Emma

Hey! My name is Emma. I'm from Australia but have lived in Bergen, Norway, for the last eight years. I work as a local guide and tour leader for all over Northern Europe. The Hidden North is an online travel guide I have made to help you plan your own visit here.

  • Bergen, Stave Churches

    How to get to Fantoft Stave Church

    How to get to Fantoft Stave Church

    If you’re spending a few days in Bergen, it’s well worth getting out of the city to explore the surrounding region. A popular place to go is the Edvard Grieg Museum, or you can go to one of the mountains for hike, but one of my suggestions is to go and visit Fantoft Stave Church.

    Many people ask me during my walking tours how to get there, and I’ve even had some say that they tried to get there and couldn’t find it! I think one of the reasons about why it’s so confusing is because it can be a little confusing on GPS, and there are also two ways to get to Fantoft – one hard and one easy.

    In this article, I’ve provide an easy to follow overview of how to get to Fantoft Stave Church. I’ll also explain a little bit about the church so you have some information about what you’ll be visiting.

    In this article...

    Bergen Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    History of Fantoft Stave Church

    If you are wondering what is a stave church, I have a whole dedicated page for that. You can visit by clicking here.

    Fantoft Stave Church wasn’t built on this site. It was originally constructed around the year 1150 at Fortun in Sogn, a village on the innermost point of the Sognefjord in Western Norway. If you drive on the Sognefjellet Tourist Road, you pass the site where the church used to stand. The church stood there until 1879, when the town needed a new church. This was fairly common at the time; towns were growing due to better hygiene and health conditions, and in the 19th century it was a requirement that churches could fit a substantial percentage of the population.

    The man who owned the region Fantoft, then a farming area, Consul Fredrik Georg Gade, decided to buy the stave church and rebuild it on his property. The church was moved piece-by-piece and reconstructed on his farm. Some renovations were done to the church to make it look more like Borgund Stave Church.

    Arson

    Fantoft Stave Church stood as a popular attraction until the 6th of June 1992, when it was destroyed by arson. This was the first in a string of church burnings by members of the early Norwegian black metal scene. However, at first it was believed that the church fire was caused by lightning or an electrical fail.

    Varg Vikenes, from the band Burzum, was found guilty of burning four churches in Norway. He had been accused of also burning Fantoft, but was found not guilty for that church. The jury has since called this an error but did not overturn the decision. This is probably because a photograph of the burnt church appears on the cover of the 1993 Burzum EP called Aske, the Norwegian word for ‘ashes’.

    Reconstruction

    Fantoft was reconstructed according to what it looked like before, and since 1997 it has had a fence around it to protect the church from any future arson attacks. There are also a number of security cameras in the area.

    Church Appearance

    The church today heavily resembles Borgund Stave Church, which has been used as the model for a number of church renovations.

    One of the most characteristic features are the dragon heads, which are on the roof. These are a pagan symbol to protect the building against evil forces. At the top of the church is a rooster weathervane, which represents Catholicism and St. Peter.

    The stone cross outside the church is an original cross, believed to have been made in Norway before the first churches were built. It was moved here and the grave is fake to make the church look more authentic.

    Detailed overviews of how stave churches are constructed can be found on my stave church page.

    The Two Paths to Fantoft

    As I mentioned at the beginning, there are two paths to Fantoft: an easy one and a complicated one.

    The easy one is reached by driving or taking the Bybanen. The complicated one is reached by taking the public bus.

    Why is the complicated one, well, complicated? To get to the church from the public bus it’s a very steep path that is guaranteed to be slippery in winter. It’s also not as well-marked as the other path, so it’s easy to get lost. The bus also takes longer and requires one change.

    Getting to Fantoft: the Bybanen

    The best way to get to Fantoft Stave Church is to take the Bybanen from Bergen city centre.

    The Bybanen is the light-rail that goes between the city centre and the airport. From the first stop on the line, Byparken, it will take around 20 minutes to get to Fantoft.

    How to buy a ticket? Easy! There are ticket machines at the Byparken station. You can also download the Skyss app and use that.

    Where to get off? Easy! The stop is called ‘Fantoft’.

    Walking to Fantoft (from Bybanen)

    Okay, here’s the easiest way to walk there without getting lost.

    1. Once you get off the Bybanen, turn left
    2. You’ll see a Meny supermarket. Turn left onto the road just after the Meny (Fantoftvegen is the name)
    3. Follow Fantoftvegen. It will go up-hill slightly. You’ll pass a plant shop across the street on the right.
    4. You’ll eventually see a huge apartment block on the left that looks like a massive roof. You’re getting close! (See picture below for what the building looks like)
    5. Eventually, across the street from the apartment block is the parking for Fantoft Stave Church
    6. The road veers off to the left for a huge concrete office building. To the right of that road, you’ll see a walking path with a sign that says “Stavkirke” – that means stave church!
    7. Follow the walking path for a couple minutes. There will be a huge rock in the middle, and the path kind of (but not really) splits in two. Head to the left
    8. There is Fantoft Stave Church!

    In total, the whole walk takes less than 10 minutes and is not very steep.

    What if I take a taxi?

    Taxi’s are much easier than public transport, of course. However, Norwegian taxi’s are very expensive. Estimate it to cost at least 200 NOK for a one way trip. There is also no taxi rank near Fantoft, so you’ll have to call a taxi to come and get you.

    Visiting inside the church

    While it does look nicer outside than it does inside, I do recommend visiting the inside of Fantoft Stave Church.

    The church is open to the public throughout the summer months.

    In 2022, the church will be open from the 15th of May until the 15th of September and it costs 70 NOK per adult to visit the church.

    You can visit their website here: https://fantoftstavkirke.no/informasjon/

    It’s in Norwegian, but the important bits are clear to see.

    Final Thoughts

    Overall, there’s no need to overcomplicate it by using public buses. Fantoft is very easy to access with the light rail Bybanen. While the bus stops look closer on Google Maps, the path is steep and poorly marked. the light rail is lovely and the path is a pleasant walk. If you follow my route, you’ll be able to visit Fantoft Stave Church easily during your stay in Bergen.

    Bergen Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide
  • Å i Lofoten, Henningsvær, Kabelvåg, Lofoten Islands, National Tourist Roads, Reine, Road-trips, Svolvaer

    Drive it Yourself: The Lofoten Islands Part 1: Å to Svolvær

    Drive it Yourself: The Lofoten Islands Part 1: Å to Svolvær

    The Lofoten Islands is probably one of the most famous places in Norway. Many people making the trip here want to head to Lofoten, and rightly so. Steep mountain peaks rise out of the ocean forming the Lofoten archipelago, one of the most scenic places in Norway. For thousands of years fishermen have lived at the foot of these peaks, building now iconic rorbuer and living off the cod fishing season. This history survives today on Lofoten, and you get to explore it with this road-trip!

    This road-trip is part one of two parts and takes you from Å in the south to Svolvær, which is a little over halfway up the archipelago.

    In this article...

    Downloadable Version of This Guide

    All of our guides can be downloaded via our online store. 

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

    View on Store

    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Information about facilities along the way

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the region & towns
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Facilities including supermarkets, toilets, petrol, hotels, cafes, restaurants with addresses.

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    Visit Our YouTube Channel

    The drive: Å i Lofoten to Svolvær

    Å i Lofoten

    Not many places in the world have just one letter for a name, so Å is a special place. Å means stream in Norwegian – sometimes the village is known as Å i Lofoten because there are many places known as Å in Norway. Until the 1990s, Å was mainly a small fishing village specialising in stockfish, but since then tourism has taken over as the main economic activity.

    Unique buildings in Å have been preserved, including a cod steamer from 1850, a bakery from 1844, several fisherman’s cabins, an old trading environment and more. Several of the houses are listed.

    Å i Lofoten Travel Guide

    Moskenes

    Village

    Moskenes is both the name of the municipality we are currently in and the ferry pier that will take you to Røst or Bodø. The name of the village itself is Sørvågen. Sørvågen has a population of around 700. It has one museum, the Norwegian Telecom Museum, because this is where the first telegraph between Northern Europe and Europe was connected in 1867.

    In the village you’ll see Moskenes Church, the main church for the region. The church is from 1819 and seats 280 people. The earliest mention of a church is from 1589, but the church was not considered new then. The church was replaced in 1819 to make a more modern and stable church.

    Reine

    Photo Stop

    The photo of Reine seen above is perhaps one of the most famous photos of Norway. It generally circulates the internet when discussions of Norway’s beauty arise, and it’s often featured on travel websites. This photo requires very little effort to get! As you turn off the E10 onto the road to Reine (there’s only one), there is a parking lot on the left right before you take the bridge. Step out the car and you have this view. It’s that easy! It’s even on Google Maps as “Reine korttidsparkeringsplass” (Reine Short Term Parking Place)

    Reine

    Reine has been a trading post since 1743, and it is an important centre for the fishing industry. The tradition of the iconic fishermen’s cabins, or rorbu, dates to the 18th century. They were seasonal shelters with one end of the house on pillars onto the fjord, allowing boats to dock next to the building. In Reine, many people still make their living from the sea and have passed on marine skills and traditions for generations. The prime fishing season is from January to April, when the Norwegian Arctic cod are spawning in the waters of Lofoten.

    Today Reine is arguably the most famous village in Lofoten. The stunning scenery of steep mountain peaks contrasted with the fishing village have made the rounds on the internet, and it’s  hard to plan a trip to Norway without seeing the famous Reine shot.

    Reine Travel Guide

    Sakrisøy

    Island

    Sakrisøy is a small island located at the foot of the mountain Olstind. The island has been dominated by one family, the Gylseth family, for over 130 years. In 1889, Sven Kornelius Gylseth bought the island and built a manor house. He ran the local shop, but he was also a fish buyer. For five generations, the family has been buying cod from the fishermen and trading it with European merchants. One of the historic ships, M/V Pøyken, is on display. It shows how fishermen lived in Lofoten.

    Today the family runs a hotel, shop and restaurant in the original buildings. This is a great alternative for a place to stay if Reine is too crowded for you. The island is tiny, though. Blink and you’ll miss it!

    Hamnøy

    Island

    Hamnøy is a small island and village just next to Sakrisøy. The first buildings were constructed here as residential and business buildings. Today the fishing industry is still important to Hamnøy, but it also has some places to stay and tours. Most of the buildings are owned by the company Eliassen Rorbuer, who have managed to preserve many of the original rorbuer and business buildings. Additionally, they have a restaurant and many activities available such as boat trips, bike rental, diving, and kayaking. If you want to stay away from busy Reine, this is a great alternative.

    You can find their website here: https://rorbuer.no/

    Akkarvikodden

    Photo Stop

    Akkarvikodden is a scenic rest stop with beautiful views out to the south east.

    Flakstad Municipality

    The municipality of Flakstad is located on the northern part of the island Moskenesøya and the entire island Flakstadøya. The name comes from the Flakstad farm, which is where the Flakstad Church was built. The coat of arms shows a fastening device used on boats.  As you can probably guess, the municipality’s economy is dominated by fishing. The fishing fleet consists mostly of small boats.

    Sund

    Village/Detour

    Sund is a small fishing village with around 100 permanent residents. It is believed to be one of the oldest settlements on the Lofoten Islands. Today a large part of the village is preserved with traditional rorbuer and there’s the Sund Fiskerimuseum, which has a traditional workshop.

    In Sund there is a blacksmith who makes cormorants out of metal. These have been made in Sund for over fifty years and are a well-known souvenir to buy from Lofoten. The black cormorant is known in Norwegian folklore for living in the outermost reefs in the ocean. It stands there drying its wings before the next dive.

    The Sund Fiskerimuseum is a private museum with a collection gathered by the locals. The rorbu buildings by the museum are original – these are the original fisherman’s cabins and not ones that were built as tourist accommodation. The décor inside also shows how fishermen lived.

    Ramberg

    Village

    Ramberg is the municipal centre for Flakstad. The town has everything you’d expect for a town this size – tourist office, library, school, petrol station, restaurant, and accommodation. As with every place in Lofoten, the main industry here is fishing. The Lofoten fishing season is the dominant type of fishing, and the fleet is made up of small boats. Some farms here have sheep, while larger properties have cows.

    Ramberg is one of the few places in Lofoten where you can see the midnight sun. It is one of the few settlements on the side of Lofoten facing the sea, so it is possible to see the sun above the horizon. Most settlements are on the eastern part of the islands, facing the Norwegian mainland and therefore blocked from seeing the midnight sun. Ramberg is particularly known for its beach, which is one of the most beautiful in Lofoten.

