Emma

Hey! My name is Emma. I'm from Australia but have lived in Bergen, Norway, for the last eight years. I work as a local guide and tour leader for all over Northern Europe. The Hidden North is an online travel guide I have made to help you plan your own visit here.

  • Bodø, Hurtigruten, Walking Guides

    From World War II to Street Art: Bodø Self-Guided Walking Tour

    From World War II to Street Art: Bodø Self-Guided Walking Tour

    Located just above the Arctic circle, Bodø is a city of transformation. Built up in the late 19th century, this important fishing harbour was completely ravaged from bombing in the early days of the German occupation during World War II. Following the war, the city was rebuilt into a functionalist style. While not the most attractive architectural style by modern standards, Bodø is a fascinating city to walk around. The last ten years have brought huge growth and new modern structures to this mini metropolis, and Bodø has been named the European Capital of Culture for 2024. Explore the fascinating city of Bodø!

    In this article...

    Norway's Coastal Road

    Bodø is located at the end of the Fv17, which is Norway’s Coastal Road. You can find my guide to the Fv17 by clicking the link below. 

    The Fv17 Highway
    Bodø Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Downloadable Version of This Guide

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided walks on our online store. 

    View at the Store

    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Information about facilities along the way

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the region & towns
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Facilities including supermarkets, toilets, petrol, hotels, cafes, restaurants with addresses.
    • Link to a map you can load into your phone

    Bodø Self-Guided Walk

    Hurtigruten Terminal

    This tour begins at the Hurtigruten terminal, which is where many people arrive in the afternoon to explore Bodø for a few hours with the Hurtigruten.

    The Hurtigruten is a coastal ferry that goes from Bergen to Kirkenes and back again, stopping in 32 ports along the way.

    The next terminal you’ll pass is where the car ferries go to Røst to Værøy as well as Moskenes in Lofoten. The ferry to Moskenes takes around 2.5 hours.

    Bodø Station

    Bodø Station is the terminus of the Nordland Line that was completed in 1961. The station is served by day and night trains to Trondheim (728km away), plus commuter trains to Rognan and Fauske. The trip to Trondheim takes 9 hours and 50 minutes and it is not electrified.

    The decision to build the railway to Bodø was made in 1923, but it was not completed until the 1960s due to lack of funds and World War II. The railway is also used by freight traffic.

    Kirkens Bymisjon

    On your left is Kirkens Bymisjon (Church City Mission), an organisation that conducts social work in Norway on a Christian humanistic basis. They focus on substance abuse, mental health, child welfare, elderly care, prostitution measures and church activities. The building on the left is where you can get assistance from the church, plus they also sell items second hand to raise funds for their services. It’s a great place if you love vintage shopping, or just want some unique souvenirs from Norway.

    Orestad Park

    The park is named after Ivar Orestad, a violinist who lived here.

    In 2021, it was renamed to Sissel Bjugns Park. Sissel Bjugn (1947 – 2011) was a Norwegian poet and children’s writer who lived in Bodø for a large part of her adult life (she was originally born in Bardu)

    After School

    Bodø is famous for its street art. In 2015, the first UpNorth festival was held here, where international and national artists were given the freedom to paint on some of Bodø’s walls.

    This artwork is titled After School and is by the Russian artist Rustam QBic. His paintings are known for being saturated with bright colours and a playful sense of the absurd.

    We’ll see a couple works on this tour, but if you are interested in seeing more Bodø tourist board has made a map of all the big artworks. You can view it here

    Bodø Town Hall

    Bodø Town Hall is the main municipal building in Bodø with the municipality’s political and administrative headquarters. The building was built after the war, and it was designed by Gudolf Blakstad and Herman Munthe-Kaas, who gave it a functionalist style.

    A new extension has been built at the town hall. It is designed by the Danish studio ALL (Atelier Lorentzen Langkilde). The façade geometry is designed to capture the changing light conditions in the Arctic. The building links together the older buildings from the 1960s, which will still be in use.

    About the extension: https://www.archdaily.com/931586/bodo-town-hall-atelier-lorentzen-langkilde

    Rådhusparken

    A brand-new park has been constructed across from the town hall. There’s Rådhusparken, the one we see, and directly behind it is Solparken. These are lovely open spaces with fun games for kids and nice places to sit as well.

    In the park you’ll find a monolith with a sign next to it. The monolith is from the Iron Age and was originally located close to the airport. There were at least five monoliths and several burials on the site, but it was moved here in 1952 to be closer to the museum.

    Bodø Cathedral

    The original church was built in 1888. It was yellow, wooden, and neo-Gothic. The church was destroyed during the bombing on 27 May 1940. In 1946, an architectural competition was held for the design of the new church. The new church was finished in 1956.

    The stained-glass window is 40 feet high, and it has a beautiful 5,000 pipe German-style organ.

    The church is built of concrete and has a basilica design. There is an external sculpture depicting Petter Dass. The church seats 890 people.

    The church has a 36m (118ft) tall free-standing clock tower with three bells. There is a memorial to those who died in World War II.

    Outside the city is Bodin Church, a stone church built in 1240.

    Nordlandsmuseet

    Recounting the short history of Bodø, this gem of a museum has an entertaining and informative 25-minute film with English subtitles on the town’s development. Highlights include a mock-up of the fishermans rorbuer, a section on Sami culture complete with sod hut and ritual drum, regalia related to the towns fishing heritage and a small hoard of 9th century Viking treasure that was discovered in 1919.

    The building is from 1903 and housed the city’s fisheries museum.

    Information on the museum can be found here: https://nordlandsmuseet.no/en/citymuseum

    Svenskebyen

    Due to a lack of housing from the bombing of World War II, the Swedish government helped build 107 apartments in the winter of 1941. These houses were tightly built together just outside of town. The area today is called The Swedish Town.

    A Kiss Between Cultures

    The motif shows two children playing together. One child is of Sami origin and the other comes from the indigenous population in the Andes. The artwork represents two different indigenous groups. The latter is part of the artwork and symbolises a bridge between the cultures.

    Note – unfortunately from 2022 the artwork has been removed to make way for new building construction. 

    Bodø Library & Concert Hall

    These buildings are a welcome modern addition to the city’s post-war architecture. Plans for a library began in 2009, when an international competition was held to design the library. The plan was to build a new, modern cultural quarter in Bodø. The building is designed to be open towards the city and the harbour, and the white marble is to capture the changing light of the Arctic.

    The interior is bright and airy, and it’s great to sit in the reading room on the first floor and admire the views. The concert hall is not always open to the public, but it is like the library inside.

    Bodø Harbour

    At the ferry pier you can see some lovely old fishing boats, and here you get a true feel for Bodø’s past. This is where you can take tours by boat to Saltstraumen.

    Old Customs House

    The customs house is one of the few buildings to survive the war. It was built in 1912 and was designed with art nouveau influences by Søren Wiese-Opsahl.

    Clarion Hotel Grand Bodø

    This hotel has items and images inside from before World War II. The hotel is a preserved building in post-war architecture. The history of the hotel goes back to 1850, when a hotel was established on this site. The hotel became known for social groups and businesses. The well-known writer Knut Hamsun is among the hotel’s most famous guests; he wrote the book ‘Segelfoss by’ in one of its rooms.

    The Main Square

    This is the main shopping square of Bodø. Here’ll you’ll find some fun places to eat and some great shops as well. You can find restaurant and shopping suggestions on the Bodø travel guide page.

    Norway's Coastal Road

    Bodø is located at the end of the Fv17, which is Norway’s Coastal Road. You can find my guide to the Fv17 by clicking the link below. 

    The Fv17 Highway
    Bodø Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Norway's Coastal Ferry

    Kirkenes is a port of call of Norway’s coastal ferry. Find my guide for the coastal ferry by clicking the link below. 

    Norway's Coastal Ferry
  • Hurtigruten, Sandnessjoen, Walking Guides

    Sandnessjøen Self-Guided Walking Tour

    Sandnessjøen Self-Guided Walk

    Sandnessjøen is a small town located on the Helgeland coast. While many may use Sandnessjøen as a stop on a longer and more scenic road-trip, there are some lovely points of interests to see here. The town was a Viking seat, and the recreated longhouse Torolvstein will tell you all about Sandnessjøen’s most famous Viking. Additionally, the town is seeing growth and renewed interest thanks to the oil industry. So, spend the night in Sandnessjøen and see the town’s highlights on this self-guided walking tour!

    In this article...

    Norway's Coastal Road

    Bodø is located at the end of the Fv17, which is Norway’s Coastal Road. You can find my guide to the Fv17 by clicking the link below. 

    The Fv17 Highway
    Sandnessjøen Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Norway's Coastal Ferry

    Kirkenes is a port of call of Norway’s coastal ferry. Find my guide for the coastal ferry by clicking the link below. 

    Norway's Coastal Ferry

    Sandnessjøen Self-Guided Walk

    Kulturbadet

    The Kulturbadet is the building in Sandnessjøen that has a swimming pool, cinema, library, theatre and concert hall, and meeting rooms. It is a new building from 2016. When the building was being planned, a competition was held for who would be the architect. The L2 Arkitektur firm in Oslo won with their draft called “Sky Blue”.

    Street Art: Future Eyes

    Jort Agoch, Leticia Cascone Ruiz (2016)

    The town has recently been decorated with murals to boost tourism. The murals reflect life in Sandnessjøen. It was designed to liven up the grey buildings, and the artwork is inspired by the local children.

    Torolv Kveldulvsons gate

    The street is named after the famous Viking Torolv Kveldulvsson, who lived in Sandnes. He is known as the first exporter of stockfish from the north. Egil’s saga tells that in the time around 875 “he sent people north to the town of Vagar in Hålogaland (now Vågan) on cod fishing and also went with fish to England”.

    This street has the main shopping mall, Amfi, plus some restaurants and businesses.

    Petter Dass Statue

    Petter Dass (1647 – 1707) was a Lutheran priest and the foremost Norwegian poet of his generation, writing Baroque hymns and poetry. He was appointed the parish priest at Alstahaug Church in 1689. He wrote texts and hymns, but many weren’t published until after his death.

    His most famous work is a topographical description of Northern Norway called “The Trumpet of Nordland”. Some of his psalms are still in use.

    After Petter Dass died, many Norwegian fishing vessels of Northern Norway carried a black cloth on their sail for 100 years as a sign of mourning. He is still a popular subject of folklore in Nordland. For example, there is a legend of how he fooled the devil to carry him to Copenhagen to preach for the king.

    There is only one known portrait of him, but many doubt if it was him. Still, it was used as the basis for this sculpture.

    The Petter Dass Museum is located a short drive from Sandnessjøen.

    The Seven Sisters

    This statue on the side of an otherwise very dull office building symbolises what Sandnessjøen is most famous for: The Seven Sisters. This is a mountain chain with seven peaks, and it’s based off a story of the seven troll sisters who were chased by a very eager male troll. They all turned to stone in the sun, forming the mountains. You will be able to see the Seven Sisters during this walk, but the best views are when you drive out of the town.

    Optional Detour: Sandnessjøen Church

    The earliest existing historical record of the church goes back to the year 1240, when the church was mentioned in a saga. The original church wa slocated about 2km (1.2 mi) southeast of the present church site. In 1644, the old church was torn down and a new church was built on the same site.

    In 1882 the church was torn down and replaced. Some of the materials were used in the new construction.

    TV Tower

    This is the TV-tower in Sandnessjøen. It is often decorated with lights on special occasions, such as new year’s eve and the main festival in Sandnessjøen, Havnafestivalen.

    Fortress & Bunker Area

    There is very little information about the fortress area. It was home to the Artillery Group Sandnessjøen. There were 7 Heeres Küsten Batteries and 3 Marine Artillery Batteries in the group.

    The battery was set up in 1940.

    There are information signs on all the main sights that you can read.

    Torolvstein

    During the Viking Age, this was one of Northern Norway’s largest and most powerful chieftain seats. At this building you can learn about Norwegian Viking History with the key figures from Sandnessjøen, Torolv Kveldulvson and Sigrid of Sandnes. The area around Sandes was one of the best documented areas from the Viking Age.

    The long house was very common in Norway during the Iron Age. They were long houses built to accommodate both housing and livestock. Longhouses throughout the Nordic region are made up of a log system.

    The building is located on almost the same site as the old chieftain seat from 1,000 years ago.

    Enjoy More of Sandnessjøen

    Visit the travel guide page to see road-trips, restaurants, and top activities that you can do. 

    Norway's Coastal Road

    Bodø is located at the end of the Fv17, which is Norway’s Coastal Road. You can find my guide to the Fv17 by clicking the link below. 

    The Fv17 Highway
    Sandnessjøen Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Norway's Coastal Ferry

    Kirkenes is a port of call of Norway’s coastal ferry. Find my guide for the coastal ferry by clicking the link below. 

    Norway's Coastal Ferry
  • Brønnøysund, Central Norway, Road-trips, Sandnessjoen

    Drive it Yourself: The Coastal Road Day 3 – Brønnøysund – Sandnessjøen

    Drive it Yourself: The Coastal Road Day 3 – Brønnøysund – Sandnessjøen

    The Coastal Road that runs from Brønnøysund to Bodø is one of Norway’s 18 national tourist roads. At 433km (269 mi), it is also the longest of all the tourist roads. You can’t do it in one day: some websites will recommend up to a week. In June 2021 Sean (the husband) and I did the coastal road in three days. It definitely felt quick and we couldn’t make all the detours we wanted, but we did it!

    I’ve put together a guide breaking down the coastal road. My guide includes the history & everyday life of the region, plus options for your own customisations.

     

    Kystriksveien vs. Helgelandskysten

    The road has two names, and this can be pretty confusing. Kystriksveien begins in Steinkjer just outside Trondheim and provides more options for detours to the islands.

    On the other hand, Helgelandskysten begins in Holm just south of Brønnøysund, where my guide begins. It features more-so on the one highway, known as the Fv17.

    When driving the road, the brown tourist signs will follow the path of the Helgelandskysten national tourist road, which is on the Fv17. However, you can get a free guide online for the Kystriksveien.

    Both roads end in Bodø.

     

    Highlights of today’s section

    • You will get spectacular views of the Seven Sisters for most of the day
    • You can take a detour to the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Vega Islands
    • Pass historic Tjøtta, known for its old church and connection to Petter Dass.
    • The drive is not long, so you have the afternoon to explore Sandnessjøen

    In this article...

    Download this Guide

    Download this guide to have it as a PDF ready to go for your road-trip!

    All downloadable guides come with an interactive Google Map for easier navigation. 

    View on Store

    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Information about facilities along the way

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the region & towns
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Facilities including supermarkets, toilets, petrol, hotels, cafes, restaurants with addresses.
    • Interactive Google Map for easier navigation

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    Visit Our YouTube Channel

    The drive: Brønnøysund to Sandnessjøen

    Brønnøysund

    Located on the coast and surrounded by islands, Brønnøysund is a fitting place to begin your coastal road-trip. The town (pop. 5,000) has some wonderful hiking trails in the nearby area. You can visit a fish farm at the Norsk Havbruksenter or try some locally grown herbs and wine at Hildurs Urterarium.

    My travel guide for Brønnøysund can be found via the link below.

    Brønnøysund Travel Guide

    Vega Islands

    UNESCO Site/Detour

    The Vega Islands are a collection of small islands on the UNESCO World Heritage list. They are protected due to the unique relationship between the inhabitants and the eider ducks. The collection of eider down has taken place here for thousands of years. If you are visiting in summer, Vega is a great place to visit. They have a visitor centre that does tours in the summer. The ferries don’t run frequently, so you will need to make a whole day out of visiting Vega.

    The ferry to Vega leaves from the same spot where we’ll be taking the ferry to Andalsvågen.


    Click here for more information about the Vega Islands

    Horn - Åndalsvågen

    Ferry

    There are many ferries when doing the coastal road, so they are impossible to ignore. While it may seem daunting at first to take a ferry in Norway, the process is very easy and you’ll be a master of it by the time your drive is over!

    You drive onboard and your e-tag is scanned by a staff member. No need to do anything. The ferry journey takes 20 minutes.


    Ferry overview

    Vevelstad

    Vevelstad is part of the traditional Helgeland region. The municipality gets its name from the old Vevelstad Church. Rock carvings indicate that people have been here since the Stone Age. The main industries are agriculture, fish, fish processing and timber. Agriculture is based on cattle and sheep farming. There are no towns in the municipality, just scattered settlements. The population has declined by 60% ever since the municipality was established in 1916.

    Leknes

    Village

    If you have a bit of time to wait between ferries, there are some fun things to do in Vevelstad:

    • Visit Vevelstad Church: The church is from 1796 and seats about 250 people. When the church was renovated in 1871, many of the original items were sold or disappeared. One of the old bells can be found on a farm in Lofoten!
    • Vevelstad Museum: Behind the church is an open-air museum about the old farming traditions of Vevelstad. Click here to visit their website.
    • Handelstedet Forvik: The old trading place (Handelstedet) has been here for over 200 years, and it is one of Northern Norway’s oldest trading places. There is a lovely café and restaurant inside, and there are even five rooms available for rent. Click here to visit their website. 

    Forvik - Tjøtta

    Ferry

    Welcome to ferry number two! You have to time this one well with the first ferry. We didn’t, and we got stuck in Forvik for almost two hours. There’s no other way out of Forvik, and once you’ve visited everything mentioned above, you’re kinda stuck.

    This ferry takes just under an hour, so it’s a great opportunity to stretch your legs, have a coffee, and admire the views of the Seven Sisters.  Be sure to go and spot them! This is a great way to get a photo of the mountain peaks.


    Ferry overview

    Alstahaug

    Alstahaug is perhaps best known for the mountain chain The Seven Sisters, which is reflected in the coat of arms. The name comes from a farm, close to where the medieval Alstahaug Church is located. There has been a continuous settlement here since the Iron Age, and Alstahaug was a known place during the Viking Age.

    Alstahuag has long traditions in agriculture and aquaculture. There is also some oil industry here.

    Tjøtta

    Village

    As soon as you get off the ferry, you’ll be in the village of Tjøtta. This small community has a ton of history: Tjøtta is mentioned in the Heimskringla (Norse sagas) many times. It was the home of one of the most famous chieftains, Harek of Tjøtta. He was one of the leaders of the peasant army which killed Olav Haraldsson (later St. Olav). There is archaeological evidence of a settlement back to the Iron Age, and Tjøtta farm is the largest medieval farm in Northern Norway.

    Tjøtta International War Cemetery

    Historic Site

    The Tjøtta War Cemetery was established in 1970 as a place to bury victims of a huge tragedy during World War II. The Rigel sunk off the coast of Tjøtta on 27 November 1944. This tragedy killed more than 2,500 Soviet, Polish and Serbian prisoners of war, Norwegian prisoners and German deserters, German soldiers and Norwegian crew members. A total of 8,000 victims are buried here. It was Norway’s largest ship tragedy. The graves are anonymous, but there is a memorial stone here.

    The Seven Sisters

    Mountain Range

    The highlight of this drive is the Seven Sisters mountain, which you will see for most of the drive. But after Tjøtta, you’ll start getting some fantastic views of the mountains.

    The name ‘Seven Sisters’ (Syv søstre) comes from a famous troll legend. The seven sisters were troll sisters who were kept under the strict control of their father, Suliskongen. One night he fell into a deep sleep, and the troll sisters decided to sneak out – as young girls do!

    However, lying in wait was the Vågekallen, a big and powerful troll who was eager for a wife. He began to chase them, hoping to capture one (or more) of them. Eventually other trolls joined the chase, attempting to save the sisters.

    All of them had forgotten that when the sun comes out, they turn to stone. When the morning came, the troll sisters and their pursuers were petrified. They became the mountains that today form the Helgeland Coast. Many of the mountains you’ll pass on this trip are mentioned in this (or a similar) story.

    Hiking the Seven Sisters

    You can hike all the mountains in one day, but it’s only recommended for experienced hikers. The Norwegian Trekking Association estimates that it’ll take 13 hours to do.

    The mountains can be hiked individually, and Stortinden (910m) is considered the easiest one to hike.

    Want to get a good photo? This area is not the best spot. The best thing to do is get on a ferry and head out to an island off the coast of Sandnessjøen. I’ll show you how to do that in this guide 🙂

    Alstahaug Church & the Petter Dass Museum

    Historic Site

    The next stop is Alstahaug Church, perhaps one of the most famous churches in the region. It was built in the 12th or 13th century, and is considered one of the finest medieval churches in Northern Norway.

    Next to the church is a museum dedicated to Petter Dass. This is probably a museum more for Norwegians than visitors, because Petter Dass is well-known in Norway. He was a Lutheran priest and is considered to be the foremost Norwegian poet of his generation. He wrote baroque hymns and poetry about the Helgeland coast, which is famous today. The museum chronicles his life and work.

    Even if you aren’t interested in learning about Petter Dass, I recommend stopping to admire the beautiful Alstahaug Church, where he worked.

    Søvik - Herøy

    Ferry

    Another ferry! This ferry pier has many different ferries coming in and out, so make sure you are taking the one to Herøy – it’s often the biggest line. The ferry takes about 25 minutes and has some lovely views out to the Seven Sisters.


    Timetable (PDF)

    Herøy Municipality

    Welcome to the islands! You are in the municipality of Herøy, and there are about 1,700 islands here. The population here is 1,777. Likely due to the industrial activity here, the population has increased by 9.8% over the last 10 years.

    Herøy has a population of 1,777.

    The main industries are fishing, fish farming, and processing activities associated with this. Other important industries are agriculture (mostly sheep), transportation, services industries and tourism. Tourism is especially rising in Herøy, mostly due to its proximity to the Coastal Road. Also, the growth in popularity of the Vega Islands, which are close by, has contributed to Herøy’s growth. Herøy also has the best view out to the Seven Sisters, so a lot of people come here just to get a good photo.

    There is only one school here, and it is for primary and junior high. All upper secondary school students must commute to Sandnessjøen to attend school.

    There are many outdoor activities in Herøy, and the area has even been featured on national television to promote its kayaking. The roads here are also ideal for cyclists. There are many great walks on the mountains.

    There has been a lot of discussion about a bridge to the mainland – the two municipalities on the islands (Herøy and Dønna) are the largest in Norway without a connection to the mainland. Bridges and tunnels have been discussed many times, and it will likely be an underwater tunnel that’s built. However, it will take around 30 years to see it completed.

     

    Herøy Church

    Church

    The oldest church on the island is Herøy Church, which is from the 12th century. It’s located on the main road very close to the Herøy pier. The building has undergone serious changes since its construction, and now most of the church is built in stone.

    Dønna Municipality

    Dønna and Herøy are connected via the Åkviksundet Bridge, making Dønna a separate island. Dønna is made up of a large archipelago consisting of islands, islets and reefs. The population has decreased here by 4.2% over the last 10 years. The name comes from the farm Dønnes, and it means ‘rumble’ or ‘roar’ (probably referring to the swell of the waves). Much of the industry here focuses on fishing, aquaculture, and fish processing.

    The area is very historic, especially around Dønnes Farm. There are burial grounds from the Iron Age and Roman Iron Age. Northern Europe’s largest phallus is also located here, which is a fun little fact! It’s to honour the Norse gods Njord and Nerthus and is believed to be 1,600 years old. There are also burial mounds from the Viking Age.

    Many known people are from Dønna, including Gjeble Pederssøn (1490-1557), the first Lutheran Bishop in Norway and Petter Dass, whose museum we visited earlier.

    Dønna - Sandnessjøen

    Ferry

    Our last ferry of the day takes us to Sandnessjøen city centre, where this driving guide ends!

    You can view all my information about Sandnessjøen below.


    Timetable (PDF)

    Sandnessjøen

    You have made it to Sandnessjøen! This is a great place to spend the night as there are decent accommodation options, places to walk and things to see.

    You can find all my information for Sandnessjøen on my travel guide page. 

    Sandnesjøen Travel Guide

    Continue the drive

    Norway's Coastal Road Part 4: Sandnessjøen to Forøy

    See the next part of Norway’s Coastal Road.

    Sandnessjøen to Forøy

    Previous Route

    Norway's Coastal Road Part 2: Namsos to Brønnøysund

    Explore the rugged central Norwegian coast!

    Trondheim to Namsos

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Oslo, Oslo & the East, Walking Guides

    Exploring Oslo’s Old City Christiania: Self-Guided Walking Tour

    Self-Guided Walk: Christiania in Oslo

    Christiania was the name of Oslo between 1624 and 1925. The name came from King Christian IV, who made the big decision after a fire in 1622 to move the whole city from its original location to be close to the Akershus Fortress. He laid the city out in a grid pattern (the area is called Kvadraturen, which refers to the grid layout), and designated certain blocks for certain purposes. And so, Christiania was built.

    Many of the original buildings are now gone, but some still stand, albeit many are heavily renovated. Still, Christiania is a fascinating place to walk through and learn about how the old city of Oslo functioned.

    On this self-guided walk, I’ll show you the buildings still standing, the story behind them, and try to give you an idea of what Christiania used to be.

    A Brief History of Christiania

    Christiania was established as a replacement of the old city of Oslo in 1624, after a huge fire had swept through the original city. Oslo stood a few kilometres to the east, but King Christian IV wanted the city to be closer to the Akershus Fortress. The ruins of the old city still stand at the suburb called ‘Gamle Oslo’.

    The streets were built very wide, and the city was surrounded by ramparts to better protect itself. Additionally, all the houses were to be built in brick as a modern fire measure. However, most people were still too poor to build in brick, so wooden houses or half timber houses were constructed. The plots of land within Christiania were distributed to the citizens free of charge, but were allocated according to wealth and status.

    The walled city of Christiania didn’t last long: after a fire in the 1680s the ramparts were no longer used and the city began to see unregulated expansion outside the walls. The city’s population rose steeply after the union with Denmark ended, and more modern buildings were built in Christiania to show off the city as a capital, including the palace, parliament and university.

    By the early 20th century, the area of the original Christiania was a quiet business activity and no longer the centre of the city. In 1925, the city got its original name of Oslo back. Today, Christiania is distinctive on all maps of Oslo thanks to its grid pattern. It’s known as ‘Kvadraturen’ on maps, which refers to the grid pattern.

    Oslo Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    In this article...

    Downloadable Version of This Guide

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided walks on our online store. 

    View at the Store

    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Information about facilities along the way

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the region & towns
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Facilities including supermarkets, toilets, petrol, hotels, cafes, restaurants with addresses.

    The online guide is a summarised version of the downloadable guide. Some points of interest are only included in the downloadable guide. 

    Christiania Self-Guided Walk

    Christiania Torv

    This is the centre of the old town of Christiania. When Christiania was completed, the Holy Trinity Church stood on this site. It was the first public building to be completed in the old town, and by it would’ve been the market. The market was used on Wednesdays and Saturdays, and farmers would gather to sell their goods. The annual winter market in the first few days of February was also held here. Farmers came from all over Eastern Norway with butter, hides and venison. In the square was also the gauntlet and a ‘kag’ – a cane with a neck iron. Here the criminals were whipped and shamed.

    The Holy Trinity Church used to stand here. It was a Renaissance building with four clocks and a richly decorated interior. Sadly, the church wasn’t even completed before it was struck by lightning in 1686. The bells of the church melted, and the nave was ignited. The fire destroyed about a third of Christiania, the northernmost part – which was the poorest area and mostly wooden houses – being the worst affected.

    The church wasn’t destroyed during the fire, but it was decided to tear it down anyway because Akershus Fortress wanted an open field in the area and the church was blocking the firing range of the fortress. The Holy Trinity Church was demolished, and the site was left unused. What survived of the church was moved to the Oslo Cathedral when it was completed.

    Christian IV's Glove

    The statue in the middle of the square is called Christian IV’s glove and is by Wenche Gulbransen. It’s supposed to represent Christian’s decision to move the city here.

    Anatomigården

    This is one of the few remaining half-timbered houses in Christiania. The exact age of the property is unknown, but it is believed to be from the early 1700s. The name Anatomigården refers to the fact that the Faculty of Medicine had its anatomical hall here.

    Rådmannsgården

    This is one of the oldest buildings in Oslo and the best-preserved building in Christiania. It was likely built around 1626 in a Dutch/Danish Renaissance style. It used to be much larger but has undergone many changes over the years. The building was built for councillor (rådmann in Norwegian) Lauritz Hansen. Today there is a restaurant inside.

    Gamle Rådhus

    This is Christiania’s first town hall (Rådhus in Norwegian). The building dates to 1641, though it has undergone many changes over the years. For example, it used to have a tower, but it was torn down in the 1700s. The original Renaissance gables are also gone.

    In Christiania, the town hall functioned as both a meeting place for councillors but also a gathering place for the towns bourgeoise. Kristiania was ruled by two mayors and 12 councillors appointed by the sheriff of Akershus Fortress. In the cellars were a detention room and a prison for convicted criminals.

    The building was in bad condition throughout the 18th and 19th centuries, and over those years it was a Masonic Lodge. In 1983, it became a restaurant called “Det Gamle Raadhus”.

    Revierstredet

    The name comes from Revieret, a canal that was excavated in the area in the 17th century.

    The dark brown building that you’ll follow along Revierstredet and then later onto Kongens gate is the oldest building you’ll see on this street. It was built in 1638 for a town bailiff and eventually became an orphanage. While it was an orphanage, 50 kids would be here. The women had to do yarn spinning, while the boys did carpentry. On the side, you can see the initials MHS and UMB, who were for the original owner’s Mads Haraldssøn and Annichen Mecklenburg. Parts of the property are among the first to be built in Christiania when the city was founded. The stone tablets in the wing towards Nedre Slottsgate indicate the building is from 1638, and according to the city antiquary in Oslo, this is Oslo’s oldest known building. There are traces of an even older building on the plot. The date 1640 on it is likely from an extension.

    Bankplassen

    The square comes from Norges Bank, which was built here in 1828. It is now used by the Museum of Architecture. You pass it on your right as you head into Bankplassen.

    The square was renovated in 2016 for Norge Banks 200th anniversary. The square got new light poles using historic luminaires.

    The Christiania Theatre was located on Bankplassen from 1837 to 1899. Cafe Engelbret quickly became a permanent place for many artists. The theatre was torn down to make way for Norges Bank, whose new building opened in 1900.

    You can see Cafe Engelbret at the other end of the square.

     

    Cafe Engebret

    The restaurant is named after the founder Engebret Christoffersen, who started the restaurant in 1857. It moved here in 1863 and has undergone very few changes. The building is from 1760.

    The Engebret Movement, a network of female journalists in Oslo, took their name from the place. They existed for 10 years and the goal was to promote female journalists in the business. The network worked for gender equality through the Norwegian Journalists Association. They wanted equal pay and better working conditions.

    Café Engebret was popular for many artists because the old Christiania Theatre was located here from 1837 to 1899. Engebret became a permanent place for many artists. The theatre was torn down to make way for the second Norges bank building, which opened in 1900.

    Kongens gate

    This is one of the original streets of Christiania, laid out in 1624. If you turn right instead of left, you’ll see the road leads to the fortress. Most of the part we are walking through has been rebuilt over the years, with the buildings here from 1638.

    Kongens gate 6 is from 1915. It is considered Norway’s first modern business building.

    Tollbugata 19

    Head into Tollbugata to look at building number 19.

    This building is a small apartment building from 1687, though it has some parts on it that are older. The irons on the side of the building are beautifully decorated.

    Prinsens gate 18

    You’ve now made it to the north of Kvadraturen. On your right is a white building – this is Prinsens gate 18. It is the oldest house on Prinsens gate. It is from 1640 and was originally one floor but was later extended to two floors. Andreas Tofte, who was Oslo’s first mayor (1837-38), lived and ran a business here from 1824 to 1848.

    In 1989, the property was severely damaged after a pyromaniac lit the building. The owner chose to restore the building, but it was upgraded to today’s standards. During the work, ceiling decorations from the 17th century were uncovered and restored

    Prinsens gate

    Prinsens gate is a 600m long street that runs through Kvadraturen. The street is mostly modern office buildings. Most were replaced after a large fire in 1858 destroyed 40 buildings. The buildings were rebuilt with businesses in mind, mostly because by this point fewer people were living in Kvadraturen. Historically, there were several pubs here and the street was very well known for its social activities. Halvorsen’s patisserie on Wessels plass has been running in the same place since 1881.

    Kirkegata

    The street, which means “Church Street”, runs from Bankplassen to Stortorvet, where Oslo Cathedral is today. It was originally called Prindsens gang and got its current name when Oslo Cathedral was completed. Originally this was a street for the rich, but after the fire of 1858 many properties were rebuilt for businesses. In the 19th century, this was the city’s main thoroughfare.

    Rådhusgata 11 / Statholdergården

    You’ve now made it to the north of Kvadraturen. On your right is a white building – this is Prinsens gate 18. It is the oldest house on Prinsens gate. It is from 1640 and was originally one floor but was later extended to two floors. Andreas Tofte, who was Oslo’s first mayor (1837-38), lived and ran a business here from 1824 to 1848.

    In 1989, the property was severely damaged after a pyromaniac lit the building. The owner chose to restore the building, but it was upgraded to today’s standards. During the work, ceiling decorations from the 17th century were uncovered and restored.

    Rådhusgata 10, 12, 14

    This building was originally three small properties that were constructed at the end of the 1620s. They have all undergone changes through the years – they were last restored in 1980 and incorporated into Norges Bank.

    Grev Wedels Plass

    This is a lovely park that was laid out in 1869. The name comes from Herman Wedel-Jarlsberg (1779-1840), who was the president of the Storting (parliament), an ironworks owner, county governor, and finance minister.

    After Akershus was closed as an active fortress in 1818, the area was turned into a government quarter. The Parliament and the Supreme Court were initially going to stand here, but it was banned by military authorities in 1836. The Park opened instead in the 1860s and quickly developed a bad reputation for hosting illegal activities. In the 1930s, it was paved over and turned into a car park. During World War II, the square was used for barracks and shelters. In 1988, the park was reconstructed and reopened.

    The red building to your left is from 1840. The white building across the street and to the right is the Army Depot, a warehouse building designed in Empire Style from 1828. Further down is an orange building – this is Ridehuset. It was originally a stable but opened in 2007 as a concert venue. There’s an entrance to Akershus Fortress by Ridehuset.

    Gamle Logen

    The building on the opposite end is Gamle Logen. It was built in 1839 as a Masonic Lodge and banquet hall. Several events have been held in this building, such as a special dinner for Fridtjof Nansen and his crew after their first Fram trip. Until World War II, it was also a popular concert venue. Edvard Grieg (there’s a bust of him outside), Ole Bull, Johan Svensen and Halfdan Kierulf have performed here. After World War II, the building was used as the Court of Appeal, and this is where Vidkun Quisling was sentenced to death on the 10th of September 1945. It was also used as a canteen by Oslo’s dock workers. After extensive rehabilitation, it reopened in 1988 as a concert and cultural venue.

    Military Hospital

    Now you can see the Military Hospital. It is a beautiful wooden building from 1807 and was originally built as a hospital for soldiers. As Denmark-Norway was heading into the Napoleonic Wars, a new hospital was needed. After Norway became Swedish in 1814, it was a general hospital for the public, which it remained until 1883. It was then dismantled and taken to the Norwegian Folk Museum, where it sat in storage until 1983. Now it’s back at its original spot.

    Garmanngården

    At the corner of Rådhusgata and Dronningens gate is a beautiful red home. It is Garmanngarden, one of the city’s oldest standing buildings. Parts of the building are from 1622 (before Oslo burned in 1624), though most of the building is from 1625-1630. The anchors on the building have the date 1647, which is probably when the building got its current appearance. For its first 100 hours, the building was the residence of important men in Oslo, such as Land Commissioner Johan Garmann (where the property got its name from) and Governor Just Høeg.

    The building was given to the city by King Chrisitan VI as the new town hall in 1734. It was also used as a courtroom, a meeting room for the magistrate, a theatre, concert and party room. There was also a police station, detention facilities and a prison.

    Today the building is used by the Society for Oslo Byes Vel, which is a historical association that promotes the city’s history. All those blue signs on old buildings are managed by Oslo Byes Vel.

    The War School

    This building was established in 1804 to train officers for the Norwegian army. The students received a five-year education. Most of the cadets were listed, and the majority were the sons of officers. The school provided insight into military technology, general education, physical education, and military education. This is one of the world’s oldest military academies that has been in continuous education.

    Posthallen

    Across the street is ‘Posthallen’. It was built between 1914 and 1924 as Oslo’s main post office. Today the building is used as shops and apartments – the post office moved to a different building in 2004.

     

    Pascal Patisserie

    Diagonally across from the Military School is Pascal Patisserie, a very famous place for sweet treats. There has been a patisserie here since 1650. Sadly, the original building burned down and wasn’t rebuilt until 1870. The interior is left fully untouched from 1895.

    The current owner is the ninth owner of the patisserie. It is Pascal Dupuy, a French pastry chef who came to Norway in the 1980s and opened his patisserie in this building in 1995. Pascal Dupuy has gained international recognition for his products, and he is considered one of the world’s best confectioners. He even has a show on Norwegian television that follows him educating his staff and creating unique pieces for special events.

    There are multiple Pascal patisseries around Oslo, but this one is the one to visit. They serve French-inspired lunch dishes plus many good desserts. You can also admire the original interior, the glass roof, and a fresco painted by Åsmund Stray in 1895.

    Treschowgården

    This building was built for Gerhard Treschow, an immigrant from Denmark who became the customs officer in 1683. He ended up becoming one of the city’s largest factory owners with sawmills, brickworks, a paper mill, oil mill, and soap factory. He bought the property in 1710. For a while, it was the Cathedral School, and then it was a hotel. Today it is an office building for the Fred Olsen shipping company.

    Oslo Stock Exchange

    This building was built for Gerhard Treschow, an immigrant from Denmark who became the customs officer in 1683. He ended up becoming one of the city’s largest factory owners with sawmills, brickworks, a paper mill, oil mill, and soap factory. He bought the property in 1710. For a while, it was the Cathedral School, and then it was a hotel. Today it is an office building for the Fred Olsen shipping company.

    Customs Office

    This is the customs house. There have been five customs houses on this site – the first one was built by Gerhard Treschow in the 1680s, but it was replaced by the next customs officer, Frantz Jørgensen. He wanted his own customs house, so had it designed to his taste. The site used to be on the pier, but it was filled in 1957-1960.

    Frantz’s customs house was so rotten by 1770 that it was torn down and replaced. However, in 1785 a huge fire destroyed the pier area, customs house included. In 1790 mason and architect Hans Christian Lind built a new customs house, now number 4. It was torn down and replaced in 1895. That building is the one we see today.

    Customs Warehouse

    This is a customs warehouse from 1915. Behind is the Tollpakkhuset, a customs warehouse from 1915. It now houses the Norwegian Customs Museum. The museum has all the uniforms spanning 350 years, plus all the stuff people tried to smuggle into Norway – this alone makes for a very entertaining visit.

    Oslo Opera House

    You’ve now reached the library/Oslo Opera House area, with the Central Station on your left. I hope you enjoyed this walk around Christiania!

    Enjoy More of Oslo

    Visit the travel guide page to see road-trips, restaurants, and top activities that you can do. 

    Oslo Travel Guide
  • Central Norway, Namsos, Norway's Coastal Road, Road-trips, Trondheim

    Drive it Yourself: Trondheim to Namsos on the E6

    Drive it Yourself: Trondheim to Namsos on the E6

    Welcome to my guide for the drive between Trondheim and Namsos. This drive primarily takes place on the European Highway 6, which runs practically the entire length of Norway. It is also partly the beginning of Norway’s coastal road (Kystriksveien), a famous scenic drive along a huge part of the coastline.

    While this drive may at first seem a little dull, there’s a lot of interesting places to visit along the way. There are sites that are important to Norway’s early Christianity years – Stiklestad, Munkeby Abbey. There are also historically significant places, such as Falstad ant Steinviksholm. Each place is a short detour off the E6 and a great way to break up the drive.

    Enjoy my guide to driving on the E6 (and Fv17) between Trondheim and Namsos!

    In this article...

    Download this Guide

    All of our guides can be downloaded via our online store. 

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

    View on Store

    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Information about facilities along the way

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the region & towns
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Facilities including supermarkets, toilets, petrol, hotels, cafes, restaurants with addresses.

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    Visit Our YouTube Channel

    The Drive: Trondheim to Namsos

    Trondheim

    This drive begins in historic Trondheim. You can easily spend a few days here – read my travel guide for more information. 

    Trondheim Travel Guide

    Hell Train Station

    Station

    For a fun photo stop, visit Hell train station just next to the Trondheim Airport. Hell in Norwegian means ‘luck’, but for us non-Norwegians, it’s kinda funny.

    Skatval Church

    Church

    You’ll see Skatval Church on the right-hand side as you leave the Trondheim Airport area. This is a beautiful church in the Swiss chalet style, which is fairly unique for churches in Norway.

    The church is from 1901 and seats about 440 people. The site has been used for churches for hundreds of years, and the first church on this site was possibly a stave church, but little is known about it. Another church was established here in the 17th century, and it survived until 1767, when it was torn down and replaced. In 1901, the church was replaced with a larger church.

    Steinviksholmen Castle

    Historic Site

    How to get here:

    Steinviksholmen is clearly marked on Google Maps. It’s just off the E6 and marked with brown tourist signs the entire way. It’s about 10-15 minutes off the E6.

    The road is very narrow, and you’ll have to watch out for traffic coming the other way.

    —–

    Steinvikholmen Castle is a 16th century castle constructed by Norway’s last Roman Catholic Bishop, Olav Engelbrektsson. After meeting with the Pope, Olav’s resistance to the Danish rule and the Reformation escalated. Steinvikholm was built as the Catholic churches military stronghold. The castle was finished in 1532, but sadly for Olav the Reformation succeeded in 1537 and Olav was forced to flee to Lier. It was the last Catholic stronghold in Norway. When Olav fled, he left Saint Olav’s shrine and other treasures, and they were returned to Nidaros Cathedral in 1568.

    After the Reformation, the site was used as a quarry and some of its masonry was sold off. Since the late 19th century, the site has been owned and operated by the Past Memory Association (Fortidsminneforeningen). It is used as concert hall for a midnight opera, Olav Engelbrektsson, which details the life and struggles of the archbishop. The opera takes place annually.

    Steinvikholm Castle is Norway’s largest structure from the Middle Ages.

    In summer, it is open as a museum. There are also photographs and information boards (Norwegian and English) around the site. You can walk around the fortress for free, but the interior is what costs money. When we visited, we saw lots of kids swimming in the water around the fortress.

    You park on the mainland and pay a small fee (they use Vipps to accept parking payment), and then walk across the bridge (photographed) to the castle. The entrance is on the other side from my photos.

    Even if you aren’t interested in the castle, the surrounding scenery is gorgeous.

    Levanger Municipality

    Levanger is a very old region, and it’s possibly a settlement from the Iron Age. Levanger is known from the Viking Age, as it is mentioned in the old sagas when it was ruled by a chieftain. Evidence of the Viking Age is found around the municipality in the form of burial mounds. The one by Alstadhaug Church, called Alvshaugen, is from 300-600 CE.

    Historically, Levanger was an important marketplace between Norway and Sweden. The town was ‘founded’ by King Charles XIV of Sweden on 18 May 1836, but there was an already well-established village. The market had been taking place there since the 13th century.

    Throughout the 19th century, the famous market’s economic importance faced, and it became more of a tradition than a viable market. When Norway was occupied during World War II, the German forces put a stop to the market. It was not until 1989 that the market was resumed, and it still takes place today. Still, it’s not important as it was pre-19th century.

    Today Levanger is also a working municipality. The world’s largest paper producing company, Norske Skog, had its first ever factory in Skogn. The factory is still there today and provides 530 jobs at the plant, plus 1900 jobs in transportation and forestry. Additionally, Levanger is an excellent area for agrictulture. The town has a hospital and a branch of Nord University.

    If you are looking for a place to visit, I recommend going to Alstahaug medieval church to see both the church and the Alvshaugen burial mound. If you want to go for a nice walk, consider visiting the Munkeby Abbey ruins and the Viking Age gravemounds at Gjeite. As you can see, there’s a lot to do here!

    We visit the Falstad concentration camp on this drive, but on the map I’ve included the above attractions.

    Vuddu Valley

    Restaurant

    Vuddu Valley is a unique place to stop for a meal. It’s completely inspired by the 1960s U.S. diners. The Norwegian owners bought a blue pickup truck in North Carolina, and it has served as inspiration for their diner. Additionally, they have a small museum with items mostly from the 1950s and 1960s.

    Click here to visit their website. 

    Frostatinget

    Historic Site

    This was an early Norwegian court that made up one of the four major “things” in Norway. It is arguably Norway’s oldest court, predating the Viking period. This is where chieftains would meet to discuss laws and events. The site has a huge stone marker on it.

    Falstad Centre

    Historic Site

    In the video, I go to Falstad concentration camp. It’s one of the most complete camps left in Norway, and today it is a memorial and information centre.

    I’ve written a separate article about Falstad Centre, which you can view via the button below.

    Falstad Centre

    Levanger

    Town

    Shortly after the Falstad Centre, we pass turn-offs to Levanger. If you want to visit the main street, just follow signs towards Levanger. I mentioned the history of Levanger town centre in the section about Levanger municipality.

    Munkeby Abbey Ruins

    Historic Site

    Just after Levanger town is the turn-off to the ruins of Munkeby Abbey. It’s just a short drive from the E6, and is a nice area to go to stretch your legs.

    The Munkeby Abbey was founded some time between 1150 and 1180 and it was the most northly Cistercian foundation in the world. It was likely built by English monks. The monastery was eventually closed down, though the church was used until 1587.

    Verdal Municipality

    People have lived at Verdal since the Stone Age, and there are farms in the region that are mentioned as far back as the 12th century. The municipality is best known for the site Stiklestad, where we are heading to next.

    A unique word to learn for this area is råning. It refers to all the young people here who are interested in cars. They spend a lot of their time improving or styling their cars and then driving them on a particular route to show them off.

    The economy here is supported by the offshore industry as well as agriculture. Verdal is also known as one of the greatest lottery towns of Norway, with several lottery grand prizes going to people living in Verdal.

    Stikelstad

    Historic Site

    Stiklestad is one of the most important religious sites in the country. It is where, in 1030, St. Olav fell in battle during the Battle of Stiklestad. His sainthood arose from this death.

    Today Stiklestad feels like a bit of a tourist trap – they’ve built up all these new centres, exhibitions and hotels in the last 20 years – but there’s still historical interest in visiting here.

    You can read my separate guide to Stiklestad below.

    Stiklestad

    Inderøy Municipality

    Inderøy is an agricultural municipality located in North Trøndelag. The municipality has been inhabited since the Middle Ages, and the village of Sakshaug used to be an important political centre. It is home to one of the oldest churches in the area, Old Sakshaug Church, from 1184.

    The coat-of-arms shows the European plaice. The fish was once plentiful int he waters and was one of the main sources of income in the area until around 1940. Fishing is still important to the region. Farming is also very important to the area, and most of the municipality is cultivated. Grass and grain are the most common crops, but strawberries are also common. Most farmers have their own forest, too.

    The population density is 19.4 inhabitants per sq km (50/sq mi). The population has increased by 15.9% over the last 10 years.

    One of the most prominent 20th century Norwegian sculptors, Nils Aas, is from this area.

    Old Sakshaug Church

    Church

    The church is about 12 minutes off the E6, and it’s in the middle of Sakshaug village. Old Sakshaug church was built between 1150 and 1180, and it is one of the oldest churches in Trøndelag county. The choir is the oldest part of the building. The choir was ‘modernised’ with Gothic details in the 1200s.

    Steinkjer Municipality

    Steinkjer is one of the larger municipalities in the region, though its population density is very low, with just 12.6 inhabitants per sq km (33 sq mi). The population has increased by 2.4% over the last 10 years. The coat-of-arms shows a verranjekt, a type of boat that is very common in the area. It’s a new coat-of-arms from 2020.

    The area around Steinkjer is historic – it has been populated since the Stone Age. Rock carvings can be seen in the area, and the oldest are 6,000 years old. During the Viking Age, Steinkjer was an important base and Maere was one of the best known religious places with sacrifices and gatherings before Christianity came to the country.

    The town of Steinkjer was sadly bombed during World War II. The attack destroyed a large part of Steinkjer, and many priceless historic buildings, including the church, were lost. The town was quickly rebuilt after the war with the help of aid from the United States. Much of the architecture found in Steinkjer is from the 1950s and 1960s and is inspired by functionalism. One of the few buildings to survive the bombing is the train station, which is designed in art nouveau.

    Steinkjer is one of the northernmost areas with rich agriculture, allowing large production of grain. You’ll notice as you drive through just how important grain production is to the area. Tall grain silos can be seen all over the landscape.

    The oldest church in the area is Maere Church. It’s just a few minutes off the E6, so we visit it.

    Mære Church

    Historic Site

    In the early Viking Age, according to the Sagas, Mære was one of the most important religious ceremonial places, with sacrifices to the Norse gods.

    The stone church was built in a long church style during the 12th century by an unknown architect. It’s noted for its medieval roof featuring the carvings of heads projecting form the top of its walls. Coins dating from the reign of King Sverre (1183-1202) have been found during excavations.

    Under the church are traces of the ‘hof’ (pagan worshipping site) that used to be on the side. It was uncovered during the 1950s and is the only case in Norway of a pre-Christian building being found to have existed on the site of a church. The nature of that structure was not clear.

    The church is just a few minutes off the E6. There is a huge parking lot outside the agricultural school, but you can also park by the church.

    Namsos

    You have arrived at our final stop, Namsos. From here, you can access Norway’s famous Coastal Road. 

    Namsos Travel Guide

    Continue the drive

    Norway's Coastal Road Part 3: Brønnøysund to Sandnessjøen

    See the first part of Norway’s Coastal Road.

    Brønnøysund to Sandnessjøen

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Central Norway, History, Trondheim

    Finding St. Olav at Stiklestad, an Important Christian Site in Norway

    Finding St. Olav at Stiklestad, an Important Christian Site in Norway

    If you’re in Trondheim or driving around it, one of the places you can visit nearby is Stiklestad. Stiklestad is a small agricultural village with a big story: it was the site of the most famous battle in Norwegian history. The Battle of Stiklestad is when Norway’s Saint Olav was killed in battle in 1030.
    Today Stiklestad is not so much a town as it is a huge shrine to St. Olav. Even if you aren’t religious or even know who St. Olav was, there’s something fascinating about this place. It’s basically an open field full of monuments, churches and chapels, plus some places designed to bring in tourist dollars.
    I visited Stiklestad this year while driving from Trondheim to Namsos. I must admit I was a little disappointed; I felt the attractions (most of which were built in the last 20 years) were too focused on kids on summer holidays. Still, I love Norwegian history and wanted to visit.
    Here’s my overview of Stiklestad.

    In this article...

    The E6 Highway

    The Falstad Centre is located on the E6, Norway’s main highway. You can find my guide to the E6 by clicking the link below. 

    The E6 Highway
    Trondheim Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    History of Olav & Stiklestad

    Who was Saint Olav?

    Olav (or Olaf, depending on where in the world you are) was not born into the sainthood life, the sainthood life chose him. He was born around 995 as the son of a petty king in Vestfold, though he was the great-great-grandchild of Harald Fairhair, Norway’s first king. He was raised in England, where he became influenced by Catholicism. He decided to return to his home country and try to convert the people, who were mostly pagan at the time. Additionally, Olav saw it as his calling to unite Norway as one country. In 1015, Olav returned to Norway and declared himself king. At the time, Norway was divided into petty kingdoms. Olav was able to get five of them on his side, mostly in the south.
    Olav is widely accredited with Christianising Norway, though some historians debate the influence he had. What many historians do agree on is that Olav was particularly violent in the ways he Christianised the people: he would travel to the small villages and tell them to become Christian, or he’d kill them. Many stave churches were erected during this time to appease Olav. It’s believed Olav used Christianity as a means to get control over Norway.
    Olav was known as a strong fighter, and during his time as the Norwegian king, he took part in several battles around the North and Baltic Seas. In these battles, he succeeded, asserting his suzerainty in the Orkney Islands, raiding Denmark, and making peace with Sweden. His success was short-lived, though. In 1029, the Norwegian nobles were tired of Olav and supported the invasion of King Cnut the Great in Denmark. Olav was driven to exile in Russia. He returned to Norway in 1029 but fell at the Battle of Stikelstad in 1030. King Cnut ruled Norway for five years after the battle, but their regency was unpopular and Olav’s illegitimate son Magnus (the Good) lay claim to the Norwegian throne.

    The Battle of Stiklestad

    The Battle of Stiklestad is one of the most famous battles in Norwegian history. This is the battle where Olav died. Now, the authenticity of the battle as a historical event is subject to question. There are differing stories about Olav’s death, but for argument’s sake, we will use the most commonly told story.
    As mentioned above, Olav returned to Norway after a short stint in exile in 1029. Olav and his 3,600 men travelled through Sweden before arriving at Stikelstad, a small farm in the lower part of the valley Verdal. When at Stiklestad, Olav and his men met an army led by Harek of Tjøtta and some men who had previously served Olav. The men were tired of the king’s brutal methods in converting the people to Christianity. There are conflicting stories as to who killed Olav – either it was his own, some men in an ambush, or a cowardly assault by strangers. However, this battle would cause Olav’s death.
    According to the sagas, Olav received three severe wounds – in the knee, neck, and finally, a spear through his stomach. This battle took place on the 29th of July, a day now full of festivities in Stiklestad.
    After his death, his body was laid in a sandy bank in Trondheim. According to the sagas, a farmer from Stiklestad buried the body here. The following year the grave was taken up ad given a new grave outside St. Clements Church. Shortly after, the coffin was again moved into the church that would eventually become Nidaros Cathedral. It’s written that Olav’s body was intact, sweet-scented and with hair and nails having grown since his death. A well close to where his body lay was believed to have healing powers. Olav was canonised on the 3rd of August 1031 by Bishop Grimkjell in Norway. In 1164, Pope Alexander III declared Olav a saint.
    There is little historical connection between the battle and the Christianisation of Norway, but the battle is still considered an important part of Christianity in Norway.

    Shrines & Sainthood

    After Olav became a saint, a cult around Olav was quickly formed, and it is widely accredited for unifying the country. In that sense, Olav was successful in unifying Norway – it was just after his death.
    Olav’s shrine at Nidaros quickly became an important pilgrimage site, and it is first mentioned in history in 1070. By this time, he was already referred to as Norway’s eternal king. The shrine was the resting place for his remains and it sat behind the high altar in Nidaros Cathedral in Trondheim.
    There were three shrines to Olav. The first was the original wooden coffin from Stiklestad, covered by an expensive cloth. The second was a costly shrine that was made by King Magnus Olavsson, Olav’s son. The third shrine was covered in silver and covered the other two shrines. Olav’s shrine is no more, though. After the Reformation, the shrine was taken out of Nidaros Cathedral. It’s believed to have been lost on a shipwreck on the Trondheim Fjord on its way to Copenhagen. All valuables from Nidaros were smashed and taken to Copenhagen for melting. From the shrine holding Olav came 2.6kg of silver and several gold plates. Denmark has never paid any compensation to Norway for the destruction of St. Olav’s Shrine and the theft of silver and jewels.
    It’s believed that the original wooden coffin was kept and buried at Steinvikholm when the Archbishop was fleeing during the Reformation. However, 24 years after the Reformation was the Nordic Seven-Year War, and the Swedes occupied the area. They moved the wooden coffin to Fløan Chapel and then to Nidaros Cathedral. They put it back under the cathedral, but the exact location is unknown. Later on, when the area was back under Danish control, the Danish minister let “earth fill the grave of St. Olav’s body” to put an end to the pilgrimages. Many historians have tried to find the coffin but have been unsuccessful. There are many medieval graves in Nidaros, and historians think it’s one of them.

    Olav Around Europe

    Olav became very popular in Scandinavia, and many churches in Sweden, Iceland, and Norway are dedicated to him. His presence was even felt in Finland and many travelled to visit his shrine. It is possible still today to do the Pilgrims Way (Pilegrimsleden) from Oslo to Nidaros Cathedral. The journey is 640km and is done by hundreds of people each year.

    Apart from the early traces of a cult in England, there are only scattered references to him outside the Nordic area. Several churches in England were dedicated to him, including St. Olave’s Church in York, St. Olave Hart Street in the City of London, and St. Olave’s Church south of the London Bridge.

    Places with References to Olav

    • The basilica of the Sant’Ambrogio e Carlo al Corso in Rome has a chapel of St. Olav
    • In Germany, there used to be a shrine of St. Olav in Koblenz
    • In the Faroe Islands, the day of St. Olav’s death is a national holiday
    • The town of Ulvila in Finland uses St. Olav on their coat of arms
    • Normandy uses Saint Olav as an important figure and was chosen unofficially as the patron saint of the Normans. The normand flag has been called the St. Olav Cross.
    • A bone from St. Olav’s arm is kept as a relic in the crypt of the Rouen Cathedral.
    • Olav’s Chapel in Covarrubias, Spain
    • Olaf’s Church is the tallest church in Tallinn, Estonia. There are many churches named after St. Olav in Estonia
    • Saint Olaf Catholic church in Minneapolis. There are multiple St. Olav churches in North America
    • The oldest picture of St. Olav is painted on a column in the Church of the Nativity in Bethlehem
    • Olaf street in Lerwick, Scotland

    Stiklestad: What you can see and do

    The village of Stikelstad

    Stiklestad is a very small village that has primarily been used for agriculture since it was settled.
    Due to its association with Norwegian cultural history, between 1934 and 1944 Vidkun Quisling’s Nationalist Nasjonal Samling party held several rallies at Stiklestad in an attempt to link the party of Norway’s historic part. A special Nasjonal Samling monument was erected there in July 1944 but was demolished after the war.
    Click here to see a photo of the monument. 

    Stiklestad Visitor Centre

    People have been visiting Stiklestad ever since the battle in 1030, but it’s only in recent times that the location has been turned into more of a destination. Most of the structures and attractions have only been built in the last 20 years.
    The Stiklestad National Cultural Centre was established in 1995. However, monuments have been here since shortly after the battle. It’s believed the first monument was put up in medieval times, and the church was also established soon after.
    The visitor centre has some indoor exhibitions, but practically all the items inside are replicas. Still, it’s a good place to go to get an understanding of the importance of Olav in Norway. They also have a souvenir shop and a cafe.
    There is a huge free carpark by the visitor centre, which is where you’ll park.

    Stiklestad Church

    The church is the closest attraction to the visitor centre, and in my opinion it is the most important thing to see when in Stiklestad because it is closest in age to the Battle.
    Stiklestad Church was built in a Romanesque style around 1180. Construction was initiated by Archbishop Øystein Erlendsson, and it’s believed the site the church is built on is the place where Olav was killed. The stone that Olav was laying on as he died is supposedly still inside the altar of the church.
    Most of the interior decoration is post-Reformation. Today the church is a Lutheran Church. Only the richly decorated baptismal font is preserved from the medieval times. It’s from the 14th century. You’ll find some medieval decorative elements on the outside of the church, especially around the southern and northern portals.
    The most unique thing to see on the church is one of the sculptures on the northern side of the church. It is a woman squatting, lifting her skirt, and having sex. This ‘Sheelanagig’ figure is found throughout Trøndelag and it is also common in England, Ireland, and northern France. ‘Sheelanagig’ may be associated with fertility and protection against evil forces. This is a pre-Christian belief, so it’s interesting that it’s on a Christian church.
    In summer they do open the church to the public. You can book a guided tour from the Visitor Centre, which I’d highly recommend if interested in history.

    St. Olav's Chapel (Russian Orthodox)

    St. Olav’s Chapel is a Russian Orthodox church building from 2003. The chapel belongs to Saint Olga, a Russian Orthodox congregation in Oslo.

    St. Olav's Chapel (Catholic)

    There is another Saint Olav’s Chapel in Stiklestad. This one is a Catholic chapel from 1930, built for the 900th anniversary of the Battle of Stiklestad.

    Olavsstøtta

    This is a monument from 1807 in memory of the Battle of Stiklestad. The memorial is one of the oldest preserved public monuments in Norway. The monument is built on Olavhaugen with a view of Stiklestadsletta where the church is located. According to tradition, the monument was erected on the spot where the shed in which Olav was laid after he fell is said to be located.

    There are some legends that the monument has healing effects. A travelling violinist fell ill while going from Russia to Norway, but he recovered when he arrived at Stikelstad and touched the stone.

    The Middle Ages Centre

    The Middle Ages Centre is a farm that consists of a longhouse, smithy, and other small warehouses. The longhouse was completed in 2009 to try and show what a longhouse would’ve looked like at the end of the Viking Age. The longhouse is primarily to teach about the late Viking age and tell stories about the transition from the Norse pre-Christian society to the medieval society based on the Christian faith.

    Folk Museum

    Close by is the Folk Museum, a collection of 30 buildings from the surrounding farms. The buildings are typically from between the 17th and 19th centuries. There are also nearly 30,000 objects from these nearby properties. The goal of the museum is to document the history of farming in the Verdal valley.

    Plan Your Visit

    Where is Stiklestad?

    Stiklestad is 90 minutes north-east of Trondheim, making it a very reasonable day-trip if you want to get out of the city. Just follow the E6 north and you’ll see brown tourist signs indicating where to turn off to get to Stiklestad. I highly recommend going with a car.  It seems there are no direct buses from Trondheim.

    Finding your way around

    Once you’ve parked your car, it’s fairly easy to find your away around Stiklestad. To get to most attractions, it’s highly recommended to walk. Parking is not possible outside most places.

    The village is built on a slope, with the longhouse being on a hill. I would say it’s a 15 minute walk from the centre. Additionally, most of the area is an open field so it’s grassy to walk on.

    In the map above, I’ve provided an overview of where everything is. 

    Opening hours/prices

    To stay up-to-date with the opening hours and prices, I recommend checking out the Stiklestad website directly by clicking here.

    Parking is free.

    Most of the attractions are outdoors, so you can see them for free. The vast majority of activities take place during summer, between the end of June and middle of August. Honestly, a lot of the activities are centred around children. Still, if you want a historical or informative experience, you can book a guide.

    Spending the night

    There is a hotel in the main centre – the Scandic Stiklestad – where you can stay the night.

    Share your thoughts!

    This is all I have to say about Stiklestad. We spent about an hour here before heading out. We were more interested in Olavsstotta and the Stiklestad Church, both of which have some historic merit. The story of St. Olav and his importance still today is fascinating, but sadly the site where he was killed is so lacking in authentic history that it’s a little hard to find Stiklestad more than a bit of a tourist trap.

    The E6 Highway

    The Falstad Centre is located on the E6, Norway’s main highway. You can find my guide to the E6 by clicking the link below. 

    The E6 Highway
    Trondheim Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide
  • Trondheim, World War II

    Visiting the Falstad Centre, one of the Most Important WWII Centres in Norway

    Visiting the Falstad Centre, one of the Most Important WWII Centres in Norway

    I am always interested in visiting World War II sites, and when roadtripping around Norway I try to visit some of them. The Falstad Centre has been on my list of a while, mostly because it is one of the only prison camps that is still somewhat standing. Norway did have a number of prison camps across the country, but efforts were made to tear them down after the war. At Falstad, you can see the main building still. So, when Sean and I did our Coastal Roadtrip from Trondheim to Senja, we included a stop here.

    The Falstad Centre today is a national memorial site. There are two sites to visit: the Falstad prison camp and the Falstad woods. Additionally, the Falstad Centre has some indoor exhibitions chronicling the use of the camp and occupation of Norway. When we did our Coastal Roadtrip, we only visited the outside (closed due to COVID). Still, they have put up some information boards outside so it is definitely worth visiting. Here’s what we saw when we visited Falstad, plus some information about the history of the camp.

    In this article...

    The E6 Highway

    The Falstad Centre is located on the E6, Norway’s main highway. You can find my guide to the E6 by clicking the link below. 

    The E6 Highway
    Trondheim Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    History of Falstad Centre

    The Camp's Early Use

    If driving from the E6 (European Highway 6), the first stop will the prison camp. Today all that remains is the yellow administration building; most of the wooden barracks were torn down at the end of the war. The commandants house is still visible, too. Parking is free outside, and you will find some information boards outside with images of what the camp used to look like.

    Originally, Falstad was a boarding school for ‘troubled’ boys. The site was originally a farm called Nordre Falstad (Falstad was the farmers name), but the boarding school bought the property in 1895. The school’s purpose was to serve the needs of the ‘misguided’ rather than criminal boys. While at school, they were not only educated but made to do manual labour jobs. Around fifty boys lived here ranging in age from 10 to 18 years old.

    Nazi Germany invaded Norway on the 9th of April 1940. The Nazi German authorities first came to Falstad in August 1941 with plans to make it a centre for the ‘Lebensborn’ program in Norway. The Lebensborn program was an initiative to raise the birth rate of Aryan children amongst ‘racially pure’ parents. In total, Norway had 9 Lebensborn centres – the highest number outside of Germany.
    The site was not used for the Lebensborn program. Instead, they saw its use as a concentration camp. Just a month after their visit, Falstad accepted its first prisoners.

    Prisoners & Life at Falstad

    It is not known how many prisoners passed through here; the camp authorities burned what documents they could before the liberation in 1945. However, estimates are that at least 4,500 prisoners passed through Falstad. Many of them were prisoners of war, and in total at least 13 countries passed through here. The largest group were Yugoslav prisoners. The main characteristic of the camp was forced, hard, and largely meaningless labour. The period between spring 1942 and the autumn of 1943 is the most brutal time in the history of the camp. The prisoners had to work at high speed as slave labourers on pointless projects.

    Jewish Deportation

    Falstad was also used as a transit camp for the Jewish population facing deportation. Trondheim had a sizeable Jewish population that were rounded up and eventually deported to Auschwitz. Falstad was the place they would come to before being sent to Oslo, where the ship was waiting. At least eight Jews were murdered during detention at Falstad.

    Post-war Use

    When the war ended, Falstad was used as a prison for former members of the Norwegian Nazi party as well as prisoners suspected of having supported the Nazis. Then, until the 1990s, it was used as a school once again.

    Use of the Building Today

    After the school closed in the late 1990s, the building became a memorial site and centre for human rights. The Falstad Centre is now used for education and documenting the wartime history of prisoners of war and human rights.

    If you want to learn more about the use of Falstad as a prison camp, I recommend visiting the indoor exhibitions. The Falstad Centre exhibitions focus on the history of the Falstad prison camp and particularly the story and fate of the prisoners. The exhibition also shows the rise of Nazism, the Holocaust, and how the Nazi camp system operated. The Falstad Centre has also made a digital reconstruction of the camp so you can see how it looked during the war.

    Visiting the Falstad Woods (Falstadskogen)

    After visiting the yellow building, get in your car and drive a few minutes to the next stop: the Falstad Woods. Park your car across the street and then head over to the large memorial statue. The memorial depicts prisoners about to be executed by German authorities. It is by the sculptor Odd Hilt, who was a prisoner at Falstad and managed to escape to Sweden. The prisoners have clear facial features, while the soldiers have faceless, anonymous features.

    The Falstad Woods is one of the most sombre World War II sites in Norway. The woods were an execution site by the German occupation authorities, particularly for prisoners of war. The first executions took place on the 7th of March 1942. When the war was coming to an end, the Germans took some of the bodies and sunk them in the Trondheimsfjord. Additionally, some prisoners were executed at nearby fortresses. It’s not known exactly how many people were executed here. On top of that, it’s believed that not all the bodies have been found in the woods yet.

    The victims were at least 43 Norwegians, 74 Yugoslavs, and more than 100 Soviet citizens. The prison camp was hardest on the Yugoslavs, who were often executed soon after arriving at the camp. Many of the Norwegian victims were members of the resistance movement. At least 200 people were executed here, but those at the centre now believe that number to be low. They are still making efforts to find, exhume, and properly bury the victims. A list of some of the known victims are on Lokalhistoriewiki.no (in Norwegian).
    https://lokalhistoriewiki.no/wiki/Falstad_fangeleir

    Information about the victims can also be found in the Falstad Centre.

    You can walk through the woods today. On the ground you will find markers; these state that someone is buried there. Please take extra care in staying on the path; the markers are not always so obvious.

    It is possible to walk between the Falstad Centre and the Falstad Woods; a marked path will take you past the graves and memorial. The trail is about 2km long one way. There are 22 bridges that you’ll pass along the way. Maps can be collected from the Falstad Centre.

    Practical Information

    Everything you need to know about visiting the Falstad Centre can be found on their excellent website, https://falstadsenteret.no/en/frontpage. I would recommend booking a guided tour to truly understand how this area was used as a prison camp. The Falstad Centre offers guided tours in English and Norwegian.

    The museum has information in multiple languages, including English and Norwegian. The Falstad Centre has also digitally recreated the layout of the camp, and you can pick up a tablet from reception with the digital reconstruction on it.

    The E6 Highway

    The Falstad Centre is located on the E6, Norway’s main highway. You can find my guide to the E6 by clicking the link below. 

    The E6 Highway
    Trondheim Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide
  • Norway

    Which Month is Best for Visiting Norway?

    Which Month is Best for Visiting Norway?

    Welcome to my guide that will answer your question: what month is best for visiting Norway?

    In this guide, you’l find a seasonal overview of the weather, what to pack, food, and events. There are also buttons that will lead you to pages dedicated to specific months of the year. 

    If you want to know what month is best for a specific destination, browse my digital travel guide (click here). You’ll find all the places I cover, and when you click on them you’ll find a section for the weather. 

    When should you visit Norway? What month is the best month? When is it warm and sun? When can I see the Northern Lights?

    These are commonly asked questions when travellers are planning to come to Norway. And there are hundreds of articles online giving you various answers, though they all typically say the same thing: July! Warmth! Sun! Pleasant! I read through dozens of these articles and typically read the same advice. However, it doesn’t really coincide with what I’ve experienced actually travelling in Norway.

    I take groups around Norway throughout the year for different purposes, and I’ve found that there is no special month to visit. No month is the ‘best’ month. No season is the ‘best season’. It depends on what you want to experience. Don’t like crowds? July isn’t for you. Don’t like rain? Maybe skip November (but seriously, you have to love the rain if you’re coming to Norway!)

    Choosing which month is best really depends on what you want to get out of Norway. So, in my guide, rather than tell you the ‘best’ month, I’ve put together an overview of what Norway is like each month. That way, you can understand what you can expect and choose your time of year from there.

    I’ve provided a general overview of Norway in each month, but focus also on Bergen. I mean, this blog is called ‘I Love Bergen’ after all! Also I live in Bergen, so I deal with the weather every day. For temperature averages, I focused on the three most commonly visited cities: Oslo, Bergen and Tromsø. But, of course, the weather varies dramatically across the country. If you think I should add a city, let me know.

    You can find weather information for specific cities in my digital travel guide (click here). 

    I’ve also focused on the most recent data for each month. It’s easy to get overall averages, but the weather in Norway is changing: it’s warming up. So I think the recent data is much more realistic than averages built up over time.

    If you think I’ve skipped over anything, or if there’s anything you think I should add, let me know!

    In this article...

    Quick Summary

    • Northern Lights: I’ve had the most success in March and September, though any time between September and March works as long as you put in the effort
    • Winter Activities: Come between December and March, though if you can push it to January do that.
    • Cool Weather: April, May, September, October, November, plus all of winter (of course)
    • Nature Lovers: May or October. Spring or Autumn
    • No Crowds, Open Attractions: May
    • Hot Weather: July. But don’t expect it to be hot like elsewhere in Europe
    • Snow: February/March. March is the month with the deepest snow
    • My recommended month: May

    Winter

    Winter is a lovely time to be in Norway, despite the fact it’s the quietest time of the year. Most of the country turns into a winter wonderland, and the northern lights begin to shine in the skies. While Bergen doesn’t see much snow at this time of year, you just have to travel an hour inland and you are surrounded by some of the most popular ski slopes in the country.

    Skiing has a special place in Norwegian culture and history, and during the winter people of all ages head to ski resorts, forests and mountains to enjoy their national hobby.

    Clothing

    Winter in Norway can, of course, be very cold. Bring layers. Use wool rather than cotton or polyester, and make sure you have waterproof clothing, as well as a coat that is both water and windproof. This is especially important in the coastal areas. If you are visiting a city, you don’t need waterproof pants and a down jacket will work just fine.

    Seasonal Food & Drink

    Winter is the best time of year to eat seafood such as prawns, langoustine, blue mussel, scallop and lobster. Fresh fish is also best in winter, and many restaurants offer cod, halibut, salmon and trout.

    Christmas food will be found on the menus throughout winter. This includes smalahove (sheep’s head), lutefisk (cod soaked in lye), and pinnekjøtt (dried, salted and steamed sheep’s ribs).

    Weather

    In winter, the average temperature for the entire country is -6.8 degrees, but the conditions vary a lot. Around Oslo, snowfall is common, and the average temperature is just below zero. In Bergen, the weather rarely goes into the negatives and we get more rain than snow.

    The lower areas of Northern Norway have very cold winters with lots of snow. The snow, strong winds and severe frost is particularly harsh, and may result in road closures.

    The coastal areas are much milder.

    The sun disappears from Northern Norway by the end of November, and until mid-January the region experiences the polar night. This doesn’t mean it’s completely pitch black throughout winter; Northern Norway gets these lovely polar lights; blue, pink and orange skies during the daytime, and then perfect northern lights darkness during the night. In southern Norway, at its worst, we get around 5.5 hours of sunlight a day.

    December is a very quiet month. It is the darkest month of the year, and many choose to have a quiet month centered around staying home and enjoying Christmas traditions. 

    Activities

    • Visit the Northern Lights Festival in Tromso
    • in Tromso they host the Northern Lights Festival

    Weather

    Typically February is the coldest month of the year.

    Northern Lights

    February is considered to be ideal for viewing the northern lights.

    Activities

    Many winter activities are on offer in February. 

    • The Polar Jazz Festival is held in February. It is the world’s northernmost jazz festival, taking place in Svalbard. 
    • Rørosmartnan is Norway’s largest winter festival. It’s held in Røros, one of my favourite places in Norway. 
    • Sami Week is a must if you are coming in February. During the first week of February, Sami culture is celebrated around the country. In Tromsø, they host the national reindeer sledge championship on the main street. 

    Spring

    Hardanger in May

    While Spring technically starts in March, it is still cold and snowy. March, after all, is still a popular month for seeing snow, the northern lights, and taking part in winter activities.

    During April and May, the days are getting longer and the snow is beginning to melt. During May, the plants all turn green and the flowers boom. Birds are starting to build their nests and farmers are delivering their newborn lambs. It’s a lovely time of year to be in Norway!

    Spring is the best time of year to see waterfalls. As the snow is melting, it creates giant waterfalls. By July, their flow has weakened considerably, and in winter they are frozen.

    Spring is also when the birds are at their liveliest. The migratory birds return home in April to enjoy the warmer seasons. The Varanger Peninsula is one of the best places to see birds like white-tailed eagles, gyrfalcons, steller’s eider and Arctic Sea Ducks. If you visit Røst in Lofoten in mid-April, you’ll see thousands of Arctic puffins return to their breeding grouns.

    On the West Coast of Norway, you typically get spring in late April/early May. They have to be a little more patient in Northern Norway, with spring coming in late May or early June, but by then the days are long and bright and the summer days have already started. May is the month when the two-month-long midnight sun begins in the Arctic.

    It’s notoriously hard to predict when spring arrives; technically the spring equinox is around 20 March. Personally, I don’t start feeling the spring weather until May. But even then, May can be a snowy month.

    Winter is a lovely time to be in Norway, despite the fact it’s the quietest time of the year. Most of the country turns into a winter wonderland, and the northern lights begin to shine in the skies. While Bergen doesn’t see much snow at this time of year, you just have to travel an hour inland and you are surrounded by some of the most popular ski slopes in the country.

    Skiing has a special place in Norwegian culture and history, and during the winter people of all ages head to ski resorts, forests and mountains to enjoy their national hobby.

    Clothing

    Dressing in April and May is difficult because the weather is so hard to predict; by the time you’ve put on your jacket, the weather has changed for either the worse or the better.

    It’s good to pack warm clothes no matter what, and a waterproof and windproof jacket is always needed. Make sure you dress in layers so you can adjust according to the weather.

    You typically won’t need snow boots in April, and you definitely won’t need them in May. While we still may get snow, it does melt very quickly and doesn’t affect walking around. In Northern Norway, the snow may sit for a little longer, but it’s not often slippery.

    Seasonal food & drink

    Spring is the time for lamb dishes, usually around Easter, and it’s also when we have the first potatoes, asparagus and wild garlic for the year.

    Fresh fish is always good, and in spring we typically have herring and cod from the Lofoten area.

    Closer to summer, rhubarb begins to appear.

    May is a month of public holidays included the much loved 17 May (Constitution Day), and for that day many Norwegians bake incredible cakes, pastries and breads. The best cakes have lots of fresh berries on them, whereas the popular and much loved kransekake is available for purchase in stores.

    During spring you finish your winter food, and you may come across salted meat and raspeball on the menus. Raspeball is a traditional potato dumlping, though it goes by many dufferent names!

    Weather

    Spring arrives early in Southern Norway compared to the rest of the country, usually some time in April. The days are getting warmer and lighter every day. Spring flowers appear, the trees are budding, birds build their nests and farmers deliver newborn lambs. In early spring the coastal areas of Western Norway have the highest temperatures. In May, it’s normally southern Norway that has the warmest weather.

    Above the Arctic Circle, Spring may not come until late May or early June.

    I’ve always found spring hard to predict. Last year, in May, it was hot and sunny, but this year it’s been cold, rainy and snowy for pretty much all the month.

    In March the days begin to feel much longer. March is also considered one of the best months for visiting Svalbard.

    Activities

    • The Finnmarksløpet is held in March. It is Europe’s longest dog sled endurance race and takes place up in Finnmark
    • The Sami Grand Prix (their version of Eurovision) is held in March
    • Sunfest in Longyearbyen is a celebration of the sun returning to the island

    April is a quiet month in Norway. The weather can be unpredictable and Norwegians are eagerly awaiting May and the good weather that will come. 

    Activities

    • Stavanger Vinfest. In mid-April a large celebration of food and wine is held in Stavanger
    • Trondheim Blues is one of northern Europe’s premier blues events. It takes place in Trondheim. 

    Spring arrives properly in May. All of the flowers begin to bloom, the snow melts, and it is typically one of the sunniest months in the country. 

    Activities

    Many festivals take place in May:

    • Constitution Day. If you are planning a trip to Norway in May, try to come on Constitution Day. The 17th of May is a huge celebration in the city and you’ll get to watch the parade, see people in their bunads, and enjoy true Norwegian patriotism. 
    • The Alta Blues and Soul Festival takes place in late May and has a month-long program of music performances
    • Bergen’s International Festival is one of Norway’s largest cultural events and has a two week line-up of cultural events, including dance, music, and presentations
    • Codstock in Lofoten in May is perhaps the best festival title in Norway. It is the celebration of cod and local music

    Summer

    Summer! Summer is (of course) the most popular time to visit Norway, and why not. The days are long, the sun is shining, and everything is open. The Norwegian summer weather is (for the most part) quite stable, and the temperatures are lovely all over the country. In July, during the summer holidays, you’ll see the locals out enjoying the sun after a long and cold winter. It’s also common for people to go out on their boats. Some have their sailing boats, while most just use their small traditional boats to cruise on the fjords and through the archipelagos.

    Summer is a popular month to go hiking, and all trails typically are open by July. Lots of people also spend nights out in nature camping and take to the ski trails to go cycling. Outdoor recreation is a major part of the Norwegian identity.

    At the same time, summer is the high season. Expect cruise ships, endless bus tours, crowds, lines, and higher prices. Hotels may sell out months in advance, while museums may be overcrowded to the point it’s unpleasant. Everyone comes in summer. The July holidays for Europe sees numerous caravanning Germans or Dutch on the roads, which is a thrill on the narrow fjord roads.

    Clothing

    Norwegian weather is always unpredictable. It may be hot and sunny one day, and then the next day it’s cold and rainy. Always pack windproof and waterproof clothing, but don’t hesitant to pack shorts and a t-shirt!

    Seasonal food & drink

    Summer is a lovely time for fresh berries, and blueberries are commonly found in the Norwegian forests and mountains. In Southern Norway, they tend to ripen in the middle of Summer. In July and August, you’ll see roadside booths offering locally grown strawberries and cherries for sale.

    Norwegians love grilling. Whole sections of the supermarket are dedicated to it. Almost no matter the weather Norwegians will be outside grilling whatever they come across. Vegetables, fish, meat, and poultry on the barbeque is a summer tradition for the Norwegians.

    The first sign of summer is when you see Norwegians outside drinking beer. There is even a Norwegian word for this: utepils. It’s so ingrained in summer that the first opportunity for it will often be mentioned in the press.

    Pick up a lovely plate of freshly caught fish served with sour cream, potatoes and cucumber salad. Or maybe have shrimp straight from the boat, enjoyed right at the dock?

    Weather

    Typically, summer temperatures reach 25 to 30 degrees, and there is hardly any humidity in the area. Even the nights are warm.

    In the last two years, we have had sweltering heatwaves where temperatures have gone over 33 degrees.

    The warm months sound great at first, but Norway is not built for hot weather. Hotels are typically not air conditioned, as are museums and supermarkets. It gets uncomfortably hot during summer, and this can be pleasant, especially if you aren’t used to that kind of heat. I mean, I’m from Australia and I find it unpleasant! So don’t think you have to travel in July because it’s hot and sunny; most of my groups love the colder weather. It’s more Norwegian, right?

    From late June to early August it never really gets dark anywhere in the country. The midnight sun occurs only above the Arctic Circle, and lasts typically from mid-May to the end of July. Below the Arctic Circle the sun does set, but we never really get a true darkness. The sky is more like dusk throughout the night.

    The warmest and most stable weather usually occurs in Eastern Norway, where it’s often very sunny and temperatures are over 25 degrees Celsius.

    The highest temperatures are inland.

    Along the Western Coast, the cool sea breezes keep most heat waves at bay, but keep in mind Bergen can be very rainy, even in summer. A lovely sunny day can be followed by three miserable rainy ones.

    June is when tourism really returned to Norway and it gets crowded very fast.

    It is a good time to go whale watching up in Northern Norway around Andenes. 

    Activities:

    • Voss Extreme Sports Week: Head to Voss in Western Norway for an action packed week of outdoor sports. 
    • Midnight Sun marathon in Tromso: This is the world’s northernmost 42km road race and worth going to watch if you aren’t a marathoner. 

    July is peak tourist season and is very crowded. Still, it is a nice warm month to come and there are some things going on. 

    Activities

    • Moldejazz in Molde is one of Norway’s most famous jazz festivals

    August is when most of the music festivals take place. The weather is still nice and warm, but the midnight sun has ended and the days are getting shorter.

    • International Chamber Music Festival takes place n Stavanger and has some nice concerts
    • Rauma Rock is Norway’s regular mix of jazz and blues
    • Øya Festival in Oslo is Norway’s largest rock festival

    Autumn (Fall)

    The Norwegian autumn comes with a variety of weather. In some parts of the country, summer may last until well into October, while rain and snow can arrive as early as September.

    The best part of autumn is the changing of the colours. The trees and heath turn yellow and red and leaves start to fall off the trees. The colours are at their most dazzling in autumn. The mountains are especially beautiful at this time of the year, and it’s a popular season to go hiking.

    Summer! Summer is (of course) the most popular time to visit Norway, and why not. The days are long, the sun is shining, and everything is open. The Norwegian summer weather is (for the most part) quite stable, and the temperatures are lovely all over the country. In July, during the summer holidays, you’ll see the locals out enjoying the sun after a long and cold winter. It’s also common for people to go out on their boats. Some have their sailing boats, while most just use their small traditional boats to cruise on the fjords and through the archipelagos.

    Summer is a popular month to go hiking, and all trails typically are open by July. Lots of people also spend nights out in nature camping and take to the ski trails to go cycling. Outdoor recreation is a major part of the Norwegian identity.

    At the same time, summer is the high season. Expect cruise ships, endless bus tours, crowds, lines, and higher prices. Hotels may sell out months in advance, while museums may be overcrowded to the point it’s unpleasant. Everyone comes in summer. The July holidays for Europe sees numerous caravanning Germans or Dutch on the roads, which is a thrill on the narrow fjord roads.

    Clothing

    Wind and rain make the outdoors a typically wet experience in autumn, but you may get lucky and see a last glimpse of summer weather. It is difficult to predict the weather in autumn, but you should pack wind and rainproof outer clothing. Underneath wear a couple layers that you can adjust according to the temperatures.

    Seasonal food & drink

    Autumn is harvesting time. This is when the menus change once again, and Norwegians favour local ingredients and slow-booked and rich dishes suited for a chillier climate.

    Fårikål, Norway’s national dish, is popular in autumn; there’s even the Fårikål Feast Day in September.

    The Norwegian word for autumn is høst, which literally translates to harvest. Gathering fruits, berries and mushrooms is a popular hobby. Lots of Christmas treats are prepared in autumn.

    Apple Day is also celebrated in September. The season’s apples are perfect as jams and pies.

    Other popular foods are lamb, moose and other wild beasts, which go well with lingonberries and cream sauce. Potatoes, sweet carrots and crispy chanterelles also are found on menus.

    The crowds and cruise ships begin to disappear in September, so it can be a nice time to visit. However, the weather can be a little unpredictable. 

    In October the temperatures are dropping. You get the nice fall colours in October. 

    Activities

    • Bergen International Film Festival is one of Norway’s largest festivals. It is largely a documentary festival

    November is a quiet month for tourism and the winter can start to come. Winter activities don’t typically begin now because there isn’t stable snow on the ground yet. 

  • Fagernes, Foodies Guide, Voss

    20 of the Best Traditional Norwegian Foods to Try

    20 of the Best Traditional Norwegian Foods to Try

    When you come to Norway, you have to try the local cuisine. Whenever someone asks me “What is a traditional Norwegian food?” I have to explain that here food varies dramatically according to region and time of year.

    The most traditional Norwegian foods are, understandably, found in Norwegian restaurants. They tend to be the most expensive options, but if you do your research you can find the same quality food in the fish market restaurants or the Norwegian cafes.

    When we think traditional Norwegian food, our brain tends to go straight to seafood. It is true – Norway has a long history of fishing, and many farmers had to survive on fishing. Seafood remains an important part of Norwegian cuisine today, but due to its historical association of being a food for the poor, meat is seen as more of a luxury dish.

    Sheep, lamb and pork are popular meats found in Norway. If you go north, you’ll find reindeer on the menu. In the rural parts of the country, you’ll find game meats. Meats were typically seen as high-end food and what you would more likely be served when visiting a Norwegian home. Still, Norwegians had to be thrifty and all of the animal was used. That’s why you’ll find questionable dishes below, but remember this is how people had to survive for a long period of time.

    Most meat and fish dishes are accompanied with potatoes, carrots and other vegetables (according to season). Sauce is also an important ingredient, and there are a wide variety of Norwegian sauces that fit perfectly with different kinds of meat and seafood.

    Norwegians didn’t get fridges in their households until the 1950s, and before then methods of preservation were crucial. Families salted and dried their own fish and meat, pickled their own fruit and vegetables, and did everything possible to make food survive through the winter. You’ll see examples of this below.

    I’ve compiled a list of what I consider the most traditional Norwegian foods to try. When you come to Norway, be sure to try some of these. Pay attention to where in Norway you are and what season it is – if you check restaurants online keep in mind their menus are always seasonal.

    In this article...

    Found in Restaurants

    Salmon



    Recipe / Image Source
    Homemade Gravlaks
    Supermarket

    • Smoked salmon can be found in restaurants or supermarkets
    • Cooked salmon is found all over the country

    Salmon is a staple of the Norwegian diet, and you can find it on menus practically all over the country.
    Possibly the most Norwegian form of salmon is gravlaks. Gravlaks is salmon that has been cured in salt, sugar, and dill. You will find it on some breakfast buffets or as an appetiser on menus.

    Smoked salmon can be bought in supermarkets, though I do see it on menus as an appetiser too.

    If you order a salmon fillet from a restaurant, it will come with potatoes, seasonal vegetables, and a white sauce.
    It’s worth nothing that most, if not all, Norwegian salmon is farmed.

    Try it on Sushi!

    I know, sushi is not a traditional Norwegian dish.

    However.

    The Norwegians claim to have invented salmon sushi. Fresh fish sushi is amazing in Norway and it’s very popular for people here to have for lunch or dinner. Norway is actually credited for popularising salmon sushi in Japan in the 1980s. At the time, the Asian country was resistant to raw salmon due to parasites associated with pacific salmon. After Norway’s Project Japan successfully introduced and promoted Atlantic salmon to Japan, and it has been a staple ever since.

    Fårikål



    Recipe / Image Source

    • Norway’s national dish
    • Stew with meat and potato

    Fårikål is a stew that has been voted Norway’s national dish. It’s made from lamb meat and most of the animal is used – the shoulder, neck, ribs, and chops. The meat is cooked over a long time, and this makes the meat really tender. Cabbage is also put into the stew. After hours in the pot, it’s ready to eat.

    The last Thursday of September is Norway’s national fårikål day. You’ll find it on Norwegian restaurant menus throughout autumn.

    Stockfish




    Buy on Amazon/Image Source

    Stockfish is the staple of North Norwegian cuisine. It’s cod that has been dried outdoors for several months. The tradition dates back to the 12th century, and for hundreds of years it was the main Norwegian export.

    In restaurants you’ll find stockfish on the menu, especially in Northern Norway. The stockfish is rehydrated before cooking.

    If you go into a supermarket in Northern Norway or the fish markets in Southern Norway, you’ll be able to find the stockfish still dry. But it whole or as a bag of chips!

    You will also find cod (not dried – just fresh cod fillets) on many restaurant menus. The best I’ve ever had was at Enhjorningen in Bryggen. It’s pictured on the left.

    Lutefisk



    Recipe / Image Source
    “Why We Keep Eating Lutefisk in Minnesota”
    Buy Lutefisk (USA)

    • Stockfish soaked in lye
    • Traditional Christmas dish

    Lutefisk is another traditional food from Norway, which is typically eaten at Christmas. It is also common to eat on Christmas in Sweden and some parts of Finland.

    Lutefisk is made from aged stockfish and pickled in lye. First, the stockfish is soaked for five to six days in water, which is changed daily. Then it is soaked in a solution of cold water and lye for an additional two days. During this process, the dried fish swells and its protein content decreases by more than 50 percent. It creates a jelly-like texture. This process actually makes the fish inedible. To make it possible to eat, it needs an additional five to six days of soaking in cold water to remove the very high pH levels the lye added. Then it is cooked.

    Lutefisk is cooked by spreading a layer of salt over the fish to release some of the water. Remove the salt before cooking. Place it in a pan and steam cook it on a low heat for up to 25 minutes. It can also be baked in the oven. Lutefisk is served with potatoes, green peas, melted butter, and small pieces of fried bacon. Side dishes vary greatly from region to region, and family to family.

    Lutefisk Around the World

    Lutefisk has become popular in the United States as a heritage fish. Madison in Minnesota was named the ‘lutefisk capital of the world’ as it has the largest per capita consumption of lutefisk in Minnesota. Lutefisk is also served in Lutheran churches across Wisconsin, and it can be found in Canada. In Norway, around 20% of Norwegians eat it as a Christmas dinner.

    In Norway, you will find it for sale in supermarkets or on the menu over Christmas time. If you visit in July, you will not find lutefisk anywhere.

    We had lutefisk at Bryggeloftet in Bergen, and it was incredible.

    Meatballs

    • Meatballs
    • Find them in cheaper restaurants. The best ones are always found in our roadside diner – the ‘kro’

    Kjøttkaker is Norway’s answer to Sweden’s meatballs. Are ours better? Absolutely! 😉 Norwegian meatballs tend to be bigger and more influenced by family traditional recipes, whereas Swedish meatballs are more bite-sized.
    Meatballs are eaten with boiled potatoes, carrots (or other vegetables), and a brown sauce. They are best eaten homemade, but I find the most authentic ones in our version of a diner – the ‘kro’. You will find upmarket versions in restaurants, but this is a hearty dish that needs to be the real deal!

    Whale Meat

    Whale is a controversial food item, but I do recommend trying it when in Norway. Whaling isn’t banned: it’s heavily regulated and the whale used is minke whale, which is sustainable to hunt. You will see whale meat in fish markets and some supermarkets, but try it in a restaurant. More casual restaurants serve it as a burger, while the more upmarket ones serve it as a steak.
    It’s not as widely available as the anti-whaling groups make it out to be, and there aren’t many who prepare it at home.
    Whale was commonly used as a cheap substitute for beef in the early 20th century, and was vital to remote communities in Northern Norway.

    Consumption in whale meat is declining in Norway.

    You’ll find it in the fish market in Bergen.

    Raspeballer



    Recipe

    The Different Names

    Raspeballer

    • Dense potato balls
    • Called something different all over the country

    Raspeballer are a traditional Norwegian dish commonly prepared and served during the summer. You’ll find it on the menu at traditional, not necessarily high-end, Norwegian restaurants.
    This dense ball of mashed potato and flour is simmered in stock with fatty cuts of sheep or pork. It’s served with thick cubes of pan-fried bacon and lots of brown butter.
    Many restaurants serve it as a special every Thursday afternoon.
    They aren’t the most beautiful to look at, but they are very tasty!

    Smalahove



    Recipe

    This dish is the ultimate West Norwegian Christmas dish. You will only find it on menus over the Christmas period, and it’s not cheap. Still, if you want to try it – go ahead!
    The sheeps head is either boiled or steamed for three hours and is usually served with rutabaga and potatoes. Historically, it was food for the lower class. Today it is a delicacy that has to be preordered months in advance.

    Pinnekjøtt



    Recipe

    Pinnekjøtt

    • Dried, salted, smoked and cured lamb ribs
    • Very common Christmas dish. Found in restaurants and supermarkets

    The dish is made from lamb ribs. The meat is dried, salted and smoked. Once the meat is cured, the racks are hung in a cool, dark, and well-ventilated place to dry. Before cooking, the racks are separated into individual ribs and then soaked in water to rinse out the salt. After soaking the ribs, the ribs are steamed.
    This is a very popular Christmas/New Years dish in Western Norway, and you’ll find it in most Norwegian restaurants.

    Fiskesuppe



    Recipe

    Fiskesuppe

    • Fish soup
    • The best one is in Bergen!

    Fish soup is found all over the country, but it’s famous in Bergen. It is a white, milk-based soup with vegetables and various kinds of fish. The most incredible fish soup I’ve ever had is at Bryggeloftet in Bergen.

    Klippfisk



    Bacalao Recipe
    Klippfisk in supermarkets

    • Salted stockfish
    • Used commonly in bacalao

    The Dutch introduced salt to the fishermen of Kristiansund in the 1600s, and this is how cliff fish, or klippfisk, was born!  Salted, dried and pressed cod is known as the star of the Iberian dish bacalao. It became very popular in Kristiansund, where the klippfisk was produced.
    The difference between klippfisk and stockfish is that klippfisk is salted before drying, while stockfish isn’t.
    Today klippfisk is primarily exported to Spain and Portugal and used in bacalao.

    Rakfisk

    • Fermented trout/char
    • Try some at the Norwegian rakfisk festival in Fagernes

    Rakfisk is Norwegian fish made from trout or char, salted, and fermented for two or three months or even up to a year. It’s eaten without further cooking. It must be prepared and stored hygienically due to the risk of causing bacteria.
    Every year the Norwegian Rakfisk Festival takes place in Fagernes. Local rakfisk producers as well as producers of other local products and handicrafts turn the streets into a marketplace.
    Click here for more info. 

    Game & Hunting Meat

    High cuisine is reliant on game meats. Hunting is heavily regulated in Norway, and it is typically for personal consumption or given to friends and family. They are also served in restaurants.
    Here are the more traditional meats to try in restaurants:
    Moose. Moose is hunted and prepared in restaurants. You’ll very rarely find it in supermarkets. The taste can be compared to venison or elk. It’s prepared in many different forms, from steaks to burgers to hot dogs and stews. Click here for some different moose menus.
    Reindeer. If you’re in Northern Norway, you have to have reindeer. Extra points if you eat reindeer prepared by the Sami. I don’t eat reindeer often, but when I do I make sure it’s from a Sami family. My favourite ever reindeer eaten was a reindeer potato bake I had at a Sami camping ground. You’ll find it in supermarkets and on menus – it’s typically served as a steak.
    Deer. Deer is very common on menus, and it’s also often served as a steak.
    Grouse. This is one of the most sought-after birds in Norway. The breast has a tender, mild gamey taste.

    Supermarket Buys

    Brown Cheese

    • Brown Cheese / Gudbrandalsost
    • Find the cheese in the supermarket or on the buffet at your hotel breakfast

    Brown cheese is a very Norwegian food item. It is regarded as one of Norway’s most iconic foodstuffs, and it is considered an important part of Norwegian gastronomical and cultural identity and heritage.
    Brown cheese is produced by boiling milk, cream, and whey for several hours until the water evaporates. The heat turns the milk sugars into caramel – this is what gives the cheese its brown colour and sweetness. It is either made from cows’ milk or goat’s milk.
    The most popular type is ‘Gudbrandsdalsost’, which is produced in the Gudbrandsdalen Valley and contains a mixture of goat and cow milk.
    If you are trying brown cheese for the first time, put it on a lightly buttered slice of bread. It is a little sticky and full of flavour, so you don’t want to overwhelm it. Brown cheese is not technically cheese, so don’t go in expecting a cheese flavour! I love having brown cheese on waffles, too.
    Brown cheese is used in sweet and savoury dishes such as pasta & muffins. I like to make ‘brown cheese burgers’ 
    Fun fact: Brown cheese has become very popular in South Korea. In South Korea, they put it on croissants, though brown cheese pizza is very popular too.

    Kaviar

    Caviar… in a tube

    • Try Norwegian caviar straight from a tube
    • You’ll find it in the cold spreads section of the supermarket

    Pickled herring is something we like to snack on. Buy a jar in the supermarket with some rye bread, put the two together, and enjoy! If you’re hosting a party, serve pickled herring as a hors-d’oeuvre. It’s popularly eaten over Christmas.

    Leverpostei

    • Liver paste
    • You’ll find it in the tinned goods section of the supermarket

    Leverpostei is a common filling for sandwiches. This is a paste made of liver – normally pork. You can buy it in tins in the supermarket. It tastes best on a slice of bread. The tins characteristically have a childs face on the front.

    Sur-Sild

    • Pickled Herring
    • You can buy it in a large jar in the supermarket fridge section

    Pickled herring is something we like to snack on. Buy a jar in the supermarket with some rye bread, put the two together, and enjoy! If you’re hosting a party, serve pickled herring as a hors-d’oeuvre. It’s popularly eaten over Christmas.

    Snacks, Desserts, Takeaway

    Pølse med Lompe

    • Hot dog in pancakes
    • You’ll find them at kiosks (7/11 and Narvesen) as well as hotdog stands

    This is the traditional Norwegian foods of hot dogs. You can buy regular hotdogs in Norway, but if you want to do as the Norwegians do, try the Norwegian version with a sausage in a potato pancake.

    Waffles

    • Norwegian waffles
    • You’ll find them in cafes

    The Norwegian waffles are, in my opinion, the best in the world. They are thin, fluffy, and shaped like love hearts. The heart shape comes from the tradition that waffles are sold at charity drives.
    You can put many different things on top – jam, sour cream, cream, sugar, brown cheese. My husband puts ketchup on, which is so wrong!
    You can buy pre-made packets in supermarkets. Just add butter and water. The waffle irons are available everywhere, and prices range from 600 – 1000 NOK.

    Lefse

    • A kind of Norwegian flatbread

    Lefse is made with butter, flour, potatoes, and cream. However, the recipes for lefse vary dramatically depending where in Norway you are.
    You can buy packaged lefse in supermarkets or kiosks. Vestlandslefse is the best!

    Rømmegrøt

    • A strange Norwegian dessert

    Rømmegrøt is a sour cream porridge that you’ll find in the more traditional restaurants and diners.
    The recipe consists of sour cream, flour, milk, and salt which are then boiled or several minutes until a thick, creamy consistency is achieved. In Røros it is served with boiled trout, which makes it even more unique.

    Share your thoughts!

    Have you got any suggestions for food items to add? Or maybe some recommendations for restaurants? Add them below!
    I hope you enjoyed this article.

  • Bergen, Geilo, Hønefoss, Oslo, Voss

    Everything You Need to Know About the Bergen Railway

    The Bergen Railway

    The Bergen Railway is undeniably one of the best ways to get between Bergen and Oslo. The entire journey, which takes around 7 hours, crosses valleys and mountains, passes lakes and fjords, and shows you some of the best Norway has to offer.

    Information online can be tricky, so I’ve gathered it all together in one straight-to-the-point article. After the practical information, you’ll find an overview of some of the stations you pass on the trip. 

    If you wish to support me, you can leave a tip by clicking the coffee cup on the bottom left of this screen. Otherwise, leave questions or kind words in the chat section.

    Here’s everything you need to know before taking the Bergen Railway. Enjoy!

    In this article...

    Download this Guide

    All of our guides can be downloaded via our online store. 

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

    View on Store

    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Information about facilities along the way

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the region & towns
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Facilities including supermarkets, toilets, petrol, hotels, cafes, restaurants with addresses.

    Brief Historical Overview

    The Bergen Railway was built between 1875 and 1909. The first section of the train to be built was the Voss Line, which runs between Bergen and Voss. It opened in 1883 after over a decade of planning and construction. The plan had always been to extend it to Oslo, but by the time the Voss Line was complete, Norway was in a recession. Parliament was not willing to give more money. In 1894, the matter was brought to parliament, and they voted 60 in favour (53 against) to build the Bergen Line. 12 different routes were surveyed over a period of six years. Construction finally began in 1901.

    The construction process, as you might imagine, was very challenging. The high altitudes in a region without roads and a freezing cold climate made it difficult for the workers. The tunnels were all built manually through solid gneiss. The laying of track started in 1906 and took around one year to be completed.

    The original train was a standard gauge. The first services started on the 1st of July 1907 between Voss and Myrdal. An official opening was attempted on 9 December 1907, but the train got stuck in heavy snow. The first train between Bergen and Oslo ran on the 25th of November 1909, and two days later the railway was officially opened at Voss by King Haakon VII.

    The railway was used a lot during World War II for both civilian and military transportation.

    After the war, plans were made to electrify the train. The line was electrified in four stages between 1961 and 1964.

    Practical Information

    Timings

    • How many trains run a day? Four trains to between Bergen and Oslo a day. 
    • What time should I take it? If you are doing the Bergen to Oslo trip with Norway in a Nutshell all in one day, take the train that leaves Bergen around 8am. It’s also a good time to take the train because it gives you time to explore Oslo. The train gets into Oslo around 2:45pm.
    • What’s the best time of year to go? The train operates all year. It really depends on when you are travelling. It’s crowded in summer. I prefer spring: you get all the flowers and trees blooming closer to sea level, but there’s still snow on the mountains. 

    Tickets & Pricing

    • Buying in advance: Tickets can be bought up to 90 days in advance on our national rail website, vy.no. 
    • Does it sell out? Yes! In summer and over winter holidays, it is very common for the train to sell out. Book as early as possible.
    • Are there any discounts?If you keep an eye out and book as early as possible, you may find the minipris tickets. These are heavily discounted, but they do sell out quickly!
    • Norway in a Nutshell: You can book the trip on the Norway in a Nutshell website, and this is worth doing if you are actually doing the Norway in a Nutshell tour (Bergen – Voss – Gudvangen – Flåm – Myrdal – Oslo). However, they tend to charge more than if you just booked it on your own. It’s a matter of ease and convenience. 
    • How much do tickets cost? Ticket prices change a lot depending on the time of year and how close the train is to selling out

    Komfort Class

    • Komfort Class is the ‘first class’ option on the train
    • Komfort Class comes with complimentary tea and cofee, plus charging ports
    • Is it worth it? Honestly, I think so. While the ‘advantages’ of Komfort class don’t seem worth the extra fare, I think it’s worth it because it’s so much more relaxing. In summer, the train gets overcrowded with noisy travellers and luggage. The Komfort section tends to be where the Norwegians go because it’s quieter. Being silent in this section is a little more enforced too. 

    Services on board

    • Cafe: There is a cafe on the train. They have drinks, sandwiches, chocolates, coffee, hot dogs, pizzas, and some warm food items (like a curry with rice). The café gets incredibly busy around the middle of the trip, and the carriage is tiny. It is very unpleasant if you try to get food then. Some items will sell out, too. If you wait to the end of the trip, you’ll be left with hot dogs as an option. I recommend buying cold food early and saving it until you want it. It’s cheaper to buy food ahead of time and bring it on board with you. 
    • Alcohol? No alcohol is served on board
    • Wifi? Wifi is on the train in theory, but how well it works depends on what part of Norway you’re in. For example, it rarely works in the mountains. 
    • Bringing Children: Close to the café is a playroom for children. It’s called the ‘Family Car’. 
    • Language: signs on board are in Norwegian. Announcements are made in both English and Norwegian. 

    Apps

    • The Vy app allows you to download tickets and show them to the conductor. It’s much better than printing the ticket
    • The BaneNOR app allows you to track trains

    Taking photos

    • Bergen to Voss: Mostly the left side
    • Voss to Myrdal: Mostly the right side
    • Myrdal to Finse: Mostly the right side
    • Finse to Geilo: Mostly the right side
    • Geilo to Oslo: Both sides work well.

    For the photographers, the best places to take photos are in the doorways. At each stop, you can open the doors and take a quick snapshot. Just be wary of how long the train is stopping!

    Buss for tog

    If you see this, it means that part of the train journey has been replaced with a bus. It’s inconvenient but it happens if there’s work needed on the train. The bus doesn’t provide food or stops for toilets, so plan in advance.

    Luggage

    The train has very limited space for luggage. If you are breaking up the trip to do Norway in a Nutshell, I recommend having your luggage delivered to your hotel in Bergen or Oslo, depending on which direction you are going. Then take a small overnight bag on board the train with you. Check out the service ‘Porter Service’ (www.porterservice.no)

    Tunnel Reality

    There are over 180 tunnels on the Bergen Railway, so at times your view will be limited. This is very true in Western Norway; you must be quick with the camera!

    The journey: Bergen to Oslo

    Bergen

    City

    Bergen Station opened in 1913, four years after the Bergen Line was completed. Originally, the station was located further west (near where KODE 2 gallery is today). 

    At the time of construction, it was regarded as one of the grandest stations in Norway. The material used is granite and the style of construction is the National Romantic style. 

    As we leave Bergen, on the right side we’ll be able to see the city centre and the Lungegård Lake. 

    Bergen Travel Guide

    Ulriken Tunnel

    Tunnel

    The Ulriken Tunnel is the first tunnel we go through. The tunnel is relatively new; before then, the first 32km (20 mi) of the journey out of Bergen was very slow because the tracks navigated their way around the suburbs. Three tunnels were constructed to eliminate that part of the trip. The tunnels were completed in 1963, and the first train went through in 1964.

    The track is single track, which does create some traffic. A double track is planned. There is also a rumour that a road tunnel will be put through Mount Ulriken, which will eliminate the drive time from Arna down from 40 minutes to 10 minutes. 

    Tip: When we are in the Ulriken Tunnel, you lose internet signal. 

    Arna

    Borough
    • After the Ulriken Tunnel was completed in 1964, Arna station was constructed. The old Arna station still exists, and it is used for the heritage trains that operate on the old Voss Railway in the summer months (click here for more info). 

    Arna is a borough of Bergen with a population of 13,000. With the rumours of a road tunnel, Arna is becoming a more attractive place for people to live. 

    Osterøy

    Island

    After Arna, we begin travelling along the Osterfjord, which is on the left side. If you want to get some photos of the fjord you have to be quick – there are many, many tunnels on this part of the journey!

    The Osterfjord is around 27km (17 mi) long, 1 – 3km wide (0.62 – 1.86 mi) and the deepest point reaches a depth of 639m (2096ft) below sea level.

    On the other side is the island Osterøy. It is Norway’s largest inland island (i.e. not directly adjacent to the ocean) at 328km2 (127 sq mi).

    There are two road bridges that connect Osterøy to the mainland. We’ll pass one of them – the Osterøy Bridge – which is from 1997.

    Trengereid

    Village

    Trengereid is a small village that is still part of Bergen. The village is known for its fabrics factory, established in 1895. At one point, the Trengereid Fabrikker (1895-1999) was one of the major Norwegian manufacturers o lace, ribbon, cord and elastic. You can learn more about the factory on the Industrial Museum website.

    Trengereid is the starting point for many hikes on Bergen’s easternmost mountains, including the tallest mountain in Bergen municipality: Gullfjellet.

    On your right side will the the residential neighbourhood, high on the hillside. On your left will be the fjord, the old factories and the docking facilities.

    Only the Bergen – Voss railway stops here. The station was built in 1908.

    Get the Guide!

    We have a printer-friendly guide to the popular Norway in a Nutshell trip. This guide includes information about each point of interest, including historical overview and images. 

    You can find the guide over on our store. 

    View our guide

    Dale

    Village

    Dale is located on the western end of the Bergsdalen valley. The population is 1,193. Historically, Dale has been an industrial place. The town was built around the Dale Power Plant and the Dale Factories. When the factories were built around 1879, there was only one small farm. By the end of the 19th century, the factory had around 500 employees.

    On your right side, you’ll be able to see Dale Church (from 1956) as we approach the village. Also on the right side will be the Dale of Norway factory, a famous company that manufactures wool sweaters. There is also a textile mill here.

    The Dale Factory is open, and there is an outlet store if you want to buy a sweater or some yarn at a discounted price (the sweaters are famously expensive!). 

    The E16 (European Highway 16) runs through Dale. Dale Station is mostly used by the Bergen – Voss Railway, though some express trains do stop here. The station is from 1888.

    Voss

    Town

    The journey between Dale and Voss is very scenic, with a famous salmon river alongside side. 

    Eventually the tunnels end and the Voss Lake appears on our right-hand side. For most of the year, the mountains in the background will have snow on them. 

    With a population of 14,168, Voss is a large town and main hub for the region. It’s located between the Sognefjord and the Hardangerfjord, which has made it attractive for tourists. 

    Shortly on your right, just as the train approaches the station, is the Fleischer’s Hotel. The hotel was completed in 1889 in the Swiss Style. The name ‘Fleischer’ comes from a well-known family who have lived in Voss for many generations. The hotel is lovely, and if you want to break up the journey this is a highly recommended place to stay. Voss is a great place to spend a couple days – here’s the VisitNorway page for the town. 

    Voss Station was opened as the original terminal station of the Voss Line in 1883. It was on this platform that King Haakon officially opened the Bergen Railway on 27 November 1909.

    Sometimes the train will spend 10-20 minutes here before continuing. If that’s the case, you can leave the train and take some photos of the hotel and the troll statues that are along the platform.

    You will notice the huge Voss Gondola on the platform. This is a brand new attraction (completed in 2020), and if you go to the top you’ll have amazing views. Click here to view their website. 

    Shortly after leaving the station, you’ll pass the old Voss Church (Vangskyrkja). The church is from the mid-13th century and is built in a Gothic style. The whole region was Christianised by King Olav (Saint Olav), and the first church (a wooden church) was built shortly after that. This stone church replaced the old wooden church. Amazingly, the church was not destroyed during World War II.

    After the church, you’ll see the main downtown area of Voss. It’s very concrete and may seem unattractive. The reason for the concrete facades is the destruction from World War II. After the German invasion of Norway on 9 April 1940, Voss was the main place for the Norwegian Army in the West. The Nazis were met with strong resistance from the Norwegians here. To break down the resistance, the Luftwaffe bombed Voss on 23 and 24 April. The bombing completely destroyed the historic town centre. 

    Voss Travel Guide

    Mjølfjell

    Hiking Area

    Once we are out of Voss, the scenery begins to become more dramatic. The stretch between Voss and Myrdal takes us through a narrow, rocky valley. On your right will be spectacular views out to the mountains.

    We pass many stations along the way, but the train very rarely stops there. Sometimes they do if someone on board has requested the train stop. One such station that may have a stop is Mjølfjell.

    Mjølfjell is a village with mostly cabins – in total, there are about 500 cabins here. Most are used as vacation homes by people from Bergen. The area is very popular for hiking and skiing. In the village you’ll find a grocery store, a chapel, and a military training facility.

    The area grew after the establishment of the Bergen Line. There used to be a number of mountain hotels here. One still stands: the Mjølfjell Mountain Lodge. It is a high-end hotel with an outdoor pool, sauna, hiking trails, ski resort, and much more. Mjølfjell does have road access: the road actually ends here. All the following platforms have no road access.

    The name Mjølfjell refers to the mountain: the colour of the white anorthosite looks like flour, which in Norwegian is mjøl. So the name is ‘Flour Mountain’.

    Upsete

    Hiking Area

    Much like Mjølfjell, Upsete is another place the train may stop at if it’s requested. Upsete does not have a road access. There is a lovely place to stay: Upsete Fjellstove. The hotel is open in the summer and offers hikes and bikes that you can ride on the Rallarvegen.

    The train station opened in 1908 as Opset Station; the name Upsete came in 1921.

    Myrdal

    Junction with the Flåm Railway

    Myrdal is a tiny station but it is very well known due to its location. Myrdal is one end of the famous Flåm Railway – the train journey down to the Flåm village is often regarded as one of the most beautiful train journeys in the world.

    The connection to Flåm was not intended for tourists; rather, it was established to link the Sognefjord to the main Bergen – Oslo train and transport goods and people up from the fjord region. Originally, the connection was supposed to go from Voss down to Gudvangen. In 1908, the decision was made to have the train go from Myrdal to Flåm. They estimated that 22,000 passengers would use the train a year. In 2008, the passenger count was almost 600,000!

    The majority of people who come to Myrdal don’t spend long here; instead they use it as a place to change trains. There is no road connection to Myrdal.

    People did used to live in Myrdal; there are remains of old iron ore mining and animal husbandry. Nobody lives here anymore, though some do own cabins here.

    The station is located between two tunnels on the Bergen Line: The Gravahals Tunnel to the west and the Vatnahalsen Tunnel to the east.

    Myrdal has three platforms. Platform 1 is the principal platform on the mainline, and platform 2 is the alternative mainline platform located on the passing loop. The non-consecutively numbered platform 11 is the platform used by local trains to and from Flåm. The passing loop allows regional trains to cross with freight trains. At the station you’ll find toilets, a cafeteria, a souvenir shop, and a waiting room. The shops are only open in summer.

    Tip:  As we leave Myrdal, keep your eyes on the left. For a few seconds we’ll be able to see down the entire Flåm Valley. It’s just before going into a tunnel!

    Flåm Travel Guide

    Hallingskied

    Hiking Area

    Hallingskeid is the westernmost station of the high mountain stations. It is regarded as one of the snowiest areas on the Bergen Railway. Due to the ewather, the station is located inside a ‘snow superstructure’. These structures are built over railways to protect them from snow in the most exposed areas. A total of 9.5km of the Bergen Railway has a snow superstructure; mostly in Hallingskeid.

    There are no permanent residents at Hallingskeid; the station is operated remotely. In he area are many hiking trails, the Rallarvegen cycle path, and cabins.

    The train will stop here upon request. 

    Get the Guide!

    We have a printer-friendly guide to the popular Norway in a Nutshell trip. This guide includes information about each point of interest, including historical overview and images. 

    You can find the guide over on our store. 

    View our guide

    Finse Tunnel

    Tunnel

    Just before we get to Finse will be the Finse Tunnel. It is the longest tunnel on the Bergen Railway: 10,589m! (6.5 mi). The tunnel was built to ensure the train could operate all winter. The highest point on the Bergen Railway, 1237m above sea level (4058ft), is passed while we are inside the tunnel.

    Tip: As we leave the tunnel, keep an eye out on the right-hand side for a view of the glacier. If the weather is good, you’ll be able to see it here.

    Finse

    Highest Point

    We’ve made it to Finse! Finse is the highest station on the Bergen Railway and is known across Norway for its plethora of outdoor activities.

    Haugastøl

    Hiking Area

    Haugastøl is another high mountain station that can be stopped at upon request. The station has been unattended since 1997. The station is designed in a mix between the National Romantic Style and Art Nouveau and is from 1908. Haugastøl was originally known as Fjellberg, Norway’s highest altitude farm. People lived there until 1909, and today it is a holiday home.

    Haugastøl marks the end point of the Rallarvegen in the west.

    Geilo

    Ski Town

    Geilo is a small town with around 2,400 people living there. It’s located in the Hallingdal valley, a traditional region in Eastern Norway. Before the train came to Geilo, the area was remote with a few scattered farms.

    Geilo was established as a town when the Bergen Line was constructed. The train facilitated Geilo’s development as the first skiing resort in the country, and it is still one of the largest. It is also known for having some of the most luxurious and expensive holiday cabins in Norway.

    The ski season in Geilo runs from late October to late April, and there are numerous ski centres here for alpine and cross country skiing. Click here for more information about visiting Geilo. 

    Shortly after leaving Geilo, we pass the old Hol station from 1911. Hol Municipality is the largest municipality in Hallingdal, and 91% of the area is located at more than 900m above sea level. 

    The train continues to decrease dramatically. 

    Geilo Travel Guide

    Ål

    Village

    Ål is a small town with around 5,000 people living here. There is a strong cultural tradition here, and folk music is important to the community. The Folkemusikkveka is held every May. The traditional industry here is mostly farming. Many livestock farms ae in operation with small herds of sheep, dairy cattle, and goats. Crop growing is difficult because of the steep valley walls.

    Ål station is served by six express trains, and the station has historic locomotive stables that are protected by the Directorate of Cultural Heritage.

    We are roughly at the midpoint of the Bergen Railway. The train is now 228km from Oslo and 243km from Bergen.

    After Ål, the scenery begins to flatten with forests, rivers, and modest mountain areas. We pass Torpo Station, which used to be the central station in Hallingdal. The station is built in the Art Nouveau style and is identical to the station we saw at Geilo. One of the big attractions here is the Torpo Stave Church.

    Click here for the Ål Tourist Info Site. 

    Gol

    Village

    Gol is part of the Hallingdal Valley. There was a very ancient settlement here; in the year 1000, there were around 26 farms in Gol.

    Gol is located at the crossroads between the E7, Highway 52, and County Road 51, which takes you to Fagernes and the E16. From Gol, you have excellent connections to Valdres, Hemsedal, Laerdal and Sogn.

    Gol does have an industrial feel to it, but there are some fun things to do here as well. The Gordarike Family Park is a theme park designed around the Viking Era. A modern replica of the Gol Stave Church has been built as a tourist attraction in the park. Gol used to have a real stave church, but in the 19th century they sold it to the Oslo Folk Museum, where it currently stands. There’s also an open-air museum located in Gol. It is built around an old farm and consists of barns, lofts and wooden stables plus a mill, school and cabin.

    The station is from 1907 and is a busy station. Historically, this was a junction and important trading centre with heavy traffic.

    The station is served by up to six dailway express trains. This station opened in 1907.

    Just after the train leaves Gol, there are many farms located up on the valley side.

    Get the Guide!

    We have a printer-friendly guide to the popular Norway in a Nutshell trip. This guide includes information about each point of interest, including historical overview and images. 

    You can find the guide over on our store. 

    View our guide

    Nesbyen

    Town

    Nesbyen is a small town with a population of around 3,500. It has a historic town centre, called Gamle Nes. Most buildings here are from before 1900. The area was mentioned in documents from the 1600s, when the valley of Hallingdal was ruled from Nesbyen. Here’s a nice self-guided walk around Nesbyen. 

    One of the big attractions here is the Hallingdal Museum, which is one of the oldest open-air museums in Norway (from 1899). It has a large collection of wold buildings; the oldest one is the staveloftet from 1340. Another popular place to visit is the old meteor crater just noth of the town. About 650 million years ago, a 200-300m meteorite struck the area.

    There are many outdoor activities to do here. The most popular hike is up Hallingnatten, which is 1314m above sea level. From the top you can see most of Southern Norway, including Jotunheimen in the north and Gaustatoppen in the southwest.

    Nesbyen is known around Norway for having the highest recorded temperature in the country. The record was 35.6C, recorded on 20 June 1970.

    The E7 is located along Nesbyen, which is built over an ancient trade route from Valdres through to Odda in Western Norway.

    The station is served by up to six daily express trains. This station opened in 1907. Trains often stop here. This used to be a central station equipped with turntable for turning locomotives and several industrial tracks.

    Just after Nesbyen is the railway’s longest straight stretch. There are dense forest on both sides of the train. The railway follows the eastern side of the Hallingdal River, while the national highway is on the opposite side.

    Tip: Keep an eye out for the Austvoll Water Tower on the right. In the era of steam locomotives, these water towers were common along the railway. The train had to stop often to replenish so the pressure on the boiler didn’t fail.

    Flå

    Town

    Flå is the last settlement we’ll pass in the Hallingdal valley. Like Nesbyen and Ål, it’s located on the ancient trade route that went through Valdres to Odda in Western Norway. Flå has a population of around 1,000.

    Flå is surorunded by stunning nature. There are forests, agriculture, and mountains as high as 1500m. Flå’s coat-of-arms is the head of a black bear. Close to the town is the conservation area where Norway’s last permanent bear population lived. Today you can see bears in Flå if you visit the Bear Park, which is popular with kids. They don’t just have bears; they also have elk, deer, wolf and lynx.

    The station is served by up two daily express trains. This station opened in 1907. We don’t see much of the village from the station because it’s about 1km away.

    After leaving Flå, we follow the Hallingdal River. Eventually we’ll start passing the Krøder Lake, which was named “Norway’s finest Lake” by Fridtjof Nansen. 

    Hønefoss

    Town

    Hønefoss is a large town and central hub with a population of around 14,000. The town name comes from the waterfall that runs through the town; you will get a glimpse of it as the train leaves the station. The town experienced huge growth during the beginning of industrialisation; the waterfall was exploited for power and sawmills went up in the region. The railway to Drammen was also important for the industrial town.

    Hønefoss is located on the E16, which is the main highway between Bergen and Oslo. It’s also connected to the Norwegian National Road 35 and the National Road 7. The town is located to several factories, including Norske Skog Follum, which works in the timber industry.

    There are many things to see and do in Hønefoss. One of the highlights is the Ringerikes Museum, which is known for its collection of iron, rune stones, and for holding the private collection of Jørgen Engebretsen Moe. Jørgen was a Norwegian author best known for writing a collection of Norwegian folkales which he edited in collaboration with Peter Christen Asbjørnsen. The Norwegian Train Museum is also located here, where the old locomotives are. In cooperation with the Norwegian Railway Club, it is working on the restoration, maintenance and operation of all railway equipment.

    By the station is one of the country’s largest stone vault bridges, built in granite.

    The stretch of railway between Drammen and Hønefoss was completed in 1868 and was used primarily for cargo.

    The idea of a railway between Drammen and Hønefoss was launched in 1846, before any other railways were constructed in Norway. However, nothing happened for a long time. In fact, even the idea of a canal was floated. In 1863, Parliament approved construction of a line between Hønefoss and Drammen. The railway was completed in 1868. The next plan was the Bergen Line, which opened in 1909.

    The region we are in is called Ringerike. It is rich in history and ancient culture. The region has a rich food culture, and the Ringerikspotatoes are quite famous.

    After we leave the station, we’ll be going alongside Tyrifjord’s western side. Tyrifjord is actually the country’s fifth largest lake, and the maximum depth is about 330m. There are 13 fish species in the lake, making it known for its rich fisheries. 

    Vikersund

    Town

    Vikersund is a small town with a population of around 3,200. Historically, the town has been important for the paper industry. Timber was floated down on the Tyrifjord to the Drammen River, where it could then be exported.

    Today Vikersund is known amongst Norwegians for its Ski Jumping Centre. The Vikersund Ski Jump is the world’s largest, and there are seven different slopes within the complex.

    Vikersund was part of the Krøder Railway, which was completed in 1872 and primarily used for industry and transporting passengers. In the summer they operate special steam trains that you can ride.

    After Vikkersund the train passes several old industrial sites that grew up along the river when industrial travel took over towards the end of the 19th century.

    Hokksund

    Town

    Hokksund is a small community that was built up around an old farm. Part of the growth of the town can be attributed to the nearby silver mines at Kongsberg. When silver was discovered in Kongsberg in 1623, the King decided that a road should be built between Kongsberg and Hokksund. This road is the first official road in Norway.

    The railway came to Hokksund in 1866, and this gave way to the development of the local business community. Several businesses still stand along the railway track. The original station burned down in 1897, and the new one was finished a year later. The station is designed in a monumental masonry style, and it is the oldest and best preserved station on this part of the journey.

    After Hokksund, you go across the plainlands of the Drammen Valley. The Drammen river is on our left.

    Drammen

    City

    Drammen is a large city with around 60,000 people living here. The city is located west of the Oslofjord on the Drammen River. Drammen was built up as a trading and industrial city; keep an eye out on the left as we go through Drammen; you’ll see beautiful old factories and the town centre.

    The station opened in 1866 when the railway between Hønefoss and Drammen was completed. From Drammen, you can change trains and take the Sørlandet Line towards Kristiansand and Stavanger.The station is also served by trains to Oslo, Kongsberg and Eidsvoll, regional trains on the Vestfold Line and express trains to Bergen and Kristiansand. Since 2009, it has been the terminus of the Oslo Airport Express train.

    The station has recently been modernised and expanded.

    Shortly after leaving Drammen, we pass the Drammensfjord on the right and the hill area towards Finnemarka on the right. This is one of the most fertile areas in the country.

    Sandvika

    Neighbourhood

    The train may stop at Sandvika. Sandvika has had city status since 2003. The Crown Prince’s residence is at Skaugum. The site goes back to the Middle Ages. It was handed to Prince Olav in 1929, and today it is private property of the royal family, unlike the Royal Palace and OscarsHall, which is owned by the state.

    Oslo Tunnel

    Tunnel

    The last part of our journey is not very scenic: we have to make our way to the other end of Oslo city centre, and to do that we must go through the Oslo Tunnel. The Oslo tunnel is about 3.6km long and opened in 1980, the same time as the Oslo Central Station. Before this, Oslo had two stations: Oslo East and Oslo West. As you can imagine, it was not very practical. Today Oslo West is the Nobel Peace Centre, while Oslo East has been expanded into Oslo Central Station.

    Oslo

    City

    You have made it to Oslo! You can find my guide to Oslo by clicking the button below. 

    Oslo Travel Guide

    Get the Guide!

    We have a printer-friendly guide to the popular Norway in a Nutshell trip. This guide includes information about each point of interest, including historical overview and images. 

    You can find the guide over on our store. 

    View our guide