Emma

Hey! My name is Emma. I'm from Australia but have lived in Bergen, Norway, for the last eight years. I work as a local guide and tour leader for all over Northern Europe. The Hidden North is an online travel guide I have made to help you plan your own visit here.

  • Drive it Yourself: E6 from Mo i Rana to Trondheim

    Drive it Yourself: E6 from Mo i Rana to Trondheim

    The E6 (European Highway 6) is the main highway that runs through Norway. This section, from Mo i Rana to Trondheim, runs primarily through the county of Trøndelag. While not as dramatic as some other stretches of road on the E6, it’s the way between central Norway and Northern Norway, and there are some nice places to stop along the way. 

    You’ll probably use this road if you are looking to get to Northern Norway quickly. Sure, the coastal road is much more scenic, but the E6 is much quicker. There are some beautiful spots to stop at along the way, which I’ve done my best to highlight below. 

    In this article...

    Downloadable Version of This Guide

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

    Online Guide

    Downloadable Guide

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    The E6 Between Mo i Rana & Trondheim

    Mo i Rana

    This drive begins in Mo i Rana. You can find a detailed overview of Mo i Rana on our travel guide. 

    Hemnes Municipality

    Hemnes Municipality is located in Nordland County . The municipality focuses on agriculture, power production, the mechanical industry, wood products and boat building. The coat of arms represents this industry with a boat clamp in gold against a blue backdrop.

    Hemnes has the oldest operating local radio network in Norway, called Radio Korgen, which was established in 1982.

    Finneidfjord

    Village

    Finneidfjord is a small settlement. The name comes from its Sami heritage; Finniedt was a Sami farm first mentioned in 1567. The settlement saw growth starting in 1925 with the establishment of a margarine factory. The margarine factory was very well-known in Norway until it was bought out and closed in 1973. A caviar factory was built on the same site and operated until 2007, when it closed down.

    Bjerka

    Town

    Bjerka is a small town located at the mouth of the river Røssåga. One of the main employers in town is the slaughterhouse, which slaughters cattle, pugs and sheep producing dry beef and pork ribs. Since 2008, it has been the only slaughterhouse in Nordland County. About 90 employees work here.  

    Korgen

    Town

    Korgen is the main town for Hemnes municipality. Many Norwegians have heard of Korgen because of the Korgenfjellet mountain range, which is perfect for skiing. Because of that, the town is quite popular for people staying for a few days to take advantage of the mountains. The tallest mountain in Northern Norway, Oksskolten, is located here. Korgen is also close to the Okstindan Nature and Culture Park.

    The Okstindan Nature and Culture Park is a centre full of hiking trails, ski trails, and history. It includes the “Blood Trail”, which chronicles the Nazi’s attempt to construct a railway to Narvik and the Soviet POWs tasked with building the railway. There are also glaciers and caves to explore.

    You can easily spend a few days here if you love the outdoors. Visit the park website for more detailed information about what you can see and do. https://visitokstindan.com/en/kategori/the-okstindan-nature-and-cultural-park/

    Sandnessjøen

    Sandnessjøen is a charming little town located on the Hegleland Coastal Road (one of Norway’s 18 National Tourist Roads). It’s a lovely place to visit, but the detour can be a little lengthy. It takes about 45 minutes to get there from the E6, but you’d want to spend a little time in the area driving around to see the Seven Sisters and surrounding region.

    You can learn about Sandnessjøen by reading my travel guide (to the left). 

    Vefsn Municipality

    Vefsn is a municipality with arguably the best coat-of-arms in Norway – a surprised chicken! The name Vefsn comes from the river Vefsna, which flows through the municipality into the Vefsnfjorden. The meaning of the name is unknown.

    The main town centre for Vefsn is Mosjøen, a town a highly recommend visiting on this drive. The landscape is dominated by spruce forests, mountains, lakes, agriculture, and the river.

    This area is very old; there are traces of settlement in Vefsn back to the Stone Age. Among other things, Norway’s oldest skis have been found in Drevja. Vefsn also appears in the story of how Torolv Kveldulvsson demanded the ‘Finn treasure’ in Egils saga, and the road where this supposedly took place is now called “Toraveien”.

    Mosjøen

    Mosjøen is an adorable small town located on the Helgeland coast, and I highly recommend visiting here. It is, in fact, the oldest town in Helgeland (the name of the traditional region in) and the second-oldest town in Nordland County after Bodø. Mosjøen was declared a trading place in 1875 and has historically been an important industrial and transportation town. Many of the original wooden buildings are still standing today, making it a charming town to go walking through.

    Grane Municipality

    Grane (Sami name: Gaala) is a small municipality within Nordland County. It is located in the southernmost part of Nordland County, and it links Nordland with the next county, Trøndelag. The main town for Grane is Trofors, which we’ll drive through.

    The name Grane comes from an old farm that used to be here. The farm is known from the Middle Ages, but it rose to prominence in the 17th century. The main industries here are agriculture, forestry, and some reindeer husbandry. Grane is one of the southernmost settlements of the Sami people, and about 10 reindeer husbandry units operate here.

    Laksforsen

    Cafe

    Soon after the Grane municipality sign is Laksforsen, a rest stop and cafe. It is located by a waterfall and has lovely views out to Vefsna river. 

    You can visit their website here. 

    Vefsna River

    River

    The Vefsna River (Sami name: Vaapstenjeanoe) is the largest river in Nordland County – about 163km (101 mi) long. The river flows north, not far from the Swedish border. At Mosjøen, the river empties into the Vefsnfjord.

    Historically Vefsna was known for its salmon, but due to a parasite the salmon population have declined. So, while salmon fishing can’t be done here anymore, it is still possible to fish for trout and char. A fishing licence is required to fish here.

    Brønnøysund

    Trofors is located at the junction between the E6 and Highway 73, which runs between Brønnøysund and Sweden. Both are about 40 minutes from this junction, and each is a great detour.

    I’ve covered Brønnøysund at the travel guide section. 

    Trofors

    Village

    Trofors (Sami name: Trovvegarse) is the main centre for Grane. It is located at the main junction between the European Highway 6 and the Norwegian National Road 73, which runs between Brønnøysund and Tårnaby in Sweden. The town is primarily an agricultural town, but there are over 2,000 fishing lakes here too, making it great for fishing.

    Majavatn

    Village

    Majavatn (Sami name: Maajehjaevrie) is a small village at the bottom of Grane municipality. It has a substaintial Sami settlement who work with reindeer husbandry. Majavatn is also known from World War II. There were confrontations between the Germans and the Norwegian citizens at a nearby farm, and many of the Norwegians involved were later executed by Germans at Falstad concentration camp in 1942.

    Crossing into Trøndelag

    County Border

    As you leave Nordland County there is a fun sign over the highway with ‘Trøndelag’ on the side we are going and ‘Nord Norge’ on the opposite side, signifying the boundary between Trøndelag County and Norland County. There is a carpark by the sign so you can take some photos, and there’s also a rest area.

    Trøndelag Municipality

    We have now crossed into Trøndelag County, which is in the central part of Norway. A person from Trøndelag is known as a trønder, which the dialect here is called trøndersk.

    People have lived in Trøndelag for thousands of years, and during the Iron Age Trøndelag was divided into several petty kingdoms, each with their own common law and all sharing the parliament or thing called Frostating. This is sometimes regarded as the first real democracy.

    Trøndelag was well-known during the Viking Age, and many of Norway’s most famous Vikings lived here. Before the capital was moved to Bergen in 1214, Trøndelag was the site of many of the famous palaces and residences of the Kings. When Bergen (and eventually Oslo) became the capital, Trøndelag’s importance in Norway declined. Today Trøndelag is known for its well-preserved Viking history and the Nidaros Cathedral, located in Trondheim.

    The proximity to Sweden has led to conflicts over the years. Trøndelag was briefly ceded to Sweden in 1658 in the Treaty of Roskilde. It was returned to Denmark-Norway after the Treaty of Copenhagen in 1660. Another attempt was made in 1718 by the Swedes to take Trøndelag, but they were not successful.

    Trøndelag has a diverse climate and geography. Along the coast are the largest islands in Norway south of the Arctic Circle. The south-western part of Trøndelag is separated from Norway by large mountain ranges, especially the Dovrefjell and Trollheimen Mountain Ranges. Closer to the Swedish border the land flattens into a high valley, where Røros is located. In the north, there are several large valleys and flatlands. The rivers in Trøndelag are among the best salmon rivers in Eruope.

    The climate varies dramatically depending on where in the county you are. Closer to the sea has a oceanic climate with mild, wet winters, while closer to the Swedish border are some of the lowest temperatures in Norway during winter. Røros, for example, is the only place in south-central Norway to have recorded -50C (-58F). Most of the lowland areas have a humid continental climate, while the inland valleys, hills and highlands have a boreal climate.

    Trøndelag is primarily an agricultural region, with some of the most fertile land in Norway. Most of the production is meat and milk. Other traditional industries are forestry, mining, and fishing. Today Trøndelag has significant hydropower and wind power companies that support power-intensive industries such as the various timber mills. Aquaculture countes for half of Trøndelag’s export value. The oil and gas industry is also significant. Trondheim is a centre for higher education and has the largest educational institution at the country’s largest university, NTNU.

    The region is known for its moonshine homebrew, known as heimbrent. It is officially banned, but the art of producing moonshine has a strong following in parts of Trøndelag. Traditionally the spirit is served mixed with coffee to create a drink called karsk. The official dish is sodd, made from diced sheep or beef meat and meatballs in boiled stock. The Norwegian Grey Troender sheep is an endangered breed of domesticated sheep originally from Trøndelag. There are approximately 50 sheep left, and efforts are being made to revive the breed.

    Nammskogan Municipality

    We are currently in the upper part of the Namdalen valley, and the municipality takes its name from this. The municipality is heavily forested with several large lakes and the river Namsen running through it.

    Namdalen (Sami name: Nååmesjevuemie) is also the name of the traditional district here. There are three towns here: Namsos, Rørvik and Kolvereid. The rest are small villages and settlements. The river Namsen is one of the best salmon rivers in Europe (only the Tana River in Finnmark has a larger catch of salmon). Agriculture and forestry are also, understandable, important to Namdalen. Norway spruce is the main tree species.

    Namsen River

    River

    The Namsen River (Sami name: Nååmesje) is one of the longest rivers in Trøndelag – around 228km (142 mi) long. It has traditionally been used for floating timber down from the forests to the town of Namsos, where the sawmills were located. The river begins in springs in the Børgefjell National Park and travels through the valley, ending at the coast in Namsos. It is considered one fo the best Atlantic Salmon fishing rivers in the world and is often called the ’Queen of Rivers’. Catching salmon that weigh 23kg (51lb) is not unusual.

    Børgefjellet National Park

    National Park (Detour)

    Børgefjellet National Park is a scenic off-the-beaten path national park with high mountains, rivers, and mountain lakes. The landscape has remnants of Sami domestic reindeer herding, which continues still today. It is a place to go fishing or take some lovely hikes. It is a largely undeveloped area with virtually no construction activity. If you do want to spend some time here, you need to be aware of where you are and camp in the area. The park is located in the centre of Norway along the Swedish border and is also home to the Scandinavian Mountain range.

    Brekkvasselv

    Village

    Brekkvasselv is a tiny village in Namsdalen. The village is also known as Ælva, and a person from Brekkvasselv is known as an Ælving. The first peoples settled here in the 20th century, coming from other places in Norway. However, the Sami have been here for thousands of years, and reindeer herding took place in the highlands.

    The people who came here in the 20th century came because they were helping with the construction of the Nordlandsbanen, and if they settled here they were offered free plots of land to build on.

    Grong Municipality

    Grong (Sami name: Kråangke) is a municipality in Trøndelag with Medjå being the main town. The name comes from an old farm, and the first element is an Old Norse word for spruce. This is also represented on the coat-of-arms; the three spruce trees represent the three main villages in the municipality.

    One of the main waterfalls here is Fiskumfoss, an economically important waterfall that is used for power production. There is also a salmon ladder here. A salmon aquarium has been built by the waterfall, where you can sit and eat salmon while watching the waterfall. The building also has the Norwegian Sport Fishing History Museum. Burial mounds are also found throughout the area from the older Iron Age, and there are ancient moose hunting grounds, house foundations, and roads.

    Medjå/Grong

    Village

    We are passing the village of Medjå, which is sometimes called Grong. It is a small village with a petrol station and supermarket.

    Snåsa Municipality

    Snåsa (South Sami: Snåase) is a small but important municipality: it is one of the last strongholds of the seriously endangered Southern Sami language. In Snåsa you’ll find the Saemien Sijte, which is the national museum of South Sami history and culture. The goal of the museum is to strengthen South Sami identity and a sense of community. Next to the museum is a primary school that teaches the South Sami language.

    The coat-of-arms represents a yellow Lady Slipper orchid on a blue background. At least 15 species of orchid have been found growing in Snåsa, and they are known as some of the magnificent orchids in Scandinavia.

    Snåsavatnet / Snåsa Lake

    Lake

    The lake we see straight ahead is Snåsavatnet, the sixth-largest lake in Norway at 122km2 (47 sq mi). The lake reaches depths of up to 186m (610ft) and was made by glacial erosion.

    Egge

    Historic Site (Detour)

    We are passing the exit to Egge. Egge is a known Viking town, and it was home to the powerful chieftains who gathered the peasants to fight against Olav Haraldsson in the Battle of Stiklestad in 1030.

    The museum has a reconstructed manor and fun activities for kids. For the adults, the cultural landscape is preserved and there are a number of hiking trails you can take to enjoy the ancient scenery.

    Click here to read more. 

    Steinkjer Municipality

    Steinkjer is one of the larger municipalities in the region, though its population density is very low, with just 12.6 inhabitants per sq km (33 sq mi). The population has increased by 2.4% over the last 10 years. The coat-of-arms shows a verranjekt, a type of boat that is very common in the area. It’s a new coat-of-arms from 2020.

    The area around Steinkjer is historic – it has been populated since the Stone Age. Rock carvings can be seen in the area, and the oldest are 6,000 years old. During the Viking Age, Steinkjer was an important base and Maere was one of the best known religious places with sacrifices and gatherings before Christianity came to the country.

    The town of Steinkjer was sadly bombed during World War II. The attack destroyed a large part of Steinkjer, and many priceless historic buildings, including the church, were lost. The town was quickly rebuilt after the war with the help of aid from the United States. Much of the architecture found in Steinkjer is from the 1950s and 1960s and is inspired by functionalism. One of the few buildings to survive the bombing is the train station, which is designed in art nouveau.

    Steinkjer is one of the northernmost areas with rich agriculture, allowing large production of grain. You’ll notice as you drive through just how important grain production is to the area. Tall grain silos can be seen all over the landscape.

    Inderøy Municipality

    Inderøy is an agricultural municipality located in North Trøndelag. The municipality has been inhabited since the Middle Ages, and the village of Sakshaug used to be an important political centre. It is home to one of the oldest churches in the area, Old Sakshaug Church, from 1184.

    The coat-of-arms shows the European plaice. The fish was once plentiful int he waters and was one of the main sources of income in the area until around 1940. Fishing is still important to the region. Farming is also very important to the area, and most of the municipality is cultivated. Grass and grain are the most common crops, but strawberries are also common. Most farmers have their own forest, too.

    The population density is 19.4 inhabitants per sq km (50/sq mi). The population has increased by 15.9% over the last 10 years.

    One of the most prominent 20th century Norwegian sculptors, Nils Aas, is from this area.

    Verdal Municipality

    People have lived at Verdal since the Stone Age, and there are farms in the region that are mentioned as far back as the 12th century. The municipality is best known for the site Stiklestad, where we are heading to next.

    A unique word to learn for this area is råning. It refers to all the young people here who are interested in cars. They spend a lot of their time improving or styling their cars and then driving them on a particular route to show them off.

    The economy here is supported by the offshore industry as well as agriculture. Verdal is also known as one of the greatest lottery towns of Norway, with several lottery grand prizes going to people living in Verdal.

    Stiklestad

    Historic Site (Detour)

    Stiklestad is one of the most important religious sites in the country. It is where, in 1030, St. Olav fell in battle during the Battle of Stiklestad. His sainthood arose from this death.

    Today Stiklestad feels like a bit of a tourist trap – they’ve built up all these new centres, exhibitions and hotels in the last 20 years – but there’s still historical interest in visiting here.

    You can read my separate guide to Stiklestad below.

    Levanger Town Centre

    Town

    Shortly after the Falstad Centre, we pass turn-offs to Levanger. If you want to visit the main street, just follow signs towards Levanger. I mentioned the history of Levanger town centre in the section about Levanger municipality.

    Munkeby Abbey Ruins

    Historic Site (Detour)

    Just after Levanger town is the turn-off to the ruins of Munkeby Abbey. It’s just a short drive from the E6, and is a nice area to go to stretch your legs.

    The Munkeby Abbey was founded some time between 1150 and 1180 and it was the most northly Cistercian foundation in the world. It was likely built by English monks. The monastery was eventually closed down, though the church was used until 1587.

    Falstad Centre

    WWWII Site (Detour)

    You can visit the Falstad Centre, which is an old concentration camp from World War II. Today it is a museum. Read a more detailed article below. 

    Stjørdal Municipality

    We have arrived in Stjørdal, which has an amazing coat-of-arms! The design is modern but comes from the old medieval seal of Stjørdal, which dates from 1344. The dragon is a symbol of Saint Margaret of Antioch, and the old seal showed Saint Margaret standing on a slain dragon. It has always stood as a symbol for authority, power, and exalted dignity of the region.  Stjørdal is the location of Steinvikholm Castle, a nice detour.

    Steinviksholmen Castle

    Historic Site (Detour)

    How to get here:

    Steinviksholmen is clearly marked on Google Maps. It’s just off the E6 and marked with brown tourist signs the entire way. It’s about 10-15 minutes off the E6.

    The road is very narrow, and you’ll have to watch out for traffic coming the other way.

    —–

    Steinvikholmen Castle is a 16th century castle constructed by Norway’s last Roman Catholic Bishop, Olav Engelbrektsson. After meeting with the Pope, Olav’s resistance to the Danish rule and the Reformation escalated. Steinvikholm was built as the Catholic churches military stronghold. The castle was finished in 1532, but sadly for Olav the Reformation succeeded in 1537 and Olav was forced to flee to Lier. It was the last Catholic stronghold in Norway. When Olav fled, he left Saint Olav’s shrine and other treasures, and they were returned to Nidaros Cathedral in 1568.

    After the Reformation, the site was used as a quarry and some of its masonry was sold off. Since the late 19th century, the site has been owned and operated by the Past Memory Association (Fortidsminneforeningen). It is used as concert hall for a midnight opera, Olav Engelbrektsson, which details the life and struggles of the archbishop. The opera takes place annually.

    Steinvikholm Castle is Norway’s largest structure from the Middle Ages.

    In summer, it is open as a museum. There are also photographs and information boards (Norwegian and English) around the site. You can walk around the fortress for free, but the interior is what costs money. When we visited, we saw lots of kids swimming in the water around the fortress.

    You park on the mainland and pay a small fee (they use Vipps to accept parking payment), and then walk across the bridge (photographed) to the castle. The entrance is on the other side from my photos.

    Even if you aren’t interested in the castle, the surrounding scenery is gorgeous.

    Hell Station

    Train Station

    Hell is a small village by Trondheim Airport. The village has become a bit of a tourist attraction because of its name, which means “luck” in English. In modern Norwegian, the word for “hell” is “helvete”. The sign underneath says “Gods Expedition”, which actually means “Cargo Handling” in English. Stop by the train station and get a photo!

    Malvik Municipality

    Malvik is a small municipality just outside of Trondheim. It is one of the few municipalities in the area seeing population growth, with the population rising 13% of the last 10 years. Many people work in Trondheim. The coat-of-arms shows a black capercaillie, which is a symbol for the rich nature in the area.

    Trondheim Municipality

    Trondheim (South Sami name Tråante) is the third-most populous municipality in Norway, though it’s the fourth largest urban area. The settlement is a known Viking area, and Trondheim itself has many famous monuments from medieval times. There’s so much to say about Trondheim, so you can read a detailed overview by clicking the button below. 

    Trondheim

    We have now arrived in Trondheim! A detailed overview of Trondheim can be found on the travel guide section of The Hidden North. 

    This is the end of our two-week drive from Trondheim to Senja and back again. Be sure to check out our next series, summer in the West Fjords!

    Previous Drive

    Narvik to Mo i Rana on the E6

    See the previous day’s drive on the E6 between Narvik and Mo i Rana

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Drive it Yourself: E6 from Narvik to Mo i Rana

    Drive it Yourself: E6 from Narvik to Mo i Rana

    The E6 (European Highway 6) is the main highway that runs from Narvik to Mo i Rana. This portion of the drive takes place just above the Arctic Circle; we actually cross the Arctic Circle close to Mo i Rana. 

    There is a lot of World War II history along this road. From the famous Battle of Narvik to the attempted Arctic Railway, there are plenty of historic places to stop. 

    For the nature lovers, the Saltfjellet-Svartisen National Park is a delight to travel through.

    When we did this drive, I remember being surprised by how stunningly beautiful and untouched this part of Norway is. Also, there were so few settlements here. 

    Enjoy the drive!

    In this article...

    Downloadable Version of This Guide

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

    Online Guide

    Downloadable Guide

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    The drive: Narvik to Mo i Rana on the E6

    Narvik

    This drive begins in Narvik. You can find a detailed overview of Narvik via our travel guide. 

    Fagernes

    Village

    Fagernes has historically been a singular farm, and it has been known for a few hundred years as the largest and wealthiest in the inner part of Ofoten. It was of central importance to the construction of the railway between Kiruna and Narvik; the wealthy farmer Statius Mosling was eager to have the railroad built. It is because of him that the Ofoten Line ends in Fagernes and not Narvik.

    Today Fagernes is an inner suburb of Narvik.

    Målselv Municipality

    Målselv (Sami name: Málatvuomi suohkan) is a municipality in Troms County. The area was settled by farmers from southern Norway from 1788 onwards. They came here because of the large, forested areas as well as the fertile land. The valley and the municipality take its name from the river Målselva, which is well known for its salmon. The river also forms the Målselv waterfall, which has been selected as Norway’s national waterfall. One of the rarest orchids in Europe, Lysiella oligantha, is found in Målselva.

    Skjomnes Memorial

    Memorial

    This memorial commemorates the naval battles that took place on the Ofotfjord. It particularly explains the fighting that took place on the Ankenes peninsula, and there is an information board about the dramatic events that took place here. The memorial is set in a nice location by the fjord, perfect to take a break.

    Ballangen

    Village

    Ballangen (Sami name: Bálák) used to be its own municipality until it was merged with Narvik in 2020.

    The area was known in the Viking Age; the first person to live here was Lodve Lange, who is mentioned in the Heimskringla as one of Olav Tryggvason’s most trusted warriors. He lived at Saltvik, the small village we just passed through.

    Ballangen saw growth in the 17th century thanks to mining, and in total over 36 mines have been operated in Ballangen. Minerals like copper, nickel, iron, zinc, manganese and lead have been mined. Ballangen has the dubious distinction of having Norway’s highest rate of sick leave from work, probably due to the high number of people who work in the mines there and related environmental effects.

    Here you’ll find a petrol station and supermarket. There’s also a camping ground here if you wish to spend the night. 

    Bognes - Skarberget

    Ferry

    This is the only ferry connection on the European Highway 6 remaining. The crossing time is only 25 minutes and there are 15 departures a day. There is a café on board as well as restrooms. Simply drive on; your rental car will likely have an AutoPASS, and the ferry staff will scan it – that’s how to pay for a ferry!

    You can view their schedule here. 

    Hamarøy Municipality

    Hamarøy (Sami name: Hábmer) is in Nordland County and the traditional district of Salten. The coat-of-arms is new; it depicts two swans as seen on an ancient rock carving seen in the municipality. The previous coat-of-arms was a lynx, which are common in the area.

    The municipality is dominated by small fjords, pine, birch, and aspen woodland. There are several nature reserves here as some as some beautiful mountains, including the very unique Hamarøyskaftet, which stands 612m (2008ft) high.

    Tourism in Hamarøy is linked with Knut Hamsen, the famous Norwegian author who lived in the area. The municipality also has a ferry connection to the famous Lofoten islands. Agriculture is still a dominaent industry, though the salmon slaughterhouse is also important to the municipality.

    Ulvsvåg

    Village

    Ulvsvåg (Sami name: Ulsváhke) is a small village with all the basic facilities. However, it has an old petrol (ESSO) station from 1946, which is very cute and well worth a quick stop. The name apparently comes from a Viking called Ulv who chose to settle here.

    Knut Hamsun Centre

    The Knut Hamsun Centre (Hamsunsenteret) is a museum dedicated to the life and work of author Knut Hamsun. The building was designed by American architect Steve Holl (who also designed the Kiasma art gallery in Helsinki) and opened in 2009. The exhibition is structured thematically and deals with topics like Knut Hamsun’s childhood in Hamarøy, his support of Germany during World War II, and modernism in his writing.

    Click here to visit their website.

    The centre is 15km off the E6. 

    Innhavet

    Settlement

    Innhavet is a small settlement located by the Sagfjorden. It has all the facilities needed for a town of its size, including a school, grocery store and hairdresser. This is also where you’ll find the Hamarøy War Museum, as the Germans had started building a train station would would be part of the Arctic Circle train line. They were using Soviet prisoners of war to construct the train. Remains of railway and prison camps are found in the area.

    Sørfold Municipality

    Sørfold is a municipality in Nordland Count and the traditional district of Salten. The coat-of-arms represents a silver wheel of a turbine in a hydroelectric power plant; the rivers in Sørfold contain many rapids and waterfalls that are partly harnessed to generate electricity. It has provided a major source of income for the community.

    Sørfold is about 120km (75 mi) north of the Arctic Circle and is home to Rago National Park, known for its wild nature with bare rock, streams and a pine forest.

    During World War II, the German army had a prisoner-of-war camp here housing Russian POWs who were building the Polarbanen (Arctic Railway) that was supposed to connect Fauske with Narvik. Some ruins of the camp and the railway can still be seen.

    Mørsvikbotn

    Village

    This is a small village with a school and a grocery shop. The area is known for a prison camp that used to stand here during World War II. The prison camp was used for Russian POWs who were here to build the Arctic Railway between Fauske and Narvik on the Polarbanen.

    Straumen

    Village

    Straumen is the administrative centre of Sørfold in Nordland. It has a population of around 890. The larger town of Fauske is about 12km away.

    Fauske Municipality

    Fauske (Sami name: Fuassko) is a municipality in Nordland and the traditional district of Salten. The name comes from a historic farm that used to be on the site, and the coat-of-arms represent a red reef knot on a grey background, showing Fauske as a centre of commerce and transportation.

    Several marble quarries can be found in Fauske, and the marble is exported to many countries. Marble from Fauske can be seen on the United Nations Headquarters in New York City, for example. Dolomite quarries are also here, and there is some agriculture.

    There are two large glaciers in Fauske – Blåmannsisen and Sulitjelma. Together, they cover 14% of the municipality. There are also parts of the Junkerdal National Park and the Sjunkhatten National Park in the municipality, plus several nature reserves. Fauske is located within the Arctic Circle.

    Fauske has a rich Sami history, and at Leivset is a protected Sami sacrificial site. Place names in the municipality come from the Sami people.

    Fauske

    Town

    Fauske is a town and main centre for Fauske Municipality. It has a population of 6,300 and is a fairly ‘new’ town; it was established in 1998. However, the name comes from an old farm that has been here for thousands of years. Fauske Church (from 1867) is built on the site of the farm.

    Fauske is a stop on the Nordlandsbanen, which runs between Trondheim and Bodø. Despite being above the Arctic Circle, Fauske does not experience the polar night – in December, the sun rises at 11am and sets before 12pm.

    Fauske is a great place to break up the drive. It has a shopping mall, petrol stations, grocery stores, and even a Scandic Hotel.

    At Fauske you’ll find a turn-off to Highway 80, which will take you all the way to Bodo. Click here to visit the travel guide page for Bodo. 

    Saltdal Municipality

    Saltdal (Sami name: Sálát) is a municipality in Nordland County and part of the traditional district of Salten. The coat-of-arms represents two gold-coloured rowan twigs on a red background, representing the nature and prevalence of rowan forests in the municipality.

    The main centre of the municipality is Rognan, which sits on the southern shore of the Saltdal Fjord. A major historical industry was boat building out of local timber. Today it is Nexans, a global fibre company. The company’s Rognan factory specialises in telecommunications, fibre optics and copper cables.

    Rognan

    Village

    Rognan is the main town for Saltdal municipality and is located at the innermost part of the Skjerstad fjord.

    The main industry here is the optical cable factory of Nexans. The Nordland Line between Trondheim and Bodø stops in Rognan, too. Rognan has the “Blodvei Museum”, a museum about the Nazi’s attempt to build a railway between Fauske and Narvik.

    Rognan has a grocery store, hotel, camping ground and petrol station. 

    Saltfjellet-Svartisen

    National Park

    This park is a national park that has the European Highway 6 and the Nordland Line running through it, which makes it pretty special. It is one of the largest and most varied national parks in Norway, with alpine mountains, glaciers, as well as forested valleys. In this stretch, we see the Saltfjellet mountain range.

    Many Sami cultural landmarks are within the park, too. Some of the oldest Sami monuments are from the 9th century and include sacrificial sites, animal graves and fences. Today’s domestic reindeer husbandry has its roots from the 16th century.

    The Saltfjellet Mountain Range has peaks reaching up to 1,751m (5,745ft) above sea level. In the park you will see lots of reindeer, but there are also wolverines and lynx. In the valleys are plenty of moose. Cabins are available to rent within the park if you wish to spend a longer period of time here.

    We drive through the eastern part of the park. 

    Rana Municipality

    Rana is a large municipality within the Helgeland traditional region. The main city is Mo i Rana, where this drive finishes today. The municipality is located just south of the Arctic Circle, and the municipality is famous for their numerous caves due to the limestone rock.

    Arctic Circle Centre

    Visitor Centre

    The Arctic Circle Centre is a fun little roadside stop to get some souvenirs, snacks, and take some photos of yourself on the Arctic Circle. The centre opened in 1990, the same time the E6 highway over the Saltfjellet mountains was completed.

    Eiterå

    Village

    Eiterå is a small farming settlement in Rana. It is one of the oldest areas in Rana municipality; the land was cleared for farming in 1723 and four farms were established into the areas. The farm buildings still stand today and are operated by the descendants of the original owners.

    Mo i Rana

    We have now arrived in Mo i Rana! You can find a detailed version of Mo i Rana over on our travel guide. 

    Continue the drive

    The E6 between Mo i Rana and Trondheim

    After Mo i Rana, we continued south on the E6 to Trondheim on the last part of our incredible road-trip. 

    Previous Drive

    Nordkjosbotn to Narvik

    Our previous drive began near Finnsnes and continued south on the E6 to Narvik. 

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Drive it Yourself: E6 from Nordkjosbotn to Narvik

    Drive it Yourself: E6 from Nordkjosbotn to Narvik

    Welcome to the next part of our amazing drive from Trondheim to the Lofoten Islands! This drive was actually the turning point for us as we made our way back south to Trondheim. It was a little sad turning around; I just wanted to keep on going! Anyway, today we begin the first of three travel days on the E6 south to Trondheim.

    We actually began the drive in Finnsnes, a town across from the beautiful island of Senja. In the morning we ventured out to the Sami souvenir shop mentioned below before turning around and heading south on the E6.

    The drive close to Narvik is so beautiful! What I love is the amount of effort put into having rest areas with information about the Battle of Narvik, too. 

    Enjoy the drive!

    In this article...

    Downloadable Version of This Guide

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

    Online Guide

    Downloadable Guide

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    The drive: E6 between Nordkjosbotn & Narvik

    Nordkjosbotn

    Village

    Nordkjosbotn (Sami name: Gárgán) is a small village located at the junction of two major highways – the E6 and the E8. The E8 leads towards Tromsø, while the E6 runs through the entire length of Norway. It is one of the major crossroads in Norway. In the village you’ll find supermarkets, petrol stations, and a small church.

    Balsfjord Municipality

    Balsfjord Municipality (Sami name: Báhccavuotna) is located close to Tromsø Municipality. It has a population of around 5,500 people and has a very low population density. It is surrounded by two major fjords – Malangen and Balsfjorden. The farmland here is very rich.

    The original inhabitants were the Sami people, but in the 1800s new settlers came from Finland. Eventually people moved up from southern Norway and settled in the area. Today there are very few traces of Sami culture. Petroglyphs have been found in the area that are 2,500 to 4,000 years old.

    The coat-of-arms represents a yellow plough on a red background, symbolising the fact that agriculture is the main source of income for municipality. The plough also symbolises that the municipality is at the northernmost border on which grain can be grown in Norway. Agriculture is mostly based on milk and meat production, and Balsfjord has the highest number of cattle, sheep and goats in Troms county.

    Målselv Municipality

    Målselv (Sami name: Málatvuomi suohkan) is a municipality in Troms County. The area was settled by farmers from southern Norway from 1788 onwards. They came here because of the large, forested areas as well as the fertile land. The valley and the municipality take its name from the river Målselva, which is well known for its salmon. The river also forms the Målselv waterfall, which has been selected as Norway’s national waterfall. One of the rarest orchids in Europe, Lysiella oligantha, is found in Målselva.

    Sami Shop Heia

    Shop

    One of my favourite places in the area is this Sami shop. Here you can buy authentic Sami handicrafts, but I love their cafe with some of the best coffee I’ve ever had – boiled over an open fire and very, very strong. 

    Øvre Divdal National Park

    National Park

    The Øvre Divdal National Park (Sami name: Dieváidvuovddi) is a 750km2 (290 sq mi) national park that opened in 1971. The intention behind establishing the park was to protect the inland valley and mountain area. The area is very popular with hiking today. Pine forests grow in the lower areas, while birch grows on the mountains. All the main predators are represented in the park, including the brown bear, wolf, wolverine and lynx. The wolverine are numerous in the area and it is also common to see reindeer (owned by Sami) and moose. The Arctic fox used to live in the area.

    The valley is the second driest in Norway, with an annual precipitation of 282mm (11.1 inches). There is no permafrost in the lower elevations of the park.

    Many Sami cultural monuments remain in the park, from pre-Christian sacrificial sites to reindeer fences. Norwegian settlement didn’t come to the area until the 18th and 19th centuries. The name Divdalen comes from the Sami word dievva, meaning ‘round and dry pile’.

    If you are considering spending some time here, I recommend spending at least one night here. Cabins are available for rent throughout the area.

    Click here to visit their official website. 

    Bardufoss

    Town

    Bardufoss (Sami name: Beardogorži) is the commercial centre for the Målselv municipality. It is located in the Målselvdalen valley near the confluence of the Barduelva and Målselva Rivers. The population is 2,600.

    Bardufoss is known in Norway for its association with the military. The Bardufoss Airport is both a civilian and military airport suitable for landing bomber aircraft, fighter jets and other heavy planes.

    Many people who live in Bardufoss are associated with the Armed Forces. The two military camps Rusta and Heggelia, with the common name Bardufoss Camp, constitute the military centre of gravity in Troms together with Maukstadmoen camp in Øverbygd and Setermoen camp in Bardu. Between Rusta and Heggelia camps is Istindportalen, which is a welfare building for the Armed Forces. It houses the welfare service and equipment for the soldiers as well as a cinema, sports hall, and kiosk for civilians.

    A street in Bardufoss is called General Fleischer’s Veg, in honour of Carl Gustav Fleischer. Carl Gustav Fleischer was a Norwegian general and the first land commander to win a victory against the Germans in World War II.

    The main forest here is made up of Downy birch, Scot’s pine, aspen and grey alder. However, Norway spruce has been planted in the plantations since the middle part of the 20th century for economic reasons (timber).

    The climate in Bardufoss is more continental, and it has reliable snow cover in the winter while the summers are warmer than Tromsø in the summer.

    Bardufoss has an upper secondary school with practical subjects including aeronautical subjects, construction subjects and electrical subjects. The Armed Forces College is located here with courses at the college and university levels.

    Battle of Narvik 1940 Memorial & General Carl Flesicher

    Located just off the E6 in Bardufoss is a memorial about the importance of the Bardufoss Airport in the Narvik Campaign in 1940. 

    This monument at Bardufoss is one of the six memorials erected by the Norwegian Army commemorating the first defeat for Nazi Germany during World War II.

    Bardufoss Airport was important during the Campaign of Narvik and was an important aim of the German advance northwards.

    The street is named in memory of Carl Fleischer, a General in the Norwegian Army at the outbreak of World War II. He was crucial to the early successes of the military in the Battle of Narvik and is credited with coordinating the French, Polish, British and Norwegian forces in recapturing Narvik on the 28th of May. Narvik was the first major allied infantry victory in the Second World War. Unfortunately, the Allies left Narvik due to the German Invasion of France on the 10th of May 1940 and without the support the Norwegians couldn’t hold Narvik. The Germans reoccupied Narvik on the 9th of June. General Fleischer followed King Haakon VII and the government to the United Kingdom.

    During his exile, he built up a Norwegian infantry brigade in Scotland, but he soon got at odds with the Norwegian political leadership due to his stubbornness. He became controversial in factions of the cabinet due to his support of British commando raids on the Norwegian coast. Likely because of his attitudes, he was bypassed when the government-in-exile recreated the post of commander in chief of the Norwegian Armed Forces. Instead, Fleischer was told he would go to Canada and be the commander there. Apart from the Royal Norwegian Air Forces training base near Toronto, which already had a leader, there were no Norwegian forces in Canada. Fleischer took this as an insult and humiliation, and he committed suicide on the 19th of December 1942.

    Still disputed today, it is thought one of the reasons for sending him to Canada was that he favoured coastal raids against Norway to hamper German use of the occupied nation. He also wanted to build substantial army forces abroad and employ them in operations against the German occupying forces, something that was in direct conflict with the more passive strategy favoured by the government in exile. When General Fleischer’s ashes were brought back to Norway after the war, the Labour government denied him a state funeral. When a monument was raised in Harstad, which was attended by the King, the same lack of respect was shown by the Labour Party.

    Bardu Municipality

    Bardu (Northern Sami: Bearddu suohkan) is a small municipality in Troms Country with a population of around 4,000. The Norwegian name of the municipality has been Norwegianised from the Sami name, which means “long and steep mountainside”. The coat-of-arms represent a black wolverine on a gold background, symbolising the rich wildlife in the area.

    Norway’s largest military garrison is located at Setermoen, the administrative centre for Bardu. The military is the municipality’s largest employer, and more than 1,000 young soldiers perform their duty service here every year.

    The world’s most northern zoo, Polar Park, is in the southern part of the municipality.

    Setermoen

    Village

    Setermoen is the main town in Bardu municipality and has a population of around 2,400. Military education was established here in 1898 because of its strategic location in a valley surrounded by mountains. Today it is one of the oldest military camps in Norway, and in many ways the Norwegian Armed Forces has shaped Setermoen and the community through its presence. About 1,000 soldiers and 500 soldiers are stationed here, making it the largest garrison in Norway.

    Click here to visit the Norwegian Army’s website about Setermoen (it has some great pictures!)

    Bardu Bygdetun

    Open-air museum

    Bardu Bygdetun is an open-air museum that contains buildings mostly from the 1860s, arranged to show a historic farm and village. The main building is a farmhouse from 1868, but another interesting building is the school room that was built in the early 20th century to accommodate the 8-10 school students in the district.

    The museum is only open in August, where you’ll find staff dressed up, coffee and food, and other events.

    Click here to visit their website (in Norwegian).

    Polar Park

    Animal Park

    Polar Park is an animal park that specialises in Nordic fauna, including Norway’s four largest predators: brown bear, lynx, wolf, and wolverine. Other animals include moose, muskox, red deer, and reindeer.

    The park is open every day and they also have accommodation options close by.

    Click here to visit their website (in English). 

    Lavangen Municipality

    Lavangen (Sami name: Loabák) is a tiny municipality in the southern part of Troms County; the population is only 1,000! The name comes from the fjord nearby and is from the Old Norse words meaning “leaf fjord”. The coat-of-arms represents gold-coloured birch leaves on a red background, representing how the area was settled by Norwegians, Sami and Kvens. Over 20% of the population have a Sami background; they are mostly descendants of Swedish reindeer herding Sami.

    General Fleischer Memorial & Lapphaugen

    Memorial

    Shortly after driving through the village of Fossbakken is a monument about the Battle of Narvik in 1940. It includes a memorial to General Carl Fleischer as well as some information about the fighting that took place in the area.

    This is the site where the German troops advancing north were stopped by Norwegian forces. The Germans never again resumed the offensive in Narvik. The Germans were held back by a blizzard, which made for zero visibility and they had to stop here at Lapphaugen.

    Gratangen Municipality

    Gratangen (Sami name: Rivttága suohkan) is a small municipality in the southern part of Troms County. The population in the municipality is only around 1,000, with the main village being Årstein.

    Gratangen was the site of the Battle of Gratangen, one of the first battles between the Germans and the Norwegians during the Narvik Campaign in 1940. The first attack was a huge failure as the German counter-attacked unprepared Norwegians, blunting the first Norwegian advance. This battle was, for Norwegians, their first serious lesson in the art of war. After this battle, the bitterness caused by the German ruthlessness – particularly the use of civilians as human shields – ensured that the Norwegian’s wouldn’t hesitate to fire on the enemy again.

    Øse

    Memorial

    This memorial is located at a site called Øse, which was the site where fighting took place between the 1st and 14th of May 1940. The site is a strategically important mountain pass that the Germans were using. This is where the Norwegians fought alongside the French for the first time in the war. The goal was to clear the valley and mountain of German positions. The German troops put up a strong defence, and the area was not recaptured until the 7th of May. During the attack, the soldiers witnessed German air raids on the red-cross-labelled hospital ship, Dronning Maud, in the nearby fjord, and 19 people were killed when the ship sunk.

    Nordland County

    We cross into Nordland county. 

    Narvik Municipality

    We have now crossed into Narvik municipality. We’ll talk more specifically about the town later. The municipality is fairly large and is located in the northernmost part of Nordland county. The population is around 22,000, and it has grown by 18% over the last 10 years. The coat-of-arms represents the mountain Stetind, a well-known mountain peak in the area.

    Most of the municipality is around the Ofotfjorden and the mountain peaks here reach as high as 1,700 metres (5,600ft). Forests cover the lower parts of the mountains, but near the summits snow can stay for most of the year. Narvik is the best-known area in northern Norway for alpine skiing; some of the slopes start on top of the mountains and end near the town centre. Wreck diving attracts divers to the area as there are a lot of wrecks in the harbour.

    The economy is still largely based around iron ore, but there are some high-tech businesses in Narvik including Natach and the largest research institute in Northern Norway, Norut Narvik. Narvik was one of the first areas in the world to be affected by the financial cricis of 2007-2008 as it had invested in Citigroup securities. Narvik lost the equivalent of $18 million USD in August 2007 and the Norwegian government refused to bail them out, so Narvik was forced to implement severe budget cuts.

    Bjerkvik

    Village

    Bjerkvik is a small village with a population of 1,159. It has the European Highway 6 and the European Highway 10 running through it, making it a major junction between Harstad, Narvik and Tromsø.

    During World War II, Bjerkvik was almost destroyed by the bombardment of gunfire from allied warships that caused significant civilian casualties. A landing was conducted in the area by Franco-British forces, pushing the German forces several miles away.

    During a NATO exercise in 1986, sixteen Norwegian soldiers died in an avalanche just east of the town. Later, in 2006, two grenadiers from the Telemark battalion died of a tank accident during another NATO exercise. The tank they operated went through the ice on a swamp, and only two of the four crew managed to get out alive. The Commission of Inquiry concluded that it was human failure on the part of the crew who operated the tank. Also, they found that the crew were using old maps and that the Armed Forces had been warned against moving off the road due to little snowfall and bad ice.

    Ofotfjord

    Fjord

    The Ofotfjord is an inlet of the Norwegian Sea and a fjord that Narvik is built around. At 78km (48 mi), the Ofotfjord is Norway’s 12th longest fjord. It has depths of up to 553m (1814ft), and the mountains around the fjord reach peaks of 1500m (4900ft).

    In the fjord are huge quantities of herring staying in the fjord in the winter. The fish attract a lot of whales, notably orca. Lobsters have been occasionally observed in the fjord, making them the northernmost lobsters in the world. Cod and coalfish is the most common fish species throughout the year, while mackerel is common between July and September. White-tailed eagles and Eurasian otters are common in and around the fjord.

    The Ofotfjord was the scene of several naval battles during the Battles of Narvik in World War II. The fjord today is very popular among divers, though some of the shipwrecks are declared war graves and thus you cannot dive to them. The German destroyer Georg Thiele is still visible from the railway as it sits in the Ofotfjord. See pictures here. 

    Hålogaland Bridge

    Bridge

    This bridge crosses the Rombaksfjorden and is the second-longest bridge span in Norway. It was built to shorten the drive on the E6 between Narvik and Bjkerkvik. Financing for the bridge came from a mix of state grants and toll roads. At the time of its construction, it was the longest suspension bridge within the Arctic Circle and was featured on the Science Channel show Building Giants. The bridge officially opened on 9 December 2018.

    Narvik

    We have now arrived in Narvik! A detailed overview of Narvik can be found on the travel guide section of The Hidden North. 

    Continue the drive

    The E6 between Narvik and Mo i Rana

    Continue on the E6 south to Mo i Rana. On this part of the drive, you cross the Arctic Circle!

    Previous Drive

    Senja Tourist Road

    See the previous day’s drive on the Senja Tourist Road. 

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Drive it Yourself: The Senja Tourist Road

    Drive it Yourself: Senja Tourist Road

    Senja is the second largest island in Norway (outside of Svalbard) and is located close to the Vesterålen archipelago. The fishing industry is dominant in Senja as the waters here are some of the richest in the country. Other important industries are graphite mining and potato and potato products.

    The northern coast of Senja has open sea, while the west coast faces the islands of Andøya and Krøttøya. The west coast is famous for its steep and rugged mountains coming out from the sea, while the eastern and southern parts are milder.

    Senja has earned the nickname “Norway in miniature” because of the islands diverse scenery that reflects almost the entire span of Norwegian nature. Senja is known for its natural environment across Norway.

    In this article...

    Downloadable Version of This Guide

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

    All of our digital guides come with interactive Google maps, making your trip much easier!

    Online Guide

    Downloadable Guide

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    The drive: Senja Tourist Road

    Gryllefjord

    Village

    This tour begins at the ferry pier at Gryllefjord. We had taken the ferry across from Andenes that morning, which is very likely how you’ll be doing the drive. 

    Gryllefjord is a small fishing village in the Senja Municipality in Troms and Finnmark. Gryllefjord has been known as a fishing village since the 17th century, and from the late 19th century the village got new steam-powered fishing vessels to take part in cod fishing.  While fishing remained after the war, in recent years the place has experienced a sharp population decline. In the 1970s, there were 1,000 people living here, while in 2021 there were only 382.

    Senja Municipality

    Senja is a municipality in Troms County, with the main town being Finnsnes. The municipality consists of the entire island of Senja (Sami name: Sážžá), some smaller surrounding islands, and a small part of the mainland. The meaning of the name is unknown, but it might relate to the verb sundra, which means ‘tear’ or ‘split apart’, referring to the fjords that cut into the island.

    Senja wins the prize for my favourite coat of arms!

    Torsken

    Village

    Torksen used to be its own municipality, but from 2020 it was merged with Senja. Torksen, which translates to “the cod” in English, is close to the rich fisheries of Vesterålen and therefore fishing is the main industry. The name, however, comes from the rock formation overlooking the village, which previously looked a bit like a cod. Unfortunately, the rock formation has since collapsed.

    The fish-rich fjord has always provided a good life for people here, and Torsken attracted many fishermen. There is still fishing here, including a salmon and trout fish farm, a salmon slaughterhouse, and a herring and white fish farm. The village has a kindergarten; the school closed a few years ago and now students attend the school in Gryllefjord.

    Torsken Church

    Torsken Church is a historic church on Senja Island. The red, wooden church dates to 1784 and seats around 100 people. The first church on the site was mentioned in 1589, but it’s likely the church was built in 1400. Many believe it was built here by fishermen around that time and reflected the wealth and interest of this area. Additionally, it probably stood several metres to the north. In 1784, the old church was torn down and replaced with the present building, but they used many of the same materials. While the church is not a museum today, it’s still worth seeing as it is one of the few historic churches here.

    To get here, you’ll see a right-hand turn off the Fv86. The drive is short but stunningly beautiful; be sure to stop for photos. 

    Senja Troll

    Monument

    The Senja Troll was an experience centre and home to the Senja Troll, which was the world’s largest troll. Unfortunately, the troll burned down in 2019 and the park has since closed. There were shops, kids playgrounds, and a café here. You’ll see the entrance to the park, but it’s abandoned today. 

    Bergsbotn

    Viewpoint

    Bergsbotn is a scenic overlook of the fjord and surrounding mountain peaks. The platform is clearly marked with roadsides and has a parking lot. 

    Bergsbotn is also a fjord arm and settlement with a tiny population – around fifty people. It is located on the innermost part of the Bergsfjord.

    Skaland

    Village

    Skaland is a small town just a few minutes off the Fv862. It has a supermarket with restrooms, so it’s a great place to stop!

    Tungeneset

    Scenic Viewpoint

    Tungeneset is one of the most scenic stops on the Senja Tourist Road. There is a walkway that takes you along the shoreline towards a view of the mountain Oksen (with the sharp peaks), also known as ‘The Devil’s Jaw’, as well as a lovely view out to the North Sea.

    Ersfjord Beach

    Beach

    Ersfjord is a picturesque beach area overlooking the peaks of Oksen and the Ersfjord. The area used to be very isolated, but since 2004 it has had a tunnel connection and is now featured as part of the Senja Tourist Road. Around 40 people live here today.

    Ersfjord is known for having one of Norway’s most expensive road toilets. Called Gulldassen, the toilet cost 3.75 million NOK to build. The toilet was built in 2014. Luckily, the toilet was praised for its design when it completed, and it has become something of an attraction. Click here to see an article (in Norwegian) about the toilet. 

    When we visited there was a school group out fishing. They offered us some of their cod, but we had no way to take it with us!

    Ersfjord is an excellent place to observe the northern lights in winter, or in summer you can swim here under the midnight sun.

    Senjahopen and Mefjordvær

    Village

    With a population of 250, Senjahopen is one of the larger villages on the island Senja. Until the tunnel was completed in 2004, Senjahopen was very isolated. Even though Skaland is 10km (6 mi) away, it took over an hour to drive. Now, as we saw, it takes about 15 minutes. The village is one of the most important fishing villages in Senja thanks to its proximity to the fishing grounds. It is also where you’ll find a lot of the tourist activities. Thanks to its location on Hopsvatnet, a bay in the Mefjorden, Senjahopen is sheltered from the weather and wind.

    About 3km (2 mi) past Senjahopen is Mefjordvær, a historic fishing village. 

    Botnhamn

    Village

    Botnhamn is a small village in Senja with a population of around 300. The village is historic; it is mentioned in 1370 as a farm, and archaeological discoveries from the Stone Age, Iron Age and Middle Ages indicate that this area has been populated for a long time.

    The most known discovery is the Silver Treasure of Botnhamn from around 1000AD. It’s a necklace and the only known one to have a rune inscription on it. The rune inscription reads “We went to Frisland and fought the warriors, and we shared the booty between us”. The treasure is on display at the Tromsø Museum.

    From Botnhamn you can take a ferry to the island of Kvaløya, which neighbours the city of Tromsø – it’s a lot quicker than driving to Finnsnes first.

    Husøy

    Village

    Husøy is a small village located on the entirety of the island of Husøy, which is in the middle of the Øyfjorden. Husøy is well-known in Norway due to its picturesque setting. The population is about 285 and the main industry here is fishing. Up until a few decades ago the only access to the island was by boat, but now there is a tunnel and 300m long road connecting the island to the mainland.

    Because Husøy is exposed to bad winds coming in from the sea, the houses on the island have to be roped to the ground. People chose to settle here because of the close proximity to the fisheries as well as the lack of risk of landslides.

    Note – if you want to explore the island, park your car off the island. There is nowhere to park on the island. 

    Gibostad

    Village

    Gibostad is a historic village on the island Senja. Gibostad was originally the centre for the municipality, before it was replaced by Finnsnes in the 1960s. Gibostad is located at the narrowest point that separates Senja from the mainland, and for a long time it was projected to become the main centre of Northern Norway. However, in 1794 Tromsø was chosen instead.

    Gibostad was originally a Hurtigruten port of call, and it was one of the first ports on the ship way back in 1838 (Hurtigruten as we know it today is from 1893, but its predecessor was operating a service in Northern Norway throughout the 19th century). This service was of crucial importance to the development of the town. A commercial centre grew in Gibostad, and in the summer there was a huge market here. Eventually everything was moved to Finnsnes, and since then Gibostad has been a small village.

    Some of the old buildings from Gibostad have been preserved, but sadly many were torn town. Ever since the 1990s there has been a renewed interest in preserving Gibostad, and a market is arranged once a year like the old times.

    Senja’s main high school is located at Gibostad, and the schools specialises in agricultural studies.

    Finnsnes

    Finnsnes is the main town for the Senja Municipality. It is not located on the island but is instead on the mainland – separated from Senja by the Gisundet straight. The Gisund Bridge connects Finnsnes to the outer suburbs Silsand and Laukhella on Senja island. The town has all the services you’d expect for a town this size, including schools, a hospital, etc.

    Finnsnes is a modern town. Over the last 100 years it has seen rapid development, largely thanks to the introduction of a Hurtigruten stop as well as increase in industry.  Finnsnes is today an important centre for transportation for Senja both on land and sea. Fishing and agriculture are still important industries, with major companies for fish processing located here. Fish farming is growing in importance.

    Finnsnes is often described as the ‘Gateway to Senja’ thanks to its proximity to the island. While Senja remains far more traditional and less developed, Finnsnes is a good alternative for staying while exploring Senja. While not as scenic as Senja, it has shopping malls, restaurants, hotels, and multiple transportation connections, making it a good place to base yourself.

    Continue the drive

    The E6 between Nordkjosbotn & Narvik

    Time to turn around and begin the journey south! We join with the E6 and continue south to Narvik. 

    Previous Drive

    Andøya Tourist Road

    See the previous day’s drive on the Andøya Tourist Road.

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Drive it Yourself: Harstad to Andenes on the Andøya Tourist Road

    Drive it Yourself: Harstad to Andenes on the Andøya Tourist Road

    This drive doesn’t have to begin in Harstad. The Andøya Tourist Road is close to the Lofoten Tourist Road, so you can easily do this from Svolvær, for example. 

    The Andøya Tourist Road is one of Norway’s most remote tourist roads, and in many ways, it feels like one of the country’s best-kept secrets. Located close to the far more famous Lofoten Islands, this road takes along the rough coastline past some of the most stunning scenery Norway has to offer.

    Andøya Island (explained in detail later in this driving guide) is a unique island. It is the only place on the Norwegian mainland where dinosaur fossils have been found, it is famous for its Arctic cloudberries, and whales, puffins and seals can be seen for large parts of the year.

    While the tourist road itself is short, the drive is well worth the time it takes to get to this remote part of the world.

    In this article...

    Downloadable Version of This Guide

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

    Online Guide

    Downloadable Guide

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    The drive: Harstad to Andenes

    Harstad

    Harstad is the second largest city in Troms (after Tromsø). It’s a good place to spend the night thanks to its large selection of hotels and restaurants. The YouTube video begins in Harstad.

    For information about Harstad, head to the travel guide  page. 

    Sørvik

    Village

    Sørvik is a small village located close to Harstad. The village has a historical museum that opens in the summer. They’ve collected log buildings from around Harstad and recreated the museum like an old farm and village. The museum aims to show the Norwegian home and lifestyle in the 19th and early 20th century, though some of the architecture dates back to before the 19th century.

    Sandtorg

    Village

    Sandtorg is a small village with a population of around 300. It is an old settlement; there has been a trading post here since the 13th century. Sandtorg grew in importance in the 18th century when pilot services were added for foreign and local ships. The trading post lasted until 1945, when the Norwegian Amy’s communication services took over operations after German occupation. The army returned the post to civilian use in the 1990s and today the trading post still stands with a hotel and restaurant.

    In 2014, three coins from the Middle Ages and two pieces of payment silver dating to the Viking times were found here. The two coins were minted under Eirik Magnusson and date to 1285-1290. The third coin is from 1483-1513. In 2020, it was concluded that Sandtorg is the only Viking Age trading place in Northern Norway.

    You can spend the night at Sandtorgholmen Hotel, which is built on the site that has been used as the trading post since the 19th century. The original site was further north. Prices start at around 1200 NOK for a standard room for one night.

    You can visit the hotel website here: https://www.sandtorgholmen.no/?lang=en

    Tjeldsund County

    Tjeldsund Municipality

    Tjeldsund (Sami name: Dielddanuorri) is a municipality that’s part of the Ofoten traditional district and the Central Hålogaland district. The main village in the municipality is Evenskjer.  The main education and training centre for Norway’s firemen, Norges Brannskole, is in Fjelldal in Tjeldsund. A naval base is also located here at Ramsund. Besides that, there is some small industry including farming, fishing, banking, and transport.

    Kongsvik

    Village

    Kongsvika is a small village with around 300 people living there. It has cabins for rental and a petrol station. 

    Nordland County

    Nordland County

    Nordland County is located along the north-western coast of the Scandinavian peninsula. Due to its huge size and low population, it is one of the least polluted areas in Europe. The county is defined by steep mountains near the sea and a lowland area between the mountains and the sea. The Arctic Circle cuts through the county.

    Troms County

    Troms County

    We cross back into Troms County. 

    Troms County existed up until 1 January 2020, when it was merged with Finnmark County to make Troms og Finnmark. However, at time of writing, there are rumours the two will split up. So, I’m going to provide information just about Troms.

    The area has been settled since the Stone Age, and the first of the current ethnic groups to settle in the county were the Sami people. Archaeological evidence shows that a Norse-based culture existed here in the Late Roman Iron Age (200-400AD).

    The Norse settled along the coast and some of the larger fjords, while the Sami lived in some fjord areas and inland. The southern part of Troms was a petty kingdom in the Viking Age. Trondenes (today’s Harstad) was an important Viking power centre and gathering place.

    Troms takes its name from the island Tromsøya where the city Tromsø is located. The area is in the northern part of the Scandinavian peninsula, and due to its low population and distance from high density European cities, it is one of the least polluted areas in Europe.

    With its latitude of nearly 70 degrees north, the area has cool, short summers but mild winters due to the Gulf Stream. The area experiences the midnight sun between May and July and then the polar night between November and January.

    Outside of the big cities, fishing remains an important industry and there are several important fishing ports throughout the county. Tromsø is the commercial centre for the northern part of the county, while Harstad is the centre for the southern part of the county.

    Kvæfjord Municipality

    Kvæfjord (Sami: Giehtavuotna) is in the traditional region of Central Hålogaland with the main village being Borkenes. The municipality is known for its agriculture and farming, with the quality of the strawberries being particularly famous.

    The long hours of daylight and low summer temperatures are great for strawberries, making them more tasteful than berries grown in warmer climates. Potatoes are also particularly well known from this region, and the fjords are known for their good herring. Chicken farming for egg production and pig farming are also important.

    Kvæfjord is a historic region, and burial mounds and items found during excavations indicate that there have been settlements here since the Iron Age. One of the oldest farms, Vebostad, has traces from 300BC. Many of the names in the area have Iron Age and Viking Age origin. For example, Vebostad has ‘ve’ in it, which is an old word meaning sanctuary, residence, and pagan sacrificial site. Another farm, Hundstad, may be connected to the famous Viking Tore Hund.

    Sami people have lived in Kvæfjord for a very long time, but the historical information is scattered. It is known that the Sami lived along the fjords, particularly Austerfjord, as well as in the inland areas. In the Storjord area are traces of Sami settlement from the 17th to 19th centuries.

    Langvassbukta

    Village

    Kvæfjord (Sami: Giehtavuotna) is in the traditional region of Central Hålogaland with the main village being Borkenes. The municipality is known for its agriculture and farming, with the quality of the strawberries being particularly famous.

    The long hours of daylight and low summer temperatures are great for strawberries, making them more tasteful than berries grown in warmer climates. Potatoes are also particularly well known from this region, and the fjords are known for their good herring. Chicken farming for egg production and pig farming are also important.

    Kvæfjord is a historic region, and burial mounds and items found during excavations indicate that there have been settlements here since the Iron Age. One of the oldest farms, Vebostad, has traces from 300BC. Many of the names in the area have Iron Age and Viking Age origin. For example, Vebostad has ‘ve’ in it, which is an old word meaning sanctuary, residence, and pagan sacrificial site. Another farm, Hundstad, may be connected to the famous Viking Tore Hund.

    Sami people have lived in Kvæfjord for a very long time, but the historical information is scattered. It is known that the Sami lived along the fjords, particularly Austerfjord, as well as in the inland areas. In the Storjord area are traces of Sami settlement from the 17th to 19th centuries.

    Sortland Municipality

    Sortland (Sami name: Suortá) Municipality is part of the traditional region of Vesterålen. It is located in the southern part of Vesterålen on the islands Langøya and Hinnøya, and the municipality surrounds the inner part of the Eidsfjorden and the Sortland Strait. The midnight sun occurs from 23 May to 23 July, while the polar night is from 30 November to 12 January. The region is popular for observing the northern lights.

    History

    The region is mentioned in the Viking Sagas, where it is written as the home of Karle and Gunnstein, who took part in Tore Hund’s campaign against King Olav. The first church is mentioned in written sources in 1370.

    Yacht skipper Søren Mørch from Bergen settled here and started a yacht trade in 1659. This is the year Sortland is considered to be founded.

    Industry

    Sortland is home to the Coast Guard Base in Norway. Tourism is also important, as is agriculture. Parts of the municipality were known in the latter half of the 19th century as one of Norway’s best regions for herring. The herring adventure here helped lay the foundation or the establishment of Hurtigruten. While the herring aren’t as plentiful as back then, there are still fishing in Sortland.

    Sami Activity

    Sortland has a small Sami population. A Sami family runs reindeer herding on Hinnøya. There used to be a reindeer husbandry, but it was closed in 1972. Some place names in the region come from Sami words.

    Culture

    Sortland is regarded as one of the best music communities in Norway and the local band Madrugada has been one of the best in the country. The Sortland Jazz Festival takes place every autumn, and some of the world’s leading jazz musicians have taken part.

    Sortland is the only municipality in Vesterålen that has seen a stable increase in the popular over the past 25 years.

    Sortland

    If you want to go into Sortland, you’ll take the Sortland Bridge across the town (instead of continuing straight towards Andøya). You come to this junction as you are crossing through the village Strand (you see Sortland across the strait and you see the massive bridge well in advance). 

    Sortland has a population of around 5,500 and is the largest town and commercial centre in Vesterålen.

    As you drive through Sortland, you will notice many of the buildings are painted blue. The local artist Bjørn Elvenes came up with the idea to bring colour into the city and attract tourists too. The idea wasn’t too popular amongst the locals, but it was adopted as a millennium project by the city. However, it didn’t go very well. Elvenes wanted more artistic control in creating Sortland into a 3D-like painting, while the architects wanted to use colour to highlight the features of the buildings.

    Elvenes fell out with the council and began to cooperate with the buildings directly, while others chose the councils plans. Because of that, the blue buildings are not as unified as they could be. Not all the buildings are blue, but enough of them are that you’ll wonder what’s going on.

    Sortland has a massive shopping mall, Sortland Storsenter, where you’ll be able to buy groceries, alcohol, clothing, cosmetics, etc. If you need anything, I recommend stopping here as Andenes doesn’t have so much. There are also cafes, restaurants, takeaway and petrol stations in Sortland. 

    Andøy Municipality

    Andøy is the northernmost municipality in Nordland, and forms part of the Vesterålen archipelago. The population of Andøya has decreased by 6.8% over the last ten years, and the main settlement is Andenes. The meaning of Andøy is unknown, though the last element means ‘island’.

    The municipality is spread across the island of Andøya and Hinnøya. The mid-section has bogs and marshes known for their Arctic cloudberries, and there are numerous lakes here too. The island is the only place in continental Norway where coal and fossils from dinosaurs are found. The Forfjorddalen nature reserve has some of the oldest pine trees in Scandinavia – some are more than 700 years old. Andøys is also the place where Egga, the edge of the continental shelf, is closest to the land.

    The municipality has a strong connection to aviation, with the 333 Squadron of the Air Force being stationed at Andøya Airport. The Andøya Space Centre is involved in international cooperation of the polar atmosphere and the northern lights. Andøya Airport is proposed to be closed by 2025, with air traffic moving to Evenes Airport.

    The fishing industry is still important to the municipality, and Andenes is one of the country’s largest fishing harbours and one of Northern Europe’s largest port facilities.

    Forfjord

    Village

    The name of the village is Forfjord, which comes from the name of the fjord the village is built around. The nature reserve here has the oldest living pine trees in Northern Europe, with some of them dating back to 830 AD. It is assumed that the forest was a source of timber and tar for Viking ships, and there are settlements and burial sites that are yet to be excavated.

    A famous person in Norwegian exploration came from Forfjord: Hans Jørgen Furfjord. He led the first expedition to stay the winter on Svalbard to hunt silver foxes, walruses, seals and polar bears. Items from his expeditions are on display in museums in Tromsø and Svalbard. Hans also kept diaries describing his adventures, including European monarchs visiting, his being imprisoned by British soldiers for not supplying them for free, barely surviving polar bear encounters, and surviving not freezing to death. He died at the age of 81 at his home in Forfjord. Some of his children emigrated to Canada and the United States, where some of his descendants live today. Some remain in Forfjord.  

    Risøyhamn

    Village

    Risøyhamn is a small village located on the island Andøya. It has a population of 216 and is serviced by the Hurtigruten twice a day – if you take the Hurtigruten southbound you see the village around 11:30am. There are many older buildings in Risøyhamn, including Gammelg ården from the early 18th century. There is a small open-air museum here with five buildings. Click here to view a website about the buildings (in Norwegian only). 

    Andøya Tourist Road

    Bjørnskinn

    Village

    Bjørnskinn is a small settlement with the Bjørnskinn church. The church was in use in 1589, but it was not new then. The church was replaced in 1740 and again in 1885.

    Bukkekjerka

    Rest Stop

    Bukkekjerka is a rest stop and rock formation that was historically a Sami sacrificial site. The word Bukkekjerka, which is a Sami word, refers to crevice (bohki) and rock (giergie). Several tracks lead to the top of the rock, where there is a small bench.

     

    There used to be a fishing village here called Børvågen that was very active during the herring fisheries period, but the town was reduced to rubble in a huge storm in 1879. Remains of Iron Age buildings, burial mounds and boat landings have been found in the area.

     

    There are toilets here, too. They are open from mid-May until the end of September. The rest area won an architecture design prize in 2018.

    Nordmela

    Village

    Nordmela is a fishing village with about 120 inhabitants. There are written sources that people have lived here since the 16th century, but there are findings from the Stone Age in the area. The area used to be a stronger fishing village, but one of the main companies went bankrupt in 2009. The local school closed down in 2008.

    Måtinden

    Mountain

    Måtinden is 408m (2000ft) high and the walking path is about 4km each way. The hike is not demanding, but some sections are a little steep.

    Read more about the mountain by clicking here. 

    Bleik

    Village

    Bleik is a small fishing village with a population of around 460. Bleik has one of the longest beaches in Norway, and it’s believed that’s where the village gets its name (bleik = white/pale). It’s believed people have lived here for a very long time, as an old farm mound can be traced back to 600AD and has a depth of 6 metres.

    15km offshore from the beach is the Bleik Canyon, a deep canyon with depths of up to 3000m. It’s common to see sperm whales here, which is why Andøya is known for its whale safaris.

    There is a triangle shaped island off the coast called Bleiksøya, and that’s where you can see puffins – it is the largest resort for puffins in Norway. These puffins are highly endangered due to the white-tailed eagle and the golden eagle, which are also often spotted here. The puffins are here from mid-April until mid-August, and puffin safaris can be taken from Bleik, which is what we did!

    Andøya Space

    Space centre

    Shortly after Bleik you’ll pass a large complex on your left; this is Andøya Space. It’s a rocket launch site, rocket range and space port. Over 1,200 sounding and sub-orbital rockets of various configurations have been launched from the site. The centre is also used for observing and studying the northern lights. Andøya Space has worked with the likes of ESA, NASA, JAXA and national and international universities.

    Andenes

    Andenes is a small fishing community located on the top of Andøya. The village is known as being one of the best places to set off on a whale safari, and it has a direct ferry connection to the famous Senja Island, which we will be taking the following day.

    You can read all about Andenes on the travel guide section of the website. 

    Continue the drive

    Senja Tourist Road

    It is an absolute must to combine the Andøya Tourist Road with the Senja Tourist Road!

    Previous Drive

    The Lofoten Islands Part 2: Svolvær to Harstad

    See the previous day’s drive through the Lofoten Islands. 

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Drive it Yourself: The Lofoten Islands Part 2: Svolvær to Harstad

    Drive it Yourself: The Lofoten Islands Part 2: Svolvær to Harstad

    The Lofoten Islands is probably one of the most famous places in Norway. Many people making the trip here want to head to Lofoten, and rightly so. Steep mountain peaks rise out of the ocean forming the Lofoten archipelago, one of the most scenic places in Norway. For thousands of years fishermen have lived at the foot of these peaks, building now iconic rorbuer and living off the cod fishing season. This history survives today on Lofoten, and you get to explore it with this road-trip!

    This road-trip is part one of two parts and takes you from Å in the south to Svolvær, which is a little over halfway up the archipelago.

    In this article...

    Download This Guide

    All of our guides can be downloaded via our online store. 

    Online Guide

    Downloadable Guide

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    Begin: Svolvær

    With a population of 4,720, Svolvær is the largest city in the Lofoten Islands. The settlement is old; Svolvær was first mentioned in 1567. However, Svolvær didn’t gain prominence until the early 20th century when the motorized boats needed a modern harbour.

    The cod fisheries are still an important industry in Svolvær, but tourism is one of the main industries in the city. Svolvær is also a major transportation hub and favourite starting point for tourists. The Hurtigruten also stops here twice a day. It is possible to do sea eagle safaris, whale watching tours, and take a scenic cruise into the nearby Trollfjord. Svolvær also has a downhill skiing centre. In town, you’ll find the Lofoten War Memorial Museum a Magic Ice Bar, and numerous galleries.

    Svolvær Airport

    Airport

    Svolvær Airport is a regional airport in Lofoten. While it is one of the main airports for Lofoten, it is likely not the one you will fly to if you are flying to Lofoten – instead, it’s better to fly to Harstad/Narvik and drive from there. Svolvær Airport is served by Widerøe and the routes are subsidized by the government with direct flights to Bodø, Oslo, and small communities in Nordland county. There are plans to make a new primary airport to serve the Lofoten and Vesterålen region, making it more attractive to visit out of the tourist season.

    Austnesfjorden

    Photo Stop

    The Austnesfjorden Photo Stop is located shortly after Svolvær Airport. The view is excellent over the fjord and you can see Sildpollnes Church in the distance.

    Sildpollnes Church is a small white wooden church from 1891. The church had some drama recently, when the current neighbour refused to let people through his property to get to the church because he said the 1890 agreement stated people could pass on foot, but it didn’t mention automobiles. The church closed in 2015 and the case went to court, with the neighbour loosing and the Lofoten District Court ruling in favour of the church.

    At the photo stop they have a place you can walk up to with a viewing platform. I’ve used a photo of it at the top of this page. This is where you get the view out to the church. 

    Hadsel Municipality

    Hadsel municipality is located on four main islands in Vesterålen – Hinnøya, Langøya, Hadseløya, and Austvågøya.

    Hadsel has been an important hub for the fishing industry, and due to its proximity to Lofoten has always been an important trading place for Lofoten residents. The oldest settlements were likely on the southern side of Hadseløya, but the main harbour has always been Stokmarknes.

    The name “Hadsel” comes from the Old Norse word “Hovdasegl”, meaning “main sail”. The name describes that Hadseløya can look like a merged mainsail on a Nordland boat when you see Hadseløya from Langøya. The Sami name for Hadsel is Ulpesuohkan, referring to the old name for the area (Ulvøya).

    The main airport here is the Stokmarknes Airport, the busiest small aircraft airport in Norway. Stokmarknes is also the birthplace of Hurtigruten, the Norwegian coastal ferry.

    The coat of arms represents four yellow rings, representing the four main islands the municipality is on.

    Vesterålen

    Traditional Region

    Many people confuse Vesterålen for Lofoten, but in fact they are two different areas. 

    Vesterålen is an archipelago between Lofoten and the Norwegian mainland. Many assume that the whole area is just Lofoten, but it’s just the southern half of the islands. The name “Vesterålen” means “western strait”. The landscape here is very mountainous, but the mountains are more rounded than Lofoten. The towns and villages are on the coastal brim between the mountains and the fjords. Fishing, in particular cod fisheries, has always been important to Vesterålen. Today there is also fish farming and some agriculture in the area.

    Hinnøya

    Island

    Hinnøya is the fourth largest island in Norway, and the largest out of Svalbard. The island has several fjords and typically has a mountainous and rugged terrain. There are also valleys and lakes; the treeline is around 400m above sea level.

    Lødingen Municipality

    Lødingen (Sami name: Lodek) is a region on the southwestern part of the island Hinnøya and it is part of the traditional district called Ofoten. While not technically part of Vesterålen, it does participate in councils with the municipalities in Vesterålen.

    The most historically important place in Lødingen is Hjertholmen, a farm and meeting place for residents and visitors. It was owned by the Lødingen Prestegård (rectory) in 1860, and a lighthouse was also built on the site along with the guardhouse and telegraph office. Today the place is used as a gathering place for schools, kindergartens, and visitors. The site is located in Lødingen village.

    Another important site is Hustad gård, which was a large Viking farm 1,000 years ago. The museum tells the story of agricultural history, but there is also a cultural path that follows the Iron Age settlement. The main church, Lødingen Church, is built on the site of the first church in the area, built in the 13th century.

    The tallest mountain in Lødingen is the mountain Møysalen, which is 1263m above sea level making it the second highest mountain peak on an island in Norway.

    Lødingen is known as “Biketown” because it has several annual bike races. The Lødingen Cycling Club is Norway’s largest cycling club in terms of population. Lofoten Insomnia is a race that begins in Å (at the far end of Lofoten) and ends in Lødingen.

    Another important event here is the Seafood Festival with concerts and an excellent selection of seafood. Sailboats from all over the country visit the festival, which takes place in the early summer.

    Troms County

    Troms County existed up until 1 January 2020, when it was merged with Finnmark County to make Troms og Finnmark. However, at time of writing, there are rumours the two will split up. So, I’m going to provide information just about Troms.

    The area has been settled since the Stone Age, and the first of the current ethnic groups to settle in the county were the Sami people. Archaeological evidence shows that a Norse-based culture existed here in the Late Roman Iron Age (200-400AD). The Norse settled along the coast and some of the larger fjords, while the Sami lived in some fjord areas and inland. The southern part of Troms was a petty kingdom in the Viking Age. Trondenes (today’s Harstad) was an important Viking power centre and gathering place.

    Troms takes its name from the island Tromsøya where the city Tromsø is located. The area is in the northern part of the Scandinavian peninsula, and due to its low population and distance from high density European cities, it is one of the least polluted areas in Europe.

    With its latitude of nearly 70 degrees north, the area has cool, short summers but mild winters due to the Gulf Stream. The area experiences the midnight sun between May and July and then the polar night between November and January.

    Outside of the big cities, fishing remains an important industry and there are several important fishing ports throughout the county. Tromsø is the commercial centre for the northern part of the county, while Harstad is the centre for the southern part of the county.

    Kvæfjord Municipality

    Kvæfjord (Sami: Giehtavuotna) is in the traditional region of Central Hålogaland with the main village being Borkenes. The municipality is known for its agriculture and farming, with the quality of the strawberries being particularly famous. The long hours of daylight and low summer temperatures are great for strawberries, making them more tasteful than berries grown in warmer climates. Potatoes are also particularly well known from this region, and the fjords are known for their good herring. Chicken farming for egg production and pig farming are also important.

    Kvæfjord is a historic region, and burial mounds and items found during excavations indicate that there have been settlements here since the Iron Age. One of the oldest farms, Vebostad, has traces from 300BC. Many of the names in the area have Iron Age and Viking Age origin. For example, Vebostad has ‘ve’ in it, which is an old word meaning sanctuary, residence, and pagan sacrificial site. Another farm, Hundstad, may be connected to the famous Viking Tore Hund.

    On the mountain Melåaksla, over 30 shooting shelters have been found on an inaccessible mountain path that the reindeer use as a migration route. As many as 40-50 people were involved in reindeer hunting here.

    Sami people have lived in Kvæfjord for a very long time, but the historical information is scattered. It is known that the Sami lived along the fjords, particularly Austerfjord, as well as in the inland areas. In the Storjord area are traces of Sami settlement from the 17th to 19th centuries.

    Kvæfjord is the home of the Kvæfjord Cake, the Norwegian national cake. The cake is a sponge cake baked with meringue, vanilla cream, and almonds.

    Boazovazzi

    Shop

    On the right is Boazovazzi, a shop where you can buy Sami products. The name is the Sami word for ‘Reindeer herder’ and here you can buy reindeer meat or Sami handicrafts. They also have six rooms for rent. Put the name of the shop in Google and check them out!

    Tjeldsund Municipality

    Tjeldsund (Sami name: Dielddanuorri) is a municipality that’s part of the Ofoten traditional district and the Central Hålogaland district. The main village in the municipality is Evenskjer.  The main education and training centre for Norway’s firemen, Norges Brannskole, is in Fjelldal in Tjeldsund. A naval base is also located here at Ramsund. Besides that, there is some small industry including farming, fishing, banking, and transport.

    Kongsvika

    Village

    Kongsvika is a small village with around 300 people living there. It has cabins for rental and the first petrol station we’ve seen in a while! It’s a good place to stop for a break. 

    Sandtorg

    Village

    Sandtorg is a small village with a population of around 300. It is an old settlement; there has been a trading post here since the 13th century. Sandtorg grew in importance in the 18th century when pilot services were added for foreign and local ships. The trading post lasted until 1945, when the Norwegian Amy’s communication services took over operations after German occupation. The army returned the post to civilian use in the 1990s and today the trading post still stands with a hotel and restaurant.

    In 2014, three coins from the Middle Ages and two pieces of payment silver dating to the Viking times were found here. The two coins were minted under Eirik Magnusson and date to 1285-1290. The third coin is from 1483-1513. In 2020, it was concluded that Sandtorg is the only Viking Age trading place in Northern Norway.

    You can spend the night at Sandtorgholmen Hotel, which is built on the site that has been used as the trading post since the 19th century. The original site was further north. Prices start at around 1200 NOK for a standard room for one night.

    You can visit the hotel website here: https://www.sandtorgholmen.no/?lang=en

    Sørvik

    Village

    Sørvik is a small village located close to Harstad. The village has a historical museum that opens in the summer. They’ve collected log buildings from around Harstad and recreated the museum like an old farm and village. The museum aims to show the Norwegian home and lifestyle in the 19th and early 20th century, though some of the architecture dates back to before the 19th century.

    Harstad

    Harstad is the second most populated city in Troms after Tromsø, with a population of 24,703.

    The oldest part of Harstad is the area Trondenes, which is mentioned in the Heimskringla (King’s Sagas) as a power centre in the Viking Age and a place to meet and discuss important issues. It wasn’t a trading place; Sandtorg is the only known Viking Age trading place in Northern Norway. It is possible to visit Trondenes, and that’s where we are going!

    Harstad city didn’t grow until the late 19th and early 20th centuries, when it emerged as an important trading place with a large harbour for ships. The city experienced rapid expansion with the introduction of steam ships.

    Continue the drive

    Andøya Tourist Road

    Visit Norway’s most remote tourist road at the end of the world!

    Previous Drive

    The Lofoten Islands Part 1: Å to Svolvær

    See the previous day’s drive through the lower part of Lofoten

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • How to get to Fantoft Stave Church

    How to get to Fantoft Stave Church

    If you’re spending a few days in Bergen, it’s well worth getting out of the city to explore the surrounding region. A popular place to go is the Edvard Grieg Museum, or you can go to one of the mountains for hike, but one of my suggestions is to go and visit Fantoft Stave Church.

    Many people ask me during my walking tours how to get there, and I’ve even had some say that they tried to get there and couldn’t find it! I think one of the reasons about why it’s so confusing is because it can be a little confusing on GPS, and there are also two ways to get to Fantoft – one hard and one easy.

    In this article, I’ve provide an easy to follow overview of how to get to Fantoft Stave Church. I’ll also explain a little bit about the church so you have some information about what you’ll be visiting.

    In this article...

    History of Fantoft Stave Church

    If you are wondering what is a stave church, I have a whole dedicated page for that. You can visit by clicking here.

    Fantoft Stave Church wasn’t built on this site. It was originally constructed around the year 1150 at Fortun in Sogn, a village on the innermost point of the Sognefjord in Western Norway. If you drive on the Sognefjellet Tourist Road, you pass the site where the church used to stand. The church stood there until 1879, when the town needed a new church. This was fairly common at the time; towns were growing due to better hygiene and health conditions, and in the 19th century it was a requirement that churches could fit a substantial percentage of the population.

    The man who owned the region Fantoft, then a farming area, Consul Fredrik Georg Gade, decided to buy the stave church and rebuild it on his property. The church was moved piece-by-piece and reconstructed on his farm. Some renovations were done to the church to make it look more like Borgund Stave Church.

    Arson

    Fantoft Stave Church stood as a popular attraction until the 6th of June 1992, when it was destroyed by arson. This was the first in a string of church burnings by members of the early Norwegian black metal scene. However, at first it was believed that the church fire was caused by lightning or an electrical fail.

    Varg Vikenes, from the band Burzum, was found guilty of burning four churches in Norway. He had been accused of also burning Fantoft, but was found not guilty for that church. The jury has since called this an error but did not overturn the decision. This is probably because a photograph of the burnt church appears on the cover of the 1993 Burzum EP called Aske, the Norwegian word for ‘ashes’.

    Reconstruction

    Fantoft was reconstructed according to what it looked like before, and since 1997 it has had a fence around it to protect the church from any future arson attacks. There are also a number of security cameras in the area.

    Church Appearance

    The church today heavily resembles Borgund Stave Church, which has been used as the model for a number of church renovations.

    One of the most characteristic features are the dragon heads, which are on the roof. These are a pagan symbol to protect the building against evil forces. At the top of the church is a rooster weathervane, which represents Catholicism and St. Peter.

    The stone cross outside the church is an original cross, believed to have been made in Norway before the first churches were built. It was moved here and the grave is fake to make the church look more authentic.

    Detailed overviews of how stave churches are constructed can be found on my stave church page.

    The Two Paths to Fantoft

    As I mentioned at the beginning, there are two paths to Fantoft: an easy one and a complicated one.

    The easy one is reached by driving or taking the Bybanen. The complicated one is reached by taking the public bus.

    Why is the complicated one, well, complicated? To get to the church from the public bus it’s a very steep path that is guaranteed to be slippery in winter. It’s also not as well-marked as the other path, so it’s easy to get lost. The bus also takes longer and requires one change.

    Getting to Fantoft: the Bybanen

    The best way to get to Fantoft Stave Church is to take the Bybanen from Bergen city centre.

    The Bybanen is the light-rail that goes between the city centre and the airport. From the first stop on the line, Byparken, it will take around 20 minutes to get to Fantoft.

    How to buy a ticket? Easy! There are ticket machines at the Byparken station. You can also download the Skyss app and use that.

    Where to get off? Easy! The stop is called ‘Fantoft’.

    Walking to Fantoft (from Bybanen)

    Okay, here’s the easiest way to walk there without getting lost.

    1. Once you get off the Bybanen, turn left
    2. You’ll see a Meny supermarket. Turn left onto the road just after the Meny (Fantoftvegen is the name)
    3. Follow Fantoftvegen. It will go up-hill slightly. You’ll pass a plant shop across the street on the right.
    4. You’ll eventually see a huge apartment block on the left that looks like a massive roof. You’re getting close! (See picture below for what the building looks like)
    5. Eventually, across the street from the apartment block is the parking for Fantoft Stave Church
    6. The road veers off to the left for a huge concrete office building. To the right of that road, you’ll see a walking path with a sign that says “Stavkirke” – that means stave church!
    7. Follow the walking path for a couple minutes. There will be a huge rock in the middle, and the path kind of (but not really) splits in two. Head to the left
    8. There is Fantoft Stave Church!

    In total, the whole walk takes less than 10 minutes and is not very steep.

    What if I take a taxi?

    Taxi’s are much easier than public transport, of course. However, Norwegian taxi’s are very expensive. Estimate it to cost at least 200 NOK for a one way trip. There is also no taxi rank near Fantoft, so you’ll have to call a taxi to come and get you.

    Visiting inside the church

    While it does look nicer outside than it does inside, I do recommend visiting the inside of Fantoft Stave Church.

    The church is open to the public throughout the summer months.

    In 2022, the church will be open from the 15th of May until the 15th of September and it costs 70 NOK per adult to visit the church.

    You can visit their website here: https://fantoftstavkirke.no/informasjon/

    It’s in Norwegian, but the important bits are clear to see.

    Final Thoughts

    Overall, there’s no need to overcomplicate it by using public buses. Fantoft is very easy to access with the light rail Bybanen. While the bus stops look closer on Google Maps, the path is steep and poorly marked. the light rail is lovely and the path is a pleasant walk. If you follow my route, you’ll be able to visit Fantoft Stave Church easily during your stay in Bergen.

  • Drive it Yourself: The Lofoten Islands Part 1: Å to Svolvær

    Drive it Yourself: The Lofoten Islands Part 1: Å to Svolvær

    The Lofoten Islands is probably one of the most famous places in Norway. Many people making the trip here want to head to Lofoten, and rightly so. Steep mountain peaks rise out of the ocean forming the Lofoten archipelago, one of the most scenic places in Norway. For thousands of years fishermen have lived at the foot of these peaks, building now iconic rorbuer and living off the cod fishing season. This history survives today on Lofoten, and you get to explore it with this road-trip!

    This road-trip is part one of two parts and takes you from Å in the south to Svolvær, which is a little over halfway up the archipelago.

    In this article...

    Downloadable Version of This Guide

    All of our guides can be downloaded via our online store. 

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

    Online Guide

    Downloadable Guide

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    The drive: Å i Lofoten to Svolvær

    Å i Lofoten

    Not many places in the world have just one letter for a name, so Å is a special place. Å means stream in Norwegian – sometimes the village is known as Å i Lofoten because there are many places known as Å in Norway. Until the 1990s, Å was mainly a small fishing village specialising in stockfish, but since then tourism has taken over as the main economic activity.

    Unique buildings in Å have been preserved, including a cod steamer from 1850, a bakery from 1844, several fisherman’s cabins, an old trading environment and more. Several of the houses are listed.

    Moskenes

    Village

    Moskenes is both the name of the municipality we are currently in and the ferry pier that will take you to Røst or Bodø. The name of the village itself is Sørvågen. Sørvågen has a population of around 700. It has one museum, the Norwegian Telecom Museum, because this is where the first telegraph between Northern Europe and Europe was connected in 1867.

    In the village you’ll see Moskenes Church, the main church for the region. The church is from 1819 and seats 280 people. The earliest mention of a church is from 1589, but the church was not considered new then. The church was replaced in 1819 to make a more modern and stable church.

    Reine

    Photo Stop

    The photo of Reine seen above is perhaps one of the most famous photos of Norway. It generally circulates the internet when discussions of Norway’s beauty arise, and it’s often featured on travel websites. This photo requires very little effort to get! As you turn off the E10 onto the road to Reine (there’s only one), there is a parking lot on the left right before you take the bridge. Step out the car and you have this view. It’s that easy! It’s even on Google Maps as “Reine korttidsparkeringsplass” (Reine Short Term Parking Place)

    Reine

    Reine has been a trading post since 1743, and it is an important centre for the fishing industry. The tradition of the iconic fishermen’s cabins, or rorbu, dates to the 18th century. They were seasonal shelters with one end of the house on pillars onto the fjord, allowing boats to dock next to the building. In Reine, many people still make their living from the sea and have passed on marine skills and traditions for generations. The prime fishing season is from January to April, when the Norwegian Arctic cod are spawning in the waters of Lofoten.

    Today Reine is arguably the most famous village in Lofoten. The stunning scenery of steep mountain peaks contrasted with the fishing village have made the rounds on the internet, and it’s  hard to plan a trip to Norway without seeing the famous Reine shot.

    Sakrisøy

    Island

    Sakrisøy is a small island located at the foot of the mountain Olstind. The island has been dominated by one family, the Gylseth family, for over 130 years. In 1889, Sven Kornelius Gylseth bought the island and built a manor house. He ran the local shop, but he was also a fish buyer. For five generations, the family has been buying cod from the fishermen and trading it with European merchants. One of the historic ships, M/V Pøyken, is on display. It shows how fishermen lived in Lofoten.

    Today the family runs a hotel, shop and restaurant in the original buildings. This is a great alternative for a place to stay if Reine is too crowded for you. The island is tiny, though. Blink and you’ll miss it!

    Hamnøy

    Island

    Hamnøy is a small island and village just next to Sakrisøy. The first buildings were constructed here as residential and business buildings. Today the fishing industry is still important to Hamnøy, but it also has some places to stay and tours. Most of the buildings are owned by the company Eliassen Rorbuer, who have managed to preserve many of the original rorbuer and business buildings. Additionally, they have a restaurant and many activities available such as boat trips, bike rental, diving, and kayaking. If you want to stay away from busy Reine, this is a great alternative.

    You can find their website here: https://rorbuer.no/

    Akkarvikodden

    Photo Stop

    Akkarvikodden is a scenic rest stop with beautiful views out to the south east.

    Flakstad Municipality

    The municipality of Flakstad is located on the northern part of the island Moskenesøya and the entire island Flakstadøya. The name comes from the Flakstad farm, which is where the Flakstad Church was built. The coat of arms shows a fastening device used on boats.  As you can probably guess, the municipality’s economy is dominated by fishing. The fishing fleet consists mostly of small boats.

    Sund

    Village/Detour

    Sund is a small fishing village with around 100 permanent residents. It is believed to be one of the oldest settlements on the Lofoten Islands. Today a large part of the village is preserved with traditional rorbuer and there’s the Sund Fiskerimuseum, which has a traditional workshop.

    In Sund there is a blacksmith who makes cormorants out of metal. These have been made in Sund for over fifty years and are a well-known souvenir to buy from Lofoten. The black cormorant is known in Norwegian folklore for living in the outermost reefs in the ocean. It stands there drying its wings before the next dive.

    The Sund Fiskerimuseum is a private museum with a collection gathered by the locals. The rorbu buildings by the museum are original – these are the original fisherman’s cabins and not ones that were built as tourist accommodation. The décor inside also shows how fishermen lived.

    Ramberg

    Village

    Ramberg is the municipal centre for Flakstad. The town has everything you’d expect for a town this size – tourist office, library, school, petrol station, restaurant, and accommodation. As with every place in Lofoten, the main industry here is fishing. The Lofoten fishing season is the dominant type of fishing, and the fleet is made up of small boats. Some farms here have sheep, while larger properties have cows.

    Ramberg is one of the few places in Lofoten where you can see the midnight sun. It is one of the few settlements on the side of Lofoten facing the sea, so it is possible to see the sun above the horizon. Most settlements are on the eastern part of the islands, facing the Norwegian mainland and therefore blocked from seeing the midnight sun. Ramberg is particularly known for its beach, which is one of the most beautiful in Lofoten.

    Flakstad Beach

    Beach

    Flakstad Beach is one of the most famous beaches in Lofoten. Here you can go surfing or take surfing classes. By the beach is the Lofoten Beach Camp. You can set up your tent here or park your mobile home. Some indoor rooms are available, too. Lofoten Beach Camp offers surf lessons and surf rentals, including the appropriate wetsuit for the arctic surf.

    Lofoten Beach Camp: https://www.lofotenbeachcamp.no/surf

    Flakstad Church

    Church

    Flakstad Church is one of the oldest churches on the Lofoten Islands. It is first mentioned in 1430 but is likely older than that. The church has a limestone baptismal font that dates to 1250-1300. This isn’t the same church today; the older medieval building has now been replaced since a storm around the year 1780 blew it down. Shortly afterwards, a new church was built on the same site using timber from Russia. One of the new chandeliers also came from Russia. Some items from the earlier church have been preserved. Flakstad Church has a characteristic onion dome on top.

    Nappskaret Photo Stop

    Photo stop

    Nappskaret is a scenic photo stop by the rock. You park your car and head up a small staircase to get some incredible views of the island.

    Vestvågøya

    Island

    After Nappskaret photo stop there is an undersea tunnel to the next island.

    Vestvågøya is a large island in the Lofoten Islands both in terms of geography and population (around 10,000 people live here). A large part of the island is relatively flat and marshy, while the outer parts of the island are mountainous. The highest point on the island is the 964m (3163ft) mountain Himmeltindan.

    Vestvågøy Municipality

    Vestvågøy is the most populous municipality in all Lofoten. The administrative centre is Leknes, which is close by to where we are right now.

    Leknes

    Town

    Leknes is one of the main towns in Lofoten. Leknes is in the geographic centre of the Lofoten islands and is the main town on the island Vestvågøya. Leknes is one of the few towns in Lofoten that is not by the sea and therefore not dependent on fishing; it is more of an administrative centre. Leknes has one of the main airports for Lofoten and it also has a cruise port for larger ships. Here is an upper secondary school, sports hall, and police station. The Lofoten Centre, one of Northern Norway’s largest shopping centres, is located here. The Lofothallen is one of the main concert venues on the Lofoten Islands.

    Leknes doesn’t have the same history as many of the other places in Lofoten; it didn’t really see growth until the 1960s. Because of this, there are few characteristic wooden buildings here. There are areas around Leknes that have finds from the Iron Age and Viking Age, though. We are heading towards one of these famous places.

    Unstad Beach

    Beach/Detour

    This small village has only around 15 people living here, but it is one of the most visited places in Lofoten. It is regarded as one of the best surf beaches on the Lofoten Islands. The area has been inhabited since before 1350; it is mentioned as being older than other farm in Borge and Valberg (Borg is well-known from Viking times). The population was at its peak in the 1930s, when around 350 people lived here.

    Today the village is centered around tourism, especially surfing. There are some beaches from the Iron Age and Middle Ages here, too. If you want to go surfing here, check out the company Unstad Arctic Surf.

    They have an excellent page all about the history of surfing in the area, which I encourage you to read: https://www.unstadarcticsurf.com/article/about

    Haukland Beach is the first beach we pass. The village is tiny – only 12 people live here all year round. Still, Haukland Beach is known as one of the most beautiful beaches in Norway.  From Haukland Beach, you can follow the old road (hiking and cycling only) to Uttakleiv Beach for even more stunning views. There are also hiking trails to the tops of the mountain peaks you can see.

    Uttakleiv is one of the most beautiful beaches on Lofoten. There aren’t many places in the world where you can see steep mountains, white sandy beaches, and farms all in one shot! Uttakleiv is a great spot to sit and watch the midnight sign. A lot of people also come here to observe the northern lights.

    The village is a protected area for its natural habitat and historic farms. The old road that used to connect Uttakleiv to the rest of Lofoten is now a hiking and cycling track, and a great thing to do it you have the time.

    Borg Viking Museum

    Museum

    The Borg Viking Museum is a reconstructed longhouse built on the site where one of the biggest Viking Age archaeological discoveries was made. The inside musuem has all the artefacts on display, and in summer you can follow the cultural heritage trail down to a beach. 

    Torvdalshalsen

    Viewpoint

    At this viewpoint you get a very clear overview of the Borg region, and you can almost imagine the Vikings arriving at the harbour and making their way to the longhouse! There are some useful information signs here, too.

    Austvågøya

    Island

    The next island we cross onto is Austvågøya. Austvågøya is the north easternmost of the large islands in Lofoten. Around 9,000 people live on Austvågøya, and many of them live in Svolvaer – the largest city in Lofoten. The island mostly consists of mountains; the largest is Higravstinden, which is 1,146m (3,760ft). One of the most famous mountains, however, is Vågakallen (942m or 3,091ft) – it towers over the picturesque village of Henningsvaer. Vågakallen is famous in troll stories about the Lofoten islands – it is the name of one of the trolls who lived here. The famous Trollfjord is also located on Austvågøya.

    Kabelvåg

    Kabelvåg is the historic capital of Lofoten and finds have been made here that date back to the Viking Age. 

    Vågan Church

    Church

    This is the main church for the municipality of Vågan, and one of the most beautiful churches in Lofoten. The church is built in the cruciform style from 1898. The church seats around 1,200 people, making it the largest wooden building in Northern Norway. Because of that, it often gets the nickname Lofoten Cathedral.

    The earliest church dates to the 12th century when King Øystein Magnusson founded Vågan. It was likely a stave church and probably stood 200m (660ft) west of the present site. The church was renovated in the 1600s, but by the early 1700s it was too deteriorated and had to be rebuilt. A new church was completed in 1712, but by the late 1800s it was becoming too small due to the huge population growth in Kabelvåg. So, in 1898 a new church was built about 200m to the east of the old church.

    Svolvær

    With a population of 4,720, Svolvær is the largest city in the Lofoten Islands. The settlement is old; Svolvær was first mentioned in 1567. However, Svolvær didn’t gain prominence until the early 20th century when the motorized boats needed a modern harbour.

    The cod fisheries are still an important industry in Svolvær, but tourism is one of the main industries in the city. Svolvær is also a major transportation hub and favourite starting point for tourists. The Hurtigruten also stops here twice a day. It is possible to do sea eagle safaris, whale watching tours, and take a scenic cruise into the nearby Trollfjord. Svolvær also has a downhill skiing centre. In town, you’ll find the Lofoten War Memorial Museum a Magic Ice Bar, and numerous galleries.

    Continue the Drive

    The Lofoten Islands Part 2: Svolvær to Harstad

    Continue the drive through the Lofoten archipelago. 

    Previous Drive

    Norway's Coastal Road Part 5: Forøy to Bodø

    Bodø is a great place to visit before visiting the Lofoten Islands. 

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Drive it Yourself: The Coastal Road Day 5 – Forøy to Bodø

    Drive it Yourself: The Coastal Road Day 5 – Forøy to Bodø

    The Coastal Road that runs from Brønnøysund to Bodø is one of Norway’s 18 national tourist roads. At 433km (269 mi), it is also the longest of all the tourist roads. You can’t do it in one day: some websites will recommend up to a week. In June 2021 Sean (the husband) and I did the coastal road in three days. It definitely felt quick and we couldn’t make all the detours we wanted, but we did it!

    I’ve put together a guide breaking down the coastal road. My guide includes the history & everyday life of the region, plus options for your own customisations. 

    Kystriksveien vs. Helgelandskysten

    The road has two names, and this can be pretty confusing. Kystriksveien begins in Steinkjer just outside Trondheim and provides more options for detours to the islands. 

    On the other hand, Helgelandskysten begins in Holm just south of Brønnøysund, where my guide begins. It features more-so on the one highway, known as the Fv17. 

    When driving the road, the brown tourist signs will follow the path of the Helgelandskysten national tourist road, which is on the Fv17. However, you can get a free guide online for the Kystriksveien. 

    Both roads end in Bodø. 

    Highlights of today’s section

    • This stretch of road is probably the most scenic part of the whole drive. We’ll pass steep snowy mountains, a glacier, and beautiful fjords
    • There is plenty to see on this road – Svartisen glacier, Gildeskål historic site, and Salstraumen maelstrom.

    In this article...

    Download this Guide

    All of our guides can be downloaded via our online store. 

    Download this guide to have it as a PDF ready to go for your road-trip!

    All downloadable guides come with an interactive Google Map for easier navigation. 

    Online Guide

    Downloadable Guide

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    The drive: Forøy to Bodø

    Forøy

    Village

    Forøy is a small village with several camping grounds and cabins for rent. It’s on the Fv17, making it a convenient place to begin today’s drive!

    You may or may not be staying in this area – we found it to be the easiest place to split the drive! You’re close to Svartisen glacier and some lovely hiking trails. Otherwise, Ørnes is another popular spot to spend the night. 

    Braset Picnic Area

    Scenic Overlook

    We are at the Braset picnic area, which is one of the best places to get a photo of Svartisen glacier. Svartisen is Norway’s second largest glacier, covering around 370km2. It used to be one continuous glacier, but from the 18th century it has been split in two: we are seeing the western glacier. The part of Svartisen you can see from here is Engabreen, one of the tongues of Svartisen glacier. Engabreen ends at the lowest point of any glacier on the European mainland, at 20m (66ft) above sea level.

    In 1992, the Norwegian Water Resources and Energy Directorate established a glacier laboratory, the ‘Svartisen subglacial laboratory’ the only one of its kind in the world. It is in a tunnel under Engabreen, and the researchers can see the underside of glacier. They take samples of the old ice and can get an understanding of how glaciers move. To access the underside of the glacier, researchers use hot water to melt a cave to get into the ice. The ice contracts quickly – in about 24 hours it’ll be cover.

    Svartisen is being affected by climate change. From 1930 to 1960 Engabreen retreated by about two kilometres in length and lost about 200m of thickness. It increased again between the 1970s and 1990s. As of 2010, the glacier arm has retreated over 100m. In total, over the last 100 years Svartisen has largely diminished. This has led to the emergence of land and water that has been under ice for thousands of years. Life forms have been established here.

    Near here is a ferry that will take you right up to the glacier in the summer months. You’ll see signs shortly after leaving this parking spot. On the other side, it is possible to go regular hiking or glacial hiking with a guide. Bikes can also be rented from the ferry pier.

    For information on ferry times, click here: https://www.engenbreenskyss.no/ruteinformasjon/

    Svartisen Tunnel (7.4km)

    Tunnel

    The tunnel is from 1986; before then, there was a ferry to take you to Ørnes. At the time when it opened, it was Norway’s longest tunnel. Today, it is the fourth-longest tunnel in Nordland county. It was also the first in Norway to be made with the use of a tunnel boring machine – the tunnel doesn’t have a centre line as it is rather narrow.

    Glomfjord

    Town

    Glomfjord is an industrial village located at the end of the Glomfjorden. The village is based around the Glomfjord hydroelectric power plant. Norsk Hydro began construction for fertilizer production here in 1912, with power production beginning in 1920. The facilities were bought by the state in 1918 but leased to Hydro in 1947. Today there is a large industrial park here with many industries.

    During World War II, the area was of importance to the occupying German forces due to the production of heavy water. The sabotage operation Operation Muskedunder took place here. Twelve commandos from England, Canada and Norway came ashore and carried out a sabotage operation against Glomfjord Kraftverk’s turbine hall. After the operation, the Germans gave up the development of an aluminium plant here. Eight of the saboteurs were arrested during the operation; the other four made it over the mountains to Sweden.

    The Glomfjorden is 21km (13 mi) long and varies from 1km to 3km (0.6 – 1.8 mi) wide.

    Neverdal

    Village

    Neverdal is a small village just outside Ørnes. The village has a supermarket, café, kindergarten, and a boating association. Some of the ladies in the village have started a shop for their handicrafts, called Krambua.The Neverdal School closed in 2019 and the pupils then had to travel to school in Ørnes. There is a private school in Neverdal. There are a lot of sport activities in Neverdal. Every May, the village hosts the Neverdal tournament, where around 50 teams register and play over one weekend.

    During World War II, there was a prison camp here with around 120 prisoners, mostly Russian and Ukrainian prisoners of war. There are bunker facilities in Neverdal as well as cannon positions. The students at the old Neverdal School wrote a book about Neverdal during World War II. 

    Ørnes Travel Guide

    Ørnes was originally a homestead and farm. In 1794, the then owner Elling Pedersen, received a permit to run an inn on the site. The homestead grew into a trading place and eventually a market town. Some of the buildings from the 1800s remain, including several dwellings, fisherman’s cabins, boathouses, and barns. You can find them in the town centre: the old homestead is a museum called Ørnes handelsted. You can learn more about the museum on their website: https://nordlandsmuseet.no/ornes-handelssted

    Today Ørnes is one of the stops for Hurtigruten, and it is often named the most beautiful approach to port on the entire Hurtigruten journey. If travelling north, Ørnes is the port where they begin the Arctic circle ceremony. 

    Reipa

    Village

    Reipå is the largest fishing harbour in Meløy municipality. Agriculture also takes place in the village. The local church, Fore Church, is from 1909 and is built in a neo-gothic, long church style. The church is a concert venue during the ‘Summer Day’ festival in Meløy.

    The village has a huge focus on being environmentally friendly, and the local school was received a Green Badge for its efforts to better the environment.

    Gildeskål Municipality

    Gildeskål Municipality is part of the Bodø region and the traditional district of Salten. The name comes from an old farm called Gildeskål, which is a famous historic site. We’ll go there on this drive.

    The municipality is primarily an agricultural and fishing municipality, and aquaculture is the largest industry.

    Ureddplassen

    Photo stop

    This is a scenic photostop and rest place with a view over the fjord towards the open sea. On a very clear day, you can see the Lofoten Wall on the horizon. Ureddplassen is also a memorial place, and there’s a monument here for those who left their lives when the submarine ‘Uredd’ hit a mine during World War II.

    You’ll find some public restrooms and a picnic bench here.

    Storvik

    Photo stop

    We are passing the rest stop Storvika. At Storvika you’ll see a stone vault bridge that connects the rest area with a sandy beach. It’s a nice spot to stop for photos.

    https://www.nasjonaleturistveger.no/en/routes/helgelandskysten?attraction=Storvika

    Gildeskål

    Town/Detour

    The churchyard consists of a medieval church of stone from the 12th century, the Gildeskål main church from 1881, the old rectory from the 18th century and two old storehouses.

    There have been people here for at least 1,000 years. The church was historically in the centre of the village. Based on the farm name and finds of objects and burial mounds from the Viking Age, it has been assumed that the church may have been a gathering place in pre-Christian times. The name Gildeskål can also refer to a meeting house or a guild hall. It is not known how old the church really is.

    The property today is maintained by the Nordland Museum. There are exhibitions about the place’s history, religious life, church customs and folk life. The white and red wooden buildings are the Gildeskål vicarage. These buildings are from around 1750.

    The Gildeskål Main Church is built in a neo-Gothic style from 1881. The old Gildeskål church is a medieval building in stone. It’s believed to be from the 12th century, though it is first mentioned in written sources from 1589.

    The cultural landscape around the churchyard is untouched by recent development. Burial mounds, old stone mounds and the old church path are examples of what has been preserved in the area. From the church hill there is an excellent view of the islands, shipping lanes, and flora in the area.  

    Bodø Municipality

    Bodø Municipality is the county capital for Nordland. Most of the population for the municipality lives around Bodø city as well as Saltstraumen, two places we’ll visit on this drive. The coat-of-arms reflects the midnight sun and is based on an old coat-of-arms from 1889.

    Saltstraumen

    Tidal Current

    Salstraumen is one of the strongest tidal currents in the world.

    I cover Saltstraumen in a separate article. 

    Godøystraumen

    Tidal Current

    Godøystraumen is a lesser known maelstrom near Saltstraumen. There is a carpark to the left of the road if you want to stop and take photos. A lot of people come here to go fishing. 

    Bodø

    We have arrived at our final destination, Bodø. You can find a comprehensive overview of Bodø on my dedicated travel guide page. 

    Continue the drive

    Lofoten Islands: Å to Svolvær

    After finishing the coastal road, why not take the ferry from Bodø to Moskenes and do the Lofoten Tourist Road?

    Previous Route

    Norway's Coastal Road Part 4: Sandnessjøen to Forøy

    The previous day, we drove from Sandnessjøen to Forøy on Norway’s Coastal Road. 

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Drive it Yourself: The Coastal Road Day 4 – Sandnessjøen – Forøy

    Drive it Yourself: The Coastal Road Day 4 – Sandnessjøen – Forøy

    The Coastal Road that runs from Brønnøysund to Bodø is one of Norway’s 18 national tourist roads. At 433km (269 mi), it is also the longest of all the tourist roads. You can’t do it in one day: some websites will recommend up to a week. In June 2021 Sean (the husband) and I did the coastal road in three days. It definitely felt quick and we couldn’t make all the detours we wanted, but we did it!

    I’ve put together a guide breaking down the coastal road. My guide includes the history & everyday life of the region, plus options for your own customisations. 

    Kystriksveien vs. Helgelandskysten

    The road has two names, and this can be pretty confusing. Kystriksveien begins in Steinkjer just outside Trondheim and provides more options for detours to the islands. 

    On the other hand, Helgelandskysten begins in Holm just south of Brønnøysund, where my guide begins. It features more-so on the one highway, known as the Fv17. 

    When driving the road, the brown tourist signs will follow the path of the Helgelandskysten national tourist road, which is on the Fv17. However, you can get a free guide online for the Kystriksveien. 

    Both roads end in Bodø. 

    Highlights of today’s section

    • This stretch of the road is pure nature: there aren’t many towns or settlements that we pass today, but the scenery is absolutely stunning.
    • On one of the ferries, we cross the Arctic Circle! You will see a marker to indicate where the Arctic Circle is.
    • For those interested in World War II history, we pass one of the remaining coastal forts: Grønsvik

    In this article...

    Download this Guide

    All of our guides can be downloaded via our online store. 

    Download this guide to have it as a PDF ready to go for your road-trip!

    All downloadable guides come with an interactive Google Map for easier navigation. 

    Online Guide

    Downloadable Guide

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    The drive: Sandnessjøen to Forøy

    Sandnessjøen

    Sandnessjøen is a small town on Norway’s coast. Here you’ll find a cosy town centre, some incredible murals, and even some Viking history!

    Helgeland Bridge

    Bridge

    The Helgeland Bridge is a cable-stayed bright that crosses the Leirfjorden between the mainland and the island of Alsta (where Sandnessjøen is).

    Facts:

    • Built 1989 – 1991
    • Officially opened in July 1991
    • Construction cost 200 million kr
    • Was a toll bridge until 23 June 2005
    • 1,065m (3,494ft) long
    • 12 spans – the longest is 425m (1394ft)
    • Maximum clearance below the sea is 45m (148ft)
    • Foundations extend to a depth of 31m (102ft)
    • In 2010, it was named Norway’s most beautiful bridge

    Leirfjord

    Population (2020): 2294

    Population density 5.1 inhabitants per square kilometre (13 sq/mi).

    Population has increased by 7.2% over the previous 10 years.

    The name comes from the Leirfjorden. The old name of the fjord is probably just Leiri, derived from the river Leira, which has its mouth at the end of the fjord. Leirr means ‘clay’. The Leirfjord is 20km (12 mi) long.

    The coat of arms represents forestry and agriculture in the municipality. Those are the main industries, along with fish processing.

    Levang - Nesna Ferry

    Ferry

    Levang is a small settlement. We are here to take the ferry to Nesna. 
    Timetable (PDF)

    Nesna

    Nesna is a small town with a population of 1761 spread over the municipality. The town has a long history of education, and one of the first higher education centres for teachers was here. The college, Nesna University College, is still in the town.

    Nesna Church is from 1880, though the earliest existing church is from 1589. Nesna is one of the ports of call on the Hurtigruten: the northbound ferry arrives at 5:30pm and the southbound at 11:15pm.

    Roadside Stops

    Scenic Overlooks

    The stretch of road between Nesna and Myklebustad is gorgeous. The best photo stops are on the opposite side of the road, and the best views are behind you. Trust your instinct and stop as much as possible!

    Rana Municipality

    This is the third largest municipality in Northern Norway (4,460km2 or 1,720 sq mi).

    Population 26,083 (2021) with a population density of 6.2 inhabitants per sq km (16/sq mi).

    Population has increased by 3.6% over the past 10 years.

    Most of the population lives in Mo i Rana.

    The name Rana is either Norse or Sami origin. It may come from the Norse river name Raðund, with Raðr meaning ‘fast’. The name is also associated with the Ume Sami legend of Sala Niejta (“daughter of the sun”) and Rana Niejta (“daughter of the earth”). In that case, Rana was the summer’s green ground for the reindeer husbandry. A Sami settlement near the Swedish border was called “Ranbyen”.

    The municipality is located just south of the Arctic circle, on the southern side of the Saltfjellet mountains. The main city Mo i Rana is so close to the Arctic Circle that parts of the sun are continuously over the horizon from early June to early July. There is no true polar night, though. There is often a lot of snow here in the winter, while summer days are among the warmest in Northern Norway.

    Rana municipality is rich in iron ore and has an industrial history dating back to 1799. The coat-of arms represent the forest (green) and the wealth of minerals (yellow). The Mo Industrial Park is from 1991 and was a result of the restructuring of the Norwegian Ironworks.

    Sjona Church

    Church

    On the right is Sjona Church. This church is from 1896 and was built as a small chapel. In 2003, the chapel was upgraded to full parish church status. It seats about 170 people. 

    Lurøy Municipality

    The municipality has a population of 1,890 with a density of 7.3 inhabitants per square kilometre (19/sq mi). The population has decreased by 0.5% over the last 10 years.

    Lurøy municipality is located just south of the Arctic Circle. The Lurøygården farm on the island of Lurøya is more than 200 years old and has a renaissance-style garden.

    Stokkvågen

    Village

    Stokkvågen is where you can take a ferry out to the islands that are part of Lerøy municipality. You don’t take a ferry here – keep going straight!

    Grønsvik Coastal Fort

    Historic Site

    The Grønsvik coastal fort was built by Soviet prisoners of war in the period 1942 to 1945 as part of the Atlantic Wall. The Atlantic Wall was designed to protect the German occupied territory from the British and American attacks.

    The main task of the fort was to defend the fjord areas towards Mo i Rana and Mosjøen, thus protecting the main road (now the E6) and the Nordlandsbanen (Nordland Railway) from attack.

    The main equipment at the Grønsvik fortress was four 155mm field cannons of French origin. The fort had ship cannons and could follow sea targets.

    After the war, the fort was subject to major damage. Most of the equipment was repurposed, while the cannons were melted down.

    Today it has been partly rebuilt and is now a museum. The exhibitions inside educated about World War II in this part of Norway. Outside you can follow marked trails to explore the ruins of the fort. There are information boards explaining what everything was. There is a memorial to the 77 Soviet and 65 Polish prisoners of war who were forced to participate in the construction of the fort.

    The indoor exhibitions are open in summer, while the surrounding area is open and free to walk around throughout the year.

    Kleivhalsen

    Scenic Overlook

    Park your car here and walk up the hill to get some amazing photos.

    Kilborghavn - Jektvik

    Ferry

    The ferry journey takes a little over an hour. Normally the staff onboard will announce when you cross the Arctic Circle, and you’ll see the globe by the water!


    Timetable (PDF)

    Ågskardet - Forøy

    Ferry

    It’s time for the last ferry of the day! This ferry takes you to Forøy, where the day’s tour ends. 

    We spent the night at a nearby campground before continuing north to our final destination, Bodø. 


    Timetable (PDF)

    Continue the drive

    Norway's Coastal Road Part 5: Forøy to Bodø

    Be sure to take the final stretch of the Coastal Road, which goes all the way to Bodø.

    Previous Route

    Norway's Coastal Road Part 3: Brønnøysund - Sandnessjøen

    The previous day, we drove from Brønnøysund to Sandnessjøen on the second part of the coastal road. 

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!