    Flakstad Beach

    Beach

    Flakstad Beach is one of the most famous beaches in Lofoten. Here you can go surfing or take surfing classes. By the beach is the Lofoten Beach Camp. You can set up your tent here or park your mobile home. Some indoor rooms are available, too. Lofoten Beach Camp offers surf lessons and surf rentals, including the appropriate wetsuit for the arctic surf.

    Lofoten Beach Camp: https://www.lofotenbeachcamp.no/surf

    Flakstad Church

    Church

    Flakstad Church is one of the oldest churches on the Lofoten Islands. It is first mentioned in 1430 but is likely older than that. The church has a limestone baptismal font that dates to 1250-1300. This isn’t the same church today; the older medieval building has now been replaced since a storm around the year 1780 blew it down. Shortly afterwards, a new church was built on the same site using timber from Russia. One of the new chandeliers also came from Russia. Some items from the earlier church have been preserved. Flakstad Church has a characteristic onion dome on top.

    Nappskaret Photo Stop

    Photo stop

    Nappskaret is a scenic photo stop by the rock. You park your car and head up a small staircase to get some incredible views of the island.

    Vestvågøya

    Island

    After Nappskaret photo stop there is an undersea tunnel to the next island.

    Vestvågøya is a large island in the Lofoten Islands both in terms of geography and population (around 10,000 people live here). A large part of the island is relatively flat and marshy, while the outer parts of the island are mountainous. The highest point on the island is the 964m (3163ft) mountain Himmeltindan.

    Vestvågøy Municipality

    Vestvågøy is the most populous municipality in all Lofoten. The administrative centre is Leknes, which is close by to where we are right now.

    Leknes

    Town

    Leknes is one of the main towns in Lofoten. Leknes is in the geographic centre of the Lofoten islands and is the main town on the island Vestvågøya. Leknes is one of the few towns in Lofoten that is not by the sea and therefore not dependent on fishing; it is more of an administrative centre. Leknes has one of the main airports for Lofoten and it also has a cruise port for larger ships. Here is an upper secondary school, sports hall, and police station. The Lofoten Centre, one of Northern Norway’s largest shopping centres, is located here. The Lofothallen is one of the main concert venues on the Lofoten Islands.

    Leknes doesn’t have the same history as many of the other places in Lofoten; it didn’t really see growth until the 1960s. Because of this, there are few characteristic wooden buildings here. There are areas around Leknes that have finds from the Iron Age and Viking Age, though. We are heading towards one of these famous places.

    Unstad Beach

    Beach/Detour

    This small village has only around 15 people living here, but it is one of the most visited places in Lofoten. It is regarded as one of the best surf beaches on the Lofoten Islands. The area has been inhabited since before 1350; it is mentioned as being older than other farm in Borge and Valberg (Borg is well-known from Viking times). The population was at its peak in the 1930s, when around 350 people lived here.

    Today the village is centered around tourism, especially surfing. There are some beaches from the Iron Age and Middle Ages here, too. If you want to go surfing here, check out the company Unstad Arctic Surf.

    They have an excellent page all about the history of surfing in the area, which I encourage you to read: https://www.unstadarcticsurf.com/article/about

    Haukland Beach is the first beach we pass. The village is tiny – only 12 people live here all year round. Still, Haukland Beach is known as one of the most beautiful beaches in Norway.  From Haukland Beach, you can follow the old road (hiking and cycling only) to Uttakleiv Beach for even more stunning views. There are also hiking trails to the tops of the mountain peaks you can see.

    Uttakleiv is one of the most beautiful beaches on Lofoten. There aren’t many places in the world where you can see steep mountains, white sandy beaches, and farms all in one shot! Uttakleiv is a great spot to sit and watch the midnight sign. A lot of people also come here to observe the northern lights.

    The village is a protected area for its natural habitat and historic farms. The old road that used to connect Uttakleiv to the rest of Lofoten is now a hiking and cycling track, and a great thing to do it you have the time.

    Borg Viking Museum

    Museum

    The Borg Viking Museum is a reconstructed longhouse built on the site where one of the biggest Viking Age archaeological discoveries was made. The inside musuem has all the artefacts on display, and in summer you can follow the cultural heritage trail down to a beach. 

    Torvdalshalsen

    Viewpoint

    At this viewpoint you get a very clear overview of the Borg region, and you can almost imagine the Vikings arriving at the harbour and making their way to the longhouse! There are some useful information signs here, too.

    Austvågøya

    Island

    The next island we cross onto is Austvågøya. Austvågøya is the north easternmost of the large islands in Lofoten. Around 9,000 people live on Austvågøya, and many of them live in Svolvaer – the largest city in Lofoten. The island mostly consists of mountains; the largest is Higravstinden, which is 1,146m (3,760ft). One of the most famous mountains, however, is Vågakallen (942m or 3,091ft) – it towers over the picturesque village of Henningsvaer. Vågakallen is famous in troll stories about the Lofoten islands – it is the name of one of the trolls who lived here. The famous Trollfjord is also located on Austvågøya.

    Kabelvåg

    Kabelvåg is the historic capital of Lofoten and finds have been made here that date back to the Viking Age. 

    Kabelvåg Travel Guide

    Vågan Church

    Church

    This is the main church for the municipality of Vågan, and one of the most beautiful churches in Lofoten. The church is built in the cruciform style from 1898. The church seats around 1,200 people, making it the largest wooden building in Northern Norway. Because of that, it often gets the nickname Lofoten Cathedral.

    The earliest church dates to the 12th century when King Øystein Magnusson founded Vågan. It was likely a stave church and probably stood 200m (660ft) west of the present site. The church was renovated in the 1600s, but by the early 1700s it was too deteriorated and had to be rebuilt. A new church was completed in 1712, but by the late 1800s it was becoming too small due to the huge population growth in Kabelvåg. So, in 1898 a new church was built about 200m to the east of the old church.

    Svolvær

    With a population of 4,720, Svolvær is the largest city in the Lofoten Islands. The settlement is old; Svolvær was first mentioned in 1567. However, Svolvær didn’t gain prominence until the early 20th century when the motorized boats needed a modern harbour.

    The cod fisheries are still an important industry in Svolvær, but tourism is one of the main industries in the city. Svolvær is also a major transportation hub and favourite starting point for tourists. The Hurtigruten also stops here twice a day. It is possible to do sea eagle safaris, whale watching tours, and take a scenic cruise into the nearby Trollfjord. Svolvær also has a downhill skiing centre. In town, you’ll find the Lofoten War Memorial Museum a Magic Ice Bar, and numerous galleries.

    Svolvær Travel Guide

    Continue the Drive

    The Lofoten Islands Part 2: Svolvær to Harstad

    Continue the drive through the Lofoten archipelago. 

    Svolvær to Harstad

    Previous Drive

    Norway's Coastal Road Part 5: Forøy to Bodø

    Bodø is a great place to visit before visiting the Lofoten Islands. 

    Forøy to Bodø

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Bodø, Norway's Coastal Road, Road-trips, World War II

    Drive it Yourself: The Coastal Road Day 5 – Forøy to Bodø

    Drive it Yourself: The Coastal Road Day 5 – Forøy to Bodø

    The Coastal Road that runs from Brønnøysund to Bodø is one of Norway’s 18 national tourist roads. At 433km (269 mi), it is also the longest of all the tourist roads. You can’t do it in one day: some websites will recommend up to a week. In June 2021 Sean (the husband) and I did the coastal road in three days. It definitely felt quick and we couldn’t make all the detours we wanted, but we did it!

    I’ve put together a guide breaking down the coastal road. My guide includes the history & everyday life of the region, plus options for your own customisations. 

    Kystriksveien vs. Helgelandskysten

    The road has two names, and this can be pretty confusing. Kystriksveien begins in Steinkjer just outside Trondheim and provides more options for detours to the islands. 

    On the other hand, Helgelandskysten begins in Holm just south of Brønnøysund, where my guide begins. It features more-so on the one highway, known as the Fv17. 

    When driving the road, the brown tourist signs will follow the path of the Helgelandskysten national tourist road, which is on the Fv17. However, you can get a free guide online for the Kystriksveien. 

    Both roads end in Bodø. 

    Highlights of today’s section

    • This stretch of road is probably the most scenic part of the whole drive. We’ll pass steep snowy mountains, a glacier, and beautiful fjords
    • There is plenty to see on this road – Svartisen glacier, Gildeskål historic site, and Salstraumen maelstrom.

    In this article...

    Download this Guide

    All of our guides can be downloaded via our online store. 

    Download this guide to have it as a PDF ready to go for your road-trip!

    All downloadable guides come with an interactive Google Map for easier navigation. 

    View on Store

    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Information about facilities along the way

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the region & towns
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Facilities including supermarkets, toilets, petrol, hotels, cafes, restaurants with addresses.
    • Interactive Google Map for easier navigation

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    Visit Our YouTube Channel

    The drive: Forøy to Bodø

    Forøy

    Village

    Forøy is a small village with several camping grounds and cabins for rent. It’s on the Fv17, making it a convenient place to begin today’s drive!

    You may or may not be staying in this area – we found it to be the easiest place to split the drive! You’re close to Svartisen glacier and some lovely hiking trails. Otherwise, Ørnes is another popular spot to spend the night. 

    Braset Picnic Area

    Scenic Overlook

    We are at the Braset picnic area, which is one of the best places to get a photo of Svartisen glacier. Svartisen is Norway’s second largest glacier, covering around 370km2. It used to be one continuous glacier, but from the 18th century it has been split in two: we are seeing the western glacier. The part of Svartisen you can see from here is Engabreen, one of the tongues of Svartisen glacier. Engabreen ends at the lowest point of any glacier on the European mainland, at 20m (66ft) above sea level.

    In 1992, the Norwegian Water Resources and Energy Directorate established a glacier laboratory, the ‘Svartisen subglacial laboratory’ the only one of its kind in the world. It is in a tunnel under Engabreen, and the researchers can see the underside of glacier. They take samples of the old ice and can get an understanding of how glaciers move. To access the underside of the glacier, researchers use hot water to melt a cave to get into the ice. The ice contracts quickly – in about 24 hours it’ll be cover.

    Svartisen is being affected by climate change. From 1930 to 1960 Engabreen retreated by about two kilometres in length and lost about 200m of thickness. It increased again between the 1970s and 1990s. As of 2010, the glacier arm has retreated over 100m. In total, over the last 100 years Svartisen has largely diminished. This has led to the emergence of land and water that has been under ice for thousands of years. Life forms have been established here.

    Near here is a ferry that will take you right up to the glacier in the summer months. You’ll see signs shortly after leaving this parking spot. On the other side, it is possible to go regular hiking or glacial hiking with a guide. Bikes can also be rented from the ferry pier.

    For information on ferry times, click here: https://www.engenbreenskyss.no/ruteinformasjon/

    Svartisen Tunnel (7.4km)

    Tunnel

    The tunnel is from 1986; before then, there was a ferry to take you to Ørnes. At the time when it opened, it was Norway’s longest tunnel. Today, it is the fourth-longest tunnel in Nordland county. It was also the first in Norway to be made with the use of a tunnel boring machine – the tunnel doesn’t have a centre line as it is rather narrow.

    Glomfjord

    Town

    Glomfjord is an industrial village located at the end of the Glomfjorden. The village is based around the Glomfjord hydroelectric power plant. Norsk Hydro began construction for fertilizer production here in 1912, with power production beginning in 1920. The facilities were bought by the state in 1918 but leased to Hydro in 1947. Today there is a large industrial park here with many industries.

    During World War II, the area was of importance to the occupying German forces due to the production of heavy water. The sabotage operation Operation Muskedunder took place here. Twelve commandos from England, Canada and Norway came ashore and carried out a sabotage operation against Glomfjord Kraftverk’s turbine hall. After the operation, the Germans gave up the development of an aluminium plant here. Eight of the saboteurs were arrested during the operation; the other four made it over the mountains to Sweden.

    The Glomfjorden is 21km (13 mi) long and varies from 1km to 3km (0.6 – 1.8 mi) wide.

    Neverdal

    Village

    Neverdal is a small village just outside Ørnes. The village has a supermarket, café, kindergarten, and a boating association. Some of the ladies in the village have started a shop for their handicrafts, called Krambua.The Neverdal School closed in 2019 and the pupils then had to travel to school in Ørnes. There is a private school in Neverdal. There are a lot of sport activities in Neverdal. Every May, the village hosts the Neverdal tournament, where around 50 teams register and play over one weekend.

    During World War II, there was a prison camp here with around 120 prisoners, mostly Russian and Ukrainian prisoners of war. There are bunker facilities in Neverdal as well as cannon positions. The students at the old Neverdal School wrote a book about Neverdal during World War II. 

    Ørnes Travel Guide

    Ørnes was originally a homestead and farm. In 1794, the then owner Elling Pedersen, received a permit to run an inn on the site. The homestead grew into a trading place and eventually a market town. Some of the buildings from the 1800s remain, including several dwellings, fisherman’s cabins, boathouses, and barns. You can find them in the town centre: the old homestead is a museum called Ørnes handelsted. You can learn more about the museum on their website: https://nordlandsmuseet.no/ornes-handelssted

    Today Ørnes is one of the stops for Hurtigruten, and it is often named the most beautiful approach to port on the entire Hurtigruten journey. If travelling north, Ørnes is the port where they begin the Arctic circle ceremony. 

    Ørnes Travel Guide

    Reipa

    Village

    Reipå is the largest fishing harbour in Meløy municipality. Agriculture also takes place in the village. The local church, Fore Church, is from 1909 and is built in a neo-gothic, long church style. The church is a concert venue during the ‘Summer Day’ festival in Meløy.

    The village has a huge focus on being environmentally friendly, and the local school was received a Green Badge for its efforts to better the environment.

    Gildeskål Municipality

    Gildeskål Municipality is part of the Bodø region and the traditional district of Salten. The name comes from an old farm called Gildeskål, which is a famous historic site. We’ll go there on this drive.

    The municipality is primarily an agricultural and fishing municipality, and aquaculture is the largest industry.

    Ureddplassen

    Photo stop

    This is a scenic photostop and rest place with a view over the fjord towards the open sea. On a very clear day, you can see the Lofoten Wall on the horizon. Ureddplassen is also a memorial place, and there’s a monument here for those who left their lives when the submarine ‘Uredd’ hit a mine during World War II.

    You’ll find some public restrooms and a picnic bench here.

    Storvik

    Photo stop

    We are passing the rest stop Storvika. At Storvika you’ll see a stone vault bridge that connects the rest area with a sandy beach. It’s a nice spot to stop for photos.

    https://www.nasjonaleturistveger.no/en/routes/helgelandskysten?attraction=Storvika

    Gildeskål

    Town/Detour

    The churchyard consists of a medieval church of stone from the 12th century, the Gildeskål main church from 1881, the old rectory from the 18th century and two old storehouses.

    There have been people here for at least 1,000 years. The church was historically in the centre of the village. Based on the farm name and finds of objects and burial mounds from the Viking Age, it has been assumed that the church may have been a gathering place in pre-Christian times. The name Gildeskål can also refer to a meeting house or a guild hall. It is not known how old the church really is.

    The property today is maintained by the Nordland Museum. There are exhibitions about the place’s history, religious life, church customs and folk life. The white and red wooden buildings are the Gildeskål vicarage. These buildings are from around 1750.

    The Gildeskål Main Church is built in a neo-Gothic style from 1881. The old Gildeskål church is a medieval building in stone. It’s believed to be from the 12th century, though it is first mentioned in written sources from 1589.

    The cultural landscape around the churchyard is untouched by recent development. Burial mounds, old stone mounds and the old church path are examples of what has been preserved in the area. From the church hill there is an excellent view of the islands, shipping lanes, and flora in the area.  

    Visiting Gildeskål

    Bodø Municipality

    Bodø Municipality is the county capital for Nordland. Most of the population for the municipality lives around Bodø city as well as Saltstraumen, two places we’ll visit on this drive. The coat-of-arms reflects the midnight sun and is based on an old coat-of-arms from 1889.

    Saltstraumen

    Tidal Current

    Salstraumen is one of the strongest tidal currents in the world.

    I cover Saltstraumen in a separate article. 

    Godøystraumen

    Tidal Current

    Godøystraumen is a lesser known maelstrom near Saltstraumen. There is a carpark to the left of the road if you want to stop and take photos. A lot of people come here to go fishing. 

    Bodø

    We have arrived at our final destination, Bodø. You can find a comprehensive overview of Bodø on my dedicated travel guide page. 

    Bodø Travel Guide

    Continue the drive

    Lofoten Islands: Å to Svolvær

    After finishing the coastal road, why not take the ferry from Bodø to Moskenes and do the Lofoten Tourist Road?

    Lofoten Tourist Road

    Previous Route

    Norway's Coastal Road Part 4: Sandnessjøen to Forøy

    The previous day, we drove from Sandnessjøen to Forøy on Norway’s Coastal Road. 

    Sandnessjøen to Forøy

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Central Norway, Norway's Coastal Road, Road-trips, Sandnessjoen, World War II

    Drive it Yourself: The Coastal Road Day 4 – Sandnessjøen – Forøy

    Drive it Yourself: The Coastal Road Day 4 – Sandnessjøen – Forøy

    The Coastal Road that runs from Brønnøysund to Bodø is one of Norway’s 18 national tourist roads. At 433km (269 mi), it is also the longest of all the tourist roads. You can’t do it in one day: some websites will recommend up to a week. In June 2021 Sean (the husband) and I did the coastal road in three days. It definitely felt quick and we couldn’t make all the detours we wanted, but we did it!

    I’ve put together a guide breaking down the coastal road. My guide includes the history & everyday life of the region, plus options for your own customisations. 

    Kystriksveien vs. Helgelandskysten

    The road has two names, and this can be pretty confusing. Kystriksveien begins in Steinkjer just outside Trondheim and provides more options for detours to the islands. 

    On the other hand, Helgelandskysten begins in Holm just south of Brønnøysund, where my guide begins. It features more-so on the one highway, known as the Fv17. 

    When driving the road, the brown tourist signs will follow the path of the Helgelandskysten national tourist road, which is on the Fv17. However, you can get a free guide online for the Kystriksveien. 

    Both roads end in Bodø. 

    Highlights of today’s section

    • This stretch of the road is pure nature: there aren’t many towns or settlements that we pass today, but the scenery is absolutely stunning.
    • On one of the ferries, we cross the Arctic Circle! You will see a marker to indicate where the Arctic Circle is.
    • For those interested in World War II history, we pass one of the remaining coastal forts: Grønsvik

    In this article...

    Download this Guide

    All of our guides can be downloaded via our online store. 

    Download this guide to have it as a PDF ready to go for your road-trip!

    All downloadable guides come with an interactive Google Map for easier navigation. 

    View on Store

    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Information about facilities along the way

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the region & towns
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Facilities including supermarkets, toilets, petrol, hotels, cafes, restaurants with addresses.
    • Interactive Google Map for easier navigation

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    Visit Our YouTube Channel

    The drive: Sandnessjøen to Forøy

    Sandnessjøen

    Sandnessjøen is a small town on Norway’s coast. Here you’ll find a cosy town centre, some incredible murals, and even some Viking history!

    Sandnessjøen Travel Guide

    Helgeland Bridge

    Bridge

    The Helgeland Bridge is a cable-stayed bright that crosses the Leirfjorden between the mainland and the island of Alsta (where Sandnessjøen is).

    Facts:

    • Built 1989 – 1991
    • Officially opened in July 1991
    • Construction cost 200 million kr
    • Was a toll bridge until 23 June 2005
    • 1,065m (3,494ft) long
    • 12 spans – the longest is 425m (1394ft)
    • Maximum clearance below the sea is 45m (148ft)
    • Foundations extend to a depth of 31m (102ft)
    • In 2010, it was named Norway’s most beautiful bridge

    Leirfjord

    Population (2020): 2294

    Population density 5.1 inhabitants per square kilometre (13 sq/mi).

    Population has increased by 7.2% over the previous 10 years.

    The name comes from the Leirfjorden. The old name of the fjord is probably just Leiri, derived from the river Leira, which has its mouth at the end of the fjord. Leirr means ‘clay’. The Leirfjord is 20km (12 mi) long.

    The coat of arms represents forestry and agriculture in the municipality. Those are the main industries, along with fish processing.

    Levang - Nesna Ferry

    Ferry

    Levang is a small settlement. We are here to take the ferry to Nesna. 
    Timetable (PDF)

    Nesna

    Nesna is a small town with a population of 1761 spread over the municipality. The town has a long history of education, and one of the first higher education centres for teachers was here. The college, Nesna University College, is still in the town.

    Nesna Church is from 1880, though the earliest existing church is from 1589. Nesna is one of the ports of call on the Hurtigruten: the northbound ferry arrives at 5:30pm and the southbound at 11:15pm.

    Roadside Stops

    Scenic Overlooks

    The stretch of road between Nesna and Myklebustad is gorgeous. The best photo stops are on the opposite side of the road, and the best views are behind you. Trust your instinct and stop as much as possible!

    Rana Municipality

    This is the third largest municipality in Northern Norway (4,460km2 or 1,720 sq mi).

    Population 26,083 (2021) with a population density of 6.2 inhabitants per sq km (16/sq mi).

    Population has increased by 3.6% over the past 10 years.

    Most of the population lives in Mo i Rana.

    The name Rana is either Norse or Sami origin. It may come from the Norse river name Raðund, with Raðr meaning ‘fast’. The name is also associated with the Ume Sami legend of Sala Niejta (“daughter of the sun”) and Rana Niejta (“daughter of the earth”). In that case, Rana was the summer’s green ground for the reindeer husbandry. A Sami settlement near the Swedish border was called “Ranbyen”.

    The municipality is located just south of the Arctic circle, on the southern side of the Saltfjellet mountains. The main city Mo i Rana is so close to the Arctic Circle that parts of the sun are continuously over the horizon from early June to early July. There is no true polar night, though. There is often a lot of snow here in the winter, while summer days are among the warmest in Northern Norway.

    Rana municipality is rich in iron ore and has an industrial history dating back to 1799. The coat-of arms represent the forest (green) and the wealth of minerals (yellow). The Mo Industrial Park is from 1991 and was a result of the restructuring of the Norwegian Ironworks.

    Sjona Church

    Church

    On the right is Sjona Church. This church is from 1896 and was built as a small chapel. In 2003, the chapel was upgraded to full parish church status. It seats about 170 people. 

    Lurøy Municipality

    The municipality has a population of 1,890 with a density of 7.3 inhabitants per square kilometre (19/sq mi). The population has decreased by 0.5% over the last 10 years.

    Lurøy municipality is located just south of the Arctic Circle. The Lurøygården farm on the island of Lurøya is more than 200 years old and has a renaissance-style garden.

    Stokkvågen

    Village

    Stokkvågen is where you can take a ferry out to the islands that are part of Lerøy municipality. You don’t take a ferry here – keep going straight!

    Grønsvik Coastal Fort

    Historic Site

    The Grønsvik coastal fort was built by Soviet prisoners of war in the period 1942 to 1945 as part of the Atlantic Wall. The Atlantic Wall was designed to protect the German occupied territory from the British and American attacks.

    The main task of the fort was to defend the fjord areas towards Mo i Rana and Mosjøen, thus protecting the main road (now the E6) and the Nordlandsbanen (Nordland Railway) from attack.

    The main equipment at the Grønsvik fortress was four 155mm field cannons of French origin. The fort had ship cannons and could follow sea targets.

    After the war, the fort was subject to major damage. Most of the equipment was repurposed, while the cannons were melted down.

    Today it has been partly rebuilt and is now a museum. The exhibitions inside educated about World War II in this part of Norway. Outside you can follow marked trails to explore the ruins of the fort. There are information boards explaining what everything was. There is a memorial to the 77 Soviet and 65 Polish prisoners of war who were forced to participate in the construction of the fort.

    The indoor exhibitions are open in summer, while the surrounding area is open and free to walk around throughout the year.

    Kleivhalsen

    Scenic Overlook

    Park your car here and walk up the hill to get some amazing photos.

    Kilborghavn - Jektvik

    Ferry

    The ferry journey takes a little over an hour. Normally the staff onboard will announce when you cross the Arctic Circle, and you’ll see the globe by the water!


    Timetable (PDF)

    Ågskardet - Forøy

    Ferry

    It’s time for the last ferry of the day! This ferry takes you to Forøy, where the day’s tour ends. 

    We spent the night at a nearby campground before continuing north to our final destination, Bodø. 


    Timetable (PDF)

    Continue the drive

    Norway's Coastal Road Part 5: Forøy to Bodø

    Be sure to take the final stretch of the Coastal Road, which goes all the way to Bodø.

    Forøy to Bodø

    Previous Route

    Norway's Coastal Road Part 3: Brønnøysund - Sandnessjøen

    The previous day, we drove from Brønnøysund to Sandnessjøen on the second part of the coastal road. 

    Brønnøysund to Sandnessjøen

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Bodø, Hurtigruten, Walking Guides

    From World War II to Street Art: Bodø Self-Guided Walking Tour

    From World War II to Street Art: Bodø Self-Guided Walking Tour

    Located just above the Arctic circle, Bodø is a city of transformation. Built up in the late 19th century, this important fishing harbour was completely ravaged from bombing in the early days of the German occupation during World War II. Following the war, the city was rebuilt into a functionalist style. While not the most attractive architectural style by modern standards, Bodø is a fascinating city to walk around. The last ten years have brought huge growth and new modern structures to this mini metropolis, and Bodø has been named the European Capital of Culture for 2024. Explore the fascinating city of Bodø!

    In this article...

    Norway's Coastal Road

    Bodø is located at the end of the Fv17, which is Norway’s Coastal Road. You can find my guide to the Fv17 by clicking the link below. 

    The Fv17 Highway
    Bodø Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Downloadable Version of This Guide

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided walks on our online store. 

    View at the Store

    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Information about facilities along the way

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the region & towns
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Facilities including supermarkets, toilets, petrol, hotels, cafes, restaurants with addresses.
    • Link to a map you can load into your phone

    Bodø Self-Guided Walk

    Hurtigruten Terminal

    This tour begins at the Hurtigruten terminal, which is where many people arrive in the afternoon to explore Bodø for a few hours with the Hurtigruten.

    The Hurtigruten is a coastal ferry that goes from Bergen to Kirkenes and back again, stopping in 32 ports along the way.

    The next terminal you’ll pass is where the car ferries go to Røst to Værøy as well as Moskenes in Lofoten. The ferry to Moskenes takes around 2.5 hours.

    Bodø Station

    Bodø Station is the terminus of the Nordland Line that was completed in 1961. The station is served by day and night trains to Trondheim (728km away), plus commuter trains to Rognan and Fauske. The trip to Trondheim takes 9 hours and 50 minutes and it is not electrified.

    The decision to build the railway to Bodø was made in 1923, but it was not completed until the 1960s due to lack of funds and World War II. The railway is also used by freight traffic.

    Kirkens Bymisjon

    On your left is Kirkens Bymisjon (Church City Mission), an organisation that conducts social work in Norway on a Christian humanistic basis. They focus on substance abuse, mental health, child welfare, elderly care, prostitution measures and church activities. The building on the left is where you can get assistance from the church, plus they also sell items second hand to raise funds for their services. It’s a great place if you love vintage shopping, or just want some unique souvenirs from Norway.

    Orestad Park

    The park is named after Ivar Orestad, a violinist who lived here.

    In 2021, it was renamed to Sissel Bjugns Park. Sissel Bjugn (1947 – 2011) was a Norwegian poet and children’s writer who lived in Bodø for a large part of her adult life (she was originally born in Bardu)

    After School

    Bodø is famous for its street art. In 2015, the first UpNorth festival was held here, where international and national artists were given the freedom to paint on some of Bodø’s walls.

    This artwork is titled After School and is by the Russian artist Rustam QBic. His paintings are known for being saturated with bright colours and a playful sense of the absurd.

    We’ll see a couple works on this tour, but if you are interested in seeing more Bodø tourist board has made a map of all the big artworks. You can view it here

    Bodø Town Hall

    Bodø Town Hall is the main municipal building in Bodø with the municipality’s political and administrative headquarters. The building was built after the war, and it was designed by Gudolf Blakstad and Herman Munthe-Kaas, who gave it a functionalist style.

    A new extension has been built at the town hall. It is designed by the Danish studio ALL (Atelier Lorentzen Langkilde). The façade geometry is designed to capture the changing light conditions in the Arctic. The building links together the older buildings from the 1960s, which will still be in use.

    About the extension: https://www.archdaily.com/931586/bodo-town-hall-atelier-lorentzen-langkilde

    Rådhusparken

    A brand-new park has been constructed across from the town hall. There’s Rådhusparken, the one we see, and directly behind it is Solparken. These are lovely open spaces with fun games for kids and nice places to sit as well.

    In the park you’ll find a monolith with a sign next to it. The monolith is from the Iron Age and was originally located close to the airport. There were at least five monoliths and several burials on the site, but it was moved here in 1952 to be closer to the museum.

    Bodø Cathedral

    The original church was built in 1888. It was yellow, wooden, and neo-Gothic. The church was destroyed during the bombing on 27 May 1940. In 1946, an architectural competition was held for the design of the new church. The new church was finished in 1956.

    The stained-glass window is 40 feet high, and it has a beautiful 5,000 pipe German-style organ.

    The church is built of concrete and has a basilica design. There is an external sculpture depicting Petter Dass. The church seats 890 people.

    The church has a 36m (118ft) tall free-standing clock tower with three bells. There is a memorial to those who died in World War II.

    Outside the city is Bodin Church, a stone church built in 1240.

    Nordlandsmuseet

    Recounting the short history of Bodø, this gem of a museum has an entertaining and informative 25-minute film with English subtitles on the town’s development. Highlights include a mock-up of the fishermans rorbuer, a section on Sami culture complete with sod hut and ritual drum, regalia related to the towns fishing heritage and a small hoard of 9th century Viking treasure that was discovered in 1919.

    The building is from 1903 and housed the city’s fisheries museum.

    Information on the museum can be found here: https://nordlandsmuseet.no/en/citymuseum

    Svenskebyen

    Due to a lack of housing from the bombing of World War II, the Swedish government helped build 107 apartments in the winter of 1941. These houses were tightly built together just outside of town. The area today is called The Swedish Town.

    A Kiss Between Cultures

    The motif shows two children playing together. One child is of Sami origin and the other comes from the indigenous population in the Andes. The artwork represents two different indigenous groups. The latter is part of the artwork and symbolises a bridge between the cultures.

    Note – unfortunately from 2022 the artwork has been removed to make way for new building construction. 

    Bodø Library & Concert Hall

    These buildings are a welcome modern addition to the city’s post-war architecture. Plans for a library began in 2009, when an international competition was held to design the library. The plan was to build a new, modern cultural quarter in Bodø. The building is designed to be open towards the city and the harbour, and the white marble is to capture the changing light of the Arctic.

    The interior is bright and airy, and it’s great to sit in the reading room on the first floor and admire the views. The concert hall is not always open to the public, but it is like the library inside.

    Bodø Harbour

    At the ferry pier you can see some lovely old fishing boats, and here you get a true feel for Bodø’s past. This is where you can take tours by boat to Saltstraumen.

    Old Customs House

    The customs house is one of the few buildings to survive the war. It was built in 1912 and was designed with art nouveau influences by Søren Wiese-Opsahl.

    Clarion Hotel Grand Bodø

    This hotel has items and images inside from before World War II. The hotel is a preserved building in post-war architecture. The history of the hotel goes back to 1850, when a hotel was established on this site. The hotel became known for social groups and businesses. The well-known writer Knut Hamsun is among the hotel’s most famous guests; he wrote the book ‘Segelfoss by’ in one of its rooms.

    The Main Square

    This is the main shopping square of Bodø. Here’ll you’ll find some fun places to eat and some great shops as well. You can find restaurant and shopping suggestions on the Bodø travel guide page.

    Norway's Coastal Road

    Bodø is located at the end of the Fv17, which is Norway’s Coastal Road. You can find my guide to the Fv17 by clicking the link below. 

    The Fv17 Highway
    Bodø Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Norway's Coastal Ferry

    Kirkenes is a port of call of Norway’s coastal ferry. Find my guide for the coastal ferry by clicking the link below. 

    Norway's Coastal Ferry
  • Hurtigruten, Sandnessjoen, Walking Guides

    Sandnessjøen Self-Guided Walking Tour

    Sandnessjøen Self-Guided Walk

    Sandnessjøen is a small town located on the Helgeland coast. While many may use Sandnessjøen as a stop on a longer and more scenic road-trip, there are some lovely points of interests to see here. The town was a Viking seat, and the recreated longhouse Torolvstein will tell you all about Sandnessjøen’s most famous Viking. Additionally, the town is seeing growth and renewed interest thanks to the oil industry. So, spend the night in Sandnessjøen and see the town’s highlights on this self-guided walking tour!

    In this article...

    Norway's Coastal Road

    Bodø is located at the end of the Fv17, which is Norway’s Coastal Road. You can find my guide to the Fv17 by clicking the link below. 

    The Fv17 Highway
    Sandnessjøen Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Norway's Coastal Ferry

    Kirkenes is a port of call of Norway’s coastal ferry. Find my guide for the coastal ferry by clicking the link below. 

    Norway's Coastal Ferry

    Sandnessjøen Self-Guided Walk

    Kulturbadet

    The Kulturbadet is the building in Sandnessjøen that has a swimming pool, cinema, library, theatre and concert hall, and meeting rooms. It is a new building from 2016. When the building was being planned, a competition was held for who would be the architect. The L2 Arkitektur firm in Oslo won with their draft called “Sky Blue”.

    Street Art: Future Eyes

    Jort Agoch, Leticia Cascone Ruiz (2016)

    The town has recently been decorated with murals to boost tourism. The murals reflect life in Sandnessjøen. It was designed to liven up the grey buildings, and the artwork is inspired by the local children.

    Torolv Kveldulvsons gate

    The street is named after the famous Viking Torolv Kveldulvsson, who lived in Sandnes. He is known as the first exporter of stockfish from the north. Egil’s saga tells that in the time around 875 “he sent people north to the town of Vagar in Hålogaland (now Vågan) on cod fishing and also went with fish to England”.

    This street has the main shopping mall, Amfi, plus some restaurants and businesses.

    Petter Dass Statue

    Petter Dass (1647 – 1707) was a Lutheran priest and the foremost Norwegian poet of his generation, writing Baroque hymns and poetry. He was appointed the parish priest at Alstahaug Church in 1689. He wrote texts and hymns, but many weren’t published until after his death.

    His most famous work is a topographical description of Northern Norway called “The Trumpet of Nordland”. Some of his psalms are still in use.

    After Petter Dass died, many Norwegian fishing vessels of Northern Norway carried a black cloth on their sail for 100 years as a sign of mourning. He is still a popular subject of folklore in Nordland. For example, there is a legend of how he fooled the devil to carry him to Copenhagen to preach for the king.

    There is only one known portrait of him, but many doubt if it was him. Still, it was used as the basis for this sculpture.

    The Petter Dass Museum is located a short drive from Sandnessjøen.

    The Seven Sisters

    This statue on the side of an otherwise very dull office building symbolises what Sandnessjøen is most famous for: The Seven Sisters. This is a mountain chain with seven peaks, and it’s based off a story of the seven troll sisters who were chased by a very eager male troll. They all turned to stone in the sun, forming the mountains. You will be able to see the Seven Sisters during this walk, but the best views are when you drive out of the town.

    Optional Detour: Sandnessjøen Church

    The earliest existing historical record of the church goes back to the year 1240, when the church was mentioned in a saga. The original church wa slocated about 2km (1.2 mi) southeast of the present church site. In 1644, the old church was torn down and a new church was built on the same site.

    In 1882 the church was torn down and replaced. Some of the materials were used in the new construction.

    TV Tower

    This is the TV-tower in Sandnessjøen. It is often decorated with lights on special occasions, such as new year’s eve and the main festival in Sandnessjøen, Havnafestivalen.

    Fortress & Bunker Area

    There is very little information about the fortress area. It was home to the Artillery Group Sandnessjøen. There were 7 Heeres Küsten Batteries and 3 Marine Artillery Batteries in the group.

    The battery was set up in 1940.

    There are information signs on all the main sights that you can read.

    Torolvstein

    During the Viking Age, this was one of Northern Norway’s largest and most powerful chieftain seats. At this building you can learn about Norwegian Viking History with the key figures from Sandnessjøen, Torolv Kveldulvson and Sigrid of Sandnes. The area around Sandes was one of the best documented areas from the Viking Age.

    The long house was very common in Norway during the Iron Age. They were long houses built to accommodate both housing and livestock. Longhouses throughout the Nordic region are made up of a log system.

    The building is located on almost the same site as the old chieftain seat from 1,000 years ago.

    Enjoy More of Sandnessjøen

    Visit the travel guide page to see road-trips, restaurants, and top activities that you can do. 

    Norway's Coastal Road

    Bodø is located at the end of the Fv17, which is Norway’s Coastal Road. You can find my guide to the Fv17 by clicking the link below. 

    The Fv17 Highway
    Sandnessjøen Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Norway's Coastal Ferry

    Kirkenes is a port of call of Norway’s coastal ferry. Find my guide for the coastal ferry by clicking the link below. 

    Norway's Coastal Ferry
  • Brønnøysund, Central Norway, Road-trips, Sandnessjoen

    Drive it Yourself: The Coastal Road Day 3 – Brønnøysund – Sandnessjøen

    Drive it Yourself: The Coastal Road Day 3 – Brønnøysund – Sandnessjøen

    The Coastal Road that runs from Brønnøysund to Bodø is one of Norway’s 18 national tourist roads. At 433km (269 mi), it is also the longest of all the tourist roads. You can’t do it in one day: some websites will recommend up to a week. In June 2021 Sean (the husband) and I did the coastal road in three days. It definitely felt quick and we couldn’t make all the detours we wanted, but we did it!

    I’ve put together a guide breaking down the coastal road. My guide includes the history & everyday life of the region, plus options for your own customisations.

     

    Kystriksveien vs. Helgelandskysten

    The road has two names, and this can be pretty confusing. Kystriksveien begins in Steinkjer just outside Trondheim and provides more options for detours to the islands.

    On the other hand, Helgelandskysten begins in Holm just south of Brønnøysund, where my guide begins. It features more-so on the one highway, known as the Fv17.

    When driving the road, the brown tourist signs will follow the path of the Helgelandskysten national tourist road, which is on the Fv17. However, you can get a free guide online for the Kystriksveien.

    Both roads end in Bodø.

     

    Highlights of today’s section

    • You will get spectacular views of the Seven Sisters for most of the day
    • You can take a detour to the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Vega Islands
    • Pass historic Tjøtta, known for its old church and connection to Petter Dass.
    • The drive is not long, so you have the afternoon to explore Sandnessjøen

    In this article...

    Download this Guide

    Download this guide to have it as a PDF ready to go for your road-trip!

    All downloadable guides come with an interactive Google Map for easier navigation. 

    View on Store

    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Information about facilities along the way

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the region & towns
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Facilities including supermarkets, toilets, petrol, hotels, cafes, restaurants with addresses.
    • Interactive Google Map for easier navigation

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    Visit Our YouTube Channel

    The drive: Brønnøysund to Sandnessjøen

    Brønnøysund

    Located on the coast and surrounded by islands, Brønnøysund is a fitting place to begin your coastal road-trip. The town (pop. 5,000) has some wonderful hiking trails in the nearby area. You can visit a fish farm at the Norsk Havbruksenter or try some locally grown herbs and wine at Hildurs Urterarium.

    My travel guide for Brønnøysund can be found via the link below.

    Brønnøysund Travel Guide

    Vega Islands

    UNESCO Site/Detour

    The Vega Islands are a collection of small islands on the UNESCO World Heritage list. They are protected due to the unique relationship between the inhabitants and the eider ducks. The collection of eider down has taken place here for thousands of years. If you are visiting in summer, Vega is a great place to visit. They have a visitor centre that does tours in the summer. The ferries don’t run frequently, so you will need to make a whole day out of visiting Vega.

    The ferry to Vega leaves from the same spot where we’ll be taking the ferry to Andalsvågen.


    Click here for more information about the Vega Islands

    Horn - Åndalsvågen

    Ferry

    There are many ferries when doing the coastal road, so they are impossible to ignore. While it may seem daunting at first to take a ferry in Norway, the process is very easy and you’ll be a master of it by the time your drive is over!

    You drive onboard and your e-tag is scanned by a staff member. No need to do anything. The ferry journey takes 20 minutes.


    Ferry overview

    Vevelstad

    Vevelstad is part of the traditional Helgeland region. The municipality gets its name from the old Vevelstad Church. Rock carvings indicate that people have been here since the Stone Age. The main industries are agriculture, fish, fish processing and timber. Agriculture is based on cattle and sheep farming. There are no towns in the municipality, just scattered settlements. The population has declined by 60% ever since the municipality was established in 1916.

    Leknes

    Village

    If you have a bit of time to wait between ferries, there are some fun things to do in Vevelstad:

    • Visit Vevelstad Church: The church is from 1796 and seats about 250 people. When the church was renovated in 1871, many of the original items were sold or disappeared. One of the old bells can be found on a farm in Lofoten!
    • Vevelstad Museum: Behind the church is an open-air museum about the old farming traditions of Vevelstad. Click here to visit their website.
    • Handelstedet Forvik: The old trading place (Handelstedet) has been here for over 200 years, and it is one of Northern Norway’s oldest trading places. There is a lovely café and restaurant inside, and there are even five rooms available for rent. Click here to visit their website. 

    Forvik - Tjøtta

    Ferry

    Welcome to ferry number two! You have to time this one well with the first ferry. We didn’t, and we got stuck in Forvik for almost two hours. There’s no other way out of Forvik, and once you’ve visited everything mentioned above, you’re kinda stuck.

    This ferry takes just under an hour, so it’s a great opportunity to stretch your legs, have a coffee, and admire the views of the Seven Sisters.  Be sure to go and spot them! This is a great way to get a photo of the mountain peaks.


    Ferry overview

    Alstahaug

    Alstahaug is perhaps best known for the mountain chain The Seven Sisters, which is reflected in the coat of arms. The name comes from a farm, close to where the medieval Alstahaug Church is located. There has been a continuous settlement here since the Iron Age, and Alstahaug was a known place during the Viking Age.

    Alstahuag has long traditions in agriculture and aquaculture. There is also some oil industry here.

    Tjøtta

    Village

    As soon as you get off the ferry, you’ll be in the village of Tjøtta. This small community has a ton of history: Tjøtta is mentioned in the Heimskringla (Norse sagas) many times. It was the home of one of the most famous chieftains, Harek of Tjøtta. He was one of the leaders of the peasant army which killed Olav Haraldsson (later St. Olav). There is archaeological evidence of a settlement back to the Iron Age, and Tjøtta farm is the largest medieval farm in Northern Norway.

    Tjøtta International War Cemetery

    Historic Site

    The Tjøtta War Cemetery was established in 1970 as a place to bury victims of a huge tragedy during World War II. The Rigel sunk off the coast of Tjøtta on 27 November 1944. This tragedy killed more than 2,500 Soviet, Polish and Serbian prisoners of war, Norwegian prisoners and German deserters, German soldiers and Norwegian crew members. A total of 8,000 victims are buried here. It was Norway’s largest ship tragedy. The graves are anonymous, but there is a memorial stone here.

    The Seven Sisters

    Mountain Range

    The highlight of this drive is the Seven Sisters mountain, which you will see for most of the drive. But after Tjøtta, you’ll start getting some fantastic views of the mountains.

    The name ‘Seven Sisters’ (Syv søstre) comes from a famous troll legend. The seven sisters were troll sisters who were kept under the strict control of their father, Suliskongen. One night he fell into a deep sleep, and the troll sisters decided to sneak out – as young girls do!

    However, lying in wait was the Vågekallen, a big and powerful troll who was eager for a wife. He began to chase them, hoping to capture one (or more) of them. Eventually other trolls joined the chase, attempting to save the sisters.

    All of them had forgotten that when the sun comes out, they turn to stone. When the morning came, the troll sisters and their pursuers were petrified. They became the mountains that today form the Helgeland Coast. Many of the mountains you’ll pass on this trip are mentioned in this (or a similar) story.

    Hiking the Seven Sisters

    You can hike all the mountains in one day, but it’s only recommended for experienced hikers. The Norwegian Trekking Association estimates that it’ll take 13 hours to do.

    The mountains can be hiked individually, and Stortinden (910m) is considered the easiest one to hike.

    Want to get a good photo? This area is not the best spot. The best thing to do is get on a ferry and head out to an island off the coast of Sandnessjøen. I’ll show you how to do that in this guide 🙂

    Alstahaug Church & the Petter Dass Museum

    Historic Site

    The next stop is Alstahaug Church, perhaps one of the most famous churches in the region. It was built in the 12th or 13th century, and is considered one of the finest medieval churches in Northern Norway.

    Next to the church is a museum dedicated to Petter Dass. This is probably a museum more for Norwegians than visitors, because Petter Dass is well-known in Norway. He was a Lutheran priest and is considered to be the foremost Norwegian poet of his generation. He wrote baroque hymns and poetry about the Helgeland coast, which is famous today. The museum chronicles his life and work.

    Even if you aren’t interested in learning about Petter Dass, I recommend stopping to admire the beautiful Alstahaug Church, where he worked.

    Søvik - Herøy

    Ferry

    Another ferry! This ferry pier has many different ferries coming in and out, so make sure you are taking the one to Herøy – it’s often the biggest line. The ferry takes about 25 minutes and has some lovely views out to the Seven Sisters.


    Timetable (PDF)

    Herøy Municipality

    Welcome to the islands! You are in the municipality of Herøy, and there are about 1,700 islands here. The population here is 1,777. Likely due to the industrial activity here, the population has increased by 9.8% over the last 10 years.

    Herøy has a population of 1,777.

    The main industries are fishing, fish farming, and processing activities associated with this. Other important industries are agriculture (mostly sheep), transportation, services industries and tourism. Tourism is especially rising in Herøy, mostly due to its proximity to the Coastal Road. Also, the growth in popularity of the Vega Islands, which are close by, has contributed to Herøy’s growth. Herøy also has the best view out to the Seven Sisters, so a lot of people come here just to get a good photo.

    There is only one school here, and it is for primary and junior high. All upper secondary school students must commute to Sandnessjøen to attend school.

    There are many outdoor activities in Herøy, and the area has even been featured on national television to promote its kayaking. The roads here are also ideal for cyclists. There are many great walks on the mountains.

    There has been a lot of discussion about a bridge to the mainland – the two municipalities on the islands (Herøy and Dønna) are the largest in Norway without a connection to the mainland. Bridges and tunnels have been discussed many times, and it will likely be an underwater tunnel that’s built. However, it will take around 30 years to see it completed.

     

    Herøy Church

    Church

    The oldest church on the island is Herøy Church, which is from the 12th century. It’s located on the main road very close to the Herøy pier. The building has undergone serious changes since its construction, and now most of the church is built in stone.

    Dønna Municipality

    Dønna and Herøy are connected via the Åkviksundet Bridge, making Dønna a separate island. Dønna is made up of a large archipelago consisting of islands, islets and reefs. The population has decreased here by 4.2% over the last 10 years. The name comes from the farm Dønnes, and it means ‘rumble’ or ‘roar’ (probably referring to the swell of the waves). Much of the industry here focuses on fishing, aquaculture, and fish processing.

    The area is very historic, especially around Dønnes Farm. There are burial grounds from the Iron Age and Roman Iron Age. Northern Europe’s largest phallus is also located here, which is a fun little fact! It’s to honour the Norse gods Njord and Nerthus and is believed to be 1,600 years old. There are also burial mounds from the Viking Age.

    Many known people are from Dønna, including Gjeble Pederssøn (1490-1557), the first Lutheran Bishop in Norway and Petter Dass, whose museum we visited earlier.

    Dønna - Sandnessjøen

    Ferry

    Our last ferry of the day takes us to Sandnessjøen city centre, where this driving guide ends!

    You can view all my information about Sandnessjøen below.


    Timetable (PDF)

    Sandnessjøen

    You have made it to Sandnessjøen! This is a great place to spend the night as there are decent accommodation options, places to walk and things to see.

    You can find all my information for Sandnessjøen on my travel guide page. 

    Sandnesjøen Travel Guide

    Continue the drive

    Norway's Coastal Road Part 4: Sandnessjøen to Forøy

    See the next part of Norway’s Coastal Road.

    Sandnessjøen to Forøy

    Previous Route

    Norway's Coastal Road Part 2: Namsos to Brønnøysund

    Explore the rugged central Norwegian coast!

    Trondheim to Namsos

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Oslo, Oslo & the East, Walking Guides

    Exploring Oslo’s Old City Christiania: Self-Guided Walking Tour

    Self-Guided Walk: Christiania in Oslo

    Christiania was the name of Oslo between 1624 and 1925. The name came from King Christian IV, who made the big decision after a fire in 1622 to move the whole city from its original location to be close to the Akershus Fortress. He laid the city out in a grid pattern (the area is called Kvadraturen, which refers to the grid layout), and designated certain blocks for certain purposes. And so, Christiania was built.

    Many of the original buildings are now gone, but some still stand, albeit many are heavily renovated. Still, Christiania is a fascinating place to walk through and learn about how the old city of Oslo functioned.

    On this self-guided walk, I’ll show you the buildings still standing, the story behind them, and try to give you an idea of what Christiania used to be.

    A Brief History of Christiania

    Christiania was established as a replacement of the old city of Oslo in 1624, after a huge fire had swept through the original city. Oslo stood a few kilometres to the east, but King Christian IV wanted the city to be closer to the Akershus Fortress. The ruins of the old city still stand at the suburb called ‘Gamle Oslo’.

    The streets were built very wide, and the city was surrounded by ramparts to better protect itself. Additionally, all the houses were to be built in brick as a modern fire measure. However, most people were still too poor to build in brick, so wooden houses or half timber houses were constructed. The plots of land within Christiania were distributed to the citizens free of charge, but were allocated according to wealth and status.

    The walled city of Christiania didn’t last long: after a fire in the 1680s the ramparts were no longer used and the city began to see unregulated expansion outside the walls. The city’s population rose steeply after the union with Denmark ended, and more modern buildings were built in Christiania to show off the city as a capital, including the palace, parliament and university.

    By the early 20th century, the area of the original Christiania was a quiet business activity and no longer the centre of the city. In 1925, the city got its original name of Oslo back. Today, Christiania is distinctive on all maps of Oslo thanks to its grid pattern. It’s known as ‘Kvadraturen’ on maps, which refers to the grid pattern.

    Oslo Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    In this article...

    Downloadable Version of This Guide

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided walks on our online store. 

    View at the Store

    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Information about facilities along the way

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the region & towns
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Facilities including supermarkets, toilets, petrol, hotels, cafes, restaurants with addresses.

    The online guide is a summarised version of the downloadable guide. Some points of interest are only included in the downloadable guide. 

    Christiania Self-Guided Walk

    Christiania Torv

    This is the centre of the old town of Christiania. When Christiania was completed, the Holy Trinity Church stood on this site. It was the first public building to be completed in the old town, and by it would’ve been the market. The market was used on Wednesdays and Saturdays, and farmers would gather to sell their goods. The annual winter market in the first few days of February was also held here. Farmers came from all over Eastern Norway with butter, hides and venison. In the square was also the gauntlet and a ‘kag’ – a cane with a neck iron. Here the criminals were whipped and shamed.

    The Holy Trinity Church used to stand here. It was a Renaissance building with four clocks and a richly decorated interior. Sadly, the church wasn’t even completed before it was struck by lightning in 1686. The bells of the church melted, and the nave was ignited. The fire destroyed about a third of Christiania, the northernmost part – which was the poorest area and mostly wooden houses – being the worst affected.

    The church wasn’t destroyed during the fire, but it was decided to tear it down anyway because Akershus Fortress wanted an open field in the area and the church was blocking the firing range of the fortress. The Holy Trinity Church was demolished, and the site was left unused. What survived of the church was moved to the Oslo Cathedral when it was completed.

    Christian IV's Glove

    The statue in the middle of the square is called Christian IV’s glove and is by Wenche Gulbransen. It’s supposed to represent Christian’s decision to move the city here.

    Anatomigården

    This is one of the few remaining half-timbered houses in Christiania. The exact age of the property is unknown, but it is believed to be from the early 1700s. The name Anatomigården refers to the fact that the Faculty of Medicine had its anatomical hall here.

    Rådmannsgården

    This is one of the oldest buildings in Oslo and the best-preserved building in Christiania. It was likely built around 1626 in a Dutch/Danish Renaissance style. It used to be much larger but has undergone many changes over the years. The building was built for councillor (rådmann in Norwegian) Lauritz Hansen. Today there is a restaurant inside.

    Gamle Rådhus

    This is Christiania’s first town hall (Rådhus in Norwegian). The building dates to 1641, though it has undergone many changes over the years. For example, it used to have a tower, but it was torn down in the 1700s. The original Renaissance gables are also gone.

    In Christiania, the town hall functioned as both a meeting place for councillors but also a gathering place for the towns bourgeoise. Kristiania was ruled by two mayors and 12 councillors appointed by the sheriff of Akershus Fortress. In the cellars were a detention room and a prison for convicted criminals.

    The building was in bad condition throughout the 18th and 19th centuries, and over those years it was a Masonic Lodge. In 1983, it became a restaurant called “Det Gamle Raadhus”.

    Revierstredet

    The name comes from Revieret, a canal that was excavated in the area in the 17th century.

    The dark brown building that you’ll follow along Revierstredet and then later onto Kongens gate is the oldest building you’ll see on this street. It was built in 1638 for a town bailiff and eventually became an orphanage. While it was an orphanage, 50 kids would be here. The women had to do yarn spinning, while the boys did carpentry. On the side, you can see the initials MHS and UMB, who were for the original owner’s Mads Haraldssøn and Annichen Mecklenburg. Parts of the property are among the first to be built in Christiania when the city was founded. The stone tablets in the wing towards Nedre Slottsgate indicate the building is from 1638, and according to the city antiquary in Oslo, this is Oslo’s oldest known building. There are traces of an even older building on the plot. The date 1640 on it is likely from an extension.

    Bankplassen

    The square comes from Norges Bank, which was built here in 1828. It is now used by the Museum of Architecture. You pass it on your right as you head into Bankplassen.

    The square was renovated in 2016 for Norge Banks 200th anniversary. The square got new light poles using historic luminaires.

    The Christiania Theatre was located on Bankplassen from 1837 to 1899. Cafe Engelbret quickly became a permanent place for many artists. The theatre was torn down to make way for Norges Bank, whose new building opened in 1900.

    You can see Cafe Engelbret at the other end of the square.

     

    Cafe Engebret

    The restaurant is named after the founder Engebret Christoffersen, who started the restaurant in 1857. It moved here in 1863 and has undergone very few changes. The building is from 1760.

    The Engebret Movement, a network of female journalists in Oslo, took their name from the place. They existed for 10 years and the goal was to promote female journalists in the business. The network worked for gender equality through the Norwegian Journalists Association. They wanted equal pay and better working conditions.

    Café Engebret was popular for many artists because the old Christiania Theatre was located here from 1837 to 1899. Engebret became a permanent place for many artists. The theatre was torn down to make way for the second Norges bank building, which opened in 1900.

    Kongens gate

    This is one of the original streets of Christiania, laid out in 1624. If you turn right instead of left, you’ll see the road leads to the fortress. Most of the part we are walking through has been rebuilt over the years, with the buildings here from 1638.

    Kongens gate 6 is from 1915. It is considered Norway’s first modern business building.

    Tollbugata 19

    Head into Tollbugata to look at building number 19.

    This building is a small apartment building from 1687, though it has some parts on it that are older. The irons on the side of the building are beautifully decorated.

    Prinsens gate 18

    You’ve now made it to the north of Kvadraturen. On your right is a white building – this is Prinsens gate 18. It is the oldest house on Prinsens gate. It is from 1640 and was originally one floor but was later extended to two floors. Andreas Tofte, who was Oslo’s first mayor (1837-38), lived and ran a business here from 1824 to 1848.

    In 1989, the property was severely damaged after a pyromaniac lit the building. The owner chose to restore the building, but it was upgraded to today’s standards. During the work, ceiling decorations from the 17th century were uncovered and restored

    Prinsens gate

    Prinsens gate is a 600m long street that runs through Kvadraturen. The street is mostly modern office buildings. Most were replaced after a large fire in 1858 destroyed 40 buildings. The buildings were rebuilt with businesses in mind, mostly because by this point fewer people were living in Kvadraturen. Historically, there were several pubs here and the street was very well known for its social activities. Halvorsen’s patisserie on Wessels plass has been running in the same place since 1881.

    Kirkegata

    The street, which means “Church Street”, runs from Bankplassen to Stortorvet, where Oslo Cathedral is today. It was originally called Prindsens gang and got its current name when Oslo Cathedral was completed. Originally this was a street for the rich, but after the fire of 1858 many properties were rebuilt for businesses. In the 19th century, this was the city’s main thoroughfare.

    Rådhusgata 11 / Statholdergården

    You’ve now made it to the north of Kvadraturen. On your right is a white building – this is Prinsens gate 18. It is the oldest house on Prinsens gate. It is from 1640 and was originally one floor but was later extended to two floors. Andreas Tofte, who was Oslo’s first mayor (1837-38), lived and ran a business here from 1824 to 1848.

    In 1989, the property was severely damaged after a pyromaniac lit the building. The owner chose to restore the building, but it was upgraded to today’s standards. During the work, ceiling decorations from the 17th century were uncovered and restored.

    Rådhusgata 10, 12, 14

    This building was originally three small properties that were constructed at the end of the 1620s. They have all undergone changes through the years – they were last restored in 1980 and incorporated into Norges Bank.

    Grev Wedels Plass

    This is a lovely park that was laid out in 1869. The name comes from Herman Wedel-Jarlsberg (1779-1840), who was the president of the Storting (parliament), an ironworks owner, county governor, and finance minister.

    After Akershus was closed as an active fortress in 1818, the area was turned into a government quarter. The Parliament and the Supreme Court were initially going to stand here, but it was banned by military authorities in 1836. The Park opened instead in the 1860s and quickly developed a bad reputation for hosting illegal activities. In the 1930s, it was paved over and turned into a car park. During World War II, the square was used for barracks and shelters. In 1988, the park was reconstructed and reopened.

    The red building to your left is from 1840. The white building across the street and to the right is the Army Depot, a warehouse building designed in Empire Style from 1828. Further down is an orange building – this is Ridehuset. It was originally a stable but opened in 2007 as a concert venue. There’s an entrance to Akershus Fortress by Ridehuset.

    Gamle Logen

    The building on the opposite end is Gamle Logen. It was built in 1839 as a Masonic Lodge and banquet hall. Several events have been held in this building, such as a special dinner for Fridtjof Nansen and his crew after their first Fram trip. Until World War II, it was also a popular concert venue. Edvard Grieg (there’s a bust of him outside), Ole Bull, Johan Svensen and Halfdan Kierulf have performed here. After World War II, the building was used as the Court of Appeal, and this is where Vidkun Quisling was sentenced to death on the 10th of September 1945. It was also used as a canteen by Oslo’s dock workers. After extensive rehabilitation, it reopened in 1988 as a concert and cultural venue.

    Military Hospital

    Now you can see the Military Hospital. It is a beautiful wooden building from 1807 and was originally built as a hospital for soldiers. As Denmark-Norway was heading into the Napoleonic Wars, a new hospital was needed. After Norway became Swedish in 1814, it was a general hospital for the public, which it remained until 1883. It was then dismantled and taken to the Norwegian Folk Museum, where it sat in storage until 1983. Now it’s back at its original spot.

    Garmanngården

    At the corner of Rådhusgata and Dronningens gate is a beautiful red home. It is Garmanngarden, one of the city’s oldest standing buildings. Parts of the building are from 1622 (before Oslo burned in 1624), though most of the building is from 1625-1630. The anchors on the building have the date 1647, which is probably when the building got its current appearance. For its first 100 hours, the building was the residence of important men in Oslo, such as Land Commissioner Johan Garmann (where the property got its name from) and Governor Just Høeg.

    The building was given to the city by King Chrisitan VI as the new town hall in 1734. It was also used as a courtroom, a meeting room for the magistrate, a theatre, concert and party room. There was also a police station, detention facilities and a prison.

    Today the building is used by the Society for Oslo Byes Vel, which is a historical association that promotes the city’s history. All those blue signs on old buildings are managed by Oslo Byes Vel.

    The War School

    This building was established in 1804 to train officers for the Norwegian army. The students received a five-year education. Most of the cadets were listed, and the majority were the sons of officers. The school provided insight into military technology, general education, physical education, and military education. This is one of the world’s oldest military academies that has been in continuous education.

    Posthallen

    Across the street is ‘Posthallen’. It was built between 1914 and 1924 as Oslo’s main post office. Today the building is used as shops and apartments – the post office moved to a different building in 2004.

     

    Pascal Patisserie

    Diagonally across from the Military School is Pascal Patisserie, a very famous place for sweet treats. There has been a patisserie here since 1650. Sadly, the original building burned down and wasn’t rebuilt until 1870. The interior is left fully untouched from 1895.

    The current owner is the ninth owner of the patisserie. It is Pascal Dupuy, a French pastry chef who came to Norway in the 1980s and opened his patisserie in this building in 1995. Pascal Dupuy has gained international recognition for his products, and he is considered one of the world’s best confectioners. He even has a show on Norwegian television that follows him educating his staff and creating unique pieces for special events.

    There are multiple Pascal patisseries around Oslo, but this one is the one to visit. They serve French-inspired lunch dishes plus many good desserts. You can also admire the original interior, the glass roof, and a fresco painted by Åsmund Stray in 1895.

    Treschowgården

    This building was built for Gerhard Treschow, an immigrant from Denmark who became the customs officer in 1683. He ended up becoming one of the city’s largest factory owners with sawmills, brickworks, a paper mill, oil mill, and soap factory. He bought the property in 1710. For a while, it was the Cathedral School, and then it was a hotel. Today it is an office building for the Fred Olsen shipping company.

    Oslo Stock Exchange

    This building was built for Gerhard Treschow, an immigrant from Denmark who became the customs officer in 1683. He ended up becoming one of the city’s largest factory owners with sawmills, brickworks, a paper mill, oil mill, and soap factory. He bought the property in 1710. For a while, it was the Cathedral School, and then it was a hotel. Today it is an office building for the Fred Olsen shipping company.

    Customs Office

    This is the customs house. There have been five customs houses on this site – the first one was built by Gerhard Treschow in the 1680s, but it was replaced by the next customs officer, Frantz Jørgensen. He wanted his own customs house, so had it designed to his taste. The site used to be on the pier, but it was filled in 1957-1960.

    Frantz’s customs house was so rotten by 1770 that it was torn down and replaced. However, in 1785 a huge fire destroyed the pier area, customs house included. In 1790 mason and architect Hans Christian Lind built a new customs house, now number 4. It was torn down and replaced in 1895. That building is the one we see today.

    Customs Warehouse

    This is a customs warehouse from 1915. Behind is the Tollpakkhuset, a customs warehouse from 1915. It now houses the Norwegian Customs Museum. The museum has all the uniforms spanning 350 years, plus all the stuff people tried to smuggle into Norway – this alone makes for a very entertaining visit.

    Oslo Opera House

    You’ve now reached the library/Oslo Opera House area, with the Central Station on your left. I hope you enjoyed this walk around Christiania!

    Enjoy More of Oslo

    Visit the travel guide page to see road-trips, restaurants, and top activities that you can do. 

    Oslo Travel Guide
  • Central Norway, Namsos, Norway's Coastal Road, Road-trips, Trondheim

    Drive it Yourself: Trondheim to Namsos on the E6

    Drive it Yourself: Trondheim to Namsos on the E6

    Welcome to my guide for the drive between Trondheim and Namsos. This drive primarily takes place on the European Highway 6, which runs practically the entire length of Norway. It is also partly the beginning of Norway’s coastal road (Kystriksveien), a famous scenic drive along a huge part of the coastline.

    While this drive may at first seem a little dull, there’s a lot of interesting places to visit along the way. There are sites that are important to Norway’s early Christianity years – Stiklestad, Munkeby Abbey. There are also historically significant places, such as Falstad ant Steinviksholm. Each place is a short detour off the E6 and a great way to break up the drive.

    Enjoy my guide to driving on the E6 (and Fv17) between Trondheim and Namsos!

    In this article...

    Download this Guide

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    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Information about facilities along the way

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the region & towns
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Facilities including supermarkets, toilets, petrol, hotels, cafes, restaurants with addresses.

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

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    The Drive: Trondheim to Namsos

    Trondheim

    This drive begins in historic Trondheim. You can easily spend a few days here – read my travel guide for more information. 

    Trondheim Travel Guide

    Hell Train Station

    Station

    For a fun photo stop, visit Hell train station just next to the Trondheim Airport. Hell in Norwegian means ‘luck’, but for us non-Norwegians, it’s kinda funny.

    Skatval Church

    Church

    You’ll see Skatval Church on the right-hand side as you leave the Trondheim Airport area. This is a beautiful church in the Swiss chalet style, which is fairly unique for churches in Norway.

    The church is from 1901 and seats about 440 people. The site has been used for churches for hundreds of years, and the first church on this site was possibly a stave church, but little is known about it. Another church was established here in the 17th century, and it survived until 1767, when it was torn down and replaced. In 1901, the church was replaced with a larger church.

    Steinviksholmen Castle

    Historic Site

    How to get here:

    Steinviksholmen is clearly marked on Google Maps. It’s just off the E6 and marked with brown tourist signs the entire way. It’s about 10-15 minutes off the E6.

    The road is very narrow, and you’ll have to watch out for traffic coming the other way.

    —–

    Steinvikholmen Castle is a 16th century castle constructed by Norway’s last Roman Catholic Bishop, Olav Engelbrektsson. After meeting with the Pope, Olav’s resistance to the Danish rule and the Reformation escalated. Steinvikholm was built as the Catholic churches military stronghold. The castle was finished in 1532, but sadly for Olav the Reformation succeeded in 1537 and Olav was forced to flee to Lier. It was the last Catholic stronghold in Norway. When Olav fled, he left Saint Olav’s shrine and other treasures, and they were returned to Nidaros Cathedral in 1568.

    After the Reformation, the site was used as a quarry and some of its masonry was sold off. Since the late 19th century, the site has been owned and operated by the Past Memory Association (Fortidsminneforeningen). It is used as concert hall for a midnight opera, Olav Engelbrektsson, which details the life and struggles of the archbishop. The opera takes place annually.

    Steinvikholm Castle is Norway’s largest structure from the Middle Ages.

    In summer, it is open as a museum. There are also photographs and information boards (Norwegian and English) around the site. You can walk around the fortress for free, but the interior is what costs money. When we visited, we saw lots of kids swimming in the water around the fortress.

    You park on the mainland and pay a small fee (they use Vipps to accept parking payment), and then walk across the bridge (photographed) to the castle. The entrance is on the other side from my photos.

    Even if you aren’t interested in the castle, the surrounding scenery is gorgeous.

    Levanger Municipality

    Levanger is a very old region, and it’s possibly a settlement from the Iron Age. Levanger is known from the Viking Age, as it is mentioned in the old sagas when it was ruled by a chieftain. Evidence of the Viking Age is found around the municipality in the form of burial mounds. The one by Alstadhaug Church, called Alvshaugen, is from 300-600 CE.

    Historically, Levanger was an important marketplace between Norway and Sweden. The town was ‘founded’ by King Charles XIV of Sweden on 18 May 1836, but there was an already well-established village. The market had been taking place there since the 13th century.

    Throughout the 19th century, the famous market’s economic importance faced, and it became more of a tradition than a viable market. When Norway was occupied during World War II, the German forces put a stop to the market. It was not until 1989 that the market was resumed, and it still takes place today. Still, it’s not important as it was pre-19th century.

    Today Levanger is also a working municipality. The world’s largest paper producing company, Norske Skog, had its first ever factory in Skogn. The factory is still there today and provides 530 jobs at the plant, plus 1900 jobs in transportation and forestry. Additionally, Levanger is an excellent area for agrictulture. The town has a hospital and a branch of Nord University.

    If you are looking for a place to visit, I recommend going to Alstahaug medieval church to see both the church and the Alvshaugen burial mound. If you want to go for a nice walk, consider visiting the Munkeby Abbey ruins and the Viking Age gravemounds at Gjeite. As you can see, there’s a lot to do here!

    We visit the Falstad concentration camp on this drive, but on the map I’ve included the above attractions.

    Vuddu Valley

    Restaurant

    Vuddu Valley is a unique place to stop for a meal. It’s completely inspired by the 1960s U.S. diners. The Norwegian owners bought a blue pickup truck in North Carolina, and it has served as inspiration for their diner. Additionally, they have a small museum with items mostly from the 1950s and 1960s.

    Click here to visit their website. 

    Frostatinget

    Historic Site

    This was an early Norwegian court that made up one of the four major “things” in Norway. It is arguably Norway’s oldest court, predating the Viking period. This is where chieftains would meet to discuss laws and events. The site has a huge stone marker on it.

    Falstad Centre

    Historic Site

    In the video, I go to Falstad concentration camp. It’s one of the most complete camps left in Norway, and today it is a memorial and information centre.

    I’ve written a separate article about Falstad Centre, which you can view via the button below.

    Falstad Centre

    Levanger

    Town

    Shortly after the Falstad Centre, we pass turn-offs to Levanger. If you want to visit the main street, just follow signs towards Levanger. I mentioned the history of Levanger town centre in the section about Levanger municipality.

    Munkeby Abbey Ruins

    Historic Site

    Just after Levanger town is the turn-off to the ruins of Munkeby Abbey. It’s just a short drive from the E6, and is a nice area to go to stretch your legs.

    The Munkeby Abbey was founded some time between 1150 and 1180 and it was the most northly Cistercian foundation in the world. It was likely built by English monks. The monastery was eventually closed down, though the church was used until 1587.

    Verdal Municipality

    People have lived at Verdal since the Stone Age, and there are farms in the region that are mentioned as far back as the 12th century. The municipality is best known for the site Stiklestad, where we are heading to next.

    A unique word to learn for this area is råning. It refers to all the young people here who are interested in cars. They spend a lot of their time improving or styling their cars and then driving them on a particular route to show them off.

    The economy here is supported by the offshore industry as well as agriculture. Verdal is also known as one of the greatest lottery towns of Norway, with several lottery grand prizes going to people living in Verdal.

    Stikelstad

    Historic Site

    Stiklestad is one of the most important religious sites in the country. It is where, in 1030, St. Olav fell in battle during the Battle of Stiklestad. His sainthood arose from this death.

    Today Stiklestad feels like a bit of a tourist trap – they’ve built up all these new centres, exhibitions and hotels in the last 20 years – but there’s still historical interest in visiting here.

    You can read my separate guide to Stiklestad below.

    Stiklestad

    Inderøy Municipality

    Inderøy is an agricultural municipality located in North Trøndelag. The municipality has been inhabited since the Middle Ages, and the village of Sakshaug used to be an important political centre. It is home to one of the oldest churches in the area, Old Sakshaug Church, from 1184.

    The coat-of-arms shows the European plaice. The fish was once plentiful int he waters and was one of the main sources of income in the area until around 1940. Fishing is still important to the region. Farming is also very important to the area, and most of the municipality is cultivated. Grass and grain are the most common crops, but strawberries are also common. Most farmers have their own forest, too.

    The population density is 19.4 inhabitants per sq km (50/sq mi). The population has increased by 15.9% over the last 10 years.

    One of the most prominent 20th century Norwegian sculptors, Nils Aas, is from this area.

    Old Sakshaug Church

    Church

    The church is about 12 minutes off the E6, and it’s in the middle of Sakshaug village. Old Sakshaug church was built between 1150 and 1180, and it is one of the oldest churches in Trøndelag county. The choir is the oldest part of the building. The choir was ‘modernised’ with Gothic details in the 1200s.

    Steinkjer Municipality

    Steinkjer is one of the larger municipalities in the region, though its population density is very low, with just 12.6 inhabitants per sq km (33 sq mi). The population has increased by 2.4% over the last 10 years. The coat-of-arms shows a verranjekt, a type of boat that is very common in the area. It’s a new coat-of-arms from 2020.

    The area around Steinkjer is historic – it has been populated since the Stone Age. Rock carvings can be seen in the area, and the oldest are 6,000 years old. During the Viking Age, Steinkjer was an important base and Maere was one of the best known religious places with sacrifices and gatherings before Christianity came to the country.

    The town of Steinkjer was sadly bombed during World War II. The attack destroyed a large part of Steinkjer, and many priceless historic buildings, including the church, were lost. The town was quickly rebuilt after the war with the help of aid from the United States. Much of the architecture found in Steinkjer is from the 1950s and 1960s and is inspired by functionalism. One of the few buildings to survive the bombing is the train station, which is designed in art nouveau.

    Steinkjer is one of the northernmost areas with rich agriculture, allowing large production of grain. You’ll notice as you drive through just how important grain production is to the area. Tall grain silos can be seen all over the landscape.

    The oldest church in the area is Maere Church. It’s just a few minutes off the E6, so we visit it.

    Mære Church

    Historic Site

    In the early Viking Age, according to the Sagas, Mære was one of the most important religious ceremonial places, with sacrifices to the Norse gods.

    The stone church was built in a long church style during the 12th century by an unknown architect. It’s noted for its medieval roof featuring the carvings of heads projecting form the top of its walls. Coins dating from the reign of King Sverre (1183-1202) have been found during excavations.

    Under the church are traces of the ‘hof’ (pagan worshipping site) that used to be on the side. It was uncovered during the 1950s and is the only case in Norway of a pre-Christian building being found to have existed on the site of a church. The nature of that structure was not clear.

    The church is just a few minutes off the E6. There is a huge parking lot outside the agricultural school, but you can also park by the church.

    Namsos

    You have arrived at our final stop, Namsos. From here, you can access Norway’s famous Coastal Road. 

    Namsos Travel Guide

    Continue the drive

    Norway's Coastal Road Part 3: Brønnøysund to Sandnessjøen

    See the first part of Norway’s Coastal Road.

    Brønnøysund to Sandnessjøen

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Central Norway, History, Trondheim

    Finding St. Olav at Stiklestad, an Important Christian Site in Norway

    Finding St. Olav at Stiklestad, an Important Christian Site in Norway

    If you’re in Trondheim or driving around it, one of the places you can visit nearby is Stiklestad. Stiklestad is a small agricultural village with a big story: it was the site of the most famous battle in Norwegian history. The Battle of Stiklestad is when Norway’s Saint Olav was killed in battle in 1030.
    Today Stiklestad is not so much a town as it is a huge shrine to St. Olav. Even if you aren’t religious or even know who St. Olav was, there’s something fascinating about this place. It’s basically an open field full of monuments, churches and chapels, plus some places designed to bring in tourist dollars.
    I visited Stiklestad this year while driving from Trondheim to Namsos. I must admit I was a little disappointed; I felt the attractions (most of which were built in the last 20 years) were too focused on kids on summer holidays. Still, I love Norwegian history and wanted to visit.
    Here’s my overview of Stiklestad.

    In this article...

    The E6 Highway

    The Falstad Centre is located on the E6, Norway’s main highway. You can find my guide to the E6 by clicking the link below. 

    The E6 Highway
    Trondheim Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    History of Olav & Stiklestad

    Who was Saint Olav?

    Olav (or Olaf, depending on where in the world you are) was not born into the sainthood life, the sainthood life chose him. He was born around 995 as the son of a petty king in Vestfold, though he was the great-great-grandchild of Harald Fairhair, Norway’s first king. He was raised in England, where he became influenced by Catholicism. He decided to return to his home country and try to convert the people, who were mostly pagan at the time. Additionally, Olav saw it as his calling to unite Norway as one country. In 1015, Olav returned to Norway and declared himself king. At the time, Norway was divided into petty kingdoms. Olav was able to get five of them on his side, mostly in the south.
    Olav is widely accredited with Christianising Norway, though some historians debate the influence he had. What many historians do agree on is that Olav was particularly violent in the ways he Christianised the people: he would travel to the small villages and tell them to become Christian, or he’d kill them. Many stave churches were erected during this time to appease Olav. It’s believed Olav used Christianity as a means to get control over Norway.
    Olav was known as a strong fighter, and during his time as the Norwegian king, he took part in several battles around the North and Baltic Seas. In these battles, he succeeded, asserting his suzerainty in the Orkney Islands, raiding Denmark, and making peace with Sweden. His success was short-lived, though. In 1029, the Norwegian nobles were tired of Olav and supported the invasion of King Cnut the Great in Denmark. Olav was driven to exile in Russia. He returned to Norway in 1029 but fell at the Battle of Stikelstad in 1030. King Cnut ruled Norway for five years after the battle, but their regency was unpopular and Olav’s illegitimate son Magnus (the Good) lay claim to the Norwegian throne.

    The Battle of Stiklestad

    The Battle of Stiklestad is one of the most famous battles in Norwegian history. This is the battle where Olav died. Now, the authenticity of the battle as a historical event is subject to question. There are differing stories about Olav’s death, but for argument’s sake, we will use the most commonly told story.
    As mentioned above, Olav returned to Norway after a short stint in exile in 1029. Olav and his 3,600 men travelled through Sweden before arriving at Stikelstad, a small farm in the lower part of the valley Verdal. When at Stiklestad, Olav and his men met an army led by Harek of Tjøtta and some men who had previously served Olav. The men were tired of the king’s brutal methods in converting the people to Christianity. There are conflicting stories as to who killed Olav – either it was his own, some men in an ambush, or a cowardly assault by strangers. However, this battle would cause Olav’s death.
    According to the sagas, Olav received three severe wounds – in the knee, neck, and finally, a spear through his stomach. This battle took place on the 29th of July, a day now full of festivities in Stiklestad.
    After his death, his body was laid in a sandy bank in Trondheim. According to the sagas, a farmer from Stiklestad buried the body here. The following year the grave was taken up ad given a new grave outside St. Clements Church. Shortly after, the coffin was again moved into the church that would eventually become Nidaros Cathedral. It’s written that Olav’s body was intact, sweet-scented and with hair and nails having grown since his death. A well close to where his body lay was believed to have healing powers. Olav was canonised on the 3rd of August 1031 by Bishop Grimkjell in Norway. In 1164, Pope Alexander III declared Olav a saint.
    There is little historical connection between the battle and the Christianisation of Norway, but the battle is still considered an important part of Christianity in Norway.

    Shrines & Sainthood

    After Olav became a saint, a cult around Olav was quickly formed, and it is widely accredited for unifying the country. In that sense, Olav was successful in unifying Norway – it was just after his death.
    Olav’s shrine at Nidaros quickly became an important pilgrimage site, and it is first mentioned in history in 1070. By this time, he was already referred to as Norway’s eternal king. The shrine was the resting place for his remains and it sat behind the high altar in Nidaros Cathedral in Trondheim.
    There were three shrines to Olav. The first was the original wooden coffin from Stiklestad, covered by an expensive cloth. The second was a costly shrine that was made by King Magnus Olavsson, Olav’s son. The third shrine was covered in silver and covered the other two shrines. Olav’s shrine is no more, though. After the Reformation, the shrine was taken out of Nidaros Cathedral. It’s believed to have been lost on a shipwreck on the Trondheim Fjord on its way to Copenhagen. All valuables from Nidaros were smashed and taken to Copenhagen for melting. From the shrine holding Olav came 2.6kg of silver and several gold plates. Denmark has never paid any compensation to Norway for the destruction of St. Olav’s Shrine and the theft of silver and jewels.
    It’s believed that the original wooden coffin was kept and buried at Steinvikholm when the Archbishop was fleeing during the Reformation. However, 24 years after the Reformation was the Nordic Seven-Year War, and the Swedes occupied the area. They moved the wooden coffin to Fløan Chapel and then to Nidaros Cathedral. They put it back under the cathedral, but the exact location is unknown. Later on, when the area was back under Danish control, the Danish minister let “earth fill the grave of St. Olav’s body” to put an end to the pilgrimages. Many historians have tried to find the coffin but have been unsuccessful. There are many medieval graves in Nidaros, and historians think it’s one of them.

    Olav Around Europe

    Olav became very popular in Scandinavia, and many churches in Sweden, Iceland, and Norway are dedicated to him. His presence was even felt in Finland and many travelled to visit his shrine. It is possible still today to do the Pilgrims Way (Pilegrimsleden) from Oslo to Nidaros Cathedral. The journey is 640km and is done by hundreds of people each year.

    Apart from the early traces of a cult in England, there are only scattered references to him outside the Nordic area. Several churches in England were dedicated to him, including St. Olave’s Church in York, St. Olave Hart Street in the City of London, and St. Olave’s Church south of the London Bridge.

    Places with References to Olav

    • The basilica of the Sant’Ambrogio e Carlo al Corso in Rome has a chapel of St. Olav
    • In Germany, there used to be a shrine of St. Olav in Koblenz
    • In the Faroe Islands, the day of St. Olav’s death is a national holiday
    • The town of Ulvila in Finland uses St. Olav on their coat of arms
    • Normandy uses Saint Olav as an important figure and was chosen unofficially as the patron saint of the Normans. The normand flag has been called the St. Olav Cross.
    • A bone from St. Olav’s arm is kept as a relic in the crypt of the Rouen Cathedral.
    • Olav’s Chapel in Covarrubias, Spain
    • Olaf’s Church is the tallest church in Tallinn, Estonia. There are many churches named after St. Olav in Estonia
    • Saint Olaf Catholic church in Minneapolis. There are multiple St. Olav churches in North America
    • The oldest picture of St. Olav is painted on a column in the Church of the Nativity in Bethlehem
    • Olaf street in Lerwick, Scotland

    Stiklestad: What you can see and do

    The village of Stikelstad

    Stiklestad is a very small village that has primarily been used for agriculture since it was settled.
    Due to its association with Norwegian cultural history, between 1934 and 1944 Vidkun Quisling’s Nationalist Nasjonal Samling party held several rallies at Stiklestad in an attempt to link the party of Norway’s historic part. A special Nasjonal Samling monument was erected there in July 1944 but was demolished after the war.
    Click here to see a photo of the monument. 

    Stiklestad Visitor Centre

    People have been visiting Stiklestad ever since the battle in 1030, but it’s only in recent times that the location has been turned into more of a destination. Most of the structures and attractions have only been built in the last 20 years.
    The Stiklestad National Cultural Centre was established in 1995. However, monuments have been here since shortly after the battle. It’s believed the first monument was put up in medieval times, and the church was also established soon after.
    The visitor centre has some indoor exhibitions, but practically all the items inside are replicas. Still, it’s a good place to go to get an understanding of the importance of Olav in Norway. They also have a souvenir shop and a cafe.
    There is a huge free carpark by the visitor centre, which is where you’ll park.

    Stiklestad Church

    The church is the closest attraction to the visitor centre, and in my opinion it is the most important thing to see when in Stiklestad because it is closest in age to the Battle.
    Stiklestad Church was built in a Romanesque style around 1180. Construction was initiated by Archbishop Øystein Erlendsson, and it’s believed the site the church is built on is the place where Olav was killed. The stone that Olav was laying on as he died is supposedly still inside the altar of the church.
    Most of the interior decoration is post-Reformation. Today the church is a Lutheran Church. Only the richly decorated baptismal font is preserved from the medieval times. It’s from the 14th century. You’ll find some medieval decorative elements on the outside of the church, especially around the southern and northern portals.
    The most unique thing to see on the church is one of the sculptures on the northern side of the church. It is a woman squatting, lifting her skirt, and having sex. This ‘Sheelanagig’ figure is found throughout Trøndelag and it is also common in England, Ireland, and northern France. ‘Sheelanagig’ may be associated with fertility and protection against evil forces. This is a pre-Christian belief, so it’s interesting that it’s on a Christian church.
    In summer they do open the church to the public. You can book a guided tour from the Visitor Centre, which I’d highly recommend if interested in history.

    St. Olav's Chapel (Russian Orthodox)

    St. Olav’s Chapel is a Russian Orthodox church building from 2003. The chapel belongs to Saint Olga, a Russian Orthodox congregation in Oslo.

    St. Olav's Chapel (Catholic)

    There is another Saint Olav’s Chapel in Stiklestad. This one is a Catholic chapel from 1930, built for the 900th anniversary of the Battle of Stiklestad.

    Olavsstøtta

    This is a monument from 1807 in memory of the Battle of Stiklestad. The memorial is one of the oldest preserved public monuments in Norway. The monument is built on Olavhaugen with a view of Stiklestadsletta where the church is located. According to tradition, the monument was erected on the spot where the shed in which Olav was laid after he fell is said to be located.

    There are some legends that the monument has healing effects. A travelling violinist fell ill while going from Russia to Norway, but he recovered when he arrived at Stikelstad and touched the stone.

    The Middle Ages Centre

    The Middle Ages Centre is a farm that consists of a longhouse, smithy, and other small warehouses. The longhouse was completed in 2009 to try and show what a longhouse would’ve looked like at the end of the Viking Age. The longhouse is primarily to teach about the late Viking age and tell stories about the transition from the Norse pre-Christian society to the medieval society based on the Christian faith.

    Folk Museum

    Close by is the Folk Museum, a collection of 30 buildings from the surrounding farms. The buildings are typically from between the 17th and 19th centuries. There are also nearly 30,000 objects from these nearby properties. The goal of the museum is to document the history of farming in the Verdal valley.

    Plan Your Visit

    Where is Stiklestad?

    Stiklestad is 90 minutes north-east of Trondheim, making it a very reasonable day-trip if you want to get out of the city. Just follow the E6 north and you’ll see brown tourist signs indicating where to turn off to get to Stiklestad. I highly recommend going with a car.  It seems there are no direct buses from Trondheim.

    Finding your way around

    Once you’ve parked your car, it’s fairly easy to find your away around Stiklestad. To get to most attractions, it’s highly recommended to walk. Parking is not possible outside most places.

    The village is built on a slope, with the longhouse being on a hill. I would say it’s a 15 minute walk from the centre. Additionally, most of the area is an open field so it’s grassy to walk on.

    In the map above, I’ve provided an overview of where everything is. 

    Opening hours/prices

    To stay up-to-date with the opening hours and prices, I recommend checking out the Stiklestad website directly by clicking here.

    Parking is free.

    Most of the attractions are outdoors, so you can see them for free. The vast majority of activities take place during summer, between the end of June and middle of August. Honestly, a lot of the activities are centred around children. Still, if you want a historical or informative experience, you can book a guide.

    Spending the night

    There is a hotel in the main centre – the Scandic Stiklestad – where you can stay the night.

    Share your thoughts!

    This is all I have to say about Stiklestad. We spent about an hour here before heading out. We were more interested in Olavsstotta and the Stiklestad Church, both of which have some historic merit. The story of St. Olav and his importance still today is fascinating, but sadly the site where he was killed is so lacking in authentic history that it’s a little hard to find Stiklestad more than a bit of a tourist trap.

    The E6 Highway

    The Falstad Centre is located on the E6, Norway’s main highway. You can find my guide to the E6 by clicking the link below. 

    The E6 Highway
    Trondheim Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide