Road-trips

  • Drive it Yourself: The Atlantic Road

    Drive it Yourself: The Atlantic Road

    The Atlantic Road is incredibly famous. I mean, whenever you see a list of the top things to do in Norway, it’s right up there.

    In Norway, it has earned the title of ‘Construction of the Century in Norway 1905-2005’. The UK’s Guardian once crowned it as the world’s best road-trip. Norway’s Aftenposten called it the ‘Most Beautiful Car Journey’. Lonely Planet called it the ‘World’s Best Place to Mend a Broken Heart’. The television program Fifth Gear named it the World’s Best for Car Testing.

    Yeah, the Atlantic Road is pretty great. But it’s also worth keeping in mind that the stretch of road they are talking about is only 8km (5 mi) long. Yes, really. It’s very short. Blink and you miss it. So, does that make it worth it?

    Absolutely! If you make a trip out of the whole drive between Kristiansund and Molde, you get to see spectacular coastline. You pass the famous Hustadvika stretch of sea, historic fishing villages, and famous mountain peaks. As long as you don’t surround your hype only on the famous bit of road, the Atlantic Road is excellent.

    Beyond the road, there are plenty of detours to be made: there’s the Kvernes and Rødven stave churches nearby, or you can take the ferry from Molde to Åndalsnes and do the Trollstigen Scenic Road – that’s what we did!

    We did the Atlantic Road in September 2020. The weather was horrible, and while I thought about simply not uploading the video, I think it’s important to show. After all, the west coast is known for this kind of weather and you may just get a day like this when you visit.

    Here’s my guide to the Atlantic Road, including what to see and do, plus some worthy detours, along the way. I do the trip from Kristiansund to Molde, but this drive can easily be reversed.

    In this article...

    Download this Guide

    All of our guides can be downloaded via our online store. 

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

    Online Guide

    Downloadable Guide

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    The drive: The Atlantic Road

    Kristiansund

    This drive begins in Kristiansund. Kristiansund is a seaside city built across four islands. 

    Kvernes Stave Church

    Stave Church/Detour

    Kvernes Stave Church is one of Norway’s 28 remaining stave churches. The church is not far from the beginning of the Atlantic Road, but it is a bit of a detour. 

    As you’re driving along the Fv64 towards the Atlantic Road, you’ll reach a town called Bruhagen. There will be a left-hand turn with a brown tourist sign saying stave church – follow that. After 9km, you will be at Kvernes. 

    To get back to the Atlantic Road, just keep following the road you took – it loops around the island you are on and it’s quicker to not go all the way back and rejoin the Fv64.

    Click here to read about Kvernes Stave Church.

    Geitøya

    Island

    Geitøya (Goat Island) is the first main island you’ll cross onto. Almost immediately after crossing onto the island, there’s a large parking lot if you want to take photos. However, the better parking lot is on the other side of the island – just a couple minutes drive.

    This is where you’ll get the famous photo of the Atlantic Road.

    The first parking lot you’ll see is for the ferry to Håholmen – there’s not much to take photos of from here!

    Otherwise, Geitøya has many short walks along the shore and up on the hills that provide rewarding views. You can also take a ferry to the historic Håholmen fishing village. Håholmen has been a fishing community since the beginning of the 1700s. Here, they primarily produced stockfish. Today the village is a large hotel complex. Don’t let that scare you off! The fisherman’s cottages have been transformed into rental properties. They are well preserved and very unique.

    The owner of Håholmen is Ragnar Thorseth, a famous Norwegian explorer and author. He rowed from Måløy on the west coast to the Shetland Islands in 1969, following the same route that the Vikings did. In 1975 he spent five months crossing the Atlantic, again following the same route as the Vikings. Thorseth was captain on the Viking ship Gaia that sailed from Norway to New York in 1991.
    Learn more about Håholmen

    Famous Viewpoint

    Viewpoint

    The second large parking lot on Geitøya is perfect for photos. There are many places to park, but keep in mind they may fill up in summer. From the parking lot, it’s a couple minutes walk to the viewpoint for the bridge. If you choose to walk around the site, you can see one of the famous sculptures of the Atlantic Road: the plastic crab (plastkrabben).

    The sculpture is supposed to reflect on the amount of plastic in the sea. You can see images of it here.

    There is a path all around the island. It looks just like my picture above. You can continue following it past the viewpoint to reach the plastic crab and get more photos of the island.

    Parking here is free. According to the tourist road website, there’s a cafe here in the summer months. It’s open weekdays from 1 June -31. August from 12pm – 4pm and on weekends from 11am – 5pm. There are toilets open all year round.
    You can view their page here. 

    Hustadvika Coastline

    Coastline

    Hustadvika is a municipality located between the traditional districts of Nordmøre and Romsdal.

    The municipality is named after the 19km (12 mi) long Hustadvika coastline. The coat of arms depict a fish and a plow, representing the two main industries: fishing and agriculture.

    Hustadvika sits on the northwestern end of the Romsdal peninsula along the Hustadvika shorline. There are a number of small islands here, and the terrain is either marshy or very rocky. Most people live on beaches along the coast.

    The Hustadvika shoreline is notorious as one of the most dangerous stretches of sea along the Norwegian coast. If you’ve done it on the coastal ferry (Hurtigruten), you probably know what I’m talking about. It is a 10 nautical mile (18.5km) stretch of open sea and is part of the shipping lane between Bud and Kristiansund. Unlike most of the Norwegian coast, there are no islands or skerries sheltering waves. The area is shallow and has many islands and reefs, so ships have to go outside in the open ocean. This creates a very bumpy ride if you are on Hurtigruten on a stormy day. It’s also why the weather on the Atlantic Road is often not so great – there’s nothing protecting the road from the open sea.

    There’s a photo stop for Hustavika later on in the drive. 

    Other Side

    Viewpoint

    If you are unable to get parking, just head across the bridge and park on the other side. The views are just as good, but there’s no cafe or plastic crab keeping people parked for long periods of time.

    The famous bridge is called Steinsundbrua (Steinsund Bridge). You can view the national tourist road website about it here. 

    End of the Road

    Viewpoint

    When you see the brown sign saying “Hågå 400m” – that’s the end of the bridge/island part of the Atlantic Road. Yes, it’s that short. But there’s still so much more to see. So let’s keep going!

    Hågå

    Walking Trail

    Håga is one of the roadside attractions you can spend some time at. It’s a walking path that leads to the coast, and at the other end is a sculpture consisting of marble white columns scattered all over the landscape.

    You can view images & more info at the tourist road website here. 

    Farstad

    Town

    Farstad is a small town with a population of 256. It has many facilities here. Farstad is also home to Hustad prison, a former civil defence camp, and the police ATK centre.
    The Farstad Beach is the world’s most northerly sandy beach of the ‘southern type’ and is used for kiting and windsurfing. Here’s a link with more info and pictures of the beach.
    Farstad has access to some hiking trails as well as a coastal walking path. 

    Hustad

    Town

    Hustad is the next little town we drive through.

    Hustad is a small village with a population of around 250.
    It has all the facilities you’d expect of a small town. The surrounding nature provides plenty to do. The Stemshest mountains are to the east, and there are five lakes nearby that are well-stocked with trout. There are numerous hiking trails from Hustad.

    Hustad is a known historic place. It’s mentioned in Bergen in 1329 as Hustodum regarding the land owners. After all, nearby Bud was a historic trading place with Bergen. Hustad is mentioned even earlier than that. In the Norse Sagas by Snoore Sturlasson (Heimskringla), Øystein Magnusson, who was the King of Norway in 1103-1123, died during a stay at the royal estate Stim at Hustad. The location of the royal estate is unknown today.

    Hustad Church

    Hustad Church is a typical 19th century white wooden church. However, there has been an older church here. The earliest existing records of a church date back to 1589, but there was likely a church here as far back as the 12th or 13th century. The church in the 1500s was a stave church. At some point, the stave church deteriorated and a new church was built next to it. In 1646, both churches stood side by side. At some point the stave church was torn down. Later on, the newer church was destroyed by a lightning strike. A new church was built, but it was too small and replaced by the present church.

    Aslaksteinen

    Rock Formation

    Close to Hustad is the Aslaksteinen, a 200m high rock formation that was inhabited more than 2000 years ago. The traces they left behind shows stays for longer periods and that they spent their time cooking and making handicrafts. My kind of hidden rock village!

    In the 1980s, archaeological investigations were carried out. Charcoal, burnt bones and shards from pts were found. Furthermore, an iron knife and several flint pieces that were likely used for fire were found. Archaeologists found ornaments in the form of bronze bracelets dated to the Viking Age.

    Today you can hike to the site. Here’s a link to the hiking trail. There are signs pointing to Aslaksteinen from the main highway. 

    Kjeksa Viewpoint

    Viewpoint

    At this viewpoint you’ll find some picnic tables, an information board about Hustadvika, and some excellent views of the open ocean and coastline. The stop is by the highway, so I recommend pulling over to take some photos. Bud is only a few minutes from here.

    Bud

    Town

    Welcome to Bud!

    A historic fishing village

    Bud is a historic fishing village. The name (pronounced more like bood than the English word bud) comes from the old fishing cabins: a ‘bu’ was a cabin where fishermen would live during the seasonal fishing. The word is found in many places along the coast. For example, the rorbuer are very popular in Lofoten.
    Bud was at its peak during the 14th and 15th centuries. This was during the height of the Hansa period in Bergen, and the demand for fish for export was great. Bud is close to the fishing grounds, and it became a large place for fishing. Until the 17th century, Bud was one of the largest trading places between Bergen and Trondheim.

    The final Norwegian State meeting

    After the death of King Frederick I of Denmark in 1533, there was a push for Norway to leave the Kalmar Union (between the three Scandi countries). On top of that, Denmark was pushing for the Protestant Reformation in Norway, and the Catholic country didn’t want that.

    The archbishop Olav Engelbrektsson of Nidaros called the meeting with the Norwegian state committee as he felt the Catholic Church (and Norway as a country) was being threatened by Denmark and the Reformation. Important issues were discussed, but no decisions were made. The attempt for independence failed. The Reformation was introduced, the Norwegian state committee was dissolved, and Norway became further incorporated into the Danish state. This was the final blow for any hope of an independent Norway. The council was the last of its kind in Norway for 270 years.

    There is a monument in town to commemorate the meeting. It was removed by German occupying forces in 1941, but was put back in 1947.

    World War II

    Bud was occupied during World War II and became an important part of the Germans’ Atlantic Wall along the west coast of Europe. The Ergan coastal fortifications were built near Bud. They were the largest built during the war in Norway by Germans. In addition to 350 German troops, there were 150 Russian and Polish prisoners of war in Bud during the war.
    The goal of the fortifications was to monitor the busy Hustadvika shipping lane and the approach to the towns of Ålesund, Molde and Kristiansund.

    It is possible to visit the remains of the fort today. It’s open as a museum during the summer months. You can find info here. 
    Outside Bud Church is a memorial to the locals who passed away during World War II. 

    Bud Today

    Today Bud is still an active fishing village, and you can see the drying racks along the shoreline. There are some excellent seafood restaurants, shops, and a coastal museum here.
    If you want to stretch your legs, you can walk along the coastal path that circles around the village. Along the way are information boards explaining Bud’s history. There are also great views to the village and the sea.

    Molde

    The Atlantic Road ends in Molde, a beautiful town. You can find more information about Molde at the Hidden North travel guide. 

    Continue the drive

    Trollstigen Tourist Road

    Take the ferry from Molde across the fjord and begin the most famous tourist road in the country (besides the Atlantic Road, of course). 

    Previous Route

    Oppdal to Kristiansund

    Take a secret highway through a dramatic valley to Kristiansund. 

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Norway’s Highways: Highway 70 from Oppdal to Kristiansund

    Norway’s Highways: Highway 70 from Oppdal to Kristiansund

    Follow our guide for the drive from Oppdal to Kristiansund! Kristiansund is typically only visited by people driving on the Alantic Road. Of course, the Atlantic Road is famous for a reason. However, if you’re looking to combine your road-trip with something a little more ‘off the beaten path’ but just as beautiful, I really recommend Highway 70. 

    Highway 70 goes from Oppdal in Central Norway to Kristiansund on the west coast. It connects you to Trondheim and Roros, two places I always recommend visiting. 

    You start at the top of the hills, and eventually wind your way down a steep valley, ending up surrounded by 1000m (3000ft) high mountains. Eventually you reach the fjords, which lead you all the way to the coast.

    Here’s my overview of what to see and do on Highway 70. 

    In this article...

    Download this Guide

    All of our guides can be downloaded via our online store. 

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

    Online Guide

    Downloadable Guide

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    The drive: Oppdal to Kristiansund

    Oppdal

    This drive begins in Oppdal, a beautiful town surrounded by national parks. It is also located at the junction of the E6 and Highway 70, making it a perfect place to start our road-trip. 

    Vang Burial Mounds

    Historic Site

    These are the largest burial mounds in Norway: there are at least 700 graves here spanning an area of 100 acres. People were buried here with their precious items between 400 AD and 1000 AD. This means the graves are pre-historic, pre-Christian and Viking graves. What makes this place even better is that it’s largely in tact.

    The area around Oppdal – the major town near Vang burial mounds – was a known wealthy site during the Viking Age and one of the most important places in pre-Christian Norway. 

    Excavations show that Oppdal as in contact with Christianised Ireland during the Viking Age. Many swords have also been found here. All the finds are in the Science Museum in Trondheim.

    I recommend going for a walk around here before starting the drive. There are marked trails and information boards everywhere. Just note – we found there was a lot of sheep poop! It’s a grazing area for sheep as well, so you’ll see and smell them. Clean your shoes before you get back in the car. 

    The site is well marked on Google Maps & there are brown tourist signs leading you there. The road down is paved, narrow, and slightly steep. There is a large carpark but no facilities. 

    Oppdal Church

    Church

    Oppdal Church is a historic church from 1651. There has been a church here ever since Christianity was introduced, and the present church replaced a stave church. As we know, Oppdal was an important place not just during the Viking Age but also during the early years of Christianity – it is situated on the historic pilgrims road. Therefore, it can be assumed that Oppdal Church was very important in the old times.

    It is possible to visit the church.

    Note – just before the turnoff is Håkkåran – the highest point on the highway at 600m (2000ft). 

    Image source

    Trollheimen

    Mountain Range

    Trollheimen is a famous mountain range. It is considered the most varied of all mountain ranges in Norway: the western part are alpine in form, with pointed peaks. Meanwhile, the mountains in the east are less steep with rounded shapes and wide valleys. The park has a unique flora and it is believed Trollheimen was one of the first areas in Norway to be cleared of ice after the last Ice Age.

    There are several traces of people using the mountains as a hunting ground. The hunters made traps for reindeer and are considered to be among the first wave of humans migrating to Norway. If you happen to be hiking near the glaciers in late summer/autumn it’s recommended to keep an eye out for prehistoric artefacts.

    If you plan on taking a detour to Trollheimen, I recommended spending at least one night there: it’s not close enough that you can quickly drive there and back. Additionally, the best views of the mountains are only accessible via hiking.

    Want to see the exact view in the photo? See info on how to get there further below 🙂 

    Resources:

    Lønset

    Village

    Lønset is a small agricultural village with a population of 450. There is a local church here from the early 19th century, though it was built to replace an earlier 18th century church. It has a memorial outside it for the 32 who were killed in the Kletthamranskredet in 1868. This is the largest avalanche in Norwegian history. The main industry is agriculture with 42 active farms, followed by tourism.

    Møre og Romsdal County

    Møre og Romsdal is a county in central-western Norway. The county is made up of three districts: Nordmøre, Sunnmøre and Romsdal. The name of the county represents these regions. We are in Nordmøre. 

    The county is similar to Vestlandet (to the south) and Trøndelag (to the north) in that it has a mild but wet climate thanks to the Gulf Stream and Atlantic Ocean. 

    Agriculture is an important industry, though oil and gas is growing thanks to the Ormen Lange field – the second-largest deposit on the Norwegian shelf. Møre og Romsdal is Norway’s largest fishing county measured in export value, and clipfish is very popular. 

    Today tourism is very important to the region. The county has some of Norway’s most famous destinations, including the national scenic roads Trollstigveien and Atlanterhavsveien. Additionally, Geiranger is one of the largest cruise ship destinations and the Geirangerfjord is on the UNESCO World Heritage list.

    The largest cities in Møre og Romsdal are Ålesund, Molde and Kristiansund. 

    Nordmøre

    Traditional Region

    We have entered the county and are in the Nordmøre traditional region. People first settled here after the last ice age, and findings from the Fosna culture have been found near Kristiansund.

    Nordmøre is mentioned several times in the old Norse saga. It’s believed that it was one of the first petty kingdoms conquered by Harald Fairhair when he was unifying Norway into one country. Nordmøre is also one of the first places Olav Tryggvason and his army christianised on their travels. 

    Åmotan Gorge

    Natural Attraction

    This site has been described as the ‘Niagara of the North’. I’m not sure how accurate that is, but it certainly is quite the site. Åmotan Gorge is an area with steep mountain peaks, moorlands and terraces. This is the place where five rivers meet, creating spectacular waterfalls.

    The parking area is 5km/3 mi off the main highway. Guided walks take place in summer, but the area is well-marked if you want to do it on your own.

    The Gorge is close to Åmoten-Grøvdalen, which is part of the Dovrefjell National Park. 

    Romfo Church

    Church

    There has been a church here since the end of the 16th century, though it has moved a few times due to flooding from the Driva River. The present-day church is from the early 1800s and is built in this, ahem, unique octagonal shape. 

    Inside are some items from the older churches, including an altarpiece from 1713 and a figure of St. Olav from the Catholic times. 

    Leikvin Cultural Heritage Site & Open Air Museum

    Historic Site

    The Leikvin Cultural Heritage Park is a historic site that provides an interesting overview of Sunndal’s history. 

    The park is spread out over a farmstead that was famously lived in by Lady Barbara Arbuthnott (1822-1904) from Scotland. She had visited Sunndal several times with her husband, William Arbuthnott, and in 1868 they bought half the farm here. 

    After she and William divorced, Barbara remained here and lived with a tour guide Oluf Endresen, who managed the farm. She learned Norwegian and became a pioneer in agriculture, importing British pigs and chickens to her farm. She wrote many Norwegian books on chicken breeding. Besides that, she was known as being extravagant and throwing large parties on the farm. She became involved in the local health service and hunting club, having a hunting lodge and local library built. 

    Today the park consists of several interesting sites. The open air museum has a collection of buildings and objects from the old peasant culture in Sunndal, plus a collection of the rich folk art from here. Exhibitions explore British salmon fishing, 10,000 years of reindeer hunting, plus the history of Sunndal. 

    The botanic garden (called Phillipshaugen) is worth seeing. It has a large collection of rhododendrons, plus around 50 species. It’s designed in a British countryside style. 

    Lastly, there is a burial ground here (Løkja). There are over 200 graves with finds from the Roman times until the end of the 10th century. All finds from the graves are at the Science Museum in Trondheim. 

    The museum is open between June and August, with guided tours available. Otherwise, the grounds are free to walk around in all year round. 

    Resources

    Sunndalsøra

    Town

    Welcome to Sunndalsøra, the largest town we’ll visit on the way to Kristiansund!

    Sunndalsøra is located in a beautiful spot. It’s at the mouth of the river Driva, which we’ve been following this entire drive, plus it’s at the beginning of the Sunndalsfjord, which we’ll be visiting next. The town is surrounded by steep mountains reaching heights of 1700m (5600ft).

    Industry

    While Sunndalsøra is a good rest stop, there’s not a whole lot to see. The town is dominated by the aluminium plant, which employs 900 people (total population 4,054). The plant has been operating since 1954 and in 2004 it was modernised to become the largest and one of the most modern aluminium plants in Europe. Aquaculture research, public service and agriculture are other main industries.

    Climate

    The climate of Sunndalsøra is unique. Atlantic lows produce a strong foehn effect in winter. This occurs when there is a strong low located southwest of the coast, bringing mild air from the Atlantic Ocean. The air is further warmed when forced over the mountains, and a dry warm air comes down to the fjord. Sunndalsøra has the national all-time high for all winter months: December with 18.3C (64.9F) (1998), January with 19C (66.2F) (2020) – this was also the warmest winter ever in Scandinavia, and February with 18.9C (66F) (1990).

    Hov Church

    Hov Church is the main church of Sunndalsøra. The church has had a very interesting history.

    The first church was mentioned in 1432, but it burned down in 1647 – it was likely a stave church. A new church was built, but it was built in such poor condition that it collapsed during a storm in 1725. A new church was built, but it was almost completely destroyed in 1727 by snow. So, a new church was built and it survived until 1849, when it was damaged by strong autumn winds. Another church was built, but it was destroyed by strong winds in 1883. The present church is from 1887 and is built on the same site as its predecessors. I don’t know about you, but I think it looks very sturdy today!

    Flåøya

    Peninsula

    Flåøya is a peninsula by the Sunndalsfjord. It’s a popular area where the locals go to spend time outdoors. It’s believed people lived here back in the Iron Age. Back then, it was an island in the middle of the fjord. There are many graves from the migration period to the Viking Age. If you walk around the site, there are information boards in English, Norwegian and German. In summer, you can swim here!

    The parking lot is only 6km / 4 mi from the highway, so that makes it a short detour. However, the best views are done by following the trail, and that can take some time. 

    Ålvundeid Church

    Church

    There has been a church here from at least 1309, according to historical records. The old church was demolished some time before the 1800s, and the new church was built in 1848. It is in an octagonal style. It’s typically not open for visits.

    Ålvundfjord

    Fjord

    Ålvund, or Ålvundfjord, is a small village at the beginning of the Ålvundfjord. Since 2004, it has not been considered an urban settlement by Statistics Norway. Yeah, it’s a small place!

    Tingvoll Municipality

    Welcome to Tingvoll Municipality! This is a small municipality with a scattered population, and we’ll be visiting the main town on this drive.

    The name is very special. Eight or nine centuries ago, Tingvoll was the site of the Nordmøre Ting – hence the name. There was a flat field here, which in Norwegian is voll. It was here that the meetings were held – ting + voll. Ting is best compared to a parliament: representatives from different regions come together to make decisions. Today, the parliament in Norway is still called Ting. Tingvoll is a name found in many place: the Scottish town of Dingwall, the parliament on the Isle of Man is Tynwald, the English town of Thingwall (colonised by the Norwegians), and Thingvellir (Þingvellir) in Iceland.

    It’s believed this is where the Tingvoll Church is today.

    Tingvoll Church

    Historic Church

    Tingvoll Church is one of the oldest stone churches in Norway. It’s well worth taking the two minute detour here to have a look at this gorgeous building.

    Tingvoll Open Air Museum

    Museum

    Tingvoll Museum is an open-air muesum built on an old farm. The farm itself is ancient, while the museum is from 1954 – that year the farm closed down and the municipality took over.

    The museum is comprised of farm buildings from the mid-19th century. Additional buildings have been moved here, including a workshop, mill, and school building.

    Tingvoll Museum is 1.7km off the main highway. It’s open from 12pm to 4pm during summer, and they have plenty of activities for kids during that time.

    Up-to-date opening hours and practical info can be found here.

    Bergsøya

    Village

    Agriculture and forestry are important industries here. Nearly half of all the employees commute to the neighbouring municipalities, especially Molde.

    Bergsøya has been connected to the mainland via bridge since the 1990s. Before then, it only had a ferry connection. The road we are on is nicknamed “Krifast” – it’s the main road connection between Kristiansund and the mainland. Because of this, it is often a very busy road.

    Frei Church

    Historic Church

    Frei is a fairly well-known island, especially when it comes to Norway’s early history. The early Norwegian kings often came here to take part in hunting, the most known being King Haakon the Good.

    Haakon the Good was also one side in a famous battle that took place here in 955. It’s called the Battle of Rastarkalv. Basically, it was one of several battles between King Haakon and the sons of Eirik Bloodaxe. After Eirik’s death, Harald Greycloak (one of the sons) and his brothers were allied with King Harald Bluetooth of Denmark against King Haakon. They set out to Frei to find Haakon and kill him. Haakon was smart, though, and he had set up a warning system with cairns that would be lit to tell of approaching fleets. Therefore, Haakon knew they were coming. Haakon fooled Eirik’s sons into believing they were outnumbered. The Danes attempted to flee the island, but when they arrived at the beach they realised that their ships had been pushed out to sea. Haakon gained victory and the Danish forces were slaughtered. Woohoo?

    Egil Ullserk, Haakon’s leading man, died in the battle. Today there is a stone monument near the Frei Church to commemorate the battle. 

    You should also visit Frei Church. It’s a very pretty yellow wooden church built in 1897 to replace an older building. However, the first church on Frei was mentioned in 1432. In the middle of the 1600s, it was described as a stave church. Sadly, in 1766 it was struck by lightning. The next church was torn down to be replaced by this one. 

    Frei Church is a short detour off the main highway. It’s located in the town Nedre Frei. 

    Nordlandet

    Island

    Nordlandet is one of the islands where Kristiansund city is located (it’s spread out over three islands). In the city centre area, Nordlandet consists of some old warehouses and homes, plus the Nordlandet church – the church that dominates the Kristiansund skyline.

    Further out, Nordlandet consists of large shops and a shopping mall, plus the Kristiansund Airport. At the airport is a helicopter base for the oil business. Nordlandet is the part of Kristiansund that has seen the most development in the last thirty years.

    It’s important to note that if you want to visit Nordlandet Church or the island, you have to drive all the way over the Rv70 from town – there’s no direct bridge from the city centre. There are ferries for people, though. 

    The picture above is Nordlandet from the city centre. It’s the island to the left – you can see Nordlandet Church. 

    Kristiansund

    Welcome to Kristiansund! You can find a comprehensive overview of Kristiansund via the travel guide below. 

    The Previous Drive

    Folldal to Røros

    On the previous day we had driven from Folldal to Røros in Eastern Norway. 

    The Next Drive

    The Atlantic Road

    On the following day we took one of Norway’s most famous drives, the Atlantic Road. 

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Drive it Yourself: Folldal to Røros: A Scenic Drive Through the Industrial Region of Eastern Norway

    Drive it Yourself: Folldal to Røros: A Scenic Drive Through the Industrial Region of Eastern Norway

    I love Røros. I’m fairly positive I begin each article about Røros with that statement, but it’s very true. Røros has an incredible history and is a very well preserved town. I’m surprised more travellers in Norway don’t go there.

    When we are visiting Røros in September 2020, we were driving up from Ringebu via the Rondane National Park. The road to Røros isn’t direct, but we didn’t mind. Little did we know that we were actually driving through a historic mining region. The road from Folldal to Røros is a very old mining area – mining began here in the 17th century. Many of the towns you pass through on this drive were established thanks to Røros Copperworks – the main mining company here.

    Even if mining isn’t of interest to you, don’t pass up a chance to drive through this gorgeous part of the country.

    Here’s my drive from Folldal to Røros via Alvdal on Highway 3 in Norway.

    In this article...

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    The drive: Folldal to Røros

    Folldal Mines

    Historic Site

    We begin at the Folldal mines, an old 18th century mine that is today heritage listed in Norway.

    Mining was the main industry in Folldal from the 18th century until 1993.

    Folldal Works (Folldal Verk) was founded in 1748, the same year the main copper mine opened. Copper, mine and zinc was all mined in Folldal. It was then transported by horse carriage to the neighbouring Alvdal municipality, where there was a smelter. In 1906, a 34km-long cable car (North Europe’s longest) was built to transport goods to the smelter.

    The main mine closed in 1941, but smelting continued using ore from other deposits until 1968. Business closed in 1993.

    Today the mines are a museum.

    The museum has short opening hours – late June to mid-August. They have some really interesting attractions and ticket combos, so I will be back!

    You can drive up to the carpark and wander around outside for free.

    Click here to view their website.

    On their website you’ll find opening hours and ticket fees.

    Vassaga

    Historic Site/Detour

    Vassaga is a preserved sawmill from 1900. It is powered by water and is unique because it has a special device for sawing shavings. This is the only known instance of a sawmill having a device for shavings. The shavings are used in roofing in the area.

    You’ll see signs pointing to it from the highway.

    Folldal Church

    Church/Detour

    Folldal Church is located on the road that leads to Vassaga. The church is a typical rural church from the late 19th century. The altarpiece inside is from the 17th century.

    Grimsbu

    Village

    Grimsbu is a tiny town; when I was researching it, some of the top hits on the web were for the IKEA furniture named after the town!

    There is a campsite in Grimsbu – the Grimsbu Turistsenter – that has everything you’ll ever need when camping. From Grimsbu, there are hiking and skiing trails plus spots for fishing.

    There is an ancient road in Grimsbu called Byveien. It is a route over the mountain that from around 1050 until the Reformation connected the pilgrims routes through Gudbrandsdalen and Østerdalen. In the 12th century, the road was laid out as a pilgrimate route from Innlandet to Nidaros. The road was forgotten for many centuries, but now there is an active effort to restore the road. The trail is north of Grimsbu. An image of it can be seen here. 

    Grimsbu also has an old BP petrol station that looks as it did when it was put there in 1955. There used to be a country store on the property – it dates back to 1900 – but in the 50s they modernised with a petrol station. A website for it is found here (also the image source). 

    The BP station is by the Fv29 and across the street from the Grimsbu Turistsenter – a hotel/cafe/shop building.

    Einunna

    Historic Site

    When Norway was invaded on 9 April 1940, a group of Norwegians mobilised in Alvdal. They organised a defence at Einunna Bridge by blowing it up.

    When the Germans arrive on 26 April, they inspected the bridge and the Norwegians surprised them with gunfire. A fight commenced, but the Norwegians were buried in snow and hard to see. The German tanks managed to keep the Norwegians down so most of the Germans could get out. They tried to advance, but it was impossible. The Germans did eventually occupy Alvdal, but they came in via another road.

    From 2020, the bridge is being rebuilt.

    There was a rest area, but when I visited it was closed due to the construction work.

    Info about the WWII battle

    Musea i Nord Osterdalen link

    Alvdal Municipality

    You cross into Alvdal Municipality.

    Alvdal

    Town

    Alvdal is a small town (pop. 2,418) with a long tradition of mining, as is common in this part of Norway (and the focus of our drive!).

    There has been mining in Alvdal since 1656, when the first finds of copper ore were made nearby. Mining didn’t take off until copper was found in Folldal in 1745.

    The mines in Folldal got into disputes with the mining operations in Røros, including access to timber. Due to the little access to timber in Folldal, a smelting hut was built in Alvdal instead. Alvdal has plenty of access to timber. It was less resource intensive to transfer ore to Alvdal than it was to transport wood to Folldal.

    New mines were built around the area in the 18th century. From 1905, a cable car was used to transport ore to Alvdal.

    Mining operations declined and have mostly ended now. Today the largest employer is the dairy company, and many people work in agriculture and the timber industry.

    Glomma River

    River

    At 621km (386 mi), the Glomma is Norway’s longest river. It has a drainage basin that covers 13% of Norway’s surface area, all in the southern part of the country.

    At its full length, the river runs from Aursund near Røros and empties into the Oslofjord in Fredrikstad.

    The combination of raw materials, water power and transport has over the centuries encouraged industry along the Glomma. Some of the country’s largest manufacturing and processing businesses are found at its mouth.

    Tynset Municipality

    You cross into Tynset Municipality.

    Tynset

    Town

    Tynset is a small town located in the north of Østerdalen, or the Eastern Valley. It is first mentioned in 1211, when the archbishop of Nidaros consecrated a stave church. There is no stave church today; there are parts from an old stave church at Kvikne (more on that below).

    The town is known for its vast areas of forest and mountains, which are ideal for outdoor activities. Tynset is also one of the few places where most of its mountain farms (seter) are in use. You can visit them when hiking, and even rent some for the night.

    Kickers/kicksleds (Norwegian: spark) are produced here. The world’s largest kicker is in the main square of Tynset; it is four times life-size.

    Kvikne

    Historic Site/Detour

    Kvikne is home to the Kvikne copperworks, founded in 1630, which was one of Norway’s first copperworks. This led to the population in the mountain village rising and laying a foundation for further development. The copperworks was run by the Danish King, and was the largest copper plant in Norway. Eventually Folldal and Røros became more important, and Kvikne was clsoed down in 1812, though operations continued in a much smaller capacity until 1912. Only ruins remain today, but you can visit them.

    Kvikne Church is from 1654 and seats 203. It has decorated equipment and an interior with a carved altarpiece and pulpit. The crucifix is in the Romanesque style and dates to around 1200. In the attic, stave church planks in the Urnes style have been found, probably from an older church on the site. Bjørnstjerne Bjørnson was baptised in the church.

    Close to the church is the Bjørgan vicarage, a museum and former vicarage in Kvikne. It is considered an artists home as Bjørnstjerne Bjørnson (1832-1910) was born here and lived here until he was five.

    The house is built in 1780 and was a vicarage until 1860. The building was supposed to be demolished, but it was saved in an attempt to make it a museum for Bjørnson. Several items from his time are on display in the museum.

    Kvikne is a 40 minute drive from Tynset, so it is quite the detour but worth doing.

    Telneset

    Town

    The next small town along the Fv30 is Telneset. It is not an old town; it was actually built up alongside the establishment of the Røros Line in 1877. A small community was built up around the train station, and soon there was a post office and a sawmill. The sawmill made materials for building houses, and soon there was a concrete foundry to supply roof tiles and pipes, plus a carpentry to make windows, doors and furniture.

    Telneset saw a dramatic event take place here during World War II. On 24 April 1940, the Germans were coming up Østerdalen while a train with Norwegians was in retreat. The train was shelled and had to stop at Telneset. German planes came and dropped 13 bombs on the train and the damage was great; six Norwegians were killed.

    Today Telneset is a small agricultural community.

    Tolga Municipality

    You cross into Tolga Municipality.

    Tolga

    Town

    Our next stop is Tolga, which was built up around the Tolga smeltehytte (smelting cabin) in the 1660s. The smelter was operated by Røros Kobberverk and it was in operation until 8171. Tolga was a suitable location because it had waterfall power plus a good supply of timber.

    Today many people work in agricultural, though the municipality is the largest employer.

    In the town centre you’ll find an old farmstead called Dølmotunet. During the summer there are tons of activities thee, and an exhibition has items from the Stone Age to the 19th century.

    You can learn more about the smelter here. 

    Os

    Town

    Os is a small village with about 25% of the population working in agriculture. The timber industry is also important to the region.

    A skirmish took place here duing World War II. It was the last skirmish in the region before the Germans were able to occupy the area, and it was one of the few fighting operations where Swedish and Finnish volunteers participated in fighting against the occupying forces in 1940. The Germans burned down eight farms as reprisals.

    In Os you’ll find a museum with objects preserved from the region. The Forollhogna National Park is also nearby. The mountain peaks are popular for skiing in the winter.

    Trøndelag County

    You cross into Trøndelag County.

    Røros Municipality

    You cross into Røros Municipality.

    Røros

    Welcome to Røros! We made it. Røros is a UNESCO World Heritage Area full of history, charm, and things to do. I recommend parking at the Smelthytta Musuem and exploring Røros on foot. You can spend heaps of time here – be sure to make the most of it.

    The Previous Drive

    The Rondane National Park

    The best way to get to Folldal is by taking the Rondane Tourist Road. 

    The Next Drive

    Oppdal to Kristiansund

    On the following day we drove to Kristiansund on the west coast of Norway via Oppdal. 

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Drive it Yourself: Rondane National Park

    Drive it Yourself: Rondane National Park

    The Rondane National Park is incredible. When I was editing the footage for this article, I desperately wanted to get in the car and go. This is the same reaction you’ll have when looking through this article.

    The park needs no introduction; images speak for themselves. I also don’t really need to convince you why you should visit. But you should. The Rondane National Park is Norway’s first, established in 1962. A primary reason for making it a national park was to protect the famous ‘Rondane massif’ (pictures above). Also, there is a large population of wild reindeer in the mountains and ancient traps used by nomadic hunter-gatherers.

    The drive is the national scenic road for Rondane – one of Norway’s 18 national tourist roads (click here to view their site). 

    It’s not a particularly long drive and can easily be done in a morning. There are hiking trails (long and short) everywhere, so you can spend some days here if the outdoors is your thing.

    We drove through the Rondane National Park on our way from Ringebu in Gudbrandsdalen to Røros, a UNESCO World Heritage town. In this article, I cover the section from Ringebu to Folldal, and the next article will be Folldal to Røros.

    For this drive, you pass incredible views, historic sites, and small towns. It’s not touristy at all. But trust me, it’s worth doing.

    Here’s my guide for the Rondane National Scenic Drive, from Ringebu to Folldal.

    In this article...

    Download this Guide

    All of our guides can be downloaded via our online store. 

    Download this guide to have it as a PDF ready to go for your road-trip!

    All downloadable guides come with an interactive Google Map for easier navigation. 

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    Rondane Tourist Road

    Ringebu

    This drive begins in Ringebu, a small village close to Lillehammer in the Gudbrandsdalen Valley. 

    Venabygd

    Village

    Venabygd is a tiny town on the highway. There’s not much here – not even a sign welcoming you to the town – but you will see the church.

    Venabygd Church is from 1780.

    Venabygdsfjellet

    Mountains

    The next part we’ll be driving through is Venabygdsfjellet, a mountain area just south of the Rondana National Park. It varies between 850 and 1000m above sea level. The terrain is partly above the tree line.

    There were many farms here in ancient times, but today the area is characterised by cabins and hotels.

    Venabygdsfjellet is guaranteed snow throughout winter. There are 140km of marked ski trails. There is a competition from Høvringen in Rondane to Lillehammer called “The Troll Trail” – it is the world’s longest 1-day ski run (95km). The race takes place in early April.

    The area is very popular with hikers and cyclists in summer.

    You’ll pass some supermarkets, cafes and hotels here. Also keep an eye out for the chapel from 1979.

    Rondane National Park

    National Park

    Soon you’ll pass the official sign welcoming you to the Rondane National Park Tourist Road. We’ve made it!

    Rondane National Park is Norway’s first; created in 1962 to protect the Rondane massif, regarded as the finest alpine hiking region in Norway.

    The area has been inhabited by thousands of years, as evidenced by ancient reindeer-trapping sites and burial mounds. Rondane National Park is home to one of Norway’s oldest wild reindeer populations, with an estimated 2,000 to 4,000 in the mountains. They are not friendly like the semi-domesticated reindeer in the north, so if you encounter them walk away slowly.

    After the last Ice Age ended, climate changes allowed the reindeer to spread across Scandinavia, only to eventually be forced back to a much smaller area.

    On the mountain plateaus, there is evidence that the hunter-gatherers lived off reindeer. Large traps used to catch reindeer are found all over the park. They are constructed from stone to make holes or large fenced-in areas. Reindeer were tricked or led in.

    There are also small stone walls. They are believed to have been used as hiding places for archers waiting for prey. The earliest traps may be 3500 years old. Additionally, remains of houses from 500 to 700 AD are found in the area. Considering all of this, it’s believed that people lived and hunted here until the Black Death in the 14th century.

    After a decade of planning, Rondane was established as the first national park on 21 December 1962. It was first established as a nature protection area, but was later named a national park. In 2003, the park was enlarged from 580 to 963km2 (224 to 372 sq mi).

    More on the park later. Lets get back to driving.

    Atnbrua

    Village

    The first village in the park in Atnbrua, and there are a few things you can do here.

    Industrial Museum

    There is a museum called Atnbrufossen Vannbruksmuseum. It is all about the use of hydropower in industry here in the mountains, and it is located on Atnbru waterfall. The museum complex consists of a restored flotation plant, sawmill and hydropower plant. You can see a sawmill, sauna, drying house, timber floating plant, and a small power plant. Industrial traditions here date back to the 18th century, making it an interesting place to visit. The opening hours seem to be rather short, but they also open by appointment.

    Click here for more info on the museum. 

    War Collection

    A little past that museum is another, possibly more interesting one. The Sollia War History Collection was put together by one of the locals on a heritage farm (more on that soon). The war museum has weapons, uniforms, and items from the Norwegian resistance group ‘Milorg’ and the Norwegian Nazi party ‘Nasjonal Samling’. The owner of the museum, Jo Øvergaard, even has items from her own family’s collection as her father was part of ‘Operation Grebe’ from 1944 (click here to read about that). Jo will tell you lots of stories on your visit, if you’re interested.

    The farm, Amperhaugen, has been awaded the Olavsrosa from the Norwegian Hertiage Foundation, which is an award given to unique cultual experiences. You can spend the night at this fam. Click here to view their page.

    Again, it has very short opening hours but you can contact Jo and arrange a visit.

    Click here for more details.

    Knut Hamsun’s Cabin

    Additionally, there is a historic farm here. Practically across the street from the museum, Nordre Brænd was built in 1849 and is today still a farm but also a cabin area. Norway’s famed writer Knut Hamsun lived here for a year with his new wife Marie. He worked on the novel A Wanderer Plays with Sordin and the play Life in Violence in a cabin on the property. The cabin is still there today and you can rent it as a place to stay.

    Click here to view their website. 

    Otherwise, in Atnbrua you’ll find a supermarket.

    Solbergplassen

    Photo stop

    This is my favourite stop on the drive, simply because the view is spectacular.

    Here is where you’ll see the Rondane massif – a collection of tall barren mountains with the river flowing in front. This view has inspired many artists, but perhaps the most famous is Harald Sohlberg’s painting Winter’s Night in Rondane. After all, this stop is named after him.

    The viewing platform is interesting as well. It is built around the pine trees.

    Strømbu Rest Area

    Rest area

    If you are planning to go hiking, this is a great spot to park the car, as there are many paths leading off towards the mountains. Otherwise, if you just want to relax, there are benches, a covered area, and excellent views of the mountains.

    There is a tourist info office here, but it was closed when we visited. If they are open you can rent canoes or bikes, or they can show you short (1-2 hour) marked paths.

    If you want to learn about the history of Norwegian currency, this is the place! I know. It’s a bit weird. But there are information boards about the old banknotes in Norway. It’s only in Norwegian, but it’s not like you come to this viewpoint to read about banknotes.

    There are public bathrooms here but I must warn you: when we went, they were disgusting. The more you know!

    We walked down to the river – a short and easy walk – and took photos from there.

    Click here to view more images & info. 

    Exploring the Park

    National Park

    Much of the park’s glaciated and lichen-coated landscape is 1400m high, and 10 rough and stony peaks rise over 2000m, including Rondslottet (2178m), the highest, and Storronden (2138m). Rondanes range of wildlife includes 28 mammal species and 124 bird species.

    Rondane has a relatively mild climate, making it one of the safer areas for avoiding hiking in pouring rain. Low precipitation means less snow in the winter, but snow is still guaranteed on the mountains.

    The landscape was formed during the last Ice Age, 9,000 to 10,000 years ago. At that time large quantities of ice were formed, and it is believed the ice melted gradually. The ice melting must’ve been rapid when it happened, digging deep river valleys. There are a few small cabins here caused by rapid ice melting.

    There are no restrictions on where you can hike in the park, but please be considerate of the animal populations. It’s recommended to stay on marked trails. If you do happen upon some reindeer, slowly move away from them.

    The hiking season runs in July and August. There are guided hiking tours. Cabins you can spend the night in are scattered throughout the park if you want to spend a few days here.

    Folldal Municipality

    You cross into Folldal municipality. 

    Folldal Open Air Museum

    Museum

    The museum has a number of old farm buildings, including 18th century houses and 17th century cabins. There’s also a school building from 1898. Yes, it’s quite similar to other open-air museums, but worth stopping at if you are interested in history.

    Click here to view their website (in Norwegian only).

    Folldal

    This drive ends at Folldal, a beautiful town close to the Glomma River. 

    Folldal is a small town with a population of 526 that today focuses primarily on agriculture. The population is actually declining; between 2009 and 2019 the population fell by 5.6%.

    Long before there was a settlement here, the area was visited by nomadic hunters looking for reindeer. There are around 1,000 animal graves in Folldal, plus a mass trapping facility from the 13th century.

    According to local legend, the first man to settle here was the outlaw Torkjell Barfrost. According to the Faroese saga, Sigmundur Brestisson and his cousin Tori got lost in a snowstorm on Dovrefjell while on their way to meet Håkon Earl of Norway. They met Torkjell Barfrost and stayed with him, his wife and his daughter. They ended up staying with him for six years before moving on. Sigmundur and Tori spoke up in supoort of Torkjell, and eventually he was acquitted and became governor of the area.

    Even though Torskjell was the first man to live in Folldal, there wasn’t really a settlement until the 17th century. Folldal didn’t become a town until the 18th century, when mining started.

    Folldal’s Mining History

    Mining was the main industry in Folldal from the 18th century until 1993.

    Folldal Works (Folldal Verk) was founded in 1748, the same year the main copper mine opened. Copper, mine and zinc was all mined in Folldal. It was then transported by horse carriage to the neighbouring Alvdal municipality, where there was a smelter. In 1906, a 34km-long cable car (North Europe’s longest) was built to transport goods to the smelter.

    The main mine closed in 1941, but smelting continued using ore from other deposits until 1968. Business closed in 1993.

    The Previous Drive

    Gudbrandsdalen

    On the previous day we drove through the Gudbrandsdalen Valley to Ringebu. 

    The Next Drive

    Folldal to Røros

    After a short break in Folldal, we continue to Røros in Eastern Norway. 

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Drive it Yourself: Gudbrandsdalen

    Drive it Yourself: Gudbrandsdalen

    Gudbrandsdalen is a valley just north of Oslo. Described by VisitNorway as ‘the king of the valleys’, Gudbrandsdalen has a lot to see and do. There are tons of historic sites as the valley is historically important. There are ancient farms as the valley is one of the famous food produces of Norway. And there are outdoor activities aplenty as Gudbrandsdalen is close to some of the most beautiful scenery in Norway.

    I have a lot to say about Gudbrandsdalen. This is, in fact, one of the valleys you are likely to visit on your trip to Norway. It’s on the way to Geiranger from Oslo, meaning it’s quite popular with tourists. I take my groups through the valley, and we spend time at the stave churches, farms, and mountain villas.

    Gudbrandsdalen (which means “Gudbrands Valley” in Norwegian) begins at Lillehammer, home of the 1994 Winter Olympics and an American mobster in hiding, and ends at Vågå, where you have easy road connections to to the Stryn, Sogne and Valdres Scenic Roads, plus the Western Fjords – provided you go in summer. Most of these roads close in winter.

    This is my overview of Gudbrandsdalen, including what to see and do. Watch the video below to see what this drive looks like, and be sure to read along with this article 🙂 

    In this article...

    Download this Guide

    All of our guides can be downloaded via our online store. 

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

    Online Guide

    Downloadable Guide

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    The drive: Gudbrandsdalen Valley

    Otta

    This drive begins in Otta, located in the upper part of the valley. 

    Rondane National Park

    National Park/Detour

    Shortly after leaving Otta you’ll see signs point to Rondane National Park. You can find information about the park via the link below. 

    Sjoa

    Village

    Sjoa is a small town located alongside the river Sjoa – hence its name! The town is very well known for its water sports, including rafting and kayaking. The river is also rich in trout and grayling, making it one of several popular fishing rivers in Norway.

    Nord-Fron Municipality

    Kvam

    Village

    Kvam is probably most famous for the battles that took place here during World War II. During the military campaign in Norway in 1940, Kvam was the scene of a battle between German and British forces. During the battle, the original Kvam Church (from 1776) was destroyed, along with 70 houses. There is a whole Wiki page to the battles, which you will find here. 

    By Kvam Church is the Peace Park, which is a memorial to the locals killed during World War II. There are also memorials on Stølane (Kvamsfjellet) where Russian soldiers were shot by Germans, and on Hillingen where three Norwegian soldiers lost their lives in a battle against German troops.

    Kvam has a British military cemetery. There is also a museum about World War II, the Gudbrandsdal War Memorial Collection, in town.

    Remember the battle at Otta in 1612 between Norwegian peasants and the Scots? Well, after the battle 134 Scottish prisoners were taken from Otta to Kvam. At Klomstadlåven, most were killed in a massacre. The barn building where they were kept before they were massacred, was destroyed during World War II.

    Kvam currently has a population of 762. Most of the industry has closed down in the last few years.

    Vinstra

    Village

    Vinstra is a small town with a population of 2553 on the E6 and the Train from Oslo to Trondheim.

    Vinstra is perhaps most famous for its connection to Peer Gynt. A local man, Peder Olsen Hågå, was the model for Henrik Ibsen’s dramatic poem Peer Gynt from 1867. In the cemetery in Sødorp you’ll find a monument to Peer Gynt.

    Every year since 1967 the Peer Gynt Festival has been held on the Peer Gynt Farm, Hågå. The farm consists of 15 old buildings, and the festival includes, among other things, an open-air performance of the play.

    From Vinstra you can do the Peer Gynt Road through Gålå to Lillehammer. There’s also the Peer Gynt Seter Road to Kvam over the hills.

    Sødorp Church

    Historic Church

    Sødorp Church is a wooden cruciform church from 1752. It’s believed the first church on the site was a stave church, but it was replaced in 1570 and no trace of it remains today. In 1752, the church was replaced once again with the church we have today.

    Originally the church stood in Sødorp, a small town just south of Vinstra – hence its name. However, Vinstra emerged as a major town in the early 20th century, and it was decided to move the church there. In 1910, the church was moved to its present location. 

    The 18th century church originally had a very high tower, but it was destroyed by wind in 1850. The church then got a stumpy small tower (click here for a photo of it). When it was moved to Vinstra, they made a new high tower for the church. You can see photos of the construction process here, here, and its completion here. 

    Much of the interior is from the 18th century, including the altarpiece, pulpit, choir arch, crucifix and relief figures. The soapstone baptismal font is from the Middle Ages, though.

    In the graveyard you’ll find a memorial stone to the real Peer Gynt. 

    Sør-Fron Municipality

    Harpefoss

    Town

    Harpefoss is a small town with a population of 335. The name comes from the railway development in 1896, when the railway station was named Harpefoss. People have lived here for centuries, though, and old names were Skurdal and Ryssland. Harpefoss is the name of the waterfall that separates two hamlets.

    During the railway development, Harpefoss Hotel was built. It is the only hotel left that is one of the original hotels from the railway development period that still stands. It is built in Swiss style with neo-Gothic features. It has long since been closed down as a hotel, and after a period as a country store, the house is now a residence.

    In Harpefoss you can stay in a historic farm! 

    The farm ‘Sygard Grytting’ has belonged to the same family since the 14th century. The current owner is the 16th generation since the year 1534. 

    It’s believed that as far back as Christianity goes, pilgrims would stay at the property on their way towards Nidaros in Trondheim. Because of these, there are unusual details in some of the buildings that are very similar to details found in monasteries. 

    You can stay in historic houses from the 17th century – the same houses the pilgrims stayed in – or buildings from the 19th century. 

    The property is still a working farm. 

    Agriculture specialises in sheep, grain, grass production and forestry. In ancient times, the operation was very versatile and the farm was self-sufficient in most things.

    Click here to visit their website. 

    Hundorp & Dale-Gudbrands Farm

    Historic Site

    Hundorp is the administrative centre of the municipality. Historically, Hundorp is a very important place. It was the centre of the petty kingdom of the Gudbrand Valley and as such an important place in terms of religion and politics.

    All this took place at Dale-Gudbrand’s farm. Dale-Gudbrand is a famous historic figure from the 1100s. He is mentioned in multiple Norse sagas, but most famously in the story of Olav the Holy christianising Gudbrandsdalen. You can read the story here. The image above is a drawing of Olav christianising the farmers. 

    Around the farm are five large grave mounds, though sadly one of them was removed. The four remaining are between 23 and 32 metres (75ft and 105ft). Additionally, there’s a square ring of stones and the remains of a round ring of stones, indicating a possible worshipping site.

    Today it is a Pilgrim Centre. There is a small farm shop with local food products and souvenirs. You can also spend the night there if you wish. Click here to visit their website. 

    Ringebu Municipality

    Ringebu

    This drive ends at Ringebu, a scenic village home to one of Norway’s preserved stave churches. 

    The Previous Drive

    Valdresflye Tourist Road

    In the morning we drove across the beautiful Valdressflye Tourist Road.

    The Next Drive

    Rondane Tourist Road

    After spending the night in Ringebu, we continued over the mountains on the Rondane Tourist Road. 

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Drive it Yourself: The Valdresflye National Tourist Road

    Drive it Yourself: The Valdresflye National Tourist Road

    If you are looking for a great scenic road near the mountains, I do recommend Valdresflye. Everyone has heard of the Jotunheimen National Park, but you can’t exactly drive through the middle of it. The best way to see the park is to get out of your car and go for a hike. However, if you take the Valdresflye Scenic Road, you do get a glimpse at Jotunheimen’s beauty.

    Valdresflye is a mountain plateau in the easternmost part of Jotunheimen National Park. Reaching a height of 1,389m (4,557ft), it’s the second-highest mountain pass after Sognefjellet, a road famous for its bad weather. Valdresflye is a lot safer than Sognefjellet, and it is open longer than Sognefjellet.

    Valdresflye Scenic Road is not a long road (49km/30 mi), so you can take the time to park and go for many of the marked hikes. 

    If you are interested in historical sites, along the road you pass many ancient summer farms and mountain pastures.

    I got to do the Valdresflye National Scenic Road in September 2020, when I was travelling from Fagernes to the Gudbrandsdalen Valley. Below you’ll find all the info you need to do the drive yourself!

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    Downloadable Guide

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    The drive: Valdresflye Tourist Road

    Fagernes

    I recommend that you begin this drive in Fagernes. 

    Hegge Stave Church

    Stave Church

    Hegge Stave Church is a 13th century stave church located on the hillside near Heggenes village. It has undergone many repairs over the years, altering its appearance dramatically. The staves inside are still original, though. 

    Beitostølen

    Ski Resort/Town

    Beitostølen is a small town located 900m (3000ft) above sea level. As of January 2020, the population was 360. It is largely a tourist area, with several large hotels, cabins, shops and restaurants.

    Due to the proximity to Jotunheimen, as well as its height, Beitostølen is among the most snow-sure winter sports resorts in Europe, and ski season usually lasts from November to April.

    There are alpine slopes and cross-country trails totalling 320km. In summer, Beitostølen is very popular with hikers.

    The village has hosted the FIS Cross-Country World Cup and the Biathlon World Cup competitions.

    There is the Beitøstolen Health Sports Centre, a rehabilitation for the disabled. Ridderrennet, an international ski race for the disabled, is held at Beitostølen every year.

    Today Beitostølen is the second largest tourist destination in Innlandet County after Lillehammer.

    Bitihorn

    Mountain

    The most prominent peak you’ll see after starting the scenic road is Bitihorn, which is 1607m high. It’s a popular hike, and there’s a parking lot on the left where you can park. It’s near a Sami camp.

    Here is some info about hikes in the area.

    Bygdin Mountain Hotel

    Historic Hotel

    The history of the hotel goes back to 1867, when two brothers had an idea to build a hotel here and generate tourism. Originally their hotel was in a different location; when the road was finished and it didn’t go past their hotel, they moved it to the current location. The building was completed in 1897 and is now the oldest pat of the present-day hotel.

    Bygdin Hotel quickly became popular thanks to its good standard and location on the mountain pass. In winter, planes would land on the frozen lake with tourists.

    The first major renovation of the hotel was in 1910-1912, and you can still see this renovation in some of the historic rooms, the salon, and the entrance.

    During World War II, the hotel was used as an officer’s quarters. German and Austrian troops came here to practice warfare in the mountains. Up to 20,000 men and 600 horses passed through the area. At the hotel, a lot of furniture, paintings and valuables were confiscated. The piano was recovered after the war; it was found all the way in Trondheim. The piano is in the ladies’ lounge today.

    In 1964 a new brick building was added to the property. New owners took over in 2017, after stopping at the hotel to buy a waffle and deciding to buy it! The new owners are making efforts to preserve its historic character.

    You can stop here for a bite to eat and to admire the hotel.

    Historical info taken from the hotel’s website. 

    Flye1389

    Scenic viewpoint

    This is the highest point on the road, at 1389m above sea level (4557 ft). The cafe inside has food from Valdres and Gudbrandsdalen, plus incredible views over the mountain peaks. You can rent hiking equipment here. 

    Steinplassen

    Monument

    At the same photostop where I took the above photos you’ll see Steinplassen, a monument to all the cairns found on mountains. The mountain range here is the Jotunheimen mountains. 

    Bessheim Fjellstue & Hytter

    Historic Hotel

    Bessheim is a historic lodgings.

    The site was a sæter, which is a kind of old building and base that had everything anyone would need when in the mountains. It was important to those coming to their summer farms, but also for fishers and hunters. They would find equipment here, plus shelter if there was a storm. 

    As the area became more popular for hikers in the second half of the 19th century, the sæter became a good place for those seeking shelter. Eventually the sæter’s (there were three here) grew into lodges. The first building built for tourism was in 1890. The lodge ceased being used for cows and goats in the 1960s – yes, historically these lodges were also for animals! 

    There is one sæter still on the property, Sandnesstuggu, which you can rent for the night.  The hotel has remained in the family since 1890, with the current owner being the great-great granddaughter of the woman who built the lodge in 1890.

    Historic info taken from the hotel’s website (click here). 

    Hindsæter Hotel

    Historic Hotel

    Hindsæter Hotel is a small, historic timber hotel from 1898. Much like Bessheim, the hotel was originally a sæter; a farm that welcomed guests. As more people began to come here in the late 19th century, the farmer owner built a hotel. The landscape is historic, with old timber houses, stone fences, ski guards and grazing animals. The hotel even has its own hydropower plant.

    History taken from the hotels website (click here). 

    Ridderspranget Ravine

    Natural Attraction

    Ridderspranget, or ‘The Knight’s Leap’ in English, is a ravine formed by a river that has gnawed deep into the bedrock, so erosion has only taken place in the riverbed. The name comes from a legend about Sigvat Leirholar, one of the king’s advisers, who received a letter that a beautiful girl was to marry a knight. The girl did not want to marry the knight, so Sigvat decided to set her free! He picked her up and fled with her – the knight cased them but Sigvat jumped after Ridderspranget with the girl in his arms and they were free.

    It is a short and relatively easy walk to get to Ridderspranget. 

    Vågå Municipality

    Randsverk

    Settlement

    Randsverk is a small settlement with mostly cabins and campgrounds. There is a supermarket here, too!

    They have a lovely website, which you can view here. 

    In Randsverk you’ll find signs pointing to Jotunheimen National Park, but keep in mind that the road is gravel. You can also find the road down to Gudbrandsdalen. 

    Vågåmo

    Our final stop is Vågåmo, a picturesque small town located just off the Rv15. Information on Vågåmo can be found via the link below. 

    Continue the drive

    Gudbrandsdalen

    After finishing in Vågåmo, we drove east to Otta and then explored the Gudbrandsdalen Valley, 

    Previous Drive

    Numedal Valley

    Numedal is home to a large number of medieval buildings, including four stave churches. 

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Drive it Yourself: The Numedal Valley

    Drive it Yourself: The Numedal Valley

    The Numedal Valley is perhaps one of the best-kept secrets in Norway. Located between Kongsberg and Geilo, the valley contains the largest number of medieval wooden buildings in Norway; an impressive 40 ancient farm buildings and 4 stave churches. On this drive, we’ll see a lot of it!

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    Download this Guide

    All of our guides can be downloaded via our online store. 

    Download a copy of this road-trip to print and have it ready to go! All of my road-trip guides also come with interactive Google Maps, making it easier to navigate your way around. 

    Online Guide

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    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    The drive: Numedal Valley

    Kongsberg

    Kongsberg is a fascinating town to explore, and if you have a full day I recommend making the most of everything on offer. 

    Historically, Kongsberg is an important place. It was founded by the Danish/Norwegian King Christian IV as a mining community in 1624 after the discovery of silver. One year later, the Kongsberg Silver Mines were established.

    With the rise of silver mining, Kongsberg became the largest industrial centre in Norway until the 19th century. The silver mining contributed to 10% of Denmark-Norway’s GDP, which was mostly spent on Denmark’s endless wars with Sweden.

    Christian IV hired Germans from silver mines in Germany to help with the establishment and education of silver mining in Norway. Most of the workers throughout the mines history were Germany, though Norwegians gradually took over. 

    The mines also contained high-purity gold and a large amount of copper, cobalt, lead-zinc and flourite. 

    The Kongsberg Mines were energy intensive and difficult to work in. Eventually gunpowder was used in the mines. This also helped establish Kongsberg’s defence industry. Today, Kongsberg is known as the home of Norway’s major defence contractor, Kongsberg Gruppen. Two of its well-known products are Kongsberg Cold and the Krag-Jørgensen rifle.

    Kongsberg is also the site of the Royal Norwegian Mint, which mints Norwegian coins and produces circulating and collectors’  coins for other countries.

    In Kongsberg you’ll find many museums. You can also visit the Kongsberg Mines, where some buildings are still standing. The mountain has many hiking trails for all levels, and many choose to hike to Kronene i Håvet, a collection of royal monograms in the side of the mountain (click here for info). 

    Due to the huge Danish and German influence, the architecture in Kongsberg is unique compared to other pats of the country. It has also largely escaped fired. 

    Flesberg Municipality

    Flesberg Stave Church

    Stave Church

    The Flesberg Stave Church is the first of the four churches we’ll see today. It is first mentioned in history in 1359, but is probably from the latter half of the 1100s or the first half of the 1200s.

    It doesn’t look like much of a stave church, doesn’t it? It’s changed a lot over the years. The first-ever painting of a stave church is of Flesberg stave church, and it’s from 1701. We can see just how much it’s changed.

    In the 1730s, the church underwent its first restoration. It was expanded and some of the old parts were removed; as you can see, the new parts weren’t in a stave style. In 1792, the church got a new roof and the stave church choir was torn down.

    Today, the only original part of the stave church is on the western side, where you can see stave decorations around the portal. There are so few parts of the old church left.

    Rollag Municipality

    Rollag Open Air Museum

    Museum

    The Rollag farmstead is now an open-air museum. The farm consists of fourteen buildings around a courtyard. The museum shows what farms looked like in this valley, and the architecture is authentic. The buildings come from other farms in Rollag. There are over 1,000 objects that show everyday life in the village.

    You’ll see signs to the museum about 30 seconds before reaching Rollag Stave Church. 

    The museum is open in the summer months.

    You can view their website here. 

    Rollag Stave Church

    Stave Church

    The Rollag Stave Church was built in the 12th century as a single nave church, the simplest type of stave church. In the 17th century, it was rebuilt as a cruciform church.

    While there isn’t much of the original church left, Rollag Stave Church is still regarded as one of the most beautiful rural churches in Norway.

    Around the church you’ll find ancient stone walls. Some have rings for horses. In the cemetery is an ancient stone cross. It’s believed this site was an ancient gathering place for Christians before they got a church.

    Gamle Mogen Landhandel

    Vintage Shop

    This is an old country store turned museum. It was established in 1840 when a man from Telemark got a permit to sell liquor and make a store here. Inside you’ll find a good representation of an old country supermarket and general store. It’s not marked on Google Maps, so keep an eye out! There’s also a place called “Gamle Logen” in Oslo that Google Maps thinks you are talking about.

    Veggli

    Town

    The next town we pass through is called Veggli.

    The population here is 348 people. Veggli Church is located here. The church is from 1859 and is a typical rural church from this period.

    In Veggli you can drive a trolley on the disused Numedalsbanen. The trip starts in Veggli and ends at Rødberg. The trolley was used to inspect the railway line and was an important means of transportation for operators on the line.

    Behind the church in Veggli is an old cemetery. This is where a stave church used to be located. When the population grew substantially in the 17th century, the town needed a new church. At first, they rebuilt Veggli Stave Church just like they did with Rollag. However, when the new church was built in 1859, they demolished the old church. Only the apse wall survives, and it’s at the historical museum in Oslo. Some of the doors and details of the stave church were sold to farmers, who still have them on their properties.

    Mellom Kravik

    Historic Building

    This is considered to be one of the oldest private residences in Norway. The rooms on the ground floor are supply rooms, while the first floor has bedrooms. The loft has two rooms and each room has an entrance from the outside. It was likely constructed in the 14th century.

    The building is on a private residence and opens for the annual Medieval Week festival in the Numedal Valley.

    Next to it is an even older loft called Søre Kravik. Its architecture is descended from the Viking’s royal halls. This building is from the year 1300. The building functioned as a feast hall; the guests would sleep on the second floor and the main festivities took place on the first floor.

    Nore og Uvdal Municipality

    Nore Stave Church

    Stave Church

    The Nore Stave Church is the third church we pass. Its age is unknown, but judging the wood the church may be from 1167. The portal is the same as the one at Flesberg, which is from 1163-1189. 

    The floor-plan of this church is unique; no other church has this in Norway. Maybe other stave churches had this floor plan; there used to be 1,000 and now there’s only 28. There is also a central mast in the middle of the church, another unique element. 

    The inside of the church is absolutely beautiful and comes from all time periods, though most of it is from 1650-1750. 

    The church is open during the summer months. 

    Sevle Loft & Sevletunet

    Historic Buildings

    This is the newest of the lofts in Numedal. It’s from 1632 but the shape is typical medieval. What makes this one interesting is that it’s a bnb! The owners of the bnb are descendants of the original owners. One of the buildings is the old post office and the interior contains some original pieces. You can also stay in an old barn!

    Rødberg

    Town

    Rødberg is the largest town in Numedal with a population of 498. There are two powerplants here that utilise the waterflow from the dam (to the right). Rødberg was the terminal station of the Numedal railway line.

    Uvdal Stave Church

    Stave Church

    Compared to the other churches, Uvdal is located high on the hill-side and is surrounded by old farm buildings. The church was in use until the 19th century, when a new church was built further down the valley. The new church looks just like a stave church.

    It’s believed Uvdal stave church is from 1169. It has a central mast like Nore, used to hold up the bell. When excavations were done here, 200 coins were found from the 13th century and earlier. 

    Like the other churches on our drive, Uvdal has been extensively restored over the years. The inner core is the original stave church. 

    Uvdal Open-Air Museum

    Museum

    The museum is a historic farmstead located in the former village. You can see the vicarage storehouses, school house, and farm buildings. The open-air museum is open in the summer months, when they have local artisans with stalls.

    Uvdal Church

    Church

    This is not a stave church! Uvdal Church was built in 1893 to replace the Uvdal Stave Church as the main church. It’s built in the dragestil style, which takes inspiration from medieval and stave architecture in Noway. This church seats 350 people. You’ll notice this church has huge glass windows; that’s completely unseen in stave churches.

    Hole Municipality

    Dagali

    Village

    Dagali is a small mountain village close to Geilo. It is one of the highest settlements with permanent agricultural operations.

    Dagali has an airport that is today only used for recreation. There’s also the Dagali Opplevelser, which offers outdoor activities like wafter rafting and snowmobiling. In Dagali you’ll find an open-air museum with farm buildings from around the area.

    The climate here is subarctic, meaning there are very cold and very snowy winters and somewhat cool summers. Dagali airport has some of the coldest temperatures in southern Norway.

    Geilo

    We’ve made it to Geilo! With a population of 2,400, Geilo is primarily a ski resort town and one of the most famous ski areas in Scandinavia. It’s a great but expensive place to spend some time; after all, Geilo is known for having some of the most luxurious and expensive holiday cabins in Norway.

    The town is located roughly halfway between Bergen and Oslo on the national road 7 (E7), making it very accessible. Additionally, there’s the Bergensbanen, or the railway line linking Bergen and Oslo. Geilo was developed only when the railway was constructed, and it quickly gained a good reputation for winter sports.

    Geilo is the first skiing resort in the country and is still one of the largest. 

    The ski season lasts from late October to late April. There are 39 slopes covering 33km. There’s also an extensive cross country system in Geilo with 220km of tracks.In summer, there are plenty of sports activities.

    In the summer months, many Norwegians come here to go hiking or mountain biking. The Rallarvegen route from Finse to Flåm is extremely popular. That road is an old construction road that was used when the railway line was being constructed. 

    The town centre has a number of shops, including many outdoor and sports shops. There are two small shopping malls with free parking, and inside you’ll find supermarkets, cafes, bakeries, electronic stores and clothing stores.

    There are understandably many hotels in Geilo, and some of them are quite expensive. Some of them reflect the cabin lifestyle so may be basic, while others are more luxurious. They will have higher prices during the Norwegian summer holidays (late June to late August) and over the winter season. If you can, I recommend renting a cabin on AirBnB. When the owner isn’t using it they sometimes put it up for rent. It gives you a great opportunity to see what Norwegian cabins are like, and you really don’t need to stay in Geilo centre.  

    Continue the drive

    Valdresflye Tourist Road

    Cross the mountains on one of Norway’s most scenic tourist roads. 

    Previous Drive

    Telemark

    Take the scenic drive through Telemark from Dalen to Kongsberg.

    This drive is part of the multi-day series “Ultimate Norway”. You can read about the whole drive below. 

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Drive it Yourself: Scenic Telemark Drive on the Fv37 & Fv38

    Drive it Yourself: Scenic Telemark Drive on the Fv37 & Fv38

    Telemark is a region in southern Norway famous for its natural beauty and industrial heritage. On this drive, we’ll pass the birthplace of skiing, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and go to one of Norway’s highest peaks! To finish it all off, we visit Norway’s largest stave church. Join me for a beautiful drive through Telemark.

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    Download this Guide

    All of our guides can be downloaded via our online store. 

    Download this guide to have it as a PDF ready to go for your road-trip!

    All downloadable guides come with an interactive Google Map for easier navigation. 

    Online Guide

    Downloadable Guide

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    The Drive: Telemark

    Kongsberg

    Kongsberg is a historic mining town located in the southern part of Norway. It was also one of the wealthiest and important towns in Norway until the mid-19th century, making it an interesting place to visit. Kongsberg was established as an industrial town based on silver mines in 1623. It was initiated by King Christian IV, who brought Germans from the silver mines in Saxony to show the Norwegians how to mine. Kongsberg was Norway’s largest mining community and is the country’s oldest industrial town. It was Norway’s second-largest town in the mid-19th century, after Bergen.

    Løka Gamle Bridge

    Historic Bridge

    The Løka old bridge is a girder bridge from 1924 designed to cross the Jondalselva. It is built in concrete, which works the same way as steel in truss bridges. The railing supports the bridge, which is also called the whale bridge. There are only three bridges of this type in Norway. It replaced an older stone vault bridge, which is also preserved nearby. The bridge is on the westbound side of the highway.

    Notodden Municipality

    Notodden municipality is named after the historic town of the same name. The municipality borders the Telemark Canal and the eastern course of the Heddalsvatnet lake. Much of the municipality wasn’t inhabited until the beginning of the 20th century, when Notodden was established as a centre of industry.

    Notodden town is an interesting historic town, but it is not on the Fv37. To get there, shortly after entering the municipality there is a turn off onto a road that’ll lead to Notodden (20km / 12 miles away). Notodden is on the E134 highway.

    Gransherad

    Village

    Gransherad is a small settlement with around 750 people living there. The composer Klaus Egge was born in Gransherad. Gransherad Church is from 1849. Before this church, there was a stave church from the 14th century here.

    From Gransherad, you can follow the Fv361 to the E134, where you can head to Notodden.

    Tinnoset

    Village

    Tinnoset is a small settlement at the point where the Tinnsjå lake and Tinnelva River meet. Historically there was a hydropower plant here. This is where the ferries from Mæl (on the northern end of the lake) would offload their goods onto the train at Tinnoset railway station so they could be transported to Notodden. The railway station is still standing and is now a heritage-listed building. The address is: Tinnoset 31, 3691 Gransherad

    After Tinnoset you will be driving along the Tinnsjå Lake. The Tinnsjå Lake is Norway’s third-deepest lake, with an average depth of 190 metres.

    Gravtjørn Rest Area S/F Hydro Sabotage Site

    Historic Site

    The S/F Hydro was a Norwegian steam-powered railway ferry that delivered raw materials and fertiliser from the factory at Rjukan to the port in Skien. The ship was sunk by members of the Norwegian resistance in 1944, as the Nazi’s were using it to transport heavy water out of Norway. This happened in the lake parallel to where the parking place is, and there is an information sign at the parking place.

    Tinn Municipality

    Tinn municipality is mostly a mountainous municipality with parts of the Hardangervidda plateau included as well as Gaustatoppen, a famous mountain peak. The coat-of-arms represents five droplets of water. The design was chosen to represent the five rivers in the municipality and the importance of hydropower for the development of the town.

    Mæl Station

    Historic Site

    Mæl station was the ferry station on the historic Rjukanbanen railway that used to operate here. The station shut in 1991.

    The Rjukanbanen is the railway line running between Mæl and Rjukan. It was opened in 1909 and closed in 1991. The line was a private railway owned and operated by the Norsk Hydro company. There was a need to transport raw and materials in and out to the coast. The Rjukanbanen was the innermost link in an original four-part transport chain from the factory in Rjukan to the port in Skien. The railway will forever be linked to the introduction of modern industry in Norway, but also Norwegian war history. The battle for heavy water during World War II ended when the Norwegian saboteurs sank the steam ferry DF Hydro at a depth of 430 metres on Tinnsjøen on 20 February 1944.

    Mæl is still a port of call for the Tinnsjø ferries MF “Storegut” and “DF Ammonia”, two ferries which in the summer months are open for charter trips and tours. There is a place to park here as well as information signs about the history of the area.

    A short detour off the highway is a war memorial. Address Rollagvegen 44, 3658 Miland, Norway

    Miland

    Settlement

    Miland is a small village with a population of 291. The area is considered to have some of the nicest plots with views towards the mountain Gaustatoppen. Mæl church is located here and is a wooden church from 1839. It was built to replace an old stave church.

    Baustasteinen på Miland is a memorial stone is from 1914 and is in memory of those who fought for Norway at the initiative of the youth association. It has a quote from Per Sivle: “And if there were those who wanted to ravage the country, there were also those who wanted to defend it”.

    Rjukan

    Rjukan is a fascinating town. Here you will find the Vemork Museum, which is about Rjukan’s development as an industrial city and the role of the hydropower plant during World War II. After all, Vemork was the site of Norway’s most famous sabotage operation. 

    Gaustabanen

    Funicular

    Gaustabanen is a treat. You ride an underground funicular that was built for NATO during the Cold War (the purpose remains a mystery) and come out the other end on Gaustatoppen, a nearly 2000m-high mountain that (on a clear day) has a view over 1/6 of Norway!

    This is not to be missed (unless the weather is bad). But you will need at least 2 hours – preferably 3-4 – to do this ride. 

    Vemork Museum

    Museum

    The museum at Vemork is famous for its presentation of Rjukan’s war history. During World War II, Vemork was the site of the Norwegian heavy water sabotage, where Norwegian saboteurs prevented the Germans from producing nuclear weapons from heavy water, which was produced here. The exhibits in the museum present the four heavy water sabotages and the allied efforts to develop a nuclear bomb.

    During the war, the Nazis took over Norsk Hydro. German scientists discovered that uranium is useful for energy and weapons. Also, heavy water acts as a moderator in a reactor and contributes to the refining of uranium, suitable for atomic bombs. If you aren’t a science person, all that matters is that the Nazis were developing heavy water at Vemork in Norway for their atomic bomb.

    Norwegian resistance members discovered this, and immediately set about sabotaging their operations. They launched several attacks on the facility. The most famous is the sabotage operation in winter 1943. While they were able to damage the facility, production soon continued. However, the Norwegians were able to destroy the boats leaving Rjukan via Mæl and thus halt the Nazi plans to export the heavy water back to Germany.

    The museum is open throughout the year. You can find up-to-date information on their website:

    https://www.nia.no/en/vemork/

    Hardangervidda Nature Centre

    Museum

    The road follows the southernmost side of the Hardangervidda National Park, which is a popular place for hiking. In fact, there’s even a hiking trail where you can follow the route the resistance members took when they damaged the Vemork facility. The Hardangervidda National Park Centre contains maps and useful information if you want to set off on a hike. There’s also a cafe and small museum here.

    Visit their website here: http://www.hardangerviddanasjonalparksenter.no

    Vinje Municipality

    Vinje municipality is a remote municipality with about 1.2 inhabitants per square kilometre. The municipality is located at the northern end of Telemark and extends into the Hardangervidda National Park.

    Rauland Church

    Historic Site

    Rauland Church is a historic church site. In pre-Christian times, the site where the church is today was probably a pagan worshipping site. After the Christianisation of Norway, the site was replaced with a stave church. The stave church stood until 1801, when it was demolished to make way for the present church. Several famous people from Telemark are buried at the church, including Myllarguten (see below).

    Several elements of the old stave church are in the building, such as two cast iron crucifixes from the 12th century, the church bell, collection box, baptismal dish and several candlesticks.

    To get there, follows signs from Krossen. The church is 5.5km from the town on the Fv362 towards Haukeli.

    Åmot

    Village

    Åmot is a small town with a population of 673. The word “Åmot” refers to two rivers meeting and is a common placename in Norway. Åmot is roughly halfway on the E134, so it is a popular stop with truck drivers and therefore also an important traffic hub.

    Nesland Church

    Historic Site

    Nesland Church is a small wooden church from 1847 built in the Empire style. The old Nesland church was a stave church and it’s not sure when the church was built. In the Middle Ages, Nesland Church must’ve been a vigil church, where the congregation gathered every Midsummer night to keep vigil. In the 19th century, the church had become too small for the congregation, so a new church was built. This is common for almost all churches in Norway; in the 19th century a law was passed that a church must fit at least 30% of the congregation. Because of that, most stave churches were too small and therefore torn down.

    Tokke Municipality

    The municipality is located at the end of the Telemark Canal and the administrative centre is the end point for the scenic canal cruise.

    Tokke has long traditions of exporting brynestone all the way back to the Viking Age. The stone is a sharpening stone. The stones from Tokke have been discovered in archaeological digs in many places in Northern Europe, including Iceland, Poland and England. Today the main industries are agriculture and forestry.

    There used to be bears in the area, which is why the coat-of-arms is of a bear. Bears also feature in many local legends and stories from Tokke.

    Dalen

    Dalen is a short detour off the Fv38 but well worth visiting. Dalen is a small town located on the westernmost endpoint of the Telemark Canal. The Telemark Canal goes all the way to Skien on the coast of Norway – originally the canal was used for industry, but today it is more popular with tourists. When the canal was completed, it was referred to as the ‘eighth wonder’. Ferries were able to link Telemark with Oslo through the canal and then Oslofjord.

    Dalen Hotel is a famous historic hotel; it is one of the best preserved hotels from the 1800s. The hotel was built with the opening of the Telemark Canal in 1892. When it opened, it became popular with European royals.During the occupation, it was a resort for German officers. Most of the interior was stripped and sold for parts. The building fell into disrepair.

    After the war, the building was bought by singer and evangelist Aage Samuelsen. The hotel got a lot of attention and was restored in the 1980s. The hotel reopened in 1992. In 2000, the hotel won the Europa Nostra award for outstanding conservation. The architecture is a mix of Swiss chalet with national romanticism and Dragestil, a type of Norwegian architecture inspired by Viking and medieval art.

    Eidsborg Stave Church

    Historic Site/Museum

    Eidsborg Stave Church is one of the 28 remaining stave churches in Norway. Built some time between 1250 and 1300, the church stands out for being one of the smallest stave churches. Additionally, it is an important pilgrimage church that gave way to its own cult in the old times! Eidsborg Stave Church is located on the hill above the village of Dalen, and today is part of the Vest Telemark Museum. A visit to the church also includes a look at the historic farm buildings from the region.

    To get here, continue through Dalen and up the switchback road. Eidsborg Stave Church is 6km out of Dalen and has the address Museumsvegen 9, 3891 Høydalsmo

    Skafså Church

    Historic Site

    Skafså Church is from 1839 and is known for its interior. The church used to have a crucifix, but the crucifix is now in a museum to preserve it. The crucifix shows the crucified Jesus with a king’s crown, i.e. not the usual crown of thorns. In the 1950s the church was restored. At the front of the choir are bridal chairs modelled after an old Renaissance chair from the former stave church, which was probably demolished in 1826 because it had fallen into disrepair.

    Åmsdals Verk

    Village

    Åmdals Verk is a small village that grew up around the mining activities of Åmdals Verk Gruver, or the mines. The history of copper mines in Åmdal goes back to 1540, when King Christian III of Denmark/Norway sent German miners to Telemark to start mining. The first quarrywas called Moisesberg. The ore tunnels were founded in 1689. The copper mines have a complicated history with operations, shutdowns, and problematic owner.s The miners were the heart in an urbanised mountain village where the minter’s everyday life dependned on good ore deposits and political conditions outside Europe.

    The museum building is located in a reconstruction of the old sjeide house.

    The museum is called Åmdals Verk Gruver and has the address Åmdalsvegen 42A, 3882 Åmdals Verk and is located a few minutes out of town off the Fv38. Check the website for up-to-date opening hours: http://www.vtm.no

    Kvitseid Municipality

    Kviteseid is a municipality in the upper part of Telemark. The municipality has existed since the Middle Ages and was an important administrative centre in Telemark. Kviteseid was originally an agricultural community without any real urban development. The most important industries here are still agriculture and forestry, though tourism is on the rise.

    Kviteseid is known for its distinctive cultural traditions, including folk music, arts and crafts, food and architecture. The dialect in Kviteseid is one of the Norwegian dialects that has preserved the most features from Norse and is close to the most conservative form of nynorsk.

    Vrådal Church

    Historic Site

    Vrådal Church is a long church from 1886 that has space for 250 places. The pulpit, altar, baptismal font, brass candlesticks, altar foot and other furniture from the old church are in the current church. The previous church was from 1686 and was demolished when the new church was completed. There was likely a stave church here before then what would’ve been similar to Eidsborg Stave Church. The church from 1686 was likely the first octagonal church in Norway.

    The church is located on the westbound side of the highway with the address Vråliosvegen 461, 3853 Vrådal

    Drangedal Municipality

    Drangedal municipality is largely a forest municipality with the industry centered around land and forestry. The municipality is seeing a declining population. Despite that, Drangedal is a known area for skiing and is home to the largest ski resort in Telemark called Gautefall. Drangedal has a large number of cabins because of the ski opportunities and proximity to larger cities. Drangedal was also one of the first municipalities to get full broadband coverage.

    Prestestranda

    Village

    Prestestranda is the administrative centre and has a population of 1,300 people. The site was developed after the railway station was laid there when the Sørlandsbanen from Bø to Kragerø opened in 1927.

    The Drangedal Bygdetun is an open-air museum with 19 historic buildings, most of which were gifts from the villagers. Drangedal Church is from 1773.

    Kragerø Municipality

    Kragerø municipality is a coastal community named after the town of the same name. In total, there are 495 island, islets and reefs and 4,000 holiday homes here, making Kragerø a popular summer destination for Norwegians. In fact, Kragerø was even referred to as “the peal among coastal towns” by Edvard Munch. More will be covered in the section about Kragerø town.

    Kragerø

    Kragerø is a well-known holiday destination for Norwegians. Located at the end of a peninsula between the Kilsfjorden and Hellefjorden, the town grew as an important harbour from the 16th century onwards. Timber was shipped from the forests Telemark out of Kragerø and onwards to Europe. The town’s business was characterised by timber exports, shipping and shipbuilding from then until the First World War, and at one point Kragerø was one of Norway’s largest shipping towns.

    Continue the drive

    Numedal Valley

    The Numedal Valley will take you from Kongsberg up to the mountains of Western Norway. 

    Previous Drive

    Egersund to Dalen

    This drive goes from the southern cost up to the mountains. 

    This drive is part of the multi-day series “Ultimate Norway”. You can read about the whole drive below. 

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

    Download this guide to have it as a PDF ready to go for your road-trip!

    All downloadable guides come with an interactive Google Map for easier navigation. 

  • Drive it Yourself: Egersund to Dalen

    Drive it Yourself: Egersund to Dalen

    Looking for an alternative road to the mountains, bypassing the tourists, highways and seeing the secret beauty of Norway? This drive is perfect. I know, the Egersund to Dalen drive is not the most commonly suggested route in Norway, but it is worth the consideration. Both towns are very cute and scenic with plenty to do, and they are separated by a beautiful valley and mountain range that you’ll pass.
    On this page, you’ll find practical info outlining what you’ll see between the two towns, plus where you can stay and what you can do. Be sure to watch my own drive, where I’ve put together a timelapse with information. 
    If you have done this drive, or have any questions for me, let me know in the comments. 

    In this article...

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    The drive: Egersund to Dalen

    Egersund

    Egersund is a charming small town on the south coast of Norway. It has lots of wonderful shops and cafes, making it a perfect place to stop on your road-trip. 

    Trollpiken

    Rock Formation

    Trollpikken is a unique and strange rock formation in Norway. In the last few years, it has gained popularity due to its, well, shape. ‘Pikk’ is a relatively new word in Norway that translates to ‘dick’, and as you can see in the image, the name describes what locals have come to recognise the formation as.
    Trollpikken made the news in 2017, when it was vandalised and severed off using power tools. The locals were saddened by this and a crowdfunding campaign raised an incredible 226,000 NOK and within two weeks the rock was reattached (watch the video on the left!). One person was arrested for vandalism.
    Since this incident, there was more effort made in promoting Trollpikken. It’s got its own website now (click here), which goes over the history, folklore, and practical info of the site. There are road signs leading to the large carpark, and the walk to the monument is well marked with modern signs. The name is also recent; it’s only from 2017.
    For those interested in geology, the rock is anorthosite. This is a very rare type of rock that’s found on the south-western coast of Norway and the moon. Yes, the moon! When astronauts were training for going to the moon, they came here to practice collecting rock samples. Trollpikken is 12m (39ft) high.
    It is relatively easy to hike to Trollpikken, and the info can be found here: https://ut.no/turforslag/1113153/trollpikken

    Helleland

    Village

    Helleland is a small village just outside Egersund. The language used here is nynorsk rather than the commonly used bokmål. The Sørlandet train connection between Oslo and Stavanger runs through (and stops at) Helleland.
    Helleland Church is from 1832. It is built in wood and has seats for 500. The architect was Hans Linstow, who also designed the Royal Palace and Karl Johans gate in Oslo.
    In Helleland, there are memorials dedicated to the British aircraft which crashed during the occupation of Norway by Nazi Germany in connection with the Operation Freshman sabotage attempt, part of an action that was aimed at the Vemork hydroelectric plant, site of heavy water production. Furthermore, there is a cave in the forest which was used as a hiding place during World War II. People who had kept illegal radio equipment hid in this cave, and the Germans never discovered them.
    You’ll find a grocery store in Helleland (Coop). 

     

    Terland Klopp

    Bridge

    Terland Klopp was built around 1800 as a stone slab bridge. With 21 runs and 60 metres, it is considered the largest in the Nordic region of this type. The bridge crosses the river Gyaåna, which we are following on this road. The valley we are in is called the Gyadalen Valley.
    Terland Klopp has not been in use since 1977; today it is a listed monument. It is considered the best-preserved bridge of this kind. 

    Agder County

    We now cross over into Agder kommune. Originally, Agder was a medieval petty kingdom that governed itself until Norway was unified into one Kingdom. The name Agder was not used between 1662 and 1919; it was reinstated after the counties Aust-Agder (East Adger) and Vest-Adger (West Adger) were established. Since 2020, those two counties were merged into one: Adger. 

    Sirdal Municipality

    Tonstad

    Village

    Welcome to Tonstad! The name means “Tone’s Farm” and is a typical small town name; towns were often built around farmsteads where the church was located. The church here is Tonstad Church and it’s from 1852. It seats 300.
    The town has a large hydroelectric power station and a large ski centre. In fact, Tonstad has one of Norway’s most modern biathlon facilities, and it is known for producing many highly regarded biathletes. The local high school uses the facility for training.
    Tonstad is located on the northern end of the Sirdal Lake. In July, the boat ‘Snorre’ does tours of the lake every Wednesday. A guide on board tells you the stories and local legends, as well as some tales of Vikings from the Norse Sagas. 
     At Tonstad you’ll find road signs leading to Kjerag, a famous natural monument and hiking trail.

    Dorgefossen

    Waterfall

    Dorgefossen is a regulated waterfall, though it is more like a gorge. Due to the water regulations, the waterfall is much smaller than it used to be.
    An old legend from Sirdal tells that death row inmates got one last chance to save their lives by jumping over Dorgefoss. If they managed to do so, they would be free. If they did not succeed, the fall of the waterfall and the rapids fulfilled the death sentence.
    It is possible to swim in the river, but without warning water can be released from the pond, making the water colder than normal.
    By the road, there is a picnic area with restrooms and information boards. The road we drive over goes over the waterfall via the Dorge Bridge. The bridge is from 1919.

    Sinnes

    Village

    Sinnes is a small village located in the upper part of the Sirdal valley. There are two ski centres here: Ålsheia and Tjørhomfjellet. Together, they make the largest alpine facility in southwestern Norway.
    Several alpine and cross-country competitions are held in the area. The largest one is Sesilåmi, which is a 52km long ski run.
    Sinnes is a popular cabin area for people from Stavanger, Sandnes and Jaeren.

    Setesdalsheiene

    Mountains

    The mountains to the north are called Setesdalsheiene. Just north of them is the Hardangervidda plateau, while the Ryfylke mountains lie to the west. The highest point is 1,300m (4,300ft). Wild reindeer herds live here.

    Håhellervatn

    Lake

    The lake on our right is Håhellervatn. The total walking distance around the lake is 6km (4 mi).  
    On the east side is a cave called Håhelleren. It has a lot of stories associated with it. After the Napoleonic Wars, two families moved to the area. They first settled in a fisherman’s hut, and then built a home. Their main job was to keep the road clear and shelter road users in bad weather. They were unable to grow grain on the site, but they did try to grow potatoes, though without luck. After living here for 26 years, they realised it was not such a great place to live and they moved to Sirdal. After their house was torn down, road users used the cave for shelter if need be. Today there is a tourist cabin on the sight, and up to 16 adults can take accommodation in the cave.

    Valle Municipality

    Valle
    town

    Valle is the first major town we’ll pass after crossing the mountains, making it a good place to stop.  We have now entered the traditional district of Setesdal; it’s a valley (dal) that up until recently was very isolated. The name Valle comes from the farm where the church was built. There used to be a stave church on the site called Hylestad stave church; sadly it was torn down in the 19th century to make way for a new church. Fortunately, the portal carvings were saved and are on display at the Historic Museum in Oslo. They illustrate the legend of Sigurd Favnesbane (Sigurd the Dragon Slayer), who is described in the Prose Edda and Beowulf saga. An important historic site is Rygnestadtunet, an old farm. It was built by Vonde-Åsmund (Asmund the Evil) in the mid-1500s and has been well-preserved. Today it is an open air museum, where the interiors reflect the period around 1919. Around the farm, grave findings indicate that the site was settled as early as 900AD.  As mentioned above, Valle was incredibly isolated. To get out via the north, travellers had to follow the river and take a path on a torturous steep cliff face. This was the only way out until the 1870s. Today, the European Highway 9 (E9) crosses through the valley and under the torturous mountain thanks to a nice tunnel.  Valle is known for its ancient silver smitheries. Today, the local high school specialises in silversmith and goldsmith training. Students from all over Norway and abroad come here to train to become jewellers.

    Sylvartun Museum

    Museum

    Sylvartun was the central silversmith and folk music arena in Setesdal valley. Exhibitions in the museum focus on musical instruments and the visualisation of music and dance traditions in the valley.
    Visitor information can be found here. 

    Store Bjørnevatn

    Lake

    We pass a large lake called Store Bjørnevatn. It’s about 15km (9 mi) north of Valle. The elevation is 801m (2,628 ft) above sea level. 

    Skafså

    Town

    Skafså is a small town known for its mountain farm Grimdalen. Today it’s a museum with farm buildings from the time of barter economy in the 17th century.
    Famous sculptor Anne Grimdalen is from here, and there’s a gallery with 300 of her sculptures here.
    Skafså Church is from 1839. There used to be a medieval crucifix standing outside the church; this is now at the Vest-Telemark Museum.

    Dalen

    This drive ends in Dalen, a small town located on the westernmost endpoint of the Telemark Canal. The Telemark Canal goes all the way to Skien on the coast of Norway – originally the canal was used for industry, but today it is more popular with tourists.
    When the canal was completed, it was referred to as the ‘eighth wonder’. Ferries were able to link Telemark with Oslo through the canal and then Oslofjord.
    Dalen Hotel is a famous historic hotel; it is one of the best preserved hotels from the 1800s. The hotel was built with the opening of the Telemark Canal in 1892. When it opened, it became popular with European royals.
    During the occupation, it was a resort for German officers. Most of the interior was stripped and sold for parts. The building fell into disrepair.
    After the war, the building was bought by singer and evangelist Aage Samuelsen. The hotel got a lot of attention and was restored in the 1980s. The hotel reopened in 1992. In 2000, the hotel won the Europa Nostra award for outstanding conservation.
    The architecture is a mix of Swiss chalet with national romanticism and Dragestil, a type of Norwegian architecture inspired by Viking and medieval art.
    A night at the hotel starts at 3,000 NOK, with rooms going up to 8,300 NOK.

    Continue the drive

    Telemark

    Take the scenic drive through Telemark from Dalen to Kongsberg.

    Previous Drive

    Jaeren Tourist Road

    Travel down the southern coast on this scenic, beachy road. 

    This drive is part of the multi-day series “Ultimate Norway”. You can read about the whole drive below. 

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Jæren Tourist Road

    Drive it Yourself: Jæren Tourist Road

    Jæren is a traditional district in Rogaland county, south of Stavanger. The landscape characterises the area; Jæren is the largest flat lowland area in Norway. Unlike most of Norway, the coast here is flat with no islands and very sandy beaches. The word ‘Jæren’ (almost pronounced like Yeah-en if you make ‘Yeah’ very nasally) is from the Old Norse Jaðarr, which means ‘edge’ or ‘brim’. It’s a common word found in Norway; around 30 farms have this name. It refers to the coastline. Until the 20th century, Jæren was spelled ‘Jaederen’, which is Danish. You can still see this word in some places.

    This drive is part of our ultimate Norwegian road-trip. Click the button below to view the whole drive. 

    In this article...

    Download this Guide

    All of our guides can be downloaded via our online store. 

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

    Online Guide

    Downloadable Guide

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    The Drive: Jæren Tourist Road

    Sola Strand Hotel

    Hotel

    Sola Strand Hotel is located just outside Stavanger city centre, close to the airport and Sola Beach. Alternatively, you could start at Sola Ruin Church or Domsteinane, mentioned below. If you are staying in Stavanger, I recommend stopping by ‘Swords in the Rock’ before you leave. The video above begins at Sola Strand Hotel and stops at Domsteinane first. 

    The Sola Strand Hotel is a great hotel to stay at – it’s right on the beach, has all the facilities of a resort, and is the starting point of this drive!

    Domsteinane

    Historic Site

    Domsteinane is a unique place in Norway. It’s often nicknamed ‘Norway’s Stonehenge’ because of the unknown status of why the rocks are laid out this way.

    Read my separate guide to Domsteinane below. 

    Detour: Ølberg Camp

    WWII Site

    Ølberg Camp (Ølberg Leir) is a disused military camp primarily for the storage of ammunition. The camp was established by occupying German forces in 1940 in connection with their military activity at Sola. Sola Airport was a civilian airport, but under German occupation it had important military use. For security reasons, they placed the aircraft ammunition at a separate camp away from the airport. This is the Ølberg Camp.  The camp consists of ammunition houses, bomb shelters, and storage sheds. The ammunition houses are simple timber buildings. The bomb shelters are between these structures. Nearly half the buildings are still standing. Moreover, the original road structure is also im place.  After the war ended in 1945, the Norwegian Armed Forces took over the camp. They further used and developed the camp until 2003, when it closed. In 2007, it was sold to the Sola Municipality. The National Heritage Board is preserving 23 buildings and the surrounding pine forest, the only forested area in Jaeren.

    Note – it is not visible from the road. 

    You can view images by clicking here and here. 

    Vigdel Fortress

    WWII Site

    Vigdel Fort is a coastal fort that was actively in use until 2007. The fort is leftover from the German occupation. It was one of the Germans’ methods of protecting Sola Airport from attacks from the sea.  There was one such attack that influenced their decision to fortify the coast. On the 17th of April 1940, the British attempted to fire at Sola Airport from the sea. After several hours of intense gunfire, the British cruiser HMS Suffolk and several cruisers were forced to retreat. The German bombers had been no match for them. The British had conducted the attack in an attempt to recapture Trondheim from the Germans and stall the Germans’ advancement in Norway. After the battle, the English scrapped plans for a similar attack on Trondheim.  Vigdel Fort was built to prevent an attack like this from happening again. Most important to them was their air force, and it was one of the key strategies for the occupation. The fort was to protect the airforce at Sola Airport. However, the English never returned to attack Sola Airport by ship. Moreover, the fort was never really used. It was too far from the airport to be of any use during air raids. After the war, the Norwegian Army used Vigdel Fort as a training facility. Since it has fallen out of use, the site has been transformed into a popular hiking area.

    Images can be seen here.

    Hellestø Beach

    Beach

    Hellestø Beach is a beautiful place to go for a walk. It’s a sandy beach surrounded by rocky hills. The parking place is free, and it’s a short walk to get to the beach. There are no facilities here.

    TS Museum

    Museum

    The TS Museum in Stenebyen (Tjelta) has a unique collection of old tractors, cars, mortorbikes and trucks. In total, there are over 180 vehicles. All of them are still operating. 

    Visitor information can be found at their website (click here). 

    Bore Church

    Historic Church

    The earliest mention of Bore Church is in 1322, but the church was not new at that time. It’s likely that Bore Church was built as a stave church around the end of the 12th century. Only the baptismal font is preserved from the original church. The stave church was torn down in 1640 to make way for a more modern church. In 1895, the church and cemetery was rebuilt 1.5km (0.9 miles) to the northeast. After this church was finished, the old church was torn down.

    Bore Beach

    Beach

    Bore Beach is located just north of Orre Beach, the longest beach in Norway. Bore is a great beach for swimmers and surfers; when we visited, we got to see a surf school heading out!

    In the carpark you’ll find toilets and showers.

    Orre Beach

    Beach

    At 5km (3 miles), Orre Beach is the longest beach in Norway. With its white sand and good swimming or surfing conditions, it will make you think you are in a warm country. However, once you get in the water, you’ll be reminded that you are actually in Norway.

    Orre Beach is often mentioned among the best beaches in the world when it comes to its efforts to maintain a clean and preserved environment.

    Close to the beach is the Friluftshuset. This building has an information centre about outdoor life and nature conservation. There is also a cultural centre with concerts and art exhibitions. A cafe serves food and drink, and there are restrooms here. It’s open daily in summer and on weekends the rest of the year, between 11am and 4pm. 

    Orre Old Church

    Historic Church

    Orre Old Church is the oldest building in the area. You can read my guide to Orre Old Church below. 

    Hå Gamle Prestgård

    Historic Site

    We didn’t stop here on our drive because the facility was closed, but you certainly can visit on your own drive. 

    Hå Gamle Prestgård is a contemporary art gallery and local cultural history museum located inside an old vicarage. Rotating exhibitions highlight Norwegian and international contemporary artists. There is a permanent archaeological exhibition with ancient objects from the area.

    The vicarage is from 1637 or earlier, and the oldest building is from 1787. The facility has undergone many renovations and has been listed for protection since 1920.

    There are two outbuildings with showrooms. In the main house is the café. If you walk around the site, you’ll see remains of settlements from the Stone Age (8200 years old) and old burial grounds from the migration period.

    Obrestad Lighthouse

    Lighthouse

    Orre Old Church is the oldest building in the area. You can read my guide to Orre Old Church below. 

    Varhaug Old Cemetery

    Historic Site

    Varhaug Old Cemetery is an ancient site located on the old Kongevegen road. 

    Kvassheim Lighthouse

    Lighthouse

    Kvassheim Lighthouse is a historic lighthouse. 

    Hå Municipality

    Hitler's Teeth in Brusand

    WWII site

    Brusand is a small village with a population of 430. It is known for its beach, which has sandy dunes. Also, the largest carrot packing plant is located here!

    Brusand is also known for its Hitler Teeth, which are a series of concrete blocks set up alongside the highway. These are anti-tank obstacles set up by Germans in World War II.

    They were placed here by prisoners of war and forced labour workers. The Germans were worried an Allied invasion would come by sea, so they had these concrete blocks built to delay tanks advancing towards settlements. However, no Allied invasion ever came. 

    The prisoners sabotaged the teeth by mixing in more sand than concrete, making them weaker. They used to be on the whole coast, but this is one of the few spots that still has them.

    Magma Geopark

    Natural Attraction

    Shortly before Egersund is the Magma Geopark, an area with such a unique geology that it has been recognised by UNESCO. Here is also the world’s only sandy beach consisting of moon stone.

    The rock here is the same as the one found on the moon: Anorthosite. Astronauts have even visited the area to prepare for taking rock samples on the moon.

    Egersund

    Egersund is a charming small town on the south coast of Norway. It has lots of wonderful shops and cafes, making it a perfect place to stop on your road-trip. 

    Continue the drive

    Egersund to Dalen

    Cross the mountains over to Dalen in Telemark. 

    Previous Drive

    Ryfylke Tourist Road

    Take the drive from Odda to Stavanger via the traditional region of Ryfylke. 

    This drive is part of the multi-day series “Ultimate Norway”. You can read about the whole drive below. 

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!