Emma

Hey! My name is Emma. I'm from Australia but have lived in Bergen, Norway, for the last eight years. I work as a local guide and tour leader for all over Northern Europe. The Hidden North is an online travel guide I have made to help you plan your own visit here.

  • Førde, National Tourist Roads, Road-trips, Sognefjord

    Drive it Yourself: The Gaularfjellet Tourist Road

    Drive it Yourself: The Gaularfjellet Tourist Road

    Gaularfjellet is a mountain area that separates the traditional regions of Sogn and Sunnfjord. The mountains reach as high as 1,615 metres. The tourist road has been open since 1938 and is very popular because of the rapid transition from fjord to mountain. For many, though, it is still a well-kept secret as it is not as popular or well-known as the other tourist roads.

    The road was established as a tourist road because of its high number of waterfalls but also the engineering that went into building a road over the mountains.

    We decided to do this drive after heading to Balestrand for the day from Bergen. This tourist road isn’t as talked about as the others that I’ve been on, so I was curious to see exactly what it was like. I must admit – it was pretty neat! It’s not as spectacular as, say, Trollstigen or Hardanger, but there’s something charming about this tourist road. Maybe it’s because no one really knows about it. It’s much shorter than the other tourist roads, but in that short amount of time you’ll see some spectacular country. 

    In this article...

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    Our premium version of this guide makes driving around Norway much easier! The printable guides come with:

    • Specific information about driving times, travel distances, and ferries
    • Detours to historic or unique attractions or hikes and walks to enhance your trip
    • Information about facilities along the way, including petrol stations, supermarkets, hotels, campgrounds (with RV parking) and museums
    • Historic overview of the road and regions
    • Interactive Google Map link with directions, points of interest, and practical stops

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    The drive: Gaularfjellet Tourist Road

    Balestrand

    This drive begins in Balestrand, a scenic tourist town by the Sognefjord. 

    Balestrand Travel Guide

    Dragsvik

    Settlement

    Located just outside Balestrand, Dragsvik is a resort hotel and ferry pier. The ferry connects the settlement to the other side of the Sognefjord. The hotel has both cabins and rooms, and they provide lots of information about hikes in the region. 

    Gaularsfjellet Viewing Platform

    Photo stop

    The viewpoint opened in 2016. The viewpoint is a construction that has three ‘wings’ where you can take in unobstructed views over the mountains. There’s also a restroom here.

    Sunnfjord Municipality

    Sunnfjord is a traditional district and municipality. The central geographic characteristic of the region are the fjords and outdoor activities, including fishing, white-water rafting, and glaciers.

    Førde

    Førde is a town built up around the river Jølstra at the point where it flows into the Førdefjord. The town is surrounded by mountains, as we can see. Around 10,500 people live in Førde, making it a relatively large town for the region. There are schools at all levels here, as well as a major hospital. There is also a small airport.

    Førde is an administrative centre, so it has all the facilities for the surrounding area. The town does have a slight industrial feel; it has often been voted by Norwegians as one of the ugliest towns in Norway. This is mostly due to the neighbourhood of Øyrane, which sits on the fjord by the river and was developed as a shipyard in the 1970s.

    Førde Travel Guide

    Where to Go From Here

    Førde is located on the E39, which links Bergen to Ålesund. We have written a guide to the drive from Bergen north along the E39, which you can view below. 

    Bergen to Balestrand on the E39

    You can get a printable version of this drive over on our online store. 

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Aurland, Flåm, Hallingdal, Hønefoss, Lærdal, National Highways, Oslo, Road-trips

    Drive it Yourself: Oslo to Aurland via Hemsedal & Borgund Stave Church

    Drive it Yourself: Oslo to Aurland via Hemsedal & Borgund Stave Church

    There are many different ways to get between Oslo & Aurland, but this one is arguably the quickest. It doesn’t follow the one major highway the entire way, so it’s also a good way to mix it up a little. While the scenery might not be as dramatic as the other ways to get to the west from Oslo, it is an easy drive with some interesting places to stop along the way. 

    In this article...

    Download this Guide

    All of our guides can be downloaded via our online store. 

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

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    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Information about facilities along the way

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the region & towns
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Facilities including supermarkets, toilets, petrol, hotels, cafes, restaurants with addresses.

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    Visit Our YouTube Channel

    The drive: E6 between Oslo and Aurland

    Oslo

    This drive begins in Norway’s capital, Oslo. You can find a detailed guide to Oslo on the travel guide section of the page below. 

    Oslo Travel Guide

    Hole Municipality

    The municipality is located around the woodland of Oslo as well as the Tyrifjord (which is a lake). The soil is very fertile here and is suited to growing fruit, berries, and other agricultural products.

    The coat-of-arms show four gold crowns to symbolise the four Norwegian Kings who lived in the municipality: King Halfdan the Black, King Sigurd Syr, King Olav Haraldsson (St. Olav) and King Harald Hårdråde. As you can imagine, this is a very historic area. There are archaeological finds from the Roman and Migration periods, and it is known as one of the traditional landscapes in the Viking Age and plays a prominent role in the Norse sagas.

    There are a few historic churches in the area. Stein Church, now in ruins, was constructed in the latter half of the 1100s. Bønsnes Church is a medieval church from 1100 and is still standing today. Hole church is from around 1200 and sits on a hill overlooking the Tyrifjord.

    Hole is part of the traditional region of Ringerike. Ringerike is associated with the most notable kings in Norwegian history. It has also given its name to a style of animal art, first discovered on runestones in Ringerike.

    Tyrifjord

    Lake

    Tyrifjorden is a lake in the traditional region of Ringerike. It is Norway’s fifth largest lake. It Is around 26km long and has an average depth of 93 metres. It used to be part of the sea, and there are many finds from that time. It is one of the reasons it was popularly settled around by the Vikings.

    The lake is one of the country’s richest lakes in terms of species. Several areas directly adjacent to the fjord have conservation value due to their unique flora and fauna. The slopes and flats around the lake are fertile and the mild climate means that intensive agriculture is carried out around the lake.

    Free fishing without a licence is based on tradition and custom. The Tyrifjorden has brown trout, crayfish, and pike. The crayfish population is the largest in Norway. Perch can also be caught here. The lake is also used as drinking water for the surrounding areas.

    It is not a fjord by English definitions. Norwegians commonly use the word ‘fjord’ to mean any body of water; many lakes are known as fjords in Norway.

    Sundvollen

    Village

    Sundvollen is a small village located along the Tyrifjorden. Sundvollen is known for its hotels; Sundvolden hotel is one of Norway’s oldest hotels. It was first mentioned in written sources in 1648. Another hotel, Kleivstua Hotel, is an inn that catered to travellers along the Old Royal Bergen Road, the historic road between east and west. The road also formed the pilgrim’s road between Oslo and Trondheim.

    Ringerike Municipality

    Ringerike is a historic region with some of Norway’s earliest kings coming from here. It is believed that the first kingdoms of Norway settled around the Tyrifjorden, hence the name Ringerike (The Old Norse name was Hringariki; hringr means ‘ring’ and riki means ‘kingdom). The first permanent settlements were here between 3000 and 2000 BC.

     Ringerike is one of the medium-sized urban municipalities in Norway and is the largest forestry industry municipality in the country. Considerable agriculture is also carried out here.

    Hønefoss

    We are passing by the town of Hønefoss. The town is built around a waterfall called Hønefossen (foss=waterfall) and grew in relation to the timber industry. Sawmills were placed along the waterfall to utilise its power. The last half of the 19th century brought significant development for the town. The connection to Drammen via railway in 1868 was important for the town.

    Flå Municipality

    Flå is the southernmost part of the traditional Hallingdal valley. Flå is known around Norway for Bjørneparken, which is a park with bears, moose, dear, wolves, foxes and lynx. Flå is also the birthplace of Olav Thon, who went on to become one of the richest men in Norway with his chain of hotels.

    Agriculture is the most important industry in Flå, though the timber industry is also important. The production on the farms is forest and grain, often with sheep and sometimes llamas as well. There are many cabins in the area as it is a popular spot to hunt for deer. Fishing is also organised in several area, and you can buy a licence at most petrol stations.

    Nesbyen Municipality

    Nesbyen municipality is part of the Hallingdal valley. Ancient trading routes went to Western Norway through the Valdres and Hallingdal valleys and then down to Røldal and Odda. The area here was originally populated by migrants from the west.

    Nesbyen has a boreal climate with warm summers and cold winters. The 20th of June 1970, Nesbyen recorded the all-time high in Norway at 35.6C (96.1F). Nesbyen also has a record cold temperature for the area at -38C. There is an old meteor crater just north of Nesbyen. About 650 million years ago, a 200-300 metres meteorite struck this area. This resulted in a 5km impact crater.

    Nesbyen

    Nesbyen is a small town with around 2,100 people living here. The village centre is surrounded by farms as agriculture is an important industry here.

    Hallingdal

    Hallingdal is one of the major valleys of eastern Norway. The valley is V-shaped and is drained by the Hallingdal River that comes in from the Hardangervidda plateau. Hallingdal is one of Norway’s busiest valleys as Highway 7 and the Bergen to Oslo train run through the valley.

    The valley has been an important trading valley for thousands of years. In the early years, Hallingdal prospered from trading with iron and trading routes developed throughout the Iron Age. Hallingdal farmers also traded cattle. The valley is characterised by its livestock farming, especially wool, dairy and eat production.

    Hallingdal is known for its unique art and music culture. Hallingdal has developed its own style of rosemaling with a distinct symmetrical style. The music of Hallingdal is traditionally dominated by the hardanger fiddle. The dance tunes have a distinct pattern, following three different lines of tradition. The Halling is the name of an old folk dance that is used in Norway. Each dancer is alone, and the climax of the dance is known as thrown Halling, where the goal is to kick down a hat from a stick.

    Hallingdal Travel Guide

    Gol Municipality

    Gol is a small settlement with around 3,200 people living here. It is the trading, service, and communication centre for the municipality.

    Gol used to have a stave church, called the Gol Stave Church. The church was from around 1216, but in the 1870s it was too small for the congregation. It was bought by King Oscar II’s Collections – later the Norwegian Folk Museum that’s now the open-air museum in Oslo. A new church was built in Gol.

    Gol has now built a kid’s park called Gordarike, which is inspired by Norse mythology and the Vikings. They have built a replica of the Gol Stave Church as a highlight of the park.

    Hemsedal Municipality

    Nesbyen municipality is part of the Hallingdal valley. Ancient trading routes went to Western Norway through the Valdres and Hallingdal valleys and then down to Røldal and Odda. The area here was originally populated by migrants from the west.

    Nesbyen has a boreal climate with warm summers and cold winters. The 20th of June 1970, Nesbyen recorded the all-time high in Norway at 35.6C (96.1F). Nesbyen also has a record cold temperature for the area at -38C. There is an old meteor crater just north of Nesbyen. About 650 million years ago, a 200-300 metres meteorite struck this area. This resulted in a 5km impact crater.

    Trøym

    Town

    Trøym is the administrative centre of Hemsedal. Most people (myself included) mistakenly call the village Hemsedal because it has all the main services for the municipality. For example, we are passing Hemsedal Church from the 1880s. The old stave church used to be here.

    Hemsedalsfjellet

    Mountain Range

    Shortly after leaving Trøym, you will cross the Hemsedalsfjellet Mountain Range over into Western Norway. The road can close in winter. 

    Lærdal Municipality

    Lærdal is a municipality in western Norway. It has a relatively dry climate, with around 600mm of rain a year. Agriculture is one of the biggest industries here. The lower part of the valley has one of the country’s best climactic conditions for growing vegetables.

    The river running through Lærdal is called the Lærdal River and is known as the ‘Queen of the Salmon rivers’ because it is one of Norway’s most famous salmon rivers. In the valley, you can hunt deer, reindeer, and elk.

    Lærdal is an important place historically. It has been inhabited for 6,000 years and has always been on the main road between east and west in southern Norway. Originally the road was a footpath. In 1647, Kongevegen was built as a more modern road, and then in the 1840s it was upgraded to Den Bergenske Hovedvei. You can still see remains of Kongevegen in Lærdal municipality; today it is a hiking path.

    Borgund Stave Church

    Located close to the main highway is Borgund Stave Church, one of the 28 remaining stave churches in Norway. 

    Borgund Stave Church

    Lærdal

    Town

    This has been an important trading place since the Middle Ages. Lærdal sits on the Sognefjord, which goes approximately halfway into the country between the coast and the Swedish border. Therefore, it has always been preferred to travel by sea. Lærdal developed as a natural marketplace because of its position along the fjord. Coastal farmers brought herring and fish and exchanged goods with the mountain farmers who came from the Hallingdal and Valdres valleys.

    Historic wooden houses survive in Lærdal today that are connected to this historic marketplace.

    Lærdal Travel Guide

    Aurlandsfjellet

    If you are travelling in summer and don’t want to drive through the long tunnel, you can take the scenic detour on the Aurlandsfjellet Tourist Road. Allow an extra hour or so to do the drive, but it is well worth it!

    You can find our guide to Aurlandsfjellet below. 

    Aurlandsfjellet Tourist Road

    Lærdal Tunnel

    Tunnel

    The Lærdal Tunnel is 24.5km (15.2 mi) long. It is the longest road tunnel in the world. Construction started in 1995 and the tunnel opened in 2000, costing around 1 billion NOK ($113 million USD).

    The design of the tunnel takes into consideration the mental strain for the drivers, so the tunnel is divided into four sections, separated by three large mountain caves. The caves have blue lighting with yellow lights at the fringes to give an impression of sunrise. The caves are meant to break the routine.

    There are no emergency exits. Emergency phones are every 250m. There are also 15 turning areas in case of an accident. High air quality is achieved through ventilation and purification.

    Aurland Municipality

    People have lived off hunting and fishing in Aurland for thousands of years. Farming started around 2,000 years ago and agriculture is still an important industry here. Tourism is also emerging in importance as Aurland is home to the famous Flåm village as well as Gudvangen.

    In the village of Aurland you’ll find Vangen Church, a medieval stone church from 1202. It is built in the early Gothic style influenced by English architecture. The fact that they used stone as a building material indicates how important Aurland was as a town.

    Flåm

    Our drive concludes in Flåm, one of the most popular places in Norway for tourism. If you want somewhere a little quieter, you can choose to stay in Aurland instead. 

    You can find our travel guide for Flåm below. 

    Flåm Travel Guide

    Where to Go From Here

    Flåm is perfectly located to continue your road-trip. You can either take the ferry over to Balestrand and continue from there, or you can continue on to Bergen. 

    Flåm to Bergen on the E16
    Bergen to Balestrand

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Stockholm, Sweden

    Stockholm City Hall: Why it’s Worth a Visit

    Stockholm City Hall: Why it’s Worth a Visit

    I must admit, the first time I heard I was going to be taking people to Stockholm City Hall, I was a little bored by the idea. For many of us, the city hall’s are nothing to write home about. These are government buildings – how exciting can they be?

    Well, I was very wrong!

    In Scandinavia, so much care and detail is put into the city hall’s. These are impressive buildings that tell the history of their city in such detail. Oslo’s city hall is excellent, but Stockholm’s city hall is the clear winner out of all the countries.

    While you have to take a guided tour inside the city hall (compared to Oslo, which has free entry), it is well worth allocating the time on your trip to Stockholm to join one of the tours.

    Stockholm City Hall is famous for its architecture and large, grand ceremonial halls, but it is also the location of the Nobel Prize banquet.

    Here’s a little about Stockholm City Hall.

    In this article...

    Stockholm Travel Guide
    Sweden Travel Guide

    Construction of City Hall

    The decision to build a new city hall was made in 1907. An architectural competition was held, and after several rounds Ragnar Östberg was the winner. His opponent, Carl Westman, got the job of building the Stockholm Court House instead. Östberg didn’t stick to his original plans so much; he kept changing the design and even incorporated elements from Westman’s drafts. Most importantly, it was Westman’s idea to have the tower. Östberg added the lantern on the top of the tower with the three crowns, which is the Swedish coat-of-arms.

    Construction of the city hall took twelve years (1911-1923) and almost all the materials were sourced from Sweden. Nearly eight million bricks were used in the building.

    Stockholm City Hall was inaugurated on the 23rd of June 1923, exactly 400 years after Gustav Vasa’s arrival in Stockholm.

    Architectural Style

    Stockholm City Hall is designed in the National Romantic style and is considered the country’s leading example in the style. Inside, there are various architectural styles, most notably Venetian Gothic architecture, as seen in the turrets, decorated balconies, and statues.

    Interior Highlights

    The most famous room is the Golden Hall. Its name comes from the 18 million tiles, mostly golden, that make up the mosaics around the room. The mosaics tell the story of the history of Sweden, including the Stockholm Bloodbath, Gustav Vasa’s reign, and so on. At the end of the hall is the main attraction – the Queen of Lake Malaren – who is watching over the room carefully. On either side of her are buildings representing the east and the west – including the Hagia Sophia and the Eiffel Tower, amongst other buildings. The mosaics were hugely unpopular when they were completed.

    The mosaics were not well planned; pay attention to the mosaics close to the roof. Sweden’s patron saint Erik has lost his head due to some bad mosaic planning.

    Outside City Hall

    Take the time to explore around the city hall. Wander through the Stadshusparken, a beautiful promenade along the waterfront. You get some excellent views out to Gamla Stan and Riddarholmen from here.

    Be Sure Not to Miss This!

    This was shown to be on one of the guided tours I attended only because there was a fire alarm in the city hall and the guide had to distract us for fifteen minutes while we waited to go in. Normally, it would not be shown on the guided tour. Around the corner from city hall is the cenotaph of Birger Jarl, the man who founded Stockholm. Since the city hall is rich in details that are symbolically linked to Stockholm’s history, of course they had to include a mock grave for Birger Jarl. The style is that of a sarcophagus with Birger in full knight’s armour and his feet directed towards Riddarholmen. Underneath is a fictional burial vault. The idea was that his remains would be transferred from where he is buried, at the monastery church in Varnhem, to the grave, but Varnhem’s city council said no. It is truly a surreal sight.

    Nobel Prize Ceremony

    Why is the Nobel Prize awarded in Sweden? Well, Alfred Nobel was Swedish. When he died in 1896, his will stated that he bequeathed his assets to establish the five prizes that became known as the Nobel Prize.

    The ceremony takes place every 10th of December, which is the anniversary of Nobel’s death. The Prizes are awarded in the Stockholm Concert Hall, and the City Hall is where the banquet and ‘after party’ takes place. The banquet takes place in the Blue Hall, while the Golden Hall is used as the dance floor.

    The Nobel Peace Prize is awarded in Oslo, which will be explained in another article.

    Practical Information

    Finding Stockholm City Hall

    The distinctive city hall sits on the eastern tip of Kungsholmen Island, facing the islands of Riddarholmen and Sodermalm. The location is important and provided inspiration to the building, namely the juxtaposition of city architecture and water that represents a central feature of Stockholm’s cityscape as a hall.

    Getting Here

    Bus number 3 stops right outside the city hall.

    To walk, it takes about 10 minutes from central station or 15 minutes from Riddarholmen Church and Gamla Stan.

    There is no parking available outside the city hall (but you shouldn’t be driving in Stockholm city centre anyway). It can get a little crowded with tour buses out the front.

    Eating

    Several small cafes are around the city hall. Inside the city hall is “Stadshuskallaren” (City Hall Cellar), a Swedish restaurant.

    Restrooms

    Free, inside city hall. Only accessible with the guided tour.

    Acessibility

    There are stairs between the floors, but elevators are also hidden around the city hall and require a staff member to come with you.

    Shop

    The shop features souvenirs that commemorate City Hall & Stockholm.

    Guided Tours

    It is only possible to access Stockholm City Hall on a guided tour. Guided tours in English are held daily, but keep in mind that they can be cancelled at short notice due to events. Also, some parts of the hall are closed on certain days of the year. For example, on Saturdays, one of the rooms is closed because of the weddings that take place.

    The tour lasts around 45 minutes and costs 130 SEK for an adult. All the information about the tours can be found on the city hall website.

    The tower is open from May to September, and you can climb up the tower, getting a fantastic view of the city.

    To know when the guided tours are, visit the city hall’s website: https://cityhall.stockholm/visit-the-city-hall/

    Stockholm Travel Guide
    Sweden Travel Guide
  • Bodø, Lofoten Islands, Practical Tips

    Getting to the Lofoten Islands with the Bodø to Moskenes Ferry

    Getting to the Lofoten Islands with the Bodø to Moskenes Ferry

    Back in 2021 Sean and I did a road-trip around Northern Norway, beginning and ending in Trondheim. When it came time to plan the section for the Lofoten Islands, I knew I wanted to take the ferry. I’d heard about the Bodø to Moskenes Ferry and decided to do that ferry.

    It was such a beautiful journey! Originally I was apprehensive to take ferries in Norway because I feel they slow down the road-trip and I struggled figuring out how they work. This road-trip was great for me because we were taking 2-3 ferries a day, so now I feel like I’m an expect on ferries.

    Earlier this year I got to fly into the Lofoten Islands for the first time, and while the flight from Bodø to Svolvær is short (20 minutes!) I still can’t get behind flying there. So, I’ve written this overview of how the ferry works to try and encourage you to do the same!

    In this article...

    BodØ Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Flying is Expensive

    Well, I should begin by saying all options to the Lofoten Islands are expensive, including the ferry. However, flying is the most expensive option. While there are airports at Svolvær and Leknes, they are operated by the regional airline Widerøe and have few departures. The small planes plus few departures drives the price up. Also, if the wind is too strong the planes can’t fly at all.

    This makes Bodø an excellent alternative. Bodø is a major airport with Widerøe, SAS and Norwegian all flying there. Bodø has direct connections to Oslo, Bergen, Trondheim, Tromsø and other cities, so it’s easy to get to. At the airport you’ll find all the major rental companies for cars.

    Why Should I Go to Moskenes?

    If you are road-tripping in Lofoten, it’s likely that you’ll be doing the Lofoten Tourist Road. This is one of the 18 national tourist roads in Norway, and arguably the most scenic.

    The tourist road begins at the southern tip in Å and ends in the north in the Vesterålen region.

    Moskenes is located about a 10 minute drive north of Å, so if you take the ferry to Moskenes, you arrive practically at the beginning of the tourist road. This makes it easy to then take the tourist road north. You can choose to spend the night in Å, or if you drive 10 minutes north of Moskenes you’ll be in one of the most famous villages in Lofoten: Reine.

    Our road-trip guides:

    Compared to flying, you’ll have to drive about two hours south from Svolvær to get to Reine or Å, and then drive back on the same road. It gets a little repetitive, and your time is best spent doing the trip one way.

    Are there other ferries?

    There is one other car ferry that will take you to the Lofoten Islands, and that is the Hurtigruten. The Hurtigruten departs Bodø at 3:10pm and arrives in Stamsund around 7pm. Stamsund is located midway between Moskenes and Svolvaer.

    Hurtigruten can be an expensive alternative, and if you are travelling in the high season (or middle of winter) it’s likely that their limited car spaces will be full.

    What if I'm travelling without a vehicle?

    If you don’t have a vehicle, it is possible to take an express ferry from Bodø to Svolvær. Svolvær is the largest town in the Lofoten Islands so it has the best public transport connections. From here, you’ll be able to take a bus to most other major villages in the islands.

    Moskenes

    Views along the way

    The ferry isn’t especially fast, but the journey is very scenic. We were fortunate to take the ferry on a clear and calm day, so for the first half of the journey were could see the Norwegian mainland. As you leave Bodø, you get an excellent view of the Bodø skyline and the mountains behind it.

    You can start seeing the Lofoten Islands about halfway into the journey. It was so clear for us that we could see where the Lofoten Islands and the mainland meet!

    The approach into Lofoten is spectacular, of course.

    The Onboard Experience

    The ferry is a little dated and basic (the company has recently announced they have signed the contract for new ferries to be built), but it has everything you need for the journey.

    There is a large seating area with chairs and tables as well as a cafeteria serving coffee, sandwiches, hot dogs, and snacks. If you have been on a Norwegian ferry before, it’s very much the same time of food.

    A highlight of the ferry is that you have a lot of open space to walk around. On the smaller express ferries, you often can’t go outside at all. We spent a lot of our time outside taking pictures.

    Moskenes

    Ferry Timetable

    The ferry timetable can be found on their website: http://ruteinfo.thn.no/en/default.aspx?rnr=86

    Booking Tickets

    I strongly recommend booking your ferry ticket in advance. In 2019, the ferry made headlines for selling out and for people being unable to get on board. In summer it is likely the ferry will sell out. It is possible to also buy tickets at the ferry, but you can’t be guaranteed that the ferry hasn’t sold out. Additionally, those who have prepaid board the ferry first, which means you’ll be able to leave first.

    You can book tickets on the Torghatten-Nord website: https://www.torghatten-nord.no/

    On the top left side, you’ll see an option to change the language to English.

    There is an option to search for ticket prices. Put that in and add a car + passenger. You’ll have to select the size of your vehicle plus how many passengers you have. After that, you’ll be able to choose a time.

    The website will ask for a registration plate for the car, but if you are renting a car just write ‘rental car’.

    As you’ll see, the tickets are quite expensive! 950 NOK – 1250 NOK. However, it can cost over 2000 NOK to fly into Svolvær, and when I tried looking for prices on Hurtigruten nothing was available. So, it seems like it is the cheapest option of them all.

    You might be saying “well, I can just drive to the bottom and then drive back up”, but remember fuel in Norway is quite expensive and you would pay about 900 NOK just to drive from the top of Lofoten to the bottom anyway.

    How long does the ferry take?

    The ferry journey takes around three and a half hours. You’ll notice there are different durations corresponding to different departures on the website. Thisis because sometimes the ferry makes some stops along the way, especially to the small islands of Røst and Værøy. Ideally, you’d like to leave early in the day so you have extra time to explore Lofoten.

    Røst & Værøy

    These are two small little isolated islands off the coast of Lofoten. While it is possible to fly to them, it would be such an amazing experience to take the ferry there as well. You can add them to your Lofoten road-trip. I have never been, but am hoping to get there some day.

    Recently the government passed a new law making some vital ferry services free, and this includes the ferry to Røst & Værøy. So now you can travel there for free!

    Tell Me What You Think!

    If you have taken the ferry, or have any questions, please use the comment section below.

    BodØ Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide
  • Norway, Oslo, Walking Guides

    Oslo City Centre: Self-Guided Walking Tour

    Oslo City Centre: Self-Guided Walking Tour

    Oslo is the perfect city for walking. The city is compact; it’s easy to get from one side to the other in less than half an hour. I find Oslo one of the most interesting cities in Norway to wander. 

    When I hear people talk about Oslo, they often mention that it’s a lot more modern than they’d expect. That’s certainly true; it doesn’t have the historic wooden buildings you find in Bergen or Trondheim, and neither does it have the beautifully decorated buildings you find in Stockholm and Copenhagen. Maybe that’s why many choose to skip extensively exploring Oslo. Most just go to the museums and then leave.

    I think there’s a lot to be discovered in Oslo by walking. In my previous self-guided walk for Oslo, which focused on the old town Christiania, I found so many hidden treasures of the old city.

    This walk, however, is definitely the beaten path. Focusing primarily on Karl Johans Gate, the main pedestrian street, you’ll feel the crowds and tourists here. However, rather than focus on shops and eateries, here I’ve tried to pull out and find the historic buildings that can be found in this part of the city.

    Here’s my self-guided walk for Oslo city centre. 

    In this article...

    Oslo Travel Guide

    You can find a detailed overview of Oslo, including practical, historic and travel information on our dedicated travel guide page. 

    Oslo Travel Guide

    Downloadable Version of This Guide

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided walks on our online store. 

    View at the Store

    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Information about facilities along the way

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the region & towns
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Facilities including supermarkets, toilets, petrol, hotels, cafes, restaurants with addresses.

    Start: Oslo Opera House

    This walk begins outside one of the most famous buildings in Oslo: the opera house. The Oslo Opera House opened in 2008 and quickly won awards for its architectural beauty. The building is covered in white granite and white Italian marble, while the interior is primarily in oak to bring warmth to the space.

    The building is designed so you can walk up the roof.

    It is possible to take a guided tour inside the opera house, and I highly recommend it.

    Behind the opera house you’ll see the new Munch Museum peaking out. 

    Deichman Library

    This is Oslo’s brand-new library: it opened in October 2020. The library brand, Deichman, is actually the oldest public library in Norway. The name comes from businessman and collector Carl Deichman, who gave his private collection of books for public use in Oslo. The first Deichman library opened in 1785.

