Emma

Hey! My name is Emma. I'm from Australia but have lived in Bergen, Norway, for the last eight years. I work as a local guide and tour leader for all over Northern Europe. The Hidden North is an online travel guide I have made to help you plan your own visit here.

  • Trondheim, World War II

    Visiting the Falstad Centre, one of the Most Important WWII Centres in Norway

    Visiting the Falstad Centre, one of the Most Important WWII Centres in Norway

    I am always interested in visiting World War II sites, and when roadtripping around Norway I try to visit some of them. The Falstad Centre has been on my list of a while, mostly because it is one of the only prison camps that is still somewhat standing. Norway did have a number of prison camps across the country, but efforts were made to tear them down after the war. At Falstad, you can see the main building still. So, when Sean and I did our Coastal Roadtrip from Trondheim to Senja, we included a stop here.

    The Falstad Centre today is a national memorial site. There are two sites to visit: the Falstad prison camp and the Falstad woods. Additionally, the Falstad Centre has some indoor exhibitions chronicling the use of the camp and occupation of Norway. When we did our Coastal Roadtrip, we only visited the outside (closed due to COVID). Still, they have put up some information boards outside so it is definitely worth visiting. Here’s what we saw when we visited Falstad, plus some information about the history of the camp.

    In this article...

    The E6 Highway

    The Falstad Centre is located on the E6, Norway’s main highway. You can find my guide to the E6 by clicking the link below. 

    The E6 Highway
    Trondheim Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    History of Falstad Centre

    The Camp's Early Use

    If driving from the E6 (European Highway 6), the first stop will the prison camp. Today all that remains is the yellow administration building; most of the wooden barracks were torn down at the end of the war. The commandants house is still visible, too. Parking is free outside, and you will find some information boards outside with images of what the camp used to look like.

    Originally, Falstad was a boarding school for ‘troubled’ boys. The site was originally a farm called Nordre Falstad (Falstad was the farmers name), but the boarding school bought the property in 1895. The school’s purpose was to serve the needs of the ‘misguided’ rather than criminal boys. While at school, they were not only educated but made to do manual labour jobs. Around fifty boys lived here ranging in age from 10 to 18 years old.

    Nazi Germany invaded Norway on the 9th of April 1940. The Nazi German authorities first came to Falstad in August 1941 with plans to make it a centre for the ‘Lebensborn’ program in Norway. The Lebensborn program was an initiative to raise the birth rate of Aryan children amongst ‘racially pure’ parents. In total, Norway had 9 Lebensborn centres – the highest number outside of Germany.
    The site was not used for the Lebensborn program. Instead, they saw its use as a concentration camp. Just a month after their visit, Falstad accepted its first prisoners.

    Prisoners & Life at Falstad

    It is not known how many prisoners passed through here; the camp authorities burned what documents they could before the liberation in 1945. However, estimates are that at least 4,500 prisoners passed through Falstad. Many of them were prisoners of war, and in total at least 13 countries passed through here. The largest group were Yugoslav prisoners. The main characteristic of the camp was forced, hard, and largely meaningless labour. The period between spring 1942 and the autumn of 1943 is the most brutal time in the history of the camp. The prisoners had to work at high speed as slave labourers on pointless projects.

    Jewish Deportation

    Falstad was also used as a transit camp for the Jewish population facing deportation. Trondheim had a sizeable Jewish population that were rounded up and eventually deported to Auschwitz. Falstad was the place they would come to before being sent to Oslo, where the ship was waiting. At least eight Jews were murdered during detention at Falstad.

    Post-war Use

    When the war ended, Falstad was used as a prison for former members of the Norwegian Nazi party as well as prisoners suspected of having supported the Nazis. Then, until the 1990s, it was used as a school once again.

    Use of the Building Today

    After the school closed in the late 1990s, the building became a memorial site and centre for human rights. The Falstad Centre is now used for education and documenting the wartime history of prisoners of war and human rights.

    If you want to learn more about the use of Falstad as a prison camp, I recommend visiting the indoor exhibitions. The Falstad Centre exhibitions focus on the history of the Falstad prison camp and particularly the story and fate of the prisoners. The exhibition also shows the rise of Nazism, the Holocaust, and how the Nazi camp system operated. The Falstad Centre has also made a digital reconstruction of the camp so you can see how it looked during the war.

    Visiting the Falstad Woods (Falstadskogen)

    After visiting the yellow building, get in your car and drive a few minutes to the next stop: the Falstad Woods. Park your car across the street and then head over to the large memorial statue. The memorial depicts prisoners about to be executed by German authorities. It is by the sculptor Odd Hilt, who was a prisoner at Falstad and managed to escape to Sweden. The prisoners have clear facial features, while the soldiers have faceless, anonymous features.

    The Falstad Woods is one of the most sombre World War II sites in Norway. The woods were an execution site by the German occupation authorities, particularly for prisoners of war. The first executions took place on the 7th of March 1942. When the war was coming to an end, the Germans took some of the bodies and sunk them in the Trondheimsfjord. Additionally, some prisoners were executed at nearby fortresses. It’s not known exactly how many people were executed here. On top of that, it’s believed that not all the bodies have been found in the woods yet.

    The victims were at least 43 Norwegians, 74 Yugoslavs, and more than 100 Soviet citizens. The prison camp was hardest on the Yugoslavs, who were often executed soon after arriving at the camp. Many of the Norwegian victims were members of the resistance movement. At least 200 people were executed here, but those at the centre now believe that number to be low. They are still making efforts to find, exhume, and properly bury the victims. A list of some of the known victims are on Lokalhistoriewiki.no (in Norwegian).
    https://lokalhistoriewiki.no/wiki/Falstad_fangeleir

    Information about the victims can also be found in the Falstad Centre.

    You can walk through the woods today. On the ground you will find markers; these state that someone is buried there. Please take extra care in staying on the path; the markers are not always so obvious.

    It is possible to walk between the Falstad Centre and the Falstad Woods; a marked path will take you past the graves and memorial. The trail is about 2km long one way. There are 22 bridges that you’ll pass along the way. Maps can be collected from the Falstad Centre.

    Practical Information

    Everything you need to know about visiting the Falstad Centre can be found on their excellent website, https://falstadsenteret.no/en/frontpage. I would recommend booking a guided tour to truly understand how this area was used as a prison camp. The Falstad Centre offers guided tours in English and Norwegian.

    The museum has information in multiple languages, including English and Norwegian. The Falstad Centre has also digitally recreated the layout of the camp, and you can pick up a tablet from reception with the digital reconstruction on it.

    The E6 Highway

    The Falstad Centre is located on the E6, Norway’s main highway. You can find my guide to the E6 by clicking the link below. 

    The E6 Highway
    Trondheim Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide
  • Norway

    Which Month is Best for Visiting Norway?

    Which Month is Best for Visiting Norway?

    Welcome to my guide that will answer your question: what month is best for visiting Norway?

    In this guide, you’l find a seasonal overview of the weather, what to pack, food, and events. There are also buttons that will lead you to pages dedicated to specific months of the year. 

    If you want to know what month is best for a specific destination, browse my digital travel guide (click here). You’ll find all the places I cover, and when you click on them you’ll find a section for the weather. 

    When should you visit Norway? What month is the best month? When is it warm and sun? When can I see the Northern Lights?

    These are commonly asked questions when travellers are planning to come to Norway. And there are hundreds of articles online giving you various answers, though they all typically say the same thing: July! Warmth! Sun! Pleasant! I read through dozens of these articles and typically read the same advice. However, it doesn’t really coincide with what I’ve experienced actually travelling in Norway.

    I take groups around Norway throughout the year for different purposes, and I’ve found that there is no special month to visit. No month is the ‘best’ month. No season is the ‘best season’. It depends on what you want to experience. Don’t like crowds? July isn’t for you. Don’t like rain? Maybe skip November (but seriously, you have to love the rain if you’re coming to Norway!)

    Choosing which month is best really depends on what you want to get out of Norway. So, in my guide, rather than tell you the ‘best’ month, I’ve put together an overview of what Norway is like each month. That way, you can understand what you can expect and choose your time of year from there.

    I’ve provided a general overview of Norway in each month, but focus also on Bergen. I mean, this blog is called ‘I Love Bergen’ after all! Also I live in Bergen, so I deal with the weather every day. For temperature averages, I focused on the three most commonly visited cities: Oslo, Bergen and Tromsø. But, of course, the weather varies dramatically across the country. If you think I should add a city, let me know.

    You can find weather information for specific cities in my digital travel guide (click here). 

    I’ve also focused on the most recent data for each month. It’s easy to get overall averages, but the weather in Norway is changing: it’s warming up. So I think the recent data is much more realistic than averages built up over time.

    If you think I’ve skipped over anything, or if there’s anything you think I should add, let me know!

    In this article...

    Quick Summary

    • Northern Lights: I’ve had the most success in March and September, though any time between September and March works as long as you put in the effort
    • Winter Activities: Come between December and March, though if you can push it to January do that.
    • Cool Weather: April, May, September, October, November, plus all of winter (of course)
    • Nature Lovers: May or October. Spring or Autumn
    • No Crowds, Open Attractions: May
    • Hot Weather: July. But don’t expect it to be hot like elsewhere in Europe
    • Snow: February/March. March is the month with the deepest snow
    • My recommended month: May

    Winter

    Winter is a lovely time to be in Norway, despite the fact it’s the quietest time of the year. Most of the country turns into a winter wonderland, and the northern lights begin to shine in the skies. While Bergen doesn’t see much snow at this time of year, you just have to travel an hour inland and you are surrounded by some of the most popular ski slopes in the country.

    Skiing has a special place in Norwegian culture and history, and during the winter people of all ages head to ski resorts, forests and mountains to enjoy their national hobby.

    Clothing

    Winter in Norway can, of course, be very cold. Bring layers. Use wool rather than cotton or polyester, and make sure you have waterproof clothing, as well as a coat that is both water and windproof. This is especially important in the coastal areas. If you are visiting a city, you don’t need waterproof pants and a down jacket will work just fine.

    Seasonal Food & Drink

    Winter is the best time of year to eat seafood such as prawns, langoustine, blue mussel, scallop and lobster. Fresh fish is also best in winter, and many restaurants offer cod, halibut, salmon and trout.

    Christmas food will be found on the menus throughout winter. This includes smalahove (sheep’s head), lutefisk (cod soaked in lye), and pinnekjøtt (dried, salted and steamed sheep’s ribs).

    Weather

    In winter, the average temperature for the entire country is -6.8 degrees, but the conditions vary a lot. Around Oslo, snowfall is common, and the average temperature is just below zero. In Bergen, the weather rarely goes into the negatives and we get more rain than snow.

    The lower areas of Northern Norway have very cold winters with lots of snow. The snow, strong winds and severe frost is particularly harsh, and may result in road closures.

    The coastal areas are much milder.

    The sun disappears from Northern Norway by the end of November, and until mid-January the region experiences the polar night. This doesn’t mean it’s completely pitch black throughout winter; Northern Norway gets these lovely polar lights; blue, pink and orange skies during the daytime, and then perfect northern lights darkness during the night. In southern Norway, at its worst, we get around 5.5 hours of sunlight a day.

    December is a very quiet month. It is the darkest month of the year, and many choose to have a quiet month centered around staying home and enjoying Christmas traditions. 

    Activities

    • Visit the Northern Lights Festival in Tromso
    • in Tromso they host the Northern Lights Festival

    Weather

    Typically February is the coldest month of the year.

    Northern Lights

    February is considered to be ideal for viewing the northern lights.

    Activities

    Many winter activities are on offer in February. 

    • The Polar Jazz Festival is held in February. It is the world’s northernmost jazz festival, taking place in Svalbard. 
    • Rørosmartnan is Norway’s largest winter festival. It’s held in Røros, one of my favourite places in Norway. 
    • Sami Week is a must if you are coming in February. During the first week of February, Sami culture is celebrated around the country. In Tromsø, they host the national reindeer sledge championship on the main street. 

    Spring

    Hardanger in May

    While Spring technically starts in March, it is still cold and snowy. March, after all, is still a popular month for seeing snow, the northern lights, and taking part in winter activities.

    During April and May, the days are getting longer and the snow is beginning to melt. During May, the plants all turn green and the flowers boom. Birds are starting to build their nests and farmers are delivering their newborn lambs. It’s a lovely time of year to be in Norway!

    Spring is the best time of year to see waterfalls. As the snow is melting, it creates giant waterfalls. By July, their flow has weakened considerably, and in winter they are frozen.

    Spring is also when the birds are at their liveliest. The migratory birds return home in April to enjoy the warmer seasons. The Varanger Peninsula is one of the best places to see birds like white-tailed eagles, gyrfalcons, steller’s eider and Arctic Sea Ducks. If you visit Røst in Lofoten in mid-April, you’ll see thousands of Arctic puffins return to their breeding grouns.

    On the West Coast of Norway, you typically get spring in late April/early May. They have to be a little more patient in Northern Norway, with spring coming in late May or early June, but by then the days are long and bright and the summer days have already started. May is the month when the two-month-long midnight sun begins in the Arctic.

    It’s notoriously hard to predict when spring arrives; technically the spring equinox is around 20 March. Personally, I don’t start feeling the spring weather until May. But even then, May can be a snowy month.

    Winter is a lovely time to be in Norway, despite the fact it’s the quietest time of the year. Most of the country turns into a winter wonderland, and the northern lights begin to shine in the skies. While Bergen doesn’t see much snow at this time of year, you just have to travel an hour inland and you are surrounded by some of the most popular ski slopes in the country.

    Skiing has a special place in Norwegian culture and history, and during the winter people of all ages head to ski resorts, forests and mountains to enjoy their national hobby.

    Clothing

    Dressing in April and May is difficult because the weather is so hard to predict; by the time you’ve put on your jacket, the weather has changed for either the worse or the better.

    It’s good to pack warm clothes no matter what, and a waterproof and windproof jacket is always needed. Make sure you dress in layers so you can adjust according to the weather.

    You typically won’t need snow boots in April, and you definitely won’t need them in May. While we still may get snow, it does melt very quickly and doesn’t affect walking around. In Northern Norway, the snow may sit for a little longer, but it’s not often slippery.

    Seasonal food & drink

    Spring is the time for lamb dishes, usually around Easter, and it’s also when we have the first potatoes, asparagus and wild garlic for the year.

    Fresh fish is always good, and in spring we typically have herring and cod from the Lofoten area.

    Closer to summer, rhubarb begins to appear.

    May is a month of public holidays included the much loved 17 May (Constitution Day), and for that day many Norwegians bake incredible cakes, pastries and breads. The best cakes have lots of fresh berries on them, whereas the popular and much loved kransekake is available for purchase in stores.

    During spring you finish your winter food, and you may come across salted meat and raspeball on the menus. Raspeball is a traditional potato dumlping, though it goes by many dufferent names!

    Weather

    Spring arrives early in Southern Norway compared to the rest of the country, usually some time in April. The days are getting warmer and lighter every day. Spring flowers appear, the trees are budding, birds build their nests and farmers deliver newborn lambs. In early spring the coastal areas of Western Norway have the highest temperatures. In May, it’s normally southern Norway that has the warmest weather.

    Above the Arctic Circle, Spring may not come until late May or early June.

    I’ve always found spring hard to predict. Last year, in May, it was hot and sunny, but this year it’s been cold, rainy and snowy for pretty much all the month.

    In March the days begin to feel much longer. March is also considered one of the best months for visiting Svalbard.

    Activities

    • The Finnmarksløpet is held in March. It is Europe’s longest dog sled endurance race and takes place up in Finnmark
    • The Sami Grand Prix (their version of Eurovision) is held in March
    • Sunfest in Longyearbyen is a celebration of the sun returning to the island

    April is a quiet month in Norway. The weather can be unpredictable and Norwegians are eagerly awaiting May and the good weather that will come. 

    Activities

    • Stavanger Vinfest. In mid-April a large celebration of food and wine is held in Stavanger
    • Trondheim Blues is one of northern Europe’s premier blues events. It takes place in Trondheim. 

    Spring arrives properly in May. All of the flowers begin to bloom, the snow melts, and it is typically one of the sunniest months in the country. 

    Activities

    Many festivals take place in May:

    • Constitution Day. If you are planning a trip to Norway in May, try to come on Constitution Day. The 17th of May is a huge celebration in the city and you’ll get to watch the parade, see people in their bunads, and enjoy true Norwegian patriotism. 
    • The Alta Blues and Soul Festival takes place in late May and has a month-long program of music performances
    • Bergen’s International Festival is one of Norway’s largest cultural events and has a two week line-up of cultural events, including dance, music, and presentations
    • Codstock in Lofoten in May is perhaps the best festival title in Norway. It is the celebration of cod and local music

    Summer

    Summer! Summer is (of course) the most popular time to visit Norway, and why not. The days are long, the sun is shining, and everything is open. The Norwegian summer weather is (for the most part) quite stable, and the temperatures are lovely all over the country. In July, during the summer holidays, you’ll see the locals out enjoying the sun after a long and cold winter. It’s also common for people to go out on their boats. Some have their sailing boats, while most just use their small traditional boats to cruise on the fjords and through the archipelagos.

    Summer is a popular month to go hiking, and all trails typically are open by July. Lots of people also spend nights out in nature camping and take to the ski trails to go cycling. Outdoor recreation is a major part of the Norwegian identity.

    At the same time, summer is the high season. Expect cruise ships, endless bus tours, crowds, lines, and higher prices. Hotels may sell out months in advance, while museums may be overcrowded to the point it’s unpleasant. Everyone comes in summer. The July holidays for Europe sees numerous caravanning Germans or Dutch on the roads, which is a thrill on the narrow fjord roads.

    Clothing

    Norwegian weather is always unpredictable. It may be hot and sunny one day, and then the next day it’s cold and rainy. Always pack windproof and waterproof clothing, but don’t hesitant to pack shorts and a t-shirt!

    Seasonal food & drink

    Summer is a lovely time for fresh berries, and blueberries are commonly found in the Norwegian forests and mountains. In Southern Norway, they tend to ripen in the middle of Summer. In July and August, you’ll see roadside booths offering locally grown strawberries and cherries for sale.

    Norwegians love grilling. Whole sections of the supermarket are dedicated to it. Almost no matter the weather Norwegians will be outside grilling whatever they come across. Vegetables, fish, meat, and poultry on the barbeque is a summer tradition for the Norwegians.

    The first sign of summer is when you see Norwegians outside drinking beer. There is even a Norwegian word for this: utepils. It’s so ingrained in summer that the first opportunity for it will often be mentioned in the press.

    Pick up a lovely plate of freshly caught fish served with sour cream, potatoes and cucumber salad. Or maybe have shrimp straight from the boat, enjoyed right at the dock?

    Weather

    Typically, summer temperatures reach 25 to 30 degrees, and there is hardly any humidity in the area. Even the nights are warm.

    In the last two years, we have had sweltering heatwaves where temperatures have gone over 33 degrees.

    The warm months sound great at first, but Norway is not built for hot weather. Hotels are typically not air conditioned, as are museums and supermarkets. It gets uncomfortably hot during summer, and this can be pleasant, especially if you aren’t used to that kind of heat. I mean, I’m from Australia and I find it unpleasant! So don’t think you have to travel in July because it’s hot and sunny; most of my groups love the colder weather. It’s more Norwegian, right?

    From late June to early August it never really gets dark anywhere in the country. The midnight sun occurs only above the Arctic Circle, and lasts typically from mid-May to the end of July. Below the Arctic Circle the sun does set, but we never really get a true darkness. The sky is more like dusk throughout the night.

    The warmest and most stable weather usually occurs in Eastern Norway, where it’s often very sunny and temperatures are over 25 degrees Celsius.

    The highest temperatures are inland.

    Along the Western Coast, the cool sea breezes keep most heat waves at bay, but keep in mind Bergen can be very rainy, even in summer. A lovely sunny day can be followed by three miserable rainy ones.

    June is when tourism really returned to Norway and it gets crowded very fast.

    It is a good time to go whale watching up in Northern Norway around Andenes. 

    Activities:

    • Voss Extreme Sports Week: Head to Voss in Western Norway for an action packed week of outdoor sports. 
    • Midnight Sun marathon in Tromso: This is the world’s northernmost 42km road race and worth going to watch if you aren’t a marathoner. 

    July is peak tourist season and is very crowded. Still, it is a nice warm month to come and there are some things going on. 

    Activities

    • Moldejazz in Molde is one of Norway’s most famous jazz festivals

    August is when most of the music festivals take place. The weather is still nice and warm, but the midnight sun has ended and the days are getting shorter.

    • International Chamber Music Festival takes place n Stavanger and has some nice concerts
    • Rauma Rock is Norway’s regular mix of jazz and blues
    • Øya Festival in Oslo is Norway’s largest rock festival

    Autumn (Fall)

    The Norwegian autumn comes with a variety of weather. In some parts of the country, summer may last until well into October, while rain and snow can arrive as early as September.

    The best part of autumn is the changing of the colours. The trees and heath turn yellow and red and leaves start to fall off the trees. The colours are at their most dazzling in autumn. The mountains are especially beautiful at this time of the year, and it’s a popular season to go hiking.

    Summer! Summer is (of course) the most popular time to visit Norway, and why not. The days are long, the sun is shining, and everything is open. The Norwegian summer weather is (for the most part) quite stable, and the temperatures are lovely all over the country. In July, during the summer holidays, you’ll see the locals out enjoying the sun after a long and cold winter. It’s also common for people to go out on their boats. Some have their sailing boats, while most just use their small traditional boats to cruise on the fjords and through the archipelagos.

    Summer is a popular month to go hiking, and all trails typically are open by July. Lots of people also spend nights out in nature camping and take to the ski trails to go cycling. Outdoor recreation is a major part of the Norwegian identity.

    At the same time, summer is the high season. Expect cruise ships, endless bus tours, crowds, lines, and higher prices. Hotels may sell out months in advance, while museums may be overcrowded to the point it’s unpleasant. Everyone comes in summer. The July holidays for Europe sees numerous caravanning Germans or Dutch on the roads, which is a thrill on the narrow fjord roads.

    Clothing

    Wind and rain make the outdoors a typically wet experience in autumn, but you may get lucky and see a last glimpse of summer weather. It is difficult to predict the weather in autumn, but you should pack wind and rainproof outer clothing. Underneath wear a couple layers that you can adjust according to the temperatures.

    Seasonal food & drink

    Autumn is harvesting time. This is when the menus change once again, and Norwegians favour local ingredients and slow-booked and rich dishes suited for a chillier climate.

    Fårikål, Norway’s national dish, is popular in autumn; there’s even the Fårikål Feast Day in September.

    The Norwegian word for autumn is høst, which literally translates to harvest. Gathering fruits, berries and mushrooms is a popular hobby. Lots of Christmas treats are prepared in autumn.

    Apple Day is also celebrated in September. The season’s apples are perfect as jams and pies.

    Other popular foods are lamb, moose and other wild beasts, which go well with lingonberries and cream sauce. Potatoes, sweet carrots and crispy chanterelles also are found on menus.

    The crowds and cruise ships begin to disappear in September, so it can be a nice time to visit. However, the weather can be a little unpredictable. 

    In October the temperatures are dropping. You get the nice fall colours in October. 

    Activities

    • Bergen International Film Festival is one of Norway’s largest festivals. It is largely a documentary festival

    November is a quiet month for tourism and the winter can start to come. Winter activities don’t typically begin now because there isn’t stable snow on the ground yet. 

  • Fagernes, Foodies Guide, Voss

    20 of the Best Traditional Norwegian Foods to Try

    20 of the Best Traditional Norwegian Foods to Try

    When you come to Norway, you have to try the local cuisine. Whenever someone asks me “What is a traditional Norwegian food?” I have to explain that here food varies dramatically according to region and time of year.

    The most traditional Norwegian foods are, understandably, found in Norwegian restaurants. They tend to be the most expensive options, but if you do your research you can find the same quality food in the fish market restaurants or the Norwegian cafes.

    When we think traditional Norwegian food, our brain tends to go straight to seafood. It is true – Norway has a long history of fishing, and many farmers had to survive on fishing. Seafood remains an important part of Norwegian cuisine today, but due to its historical association of being a food for the poor, meat is seen as more of a luxury dish.

    Sheep, lamb and pork are popular meats found in Norway. If you go north, you’ll find reindeer on the menu. In the rural parts of the country, you’ll find game meats. Meats were typically seen as high-end food and what you would more likely be served when visiting a Norwegian home. Still, Norwegians had to be thrifty and all of the animal was used. That’s why you’ll find questionable dishes below, but remember this is how people had to survive for a long period of time.

    Most meat and fish dishes are accompanied with potatoes, carrots and other vegetables (according to season). Sauce is also an important ingredient, and there are a wide variety of Norwegian sauces that fit perfectly with different kinds of meat and seafood.

    Norwegians didn’t get fridges in their households until the 1950s, and before then methods of preservation were crucial. Families salted and dried their own fish and meat, pickled their own fruit and vegetables, and did everything possible to make food survive through the winter. You’ll see examples of this below.

    I’ve compiled a list of what I consider the most traditional Norwegian foods to try. When you come to Norway, be sure to try some of these. Pay attention to where in Norway you are and what season it is – if you check restaurants online keep in mind their menus are always seasonal.

    In this article...

    Found in Restaurants

    Salmon



    Recipe / Image Source
    Homemade Gravlaks
    Supermarket

    • Smoked salmon can be found in restaurants or supermarkets
    • Cooked salmon is found all over the country

    Salmon is a staple of the Norwegian diet, and you can find it on menus practically all over the country.
    Possibly the most Norwegian form of salmon is gravlaks. Gravlaks is salmon that has been cured in salt, sugar, and dill. You will find it on some breakfast buffets or as an appetiser on menus.

    Smoked salmon can be bought in supermarkets, though I do see it on menus as an appetiser too.

    If you order a salmon fillet from a restaurant, it will come with potatoes, seasonal vegetables, and a white sauce.
    It’s worth nothing that most, if not all, Norwegian salmon is farmed.

    Try it on Sushi!

    I know, sushi is not a traditional Norwegian dish.

    However.

    The Norwegians claim to have invented salmon sushi. Fresh fish sushi is amazing in Norway and it’s very popular for people here to have for lunch or dinner. Norway is actually credited for popularising salmon sushi in Japan in the 1980s. At the time, the Asian country was resistant to raw salmon due to parasites associated with pacific salmon. After Norway’s Project Japan successfully introduced and promoted Atlantic salmon to Japan, and it has been a staple ever since.

    Fårikål



    Recipe / Image Source

    • Norway’s national dish
    • Stew with meat and potato

    Fårikål is a stew that has been voted Norway’s national dish. It’s made from lamb meat and most of the animal is used – the shoulder, neck, ribs, and chops. The meat is cooked over a long time, and this makes the meat really tender. Cabbage is also put into the stew. After hours in the pot, it’s ready to eat.

    The last Thursday of September is Norway’s national fårikål day. You’ll find it on Norwegian restaurant menus throughout autumn.

    Stockfish




    Buy on Amazon/Image Source

    Stockfish is the staple of North Norwegian cuisine. It’s cod that has been dried outdoors for several months. The tradition dates back to the 12th century, and for hundreds of years it was the main Norwegian export.

    In restaurants you’ll find stockfish on the menu, especially in Northern Norway. The stockfish is rehydrated before cooking.

    If you go into a supermarket in Northern Norway or the fish markets in Southern Norway, you’ll be able to find the stockfish still dry. But it whole or as a bag of chips!

    You will also find cod (not dried – just fresh cod fillets) on many restaurant menus. The best I’ve ever had was at Enhjorningen in Bryggen. It’s pictured on the left.

    Lutefisk



    Recipe / Image Source
    “Why We Keep Eating Lutefisk in Minnesota”
    Buy Lutefisk (USA)

    • Stockfish soaked in lye
    • Traditional Christmas dish

    Lutefisk is another traditional food from Norway, which is typically eaten at Christmas. It is also common to eat on Christmas in Sweden and some parts of Finland.

    Lutefisk is made from aged stockfish and pickled in lye. First, the stockfish is soaked for five to six days in water, which is changed daily. Then it is soaked in a solution of cold water and lye for an additional two days. During this process, the dried fish swells and its protein content decreases by more than 50 percent. It creates a jelly-like texture. This process actually makes the fish inedible. To make it possible to eat, it needs an additional five to six days of soaking in cold water to remove the very high pH levels the lye added. Then it is cooked.

    Lutefisk is cooked by spreading a layer of salt over the fish to release some of the water. Remove the salt before cooking. Place it in a pan and steam cook it on a low heat for up to 25 minutes. It can also be baked in the oven. Lutefisk is served with potatoes, green peas, melted butter, and small pieces of fried bacon. Side dishes vary greatly from region to region, and family to family.

    Lutefisk Around the World

    Lutefisk has become popular in the United States as a heritage fish. Madison in Minnesota was named the ‘lutefisk capital of the world’ as it has the largest per capita consumption of lutefisk in Minnesota. Lutefisk is also served in Lutheran churches across Wisconsin, and it can be found in Canada. In Norway, around 20% of Norwegians eat it as a Christmas dinner.

    In Norway, you will find it for sale in supermarkets or on the menu over Christmas time. If you visit in July, you will not find lutefisk anywhere.

    We had lutefisk at Bryggeloftet in Bergen, and it was incredible.

    Meatballs

    • Meatballs
    • Find them in cheaper restaurants. The best ones are always found in our roadside diner – the ‘kro’

    Kjøttkaker is Norway’s answer to Sweden’s meatballs. Are ours better? Absolutely! 😉 Norwegian meatballs tend to be bigger and more influenced by family traditional recipes, whereas Swedish meatballs are more bite-sized.
    Meatballs are eaten with boiled potatoes, carrots (or other vegetables), and a brown sauce. They are best eaten homemade, but I find the most authentic ones in our version of a diner – the ‘kro’. You will find upmarket versions in restaurants, but this is a hearty dish that needs to be the real deal!

    Whale Meat

    Whale is a controversial food item, but I do recommend trying it when in Norway. Whaling isn’t banned: it’s heavily regulated and the whale used is minke whale, which is sustainable to hunt. You will see whale meat in fish markets and some supermarkets, but try it in a restaurant. More casual restaurants serve it as a burger, while the more upmarket ones serve it as a steak.
    It’s not as widely available as the anti-whaling groups make it out to be, and there aren’t many who prepare it at home.
    Whale was commonly used as a cheap substitute for beef in the early 20th century, and was vital to remote communities in Northern Norway.

    Consumption in whale meat is declining in Norway.

    You’ll find it in the fish market in Bergen.

    Raspeballer



    Recipe

    The Different Names

    Raspeballer

    • Dense potato balls
    • Called something different all over the country

    Raspeballer are a traditional Norwegian dish commonly prepared and served during the summer. You’ll find it on the menu at traditional, not necessarily high-end, Norwegian restaurants.
    This dense ball of mashed potato and flour is simmered in stock with fatty cuts of sheep or pork. It’s served with thick cubes of pan-fried bacon and lots of brown butter.
    Many restaurants serve it as a special every Thursday afternoon.
    They aren’t the most beautiful to look at, but they are very tasty!

    Smalahove



    Recipe

    This dish is the ultimate West Norwegian Christmas dish. You will only find it on menus over the Christmas period, and it’s not cheap. Still, if you want to try it – go ahead!
    The sheeps head is either boiled or steamed for three hours and is usually served with rutabaga and potatoes. Historically, it was food for the lower class. Today it is a delicacy that has to be preordered months in advance.

    Pinnekjøtt



    Recipe

    Pinnekjøtt

    • Dried, salted, smoked and cured lamb ribs
    • Very common Christmas dish. Found in restaurants and supermarkets

    The dish is made from lamb ribs. The meat is dried, salted and smoked. Once the meat is cured, the racks are hung in a cool, dark, and well-ventilated place to dry. Before cooking, the racks are separated into individual ribs and then soaked in water to rinse out the salt. After soaking the ribs, the ribs are steamed.
    This is a very popular Christmas/New Years dish in Western Norway, and you’ll find it in most Norwegian restaurants.

    Fiskesuppe



    Recipe

    Fiskesuppe

    • Fish soup
    • The best one is in Bergen!

    Fish soup is found all over the country, but it’s famous in Bergen. It is a white, milk-based soup with vegetables and various kinds of fish. The most incredible fish soup I’ve ever had is at Bryggeloftet in Bergen.

    Klippfisk



    Bacalao Recipe
    Klippfisk in supermarkets

    • Salted stockfish
    • Used commonly in bacalao

    The Dutch introduced salt to the fishermen of Kristiansund in the 1600s, and this is how cliff fish, or klippfisk, was born!  Salted, dried and pressed cod is known as the star of the Iberian dish bacalao. It became very popular in Kristiansund, where the klippfisk was produced.
    The difference between klippfisk and stockfish is that klippfisk is salted before drying, while stockfish isn’t.
    Today klippfisk is primarily exported to Spain and Portugal and used in bacalao.

    Rakfisk

    • Fermented trout/char
    • Try some at the Norwegian rakfisk festival in Fagernes

    Rakfisk is Norwegian fish made from trout or char, salted, and fermented for two or three months or even up to a year. It’s eaten without further cooking. It must be prepared and stored hygienically due to the risk of causing bacteria.
    Every year the Norwegian Rakfisk Festival takes place in Fagernes. Local rakfisk producers as well as producers of other local products and handicrafts turn the streets into a marketplace.
    Click here for more info. 

    Game & Hunting Meat

    High cuisine is reliant on game meats. Hunting is heavily regulated in Norway, and it is typically for personal consumption or given to friends and family. They are also served in restaurants.
    Here are the more traditional meats to try in restaurants:
    Moose. Moose is hunted and prepared in restaurants. You’ll very rarely find it in supermarkets. The taste can be compared to venison or elk. It’s prepared in many different forms, from steaks to burgers to hot dogs and stews. Click here for some different moose menus.
    Reindeer. If you’re in Northern Norway, you have to have reindeer. Extra points if you eat reindeer prepared by the Sami. I don’t eat reindeer often, but when I do I make sure it’s from a Sami family. My favourite ever reindeer eaten was a reindeer potato bake I had at a Sami camping ground. You’ll find it in supermarkets and on menus – it’s typically served as a steak.
    Deer. Deer is very common on menus, and it’s also often served as a steak.
    Grouse. This is one of the most sought-after birds in Norway. The breast has a tender, mild gamey taste.

    Supermarket Buys

    Brown Cheese

    • Brown Cheese / Gudbrandalsost
    • Find the cheese in the supermarket or on the buffet at your hotel breakfast

    Brown cheese is a very Norwegian food item. It is regarded as one of Norway’s most iconic foodstuffs, and it is considered an important part of Norwegian gastronomical and cultural identity and heritage.
    Brown cheese is produced by boiling milk, cream, and whey for several hours until the water evaporates. The heat turns the milk sugars into caramel – this is what gives the cheese its brown colour and sweetness. It is either made from cows’ milk or goat’s milk.
    The most popular type is ‘Gudbrandsdalsost’, which is produced in the Gudbrandsdalen Valley and contains a mixture of goat and cow milk.
    If you are trying brown cheese for the first time, put it on a lightly buttered slice of bread. It is a little sticky and full of flavour, so you don’t want to overwhelm it. Brown cheese is not technically cheese, so don’t go in expecting a cheese flavour! I love having brown cheese on waffles, too.
    Brown cheese is used in sweet and savoury dishes such as pasta & muffins. I like to make ‘brown cheese burgers’ 
    Fun fact: Brown cheese has become very popular in South Korea. In South Korea, they put it on croissants, though brown cheese pizza is very popular too.

    Kaviar

    Caviar… in a tube

    • Try Norwegian caviar straight from a tube
    • You’ll find it in the cold spreads section of the supermarket

    Pickled herring is something we like to snack on. Buy a jar in the supermarket with some rye bread, put the two together, and enjoy! If you’re hosting a party, serve pickled herring as a hors-d’oeuvre. It’s popularly eaten over Christmas.

    Leverpostei

    • Liver paste
    • You’ll find it in the tinned goods section of the supermarket

    Leverpostei is a common filling for sandwiches. This is a paste made of liver – normally pork. You can buy it in tins in the supermarket. It tastes best on a slice of bread. The tins characteristically have a childs face on the front.

    Sur-Sild

    • Pickled Herring
    • You can buy it in a large jar in the supermarket fridge section

    Pickled herring is something we like to snack on. Buy a jar in the supermarket with some rye bread, put the two together, and enjoy! If you’re hosting a party, serve pickled herring as a hors-d’oeuvre. It’s popularly eaten over Christmas.

    Snacks, Desserts, Takeaway

    Pølse med Lompe

    • Hot dog in pancakes
    • You’ll find them at kiosks (7/11 and Narvesen) as well as hotdog stands

    This is the traditional Norwegian foods of hot dogs. You can buy regular hotdogs in Norway, but if you want to do as the Norwegians do, try the Norwegian version with a sausage in a potato pancake.

    Waffles

    • Norwegian waffles
    • You’ll find them in cafes

    The Norwegian waffles are, in my opinion, the best in the world. They are thin, fluffy, and shaped like love hearts. The heart shape comes from the tradition that waffles are sold at charity drives.
    You can put many different things on top – jam, sour cream, cream, sugar, brown cheese. My husband puts ketchup on, which is so wrong!
    You can buy pre-made packets in supermarkets. Just add butter and water. The waffle irons are available everywhere, and prices range from 600 – 1000 NOK.

    Lefse

    • A kind of Norwegian flatbread

    Lefse is made with butter, flour, potatoes, and cream. However, the recipes for lefse vary dramatically depending where in Norway you are.
    You can buy packaged lefse in supermarkets or kiosks. Vestlandslefse is the best!

    Rømmegrøt

    • A strange Norwegian dessert

    Rømmegrøt is a sour cream porridge that you’ll find in the more traditional restaurants and diners.
    The recipe consists of sour cream, flour, milk, and salt which are then boiled or several minutes until a thick, creamy consistency is achieved. In Røros it is served with boiled trout, which makes it even more unique.

    Share your thoughts!

    Have you got any suggestions for food items to add? Or maybe some recommendations for restaurants? Add them below!
    I hope you enjoyed this article.

  • Bergen, Geilo, Hønefoss, Oslo, Voss

    Everything You Need to Know About the Bergen Railway

    The Bergen Railway

    The Bergen Railway is undeniably one of the best ways to get between Bergen and Oslo. The entire journey, which takes around 7 hours, crosses valleys and mountains, passes lakes and fjords, and shows you some of the best Norway has to offer.

    Information online can be tricky, so I’ve gathered it all together in one straight-to-the-point article. After the practical information, you’ll find an overview of some of the stations you pass on the trip. 

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    Here’s everything you need to know before taking the Bergen Railway. Enjoy!

    In this article...

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    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Information about facilities along the way

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the region & towns
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Facilities including supermarkets, toilets, petrol, hotels, cafes, restaurants with addresses.

    Brief Historical Overview

    The Bergen Railway was built between 1875 and 1909. The first section of the train to be built was the Voss Line, which runs between Bergen and Voss. It opened in 1883 after over a decade of planning and construction. The plan had always been to extend it to Oslo, but by the time the Voss Line was complete, Norway was in a recession. Parliament was not willing to give more money. In 1894, the matter was brought to parliament, and they voted 60 in favour (53 against) to build the Bergen Line. 12 different routes were surveyed over a period of six years. Construction finally began in 1901.

    The construction process, as you might imagine, was very challenging. The high altitudes in a region without roads and a freezing cold climate made it difficult for the workers. The tunnels were all built manually through solid gneiss. The laying of track started in 1906 and took around one year to be completed.

    The original train was a standard gauge. The first services started on the 1st of July 1907 between Voss and Myrdal. An official opening was attempted on 9 December 1907, but the train got stuck in heavy snow. The first train between Bergen and Oslo ran on the 25th of November 1909, and two days later the railway was officially opened at Voss by King Haakon VII.

    The railway was used a lot during World War II for both civilian and military transportation.

    After the war, plans were made to electrify the train. The line was electrified in four stages between 1961 and 1964.

    Practical Information

    Timings

    • How many trains run a day? Four trains to between Bergen and Oslo a day. 
    • What time should I take it? If you are doing the Bergen to Oslo trip with Norway in a Nutshell all in one day, take the train that leaves Bergen around 8am. It’s also a good time to take the train because it gives you time to explore Oslo. The train gets into Oslo around 2:45pm.
    • What’s the best time of year to go? The train operates all year. It really depends on when you are travelling. It’s crowded in summer. I prefer spring: you get all the flowers and trees blooming closer to sea level, but there’s still snow on the mountains. 

    Tickets & Pricing

    • Buying in advance: Tickets can be bought up to 90 days in advance on our national rail website, vy.no. 
    • Does it sell out? Yes! In summer and over winter holidays, it is very common for the train to sell out. Book as early as possible.
    • Are there any discounts?If you keep an eye out and book as early as possible, you may find the minipris tickets. These are heavily discounted, but they do sell out quickly!
    • Norway in a Nutshell: You can book the trip on the Norway in a Nutshell website, and this is worth doing if you are actually doing the Norway in a Nutshell tour (Bergen – Voss – Gudvangen – Flåm – Myrdal – Oslo). However, they tend to charge more than if you just booked it on your own. It’s a matter of ease and convenience. 
    • How much do tickets cost? Ticket prices change a lot depending on the time of year and how close the train is to selling out

    Komfort Class

    • Komfort Class is the ‘first class’ option on the train
    • Komfort Class comes with complimentary tea and cofee, plus charging ports
    • Is it worth it? Honestly, I think so. While the ‘advantages’ of Komfort class don’t seem worth the extra fare, I think it’s worth it because it’s so much more relaxing. In summer, the train gets overcrowded with noisy travellers and luggage. The Komfort section tends to be where the Norwegians go because it’s quieter. Being silent in this section is a little more enforced too. 

    Services on board

    • Cafe: There is a cafe on the train. They have drinks, sandwiches, chocolates, coffee, hot dogs, pizzas, and some warm food items (like a curry with rice). The café gets incredibly busy around the middle of the trip, and the carriage is tiny. It is very unpleasant if you try to get food then. Some items will sell out, too. If you wait to the end of the trip, you’ll be left with hot dogs as an option. I recommend buying cold food early and saving it until you want it. It’s cheaper to buy food ahead of time and bring it on board with you. 
    • Alcohol? No alcohol is served on board
    • Wifi? Wifi is on the train in theory, but how well it works depends on what part of Norway you’re in. For example, it rarely works in the mountains. 
    • Bringing Children: Close to the café is a playroom for children. It’s called the ‘Family Car’. 
    • Language: signs on board are in Norwegian. Announcements are made in both English and Norwegian. 

    Apps

    • The Vy app allows you to download tickets and show them to the conductor. It’s much better than printing the ticket
    • The BaneNOR app allows you to track trains

    Taking photos

    • Bergen to Voss: Mostly the left side
    • Voss to Myrdal: Mostly the right side
    • Myrdal to Finse: Mostly the right side
    • Finse to Geilo: Mostly the right side
    • Geilo to Oslo: Both sides work well.

    For the photographers, the best places to take photos are in the doorways. At each stop, you can open the doors and take a quick snapshot. Just be wary of how long the train is stopping!

    Buss for tog

    If you see this, it means that part of the train journey has been replaced with a bus. It’s inconvenient but it happens if there’s work needed on the train. The bus doesn’t provide food or stops for toilets, so plan in advance.

    Luggage

    The train has very limited space for luggage. If you are breaking up the trip to do Norway in a Nutshell, I recommend having your luggage delivered to your hotel in Bergen or Oslo, depending on which direction you are going. Then take a small overnight bag on board the train with you. Check out the service ‘Porter Service’ (www.porterservice.no)

    Tunnel Reality

    There are over 180 tunnels on the Bergen Railway, so at times your view will be limited. This is very true in Western Norway; you must be quick with the camera!

    The journey: Bergen to Oslo

    Bergen

    City

    Bergen Station opened in 1913, four years after the Bergen Line was completed. Originally, the station was located further west (near where KODE 2 gallery is today). 

    At the time of construction, it was regarded as one of the grandest stations in Norway. The material used is granite and the style of construction is the National Romantic style. 

    As we leave Bergen, on the right side we’ll be able to see the city centre and the Lungegård Lake. 

    Bergen Travel Guide

    Ulriken Tunnel

    Tunnel

    The Ulriken Tunnel is the first tunnel we go through. The tunnel is relatively new; before then, the first 32km (20 mi) of the journey out of Bergen was very slow because the tracks navigated their way around the suburbs. Three tunnels were constructed to eliminate that part of the trip. The tunnels were completed in 1963, and the first train went through in 1964.

    The track is single track, which does create some traffic. A double track is planned. There is also a rumour that a road tunnel will be put through Mount Ulriken, which will eliminate the drive time from Arna down from 40 minutes to 10 minutes. 

    Tip: When we are in the Ulriken Tunnel, you lose internet signal. 

    Arna

    Borough
    • After the Ulriken Tunnel was completed in 1964, Arna station was constructed. The old Arna station still exists, and it is used for the heritage trains that operate on the old Voss Railway in the summer months (click here for more info). 

    Arna is a borough of Bergen with a population of 13,000. With the rumours of a road tunnel, Arna is becoming a more attractive place for people to live. 

    Osterøy

    Island

    After Arna, we begin travelling along the Osterfjord, which is on the left side. If you want to get some photos of the fjord you have to be quick – there are many, many tunnels on this part of the journey!

    The Osterfjord is around 27km (17 mi) long, 1 – 3km wide (0.62 – 1.86 mi) and the deepest point reaches a depth of 639m (2096ft) below sea level.

    On the other side is the island Osterøy. It is Norway’s largest inland island (i.e. not directly adjacent to the ocean) at 328km2 (127 sq mi).

    There are two road bridges that connect Osterøy to the mainland. We’ll pass one of them – the Osterøy Bridge – which is from 1997.

    Trengereid

    Village

    Trengereid is a small village that is still part of Bergen. The village is known for its fabrics factory, established in 1895. At one point, the Trengereid Fabrikker (1895-1999) was one of the major Norwegian manufacturers o lace, ribbon, cord and elastic. You can learn more about the factory on the Industrial Museum website.

    Trengereid is the starting point for many hikes on Bergen’s easternmost mountains, including the tallest mountain in Bergen municipality: Gullfjellet.

    On your right side will the the residential neighbourhood, high on the hillside. On your left will be the fjord, the old factories and the docking facilities.

    Only the Bergen – Voss railway stops here. The station was built in 1908.

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    Dale

    Village

    Dale is located on the western end of the Bergsdalen valley. The population is 1,193. Historically, Dale has been an industrial place. The town was built around the Dale Power Plant and the Dale Factories. When the factories were built around 1879, there was only one small farm. By the end of the 19th century, the factory had around 500 employees.

    On your right side, you’ll be able to see Dale Church (from 1956) as we approach the village. Also on the right side will be the Dale of Norway factory, a famous company that manufactures wool sweaters. There is also a textile mill here.

    The Dale Factory is open, and there is an outlet store if you want to buy a sweater or some yarn at a discounted price (the sweaters are famously expensive!). 

    The E16 (European Highway 16) runs through Dale. Dale Station is mostly used by the Bergen – Voss Railway, though some express trains do stop here. The station is from 1888.

    Voss

    Town

    The journey between Dale and Voss is very scenic, with a famous salmon river alongside side. 

    Eventually the tunnels end and the Voss Lake appears on our right-hand side. For most of the year, the mountains in the background will have snow on them. 

    With a population of 14,168, Voss is a large town and main hub for the region. It’s located between the Sognefjord and the Hardangerfjord, which has made it attractive for tourists. 

    Shortly on your right, just as the train approaches the station, is the Fleischer’s Hotel. The hotel was completed in 1889 in the Swiss Style. The name ‘Fleischer’ comes from a well-known family who have lived in Voss for many generations. The hotel is lovely, and if you want to break up the journey this is a highly recommended place to stay. Voss is a great place to spend a couple days – here’s the VisitNorway page for the town. 

    Voss Station was opened as the original terminal station of the Voss Line in 1883. It was on this platform that King Haakon officially opened the Bergen Railway on 27 November 1909.

    Sometimes the train will spend 10-20 minutes here before continuing. If that’s the case, you can leave the train and take some photos of the hotel and the troll statues that are along the platform.

    You will notice the huge Voss Gondola on the platform. This is a brand new attraction (completed in 2020), and if you go to the top you’ll have amazing views. Click here to view their website. 

    Shortly after leaving the station, you’ll pass the old Voss Church (Vangskyrkja). The church is from the mid-13th century and is built in a Gothic style. The whole region was Christianised by King Olav (Saint Olav), and the first church (a wooden church) was built shortly after that. This stone church replaced the old wooden church. Amazingly, the church was not destroyed during World War II.

    After the church, you’ll see the main downtown area of Voss. It’s very concrete and may seem unattractive. The reason for the concrete facades is the destruction from World War II. After the German invasion of Norway on 9 April 1940, Voss was the main place for the Norwegian Army in the West. The Nazis were met with strong resistance from the Norwegians here. To break down the resistance, the Luftwaffe bombed Voss on 23 and 24 April. The bombing completely destroyed the historic town centre. 

    Voss Travel Guide

    Mjølfjell

    Hiking Area

    Once we are out of Voss, the scenery begins to become more dramatic. The stretch between Voss and Myrdal takes us through a narrow, rocky valley. On your right will be spectacular views out to the mountains.

    We pass many stations along the way, but the train very rarely stops there. Sometimes they do if someone on board has requested the train stop. One such station that may have a stop is Mjølfjell.

    Mjølfjell is a village with mostly cabins – in total, there are about 500 cabins here. Most are used as vacation homes by people from Bergen. The area is very popular for hiking and skiing. In the village you’ll find a grocery store, a chapel, and a military training facility.

    The area grew after the establishment of the Bergen Line. There used to be a number of mountain hotels here. One still stands: the Mjølfjell Mountain Lodge. It is a high-end hotel with an outdoor pool, sauna, hiking trails, ski resort, and much more. Mjølfjell does have road access: the road actually ends here. All the following platforms have no road access.

    The name Mjølfjell refers to the mountain: the colour of the white anorthosite looks like flour, which in Norwegian is mjøl. So the name is ‘Flour Mountain’.

    Upsete

    Hiking Area

    Much like Mjølfjell, Upsete is another place the train may stop at if it’s requested. Upsete does not have a road access. There is a lovely place to stay: Upsete Fjellstove. The hotel is open in the summer and offers hikes and bikes that you can ride on the Rallarvegen.

    The train station opened in 1908 as Opset Station; the name Upsete came in 1921.

    Myrdal

    Junction with the Flåm Railway

    Myrdal is a tiny station but it is very well known due to its location. Myrdal is one end of the famous Flåm Railway – the train journey down to the Flåm village is often regarded as one of the most beautiful train journeys in the world.

    The connection to Flåm was not intended for tourists; rather, it was established to link the Sognefjord to the main Bergen – Oslo train and transport goods and people up from the fjord region. Originally, the connection was supposed to go from Voss down to Gudvangen. In 1908, the decision was made to have the train go from Myrdal to Flåm. They estimated that 22,000 passengers would use the train a year. In 2008, the passenger count was almost 600,000!

    The majority of people who come to Myrdal don’t spend long here; instead they use it as a place to change trains. There is no road connection to Myrdal.

    People did used to live in Myrdal; there are remains of old iron ore mining and animal husbandry. Nobody lives here anymore, though some do own cabins here.

    The station is located between two tunnels on the Bergen Line: The Gravahals Tunnel to the west and the Vatnahalsen Tunnel to the east.

    Myrdal has three platforms. Platform 1 is the principal platform on the mainline, and platform 2 is the alternative mainline platform located on the passing loop. The non-consecutively numbered platform 11 is the platform used by local trains to and from Flåm. The passing loop allows regional trains to cross with freight trains. At the station you’ll find toilets, a cafeteria, a souvenir shop, and a waiting room. The shops are only open in summer.

    Tip:  As we leave Myrdal, keep your eyes on the left. For a few seconds we’ll be able to see down the entire Flåm Valley. It’s just before going into a tunnel!

    Flåm Travel Guide

    Hallingskied

    Hiking Area

    Hallingskeid is the westernmost station of the high mountain stations. It is regarded as one of the snowiest areas on the Bergen Railway. Due to the ewather, the station is located inside a ‘snow superstructure’. These structures are built over railways to protect them from snow in the most exposed areas. A total of 9.5km of the Bergen Railway has a snow superstructure; mostly in Hallingskeid.

    There are no permanent residents at Hallingskeid; the station is operated remotely. In he area are many hiking trails, the Rallarvegen cycle path, and cabins.

    The train will stop here upon request. 

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    Finse Tunnel

    Tunnel

    Just before we get to Finse will be the Finse Tunnel. It is the longest tunnel on the Bergen Railway: 10,589m! (6.5 mi). The tunnel was built to ensure the train could operate all winter. The highest point on the Bergen Railway, 1237m above sea level (4058ft), is passed while we are inside the tunnel.

    Tip: As we leave the tunnel, keep an eye out on the right-hand side for a view of the glacier. If the weather is good, you’ll be able to see it here.

    Finse

    Highest Point

    We’ve made it to Finse! Finse is the highest station on the Bergen Railway and is known across Norway for its plethora of outdoor activities.

    Haugastøl

    Hiking Area

    Haugastøl is another high mountain station that can be stopped at upon request. The station has been unattended since 1997. The station is designed in a mix between the National Romantic Style and Art Nouveau and is from 1908. Haugastøl was originally known as Fjellberg, Norway’s highest altitude farm. People lived there until 1909, and today it is a holiday home.

    Haugastøl marks the end point of the Rallarvegen in the west.

    Geilo

    Ski Town

    Geilo is a small town with around 2,400 people living there. It’s located in the Hallingdal valley, a traditional region in Eastern Norway. Before the train came to Geilo, the area was remote with a few scattered farms.

    Geilo was established as a town when the Bergen Line was constructed. The train facilitated Geilo’s development as the first skiing resort in the country, and it is still one of the largest. It is also known for having some of the most luxurious and expensive holiday cabins in Norway.

    The ski season in Geilo runs from late October to late April, and there are numerous ski centres here for alpine and cross country skiing. Click here for more information about visiting Geilo. 

    Shortly after leaving Geilo, we pass the old Hol station from 1911. Hol Municipality is the largest municipality in Hallingdal, and 91% of the area is located at more than 900m above sea level. 

    The train continues to decrease dramatically. 

    Geilo Travel Guide

    Ål

    Village

    Ål is a small town with around 5,000 people living here. There is a strong cultural tradition here, and folk music is important to the community. The Folkemusikkveka is held every May. The traditional industry here is mostly farming. Many livestock farms ae in operation with small herds of sheep, dairy cattle, and goats. Crop growing is difficult because of the steep valley walls.

    Ål station is served by six express trains, and the station has historic locomotive stables that are protected by the Directorate of Cultural Heritage.

    We are roughly at the midpoint of the Bergen Railway. The train is now 228km from Oslo and 243km from Bergen.

    After Ål, the scenery begins to flatten with forests, rivers, and modest mountain areas. We pass Torpo Station, which used to be the central station in Hallingdal. The station is built in the Art Nouveau style and is identical to the station we saw at Geilo. One of the big attractions here is the Torpo Stave Church.

    Click here for the Ål Tourist Info Site. 

    Gol

    Village

    Gol is part of the Hallingdal Valley. There was a very ancient settlement here; in the year 1000, there were around 26 farms in Gol.

    Gol is located at the crossroads between the E7, Highway 52, and County Road 51, which takes you to Fagernes and the E16. From Gol, you have excellent connections to Valdres, Hemsedal, Laerdal and Sogn.

    Gol does have an industrial feel to it, but there are some fun things to do here as well. The Gordarike Family Park is a theme park designed around the Viking Era. A modern replica of the Gol Stave Church has been built as a tourist attraction in the park. Gol used to have a real stave church, but in the 19th century they sold it to the Oslo Folk Museum, where it currently stands. There’s also an open-air museum located in Gol. It is built around an old farm and consists of barns, lofts and wooden stables plus a mill, school and cabin.

    The station is from 1907 and is a busy station. Historically, this was a junction and important trading centre with heavy traffic.

    The station is served by up to six dailway express trains. This station opened in 1907.

    Just after the train leaves Gol, there are many farms located up on the valley side.

    Get the Guide!

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    View our guide

    Nesbyen

    Town

    Nesbyen is a small town with a population of around 3,500. It has a historic town centre, called Gamle Nes. Most buildings here are from before 1900. The area was mentioned in documents from the 1600s, when the valley of Hallingdal was ruled from Nesbyen. Here’s a nice self-guided walk around Nesbyen. 

    One of the big attractions here is the Hallingdal Museum, which is one of the oldest open-air museums in Norway (from 1899). It has a large collection of wold buildings; the oldest one is the staveloftet from 1340. Another popular place to visit is the old meteor crater just noth of the town. About 650 million years ago, a 200-300m meteorite struck the area.

    There are many outdoor activities to do here. The most popular hike is up Hallingnatten, which is 1314m above sea level. From the top you can see most of Southern Norway, including Jotunheimen in the north and Gaustatoppen in the southwest.

    Nesbyen is known around Norway for having the highest recorded temperature in the country. The record was 35.6C, recorded on 20 June 1970.

    The E7 is located along Nesbyen, which is built over an ancient trade route from Valdres through to Odda in Western Norway.

    The station is served by up to six daily express trains. This station opened in 1907. Trains often stop here. This used to be a central station equipped with turntable for turning locomotives and several industrial tracks.

    Just after Nesbyen is the railway’s longest straight stretch. There are dense forest on both sides of the train. The railway follows the eastern side of the Hallingdal River, while the national highway is on the opposite side.

    Tip: Keep an eye out for the Austvoll Water Tower on the right. In the era of steam locomotives, these water towers were common along the railway. The train had to stop often to replenish so the pressure on the boiler didn’t fail.

    Flå

    Town

    Flå is the last settlement we’ll pass in the Hallingdal valley. Like Nesbyen and Ål, it’s located on the ancient trade route that went through Valdres to Odda in Western Norway. Flå has a population of around 1,000.

    Flå is surorunded by stunning nature. There are forests, agriculture, and mountains as high as 1500m. Flå’s coat-of-arms is the head of a black bear. Close to the town is the conservation area where Norway’s last permanent bear population lived. Today you can see bears in Flå if you visit the Bear Park, which is popular with kids. They don’t just have bears; they also have elk, deer, wolf and lynx.

    The station is served by up two daily express trains. This station opened in 1907. We don’t see much of the village from the station because it’s about 1km away.

    After leaving Flå, we follow the Hallingdal River. Eventually we’ll start passing the Krøder Lake, which was named “Norway’s finest Lake” by Fridtjof Nansen. 

    Hønefoss

    Town

    Hønefoss is a large town and central hub with a population of around 14,000. The town name comes from the waterfall that runs through the town; you will get a glimpse of it as the train leaves the station. The town experienced huge growth during the beginning of industrialisation; the waterfall was exploited for power and sawmills went up in the region. The railway to Drammen was also important for the industrial town.

    Hønefoss is located on the E16, which is the main highway between Bergen and Oslo. It’s also connected to the Norwegian National Road 35 and the National Road 7. The town is located to several factories, including Norske Skog Follum, which works in the timber industry.

    There are many things to see and do in Hønefoss. One of the highlights is the Ringerikes Museum, which is known for its collection of iron, rune stones, and for holding the private collection of Jørgen Engebretsen Moe. Jørgen was a Norwegian author best known for writing a collection of Norwegian folkales which he edited in collaboration with Peter Christen Asbjørnsen. The Norwegian Train Museum is also located here, where the old locomotives are. In cooperation with the Norwegian Railway Club, it is working on the restoration, maintenance and operation of all railway equipment.

    By the station is one of the country’s largest stone vault bridges, built in granite.

    The stretch of railway between Drammen and Hønefoss was completed in 1868 and was used primarily for cargo.

    The idea of a railway between Drammen and Hønefoss was launched in 1846, before any other railways were constructed in Norway. However, nothing happened for a long time. In fact, even the idea of a canal was floated. In 1863, Parliament approved construction of a line between Hønefoss and Drammen. The railway was completed in 1868. The next plan was the Bergen Line, which opened in 1909.

    The region we are in is called Ringerike. It is rich in history and ancient culture. The region has a rich food culture, and the Ringerikspotatoes are quite famous.

    After we leave the station, we’ll be going alongside Tyrifjord’s western side. Tyrifjord is actually the country’s fifth largest lake, and the maximum depth is about 330m. There are 13 fish species in the lake, making it known for its rich fisheries. 

    Vikersund

    Town

    Vikersund is a small town with a population of around 3,200. Historically, the town has been important for the paper industry. Timber was floated down on the Tyrifjord to the Drammen River, where it could then be exported.

    Today Vikersund is known amongst Norwegians for its Ski Jumping Centre. The Vikersund Ski Jump is the world’s largest, and there are seven different slopes within the complex.

    Vikersund was part of the Krøder Railway, which was completed in 1872 and primarily used for industry and transporting passengers. In the summer they operate special steam trains that you can ride.

    After Vikkersund the train passes several old industrial sites that grew up along the river when industrial travel took over towards the end of the 19th century.

    Hokksund

    Town

    Hokksund is a small community that was built up around an old farm. Part of the growth of the town can be attributed to the nearby silver mines at Kongsberg. When silver was discovered in Kongsberg in 1623, the King decided that a road should be built between Kongsberg and Hokksund. This road is the first official road in Norway.

    The railway came to Hokksund in 1866, and this gave way to the development of the local business community. Several businesses still stand along the railway track. The original station burned down in 1897, and the new one was finished a year later. The station is designed in a monumental masonry style, and it is the oldest and best preserved station on this part of the journey.

    After Hokksund, you go across the plainlands of the Drammen Valley. The Drammen river is on our left.

    Drammen

    City

    Drammen is a large city with around 60,000 people living here. The city is located west of the Oslofjord on the Drammen River. Drammen was built up as a trading and industrial city; keep an eye out on the left as we go through Drammen; you’ll see beautiful old factories and the town centre.

    The station opened in 1866 when the railway between Hønefoss and Drammen was completed. From Drammen, you can change trains and take the Sørlandet Line towards Kristiansand and Stavanger.The station is also served by trains to Oslo, Kongsberg and Eidsvoll, regional trains on the Vestfold Line and express trains to Bergen and Kristiansand. Since 2009, it has been the terminus of the Oslo Airport Express train.

    The station has recently been modernised and expanded.

    Shortly after leaving Drammen, we pass the Drammensfjord on the right and the hill area towards Finnemarka on the right. This is one of the most fertile areas in the country.

    Sandvika

    Neighbourhood

    The train may stop at Sandvika. Sandvika has had city status since 2003. The Crown Prince’s residence is at Skaugum. The site goes back to the Middle Ages. It was handed to Prince Olav in 1929, and today it is private property of the royal family, unlike the Royal Palace and OscarsHall, which is owned by the state.

    Oslo Tunnel

    Tunnel

    The last part of our journey is not very scenic: we have to make our way to the other end of Oslo city centre, and to do that we must go through the Oslo Tunnel. The Oslo tunnel is about 3.6km long and opened in 1980, the same time as the Oslo Central Station. Before this, Oslo had two stations: Oslo East and Oslo West. As you can imagine, it was not very practical. Today Oslo West is the Nobel Peace Centre, while Oslo East has been expanded into Oslo Central Station.

    Oslo

    City

    You have made it to Oslo! You can find my guide to Oslo by clicking the button below. 

    Oslo Travel Guide

    Get the Guide!

    We have a printer-friendly guide to the popular Norway in a Nutshell trip. This guide includes information about each point of interest, including historical overview and images. 

    You can find the guide over on our store. 

    View our guide
  • Flåm, Lærdal, Stave Churches

    Why You Should Visit Borgund Stave Church

    Why You Should Visit Borgund Stave Church

    No trip to Norway is complete without a visit to Borgund Stave Church. But why this church out of the 28 remaining stave churches in the country? I’ll admit, Borgund Stave Church is not my favourite in the country, but it is very important. After all, Bogund is exceptionally well preserved and recognised as the most distinctive stave church in Norway. So, if you want to get an idea of the original stave churches, this one is great.

    Borgund Stave Church is about 30km southeast of the town Laerdal, which is close to Flåm. The church stands on the historic main road between east and west Norway. Today the European Highway 16 (E16) follows the old main road. It’s one of the best known, most photographed, and best-preserved stave churches in the country.

    I’ve written a useful overview of Borgund Stave Church, so you know why it’s so special. Also, it’s nice to know what to look for when visiting! If you have any tips or questions, please leave them in the comments.

    In this article...

    The E16 Highway

    Borgund Stave Church is located on the E16, the main highway between Bergen and Oslo. You can find my guide to the E16 by clicking the link below. 

    The E16 Highway
    Lærdal Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Borgund Stave Church

    Early History & Position

    The exact age of Borgund Stave Church is unknown. It is possibly as old as 1150 when looking at the timber. However, the church is generally regarded as being from around the year 1200. It is dedicated to the apostle Andrew.

    Borgund Stave Church is on the historic main road between east and west Norway, which was primarily used as a trade route for over 1000 years. This part of the valley widens, and the Laerdal River flows through it. With its strategic position, it’s clear to see why it became such an important place of worship. But it’s not just about trade: the valley has an abundance of pine trees, and it was necessary to build close to a pine forest. The valley is also sheltered in this section.

    The first written mention of Borgund Stave Church is in a land register in the diocese of Bergen, written down shortly after 1350. Borgund is in many written documents as the church has always been important to the study of stave churches.

    Important Worshipping Site

    The location of the church is important. Being on the main road meant that travellers couldn’t help but be influenced by the church and the new Catholic religion. There was a sacrificial site on the hill, and animal bones have been found there. Perhaps the area was once used by pagans, giving another reason for building a church here. The old stone altar in the church probably once stood on the sacrificial site.

    Construction Method

    The church is very well documented, especially compared to other stave churches in the country. Stave churches get their name from their construction method. Here at Borgund, you can see the vertical wooden beams along the walls holding up the roof.

    The church is built according to a basilica plan with a raised central nave. Structurally, the building is a ‘cube within a cube’, each cube being independent of one another. The inner ‘cube’ has continuous columns that rise from the ground level to support the roof. ‘Saint Andrew Crosses’ link the columns: these carry supports that offer the visual equivalent of a ‘second story’. While not a functional gallery, it is reminiscent of contemporary second-story galleries elsewhere in Europe.

    Around the exterior of the church is a corridor with a roof. A guide once said that this is where the Vikings would keep their swords and shields while they attended church. But another common theory is that it was where people gathered before and after mass, and the roof provided shelter.

    Dragon Heads

    One of the most known characteristics of a stave church is its dragons’ heads on the roof, but very few stave churches in Norway have dragon’s heads. Borgund Stave Church is one of the very few with carved dragon’s heads. They are from the 18th century and likely copies of the earlier heads.

    Dragons heads are also found on Lom Stave Church and Urnes Stave Church.

    Why dragons heads? I’m working on a separate article that explains the construction and symbolism in stave churches in much more depth, but we can talk about the dragons’ heads a little here too. Christianity came to this region around 997, around 200 years before Borgund Stave Church. It’s believed that the population continued to keep to the pagan tradition and faith well into the Christian times. Because of that, many pagan symbols with pre-Christian backgrounds, including dragons, have made it onto Christian buildings.

    Dragons’ heads feature on Viking ships, and they are believed to keep evil spirits away. That is one reason why they are on stave churches. Another reason is that the construction of the roof is like shipbuilding, and since dragons feature on ships, they should be on the roof too.

    Fun fact: the dragons’ heads weren’t only for style: they also formed the churches drainage system!

    Changes after the Reformation

    Stave churches were not spared from the Reformation that swept Norway in the 1530s. The conversion to Lutheran Protestantism saw many changes in these old Catholic Churches. At Borgund, benches line the walls: during Catholic times, it was compulsory to stand for hours! The pulpit and nave are from Lutheran times, and the walls are rose-painted: some of the rose-painting has survived.

    Another common feature of a post-Reformation church is the introduction of windows so the community could read scripture. Borgund got many new windows but all except one have been removed in a later renovation.

    19th century growth & restoration

    The community around Borgund experienced a huge rise in population in the early 19th century. By the 1840s the stave church was too small for the public. The new Borgund Church is from 1868, the same year service at the stave church ended. Rather than tear the stave church down, as what happened to many stave churches, Borgund was preserved. This is probably because it had been so well documented and painted throughout history. The general perception had been that Borgund was special. So, it was sold to the Preservation for Ancient Norwegian Monuments.

    A large amount of restoration work was done on the church to bring it closer to its medieval form. The pews were removed, except for the ones from the 1150s along the wall. The window openings were closed, except for one window. Some of the original paintwork was restored too.

    Wooden carvings

    Like Urnes Stave Church (which is UNESCO World Heritage-listed), Borgund Stave Church has a lot of detail around its western portal. In addition to animal motifs, there are acanthus vines, fighting snakes and flying dragons. Due to being found in many places in this part of Norway, they are places under a collective term called the Sogn-Valdres Group (Sogn and Valdres are two regions: Sogn after the Sognefjord and Valdres in central Norway).

    Why pagan carvings around the door? Well, like the dragons’ heads, it’s believed the new Christians kept to some of their pagan traditions. Another reasoning is that Christian authorities may have interpreted the pagan symbols as the struggle between good and evil, in line with Christian medieval art. After all, in Christian art, the dragon was often used as a symbol for the devil. So, the carvings probably had a protective quality. The carvings at Urnes Stave Church are also read as the struggle between good and evil, or between paganism and Christianity.

    Sadly part of the carvings was damaged after the church door was rebuilt in the 1820s. One of the stave churches caught fire in 1822 and 113 people died because the doors opened inwards and they were unable to get out. After that, a rule was made that all churches had to have doors that opened outwards.

    Runic inscriptions

    When visiting a stave church, always be on the lookout for rune inscriptions! There are several ones here. Most are on the walls of the church’s west portal. One reads: “Thor wrote these runes in the evening at the St. Olav’s Mass”.

    Interior decoration

    The interior of Borgund is very dark, so it is useful to have a guide with you. They have torches and can show you all the individual features.

    There is little inside, and some may be disappointed, but it is also very true to what stave churches looked like inside during medieval times. There is a row of benches along the wall from the 1150s that were used by the elderly. There’s also a soapstone font, an altar from the 17th century, a 16th-century lectern, and a 16th-century cupboard for storing altar vessels.

    Inside you’ll be able to see the twelve free-standing columns that support the naves elevated central space and the Saint Andrews Crosses connecting them. The original floors have been preserved but are today covered due to the number of people visiting.

    The many Borgunds

    Because Borgund Stave Church is so well documented throughout history, and today it is famous for being the most distinctive stave church, many other churches have taken inspiration from it. It has served as the inspiration for the reconstruction of Fantoft Stave Church in Bergen. The Gustav Adolf Stave Church in Germany, built in 1908, is modelled after Borgund Stave Church. There are also three replicas in the USA: Chapel in the Hills in South Dakota, Lyme in Connecticut and Washington Island in Wisconsin. Furthermore, the stave church at the Norwegian pavilion in Epcot in Walt Disney World Florida is a copy of Gol Stave Church, which was reconstructed to look more like Borgund Stave Church.

    New Borgund Church

    Don’t skip a visit to the new Borgund Church from 1868. It’s built in the dragestil and seats 175. Dragestil is a Norwegian architectural style that emerged during the period of National Romanticism when the country was interested in preserving the medieval style of construction – especially when it came to stave churches.

    Exterior bell tower

    Another exterior feature is the bell tower. It dates back to the middle of the 13th century and is the only original free-standing bell tower in stavework in Norway today. The bells are fairly new: one of the medieval bells is in the new Borgund Church.

    Visiting Borgund Stave Church

    When you visit, you have to park at the visitor centre and buy a ticket inside. Then, it’s about a 200-metre walk to the stave church – you have to cross the main road, so be careful! There will be a staff member by the church gate, and you won’t be allowed in without a ticket. Try and time your visit with a guided tour – it’s necessary to truly appreciate all the fine details in the church. Just ask when buying your ticket.

    The visitor centre is also worth your time. It has a small museum with items from the church, plus an excellent gift shop and café.

    The surrounding area is rich in cultural heritage. Close by is the King’s Road, which is the preserved part of the ancient road between east and west. Take a detour and drive along the old part, parking along the way to do Vindhellvegen, an old hairpin road turned hiking trail. It’s a short and easy path.

    I recommend having a rental car, but you can get to Borgund via public buses. There are a few a day that links you with Sogndal, Laerdal and Flåm, so you’ll have to plan well. In summer, there are guided bus tours from Flåm that I’d recommend over relying on public buses. The drive from Flåm is a little under one hour.

    Opening Hours: 15 May 2021 – 10 October 2021 daily 10am – 5pm

    Tickets: Adults 100 NOK / Children 40 NOK

    Up-to-date and more detailed info can be found here: https://www.stavechurch.com/our-stave-churches/borgund-stave-churc/?lang=en

    Parking: Free by the visitor centre. Do not park next to the stave church

    Restrooms: Inside the visitor centre

    Resources

    The E16 Highway

    Borgund Stave Church is located on the E16, the main highway between Bergen and Oslo. You can find my guide to the E16 by clicking the link below. 

    The E16 Highway
    Lærdal Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide
  • Bergen, Walking Guides

    Walking on Water: A Walk Through the Development of Bergen’s City Centre

    Vågsbunnen: The Development of Bergen City Centre

    Explore the district of Vågsbunnen, where the city centre of Bergen was built up from the 13th century to the present day! Along the walk, you’ll see some of the oldest homes, churches, and gardens in Bergen.

    Vågsbunnen Historical Overview

    Welcome to this self-guided walk through Vågsbunnen, the name of the district that today comprises where Bergen’s city centre was from the 14th to early 20th century. This district has an original street plan and many original buildings from 1702 onwards. On our walk, we’ll learn about how the people in Bergen developed Vågsbunnen into a city centre to get away from the Hanseatic merchants at Bryggen.

    The area Vågsbunnen used to be a shallow cove that ended in a marsh area. Over time, the wetland area was replenished by natural sludge and illegal garbage dumping, not least by the craftsmen who settled here. Vågsbunnen is one of Bergen’s earliest districts: while merchants settled along Bryggen, the craftsmen settled in this area. Archaeological research shows that the earliest settlement in Vågsbunnen was close to the two churches, which were both by the waterfront. Vågsbunnen became a popular district for shoemakers. Large amounts of leather and tannery waste have been found in the soil.
    Vågsbunnen became known as a district for craftsmen: Kong Oscars Gate used to be called Tailors Street, and we still have Shoe Street (Skostredet) today. Eventually, merchants from England and Scotland settled on the shoreline of the bay and established small trading businesses there. From 1490, the trading district was taken over by Dutch merchants in an attempt to compete with the Hanseatic League.

    Bergen has suffered from many fires (lots of buildings in wood and little regulation will do that), and after a fire in the 1550s, the area turned more into a residential area for craftsmen and the bourgeoise. The governors were tired of the Hanseatic League, so Bergen’s commercial and political centre was moved away from Bryggen to Vågsbunnen. The bay was further filled in using stone from ruined churches, and new commercial buildings were built. The two main ‘allmenningen’ – or wide streets – are from this time.

    The fire of 1702 was the last major fire to destroy Vågsbunnen. Besides the stone cellars and churches, nothing remains from before 1702. After this fire, the area was further developed into an upper-class district. But this didn’t last long; in the 19th century, the bourgeoisie began to move to wider, greener districts like Kalfaret and Nygård. Meanwhile, the houses in Vågsbunnen were divided into apartments and inn, and the district became a little rough and overcrowded. Masonry was (finally) introduced, and new brick tenements went up.
    Meanwhile, Bergen was becoming industrialised. The Lungegård Lake was split in two and heavily filled in to make way for the construction of industrial plants, the train station, and the library. After the last major fire in 1916, the Little Lungegård Lake was further filled in to make a lovely park: Byparken.

    Today Vågsbunnen is still a popular area for bars, cafes, vintage shops and tattoo parlours. It’s a safe district to walk around, but it can feel a little rough in some areas. Still, no other place in Bergen has such a diverse history. Let’s begin our walk!

    In this article...

    Bergen Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    The walk: Vågsbunnen

    Holberg Statue

    We are now standing on water! Yes, this square we are on – Vågsallmenningen – was water 1,000 years ago. What an appropriate place to begin our Walking on Water tour. Across the street, where the fish market is, is where the current shoreline of Vågen (the bay) ends. However, when Bergen was founded over 950 years ago, most of what is today the city centre was actually water. Over the centuries, the bay and lake area have gradually filled in to allow for the development of a city centre. That is what we’ll see today.

    Vågsallmenningen was filled in during the 1550s and the layout is pretty much the same today. Of course, most of the buildings are much newer. On this walk, almost all the buildings we’ll see are from after the fire of 1702. That was Bergen’s largest fire when 90% of the city burned down. The city has always used timber as a primary building material, and Bergen is best described as ‘self-grown’. There were no real street regulations until the mid-19th century. Hence, the fires. Small wooden houses close together without much planning.

    The statue here is of Ludvig Holberg. He was a Danish-Norwegian playwright, historian and philosopher from Bergen. He is known for his comedy plays, and his writings on common law were used by Danish law students for 200 years. While born in Bergen, he spent almost all his life in Copenhagen. Still, we claim him as our own. Edvard Grieg’s Holberg Suite is named after him. The statue is from the mid-19th century and is regarded as one of the finest in Bergen.

    Korskirkeallmenningen

    When walking around Bergen, “allmenningen” is a word you’ll see often. It refers to a wide, open street designed to prevent fires from spreading rapidly between buildings. Most of Bergen’s main streets end in this long word all-men-ing-en. These were Bergen’s only real form of street regulation, and the oldest ones go back to the 14th century. Most, however, are from the 16th century. Including this one.

    If we were standing here in the 1200s, we’d be standing on swampland. The church – Korskirken – would be where we see it today. It stood on a small headland by the water; the tower stands on solid rock. From the 13th century, German shoemakers began to settle to the right of the church. After a fire in 1582, the swamp was filled in. For a time, it was one of the city’s most prominent areas with beautiful houses and linden trees lining the street. Most of the buildings today are from modern times.

    Korskirken

    Korskirken is one of the earliest Bergen churches. It was likely built in wood but replaced with a stone church before 1180 when it’s first mentioned in the old Sagas. Sadly, the church has burned down in 17 of Bergen’s fires. It’s always been rebuilt in a Romanesque style, but the floorplan has changed over time. Today it is a cruciform church.

    On the northern side of the church, it’s possible to see the monogram of Danish-Norwegian King Christian IV. The portal shows damage from the fires. On the other side of the church is a memorial commemorating the dead at the Battle of Alvøen, which took place during the Napoleonic Wars.

    The church no longer operates as a regular church. Today it is a missionary church that helps the homeless and those struggling with drug and alcohol abuse.

    Hollendergaten

    Hollendergaten is one of the first merchant settlements for this part of town. Originally, merchants settled along the east side (Bryggen) and west side (Nordnes peninsula). Archaeological research shows that the street follows the shoreline from the 1000s. The first people to settle here were English merchants in the late 1200s or early 1300s. Over time, the English left and the Dutch settled into Bergen in an attempt to outperform the Hanseatic merchants. The name Hollendergaten means ‘Dutch Street’ and the name is from 1490.

    In the 1600s and 1700s, Hollendergaten became a distinguished street. Many of Bergen’s bourgeoise families lived here. In the 1800s, the bourgeoise moved into new, spacier suburbs Kalfaret and Nygård. The houses here were broken up into cramped apartments and inns.

    The side we have entered today has the church missionary (Kirkens Bymisjon), plus a hostel for the homeless (no. 15). You may see people sitting around but don’t worry – they are harmless.

    Smalgangen

    Smalgangen – ‘the Narrow Aisle’ – is first mentioned on maps from 163 but is far older. It’s a great example of what the streets in Bergen used to look like. Streets were narrow like this so as many businesses as possible could be on the bay. Smalgangen connected Hollendergaten with the piers on the bay. Look up at the first stone building on the left (in the alley). In iron, it has the date “1609” marked as well as the initials “HD”. This is one of the few houses preserved from 17th century Bergen. Further down the alley is a plaque in the wall with the inscription “Herman Schreuder Margrethe Schreuder”. There’s no date, but merchant Herman Schreuder was known to live here in the late 1600s. The plaque was discovered during an excavation in 1937 and has been placed on a 17th century stone cellar.

    Hollendergaten 12

    The white stone building on the street corner is one of the oldest houses in Bergen. A lot of people skip it when walking here because wooden buildings are more unique, but this beauty gives you an idea into what houses looked like in the 1600s if they followed the rules and built with stone instead of wood!

    Hollendergaten 10

    As the city was built up, plots had to be narrow due to the lack of available land and high demand of being close to the piers. Hollendergaten 10 is a typical example of plot size, and it has had this shape since the 1500s. The wooden part is from after the 1702 fire. As with many houses here, it was originally one storey: the second was added in 1847.

    Today the building is protected and since 1948 it has been a printing press. You’ll notice it has an exterior sign of a book. This is an ancient custom in Bergen. For a very long time, most people couldn’t read, so the businesses would not have names out the front but instead these signs. For example, bakers had pretzel signs. This book shows that this business is a printing press.

    There is a beautiful portal on the house, and on the steps, you’ll see a lion. This is supposed to reflect the coat of arms and therefore represents the king. This ties into one of the most stories from this street – that of Dyveke from Amsterdam.

    Hollendergaten 7

    The cellar underneath is from the 1500s or 1600s. Between this house and its neighbour is a narrow alley called “Dyvekegangen”. This is the narrowest alley in Bergen: 90cm wide! Head halfway down it and turn left – you’ll see the original entrance into the cellar. There is a bit of a smell here – today the building is a wine bar. On the exterior are two signboards. One depicts King Christian III, and one depicts Dyveke. Dyveke and her mother lived in this street, and Dyveke was the mistress of King Christian III. The story is fascinating: I’ve included it at the back of this guide.

    Bryggesporen

    The little stretch of road to your left is called Bryggesporen, while the road to your right is called Kong Oscars Gate. ‘Brygge’ means ‘quay’, while ‘spord’ refers to something compressed. ‘Spord’ is a medieval word, and it marks the place where the seafront of Bryggen ended and twisted into a narrow, southbound street.

    The orange/red brick building across the street has been a bakery since at least 1675 – though the building has changed over time. This area was an area where people of various crafts settled, and being a bakery was one of the highest-end crafts. There was a baker’s guild, and they strictly limited the number of bakers in a city to 22. The bakeries were typically passed down through the family. This one was owned by the Martens family. Eventually, the bakery closed, and since then the building has been several cafes and restaurants.

    The McDonalds was built shortly after the 1702 fire and was a private residence for a wealthy merchant. The façade is from 1830 and is one of the best examples of 1830s wooden architecture.

    Kong Oscars Gate

    This is one of the oldest streets in Bergen (from the 1300s) and one of the oldest road connections in and out of the city. Bergen’s landscape is very isolated, and until the mid-19th century, it was common to come into Bergen by boat. Coming in by land was far rarer, and this road was the only one that required no use of ferries.

    The dense settlement didn’t come until the 19th century. Until the 18th century, this was an area of scattered homes and pastures for grazing animals. Eventually, it became known as an area for wealthy merchants. Further down, closer to the city border, institutions and schools were built.

    Start walking along Kong Oscars Gate. The best side to stay on is opposite McDonald’s. Shortly on our right (a few houses down) will be an excellent overview of the old cityscape.

    Korskirkeveiten & Tre-Kroneren

    When you get to the small red hotdog stand, look behind it. I know, it’s tempting to go straight for the hot dog, but stick with me. The view you see behind you – the tower of Korskirken, the wooden houses, and the stone cellar – is an excellent example of what Bergen looked like in the 1500s.

    Korskirkeveiten is one of the oldest and narrowest streets in Bergen. It is leftover from medieval times and probably marks where the shoreline was in the 1000s. Archaeological excavations have found that the area was an open beach until the 1230s. After that, large soil masses were used to fill in the area. We know this is around the time German shoemakers began to settle here. Just behind the hot dog stand is a stone cellar from the 1600s. It is one of the best examples in Bergen, but sadly not much is being done to preserve it. That can be said of this whole area: Despite being such a fantastic example of old Bergen, it has a very grungy feel. It is safe, but I can understand the discomfort.

    I do recommend taking a short detour down Korskirkeveiten, then turn right onto Magdalenegagen and back to Kong Oscars Gate.

    3-Kroneren is a staple of Bergen. It is our most famous hot dog stand and something of a cultural icon.

    Skostredet

    Skostredet has preserved its character from the old times. As the name suggests, this is where the shoemakers settled. For a very long time, the shoemakers were from Germany. Tanning remains and leather from the 1400s have been found here.
    Walk down Skostredet. You’ll notice this area has transformed into a popular street for restaurants and bars. You’ll pass a Roll & Rock American Diner – peak in the windows to see Elvis! – and their New York taxicab. Further down is a yellow wooden building on the left that’s a popular bakery. Next to it is a white building: this is an Italian restaurant called Villani. The chefs are all Italian, and I’ve had Italians say it’s better than the food they have back home!

    On the right, you’ll see a passageway under a yellow concrete building. This courtyard is as it was from 1702. It may still be under construction. If you can’t get into it, go to the entrance at Villani. It is also preserved from 1702. Villani’s outdoor courtyard has a cute umbrella display.

    Østre Skostredet

    The white wooden building on the street corner was destroyed by fire in 2017. They have just finished rebuilding it to look exactly as it did before. Google Maps Street View still shows the building as it was shortly after the fire.

    This was, until the mid-1980s, one of the best-preserved continuous rows of houses. Sadly, in the 1980s, there was a fire between numbers 4 and 6. The plots are still open. If the garage doors are open, head in for a unique glimpse at what Bergen likely looked like in the 1700s.

    As you head down this street, on your right you’ll pass the very popular Literaturhuset – a bookstore and cafe. The wooden buildings on the left are from the 1700s, while the brick buildings on the right were built up in the 1800s. Keep an eye out for the beautiful street art in this area.

    Domkirkegaten

    We’ve made it to the end of the bay! Yes, this is as far as the bay went. A large port structure was found here during archaeological excavations. In the Middle Ages, the street was a wooden bridge that crossed the inner marshy part of the bay. In the 1500s, a stone bridge was constructed here. The Cathedral stood by the bay. The houses in front of us are from immediately after the 1702 fire. Number 6 is the one with port structure remains, plus the remains of a shoemaker’s workshop. 200kg of slag was found here, meaning this was also a place for dumping waste.

    Now that we’ve reached the end of the bay, this walk slightly changes its tune. The next part of the city we will walk through was a centre for the city’s church, councillors and institutions. This was where everything got done. And we will start by heading to the centre of Bergen: The Political District.

    Rådstuplassen

    In the old times, the town hall and main square were in the middle of Bryggen. As the Hanseatic merchants began to dominate there, the locals got frustrated and in the 1550s a decision was made to relocate the town hall here. The Town Hall was put in councillor Christoffer Walkendorff’s house, and until the mid-19th century, it was known as the Prestige Quarter. Sadly, today many of the buildings have been torn down to make way for modern offices. The old council buildings remain. You can see them all from where you are standing. Here’s an overview of what they all are (feel free to walk around and get a close look!)

    The Old Courthouse

    The old courthouse is connected to the prison via a footbridge. It was also a police station. It was used until a new courthouse was completed in Nordnes in 1933.

    Bergen District Prison

    After the Prison Act was passed in Norway in 1857, 56 new prisons were built. The prison is three storeys high and has 57 cells on both sides. It’s believed the layout of the prison is adopted from the prison in Philadelphia. Conditions weren’t as bad as the prison in Philadelphia, but the windows in Bergen prison were too high for them to look out, and the inmates spent most of their time in their cells, where food was served.

    When Bergen had its last major fire in 1916, the prisoners were released and asked to return the next day, which they did. The Gestapo used the prison during the German occupation and built a new floor on the west wing in 1942. In 1943, the prison housed 44 prisoners in the Norwegian ward and 100 in the German ward. The prison closed down in 1990 and it’s currently under protection. Sadly not much is being done to maintain it, though it has been recently painted.

    Bergen Town Hall

    As mentioned above, the town hall was donated by Governor Christoffer Walkendorff. It was his house, which explains why it, well, looks like a house. The materials of the building are from one of Bergen’s original churches, the All-Saints Church. It was common in the 1500s for the wealthy to build elite stone houses for themselves using the remains of churches, which were abandoned after the Reformation. The monogram on the front (opposite side from where we came out) is of King Christian VII, indicating that it was renovated during his time.

    In the cellar is one of Bergen’s most notorious prisons. The cells had horrendous conditions: many accused of witchcraft were subject to torture here, and from 1676 two cells were used for those with mental illnesses. Until the new prison was completed in 1867, prisoners and the mentally ill would share cells. The ill were taken to Dollhuset, Bergen’s new mental facility in Sydnes.

    Stiftsgården

    This grand house was built for the Governor (‘Stifts’ refers to the job). Peasants riots would take place here during times of famine or heavy taxation. In 1765, the Governor was dragged from his house and mistreated by the crowd. His clothes were ruined, and his wig was torn to shreds.

    The house is also known as Hagerupgården after stiftsamtmann Edvard Hagerup (1781-1853), who used it as a government office in the winter. He is the grandfather of Edvard Grieg, whose full name is Edvard Hagerup Grieg. When Edvard Hagerup died in 1853, the Bergen stock exchange bought it to use it as a stock exchange, but it was too far from Torget. Instead, it became municipal offices.

    Bergen Cathedral

    This is one of the oldest churches in the Bergen. It’s from some time in the 1100s and was originally dedicated to St. Olav before coming the Cathedral during the Reformation. The church has been affected by many fires: remains of the original church are found in the northern wall.

    Have a look up at the tower. To the left of the large window, you’ll see a cannon ball stuck in the wall! This cannon call is a relic from a naval battle between English and Dutch fleets in Bergen harbour in 1665. The Dutch sought protection in Bergen, and during defence cannon fire rained upon the town causing damage. One of the cannon balls got stuck in the Cathedral. Every time it falls out, we stick it right back in!

    The Latin School

    The Latin School has traditions going back to 1152. It was a school where upper-class boys were sent to learn subjects related to priesthood. The curriculum was probably the same from the 12th century. They learned to read the bible in Latin and Greek, they learned to sing. One of the students was Gjeble Pederssøn, Bergen’s first protestant bishop. Another is Ludvig Holberg, the man whose statue we saw at the beginning of this walk. The school closed in 1840 and today it’s a school museum.

    Tanks School

    The school was funded by Hans Tank and his wife. They had no children, so donated their money to the construction of the school. They wanted subjects to move away from the church and towards practical subjects like commerce, language, natural sciences and physical education.

    The most famous student is Edvard Grieg. There used to be a plaque dedicated to him, but it was removed a year or two ago for unknown reasons. The school has been closed since 2014 and today the building is abandoned.

    Bergen Cathedral School

    This is one of Norway’s oldest schools, with traditions going back to the 12th century. The school originally stood close to the Bergen Fortress area. It was moved here during the Reformation in an attempt to align it closely with the new Protestant religion at the Cathedral. This was a school reserved for the elite. Today, it’s a public school.

    Opposite the school is the private Danielsen upper-secondary school. It’s new but is regarded as one of the top end schools in Bergen. It is private as it is associated with religion.

    Seminarium Fredericianum

    The Seminarium Fredericianum was founded in 1767 and is today Norway’s oldest kindergarten. When the school was founded, it was considered the first in Norway to focus on ‘practical’ subjects such as maths, physics, literary history, German and French. The purpose of the school was to professionalise trade in the city. Like many schools at the time, it was only for boys. The school sadly never became popular, and it closed in 1808.

    From 1851, it was operated by the Bergen Child Asylum Foundation as a place to raise children from poor homes or children with busy parents. The children were sponsored by wealthier citizens to attend the school. The girls learned needlework and singing, and the boys learned reading, writing, singing and physical education.

    Today the school is a private daycare. Look out the front – if you’re here on a weekday you may see prams/strollers chained to the daycare. This is very common! The hillside in the background is covered in my “Along the Hillside” walk.

    And there’s our overview of schools! Now we are going to pass some of the old institutions of Bergen.

    Danckert Krohn Foundation

    This building is one of the institutions established by the bourgeoise in Bergen to support the less fortunate. It was a common trend in the 1700s. This one was funded by Danckert Krohn, a wealthy merchant and businessman, as a facility for the elderly. Before Danckert built his institution, it was a nitrate plant. The walls from the plant are used as a fence around the garden. Today the centre is a welfare and medical centre for the elderly.
    The troll mural behind it is probably the most famous in the city. It’s by the same artist as the other troll mural we saw: M.u.M.

    St. Jørgens Hospital

    This hospital is dedicated to St. George, the patron saint of the uncurable sick. It is the oldest hospital in Norway; it was first mentioned in 1411 but was an old hospital back then. The hospital has always been primarily a leprosy hospital. Bergen had higher rates of leprosy compared to elsewhere in Northern Europe; this is due to Bergen’s high density and poor hygiene. In the 19th century, many physicians in Bergen began researching the disease. In 1873, Armeur Hansen discovered the leprosy bacillus.

    Marken

    Marken takes its name from the meadows and fields of Nonneseter Abbey, which we’ll learn about soon. This also marks (get it?) the southern boundary of Bergen old city. Today it is a commercial street that is very popular with the locals.

    Strømgaten

    We’re now in another part of the city that is built on water. On this side of the city we have the Lungegård Lake (covered in a separate self guided walk). This lake was filled in throughout the 19th and 20th centuries to make way for new industrial buildings and a commercial centre. Everything in front of us is built on the lake.

    Strømgaten means “The Stream Street”. As the name indicates, a stream used to run through here. Bergen Train Station is directly across from us.

    Bergen Library

    The library (from 1917) represents a short-lived trend where Scandinavian architects wanted to use raw stone for facades to express national character. If you look at the train station next door, you’ll see a similar style. Bergen Library has a rich collection of manuscripts and printed works from Bergen. Among its treasures are the music collection, a series of Edvard Grieg’s original sheets of music. Should be on display.

    Nonneseter Monastery

    The white stone building next to the library is the remains of the Nonneseter Monastery. The monastery was founded in the 1140s-1150s, and this is one of the only (complete) remains of a monastery in Norway. It operated as a monastery until the 1400s, when the women were supposedly chased out of town for being too promiscuous. In 1528 the monastery was given to Vincens Lunge, who converted it into a large estate. For the next few hundred years, it was a residence for some of Bergen’s most powerful families. Gradually it was built up and in the 19th century this became an industrial area. Today the remains of the monastery are a memorial for war victims.
    Now we cross the Bybanen tracks and head into the city park: Byparken. If you follow the narrow pathway between the bushes, you are walking through a special section of the park dedicated to Bergens rhododendrons. Bergen is famous as the city of rhododendrons.

    Enjoy More of Bergen

    Visit the travel guide page to see road-trips, restaurants, and top activities that you can do. 

    Bergen Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide
  • Aurland, Flåm, Lærdal, National Tourist Roads, Road-trips, Sognefjord

    Drive it Yourself: Aurlandsfjellet Tourist Road

    Drive it Yourself: Aurlandsfjellet Tourist Road

    The Aurlandsfjellet Tourist Road is a short but incredibly diverse mountain road between the villages of Lærdal and Aurland near Flåm in Western Norway.

    The road is 45km in total length, and it has earned the nickname ‘Snow Road’ because snow typically remains on the mountains all year round. 

    With most of the tourist roads in Norway, you really can do them in either direction. For Aurlandsfjellet, however, I strongly recommend you start at Lærdal and head to Aurland. The reveal of the mountains and fjords is much more dramatic. 

    Aurlandsfjellet was completed in 1967, and it used to be the main road between the two towns. Since 2000, however, the main highway E16 has gone through the new Lærdal Tunnel instead. The Lærdal Tunnel is 24.5km long, making it one of the longest tunnels in the world. You can take the tunnel, I mean it is quicker, but the Aurlandsfjellet Tourist Road is much more fun!

    Here’s my guide on where to stop for photos and what to do on the Aurlandsfjellet Tourist Road. 

    In this article...

    Download this Guide

    All of our guides can be downloaded via my online store. 

    I offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on my online store. 

    View at the Store

    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Information about facilities along the way

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the region & towns
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Facilities including supermarkets, toilets, petrol, hotels, cafes, restaurants with addresses.

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    Visit Our YouTube Channel

    Aurlandsfjellet Tourist Road

    Lærdal

    This drive begins in Lærdal, a historic trading town. Originally, the main market town used to be across the fjord in Kaupanger (see my article on Kaupanger Stave Church). However, some time in the 15th or 16th century, it moved acoss to Lærdal.

    Lærdal is on the historic postal route between Bergen and Oslo. When coming from Oslo, Lærdal was the place where the postal workers would leave their horses and embark on boats. They would dock at Gudvangen, take horses to Bolstadoyri, and then take boats to Bergen.

    In Lærdal you have to stop at the historic district. These are a collection of preserved wooden houses from the 17th to 19th centuries. The main street is Øyragata, and you can see different architectural styles from traditional building customs to Swiss and Art Nouveau, and then Classicism and Functionalism. There’s a telecommunications and postal museum in the town today.

    Another attraction is the Norwegian Wild Salmon Centre, which was opened by King Harald in 1996. It has a salmon ladder, salmon observatory, rapids with live fish, exhibitions, cafes and restaurant. 

    Lærdal Travel Guide

    Vedhaugane

    Scenic Stop

    This is a scenic overlook of the mountains. From here, you can see the Jotunheimen massif – on a clear day! A walkway and an ‘infinity’ bench curve away from the road.

    Flotane

    Scenic Stop

    This is where you feel like you are on top of the world! There’s a rest area with benches and restrooms – they are only open in the summer.

    Stegastein Viewpoint

    Scenic Stop

    This is where you feel like you are on top of the world! There’s a rest area with benches and restrooms – they are only open in the summer.

    Aurland

    We’ve made it to Aurland! That was easy. There’s a lot to see and do in Aurland, so don’t simply pass through it on your way to Flåm. In fact, Aurland is the more peaceful version of Flåm. 

    Aurland Travel Guide

    The Previous Drive

    Sognefjellet Tourist Road

    Drive through the dramatic Sognefjellet Tourist Road to reach the Sognefjord. 

    Sognefjellet Tourist Road

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Sogndal, Sognefjord, Stave Churches

    The Historic Market Town: Kaupanger Stave Church

    The Historic Market Town: Kaupanger Stave Church

    No trip to the Sognefjord is complete without a visit to Kaupanger Stave Church. It’s a tall church standing proudly alongside the fjord; in fact, it’s the largest church in Vestland county. While Kaupanger may seem like a sleepy village today, during the Viking Age it was one of the busiest settlements in Norway. Also, as the name suggests, it was an important trading place. 

    Kaupanger is on the way to the Laerdal ferry from Sogndal, so be sure to take the quick detour and visit this church! That’s exactly what I did back in September 2020. Here’s my guide to what you can see at Kaupanger Stave Church. 

    In this article...

    The Rv5 Highway

    Kaupanger Stave Church is located on the Rv5 highway. You can find my guide to the Rv5 by clicking the link below. 

    The Rv5 Highway
    Sogndal Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    The market village Kaupanger

    Kaupanger has been a settlement since at least the Viking Age, though likely before as well. Kaupang is an old Norse word for trading or marketplace, and you’ll see the name throughout Norway. The latter half of the name angr means ‘fjord’ or ‘harbour’. So, the name means ‘buy harbour’. It’s like the literal translation of Copenhagen. 

    Kaupanger likely was one of the starting points for the Viking expeditions. Additionally, it was a tingstad, meaning meeting place and administrative centre. Kaupanger is mentioned in old documents as one of the 16 densely populated centres in Norway. 

    The importance of Kaupanger declined after the Black Death (Plague) in 1349. At some point, the market moved across the fjord to Laerdal. It is not known when Laerdal took over, but it is first mentioned in 1656 and by that point, it had been operating for a while. 

    A church is established in Kaupanger

    A church in Kaupanger was first mentioned in 1308, but the church is much older than that. The present church stands on the ruins of two previous churches. These churches had load-bearing pillars placed directly into the ground. This causes the logs to rot much quicker and is probably why they replaced the churches. 

    An old burial ground existed in the area before they built a church. The oldest tombs are from the second half of the 10th century, and the graves are according to Christian customs.

    So, Kaupanger Stave Church is from around the time Christianity was sweeping across Norway. Dendrochronology has revealed that the timber used for building the church is from 1137. Kaupanger is mentioned in Sverre’s Saga in 1184 when King Sverre burned the village down as punishment for the villagers disobeying him. The stave church likely survived this attack. 

    Even though, as we’ll read, the church has undergone a huge restoration, it is one of the stave churches that is the best taken care of. 

    The stave church with the most staves

    The nave of Kaupanger stave church has 22 staves, making this the church with the largest number of staves in any one stave church. There are eight on each of the longest sides and then three on the shorter sides. 

    The staves are unlike the other staves found in this fjord region. They don’t have crosses or beams linking them together, as seen in Borgund and Urnes Stave Churches. Additionally, the portals are not equipped with dragon ornaments or other rich decorations. These types of decorations are in most stave churches. It is unknown why this church is different in that regard. 

    Like every stave church, this one has changed over the years. Before I get into the restoration work, I’ll tell you about some of the early changes to the church. In the Middle Ages, extensions of the ship out west meant more space inside. This expansion likely took place before the Black Death. Additionally, there used to be a hallway around the church. It is where (it’s thought) the Vikings left their shields before going inside. They removed the hallway in the 17th century. It’s possible that the roofing and annex were added to the church shortly after the Reformation. 

    The ‘Brutal Modernisation’ of Kaupanger Stave Church

    In 1862, Kaupanger Stave Church underwent a huge renovation. Today, historians refer to it as a ‘brutal modernisation’ – my new favourite term. Basically, what they did was cut windows into the sides of the church, placed white exterior panelling around the exterior, and added dark roof tiles to the roof. The idea was to make it look like the 19th-century churches going up all over the country in a Classicist style. The Kaupanger Manor, which stands nearby, had a similar renovation. 

    The new style of the church didn’t last too long. In 1959-1960, work was carried out to un-renovate the church and take it back to its 17th-century look. Despite the heavy changes it underwent, most of the medieval structure is preserved. Phew.

    What's Inside

    The interior is from after the Reformation in the 16th century when Norway changed from being Catholic to Lutheran. The pulpit, altarpiece and font are all from the 17th century. They are donations from the major landowner and owner of Kaupanger Manor, Gjøde Pederssøn. A memorial plaque over the choir is believed to be for him and his family. An earlier altarpiece, believed to be from 1609, is now in Jostedal Church. 

    Meanwhile, at the Bergen Museum

    When the ‘brutal modernisation’ was underway, some items from the church went to the Historic Museum in Bergen. The most known piece is an antemensale, or altar table front. It’s made of oak and depicts scenes from the lives of saints including St. Olav, St. Andreas, and St. Nicholas. It is from the second half of the 12th century. Two pillars with decorations, two dragons’ heads, and an animal head were also moved to the museum in 1862. 

    Around the Area

    The stave church and Kaupanger Manor are closely related, and the property stands next to the church. Today, you’ll see the long red barn. The main manor house, a white timber structure, is down by the fjord and difficult to see from the road. Archaeological excavations show that the farm goes back to 1800BC. What the farm originally looked like is unknown. However, it has always been one of the major farms in the area. The property came under the ownership of the Knagenhjelm Family, a Danish and Norwegian noble family. They bought the property sometime in the 1600s, and the direct descendants still own the property today. 

    Close by is the Heiberg Collection: one of the oldest museums in the country. It is from 1909 and consists of a collection of local buildings to show how people have lived and worked here from the Middle Ages until the present day. You can view their website here: http://dhs.museum.no/en

    The church today

    Today Kaupanger Stave Church is a Norwegian Cultural Heritage Site. The Society for the Preservation of Ancient Norwegian Monuments owns the property. 

    The church is open in the summer months and operates as a museum. Guided tours are available and highly recommended. 

    Up-to-date visitor information can be found here:

    https://www.stavechurch.com/kaupanger-stavkirke/

    Otherwise, the church is still the parish church and is used for service. 

    Kaupanger Stave Church is located just off the main road from Sogndal down to the ferry pier that goes over to Laerdal. 

    Resources

    The Rv5 Highway

    Kaupanger Stave Church is located on the Rv5 highway. You can find my guide to the Rv5 by clicking the link below. 

    The Rv5 Highway
    Sogndal Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide
  • Lom, Stave Churches

    At the Crossroads: Lom Stave Church

    At the Crossroads: Lom Stave Church

    If you’re on a road trip through Norway or visiting with a tour group, it is very likely you’ll pass Lom Stave Church. Built at the crossroads between east and west, this stave church is very close to Geiranger, four tourist roads (Gamle Strynefellsvegen, Trollstigen, Sognefjellet, Valdresflye) and the highway between Oslo and Trondheim. Lom Stave Church may not be the oldest but is very well preserved. It is one of my favourites. The interior is fascinating, the guides are wonderful, and Lom itself is a charming and delightful town.

    I’ve been to Lom Stave Church many times with groups. I’ve heard the guided tours many times and wandered around the church photographing it. I took my husband back in September 2020, which is when most of the photos are from. We did it after driving up from Geiranger!

    Here’s an article about what makes Lom Stave Church so special. When you visit, I recommend waiting for a guided tour. Still, it’s great to know a little about what to expect before you go. That’s what this article attempts to do – a little sneak peek at what you’ll see at Lom Stave Church.

    In this article...

    The Rv15 Highway

    Lom Stave Church is located on the Rv15 highway. You can find my guide to the Rv15 by clicking the link below. 

    The Rv15 Highway
    Lom Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    History of Lom Stave Church

    Lom Stave Church originally stood as a triple nave stave church. Inside are free-standing inner columns to support the raised section of the roof. This type of church is among the oldest of the stave churches, and Lom is one of the largest stave churches remaining in Norway. The church is likely from the end of the 12th century. when historians did a dendochronoglical dating of the timber, it’s believed the timber was felled around the year 1157.

    The church stands near an ancient road between east and west. The rectory was an important place for travellers to rest, and this went on until the late 19th century. At that point, hotels began to take over. The road was busy until the Black Death affected Norway in 1349. After the Black Death, it took centuries for Norway to recover. The church remained unchanged for almost 300 years due to a lack of human and financial resources.

    When the Reformation took place in Norway, it didn’t immediately impact Lom Stave Church. However, the new owners removed the altar, crucifix and Catholic symbols.

    From the 17th Century Onwards: Renovation, Renovation, Renovation

    When the population started to pass its pre-Black Death levels, Lom Stave Church became too small for the congregation. The first remodelling came in 1608 when the addition of the new flat ceiling and an unknown artist put nice decorations on it.

    The next renovation came in 1634 when builders added the annex to the west. Thirty years later, the church was once again too small. A part of the stave wall on each side was removed and the church got arms facing north and south. The old, external portals from the Middle Ages were removed and are now on the end walls of the cross arms. With this, Lom Stave Church became a cruciform church. The original stave church is the middle part of the church today. The builder was Werner Olsen, who renovated the famous churches at Våga and Ringebu.

    Restoration work on the church was done throughout the years, including throughout the 20th and early 21st century. Yet, the appearance of the church has not changed much since this major 17th restoration.

    Archaeological Excavations

    In 1973, archaeological excavations took place under the church. The excavations uncovered many important things. They found a total of 2,270 coins, most of them from between 1200 and 1300. Lom Stave Church is the church in Norway with the largest number of coins found under the church.

    You can see pictures of the coins here: https://www.dokpro.uio.no/umk/funn/lom.html

    They discovered post holes and traces of an older building. The older building was most likely a post-church, which is a predecessor to the stave church. Graves under the church and were buried according to Christian custom. The graves were affected by later additions of posts, but this proves that a church building has been on the site for hundreds of years.

    Another important find was a stick with rune inscriptions on it. It is from the 14th century. They are the Nordic region’s oldest letter of courtship. One end of the stick has marks in gravel and stone, meaning it comes from a walking stick. We know the owner was Håvard because he marked his name on the inscription. It says:

    “Håvard sends Gudny God’s greeting and his friendship. And now it is my full wish to ask for your hand if you do not want to be with Kolbein. Think about your marriage plans and let me know your will.”

    So sweet!

    The theory is that Håvard broke off the stick on the way to church and wrote the inscription. He gave it to Gudny as he was entering the church. She read the message but put it under a crack on the floor. It seems she didn’t reciprocate the feelings! She was sitting at the end reserved for the upper class, so she was likely ‘too good’ for poor Håvard.

    Lastly, a parchment scroll from the 13th century was found under the church. It has notes and lyrics to music written in honour of St. Thomas Beckett, the Archbishop of Canterbury.

    Interior decorations

    As we know, the church underwent major renovations in the 17th century. This is also when most of the inventory is from.

    This symbol represents a dragon or lion-like creature. It is likely an old Viking symbol to smooth the forced conversion the local pagans made to Christianity.

    The wall decorations are from 1608, but guides will be able to show you the early decorations in the church. They are a little hard to see and need a torch.

    The free-standing staves from the original construction still stand in the interior. Later, perhaps to reinforce the structure, they placed St. Andrew’s Crosses between the staves.

    The pulpit is from the 1790s.

    The church has a collection of motifs and paintings. Some of them are by Eggert Munch, a descendant of Edvard Munch. He was a clergyman’s son from Vågå, a town now known for its connection to the Munch family.

    You seen see lots of pictures of the interior and the original floor-plans here: https://kunsthistorie.com/fagwiki/Lom_stavkirke

    Men used to sit on the right, while women would sit on the left. Prisoners sat at the back with the sheriff in the caged area.

    There is a town flag in the church. It has a spoon on it, which is the symbol of Lom. Because of its position in the mountains and little rainfall, large spoons were traditionally used to spread water over the fields.

    The apse was added in 1240, when Gothic cathedrals made an apse a necessity for churches across Europe. Lepers came to the grilled window in the apse for a blessing. The decorations inside were done in 1740. You can see it in the far-left of the image below.

    Exterior decorations

    The stave church is one of the few in which the medieval dragon’s heads remain on the roof. The ones on the roof today are a copy; the originals are in the stave church exhibition. This is in the building by the parking lot. It’s the old school building.

    Much like Borgund Stave Church, Lom Stave church used to have a corridor around the outside. The theory is that this is where all the Vikings would leave their shields when they went to service. Maybe it was later used to stand under cover while waiting to go inside.

    In the cemetery are several soapstone medieval crosses. Some tombstones from the 18th century still stand in the cemetery.

    Additional exhibition

    Head to the large building in the parking lot for an additional exhibition about Lom Stave Church. There are model churches, headstones and other artefacts. In the display case you’ll see the stick with the rune inscriptions described above.

    Visiting Lom Stave Church

    The church is a must if you are in the area. It is open throughout the summer and has fantastic guides in a variety of languages. There is no regular schedule; they’ll do it when you show up.

    Opening Hours and Admission

    Up to date information is found at stavechurch.com (click here).

    The church is open from June until September. The times vary according to the time of year, but it’s typically from 11am until 5pm. Tickets cost 90 NOK per person.

    Facilities

    There is a large free parking lot outside the church. It may be full of tour buses in the summer months.

    While there are no bathrooms on site, there is a bathroom (fee) beside the wooden building. Or, head across the road to Lom centre. Visit the bakery, buy some lunch, and use their (better) bathrooms for free). You’ll find lots of outdoor shops and a supermarket here.

    Resources

    The Rv15 Highway

    Lom Stave Church is located on the Rv15 highway. You can find my guide to the Rv15 by clicking the link below. 

    The Rv15 Highway
    Lom Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide
  • Sognefjord

    On the UNESCO World Heritage List: Urnes Stave Church

    On the UNESCO World Heritage List: Urnes Stave Church

    No trip to Norway is complete without a visit to one of the 28 stave churches. Of the 28, only one of them is UNESCO World Heritage-listed: Urnes Stave Church. Nestled on the Lustrafjord, a branch of the Sognefjord, this gorgeous old church is Norway’s oldest and one of the most important. Today the church is a museum with regular guided tours. 

    I visited Urnes Stave Church back in September 2020 and got to go inside with a guided tour. I did some research on the church beforehand, and there is a lot of information online. I’ve done my best to tell a condensed story of Urnes Stave Church. This way, you will know why the church is so special before you go. I have relied on a lot of articles written by experts, and I’ll link to all those at the bottom. I’ve also done my best to cover the practical bits so your visit can go well. Still, get a guide! They are experts on the subject and included in the admission fee.

    Here’s my overview of Urnes Stave Church. 

    The Fv55 Highway

    Urnes Stave Church is located close to the Fv55, one of Norway’s tourist roads. You can find my guide to the Fv55 by clicking the link below. 

    The Fv55 Highway
    Solvorn Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    In this article...

    The many churches at Urnes

    Urnes Stave Church is not the first one to sit on the site: in fact, it is probably the fourth church on the site. The current church is from sometime around the late 12th century and is still on the same site. 

    Summary of all the churches

    • Church One: Built around the time Norway was Christianised (1030-ish). It was a ‘palisade style’ church, where the structural posts placed into the ground. It had the same orientation as the current church but was smaller.
    • Church Two: Built in the second half of the 11th century. It had posts dug into the ground, which rot. It was torn down in the mid-12th century.
    • Church Three: Based on the second church, but also different. It incorporated the raised central nave and had 16 staves. The design was an inspiration for later stave churches. This church was a mix between the architecture and art from the Viking Age and architecture found in Christian churches around Europe. This church had the exterior wooden carvings – the “Urnes style” carvings around its main portal.

    The current church

    Urnes Stave Church likely came at the end of the 12th century. On the largest portal, it says “St. Nicholaus Church”, referring to who they dedicated the church to. Above the runes is a cross, likely from the consecration of the church. 

    Why was it built here?

    The location is remote, and the church sits high up on a hill. Why was a church built here, and how has it been able to survive for so long?

    Well, as was common for stave churches, Urnes Stave Church was a private farm church. The wealthiest landowners would build themselves a church to prove how wealthy they were. That’s why there were over 1,000 stave churches in Norway at its peak. In the early years of Christianity, it was a cult for the wealthy. Stave churches showed off how important, wealthy, and smart these landowners were. 

    Church-building took place on the initiative of kinds and nobles on their farms. The church was a royal and aristocratic project until the 12th century. The church’s position in Norway started to become more powerful. Norway introduced a parish church system, which still exists today. 

    This change came from the Civil War. The important men of Western Norway were introduced to Christian culture from overseas. They knew the church was going to become a powerful part of society. These chieftains saw a strengthened church organisation as a spiritual good and measure to make Norwegian society more in step with its foreign neighbours. 

    The strategic location of the church on a promontory on the Lustrafjord signalled both power and prosperity. Large and very visible burial mounds bear witness to the fact that people have lived here for over 4,000 years. The fjord was the main thoroughfare for people who lived here. Kaupanger and Skjolden were two important harbours. The fjord was also the main passageway to Norway’s biggest city in the Middle Ages: Bergen. 

    Original owners of the church

    Gaut and his family

    Historians have researched who owned the church. One theory is that it was a man called Gaut of Ornesi. He is mentioned in Sverre’s Sagas. It was likely his father who built the church. 

    The Civil War and change in church structure happened while Gaut was raising his sons at the Ornes Farm. Gaut was a man of high status, likely a warrior with loyalty to the church and king. Gaut and his family explains why the church had a rich 12th-century inventory. 

    His sons, Jon and Munun, were masters of a warship under King Magnus Erlingsson’s fleet. Jon died in battle and his son, Arnbjørn, took over the farm. Arnbjørn was only four at the time, so he went to be raised by Nikolas Arnesson, who became the Bishop of Oslo in 1190. Through Nikolas, Arnbjørn grew up under Christianity and ended up working for the King. He didn’t spend much time at Ornes throughout his life but probably gave the church nice items. 

    Later Owners

    Who took over the church after Arnbjørn? It’s believed that the estate had already left the family when he died. A couple of generations later, around 1300, Norway’s richest and most powerful man, Baron Bjarne Erlingsson, owned the church. He was a royal advisor and lived in Bergen. In the mid-15th century, a famous nobleman who lived in Eastern Norway owned the church. It’s clear Ornes wasn’t a place to live. Maybe it was just too isolated?

    Danish-Norwegian noble families inherited the property throughout the centuries. No changes were made to the interior until the 17th century. There is hardly an object from the time the church left Gaut’s family until the 17th century, well after the Reformation. 

    Urnes Stave Church has likely survived because the location is so remote. Additionally, there were no owners on the property to fiddle with the church or dream up renovation ideas. Also, Gaut’s estate comprised of the whole hamlet, so there was never a huge congregation to attend the church and create a need for expansion. 

    Architecture

    Urnes Stave Church is a basilica-style church. The main inspiration came from European Christian churches, which are also built in the same plan. The cylindrical columns and semi-circular arches came from Romanesque stone architecture. 

    The current church has pieces from older churches. The oldest log in the church began to grow in 765. There are two beams in the church that are from 946. Parts of the church, including the north wall and the Urnes carvings, come from an earlier church and date to 1069. 

    The church has seen very few extensions, which is unique if you’ve read my articles on the other stave churches. The nave was extended southwards in the 17th century. There were other additions to the church, but they were removed later. 

    The interior of the church was very dark with no windows. Light came through a small opening by the roof. The Lutheran Reformation in 1537 brought about changes. There needed to be good lighting so the congregation could read their hymns and join in singing. The windows are from the 18th century. 

    Interior Decoration

    Romanesque Columns

    The interior of the church is very richly decorated. The wooden columns (staves) inside have unique capitals with carvings of humans, animals, mythical creatures and vegetal motifs. Some of these carvings are very abstract, while others interlace the designs of Viking tradition. One of the capitals, the centaur, is now the logo for the Preservation Society.

    The capitals take inspiration from Romanesque stone architecture, for example in Canterbury Cathedral: https://web.archive.org/web/20070316220305/http://kunsthistorie.com/galleri/index.php?album=England%2FCantebury&page=2&sortby=name&order=asc

    These capitals are well preserved considering how old they are. They are unique to Urnes Stave Church. Many attempts have been made to interpret them, but the most conclusive understanding of them is that they were inspired by international culture. 

    Church Inventory

    The church pews, pulpit and altar are from after the Reformation. During Gaut’s time, there were benches along the wall for the elderly. A bench is still preserved on the north side of the west wall. Gaut probably had a seat, too. Right in the middle of the church – just to remind everyone how powerful he was! No trace of the chair is in the middle of the church, but the reserved chair in the choir may have been his chair. It was maybe moved to the choir after the Reformation for the priest to sit. This chair is of very high craftsmanship and is one of the original furnishings from the 12th century. 

    Most of the sculptures from the church are now in the University of Bergen Museum. Those that remain are from the 12th century. There is one of Jesus on the cross. Jesus’ loincloth is painted with the expensive blue colour, which may have found its way to Urnes along the Silk Road. The figures have been in the church since the 12th century, making them some of the oldest and best-preserved Norwegian medieval artefacts. 

    The interior walls have many runic inscriptions on them. The guide will highlight them to you, as well as explain what they say. They need a torch to highlight them!

    Exterior Decoration

    The exterior decorations are evidence of how the Viking’s culture transformed and adopted Christianity. Strap-work panels were taken from one of the earlier churches and incorporated into the new structure, keeping elements of Viking tradition alive. This is most evident in the North Portal.

    Urnes style carvings

    The Famous North Portal in Urnes Style

    The north portal is from the third church to stand on the site. It may have been the original main portal on the western side. In mythology and religion, the portal is meant to let other people enter God’s house. The portals are the symbolic embodiment that represents the chaos and struggle with evil. Here, the portal depicts a struggle between a serpent and a beast. It’s believed to represent the onset of Ragnarok, a Viking belief. The earlier church likely had scenes from Norse Mythology. This is a likely reason for its premature reconstruction in the 12th century. The animals may be Níðhöggr eating the roots of Yggdrasil. Intertwined snakes and dragons represent the end of the world according to the Norse legend of Ragnarok.

    Urnes style carvings

    The carvings are known as Urnes Style. This style of carving is not unique to Urnes. It is found all over Scandinavia and especially in Sweden. The style is mostly found on runestones. It is characterised by slim and stylised animals interwoven in tight patterns. The animal heads are always in profile and they have slender eyes. The earliest Urnes style is from 1050. The “Mid-Urnes” style is found on coins issued by Harald Hardrada (1047-1066) and Olav Kyrre (1080-1090), while the “Late Urnes” style is what we see on the stave church. The Urnes style morphed into the Urnes-Romanesque form, not found on runestones but buildings. Torpo Stave Church has elements of Urnes style.  

    What remains of the original stave church?

    Unlike the other stave churches, there is still a good part of this church remaining. The ground beams, sills, corner posts, wall planks and aisle wall plates are from the medieval church. The raised central roof is also original.

    In addition to the Urnes-style portal, there are also two original wall planks in the northern wall, the corner post of the choir, the western gable of the nave, and the eastern gable of the choir. 

    Restoration & preservation

    The Fortidsminneforeningen (Society for the Preservation of Ancient Norwegian Monuments) bought the church at the end of the 19th century. The church was showing signs of its age and required preservation. When they took over, there was a different opinion of stave churches. They were unsure if they should try to restore it to its original condition or keep it the same as when they took over the church. 

    In 1902, the church was carefully renovated by famous Bergen architect Jens Zetlitz Monrad Kielland. New ideas for preserving buildings had emerged, and they preserved churches as they were. That’s why the church has bits from all periods of its life.

    Today, only repairs and conservative interventions are done to prevent decay. From 2008 to 2010 they replaced the floor and foundations after the church began to sink on the north side. 

    Excavations under the floor

    During restoration work in the 20th and 21st centuries, they discovered many coins. The floor needed a lot of replacement, and during this process, they found lots of items. In total, there were over 200 Norwegian and foreign coins. The Norwegian coins are from the Middle Ages, while most of the foreign coins are from after the plague in 1349. This indicates that there was less local currency in circulation after the plague and that trade with other countries had grown considerably.

    UNESCO World Heritage List

    In 1979 the Urnes Stave Church was added to the UNESCO World Heritage list. It is one of the first two heritage sites in Norway, together with Bryggen. 

    UNESCO points out that the church is a unique example of traditional Scandinavian wooden architecture. It represents the timber building tradition that spread throughout Western Europe during the Middle Ages. Also, it contains recycled decorative parts and building elements from another stave church built 100 years earlier. 

    Their page for the church is here: http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/58

    The church today

    Urnes Stave Church has not been in regular use since 1881. This is when the parish of Urnes was abolished. The church is only used for special occasions such as baptisms and weddings.

    The church is a museum and one of the most popular tourist sites in Norway.

    Visitor Information

    Opening hours & prices

    Find up-to-date visitor information at stavechurch.com (click here).

    The church is open from the beginning of June until the end of September. Tickets cost 100 NOK pp but come with an included guided tour.

    You can view the interior of the church with a 3D model! Click here:  https://mpembed.com/show/?m=LW3ZtZoKJQc&mpu=287&mpv=1

    Facilities

    There is a large carpark down by the indoor museum. This is also where the counter is for tickets and tours. You’ll find souvenirs and restrooms here: there isn’t a cafe.

    It’s a short walk (no stairs) up the hill to get to the church.

    Getting Here

    If doing the Sognefjellet Tourist Road, or just in the area, you can drive to Urnes from Skjolden. The road is very narrow so be careful.

    Otherwise, the most popular way to get there is to take the ferry from Solvorn. The ferry runs infrequently in the off-season and somewhat frequently during summer. It’s worth noting that the ferry has limited capacity for vehicles. You can take it without a car, but the church is a bit of a trek up the hill.

    Visit the ferry website here.

    What is in the area?

    In Solvorn you’ll find the Walaker Hotel, the oldest in Norway (website here). From Solvorn you are a short drive away from Sogndal and Kaupanger (home to a stave church). Take the ferry across the Sognefjord and you’ll be on the E16 between Bergen and Oslo in Laerdal. Laerdal is midway between Flåm and Borgund Stave Church. Laerdal is about a 3 hour drive from Bergen.

    From Skjolden, you can do the Sognefjellet Tourist Road up to Lom, and from Lom you are a short drive from Geiranger or Valdresflye.

    There’s heaps to do just around Sogndal and the Sognefjord – I’ll get around to writing it all down soon.

    The Fv55 Highway

    Urnes Stave Church is located close to the Fv55, one of Norway’s tourist roads. You can find my guide to the Fv55 by clicking the link below. 

    The Fv55 Highway
    Solvorn Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide