, there was some controversy about this. So, consul Fredrik Georg Gade bought the stave church and moved it to Fantoft in Bergen. It became known as Fantoft Stave Church and operated as a museum. Sadly, in 1992 it was destroyed by an arson fire. A replica has been built, but virtually all the old parts have been lost.

    The picture is of the village between 1860 and 1880, and shows the stave church just before it was moved.

    Wittgenstein

    Historic Site

    Ludwig Wittgenstein (1889-1951) was an Austrian-British philosopher who worked in logic, mathematics, the mind, and language. What does this have to do with Fortun?

    Well, Ludwig visited Norway and fell in love with the region. He eventually made the decision to move here. He lived in various small villages before building a small wooden house to sit on a rock to overlook the Eidsvatnet lake. The place was nicknamed “Østerrike” (Austria) by the locals. The house was dismantled in 1958 but rebuilt by the locals in 2014. Now it’s a memorial, and a rest area along the road!

    You can see a photo of the house here. 

    Skjolden

    Village

    Skjolden is a small village of 250-300 people.

    At Skjolden, you’ll reach the turn-off for Urnes Stave Church. This is where you come some options.

    Where to go from here

    The Sognefjellet Tourist Road continues to Gaupne along the Lustrafjord. However, if you take this road, you’ll miss out on one of the biggest attractions: Urnes Stave Church. I know, there are a lot of stave churches in Norway, so what makes this one so special? Well, it’s the oldest stave church! It’s also the oldest one on the UNESCO World Heritage List. The church is only open in the summer months, as is the ferry to/from it, so I highly recommend going provided it is open.

    Still, we shouldn’t ignore the rest of the Sognefjellet Tourist Road. It’s a beautiful drive and there are things to see along the way. If it’s possible, I recommend doing option one.

    Option One: Drive to Urnes Stave Church, take the ferry to Solvorn, go back along the Fv55 (recommended)

    Take the 30-40 min drive to Urnes Stave Church, then take the ferry across to Solvorn. From Solvorn, drive back along the Sognefellet Tourist Road to Dale Church – the last major point of interest. Then you can come back to Solvorn.

    Option Two: Do the Sognefjellet Tourist Road to Solvorn, take the ferry to/from Urnes Stave Church

    This is a fine option too. The only reason I don’t recommend it is that the ferry is pricey, infrequent, and the drive to Urnes is quite scenic and recommended.

    Notes:

    • The road to Urnes Stave Church is very beautiful but it’s extremely narrow and a little daunting. It’s surprisingly long, too. This is why I don’t recommend doing it both ways
    • The ferry between Ornes (the village where the church is) is a little pricey, takes few vehicles, and can be crowded. Also, it operates few times during the day. It’s great one way.
    • You can take the ferry without a car and then walk up to Urnes Stave Church, but it’s up a semi-steep hill

    Urnes Stave Church

    Urnes Stave Church is the only UNESCO World Heritage-listed stave church in the world. It is open in the summer months as a museum, too!

    The Next Drive

    Aurlandsfjellet Tourist Road

    On the next day we finished our ultimate Norwegian road-trip by heading across the Sognefjord to Aurland. 

    The Previous Drive

    Geiranger to Lom

    This short but stunning drive connects the Sognefjellet Tourist Road with the Geiranger UNESCO region. 

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Geiranger – Lom Scenic Drive

    Geiranger – Lom Scenic Drive

    The Geiranger-Lom road is one of the most visited ways to get to Geiranger. It follows the Highway 15 from Otta, which is on the E6 between Trondheim and Oslo. It may seem like just a standard highway to get from A-B, but there’s a lot to see and do!

    With incredible photo-stops, scenic overlooks and detours, be sure to spend some time between Geiranger and Lom.

    I have done this drive many times with tour groups. In September 2020 I got to do the drive with the husband as part of our roadtrip around southern Norway.

    In this article...

    Download this Guide

    All of our guides can be downloaded via our online store. 