    The decision to build a new library building came in 2001, but it took some time to find the location and decide on the building style. The old Deichman building is close to where the 2011 terrorist attack happened. 

    Oslo Central Station

    We are now at Oslo Central Station. The station is built on the site of the older Oslo East Station. In total, there are 19 tracks with connections to all over Norway as well as Sweden.

    The first railway in Norway was the Hovedbanen between Oslo and Eidsvoll. A temporary station was built in Oslo while pans were made to design a better building. The population in Oslo was growing quick (it doubled to 150,000 between 1875 and 1890), so a large building was needed. The older part of the station that you see is part of this expansion and is the old Oslo East Station. Today the older part of the building is called Østbanehallen (East Railway Hall) and is a food hall and shopping mall.

    Palehaven

    The name of this square you see in front of the station is Palehaven or ‘Christian Frederiks Plass’. This name connects to the older city of Oslo, Christiania (covered on a separate walking tour). Christian Frederik was the Danish-Norwegian crown prince who attempted to become the independent King of Norway after the end of the Danish Union in 1814. However, Norway was promised to Sweden, so the country became part of the Swedish Union instead.

    The garden originally belonged to the Palace, the country’s first royal residence in recent times, and Christian Frederick was the first king to live here. The garden was laid out in the 18th century and the old Palace building was completed in 1848. The garden was known for its large collection of crops, but very little of it remains today. Few pictures of it exist.

    You can view old photos of it here: https://no.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pal%C3%A9et

    The Tiger Statue

    The Tiger of Oslo is a famous monument outside the Central Station. In the 19th century Oslo earned the nickname ‘The Tiger City’ from a poem called Sidste Sang by Bjørnstjerne Bjørnson, which describes a fight between a horse and a tiger. The horse represented the safe countryside, while the tiger represents the dangerous city. For many Norwegians travelling into the capital from the country, Oslo must’ve felt like a loud, strong, and potentially dangerous place!

    The statue was gifted to Oslo for their 1000-year anniversary in 2000.

    Behind Central Station (not visible from here) is the high immigrant neighbourhood called Grønland. It has lots of great restaurants with cuisines from all over the world. However, Grønland has also been the subject of debate due to its almost ghetto-like status. The existence of Grønland divides public opinion; some love the diversity, while others don’t like how crime-ridden it has become.

    Amerikalinjen Building

    The building you see here is the old Norwegian America Line Headquarters. This was a Norwegian liner company founded in 1910 to operate ships between Norway and the USA. The company was established to assist in the mass emigration to the United States, operating between Norway and New York. Eventually the company also had ships going from Norway to Canada. After World War II, the company was primarily involved in cruise traffic but was eventually sold off into other companies and no longer exists today.

    The building has been transformed into a high-end boutique hotel called Amerikalinjen.

    Karl Johans Gate

    Karl Johan gate is the main boulevard that links Central Station with the Royal Palace. It is named after the French General Jean-Baptiste Bernadotte, who took the Swedish name Karl Johan during the Napoleonic Wars. He became the Crown Prince of Sweden in 1810 and then was the King of Sweden and Norway between 1818 and 1848. 

    The street is a combination of several older streets.

    The eastern section, where we are now, was part of the old city of Christiania, while the wider western section was built during the 1840s as an avenue connecting the Royal Palace to the rest of the city.

    Most of the buildings on this end of the street are from the late 19th century.

    The street today is a little touristy, but there are some historic places along the street.

    As you enter Karl Johans Gate, one of the first shops you see to your right is Helly Hansen, the famous Norwegian outdoor wear brand.

    The Bazaars

    The Baazars were built in 1840-1859 in a neo-Romantic style. Before the bazaars were constructed, this is where the butchers would have their stalls. However, in the mid-19th century there was increasing demand to improve the hygiene conditions of the area. So it was decided to build 24 brick stalls. It was later expanded. At the beginning of the 20th century, there was a plan put forward to tear down the bazaars and build the Oslo Stock Exchange here. Eventually the plans were rejected, but this sparked one of the city’s earliest debates about demolition or preservation.

    Today you’ll find lots of restaurants and cafes in the bazaars. There are still some markets here.

    Oslo Fire Station

    The old Oslo fire station was built in the 1850s in a neo-Romanesque style and was planned to fit into the bazaars. It was the city’s first fire station; yes, it took that long to get a permanent fire station! The tower was used for drying hoses and also operated as a fire watch tower. However, it was too low so they used the Cathedral tower instead. The station was manned 24 hours a day until 1902, and Oslo’s main fire station was completed in 1939, making this one obsolete.

    Oslo Cathedral

    Oslo Cathedral is the main church for Oslo. It was built in 1697 (but rebuilt between 1848 and 1850) after the second church (in Christiania) burnt down. The cathedral is used by the Norwegian royal family and the Norwegian government for public events.

    Be sure to look on the corner of the church. Here you’ll see a stone from Oslo’s first cathedral; over 1000 years old. Unfortunately the cathedral no longer stands, but its ruins can be seen at Gamle Oslo (self-guided walk coming soon). If you look further up the tower, you’ll see small square windows. This is where the fire brigade had their watch.

    The stained glass windows in the choir are by Emanuel Vigeland (brother to famous sculptor Gustav Vigeland).

    Outside the cathedral is a memorial for the victims of the 2011 terrorist attack. 

    The cathedral is open during the day and is free to visit. 

    Stortorvet

    In the 17th century, when Oslo’s city wall was located here, this big square was where the farmers entered and sold their goods. Stortorvet was officially inaugurated in 1736 and was the main town market until 1869.

    Across the street is the restaurant Stortorvets Gjestgiveri. The building is from the 18th century and used to be an inn where travellers would rest before entering the city of Christiania. The street in front is called Grensen, which means ‘the border’. It’s where the old city wall used to be.

    Today it’s famous as a flower and produce market.

    The statue is of the Danish-Norwegian King Christian IV, who ruled Norway around 1600. He named the city after himself: Christiania.

    Egertorget

    This marks the point where the old and new sections of Karl Johans gate meet; you will notice there’s an almost bend in the road. Egertorget grew in the mid-19th century as a residential area after the two streets were connected.

    Here you’ll see the large Freia neon sign from 1911. This is Norway’s chocolate brand. Norwegians link of Freia as a ‘little piece of Norway’. There is a Freia shop along Karl Johans gate.

    Norwegian Parliament

    Norway’s Parliament building is from 1866 and almost seems to counter the Royal Palace at the other end of Karl Johans gate. If the flag is flying, parliament is in session. Today the king is a figurehead, and Norway is run by a unicameral parliament and prime minister.

    The name of the Parliament in Norwegian is Stortinget, an Old Norse word.

    It’s possible to take a guided tour of the parliament

    Grand Hotel & Cafe

    On the other side of Karl Johans Gate is the Grand Hotel, where the Nobel Peace Prize winner stays every year. Grand Hotel was established in 1874, but has undergone several renovations since then. The current appearance is from around 1915. 

    You can view old photos of Grand Hotel here. 

    Grand Café is an equally historic café and for many years this is where Oslo’s intellectual and creative elite would meet, perhaps most famously Henrik Ibsen. Inside the café is a mural showing all the regulars of Grand Café.

    Eidsvolls Plass

    The large park in front of the Parliament is called Eidsvolls Plass. ‘Eidsvoll’ refers to the town north of Oslo where the Constitution was written in 1814.

    The western part is nicknamed Spikersuppa by the locals after Christiania Spigerverk paid for a refurbishment in 1956. The area was originally a marsh area until the 1840s, when it was laid out in connection with the establishment of Karl Johans gate.

    On this stretch of Karl Johans gate you’ll see several beautiful buildings. These were built up in the mid-19th century as a place for the wealthy to live. Today they have been joined together and are a shopping mall.

    There are statues of many important Norwegians in the park, including Christian Frederik (the Danish crown prince who tried to be Norwegian King), Johan Sverdrup and Carl Joachim Hambro.

    Every Christmas they close the park and turn it into a Christmas Market.

    Close to the parliament you’ll see three public toilets painted to look like the French flag. This is a work of art called Liberte. On the roof are the slogans from the French Revolution: Liberty, Equality and Brotherhood. Inside the toilets, speakers play audio recordings of Franklin Roosevelt, Charles de Gaulle, and King Haakon VII.

    University of Oslo

    The University of Oslo is the first university building in Norway, dating from 1854.

    The paving of the square dates from 1931. The cobblestone pattern is characterised by neoclassicism, just like the University buildings. 

    During World War II, the square was used for parades and propaganda events by the Nazis.

    In the square is a statue of Professor Anton Martin Schweigaard, a lawyer, economist and politician who was a professor at the University for almost 30 years. He was elected to the Storting for almost 30 years and is described as one of the most important political and intellectual figures in Norway during the 19th century.

    Royal Palace

    Straight ahead we can see the Royal Palace. This Neoclassical building was completed in 1849 and is the residence of the Norwegian Royal Family. It is possible to visit inside with a guided tour.

    National Theatre

    The earliest theatre in Oslo is the Christiania Theatre, which was founded in 1829. However, the theatre we see today had its first performance in 1899. The theatre was a private institution until 1929, when the government started providing it with financial support.

    The theatre is often considered the home for the plays of Henrik Ibsen.

    Statues of Norway’s most famous playwrights – Ibsen and Bjørnsen – are outside the theatre.

    Underneath the theatre is one of the major train stations in Oslo: The National Theatre station. From here you can take the train or metro all over the city, and the buses from here go to Bygdøy.

    Oslo City Hall

    Construction for Oslo City Hall began in the 1930s. At the time, the dark brick was considered very on trend. However, the city hall construction was delayed during World War II, and by the time the city hall opened int he 1950s, it was considered a little old-fashioned. Today, the appearance of the building does divide opinion. Some say it looks like a block of brown cheese!

    Inside the city hall is a completely different feel. Leading artists designed different rooms, including Edvard Munch, and I highly recommend taking the time to walk around inside (free to do). 

    If you circle the inner part of the city hall (outside), you’ll seen wooden motifs representing the Old Norse sagas. Descriptions explain their meaning in English. 

    The city hall is where the Nobel Peace Prize is awarded every year. 

    Oslo Harbour

    The Oslo Harbour is a new development that forms part of the ‘Fjord City’ urban renewal project. Before this, it was a busy highway.

    Facing the water, if you look to the right you’ll see the Nobel Peace Centre and the National Museum. The waterfront buildings form Aker Brygge, an area with very hip bars and restaurants. At the end of Tjuvholmen, an art district with some of the most expensive apartments in Oslo. 

    To the left, you’ll see Akershus Fortress. 

    End of the Walk

    If you want to continue your walk, Turn left and follow the main road. You’ll end up at Christiania Square, where you can begin our Christiania walking tour. Or you can visit Akershus Fortress and do our Akershus walking tour. 

    Oslo Travel Guide

    You can find a detailed overview of Oslo, including practical, historic and travel information on our dedicated travel guide page. 

    Oslo Travel Guide
  • Hardangerfjord, Norway, Odda, Ulvik, Utne

    Add Utne to Your Hardanger Road-Trip

    Add Utne to Your Hardanger Road-Trip

    Back in June of 2022 I got the last-minute opportunity to lead a group to Utne in Hardanger. I’ve been to Hardanger many, many times (my husbands family is from Ulvik), but I’d never made the time to take the ferry across to Utne. So, of course, I took the job and off I went with a group of Americans. Boy, was I surprised.

    I had read about Utne and knew it was picturesque and charming, but I was surprised by just how lovely it was. We took the ferry across from Kinsarvik and then walked to the Hardanger Folk Museum. After having a guided tour through some of the outdoor buildings, we had lunch and free time to explore before we took the ferry back to Kinsarvik.

    You don’t need a guide to do Utne, and you can definitely overnight there. Utne doesn’t get the big tour buses and masses of caravans that other places in Hardanger get, so it almost feels like a well-kept secret being there. The village is very popular with Norwegians, though.

    Utne in Hardanger
    Looking out at Utne from the Folk Museum

    Utne is easily one of the most picturesque villages that you’ll find in Hardanger. Unlike many other towns that have succumbed to modernisation and development, Utne has preserved its old streets and wooden houses. It also has some of the most spectacular views out to the Hardangerfjord.

    I’ve put together an overview of the highlights of Utne so you can be convinced to add it to your Hardanger road-trip!

    In this article...

    Eidfjord Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    First off, how do you get there?

    Utne is easily accessible by ferry or road (though it does look very isolated on a map!). There is a ferry route linking Utne to both sides of the fjord. One ferry goes from Kinsarvik to Utne, while the other goes from Kvanndal to Utne.

    It is possible to drive to Utne via Odda or Jondal, but the roads are narrow and the drive is time consuming. If you can, take a ferry.

    Tip – I would strongly recommend leaving your car at the ferry pier and taking the ferry over as just a person. It’s free for people to take the ferry without a car, and Utne is so walkable you don’t need a car.

    Utne's History

    Being a small village of 146 people, there’s no extensive records of Utne’s history. However, people have lived here for hundreds of years and they relied heavily on the fruit production that came to Hardanger in the 13th century. Utne is regarded as one of the best places to grow fruits, so the villagers relied on production every year to support themselves.

    These days Utne is less about fruit production and more about tourism, but fruit production is still extremely important to the area.

    Utne Hotel

    The first building you’ll see off the ferry is the Utne Hotel. The Utne Hotel is the oldest hotel in continuous operation in Norway, founded in 1722. Part of the hotel is from the 18th century, but a large part has been expanded and added on to. The largest development was in the late 19th century, when the hotel got its characteristic Swiss style of architecture. The last extension was in the 1930s.

    What’s fascinating is that the hotel has historically been managed by strong women. One of the old hostesses has earned the nickname ‘Mother Utne’ and she ran the hotel for 70s. She was apparently known all over Europe for her hospitality. There’s a silver wreath in the restaurant dedicated to her.

    There are only 17 rooms in the hotel, and each one is unique. It makes it feel extra special and exclusive, but this is also reflected in the price. Rooms go for about 5000 NOK a night.

    You can also visit the hotels restaurant and have a meal or take part in their cider tasting.

    If you want to stay somewhere a little more budget friendly, try the Hardanger Gjestegård. This historic guesthouse dates from 1898 and feels like a museum inside with its wooden panels and old furniture. It’s located about 10km out of Utne.

    You can visit their website here.

    Utne Church

    The white wooden church just above the hotel is not a historic church; it was built in the late 19th century after the locals wanted to stop taking the boat across to Kinsarvik Church. They had to raise the money to build the church themselves, so it did take some time. The church seats about 300 people. It’s just a few minutes walk from the ferry pier.

    Hardanger Folk Museum

    The Hardanger Folk Museum is one of the true delights of visiting Utne. The museum is a little hilly, but it’s well worth the climb.

    Reconstructed farm

    The museum was founded in 1911 and features a reconstruction of a traditional cluster farm. The oldest building is a medieval log house with a central open fire. The museum also has shops, businesses and mini factories from all over Hardanger.

    You can visit their website here.

    Birch roofing

    Preserved painting inside one of the farm houses

    Old beer bowl

    Down by the water are some well-preserved boathouses with traditional Hardanger boats.

    Hardanger fiddles on display

    Meanwhile, the indoor exhibitions focus on Hardanger folk costumes and folk music, in particular the Hardanger fiddle.

    Hardanger bunads

    Hardanger embroidery

    Inside you’ll also find a lovely cafe. A special treat about the museum is that they produce their own cider and juice, which is only available from the museum. This also brings me to the next reason to come here…

    Apple trees can be seen everywhere!

    Incredible Hardanger Fruits

    Utne is perfectly situated if you want to try the fruits grown in the Hardanger region. 1km from Utne is Norway’s largest fruit warehouse where plums, apples, pears and other fruits are sorted and packed. The region is also famous for its cider production, and you can buy cider from most farms.

    Utne is actually considered one of the best places in Hardanger for fresh fruit, and for many years the village relied on its fruit production.

    I am a huge fan of apples from Hardanger, and can never turn down the locally made apple juice. The ciders can be quite sweet, but they are also delicious.

    Hike it off!

    Utne is surrounded by short and long hikes. Close to the ferry pier you’ll find a map of all the hikes in the area.

    Eidfjord Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide
  • Harstad, Norway, Walking Guides

    A Heritage Walk through Harstad’s Historic Town Centre

    A Heritage Walk through Harstad’s Historic Town Centre

    Harstad is a large city in the far north of Norway. While it’s not as historic as its neigbhours Bodo and Tromso, the town has some charming historic buildings from the mid-19th century heyday of shipping. There are lots of terrible post-war buildings, too. So I wrote this guide to show you the highlights of Harstad.

    When I visited Harstad in June 2021 to plan this walk, I was surprised by how empty the town was. There are many shopping malls around the town today, so the inner town centre is in decline. Harstad isn’t exactly a place where people come to walk around; it seems to be more of a stopover on the way to popular natural attractions. But that’s why I wanted to try and figure out if there was any history in Harstad, and if so, where was it?

    Large parts of the historic buildings have been destroyed by fire or war, but there are some true historic gems to be found in Harstad.

    A huge help for this guide was LokalHistorieWiki, a Norwegian Wiki page where history enthusiasts can upload information about their town, broken down by street and house number. The group in Harstad is a very enthusiastic one, and there is a wealth of information and photographs there! The site is only in Norwegian, but I’ve included some links so you can look at the old photos.

    Here is a guide to the historic buildings in Harstad town centre.

    In this article...

    Norway's Coastal Ferry

    Kirkenes is a port of call of Norway’s coastal ferry. Find my guide for the coastal ferry by clicking the link below. 

    Norway's Coastal Ferry
    Harstad Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Harstadhamn

    Located just north of the city today is Harstadhamn, a small cove that served as the basis for the foundation of Harstad.

    Harstad wasn’t the original settlement in the area. Ever since the Viking Age there has been a settlement in the area around Trondenes Church, today a 10 minute drive from Harstad town centre. It was an important political centre in the Viking Age and was the main town for hundreds of years.

    Harstad began to overtake Trondenes in importance after Bergen’s monopoly on trade declined and traffic increased along the northern coast. Harstad had a better natural harbour than Trondenes, so gradually the town moved.

    The first settlement took place around Harstadhamn. The small cove was perfect for the smaller ships and here the sea-related business flourished as skilled and forward-looking people moved to the area.

    Havnegata

    Havnegata is where all the industry around Harstadhamn developed. Many large factory buildings used to be here; today pretty much all of them are gone.

    You can see more of the buildings if you walk down Havnegata, but the nicer walk is to head to the pier and follow the promenade towards the city.

    You can find some old photographs and maps at LokalHistorieWiki (click here).

    Harstad Library and Culture House

    Library operations have been in Harstad since 1848. The current library is incorporated into Haarstad’s Cultural Centre. The culture house was built in 1992 and is the city’s main venue with 1,000 seats.

    Havnegata 5B

    Next to the Culture House is a building that has kept its old factory appearance. This building is from 1916, when it was a factory for the Midnight Sun Preserving Company. Today the building is part of the University and works as a student hostel. Not a bad place for students to stay!

    Havnegata 9

    HarstadNumber 9 is arguably the most beautiful house on the street. It was built for the Store Norske Spitsbergen Kulkompani in 1919 and is now for the student union.

