Emma

Hey! My name is Emma. I'm from Australia but have lived in Bergen, Norway, for the last eight years. I work as a local guide and tour leader for all over Northern Europe. The Hidden North is an online travel guide I have made to help you plan your own visit here.

  • Stockholm, Sweden, Walking Guides

    A Historic Walk around Gamla Stan in Stockholm

    A Historic Walk around Gamla Stan in Stockholm

    Welcome to my Gamla Stan self-guided walking tour. Gamla Stan is one of the best-preserved old towns in Europe. Located on a small island, the town grew in the 12th century as the earliest form of Stockholm. The architecture here is distinctly North German; after all, the German Hanseatic League played an important role in the development of Gamla Stan. 

    Life here must’ve been interesting. The island was very densely populated, which is why the streets are so narrow. Waste and garbage was poured into the alleys, and there aren’t many traces left of sophisticated sewers that have been found in other old towns like Bergen. Most likely the slopes in Gamla Stan did the job. 

    The island was suited for a settlement because it was easy to defend. The island is also at the inlet of Lake Malaren, a lake important for trade in the Baltic. 

    The name Gamla Stan is from the 20th century when Stockholm had expanded away from the island. Before then, it was simply called ‘sjalva staden’ (the city itself). 

    From the mid-19th century to the mid-20th century, Gamla Stan was considered a slum and the buildings were in disrepair. 

    In the last fifty years interest in Gamla Stan has renewed. Archaeological excavations show that the oldest streets are three metres below the present ones. The oldest streets are covered with wood; stone paving didn’t come until the 14th century. 

    This self-guided walk will take you into the historic alleys and past some of the oldest buildings in the city. This is a history walk with a focus on what Gamla Stan would’ve been like in its heyday. 

    Downloadable Version of This Guide

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided walks on our online store. 

    View at the Store

    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the city
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos

    In this article...

    Stockholm Travel Guide
    Sweden Travel Guide

    The Walking Route

    Riddarholmskyrkan

    The church dates back to the 13th century and is today one of the oldest buildings in Stockholm. It was originally built as a grey-friars monastery but after the Reformation it was converted into a church. 

    Riddarholmen Church has been used as a funeral and memorial church since 1807 and is known for being the final resting place of many Swedish Royal Family members. Several chapels here are dedicated to various Swedish kings. 

    Bondeska Palatset

    This is the most prominent building from the Swedish Empire (1611-1718). It was built in 1662 as a private residence for the Lord Treasurer, Gustaf Bonde. In the 18th century it accommodated the Stockholm Court house, and since 1949 it has had the Swedish Supreme Court.

    The style is based on the French Baroque and Renaissance prototypes common in the 17th century. 

    Vasterlånggatan

    This is the main thoroughfare and tourist street in Gamla Stan, and as such it is the main tourist street in Gamla Stan. I find that it lacks a lot of the charm of the area, so we’ll try and avoid it. 

    Prastgatan

    The name, “Priest Street”, comes from the fact that it was the residences of three chaplains and a bell ringer during the 16th century. The residences were demolished in 1708 to make room for the parsonage that is still there today.

    The northern part of the street was known as Helvetesgränd, or the “Alley of Hell”, just like the surrounding area north and west of the cathedral Storkyrkan was referred to as Helvetet (Hell). The areas north of the church were often referred to as ‘the northern side of the damned’ and therefore a place of disgrace suitable for suicides and criminals.

    Those who committed suicide as well as criminals were buried in this area. The towns executioner also lived here. The executioner was usually a person sentenced to death who was allowed to live in return for acting as an executioner. He also had the towns badge burned on him and his ears were cut off so he couldn’t evade his duties.

    The street has been featured in an Ingmar Bergman film. 

    Kakbrinken

    Here we will see a runestone built into the wall of a shop. The stone dates from the Iron Age but historians don’t know exactly how old it is or why it is in a wall in Stockholm. Runestones were usually made to memorialise the dead, and this one says “Torsten and Frogunn had this stone erected after their son”

    The stone was probably brought to Stockholm to be used as a building material, from where it is not known. As the female name Frogunn is known as a pagan name, the stone is believed to be from around 1000, the stone thus 200 years older than the city.

    A laser range scanner in 2002 showed variations in stroke patterns in the grooves of the stone, and that the stone was probably carved by a master builder and apprentice.

    Tyska Brinken

    The name means ‘German Slope’ but is not the original name of the area. The street is first mentioned in history as the ‘water slope’ and later was the ‘shoemakers slope’.

    The current form of the name refers to the German church and German parish who lived in the area. The German influence on Stockholm was considerable during the Middle Ages – half of the population and the members of the City Council were German, the Hanseatic League dominated trade, the wealthiest burghers were Germans, and the German language and culture was everywhere.

    Archaeological excavations in the area in 1993 exposed the remains of the old city wall and traces of what looks like a defensive tower from the 14th century.

    Number 20-22 is a rococo building called “Building of the German Church”. It was created in 1869 when three medieval buildings were merged

    Tyska Kyrkan

    The name means ‘The German Church’ and refers to the German congregation. 

    Back in the Middle Ages it served the local German community and was built in honour of Saint Gertrude, the patron saint of travellers. The German guild of St. Gertrude was founded on the location for the present church in the 14th century. The guild was created by German merchants. They were permitted to build their own church under King Gustav Vasa in 1558. During the 17th century, the church became a major epicentre for church music in Swedish. 

    By 1800 the German congregation had dwindled to 113 people. Today it is under the Church of Sweden as a non-territorial parish. There are 2000 members of the church and Services are held every Sunday at 11am.

    The church is built in a baroque style brick structure with a copper covered spire and neo-gothic gargoyles perched from the top. The brick steeple and copper spire was completed in 1878 after a fire destroyed the previous tower. There are neogothic gargoyles featuring grotesque animals, a very unusual feature in Swedish architectural history. Gargoyles are uncommon in Scandinavia. 

    On the Northern Gate is a gilded image of a patron saint and the exhortation “fear god! Honour the King!”

    Tyska Brunnsplan

    Tyska Brunnsplan (literally ‘German Well Square’) is another name that related to the importance of the Germans in Gamla Stan. The well used to be much larger, but during the latter part of the 18th century, the city’s fire department changed the square so it would be a turning space for horse-drawn vehicles. The goal was to prevent people causing accidents that would result in fire. Architect Erik Palmstedt was given the job of redoing the square, and he was inspired by Neoclassical architecture. However, he was restricted by the Medieval landscape, and this resulted in the present very small little well.

    The first synagogue in Stockholm was founded on the square’s eastern side in the 19th century and is today a Jewish Museum.

    The current location of the well is flanked by two chestnut trees. The location was once the site of a pharmacy called Apotheket Svan, or the Swan Pharmacy. Svartmangatan number 18 still has a sign for the pharmacy.

    Tyska Stallplan

    Yes, another reference to the Germans! The name directly means “German Stable Square”, referring to the stables that were here in the 18th and 19th centuries. However, the square used to be the site of the Blackfriars Monastery and excavation have unveiled the remains of the monastery walls under the present street. You’ll see cobblestone on the ground shaped differently; this is supposed to show where the monastery was.

    Here we’ll see a granite sculpture by Ivar Johnsson from 1956 of a young man mounting a horse.

    Marten Trotzigs Gard

    This is the narrowest street in Stockholm. It’s 90cm (36 inches) wide at its narrowest point and as the buildings tilt with age, it’s getting incrementally narrower each year. It’s also the only place in Stockholm’s old town where you will see graffiti.

    Mårten Trotzigs gränd, or Mårten Trotzigs Alley, is the only preserved staircase alley in Gamla Stan.

    The name isn’t very old; it was named in 1949 after Marten Traubtzig (Swedishised to Mårten Trotzig), who was born in Germany in 1559. It’s not known why he came to Stockholm, but it was likely for trading. He traded in iron and copper and eventually became a Swedish citizen. In 1597 he bought a small house on the eastern part of the alley and then in 1599 he bought another house in the alley. During his life, he became perhaps the richest merchant and citizen in Stockholm and had many children.

    On 21 March 1617, while visiting his mine, he died. He was likely robbed and murdered, but it has not been confirmed. His oldest son, Johan, takes over the properties and business and became known as Johan the Rich. His children sold the properties in 1679.

    The alley had various names after the Trotzigs, but all the names referred back to them (for example, Trotz gränd). When it got its current name in 1949 it is the first time the word ‘Mårten’ is used on the street name. it was never known if ‘Trotzig’ was referring to Mårten or Johan.

    The narrowest point is 90cm / 35 inches.

    Järntorget

    Järntorget (literally “Iron Square”) is a historic square in Stockholm. The square is the second-oldest square in Stockholm after Gamla Stan. The square was established around 1300 and was the city’s most important trading centre for centuries. The square was originally called Korntorget (Grain Squre) but got the name Järntorget in 1489.

    Iron trade surpassed corn trade in terms of importance. Controlling and putting a control on trade was an important income for the city and the king, and the city’s official scales were located here on the square. Besides iron, Sweden exported copper, silver, hide, fur, salmon and butter. Sweden imported salt, broadcloth, beer, wine, and luxury items such as spice, glass, and ceramics.

    During the Middle Ages, the area was dominated by German merchants, though there were also people from the British Isles, France and the Netherlands trading here.

    In the 17th century the square underwent a major transformation. Numerous taverns were in the square and the official scales were moved to Sodermalm. Wealthy people began to move in and built taller and more prestigious buildings. Having a property here was the best you could have as a merchant. The development was further promoted by the construction of Södra Bankohuset, the national bank building on number 84 in 1680. This was Sweden’s and the world’s first national bank.

    Sundbergs Konditori, the oldest confectioners shop in town, on number 83, was founded in 1785.   

    You will see a pump in the middle of the square. There has never been a functional pump here; this pump was gifted to the city from the Riksbank (which is in the square) in 1827. During the first 100 years the pump worked, but today it is just a work of art.

    The statue by the bank building is Evert Taube standing waiting for his ordered taxi, which is why he has pushed his glasses up on his forehead.

    Österlånggatan

    Österlånggatan (literally “Eastern Long Street”) is similar to Västerlånggatan, which we passed earlier in our walk. The street used to pass by the city walls on the eastern side of the island. However, it is much quieter than Västerlånggatan because it was not considered as important as Västerlånggatan. Compared to all the tourist shops you see on the west, Österlånggatan has boutique shops and nice restaurants.

    Archaeological excavations have unveiled the original land around three metres below the pavement. The shoreline has been gradually pushed east by land fillings of gravel and rubbish. Some noble families lived here, but Österlånggatan was rather associated with taverns. Of all these taverns, only Den Gyldene Freden (The Golden Peace) remains. However, the filth, stench, fights and misery are gone.

    For many centuries this was one of the main thoroughfares through Stockholm. Back in the 1300s the street used to reach outside the city walls and was filled with woodwork and blacksmith workshops supporting the local shipping industry. The shoreline was eventually pushed eastward by land fillings of gravel and rubbish, so by the 14th century the street had become the long street east of the wall (Swedish name), far from the water.

    The shipping trade gradually disappeared and by the early 20th century virtually everything was gone.

    St. George and the Dragon

    This statue depicts Saint George slaying a dragon. The legend of Saint George dates to the crusades. Saint George is said to have saved an entire village in Libya from a dragon. Provided they converted to Christianity first, of course. The statue is a replica – the original wooden version is in Storkyrkan church.

    Kopmangatan

    Historic street comprised of two slipes. Back in the Middle Ages, up to 1520, the area used to be a fish market – hence the name. One of the city’s medieval gates, The Merchants Gate, was found on the eastern end of this street until it was demolished in 1685.

    Stortorget

    This is the main square in Gamla Stan. The medieval square is 0.5m below the present cobbles. Traces of poles indicate that the area had simple sheds in the 13th century. Traces of an older building are believed to date to 1024

    The square started as a junction in which the tracks that cross-crossed the island converged. By 1400 the city had 6,000 inhabitants and stone buildings were built around the square.

    Stortorget 3-5

    Number 3 (the blue-ish one) was built by merchant Hans Bremer in the 1640s. Still features the original cross vaults and German inscription on the entrance hall. Today the building is known as the “Grill House” after the goldsmith Antoni Grill, who immigrated from Amsterdam to Sweden in 1659. He bought the building in 1681 and it remained in the family for over 100 years. The clove-shaped gables were added in 1718 together with the blue colour and rococo portal

    Number 5 (the yellow one) is a second hand shop. There are painted joists from the 1640s displaying animals, flowers and fruits. The ceiling inside is one of the few accessible to the public.

    Stortorget 18-20

    These are the most famous ones on Stortorget. They merged in the 17th century. Named after Johan Eberhard Schantz, the secretary of Charles X Gustavus who added the stepped gable and grand portal on the left building.

    The 82 white stones on number 20 are said to symbolise the heads decapitated by the Danish king in 1520.

    The house was built no later than 1479, when it appears in historic records

    Stortorget 14-16

    Named after Aesculapius, the son of Apollo and the demigod of medicine, which is reflected in the presence of the “Raven Pharmacy” at this address for more 300 years. The pharmacy is now still active a block away.

    Nobel Prize Museum

    The museum opened in the spring of 2001, marking the centenary of the Noble Prize. Its permanent display includes many artefacts donated by the laureates, presented together with their personal life stories, with the Nobel Laureates of 1901 and continuing to the present day, including prominent individuals such as Marie Curie, Nelson Mandela and Winston Churchill.

    Stockholm Travel Guide
    Sweden Travel Guide
  • Copenhagen, Denmark, Walking Guides

    A Self-Guided Walk Between Rosenborg Castle and the Round Tower

    A Self-Guided Walk Between Rosenborg Castle and the Round Tower

    The walk between Rosenborg Castle and the Round Tower is very short – it’ll take you about 15 minutes – but I think the walk is lovely. You get to pass through the King’s Garden, see some old 18th century merchant houses, and pass the Trinity Church. This is also a route you’ll likely do when you’re in Copenhagen; both points are major attractions in the city.

    In the future I’ll write detailed overviews of both Rosenborg and the Round Tower, but for now here is a nice walk between the two main points. 

    In this article...

    Copenhagen Travel Guide
    Denmark Travel Guide

    Download this Guide

    All of our guides can be downloaded via our online store. 

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

    View at the Store

    Walking Route

    Rosenborg Castle

    Rosenborg Castle was constructed in 1606 as a summer house for King Christian IV. It served as a royal residence until 1710. Since then it has been home to the royal collection, which has allowed for the interiors to be well-preserved. 

    Layout

    On the third floor is the long hall, which was originally intended as a ballroom but was eventually converted into the Royal Reception Rooms. From the 19th century it was known as the “Knights Hall”. Inside you can see the coronation chair of the kings.

