Emma

Hey! My name is Emma. I'm from Australia but have lived in Bergen, Norway, for the last eight years. I work as a local guide and tour leader for all over Northern Europe. The Hidden North is an online travel guide I have made to help you plan your own visit here.

  • Oslo City Centre: Self-Guided Walking Tour

    Oslo City Centre: Self-Guided Walking Tour

    Oslo is the perfect city for walking. The city is compact; it’s easy to get from one side to the other in less than half an hour. I find Oslo one of the most interesting cities in Norway to wander. 

    When I hear people talk about Oslo, they often mention that it’s a lot more modern than they’d expect. That’s certainly true; it doesn’t have the historic wooden buildings you find in Bergen or Trondheim, and neither does it have the beautifully decorated buildings you find in Stockholm and Copenhagen. Maybe that’s why many choose to skip extensively exploring Oslo. Most just go to the museums and then leave.

    I think there’s a lot to be discovered in Oslo by walking. In my previous self-guided walk for Oslo, which focused on the old town Christiania, I found so many hidden treasures of the old city.

    This walk, however, is definitely the beaten path. Focusing primarily on Karl Johans Gate, the main pedestrian street, you’ll feel the crowds and tourists here. However, rather than focus on shops and eateries, here I’ve tried to pull out and find the historic buildings that can be found in this part of the city.

    Here’s my self-guided walk for Oslo city centre. 

    In this article...

    Oslo Travel Guide

    You can find a detailed overview of Oslo, including practical, historic and travel information on our dedicated travel guide page. 

    Downloadable Version of This Guide

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided walks on our online store. 

    Online Guide

    Downloadable Guide

    Start: Oslo Opera House

    This walk begins outside one of the most famous buildings in Oslo: the opera house. The Oslo Opera House opened in 2008 and quickly won awards for its architectural beauty. The building is covered in white granite and white Italian marble, while the interior is primarily in oak to bring warmth to the space.

    The building is designed so you can walk up the roof.

    It is possible to take a guided tour inside the opera house, and I highly recommend it.

    Behind the opera house you’ll see the new Munch Museum peaking out. 

    Deichman Library

    This is Oslo’s brand-new library: it opened in October 2020. The library brand, Deichman, is actually the oldest public library in Norway. The name comes from businessman and collector Carl Deichman, who gave his private collection of books for public use in Oslo. The first Deichman library opened in 1785.

    The decision to build a new library building came in 2001, but it took some time to find the location and decide on the building style. The old Deichman building is close to where the 2011 terrorist attack happened. 

    Oslo Central Station

    We are now at Oslo Central Station. The station is built on the site of the older Oslo East Station. In total, there are 19 tracks with connections to all over Norway as well as Sweden.

    The first railway in Norway was the Hovedbanen between Oslo and Eidsvoll. A temporary station was built in Oslo while pans were made to design a better building. The population in Oslo was growing quick (it doubled to 150,000 between 1875 and 1890), so a large building was needed. The older part of the station that you see is part of this expansion and is the old Oslo East Station. Today the older part of the building is called Østbanehallen (East Railway Hall) and is a food hall and shopping mall.

    Palehaven

    The name of this square you see in front of the station is Palehaven or ‘Christian Frederiks Plass’. This name connects to the older city of Oslo, Christiania (covered on a separate walking tour). Christian Frederik was the Danish-Norwegian crown prince who attempted to become the independent King of Norway after the end of the Danish Union in 1814. However, Norway was promised to Sweden, so the country became part of the Swedish Union instead.

    The garden originally belonged to the Palace, the country’s first royal residence in recent times, and Christian Frederick was the first king to live here. The garden was laid out in the 18th century and the old Palace building was completed in 1848. The garden was known for its large collection of crops, but very little of it remains today. Few pictures of it exist.

    You can view old photos of it here: https://no.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pal%C3%A9et

    The Tiger Statue

    The Tiger of Oslo is a famous monument outside the Central Station. In the 19th century Oslo earned the nickname ‘The Tiger City’ from a poem called Sidste Sang by Bjørnstjerne Bjørnson, which describes a fight between a horse and a tiger. The horse represented the safe countryside, while the tiger represents the dangerous city. For many Norwegians travelling into the capital from the country, Oslo must’ve felt like a loud, strong, and potentially dangerous place!

    The statue was gifted to Oslo for their 1000-year anniversary in 2000.

    Behind Central Station (not visible from here) is the high immigrant neighbourhood called Grønland. It has lots of great restaurants with cuisines from all over the world. However, Grønland has also been the subject of debate due to its almost ghetto-like status. The existence of Grønland divides public opinion; some love the diversity, while others don’t like how crime-ridden it has become.

    Amerikalinjen Building

    The building you see here is the old Norwegian America Line Headquarters. This was a Norwegian liner company founded in 1910 to operate ships between Norway and the USA. The company was established to assist in the mass emigration to the United States, operating between Norway and New York. Eventually the company also had ships going from Norway to Canada. After World War II, the company was primarily involved in cruise traffic but was eventually sold off into other companies and no longer exists today.

    The building has been transformed into a high-end boutique hotel called Amerikalinjen.

    Karl Johans Gate

    Karl Johan gate is the main boulevard that links Central Station with the Royal Palace. It is named after the French General Jean-Baptiste Bernadotte, who took the Swedish name Karl Johan during the Napoleonic Wars. He became the Crown Prince of Sweden in 1810 and then was the King of Sweden and Norway between 1818 and 1848. 

    The street is a combination of several older streets.

    The eastern section, where we are now, was part of the old city of Christiania, while the wider western section was built during the 1840s as an avenue connecting the Royal Palace to the rest of the city.

    Most of the buildings on this end of the street are from the late 19th century.

    The street today is a little touristy, but there are some historic places along the street.

    As you enter Karl Johans Gate, one of the first shops you see to your right is Helly Hansen, the famous Norwegian outdoor wear brand.

    The Bazaars

    The Baazars were built in 1840-1859 in a neo-Romantic style. Before the bazaars were constructed, this is where the butchers would have their stalls. However, in the mid-19th century there was increasing demand to improve the hygiene conditions of the area. So it was decided to build 24 brick stalls. It was later expanded. At the beginning of the 20th century, there was a plan put forward to tear down the bazaars and build the Oslo Stock Exchange here. Eventually the plans were rejected, but this sparked one of the city’s earliest debates about demolition or preservation.

    Today you’ll find lots of restaurants and cafes in the bazaars. There are still some markets here.

    Oslo Fire Station

    The old Oslo fire station was built in the 1850s in a neo-Romanesque style and was planned to fit into the bazaars. It was the city’s first fire station; yes, it took that long to get a permanent fire station! The tower was used for drying hoses and also operated as a fire watch tower. However, it was too low so they used the Cathedral tower instead. The station was manned 24 hours a day until 1902, and Oslo’s main fire station was completed in 1939, making this one obsolete.

    Oslo Cathedral

    Oslo Cathedral is the main church for Oslo. It was built in 1697 (but rebuilt between 1848 and 1850) after the second church (in Christiania) burnt down. The cathedral is used by the Norwegian royal family and the Norwegian government for public events.

    Be sure to look on the corner of the church. Here you’ll see a stone from Oslo’s first cathedral; over 1000 years old. Unfortunately the cathedral no longer stands, but its ruins can be seen at Gamle Oslo (self-guided walk coming soon). If you look further up the tower, you’ll see small square windows. This is where the fire brigade had their watch.

    The stained glass windows in the choir are by Emanuel Vigeland (brother to famous sculptor Gustav Vigeland).

    Outside the cathedral is a memorial for the victims of the 2011 terrorist attack. 

    The cathedral is open during the day and is free to visit. 

    Stortorvet

    In the 17th century, when Oslo’s city wall was located here, this big square was where the farmers entered and sold their goods. Stortorvet was officially inaugurated in 1736 and was the main town market until 1869.

    Across the street is the restaurant Stortorvets Gjestgiveri. The building is from the 18th century and used to be an inn where travellers would rest before entering the city of Christiania. The street in front is called Grensen, which means ‘the border’. It’s where the old city wall used to be.

    Today it’s famous as a flower and produce market.

    The statue is of the Danish-Norwegian King Christian IV, who ruled Norway around 1600. He named the city after himself: Christiania.

    Egertorget

    This marks the point where the old and new sections of Karl Johans gate meet; you will notice there’s an almost bend in the road. Egertorget grew in the mid-19th century as a residential area after the two streets were connected.

    Here you’ll see the large Freia neon sign from 1911. This is Norway’s chocolate brand. Norwegians link of Freia as a ‘little piece of Norway’. There is a Freia shop along Karl Johans gate.

    Norwegian Parliament

    Norway’s Parliament building is from 1866 and almost seems to counter the Royal Palace at the other end of Karl Johans gate. If the flag is flying, parliament is in session. Today the king is a figurehead, and Norway is run by a unicameral parliament and prime minister.

    The name of the Parliament in Norwegian is Stortinget, an Old Norse word.

    It’s possible to take a guided tour of the parliament

    Grand Hotel & Cafe

    On the other side of Karl Johans Gate is the Grand Hotel, where the Nobel Peace Prize winner stays every year. Grand Hotel was established in 1874, but has undergone several renovations since then. The current appearance is from around 1915. 

    You can view old photos of Grand Hotel here. 

    Grand Café is an equally historic café and for many years this is where Oslo’s intellectual and creative elite would meet, perhaps most famously Henrik Ibsen. Inside the café is a mural showing all the regulars of Grand Café.

    Eidsvolls Plass

    The large park in front of the Parliament is called Eidsvolls Plass. ‘Eidsvoll’ refers to the town north of Oslo where the Constitution was written in 1814.

    The western part is nicknamed Spikersuppa by the locals after Christiania Spigerverk paid for a refurbishment in 1956. The area was originally a marsh area until the 1840s, when it was laid out in connection with the establishment of Karl Johans gate.

    On this stretch of Karl Johans gate you’ll see several beautiful buildings. These were built up in the mid-19th century as a place for the wealthy to live. Today they have been joined together and are a shopping mall.

    There are statues of many important Norwegians in the park, including Christian Frederik (the Danish crown prince who tried to be Norwegian King), Johan Sverdrup and Carl Joachim Hambro.

    Every Christmas they close the park and turn it into a Christmas Market.

    Close to the parliament you’ll see three public toilets painted to look like the French flag. This is a work of art called Liberte. On the roof are the slogans from the French Revolution: Liberty, Equality and Brotherhood. Inside the toilets, speakers play audio recordings of Franklin Roosevelt, Charles de Gaulle, and King Haakon VII.

    University of Oslo

    The University of Oslo is the first university building in Norway, dating from 1854.

    The paving of the square dates from 1931. The cobblestone pattern is characterised by neoclassicism, just like the University buildings. 

    During World War II, the square was used for parades and propaganda events by the Nazis.

    In the square is a statue of Professor Anton Martin Schweigaard, a lawyer, economist and politician who was a professor at the University for almost 30 years. He was elected to the Storting for almost 30 years and is described as one of the most important political and intellectual figures in Norway during the 19th century.

    Royal Palace

    Straight ahead we can see the Royal Palace. This Neoclassical building was completed in 1849 and is the residence of the Norwegian Royal Family. It is possible to visit inside with a guided tour.

    National Theatre

    The earliest theatre in Oslo is the Christiania Theatre, which was founded in 1829. However, the theatre we see today had its first performance in 1899. The theatre was a private institution until 1929, when the government started providing it with financial support.

    The theatre is often considered the home for the plays of Henrik Ibsen.

    Statues of Norway’s most famous playwrights – Ibsen and Bjørnsen – are outside the theatre.

    Underneath the theatre is one of the major train stations in Oslo: The National Theatre station. From here you can take the train or metro all over the city, and the buses from here go to Bygdøy.

    Oslo City Hall

    Construction for Oslo City Hall began in the 1930s. At the time, the dark brick was considered very on trend. However, the city hall construction was delayed during World War II, and by the time the city hall opened int he 1950s, it was considered a little old-fashioned. Today, the appearance of the building does divide opinion. Some say it looks like a block of brown cheese!

    Inside the city hall is a completely different feel. Leading artists designed different rooms, including Edvard Munch, and I highly recommend taking the time to walk around inside (free to do). 

    If you circle the inner part of the city hall (outside), you’ll seen wooden motifs representing the Old Norse sagas. Descriptions explain their meaning in English. 

    The city hall is where the Nobel Peace Prize is awarded every year. 

    Oslo Harbour

    The Oslo Harbour is a new development that forms part of the ‘Fjord City’ urban renewal project. Before this, it was a busy highway.

    Facing the water, if you look to the right you’ll see the Nobel Peace Centre and the National Museum. The waterfront buildings form Aker Brygge, an area with very hip bars and restaurants. At the end of Tjuvholmen, an art district with some of the most expensive apartments in Oslo. 

    To the left, you’ll see Akershus Fortress. 

    End of the Walk

    If you want to continue your walk, Turn left and follow the main road. You’ll end up at Christiania Square, where you can begin our Christiania walking tour. Or you can visit Akershus Fortress and do our Akershus walking tour. 

    Oslo Travel Guide

    You can find a detailed overview of Oslo, including practical, historic and travel information on our dedicated travel guide page. 

  • Add Utne to Your Hardanger Road-Trip

    Add Utne to Your Hardanger Road-Trip

    Back in June of 2022 I got the last-minute opportunity to lead a group to Utne in Hardanger. I’ve been to Hardanger many, many times (my husbands family is from Ulvik), but I’d never made the time to take the ferry across to Utne. So, of course, I took the job and off I went with a group of Americans. Boy, was I surprised.

    I had read about Utne and knew it was picturesque and charming, but I was surprised by just how lovely it was. We took the ferry across from Kinsarvik and then walked to the Hardanger Folk Museum. After having a guided tour through some of the outdoor buildings, we had lunch and free time to explore before we took the ferry back to Kinsarvik.

    You don’t need a guide to do Utne, and you can definitely overnight there. Utne doesn’t get the big tour buses and masses of caravans that other places in Hardanger get, so it almost feels like a well-kept secret being there. The village is very popular with Norwegians, though.

    Utne in Hardanger
    Looking out at Utne from the Folk Museum

    Utne is easily one of the most picturesque villages that you’ll find in Hardanger. Unlike many other towns that have succumbed to modernisation and development, Utne has preserved its old streets and wooden houses. It also has some of the most spectacular views out to the Hardangerfjord.

    I’ve put together an overview of the highlights of Utne so you can be convinced to add it to your Hardanger road-trip!

    In this article...

    First off, how do you get there?

    Utne is easily accessible by ferry or road (though it does look very isolated on a map!). There is a ferry route linking Utne to both sides of the fjord. One ferry goes from Kinsarvik to Utne, while the other goes from Kvanndal to Utne.

    It is possible to drive to Utne via Odda or Jondal, but the roads are narrow and the drive is time consuming. If you can, take a ferry.

    Tip – I would strongly recommend leaving your car at the ferry pier and taking the ferry over as just a person. It’s free for people to take the ferry without a car, and Utne is so walkable you don’t need a car.

    Utne's History

    Being a small village of 146 people, there’s no extensive records of Utne’s history. However, people have lived here for hundreds of years and they relied heavily on the fruit production that came to Hardanger in the 13th century. Utne is regarded as one of the best places to grow fruits, so the villagers relied on production every year to support themselves.

    These days Utne is less about fruit production and more about tourism, but fruit production is still extremely important to the area.

    Utne Hotel

    The first building you’ll see off the ferry is the Utne Hotel. The Utne Hotel is the oldest hotel in continuous operation in Norway, founded in 1722. Part of the hotel is from the 18th century, but a large part has been expanded and added on to. The largest development was in the late 19th century, when the hotel got its characteristic Swiss style of architecture. The last extension was in the 1930s.

    What’s fascinating is that the hotel has historically been managed by strong women. One of the old hostesses has earned the nickname ‘Mother Utne’ and she ran the hotel for 70s. She was apparently known all over Europe for her hospitality. There’s a silver wreath in the restaurant dedicated to her.

    There are only 17 rooms in the hotel, and each one is unique. It makes it feel extra special and exclusive, but this is also reflected in the price. Rooms go for about 5000 NOK a night.

    You can also visit the hotels restaurant and have a meal or take part in their cider tasting.

    If you want to stay somewhere a little more budget friendly, try the Hardanger Gjestegård. This historic guesthouse dates from 1898 and feels like a museum inside with its wooden panels and old furniture. It’s located about 10km out of Utne.

    You can visit their website here.

    Utne Church

    The white wooden church just above the hotel is not a historic church; it was built in the late 19th century after the locals wanted to stop taking the boat across to Kinsarvik Church. They had to raise the money to build the church themselves, so it did take some time. The church seats about 300 people. It’s just a few minutes walk from the ferry pier.

    Hardanger Folk Museum

    The Hardanger Folk Museum is one of the true delights of visiting Utne. The museum is a little hilly, but it’s well worth the climb.

    Reconstructed farm

    The museum was founded in 1911 and features a reconstruction of a traditional cluster farm. The oldest building is a medieval log house with a central open fire. The museum also has shops, businesses and mini factories from all over Hardanger.

    You can visit their website here.

    Birch roofing

    Preserved painting inside one of the farm houses

    Old beer bowl

    Down by the water are some well-preserved boathouses with traditional Hardanger boats.

    Hardanger fiddles on display

    Meanwhile, the indoor exhibitions focus on Hardanger folk costumes and folk music, in particular the Hardanger fiddle.

    Hardanger bunads

    Hardanger embroidery

    Inside you’ll also find a lovely cafe. A special treat about the museum is that they produce their own cider and juice, which is only available from the museum. This also brings me to the next reason to come here…

    Apple trees can be seen everywhere!

    Incredible Hardanger Fruits

    Utne is perfectly situated if you want to try the fruits grown in the Hardanger region. 1km from Utne is Norway’s largest fruit warehouse where plums, apples, pears and other fruits are sorted and packed. The region is also famous for its cider production, and you can buy cider from most farms.

    Utne is actually considered one of the best places in Hardanger for fresh fruit, and for many years the village relied on its fruit production.

    I am a huge fan of apples from Hardanger, and can never turn down the locally made apple juice. The ciders can be quite sweet, but they are also delicious.

    Hike it off!

    Utne is surrounded by short and long hikes. Close to the ferry pier you’ll find a map of all the hikes in the area.

  • A Heritage Walk through Harstad’s Historic Town Centre

    A Heritage Walk through Harstad’s Historic Town Centre

    Harstad is a large city in the far north of Norway. While it’s not as historic as its neigbhours Bodo and Tromso, the town has some charming historic buildings from the mid-19th century heyday of shipping. There are lots of terrible post-war buildings, too. So I wrote this guide to show you the highlights of Harstad.

    When I visited Harstad in June 2021 to plan this walk, I was surprised by how empty the town was. There are many shopping malls around the town today, so the inner town centre is in decline. Harstad isn’t exactly a place where people come to walk around; it seems to be more of a stopover on the way to popular natural attractions. But that’s why I wanted to try and figure out if there was any history in Harstad, and if so, where was it?

    Large parts of the historic buildings have been destroyed by fire or war, but there are some true historic gems to be found in Harstad.

    A huge help for this guide was LokalHistorieWiki, a Norwegian Wiki page where history enthusiasts can upload information about their town, broken down by street and house number. The group in Harstad is a very enthusiastic one, and there is a wealth of information and photographs there! The site is only in Norwegian, but I’ve included some links so you can look at the old photos.

    Here is a guide to the historic buildings in Harstad town centre.

    In this article...

    Norway's Coastal Ferry

    Kirkenes is a port of call of Norway’s coastal ferry. Find my guide for the coastal ferry by clicking the link below. 

    Harstadhamn

    Located just north of the city today is Harstadhamn, a small cove that served as the basis for the foundation of Harstad.

    Harstad wasn’t the original settlement in the area. Ever since the Viking Age there has been a settlement in the area around Trondenes Church, today a 10 minute drive from Harstad town centre. It was an important political centre in the Viking Age and was the main town for hundreds of years.

    Harstad began to overtake Trondenes in importance after Bergen’s monopoly on trade declined and traffic increased along the northern coast. Harstad had a better natural harbour than Trondenes, so gradually the town moved.

    The first settlement took place around Harstadhamn. The small cove was perfect for the smaller ships and here the sea-related business flourished as skilled and forward-looking people moved to the area.

    Havnegata

    Havnegata is where all the industry around Harstadhamn developed. Many large factory buildings used to be here; today pretty much all of them are gone.

    You can see more of the buildings if you walk down Havnegata, but the nicer walk is to head to the pier and follow the promenade towards the city.

    You can find some old photographs and maps at LokalHistorieWiki (click here).

    Harstad Library and Culture House

    Library operations have been in Harstad since 1848. The current library is incorporated into Haarstad’s Cultural Centre. The culture house was built in 1992 and is the city’s main venue with 1,000 seats.

    Havnegata 5B

    Next to the Culture House is a building that has kept its old factory appearance. This building is from 1916, when it was a factory for the Midnight Sun Preserving Company. Today the building is part of the University and works as a student hostel. Not a bad place for students to stay!

    Havnegata 9

    HarstadNumber 9 is arguably the most beautiful house on the street. It was built for the Store Norske Spitsbergen Kulkompani in 1919 and is now for the student union.

    Havnegata 23B - Gammelbrygga

    Here we find another old warehouse. This one is a well-known landmark that has been threatened with demolition for the past 10 years. A support group, Gammelbrygg’s Friends, has been established to research the pier and work to protect it.

    There’s still some disagreement about when it was built and what it was used for, but it is nice to see in the city.

    You can see some old photos of the pier at LokalHistorieWiki (click here).

    Harstadsjøen

    Looking out towards Harstadsjoen

    Harstadsjøen is the name for the old settlement of Harstad. As steamships began to overtake sailing ships, Harstadsjøen was a better spot for them to dock. The first merchant houses were developed along Strandgata because of its close proximity to Harstadsjøen, and many of them had harbour access.

    The yellow building is the Swedish Port Authority’s expedition building from 1913. It has architectural style in both Neo-Baroque and Art Nouveau, and the building housed many consulates for around Europe as well as many representatives from the Norwegian shipping companies.

    Strandgata

    Strandgata (Beach Street) is the street where many of Harstad’s most distinctive buildings stand. It is also mostly a pedestrianised street with lots of the local buisnesses.

    This street is fascinating because it really tells Harstad’s history. People came from all over Norway to try and establish a successful business in Harstad after the boom in shipping and trade. Most of the businesses along the street were established by out-of-towners coming here to try their luck.

    Here are some of the older houses along Strandgata.

    Strandgata 19

    Strandgata 19 is a bit of a detour away from the direction we are going, but it is worth it.

    This house was built by pharmacist Harald Dahl in 1894 in the Swiss style of architecture. The pharmacy operated here for 56 years. The Swiss architecture is some of the most beautiful in Harstad.

    Strandgata 12

    Strandgata 12 opened as a bookstore in 1902 by a woman called Mathilde Bakke, and since then it has been a car workshop and a children’s clothing store, amongst other things.

    Strandgata 10

    This is one of the older houses in Harstad; built in 1896. It was owned by a woman called Hilda Oldenborg, who ran a business in embroideries, yarn and a colonial that sold coffee. ‘Colonial’ was the name of a grocery store with imports from overseas (i.e. the ‘colonies’).

    Strandgata 8

    Number 8 is another early 20th century wooden building. It was owned by Elias Hoel, a pioneer in the town who came to own many of Harstad’s buildings. The locals recognise it as the Harstad Bookshop, which operated from 1925 until 2001 in the building.

    Strandgata 6

    This house was built by the merchant Peder Thorbergsen, who received a deed to the plot of land in 1894. The building used to have a dock out the back.

    Strandgata 4

    Strandgata 4 was built in 1891, though it was damaged by fire in 1913. When it was brick, the art nouveau style was used instead. The house operated as a smokehouse and warehouse.

    Strandgata 2

    The other brick building is number 2. It was for Gunder Erikens, a watchmaker who came to Harstad in 1902 and built a wooden house. The house had a wharf out the back; the house practically stood on the edge of the beach. On the street level was the goldware, watch and optics shop, and there was an apartment on the upper level.

    The property was damaged by fire because some boys anted to make their own New Years Fireworks, which led to an explosion.

    Rikard Kaarbø's Plass

    Rikard Kaarbø is the man who is considered to be the founder of Harstad. He was the initiator and contributor to a number of businesses in Harstad that contibuted to Harstad getting city status in 1904. Amongst other things, he established the first newspaper in Harstad. Rikard Kaarbø also worked with many of the steamship companies.

    Rikard Kaarbø's Plass 2

    This is the most striking building in Harstad. It is beautiful detailing in Art Nouveau and Neo-Gothic. It’s funny to think that the building was built for the Harstad Beer and Wine Association in 1906, but the bank took it over in 1917!

    In 2010, this building was voted ‘most beautiful’ by the Harstad locals.

    Rikard Kaarbø's Plass 4

    Number four is where businessman Elias Hoel lived from 1903.

    The square gained prominence in the 1920s and 1930s but not for good reasons. With high unemployment and poverty grappling Harstad, it was where the men who had nothing else to do gathered.

    Rikard Kaarbøs Gate

    This street has some well-preserved wooden buildings. Businessman Elias Hoel was the one who regulated the street and he owned most of the plots on the street. This was also Harstad’s first car-free street.

    The street passes through the square, so some of the buildings are close to number 2 (the beautiful brick building)

    Rikard Kaarbø's Gate 14

    This building is located across the street from the beautiful brick building. It’s worth checking out because it is Harstad’s oldest wooden building; built in 1870.

    Rikard Kaarbø's Gate 10

    Number 10 was built by master baker John Sumstad in 1913 and it was a bakery for around 20 years before being converted into a hotel called Hotel Royal.

    Rikard Kaarbø's Gate 8

    This building is from the 1880s and was used by Rikard Kaarbø as a post office.

    Rikard Kaarbøs Gate 6

    Number 6 was built by Elias Hotel in the 1890s and was operated as a hotel and restaurant called Britannia.

    Torvet

    Torvet is likely the oldest square in Harstad. Sadly most of the original buildings are gone but you can see them in photos.

    You can view photos of Torvet at LokalHistorieWiki (click here).

    Torvet 7

    This is the most interesting building on Torvet. It was built around 1900 and was known as Holmgården. The wooden building still stands, but a shopping mall has been built around it.

    Norway's Coastal Ferry

    Harstad is a port of call of Norway’s coastal ferry. Find my guide for the coastal ferry by clicking the link below. 

    End of the walk!

    We end our walk down by Torvet 7. This is by the water and also very close to where the Hurtigruten docks in the morning.

    I hope you enjoyed this heritage walk through Harstad. The goal was to show there’s more to Harstad than meets the eye, and that the historic buildings can still be found in the city.

    Travelling to Harstad on Hurtigruten?

    You probably have enough time to make it to Rikard Kaarbøs plass and back, now that you know the historic centre of Harstad is just a stones throw away.

  • Why You Should Visit Mosjøen on Your Norwegian Road-trip

    Why You Should Visit Mosjøen on Your Norwegian Road-trip

    During our Norwegian Coastal Road-trip of 2021, I decided on a whim that we should stop in Mosjøen on the long drive between Mo i Rana and Trondheim. I’d heard of the town before and that it was quite beautiful. However, I was totally blown away by how charming and picturesque the town was.

    In this guide, I’ve highlighted the best bits of Mosjøen. The town is perfect for an overnight stop on a road-trip, and there’s plenty in town to keep you busy.

    I think Mosjøen is one of Norway’s best-kept secrets, and after visiting I think you’ll also understand why!

    In this article...

    The E6 Highway

    Mosjoen is located on the E6, Norway’s main highway. You can find my guide to the E6 by clicking the link below. 

    History of Mosjøen

    Mosjøen is actually the oldest town in the traditional region of Helgeland, so the city is worth visiting if you are interested in historic places.

    The first mention of Mosjøen was in the 15th century, when it was mentioned in a land register. The area around Mosjøen was owned by the archdiocese of Nidaros in Trondheim until the Reformation. After the Reformation in 1537, all church property was transferred to the King. Mosjøen was owned by the Danish King until 1666, when King Frederik II transferred all public property to a man called Joachim Irgens, who was a Danish official and chamberlain to King Frederik III. This was the largest real estate transaction and privatisation in the Nordics ever. After Irgens died, the estate was broken up into several smaller ones.

    In the 18th century, Mosjøen had several merchants living here. They travelled to Bergen to sell their goods until 1794, when the merchant Erik Jorgen Sjursson was given the right to open a trading business and a guesthouse.

    Trade Growth & Market Rights

    In the 19th century, Mosjøen grew to become a small urban community that centered around trade. Those who did not have land to cultivate became artisans or day labourers, and Mosjøen became known for its many shoemakers, blacksmiths, and other craftsmen. Many took part in the Lofoten fishing season and Mosjøen was a meeting place between the Swedes, fishermen, farmers, and Sami.

    The First Industrial Wave

    Mosjøen’s development took an abrupt turn in 1856, when English immigrants founded the English Mill (Engelskbruket). The possibility of building sawmills led to many people settling in Mosjøen to try and make it big in the timber industry.

    The town was transformed into a modern trade and official town. The urban business life developed in the form of book shops, fashion shops, and eateries. By the end of the 19th century, Mosjøen had magazine publishers, pharmacists, photographers, hat makers and tons of eateries.

    The timber industry was not all positive. The forests surrounding Mosjøen were clearly marked by logging and the destruction of the environment. Because of the extensive logging, several farmers were forced to give up their farms and move.

    The timber industry slowed down in Mosjøen around the year 1899.

    World War II

    Mosjøen was captured by the Nazis on the 11th of May 1940. The Nazis used Mosjøen to transport people and goods for warfare to the far north. Several facilities including a Nazi headquarters and military camp were established in the town. During the evacuation of Finnmark in 1944, many evacuees came to Mosjøen.

    Thankfully, Mosjøen is one of the few towns in Northern Norway that was not extensively bombed.

    Second Industrial Period

    After the war, a new kind of industry came to Mosjøen. An aluminium plant opened in 1958 and is by far the largest industrial establishment in the city.

    As you drive into Mosjøen, you may wonder why I recommend it as a place to visit. The outskirts of the town have a very rough, industrial feel. But trust me and head into the city!

    Mosjøen Today

    Today the population of Mosjøen is around 9,812. Along with Narvik and Mo i Rana, Mosjøen is one of the industrial towns of the county Nordland. Mosjøen Aluminiumsverk is amongst the largest aluminium companies in Europe.

    Mosjøen is located in the middle of Sandnessjoen, Mo i Rana and Bronnoysund. It is about halfway between Trondheim and Bodo and is located on the Nordlandsbanen train.

    Sjøgata is one of the most charming streets in Northern Norway

    Sjøgata is the main street of historic Mosjøen. After the establishment of the English sawmill in 1866, Mosjøen turned into a meeting place for the English timber barons, forestry workers, Sami lumberjacks and Swedish mountain farmers who came down to barter, and tailors selling the latest styles from London or Paris.

    Post-war decline

    After World War II, Sjøgata was a street not many went to. It was left run-down and in decline, and many saw it as a disgrace to the town. Living on Sjøgata became synonymous with poverty. The eagerness to tear down Sjøgata was so strong that a slogan “tear everything down” became common in the 1970s. You can’t blame them, though. The post-war years created a huge boom in the population and a need for parking spaces in the city, and Sjøgata was prime real estate.

    Mosjøen

    Restoration

    Thankfully, a few very passionate locals were able to campaign to protect Mosjøen. Even the then Crown Princess Sonja got involved in saving the street.

    The association Lydiabryggas Venner contributed to the building not being demolished and then supported the restoration of all the buildings.

    Today the project is considered a success and Sjøgata is the main reason many people come to Mosjøen. Sjøgata has Northern Norway’s longest continuous settlement of wooden houses and piers from the 19th century. Most of the buildings today are heritage listed and an emphasis has been put on preserving the old building techniques, details and colours.

    Wandering Down Sjøgata

    Thankfully, a few very passionate locals were able to campaign to protect Mosjøen. Even the then Crown Princess Sonja got involved in saving the street.

    The association Lydiabryggas Venner contributed to the building not being demolished and then supported the restoration of all the buildings.

    Today the project is considered a success and Sjøgata is the main reason many people come to Mosjøen. Sjøgata has Northern Norway’s longest continuous settlement of wooden houses and piers from the 19th century. Most of the buildings today are heritage listed and an emphasis has been put on preserving the old building techniques, details and colours.

    Sjøgata

    As you wander down Sjøgata, you’ll be spoiled for choice for the best photograph. Many of these houses are still private residences, so do be respectful of that. However, do take the time to visit some of the local boutiques.

    If you are interested in the history of the buildings, each building has a small sign in Norwegian explaining the history. At the tourist office you can pick up a booklet called The History of a Town that will provide you with an English translation.

    Mosjøen is Home to Northern Norway's Oldest Hotel

    Located at one end of Sjøgata, Fru Haugan Hotel is the oldest hotel in Northern Norway. The hotel opened in 1794, and ever since 1885 the same family has owned the business. It has been run by women for several generations.

    The hotel has a lovely garden and a very nice restaurant called Restaurant Ellen.

    Stay in one of the restored houses

    Some of the houses on Mosjøen have been converted into guesthouses. You can rent them on the following website: https://kulturverkstedet.ipage.no/overnatting/

    Visit the Museums

    In Mosjøen is the Helgeland Museum. Helgeland is the name of the traditional district along the coast; Norway’s Coastal Road is often called the Helgeland Coastal Road because it mostly covers this traditional district. At the museum you’ll learn about the history of the town but also check out the temporary exhibitions, concerts and other events.

    Another the museum is the Vefsn Museum. Vefsn is the name of the municipality that we are in. The museum has local art installations and some hsitory about the area. Close to the museum is the rural building collection, made up of 12 farmhouses, shops and other wooden buildings from the 18th and 19th centuries. Your ticket to the Vefsn Museum includes this outdoor building collection.

    A regional centre for culture

    The building that houses the Kulturverkstedet was built in 1862 by the merchant Jacob C. Jacobsen. The building was the largest and grandest mercantile building in Mosjøen. The building opened in 1984 as a culture house. It has a venue for meetings and conferences, but it also has a café and gallery.

    The Christmas Town of Norway

    The locals in Mosjøen regard themselves as the ‘Christmas town’ of Norway, and around Christmas they host the world’s longest porridge table. The town also hosts plenty of events and stalls around Christmas. They have their own Facebook page, which you can view here: https://www.facebook.com/julebyenmosjoen/

    Try the Famous Coffee!

    Matkollektivet Vikgården is a famous café in Mosjøen because it still brews coffee in the old-fashioned way. The coffee is so tasty (and strong!) The café is housed in a restored grocery store from the 1880s and also has some excellent cinnamon buns.

    Head out for some local food

    Gilles Café is a popular café amongst locals. Otherwise, you can try Blomsterbua for some amazing Italian-style pizzas. But Emma, is Italian really local? Well, probably not. But this is the most popular place for the locals to do. Do as the locals do and get a pizza!

    Inside Fru Haugens Hotel you’ll find a more traditional Norwegian menu at the Restaurant Ellen. Menu items include beef, duck and clipfish.

    Mosjøen

    Explore the great outdoors!

    Mosjøen is perfectly situated if you want to take part in some outdoor activities. Close to the town is the Helgelandstrappa or the Helgeland Stairs, a challenging 3,000 steps laid down by sherpas up the mountain Øyfjellet, which is 800m (2600ft) above the town. It’s worth it for the views!

    Practical Information

    Mosjøen is located just off the European Highway 6, the main highway running through Norway. There is a huge carpark outside Sjøsiden Senter, a shopping mall.

    The E6 Highway

    Mosjoen is located on the E6, Norway’s main highway. You can find my guide to the E6 by clicking the link below. 

  • The History of Ålesund

    The History of Ålesund

    Ålesund is today famous for its famous art nouveau architecture, but the city has a fascinating past all the way back to the time of the Vikings. The settlement at Ålesund didn’t emerge until the 18th century, but the area around Ålesund is mentioned in all the Norse sagas as a wealthy trading area. After Ålesund got market rights to compete against Bergen’s monopoly, people began settling here to take part in the rich cod fisheries. A fire in 1904 completely devastated the city, but Ålesund rose from the ashes as one of the most beautiful cities in Norway. Here is my overview of the history of Ålesund.

    In this article...

    The E39 Highway

    Ålesund is located on the E39, the main highway along the west coast. You can find my guide to the E39 by clicking the link below. 

    Norway's Coastal Ferry

    Kirkenes is a port of call of Norway’s coastal ferry. Find my guide for the coastal ferry by clicking the link below. 

    The Viking Sagas

    Ålesund isn’t mentioned for the first time until the 18th century, but places around Ålesund are known from the Viking Age. For example, Steinvåg is mentioned in connection with St. Olav’s visit in 1029, and in 1184 King Sverre (who founded Trondheim) visited the area.

    However, there is one place in particular that is famous from the Viking Age.

    Borgund

    To the southeast of Ålesund city centre is a place known as Borgund (not to be confused with the famous stave church of the same name). Borgund is the oldest known dwelling in the region. This is where the history of Ålesund begins.

    Archaeological excavations have shown settlement from the 11th century onwards. The remains of up to four marble churches have been found, indicating the area was very wealthy and important. One of the medieval churches, Borgund Church, is still standing today. Excavations show there there 40-50 dwellings here.

    The reason for Borgund’s importance was the rich fisheries in the Borgund Fjord, in particular the cod fisheries. The town functioned as a gathering and distribution centre for products from the region that would then be sent on to Bergen and sold to the Hanseatic League. Exchange goods, such as ceramics from Germany and textiles from England, were brought back from Bergen.

    Borgund survived partly in thanks to a powerful family called the Giske Family.

    Visiting Borgund Today: Borgund is located just outside of Ålesund. You can visit the church or one of two museums on the side; The Medieval Museum (https://www.vitimusea.no/musea/middelaldermuseet) or the Sunnmøre Museum (https://www.vitimusea.no/musea/sunnmoere-museum)

    You can read about the excavation work on the University of Bergen website (including pictures): https://www.uib.no/en/rg/borgund-kaupang/134757/excavating-borgund

    Giske

    The Giske Family was a Norwegian aristocratic family from the Viking Age through to the 17th century. They lived on an island called Giske, which is today just north of the city of Ålesund and accessible by road tunnel.

    The family is mentioned in the Norse Sagas and were connected to both St. Olav and the King Harald Hardråde through marriage. One of the Giske’s fell at the famous Battle of Stamford Bridge in 1066, which is regarded as the end of the VIking Age.

    Through marriage and purchasing, the Giske family became one of the wealthiest families in Norway. The last Giske died in 1605 (a widow with no children), and at the time the estate owned 192 properties.

    It is possible to visit the island of Giske today. Their church, Giske Church, still stands today. Burial mounds are also located on the island and can be visited.

    Ålesund's Early Years

    Due to Bergen’s monopoly on trade in Norway, Borgund eventually declined in importance. However, Bergen’s monopoly did not last forever; starting in the 1700s there was increased demand to open more market towns along the Norwegian coast. The site of present-day Ålesund was chosen was one of these new market towns. There were people living here at the time; Ålesund was first mentioned in 1766, when a Norwegian priest called Hans Strom mentioned Aalesund (the old spelling of the town name).

    Ålesund received trading rights in 1793. However, this did not immediately result in success; it took another 60 years before major growth started. Full market town rights were granted in 1848, and after that the city began to see growth.

    Ålesund’s town centre was built around the narrow Ålesundet sound between the islands. The first settlers came from Bergen; living and trading here for part of the year.

    Rapid Growth & Wealth

    The modern founders of the town are considered to be the member of Parliament, Peter Tonning, and the fish exporter Carl Rønneberg. They ensured that Ålesund was given rights to trade and export without going through Bergen. Because of this, Ålesunds growth coincides with Bergen’s decline.

    Thanks to the natural harbour, Ålesund grew very quickly. The nearby rich fisheries and the harbour brought people from all over the west. Eventually fish processing factories were established, and the expanding fishing fleet grew here as well. Eventually steamships began docking at Ålesund and larger factories were built.

    In 1872, author Magdalene Thoresen described the city as follows:

    It is a fresh sight to see this small coastal town with its newly built houses, scattered over the bare mounds that often look like reefs, and you get the impression that it was built in a hurry, built up by chance and the mood which comes with a fast, dangerous profession. Here, no even, calm deliberation goes through anything; even the large, dizzying warehouses and individual magnificent buildings speak only of the rapid rise of profit and the boldness of large speculations. Of course, there are also buildings which clearly show that here prosperity resides in safe enclosure, here no more daring. But most of it gives the impression of rapid rise

    Ålesund continued to experience wealth and rapid growth until the fire of 1904 struck.

    1904 Fire

    Because of the rapid growth of the city, the towns buildings were somewhat randomly built timber buildings. This was a huge reason why the city was so quickly devastated by fire.

    On the 23rd of January 1904, a fire started in the Aalesund Preserving Company’s factory at around the same time a storm from the southwest was blowing through. Overnight, the fire destroyed over 800 buildings and 10,000 of Ålesund’s 12,000 people were left homeless.

    Only one person died; an elderly woman who had safely evacuated her home but decided to go back to retrieve her purse. Ironically, she lived closest to the fire station.

    One other man refused to leave his home so his friends and family carried out all his furniture and belongings to save them from the fire. After the fire, the house survived but all the furniture was destroyed.

    Financial Help

    The news of the destruction of Ålesund spread all throughout Europe, and money began pouring in to help rebuild the city. One of the biggest contributors was Kaiser Wilhelm II, who had spent many vacations in the area. He sent five support ships full of food, medicine, construction materials, blankets, and other forms of aid to the town. The main street in Ålesund is named after him because of this.

    Architectural Style

    After the fire, the city decided to employ fresh Norwegian architects to design and rebuild the town. The approximately 50 architects selected to design the town had just studied abroad and become influenced by the Jugendstil, or Art Nouveau, style, and decided to rebuild the town in a very uniform style.

    Art Nouveau in Norway takes a lot of influence from medieval buildings such as stave churches but also motifs from the Viking Age and Norse Sagas. Additionally, lots of nature elements are used on the buildings.

    Learn more: In Ålesund you’ll find the Jugendstilsenteret, a museum all about Ålesund’s art nouveau architecture. The museum also covers how the city was devastated by fire but quickly rebuilt itself.

    Rebuilding

    Ålesund was rebuilt very quickly. By 1906, a major part of the town had been rebuilt with well-planned streets and strict building specifications. Timber was forbidden in the town centre but still exists around the town.

    The big reason for the rapid rebuilding was that there were so many tradesmen without work at the time, so it was easy to hire people.

    World War II

    After the Nazi invasion of Norway on the 9th of April 1940, Ålesund was not immediately occupied. It was free territory during the initial phase of fighting in Norway. The government used the Ålesund coastal radio station to communicate with the United Kingdom, and because of this Ålesund was bombed in late April 1940.

    After the Nazis occupied Ålesund, the mountain Aksla was used for military fortifications.

    Ålesund became known as ‘Little London’ by the Gestapo because of the resistance work that took place here. The large transport group known as the Shetland Bus used Ålesund as one of their major bases for transporting goods between Shetland and Norway. Several members of the group were caught and executed for their participation in the group.

    Ålesund Today

    Today Ålesund is one of the main centres in Western Norway and is also home to Norway’s largest and most modern ocean-going fishing fleets. There are also shipyards, mechanical workshops and other industries here.

    You can read about Ålesund, as well as what to do when visiting, on my Ålesund travel guide page.

    The E39 Highway

    Ålesund is located on the E39, the main highway along the west coast. You can find my guide to the E39 by clicking the link below. 

    Norway's Coastal Ferry

    Kirkenes is a port of call of Norway’s coastal ferry. Find my guide for the coastal ferry by clicking the link below. 

  • Stopping by Norway’s Famous Vøringsfossen Waterfall

    Stopping by Norway’s Famous Vøringsfossen Waterfall

    Vøringsfossen is arguably the most famous waterfall in Norway. Water drops 182 metes from the Hardangervidda plateau down to the Måbødalen valley. I’ve taken people to the waterfall many times, and I must admit the first few times I didn’t quite understand the appeal of the waterfall. I think there are much nicer waterfalls in Western Norway, such as Tvindefossen. However, as I began to walk more around the viewing platform, I began to realise just how spectacular the valley is.

    Here’s a short but useful practical guide to visiting the waterfall and making the most of your time there.

    In this article...

    The Rv7 Highway

    Voringsfossen is located on the Rv7, a major highway between east and west Norway. You can find my guide to the Rv7 by clicking the link below. 

    Geography & Location

    The waterfall is located on Måbødalen, or the Måbø Valley. The deep and steep Måbødalen is the result of ice and water having cut into slacker and more open valleys. Remains of the older valley floor are found high up on the steep valley sides. The inner part of the valley is an extreme case of ice carving out the landscape. The deposits around the valley are visible and of great importance.

    It is possible to see Vøringsfossen from the bottom of the valley, and you can hike up the valley today.

    Discovery of the Waterfall

    Vøringsfossen is part of the Bjoreio river in Eidfjord municipality. The amount of water is regulated in connection with power development, and there is a requirement for a minimum water flow during the summer so we are able to actually see the waterfall.

    Until 1821, the waterfall was virtually unknown outside of the local community. Professor Christopher Hanseen crossed the plateau to make some astrological observations and while travelling he was stopping to admire the waterfalls. The mountain men carrying his equipment showed him Vøringsfossen and Hansteen was amazed by it. This visit was Vøringsfossen’s breakthrough as a natural attraction.

    Cruise ships began coming to the Hardangerfjord region in the 1860s and passengers would be taken by horse to view the waterfall. Eventually a new road was built to make the journey a little easier for the tourists.

    The road and tunnel network up the valley

    Establishment of the Road

    Måbødalen was impassable before 1790, when bridges and a stairway with 1300 steps were constructed for travellers going between east and west Norway via Hardangervidda. The steps were designed only for people accustomed to the mountains. Most of this road is inaccessible today as geological surveys found the road was at high risk of landslides and generally unstable.

    The car road was completed in 1916. Today it’s only possible to experience the old road on foot or bicycle. It was the first road connection between Eastern and Western Norway over the Hardangervidda Plateau. It is one of the best examples of road engineering from the early 20th century. The modern car road is from the 1980s and uses a tunnel system to make the drive a little easier. The road is especially exciting when looking at it on Google Maps. There are many nice viewpoints along the way, but I’ve found they get very crowded in summer as people park to go for a hike and the carparks can only fit 5 or so cars.

    Vøringsfossen Fossli Hotel
    Fossli Hotel

    Fossli Hotel

    Fossli Hotel is the building next to Vøringsfossen. The hotel was built in the 1880s by Ola Garen. It is designed in an art nouveau style, and all the materials were transported up the valley by horse. The hotel is a lovely place to stay, though it does look a little dated. However, you won’t be spending much time in the room anyway. The hotel is close to some spectacular hiking and cycling paths, and they have an in-house bar and restaurant. https://www.booking.com/hotel/no/fossli.html

    The Viewing Platform at Fossli

    From Fossli Hotel, you can walk around the top of the plateau, getting different views as you go. This is where you get the nicest views of the waterfall; there are platforms further down but I believe the ones close to the hotel are the best.

    You’ll find maps and information about walking routes outside the carpark.

    Maps and trails in the valley

    The Footbridge

    A new footbridge was built over the waterfall in 2020 to much controversy. It was designed by architect Carl-Viggo Hølmebakk who won an architectural competition. The bridge has a span of 47 metres and has 99 steps. It was heavily criticized for ruining the natural view of Vøringsfossen, and I’m not convinced it has the best views; I’ve found the best views are from near Fossli Hotel.

    Practical Information

    Getting Here

    Vøringsfossen is one of the tops on the Hardanger Tourist Road. It is located just off Highway 7, which runs between Bergen and Oslo via the Hardangervidda Plateau.

    Parking

    It is possible to park close to the Fossli Hotel. Parking is free.

    Hiking

    It is possible to hike from near Øvre Eidfjord (the last settlement before Vøringsfossen) up the Måbødalen to the viewpoint at Fossli. The hike is 9.3km and is considered a moderately challenging route, taking around four hours to complete. You can view it here: https://www.alltrails.com/trail/norway/vestland/mabodal-til-voringsfossen

    Coming with a tour

    Fjord Tours organises a sightseeing trip to the waterfall and nearby Hardangervidda Nature Centre. Click here for information about the tour.

    You visit the waterfall as part of the ‘Hardangerfjord in a Nutshell’ day trip from Bergen, which I highly recommend. Click here to learn more about it.

    Restrooms

    Restrooms are available by the parking lot at Fossli Hotel. Inside the hotel is a café where you can get coffee, tea, waffles and snacks.

    Visiting in winter

    The waterfall is partially or completely frozen in the winter, making it difficult to see if there’s a lot of snow. If it is snowy, it is not safe to go to the viewpoint at Fossli Hotel because the safety fence can be hidden and it’ll be very slippery.

    The Rv7 Highway

    Voringsfossen is located on the Rv7, a major highway between east and west Norway. You can find my guide to the Rv7 by clicking the link below. 

  • Visiting the Vigeland Park in Oslo

    Visiting the Vigeland Park in Oslo

    No trip to Oslo is complete without a visit to the Vigeland Sculpture Park. After all, it is the most visited attraction in Norway, attracting up to two million visitors a year. The images of the various sculptures under different light and different seasons cover the tourist brochures, and Instagram is full of people posing outside their favourite statue.

    But what is the park? Is it worth visiting? Let’s discuss the history of importance of the park first, and then we’ll look into the practical information.

    In this article...

    What is the Vigeland Park?

    The Vigeland Sculpture Park is a permanent collection of sculptures made by Gustav Vigeland between 1924 and 1943. The park is around 43 hectares and the sculpture garden is the world’s largest sculpture park made by a single artist. It is listed on the Heritage Act as the first park in Norway.

    History of the Park

    Frogner Park

    The name of the park is not Vigeland park but Frogner Park; the name Vigeland Park is commonly used by tourists, while the correct name Frogner Park is used by locals.

    In the 18th century this was the private property of General Hans Jacob Scheel, who lived at Frogner Manor. He had the land landscaped into a baroque park. In the 19th century, industrialist Benjamin Wegner took over and landscaped it into a romantic park.

    Frogner Manor still stands today and is now the Oslo City Museum. The building is impressive and worth taking a look at; it is in the Danish country house style and goes back to the 1750s.

    Wegner also had some buildings built around the property. The pavilion was built on the nearby height ‘Utsikten’ (The View) and he also had the coachman house built at the main gate in front of the manor house. The pavilion is worth seeing; the ceiling is impressively painted to resemble the Pantheon in Rome.

    Becoming Vigeland's Park

    After Norway’s independence in 1905, Oslo underwent major expansion and many farms were bought so apartments could be built. Large parts of Frogner Estate were sold so the city could expand. The remaining estate was bought by the municipality so it could be made into a public park for sports and recreation.

    The land was given to Gustav Vigeland in the 1920s and has been known as the Vigeland Park ever since it became open to the public in the 1940s.

    Vigeland Park Children

    Who Was Gustav Vigeland?

    Gustav Vigeland (1869 – 1943) was born as Adolf Gustav Thorsen into a family of craftsmen. While he initially went to school in Oslo to learn wood carving, the sudden death of his father meant that he had to go and live with his grandparents in the south of Norway. They lived on a farm called Mjunebrokka in Vigeland parish, and Gustav decided to change his name to represent this farm.

    Fun fact – Gustav Vigeland’s brother, Emanuel Vigeland, is a well-known artist and has a number of works around the city, including inside Oslo Cathedral.

    As an adult, Gustav returned to Oslo with the goal of becoming a sculptor. He got the attention of Brynjulf Bergslien and then spent several years travelling through Copenhagen, Paris, Berlin and Florence. In Paris he became greatly inspired by Auguste Rodin and frequented his workshop, while in Italy he experimented with ancient and Renaissance works. During this time the themes that would later dominate his inspiration – death and relationships – first appeared.

    Gustav returned to Norway and participated in the restoration of Nidaros Cathedral in Trondheim. There he became inspired by medieval works, especially the dragon as a symbol of sin but also as a nature force, fighting against man.

    Establishing his studio in Oslo

    Once back in Oslo, he settled in an abandoned studio and began working. After Norway’s independence in 1905, he was regarded as Norway’s best sculptor and began creating various statues and busts of renowned Norwegians like Henrik Ibsen.

    In 1921 the city of Oslo decided to demolish the studio where Vigeland was working. After some negotiations, Vigeland was granted a new building from where he could work. In return, he promised to donate all of his subsequent works to the city. Vigeland moved into his new studio in Frogner and spent the rest of his life dedicated to building the public park.

    Gustav lived and worked in his studio until his death in 1942. His ashes are still in the belfry of the building, which is on Nobels gate. The building where he worked became the Vigeland Museum, and his apartment on the third floor is still preserved.

    What to see in Vigeland Park

    The Main Gate

    The Main Gate consists of five large gates, two small pedestrian gates and two copper-roofed gates, both adorned with weather vanes. The gate was designed in 1926 and was financed by a Norwegian bank.

    The Bridge

    The Bridge was the first part to open to the public in the 1940s. The bridge is 100m (328ft) long, 15m (49ft) wide and connects the Main Gate to the Fountain. Along the bridge are 58 sculptures. The most famous sculpture, Angry Boy, is located here. At the end of the bridge you’ll find a woman being embraced by a dragon, while the man is fighting it. Vigeland wasn’t exactly a feminist; these sculptures represent a woman giving into sin while a man fighting against it.

    Vigeland Park Angry Boy

    The Fountain

    The fountain was originally supposed to be at Eidsvolls Plass in front of the parliament of Norway. There are 60 bronze reliefs around the lower part of the fountain, and these follow the circle of life. If you look at the fountain, you’ll see that the men are holding up the bowl at various difficulties, i.e. some are doing a lot of work while others are doing not much at all. This represents that life can be unfair and not everyone shares equal responsibility.

    Be sure to look down – the ground is black and white granite designed as a maze. It’s very popular with kids.

    Vigeland Park Fountain

    The Rose Garden

    Vigeland Park has the largest collection of roses in Norway, with 14,000 plants and 150 species. Many of them can be seen here.

    Vigeland Park Rose Garden

    The Monolith

    The Monolith Plateau is a platform north of the park. There are 36 groups of figures around the monolith, representing a ‘circle of life’ theme.

    Around the plateau you’ll find eight wrought iron gates; on one side all the figures are men, while on the other side they are women.

    The Monolith is the highest point in the park. Construction began in 1924 when Gustav Vigeland modelled it in clay inside his studio. The design process took ten months, after which the model was cast in plaster.

    In 1927, a singular block of granite from Halden was delivered to the studio. It took three masons fourteen years to carve the granite. The Monolith is 14.12 metres (46.32ft) high and is composed of 121 human figures rising slowly towards the sky.

    Vigeland Park Monolith

    The Sundial

    At the end of the installation is a sundial, forged in 1930, and the Wheel of Life sculpture.

    The Sculptures

    Vigeland Park Sculpture Detail

    Gustav Vigeland famously said “it’s only when you put clothes on people that you start defining their religion or where they are from. When you are naked you can be anyone, anywhere at any time”. For this reason, all the statues are naked.

    The goal of the sculptures is to depict life in all its strange and wonderful forms. They depict people engaging in various typically human pursuits, such as wrestling, dancing, hugging and holding hands. They reveal a full range of human emotions, including anger and violence.

    Practical Information

    When is the best time to go?

    The park gets very busy between around 11am and 3pm, so if you want a bit more peace and quiet I recommend going outside of these hours.

    How long should I spend there?

    You’ll need at least one hour to walk around the Vigeland portion of the park; more time if you want to see Frogner Park. If you want to visit the museums as well, I recommend 2-3 hours here.

    Do I need a tour guide?

    In a way, yes. There is no written information about the sculptures, and while the sculptures are meant to be interpreted by the viewer, the tour guides do an excellent job of explaining the thought process behind the sculptures, the troubled life of Gustav Vigeland, and why the park is laid out like this.

    How do I get there?

    • Take Tram 12 from Dronningens gate (or whichever stop is closest to you). Follow the tram towards Majorstuen and ride for 12 minutes (8 stops) until you reach Vigelandsparken. The stop is right outside the park.
      • To get back to the city, take Tram 12 towards Kjelås
    • You can take the metro lines 1, 2, or 5 from Central Station to the stop ‘Majorstuen’, and from there it’s a 15 minute walk to the park.

  • Drive it Yourself: From the Lyngen Alps to Tromsø on the E6

    Drive it Yourself: From the Lyngen Alps to Tromsø on the E6

    The Lyngen Alps are described as the ‘Mecca’ for skiiers and hikers all over the world, with many dreaming of coming here just to make the most of the incredible downhill slopes. For those of us who aren’t here to ski, Lyngen is a gorgeous region perfect for a short vacation.

    We spent the night in the Lyngen region towards the end of our North Norwegian road-trip. For us, we chose it simply because it was roughly halfway between where we were (Hammerfest) and where we had to be (Tromsø). We found an adorable AirBNB overlooking the Alps and had a nice rest before finishing the drive.

    Most of this drive takes place on the E6, which also has the nickname ‘the Northern Lights Highway’ up here because of all the roadside stops perfect for viewing the lights. The E6 is the main highway running through Norway and while it is not the most scenic, it is the only way to get between places when you are this far north.

    Here’s an overview of what you can see along the way. 

    In this article...

    Downloadable Version of This Guide

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

    Online Guide

    Downloadable Guide

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    The drive: From the Lyngen Alps to Tromsø on the E6

    The Lyngen Alps

    The Lyngen Alps are a scenic mountain range that stretch 90km (56 mi) along the Lyngen Peninsula, with the Lyngen fjord to the east and the Ullsfjorden to the west.

    The mountains are popular among extreme skiers, with the highest summit being 1,833m (6,014ft) tall. The mountains are also popular with climbers.

    Olderdalen

    Olderdalen is the main centre for the Kåfjord Municipality we are in. The population is around 301 and the town looks out to the Lyngen Alps. If you use ferries, it is only a 70km drive. However, if you follow the E6 it is around 180km. Agriculture and fishing are the main industries.

    Birtavarre

    Birtavarre is a small village with a population of around 215. The village was a former mining town with smelters. It was during the mining period that it took the name Birtavarre; before then, it was known as ‘Kåfjordbotn’ after the fjord. The name Birtavarre comes from the nearby mountain Pirttivaara, which is a Kven language name.

    Manndalen

    Manndalen is a small village with a population of just under 1000. Historically, Manndalen was where the ‘three tribes’ (Kven, Sami, Norwegian) all settled. People began to arrive from Finland in the 1700s and many locals today consider themselves descendants of these people. The area was also used as the summer grazing area for the reindeer herding Sami. Today Manndalen is a centre for the revitalisation of Sea Sami culture and language and now there is a Sami department in the kindergarten and a Sami language centre. The Riddu Riđđu festival is an annual Sami music and culture festival that takes place here.

    The town was destroyed during World War II, and the town was rebuilt with temporary houses. At Sandeng Cemetery near Løkvell is the urn of Jan Baalsrud, a famous World War II resistance hero. He became fond of Manndalen after all the help he received in his escape from the Germans on the way to Sweden. Many locals were active in hiding him, giving him good, and getting him across the border into Sweden.  

    Storfjord

    Storfjord is a municipality in the Troms County of Northern Norway. The name comes from the Storfjorden that runs through the area, while the coat-of-arms shows three poppies that are rotated around a meeting point which represents the meeting point of the three countries Norway, Sweden, and Finland.

    The first peoples to live here were the Sami people. In the 19th century settlers from Finland and Southern Norway began to establish themselves. Sami culture has survived in parts of the municipality. In the 19th century the Laestadianism religious movement obtained a strong position, and Skibotn is still a stronghold for this movement.

    The landscape of Storfjord is characterised by alpine mountains, and the highest mountain is Vassdalsfjellet (1587m), while the most ‘famous’ mountain is Otertind.

    Skibotn

    Skibotn is a small village with a population of 538 located at the end of the Lyngen fjord and close to Kilpisjarvi in Finland. The residents of the village are either descendants of the Sami and Kven people or the Norwegian immigrants who came in the 19th century.

    Historically, Skibotn was a meeting point and market for the different ethnic groups in the area. The market still takes place today and is named ‘Skibotn markedsplass’ if you want to visit.

    Skibotn is the place in Norway that has registered the clearest days and it is one of the driest places in Norway. Because of the lack of clouds, there is an astrophysical observatory located in Skibotn.

    Kilpisjarvi

    In Skibotn you’ll pass the E8, which takes you into Finland and the town of Kilpisjarvi. Kilpisjarvi is one of the best places to see the northern lights because of its clear skies. We cover Kilpisjarvi and that drive in a separate article. 

    Balsfjord Municipality

    Balsfjord is a municipality in the Troms County of Northern Norway. The coat-of-arms depicts a yellow plough on a red background, symbolising the importance of agriculture in the municipality. The plough also symbolises that the municipality is at the northernmost border on which grain can be grown in Norway. No other area in Troms has so much cultivated land. Agriculture is mostly based on milk and meat production and Balsfjord has the highest number of cattle, sheep, and goats among the municipalities in Troms. One of the dairies is the country’s largest goat cheese producer.

    The Sami people were the first people to inhabit the area, but around 1800 new settlers came from Finland and Southern Norway. Today, very few traces of Sami culture survive. From the 18th until the 20th century, trappers from Balsfjord were active in the Arctic, hunting in the areas around Greenland and Svalbard.

    The municipality was home to a religious group of ‘mindekirken’ or ‘freechurch dissenters’ who split from the state church in Tromsø. They were led by a seminary student, Johannes Andreas Johannessen and they established their own church, the Free Apostolic Christian Church, in Balsfjord. Bomstad and his followers were said to have protested against the Tromsø state church minister and Troms Bishop’s religious rulings, eventually leading to a riot in Tromsø. The state church members yelled at Bomstad and his dissenters to “go back to Kautokieno!”. In 1862, Bomstad led a group of colonists to America, arriving into Chicago. After that they went to the area of St. Peter, Minnesota, where they remained. Bomstad left St. Peter and became the founding father of Lake Lillian in Minnesota. After staking his original claim, Bomstad and the rest of the colonists arrived at Lake Lillian and built dugout shelters to live. Eventually they all had log cabins to live in.

    Close to Balsfjord Church are 6000-year-old rock carvings at Tennes.

    Tromsø Municipality

    Tromsø Municipality is a major centre in Northern Norway. The municipality is milder than most settlements on the same latitude dur to the effect of the westerlies reaching this far north as well as the North Atlantic Drift, a branch of the Guld Stream. The population of the entire municipality is around 71,000. A detailed overview of the city of Tromsø can be found on our travel guide. 

    Tromsø

    The final stop is in Tromsø, the largest city in Northern Norway. You can find a detailed guide to Tromsø on our travel guide page. 

    Where to Go From Here

    From Tromsø you can continue your drive south to Narvik or you can head into Finland towards Kilpisjarvi. 

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Drive it Yourself: Honningsvåg to Hammerfest

    Drive it Yourself: Honningsvåg to Hammerfest

    In this article...

    Downloadable Version of This Guide

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

    Online Guide

    Downloadable Guide

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    The drive: Honningsvåg to Hammerfest

    Honningsvåg

    This drive begins in Honningsvåg, the northernmost city in the world. You can find a detailed overview to Honningsvåg via the link below. 

    North Cape Tunnel

    Tunnel

    North Cape Tunnel is an underwater road tunnel that runs between the island of Magerøya and the Norwegian mainland. The total length of the tunnel is 6.8km and it goes 212 metres below sea level. The tunnel opened in 1999, replacing a ferry that used to operate in roughly the same spot.

    The tunnel has cold gates at each end that keep the cold out in the winter. This is done to prevent ice formation in the rock walls, and the gates open automatically when a car is approaching. The gates remain open in the summer.  

    Kåfjord

    Fjord

    Kåfjord is a fjord and small village located just after the tunnel. This is where the ferry used to leave before the tunnel was completed.

    Repvåg

    Village

    Repvåg is a tiny fishing village located on the side of the highway. Historically it was an important fishing and trading place in Finnmark, especially during the Pomor Trade with Russia. Several settlements from the Stone Age have been found here. Today the village only has around 14 residents.

    There is a large beach outside the village called Stranda, which used to have a large coastal Sami population and is the last area in the municipality that is still characterised by some coastal Sami culture. Today only some of the residents speak a Sami language. The beach has a number of important cultural monuments, hunting pits, graves and tufts.

    Hammerfest

    On the right you will pass the right-turn that will take you to the Havøysund Tourist Road, one of Norway’s 18 national tourist roads. That drive has been covered in a separate article, which you can view below. 

    Hammerfest Municipality

    Hammerfest is a large municipality in Northern Norway. The main town is Hammerfest, which is located off the mainland on the island Kvaløya. The coat-of-arms depicts a polar bear, which was chosen as the symbol for fishing in the polar seas in Northern Norway.

    Skaidi

    Village

    Skaidi is a small village and major traffic hub in Northern Norway. In the 1940s, the Skaidi Mountain Lodge and Station was built. Today it’s an important point to stop if you need a rest on the long road journeys.

    Here you’ll find a petrol station, various electric car charging stations, a cafe and a hotel. 

    Repparfjorden

    Fjord

    Repparfjorden is a fjord located southeast of the island Kvaløya, where Hammerfest is. The fjord is quite shallow with an average depth of 40-60 metres and a maximum depth of 123 metres. There are strong currents at the bottom of the fjord.

    Mining used to take place in this area for copper. The deposits were found around the year 1900 and between 1972 and 1978 Folldal Verk (the mine near Røros) ran the operations. More mining is planned in the area, but it is meeting protests by the local community.

    Kvalsund

    Village

    Kvalsund is a small village and former municipality in Finnmark. It was its own municipality until 2020, when it was merged with Hammerfest. The name directly translates to the whale strait, refering to the whaling that used to take place in the area. The name of the island Kvaløya means ‘whale island’.

    The village used to be known as “Finnbyen”, referring to the Coastal Sami settlement in the area. Until a few hundred years ago, the Coast Sami culture was completely dominant in Kvalsund. Norwegian and Kven immigration soon made the area multicultural, and during the ‘Norwegianisation’ process of the late 19th/early 20th century, most of the culture was lost. One of the only villages to still have the Coastal Sami culture is Kokelv.

    Kvalsund is one of the areas in Finnmark county with the most cabins that are especially used by people from Hammerfest. There is good salmon fishing in the fjord and there are nice hiking trails in the area.

    Kvalsund Bridge

    Bridge

    The Kvalsund Bridge is a suspension bridge over the Kvalsundet strait, linking the mainland to the island of Kvaløya. The bridge is 741 metres (2,431 ft) long and has 11 spans. It is the northernmost suspension bridge in the world.

    Rypefjord

    Village

    Rypefjord is a village just outside Hammerfest. The village is considered more of a suburb of Hammerfest because of its proximity to the city. You’ll find a lot of industry here related to the LNG plant just off Hammerfest but also the fishing industry.

    Hammerfest

    We have made it to the city of Hammerfest! Hammerfest is the northernmost city in the world with a population over 10,000 people. The town has an ice-free harbour and is regarded as one of the oldest cities in Northern Norway (along with Vardø). People have been living and trading here for hundreds of years. Hammerfest rose to prominence in the 18th and 19th centuries due to its proximity to the Arctic hunting areas.

    On The Hidden North you’ll find a travel guide for Hammerfest including a detailed historic overview.

    Where to Go From Here

    From Hammerfest you can travel on to Alta or further to the Lyngen Alps, as we did. 

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Drive it Yourself: Hammerfest to the Lyngen Alps

    Drive it Yourself: Hammerfest to the Lyngen Alps

    In this article...

    Downloadable Version of This Guide

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

    Online Guide

    Downloadable Guide

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    The Drive: Hammerfest to the Lyngen Alps

    Hammerfest

    This drive begins in Hammerfest, the northernmost city in the world. You can find a detailed overview to Honningsvåg via the link below. 

    Rypefjord

    Village

    Rypefjord is a village just outside Hammerfest. The village is considered more of a suburb of Hammerfest because of its proximity to the city. You’ll find a lot of industry here related to the LNG plant just off Hammerfest but also the fishing industry.

    Kvalsund Bridge

    Bridge

    The Kvalsund Bridge is a suspension bridge over the Kvalsundet strait, linking the mainland to the island of Kvaløya. The bridge is 741 metres (2,431 ft) long and has 11 spans. It is the northernmost suspension bridge in the world.

    Kvalsund

    Village

    Kvalsund is a small village and former municipality in Finnmark. It was its own municipality until 2020, when it was merged with Hammerfest. The name directly translates to the whale strait, refering to the whaling that used to take place in the area. The name of the island Kvaløya means ‘whale island’.

    The village used to be known as “Finnbyen”, referring to the Coastal Sami settlement in the area. Until a few hundred years ago, the Coast Sami culture was completely dominant in Kvalsund. Norwegian and Kven immigration soon made the area multicultural, and during the ‘Norwegianisation’ process of the late 19th/early 20th century, most of the culture was lost. One of the only villages to still have the Coastal Sami culture is Kokelv.

    Kvalsund is one of the areas in Finnmark county with the most cabins that are especially used by people from Hammerfest. There is good salmon fishing in the fjord and there are nice hiking trails in the area.

    Repparfjorden

    Fjord

    Repparfjorden is a fjord located southeast of the island Kvaløya, where Hammerfest is. The fjord is quite shallow with an average depth of 40-60 metres and a maximum depth of 123 metres. There are strong currents at the bottom of the fjord.

    Mining used to take place in this area for copper. The deposits were found around the year 1900 and between 1972 and 1978 Folldal Verk (the mine near Røros) ran the operations. More mining is planned in the area, but it is meeting protests by the local community.

    Skaidi

    Village

    Skaidi is a small village and major traffic hub in Northern Norway. In the 1940s, the Skaidi Mountain Lodge and Station was built. Today it’s an important point to stop if you need a rest on the long road journeys.

    Here you’ll find a petrol station, various electric car charging stations, a cafe and a hotel. 

    Savesalta

    Alpine Ski Resort

    Sarvesalta is an alpine ski resort overlooking the Altafjord and it is the major ski resort in the area. One of the popular places to stay is the Bjørnfjell Mountain Lodge, which focuses a lot on Norwegian farming and cabin culture.

    Alta Municipality

    Alta is the most populated municipality in Finnmark county, and its population has increased by 11.3% over the last decade. The coat-of-arms represent a white arrow point on a blue background, and it is derived from the findings of quartzite arrow points dating back to the late Stone Age found in the area. The quartzite was mined in the area and tools were made from it all over Northern Norway.

    Alta is most famous for its rock carvings, which are on the UNESCO World Heritage list. The carvings date from 4,200 BC to 500BC and were likely made by the Komsa culture, an early people in Northern Norway. These are Northern Europe’s largest number of petroglyphs and rock paintings made by a hunter-gatherer population.

    Alta is first mentioned in written sources around 1500, when it was inhabited by a couple hundred Sami people. The area was a common tax country for Denmark-Norway, Sweden, and Russia. Towards the end of the 16th century there were conflicts between Sweden and Denmark over the right to tax salmon fishing in the river. In 1613, it was decided that the area of Alta belonged to Denmark-Norway, and by this time Norwegians were settling along the Altafjord.

    Around 1700, the Kven population began to settle in the area. The Kven people came from Finland and were escaping war and famine. The Kvens brought with them grain cultivation and improved the river fishing methods. In 1826, copper mines were established, and miners came from Finland, Sweden and southern Norway to take part. Several of the miners later travelled onto the United States, but many stayed and combined farming with mining.

    During World War II, the German battleship Tirpitz was kept hidden in the Altafjord for 18 months. It was so badly damaged that it had to leave the fjord. It was towed to Tromsø, where it was eventually sunk by Allied forces. The town of Alta was destroyed by the Germans in 1944 and the only building that was not burned was Alta church.

    The main industries in Alta include trading, education, and public service. The town of Alta is known for its slate industry. Alta is also the starting point for the Finnmarksløpet, the longest dog sled race in Europe.

    Alta is the second northernmost city in the world and a good place to spend some time. I’ve written a detailed travel guide to Alta, which you’ll see below.

    Alta

    The E6 runs through the city of Alta. You can choose to spend the night here or stop at the UNESCO World Heritage Site where the rock carvings are. You can also drive straight through 🙂

    A detailed travel guide to Alta can be found below. 

    Kåfjorden

    Fjord

    Kåfjorden is an 8km (5 mi) long branch of the Altafjord. The fjord was used as the anchorage for the German battleship Tirpitz for much of World War II.

    Talvik

    Village

    Talvik is a small village on the western short of the Altafjord. It has been a trading centre since the 1800s and is the home of Talvik Church from 1883.

    Langfjordbotn

    Village

    Langfjordbotn is a small village located at the innermost point of the Langfjorden. The population is around 110 and the village is known for its excellent nature and in particular good conditions for growing potatoes and berries. There are five dairy farms, a school and community centre here. In summer people come to go hiking, while in winter people come to go skiing, snowmobile driving and dog sled racing.

    Kvænangen Municipality

    Kvænangen is a small but scenic municipality located in Finnmark. The municipality is located around the Kvænangen Fjord and over the Kvænangsfjellet Mountain Pass. The first part of the name refers to the Kven population that resided in the municipality, while the second part of the name comes from the Old Norse word angr meaning ‘fjord’. The population here was originally Sami, but the Kven people settled here about 300 years ago. Archaeological finds indicate people have lived here for 10,000 years.

    When the Kvens came in the 18th century, they took part in fishing, hunting and agriculture. Over time, the fisheries became an important industry and dried fish was exported to southern Norway and the rest of Europe. This attracted Norwegians, who gradually settled in the area. Today fish farming and tourism are the fastest growing industries.

    Alteidet

    Village

    Alteidet is a small coastal village located along the Lille Altafjord. The population is around 130 people and historically it was a trading post. Unfortunately the village was destroyed during World War II and wasn’t really rebuilt.

    Badderen

    Village

    Badderen is a small village with a population of around 180. Mining took place in this area throughout the 20th century; the mines were operated by the Alten Copper Works, led by the Englishman John Rice Crow. The old trading centre of Badderen became the centre for the mining operations, and an ore quay was established here.

    Sørstraumen

    Tidal Current

    Sørstraumen is the second-strongest current in Northern Europe, only beaten by Saltstraumen. We cross the bridge over the current while on the E6.

    Kvænangsfjellet

    Mountain range

    We now cross the Kvænangsfjellet mountain range. The E6 highway crosses the mountains over the mountain pass, which can close in winter in the case of snowstorms. The highest point of the road is 402m (1,319ft) and this is exposed to bad weather.

    The Kvænangsfjellet mountain area is mainly used by the Sami reindeer herders in the summer.

    Gildetun Inn

    Accommodation

    The inn on the side of the road is a well-known place for visitors to stay. It offers accommodation and meals during the tourist reason and has a nice vantage point. 7

    Nordreisa Municipality

    consists of the Reisadalen valley surrounded by mountains and high plateaus. The coat-of-arms depicts two white salmon because the Reisaelva River is one of the country’s best salmon rivers. The Reisa National Park is located in the southern part of the municipality.

    Most of the people who settled here were the Kven people from Finland, who came over in the 18th century escaping famine and war. Some inhabitants have Sami or Norwegian backgrounds.

    Most of the municipality was destroyed by retreating German troops.

    Storslett

    Village

    Storslett is the main centre for the municipality of Nordreisa. It has a small airport, schools and a local church. The town was destroyed during World War II in 1944. The village area has seen strong growth since the war.

    Rotsund

    Village

    Rotsund is a small village located along the Rotsundet strait. We are now in the northern Lyngen region, and the mountains are visible in the distance.

    Lyngen

    Mountain range

    The Lyngen Alps are a scenic mountain range that stretch 90km (56 mi) along the Lyngen Peninsula, with the Lyngen fjord to the east and the Ullsfjorden to the west.

    The mountains are popular among extreme skiers, with the highest summit being 1,833m (6,014ft) tall. The mountains are also popular with climbers.

    Where to Go From Here

    After Lyngen we continued on to Tromsø.

    This drive is part of the multi-day series “From Tromsø to North Cape and back again”. You can view the entire drive via the link below. 

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!