    Havnegata 23B - Gammelbrygga

    Here we find another old warehouse. This one is a well-known landmark that has been threatened with demolition for the past 10 years. A support group, Gammelbrygg’s Friends, has been established to research the pier and work to protect it.

    There’s still some disagreement about when it was built and what it was used for, but it is nice to see in the city.

    You can see some old photos of the pier at LokalHistorieWiki (click here).

    Harstadsjøen

    Looking out towards Harstadsjoen

    Harstadsjøen is the name for the old settlement of Harstad. As steamships began to overtake sailing ships, Harstadsjøen was a better spot for them to dock. The first merchant houses were developed along Strandgata because of its close proximity to Harstadsjøen, and many of them had harbour access.

    The yellow building is the Swedish Port Authority’s expedition building from 1913. It has architectural style in both Neo-Baroque and Art Nouveau, and the building housed many consulates for around Europe as well as many representatives from the Norwegian shipping companies.

    Strandgata

    Strandgata (Beach Street) is the street where many of Harstad’s most distinctive buildings stand. It is also mostly a pedestrianised street with lots of the local buisnesses.

    This street is fascinating because it really tells Harstad’s history. People came from all over Norway to try and establish a successful business in Harstad after the boom in shipping and trade. Most of the businesses along the street were established by out-of-towners coming here to try their luck.

    Here are some of the older houses along Strandgata.

    Strandgata 19

    Strandgata 19 is a bit of a detour away from the direction we are going, but it is worth it.

    This house was built by pharmacist Harald Dahl in 1894 in the Swiss style of architecture. The pharmacy operated here for 56 years. The Swiss architecture is some of the most beautiful in Harstad.

    Strandgata 12

    Strandgata 12 opened as a bookstore in 1902 by a woman called Mathilde Bakke, and since then it has been a car workshop and a children’s clothing store, amongst other things.

    Strandgata 10

    This is one of the older houses in Harstad; built in 1896. It was owned by a woman called Hilda Oldenborg, who ran a business in embroideries, yarn and a colonial that sold coffee. ‘Colonial’ was the name of a grocery store with imports from overseas (i.e. the ‘colonies’).

    Strandgata 8

    Number 8 is another early 20th century wooden building. It was owned by Elias Hoel, a pioneer in the town who came to own many of Harstad’s buildings. The locals recognise it as the Harstad Bookshop, which operated from 1925 until 2001 in the building.

    Strandgata 6

    This house was built by the merchant Peder Thorbergsen, who received a deed to the plot of land in 1894. The building used to have a dock out the back.

    Strandgata 4

    Strandgata 4 was built in 1891, though it was damaged by fire in 1913. When it was brick, the art nouveau style was used instead. The house operated as a smokehouse and warehouse.

    Strandgata 2

    The other brick building is number 2. It was for Gunder Erikens, a watchmaker who came to Harstad in 1902 and built a wooden house. The house had a wharf out the back; the house practically stood on the edge of the beach. On the street level was the goldware, watch and optics shop, and there was an apartment on the upper level.

    The property was damaged by fire because some boys anted to make their own New Years Fireworks, which led to an explosion.

    Rikard Kaarbø's Plass

    Rikard Kaarbø is the man who is considered to be the founder of Harstad. He was the initiator and contributor to a number of businesses in Harstad that contibuted to Harstad getting city status in 1904. Amongst other things, he established the first newspaper in Harstad. Rikard Kaarbø also worked with many of the steamship companies.

    Rikard Kaarbø's Plass 2

    This is the most striking building in Harstad. It is beautiful detailing in Art Nouveau and Neo-Gothic. It’s funny to think that the building was built for the Harstad Beer and Wine Association in 1906, but the bank took it over in 1917!

    In 2010, this building was voted ‘most beautiful’ by the Harstad locals.

    Rikard Kaarbø's Plass 4

    Number four is where businessman Elias Hoel lived from 1903.

    The square gained prominence in the 1920s and 1930s but not for good reasons. With high unemployment and poverty grappling Harstad, it was where the men who had nothing else to do gathered.

    Rikard Kaarbøs Gate

    This street has some well-preserved wooden buildings. Businessman Elias Hoel was the one who regulated the street and he owned most of the plots on the street. This was also Harstad’s first car-free street.

    The street passes through the square, so some of the buildings are close to number 2 (the beautiful brick building)

    Rikard Kaarbø's Gate 14

    This building is located across the street from the beautiful brick building. It’s worth checking out because it is Harstad’s oldest wooden building; built in 1870.

    Rikard Kaarbø's Gate 10

    Number 10 was built by master baker John Sumstad in 1913 and it was a bakery for around 20 years before being converted into a hotel called Hotel Royal.

    Rikard Kaarbø's Gate 8

    This building is from the 1880s and was used by Rikard Kaarbø as a post office.

    Rikard Kaarbøs Gate 6

    Number 6 was built by Elias Hotel in the 1890s and was operated as a hotel and restaurant called Britannia.

    Torvet

    Torvet is likely the oldest square in Harstad. Sadly most of the original buildings are gone but you can see them in photos.

    You can view photos of Torvet at LokalHistorieWiki (click here).

    Torvet 7

    This is the most interesting building on Torvet. It was built around 1900 and was known as Holmgården. The wooden building still stands, but a shopping mall has been built around it.

    Norway's Coastal Ferry

    Harstad is a port of call of Norway’s coastal ferry. Find my guide for the coastal ferry by clicking the link below. 

    Norway's Coastal Ferry
    Harstad Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    End of the walk!

    We end our walk down by Torvet 7. This is by the water and also very close to where the Hurtigruten docks in the morning.

    I hope you enjoyed this heritage walk through Harstad. The goal was to show there’s more to Harstad than meets the eye, and that the historic buildings can still be found in the city.

    Travelling to Harstad on Hurtigruten?

    You probably have enough time to make it to Rikard Kaarbøs plass and back, now that you know the historic centre of Harstad is just a stones throw away.

  • Central Norway, Mo i Rana, Mosjoen

    Why You Should Visit Mosjøen on Your Norwegian Road-trip

    Why You Should Visit Mosjøen on Your Norwegian Road-trip

    During our Norwegian Coastal Road-trip of 2021, I decided on a whim that we should stop in Mosjøen on the long drive between Mo i Rana and Trondheim. I’d heard of the town before and that it was quite beautiful. However, I was totally blown away by how charming and picturesque the town was.

    In this guide, I’ve highlighted the best bits of Mosjøen. The town is perfect for an overnight stop on a road-trip, and there’s plenty in town to keep you busy.

    I think Mosjøen is one of Norway’s best-kept secrets, and after visiting I think you’ll also understand why!

    In this article...

    The E6 Highway

    Mosjoen is located on the E6, Norway’s main highway. You can find my guide to the E6 by clicking the link below. 

    The E6 Highway
    MoSjØen Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    History of Mosjøen

    Mosjøen is actually the oldest town in the traditional region of Helgeland, so the city is worth visiting if you are interested in historic places.

    The first mention of Mosjøen was in the 15th century, when it was mentioned in a land register. The area around Mosjøen was owned by the archdiocese of Nidaros in Trondheim until the Reformation. After the Reformation in 1537, all church property was transferred to the King. Mosjøen was owned by the Danish King until 1666, when King Frederik II transferred all public property to a man called Joachim Irgens, who was a Danish official and chamberlain to King Frederik III. This was the largest real estate transaction and privatisation in the Nordics ever. After Irgens died, the estate was broken up into several smaller ones.

    In the 18th century, Mosjøen had several merchants living here. They travelled to Bergen to sell their goods until 1794, when the merchant Erik Jorgen Sjursson was given the right to open a trading business and a guesthouse.

    Trade Growth & Market Rights

    In the 19th century, Mosjøen grew to become a small urban community that centered around trade. Those who did not have land to cultivate became artisans or day labourers, and Mosjøen became known for its many shoemakers, blacksmiths, and other craftsmen. Many took part in the Lofoten fishing season and Mosjøen was a meeting place between the Swedes, fishermen, farmers, and Sami.

    The First Industrial Wave

    Mosjøen’s development took an abrupt turn in 1856, when English immigrants founded the English Mill (Engelskbruket). The possibility of building sawmills led to many people settling in Mosjøen to try and make it big in the timber industry.

    The town was transformed into a modern trade and official town. The urban business life developed in the form of book shops, fashion shops, and eateries. By the end of the 19th century, Mosjøen had magazine publishers, pharmacists, photographers, hat makers and tons of eateries.

    The timber industry was not all positive. The forests surrounding Mosjøen were clearly marked by logging and the destruction of the environment. Because of the extensive logging, several farmers were forced to give up their farms and move.

    The timber industry slowed down in Mosjøen around the year 1899.

    World War II

    Mosjøen was captured by the Nazis on the 11th of May 1940. The Nazis used Mosjøen to transport people and goods for warfare to the far north. Several facilities including a Nazi headquarters and military camp were established in the town. During the evacuation of Finnmark in 1944, many evacuees came to Mosjøen.

    Thankfully, Mosjøen is one of the few towns in Northern Norway that was not extensively bombed.

    Second Industrial Period

    After the war, a new kind of industry came to Mosjøen. An aluminium plant opened in 1958 and is by far the largest industrial establishment in the city.

    As you drive into Mosjøen, you may wonder why I recommend it as a place to visit. The outskirts of the town have a very rough, industrial feel. But trust me and head into the city!

    Mosjøen Today

    Today the population of Mosjøen is around 9,812. Along with Narvik and Mo i Rana, Mosjøen is one of the industrial towns of the county Nordland. Mosjøen Aluminiumsverk is amongst the largest aluminium companies in Europe.

    Mosjøen is located in the middle of Sandnessjoen, Mo i Rana and Bronnoysund. It is about halfway between Trondheim and Bodo and is located on the Nordlandsbanen train.

    Sjøgata is one of the most charming streets in Northern Norway

    Sjøgata is the main street of historic Mosjøen. After the establishment of the English sawmill in 1866, Mosjøen turned into a meeting place for the English timber barons, forestry workers, Sami lumberjacks and Swedish mountain farmers who came down to barter, and tailors selling the latest styles from London or Paris.

    Post-war decline

    After World War II, Sjøgata was a street not many went to. It was left run-down and in decline, and many saw it as a disgrace to the town. Living on Sjøgata became synonymous with poverty. The eagerness to tear down Sjøgata was so strong that a slogan “tear everything down” became common in the 1970s. You can’t blame them, though. The post-war years created a huge boom in the population and a need for parking spaces in the city, and Sjøgata was prime real estate.

    Mosjøen

    Restoration

    Thankfully, a few very passionate locals were able to campaign to protect Mosjøen. Even the then Crown Princess Sonja got involved in saving the street.

    The association Lydiabryggas Venner contributed to the building not being demolished and then supported the restoration of all the buildings.

    Today the project is considered a success and Sjøgata is the main reason many people come to Mosjøen. Sjøgata has Northern Norway’s longest continuous settlement of wooden houses and piers from the 19th century. Most of the buildings today are heritage listed and an emphasis has been put on preserving the old building techniques, details and colours.

    Wandering Down Sjøgata

    Thankfully, a few very passionate locals were able to campaign to protect Mosjøen. Even the then Crown Princess Sonja got involved in saving the street.

    The association Lydiabryggas Venner contributed to the building not being demolished and then supported the restoration of all the buildings.

    Today the project is considered a success and Sjøgata is the main reason many people come to Mosjøen. Sjøgata has Northern Norway’s longest continuous settlement of wooden houses and piers from the 19th century. Most of the buildings today are heritage listed and an emphasis has been put on preserving the old building techniques, details and colours.

    Sjøgata

    As you wander down Sjøgata, you’ll be spoiled for choice for the best photograph. Many of these houses are still private residences, so do be respectful of that. However, do take the time to visit some of the local boutiques.

    If you are interested in the history of the buildings, each building has a small sign in Norwegian explaining the history. At the tourist office you can pick up a booklet called The History of a Town that will provide you with an English translation.

    Mosjøen is Home to Northern Norway's Oldest Hotel

    Located at one end of Sjøgata, Fru Haugan Hotel is the oldest hotel in Northern Norway. The hotel opened in 1794, and ever since 1885 the same family has owned the business. It has been run by women for several generations.

    The hotel has a lovely garden and a very nice restaurant called Restaurant Ellen.

    Stay in one of the restored houses

    Some of the houses on Mosjøen have been converted into guesthouses. You can rent them on the following website: https://kulturverkstedet.ipage.no/overnatting/

    Visit the Museums

    In Mosjøen is the Helgeland Museum. Helgeland is the name of the traditional district along the coast; Norway’s Coastal Road is often called the Helgeland Coastal Road because it mostly covers this traditional district. At the museum you’ll learn about the history of the town but also check out the temporary exhibitions, concerts and other events.

    Another the museum is the Vefsn Museum. Vefsn is the name of the municipality that we are in. The museum has local art installations and some hsitory about the area. Close to the museum is the rural building collection, made up of 12 farmhouses, shops and other wooden buildings from the 18th and 19th centuries. Your ticket to the Vefsn Museum includes this outdoor building collection.

    A regional centre for culture

    The building that houses the Kulturverkstedet was built in 1862 by the merchant Jacob C. Jacobsen. The building was the largest and grandest mercantile building in Mosjøen. The building opened in 1984 as a culture house. It has a venue for meetings and conferences, but it also has a café and gallery.

    The Christmas Town of Norway

    The locals in Mosjøen regard themselves as the ‘Christmas town’ of Norway, and around Christmas they host the world’s longest porridge table. The town also hosts plenty of events and stalls around Christmas. They have their own Facebook page, which you can view here: https://www.facebook.com/julebyenmosjoen/

    Try the Famous Coffee!

    Matkollektivet Vikgården is a famous café in Mosjøen because it still brews coffee in the old-fashioned way. The coffee is so tasty (and strong!) The café is housed in a restored grocery store from the 1880s and also has some excellent cinnamon buns.

    Head out for some local food

    Gilles Café is a popular café amongst locals. Otherwise, you can try Blomsterbua for some amazing Italian-style pizzas. But Emma, is Italian really local? Well, probably not. But this is the most popular place for the locals to do. Do as the locals do and get a pizza!

    Inside Fru Haugens Hotel you’ll find a more traditional Norwegian menu at the Restaurant Ellen. Menu items include beef, duck and clipfish.

    Mosjøen

    Explore the great outdoors!

    Mosjøen is perfectly situated if you want to take part in some outdoor activities. Close to the town is the Helgelandstrappa or the Helgeland Stairs, a challenging 3,000 steps laid down by sherpas up the mountain Øyfjellet, which is 800m (2600ft) above the town. It’s worth it for the views!

    Practical Information

    Mosjøen is located just off the European Highway 6, the main highway running through Norway. There is a huge carpark outside Sjøsiden Senter, a shopping mall.

    The E6 Highway

    Mosjoen is located on the E6, Norway’s main highway. You can find my guide to the E6 by clicking the link below. 

    The E6 Highway
    MoSjØen Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide
  • Ålesund, History

    The History of Ålesund

    The History of Ålesund

    Ålesund is today famous for its famous art nouveau architecture, but the city has a fascinating past all the way back to the time of the Vikings. The settlement at Ålesund didn’t emerge until the 18th century, but the area around Ålesund is mentioned in all the Norse sagas as a wealthy trading area. After Ålesund got market rights to compete against Bergen’s monopoly, people began settling here to take part in the rich cod fisheries. A fire in 1904 completely devastated the city, but Ålesund rose from the ashes as one of the most beautiful cities in Norway. Here is my overview of the history of Ålesund.

    In this article...

    The E39 Highway

    Ålesund is located on the E39, the main highway along the west coast. You can find my guide to the E39 by clicking the link below. 

    The E39 Highway
    Ålesund Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Norway's Coastal Ferry

    Kirkenes is a port of call of Norway’s coastal ferry. Find my guide for the coastal ferry by clicking the link below. 

    Norway's Coastal Ferry

    The Viking Sagas

    Ålesund isn’t mentioned for the first time until the 18th century, but places around Ålesund are known from the Viking Age. For example, Steinvåg is mentioned in connection with St. Olav’s visit in 1029, and in 1184 King Sverre (who founded Trondheim) visited the area.

    However, there is one place in particular that is famous from the Viking Age.

    Borgund

    To the southeast of Ålesund city centre is a place known as Borgund (not to be confused with the famous stave church of the same name). Borgund is the oldest known dwelling in the region. This is where the history of Ålesund begins.

    Archaeological excavations have shown settlement from the 11th century onwards. The remains of up to four marble churches have been found, indicating the area was very wealthy and important. One of the medieval churches, Borgund Church, is still standing today. Excavations show there there 40-50 dwellings here.

    The reason for Borgund’s importance was the rich fisheries in the Borgund Fjord, in particular the cod fisheries. The town functioned as a gathering and distribution centre for products from the region that would then be sent on to Bergen and sold to the Hanseatic League. Exchange goods, such as ceramics from Germany and textiles from England, were brought back from Bergen.

    Borgund survived partly in thanks to a powerful family called the Giske Family.

    Visiting Borgund Today: Borgund is located just outside of Ålesund. You can visit the church or one of two museums on the side; The Medieval Museum (https://www.vitimusea.no/musea/middelaldermuseet) or the Sunnmøre Museum (https://www.vitimusea.no/musea/sunnmoere-museum)

    You can read about the excavation work on the University of Bergen website (including pictures): https://www.uib.no/en/rg/borgund-kaupang/134757/excavating-borgund

    Giske

    The Giske Family was a Norwegian aristocratic family from the Viking Age through to the 17th century. They lived on an island called Giske, which is today just north of the city of Ålesund and accessible by road tunnel.

    The family is mentioned in the Norse Sagas and were connected to both St. Olav and the King Harald Hardråde through marriage. One of the Giske’s fell at the famous Battle of Stamford Bridge in 1066, which is regarded as the end of the VIking Age.

    Through marriage and purchasing, the Giske family became one of the wealthiest families in Norway. The last Giske died in 1605 (a widow with no children), and at the time the estate owned 192 properties.

    It is possible to visit the island of Giske today. Their church, Giske Church, still stands today. Burial mounds are also located on the island and can be visited.

    Ålesund's Early Years

    Due to Bergen’s monopoly on trade in Norway, Borgund eventually declined in importance. However, Bergen’s monopoly did not last forever; starting in the 1700s there was increased demand to open more market towns along the Norwegian coast. The site of present-day Ålesund was chosen was one of these new market towns. There were people living here at the time; Ålesund was first mentioned in 1766, when a Norwegian priest called Hans Strom mentioned Aalesund (the old spelling of the town name).

    Ålesund received trading rights in 1793. However, this did not immediately result in success; it took another 60 years before major growth started. Full market town rights were granted in 1848, and after that the city began to see growth.

    Ålesund’s town centre was built around the narrow Ålesundet sound between the islands. The first settlers came from Bergen; living and trading here for part of the year.

    Rapid Growth & Wealth

    The modern founders of the town are considered to be the member of Parliament, Peter Tonning, and the fish exporter Carl Rønneberg. They ensured that Ålesund was given rights to trade and export without going through Bergen. Because of this, Ålesunds growth coincides with Bergen’s decline.