    Architecture

    The castle is designed in a Dutch Renaissance style in red brick, which is common for Danish architecture of the time. 

    Visiting Rosenborg

    Rosenborg is open throughout the year.

    Virtual Tour of Rosenborg Castle

    If you can’t visit the castle, it is possible to do a virtual tour of the castle online. Click here to view it. 

    The King's Garden

    The King’s Garden is the country’s oldest royal garden. It is built in the Renaissance style and was designed shortly after Rosenborg was completed. 

    This was also where herbs and vegetables were grown for the royal kitchen. You can visit the royal herb garden to see the apples, pears, cherries, plums and other foods such as almonds and figs. The garden is much smaller than it used to be – when it was built it had 1,400 different plants. 

    The park has become one of the most popular places to spend time in the summer, and you’ll often see picnics in the park. 

    The royal family lost interest in the garden in the 18th century. It was open to the public in the 1770s under King Christian VII’s doctor, J.F. Struensee. Their relationship is featured in a Danish movie called A Royal Affair. 

    Most of the trees you are passing are lime trees. 

    The Pavilions

    As you exit the park, you’ll pass some lovely pavilions on either side of the gate. These were designed by city architect Petery Meyn, who had just returned from Paris. He was inspired by the Pont Neuf with its iron fence and small shops.

    With this inspiration, he had 14 small shop pavilions built around The King’s Garden. They were completed in 1806 and sold everything from cakes to stockings. All of them are in a matching Neoclassical style.

    Today they are still little shops. They are rented out by the Palaces and Properties Agency on two-year leases with the possibility of extension. To be granted a lease, you have to have the shop open for a minimum of 20 hours a week and the shop has to be somewhat relevant to the areas history – many of them are cafes. 

    Gothersgade

    The name Gothersgade comes from the royal title “de gothers” (and gade means street). 

    The street runs along where the eastern rampart of Copenhagen’s former fortifications was. The street was laid out in 1647 after the Eastern Rampart had been moved north to expand the city. 

     

    Landemærket

    The name directly translates to “The Landmark”. Historically, the street was where the transition from the built-up area of the city and the last undeveloped lots within the city walls were. 

    The street can be seen on maps from the 16th century. From the late 18th century, this is where some small shops were established. They sold various goods such as tea and coffee, porcelain, stockings and bread. 

    The houses from numbers 43 to 55 are all from 1730 and are listed for protection. 

     

    Trinity Church

    The church was constructed between 1637 and 1651 and includes the former University of Copenhagen library. It was constructed to be the student church for the nearby University of Copenhagen, and the decision was to include the church in the same complex as the astronomical observatory. 

    The current exterior dates to 1870 from the renovation work. 

    Round Tower

    You’ve made it to the Round Tower! I cover the Round Tower in a separate article (including what you can see inside), but here’s a short overview:

    The Round Tower is an astronomical observatory constructed in the mid-17th century. At the time, astronomy was growing in importance around Europe, and countries were competing with each other in establishing colonies around the world. This created the need for accurate navigation across the ocean, of which astronomy played a vital role. 

    The tower was built for Christian Longomontanus, King Christian IV’s new astronomer and the first professor of astronomy at the University of Copenhagen. 

    The Round Tower is a cylindrical tower of masonry. On the upper part of the facade is a gilded rebus inscription, which includes four Hebrew consonants of the Tetragrammaton as well as Christian IV’s monogram. 

    By the 19th century the tower was considered out of date due to the light pollution from the city and it was closed.

    We’ll cover going up the Round Tower in a separate article. 

    Copenhagen Travel Guide
    Denmark Travel Guide
  • Oslo, Walking Guides

    Castle, Fortress, Palace, Prison: A Self-Guided Walk Around Akershus Fortress

    Castle, Fortress, Palace, Prison: A Self-Guided Walk Around Akershus Fortress

    Dominating the Oslofjord skyline, Akershus Fortress is a mixture of medieval castle, military fortress, Renaissance palace, and prison. The fortress, as you can see, has had many different purposes over the years. Today it is still an active military base but is commonly used as a park and museum site. 

    The castle was completed some time around 1300 by King Haakon V of Norway, who moved the capital from Bergen to Oslo and built himself a castle. He used the castle as a residential palace and it was significant in establishing Oslo as the capital.

    After Norway became part of Denmark, the castle became more of a military fortification. 

    Following the Great Fire of 1624, King Christian IV made the decision to move the entire city. He ordered the city be moved closer to Akershus Fortress, and the fortress was remodelled to look like a Renaissance Castle.

    Akershus has successfully survived all sieges, mostly done by the Swedes. 

    For a few hundred years, Akershus was also the site of the prison that became known as The Slavery as you could rent out prisoners for the day.

    This walk will take you through the history of Akershus Fortress and show you all the different purposes the fortress has had. 

    In this article...

    Oslo Travel Guide

    You can find a detailed overview of Oslo, including practical, historic and travel information on our dedicated travel guide page. 

    Oslo Travel Guide

    Downloadable Version of This Guide

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided walks on our online store. 

    View at the Store

    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Information about facilities along the way

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the region & towns
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Facilities including supermarkets, toilets, petrol, hotels, cafes, restaurants with addresses.

    The online guide is a summarised version of the downloadable guide. Some points of interest are only included in the downloadable guide. 

    The walk: Akershus Fortress

    Information Centre

    This walk begins at the visitor centre, which is located just within the fortress walls. The building is from 1774 and was the old artillery building.

    Inside you can buy books, get a map, and purchase tickets for the museums. 

    The Carp Pond

    Located across from the Visitor Centre

    This small pond that we have today is from a much larger pond that used to be here. The stream came from Christiania Square and ran through this pond and down to Munk’s pond. It was divided into two when the foundations of the northern curtain wall were laid out in 1592. The other part served as a moat outside the wall.

    The fortress guide says that carp are kept there in the summer, but when I visited in November 2020 the pond looked completely filled in, and a stage was built in front. 

    Akershus National Penitentiary, or "The Slavery"

    Multiple buildings in this courtyard are from the prison. 

    When Oslo (then called Christiania) got renewed status as the capital in 1814, the fortress function changed. The outer parts were released as building plots for the public. The ramparts became a place for recreation.

    The prison has been here since the 17th century, when King Frederik III said that all convicted of “petty larceny” should work on a chain group in Akershus, and eventually the prison got the nickname ‘The Slavery’ as prisoners could be rented out for the day. They were set to all kinds of public works and some were even hired out to private parties.

    In 1842 there were as many as 530 prisoners here, all male. Amongst the inmates were the famous individuals such as Gjest Baardsen and Ole Hoiland. The world ‘slavery’ was abolished in 1850. 

    The Institution was converted into a National Penitentiary in 1902 and from 1937 it was a detention facility. During World War II, it was a German military prison. Briefly after the war the building was a prison for traitors, and it finally closed in 1950. 

    Today the buildings are used as office buildings for the military and fortress staff. 

    In the second photo you can see the prison chapel (behind the yellow buildings). It was built in 1896 and had tuition rooms and a library inside for the prisoners. 

    Drawbridge & Moat, Cannons

    This bridge and gate is from 1653, though there has been an opening here since 1620. The drawbridge was rebuilt in the mid-19th century and a winch system was added (one of the winches is preserved in the northern part), but in 1920 the moat was filled in when the road below was completed. You can walk out onto the bridge today and pretend the road is the old moat!

    In this large courtyard you’ll see some cannons. These cannons were to keep the prisoners in line, and they were loaded with grapeshot.

    The Guardhouse

    The guardhouse is from 1724 and has the Norwegian coat-of-arms above the front door. The building was used as prison facilities. Today the building is used as a guardhouse and museum for His Majesty the King’s Guard.

    The Guardhouse has been used by the state in a modern context since 1947, when King Haakon VII used Akershus as a banquet hall in celebration of his birthday. 

    The Barracks

    This area was originally a herb garden – it is shown as such in the oldest image of Akershus Fortress from the 1580s. The area eventually got a bathhouse, rabbit cage, and enclosure for deer. The barracks were built in 1778 and weren’t barracks for the military long; in 1787 the first prisoners moved into the northern wing. 

    Prince Carl's Bastion

    We are moving back in time – here is Prince Carl’s Bastion, which was completed in the 17th century. There was a drawbridge and moat here; today it can only be seen from the outside of the fortress walls. 

    The Virgin's Tower

    The Virgin’s Tower is one of the few original elements left – it was constructed around 1300 and is one of the many strong towers that used to surround the fortress. The tower used to be deeper and higher, but has changed over the years. 

    Munk's Tower

    Munk’s Tower is from 1559. It is believed that the water tower used to be here, and it provided drinking water to those at the castle. 

    The name comes from Christian Munk, who had the tower built into its present form. Christian Munk was a Danish sheriff and governor who settled in Norway and saw major renovations of Norway’s fortifications. Throughout the 1560s he ruled over the regions Hamar and Akerhus while residing at Akershus. 

    For a while, in the 19th century, the royal regalia was kept in the tower’s top floor. 

    Castle Contrasts & the Southern Wing

    The Southern Wing (to the right of the image) is one of the oldest parts of the castle. It dates from 1300 and was the original main entrance of the castle, nicknamed ‘the dark passage’. In the passage are remains of four fortified gates. 

    The area was renovated in the 16th century when a chapel was built in the area, and an extra floor (see the large building to the left) was added to make room for the chancery of the Akershus governorship. 

    When Christian IV ruled over Denmark and Norway, the area was converted into opulent apartments for the royal couple. The top floor is now a large room called Christian IV’s hall, and it functions as the castle’s reception room. 

    The Chancery Wing

    Looking at the walls, you can see all the different periods of construction of the fortress. The bottom, grey part is the original castle and has been broken out of the bedrock. The big medieval bricks come next; they are known as the monks tiles. At the top, you see the parts from the 17th century that were added during Christian IV’s building operations. 

    The bit that sticks out was the lavatory facilities. 

    The Romerike Wing

    The Romerike Wing is the building sticking out to the left. The lower part of the building was the storeroom with two fortified gates for taking in supplies. It was rebuilt in 1633 as the royal kitchen, while the second floor was used as living quarters for the viceroy. Between 1841 and 1845 the poet Henrik Wergeland had an office on the ground floor. At the time he was working as the national archivist. 

    Knut's Tower

    You’ll now go through two stone archways. It’s a bit of an up-hill climb. 

    The tower you’ll pass as you go along the path is Knut’s Tower, one of the original parts of the medieval fortress. The tower used to be called the Canons Tower as it was constructed as a crossfire tower. For a long time, however, it was used to keep prisoners. 

    In 1641 the tower underwent changes as it was built into a horse-powered mill.

    The name is a reference to the knight Knut Alvssøn, who was said to have lain unburied in the tower for 12 years after being killed by Henrik Krummerdike in 1502.

    Execution Ground

    This ground is the site used for the execution of members of Norway’s resistance movement. On the 9th and 10th of February, and the 17th of March, 1945, Norwegians were executed here by the Nazis.

    A memorial was unveiled by Haakon VII on 8 May 1949. 

    Norwegian Resistance Museum

    The building was originally the Double Battery and is from the late 17th century. It has housed Norway’s Resistance Museum since 1967. The museum is a fantastic insight into what the war was like in Norway, and the collection was arranged by ex-military and members of the Norwegian resistance. 

    Skarpenord's Powder Magazine

    This huge building was built to be bomb-proof in the late 17th century. it has three ornamental sandstones from the viceroy Hannibal Sehested’s never completed fortress gave. The sandstone comes from a nearby quarry. 

    Visitor Centre

    You have arrived back at the visitor centre! I hope you enjoyed this walk around Akershus Fortress. 

    Oslo Travel Guide

    You can find a detailed overview of Oslo, including practical, historic and travel information on our dedicated travel guide page. 

    Oslo Travel Guide

    My Akershus walk begins close to the end point for the Oslo City Centre self-guided walking tour, so you can consider doing that walk first. 

    Oslo City Centre Self-Guided Walk

    My Akershus walk begins close to the end point for the Oslo City Centre self-guided walking tour, so you can consider doing that walk first. 

    Oslo City Centre Self-Guided Walk
  • Ålesund, Hurtigruten

    Top Things to do in Ålesund, including with Hurtigruten and Havila

    Top Things to do in Ålesund, including with Hurtigruten and Havila

    Ålesund’s beautiful architecture stands out, making it feel much more like being in Prague or central Europe over being in Norway. In 1904 a fire destroyed practically the entire city centre, and the city was rebuilt in a uniform style mostly thanks to funding from Kaiser Wilhelm, who loved vacationing in the region.

    Ålesund has been voted one of the most beautiful cities in Norway. While I must admit Bergen is a little more beautiful (I do live there, after all!), there’s no denying that Ålesund is probably a close second.

    Norway's Coastal Ferry

    Kirkenes is a port of call of Norway’s coastal ferry. Find my guide for the coastal ferry by clicking the link below. 

    Norway's Coastal Ferry
    Ålesund Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    In this article...

    Things to do in Ålesund

    The best things to do in Ålesund depends on how much time you have. If you are taking the Hurtigruten or Havila in winter and spring, it spends 10 hours in Ålesund, giving you a chance to enjoy a lot the city has to offer. Otherwise, you can spend a couple nights here and venture out into the magnificent fjord region.

    This guide is written for people coming both on the coastal ferry and coming independently.

    Join a walking tour

    I always recommend walking tours in Norwegian cities. There is so much history and so many stories in each place that you need a local telling you all about it. Ålesund has famous Art Nouveau buildings that you don’t want to miss, so get a local expert to show you around.

    Link: Ålesund City Walk

    Hurtigruten Excursion

    Havila Excursion

    See Ålesund by kayak

    The waterfront warehouses make them perfect for some kayaking. You can do an architecture-themed kayaking tour or go out to an archipelago near the island of Ellingsøya. The first is offered as a Hurtigruten/Havila excursion.

    Ålesund’s Kayak More Tomorrow rents out kayaks and organises day trips around the archipelago.

    Havila Excursion

    Hurtigruten Excursion

    Hike up Mt. Aksla

    No trip to Ålesund is complete without a visit to the top of Mount Aksla. It’s not a long hike – there’s 418 steps to the top – and from the top you’ll get an incredible view out to the city. The mountain is only 130m (426ft) high, and it should take you around 30 minutes to get to the top. Typically, if you see one photo of Ålesund it’s generally the photo from the top of Mt. Askla. If you are unable to go up the 418 steps, you can get a taxi to take you to the top – it has road access! Many bus tours of Ålesund will take you to the top. Once at the top, reward yourself with a stop at the restaurant Fjellstue.

    The hiking path begins at the city park (Byparken) and is clearly marked on Google Maps.

    Hike up Sukkertoppen

    See that mountain in the background of the above photo? Why not hike that one too! That’s Sukkertoppen (Sugar Loaf Top), a 314m (1030ft) mountain that isn’t too tricky. The hike begins in the parking lot of the Hessa School.

    Click here for more information

    Havila Excursion

    Visit the Museums

    Art Nouveau Centre & KUBE Gallery

    The main museum to visit in Ålesund is called the Art Nouveau Centre (Jugendstil Senteret, Apotekergata 16). The museum is located inside the old pharmacy building and is well preserved from when it was built in the early 20th century. The museum chronicles the famous fire of Ålesund in 1904 and subsequent rebuilding process.

    Next door is KUBE, a former bank building that now has an art gallery with temporary exhibitions.

    If you are interested in the early history of Ålesund, visit the Aalesund Museum. It has photographs, artefacts and paintings of Ålesund from before and after the reconstruction. It explains what life was like in Ålesund before the fire, and there is information about Ålesund’s critical importance as a Norwegian resistance base during World War II.

    To learn about Ålesund’s fishing heritage, visit the Fishing Museum (Fiskerimuseet, Molovegen 10) next door. It’s in a warehouse from 1861 (one of the few buildings to survive the fire) and has exhibitions on the development of fishing across the centuries and special sections on the klippfisk production.

    Visit the Marine Life at the Atlantic Sea Park

    Many people head straight to the Atlanterhavsparken, or the Atlantic Sea Peak, which is a huge aquarium famous in the country. Hurtigruten offers an excursion to the aquarium as well. It is a large-scale recreation of the Atlantic marine environment, including several enormous fish tanks; there’s also an outside area with walking trails and a place to go for a walk.

    Hurtigruten Excursion

    Havila Excursion

    Sunnmøre Museum

    4km outside the city centre is the Sunnmøre Museum. The buildings, which date from the Middle Ages, are arranged to display various aspects of local life. The buildings include cow sheds, shore-houses, stables, and dwellings. Outside are many ships – both original and replica – representing traditional 17th century vessels. The museum is home to the Kvalsund ship – the oldest complete boat ever found in Norway, dating back to 690 AD. It is believed the 18m (60ft) oak and pine warship had been buried in sacrifice to the gods before it was discovered in 1920.

    Hurtigruten Excursion

    Visit the Vikings at Giske

    Located just outside the city, Giske is a historic island known from the Viking Age. On the island you can do a 3km long ‘culture trail’. On Giske, the 12th century church is worth stopping by. The church is built of white marble and is Norway’s only marble church. There’s a small graveyard with a lot of graves with the surname Giske, indicating the importance of the island in Norway. Inside is a family tree showing the Giske family all the way back to the famous Viking Rollo. At Godøya, which resembles a giant piece of rock, you can do a nature walk of Valderøya to the grassy residential paradise of Giske itself. There are Roman and Iron Age finds on Valderøya, while the Mjelthaugen burial ground on Giske dates back to the Bronze Age.

    Try the Local Delicacies

    Bacalao is made from klippfisk from Norway

    Due to Ålesund’s importance as a fishing port, fish products are one of the most common menu items. They are also some of the best! Ålesund is a great place to try klippfisk, which is the salted and dried cod used to make bacalao. The downtown XL Diner specialises in klippfisk. Maki (Apotekergata) is a four or five course tasing menu with coastal flavours.

    Invit (Apotekergata 9b) is a café with perfect views to watch the yachts sail by, or you can head to Lyspunket (Kipervikgata 1) for a quiet lunch with Mexican-inspired dishes made with Norwegian lefse instead of corn tortillas. They also have lovely soup dishes.

    Shop Like a Local

    In Ålesund you can find some excellent places to go shopping. Artifex Kunst & Antikk sells second-hand goods and local art, while Jukebox sells records. If you want a big shopping mall, head to Ålesund Storesenter.

    Take a Day Cruise

    Ålesund is perfectly situated close to the popular Geirangerfjord and Hjørundfjord. In summer, it is possible to take a day ferry out to the Geirangerfjord, and it is highly recommended. If you are travelling with Hurtigruten or Havila, they go inside the Geirangerfjord from June to September, and then the Hjørundfjord during September and October.

    Havila Excursion

    Take a Day Trip

    Take a Day Trip by Car

    Ålesund is a short drive from one of Norway’s 18 national tourist roads, Trollstigen. It is a great way to get to the town Åndalsnes, where you can take the Romsdal Gondola to the top of the mountain for an impressive view over the city. If you’re taking the Hurtigruten or Havila, they have a day trip by bus to Åndalsnes and the Romsdal Gondola.

    Hurtigruten Excursion

    Another great place to go for the day is the Atlantic Road, which is between Kristiansund and Molde.

    If you want to stay a little closer, drive out to the island of Godøy and visit Alnes Lighthouse. This is also an excursion offered by Hurtigruten and Havila in the winter months. You can combine it with a trip to Giske if you want to learn about the Vikings. Alnes Lighthouse was built in 1876 and is still in operation, though today it is automated. The tower is open for visitors between May and October, and the old keeper’s house is now a café and exhibition hall. It’s only 30 minutes from Ålesund, so why not head out there?

    Hurtigruten Excursion

    Norway's Coastal Ferry

    Kirkenes is a port of call of Norway’s coastal ferry. Find my guide for the coastal ferry by clicking the link below. 

    Norway's Coastal Ferry
    Ålesund Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide
  • Central Norway, European Highways, Mo i Rana, Mosjoen, Road-trips, Trondheim

    Drive it Yourself: E6 from Mo i Rana to Trondheim

    Drive it Yourself: E6 from Mo i Rana to Trondheim

    The E6 (European Highway 6) is the main highway that runs through Norway. This section, from Mo i Rana to Trondheim, runs primarily through the county of Trøndelag. While not as dramatic as some other stretches of road on the E6, it’s the way between central Norway and Northern Norway, and there are some nice places to stop along the way. 

    You’ll probably use this road if you are looking to get to Northern Norway quickly. Sure, the coastal road is much more scenic, but the E6 is much quicker. There are some beautiful spots to stop at along the way, which I’ve done my best to highlight below. 

    In this article...

    Downloadable Version of This Guide

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

    View at the Store

    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Information about facilities along the way

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the region & towns
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Facilities including supermarkets, toilets, petrol, hotels, cafes, restaurants with addresses.

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    Visit Our YouTube Channel

    The E6 Between Mo i Rana & Trondheim

    Mo i Rana

    This drive begins in Mo i Rana. You can find a detailed overview of Mo i Rana on our travel guide. 

    Mo i Rana Travel Guide

    Hemnes Municipality

    Hemnes Municipality is located in Nordland County . The municipality focuses on agriculture, power production, the mechanical industry, wood products and boat building. The coat of arms represents this industry with a boat clamp in gold against a blue backdrop.

    Hemnes has the oldest operating local radio network in Norway, called Radio Korgen, which was established in 1982.

    Finneidfjord

    Village

    Finneidfjord is a small settlement. The name comes from its Sami heritage; Finniedt was a Sami farm first mentioned in 1567. The settlement saw growth starting in 1925 with the establishment of a margarine factory. The margarine factory was very well-known in Norway until it was bought out and closed in 1973. A caviar factory was built on the same site and operated until 2007, when it closed down.

    Bjerka

    Town

    Bjerka is a small town located at the mouth of the river Røssåga. One of the main employers in town is the slaughterhouse, which slaughters cattle, pugs and sheep producing dry beef and pork ribs. Since 2008, it has been the only slaughterhouse in Nordland County. About 90 employees work here.  

    Korgen

    Town

    Korgen is the main town for Hemnes municipality. Many Norwegians have heard of Korgen because of the Korgenfjellet mountain range, which is perfect for skiing. Because of that, the town is quite popular for people staying for a few days to take advantage of the mountains. The tallest mountain in Northern Norway, Oksskolten, is located here. Korgen is also close to the Okstindan Nature and Culture Park.

    The Okstindan Nature and Culture Park is a centre full of hiking trails, ski trails, and history. It includes the “Blood Trail”, which chronicles the Nazi’s attempt to construct a railway to Narvik and the Soviet POWs tasked with building the railway. There are also glaciers and caves to explore.

    You can easily spend a few days here if you love the outdoors. Visit the park website for more detailed information about what you can see and do. https://visitokstindan.com/en/kategori/the-okstindan-nature-and-cultural-park/

    Sandnessjøen

    Sandnessjøen is a charming little town located on the Hegleland Coastal Road (one of Norway’s 18 National Tourist Roads). It’s a lovely place to visit, but the detour can be a little lengthy. It takes about 45 minutes to get there from the E6, but you’d want to spend a little time in the area driving around to see the Seven Sisters and surrounding region.

    You can learn about Sandnessjøen by reading my travel guide (to the left). 

    Sandnessjøen Travel Guide

    Vefsn Municipality

    Vefsn is a municipality with arguably the best coat-of-arms in Norway – a surprised chicken! The name Vefsn comes from the river Vefsna, which flows through the municipality into the Vefsnfjorden. The meaning of the name is unknown.

    The main town centre for Vefsn is Mosjøen, a town a highly recommend visiting on this drive. The landscape is dominated by spruce forests, mountains, lakes, agriculture, and the river.

    This area is very old; there are traces of settlement in Vefsn back to the Stone Age. Among other things, Norway’s oldest skis have been found in Drevja. Vefsn also appears in the story of how Torolv Kveldulvsson demanded the ‘Finn treasure’ in Egils saga, and the road where this supposedly took place is now called “Toraveien”.

    Mosjøen

    Mosjøen is an adorable small town located on the Helgeland coast, and I highly recommend visiting here. It is, in fact, the oldest town in Helgeland (the name of the traditional region in) and the second-oldest town in Nordland County after Bodø. Mosjøen was declared a trading place in 1875 and has historically been an important industrial and transportation town. Many of the original wooden buildings are still standing today, making it a charming town to go walking through.

    mosjøen Travel Guide

    Grane Municipality

    Grane (Sami name: Gaala) is a small municipality within Nordland County. It is located in the southernmost part of Nordland County, and it links Nordland with the next county, Trøndelag. The main town for Grane is Trofors, which we’ll drive through.

    The name Grane comes from an old farm that used to be here. The farm is known from the Middle Ages, but it rose to prominence in the 17th century. The main industries here are agriculture, forestry, and some reindeer husbandry. Grane is one of the southernmost settlements of the Sami people, and about 10 reindeer husbandry units operate here.

    Laksforsen

    Cafe

    Soon after the Grane municipality sign is Laksforsen, a rest stop and cafe. It is located by a waterfall and has lovely views out to Vefsna river. 

    You can visit their website here. 

    Vefsna River

    River

    The Vefsna River (Sami name: Vaapstenjeanoe) is the largest river in Nordland County – about 163km (101 mi) long. The river flows north, not far from the Swedish border. At Mosjøen, the river empties into the Vefsnfjord.

    Historically Vefsna was known for its salmon, but due to a parasite the salmon population have declined. So, while salmon fishing can’t be done here anymore, it is still possible to fish for trout and char. A fishing licence is required to fish here.

    Brønnøysund

    Trofors is located at the junction between the E6 and Highway 73, which runs between Brønnøysund and Sweden. Both are about 40 minutes from this junction, and each is a great detour.

    I’ve covered Brønnøysund at the travel guide section. 

    Brønnøysund Travel Guide

    Trofors

    Village

    Trofors (Sami name: Trovvegarse) is the main centre for Grane. It is located at the main junction between the European Highway 6 and the Norwegian National Road 73, which runs between Brønnøysund and Tårnaby in Sweden. The town is primarily an agricultural town, but there are over 2,000 fishing lakes here too, making it great for fishing.

    Majavatn

    Village

    Majavatn (Sami name: Maajehjaevrie) is a small village at the bottom of Grane municipality. It has a substaintial Sami settlement who work with reindeer husbandry. Majavatn is also known from World War II. There were confrontations between the Germans and the Norwegian citizens at a nearby farm, and many of the Norwegians involved were later executed by Germans at Falstad concentration camp in 1942.

    Crossing into Trøndelag

    County Border

    As you leave Nordland County there is a fun sign over the highway with ‘Trøndelag’ on the side we are going and ‘Nord Norge’ on the opposite side, signifying the boundary between Trøndelag County and Norland County. There is a carpark by the sign so you can take some photos, and there’s also a rest area.

    Trøndelag Municipality

    We have now crossed into Trøndelag County, which is in the central part of Norway. A person from Trøndelag is known as a trønder, which the dialect here is called trøndersk.

    People have lived in Trøndelag for thousands of years, and during the Iron Age Trøndelag was divided into several petty kingdoms, each with their own common law and all sharing the parliament or thing called Frostating. This is sometimes regarded as the first real democracy.

    Trøndelag was well-known during the Viking Age, and many of Norway’s most famous Vikings lived here. Before the capital was moved to Bergen in 1214, Trøndelag was the site of many of the famous palaces and residences of the Kings. When Bergen (and eventually Oslo) became the capital, Trøndelag’s importance in Norway declined. Today Trøndelag is known for its well-preserved Viking history and the Nidaros Cathedral, located in Trondheim.

    The proximity to Sweden has led to conflicts over the years. Trøndelag was briefly ceded to Sweden in 1658 in the Treaty of Roskilde. It was returned to Denmark-Norway after the Treaty of Copenhagen in 1660. Another attempt was made in 1718 by the Swedes to take Trøndelag, but they were not successful.

    Trøndelag has a diverse climate and geography. Along the coast are the largest islands in Norway south of the Arctic Circle. The south-western part of Trøndelag is separated from Norway by large mountain ranges, especially the Dovrefjell and Trollheimen Mountain Ranges. Closer to the Swedish border the land flattens into a high valley, where Røros is located. In the north, there are several large valleys and flatlands. The rivers in Trøndelag are among the best salmon rivers in Eruope.

    The climate varies dramatically depending on where in the county you are. Closer to the sea has a oceanic climate with mild, wet winters, while closer to the Swedish border are some of the lowest temperatures in Norway during winter. Røros, for example, is the only place in south-central Norway to have recorded -50C (-58F). Most of the lowland areas have a humid continental climate, while the inland valleys, hills and highlands have a boreal climate.

    Trøndelag is primarily an agricultural region, with some of the most fertile land in Norway. Most of the production is meat and milk. Other traditional industries are forestry, mining, and fishing. Today Trøndelag has significant hydropower and wind power companies that support power-intensive industries such as the various timber mills. Aquaculture countes for half of Trøndelag’s export value. The oil and gas industry is also significant. Trondheim is a centre for higher education and has the largest educational institution at the country’s largest university, NTNU.

    The region is known for its moonshine homebrew, known as heimbrent. It is officially banned, but the art of producing moonshine has a strong following in parts of Trøndelag. Traditionally the spirit is served mixed with coffee to create a drink called karsk. The official dish is sodd, made from diced sheep or beef meat and meatballs in boiled stock. The Norwegian Grey Troender sheep is an endangered breed of domesticated sheep originally from Trøndelag. There are approximately 50 sheep left, and efforts are being made to revive the breed.

    Nammskogan Municipality

    We are currently in the upper part of the Namdalen valley, and the municipality takes its name from this. The municipality is heavily forested with several large lakes and the river Namsen running through it.

    Namdalen (Sami name: Nååmesjevuemie) is also the name of the traditional district here. There are three towns here: Namsos, Rørvik and Kolvereid. The rest are small villages and settlements. The river Namsen is one of the best salmon rivers in Europe (only the Tana River in Finnmark has a larger catch of salmon). Agriculture and forestry are also, understandable, important to Namdalen. Norway spruce is the main tree species.

    Namsen River

    River

    The Namsen River (Sami name: Nååmesje) is one of the longest rivers in Trøndelag – around 228km (142 mi) long. It has traditionally been used for floating timber down from the forests to the town of Namsos, where the sawmills were located. The river begins in springs in the Børgefjell National Park and travels through the valley, ending at the coast in Namsos. It is considered one fo the best Atlantic Salmon fishing rivers in the world and is often called the ’Queen of Rivers’. Catching salmon that weigh 23kg (51lb) is not unusual.

    Børgefjellet National Park

    National Park (Detour)

    Børgefjellet National Park is a scenic off-the-beaten path national park with high mountains, rivers, and mountain lakes. The landscape has remnants of Sami domestic reindeer herding, which continues still today. It is a place to go fishing or take some lovely hikes. It is a largely undeveloped area with virtually no construction activity. If you do want to spend some time here, you need to be aware of where you are and camp in the area. The park is located in the centre of Norway along the Swedish border and is also home to the Scandinavian Mountain range.

    Brekkvasselv

    Village

    Brekkvasselv is a tiny village in Namsdalen. The village is also known as Ælva, and a person from Brekkvasselv is known as an Ælving. The first peoples settled here in the 20th century, coming from other places in Norway. However, the Sami have been here for thousands of years, and reindeer herding took place in the highlands.

    The people who came here in the 20th century came because they were helping with the construction of the Nordlandsbanen, and if they settled here they were offered free plots of land to build on.

    Grong Municipality

    Grong (Sami name: Kråangke) is a municipality in Trøndelag with Medjå being the main town. The name comes from an old farm, and the first element is an Old Norse word for spruce. This is also represented on the coat-of-arms; the three spruce trees represent the three main villages in the municipality.

    One of the main waterfalls here is Fiskumfoss, an economically important waterfall that is used for power production. There is also a salmon ladder here. A salmon aquarium has been built by the waterfall, where you can sit and eat salmon while watching the waterfall. The building also has the Norwegian Sport Fishing History Museum. Burial mounds are also found throughout the area from the older Iron Age, and there are ancient moose hunting grounds, house foundations, and roads.

    Medjå/Grong

    Village

    We are passing the village of Medjå, which is sometimes called Grong. It is a small village with a petrol station and supermarket.

    Snåsa Municipality

    Snåsa (South Sami: Snåase) is a small but important municipality: it is one of the last strongholds of the seriously endangered Southern Sami language. In Snåsa you’ll find the Saemien Sijte, which is the national museum of South Sami history and culture. The goal of the museum is to strengthen South Sami identity and a sense of community. Next to the museum is a primary school that teaches the South Sami language.

    The coat-of-arms represents a yellow Lady Slipper orchid on a blue background. At least 15 species of orchid have been found growing in Snåsa, and they are known as some of the magnificent orchids in Scandinavia.

    Snåsavatnet / Snåsa Lake

    Lake

    The lake we see straight ahead is Snåsavatnet, the sixth-largest lake in Norway at 122km2 (47 sq mi). The lake reaches depths of up to 186m (610ft) and was made by glacial erosion.

    Egge

    Historic Site (Detour)

    We are passing the exit to Egge. Egge is a known Viking town, and it was home to the powerful chieftains who gathered the peasants to fight against Olav Haraldsson in the Battle of Stiklestad in 1030.

    The museum has a reconstructed manor and fun activities for kids. For the adults, the cultural landscape is preserved and there are a number of hiking trails you can take to enjoy the ancient scenery.

    Click here to read more. 

    Steinkjer Municipality

    Steinkjer is one of the larger municipalities in the region, though its population density is very low, with just 12.6 inhabitants per sq km (33 sq mi). The population has increased by 2.4% over the last 10 years. The coat-of-arms shows a verranjekt, a type of boat that is very common in the area. It’s a new coat-of-arms from 2020.

    The area around Steinkjer is historic – it has been populated since the Stone Age. Rock carvings can be seen in the area, and the oldest are 6,000 years old. During the Viking Age, Steinkjer was an important base and Maere was one of the best known religious places with sacrifices and gatherings before Christianity came to the country.

    The town of Steinkjer was sadly bombed during World War II. The attack destroyed a large part of Steinkjer, and many priceless historic buildings, including the church, were lost. The town was quickly rebuilt after the war with the help of aid from the United States. Much of the architecture found in Steinkjer is from the 1950s and 1960s and is inspired by functionalism. One of the few buildings to survive the bombing is the train station, which is designed in art nouveau.

    Steinkjer is one of the northernmost areas with rich agriculture, allowing large production of grain. You’ll notice as you drive through just how important grain production is to the area. Tall grain silos can be seen all over the landscape.

    Inderøy Municipality

    Inderøy is an agricultural municipality located in North Trøndelag. The municipality has been inhabited since the Middle Ages, and the village of Sakshaug used to be an important political centre. It is home to one of the oldest churches in the area, Old Sakshaug Church, from 1184.

    The coat-of-arms shows the European plaice. The fish was once plentiful int he waters and was one of the main sources of income in the area until around 1940. Fishing is still important to the region. Farming is also very important to the area, and most of the municipality is cultivated. Grass and grain are the most common crops, but strawberries are also common. Most farmers have their own forest, too.

    The population density is 19.4 inhabitants per sq km (50/sq mi). The population has increased by 15.9% over the last 10 years.

    One of the most prominent 20th century Norwegian sculptors, Nils Aas, is from this area.

    Verdal Municipality

    People have lived at Verdal since the Stone Age, and there are farms in the region that are mentioned as far back as the 12th century. The municipality is best known for the site Stiklestad, where we are heading to next.

    A unique word to learn for this area is råning. It refers to all the young people here who are interested in cars. They spend a lot of their time improving or styling their cars and then driving them on a particular route to show them off.

    The economy here is supported by the offshore industry as well as agriculture. Verdal is also known as one of the greatest lottery towns of Norway, with several lottery grand prizes going to people living in Verdal.

    Stiklestad

    Historic Site (Detour)

    Stiklestad is one of the most important religious sites in the country. It is where, in 1030, St. Olav fell in battle during the Battle of Stiklestad. His sainthood arose from this death.

    Today Stiklestad feels like a bit of a tourist trap – they’ve built up all these new centres, exhibitions and hotels in the last 20 years – but there’s still historical interest in visiting here.

    You can read my separate guide to Stiklestad below.

    Stiklestad

    Levanger Town Centre

    Town

    Shortly after the Falstad Centre, we pass turn-offs to Levanger. If you want to visit the main street, just follow signs towards Levanger. I mentioned the history of Levanger town centre in the section about Levanger municipality.

    Munkeby Abbey Ruins

    Historic Site (Detour)

    Just after Levanger town is the turn-off to the ruins of Munkeby Abbey. It’s just a short drive from the E6, and is a nice area to go to stretch your legs.

    The Munkeby Abbey was founded some time between 1150 and 1180 and it was the most northly Cistercian foundation in the world. It was likely built by English monks. The monastery was eventually closed down, though the church was used until 1587.

    Falstad Centre

    WWWII Site (Detour)

    You can visit the Falstad Centre, which is an old concentration camp from World War II. Today it is a museum. Read a more detailed article below. 

    Falstad Centre

    Stjørdal Municipality

    We have arrived in Stjørdal, which has an amazing coat-of-arms! The design is modern but comes from the old medieval seal of Stjørdal, which dates from 1344. The dragon is a symbol of Saint Margaret of Antioch, and the old seal showed Saint Margaret standing on a slain dragon. It has always stood as a symbol for authority, power, and exalted dignity of the region.  Stjørdal is the location of Steinvikholm Castle, a nice detour.

    Steinviksholmen Castle

    Historic Site (Detour)

    How to get here:

    Steinviksholmen is clearly marked on Google Maps. It’s just off the E6 and marked with brown tourist signs the entire way. It’s about 10-15 minutes off the E6.

    The road is very narrow, and you’ll have to watch out for traffic coming the other way.

    —–

    Steinvikholmen Castle is a 16th century castle constructed by Norway’s last Roman Catholic Bishop, Olav Engelbrektsson. After meeting with the Pope, Olav’s resistance to the Danish rule and the Reformation escalated. Steinvikholm was built as the Catholic churches military stronghold. The castle was finished in 1532, but sadly for Olav the Reformation succeeded in 1537 and Olav was forced to flee to Lier. It was the last Catholic stronghold in Norway. When Olav fled, he left Saint Olav’s shrine and other treasures, and they were returned to Nidaros Cathedral in 1568.

    After the Reformation, the site was used as a quarry and some of its masonry was sold off. Since the late 19th century, the site has been owned and operated by the Past Memory Association (Fortidsminneforeningen). It is used as concert hall for a midnight opera, Olav Engelbrektsson, which details the life and struggles of the archbishop. The opera takes place annually.

    Steinvikholm Castle is Norway’s largest structure from the Middle Ages.

    In summer, it is open as a museum. There are also photographs and information boards (Norwegian and English) around the site. You can walk around the fortress for free, but the interior is what costs money. When we visited, we saw lots of kids swimming in the water around the fortress.

    You park on the mainland and pay a small fee (they use Vipps to accept parking payment), and then walk across the bridge (photographed) to the castle. The entrance is on the other side from my photos.

    Even if you aren’t interested in the castle, the surrounding scenery is gorgeous.

    Hell Station

    Train Station

    Hell is a small village by Trondheim Airport. The village has become a bit of a tourist attraction because of its name, which means “luck” in English. In modern Norwegian, the word for “hell” is “helvete”. The sign underneath says “Gods Expedition”, which actually means “Cargo Handling” in English. Stop by the train station and get a photo!

    Malvik Municipality

    Malvik is a small municipality just outside of Trondheim. It is one of the few municipalities in the area seeing population growth, with the population rising 13% of the last 10 years. Many people work in Trondheim. The coat-of-arms shows a black capercaillie, which is a symbol for the rich nature in the area.

    Trondheim Municipality

    Trondheim (South Sami name Tråante) is the third-most populous municipality in Norway, though it’s the fourth largest urban area. The settlement is a known Viking area, and Trondheim itself has many famous monuments from medieval times. There’s so much to say about Trondheim, so you can read a detailed overview by clicking the button below. 

    Trondheim

    We have now arrived in Trondheim! A detailed overview of Trondheim can be found on the travel guide section of The Hidden North. 

    This is the end of our two-week drive from Trondheim to Senja and back again. Be sure to check out our next series, summer in the West Fjords!

    Trondheim Travel Guide

    Previous Drive

    Narvik to Mo i Rana on the E6

    See the previous day’s drive on the E6 between Narvik and Mo i Rana

    Narvik to Mo i Rana

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • European Highways, Mo i Rana, Narvik, Northern Norway, Road-trips

    Drive it Yourself: E6 from Narvik to Mo i Rana

    Drive it Yourself: E6 from Narvik to Mo i Rana

    The E6 (European Highway 6) is the main highway that runs from Narvik to Mo i Rana. This portion of the drive takes place just above the Arctic Circle; we actually cross the Arctic Circle close to Mo i Rana. 

    There is a lot of World War II history along this road. From the famous Battle of Narvik to the attempted Arctic Railway, there are plenty of historic places to stop. 

    For the nature lovers, the Saltfjellet-Svartisen National Park is a delight to travel through.

    When we did this drive, I remember being surprised by how stunningly beautiful and untouched this part of Norway is. Also, there were so few settlements here. 

    Enjoy the drive!

    In this article...

    Downloadable Version of This Guide

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

    View at the Store

    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Information about facilities along the way

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the region & towns
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Facilities including supermarkets, toilets, petrol, hotels, cafes, restaurants with addresses.

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    Visit Our YouTube Channel

    The drive: Narvik to Mo i Rana on the E6

    Narvik

    This drive begins in Narvik. You can find a detailed overview of Narvik via our travel guide. 

    Narvik Travel Guide

    Fagernes

    Village

    Fagernes has historically been a singular farm, and it has been known for a few hundred years as the largest and wealthiest in the inner part of Ofoten. It was of central importance to the construction of the railway between Kiruna and Narvik; the wealthy farmer Statius Mosling was eager to have the railroad built. It is because of him that the Ofoten Line ends in Fagernes and not Narvik.

    Today Fagernes is an inner suburb of Narvik.

    Målselv Municipality

    Målselv (Sami name: Málatvuomi suohkan) is a municipality in Troms County. The area was settled by farmers from southern Norway from 1788 onwards. They came here because of the large, forested areas as well as the fertile land. The valley and the municipality take its name from the river Målselva, which is well known for its salmon. The river also forms the Målselv waterfall, which has been selected as Norway’s national waterfall. One of the rarest orchids in Europe, Lysiella oligantha, is found in Målselva.

    Skjomnes Memorial

    Memorial

    This memorial commemorates the naval battles that took place on the Ofotfjord. It particularly explains the fighting that took place on the Ankenes peninsula, and there is an information board about the dramatic events that took place here. The memorial is set in a nice location by the fjord, perfect to take a break.

    Ballangen

    Village

    Ballangen (Sami name: Bálák) used to be its own municipality until it was merged with Narvik in 2020.

    The area was known in the Viking Age; the first person to live here was Lodve Lange, who is mentioned in the Heimskringla as one of Olav Tryggvason’s most trusted warriors. He lived at Saltvik, the small village we just passed through.

    Ballangen saw growth in the 17th century thanks to mining, and in total over 36 mines have been operated in Ballangen. Minerals like copper, nickel, iron, zinc, manganese and lead have been mined. Ballangen has the dubious distinction of having Norway’s highest rate of sick leave from work, probably due to the high number of people who work in the mines there and related environmental effects.

    Here you’ll find a petrol station and supermarket. There’s also a camping ground here if you wish to spend the night. 

    Bognes - Skarberget

    Ferry

    This is the only ferry connection on the European Highway 6 remaining. The crossing time is only 25 minutes and there are 15 departures a day. There is a café on board as well as restrooms. Simply drive on; your rental car will likely have an AutoPASS, and the ferry staff will scan it – that’s how to pay for a ferry!

    You can view their schedule here. 

    Hamarøy Municipality

    Hamarøy (Sami name: Hábmer) is in Nordland County and the traditional district of Salten. The coat-of-arms is new; it depicts two swans as seen on an ancient rock carving seen in the municipality. The previous coat-of-arms was a lynx, which are common in the area.

    The municipality is dominated by small fjords, pine, birch, and aspen woodland. There are several nature reserves here as some as some beautiful mountains, including the very unique Hamarøyskaftet, which stands 612m (2008ft) high.

    Tourism in Hamarøy is linked with Knut Hamsen, the famous Norwegian author who lived in the area. The municipality also has a ferry connection to the famous Lofoten islands. Agriculture is still a dominaent industry, though the salmon slaughterhouse is also important to the municipality.

    Ulvsvåg

    Village

    Ulvsvåg (Sami name: Ulsváhke) is a small village with all the basic facilities. However, it has an old petrol (ESSO) station from 1946, which is very cute and well worth a quick stop. The name apparently comes from a Viking called Ulv who chose to settle here.

    Knut Hamsun Centre

    The Knut Hamsun Centre (Hamsunsenteret) is a museum dedicated to the life and work of author Knut Hamsun. The building was designed by American architect Steve Holl (who also designed the Kiasma art gallery in Helsinki) and opened in 2009. The exhibition is structured thematically and deals with topics like Knut Hamsun’s childhood in Hamarøy, his support of Germany during World War II, and modernism in his writing.

    Click here to visit their website.

    The centre is 15km off the E6. 

    Innhavet

    Settlement

    Innhavet is a small settlement located by the Sagfjorden. It has all the facilities needed for a town of its size, including a school, grocery store and hairdresser. This is also where you’ll find the Hamarøy War Museum, as the Germans had started building a train station would would be part of the Arctic Circle train line. They were using Soviet prisoners of war to construct the train. Remains of railway and prison camps are found in the area.

    Sørfold Municipality

    Sørfold is a municipality in Nordland Count and the traditional district of Salten. The coat-of-arms represents a silver wheel of a turbine in a hydroelectric power plant; the rivers in Sørfold contain many rapids and waterfalls that are partly harnessed to generate electricity. It has provided a major source of income for the community.

    Sørfold is about 120km (75 mi) north of the Arctic Circle and is home to Rago National Park, known for its wild nature with bare rock, streams and a pine forest.

    During World War II, the German army had a prisoner-of-war camp here housing Russian POWs who were building the Polarbanen (Arctic Railway) that was supposed to connect Fauske with Narvik. Some ruins of the camp and the railway can still be seen.

    Mørsvikbotn

    Village

    This is a small village with a school and a grocery shop. The area is known for a prison camp that used to stand here during World War II. The prison camp was used for Russian POWs who were here to build the Arctic Railway between Fauske and Narvik on the Polarbanen.

    Straumen

    Village

    Straumen is the administrative centre of Sørfold in Nordland. It has a population of around 890. The larger town of Fauske is about 12km away.

    Fauske Municipality

    Fauske (Sami name: Fuassko) is a municipality in Nordland and the traditional district of Salten. The name comes from a historic farm that used to be on the site, and the coat-of-arms represent a red reef knot on a grey background, showing Fauske as a centre of commerce and transportation.

    Several marble quarries can be found in Fauske, and the marble is exported to many countries. Marble from Fauske can be seen on the United Nations Headquarters in New York City, for example. Dolomite quarries are also here, and there is some agriculture.

    There are two large glaciers in Fauske – Blåmannsisen and Sulitjelma. Together, they cover 14% of the municipality. There are also parts of the Junkerdal National Park and the Sjunkhatten National Park in the municipality, plus several nature reserves. Fauske is located within the Arctic Circle.

    Fauske has a rich Sami history, and at Leivset is a protected Sami sacrificial site. Place names in the municipality come from the Sami people.

    Fauske

    Town

    Fauske is a town and main centre for Fauske Municipality. It has a population of 6,300 and is a fairly ‘new’ town; it was established in 1998. However, the name comes from an old farm that has been here for thousands of years. Fauske Church (from 1867) is built on the site of the farm.

    Fauske is a stop on the Nordlandsbanen, which runs between Trondheim and Bodø. Despite being above the Arctic Circle, Fauske does not experience the polar night – in December, the sun rises at 11am and sets before 12pm.

    Fauske is a great place to break up the drive. It has a shopping mall, petrol stations, grocery stores, and even a Scandic Hotel.

    At Fauske you’ll find a turn-off to Highway 80, which will take you all the way to Bodo. Click here to visit the travel guide page for Bodo. 

    Saltdal Municipality

    Saltdal (Sami name: Sálát) is a municipality in Nordland County and part of the traditional district of Salten. The coat-of-arms represents two gold-coloured rowan twigs on a red background, representing the nature and prevalence of rowan forests in the municipality.

    The main centre of the municipality is Rognan, which sits on the southern shore of the Saltdal Fjord. A major historical industry was boat building out of local timber. Today it is Nexans, a global fibre company. The company’s Rognan factory specialises in telecommunications, fibre optics and copper cables.

    Rognan

    Village

    Rognan is the main town for Saltdal municipality and is located at the innermost part of the Skjerstad fjord.

    The main industry here is the optical cable factory of Nexans. The Nordland Line between Trondheim and Bodø stops in Rognan, too. Rognan has the “Blodvei Museum”, a museum about the Nazi’s attempt to build a railway between Fauske and Narvik.

    Rognan has a grocery store, hotel, camping ground and petrol station. 

    Saltfjellet-Svartisen

    National Park

    This park is a national park that has the European Highway 6 and the Nordland Line running through it, which makes it pretty special. It is one of the largest and most varied national parks in Norway, with alpine mountains, glaciers, as well as forested valleys. In this stretch, we see the Saltfjellet mountain range.

    Many Sami cultural landmarks are within the park, too. Some of the oldest Sami monuments are from the 9th century and include sacrificial sites, animal graves and fences. Today’s domestic reindeer husbandry has its roots from the 16th century.

    The Saltfjellet Mountain Range has peaks reaching up to 1,751m (5,745ft) above sea level. In the park you will see lots of reindeer, but there are also wolverines and lynx. In the valleys are plenty of moose. Cabins are available to rent within the park if you wish to spend a longer period of time here.

    We drive through the eastern part of the park. 

    Rana Municipality

    Rana is a large municipality within the Helgeland traditional region. The main city is Mo i Rana, where this drive finishes today. The municipality is located just south of the Arctic Circle, and the municipality is famous for their numerous caves due to the limestone rock.

    Arctic Circle Centre

    Visitor Centre

    The Arctic Circle Centre is a fun little roadside stop to get some souvenirs, snacks, and take some photos of yourself on the Arctic Circle. The centre opened in 1990, the same time the E6 highway over the Saltfjellet mountains was completed.

    Eiterå

    Village

    Eiterå is a small farming settlement in Rana. It is one of the oldest areas in Rana municipality; the land was cleared for farming in 1723 and four farms were established into the areas. The farm buildings still stand today and are operated by the descendants of the original owners.

    Mo i Rana

    We have now arrived in Mo i Rana! You can find a detailed version of Mo i Rana over on our travel guide. 

    Mo i Rana Travel Guide

    Continue the drive

    The E6 between Mo i Rana and Trondheim

    After Mo i Rana, we continued south on the E6 to Trondheim on the last part of our incredible road-trip. 

    Mo i Rana to Trondheim

    Previous Drive

    Nordkjosbotn to Narvik

    Our previous drive began near Finnsnes and continued south on the E6 to Narvik. 

    Nordkjosbotn to Narvik

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Narvik, Northern Norway, Road-trips, World War II

    Drive it Yourself: E6 from Nordkjosbotn to Narvik

    Drive it Yourself: E6 from Nordkjosbotn to Narvik

    Welcome to the next part of our amazing drive from Trondheim to the Lofoten Islands! This drive was actually the turning point for us as we made our way back south to Trondheim. It was a little sad turning around; I just wanted to keep on going! Anyway, today we begin the first of three travel days on the E6 south to Trondheim.

    We actually began the drive in Finnsnes, a town across from the beautiful island of Senja. In the morning we ventured out to the Sami souvenir shop mentioned below before turning around and heading south on the E6.

    The drive close to Narvik is so beautiful! What I love is the amount of effort put into having rest areas with information about the Battle of Narvik, too. 

    Enjoy the drive!

    In this article...

    Downloadable Version of This Guide

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

    View at the Store

    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Information about facilities along the way

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the region & towns
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Facilities including supermarkets, toilets, petrol, hotels, cafes, restaurants with addresses.

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    Visit Our YouTube Channel

    The drive: E6 between Nordkjosbotn & Narvik

    Nordkjosbotn

    Village

    Nordkjosbotn (Sami name: Gárgán) is a small village located at the junction of two major highways – the E6 and the E8. The E8 leads towards Tromsø, while the E6 runs through the entire length of Norway. It is one of the major crossroads in Norway. In the village you’ll find supermarkets, petrol stations, and a small church.

    Balsfjord Municipality

    Balsfjord Municipality (Sami name: Báhccavuotna) is located close to Tromsø Municipality. It has a population of around 5,500 people and has a very low population density. It is surrounded by two major fjords – Malangen and Balsfjorden. The farmland here is very rich.

    The original inhabitants were the Sami people, but in the 1800s new settlers came from Finland. Eventually people moved up from southern Norway and settled in the area. Today there are very few traces of Sami culture. Petroglyphs have been found in the area that are 2,500 to 4,000 years old.

    The coat-of-arms represents a yellow plough on a red background, symbolising the fact that agriculture is the main source of income for municipality. The plough also symbolises that the municipality is at the northernmost border on which grain can be grown in Norway. Agriculture is mostly based on milk and meat production, and Balsfjord has the highest number of cattle, sheep and goats in Troms county.

    Målselv Municipality

    Målselv (Sami name: Málatvuomi suohkan) is a municipality in Troms County. The area was settled by farmers from southern Norway from 1788 onwards. They came here because of the large, forested areas as well as the fertile land. The valley and the municipality take its name from the river Målselva, which is well known for its salmon. The river also forms the Målselv waterfall, which has been selected as Norway’s national waterfall. One of the rarest orchids in Europe, Lysiella oligantha, is found in Målselva.

    Sami Shop Heia

    Shop

    One of my favourite places in the area is this Sami shop. Here you can buy authentic Sami handicrafts, but I love their cafe with some of the best coffee I’ve ever had – boiled over an open fire and very, very strong. 

    Øvre Divdal National Park

    National Park

    The Øvre Divdal National Park (Sami name: Dieváidvuovddi) is a 750km2 (290 sq mi) national park that opened in 1971. The intention behind establishing the park was to protect the inland valley and mountain area. The area is very popular with hiking today. Pine forests grow in the lower areas, while birch grows on the mountains. All the main predators are represented in the park, including the brown bear, wolf, wolverine and lynx. The wolverine are numerous in the area and it is also common to see reindeer (owned by Sami) and moose. The Arctic fox used to live in the area.

    The valley is the second driest in Norway, with an annual precipitation of 282mm (11.1 inches). There is no permafrost in the lower elevations of the park.

    Many Sami cultural monuments remain in the park, from pre-Christian sacrificial sites to reindeer fences. Norwegian settlement didn’t come to the area until the 18th and 19th centuries. The name Divdalen comes from the Sami word dievva, meaning ‘round and dry pile’.

    If you are considering spending some time here, I recommend spending at least one night here. Cabins are available for rent throughout the area.

    Click here to visit their official website. 

    Bardufoss

    Town

    Bardufoss (Sami name: Beardogorži) is the commercial centre for the Målselv municipality. It is located in the Målselvdalen valley near the confluence of the Barduelva and Målselva Rivers. The population is 2,600.

    Bardufoss is known in Norway for its association with the military. The Bardufoss Airport is both a civilian and military airport suitable for landing bomber aircraft, fighter jets and other heavy planes.

    Many people who live in Bardufoss are associated with the Armed Forces. The two military camps Rusta and Heggelia, with the common name Bardufoss Camp, constitute the military centre of gravity in Troms together with Maukstadmoen camp in Øverbygd and Setermoen camp in Bardu. Between Rusta and Heggelia camps is Istindportalen, which is a welfare building for the Armed Forces. It houses the welfare service and equipment for the soldiers as well as a cinema, sports hall, and kiosk for civilians.

    A street in Bardufoss is called General Fleischer’s Veg, in honour of Carl Gustav Fleischer. Carl Gustav Fleischer was a Norwegian general and the first land commander to win a victory against the Germans in World War II.

    The main forest here is made up of Downy birch, Scot’s pine, aspen and grey alder. However, Norway spruce has been planted in the plantations since the middle part of the 20th century for economic reasons (timber).

    The climate in Bardufoss is more continental, and it has reliable snow cover in the winter while the summers are warmer than Tromsø in the summer.

    Bardufoss has an upper secondary school with practical subjects including aeronautical subjects, construction subjects and electrical subjects. The Armed Forces College is located here with courses at the college and university levels.

    Battle of Narvik 1940 Memorial & General Carl Flesicher

    Located just off the E6 in Bardufoss is a memorial about the importance of the Bardufoss Airport in the Narvik Campaign in 1940. 

    This monument at Bardufoss is one of the six memorials erected by the Norwegian Army commemorating the first defeat for Nazi Germany during World War II.

    Bardufoss Airport was important during the Campaign of Narvik and was an important aim of the German advance northwards.

    The street is named in memory of Carl Fleischer, a General in the Norwegian Army at the outbreak of World War II. He was crucial to the early successes of the military in the Battle of Narvik and is credited with coordinating the French, Polish, British and Norwegian forces in recapturing Narvik on the 28th of May. Narvik was the first major allied infantry victory in the Second World War. Unfortunately, the Allies left Narvik due to the German Invasion of France on the 10th of May 1940 and without the support the Norwegians couldn’t hold Narvik. The Germans reoccupied Narvik on the 9th of June. General Fleischer followed King Haakon VII and the government to the United Kingdom.

    During his exile, he built up a Norwegian infantry brigade in Scotland, but he soon got at odds with the Norwegian political leadership due to his stubbornness. He became controversial in factions of the cabinet due to his support of British commando raids on the Norwegian coast. Likely because of his attitudes, he was bypassed when the government-in-exile recreated the post of commander in chief of the Norwegian Armed Forces. Instead, Fleischer was told he would go to Canada and be the commander there. Apart from the Royal Norwegian Air Forces training base near Toronto, which already had a leader, there were no Norwegian forces in Canada. Fleischer took this as an insult and humiliation, and he committed suicide on the 19th of December 1942.

    Still disputed today, it is thought one of the reasons for sending him to Canada was that he favoured coastal raids against Norway to hamper German use of the occupied nation. He also wanted to build substantial army forces abroad and employ them in operations against the German occupying forces, something that was in direct conflict with the more passive strategy favoured by the government in exile. When General Fleischer’s ashes were brought back to Norway after the war, the Labour government denied him a state funeral. When a monument was raised in Harstad, which was attended by the King, the same lack of respect was shown by the Labour Party.

    Bardu Municipality

    Bardu (Northern Sami: Bearddu suohkan) is a small municipality in Troms Country with a population of around 4,000. The Norwegian name of the municipality has been Norwegianised from the Sami name, which means “long and steep mountainside”. The coat-of-arms represent a black wolverine on a gold background, symbolising the rich wildlife in the area.

    Norway’s largest military garrison is located at Setermoen, the administrative centre for Bardu. The military is the municipality’s largest employer, and more than 1,000 young soldiers perform their duty service here every year.

    The world’s most northern zoo, Polar Park, is in the southern part of the municipality.

    Setermoen

    Village

    Setermoen is the main town in Bardu municipality and has a population of around 2,400. Military education was established here in 1898 because of its strategic location in a valley surrounded by mountains. Today it is one of the oldest military camps in Norway, and in many ways the Norwegian Armed Forces has shaped Setermoen and the community through its presence. About 1,000 soldiers and 500 soldiers are stationed here, making it the largest garrison in Norway.

    Click here to visit the Norwegian Army’s website about Setermoen (it has some great pictures!)

    Bardu Bygdetun

    Open-air museum

    Bardu Bygdetun is an open-air museum that contains buildings mostly from the 1860s, arranged to show a historic farm and village. The main building is a farmhouse from 1868, but another interesting building is the school room that was built in the early 20th century to accommodate the 8-10 school students in the district.

    The museum is only open in August, where you’ll find staff dressed up, coffee and food, and other events.

    Click here to visit their website (in Norwegian).

    Polar Park

    Animal Park

    Polar Park is an animal park that specialises in Nordic fauna, including Norway’s four largest predators: brown bear, lynx, wolf, and wolverine. Other animals include moose, muskox, red deer, and reindeer.

    The park is open every day and they also have accommodation options close by.

    Click here to visit their website (in English). 

    Lavangen Municipality

    Lavangen (Sami name: Loabák) is a tiny municipality in the southern part of Troms County; the population is only 1,000! The name comes from the fjord nearby and is from the Old Norse words meaning “leaf fjord”. The coat-of-arms represents gold-coloured birch leaves on a red background, representing how the area was settled by Norwegians, Sami and Kvens. Over 20% of the population have a Sami background; they are mostly descendants of Swedish reindeer herding Sami.

    General Fleischer Memorial & Lapphaugen

    Memorial

    Shortly after driving through the village of Fossbakken is a monument about the Battle of Narvik in 1940. It includes a memorial to General Carl Fleischer as well as some information about the fighting that took place in the area.

    This is the site where the German troops advancing north were stopped by Norwegian forces. The Germans never again resumed the offensive in Narvik. The Germans were held back by a blizzard, which made for zero visibility and they had to stop here at Lapphaugen.

    Gratangen Municipality

    Gratangen (Sami name: Rivttága suohkan) is a small municipality in the southern part of Troms County. The population in the municipality is only around 1,000, with the main village being Årstein.

    Gratangen was the site of the Battle of Gratangen, one of the first battles between the Germans and the Norwegians during the Narvik Campaign in 1940. The first attack was a huge failure as the German counter-attacked unprepared Norwegians, blunting the first Norwegian advance. This battle was, for Norwegians, their first serious lesson in the art of war. After this battle, the bitterness caused by the German ruthlessness – particularly the use of civilians as human shields – ensured that the Norwegian’s wouldn’t hesitate to fire on the enemy again.

    Øse

    Memorial

    This memorial is located at a site called Øse, which was the site where fighting took place between the 1st and 14th of May 1940. The site is a strategically important mountain pass that the Germans were using. This is where the Norwegians fought alongside the French for the first time in the war. The goal was to clear the valley and mountain of German positions. The German troops put up a strong defence, and the area was not recaptured until the 7th of May. During the attack, the soldiers witnessed German air raids on the red-cross-labelled hospital ship, Dronning Maud, in the nearby fjord, and 19 people were killed when the ship sunk.

    Nordland County

    We cross into Nordland county. 

    Narvik Municipality

    We have now crossed into Narvik municipality. We’ll talk more specifically about the town later. The municipality is fairly large and is located in the northernmost part of Nordland county. The population is around 22,000, and it has grown by 18% over the last 10 years. The coat-of-arms represents the mountain Stetind, a well-known mountain peak in the area.

    Most of the municipality is around the Ofotfjorden and the mountain peaks here reach as high as 1,700 metres (5,600ft). Forests cover the lower parts of the mountains, but near the summits snow can stay for most of the year. Narvik is the best-known area in northern Norway for alpine skiing; some of the slopes start on top of the mountains and end near the town centre. Wreck diving attracts divers to the area as there are a lot of wrecks in the harbour.

    The economy is still largely based around iron ore, but there are some high-tech businesses in Narvik including Natach and the largest research institute in Northern Norway, Norut Narvik. Narvik was one of the first areas in the world to be affected by the financial cricis of 2007-2008 as it had invested in Citigroup securities. Narvik lost the equivalent of $18 million USD in August 2007 and the Norwegian government refused to bail them out, so Narvik was forced to implement severe budget cuts.

    Bjerkvik

    Village

    Bjerkvik is a small village with a population of 1,159. It has the European Highway 6 and the European Highway 10 running through it, making it a major junction between Harstad, Narvik and Tromsø.

    During World War II, Bjerkvik was almost destroyed by the bombardment of gunfire from allied warships that caused significant civilian casualties. A landing was conducted in the area by Franco-British forces, pushing the German forces several miles away.

    During a NATO exercise in 1986, sixteen Norwegian soldiers died in an avalanche just east of the town. Later, in 2006, two grenadiers from the Telemark battalion died of a tank accident during another NATO exercise. The tank they operated went through the ice on a swamp, and only two of the four crew managed to get out alive. The Commission of Inquiry concluded that it was human failure on the part of the crew who operated the tank. Also, they found that the crew were using old maps and that the Armed Forces had been warned against moving off the road due to little snowfall and bad ice.

    Ofotfjord

    Fjord

    The Ofotfjord is an inlet of the Norwegian Sea and a fjord that Narvik is built around. At 78km (48 mi), the Ofotfjord is Norway’s 12th longest fjord. It has depths of up to 553m (1814ft), and the mountains around the fjord reach peaks of 1500m (4900ft).

    In the fjord are huge quantities of herring staying in the fjord in the winter. The fish attract a lot of whales, notably orca. Lobsters have been occasionally observed in the fjord, making them the northernmost lobsters in the world. Cod and coalfish is the most common fish species throughout the year, while mackerel is common between July and September. White-tailed eagles and Eurasian otters are common in and around the fjord.

    The Ofotfjord was the scene of several naval battles during the Battles of Narvik in World War II. The fjord today is very popular among divers, though some of the shipwrecks are declared war graves and thus you cannot dive to them. The German destroyer Georg Thiele is still visible from the railway as it sits in the Ofotfjord. See pictures here. 

    Hålogaland Bridge

    Bridge

    This bridge crosses the Rombaksfjorden and is the second-longest bridge span in Norway. It was built to shorten the drive on the E6 between Narvik and Bjkerkvik. Financing for the bridge came from a mix of state grants and toll roads. At the time of its construction, it was the longest suspension bridge within the Arctic Circle and was featured on the Science Channel show Building Giants. The bridge officially opened on 9 December 2018.

    Narvik

    We have now arrived in Narvik! A detailed overview of Narvik can be found on the travel guide section of The Hidden North. 

    Narvik Travel Guide

    Continue the drive

    The E6 between Narvik and Mo i Rana

    Continue on the E6 south to Mo i Rana. On this part of the drive, you cross the Arctic Circle!

    Narvik to Mo i Rana

    Previous Drive

    Senja Tourist Road

    See the previous day’s drive on the Senja Tourist Road. 

    Senja Tourist Road

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Andenes, Finnsnes, National Tourist Roads, Northern Norway, Road-trips, Senja

    Drive it Yourself: The Senja Tourist Road

    Drive it Yourself: Senja Tourist Road

    Senja is the second largest island in Norway (outside of Svalbard) and is located close to the Vesterålen archipelago. The fishing industry is dominant in Senja as the waters here are some of the richest in the country. Other important industries are graphite mining and potato and potato products.

    The northern coast of Senja has open sea, while the west coast faces the islands of Andøya and Krøttøya. The west coast is famous for its steep and rugged mountains coming out from the sea, while the eastern and southern parts are milder.

    Senja has earned the nickname “Norway in miniature” because of the islands diverse scenery that reflects almost the entire span of Norwegian nature. Senja is known for its natural environment across Norway.

    In this article...

    Downloadable Version of This Guide

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

    All of our digital guides come with interactive Google maps, making your trip much easier!

    View at the Store

    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Information about facilities along the way

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the region & towns
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Facilities including supermarkets, toilets, petrol, hotels, cafes, restaurants with addresses.

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    Visit Our YouTube Channel

    The drive: Senja Tourist Road

    Gryllefjord

    Village

    This tour begins at the ferry pier at Gryllefjord. We had taken the ferry across from Andenes that morning, which is very likely how you’ll be doing the drive. 

    Gryllefjord is a small fishing village in the Senja Municipality in Troms and Finnmark. Gryllefjord has been known as a fishing village since the 17th century, and from the late 19th century the village got new steam-powered fishing vessels to take part in cod fishing.  While fishing remained after the war, in recent years the place has experienced a sharp population decline. In the 1970s, there were 1,000 people living here, while in 2021 there were only 382.

    Senja Municipality

    Senja is a municipality in Troms County, with the main town being Finnsnes. The municipality consists of the entire island of Senja (Sami name: Sážžá), some smaller surrounding islands, and a small part of the mainland. The meaning of the name is unknown, but it might relate to the verb sundra, which means ‘tear’ or ‘split apart’, referring to the fjords that cut into the island.

    Senja wins the prize for my favourite coat of arms!

    Torsken

    Village

    Torksen used to be its own municipality, but from 2020 it was merged with Senja. Torksen, which translates to “the cod” in English, is close to the rich fisheries of Vesterålen and therefore fishing is the main industry. The name, however, comes from the rock formation overlooking the village, which previously looked a bit like a cod. Unfortunately, the rock formation has since collapsed.

    The fish-rich fjord has always provided a good life for people here, and Torsken attracted many fishermen. There is still fishing here, including a salmon and trout fish farm, a salmon slaughterhouse, and a herring and white fish farm. The village has a kindergarten; the school closed a few years ago and now students attend the school in Gryllefjord.

    Torsken Church

    Torsken Church is a historic church on Senja Island. The red, wooden church dates to 1784 and seats around 100 people. The first church on the site was mentioned in 1589, but it’s likely the church was built in 1400. Many believe it was built here by fishermen around that time and reflected the wealth and interest of this area. Additionally, it probably stood several metres to the north. In 1784, the old church was torn down and replaced with the present building, but they used many of the same materials. While the church is not a museum today, it’s still worth seeing as it is one of the few historic churches here.

    To get here, you’ll see a right-hand turn off the Fv86. The drive is short but stunningly beautiful; be sure to stop for photos. 

    Senja Troll

    Monument

    The Senja Troll was an experience centre and home to the Senja Troll, which was the world’s largest troll. Unfortunately, the troll burned down in 2019 and the park has since closed. There were shops, kids playgrounds, and a café here. You’ll see the entrance to the park, but it’s abandoned today. 

    Bergsbotn

    Viewpoint

    Bergsbotn is a scenic overlook of the fjord and surrounding mountain peaks. The platform is clearly marked with roadsides and has a parking lot. 

    Bergsbotn is also a fjord arm and settlement with a tiny population – around fifty people. It is located on the innermost part of the Bergsfjord.

    Skaland

    Village

    Skaland is a small town just a few minutes off the Fv862. It has a supermarket with restrooms, so it’s a great place to stop!

    Tungeneset

    Scenic Viewpoint

    Tungeneset is one of the most scenic stops on the Senja Tourist Road. There is a walkway that takes you along the shoreline towards a view of the mountain Oksen (with the sharp peaks), also known as ‘The Devil’s Jaw’, as well as a lovely view out to the North Sea.

    Ersfjord Beach

    Beach

    Ersfjord is a picturesque beach area overlooking the peaks of Oksen and the Ersfjord. The area used to be very isolated, but since 2004 it has had a tunnel connection and is now featured as part of the Senja Tourist Road. Around 40 people live here today.

    Ersfjord is known for having one of Norway’s most expensive road toilets. Called Gulldassen, the toilet cost 3.75 million NOK to build. The toilet was built in 2014. Luckily, the toilet was praised for its design when it completed, and it has become something of an attraction. Click here to see an article (in Norwegian) about the toilet. 

    When we visited there was a school group out fishing. They offered us some of their cod, but we had no way to take it with us!

    Ersfjord is an excellent place to observe the northern lights in winter, or in summer you can swim here under the midnight sun.

    Senjahopen and Mefjordvær

    Village

    With a population of 250, Senjahopen is one of the larger villages on the island Senja. Until the tunnel was completed in 2004, Senjahopen was very isolated. Even though Skaland is 10km (6 mi) away, it took over an hour to drive. Now, as we saw, it takes about 15 minutes. The village is one of the most important fishing villages in Senja thanks to its proximity to the fishing grounds. It is also where you’ll find a lot of the tourist activities. Thanks to its location on Hopsvatnet, a bay in the Mefjorden, Senjahopen is sheltered from the weather and wind.

    About 3km (2 mi) past Senjahopen is Mefjordvær, a historic fishing village. 

    Botnhamn

    Village

    Botnhamn is a small village in Senja with a population of around 300. The village is historic; it is mentioned in 1370 as a farm, and archaeological discoveries from the Stone Age, Iron Age and Middle Ages indicate that this area has been populated for a long time.

    The most known discovery is the Silver Treasure of Botnhamn from around 1000AD. It’s a necklace and the only known one to have a rune inscription on it. The rune inscription reads “We went to Frisland and fought the warriors, and we shared the booty between us”. The treasure is on display at the Tromsø Museum.

    From Botnhamn you can take a ferry to the island of Kvaløya, which neighbours the city of Tromsø – it’s a lot quicker than driving to Finnsnes first.

    Husøy

    Village

    Husøy is a small village located on the entirety of the island of Husøy, which is in the middle of the Øyfjorden. Husøy is well-known in Norway due to its picturesque setting. The population is about 285 and the main industry here is fishing. Up until a few decades ago the only access to the island was by boat, but now there is a tunnel and 300m long road connecting the island to the mainland.

    Because Husøy is exposed to bad winds coming in from the sea, the houses on the island have to be roped to the ground. People chose to settle here because of the close proximity to the fisheries as well as the lack of risk of landslides.

    Note – if you want to explore the island, park your car off the island. There is nowhere to park on the island. 

    Gibostad

    Village

    Gibostad is a historic village on the island Senja. Gibostad was originally the centre for the municipality, before it was replaced by Finnsnes in the 1960s. Gibostad is located at the narrowest point that separates Senja from the mainland, and for a long time it was projected to become the main centre of Northern Norway. However, in 1794 Tromsø was chosen instead.

    Gibostad was originally a Hurtigruten port of call, and it was one of the first ports on the ship way back in 1838 (Hurtigruten as we know it today is from 1893, but its predecessor was operating a service in Northern Norway throughout the 19th century). This service was of crucial importance to the development of the town. A commercial centre grew in Gibostad, and in the summer there was a huge market here. Eventually everything was moved to Finnsnes, and since then Gibostad has been a small village.

    Some of the old buildings from Gibostad have been preserved, but sadly many were torn town. Ever since the 1990s there has been a renewed interest in preserving Gibostad, and a market is arranged once a year like the old times.

    Senja’s main high school is located at Gibostad, and the schools specialises in agricultural studies.

    Finnsnes

    Finnsnes is the main town for the Senja Municipality. It is not located on the island but is instead on the mainland – separated from Senja by the Gisundet straight. The Gisund Bridge connects Finnsnes to the outer suburbs Silsand and Laukhella on Senja island. The town has all the services you’d expect for a town this size, including schools, a hospital, etc.

    Finnsnes is a modern town. Over the last 100 years it has seen rapid development, largely thanks to the introduction of a Hurtigruten stop as well as increase in industry.  Finnsnes is today an important centre for transportation for Senja both on land and sea. Fishing and agriculture are still important industries, with major companies for fish processing located here. Fish farming is growing in importance.

    Finnsnes is often described as the ‘Gateway to Senja’ thanks to its proximity to the island. While Senja remains far more traditional and less developed, Finnsnes is a good alternative for staying while exploring Senja. While not as scenic as Senja, it has shopping malls, restaurants, hotels, and multiple transportation connections, making it a good place to base yourself.

    Finnsnes Travel Guide

    Continue the drive

    The E6 between Nordkjosbotn & Narvik

    Time to turn around and begin the journey south! We join with the E6 and continue south to Narvik. 

    Nordkjosbotn to Narvik

    Previous Drive

    Andøya Tourist Road

    See the previous day’s drive on the Andøya Tourist Road.

    Andøya Tourist Road

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Andenes, Harstad, National Tourist Roads, Northern Norway, Road-trips, Sortland

    Drive it Yourself: Harstad to Andenes on the Andøya Tourist Road

    Drive it Yourself: Harstad to Andenes on the Andøya Tourist Road

    This drive doesn’t have to begin in Harstad. The Andøya Tourist Road is close to the Lofoten Tourist Road, so you can easily do this from Svolvær, for example. 

    The Andøya Tourist Road is one of Norway’s most remote tourist roads, and in many ways, it feels like one of the country’s best-kept secrets. Located close to the far more famous Lofoten Islands, this road takes along the rough coastline past some of the most stunning scenery Norway has to offer.

    Andøya Island (explained in detail later in this driving guide) is a unique island. It is the only place on the Norwegian mainland where dinosaur fossils have been found, it is famous for its Arctic cloudberries, and whales, puffins and seals can be seen for large parts of the year.

    While the tourist road itself is short, the drive is well worth the time it takes to get to this remote part of the world.

    In this article...

    Downloadable Version of This Guide

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

    View at the Store

    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Information about facilities along the way

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the region & towns
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Facilities including supermarkets, toilets, petrol, hotels, cafes, restaurants with addresses.

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    Visit Our YouTube Channel

    The drive: Harstad to Andenes

    Harstad

    Harstad is the second largest city in Troms (after Tromsø). It’s a good place to spend the night thanks to its large selection of hotels and restaurants. The YouTube video begins in Harstad.

    For information about Harstad, head to the travel guide  page. 

    Harstad Travel Guide

    Sørvik

    Village

    Sørvik is a small village located close to Harstad. The village has a historical museum that opens in the summer. They’ve collected log buildings from around Harstad and recreated the museum like an old farm and village. The museum aims to show the Norwegian home and lifestyle in the 19th and early 20th century, though some of the architecture dates back to before the 19th century.

    Sandtorg

    Village

    Sandtorg is a small village with a population of around 300. It is an old settlement; there has been a trading post here since the 13th century. Sandtorg grew in importance in the 18th century when pilot services were added for foreign and local ships. The trading post lasted until 1945, when the Norwegian Amy’s communication services took over operations after German occupation. The army returned the post to civilian use in the 1990s and today the trading post still stands with a hotel and restaurant.

    In 2014, three coins from the Middle Ages and two pieces of payment silver dating to the Viking times were found here. The two coins were minted under Eirik Magnusson and date to 1285-1290. The third coin is from 1483-1513. In 2020, it was concluded that Sandtorg is the only Viking Age trading place in Northern Norway.

    You can spend the night at Sandtorgholmen Hotel, which is built on the site that has been used as the trading post since the 19th century. The original site was further north. Prices start at around 1200 NOK for a standard room for one night.

    You can visit the hotel website here: https://www.sandtorgholmen.no/?lang=en

    Tjeldsund County

    Tjeldsund Municipality

    Tjeldsund (Sami name: Dielddanuorri) is a municipality that’s part of the Ofoten traditional district and the Central Hålogaland district. The main village in the municipality is Evenskjer.  The main education and training centre for Norway’s firemen, Norges Brannskole, is in Fjelldal in Tjeldsund. A naval base is also located here at Ramsund. Besides that, there is some small industry including farming, fishing, banking, and transport.

    Kongsvik

    Village

    Kongsvika is a small village with around 300 people living there. It has cabins for rental and a petrol station. 

    Nordland County

    Nordland County

    Nordland County is located along the north-western coast of the Scandinavian peninsula. Due to its huge size and low population, it is one of the least polluted areas in Europe. The county is defined by steep mountains near the sea and a lowland area between the mountains and the sea. The Arctic Circle cuts through the county.

    Troms County

    Troms County

    We cross back into Troms County. 

    Troms County existed up until 1 January 2020, when it was merged with Finnmark County to make Troms og Finnmark. However, at time of writing, there are rumours the two will split up. So, I’m going to provide information just about Troms.

    The area has been settled since the Stone Age, and the first of the current ethnic groups to settle in the county were the Sami people. Archaeological evidence shows that a Norse-based culture existed here in the Late Roman Iron Age (200-400AD).

    The Norse settled along the coast and some of the larger fjords, while the Sami lived in some fjord areas and inland. The southern part of Troms was a petty kingdom in the Viking Age. Trondenes (today’s Harstad) was an important Viking power centre and gathering place.

    Troms takes its name from the island Tromsøya where the city Tromsø is located. The area is in the northern part of the Scandinavian peninsula, and due to its low population and distance from high density European cities, it is one of the least polluted areas in Europe.

    With its latitude of nearly 70 degrees north, the area has cool, short summers but mild winters due to the Gulf Stream. The area experiences the midnight sun between May and July and then the polar night between November and January.

    Outside of the big cities, fishing remains an important industry and there are several important fishing ports throughout the county. Tromsø is the commercial centre for the northern part of the county, while Harstad is the centre for the southern part of the county.

    Kvæfjord Municipality

    Kvæfjord (Sami: Giehtavuotna) is in the traditional region of Central Hålogaland with the main village being Borkenes. The municipality is known for its agriculture and farming, with the quality of the strawberries being particularly famous.

    The long hours of daylight and low summer temperatures are great for strawberries, making them more tasteful than berries grown in warmer climates. Potatoes are also particularly well known from this region, and the fjords are known for their good herring. Chicken farming for egg production and pig farming are also important.

    Kvæfjord is a historic region, and burial mounds and items found during excavations indicate that there have been settlements here since the Iron Age. One of the oldest farms, Vebostad, has traces from 300BC. Many of the names in the area have Iron Age and Viking Age origin. For example, Vebostad has ‘ve’ in it, which is an old word meaning sanctuary, residence, and pagan sacrificial site. Another farm, Hundstad, may be connected to the famous Viking Tore Hund.

    Sami people have lived in Kvæfjord for a very long time, but the historical information is scattered. It is known that the Sami lived along the fjords, particularly Austerfjord, as well as in the inland areas. In the Storjord area are traces of Sami settlement from the 17th to 19th centuries.

    Langvassbukta

    Village

    Kvæfjord (Sami: Giehtavuotna) is in the traditional region of Central Hålogaland with the main village being Borkenes. The municipality is known for its agriculture and farming, with the quality of the strawberries being particularly famous.

    The long hours of daylight and low summer temperatures are great for strawberries, making them more tasteful than berries grown in warmer climates. Potatoes are also particularly well known from this region, and the fjords are known for their good herring. Chicken farming for egg production and pig farming are also important.

    Kvæfjord is a historic region, and burial mounds and items found during excavations indicate that there have been settlements here since the Iron Age. One of the oldest farms, Vebostad, has traces from 300BC. Many of the names in the area have Iron Age and Viking Age origin. For example, Vebostad has ‘ve’ in it, which is an old word meaning sanctuary, residence, and pagan sacrificial site. Another farm, Hundstad, may be connected to the famous Viking Tore Hund.

    Sami people have lived in Kvæfjord for a very long time, but the historical information is scattered. It is known that the Sami lived along the fjords, particularly Austerfjord, as well as in the inland areas. In the Storjord area are traces of Sami settlement from the 17th to 19th centuries.

    Sortland Municipality

    Sortland (Sami name: Suortá) Municipality is part of the traditional region of Vesterålen. It is located in the southern part of Vesterålen on the islands Langøya and Hinnøya, and the municipality surrounds the inner part of the Eidsfjorden and the Sortland Strait. The midnight sun occurs from 23 May to 23 July, while the polar night is from 30 November to 12 January. The region is popular for observing the northern lights.

    History

    The region is mentioned in the Viking Sagas, where it is written as the home of Karle and Gunnstein, who took part in Tore Hund’s campaign against King Olav. The first church is mentioned in written sources in 1370.

    Yacht skipper Søren Mørch from Bergen settled here and started a yacht trade in 1659. This is the year Sortland is considered to be founded.

    Industry

    Sortland is home to the Coast Guard Base in Norway. Tourism is also important, as is agriculture. Parts of the municipality were known in the latter half of the 19th century as one of Norway’s best regions for herring. The herring adventure here helped lay the foundation or the establishment of Hurtigruten. While the herring aren’t as plentiful as back then, there are still fishing in Sortland.

    Sami Activity

    Sortland has a small Sami population. A Sami family runs reindeer herding on Hinnøya. There used to be a reindeer husbandry, but it was closed in 1972. Some place names in the region come from Sami words.

    Culture

    Sortland is regarded as one of the best music communities in Norway and the local band Madrugada has been one of the best in the country. The Sortland Jazz Festival takes place every autumn, and some of the world’s leading jazz musicians have taken part.

    Sortland is the only municipality in Vesterålen that has seen a stable increase in the popular over the past 25 years.

    Sortland

    If you want to go into Sortland, you’ll take the Sortland Bridge across the town (instead of continuing straight towards Andøya). You come to this junction as you are crossing through the village Strand (you see Sortland across the strait and you see the massive bridge well in advance). 

    Sortland has a population of around 5,500 and is the largest town and commercial centre in Vesterålen.

    As you drive through Sortland, you will notice many of the buildings are painted blue. The local artist Bjørn Elvenes came up with the idea to bring colour into the city and attract tourists too. The idea wasn’t too popular amongst the locals, but it was adopted as a millennium project by the city. However, it didn’t go very well. Elvenes wanted more artistic control in creating Sortland into a 3D-like painting, while the architects wanted to use colour to highlight the features of the buildings.

    Elvenes fell out with the council and began to cooperate with the buildings directly, while others chose the councils plans. Because of that, the blue buildings are not as unified as they could be. Not all the buildings are blue, but enough of them are that you’ll wonder what’s going on.

    Sortland has a massive shopping mall, Sortland Storsenter, where you’ll be able to buy groceries, alcohol, clothing, cosmetics, etc. If you need anything, I recommend stopping here as Andenes doesn’t have so much. There are also cafes, restaurants, takeaway and petrol stations in Sortland. 

    Sortland Travel Guide

    Andøy Municipality

    Andøy is the northernmost municipality in Nordland, and forms part of the Vesterålen archipelago. The population of Andøya has decreased by 6.8% over the last ten years, and the main settlement is Andenes. The meaning of Andøy is unknown, though the last element means ‘island’.

    The municipality is spread across the island of Andøya and Hinnøya. The mid-section has bogs and marshes known for their Arctic cloudberries, and there are numerous lakes here too. The island is the only place in continental Norway where coal and fossils from dinosaurs are found. The Forfjorddalen nature reserve has some of the oldest pine trees in Scandinavia – some are more than 700 years old. Andøys is also the place where Egga, the edge of the continental shelf, is closest to the land.

    The municipality has a strong connection to aviation, with the 333 Squadron of the Air Force being stationed at Andøya Airport. The Andøya Space Centre is involved in international cooperation of the polar atmosphere and the northern lights. Andøya Airport is proposed to be closed by 2025, with air traffic moving to Evenes Airport.

    The fishing industry is still important to the municipality, and Andenes is one of the country’s largest fishing harbours and one of Northern Europe’s largest port facilities.

    Forfjord

    Village

    The name of the village is Forfjord, which comes from the name of the fjord the village is built around. The nature reserve here has the oldest living pine trees in Northern Europe, with some of them dating back to 830 AD. It is assumed that the forest was a source of timber and tar for Viking ships, and there are settlements and burial sites that are yet to be excavated.

    A famous person in Norwegian exploration came from Forfjord: Hans Jørgen Furfjord. He led the first expedition to stay the winter on Svalbard to hunt silver foxes, walruses, seals and polar bears. Items from his expeditions are on display in museums in Tromsø and Svalbard. Hans also kept diaries describing his adventures, including European monarchs visiting, his being imprisoned by British soldiers for not supplying them for free, barely surviving polar bear encounters, and surviving not freezing to death. He died at the age of 81 at his home in Forfjord. Some of his children emigrated to Canada and the United States, where some of his descendants live today. Some remain in Forfjord.  

    Risøyhamn

    Village

    Risøyhamn is a small village located on the island Andøya. It has a population of 216 and is serviced by the Hurtigruten twice a day – if you take the Hurtigruten southbound you see the village around 11:30am. There are many older buildings in Risøyhamn, including Gammelg ården from the early 18th century. There is a small open-air museum here with five buildings. Click here to view a website about the buildings (in Norwegian only). 

    Andøya Tourist Road

    Bjørnskinn

    Village

    Bjørnskinn is a small settlement with the Bjørnskinn church. The church was in use in 1589, but it was not new then. The church was replaced in 1740 and again in 1885.

    Bukkekjerka

    Rest Stop

    Bukkekjerka is a rest stop and rock formation that was historically a Sami sacrificial site. The word Bukkekjerka, which is a Sami word, refers to crevice (bohki) and rock (giergie). Several tracks lead to the top of the rock, where there is a small bench.

     

    There used to be a fishing village here called Børvågen that was very active during the herring fisheries period, but the town was reduced to rubble in a huge storm in 1879. Remains of Iron Age buildings, burial mounds and boat landings have been found in the area.

     

    There are toilets here, too. They are open from mid-May until the end of September. The rest area won an architecture design prize in 2018.

    Nordmela

    Village

    Nordmela is a fishing village with about 120 inhabitants. There are written sources that people have lived here since the 16th century, but there are findings from the Stone Age in the area. The area used to be a stronger fishing village, but one of the main companies went bankrupt in 2009. The local school closed down in 2008.

    Måtinden

    Mountain

    Måtinden is 408m (2000ft) high and the walking path is about 4km each way. The hike is not demanding, but some sections are a little steep.

    Read more about the mountain by clicking here. 

    Bleik

    Village

    Bleik is a small fishing village with a population of around 460. Bleik has one of the longest beaches in Norway, and it’s believed that’s where the village gets its name (bleik = white/pale). It’s believed people have lived here for a very long time, as an old farm mound can be traced back to 600AD and has a depth of 6 metres.

    15km offshore from the beach is the Bleik Canyon, a deep canyon with depths of up to 3000m. It’s common to see sperm whales here, which is why Andøya is known for its whale safaris.

    There is a triangle shaped island off the coast called Bleiksøya, and that’s where you can see puffins – it is the largest resort for puffins in Norway. These puffins are highly endangered due to the white-tailed eagle and the golden eagle, which are also often spotted here. The puffins are here from mid-April until mid-August, and puffin safaris can be taken from Bleik, which is what we did!

    Andøya Space

    Space centre

    Shortly after Bleik you’ll pass a large complex on your left; this is Andøya Space. It’s a rocket launch site, rocket range and space port. Over 1,200 sounding and sub-orbital rockets of various configurations have been launched from the site. The centre is also used for observing and studying the northern lights. Andøya Space has worked with the likes of ESA, NASA, JAXA and national and international universities.

    Andenes

    Andenes is a small fishing community located on the top of Andøya. The village is known as being one of the best places to set off on a whale safari, and it has a direct ferry connection to the famous Senja Island, which we will be taking the following day.

    You can read all about Andenes on the travel guide section of the website. 

    Andenes Travel Guide

    Continue the drive

    Senja Tourist Road

    It is an absolute must to combine the Andøya Tourist Road with the Senja Tourist Road!

    Senja Tourist Road

    Previous Drive

    The Lofoten Islands Part 2: Svolvær to Harstad

    See the previous day’s drive through the Lofoten Islands. 

    Lofoten Islands Part Two

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • European Highways, Harstad, Lofoten Islands, National Tourist Roads, Road-trips, Svolvaer

    Drive it Yourself: The Lofoten Islands Part 2: Svolvær to Harstad

    Drive it Yourself: The Lofoten Islands Part 2: Svolvær to Harstad

    The Lofoten Islands is probably one of the most famous places in Norway. Many people making the trip here want to head to Lofoten, and rightly so. Steep mountain peaks rise out of the ocean forming the Lofoten archipelago, one of the most scenic places in Norway. For thousands of years fishermen have lived at the foot of these peaks, building now iconic rorbuer and living off the cod fishing season. This history survives today on Lofoten, and you get to explore it with this road-trip!

    This road-trip is part one of two parts and takes you from Å in the south to Svolvær, which is a little over halfway up the archipelago.

    In this article...

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    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Information about facilities along the way

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the region & towns
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Facilities including supermarkets, toilets, petrol, hotels, cafes, restaurants with addresses.

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    Begin: Svolvær

    With a population of 4,720, Svolvær is the largest city in the Lofoten Islands. The settlement is old; Svolvær was first mentioned in 1567. However, Svolvær didn’t gain prominence until the early 20th century when the motorized boats needed a modern harbour.

    The cod fisheries are still an important industry in Svolvær, but tourism is one of the main industries in the city. Svolvær is also a major transportation hub and favourite starting point for tourists. The Hurtigruten also stops here twice a day. It is possible to do sea eagle safaris, whale watching tours, and take a scenic cruise into the nearby Trollfjord. Svolvær also has a downhill skiing centre. In town, you’ll find the Lofoten War Memorial Museum a Magic Ice Bar, and numerous galleries.

    Svolvær Travel Guide

    Svolvær Airport

    Airport

    Svolvær Airport is a regional airport in Lofoten. While it is one of the main airports for Lofoten, it is likely not the one you will fly to if you are flying to Lofoten – instead, it’s better to fly to Harstad/Narvik and drive from there. Svolvær Airport is served by Widerøe and the routes are subsidized by the government with direct flights to Bodø, Oslo, and small communities in Nordland county. There are plans to make a new primary airport to serve the Lofoten and Vesterålen region, making it more attractive to visit out of the tourist season.

    Austnesfjorden

    Photo Stop

    The Austnesfjorden Photo Stop is located shortly after Svolvær Airport. The view is excellent over the fjord and you can see Sildpollnes Church in the distance.

    Sildpollnes Church is a small white wooden church from 1891. The church had some drama recently, when the current neighbour refused to let people through his property to get to the church because he said the 1890 agreement stated people could pass on foot, but it didn’t mention automobiles. The church closed in 2015 and the case went to court, with the neighbour loosing and the Lofoten District Court ruling in favour of the church.

    At the photo stop they have a place you can walk up to with a viewing platform. I’ve used a photo of it at the top of this page. This is where you get the view out to the church. 

    Hadsel Municipality

    Hadsel municipality is located on four main islands in Vesterålen – Hinnøya, Langøya, Hadseløya, and Austvågøya.

    Hadsel has been an important hub for the fishing industry, and due to its proximity to Lofoten has always been an important trading place for Lofoten residents. The oldest settlements were likely on the southern side of Hadseløya, but the main harbour has always been Stokmarknes.

    The name “Hadsel” comes from the Old Norse word “Hovdasegl”, meaning “main sail”. The name describes that Hadseløya can look like a merged mainsail on a Nordland boat when you see Hadseløya from Langøya. The Sami name for Hadsel is Ulpesuohkan, referring to the old name for the area (Ulvøya).

    The main airport here is the Stokmarknes Airport, the busiest small aircraft airport in Norway. Stokmarknes is also the birthplace of Hurtigruten, the Norwegian coastal ferry.

    The coat of arms represents four yellow rings, representing the four main islands the municipality is on.

    Vesterålen

    Traditional Region

    Many people confuse Vesterålen for Lofoten, but in fact they are two different areas. 

    Vesterålen is an archipelago between Lofoten and the Norwegian mainland. Many assume that the whole area is just Lofoten, but it’s just the southern half of the islands. The name “Vesterålen” means “western strait”. The landscape here is very mountainous, but the mountains are more rounded than Lofoten. The towns and villages are on the coastal brim between the mountains and the fjords. Fishing, in particular cod fisheries, has always been important to Vesterålen. Today there is also fish farming and some agriculture in the area.

    Hinnøya

    Island

    Hinnøya is the fourth largest island in Norway, and the largest out of Svalbard. The island has several fjords and typically has a mountainous and rugged terrain. There are also valleys and lakes; the treeline is around 400m above sea level.

    Lødingen Municipality

    Lødingen (Sami name: Lodek) is a region on the southwestern part of the island Hinnøya and it is part of the traditional district called Ofoten. While not technically part of Vesterålen, it does participate in councils with the municipalities in Vesterålen.

    The most historically important place in Lødingen is Hjertholmen, a farm and meeting place for residents and visitors. It was owned by the Lødingen Prestegård (rectory) in 1860, and a lighthouse was also built on the site along with the guardhouse and telegraph office. Today the place is used as a gathering place for schools, kindergartens, and visitors. The site is located in Lødingen village.

    Another important site is Hustad gård, which was a large Viking farm 1,000 years ago. The museum tells the story of agricultural history, but there is also a cultural path that follows the Iron Age settlement. The main church, Lødingen Church, is built on the site of the first church in the area, built in the 13th century.

    The tallest mountain in Lødingen is the mountain Møysalen, which is 1263m above sea level making it the second highest mountain peak on an island in Norway.

    Lødingen is known as “Biketown” because it has several annual bike races. The Lødingen Cycling Club is Norway’s largest cycling club in terms of population. Lofoten Insomnia is a race that begins in Å (at the far end of Lofoten) and ends in Lødingen.

    Another important event here is the Seafood Festival with concerts and an excellent selection of seafood. Sailboats from all over the country visit the festival, which takes place in the early summer.

    Troms County

    Troms County existed up until 1 January 2020, when it was merged with Finnmark County to make Troms og Finnmark. However, at time of writing, there are rumours the two will split up. So, I’m going to provide information just about Troms.

    The area has been settled since the Stone Age, and the first of the current ethnic groups to settle in the county were the Sami people. Archaeological evidence shows that a Norse-based culture existed here in the Late Roman Iron Age (200-400AD). The Norse settled along the coast and some of the larger fjords, while the Sami lived in some fjord areas and inland. The southern part of Troms was a petty kingdom in the Viking Age. Trondenes (today’s Harstad) was an important Viking power centre and gathering place.

    Troms takes its name from the island Tromsøya where the city Tromsø is located. The area is in the northern part of the Scandinavian peninsula, and due to its low population and distance from high density European cities, it is one of the least polluted areas in Europe.

    With its latitude of nearly 70 degrees north, the area has cool, short summers but mild winters due to the Gulf Stream. The area experiences the midnight sun between May and July and then the polar night between November and January.

    Outside of the big cities, fishing remains an important industry and there are several important fishing ports throughout the county. Tromsø is the commercial centre for the northern part of the county, while Harstad is the centre for the southern part of the county.

    Kvæfjord Municipality

    Kvæfjord (Sami: Giehtavuotna) is in the traditional region of Central Hålogaland with the main village being Borkenes. The municipality is known for its agriculture and farming, with the quality of the strawberries being particularly famous. The long hours of daylight and low summer temperatures are great for strawberries, making them more tasteful than berries grown in warmer climates. Potatoes are also particularly well known from this region, and the fjords are known for their good herring. Chicken farming for egg production and pig farming are also important.

    Kvæfjord is a historic region, and burial mounds and items found during excavations indicate that there have been settlements here since the Iron Age. One of the oldest farms, Vebostad, has traces from 300BC. Many of the names in the area have Iron Age and Viking Age origin. For example, Vebostad has ‘ve’ in it, which is an old word meaning sanctuary, residence, and pagan sacrificial site. Another farm, Hundstad, may be connected to the famous Viking Tore Hund.

    On the mountain Melåaksla, over 30 shooting shelters have been found on an inaccessible mountain path that the reindeer use as a migration route. As many as 40-50 people were involved in reindeer hunting here.

    Sami people have lived in Kvæfjord for a very long time, but the historical information is scattered. It is known that the Sami lived along the fjords, particularly Austerfjord, as well as in the inland areas. In the Storjord area are traces of Sami settlement from the 17th to 19th centuries.

    Kvæfjord is the home of the Kvæfjord Cake, the Norwegian national cake. The cake is a sponge cake baked with meringue, vanilla cream, and almonds.

    Boazovazzi

    Shop

    On the right is Boazovazzi, a shop where you can buy Sami products. The name is the Sami word for ‘Reindeer herder’ and here you can buy reindeer meat or Sami handicrafts. They also have six rooms for rent. Put the name of the shop in Google and check them out!

    Tjeldsund Municipality

    Tjeldsund (Sami name: Dielddanuorri) is a municipality that’s part of the Ofoten traditional district and the Central Hålogaland district. The main village in the municipality is Evenskjer.  The main education and training centre for Norway’s firemen, Norges Brannskole, is in Fjelldal in Tjeldsund. A naval base is also located here at Ramsund. Besides that, there is some small industry including farming, fishing, banking, and transport.

    Kongsvika

    Village

    Kongsvika is a small village with around 300 people living there. It has cabins for rental and the first petrol station we’ve seen in a while! It’s a good place to stop for a break. 

    Sandtorg

    Village

    Sandtorg is a small village with a population of around 300. It is an old settlement; there has been a trading post here since the 13th century. Sandtorg grew in importance in the 18th century when pilot services were added for foreign and local ships. The trading post lasted until 1945, when the Norwegian Amy’s communication services took over operations after German occupation. The army returned the post to civilian use in the 1990s and today the trading post still stands with a hotel and restaurant.

    In 2014, three coins from the Middle Ages and two pieces of payment silver dating to the Viking times were found here. The two coins were minted under Eirik Magnusson and date to 1285-1290. The third coin is from 1483-1513. In 2020, it was concluded that Sandtorg is the only Viking Age trading place in Northern Norway.

    You can spend the night at Sandtorgholmen Hotel, which is built on the site that has been used as the trading post since the 19th century. The original site was further north. Prices start at around 1200 NOK for a standard room for one night.

    You can visit the hotel website here: https://www.sandtorgholmen.no/?lang=en

    Sørvik

    Village

    Sørvik is a small village located close to Harstad. The village has a historical museum that opens in the summer. They’ve collected log buildings from around Harstad and recreated the museum like an old farm and village. The museum aims to show the Norwegian home and lifestyle in the 19th and early 20th century, though some of the architecture dates back to before the 19th century.

    Harstad

    Harstad is the second most populated city in Troms after Tromsø, with a population of 24,703.

    The oldest part of Harstad is the area Trondenes, which is mentioned in the Heimskringla (King’s Sagas) as a power centre in the Viking Age and a place to meet and discuss important issues. It wasn’t a trading place; Sandtorg is the only known Viking Age trading place in Northern Norway. It is possible to visit Trondenes, and that’s where we are going!

    Harstad city didn’t grow until the late 19th and early 20th centuries, when it emerged as an important trading place with a large harbour for ships. The city experienced rapid expansion with the introduction of steam ships.

    Harstad Travel Guide

    Continue the drive

    Andøya Tourist Road

    Visit Norway’s most remote tourist road at the end of the world!

    Andøya Tourist Road

    Previous Drive

    The Lofoten Islands Part 1: Å to Svolvær

    See the previous day’s drive through the lower part of Lofoten

    Å to Svolvær

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!