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

    Online Guide

    Downloadable Guide

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    The drive: Geiranger to Lom

    Geiranger

    This drive begins in beautiful Geiranger. I’ve got a lot to say about this place, so I’ve put it in a separate article which you’ll see below.

    Knuten

    Historic Site

    Knuten (the Knot) is a section of the old road. It’s still the same as it was when it opened in 1882. It is a loop road used to get up/down the steep mountain. The road curves 270 degrees, and was designed to reduce the road graient for passing horses and people.

    It’s important to note that it’s very hard to see Knuten if you’re going down into Geiranger. It’s best viewed if going up from Geiranger.

    Cars are not allowed to go up, but people and bikes can.

    Blåfjellbrakka

    Historic Site

    Blåfjellbrakka is a small cabin from 1904. It was built for those who worked to maintain Geirangervegen. It is the only barracks in the Norwegian Public Roads Administration. The building was restored in 1989 and today it’s a holiday home for employees in the Norwegian Public Roads Administration.

    They have a small information board on a wooden shed. You can pull over and have a read.

    Dalsnibba

    Viewpoint

    We are now at the famous Dalsnibba Viewpoint. It’s a lengthy detour, but if you can see the mountain peaks, it’s well worth doing.

    At an altitude of 1,746m, you can see Geiranger, the Geirangerfjord, and the road we’ve taken to get here. The view is unlike anything else.

    The road is only 5km (3 mi) off the main road, but it takes a long time as the road is narrow, has many hairpin bends, and often has a lot of traffic.

    The road has a toll as it is a private road. You can see updated prices via the link in the description. At the top you’ll find a café, souvenir shop, and incredible views. It is often very, very cold and very windy. Bring extra layers! Snow is common all year round.

    I wrote a separate article as one of the very first articles for this blog! You can see it here. 

    Innlandet County

    You cross over into Innlandet county. 

    Skjåk Municipality

    Skjåk is a municipality in Innlandet. It’s part of the traditional region of Gudbrandsdalen. The name comes from an old farm.

    After the last Ice Age, it’s believed reindeer followed the ice as it retreated north to Scandinavia. Skjåk is in the middle of the central migration route for the Scandinavian reindeer. There are ancient large hunting facilities and traces of settlements that show hunting and trapping was important here from the Ice Age until today. There are farm names that date back to the Iron Age. There is a hunting facility for moose from 220-570AD.

    The region is mentioned in the Viking Age and has a rich cultural heritage. St. Olav supposedly travelled through the valley when he was Christianising the villages. He christianised Lom, but Skjåk refused. As a result, the village was burned. St. Olav said: “It’s a pity to burn such a beautiful village”.

    There was a high population growth during the Middle Ages, and there were around 120 farms here just before the Black Death in 1349. After the plague, the population was more than halved.

    In the second half of the 17th century, the population recovered to the pre-plague numbers. Most of the farms in Skjåk were owned by the farmers. From 1730, the forest began to be exploited for the timber industry.

    Geography

    An ancient route of travel between east and west went up from Skjåk through the Raudal valley and then onwards to Stryn. This area is a historically significant traffic artery between Stryn and Nordfjrod, Geiranger, Sunnmøre, Ottadal, Lom and Vågå.

    Skjåk is the westernmost part of the Gudbrandsdalen region. The community is at the meeting point between east and west. The valley is rain shadowed and therefore one of the most arid places in Europe with an annual precipitation of 250mm (10 inc) per year. It has a subarctic climate.

    Industry

    Due to the lack of rain, Agriculture has been enabled by elaborate irrigation systems for hundreds of years. The area is green and productive rather than being desert like. There are long traditions of pig breeding in the municipality. 19% of the population is involved in agriculture and timber.

    The main village in Skjåk is Bismo, which has the Otta River flowing through it.

    Fun fact: 78% of the municipality is part of a national park.

    Gamle Strynefjellsvegen

    Tourist Road/Detour

    Gamle Strynefjellsvegen is one of Norway’s 18 national tourist roads. It’s the old road that came up here from Stryn.

    Unfortunately I have not done this road, so I can’t say too much about it. We were originally going to do it as a detour, but the weather was too bad. It takes about 45 minutes one way, so if you have the time I highly recommend it. To get back to this point quickly, you can take Highway 15 back.

    Click here to visit the website for the Gamle Strynefjellsvegen route.

    Lom Municipality

    You enter Lom municipality. 

    Lom

    Lom is a beautiful town and well worth a visit when in Norway. It is located between some of Norway’s most famous national parks and is home to Lom Stave Church, one of the most impressive stave churches left. 

    Continue the drive

    Sognefjellet Tourist Road

    From Lom you can get to the Sognefjellet Tourist Road, one of the 18 National Tourist Roads in Norway. 

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    Trollstigen Tourist Road

    Drive from Åndalsnes to Geiranger on one of the most famous tourist drives in Norway. 

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Drive it Yourself: Åndalsnes to Geiranger via the Trollstigen Tourist Road

    Drive it Yourself: Åndalsnes to Geiranger via the Trollstigen Tourist Road

    Trollstigen is arguably the most famous of the 18 national tourist roads in Norway. Beginning just outside Åndalsnes in north-western Norway, the road twists and turns up the mountains, across the fjord, and then down to UNESCO World-Heritage-listed Geiranger. The views are incredible, the road is a little nerve-wrecking, but it’s well worth doing.

    You’ve probably seen something like the image above. Trollstigen has been featured countless times on television programs – especially those about cars – and every guidebook will include a picture of it. The road is slightly terrifying, difficult, and not for the inexperienced. However, get to the top and you will be rewarded!

    I got to do the Trollstigen National Tourist Road last September. The weather was miserable and we didn’t see anything, but that didn’t change my opinion of the road. I’m glad I didn’t do it in the middle of summer – the traffic looks like a nightmare. Here’s an overview of everything you can see and do on the road between Åndalsnes and Geiranger. 

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    IMPORTANT: TROLLSTIGEN CLOSED

    Please note that Trollstigen Tourist Road is closed for 2024 due to concerns over rockslides and subsequent safety issues. It is possible to visit the visitor centre and viewpoint at the top, but you must come from the southern (Valldal) side. It is not possible to drive on the Trollstigen switchback road. 

    The Drive: Åndalsnes to Geiranger

    Åndalsnes

    This drive begins in Åndalsnes, which is a popular place to stay for those who love outdoor activities. You can learn more about Åndalsnes via the button below. 

    Troll Wall (Trollveggen)

    Mountain Range

    If you continue past the turn for Trollstigen, you’ll be driving along Trollveggen.

    Trollveggen is the tallest vertical rock face in Europe, about 1100m (3600ft) from its base to the summit ridge of the highest point. The wall is popular with skiers and mountain climbers.

    The drive along the E134 provides excellent views of Trollveggen, though the best views are achieved by hiking. 

    If you want to see the whole of Trollveggen, drive to Dombås and back again. One way is 104km (90 minutes), so it is a day trip. Otherwise, you might be coming from Oslo and do the drive from Dombås into Åndalsnes anyway.

     

    Rauma River

    River

    The Rauma river is a 68km (42 mi) long river that runs through Romsdalen, the valley you drive through for Trollveggen. The river used to be famous for salmon fishing, but since an infection, only 5-10% of the stock survives.

    The Rauma River is regarded as one of the most beautiful in Norway. It has a natural green tint from melting ice. The mountains on either side are 1500m – 1800m (4900ft to 5900ft) high.

    Isterdalen

    Valley

    We are in the valley called Isterdalen. It is a distinct U-shaped valley with a steep end point: this is where Trollstigen is. The valley is cultivated for agricultural purposes.

    When driving through the valley, keep an eye out for the famous mountains “Queen”, “King” and “Bishop” on the west side of the valley.

    Trollstigen Resort

    Accommodation

    This quirky cabin rental and camping ground has some – unique? – troll statues you can stop to take photos of. They also have a shop with food and drinks, plus some restrooms.

    Besides the trolls, it’s worth stopping here to look at the maps of the surrounding area. 

    Trollstigen

    Historic Overview

    The road is very old. The market near Åndalsnes began in 1533, and the road was used as the main crossing over the mountain. A text in 1766 says that the mountain road was inspected annually and continuously.

    Around the turn of the 20th century, the road was widened to allow for riding: it was around 1.5m wide. Discussion began for modernising the road and allowing access for wider vehicles. The Armed Forces was interested in the construction of the road for the sake of mobilisation and exercises in connection with a nearby military camp. Additionally, the opening of the Rauma Line provided subsidies for the construction of the road. 

    In 1912, county engineer Hovednark said that the road would become “one of our most important tourist roads.” I’d say he is right!

    In 1916, upgrading of the road began. Throughout the building process, the road was criticised for being an expensive project, but the council began to work on it. The construction of the hairpin turns began in 1930. The turns were designed so they would not be too sharp. Work was done by hand with wheelbarrows, hammers and drills. Two men could do 3m of road a day. Eventually construction workers laid rails on the road so stones and gravel could be transported away.

    Trollstigen officially opened on 31 July 1936 by King Håkon VII. It is practically on the same route as the older path; though most of the older path is the Kløvstien walk. 

    Renovation Work

    Due to the location and weather, Trollstigen is continuously monitored. Due to rockfalls, a section at the bottom of Trollstigen was rebuilt in 2005. The road from Trollstigen to Geiranger was upgraded between 2005-2008 due to the large number of tourists crossing.

    Some of the turns have been widened to allow for buses to get up/down. 

    The Turns

    Each turn is named after the work team member who was responsible for that turn. From the bottom:
    – Otmar Østigård
    – Johan Voll (turns 2-4)
    – Kjelstad
    – Anton Fiva
    – Lars Daniel Tafjord
    – Martin Uri (8 and 10)
    – Arthur Langdal
    – Volda (now called Bispesvingen)

    The turns are named so if you get stuck you can tell the emergency authorities where exactly you are.

    Stats

    • 11 hairpin bends. Several have been widened, while others are their original width
    • There is a 1:12, or 10% gradient
    • The highest point is Alnesreset, where the info centre is, and it’s 850m high
    • The road is 4-6m wide – more at meeting places. When the road first opened, it was 3-4m wide

    Trollstigen Visitor Centre

    Centre

    At the top of Trollstigen is this incredible looking visitor centre. The complex is fairly new: it was built in 2012. Perhaps unsurprisingly, it was designed by an architecture firm.

    Here you’ll find restrooms, food, drinks, and souvenirs. There are walking paths all around the centre, and two viewpoints where you can capture that famous view of Trollstigen.

    Since I went on a horribly day, I didn’t get a photo of the road. It’s okay, I can always go back!

    Fjord Municipality

    Shortly after leaving the visitor centre, we cross into Fjord Municipality (Kommune).

    Fjord is a small municipality in the traditional district of Sunnmøre.

    The name ‘Fjord’ is kind of strange. It is not an old or historic name: it was chosen in 2020 for reasons of search enging optimisation. If you google ‘Fjord’, they wanted their muncipality to be the first in the list and bring tourists to the region. They have been criticised by the Language Council of Norway because fjord is a very common place name in the country. Also, they were unhappy that the name was chosen for SEO; they said that names should be based on names with a historic tradition in the area, and that ‘invented names’ with no tradition such as Fjord are unfortunate.

    I tried it and the municipality was not at the top of my list on Google!

    Gudbrandsjuvet

    Scenic area

    After a short drive, you’ll pass brown tourist signs leading you to Gudbrandsjuvet. This is a short detour with some incredible views. 

    Gudbrandsjuvet is a 5m narrow and 25m high ravine. There is a stone bridge across the river: it’s from 1919 and replaced an even older bridge from 1785.

    According to a story from the 1500s, the ravine was named after a man called Gudbrand. He ran off with his new bride and saved himself from his angry pursuers by jumping over the ravine at its narrowest point. Gudbrand was declared an outlaw for his deeds, and lived the rest of his life in a stone hut in one of the side valleys above Gudbrandsjuvet. The valley is still called Gudbrandsdalen (not to be confused with the Gudbrandsdalen north of Oslo) to this day. The story doesn’t mention whether his bride followed him over the ravine.

    There’s a gorgeous visitor centre and platform here. Have a look at the pictures on the VisitÅlesund website (click here). 

    Fun fact
    The British film Ex Machina was partly filmed at the Juvet Landscape Hotel. The hotel is just behind the viewing platform. If you want to stay there, you have to stay for a minimum of 2 nights and pay 4500 NOK per night. 

    Valldal

    Valley

    Valldal is a valley and high tourist area. We’ve been passing caravan parks and cabins for the last 15 or so minutes, so that’s definitely their main industry.

    The valley runs for 30km from Storfjorden to Trollstigen. The valley is relatively flat with a gentle slope, providing great opportunities for agriculture. The valley rises from sea level (by the fjord) to 850m above sea level at Trollstigen.

    St. Olav & Valldal

    Even though the valley is assoicated with tourism today, it is very old. Valldal is mentioned in the Old Norse Sagas. In the Saga of St. Olav, it’s written that Olav fought with a sea serpent in the Storfjord (the fjord Valldal sits on). Olav wins the battle by throwing it in the rock wall of Syltefjellet. To this day, you can see an outline of the serpent on the side of the mountain Syltefjellet.

    Just above the centre of town is Olavsstøtta. This is a monument commemorating the place where Olav sat and watched his boats burn so the enemy could not use them. After that, he set out across Valldalen – the valley we’ve been driving through. As Olav made his way through the valley, he got help from the locals who lived here. As a way to say thanks, he promised that the grain here would never freeze. According to the locals, it has never frozen!

    There’s another place named after him – Olavskilda – which is a spring with water said to have a healing effect. Before the modern times, it was used to give to animals that were unhealthy.

    Tourism

    Valldal is located in the centre of two important tourist destinations in Norway: the Geirangerfjord and Trollstigen. Vallden is located on the tourist route between the two, and understandably it gets a lot of traffic.

    Valldal is surrounded by mountains that are 1500-1800m above sea level. As you can imagine, the surrounding nature attracts a lot of tourism. There are plenty of marked hiking trails in the area, and the Norwegian Tourist Association’s cabins can be found in the region.

    Valldøla, which flows through the river, is known for its salmon and trout fishing. Fishing licences can be bought at the tourist centre in Sylte. Hunting is also common here. Valldal has a large deer herd that every autumn provides food for landowners. Grouse hunting is also possible at the top of the valley.

    Agriculture

    This is the most important industry in Valldal. The valley is known for strawberries. Before the municipality was changed to ‘Fjord’ it was called Norddal and the coat-of-arms was three berries. Besides strawberries, there are also apples, pears, plums, apricots, cherries and walnuts growing in the valley.

    Sylte

    Sylte is the name of the settlement by the fjord, but it’s often also called Valldal town centre. Around 1000 people live here. Historically, Sylte was a common area used by the farmers of Valldal where they all had a boathouse and stalls where they could store horses while attending church as well as private belongings. The area has now been developed and has a petrol station, car repair shop, and grocery store.

    Sylte Church is from 1863. It’s believed there has been a church here for a long time. The site is mentioend in documents as far back as 1589. Some guesses believe that the first church was built in 1100 after church building became common.

    Linge to Eidsdal

    Ferry

    When we get to Linge, we take the ferry over to Eidsdal.

    It’s worth noting that the ferry pier in Linge is one of the attractions along the national tourist route. I don’t know if you’ll spend any time there: we just went straight to the ferry. Click here for info about the attraction. 

    To take the ferry, join the queue in the parking lot. The ferry comes every 30-45 minutes, so you don’t have to wait long. When you are signalled, drive onto the ferry and make sure you park as close as possible to the car in front of you. You then have to turn off your car and leave it.

    How to buy a ticket? Easy. They scan the e-toll tag inside your car. All rentals will have one. After you drop off the car, the rental company sends you a bill for all the tolls/ferries you took.

    When you see the ferry getting closer to the other side, go back to your car. Don’t turn it on until you’re docked. Leave the ferry when instructed. Easy!

    Most ferries serve hot and cold food and drinks and have restrooms.

    You can view the website for the ferry here. 

    Eidsdal

    Village

    Eidsdal is a tiny town. Around 400 people live here, and the major industry is agriculture. Tourism is fastly becoming a major industry, with many campsites, cabins, and guesthouses being built in recent years.

    If you find accommodation in Geiranger is sold out – which is common – or it’s too expensive, Eidsdal is a great affordable alternative. It’s a short drive from Geiranger but accommodation can be half the price for the same standards. 

    Herdalssetra

    Farm

    Herdalssetra is a preserved mountain summer farm and one of the largest alpine farm centres for goat farming. The farm has been in continuous operaton for 300 years. It has several hundred goats, plus some cows, sheep and fjord horses. There are over 30 historic buildings gathered in a cluster. During the summer, the farm is open to the public. You can visit these historic buildings and watch as brown and white goat cheese is produced using the traditional method. The farm also has courses you can take and a café where you can try what’s made here.

    If you see the Snøfrisk brand in supermarkets – that is what is produced here!

    The drive up the toll road is 10km and steep and narrow, so be careful! Honestly, this place is spectacular and I really recommend it.

    The farm is free to access and is open in the summer when the snow has melted. Check their website for info. The drive is about 30 minutes from Eidsdal.

    To get there, you can use GPS (it’s ‘Herdalssetra’ on Google Maps) or drive along the fjord to Norddal and then take the only road that goes up the valley. 

    Stranda Municipality

    The next municipality we drive through is Stranda. It’s a typical fjord municipality with one large town and three small villages: most of the municipality itself is either fjord or mountain.

    Due to the natural environment, Stranda Municipality is one of the most visited in the Nordic countries. Tourism has long traditions here, with the first cruise ship coming into Geiranger in 1869. Today, Geiranger is the second-largest cruise ship port in Norway after Bergen.

    Besides tourism, agriculture is an important industry with around 160 farms producing milk and meat products. Many factories have long traditions for producing meat products, especially salted and cured meat. One of the most famous companies here is Orkla, which produces frozen pizzas (among other things). Since 1979, over 500 million frozen pizzas have been produced at the factory.

    Norwegians are obsessed with frozen pizzas. The number one hit song in 2005 was all about the love of frozen pizza. Click here to hear it. 

    Ørnesvingen

    Scenic Road

    Ørnesvingen is a series of 11 hairpin bends that will take you down to sea level from 620m high. At the top of the bends is the Ørnesvingen viewpoint platform, where you get a spectacular view of the Geirangerfjord, the Seven Sisters, and Geiranger village.

    The road officially opened on 15 September 1955, giving Geiranger a year-round road connection. Yes, this is the only road open in and out of Geiranger all year round. The road got the name “Ørnesvingen” because the area traditionally had lots of eagles (Ørnes = Eagle).

    The climb is steep – 10% – and it can be difficult in summer but especially winter. Traffic can make it difficult as well, so just take your time.

    The viewing point is worth stopping at but it creates its own set of issues. The parking lot is small and during summer it’ll be crowded with buses. Then, you have to cross the road to get to the viewpoint. There are no lights or pedestrian crossings; you just have to make a run for it. If you are spending the night in Geiranger, I recommend coming back later in the day if it’s too crowded. The area also creates traffic jams.

    Geiranger

    You have now made it to Geiranger!

    You can learn about Geiranger through our travel guide. 

    Continue the drive

    Geiranger - Lom Drive

    Drive up the mountains on this continuation of the tourist road. 

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    Atlantic Road

    The Atlantic Road is located close to Åndalsnes. 

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!