Hønefoss

  • Drive it Yourself: Oslo to Bergen on the E16

    Drive it Yourself: Oslo to Bergen on the E16

    The E16 between Oslo and Bergen follows the historic road between east and west Norway that has existed for thousands of years. Over the centuries the road has gradually been modernised, but traces of the past remain.

    While the E16 is the longer way between the two cities, the road is lined with historic monuments, including stave churches, runestones, and lodgings. It makes for a great, scenic road-trip!

    Here’s our guide to the E16 highway. 

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    The Drive: Oslo to Bergen on the E16

    This drive begins in Oslo. 

    Oslo Travel Guide

    Read more about Oslo, Norway’s capital, on our dedicated travel guide page. Click the button below. 

    Sandvika

    Neighbourhood

    The first neighbourhood you drive through is called Sandvika. While it is technically part of Oslo city, it is in many ways regarded as its own community. The population is approximately 130,000.

    Claude Monet visited the city in 1895. During his visit, he painted the city. Perhaps the most famous work from this visit is “Sandviken Village in Snow”, which shows the Løkka Bridge in the foreground with the hill Kolsås in the background. The bridge still stands today.

    The area of Sandvika has existed since for thousands of years. The Sandvik grounds were rich fishing grounds that provided an important supplement to the farms in Sandvika.

    Sandvika is home to Scandinavia’s largest super mall – the Sandvika Storsenter – with 190 stores and a total area of 60,000 square metres or 650,000 square feet.

    Hole Municipality

    The municipality of Hole is situated around the Tyrifjord, where the soil is fertile and suited to growing fruit, berries, and other agricultural products. The coat-of-arms depicts the four Norwegian Kings who lived in the municipality in the 9th to 11th centuries. The most famous of the four is St. Olav (Olav Haraldsson), though Harald Hårdrade is a close second for fame – he was the one credited with ending the Viking Age at the Battle of Stamford Bridge in 1066. The other three kings are Halvdan Svarte (820-860), Sigurd Syr (-1018), and Harald Hardråde (1015-1066). Harald Hardråde is the king who lost at the Battle of Stamford Bridge in 1066, which is considered to be the event when the Viking Age ended.

    Hole is important in Norwegian history. Archaeological finds from the Roman and Migration periods are numerous, and Hole is known as one of the traditional landscapes from the Viking Age and plays a prominent role in the Norse sagas.

    Stein Church Ruins (Stein Kirkeruin) are located at Steinsfjorden. The church was constructed in the latter half of the 1100s. By the second half of the 1500s, the chapel was no longer in use. There are some historic churches in the area: Bønsnes Church is a medieval church from 1100 and Hole Church is probably from 1200.

    Utøya

    Memorial

    As you drive along the Tyrifjord, down on your left is the island Utøya. This was the site of the terrorist attack that happened in Norway in 2011. It is possible to take a detour down to the memorial site. On GPS it is marked as “Minnesmerke Utøya”.

    Tyrifjord

    Lake

    The Tyrifjord is a lake (not a fjord like the name suggests). It is the fifth largest large in Norway with an area of 139km2 and a maximum depth of 295m. It is one of Norway’s most species-rich lakes. The lake used to be part of the sea, but as the land has risen it has become landlocked. In the fjord, free fishing without a licence is accepted based on tradition and custom. Brown trout is caught in the lake, though crayfish is also popular. 

    Sundvollen

    Village

    Sundvollen is a village located along the eastern part of the Tyrifjord. The name comes from the name of a farm that used to be here. Sundvollen is most noted for its hotels. Sundvolden Hotel is one of Norway’s oldest hotels – it was mentioned in written sources dating from 1648. Kleivstua Hotel was a coaching inn in 1780 which catered to travellers going between Christiania (Oslo) and Ringerike. It is on the Old Royal Bergen Road, the historic road between Oslo and Hadeland. The road is also part of the Old Pilgrims Route from Oslo to Trondheim. Understandably, there were many travellers coming through here. They would stop at one of the hotels for food, accommodations, and to give their horses a rest. Unfortunately both of the hotels have been renovated extensively, so there’s no trace of the original lodgings. 

    Petroglyphs from the Bronze Age have been found approximately 100m from the E16 and show ship figures, circuit figures and bowl pits. 

    In Sundvollen you can hike to “Kongens Utsikt”, a scenic viewpoint overlooking the Tyrifjord. 

    Norderhov Church

    Historic Church

    Norderhov Church is a medieval church that was built in 1170. The church is built in local sandstone and limestone in a Romanesque style of architecture. The church was built on a former pagan court for the god Njord, and that’s where the name Norderhob comes from. The church was historically the most important church in Ringerike. 

    Across the road from the church is Norderhov’s old rectory, which is now the Ringerike Museum. The museum has runestones and its collection of the private belongings of Jørgen Engebretsen Moe, a Norwegian author most famous for ‘Norske Folkeeventyr”, a collection of Nowegian folk tales which he edited in collaboration with Peter Christen Asbjørnsen. 

    The church and vicarage are known for their close association with the vicar’s wife Anna Colbjørnsdatter (1667-1736), who legend says tricked the Swedes by getting the Colonel drunk. This gave the far smaller Norwegian-Danish force an opportunity to inflict a defeat on the Swedes. This was in connection with the Battle of Norderhov in 1716. She then received heroine status and is one of the very few female heroes in Norwegian history. She was married to historian and parish priest Jonas Ramus and they are in the crypt under the church. Her portrait can be seen inside the church. The pulpit is from 1582 and is considered one of Norway’s oldest preserved pulpits. 

    Hønefoss Travel Guide

    You don’t drive through Hønefoss on the E16; it is approximately a five-minute drive into the town. However, this is the first major town that you pass on the drive, so it can be a useful rest stop. 

    Hønefoss is regarded as the centre of Ringerike. The town is located by a waterfall and is founded on the sawmill business that arose from the waterfall in the 17th century. Hønefoss is home to several factories and other industry, with Norske Skog Follum, a timber company, having its headquarters here. Dating from 1873, Norske Skog Follum was one of the largest producers of newsprint in Europe until it closed in 2012. 

    Follum

    Village

    Follum is a small village after Hønefoss on the western side of the Ådal River. It is on the old road that led to the Ådal Valley. The name comes from the oldest farm in the area. 

    Ådal Valley

    Valley

    You are now driving through the Ådal Valley. 

    The first church built in Ådal was a stave church built during the 15th century. It is mentioned in the Diplomatarium Norvegicum in 1462. The church was eventually removed to make way for a larger, more modern church. 

    Viker Church is located on the western shore of the Sperillen Lake and is from 1702. The pulpit, altar and crucifers from the old stave church are inside Viker Church. 

    Valdres Natur og Kulturpark

    Preserve

    You are now entering the traditional district of Valdres, which is situated between the Gudbrandsdal and Hallingdal valleys. The river Begna runs through the municipality. 

    The traditional Valdres region is located approximately halfway between Oslo and Bergen. The valley has the Jotunheimen mountains to the west and the north. Historically, Valdres has been an agricultural economy, but tourism is becoming more important – especially for skiing. 

    Sør-Aurdal Municipality

    The name comes from the valley in which it is located. The coat-of-arms represents a medieval reliquary that is based on the one found at Hedal Stave Church. It has two dragons heads in the design since Sør-Aurdal is one of only two municipalities in Norway that have two stave churches that are still in use. The colour blue represents the two river systems that have historically been important for the logging industry and sawmills. 

    Olav Haraldsson, later St. Olav, travelled through Valdres in 1023 and visited Reinli. At the time, there was a pagan temple at the same location where the stave church stands. 

    One of the highlights of the municipality is Hedalen Stave Church was built in 1160 but rebuilt in 1699. An old legend says that the valley was abandoned during the Black Death and the church was discovered by a bear hunter. A hide is hanging in the church, although there is only a small part of it left as visitors have cut away pieces over the years. We will pass the turnoff for it a little later. 

    Bagn
    Village

    Bagn is the administrative centre of Sør-Aurdal. This area saw extensive fighting during World War II as advancing German forces were stopped in Bagn. The battles in the valley were extensive. 

    In Bagn you can find the Bagn Bygdesamling, a small museum that includes farmhouses, a sawmill, a flour mill, and other buildings. The museum is on a preserved farm. Next to Bagn Church is an intact shop from 1881, which may have been the largest business in Valdres. The shop is open during the summer holidays and before Christmas. 

    Bagn Church is the main church in the valley and seats 350 people. The earliest church in the area was mentioned in 1327, but the church was not new that year. The first church was likely a wooden stave church from the 13th century. The old church was closed in 1683 and for some time the locals had to use Reinli Stave Church. The church that we see today is the second church and dates to 1736. 

    Nord-Aurdal Municipality

    The coat-of-arms for Nord-Aurdal depicts three blue flowers called ‘Snow Gentian’. The flowers are locally known as ‘the blue eyes of Christ’ and grow all over Norway but grow abundantly in this area. They represent the three main settlements of the municipality: Aurdal, Fagernes, and Leira. This is a fairly mountainous municipality. The highest point is 1,325m (4,347ft) high and about 50% of the land is above 900m (3000ft).

    Aurdal
    Village

    Aurdal is a small village with a population of around 647. The village is known for its winter sports activities and is in Valdres’ Alpine Centre. There are several places to stay and eat. There used to be a railway here – the Valdresbanen – but it stopped in 1888. 

    Just after Aurdal is the Noraker Gård. This farm is currently being run by the 12th century. Rakfisk is a highly desirable food from this farm, and in 2022 they won the expert jury award at the Norwegian Rakfisk Festival. In 2006, Rakfisk from Valdres was approved as a protected geographical indication. This means that only fish hatched, reared, and processed in Valdres can be sold under the Rakfisk fra Valdres brand. 

    They have a farm shop that also sells trout, mustard, beer, moose, goat, and art. 

    Rakfisk is a dish made from trout or char where it is salted and autolyzed for two or three months. It is then eaten without cooking and has a strong smell and pungen salty flavour. After the fish is gutted and rinsed, it is placed in a bucket and salt. It is then placed under pressure with a lid that fits down into the bucket and a weight on top. A brine is formed as the salt draws moisture from the fish. The rakfisk bucket is stored at under 5 degreesC for one to three months. The finished product doesn’t need cooking. 

    Fagernes

    Fagernes is a major hub along the E16.

    The word ‘Fagernes’ is a combination of ‘fager’ (beautiful) and ‘nes’ (headland). The town was established in 1857, when the first trading operations started. The first hotel started operations in 1875, and from 1906 there was a train line (it has since closed). 

    If you are travelling in November, you may be in town for the Norwegian Rakfisk Festival, which takes place in the first week of the month. 

    In Fagernes is the Valdres Folkmuseum, a well-known museum that shows the culture of the Valdres region. It is both an indoor and outdoor museum. 

    Ulnes Church

    Historic Church

    Ulnes Church is a beautiful church that you’ll pass shortly after leaving Fagernes. The earliest records of the church go back to 1307, but it was not new that year. Estimates say that the church was built around the year 1265 as its architecture reflects the transition between Romanesque and Gothic architecture. 

    In 1675, there were plans to replace it with a new wooden church as it was decaying, but thankfully that didn’t happen. Around 1720, the church was put out of use. It was described in 1733 by a bishop as “a pile of stones” with only the choir being suitable to keep. The church was restored in 1737, with the nave being demolished and rebuilt. The interior was also refurbished. 

    Vestre Slidre Municipality

    The next municipality is Vestre Slidre. The municipality is partly named after the historic Slidre Church, which you’ll see soon. The coat-of-arms are based on a heraldic decoration found in the Slidredomen church that dates to 1170. The design was originally part of a seal that belonged to a medieval nobleman in the area. The meaning of the design is unknown. 

    Vestre Slidre is mentioned in the Old Norse sagas. Harald Fairhair, who became the first King of Norway (872-930), did some conquests over petty kingdoms. One of the encounters that led to the overall conquest was with Skallagrim Kveldulvssøn in Vestre Slidre. Also, in 1023, King Olav Haraldsson came to the area to Christianise the people. The locals were caught unaware, and Olav took all their boats. They would only get them back if they accepted Christianity, which they did. 

    Lastly, in 2000 Sami gamme huts (a simple form of a hut) were found in the municipality. This is the southernmost discovery of Sami settlements.

    Slidre

    Village

    Slidre is the next village on the E16. It has a population of around 337. 

    In Slidre you can see the Vestre Slidre Church (Slidredomen), a historic stone church from around 1170. The church is built in the Romanesque style of architecture and the stone walls are approximately 160cm (63 inches) thick. 

    The church is unique in that it doesn’t have a west portal. Instead, the main entrance is from the south.

    The furniture is from the 18th century, while there are frescoes from the 15th century. The choir has a painted wooden vault from the 14th century, which depicts Jesus Christ in the mandorla centrally in the middle. On the north wall, a medieval coat-of-arms has been uncovered and is used as Vestre Slidre’s coat-of-arms. 

    The area here is very old. Above the village of Slidre is an ancient burial ground called the ‘Gardberg Site’. Here you can see the Einangsteinen runestone. It is believed to be from the 4th century and is considered the oldest runestone in the Nordics that is standing in its original place. The name Einang comes from a nearby farm. 

    Lomen Stave Church

    Lomen Stave Church is from around the year 1192. The church is a pillar stave church, meaning the main room has four supporting stave beams. The style and decoration of the church is part of the “Valdres-Sogn” stave churches. This groups many of the churches from Valdres Valley and around the Sognefjord that have the same features. Considering the old King’s Road used to run through the valley to Sogn, they likely shared design tips.

    Like all stave churches, Lomen Stave Chuch has fallen victim to modernisation and renovation. The choir is from a major renovation in the 1750s. During this time, the walls were also expanded to make the main room larger.

    During the last refurbishment, archaeological excavations uncovered 71 artefacts, including jewellery and coins. The oldest coin found here is from King Sverre’s time, 1177-1202.

    Today the church, neighbouring bell tower and cemetery are under protection. Many original features of the church remain, despite major renovations. The most illustrative are the portals, which have decorations of dragons, vines, and animal heads. Some of the portals have moved around the church, but they do date back to medieval times. These kinds of decorations are common on Valdres-Sogn stave churches. The roof and wall timbers are also original.

    Vang Municipality

    Vang is a small municipality in the traditional Valdres region. The name comes from an old farm, though vang comes from the Old Norse word vangr meaning ‘field’ or ‘meadow’. The coat-of-arms are rather special – they are based on historic descriptions and depictions of the personal arms of a local medieval nobleman called Sigvat of Leirhol. He was named as one of the members of the delegation that followed King Håkon V Magnusson to Copenhagen in 1309. He then became the governor of Valdres. His coat-of-arms can also be seen on Vang Church. 

    The municipality was originally populated by migrants from Western Norway. 

    The ancient Vang Church was the site of a legal court held by King Håkon VI in 1368. 

    Høre Stave Church

    Høre Stave Church is one of the stave churches with an insight into the fascinating past of Norway. Especially around and shortly after the time of the Civil War in the 12th and early 13th century. We know that the Christianisation of Valdres wasn’t easy. St. Olav, then King Olav, came from the west through the valley. He held farmers hostage and burnt down farms until they agreed to convert. According to the Sagas, Olav had churches built and clergymen appointed. None of these churches remains, but many of the stave churches are on the same spot, including Høre Stave Church.

    In medieval times, Valdres had many churches. There were at least 21 of them; 18 of which were stave churches. To compare, the neighbouring valley Hallingdal had 8 stave churches. Sadly very few remain today. 

    Judging from the rune inscriptions found inside the church and dating the timber, Høre Stave Church is from around 1179. It was originally a pillar church, with four corner staves. Under the church are graves, some of them children. It wasn’t allowed but common to bury children under stave churches. As they had not been baptised yet, the parents worried the children would not be accepted into heaven. Some foetuses were also found under the church. There is evidence of ceremonial burials under the church, likely from pre-Christian times.

    The original stave church somewhat exists today; all that remains is its skeleton. The skeleton is hidden by the cladding. The ship is still the original size, giving a sign of the original size of the church room.

    Vang i Valdres

    The word ‘vang’ comes from an old farm that stood here; this farm is also where the first church stood. Vang, like the rest of the Valdres Valley, was populated by migrants from Western Norway. People have lived in this valley (Vangr means meadow or field) for thousands of years. This is likely due to its proximity between east and west Norway. Vang is by a lake just before the mountain pass to Western Norway and thus made for a good rest stop.

    Vang became the site of a legal court (ting in Norwegian), and the ancient stave church was next to the site. The site was famously used by King Haakon VI in 1368 when he was settling a boundary dispute.

    Vang also became part of the ancient royal road between Bergen and Oslo. In the 16th century, it was the postal road, and from the 18th century, it was Kongevegen. Kongevegen was the first road for horse and cart between East and West, and I’ve covered it on my page for the E16. Today, the highway follows the same path as Kongevegen. Still, the town and nearby area became a place where travellers would seek refuge at some point on their journey. 

    The Vang Stone is clearly marked and is by the E16. Parking is available across the street. 

    Øye Stave Church

    Øye Stave Church is one of the smallest and oldest stave churches in Norway. It is likely from some time during the second half of the 12th century. The church is first mentioned in written documents in 1347. It stood by the old traffic road over Filefjell, which was the first road between Bergen and Oslo.

    Kongevegen

    Historic Road

    As you may have noticed by now, there are a number of churches and important historic sites along the E16. This is because the E16 follows one of the ancient crossings between east and west Norway. It is called ‘Kongevegen’ (The Kings Road). The road is ancient and is believed to have been the first way between east and west. The first postal road was laid here in 1647, and the road received official status in 1791. 

    Ever since people have lived in Norway has this been the most useful route between east and east. A number of tracks show traffic throughout the Stone Age and Bronze Age. The road was also important in the Christianisation of Norway, as is evident in the large number of churches along the road. Many ancient farms here also became inns for travellers, and some survive today. In the Middle Ages, the road was known as the most difficult and dangerous in the country. As many Danish public servants were travelling between Bergen and Christiania (Oslo), it was decided to modernize the road in the 17th century. The road was built as straight as possible and became known as the Royal Postal Road. Most of the trip was done on foot. 

    In the 18th century, travelling with horse and carriage became more common, so it was decided to modernise the road again. In 1791, the official road was completed and Kongevegen became the first carriage road between east and west Norway. The road was built by hand. Today the E16 skips many of the most difficult parts with tunnels, but parts of the old road remain and are now a popular hiking trail. In 2017, Kongevegen was awarded the EU’s most important cultural heritage award, Europa Nostra. 

    It is possible to spend the night in one of the many lodges over the mountains and do short or long hikes. 

    Tyinkrysset

    Village

    Tyinkrysset is a village located in the Filefjell mountains, which is where the historic crossing between east and west Norway was. The village sits at an elevation of around 900 metres (3,000 feet). This area is popular with hikers. You’ll find some hotels up in the area. 

    Filefjellet Mountains

    Mountains

    You are now crossing the Filefjellet mountain range across to Western Norway. It has been an important crossing path between east and west Norway since ancient times. The highest peaks are 1013m above sea level. 

    The E16 follows a lot of the same path as the old road. 

    Lærdal Municipality

    Lærdal is the first municipality in Vestland county. Lærdal has a dry climate, with 420mm – 600mm of rainfall annually in the inhabited areas. Through the valley runs the Lærdalselvi, or the Laerdal River, known as the ‘Queen of the Salmon Rivers’. It is one of the country’s most famous large salmon rivers. The valleys have opportunities for hunting deer, reindeer, and elk. The valley was inhabited and used by humans as far back as 6,000 years ago. In places, the vally has been used since the Early Stone Age. In the mountains are the first traces of people in the mountain areas of Norway.

    Lærdal has always been the main road between east and west Norway. The area where the village Lærdalsøyri is developed as a marketplace in the Middle Ages. Coastal farmers brought herring and fish and exchanged goods with mountain farmers from Valdres. At least five generations of road structure remain in the Lærdal valley, which proves the valleys important function as a hub. Lærdal has a long tradition with agriculture. The lower part of the valley has one of the country’s best climatic conditions for growing vegetables. Early production of potatoes and vegetables is important. 

    Borlaug

    Village

    The next village is Borlaug. This is where the E16 joins with Highway 52, which runs over the Hemsedal mountains (it’s an alternative way between Oslo and Bergen). You’ll pass some old farmhouses on the right as you drive through the village. 

    Borgund

    Village

    Borgund is a mountain village. It has been an important spot on the journey between east and west Norway for hundreds of years. There are several farms in the village and agriculture is the main industry here. 

    Borgund Stave Church

    Borgund Stave Church is the most famous of Norway’s 28 remaining stave churches. The exact age of Borgund Stave Church is unknown. It is possibly as old as 1150 when looking at the timber. However, the church is generally regarded as being from around the year 1200. It is dedicated to the apostle Andrew.

    The church is fascinating; a visit to it should not be missed. The church is open in the summer for tourists for a small fee. Check their website for more information. 

    Lærdal

    You will bypass the village of Lærdal on the E16, but it’s a worthwhile detour to drive into the village. Lærdal is a historic trading place on the old postal route between Oslo and Bergen. It was where the travellers would leave their horses behind and take boats the rest of the way to Bergen. Lærdal is also a fantastic place for trying the foods from the Sognefjord region, including potatoes, berries, and cider. 

    You can read about Lærdal on our dedicated travel guide page. 

    Aurlandsfjellet Tourist Road

    In the summer months, it’s possible to take the Aurlandsfjellet Tourist Road across to Aurland instead of going through the tunnel. 

    Lærdal Tunnel

    Tunnel

    Welcome to the world’s longest road tunnel! The Lærdal Tunnel is 24.5km (15.2 miles) long. The tunnel was constructed between 1995 and 2000 and cost $113 million USD. The tunnel does not have emergency exits; there are emergency phones every 250 metres as well as 15 turning areas for buses and semi-trailers. There are rooms in the tunnel with food and supplies in case anyone gets stuck in there. The tunnel has high air quality through ventilation and purification. 

    It incorporates features to help manage the mental strain on drivers. Every 6km there is a cave to separate sections of the road. The lighting varies throughout the tunnel and caves to break the routine.

    Aurland Municipality

    Aurland municipality is perhaps one of the most visited municipalities in Norway. After all, it is home to the famous Flåm village as well as the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Nærøyfjord. The main industry in Aurland is agriculture, with goats’ cheese being an important product from here. Tourism is also a major industry. 

    Aurland

    It is worth driving into the village of Aurland. In many ways, it is more charming than Flåm. Aurland is home to Vangen Church, a historic stone church from 1202. The fact that it is built in stone and not wood signifies that the area must’ve been of importance around the time it was built. Aurland is also home to the Aurland Shoe Factory, where the pennyloafer was invented.

    Flåm

    Located at the end of the Aurlandfjord, a branch of the Sognefjord, Flåm is a gorgeous little village. Many people come to Flåm to do the Flåm Railway, regarded as the most beautiful train journey in the world. This train journey goes from Flåm through the valley and up the mountains to Myrdal, located close to the Hardangervidda National park. Myrdal is also where you board the train to Bergen or Oslo. Besides the train ride, there’s a gorgeous ferry journey from Flåm to Gudvangen. It takes you on the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Nærøyfjord – something you shouldn’t miss.

    Flåm has a population of 350, though on a summer day there will be several thousand people in the village. Seriously. The Flåm Railway has become incredibly popular – it’s sold out months in advance. Additionally, Flåm is becoming a major cruise port.

    Gudvangen

    Village

    Gudvangen is a small village with a population of around 120. It is a popular tourist destination due to its proximity at the end of the Nærøyfjord. The popular Gudvangen – Flåm cruise stops here, and many people also come to visit the Viking Village in Gudvangen. The Viking Village is a recreated village as Gudvangen is believed to have been an important trading place for the Vikings. 

    It is worth driving into Gudvangen (approx 5 mins off the E16) and stopping in front of the Nærøyfjord. The Nærøyfjord is the narrowest branch of the Sognefjord, only 250 metres at its narrowest and 12 metres at its shallowest. The fjord is 20km long. It is UNESCO World Heritage-listed as it is one of the best representations of what a fjord looks like.

    Stalheim Hotel & Stalheimskleiva

    Historic Hotel

    The site where the hotel is has been an important place for hundreds of years. When the Royal Postal Road between Oslo and Bergen was established in the 17th century, this hotel was where the postal workers would stop to rest. 

    The hotel as it is known today opened in 1885 with 10 rooms. The hotel burned down in 1900, 1902 and 1959. The current hotel building you see today is from after the 1959 fire. Today the hotel is a high-end historic hotel where many famous people have stayed. It also has arguably one of the best views of any hotel in Norway, but good luck trying to see it. They don’t allow visitors to come in and take pictures without paying or having coffee. 

    Stalheimskleiva is a 1.5km (1 mile) stretch of road that leads from Stalheim Hotel down to sea level towards the Nærøyfjord. It was one of the country’s first roads built according to the new road engineering requirements that came around 1850, the so-called chaussee, with a maximum gradient of 1:20. Around 1,000 men built the road over 7 years. The road was a motorway for cars going in both directions, which was of course dangerous. It was eventually replaced with the two tunnels you’ll be driving through. The road then became a one-way tourist road, however in 2020 part of the road was in danger of collapsing due to landslide. In 2021, the road closed for all motor vehicles for the foreseeable future. This is due to the poor condition of the road and the extensive damage done by traffic. The road is on the conservation plan, so it’s being repaired and may become a hiking trail instead. 

    Across from the Stalheim Hotel is an open-air museum with farmhouses collected from the area. There are also a number of hiking trails starting from around the hotel, so it could be a good option for spending the night. 

    Voss Municipality

    Voss municipality is an inland municipality with about 90% of the area mountains over 300m (1000ft) above sea level. Because of that, the municipality is a popular place for people from Bergen to go skiing. Voss is home to the largest ski resorts in Western Norway. The area has been settled for at least 3,000 years, with people coming here for the rich valleys, waters, and animal life. Voss was also largely an isolated municipality, meaning it has kept its own unique culture and traditions. 

    Oppheim Lake

    Lake

    After leaving Gudvangen, you will drive up the Nærøy Valley. This is part of the UNESCO World Heritage area. The stone they are mining here is anorthosite, a rare stone found in large amounts in this valley. The stone is typically used on the roads because it is reflective. 

    The drive through the valley is short; you will then take two tunnels to get up the mountain. However, before you get into the tunnels, you will see a red hotel and a hairpin-turn road on the hillside. 

    As you drive along the lake, you’ll drive through the village of Oppheim and past the Oppheim Church. 

    Vinje

    Village

    Vinje is a small village located at the junction of the E16 and the Rv13, which runs over the Vikafjellet mountains to Vik by the Sognefjord. This is a long but beautiful detour; the road does close in winter, though. In Vik you’ll find the Hopperstad Stave Church (one of Norway’s 28 remaining stave churches) as well as some other historic buildings. 

    Tvindefossen

    Waterfall

    It is worth stopping and taking some photos of Tvindefossen Waterfall. It will be clearly marked with signs as you approach it. The waterfall is 152m high and has two streams (tvinde=twin). In the late 1990s, the waterfall acquired a reputation for having special powers of reviving sexual potency, so it became common to see visitors from the U.S., Japan and Russia visiting and filling containers with water. 

    Voss

    If you are following the E16, you will take a bypass and not see Voss at all. It is possible to drive into Voss, park by the lake, and see some of the town. 

    Voss has a population of around 14,000 people. The town is known for its cultural traditions in folk music, art, handicrafts, and traditional foods. Voss sits on the shore of the lake Vangsvatnet.

    During World War II, the town was bombed by the Luftwaffe and almost all the buildings were destroyed. 

    In Voss it’s worth visiting Voss Church. According to legend, the people of Voss was forced to convert to Christianity by King Olav (later Saint Olav). A stone cross can be seen by the lake which is believed to have been erected by St. Olav himself. The church was built in 1277 and is one of the only buildings to survive World War II. 

    In Voss you can do the Voss gondola to the top of the mountain, where the open-air museum is. 

    Evanger

    Village

    Evanger has a well-preserved village centre that is believed to be one of the better-preserved villages in the area. Most of the wooden houses are from the late 19th/early 20th centuries. Evanger is known for its production of cured meat because the village is home to several companies that specialise in the production of traditional meats such as pinnekjøtt (dried, salted rib of lamb), cured lamb, and sausages. 

    Bolstadøyri

    Village

    Bolstadøyri is located at the end of the fjord. When the old postal road came through here, this is the point where the workers would leave their horses and take a boat to Bergen. This has always been an important meeting place for the courts as well as a trading post. 

    Vaksdal Municipality

    Vaksdal is a small industrial municipality in Western Norway. The coat-of-arms show three black shuttles for weaving. The shuttles were chosen to represent the textile industry of the municipality. The municipality is located alongside the fjord and is also very mountainous. 

    Dale

    Village

    Dale is a small industrial village with a population of around 1,100. The village was built around the Dale power planet and factory that were founded and constructed in the 1870s. The machines were brought over by boat from England – carding machines, spinning machines and 200 looms, as well as finishing and dyeing machines. When the factory was built, there was only a homestead here. However, by the end of the 19th century the factory had 500 employees and the village had 1,000 inhabitants. At its peak in the 1950s and 1960s, Dale had a population of 4,000. 

    Dale is where the Dale of Norway company is based. This is arguably Norway’s most famous textiles company. They make the sweaters for the Norwegian Olympics Team and are known for their classic patterns. There is an outlet store in Dale, if you wish to visit that. 

    Osterøy

    Island

    Soon you will reach the wider part of the Osterfjord, which you will follow for the journey into Bergen. Across the fjord is an island called Osterøy. Osterøy is the largest inland island in Norway at around 330km2. Around 8,000 people live on the island and it is largely an agricultural island. You’ll see the bridge to the island soon.

    Vaksdal

    Village

    Vaksdal is a small village located on the fjord. Like Dale, it is an industrial town. In the late 19th century, the Vaksdal Mølle (Mill) opened here, utilising the hydropower in the region. This is where flour would be made. At the time it was built, it was the largest mill in Northern Europe. 

    Bergen Municipality

    Welcome to Bergen! We are now on the outskirts of Bergen municipality. 

    Trengereid

    Village

    Trengereid is the next village you will pass on your way into Bergen. Like the other villages along the fjord, Trengereid was established in the late 19th century around a factory. The factory (Trengereid Fabrikker) specialised in ribbon and lace production. 

    In Trengereid you will see the round-a-bout that leads off to the Hardangerfjord and Hardanger Tourist Road. However, you have been driving from Oslo, so probably save that for a separate road-trip. 

    Arna

    Village

    Arna is one of Bergen’s eight districts and was incorporated into the city in 1972. Around 14,000 people live in Arna and are connected to the city centre of Bergen by the railway. The train between Bergen and Arna takes only 10 minutes as it cuts through the mountain Ulriken; the road follows the coastline and takes 30 minutes to get to the same place. 

    Bergen

    Welcome to Bergen! Bergen is Norway’s second-largest city and is regarded as the Capital of the Fjords. 

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Drive it Yourself: Oslo to Aurland via Hemsedal & Borgund Stave Church

    Drive it Yourself: Oslo to Aurland via Hemsedal & Borgund Stave Church

    There are many different ways to get between Oslo & Aurland, but this one is arguably the quickest. It doesn’t follow the one major highway the entire way, so it’s also a good way to mix it up a little. While the scenery might not be as dramatic as the other ways to get to the west from Oslo, it is an easy drive with some interesting places to stop along the way. 

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    The drive: E6 between Oslo and Aurland

    Oslo

    This drive begins in Norway’s capital, Oslo. You can find a detailed guide to Oslo on the travel guide section of the page below. 

    Hole Municipality

    The municipality is located around the woodland of Oslo as well as the Tyrifjord (which is a lake). The soil is very fertile here and is suited to growing fruit, berries, and other agricultural products.

    The coat-of-arms show four gold crowns to symbolise the four Norwegian Kings who lived in the municipality: King Halfdan the Black, King Sigurd Syr, King Olav Haraldsson (St. Olav) and King Harald Hårdråde. As you can imagine, this is a very historic area. There are archaeological finds from the Roman and Migration periods, and it is known as one of the traditional landscapes in the Viking Age and plays a prominent role in the Norse sagas.

    There are a few historic churches in the area. Stein Church, now in ruins, was constructed in the latter half of the 1100s. Bønsnes Church is a medieval church from 1100 and is still standing today. Hole church is from around 1200 and sits on a hill overlooking the Tyrifjord.

    Hole is part of the traditional region of Ringerike. Ringerike is associated with the most notable kings in Norwegian history. It has also given its name to a style of animal art, first discovered on runestones in Ringerike.

    Tyrifjord

    Lake

    Tyrifjorden is a lake in the traditional region of Ringerike. It is Norway’s fifth largest lake. It Is around 26km long and has an average depth of 93 metres. It used to be part of the sea, and there are many finds from that time. It is one of the reasons it was popularly settled around by the Vikings.

    The lake is one of the country’s richest lakes in terms of species. Several areas directly adjacent to the fjord have conservation value due to their unique flora and fauna. The slopes and flats around the lake are fertile and the mild climate means that intensive agriculture is carried out around the lake.

    Free fishing without a licence is based on tradition and custom. The Tyrifjorden has brown trout, crayfish, and pike. The crayfish population is the largest in Norway. Perch can also be caught here. The lake is also used as drinking water for the surrounding areas.

    It is not a fjord by English definitions. Norwegians commonly use the word ‘fjord’ to mean any body of water; many lakes are known as fjords in Norway.

    Sundvollen

    Village

    Sundvollen is a small village located along the Tyrifjorden. Sundvollen is known for its hotels; Sundvolden hotel is one of Norway’s oldest hotels. It was first mentioned in written sources in 1648. Another hotel, Kleivstua Hotel, is an inn that catered to travellers along the Old Royal Bergen Road, the historic road between east and west. The road also formed the pilgrim’s road between Oslo and Trondheim.

    Ringerike Municipality

    Ringerike is a historic region with some of Norway’s earliest kings coming from here. It is believed that the first kingdoms of Norway settled around the Tyrifjorden, hence the name Ringerike (The Old Norse name was Hringariki; hringr means ‘ring’ and riki means ‘kingdom). The first permanent settlements were here between 3000 and 2000 BC.

     Ringerike is one of the medium-sized urban municipalities in Norway and is the largest forestry industry municipality in the country. Considerable agriculture is also carried out here.

    Hønefoss

    We are passing by the town of Hønefoss. The town is built around a waterfall called Hønefossen (foss=waterfall) and grew in relation to the timber industry. Sawmills were placed along the waterfall to utilise its power. The last half of the 19th century brought significant development for the town. The connection to Drammen via railway in 1868 was important for the town.

    Flå Municipality

    Flå is the southernmost part of the traditional Hallingdal valley. Flå is known around Norway for Bjørneparken, which is a park with bears, moose, dear, wolves, foxes and lynx. Flå is also the birthplace of Olav Thon, who went on to become one of the richest men in Norway with his chain of hotels.

    Agriculture is the most important industry in Flå, though the timber industry is also important. The production on the farms is forest and grain, often with sheep and sometimes llamas as well. There are many cabins in the area as it is a popular spot to hunt for deer. Fishing is also organised in several area, and you can buy a licence at most petrol stations.

    Nesbyen Municipality

    Nesbyen municipality is part of the Hallingdal valley. Ancient trading routes went to Western Norway through the Valdres and Hallingdal valleys and then down to Røldal and Odda. The area here was originally populated by migrants from the west.

    Nesbyen has a boreal climate with warm summers and cold winters. The 20th of June 1970, Nesbyen recorded the all-time high in Norway at 35.6C (96.1F). Nesbyen also has a record cold temperature for the area at -38C. There is an old meteor crater just north of Nesbyen. About 650 million years ago, a 200-300 metres meteorite struck this area. This resulted in a 5km impact crater.

    Nesbyen

    Nesbyen is a small town with around 2,100 people living here. The village centre is surrounded by farms as agriculture is an important industry here.

    Hallingdal

    Hallingdal is one of the major valleys of eastern Norway. The valley is V-shaped and is drained by the Hallingdal River that comes in from the Hardangervidda plateau. Hallingdal is one of Norway’s busiest valleys as Highway 7 and the Bergen to Oslo train run through the valley.

    The valley has been an important trading valley for thousands of years. In the early years, Hallingdal prospered from trading with iron and trading routes developed throughout the Iron Age. Hallingdal farmers also traded cattle. The valley is characterised by its livestock farming, especially wool, dairy and eat production.

    Hallingdal is known for its unique art and music culture. Hallingdal has developed its own style of rosemaling with a distinct symmetrical style. The music of Hallingdal is traditionally dominated by the hardanger fiddle. The dance tunes have a distinct pattern, following three different lines of tradition. The Halling is the name of an old folk dance that is used in Norway. Each dancer is alone, and the climax of the dance is known as thrown Halling, where the goal is to kick down a hat from a stick.

    Gol Municipality

    Gol is a small settlement with around 3,200 people living here. It is the trading, service, and communication centre for the municipality.

    Gol used to have a stave church, called the Gol Stave Church. The church was from around 1216, but in the 1870s it was too small for the congregation. It was bought by King Oscar II’s Collections – later the Norwegian Folk Museum that’s now the open-air museum in Oslo. A new church was built in Gol.

    Gol has now built a kid’s park called Gordarike, which is inspired by Norse mythology and the Vikings. They have built a replica of the Gol Stave Church as a highlight of the park.

    Hemsedal Municipality

    Nesbyen municipality is part of the Hallingdal valley. Ancient trading routes went to Western Norway through the Valdres and Hallingdal valleys and then down to Røldal and Odda. The area here was originally populated by migrants from the west.

    Nesbyen has a boreal climate with warm summers and cold winters. The 20th of June 1970, Nesbyen recorded the all-time high in Norway at 35.6C (96.1F). Nesbyen also has a record cold temperature for the area at -38C. There is an old meteor crater just north of Nesbyen. About 650 million years ago, a 200-300 metres meteorite struck this area. This resulted in a 5km impact crater.

    Trøym

    Town

    Trøym is the administrative centre of Hemsedal. Most people (myself included) mistakenly call the village Hemsedal because it has all the main services for the municipality. For example, we are passing Hemsedal Church from the 1880s. The old stave church used to be here.

    Hemsedalsfjellet

    Mountain Range

    Shortly after leaving Trøym, you will cross the Hemsedalsfjellet Mountain Range over into Western Norway. The road can close in winter. 

    Lærdal Municipality

    Lærdal is a municipality in western Norway. It has a relatively dry climate, with around 600mm of rain a year. Agriculture is one of the biggest industries here. The lower part of the valley has one of the country’s best climactic conditions for growing vegetables.

    The river running through Lærdal is called the Lærdal River and is known as the ‘Queen of the Salmon rivers’ because it is one of Norway’s most famous salmon rivers. In the valley, you can hunt deer, reindeer, and elk.

    Lærdal is an important place historically. It has been inhabited for 6,000 years and has always been on the main road between east and west in southern Norway. Originally the road was a footpath. In 1647, Kongevegen was built as a more modern road, and then in the 1840s it was upgraded to Den Bergenske Hovedvei. You can still see remains of Kongevegen in Lærdal municipality; today it is a hiking path.

    Borgund Stave Church

    Located close to the main highway is Borgund Stave Church, one of the 28 remaining stave churches in Norway. 

    Lærdal

    Town

    This has been an important trading place since the Middle Ages. Lærdal sits on the Sognefjord, which goes approximately halfway into the country between the coast and the Swedish border. Therefore, it has always been preferred to travel by sea. Lærdal developed as a natural marketplace because of its position along the fjord. Coastal farmers brought herring and fish and exchanged goods with the mountain farmers who came from the Hallingdal and Valdres valleys.

    Historic wooden houses survive in Lærdal today that are connected to this historic marketplace.

    Aurlandsfjellet

    If you are travelling in summer and don’t want to drive through the long tunnel, you can take the scenic detour on the Aurlandsfjellet Tourist Road. Allow an extra hour or so to do the drive, but it is well worth it!

    You can find our guide to Aurlandsfjellet below. 

    Lærdal Tunnel

    Tunnel

    The Lærdal Tunnel is 24.5km (15.2 mi) long. It is the longest road tunnel in the world. Construction started in 1995 and the tunnel opened in 2000, costing around 1 billion NOK ($113 million USD).

    The design of the tunnel takes into consideration the mental strain for the drivers, so the tunnel is divided into four sections, separated by three large mountain caves. The caves have blue lighting with yellow lights at the fringes to give an impression of sunrise. The caves are meant to break the routine.

    There are no emergency exits. Emergency phones are every 250m. There are also 15 turning areas in case of an accident. High air quality is achieved through ventilation and purification.

    Aurland Municipality

    People have lived off hunting and fishing in Aurland for thousands of years. Farming started around 2,000 years ago and agriculture is still an important industry here. Tourism is also emerging in importance as Aurland is home to the famous Flåm village as well as Gudvangen.

    In the village of Aurland you’ll find Vangen Church, a medieval stone church from 1202. It is built in the early Gothic style influenced by English architecture. The fact that they used stone as a building material indicates how important Aurland was as a town.

    Flåm

    Our drive concludes in Flåm, one of the most popular places in Norway for tourism. If you want somewhere a little quieter, you can choose to stay in Aurland instead. 

    You can find our travel guide for Flåm below. 

    Where to Go From Here

    Flåm is perfectly located to continue your road-trip. You can either take the ferry over to Balestrand and continue from there, or you can continue on to Bergen. 

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Everything You Need to Know About the Bergen Railway

    The Bergen Railway

    The Bergen Railway is undeniably one of the best ways to get between Bergen and Oslo. The entire journey, which takes around 7 hours, crosses valleys and mountains, passes lakes and fjords, and shows you some of the best Norway has to offer.

    Information online can be tricky, so I’ve gathered it all together in one straight-to-the-point article. After the practical information, you’ll find an overview of some of the stations you pass on the trip. 

    If you wish to support me, you can leave a tip by clicking the coffee cup on the bottom left of this screen. Otherwise, leave questions or kind words in the chat section.

    Here’s everything you need to know before taking the Bergen Railway. Enjoy!

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    Brief Historical Overview

    The Bergen Railway was built between 1875 and 1909. The first section of the train to be built was the Voss Line, which runs between Bergen and Voss. It opened in 1883 after over a decade of planning and construction. The plan had always been to extend it to Oslo, but by the time the Voss Line was complete, Norway was in a recession. Parliament was not willing to give more money. In 1894, the matter was brought to parliament, and they voted 60 in favour (53 against) to build the Bergen Line. 12 different routes were surveyed over a period of six years. Construction finally began in 1901.

    The construction process, as you might imagine, was very challenging. The high altitudes in a region without roads and a freezing cold climate made it difficult for the workers. The tunnels were all built manually through solid gneiss. The laying of track started in 1906 and took around one year to be completed.

    The original train was a standard gauge. The first services started on the 1st of July 1907 between Voss and Myrdal. An official opening was attempted on 9 December 1907, but the train got stuck in heavy snow. The first train between Bergen and Oslo ran on the 25th of November 1909, and two days later the railway was officially opened at Voss by King Haakon VII.

    The railway was used a lot during World War II for both civilian and military transportation.

    After the war, plans were made to electrify the train. The line was electrified in four stages between 1961 and 1964.

    Practical Information

    Timings

    • How many trains run a day? Four trains to between Bergen and Oslo a day. 
    • What time should I take it? If you are doing the Bergen to Oslo trip with Norway in a Nutshell all in one day, take the train that leaves Bergen around 8am. It’s also a good time to take the train because it gives you time to explore Oslo. The train gets into Oslo around 2:45pm.
    • What’s the best time of year to go? The train operates all year. It really depends on when you are travelling. It’s crowded in summer. I prefer spring: you get all the flowers and trees blooming closer to sea level, but there’s still snow on the mountains. 

    Tickets & Pricing

    • Buying in advance: Tickets can be bought up to 90 days in advance on our national rail website, vy.no. 
    • Does it sell out? Yes! In summer and over winter holidays, it is very common for the train to sell out. Book as early as possible.
    • Are there any discounts?If you keep an eye out and book as early as possible, you may find the minipris tickets. These are heavily discounted, but they do sell out quickly!
    • Norway in a Nutshell: You can book the trip on the Norway in a Nutshell website, and this is worth doing if you are actually doing the Norway in a Nutshell tour (Bergen – Voss – Gudvangen – Flåm – Myrdal – Oslo). However, they tend to charge more than if you just booked it on your own. It’s a matter of ease and convenience. 
    • How much do tickets cost? Ticket prices change a lot depending on the time of year and how close the train is to selling out

    Komfort Class

    • Komfort Class is the ‘first class’ option on the train
    • Komfort Class comes with complimentary tea and cofee, plus charging ports
    • Is it worth it? Honestly, I think so. While the ‘advantages’ of Komfort class don’t seem worth the extra fare, I think it’s worth it because it’s so much more relaxing. In summer, the train gets overcrowded with noisy travellers and luggage. The Komfort section tends to be where the Norwegians go because it’s quieter. Being silent in this section is a little more enforced too. 

    Services on board

    • Cafe: There is a cafe on the train. They have drinks, sandwiches, chocolates, coffee, hot dogs, pizzas, and some warm food items (like a curry with rice). The café gets incredibly busy around the middle of the trip, and the carriage is tiny. It is very unpleasant if you try to get food then. Some items will sell out, too. If you wait to the end of the trip, you’ll be left with hot dogs as an option. I recommend buying cold food early and saving it until you want it. It’s cheaper to buy food ahead of time and bring it on board with you. 
    • Alcohol? No alcohol is served on board
    • Wifi? Wifi is on the train in theory, but how well it works depends on what part of Norway you’re in. For example, it rarely works in the mountains. 
    • Bringing Children: Close to the café is a playroom for children. It’s called the ‘Family Car’. 
    • Language: signs on board are in Norwegian. Announcements are made in both English and Norwegian. 

    Apps

    • The Vy app allows you to download tickets and show them to the conductor. It’s much better than printing the ticket
    • The BaneNOR app allows you to track trains

    Taking photos

    • Bergen to Voss: Mostly the left side
    • Voss to Myrdal: Mostly the right side
    • Myrdal to Finse: Mostly the right side
    • Finse to Geilo: Mostly the right side
    • Geilo to Oslo: Both sides work well.

    For the photographers, the best places to take photos are in the doorways. At each stop, you can open the doors and take a quick snapshot. Just be wary of how long the train is stopping!

    Buss for tog

    If you see this, it means that part of the train journey has been replaced with a bus. It’s inconvenient but it happens if there’s work needed on the train. The bus doesn’t provide food or stops for toilets, so plan in advance.

    Luggage

    The train has very limited space for luggage. If you are breaking up the trip to do Norway in a Nutshell, I recommend having your luggage delivered to your hotel in Bergen or Oslo, depending on which direction you are going. Then take a small overnight bag on board the train with you. Check out the service ‘Porter Service’ (www.porterservice.no)

    Tunnel Reality

    There are over 180 tunnels on the Bergen Railway, so at times your view will be limited. This is very true in Western Norway; you must be quick with the camera!

    The journey: Bergen to Oslo

    Bergen

    City

    Bergen Station opened in 1913, four years after the Bergen Line was completed. Originally, the station was located further west (near where KODE 2 gallery is today). 

    At the time of construction, it was regarded as one of the grandest stations in Norway. The material used is granite and the style of construction is the National Romantic style. 

    As we leave Bergen, on the right side we’ll be able to see the city centre and the Lungegård Lake. 

    Ulriken Tunnel

    Tunnel

    The Ulriken Tunnel is the first tunnel we go through. The tunnel is relatively new; before then, the first 32km (20 mi) of the journey out of Bergen was very slow because the tracks navigated their way around the suburbs. Three tunnels were constructed to eliminate that part of the trip. The tunnels were completed in 1963, and the first train went through in 1964.

    The track is single track, which does create some traffic. A double track is planned. There is also a rumour that a road tunnel will be put through Mount Ulriken, which will eliminate the drive time from Arna down from 40 minutes to 10 minutes. 

    Tip: When we are in the Ulriken Tunnel, you lose internet signal. 

    Arna

    Borough
    • After the Ulriken Tunnel was completed in 1964, Arna station was constructed. The old Arna station still exists, and it is used for the heritage trains that operate on the old Voss Railway in the summer months (click here for more info). 

    Arna is a borough of Bergen with a population of 13,000. With the rumours of a road tunnel, Arna is becoming a more attractive place for people to live. 

    Osterøy

    Island

    After Arna, we begin travelling along the Osterfjord, which is on the left side. If you want to get some photos of the fjord you have to be quick – there are many, many tunnels on this part of the journey!

    The Osterfjord is around 27km (17 mi) long, 1 – 3km wide (0.62 – 1.86 mi) and the deepest point reaches a depth of 639m (2096ft) below sea level.

    On the other side is the island Osterøy. It is Norway’s largest inland island (i.e. not directly adjacent to the ocean) at 328km2 (127 sq mi).

    There are two road bridges that connect Osterøy to the mainland. We’ll pass one of them – the Osterøy Bridge – which is from 1997.

    Trengereid

    Village

    Trengereid is a small village that is still part of Bergen. The village is known for its fabrics factory, established in 1895. At one point, the Trengereid Fabrikker (1895-1999) was one of the major Norwegian manufacturers o lace, ribbon, cord and elastic. You can learn more about the factory on the Industrial Museum website.

    Trengereid is the starting point for many hikes on Bergen’s easternmost mountains, including the tallest mountain in Bergen municipality: Gullfjellet.

    On your right side will the the residential neighbourhood, high on the hillside. On your left will be the fjord, the old factories and the docking facilities.

    Only the Bergen – Voss railway stops here. The station was built in 1908.

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    Dale

    Village

    Dale is located on the western end of the Bergsdalen valley. The population is 1,193. Historically, Dale has been an industrial place. The town was built around the Dale Power Plant and the Dale Factories. When the factories were built around 1879, there was only one small farm. By the end of the 19th century, the factory had around 500 employees.

    On your right side, you’ll be able to see Dale Church (from 1956) as we approach the village. Also on the right side will be the Dale of Norway factory, a famous company that manufactures wool sweaters. There is also a textile mill here.

    The Dale Factory is open, and there is an outlet store if you want to buy a sweater or some yarn at a discounted price (the sweaters are famously expensive!). 

    The E16 (European Highway 16) runs through Dale. Dale Station is mostly used by the Bergen – Voss Railway, though some express trains do stop here. The station is from 1888.

    Voss

    Town

    The journey between Dale and Voss is very scenic, with a famous salmon river alongside side. 

    Eventually the tunnels end and the Voss Lake appears on our right-hand side. For most of the year, the mountains in the background will have snow on them. 

    With a population of 14,168, Voss is a large town and main hub for the region. It’s located between the Sognefjord and the Hardangerfjord, which has made it attractive for tourists. 

    Shortly on your right, just as the train approaches the station, is the Fleischer’s Hotel. The hotel was completed in 1889 in the Swiss Style. The name ‘Fleischer’ comes from a well-known family who have lived in Voss for many generations. The hotel is lovely, and if you want to break up the journey this is a highly recommended place to stay. Voss is a great place to spend a couple days – here’s the VisitNorway page for the town. 

    Voss Station was opened as the original terminal station of the Voss Line in 1883. It was on this platform that King Haakon officially opened the Bergen Railway on 27 November 1909.

    Sometimes the train will spend 10-20 minutes here before continuing. If that’s the case, you can leave the train and take some photos of the hotel and the troll statues that are along the platform.

    You will notice the huge Voss Gondola on the platform. This is a brand new attraction (completed in 2020), and if you go to the top you’ll have amazing views. Click here to view their website. 

    Shortly after leaving the station, you’ll pass the old Voss Church (Vangskyrkja). The church is from the mid-13th century and is built in a Gothic style. The whole region was Christianised by King Olav (Saint Olav), and the first church (a wooden church) was built shortly after that. This stone church replaced the old wooden church. Amazingly, the church was not destroyed during World War II.

    After the church, you’ll see the main downtown area of Voss. It’s very concrete and may seem unattractive. The reason for the concrete facades is the destruction from World War II. After the German invasion of Norway on 9 April 1940, Voss was the main place for the Norwegian Army in the West. The Nazis were met with strong resistance from the Norwegians here. To break down the resistance, the Luftwaffe bombed Voss on 23 and 24 April. The bombing completely destroyed the historic town centre. 

    Mjølfjell

    Hiking Area

    Once we are out of Voss, the scenery begins to become more dramatic. The stretch between Voss and Myrdal takes us through a narrow, rocky valley. On your right will be spectacular views out to the mountains.

    We pass many stations along the way, but the train very rarely stops there. Sometimes they do if someone on board has requested the train stop. One such station that may have a stop is Mjølfjell.

    Mjølfjell is a village with mostly cabins – in total, there are about 500 cabins here. Most are used as vacation homes by people from Bergen. The area is very popular for hiking and skiing. In the village you’ll find a grocery store, a chapel, and a military training facility.

    The area grew after the establishment of the Bergen Line. There used to be a number of mountain hotels here. One still stands: the Mjølfjell Mountain Lodge. It is a high-end hotel with an outdoor pool, sauna, hiking trails, ski resort, and much more. Mjølfjell does have road access: the road actually ends here. All the following platforms have no road access.

    The name Mjølfjell refers to the mountain: the colour of the white anorthosite looks like flour, which in Norwegian is mjøl. So the name is ‘Flour Mountain’.

    Upsete

    Hiking Area

    Much like Mjølfjell, Upsete is another place the train may stop at if it’s requested. Upsete does not have a road access. There is a lovely place to stay: Upsete Fjellstove. The hotel is open in the summer and offers hikes and bikes that you can ride on the Rallarvegen.

    The train station opened in 1908 as Opset Station; the name Upsete came in 1921.

    Myrdal

    Junction with the Flåm Railway

    Myrdal is a tiny station but it is very well known due to its location. Myrdal is one end of the famous Flåm Railway – the train journey down to the Flåm village is often regarded as one of the most beautiful train journeys in the world.

    The connection to Flåm was not intended for tourists; rather, it was established to link the Sognefjord to the main Bergen – Oslo train and transport goods and people up from the fjord region. Originally, the connection was supposed to go from Voss down to Gudvangen. In 1908, the decision was made to have the train go from Myrdal to Flåm. They estimated that 22,000 passengers would use the train a year. In 2008, the passenger count was almost 600,000!

    The majority of people who come to Myrdal don’t spend long here; instead they use it as a place to change trains. There is no road connection to Myrdal.

    People did used to live in Myrdal; there are remains of old iron ore mining and animal husbandry. Nobody lives here anymore, though some do own cabins here.

    The station is located between two tunnels on the Bergen Line: The Gravahals Tunnel to the west and the Vatnahalsen Tunnel to the east.

    Myrdal has three platforms. Platform 1 is the principal platform on the mainline, and platform 2 is the alternative mainline platform located on the passing loop. The non-consecutively numbered platform 11 is the platform used by local trains to and from Flåm. The passing loop allows regional trains to cross with freight trains. At the station you’ll find toilets, a cafeteria, a souvenir shop, and a waiting room. The shops are only open in summer.

    Tip:  As we leave Myrdal, keep your eyes on the left. For a few seconds we’ll be able to see down the entire Flåm Valley. It’s just before going into a tunnel!

    Hallingskied

    Hiking Area

    Hallingskeid is the westernmost station of the high mountain stations. It is regarded as one of the snowiest areas on the Bergen Railway. Due to the ewather, the station is located inside a ‘snow superstructure’. These structures are built over railways to protect them from snow in the most exposed areas. A total of 9.5km of the Bergen Railway has a snow superstructure; mostly in Hallingskeid.

    There are no permanent residents at Hallingskeid; the station is operated remotely. In he area are many hiking trails, the Rallarvegen cycle path, and cabins.

    The train will stop here upon request. 

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    Finse Tunnel

    Tunnel

    Just before we get to Finse will be the Finse Tunnel. It is the longest tunnel on the Bergen Railway: 10,589m! (6.5 mi). The tunnel was built to ensure the train could operate all winter. The highest point on the Bergen Railway, 1237m above sea level (4058ft), is passed while we are inside the tunnel.

    Tip: As we leave the tunnel, keep an eye out on the right-hand side for a view of the glacier. If the weather is good, you’ll be able to see it here.

    Finse

    Highest Point

    We’ve made it to Finse! Finse is the highest station on the Bergen Railway and is known across Norway for its plethora of outdoor activities.

    Haugastøl

    Hiking Area

    Haugastøl is another high mountain station that can be stopped at upon request. The station has been unattended since 1997. The station is designed in a mix between the National Romantic Style and Art Nouveau and is from 1908. Haugastøl was originally known as Fjellberg, Norway’s highest altitude farm. People lived there until 1909, and today it is a holiday home.

    Haugastøl marks the end point of the Rallarvegen in the west.

    Geilo

    Ski Town

    Geilo is a small town with around 2,400 people living there. It’s located in the Hallingdal valley, a traditional region in Eastern Norway. Before the train came to Geilo, the area was remote with a few scattered farms.

    Geilo was established as a town when the Bergen Line was constructed. The train facilitated Geilo’s development as the first skiing resort in the country, and it is still one of the largest. It is also known for having some of the most luxurious and expensive holiday cabins in Norway.

    The ski season in Geilo runs from late October to late April, and there are numerous ski centres here for alpine and cross country skiing. Click here for more information about visiting Geilo. 

    Shortly after leaving Geilo, we pass the old Hol station from 1911. Hol Municipality is the largest municipality in Hallingdal, and 91% of the area is located at more than 900m above sea level. 

    The train continues to decrease dramatically. 

    Ål

    Village

    Ål is a small town with around 5,000 people living here. There is a strong cultural tradition here, and folk music is important to the community. The Folkemusikkveka is held every May. The traditional industry here is mostly farming. Many livestock farms ae in operation with small herds of sheep, dairy cattle, and goats. Crop growing is difficult because of the steep valley walls.

    Ål station is served by six express trains, and the station has historic locomotive stables that are protected by the Directorate of Cultural Heritage.

    We are roughly at the midpoint of the Bergen Railway. The train is now 228km from Oslo and 243km from Bergen.

    After Ål, the scenery begins to flatten with forests, rivers, and modest mountain areas. We pass Torpo Station, which used to be the central station in Hallingdal. The station is built in the Art Nouveau style and is identical to the station we saw at Geilo. One of the big attractions here is the Torpo Stave Church.

    Click here for the Ål Tourist Info Site. 

    Gol

    Village

    Gol is part of the Hallingdal Valley. There was a very ancient settlement here; in the year 1000, there were around 26 farms in Gol.

    Gol is located at the crossroads between the E7, Highway 52, and County Road 51, which takes you to Fagernes and the E16. From Gol, you have excellent connections to Valdres, Hemsedal, Laerdal and Sogn.

    Gol does have an industrial feel to it, but there are some fun things to do here as well. The Gordarike Family Park is a theme park designed around the Viking Era. A modern replica of the Gol Stave Church has been built as a tourist attraction in the park. Gol used to have a real stave church, but in the 19th century they sold it to the Oslo Folk Museum, where it currently stands. There’s also an open-air museum located in Gol. It is built around an old farm and consists of barns, lofts and wooden stables plus a mill, school and cabin.

    The station is from 1907 and is a busy station. Historically, this was a junction and important trading centre with heavy traffic.

    The station is served by up to six dailway express trains. This station opened in 1907.

    Just after the train leaves Gol, there are many farms located up on the valley side.

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    Nesbyen

    Town

    Nesbyen is a small town with a population of around 3,500. It has a historic town centre, called Gamle Nes. Most buildings here are from before 1900. The area was mentioned in documents from the 1600s, when the valley of Hallingdal was ruled from Nesbyen. Here’s a nice self-guided walk around Nesbyen. 

    One of the big attractions here is the Hallingdal Museum, which is one of the oldest open-air museums in Norway (from 1899). It has a large collection of wold buildings; the oldest one is the staveloftet from 1340. Another popular place to visit is the old meteor crater just noth of the town. About 650 million years ago, a 200-300m meteorite struck the area.

    There are many outdoor activities to do here. The most popular hike is up Hallingnatten, which is 1314m above sea level. From the top you can see most of Southern Norway, including Jotunheimen in the north and Gaustatoppen in the southwest.

    Nesbyen is known around Norway for having the highest recorded temperature in the country. The record was 35.6C, recorded on 20 June 1970.

    The E7 is located along Nesbyen, which is built over an ancient trade route from Valdres through to Odda in Western Norway.

    The station is served by up to six daily express trains. This station opened in 1907. Trains often stop here. This used to be a central station equipped with turntable for turning locomotives and several industrial tracks.

    Just after Nesbyen is the railway’s longest straight stretch. There are dense forest on both sides of the train. The railway follows the eastern side of the Hallingdal River, while the national highway is on the opposite side.

    Tip: Keep an eye out for the Austvoll Water Tower on the right. In the era of steam locomotives, these water towers were common along the railway. The train had to stop often to replenish so the pressure on the boiler didn’t fail.

    Flå

    Town

    Flå is the last settlement we’ll pass in the Hallingdal valley. Like Nesbyen and Ål, it’s located on the ancient trade route that went through Valdres to Odda in Western Norway. Flå has a population of around 1,000.

    Flå is surorunded by stunning nature. There are forests, agriculture, and mountains as high as 1500m. Flå’s coat-of-arms is the head of a black bear. Close to the town is the conservation area where Norway’s last permanent bear population lived. Today you can see bears in Flå if you visit the Bear Park, which is popular with kids. They don’t just have bears; they also have elk, deer, wolf and lynx.

    The station is served by up two daily express trains. This station opened in 1907. We don’t see much of the village from the station because it’s about 1km away.

    After leaving Flå, we follow the Hallingdal River. Eventually we’ll start passing the Krøder Lake, which was named “Norway’s finest Lake” by Fridtjof Nansen. 

    Hønefoss

    Town

    Hønefoss is a large town and central hub with a population of around 14,000. The town name comes from the waterfall that runs through the town; you will get a glimpse of it as the train leaves the station. The town experienced huge growth during the beginning of industrialisation; the waterfall was exploited for power and sawmills went up in the region. The railway to Drammen was also important for the industrial town.

    Hønefoss is located on the E16, which is the main highway between Bergen and Oslo. It’s also connected to the Norwegian National Road 35 and the National Road 7. The town is located to several factories, including Norske Skog Follum, which works in the timber industry.

    There are many things to see and do in Hønefoss. One of the highlights is the Ringerikes Museum, which is known for its collection of iron, rune stones, and for holding the private collection of Jørgen Engebretsen Moe. Jørgen was a Norwegian author best known for writing a collection of Norwegian folkales which he edited in collaboration with Peter Christen Asbjørnsen. The Norwegian Train Museum is also located here, where the old locomotives are. In cooperation with the Norwegian Railway Club, it is working on the restoration, maintenance and operation of all railway equipment.

    By the station is one of the country’s largest stone vault bridges, built in granite.

    The stretch of railway between Drammen and Hønefoss was completed in 1868 and was used primarily for cargo.

    The idea of a railway between Drammen and Hønefoss was launched in 1846, before any other railways were constructed in Norway. However, nothing happened for a long time. In fact, even the idea of a canal was floated. In 1863, Parliament approved construction of a line between Hønefoss and Drammen. The railway was completed in 1868. The next plan was the Bergen Line, which opened in 1909.

    The region we are in is called Ringerike. It is rich in history and ancient culture. The region has a rich food culture, and the Ringerikspotatoes are quite famous.

    After we leave the station, we’ll be going alongside Tyrifjord’s western side. Tyrifjord is actually the country’s fifth largest lake, and the maximum depth is about 330m. There are 13 fish species in the lake, making it known for its rich fisheries. 

    Vikersund

    Town

    Vikersund is a small town with a population of around 3,200. Historically, the town has been important for the paper industry. Timber was floated down on the Tyrifjord to the Drammen River, where it could then be exported.

    Today Vikersund is known amongst Norwegians for its Ski Jumping Centre. The Vikersund Ski Jump is the world’s largest, and there are seven different slopes within the complex.

    Vikersund was part of the Krøder Railway, which was completed in 1872 and primarily used for industry and transporting passengers. In the summer they operate special steam trains that you can ride.

    After Vikkersund the train passes several old industrial sites that grew up along the river when industrial travel took over towards the end of the 19th century.

    Hokksund

    Town

    Hokksund is a small community that was built up around an old farm. Part of the growth of the town can be attributed to the nearby silver mines at Kongsberg. When silver was discovered in Kongsberg in 1623, the King decided that a road should be built between Kongsberg and Hokksund. This road is the first official road in Norway.

    The railway came to Hokksund in 1866, and this gave way to the development of the local business community. Several businesses still stand along the railway track. The original station burned down in 1897, and the new one was finished a year later. The station is designed in a monumental masonry style, and it is the oldest and best preserved station on this part of the journey.

    After Hokksund, you go across the plainlands of the Drammen Valley. The Drammen river is on our left.

    Drammen

    City

    Drammen is a large city with around 60,000 people living here. The city is located west of the Oslofjord on the Drammen River. Drammen was built up as a trading and industrial city; keep an eye out on the left as we go through Drammen; you’ll see beautiful old factories and the town centre.

    The station opened in 1866 when the railway between Hønefoss and Drammen was completed. From Drammen, you can change trains and take the Sørlandet Line towards Kristiansand and Stavanger.The station is also served by trains to Oslo, Kongsberg and Eidsvoll, regional trains on the Vestfold Line and express trains to Bergen and Kristiansand. Since 2009, it has been the terminus of the Oslo Airport Express train.

    The station has recently been modernised and expanded.

    Shortly after leaving Drammen, we pass the Drammensfjord on the right and the hill area towards Finnemarka on the right. This is one of the most fertile areas in the country.

    Sandvika

    Neighbourhood

    The train may stop at Sandvika. Sandvika has had city status since 2003. The Crown Prince’s residence is at Skaugum. The site goes back to the Middle Ages. It was handed to Prince Olav in 1929, and today it is private property of the royal family, unlike the Royal Palace and OscarsHall, which is owned by the state.

    Oslo Tunnel

    Tunnel

    The last part of our journey is not very scenic: we have to make our way to the other end of Oslo city centre, and to do that we must go through the Oslo Tunnel. The Oslo tunnel is about 3.6km long and opened in 1980, the same time as the Oslo Central Station. Before this, Oslo had two stations: Oslo East and Oslo West. As you can imagine, it was not very practical. Today Oslo West is the Nobel Peace Centre, while Oslo East has been expanded into Oslo Central Station.

    Oslo

    City

    You have made it to Oslo! You can find my guide to Oslo by clicking the button below. 

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