    Thanks to the natural harbour, Ålesund grew very quickly. The nearby rich fisheries and the harbour brought people from all over the west. Eventually fish processing factories were established, and the expanding fishing fleet grew here as well. Eventually steamships began docking at Ålesund and larger factories were built.

    In 1872, author Magdalene Thoresen described the city as follows:

    It is a fresh sight to see this small coastal town with its newly built houses, scattered over the bare mounds that often look like reefs, and you get the impression that it was built in a hurry, built up by chance and the mood which comes with a fast, dangerous profession. Here, no even, calm deliberation goes through anything; even the large, dizzying warehouses and individual magnificent buildings speak only of the rapid rise of profit and the boldness of large speculations. Of course, there are also buildings which clearly show that here prosperity resides in safe enclosure, here no more daring. But most of it gives the impression of rapid rise

    Ålesund continued to experience wealth and rapid growth until the fire of 1904 struck.

    1904 Fire

    Because of the rapid growth of the city, the towns buildings were somewhat randomly built timber buildings. This was a huge reason why the city was so quickly devastated by fire.

    On the 23rd of January 1904, a fire started in the Aalesund Preserving Company’s factory at around the same time a storm from the southwest was blowing through. Overnight, the fire destroyed over 800 buildings and 10,000 of Ålesund’s 12,000 people were left homeless.

    Only one person died; an elderly woman who had safely evacuated her home but decided to go back to retrieve her purse. Ironically, she lived closest to the fire station.

    One other man refused to leave his home so his friends and family carried out all his furniture and belongings to save them from the fire. After the fire, the house survived but all the furniture was destroyed.

    Financial Help

    The news of the destruction of Ålesund spread all throughout Europe, and money began pouring in to help rebuild the city. One of the biggest contributors was Kaiser Wilhelm II, who had spent many vacations in the area. He sent five support ships full of food, medicine, construction materials, blankets, and other forms of aid to the town. The main street in Ålesund is named after him because of this.

    Architectural Style

    After the fire, the city decided to employ fresh Norwegian architects to design and rebuild the town. The approximately 50 architects selected to design the town had just studied abroad and become influenced by the Jugendstil, or Art Nouveau, style, and decided to rebuild the town in a very uniform style.

    Art Nouveau in Norway takes a lot of influence from medieval buildings such as stave churches but also motifs from the Viking Age and Norse Sagas. Additionally, lots of nature elements are used on the buildings.

    Learn more: In Ålesund you’ll find the Jugendstilsenteret, a museum all about Ålesund’s art nouveau architecture. The museum also covers how the city was devastated by fire but quickly rebuilt itself.

    Rebuilding

    Ålesund was rebuilt very quickly. By 1906, a major part of the town had been rebuilt with well-planned streets and strict building specifications. Timber was forbidden in the town centre but still exists around the town.

    The big reason for the rapid rebuilding was that there were so many tradesmen without work at the time, so it was easy to hire people.

    World War II

    After the Nazi invasion of Norway on the 9th of April 1940, Ålesund was not immediately occupied. It was free territory during the initial phase of fighting in Norway. The government used the Ålesund coastal radio station to communicate with the United Kingdom, and because of this Ålesund was bombed in late April 1940.

    After the Nazis occupied Ålesund, the mountain Aksla was used for military fortifications.

    Ålesund became known as ‘Little London’ by the Gestapo because of the resistance work that took place here. The large transport group known as the Shetland Bus used Ålesund as one of their major bases for transporting goods between Shetland and Norway. Several members of the group were caught and executed for their participation in the group.

    Ålesund Today

    Today Ålesund is one of the main centres in Western Norway and is also home to Norway’s largest and most modern ocean-going fishing fleets. There are also shipyards, mechanical workshops and other industries here.

    You can read about Ålesund, as well as what to do when visiting, on my Ålesund travel guide page.

    The E39 Highway

    Ålesund is located on the E39, the main highway along the west coast. You can find my guide to the E39 by clicking the link below. 

    The E39 Highway
    Ålesund Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Norway's Coastal Ferry

    Kirkenes is a port of call of Norway’s coastal ferry. Find my guide for the coastal ferry by clicking the link below. 

    Norway's Coastal Ferry
  • Eidfjord, Hardangerfjord

    Stopping by Norway’s Famous Vøringsfossen Waterfall

    Stopping by Norway’s Famous Vøringsfossen Waterfall

    Vøringsfossen is arguably the most famous waterfall in Norway. Water drops 182 metes from the Hardangervidda plateau down to the Måbødalen valley. I’ve taken people to the waterfall many times, and I must admit the first few times I didn’t quite understand the appeal of the waterfall. I think there are much nicer waterfalls in Western Norway, such as Tvindefossen. However, as I began to walk more around the viewing platform, I began to realise just how spectacular the valley is.

    Here’s a short but useful practical guide to visiting the waterfall and making the most of your time there.

    In this article...

    The Rv7 Highway

    Voringsfossen is located on the Rv7, a major highway between east and west Norway. You can find my guide to the Rv7 by clicking the link below. 

    The Rv7 Highway
    Eidfjord Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Geography & Location

    The waterfall is located on Måbødalen, or the Måbø Valley. The deep and steep Måbødalen is the result of ice and water having cut into slacker and more open valleys. Remains of the older valley floor are found high up on the steep valley sides. The inner part of the valley is an extreme case of ice carving out the landscape. The deposits around the valley are visible and of great importance.

    It is possible to see Vøringsfossen from the bottom of the valley, and you can hike up the valley today.

    Discovery of the Waterfall

    Vøringsfossen is part of the Bjoreio river in Eidfjord municipality. The amount of water is regulated in connection with power development, and there is a requirement for a minimum water flow during the summer so we are able to actually see the waterfall.

    Until 1821, the waterfall was virtually unknown outside of the local community. Professor Christopher Hanseen crossed the plateau to make some astrological observations and while travelling he was stopping to admire the waterfalls. The mountain men carrying his equipment showed him Vøringsfossen and Hansteen was amazed by it. This visit was Vøringsfossen’s breakthrough as a natural attraction.

    Cruise ships began coming to the Hardangerfjord region in the 1860s and passengers would be taken by horse to view the waterfall. Eventually a new road was built to make the journey a little easier for the tourists.

    The road and tunnel network up the valley

    Establishment of the Road

    Måbødalen was impassable before 1790, when bridges and a stairway with 1300 steps were constructed for travellers going between east and west Norway via Hardangervidda. The steps were designed only for people accustomed to the mountains. Most of this road is inaccessible today as geological surveys found the road was at high risk of landslides and generally unstable.

    The car road was completed in 1916. Today it’s only possible to experience the old road on foot or bicycle. It was the first road connection between Eastern and Western Norway over the Hardangervidda Plateau. It is one of the best examples of road engineering from the early 20th century. The modern car road is from the 1980s and uses a tunnel system to make the drive a little easier. The road is especially exciting when looking at it on Google Maps. There are many nice viewpoints along the way, but I’ve found they get very crowded in summer as people park to go for a hike and the carparks can only fit 5 or so cars.

    Vøringsfossen Fossli Hotel
    Fossli Hotel

    Fossli Hotel

    Fossli Hotel is the building next to Vøringsfossen. The hotel was built in the 1880s by Ola Garen. It is designed in an art nouveau style, and all the materials were transported up the valley by horse. The hotel is a lovely place to stay, though it does look a little dated. However, you won’t be spending much time in the room anyway. The hotel is close to some spectacular hiking and cycling paths, and they have an in-house bar and restaurant. https://www.booking.com/hotel/no/fossli.html

    The Viewing Platform at Fossli

    From Fossli Hotel, you can walk around the top of the plateau, getting different views as you go. This is where you get the nicest views of the waterfall; there are platforms further down but I believe the ones close to the hotel are the best.

    You’ll find maps and information about walking routes outside the carpark.

    Maps and trails in the valley

    The Footbridge

    A new footbridge was built over the waterfall in 2020 to much controversy. It was designed by architect Carl-Viggo Hølmebakk who won an architectural competition. The bridge has a span of 47 metres and has 99 steps. It was heavily criticized for ruining the natural view of Vøringsfossen, and I’m not convinced it has the best views; I’ve found the best views are from near Fossli Hotel.

    Practical Information

    Getting Here

    Vøringsfossen is one of the tops on the Hardanger Tourist Road. It is located just off Highway 7, which runs between Bergen and Oslo via the Hardangervidda Plateau.

    Parking

    It is possible to park close to the Fossli Hotel. Parking is free.

    Hiking

    It is possible to hike from near Øvre Eidfjord (the last settlement before Vøringsfossen) up the Måbødalen to the viewpoint at Fossli. The hike is 9.3km and is considered a moderately challenging route, taking around four hours to complete. You can view it here: https://www.alltrails.com/trail/norway/vestland/mabodal-til-voringsfossen

    Coming with a tour

    Fjord Tours organises a sightseeing trip to the waterfall and nearby Hardangervidda Nature Centre. Click here for information about the tour.

    You visit the waterfall as part of the ‘Hardangerfjord in a Nutshell’ day trip from Bergen, which I highly recommend. Click here to learn more about it.

    Restrooms

    Restrooms are available by the parking lot at Fossli Hotel. Inside the hotel is a café where you can get coffee, tea, waffles and snacks.

    Visiting in winter

    The waterfall is partially or completely frozen in the winter, making it difficult to see if there’s a lot of snow. If it is snowy, it is not safe to go to the viewpoint at Fossli Hotel because the safety fence can be hidden and it’ll be very slippery.

    The Rv7 Highway

    Voringsfossen is located on the Rv7, a major highway between east and west Norway. You can find my guide to the Rv7 by clicking the link below. 

    The Rv7 Highway
    Eidfjord Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide