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    Everything You Need to Know When Visiting Nidaros Cathedral

    Everything You Need to Know About Nidaros Cathedral

    Nidaros Cathedral (“Nidarosdomen” in Norwegian) is one of Norway’s most iconic and historically significant landmarks. It serves as a magnificent example of Gothic and Romanesque architecture and is important in Norwegian culture, religion and history.

    It’s practically impossible to visit Trondheim without paying a visit to Nidaros Cathedral. But what do you actually see there? Well, I have been here so many times and have found something new about the cathedral every time. So, in this guide, I’ve put together an overview of the cathedral plus what you can see if you go inside.

    A more detailed overview will be available in my Hurtigruten book, coming in May 2025. 

    In this article...

    Norway's Coastal Ferry

    Trondheim is a port of call of Norway’s coastal ferry. Find my guide for the coastal ferry by clicking the link below. 

    Norway's Coastal Ferry
    Trondheim Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Why is Nidaros Cathedral So Important?

    In short, Nidaros Cathedral is so important as it is the burial church of Norway’s patron Saint Olav. The cathedral is also where the royal family are coronated.

    Nidaros Cathedral is a cathedral in a European context, though in size it cannot compare to the largest and most magnificent cathedrals in Europe. Of the medieval bishoprics in the Norwegian ecclesiastical province, only Stavanger Cathedral and the Magnus Cathedral on the Orkney Islands have survived. The cathedral in Bergen has almost completely disappeared, and the cathedrals in Oslo and Hamar are in ruins. Nidaros Cathedral is also the only church in Norway that has a fully developed Gothic basilica form.

    Nidaros Cathedral is Europe’s northernmost medieval cathedral.

    Standing outside Nidaros Cathedral in 2021

    Historic Overview of Nidaros Cathedral

    Christianity & St. Olav

    Christianity came to Norway in the 9th and 10th centuries, arriving from the south (via Denmark) and from the British Isles. The influence from the British Isles is particularly important, and the first Norwegian kings were baptised in England.

    Even though Norway was influenced by Christianity for a few centuries throughout the Viking period, it wasn’t until Olav Haraldsson that Christianity became permanent. Also, Olav Haraldsson became St Olav – whose casket was placed at Nidaros Cathedral. 

    Olav Haraldsson was born in 995 and at the age of 12 set off to England on a Viking raid. During his time in England, he discovered Christianity and was baptised in 1014. He then returned to Norway with a mission: convert the Norwegians. He crowned himself King and then travelled around the country forcing Christianity on the pagans, or he threatened them with death. Eventually his strict reign created enemies, and he was forced to flee Norway in 1028. He came back a year later in an attempt to retake the throne, but at Stiklestad (a region north of Trondheim), his opponents lay in waiting with a huge army. After an intense battle, on the 29th of July 1030, Olav was killed. 

    His body was transferred to Trondheim and buried in a sandbank. It is believed to have been roughly where Nidaros Cathedral’s high altar is today.

    Rumours quickly spread that miracles had occurred by the kings body, and that Olav was holy. Around one year after his burial, the coffin was removed and opened. The kings body appeared unchanged as if he had just died, and his hair and nails had grown. 

    Olav was proclaimed a saint and his coffin was placed on the high altar at St. Clements Church. A wooden chapel was built on the place where he had been buried, and a spring arose from there that had healing properties. Countless miracles were happening and the casked of St. Olav became an important pilgrimage site. 

    Founding & Construction of Nidaros Cathedral

    As the casket of St. Olav continued to develop as an important pilgrimage site, it was decided to build a better church. Around 1070, King Olav Kyrre had a larger Christian church built. It was made of stone and completed around 1090. Olav’s coffin with the body inside stood on the high altar. 

    However, it wasn’t enough and by 1152 there were plans to expand the church into a large cathedral. The work proceeded quickly, and the southern transept was consecrated by Archbishop Øystein Erlendsson in 1161. The transept still has its Romanesque features today. 

    After a brief period of exile, Archbishop Øystein returned from England in 1183 and had the building style of Nidaros Cathedral changed to Gothic. The cathedral was completed around 1300 and this is when it got the layout we see today. The transept, Chapter House, and large parts of the octagon are the work of Archbishop Øystein. 

    Church-spiration?

    There are many churches that served as a role model for Nidaros Cathedral. Strong influence can be seen from Lincoln Cathedral (click here for a model of Lincoln Cathedral – notice the similarity?) and the choir of Canterbury Cathedral (click here for a picture). However, there’s also inspiration from French churches, such as Notre Dame in Paris. 

    Pilgrim sign

    Worshipping St. Olav & Pilgrimage

    The church and St. Olav’s grave became an important pilgrimage destination for the whole of Europe. It was Olav’s status as a saint that made pilgrims flock to Nidaros Cathedral.

    In the Middle Ages, the cathedral was the centre of the Catholic religion in Norway. The Archbishops Court, which was the Archbishops residence, was built immediately south of the cathedral.

    The Fires & Restoration Work

    Soon after the cathedral was completed, it burned in the first major fire in 1328. The fire heavily damaged the cathedral, with most of the columns and crockets having to be replaced. A lot of the interior and exterior woodwork had been destroyed, along with the bells, stone arches, stone columns, and many valuable items. 

    The church was restored after the fire, and today the only visible remains of the reconstruction are the chancel arch walls and part of the arcades in the octagons central space. The style shows that English architecture was still a major influence. 

    Restoration work was completed in 1349, the same year the Black Death to Norway. All the priests along with Archbishop Arne Vade died, as well as a large part of Trondheim’s population. For the next 80 years, little is known of what was done to the cathedral.

    In 1432, the tower was struck by lightning and all interior and exterior woodwork caught fire and was destroyed. None of the work from this restoration is visible today. 

    Throughout the 15th century there was political instability, so little was done to the cathedral. In 1510, Erik Walkendorf was appointed as the new archbishop, and he set out restoring the cathedral. He restored the octagon and also ensured the Olav Shrine was made grander. 

    However, these efforts were short lived. In 1531, a fire broke out in Trondheim and the cathedral (with the city) burned to the ground. The damage was extensive and a restoration work quickly began. In the choir, the middle aisle walls were demolished and rebuilt with massive plain walls. However, work had to stop as the Reformation had begun. 

    The Reformation & Abandoning the Cathedral

    In 1536, the Danish King Christian III won a battle and adopted Martin Luther’s teachings. Catholicism in Denmark and Norway was abolished, and bishops were arrested. The last Catholic Archbishop in Trondheim, Olav Engelbrektsson, fled the country on the 1st of April 1537. The cathedral’s treasures and shrine were plundered by the king’s soldiers and the metal was melted down into coins. The Olav Shrine was removed, the pilgrims were no more, and the cathedral looked like an empty shell.

    In 1564, the cathedral was plundered by Swedish soldiers, who stripped it of its remaining valuables. 

    After the Reformation, the cathedral became a parish church for Trondheim and was the main centre of the Lutheran religion. 

    At the beginning of the 17th century, the cathedral was in poor condition. It was partly restored in a Baroque style, which became popular in Trondheim. From 1625, private individuals were allowed to purchase burial sites within the cathedral, and the city’s wealthiest families saw it as a way to have their status acknowledged. Crypts were built beneath the floors, and over the next 200 years, hundreds of coffins were placed around Nidaros Cathedral. 

    Later Fires

    During the town fire of 1708, the cathedral burned (except for the stone walls). The church was struck by lightning in 1719 and sat in ruins with decaying walls and fears that the cathedral may collapse. The walls were patched up and whitewashed to conceal their decay. The marble columns had disappeared and were replaced by white-painted wooden columns. 

    It has been said that the cathedral’s and country’s history reflect each other: when the country had its period of greatness, the cathedral is at is most magnificent. When the country was in decline and decay, so was the cathedral. 

    Restoration

    In 1814 Norway became a separate state, though in union with Sweden. Interest in the country’s old, historic monuments began. This was particularly the case with Nidaros Cathedral, which had been included in Norway’s Constitution in 1814 as the coronation church for the king. 

    In 1833, a stone fell from the vault above the altar. This led to the first examination of the cathedral by an architect. In the following years, several initiatives were taken regarding the restoration of the cathedral. It was decided that the cathedral should go back to its medieval appearance.

    A major restoration of the cathedral began in 1869, led by architect H.E. Schirmer. However, there was a lot of criticism towards him as he was taking too many creative liberties, so he was replaced with Christian Christie in 1872. 

    Almost 90 men worked on the restoration work including 50 stonemasons. The Western Front, which was basically in ruins, was completed in 1965. It was not until 2001 that restoration work was officially finished, though the cathedral is under constant maintenance to replace bad stone and strengthen weak points. 

    Visiting the Cathedral

    It costs money to go inside the cathedral, which can be bought from the visitor centre. Inside, you are allowed to take photos (but no flash). 

    There are no information signs around the cathedral, so I recommend picking up a guide book at the visitor centre. My guide below is a summary of what you can see. 

    The Western Front

    Before we even enter, let’s discuss the Western Front. It’s believed to have been inspired by English cathedrals. After the fire of 1531, the Western Front was left in ruins and most of what you see today is from the 19th century restoration. 

    Click here to see a photo of what the Western Front looked like when restoration started. 

    The Western Front has 76 sculptures and only five were preserved at the time of restoration (they are now in the Archbishops Residence Museum). The way it’s designed is that it is a tree, in which the central trunk (or axis) is Christ, with representations of his story. The rows of statues spread out like a tree. In the lowest row are the apostles and champions of Christianity, including those in Norway. In the second row, there are scenes from the Old and New Testaments with virtues. At the end of the row, there are saints from the archdiocese of Nidaros, including St. Olav & Archbishop Øystein. The third and uppermost row contains 16 large, seated statues. There are Christs ancestors in the form of Old Testament Kings of Israel. Furthest out sit five prophets and patriarchs. 

    Many of the sculptures are portraits of famous people in the sculptors time. For example, St Klemens is a portrait of the poet Olav Aukrust. Bishop Sigurd has three severed heads on a platter, and they feature the three architects of Nidaros Cathedral’s restoration. The bronze sculpture at the very top, by Kristofer Leirdal, bear’s Bob Dylan’s facial features. 

    There is a Wiki dedicated to what all the sculptures are, so I won’t go into it here. You can click here to see the overview of all the sculptures. 

    The Nave

    You enter the cathedral into the nave. The nave is one of the ‘newer’ parts of the cathedral, as construction here begun in 1248 under Archbishop Sigurd Eindridesson. The style is in High Gothic and has a clear English influence. For example, the angel reliefs on the archways may refer to the ‘angel choir’ in Lincoln Cathedral (click here for a photo) and Westminster Abbey. Most of the reliefs have been damaged or destroyed. The best preserved one, which depicts the archangel Michael in battle with the devil, is on display at the Archbishops Residence Museum. 

    After the fire of 1531, the nave was left a roofless ruin and the interior began to collapse. During the 18th century, the vaults in the nave collapsed. When restoration began, most of the nave had gone. The new reliefs in the nave were made by Gustav Vigeland (yes, that Gustav Vigeland) and Wilhelm Rasmussen between 1900 and 1910. 

    Romanesque details on the north transept

    North Transept

    The transept in the northern side (as you’re walking down towards the octagon, it’s on your left) is known as the lecture hall and was completed around 1130-1150. It has the name because the Cathedral School was located here at one period, perhaps in the Middle Ages.

    The northern portal is in the Anglo Norman style, the version of Romanesque architecture that was developed in Normandy and England in the 11th century. The portal has zigzag borders, folding capitals, and lion masks. It’s one of the best places in the cathedral to see the Romanesque architecture. 

    Here you’ll find a memorial for the women who lost their lives during World War II. There’s also a memorial for all the Norwegian kings that were likely buried at Nidaros Cathedral. 

    South Transept

    The chapel on the southern side is the Johanneskapellet (John the Baptist Chapel). An inscription shows that it was consecrated by Archbishop Øystein in 1161 – this is the only inscription found in the cathedral with a year that can be used for dating. 

    The altar is made in Italian marble by the sculptor Harald Wårvik in 1985. The paintings on the two wall cabinets were made in 2006 and take themes from the story of John the Baptist. On the floor is a memorial plate for Thomas Angell and his family (Angell was a very wealthy man from Trondheim who left his fortune to the city after his death). 

    On the southern side is a Sami altar. The altar was designed by Folke Fjallstrom and is made of oiled birch and adorned with Sami ornamentation. 

    You can also see a standard here – a royal flag with the Norwegian coat of arms. This flag flew on the HMS Norfolk, the British ship that carried King Haakon VII home to Norway from England on the 7th of June 1945 after Norway had been liberated. 

    There is also a British flag hanging here – this flag flew on the ship HMS Mackay when it arrived in Trondheim on the 16th of May 1945 to assist in the liberation; it was the first allied ship to assist in the liberation of Norway. 

    The Choir

    You are now entering the older part of the cathedral. The choir was built in two periods – the first from 1140 until 1180 and the second around the year 1200. The choir is in the Gothic style and shows a lot of similarity to Lincoln Cathedral (click here for a photo of Lincoln Cathedral’s nave). 

    The side aisles were used for processions and for those who wanted to visit the octagon and the Olav Shrine so the clergy wouldn’t be disturbed. 

    After the fire in 1531, the walls either collapsed or were in such a bad state that they had to be demolished. New, thicker middle aisle walls were built. These walls were demolished in the 1880s, revealing large parts of the original 13th century middle aisle walls that were used as filling in the walls and thus survived. Parts of the original stones were used in the restoration of the middle aisle. 

    Here you can see the soapstone font, which is a gift from 1905. It is a reconstruction of the remains of a font or fountain that were uncovered during the renovation. The font was made by Gustav Vigeland. 

    The Chapter House

    The Chapter House is a freestanding chapel on the northern side of the choir. It was completed around the 1160s and was probably used to house relics and valuable items.

    The style here is different to the transept. There are rich images here, such as water-lily leaves. This is commonly found in the monasteries of Cistercian monks. The Chapter House has no sculptures, which is also typical of Cistercian monasteries. Here you’ll find both Romanesque and Gothic arches – the first examples in Norway of such a style. The details suggest inspiration from York Cathedral, or the stonemasons came from there. 

    The only medieval furniture that has survived can be found here. It is a small chest where the canons chair robes were kept. On one side has been painted “for my age, I am honoured. Anno 1304”. 

    Stonemasons mark

    The Octagon

    This is the oldest and most important part of the cathedral. It’s believed the octagon was the idea of Archbishop Øystein. At Canterbury Cathedral, a martyrdom for Thomas Becket was under construction (click here for more information), and it may have given inspiration to the Nidaros Cathedral octagon. It may have also been inspired by the structure around Jesus’ tomb in the Church of the Holy Sepulcher in Jerusalem. 

    The columns and crockets around the octagon are unique and can only be found in two places in Europe – at Nidaros Cathedral and at Lincoln Cathedral (click here). On the octagon’s exterior are delicate flying buttresses which extend from the outer wall to the wall of the central space, in order to take the weight of the vaulting. This is an important element in Gothic architecture and the first such example to be found in Scandinavia.

    The walls here are richly decorated with stonemasonry, more than any other building in Norway. They combine elements of Romanesque architecture with newer elements.

    Inside the octagon is a blind arcade, i.e. a decorative archway with pointed arches and lace decoration. The purpose of the design is to create a passage for the pilgrims who would come to see Olav’s casket. 

    On the walls of the octagon you’ll find carvings and signatures made by both the stone masons and pilgrims waiting in line.

    Here you find the Olavsantensalet, which was created in Norway in the early 14th century. 

    The High Altar in the octagon was made in 1883. The shape is supposed to be reminiscent of the Olav Shrine from the Middle Ages. 

    This is also where the healing spring is supposed to have come from. You’ll find it tucked away in a corner, with people leaving coins here. 

    The Glass Windows

    It’s worth also adding the glass windows, as they are quite distinctive. 

    There were no windows remaining when the restoration work began in the 19th century. They are made by Gabriel Kielland and date back to the early 20th century. The windows are inspired by French cathedrals, especially Chartres Cathedral. You’ll notice they are quite dark; this is because Kielland travelled through France and assumed the windows in France were purposely dark. However, the French had not cleaned the windows! That’s why the windows in the cathedral are so dark. 

    It’s not known if the original Nidaros Cathedral had a rose window, and there was an intense debate during restoration if this cathedral should get one. 

    The Organs

    Lastly, Nidaros Cathedral has two pipe organs. The oldest (in the north transept) was built by German organ builder Johann Joachim Wagner in 1738-1739. For the 900th anniversary of the Battle of Stiklestad in 1930, a new large organ was ordered from Steinmeyer. 

    Practical Information

    Hopefully by now I’ve convinced you that Nidaros Cathedral is worth visiting! Here’s all the practical information you need to know. 

    Local Name

    Nidarosdomen

    Admission & Prices

    Tickets into the cathedral cost 120 NOK, though they do offer discounts for students and senior citizens. It’s also possible to buy a combination ticket so you can also visit the Archbishops Residence.

    See up-to-date prices here: https://www.nidarosdomen.no/#ticket

    Opening Hours

    The cathedral is typically open from 9am until 2pm. Keep in mind church service and special events.

    I highly recommend looking at their website for the most up-to-date information: https://www.nidarosdomen.no/#ticket

    Facilities

    In the visitor centre you’ll find a cafe, gift shop and restrooms. The gift shop is excellent and has a wide selection of both cathedral-themed and Trondheim-themed souvenirs. 

    Guided Tours

    Public guided tours are available in the summer months, or you can book a private tour year-round.

    Learn more about guided tours here: https://www.nidarosdomen.no/en/omvisninger

    Church Events

    If you want to attend a concert or service, I recommend browsing their calendar. Unfortunately, the calendar only seems to be available in Norwegian. Still, it’s possible to make out what is happening: https://www.nidarosdomen.no/kalender?items=20

    Coastal Ferry

    I highly recommend booking the excursions on board the ferry that include a guided tour inside the cathedral. If you are coming independently, you need to be sure you can walk to the cathedral within 45 minutes in order to five yourself enough time to enter and look around. 

    Final Thoughts on Nidaros Cathedral

    Nidaros Cathedral is a must-see if you are in Trondheim, or even if you are visiting Norway in general. Despite a troubled history, there’s no doubt Nidaros Cathedral has survived as one of the most impressive buildings in Norway, and not something you expect to see this far north. I love the detailed history of the cathedral, the significance of each individual stone, and how the cathedral reflects Norway’s past.

    I hope you enjoyed this guide to Nidaros Cathedral!

    Trondheim Travel Guide

    Be sure to check out my Trondheim travel guide! Here you can find all my recommendations of things to do and see, plus practical information for visiting the beautiful historic city. 

  • Folldal, National Highways, Road-trips, Røros, Trondheim

    Drive it Yourself: Trondheim to Røros on the Fv30

    Drive it Yourself: Trondheim to Røros on the Fv30

    The Fv30 is a short but scenic highway that travels from near Trondheim across to the eastern part of Norway and the UNESCO World Heritage site of Røros. Along the way, you’ll pass charming agricultural villages and some of the historic mines.

    In this article...

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

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    Download this guide to have it as a PDF ready to go for your road-trip!

    All downloadable guides come with an interactive Google Map for easier navigation. 

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    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Information about facilities along the way

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the region & towns
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Facilities including supermarkets, toilets, petrol, hotels, cafes, restaurants with addresses.
    • Interactive Google Map for easier navigation

    The drive: Trondheim to Røros

    Trondheim

    This drive begins in Trondheim, Norway’s third-largest city. 

    Trondheim Travel Guide

    Støren

    Town

    Støren is the administrative centre of the municipality and has a population of around 2,300 people. The village was built up in the mid-19th century and saw growth when the Dovrebanen railway station was constructed.

    In the village you can see Støren Church (address Kjørkvollveien 2, 7290 Støren), a historic octagonal church from 1817. The earliest mention of a church here was in 1432, but the church was not new that year. The first church was likely a stave church from the 12th century. The church you see today is the third church to be on the site.

    You will be following the Rørosbanen train line, so almost every village will have a train station.

    This drive is pretty remote with not too many places to stop at, but it is still a nice drive and Røros is worth it!

    Gaula

    River

    You are following the Gaula river, a 153km long river that runs through central Norway. The Gaula is regarded as one of the top five salmon fishing rivers in Norway.

    Rognes

    Village

    Rognes is a small village with a population of 200. The main industry here is agriculture, but there used to be a shoe factory and mechanical workshops here. One of the farms in the village, Bones Gård, is mentioned in the Old Norse sagas.

    Singsås

    Village

    Singsås is a small village with a population of around 1000. The village is an agricultural village, though some forestry also takes place. Singsås church is from 1884, but the first church on the site is likely from the 13th century. A crucifix in the current church has been dated to 1280, and it’s believed it came from the original church. The original church was likely a stave church but was located about 5km northeast of the town.

    Holtålen Municipality

    Holtålen municipality is a mostly remote municipality with large mountain areas and part of the Forollhogna National Park. The Kjøli mine is located in the municipality and is Northern Europe’s deepest mine.

    The coat-of-arms shows a ptarmigan, which was chosen to reflect the importance of hunting in the municipality.

    Holtålen

    Village

    Haltdalen is a small village located in the upper part of the Gauldalen valley, one of Norway’s longest valley. The Haltdalen Stave Church is from here but is now in an open-air museum in Trondheim. The stave church is from 1170 and is the only stave church of the East Scandinavian style that has been preserved, making it one of the oldest wooden buildings in Norway. The church was replaced in 1704 and then again in 1881 with the current church. The stave church managed to survive all of this and was handed over to Trondheim in 1882.

    Gammelgården is Haltdalen’s first vicarage and was built at the beginning of the 18th century. Today the main building and two storehouses from the 1750s remain.

    Renbygda

    Village

    Renbygda is the administrative centre of Holtålen municipality. In the village is Ålen Church, which replaced a stave church from the Middle Ages. Parts of Ålen Stave Church were used to build Haltdalen Stave Church, for example the west portal and west wall in Haltdalen stave church comes from Ålesn stave church. The current church is from 1881. There are two church bells in the church, the oldest one being from 1736.

    Røros Municipality

    Røros municipality is named after the town of Røros and is a UNESCO World Heritage area for its mining history. More about Røros will be explained when you reach the town.

    Røros municipality is one of the coldest places in Norway, and the coldest temperature recorded was -50C in January 1914. Most of the municipality is at around 630 metres above sea level and is mostly forested with birch. Two national parks, Femundsmarka national park and Forollhogna national park are partly within the municipality.

    The coat-of-arms comes from the old symbol for copper, which was heavily mined in Røros for centuries.

    Historically the municipality was inhabited by the South Sami people, who did reindeer herding here. In 2022 the national government approved a resolution to add an official Sami language name for the municipality: Rosse.

    Røros

    Town

    Røros is one of the most fascinating towns in Norway, and it is also seriously underrated. Located close to the Swedish border, Røros is a well-preserved historic town with charming wooden houses and an important industrial past.

    Røros was inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1980. In 2010, the listing was expanded to include the Circumference.

    Here’s the reasoning:

    Røros Mining Town and Circumference is linked to the copper mines, established in the 17th century and exploited for 333 years until 1977. The site comprises the town and its industrial-rural cultural landscapes; Femundshytta, a smelter, and the Winter Transport Route. Røros contained about 2000 wooden one and two-storey houses and a smelting cabin. Many of these buildings have preserved their blackened wooden facades, giving the town a medieval appearance. Surrounded by a buffer zone, coincident with the area of privileges (the Circumference) granted to the mining enterprise by the Danish-Norwegian Crown, the property illustrates the establishment of a lasting culture based on copper mining in a remote region and harsh climate.

    “Røros is a unique mining town built exclusively of wood. The town has for 333 years been a melting pot of cultures and influences from Germany, Denmark, Sweden, Trondheim and the surrounding district. This has resulted in a wooden house environment, which represents much of Norway’s finest traditions, and is unique in our country’s industrial, social, cultural and architectural areas. The mining town of Røros and its surroundings is a characteristic example of a special traditional style of wood architecture creating a unique town 600 metres above sea level.”

    Be sure to visit the Røros Museum at Lorentz Lossius Gata 45, 7374 Røros

    Røros

    Welcome to Røros! We made it. Røros is a UNESCO World Heritage Area full of history, charm, and things to do. I recommend parking at the Smelthytta Musuem and exploring Røros on foot. You can spend heaps of time here – be sure to make the most of it.

    Røros Travel Guide

    The Previous Drive

    The Rondane National Park

    The best way to get to Folldal is by taking the Rondane Tourist Road. 

    Rondane Tourist Road

    The Next Drive

    Oppdal to Kristiansund

    On the following day we drove to Kristiansund on the west coast of Norway via Oppdal. 

    Oppdal to Kristiansund

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Bergen, Dalen, Oslo, Stavanger, Telemark, Trondheim

    The Most Haunted Places in Norway

    The Most Haunted Places in Norway

    Norway is the land of folktales and trolls, but haunted places can be a little tricky to find. In fact, when I was making a ghost tour of Bergen, I got stuck because many Norwegians don’t believe in ghosts! Still, with all the history to be found in Norway, there have been some gruesome incidents that have led to tales of hauntings, so I did a deep dive online to find the most haunted places in the country.

    Here are some of the stories on the most haunted places in Norway that I found. Will you add these to your Norwegian adventure? Be sure to let me know!

    The Most Haunted Places in Bergen

    I wrote a seperate guide for the most haunted places in Bergen, which you can view below. 

    Haunted Places in Bergen

    The Most Haunted Places in Norway

    Akershus Fortress (Oslo)

    Akershus Fortress is probably one of the least surprising haunted location Norway. There are few places in Norway that have more supernatural tales than in the fortress. Most of the stories come from the time the fortress functioned as a prison for Norway’s most notorious criminals. During their time at the prison, they would be forced to do hard labour and the prison guards used irons, chains and isolation as disciplinary techniques. There have been reports of whispers and scratching along the fortress hallways.

    There is another haunted tale of Akershus Fortress – the demon dog Malcanisen. It is said of Malcanisen approaches you, then it means you will soon die; everyone who encounters him dies within three months. There have also been sightings of ‘nightpyres’ – burning women the size of babies with awful smiles. Their appearance is thought to precede a fire at the fortress. 

    Book a Ghost Tour of Oslo
    Oslo Travel Guide

    Nidaros Cathedral (Trondheim)

    I remember visiting Nidaros Cathedral with the intent of learning about the ghost stories, as this one fascinated me the most. Considering the cathedral’s history, it is probably not so surprising that there are tales of ghosts here. 

    The ghost here is in fact a monk. The monk was first seen in 1924 by bishop Marie Gleditsch, who claimed the apparition had a bloody gash along its throat as though it had just been cut. There was even blood dripping from the wound!

    There have been frequent reports of inexplicable chanting and organ music in the cathedral late at night. 

    However, keep in mind this ghost is a little controversial as historians claim no order of monks were ever connected to the cathedral. 

    Munkholmen (Trondheim)

    This tiny island has been an abbey, fort and a prison. People have heard and seen mysterious appearances here. Many believe the ghost to be the famous prisoner Peder Schumacher Griffenfeld, who was imprisoned on the island for 18 years.

    Trondheim Travel Guide

    Utstein Kloster (Stavanger)

    Utstein Abbey is the only medieval monastery in Norway that’s still in operation. As a former monastery, it has housed many men – but it’s a woman’s presence that still lingers in the place today. In the 18th century, the monastery was bought by the Garmann family. Christoffer Garmann lived there with his wife, Cecilia, who unfortunately died in childbirth in 1759 at 25 years old. Despite his promise to her on her deathbed that he would never marry again, Christoffer got engaged to a woman 36 years younger than him (!) 20 years later.

    Hoping to escape the promise to his wife, he arranged for the wedding to happen in Stavanger Cathedral. But Cecilia found him anyway, appearing in front of him in the middle of the ceremony. Christoffer died eight days later. Cecilia has been seen wandering the monastery in her wedding dress, presumably to make a point.

    Stavanger Travel Guide

    Dalen Hotel (Dalen)

    It’s not just historic fortresses and churches that are haunted, but hotels too! Dalen is one of the most beautiful historic hotels in Norway. . Located in the small village of Dalen in Telemark, the hotel was built in the late 19th century to accommodate guests taking the Telemark Canal. Guests and staff share accounts of Room 17’s notoriety, where the spirit referred to as “The English Lady” lingers in her eternal unrest.

    Originally known as Miss Greenfield of England, she arrived at Dalen Hotel one spring morning during the late 19th century and stayed as a guest for several months. Remarkably, her pregnancy remained a secret from the hotel’s staff. After she left, they made a grim discovery in the room – a lifeless infant. Miss Greenfield was arrested and charged with murder but took her own life before the trial could begin.

    To this day, a table is set for her at the hotel restaurant. The sound of a baby crying can be heard. 

    Source (Article in Norwegian)

    Dalen Travel Guide

    Hotel Union Øye (Øye)

    Hotel Union Øye is a charming historic hotel located in the Sunnmøre region near the Hjørundfjord and Geirangerfjord. Here, though, a tragic love story took place at the end of the 19th century. 

    This ghost story involves Linda, a servant girl who fell in love with a German officer. The officer was trapped in an unhappy marriage and he fell in love with Linda. Whenever the officer would visit the hotel, he and Linda would stay in the ‘Blue Room’.

    The officer tried to get a divorce but was denied. This upset him to the point that he committed suicide. As you can imagine, Linda was heartbroken by this. She ended up taking her own life too.

    People hear the ghost of Linda weeping in the Blue Room. Guests checking into the hotel get a silver bowl of garlic. If you’ve had a long trip and just don’t feel in the mood for ghostly shenanigans, you can keep the bowl in your room. However, if you’re curious, all you have to do is leave the bowl outside the door and wait. 

    Source (Article in Norwegian)

    Bærums Verk (Oslo)

    Bærums Verk is a historic village and ironworks located just out of Oslo. The Værtshuset restaurant here is one of the most notorious haunted places in the country – it is also one of the oldest restaurants of its kind in Norway as it opened in 1640. Many accounts of supernatural occurrences have been documented here. Many attribute these phenomena to the ghostly presence of Anna Krefting, the woman who managed and oversaw Bærums Verk for five decades during the 18th century. She has been spotted several times in the restaurants second floor, eternally dressed in green.

    In the administration building of Bærum Verks shopping district, there have been reports of a phone that rings every night at the exact same time. Those who pick up never hear anything but an odd, static hissing sound in the other end.

    Lier Asylum

    Lier Asylum is probably the most famous of the haunted places in Norway, at least among Norwegians. The old Lier Psychiatric Hospital opened in 1926. Between the 1930s and 1960s, the hospital started “experimental treatments” which included subjecting patients to lobotomies, LSD, and medically induced comas for days at a time. Due to the disproportionate ratio of patients to nurses, there were lots of reports of violence. Many of the old buildings have been torn down to make way for new housing, and the other buildings will also be renovated as apartments. Would you buy an apartment in that building?

    Article about Lier Asylum (in Norwegian)

    The Church Ruins of Nes (Vormsund)

    Over time, there have been accounts of peculiar phenomena, strange noises and unusual illuminations within the ruins of Nes Church in Vormsund. At the heart of these occurrences lies the enigmatic figure of Jacob Christian Finckenhagen, a priest who served the church from 1800 to 1837.

    The tales surrounding his life and fate remain a subject of controversy. Some assert that his offspring are interred within the walls behind the alter, while others claim he met his demise by hanging from the church rafters.

    Alternatively, it’s suggested that he simply succumbed to old age. Regardless of the uncertainty, numerous reports persist of his restless spirit wandering the church ruins during the night. Some visitors claim their movements become impaired and sluggish like they are submerged in water.

    Fredriksten Fortress (Halden)

    Fredriksten is a historic fortress in the town of Halden and is historically one of Norway’s most significant fortresses.

    Here you’ll find the White Lady – Den Hvite Dame – who is said to reside at the fortress. She was once the fortress commander’s mistress. After her lover was killed by a cannonball fired by Swedish forces attacking the fortress, his remains were not recovered. She killed herself by jumping off the fortress wall and is said to appear near the white tower at midnight.

    The Most Haunted Places in Norway

    There are so many fascinating historic sites in Norway, and the fact that they have these tales and legends makes them even more interesting to visit. Would you visit these haunted places in Norway?

    If I’ve missed a story, be sure to let me know!

  • Central Norway, Dombås, European Highways, Gudbrandsdalen, Hamar, Lillehammer, Oppdal, Oslo, Otta, Ringebu, Road-trips, Trondheim

    Drive it Yourself: Oslo to Trondheim on the E6

    Drive it Yourself: Oslo to Trondheim on the E6

    The E6 is the longest road that runs through Norway. Starting in Svinesund, on the Swedish border, it goes all the way to Kirkenes on the Russian border, stretching 2,576km.

    The busiest stretch of road, and the part that we cover here, is the stretch between Oslo and Trondheim. The E6 also follows the old Pilgrims Road that went from Hallvard Cathedral in Oslo to Nidaros Cathedral in Trondheim, and you will see many historic places associated with the old pilgrim’s road.

    This guide will start at the part of the E6 shortly after Oslo Airport, when you cross into Eidsvoll County.

    In this article...

    Downloadable Version of This Guide

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

    View at the Store

    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Information about facilities along the way

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the region & towns
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Facilities including supermarkets, toilets, petrol, hotels, cafes, restaurants with addresses.

    Oslo to Trondheim on the E6

    Oslo

    This drive begins just north of Oslo’s Gardermoen Airport, but you can learn more about Oslo via the travel guide below. 

    Oslo Travel Guide

    Eidsvoll Municipality

    The first municipality that you cross through after Oslo is Eidsvoll.

    The part ‘eid’ means “a road passing around a waterfall”, while ‘voll’ means “meadow” or “field”. The name therefore refers to the fact that people from the districts around the lake Mjøsa (you will see it later) were sailing down the river Vorma and people from Romerike were sailing up the river. They had to enter this area by passing the Sundfossen Waterfall. Because of this, the site has been an important meeting place long before the introduction of Christianity. The coat-of-arms depict a scale as a symbol of justice, representing the old court.

     

    Eidsvoll is mentioned in the Old Norse Sagas back to the 11th century. The sagas were a court and assembly for the eastern part of Norway mostly due to the lake and the river that served as a transport road. Historically the main industry was agriculture, despite the fact that there is a lot of clay in the soil.

    The town of Eidsvold in Queensland, Australia, and Eidsvold Township in Minnesota use the old spelling of the municipality. The current ‘Eidsvoll’ was adopted in Norway in 1918.

    Small Detour: Eidsvoll Town

    Eidsvoll is a historically important place in Norway. You must leave the E6 and take a small detour, but it is worth it. Eidsvoll Church is an old church from 1200 and is built in the Romanesque style. The church is located on the old Pilgrims Road and is one of the important stops along the way.

    Eidsvoll Verk (how it is written on Google Maps) refers to the smelt iron ore that King Christian IV of Denmark opened in 1624. He was relying on the excellent water power from the Andelva River. The smeltery was taken over by Kongsberg Silver Mines. Carsten Anker bought the works in 1794 and restored it, setting up the production of stoves and similar iron goods. He also took residence in Eidsvoll, building a manor house now known as Eidsvollsbygningen. The Eidsvoll Verk has closed, but the name still remains. The old mill can be seen in the town.

    In 1854, Eidsvoll became the end point for the first railroad line in Norway from Oslo.

    This is the site where the constitutional assembly met to draft and sign the Constitution of Norway on the 17th of May 1814. The building is considered to be one of Norway’s most important national monuments and the cradle of modern Norway. Today it is a museum. The home was lived in by Carsten Anker, owner of the iron works, lived here during the time when it was used to sign the constitution. He went bankrupt in 1822 and the ownership of the estate was transferred to British creditors. A group of private citizens led by Henrik Wergeland organised a fundraiser that allowed them to buy the building with the pavilion and surrounding garden. When the purchase was finalised, the group donated the property to the Norwegian estate.

    I will visit the building eventually and write a more detailed overview of it.

    Minnesund

    Minnesund is a small village on the southern tip of Lake Mjøsa at the place where the lake flows into the Vorma River. Minnesund is an old ferry pier and has always been important for travel and communications. 

    Lake Mjøsa

    Lake Mjøsa is the largest lake in Norway and the 35th largest in Europe. It is also Norway’s and Europe’s fourth-deepest lake with the greatest depth being 453 metres. Lake Mjøsa provides drinking water for up to 100,000 people.

    The area around the lake is one of the most fertile agricultural districts in Norway.

    The meaning of the word ‘Mjøsa’ is unknown.

    In summer the surface temperature averages between 13 and 16 degrees and up to 20 degrees deep in the Furnesfjorden. Parts of the lake freeze over in December. In January, almost all the lake is covered with ice and in particularly cold winters the entire lake can be covered with ice in February.

    Mjøsa is home to Norway’s largest inland fishery and is also one of the country’s most species-rich lakes. 21 fish species have been found in the lake, including perch, trout, pike and other species.

    The lake has also been an important transport and traffic artery, even when frozen. The lake is commonly mentioned in the Viking Sagas and the transport of goods on the lake was probably extensive and well organized in the Viking Age and Hamar’s heyday in the High Middle Ages. Salt, grain, iron, coffee, sugar and tobacco went north, while alcohol, glass, timber, ore, cheese, butter and grain went south. Steamships were launched on the lake in 1840 for better transport.

    Innlandet County

    You will now be driving through Innlandet County. 

    Stange Municipality

    Stange is the first municipality you will pass through in Innlandet county. There have been settlements here since well before the Viking Age. Because of the old transport route went along here, there has been trade and hospitality here since time immoral. Stange Church, with is in Stange village, is first mentioned in 1225 in Håkon Håkonssons saga. The current building is from 1250.

    Stange is one of the largest agricultural municipalities in Innlandet. Norway’s oldest agricultural school, Jønsberg High School, is located here. The high school teaches in nature management, agriculture, animal husbandry, forestry, and biology, as well as organic farming, mathematics and chemistry. The school was established in 1847. You will pass the school on your right shortly before going into Hamar.

    Espa

    Espa is a small village that saw fighting during World War II, when battles were fought between Norwegians and Germans to prevent the Germans from following the King as he fled Oslo. The Espa Servicesenter has become kind of (?) famous because it has sold a large number of buns in recent years, earning the nickname ‘bolle land’ . You can visit their website here: https://www.bolleland.no/

    Hamar Municipality

    Hamar municipality is named after the main town in the area – Hamar. We’ll cover Hamar next, but first lets talk about the coat-of-arms for the municipality. The coat-of-arms depict a Black Grouse sitting on top of a pine tree. The first version of this coat-of-arms was depicted in 1553

    Hamar

    Hamar is the first major town on the E6. It is also one of the major historic towns in Norway and was one of the powerful centres of Norway during the Viking and medieval times. 

    You can read our separate guide to Hamar below. 

    Hamar Travel Guide

    Ringsaker Municipality

    Ringsaker Municipality gets its name from the old Ringsaker Church. The coat-of-arms shows a moose; the image is taken from a pre-historic cave painting that has been found in the municipality. The area is mentioned in King Harald Hårfagres Saga as well as St. Olavs Saga when St. Olav was christening the area.

    Ringsaker is primarily an agricultural and lumbering region. 

    Brumunddal

    The town of Brumunddal (population 11,019) grew as a settlement with the establishment of the Dovre train line in 1894. The major industry in the town is agriculture and forestry. Close to Brumunddal is the Mjøsa Tower (Mjøstårnet), the world’s tallest wooden building. It is 18 floors and 85.4 metres high. 

    Rudshøgda

    Rudshøgda is best known as the childhood home of author, poet, playwright, songwriter and musician Alf Prøysen. Prøysenhuset is a cultural centre and museum honoring his memory. He wrote the very popular Mrs Pepperpot series of childrens books.

    Moelv

    The town of Moelv (population 4,459) was built around various mills that were utilising the power of the Moelva River. The largest industrial company here is Moelven Industrier, which is one of Scandinavia’s leading suppliers of building products.

    Rock carvings have been found in Moelv that can be traced back tot he Stone Age and are generally regarded as the best-preserved rock carvings in Norway. Additionally, the Ringsaker Church is located here. It was completed in the middle of the 12th century and is dedicated to St. Olav. 

    North of Moelv is Tovsteinsringen (The twelve-stone ring). This is an ancient stone circle that is often compared to Stonehenge (this one is much, much smaller). It is believed to have been the site of a burial ritual, likely for a wealthy, high-ranking person.

    Lillehammer Municipality

    Lillehammer Municipality is named after the major town of Lillehammer, your next detour. The name Lillehammer means “Little Hammer” and was developed as a new trading town on the Lake Mjøsa after Hamar, hence the name. The coat-of-arms depict a birkebeiner, a 12th-century civil war fighter, carrying a shield, who is skiing down a silver/white mountainside under a blue sky. The birkebieners carried the future King Haakon from Lillehammer to Rena on skis during the Civil War.

    There have been settlements here since the Iron Age and the market here was mentioned in Håkon Håkonssons saga in 1390. It was also believed to have a site for the Ting assembly. However, despite this history, Lillehammer was registered as a trading down in 1827.

    Lillehammer

    Lillehammer is the next major stop on the E6. There is so much to say about Lillehammer, so check out our separate travel guide page. 

    Lillehammer Travel Guide

    Øyer Municipality

    Øyer Municipality is the first municipality within the Gudbrandsdalen region. The coat-of-arms show a silver-coloured wooden ring on a green background. This is a type of ring that was historically made of wood and was used to fasten a tree trunk to a rope to haul it over the land. Similar devices were used all over Norway, but this shape was typical for the area.

    Øyer was one of the area’s most severely impacted by the Black Death in 1349-1350. It is believed that up to 75% of residents here died, and many of the farms were deserted until the late 17th century.

    Øyer is a farming and logging municipality, though recreation is increasingly through the ski centres.

    Tretten

    Tretten is a small village with a population of 860. In 2022, it made the news as the bridge that crosses the river completely collapsed. 

    Ringebu Municipality

    Ringebu municipality is located within the traditional Gudbrandsdalen region and has a population of 4,800. The largest and main settlement is the town of Ringebu. The coat-of-arms represents shows three flames, representing the three valleys and three parishes in the municipality.

    Ringebu

    Ringebu may be a small village, but it is home to Norway’s largest stave church. Read our travel guide below. 

    Ringebu Travel Guide

    Sør-Fron Municipality

    Sør-Fron Municipality is a small municipality in the Gudbrandsdalen valley. The coat-of-arms show a white or silver club on a green background. The club is reminiscent of the club that Kolbein Sterke used in 1021 when King Olav Haraldsson met the people of Fron and Dale-Gudbrand at Hundorp. The meeting is depicted in the Norse Sagas.

    The most important industries here are agriculture, industrial factories, and tourism.

    The famous play Peer Gynt is staged annually at Lake Gålå in the mountains around Sør-Fron. It is believed that Peer Gynt is set in the area.

    Hundorp

    Hundorp is the administrative centre of the municipality. Historically, Hundorp is a very important place. It was the centre of the petty kingdom of the Gudbrand Valley and as such an important place in terms of religion and politics.

    All this took place at Dale-Gudbrand’s farm. Dale-Gudbrand is a famous historic figure from the 1100s. He is mentioned in multiple Norse sagas, but most famously in the story of Olav the Holy christianising Gudbrandsdalen. You can read the story here. The image above is a drawing of Olav christianising the farmers. 

    Around the farm are five large grave mounds, though sadly one of them was removed. The four remaining are between 23 and 32 metres (75ft and 105ft). Additionally, there’s a square ring of stones and the remains of a round ring of stones, indicating a possible worshipping site.

    Today it is a Pilgrim Centre. There is a small farm shop with local food products and souvenirs. You can also spend the night there if you wish. Click here to visit their website. 

    Harpefoss

    Harpefoss is a small town with a population of 335. The name comes from the railway development in 1896, when the railway station was named Harpefoss. People have lived here for centuries, though, and old names were Skurdal and Ryssland. Harpefoss is the name of the waterfall that separates two hamlets.

    During the railway development, Harpefoss Hotel was built. It is the only hotel left that is one of the original hotels from the railway development period that still stands. It is built in Swiss style with neo-Gothic features. It has long since been closed down as a hotel, and after a period as a country store, the house is now a residence.

    In Harpefoss you can stay in a historic farm! 

    The farm ‘Sygard Grytting’ has belonged to the same family since the 14th century. The current owner is the 16th generation since the year 1534. 

    It’s believed that as far back as Christianity goes, pilgrims would stay at the property on their way towards Nidaros in Trondheim. Because of these, there are unusual details in some of the buildings that are very similar to details found in monasteries. 

    You can stay in historic houses from the 17th century – the same houses the pilgrims stayed in – or buildings from the 19th century. 

    The property is still a working farm. 

    Agriculture specialises in sheep, grain, grass production and forestry. In ancient times, the operation was very versatile and the farm was self-sufficient in most things.

    Sødorp Church

    Sødorp Church is a wooden cruciform church from 1752. It’s believed the first church on the site was a stave church, but it was replaced in 1570 and no trace of it remains today. In 1752, the church was replaced once again with the church we have today.

    Originally the church stood in Sødorp, a small town just south of Vinstra – hence its name. However, Vinstra emerged as a major town in the early 20th century, and it was decided to move the church there. In 1910, the church was moved to its present location. 

    The 18th century church originally had a very high tower, but it was destroyed by wind in 1850. The church then got a stumpy small tower (click here for a photo of it). When it was moved to Vinstra, they made a new high tower for the church. You can see photos of the construction process here, here, and its completion here. 

    Much of the interior is from the 18th century, including the altarpiece, pulpit, choir arch, crucifix and relief figures. The soapstone baptismal font is from the Middle Ages, though.

    In the graveyard you’ll find a memorial stone to the real Peer Gynt. 

    Nord-Fron Municipality

    Nord-Fron is a small municipality with a population of around 5,600. It is home to Skåbu, a village located 870m above sea level. It is Norway’s highest situated rural area with a permanent settlement. The coat-of-arms depicts a Dole Gudbrandsddal horse; the area has a long tradition of horse breeding and is one of the main centres in Norway.

    Kvam

    Kvam is probably most famous for the battles that took place here during World War II. During the military campaign in Norway in 1940, Kvam was the scene of a battle between German and British forces. During the battle, the original Kvam Church (from 1776) was destroyed, along with 70 houses. There is a whole Wiki page to the battles, which you will find here. 

    By Kvam Church is the Peace Park, which is a memorial to the locals killed during World War II. There are also memorials on Stølane (Kvamsfjellet) where Russian soldiers were shot by Germans, and on Hillingen where three Norwegian soldiers lost their lives in a battle against German troops.

    Kvam has a British military cemetery. There is also a museum about World War II, the Gudbrandsdal War Memorial Collection, in town.

    Remember the battle at Otta in 1612 between Norwegian peasants and the Scots? Well, after the battle 134 Scottish prisoners were taken from Otta to Kvam. At Klomstadlåven, most were killed in a massacre. The barn building where they were kept before they were massacred, was destroyed during World War II.

    Kvam currently has a population of 762. Most of the industry has closed down in the last few years.

    Sel Municipality

    Sel’s coat-of-arms depicts a girl playing a trumpet. This represents the local legend about the Prillar-Guri, where in 1612 a Scottish army marched through on its way to Sweden. They were stopped by the farmers at the Battle of Kringen, and legend says that the farmers were made aware of the army’s arrival by a local girl with a trumpet.

    Sel is regarded as one of the more scenic and historically significant areas of the Gudbrandsdalen valley, which a large number of Norway’s heritage-listed farms being here.

    Otta

    In the higher part of the Gudbrandsdlaen valley is the town of Otta. It is the next major town after Lillehammer, and you can find out more via our travel guide. 

    Otta Travel Guide

    Sel Church

    Sel Church is a historic wooden church dating back to 1742. It is not the first church on the site, though. It is believed that the first church here was a wooden stave church built in the 13th century. However, the church has since been rebuilt twice due to the older ones deteriorating.

    Sel

    Sel is a small village with a population of 437. Sel was the main town in the region until Otta was built up around the time the Dovrebanen was completed in the area.

    In Sigrid Undset’s novel about Kristin Lavransdatter, the protagonist grows up at Jørundgard, a medieval farm. The movie was filmed on the property too. Unfortunately the property is now closed to the public.

    Dovre Municipality

    You are starting to get higher into Norway now! Dovre municipality gives its name to the railway line but also the Dovrefjell National Park. The coat-of-arms depicts a muskox. The animal is not native to Norway, but in 1932 ten were released near Dovre. Besides muskox, wild reindeer and wolverines also live in the municipality.

    People have lived at Dovre for around 6,000 years. In the Stone Age, they were primarily hunters and fishermen. Approximately 2000 years ago, the first farms were developed. Dovre is mentioned in the Norse Sagas when King Olav travelled through the area, forcing the locals to either become Christian or suffer death.

    After leaving Dovre, the path becomes more mountainous. As this is located on the Pilgrims Road, many mountain stations were established on the road to accommodate those crossing the mountains to Trondheim.

    Dovre Village

    Dovre is the administrative centre of the municipality. Close to Dovre is Budsjord Pilegrimsgården – hotell Dovre, a historic mountain farm and accommodations for travellers on the Pilgrims Road. The property is mentioned in documents from the 1400s, while the 17 protected buildings are from between the 17th and 19th centuries.

    Dombås

    Dombås is the next major town that you pass through and it is also an important meeting point between east and west. You can read more about Dombås on our travel guide. 

    Dombås Travel Guide

    Fokstugu Fjellstue

    On your left you will pass one of the historic mountain accommodations. The first accommodations on the site were constructed around 1120 by King Øystein Magnusson, wo wanted the pilgrims to have places to stay on their journey. While the farm has been rebuilt multiple times since then, pilgrims heading to Trondheim have always stayed there.

    Today the property is a sheep farm, and it does open in the summer for travellers who want to spend the night there. The farm is run by the 11th generation of the same family who have owned it.

    Hjerkinn

    Hjerkinn is in the Dovrefjell mountains and is one of the driest places in the country, with only 222 millimetres (8.7 inches) in annual precipitation. The train station is an impressive looking building. The Hjerkinn Station is Dovrebanens highest station at 1,017 metres above sea level.

    Hjerkinn is an old rest station with traditions dating back to the 13th century, when pilgrims would travel through the area.

    Trøndelag County

    You now cross into Trøndelag county. 

    Oppdal Municipality

    Oppdal is the first municipality you drive through in Trøndelag. This is a mountainous municipality, with large parts of it in the Dovrefjell. Østfjella and Trollheimen mountains. This is represented in the coat-of-arms.

    125 years ago, Oppdal was a purely agricultural community where the people produced practically everything they needed themselves. Today agriculture is still a significant industry. The sheep industry in Oppdal is the largest in the country with 45,000 sheep here.

    Kongsvoll Mountain Lodge

    Kongsvoll is another historic mountain lodge. The original inn was built in the 12th century, while the oldest parts of the lodge date back to the 18th century.

    Nearby is the Kongsvoll Alpine Garden, run by Trondheim’s university. This is the only alpine botanical garden in Scandinavia.

    Oppdal

    Oppdal is a major town and the administrative centre for the municipality. 

    Oppdal Travel Guide

    Rennebu Municipality

    Rennebu is a mostly mountainous municipality. The coat of arms shows the outline of the local church, Rennebu Church, which is one of the oldest churches in Norway based on a Y-shaped outline. The Trollheimen and Forollhogna National Parks lie in the municipality and the salmon river Orkla flows through it.

    Berkåk

    Berkåk is a small village with a population of around 959. The name comes from the word birch, referring to a prominent type of tree in the area. Every year in August, the Rennebumartnan is hosted in town. It is a sales exhibition for home improvement and handicrafts with around 20,000 visitors.

    Mitre Gauldal

    Mitre Gauldal is primarily an agricultural municipality. Every third person living here works in agriculture. Milk, poultry and eggs are produced here. The coat-of-arms shows a silver crossed Y figure on a green background. The crossed Y has several meanings. First, it symbolises the landscape which is based on the meeting of the two valleys here (Gauldal and Soknedal). The municipality also has a major Y-shaped road and railway junction. Lastly, the Budal Church, dating from 1745, is one of the oldest and few remaining Y-shaped churches in the country.

    Soknedal

    Soknedal is a small village located by the river Sokna.

    Støren

    Støren is the administrative centre of Mitre Gauldal municipality. It is located in the Gauldalen valley where the Gaula and Sokna rivers meet. The Dovrebanen and the Rørosbanen meet here as well.

    Melhus Municipality

    Melhus is the last municipality you pass through before Trondheim. Agriculture is important here, and the valleys are dominated by grain fields. The coat-of-arms symbolise a man called Einar Tambarskjelve, a famous chieftain and archer from Melhus in the 11th century. The entire area of Melhus was known during the Viking Age. It was the site of the first farm Rimul at which Jarl Haakon was killed by his slave, Tormod Kark. Archaeological excavations in the area have uncovered discoveries from the Viking Age. Additionally, 3,000 year old graves have been found.

    Melhus

    Melhus is the administrative centre of the municipality. Melhus is home to the Rimul farm, which is known from the Viking Age. It was the scene of the murder of Håkon Sigurdsson by his slave Tormod Kark, as described in the Saga of King Olav. The farm is still in operation today.

    Hakon had a mistress called Thora at the Rimul farm. Hakon and his slave were seeking shelter in hiding from Olav Tryggvason (founder of Trondheim) and his men, who were at the time searching for him. Thora led them to a pig sty beneath a great stone. Later, after killing the Earls son, Olav Tryggvason arrived at Rimul with a group of local farmers, now supporting him. The story continues in the Norse Sagas:

    Then Olaf held a speech out in the farm, he went up unto a great rock lying near the pig sty. Olaf spoke, and in his speech he said he would reward any man richly who could harm Hákon Earl. The Earl and Kark heard this speech. They had light where they lay. The Earl said: “Why are you so pale, yet sometimes black as dirt? It is not so that you wish to harm me?” “No,” says Kark. “We were born on the same night,” says the Earl. “Close will also our deaths be.”

    Lying in the pig sty at night, Kark killed Hakon. He brought the head to Olav, hoping to collect a reward. Unfortunately, Olav did not respect a slave murdering his own lord. Tormod Kark was himself decapitated. Both heads were put on stakes at Munkholmen for people to spit at.

    Trondheim Municipality

    You now cross into Trondheim municipality, the last municipality for the drive. 

    Trondheim

    You have made it to Trondheim, Norway’s third-largest city. You can read more about Trondheim via our travel guide below. 

    Trondheim Travel Guide

    Continue the drive

    Mo i Rana to Trondheim on the E6

    Continue your drive along the E6 up to the Arctic Circle and Mo i Rana. 

    Mo i Rana to Trondheim

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Central Norway, European Highways, Mo i Rana, Mosjoen, Road-trips, Trondheim

    Drive it Yourself: E6 from Mo i Rana to Trondheim

    Drive it Yourself: E6 from Mo i Rana to Trondheim

    The E6 (European Highway 6) is the main highway that runs through Norway. This section, from Mo i Rana to Trondheim, runs primarily through the county of Trøndelag. While not as dramatic as some other stretches of road on the E6, it’s the way between central Norway and Northern Norway, and there are some nice places to stop along the way. 

    You’ll probably use this road if you are looking to get to Northern Norway quickly. Sure, the coastal road is much more scenic, but the E6 is much quicker. There are some beautiful spots to stop at along the way, which I’ve done my best to highlight below. 

    In this article...

    Downloadable Version of This Guide

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

    View at the Store

    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Information about facilities along the way

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the region & towns
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Facilities including supermarkets, toilets, petrol, hotels, cafes, restaurants with addresses.

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    Visit Our YouTube Channel

    The E6 Between Mo i Rana & Trondheim

    Mo i Rana

    This drive begins in Mo i Rana. You can find a detailed overview of Mo i Rana on our travel guide. 

    Mo i Rana Travel Guide

    Hemnes Municipality

    Hemnes Municipality is located in Nordland County . The municipality focuses on agriculture, power production, the mechanical industry, wood products and boat building. The coat of arms represents this industry with a boat clamp in gold against a blue backdrop.

    Hemnes has the oldest operating local radio network in Norway, called Radio Korgen, which was established in 1982.

    Finneidfjord

    Village

    Finneidfjord is a small settlement. The name comes from its Sami heritage; Finniedt was a Sami farm first mentioned in 1567. The settlement saw growth starting in 1925 with the establishment of a margarine factory. The margarine factory was very well-known in Norway until it was bought out and closed in 1973. A caviar factory was built on the same site and operated until 2007, when it closed down.

    Bjerka

    Town

    Bjerka is a small town located at the mouth of the river Røssåga. One of the main employers in town is the slaughterhouse, which slaughters cattle, pugs and sheep producing dry beef and pork ribs. Since 2008, it has been the only slaughterhouse in Nordland County. About 90 employees work here.  

    Korgen

    Town

    Korgen is the main town for Hemnes municipality. Many Norwegians have heard of Korgen because of the Korgenfjellet mountain range, which is perfect for skiing. Because of that, the town is quite popular for people staying for a few days to take advantage of the mountains. The tallest mountain in Northern Norway, Oksskolten, is located here. Korgen is also close to the Okstindan Nature and Culture Park.

    The Okstindan Nature and Culture Park is a centre full of hiking trails, ski trails, and history. It includes the “Blood Trail”, which chronicles the Nazi’s attempt to construct a railway to Narvik and the Soviet POWs tasked with building the railway. There are also glaciers and caves to explore.

    You can easily spend a few days here if you love the outdoors. Visit the park website for more detailed information about what you can see and do. https://visitokstindan.com/en/kategori/the-okstindan-nature-and-cultural-park/

    Sandnessjøen

    Sandnessjøen is a charming little town located on the Hegleland Coastal Road (one of Norway’s 18 National Tourist Roads). It’s a lovely place to visit, but the detour can be a little lengthy. It takes about 45 minutes to get there from the E6, but you’d want to spend a little time in the area driving around to see the Seven Sisters and surrounding region.

    You can learn about Sandnessjøen by reading my travel guide (to the left). 

    Sandnessjøen Travel Guide

    Vefsn Municipality

    Vefsn is a municipality with arguably the best coat-of-arms in Norway – a surprised chicken! The name Vefsn comes from the river Vefsna, which flows through the municipality into the Vefsnfjorden. The meaning of the name is unknown.

    The main town centre for Vefsn is Mosjøen, a town a highly recommend visiting on this drive. The landscape is dominated by spruce forests, mountains, lakes, agriculture, and the river.

    This area is very old; there are traces of settlement in Vefsn back to the Stone Age. Among other things, Norway’s oldest skis have been found in Drevja. Vefsn also appears in the story of how Torolv Kveldulvsson demanded the ‘Finn treasure’ in Egils saga, and the road where this supposedly took place is now called “Toraveien”.

    Mosjøen

    Mosjøen is an adorable small town located on the Helgeland coast, and I highly recommend visiting here. It is, in fact, the oldest town in Helgeland (the name of the traditional region in) and the second-oldest town in Nordland County after Bodø. Mosjøen was declared a trading place in 1875 and has historically been an important industrial and transportation town. Many of the original wooden buildings are still standing today, making it a charming town to go walking through.

    mosjøen Travel Guide

    Grane Municipality

    Grane (Sami name: Gaala) is a small municipality within Nordland County. It is located in the southernmost part of Nordland County, and it links Nordland with the next county, Trøndelag. The main town for Grane is Trofors, which we’ll drive through.

    The name Grane comes from an old farm that used to be here. The farm is known from the Middle Ages, but it rose to prominence in the 17th century. The main industries here are agriculture, forestry, and some reindeer husbandry. Grane is one of the southernmost settlements of the Sami people, and about 10 reindeer husbandry units operate here.

    Laksforsen

    Cafe

    Soon after the Grane municipality sign is Laksforsen, a rest stop and cafe. It is located by a waterfall and has lovely views out to Vefsna river. 

    You can visit their website here. 

    Vefsna River

    River

    The Vefsna River (Sami name: Vaapstenjeanoe) is the largest river in Nordland County – about 163km (101 mi) long. The river flows north, not far from the Swedish border. At Mosjøen, the river empties into the Vefsnfjord.

    Historically Vefsna was known for its salmon, but due to a parasite the salmon population have declined. So, while salmon fishing can’t be done here anymore, it is still possible to fish for trout and char. A fishing licence is required to fish here.

    Brønnøysund

    Trofors is located at the junction between the E6 and Highway 73, which runs between Brønnøysund and Sweden. Both are about 40 minutes from this junction, and each is a great detour.

    I’ve covered Brønnøysund at the travel guide section. 

    Brønnøysund Travel Guide

    Trofors

    Village

    Trofors (Sami name: Trovvegarse) is the main centre for Grane. It is located at the main junction between the European Highway 6 and the Norwegian National Road 73, which runs between Brønnøysund and Tårnaby in Sweden. The town is primarily an agricultural town, but there are over 2,000 fishing lakes here too, making it great for fishing.

    Majavatn

    Village

    Majavatn (Sami name: Maajehjaevrie) is a small village at the bottom of Grane municipality. It has a substaintial Sami settlement who work with reindeer husbandry. Majavatn is also known from World War II. There were confrontations between the Germans and the Norwegian citizens at a nearby farm, and many of the Norwegians involved were later executed by Germans at Falstad concentration camp in 1942.

    Crossing into Trøndelag

    County Border

    As you leave Nordland County there is a fun sign over the highway with ‘Trøndelag’ on the side we are going and ‘Nord Norge’ on the opposite side, signifying the boundary between Trøndelag County and Norland County. There is a carpark by the sign so you can take some photos, and there’s also a rest area.

    Trøndelag Municipality

    We have now crossed into Trøndelag County, which is in the central part of Norway. A person from Trøndelag is known as a trønder, which the dialect here is called trøndersk.

    People have lived in Trøndelag for thousands of years, and during the Iron Age Trøndelag was divided into several petty kingdoms, each with their own common law and all sharing the parliament or thing called Frostating. This is sometimes regarded as the first real democracy.

    Trøndelag was well-known during the Viking Age, and many of Norway’s most famous Vikings lived here. Before the capital was moved to Bergen in 1214, Trøndelag was the site of many of the famous palaces and residences of the Kings. When Bergen (and eventually Oslo) became the capital, Trøndelag’s importance in Norway declined. Today Trøndelag is known for its well-preserved Viking history and the Nidaros Cathedral, located in Trondheim.

    The proximity to Sweden has led to conflicts over the years. Trøndelag was briefly ceded to Sweden in 1658 in the Treaty of Roskilde. It was returned to Denmark-Norway after the Treaty of Copenhagen in 1660. Another attempt was made in 1718 by the Swedes to take Trøndelag, but they were not successful.

    Trøndelag has a diverse climate and geography. Along the coast are the largest islands in Norway south of the Arctic Circle. The south-western part of Trøndelag is separated from Norway by large mountain ranges, especially the Dovrefjell and Trollheimen Mountain Ranges. Closer to the Swedish border the land flattens into a high valley, where Røros is located. In the north, there are several large valleys and flatlands. The rivers in Trøndelag are among the best salmon rivers in Eruope.

    The climate varies dramatically depending on where in the county you are. Closer to the sea has a oceanic climate with mild, wet winters, while closer to the Swedish border are some of the lowest temperatures in Norway during winter. Røros, for example, is the only place in south-central Norway to have recorded -50C (-58F). Most of the lowland areas have a humid continental climate, while the inland valleys, hills and highlands have a boreal climate.

    Trøndelag is primarily an agricultural region, with some of the most fertile land in Norway. Most of the production is meat and milk. Other traditional industries are forestry, mining, and fishing. Today Trøndelag has significant hydropower and wind power companies that support power-intensive industries such as the various timber mills. Aquaculture countes for half of Trøndelag’s export value. The oil and gas industry is also significant. Trondheim is a centre for higher education and has the largest educational institution at the country’s largest university, NTNU.

    The region is known for its moonshine homebrew, known as heimbrent. It is officially banned, but the art of producing moonshine has a strong following in parts of Trøndelag. Traditionally the spirit is served mixed with coffee to create a drink called karsk. The official dish is sodd, made from diced sheep or beef meat and meatballs in boiled stock. The Norwegian Grey Troender sheep is an endangered breed of domesticated sheep originally from Trøndelag. There are approximately 50 sheep left, and efforts are being made to revive the breed.

    Nammskogan Municipality

    We are currently in the upper part of the Namdalen valley, and the municipality takes its name from this. The municipality is heavily forested with several large lakes and the river Namsen running through it.

    Namdalen (Sami name: Nååmesjevuemie) is also the name of the traditional district here. There are three towns here: Namsos, Rørvik and Kolvereid. The rest are small villages and settlements. The river Namsen is one of the best salmon rivers in Europe (only the Tana River in Finnmark has a larger catch of salmon). Agriculture and forestry are also, understandable, important to Namdalen. Norway spruce is the main tree species.

    Namsen River

    River

    The Namsen River (Sami name: Nååmesje) is one of the longest rivers in Trøndelag – around 228km (142 mi) long. It has traditionally been used for floating timber down from the forests to the town of Namsos, where the sawmills were located. The river begins in springs in the Børgefjell National Park and travels through the valley, ending at the coast in Namsos. It is considered one fo the best Atlantic Salmon fishing rivers in the world and is often called the ’Queen of Rivers’. Catching salmon that weigh 23kg (51lb) is not unusual.

    Børgefjellet National Park

    National Park (Detour)

    Børgefjellet National Park is a scenic off-the-beaten path national park with high mountains, rivers, and mountain lakes. The landscape has remnants of Sami domestic reindeer herding, which continues still today. It is a place to go fishing or take some lovely hikes. It is a largely undeveloped area with virtually no construction activity. If you do want to spend some time here, you need to be aware of where you are and camp in the area. The park is located in the centre of Norway along the Swedish border and is also home to the Scandinavian Mountain range.

    Brekkvasselv

    Village

    Brekkvasselv is a tiny village in Namsdalen. The village is also known as Ælva, and a person from Brekkvasselv is known as an Ælving. The first peoples settled here in the 20th century, coming from other places in Norway. However, the Sami have been here for thousands of years, and reindeer herding took place in the highlands.

    The people who came here in the 20th century came because they were helping with the construction of the Nordlandsbanen, and if they settled here they were offered free plots of land to build on.

    Grong Municipality

    Grong (Sami name: Kråangke) is a municipality in Trøndelag with Medjå being the main town. The name comes from an old farm, and the first element is an Old Norse word for spruce. This is also represented on the coat-of-arms; the three spruce trees represent the three main villages in the municipality.

    One of the main waterfalls here is Fiskumfoss, an economically important waterfall that is used for power production. There is also a salmon ladder here. A salmon aquarium has been built by the waterfall, where you can sit and eat salmon while watching the waterfall. The building also has the Norwegian Sport Fishing History Museum. Burial mounds are also found throughout the area from the older Iron Age, and there are ancient moose hunting grounds, house foundations, and roads.

    Medjå/Grong

    Village

    We are passing the village of Medjå, which is sometimes called Grong. It is a small village with a petrol station and supermarket.

    Snåsa Municipality

    Snåsa (South Sami: Snåase) is a small but important municipality: it is one of the last strongholds of the seriously endangered Southern Sami language. In Snåsa you’ll find the Saemien Sijte, which is the national museum of South Sami history and culture. The goal of the museum is to strengthen South Sami identity and a sense of community. Next to the museum is a primary school that teaches the South Sami language.

    The coat-of-arms represents a yellow Lady Slipper orchid on a blue background. At least 15 species of orchid have been found growing in Snåsa, and they are known as some of the magnificent orchids in Scandinavia.

    Snåsavatnet / Snåsa Lake

    Lake

    The lake we see straight ahead is Snåsavatnet, the sixth-largest lake in Norway at 122km2 (47 sq mi). The lake reaches depths of up to 186m (610ft) and was made by glacial erosion.

    Egge

    Historic Site (Detour)

    We are passing the exit to Egge. Egge is a known Viking town, and it was home to the powerful chieftains who gathered the peasants to fight against Olav Haraldsson in the Battle of Stiklestad in 1030.

    The museum has a reconstructed manor and fun activities for kids. For the adults, the cultural landscape is preserved and there are a number of hiking trails you can take to enjoy the ancient scenery.

    Click here to read more. 

    Steinkjer Municipality

    Steinkjer is one of the larger municipalities in the region, though its population density is very low, with just 12.6 inhabitants per sq km (33 sq mi). The population has increased by 2.4% over the last 10 years. The coat-of-arms shows a verranjekt, a type of boat that is very common in the area. It’s a new coat-of-arms from 2020.

    The area around Steinkjer is historic – it has been populated since the Stone Age. Rock carvings can be seen in the area, and the oldest are 6,000 years old. During the Viking Age, Steinkjer was an important base and Maere was one of the best known religious places with sacrifices and gatherings before Christianity came to the country.

    The town of Steinkjer was sadly bombed during World War II. The attack destroyed a large part of Steinkjer, and many priceless historic buildings, including the church, were lost. The town was quickly rebuilt after the war with the help of aid from the United States. Much of the architecture found in Steinkjer is from the 1950s and 1960s and is inspired by functionalism. One of the few buildings to survive the bombing is the train station, which is designed in art nouveau.

    Steinkjer is one of the northernmost areas with rich agriculture, allowing large production of grain. You’ll notice as you drive through just how important grain production is to the area. Tall grain silos can be seen all over the landscape.

    Inderøy Municipality

    Inderøy is an agricultural municipality located in North Trøndelag. The municipality has been inhabited since the Middle Ages, and the village of Sakshaug used to be an important political centre. It is home to one of the oldest churches in the area, Old Sakshaug Church, from 1184.

    The coat-of-arms shows the European plaice. The fish was once plentiful int he waters and was one of the main sources of income in the area until around 1940. Fishing is still important to the region. Farming is also very important to the area, and most of the municipality is cultivated. Grass and grain are the most common crops, but strawberries are also common. Most farmers have their own forest, too.

    The population density is 19.4 inhabitants per sq km (50/sq mi). The population has increased by 15.9% over the last 10 years.

    One of the most prominent 20th century Norwegian sculptors, Nils Aas, is from this area.

    Verdal Municipality

    People have lived at Verdal since the Stone Age, and there are farms in the region that are mentioned as far back as the 12th century. The municipality is best known for the site Stiklestad, where we are heading to next.

    A unique word to learn for this area is råning. It refers to all the young people here who are interested in cars. They spend a lot of their time improving or styling their cars and then driving them on a particular route to show them off.

    The economy here is supported by the offshore industry as well as agriculture. Verdal is also known as one of the greatest lottery towns of Norway, with several lottery grand prizes going to people living in Verdal.

    Stiklestad

    Historic Site (Detour)

    Stiklestad is one of the most important religious sites in the country. It is where, in 1030, St. Olav fell in battle during the Battle of Stiklestad. His sainthood arose from this death.

    Today Stiklestad feels like a bit of a tourist trap – they’ve built up all these new centres, exhibitions and hotels in the last 20 years – but there’s still historical interest in visiting here.

    You can read my separate guide to Stiklestad below.

    Stiklestad

    Levanger Town Centre

    Town

    Shortly after the Falstad Centre, we pass turn-offs to Levanger. If you want to visit the main street, just follow signs towards Levanger. I mentioned the history of Levanger town centre in the section about Levanger municipality.

    Munkeby Abbey Ruins

    Historic Site (Detour)

    Just after Levanger town is the turn-off to the ruins of Munkeby Abbey. It’s just a short drive from the E6, and is a nice area to go to stretch your legs.

    The Munkeby Abbey was founded some time between 1150 and 1180 and it was the most northly Cistercian foundation in the world. It was likely built by English monks. The monastery was eventually closed down, though the church was used until 1587.

    Falstad Centre

    WWWII Site (Detour)

    You can visit the Falstad Centre, which is an old concentration camp from World War II. Today it is a museum. Read a more detailed article below. 

    Falstad Centre

    Stjørdal Municipality

    We have arrived in Stjørdal, which has an amazing coat-of-arms! The design is modern but comes from the old medieval seal of Stjørdal, which dates from 1344. The dragon is a symbol of Saint Margaret of Antioch, and the old seal showed Saint Margaret standing on a slain dragon. It has always stood as a symbol for authority, power, and exalted dignity of the region.  Stjørdal is the location of Steinvikholm Castle, a nice detour.

    Steinviksholmen Castle

    Historic Site (Detour)

    How to get here:

    Steinviksholmen is clearly marked on Google Maps. It’s just off the E6 and marked with brown tourist signs the entire way. It’s about 10-15 minutes off the E6.

    The road is very narrow, and you’ll have to watch out for traffic coming the other way.

    —–

    Steinvikholmen Castle is a 16th century castle constructed by Norway’s last Roman Catholic Bishop, Olav Engelbrektsson. After meeting with the Pope, Olav’s resistance to the Danish rule and the Reformation escalated. Steinvikholm was built as the Catholic churches military stronghold. The castle was finished in 1532, but sadly for Olav the Reformation succeeded in 1537 and Olav was forced to flee to Lier. It was the last Catholic stronghold in Norway. When Olav fled, he left Saint Olav’s shrine and other treasures, and they were returned to Nidaros Cathedral in 1568.

    After the Reformation, the site was used as a quarry and some of its masonry was sold off. Since the late 19th century, the site has been owned and operated by the Past Memory Association (Fortidsminneforeningen). It is used as concert hall for a midnight opera, Olav Engelbrektsson, which details the life and struggles of the archbishop. The opera takes place annually.

    Steinvikholm Castle is Norway’s largest structure from the Middle Ages.

    In summer, it is open as a museum. There are also photographs and information boards (Norwegian and English) around the site. You can walk around the fortress for free, but the interior is what costs money. When we visited, we saw lots of kids swimming in the water around the fortress.

    You park on the mainland and pay a small fee (they use Vipps to accept parking payment), and then walk across the bridge (photographed) to the castle. The entrance is on the other side from my photos.

    Even if you aren’t interested in the castle, the surrounding scenery is gorgeous.

    Hell Station

    Train Station

    Hell is a small village by Trondheim Airport. The village has become a bit of a tourist attraction because of its name, which means “luck” in English. In modern Norwegian, the word for “hell” is “helvete”. The sign underneath says “Gods Expedition”, which actually means “Cargo Handling” in English. Stop by the train station and get a photo!

    Malvik Municipality

    Malvik is a small municipality just outside of Trondheim. It is one of the few municipalities in the area seeing population growth, with the population rising 13% of the last 10 years. Many people work in Trondheim. The coat-of-arms shows a black capercaillie, which is a symbol for the rich nature in the area.

    Trondheim Municipality

    Trondheim (South Sami name Tråante) is the third-most populous municipality in Norway, though it’s the fourth largest urban area. The settlement is a known Viking area, and Trondheim itself has many famous monuments from medieval times. There’s so much to say about Trondheim, so you can read a detailed overview by clicking the button below. 

    Trondheim

    We have now arrived in Trondheim! A detailed overview of Trondheim can be found on the travel guide section of The Hidden North. 

    This is the end of our two-week drive from Trondheim to Senja and back again. Be sure to check out our next series, summer in the West Fjords!

    Trondheim Travel Guide

    Previous Drive

    Narvik to Mo i Rana on the E6

    See the previous day’s drive on the E6 between Narvik and Mo i Rana

    Narvik to Mo i Rana

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Central Norway, Namsos, Norway's Coastal Road, Road-trips, Trondheim

    Drive it Yourself: Trondheim to Namsos on the E6

    Drive it Yourself: Trondheim to Namsos on the E6

    Welcome to my guide for the drive between Trondheim and Namsos. This drive primarily takes place on the European Highway 6, which runs practically the entire length of Norway. It is also partly the beginning of Norway’s coastal road (Kystriksveien), a famous scenic drive along a huge part of the coastline.

    While this drive may at first seem a little dull, there’s a lot of interesting places to visit along the way. There are sites that are important to Norway’s early Christianity years – Stiklestad, Munkeby Abbey. There are also historically significant places, such as Falstad ant Steinviksholm. Each place is a short detour off the E6 and a great way to break up the drive.

    Enjoy my guide to driving on the E6 (and Fv17) between Trondheim and Namsos!

    In this article...

    Download this Guide

    All of our guides can be downloaded via our online store. 

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

    View on Store

    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Information about facilities along the way

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the region & towns
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Facilities including supermarkets, toilets, petrol, hotels, cafes, restaurants with addresses.

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    Visit Our YouTube Channel

    The Drive: Trondheim to Namsos

    Trondheim

    This drive begins in historic Trondheim. You can easily spend a few days here – read my travel guide for more information. 

    Trondheim Travel Guide

    Hell Train Station

    Station

    For a fun photo stop, visit Hell train station just next to the Trondheim Airport. Hell in Norwegian means ‘luck’, but for us non-Norwegians, it’s kinda funny.

    Skatval Church

    Church

    You’ll see Skatval Church on the right-hand side as you leave the Trondheim Airport area. This is a beautiful church in the Swiss chalet style, which is fairly unique for churches in Norway.

    The church is from 1901 and seats about 440 people. The site has been used for churches for hundreds of years, and the first church on this site was possibly a stave church, but little is known about it. Another church was established here in the 17th century, and it survived until 1767, when it was torn down and replaced. In 1901, the church was replaced with a larger church.

    Steinviksholmen Castle

    Historic Site

    How to get here:

    Steinviksholmen is clearly marked on Google Maps. It’s just off the E6 and marked with brown tourist signs the entire way. It’s about 10-15 minutes off the E6.

    The road is very narrow, and you’ll have to watch out for traffic coming the other way.

    —–

    Steinvikholmen Castle is a 16th century castle constructed by Norway’s last Roman Catholic Bishop, Olav Engelbrektsson. After meeting with the Pope, Olav’s resistance to the Danish rule and the Reformation escalated. Steinvikholm was built as the Catholic churches military stronghold. The castle was finished in 1532, but sadly for Olav the Reformation succeeded in 1537 and Olav was forced to flee to Lier. It was the last Catholic stronghold in Norway. When Olav fled, he left Saint Olav’s shrine and other treasures, and they were returned to Nidaros Cathedral in 1568.

    After the Reformation, the site was used as a quarry and some of its masonry was sold off. Since the late 19th century, the site has been owned and operated by the Past Memory Association (Fortidsminneforeningen). It is used as concert hall for a midnight opera, Olav Engelbrektsson, which details the life and struggles of the archbishop. The opera takes place annually.

    Steinvikholm Castle is Norway’s largest structure from the Middle Ages.

    In summer, it is open as a museum. There are also photographs and information boards (Norwegian and English) around the site. You can walk around the fortress for free, but the interior is what costs money. When we visited, we saw lots of kids swimming in the water around the fortress.

    You park on the mainland and pay a small fee (they use Vipps to accept parking payment), and then walk across the bridge (photographed) to the castle. The entrance is on the other side from my photos.

    Even if you aren’t interested in the castle, the surrounding scenery is gorgeous.

    Levanger Municipality

    Levanger is a very old region, and it’s possibly a settlement from the Iron Age. Levanger is known from the Viking Age, as it is mentioned in the old sagas when it was ruled by a chieftain. Evidence of the Viking Age is found around the municipality in the form of burial mounds. The one by Alstadhaug Church, called Alvshaugen, is from 300-600 CE.

    Historically, Levanger was an important marketplace between Norway and Sweden. The town was ‘founded’ by King Charles XIV of Sweden on 18 May 1836, but there was an already well-established village. The market had been taking place there since the 13th century.

    Throughout the 19th century, the famous market’s economic importance faced, and it became more of a tradition than a viable market. When Norway was occupied during World War II, the German forces put a stop to the market. It was not until 1989 that the market was resumed, and it still takes place today. Still, it’s not important as it was pre-19th century.

    Today Levanger is also a working municipality. The world’s largest paper producing company, Norske Skog, had its first ever factory in Skogn. The factory is still there today and provides 530 jobs at the plant, plus 1900 jobs in transportation and forestry. Additionally, Levanger is an excellent area for agrictulture. The town has a hospital and a branch of Nord University.

    If you are looking for a place to visit, I recommend going to Alstahaug medieval church to see both the church and the Alvshaugen burial mound. If you want to go for a nice walk, consider visiting the Munkeby Abbey ruins and the Viking Age gravemounds at Gjeite. As you can see, there’s a lot to do here!

    We visit the Falstad concentration camp on this drive, but on the map I’ve included the above attractions.

    Vuddu Valley

    Restaurant

    Vuddu Valley is a unique place to stop for a meal. It’s completely inspired by the 1960s U.S. diners. The Norwegian owners bought a blue pickup truck in North Carolina, and it has served as inspiration for their diner. Additionally, they have a small museum with items mostly from the 1950s and 1960s.

    Click here to visit their website. 

    Frostatinget

    Historic Site

    This was an early Norwegian court that made up one of the four major “things” in Norway. It is arguably Norway’s oldest court, predating the Viking period. This is where chieftains would meet to discuss laws and events. The site has a huge stone marker on it.

    Falstad Centre

    Historic Site

    In the video, I go to Falstad concentration camp. It’s one of the most complete camps left in Norway, and today it is a memorial and information centre.

    I’ve written a separate article about Falstad Centre, which you can view via the button below.

    Falstad Centre

    Levanger

    Town

    Shortly after the Falstad Centre, we pass turn-offs to Levanger. If you want to visit the main street, just follow signs towards Levanger. I mentioned the history of Levanger town centre in the section about Levanger municipality.

    Munkeby Abbey Ruins

    Historic Site

    Just after Levanger town is the turn-off to the ruins of Munkeby Abbey. It’s just a short drive from the E6, and is a nice area to go to stretch your legs.

    The Munkeby Abbey was founded some time between 1150 and 1180 and it was the most northly Cistercian foundation in the world. It was likely built by English monks. The monastery was eventually closed down, though the church was used until 1587.

    Verdal Municipality

    People have lived at Verdal since the Stone Age, and there are farms in the region that are mentioned as far back as the 12th century. The municipality is best known for the site Stiklestad, where we are heading to next.

    A unique word to learn for this area is råning. It refers to all the young people here who are interested in cars. They spend a lot of their time improving or styling their cars and then driving them on a particular route to show them off.

    The economy here is supported by the offshore industry as well as agriculture. Verdal is also known as one of the greatest lottery towns of Norway, with several lottery grand prizes going to people living in Verdal.

    Stikelstad

    Historic Site

    Stiklestad is one of the most important religious sites in the country. It is where, in 1030, St. Olav fell in battle during the Battle of Stiklestad. His sainthood arose from this death.

    Today Stiklestad feels like a bit of a tourist trap – they’ve built up all these new centres, exhibitions and hotels in the last 20 years – but there’s still historical interest in visiting here.

    You can read my separate guide to Stiklestad below.

    Stiklestad

    Inderøy Municipality

    Inderøy is an agricultural municipality located in North Trøndelag. The municipality has been inhabited since the Middle Ages, and the village of Sakshaug used to be an important political centre. It is home to one of the oldest churches in the area, Old Sakshaug Church, from 1184.

    The coat-of-arms shows the European plaice. The fish was once plentiful int he waters and was one of the main sources of income in the area until around 1940. Fishing is still important to the region. Farming is also very important to the area, and most of the municipality is cultivated. Grass and grain are the most common crops, but strawberries are also common. Most farmers have their own forest, too.

    The population density is 19.4 inhabitants per sq km (50/sq mi). The population has increased by 15.9% over the last 10 years.

    One of the most prominent 20th century Norwegian sculptors, Nils Aas, is from this area.

    Old Sakshaug Church

    Church

    The church is about 12 minutes off the E6, and it’s in the middle of Sakshaug village. Old Sakshaug church was built between 1150 and 1180, and it is one of the oldest churches in Trøndelag county. The choir is the oldest part of the building. The choir was ‘modernised’ with Gothic details in the 1200s.

    Steinkjer Municipality

    Steinkjer is one of the larger municipalities in the region, though its population density is very low, with just 12.6 inhabitants per sq km (33 sq mi). The population has increased by 2.4% over the last 10 years. The coat-of-arms shows a verranjekt, a type of boat that is very common in the area. It’s a new coat-of-arms from 2020.

    The area around Steinkjer is historic – it has been populated since the Stone Age. Rock carvings can be seen in the area, and the oldest are 6,000 years old. During the Viking Age, Steinkjer was an important base and Maere was one of the best known religious places with sacrifices and gatherings before Christianity came to the country.

    The town of Steinkjer was sadly bombed during World War II. The attack destroyed a large part of Steinkjer, and many priceless historic buildings, including the church, were lost. The town was quickly rebuilt after the war with the help of aid from the United States. Much of the architecture found in Steinkjer is from the 1950s and 1960s and is inspired by functionalism. One of the few buildings to survive the bombing is the train station, which is designed in art nouveau.

    Steinkjer is one of the northernmost areas with rich agriculture, allowing large production of grain. You’ll notice as you drive through just how important grain production is to the area. Tall grain silos can be seen all over the landscape.

    The oldest church in the area is Maere Church. It’s just a few minutes off the E6, so we visit it.

    Mære Church

    Historic Site

    In the early Viking Age, according to the Sagas, Mære was one of the most important religious ceremonial places, with sacrifices to the Norse gods.

    The stone church was built in a long church style during the 12th century by an unknown architect. It’s noted for its medieval roof featuring the carvings of heads projecting form the top of its walls. Coins dating from the reign of King Sverre (1183-1202) have been found during excavations.

    Under the church are traces of the ‘hof’ (pagan worshipping site) that used to be on the side. It was uncovered during the 1950s and is the only case in Norway of a pre-Christian building being found to have existed on the site of a church. The nature of that structure was not clear.

    The church is just a few minutes off the E6. There is a huge parking lot outside the agricultural school, but you can also park by the church.

    Namsos

    You have arrived at our final stop, Namsos. From here, you can access Norway’s famous Coastal Road. 

    Namsos Travel Guide

    Continue the drive

    Norway's Coastal Road Part 3: Brønnøysund to Sandnessjøen

    See the first part of Norway’s Coastal Road.

    Brønnøysund to Sandnessjøen

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Central Norway, History, Trondheim

    Finding St. Olav at Stiklestad, an Important Christian Site in Norway

    Finding St. Olav at Stiklestad, an Important Christian Site in Norway

    If you’re in Trondheim or driving around it, one of the places you can visit nearby is Stiklestad. Stiklestad is a small agricultural village with a big story: it was the site of the most famous battle in Norwegian history. The Battle of Stiklestad is when Norway’s Saint Olav was killed in battle in 1030.
    Today Stiklestad is not so much a town as it is a huge shrine to St. Olav. Even if you aren’t religious or even know who St. Olav was, there’s something fascinating about this place. It’s basically an open field full of monuments, churches and chapels, plus some places designed to bring in tourist dollars.
    I visited Stiklestad this year while driving from Trondheim to Namsos. I must admit I was a little disappointed; I felt the attractions (most of which were built in the last 20 years) were too focused on kids on summer holidays. Still, I love Norwegian history and wanted to visit.
    Here’s my overview of Stiklestad.

    In this article...

    The E6 Highway

    The Falstad Centre is located on the E6, Norway’s main highway. You can find my guide to the E6 by clicking the link below. 

    The E6 Highway
    Trondheim Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    History of Olav & Stiklestad

    Who was Saint Olav?

    Olav (or Olaf, depending on where in the world you are) was not born into the sainthood life, the sainthood life chose him. He was born around 995 as the son of a petty king in Vestfold, though he was the great-great-grandchild of Harald Fairhair, Norway’s first king. He was raised in England, where he became influenced by Catholicism. He decided to return to his home country and try to convert the people, who were mostly pagan at the time. Additionally, Olav saw it as his calling to unite Norway as one country. In 1015, Olav returned to Norway and declared himself king. At the time, Norway was divided into petty kingdoms. Olav was able to get five of them on his side, mostly in the south.
    Olav is widely accredited with Christianising Norway, though some historians debate the influence he had. What many historians do agree on is that Olav was particularly violent in the ways he Christianised the people: he would travel to the small villages and tell them to become Christian, or he’d kill them. Many stave churches were erected during this time to appease Olav. It’s believed Olav used Christianity as a means to get control over Norway.
    Olav was known as a strong fighter, and during his time as the Norwegian king, he took part in several battles around the North and Baltic Seas. In these battles, he succeeded, asserting his suzerainty in the Orkney Islands, raiding Denmark, and making peace with Sweden. His success was short-lived, though. In 1029, the Norwegian nobles were tired of Olav and supported the invasion of King Cnut the Great in Denmark. Olav was driven to exile in Russia. He returned to Norway in 1029 but fell at the Battle of Stikelstad in 1030. King Cnut ruled Norway for five years after the battle, but their regency was unpopular and Olav’s illegitimate son Magnus (the Good) lay claim to the Norwegian throne.

    The Battle of Stiklestad

    The Battle of Stiklestad is one of the most famous battles in Norwegian history. This is the battle where Olav died. Now, the authenticity of the battle as a historical event is subject to question. There are differing stories about Olav’s death, but for argument’s sake, we will use the most commonly told story.
    As mentioned above, Olav returned to Norway after a short stint in exile in 1029. Olav and his 3,600 men travelled through Sweden before arriving at Stikelstad, a small farm in the lower part of the valley Verdal. When at Stiklestad, Olav and his men met an army led by Harek of Tjøtta and some men who had previously served Olav. The men were tired of the king’s brutal methods in converting the people to Christianity. There are conflicting stories as to who killed Olav – either it was his own, some men in an ambush, or a cowardly assault by strangers. However, this battle would cause Olav’s death.
    According to the sagas, Olav received three severe wounds – in the knee, neck, and finally, a spear through his stomach. This battle took place on the 29th of July, a day now full of festivities in Stiklestad.
    After his death, his body was laid in a sandy bank in Trondheim. According to the sagas, a farmer from Stiklestad buried the body here. The following year the grave was taken up ad given a new grave outside St. Clements Church. Shortly after, the coffin was again moved into the church that would eventually become Nidaros Cathedral. It’s written that Olav’s body was intact, sweet-scented and with hair and nails having grown since his death. A well close to where his body lay was believed to have healing powers. Olav was canonised on the 3rd of August 1031 by Bishop Grimkjell in Norway. In 1164, Pope Alexander III declared Olav a saint.
    There is little historical connection between the battle and the Christianisation of Norway, but the battle is still considered an important part of Christianity in Norway.

    Shrines & Sainthood

    After Olav became a saint, a cult around Olav was quickly formed, and it is widely accredited for unifying the country. In that sense, Olav was successful in unifying Norway – it was just after his death.
    Olav’s shrine at Nidaros quickly became an important pilgrimage site, and it is first mentioned in history in 1070. By this time, he was already referred to as Norway’s eternal king. The shrine was the resting place for his remains and it sat behind the high altar in Nidaros Cathedral in Trondheim.
    There were three shrines to Olav. The first was the original wooden coffin from Stiklestad, covered by an expensive cloth. The second was a costly shrine that was made by King Magnus Olavsson, Olav’s son. The third shrine was covered in silver and covered the other two shrines. Olav’s shrine is no more, though. After the Reformation, the shrine was taken out of Nidaros Cathedral. It’s believed to have been lost on a shipwreck on the Trondheim Fjord on its way to Copenhagen. All valuables from Nidaros were smashed and taken to Copenhagen for melting. From the shrine holding Olav came 2.6kg of silver and several gold plates. Denmark has never paid any compensation to Norway for the destruction of St. Olav’s Shrine and the theft of silver and jewels.
    It’s believed that the original wooden coffin was kept and buried at Steinvikholm when the Archbishop was fleeing during the Reformation. However, 24 years after the Reformation was the Nordic Seven-Year War, and the Swedes occupied the area. They moved the wooden coffin to Fløan Chapel and then to Nidaros Cathedral. They put it back under the cathedral, but the exact location is unknown. Later on, when the area was back under Danish control, the Danish minister let “earth fill the grave of St. Olav’s body” to put an end to the pilgrimages. Many historians have tried to find the coffin but have been unsuccessful. There are many medieval graves in Nidaros, and historians think it’s one of them.

    Olav Around Europe

    Olav became very popular in Scandinavia, and many churches in Sweden, Iceland, and Norway are dedicated to him. His presence was even felt in Finland and many travelled to visit his shrine. It is possible still today to do the Pilgrims Way (Pilegrimsleden) from Oslo to Nidaros Cathedral. The journey is 640km and is done by hundreds of people each year.

    Apart from the early traces of a cult in England, there are only scattered references to him outside the Nordic area. Several churches in England were dedicated to him, including St. Olave’s Church in York, St. Olave Hart Street in the City of London, and St. Olave’s Church south of the London Bridge.

    Places with References to Olav

    • The basilica of the Sant’Ambrogio e Carlo al Corso in Rome has a chapel of St. Olav
    • In Germany, there used to be a shrine of St. Olav in Koblenz
    • In the Faroe Islands, the day of St. Olav’s death is a national holiday
    • The town of Ulvila in Finland uses St. Olav on their coat of arms
    • Normandy uses Saint Olav as an important figure and was chosen unofficially as the patron saint of the Normans. The normand flag has been called the St. Olav Cross.
    • A bone from St. Olav’s arm is kept as a relic in the crypt of the Rouen Cathedral.
    • Olav’s Chapel in Covarrubias, Spain
    • Olaf’s Church is the tallest church in Tallinn, Estonia. There are many churches named after St. Olav in Estonia
    • Saint Olaf Catholic church in Minneapolis. There are multiple St. Olav churches in North America
    • The oldest picture of St. Olav is painted on a column in the Church of the Nativity in Bethlehem
    • Olaf street in Lerwick, Scotland

    Stiklestad: What you can see and do

    The village of Stikelstad

    Stiklestad is a very small village that has primarily been used for agriculture since it was settled.
    Due to its association with Norwegian cultural history, between 1934 and 1944 Vidkun Quisling’s Nationalist Nasjonal Samling party held several rallies at Stiklestad in an attempt to link the party of Norway’s historic part. A special Nasjonal Samling monument was erected there in July 1944 but was demolished after the war.
    Click here to see a photo of the monument. 

    Stiklestad Visitor Centre

    People have been visiting Stiklestad ever since the battle in 1030, but it’s only in recent times that the location has been turned into more of a destination. Most of the structures and attractions have only been built in the last 20 years.
    The Stiklestad National Cultural Centre was established in 1995. However, monuments have been here since shortly after the battle. It’s believed the first monument was put up in medieval times, and the church was also established soon after.
    The visitor centre has some indoor exhibitions, but practically all the items inside are replicas. Still, it’s a good place to go to get an understanding of the importance of Olav in Norway. They also have a souvenir shop and a cafe.
    There is a huge free carpark by the visitor centre, which is where you’ll park.

    Stiklestad Church

    The church is the closest attraction to the visitor centre, and in my opinion it is the most important thing to see when in Stiklestad because it is closest in age to the Battle.
    Stiklestad Church was built in a Romanesque style around 1180. Construction was initiated by Archbishop Øystein Erlendsson, and it’s believed the site the church is built on is the place where Olav was killed. The stone that Olav was laying on as he died is supposedly still inside the altar of the church.
    Most of the interior decoration is post-Reformation. Today the church is a Lutheran Church. Only the richly decorated baptismal font is preserved from the medieval times. It’s from the 14th century. You’ll find some medieval decorative elements on the outside of the church, especially around the southern and northern portals.
    The most unique thing to see on the church is one of the sculptures on the northern side of the church. It is a woman squatting, lifting her skirt, and having sex. This ‘Sheelanagig’ figure is found throughout Trøndelag and it is also common in England, Ireland, and northern France. ‘Sheelanagig’ may be associated with fertility and protection against evil forces. This is a pre-Christian belief, so it’s interesting that it’s on a Christian church.
    In summer they do open the church to the public. You can book a guided tour from the Visitor Centre, which I’d highly recommend if interested in history.

    St. Olav's Chapel (Russian Orthodox)

    St. Olav’s Chapel is a Russian Orthodox church building from 2003. The chapel belongs to Saint Olga, a Russian Orthodox congregation in Oslo.

    St. Olav's Chapel (Catholic)

    There is another Saint Olav’s Chapel in Stiklestad. This one is a Catholic chapel from 1930, built for the 900th anniversary of the Battle of Stiklestad.

    Olavsstøtta

    This is a monument from 1807 in memory of the Battle of Stiklestad. The memorial is one of the oldest preserved public monuments in Norway. The monument is built on Olavhaugen with a view of Stiklestadsletta where the church is located. According to tradition, the monument was erected on the spot where the shed in which Olav was laid after he fell is said to be located.

    There are some legends that the monument has healing effects. A travelling violinist fell ill while going from Russia to Norway, but he recovered when he arrived at Stikelstad and touched the stone.

    The Middle Ages Centre

    The Middle Ages Centre is a farm that consists of a longhouse, smithy, and other small warehouses. The longhouse was completed in 2009 to try and show what a longhouse would’ve looked like at the end of the Viking Age. The longhouse is primarily to teach about the late Viking age and tell stories about the transition from the Norse pre-Christian society to the medieval society based on the Christian faith.

    Folk Museum

    Close by is the Folk Museum, a collection of 30 buildings from the surrounding farms. The buildings are typically from between the 17th and 19th centuries. There are also nearly 30,000 objects from these nearby properties. The goal of the museum is to document the history of farming in the Verdal valley.

    Plan Your Visit

    Where is Stiklestad?

    Stiklestad is 90 minutes north-east of Trondheim, making it a very reasonable day-trip if you want to get out of the city. Just follow the E6 north and you’ll see brown tourist signs indicating where to turn off to get to Stiklestad. I highly recommend going with a car.  It seems there are no direct buses from Trondheim.

    Finding your way around

    Once you’ve parked your car, it’s fairly easy to find your away around Stiklestad. To get to most attractions, it’s highly recommended to walk. Parking is not possible outside most places.

    The village is built on a slope, with the longhouse being on a hill. I would say it’s a 15 minute walk from the centre. Additionally, most of the area is an open field so it’s grassy to walk on.

    In the map above, I’ve provided an overview of where everything is. 

    Opening hours/prices

    To stay up-to-date with the opening hours and prices, I recommend checking out the Stiklestad website directly by clicking here.

    Parking is free.

    Most of the attractions are outdoors, so you can see them for free. The vast majority of activities take place during summer, between the end of June and middle of August. Honestly, a lot of the activities are centred around children. Still, if you want a historical or informative experience, you can book a guide.

    Spending the night

    There is a hotel in the main centre – the Scandic Stiklestad – where you can stay the night.

    Share your thoughts!

    This is all I have to say about Stiklestad. We spent about an hour here before heading out. We were more interested in Olavsstotta and the Stiklestad Church, both of which have some historic merit. The story of St. Olav and his importance still today is fascinating, but sadly the site where he was killed is so lacking in authentic history that it’s a little hard to find Stiklestad more than a bit of a tourist trap.

    The E6 Highway

    The Falstad Centre is located on the E6, Norway’s main highway. You can find my guide to the E6 by clicking the link below. 

    The E6 Highway
    Trondheim Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide
  • Trondheim, World War II

    Visiting the Falstad Centre, one of the Most Important WWII Centres in Norway

    Visiting the Falstad Centre, one of the Most Important WWII Centres in Norway

    I am always interested in visiting World War II sites, and when roadtripping around Norway I try to visit some of them. The Falstad Centre has been on my list of a while, mostly because it is one of the only prison camps that is still somewhat standing. Norway did have a number of prison camps across the country, but efforts were made to tear them down after the war. At Falstad, you can see the main building still. So, when Sean and I did our Coastal Roadtrip from Trondheim to Senja, we included a stop here.

    The Falstad Centre today is a national memorial site. There are two sites to visit: the Falstad prison camp and the Falstad woods. Additionally, the Falstad Centre has some indoor exhibitions chronicling the use of the camp and occupation of Norway. When we did our Coastal Roadtrip, we only visited the outside (closed due to COVID). Still, they have put up some information boards outside so it is definitely worth visiting. Here’s what we saw when we visited Falstad, plus some information about the history of the camp.

    In this article...

    The E6 Highway

    The Falstad Centre is located on the E6, Norway’s main highway. You can find my guide to the E6 by clicking the link below. 

    The E6 Highway
    Trondheim Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    History of Falstad Centre

    The Camp's Early Use

    If driving from the E6 (European Highway 6), the first stop will the prison camp. Today all that remains is the yellow administration building; most of the wooden barracks were torn down at the end of the war. The commandants house is still visible, too. Parking is free outside, and you will find some information boards outside with images of what the camp used to look like.

    Originally, Falstad was a boarding school for ‘troubled’ boys. The site was originally a farm called Nordre Falstad (Falstad was the farmers name), but the boarding school bought the property in 1895. The school’s purpose was to serve the needs of the ‘misguided’ rather than criminal boys. While at school, they were not only educated but made to do manual labour jobs. Around fifty boys lived here ranging in age from 10 to 18 years old.

    Nazi Germany invaded Norway on the 9th of April 1940. The Nazi German authorities first came to Falstad in August 1941 with plans to make it a centre for the ‘Lebensborn’ program in Norway. The Lebensborn program was an initiative to raise the birth rate of Aryan children amongst ‘racially pure’ parents. In total, Norway had 9 Lebensborn centres – the highest number outside of Germany.
    The site was not used for the Lebensborn program. Instead, they saw its use as a concentration camp. Just a month after their visit, Falstad accepted its first prisoners.

    Prisoners & Life at Falstad

    It is not known how many prisoners passed through here; the camp authorities burned what documents they could before the liberation in 1945. However, estimates are that at least 4,500 prisoners passed through Falstad. Many of them were prisoners of war, and in total at least 13 countries passed through here. The largest group were Yugoslav prisoners. The main characteristic of the camp was forced, hard, and largely meaningless labour. The period between spring 1942 and the autumn of 1943 is the most brutal time in the history of the camp. The prisoners had to work at high speed as slave labourers on pointless projects.

    Jewish Deportation

    Falstad was also used as a transit camp for the Jewish population facing deportation. Trondheim had a sizeable Jewish population that were rounded up and eventually deported to Auschwitz. Falstad was the place they would come to before being sent to Oslo, where the ship was waiting. At least eight Jews were murdered during detention at Falstad.

    Post-war Use

    When the war ended, Falstad was used as a prison for former members of the Norwegian Nazi party as well as prisoners suspected of having supported the Nazis. Then, until the 1990s, it was used as a school once again.

    Use of the Building Today

    After the school closed in the late 1990s, the building became a memorial site and centre for human rights. The Falstad Centre is now used for education and documenting the wartime history of prisoners of war and human rights.

    If you want to learn more about the use of Falstad as a prison camp, I recommend visiting the indoor exhibitions. The Falstad Centre exhibitions focus on the history of the Falstad prison camp and particularly the story and fate of the prisoners. The exhibition also shows the rise of Nazism, the Holocaust, and how the Nazi camp system operated. The Falstad Centre has also made a digital reconstruction of the camp so you can see how it looked during the war.

    Visiting the Falstad Woods (Falstadskogen)

    After visiting the yellow building, get in your car and drive a few minutes to the next stop: the Falstad Woods. Park your car across the street and then head over to the large memorial statue. The memorial depicts prisoners about to be executed by German authorities. It is by the sculptor Odd Hilt, who was a prisoner at Falstad and managed to escape to Sweden. The prisoners have clear facial features, while the soldiers have faceless, anonymous features.

    The Falstad Woods is one of the most sombre World War II sites in Norway. The woods were an execution site by the German occupation authorities, particularly for prisoners of war. The first executions took place on the 7th of March 1942. When the war was coming to an end, the Germans took some of the bodies and sunk them in the Trondheimsfjord. Additionally, some prisoners were executed at nearby fortresses. It’s not known exactly how many people were executed here. On top of that, it’s believed that not all the bodies have been found in the woods yet.

    The victims were at least 43 Norwegians, 74 Yugoslavs, and more than 100 Soviet citizens. The prison camp was hardest on the Yugoslavs, who were often executed soon after arriving at the camp. Many of the Norwegian victims were members of the resistance movement. At least 200 people were executed here, but those at the centre now believe that number to be low. They are still making efforts to find, exhume, and properly bury the victims. A list of some of the known victims are on Lokalhistoriewiki.no (in Norwegian).
    https://lokalhistoriewiki.no/wiki/Falstad_fangeleir

    Information about the victims can also be found in the Falstad Centre.

    You can walk through the woods today. On the ground you will find markers; these state that someone is buried there. Please take extra care in staying on the path; the markers are not always so obvious.

    It is possible to walk between the Falstad Centre and the Falstad Woods; a marked path will take you past the graves and memorial. The trail is about 2km long one way. There are 22 bridges that you’ll pass along the way. Maps can be collected from the Falstad Centre.

    Practical Information

    Everything you need to know about visiting the Falstad Centre can be found on their excellent website, https://falstadsenteret.no/en/frontpage. I would recommend booking a guided tour to truly understand how this area was used as a prison camp. The Falstad Centre offers guided tours in English and Norwegian.

    The museum has information in multiple languages, including English and Norwegian. The Falstad Centre has also digitally recreated the layout of the camp, and you can pick up a tablet from reception with the digital reconstruction on it.

    The E6 Highway

    The Falstad Centre is located on the E6, Norway’s main highway. You can find my guide to the E6 by clicking the link below. 

    The E6 Highway
    Trondheim Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide
  • Hurtigruten, Trondheim, Walking Guides

    Trondheim Self-Guided Walking Tour: Medieval History & Everyday Life

    Trondheim Self-Guided Walking Tour: Medieval History & Everyday Life

    Trondheim is best explored on foot, and if you get the chance I highly recommend it over a bus tour. You can pass some historically important cities as well as modern wonders. For my Trondheim self-guided walking tour, I’ve mapped out a path that I like to take.

    This walk is designed for those on Hurtigruten; it starts and ends at the pier. If you are travelling to Trondheim without Hurtigruten, you can still do this walk. However, I’m going to put together a separate walking path for non-Hurtigruten visitors because you get much more time to explore the city 🙂 For now, though, here’s the walk.

    In this article...

    The E6 Highway

    Trondheim is located on the E6, Norway’s main highway. You can find my guide to the E6 by clicking the link below. 

    The E6 Highway
    Trondheim Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Norway's Coastal Ferry

    Tromsø is a port of call of Norway’s coastal ferry. Find my guide for the coastal ferry by clicking the link below. 

    Norway's Coastal Ferry

    Downloadable Version of This Guide

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided walks on our online store. 

    View at the Store

    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Information about facilities along the way

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the region & towns
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Facilities including supermarkets, toilets, petrol, hotels, cafes, restaurants with addresses.
    • Link to an online map to load into your phone

    The walk: Trondheim

    Pirsenteret

    Pirsenteret is part of the new development this part of Trondheim is seeing. It has historically been a major industrial area with shipping ports and rail connections, but since the late 1990s, there has been an urban renewal program. Pirsenteret is a modern school, shopping & office complex.

    Rockheim

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    Rockheim is Norway’s national museum for popular music and it also includes the Rock Hall of Fame for established Norwegian bands, the most internationally famous being A-Ha.

    Visit the Rockheim Museum website

    Trondheim Central Station

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    A railway station was first built in Trondheim in 1864, and in 1877 a new station (the one we see today) was built to serve the Meråker Line to Sweden, which has since become the Nordland Line to Bodø. The older building is the Nordland Line, whereas the newer post-modernist building was built in 1921 for the Dovre Line, which connects Trondheim to Oslo. Today Vy serves the station with express trains to Oslo and Bodø, regional trains to Røros and Ostersund in Sweden, and the local Trøndelag commuter rail.

    The Last Viking Statue

    This statue is to reflect on the fishing traditions that have existed in the area for the centuries. The name comes from a popular book with the same name, written by Johan Bojer. The quote says: “In winter, they would sail 500 nautical miles to Lofoten in their open boats. Perhaps it was only the hint of profit that lured them, but perhaps it was also because of the open sea, they were free men.”

    The statue is situated next to Ravnkloa, which has been a Trondheim port and fish market for centuries, though it was first mentioned in history in 1619. You can see the modern fish market, built in the early 2000s, just behind the statue.

    Stiftsgården

    Stiftsgården is a true highlight of Trondheim; this massive timber building has a fascinating history. It was built between the years 1774-1778 for Cecilie Christine Schøller (1720-1786), who was a wealthy widow of a merchant who had passed away in 1769. She was looking for a private townhouse to settle down in, so she had this 140-room or 4,000m2 (43,000ft2) house built for just her. When the house was finished, she barely used it as she travelled abroad often. When Cecilie passed away in Copenhagen in 1786, the house had been rented by her son-in-law, General Georg Frederik von Krogh (1732-1818), and his son inherited the building. Stiftsgården was sold to the state in 1800 for 10,000 rigsdaler (about 26,427 NOK today) and went through various functions, serving as the house for the Governor, the law courts, and a residence for the visiting Danish Royal Family.

    When Norway became part of Sweden in 1814, the house was used for the coronation of King Carl Johan III (1818). It became the royal residence for the Swedish monarchy, and all Swedish Kings were coronated here. After Norway gained her independence in 1905, it officially became the royal residence of Trondheim, and King Haakon VII and Queen Maud (1906) were coronated here. Each Norwegian king has since had a benediction in Trondheim (as they are now a purely representative figurehead), and the procession has always started from Stiftsgården before reaching Nidaros Cathedral.

    The exterior of the building is very much in its original form, but the interior has changed extensively. The garden was separated as a public park in 1906, and that’s our next stop.

    Stiftsgården Park

    Inside the park, you’ll get a lovely view of Stiftsgården, and you’ll also see a statue of Olav V looking out to the palace. Olav V was always seen as the people’s king, and he was very popular in Trondheim. The statue was placed here in 1997 as part of Trondheim’s 1000-year birthday celebrations.

    Torvet

    The square was designed as part of Cicignon’s town plan of 1681, and before it was laid out the area was a known market square. Torvet has just undergone a major renovation, and nearby archaeological digs have uncovered the original market square. Trust me, the last few years have been terrible at Torvet: construction, congestion and the statue was hard to see. Since 2003, Torvet has been home to Trondheim’s annual Christmas market. The statue is of Olav Tryggvason (Olav I) and it was placed here in 1921. He is 3.5m high and stands on a pedestal that’s 14.5m high. In his left hand is a communion chalice and in his right hand is a sword. At his feet is the head of the god Thor, which symbolises the King’s victory over the pagans. Poor Thor.

    Church of Our Lady

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    Vår Frue Kirke is the third-largest preserved Middle Age church in Norway and first built in the late 1100s. It’s believed that the first version of this church may have been built by King Harald Hardråde (1015-1066) as his saga mentions him building a church near Nidaros Cathedral in 1060. The church has been rebuilt and expanded multiple times due to fires, and got its current appearance in the 19th century, though the tower was built in the early 18th century.

    In 2004, the church was included in the Directorate of Cultural Heritage’s list of 12 churches of national significance. Today Vår Frue Kirke functions as a missionary church, serving lunch to those in need.

    Trondheim Courthouse

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    Trondheim Courthouse was completed in 1951, though construction began before the Second World War. The foundation stone was laid by cabinet minister Trygve Lie, who later became the UN General Secretary. In 2003, the courthouse was merged with other municipalities to become the Sør-Trøndelag District Court (South Trøndelag). The judicial duties of this court are mainly to settle criminal cases and resolve civil litigation. The administrative tasks include death registration, certificate issuing, performing duties of a notary public, and officiating civil wedding ceremonies.

    Trondheim Cathedral School

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    Trondheim Cathedral School is the oldest school in Norway, founded in 1152 as ‘Scholae Cathedralis Nidrosiensis’. It has been in at least five different locations since its founding and moved to its present building in 1786. The school was further expanded in 1960.

    Across the street is the National Museum of Decorative Arts, which opened in 1986 and exhibits textiles, glass, silverwork, costumes, furniture and ceramics from all over Europe.

    Military Buildings

    The Non-Commissioned Officers Academy (Munkegata 6)

    This building was built in 1812-1814 for the Engineer Corps as a depot and was also used as a training college for non-commissioned officers. From 1930 it served as the Officers Academy, which moved in 1975.

    The Exercise House (Munkegata 4)

    The exercise house was built in 1806 as a gym and training centre for soldiers in Trondheim. The gymnasium was 350m2.

    The Military Bakery (Munkegata 2)

    The military bakery was built between 1808 and 1810. It served as a bakery for the military until 1870, after which it became a cobbler and tailors workshop.

    Trondheim City Hall

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    Trondheim City Hall was originally built as the Technical College in 1895, but in 1929 it became the City Hall.

    Nidaros Cathedral

    The iconic Nidaros Cathedral is the northernmost medieval cathedral in the world and is Norway’s national sanctuary.

    Nidaros Cathedral is worthy of its own page, which will come soon.

    Visit the Nidaros Cathedral Website

    Archbishop's Residence

    The Archbishops Palace was originally constructed in 1152 when the Episcopal seat was founded. The stone building we can see now dates back to around 1500. The building served as the residence of the Archbishop until the Reformation when the Danish King confiscated the building and renamed it Kongsgården. During the Danish union, the feudal overlords were based here, and from the end of the 1600s, it was used as a military depot with an arsenal and textile store for the northern troops.

    Today the Archbishop’s Palace is a museum that displays the foundations uncovered during archaeological excavations as well as the statues from Nidaros Cathedral that were recovered in the 19th century. It’s a fascinating museum but sadly there isn’t enough time to visit it during the Hurtigruten stay. Just an excuse to come back to Trondheim!

    Pilgrims Route

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    The 640km (400 miles) journey begins in Oslo’s Old Town and continues north along Lake Mjøsa, up the Gudbrandsdalen valley, over the Dovrefjell mountain range, down the Oppdal valley, and then finishes in front of Nidaros Cathedral. Once you arrive at Nidaros, the nearby Pilgrims Centre (which is located where you are currently standing) has a certificate for you. You have to “sign-in” to special places along the way and collect stamps in your “Pilgrims Passport”.

    The route can be traced back to the Iron Age when it was used as a highway for merchants and travellers. Around 700 Viking-era grave mounds have been discovered in the Oppdal valley, indicating that it was also used by the Vikings. The road was used for hundreds of years, and many settlements along the way developed as places for the travellers to rest and get food. In the mountains, special houses (fjellstue) were built for travellers to seek shelter. It served as a road until the railway line Rørosbanen opened on the 13th of October 1877, connecting Hamar and Trondheim via Elverum and Røros, and then the Dovre Line connected Oslo to Trondheim in 1921. The thought of crossing mountains suddenly lost its appeal and the train sounded much more comfortable, so travel along the road died out.

    Today people still use the Pilgrims Route and it even has a website where you can find sections of the route to complete and tourist attractions along the way. Very few people complete the entire journey, but some parts of it are very popular.

    Gamle Bybro

    The bridge was originally built in 1681 to provide better access to the Kristiansten Fortress. It had a toll booth and a guardhouse with guards at each end – the western guardhouse remains today and is the red concrete building you just passed. Today it’s a kindergarten!

    The archway on the bridge is known as the ‘gateway to happiness’. The warehouses date back to the olden times when extensive trade took place here. In the time of King Sverre (1177-1202), the quays were used as defence barriers. The River Nid runs through Trondheim. It is the northern part of the 153km-long watercourse that has its source in Nesjon in Sweden (950m above sea level). Hydroelectric plants along the river produce electricity to Trondheim and the surrounding areas. The river has been used for industrial purposes since the Middle Ages.

    Trampe

    This is the only bicycle lift in the world. It was installed in 1993 and has a length of 130m, a height of 24m and a gradient that varies from 1:11 to 1:5. The speed is 2m per second and the lift has a capacity of 288 cyclists per hour, with a maximum of 5 cyclists simultaneously. To use it, you stay on your bike and put your right foot over the silver beam. When you press the button, the beam starts pushing you up the hill, and a little footrest will take you to the top.

    Bakklandet

    Bakklandet is an authentic look into old Trondheim. Technically the first suburb of the city, Bakklandet was built up throughout the 17th century as a poor area where seamen, fishermen and manual workers lived in small wooden houses. It was not part of the town plan of 1681, so it developed naturally and not in a grid pattern. Also, as Bakklandet was not part of Trondheim, it was able to continue building in wood. Bakklandet was incorporated into Trondheim in 1847.

    Bakklandet has historically been an industrial area, and from the Middle Ages, a brick factory was located along the river. Today the company is known as “Trondhjems Aktieteglverk”, and brick from Bakklandet had a reputation for high quality. The area was also key for boat building, and from the 1600s boats were being repaired here. Bakklandet has been the victim of the Swedish raids as well as redevelopment. During the siege in 1658, Swedish troops burned down the area, and in 1718 Bakklandet was destroyed by the Norwegian side in an attempt to defend the city. The area was in decline for most of the 20th century and it was anticipated that it would be condemned and demolished, with a highway to be built over it. However, the locals complained and in 1983 a decision was made to preserve the historic houses.

    Today Bakklandet is one of the most charming areas in Trondheim and has many well-cared for (now very expensive!) houses and distinctive cafes. By following Nedre Bakklandet, you’ll get a taste of this lovely picturesque area.

    Seafarers Museum

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    Trondheim Seafarers Museum contains exhibitions around fishing and trading in Trondheim throughout history until the present day, but this wasn’t always the function fo the building. it was originally a defensive structure, and around 1725 a Corps de Garde with a slavery was erected. The current building was built in 1784 after the slavery was moved to Skansen. A slavery was a building where hard punishment was carried out by criminal prisoners. They were common in the 18th century and abolished in the 19th century. This one was one of the last ones standing, lasting until 1885.

    Leif Ericson Monument

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    This statue was given as a gift to the city in connection with the millennium celebrations in 1997. the statue is dedicated to the many thousands of emigrants who left for America in the 19th/20th centuries. The statue is an exact copy of the original that stands in Seattle.

    Leif Ericson was a Norse explorer from Iceland (his parents settled there from Norway) who is believed to be the first European to set foot on continental North America, before Christopher Columbus. He attempted to establish a Norse settlement at Vinland, considered today to be the northern tip of Newfoundland in Canada.

    The E6 Highway

    Trondheim is located on the E6, Norway’s main highway. You can find my guide to the E6 by clicking the link below. 

    The E6 Highway
    Trondheim Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Norway's Coastal Ferry

    Tromsø is a port of call of Norway’s coastal ferry. Find my guide for the coastal ferry by clicking the link below. 

    Norway's Coastal Ferry
  • Central Norway, History, Hurtigruten, Trondheim

    The History of Trondheim: Vikings, Christianity & World War II

    The History of Trondheim

    Trondheim is one of Norway’s most important historic cities. The history of Trondheim is like reading from the Norse sagas. It was inhabited during the Viking Age and was chosen as the place where the Vikings, who were raised in England under Catholicism, would land in an attempt to Christianise the pagan Norwegians. There are two Olavs accredited with this – who you’ll learn about below – and today one of them is buried under Nidaros Cathedral, one of Norway’s most important churches. After suffering fire after fire, the city became less important, but today it is noted for its prestigious University and fascinating town centre.

    Here’s my summary of the history of Trondheim: everything you need to know before you go.

    In this article...

    The E6 Highway

    Trondheim is located on the E6, Norway’s main highway. You can find my guide to the E6 by clicking the link below. 

    The E6 Highway
    Trondheim Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Norway's Coastal Ferry

    Tromsø is a port of call of Norway’s coastal ferry. Find my guide for the coastal ferry by clicking the link below. 

    Norway's Coastal Ferry

    The pre-history of Trondheim

    The history of Trondheim begins thousands of years ago. People have lived here since the BCs, as evidenced by the 300+ rock carvings that have been found in the area. They depict not just the animals of the region (elk, red deer, halibut, salmon, etc), but also show people gathering, hunting and fishing.

    Before Trondheim was officially founded, the area was known as Øretinget. An Øretinget is an assembly for representatives from each reason, who would meet to award legal judgements and pass laws. It eventually developed into an assembly where the King of Norway was proclaimed, and it’s believed that Harald Fairhair was proclaimed at this assembly. 

    The Early Years & Battle for Christianity

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    Olav Tryggvason

    Trondheim was officially founded in the year 997 by Olav Tryggvason (960s-1000), a Viking King who had returned from England to Christianise Norway. He established Nidaros, as the town was called, on the edge of the river Nid, which twists around the peninsula before emptying into the fjord. 

    Olav’s goal was to resist and Christianise the pagans, which was the main religion at the time. While he did find some success, he was killed in the Battle of Svolder in 1000. 

     

    Olav Haraldsson (St. Olav)

    Shortly after Olav Tryggvason’s death, another Olav decided to become king of Norway. A descendent of the first King Harald Fairhair, Olav Haraldsson had been a Viking since the age of 12, travelling throughout Northern Europe. He returned to Norway in 1015 to establish himself as the King in Trondheim. To cement this title, he built himself a wooden church, St. Clemens, shortly after. 

    Olav II also wanted to Christianise Norway, but he had a slightly different approach than Olav I. His approach was to travel to the small villages, meet the locals, and tell them to become Christian or he’ll kill them. This brutal plan was effective; once a village knew that Olav II was visiting, they’d quickly build a Christian church over their old pagan worshipping site. Many of these churches are stave churches: Catholic wooden churches with pagan motifs on them. 

    Eventually, and perhaps unsurprisingly, Olav II’s methods made some wealthy pagans angry. Olav was forced to flee to Russia in 1028 but decided to come back to Trondheim the following year. As he was making his return, he was met by the angry pagans in Stiklestad (95km/51 miles away), who killed him in the
    Battle of Stiklestad     in 1030. 

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    Battle of Stiklestad 1030

    Stiklestad

    I visited Stiklestad in 2021 and wrote about all the places you can visit that relate to this famous battle and st. Olav. You can read my guide to Stiklestad below.  

    Stiklestad

    St. Olav & the First Church Construction

    After he died, his followers secretly took Olav’s body to Trondheim and buried him somewhere near the present-day Nidaros Cathedral. Strange things began to happen. There was an eclipse of the sun, and a spring came from his grave that was believed to have healing powers. Some of Olav’s blood was placed in a blind man’s eye and the man’s vision was restored. 

    Several months after this death, Olav’s body was exhumed and his hair, beard and nails were seen to have grown. By this point, Olav had a large following – the Cult of Olav – and this following not only unified the country, but it also Christianised it. While Olav wasn’t around to see it, he had succeeded in Christianising Norway. His casket was placed into Kristkirken (Christ Church) in 1070 and Olav was canonised as the Saint of Norway. 

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    Kristkirken over the layout of the present-day Nidaros Cathedral

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    The evolution of Nidaros Cathedral – Kristkirken is in the red section

     

    The Norwegian Civil War

    Trondheim quickly developed as a major religious centre, furthered by the fact that it became the episcopal seat in 1080, and pilgrims from Europe started coming to visit St. Olav’s Casket at Kristkirken, which later became known as Nidaros Cathedral. The church was continuously extended throughout the 12th century, and officially completed in 1320 (it burned down a few years later, though, kickstarting centuries of rebuilding and burning down). The Archbishops Palace was constructed in 1152 as the religious and political centre of the Kingdom of Norway, which not only included Norway but also the Faroe Islands, Shetland, Isle of Man, Iceland and Greenland.

    Reformation and Danish Union

    While Norway had not been a truly independent country since 1380 due to the Kalmar Union, it was the Reformation in 1536/7 that reconfirmed Norway as a Danish territory under Danish rule. Norway, a catholic country at the time, was forced to convert to the Lutheran (Protestant) religion after the Danish king adopted the doctrine of Lutheran. Many old Catholic churches were torn down to make way for new Lutheran churches, and many historic buildings were left untouched, eventually deteriorating into ruin. As Nidaros Cathedral and the Archbishops were symbols of the Catholic religion, the Danes prevented any repairs done to the cathedral after a major fire, and the Palace was turned into a military base. The last Catholic bishop of Trondheim, Olav Engelbrektsson, fled to the Netherlands. Olav’s casket, as well as most items in the church, were taken by the Danes and melted to be made into coins. 

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    Kristiansten Fort was built to defend Trondheim from the Swedes

    The Many Wars with Sweden

    You’ll notice as you walk around that Trondheim has lots of timber buildings. Due to the proximity of forests, the main building material has always been timber. This, of course, means that Trondheim has also caught fire many times. The first major fire was in 1295 when much of the town and the Episcopal Palace was destroyed. In 1328, just 8 years after the 150-year construction of Nidaros Cathedral ended, the church burned down. It had been richly decorated and was regarded as Norway’s finest and most holy palace. A complete restoration was carried out, but a new fire in 1432 caused considerable damage. The town was destroyed by fire in 1531, but at this time the rebuilding was greatly limited. After the Reformation in 1537, the church now lacked importance. Parts of the church were left without a roof and stood in ruins for almost 400 years. 

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    The town plan after the fire of 1681 by Cicignon

    The most famous fire is the fire of 1681 when the town once again burned down. This caused the citizens to rethink how they built the town, and the town planner General John Caspar de Cicignon (1625-1696) from Luxembourg was called to Trondheim to redesign the city with fire prevention in mind. He adopted a grid system with wide, open streets and a quadratic layout. It is regarded as the finest example of a Baroque town plan in Norway and is the layout you’ll see today.

    Still, it wasn’t fireproof. In 1708, the town was ravaged by fire. Nidaros Cathedral was destroyed – only the stone walls remained. Restoration of the church was only just completed when it was again struck by lightning in 1719. The church was rebuilt once again, but this time in a very simple design; for example, a simple pyramid-shaped roof was constructed over the old tower and the octagonal chancel was crowned by a dome in the Baroque style. 

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    Trondheim in 1898

    Several more fires occurred between 1788 and 1842. The street plans changed slightly to try and stop fire jumping, and in 1845 a new rule was introduced that said all buildings had to be built in stone. The locals were surprisingly stubborn about this and insisted on building in wood. They wanted Trondheim to always be a ‘timber town’. After a fire in 1899, they decided that maybe Trondheim should be built in stone. A brick law was enforced. 

    The City Fires

    The 16th and 17th century in Scandinavian history is typically characterised by the many battles between Denmark/Norway and Sweden. As Trondheim is close to the Swedish border, the town became involved in some of these battles. In the Seven-Year War, which lasted between 1563 and 1570, the Swedish Army entered Trondheim and laid siege to the town for two months. During a new war in the years 1567/58 that was won by Sweden, the country of Trøndelag was ceded to the Swedes, though it was only Swedish territory for several months. The Norwegians built Kristiansten Fortress to defend themselves against the Swedes. 

    19th Century Industrial Growth

    Trondheim has always been a major industrial centre for timber, mining and brickworks. The first brick factory opened in the 1200s (and yet it took them over 600 years to decide to use it as a building material), and timber factories existed along the river. The modern industry arrived in the 19th century with the construction of a textiles factory near the river in 1843. Between 1842 and 1870 there was considerable economic development in Trondheim; several businesses that used manual labour became industrialised. The towns commercial and industrial enterprises followed the international trends, with considerable development around the time of the First World War and the depression between the wars. 

    World War II

    Like the other major cities in Norway, Trondheim was occupied on the 9th of April 1940 by German forces. The heavy cruiser ‘Admiral Hipper’ and four destroyers were anchored in the harbour, and 1,700 German troops oversaw the occupation. Trondheim was of strategic importance to the Germans; it was considered the ‘gateway’ to Northern Norway and the Trondheimsfjord provided a haven for German ships preparing to attack the Allied convoys heading for Murmansk. The Germans built U-boat pens along the harbour, a major defence fort at Munkholmen, and coastal forts along the fjord.

    Resistance groups and martial law

    A strong resistance group was active in Trondheim, working with the British via secret radio transmission and distributing illegal newspapers. Their acts of resistance eventually angered the German Reichskommissar Josef Terboven, who decided to implement martial law in the city. He arrived in Trondheim on the 5th of October 1942, and by the 6th of October there were signed all over the city notifying citizens of the ‘martial law’. The conditions for martial law included a curfew from 8pm to 5am, a general prohibition against the use of railroads for transport, and a prohibition against gatherings. Violations were to be punished with no less than 10 years’ imprisonment at hard labour camps or with capital punishment. 13,000 police officers were mobilised to enforce the law. 

    Terboven announced to the civilians from the town square that 10 prominent citizens of Trondheim had been executed as ‘atonement sacrifices’. A well-known concentration camp was situated just north of Trondheim, called Falstad, and nearby was the Falstadskogen (Falstad Woods), which were known as a killing ground. When Terboven made the announcement, eight of the citizens hadn’t been executed yet. Rather, they were being held at the Gestapo Headquarters at Misjonhotellet and had heard the announcement of their deaths. They were taken to Falstadskogen, blindfolded, and placed two by two in a mass grave. They were shot at short range by a firing squad of 10.

    In the following two days, an additional 24 residents were arrested and executed. A dozen or so Jewish men were arrested, 1,434 properties were raided, and 93 Norwegian individuals were arrested. Everyone killed or arrested had some connection to the Norwegian resistance or was just a well-liked member of society whose arrest was to ‘send a message’. Martial law was lifted on the 12th of October once Terboven was confident he had stopped the resistance. However, these measures did little to stop the Norwegians. Rather, they only grew stronger, more organised and coordinated. 

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    A memorial at Falstadskogen

    The Jewish population of Trondheim

    There was intense persecution of the Trondheim Jewish population that began at the local synagogue before spreading throughout the rest of the country. The Trondheim Synagogue was confiscated in April 1942, and in autumn that year Ernst Flesch, a ruthless anti-Semite, had become the commander of the Security Service for Trondheim. By summer 1942, he had taken over almost all business owned by Jews and had arrested the owners. The arrested and executed another four Jews for listening and spreading Norwegian news from London. In October 1942, the remaining Jews were arrested – this was the first city in the country to carry out the mass arrests. By November 1942, all Jews in Trondheim had been arrested and deported, where they would all be killed at a concentration camp, or they were imprisoned in a Norwegian concentration camp. Only a few managed to escape to Sweden. 

    Falstadskogen

    You can read my article about the Falstad Centre & Forest via the link below. 

    The Falstad Centre

    Trondheim Today

    Today, Trondheim is Norway’s third-largest city and is often referred to as the ‘technology capital’ of the country. This can be attributed to the large number of start-up companies that can be found in the city, but also because of the university the Norwegian University of Science and Technology (NTNU). Universities came to Norway late due to the Danish union (if you wanted an education back then, you had to go to Copenhagen). The first college in Trondheim was founded in 1760 as the ‘Det. Kgl. Norske Videnskabers Selskab’, or the Royal Scientific Society. The Norwegian Technical College opened in 1910. Throughout the 20th century, colleges for Arts and Sciences and Medicine opened.

    NTNU University

    In 1996, all of these colleges were brought together and became NTNU. NTNU has a professional basis in education and research, social sciences, humanistic sciences, scientific objects, medicine, architecture and art. 

    There are approximately 36,000 university or college students in Trondheim. The students are particularly known for their volunteer work, and the student society is run by more than 1,200 volunteers. NTNU is also known for closely collaborating with industries and has some of the closest industrial links in the world. NTNU is famous for its research, and there are 4,500 scientific staff and at any time the university is running more than 2000 research projects. In 2017, NTNU was ranked first in the world for universities with corporate links. Many of its Master and PhD programmes are in English, and NTNU offers a free Norwegian language course online if you are interested in learning. 

    In 2014, Professors May-Britt Moser and Edvard Moser at NTNU were awarded the Nobel Prize in Physiology or Medicine for their discoveries of how the brain creates a map of space around us to navigate complex medical surroundings. They share the award with John O’Keefe of the University College London.

    Scientific Institutions & Sport

    St. Olav’s Hospital is one of the major university hospitals in the country. The hospital has 8,69 employees and treats 725,000 patients every year. It specialises in back injuries and neuroscience.

    There are several scientific organisations in Trondheim. One of them is SINTEF, the largest independent research organisation in Scandinavia. Of their 1,800 employees, 1,300 of them are located in Trondheim. The Geological Survey of Norway is also located in Trondheim and is a major geoscientific institution with 220 employees of which 70% are scientists. 

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    Trondheim is regarded as the cross-country ski capital of Norway due to the fact its produced so many Olympians. The Granåsen Ski Centre is a major Nordic skiing venue that regularly hosts competitions. Trondheim is also known for its football club Rosenborg, which has won the Norwegian Premier League 26 times between 1967 and 2018 and has reached the UEFA Champions League group stage 12 times.

    The E6 Highway

    Trondheim is located on the E6, Norway’s main highway. You can find my guide to the E6 by clicking the link below. 

    The E6 Highway
    Trondheim Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Norway's Coastal Ferry

    Tromsø is a port of call of Norway’s coastal ferry. Find my guide for the coastal ferry by clicking the link below. 

    Norway's Coastal Ferry