Bergen

  • Bergen, Eidfjord, Flåm, Geilo, Hardangerfjord, National Tourist Roads, Road-trips, Voss

    Drive it Yourself: the Hardangervidda Tourist Road

    Drive it Yourself: Hardangervidda Tourist Road

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    The drive: Hardangervidda Tourist Road

    Eidfjord

    This drive begins in Eidfjord. You can find a detailed guide to Eidford below. 

    Eidfjord Travel Guide

    Eio River & Eidfjord Lake

    Natural Attraction

    The river is 2.1km (1.3 mi) long and runs from lake Eidfjord down into the Eid Fjord. We’ll see the Eidfjord Lake soon; it’s a moraine-dammed lake located just outside the village of Eidfjord.

    Øvre Eidfjord

    Village

    Øvre Eidfjord is a small village on the southern end of the Eidfjord Lake. The town has a population of around 200 and it serves as the last major stop before crossing the Hardangervidda Plateau.

    Norsk Natursenter

    Museum

    Øvre Eidfjord is home to the Norsk Natursenter, which is where you can learn about the nature in the area. Technology is used to allow for interactive experiences and learn about the flora and fauna of the area. There’s also a lovely film about the plateau made by Ivo Caprino. If you have the time, I recommend stopping here to learn a little more about Hardangervidda.

    Måbødalen

    Natural Attraction

    Måbødalen is a unique and narrow valley that will take you from Øvre Eidfjord to Hardangervidda. The deep and steep valley is the result of ice and water having cut into the slacker and more open valleys. The valley is studied with regards to its geological process and the interaction between ice and rivers.

    The valley was almost impassable before 1790, when bridges were built, and a stairway was completed. The first road was built here in the early 20th century; it opened in 1916 and included three bridges. The road is known for its hairpin turns, and today is only for cyclists and pedestrians. The original road through the valley was the first road between east and west Norway over Hardangervidda.

    Luckily for us there is now a new road; the new road is from 1986 and is wider and has many more tunnels.

    Johan Christian Dahl painted Måbødalen, a landscape painting that is on display at the KODE art museum in Bergen. It’s pictured above. 

    Before you get to the more dramatic part of the valley, you’ll pass a small museum about the cultural landscape of Måbødalen.

    Vøringsfossen

    Natural Attraction

    Vøringsfossen is the 83rd highest waterfall in Norway, which itself isn’t an impressive statistic. Rather, it is the setting that makes Vøringsfossen worth seeing. The waterfall has a total drop of 182m (597ft) and is perhaps the most famous waterfall in the country.

    The waterfall was hardly known to anyone besides the locals until 1821, when professor Christopher Hansteen estimated the height of the waterfall. He was on his way to Hardangervidda to make astronomical observations at the time. The way he estimated the height was by throwing stones down the edge and measuring the time they took to fall with his pocket watch. He estimated the height to be 280m (920ft); in 1893 the real height was realised by using string.

    In 2020, a new pedestrian bridge opened across Vøringsfossen; it was placed in sections by helicopter. The pedestrian bridge has received a lot of criticism, which many describing it as quite ugly.

    Fossli Hotel

    Hotel

    Fossli Hotel is a historic hotel overlooking the Måbø Valley and Vøringsfossen waterfall. The hotel was built by Ola L. Garen (1857 – 1915), who saw the potential of the area and the slow introduction of tourists. Before the hotel, there was only a walking path up the valley with 1,500 stairs. Thanks to the hotel, a new road was built through the valley instead. All the materials to build the hotel had to be carried on horseback from Eidfjord up to the top of the hill. Today the hotel is run by Erik Garen, the great grandson of Ola Garen.

    Fossli Hotel is built in the art nouveau style.

    The hotel owns a Zimmerman piano where Edvard Grieg composed Norwegian Folk Songs, Opus 66.

    Room rates

    Hardangervidda Plateau

    Scenic Area

    Hardangervidda is a well-known mountain plateau that spreads across parts of western, central, eastern, and southern Norway. It is the largest plateau of its kind (peneplain, or eroded plain) in Europe, and it has a cold year-round alpine climate. The highest point is the Sandfloegga, which reaches a height of 1,721m (5,646ft).

    The landscape is characterised by barren, treeless, moorland with lakes, rivers, and streams. The western side is rockier, while the eastern side is flatter and more heavily vegetated. The geology is extremely ancient; the rolling fells are remnants of mountains that were worn down by glaciers during the ice ages.

    Settlements from the Stone Age have been found in the area. The people who lived here were likely linked to the reindeer migration. Additionally, there are ancient trails across the plateau. Hardangervidda is still a key route between east and west; highway 7 being the way across.

    The Hardangervidda Plateau is above the tree line. The alpine climate means that there are arctic animals and plants here further south than anywhere else in Europe. There is a large wild reindeer herd here; it is believed to be the largest in the world with up to 10,000 reindeer.

    In 1981 much of Hardangervidda was designated a national park. The Norwegian Mountain Touring Association (DNT) has a network of huts and paths across the plateau. There are two visitor centres: the Norsk Natursenter in Øvre Eidfjord and the Hardanger Nasjonalparksenter, close to Rjukan.

    The Star Wars movie, The Empire Strikes Back, was shot on Hardangervidda; the plateau provided the basis for the Hoth sequences.

    Sysendammen

    Dam

    Sysendammen (Sysen Dam) is a rock-filled embankment dam. It holds back Lake Sysen, which is the main reservoir for the Sy-Sima Hydroelectric Power Station. The water supply to Vøringsfossen is regulated by the dam, and there is a requirement for a minimum water supply during the summer.

    The dam is 81m (266 ft) high, 1,157m (3,796ft) long and 248m (814ft) wide.

    Buskerud (Formerly known as Viken) County

    We have crossed into the county that from 2020 – 2022 was known as Viken. At time of writing, the Viken sign was still by the road. This sign may not be up when you drive through; the county was established in 2020 with the merging of three separate counties. However, the three counties were not happy with the decision and in 2021 a parliamentary election saw the parties wanting to dissolve Viken win. On the 23rd of February 2022, a vote of 49 against 38 saw the decision to split Viken finalised. So, in the near future, Viken will be split up again. For purposes of this video, I’ll talk about the county that used to be here and will likely come back: Buskerud.

    Buskerud county is a historically important county in Norway. The area around Ringerike was likely a small kingdom and Norway’s kings Olav Tryggvason and Olav Haraldsson grew up in Ringerike.

    The first element of the name, buske, refers to ‘bishop’, while the last element means ‘clearing, farm’. Historically, the bishop’s farm was one of the largest in Buskerud and was important during the Reformation. The farm became property of the Danish Crown and served as the residence for the king’s bailiffs until 1668.

    Agriculture, lumber, wood-pulp mills, and other related industries are the county’s main economic activities. There is a lot of hydropower thanks to the rivers Begna and Rands. Buskerud also has a large, forested area.

    Hol Municipality

    Hol is a mountainous municipality that sees 90% of the area over 900m above sea level. The coat-of-arms depicts three silver anvils on a blue background. The anvil was chosen to symbolise the former smithies in the municipality. The municipality was famous for the production of axes, blades and knives, and iron mining took place here in the Viking Age.

    Samegammene

    Souvenir Shop

    Samegammene is a small shop and fur company that began sixty years ago, when Amund Johansen from Northern Norway was forced to sell his reindeer herd after World War II and move south. He took his family with him and settled in Hardangervidda, where he was given the job as a reindeer herder. However, he sustained an injury from that work and decided to focus on tourism instead.

    Several ‘gamme’ have been bult around Hardangervidda. A ‘gamme’ is an ancient form of an earth hut, and from these they sell Sami products and souvenirs. Here you will find souvenirs but also handmade fur mittens and hats. The building was owned by the daughter of Amund Johansen until 2017, when she sold it out of the family. The current owners keep the gamme in memory of Amund Johansen.  

    Haugastøl

    Ski Town

    Haugastøl is the first town you’ll visit after a while. It is primarily a ski resort with various hotels and cabins. There is also a train station here, Haugastøl station, which is on the Bergen – Oslo Railway.

    Haugastøl is one end of the popular Rallarvegen cycling route – it’s an 83km track from Haugastøl to Finse (a town not accessible by road, just train). The road was originally a service road used by workers building the Flåm Railway, but now it is one of the most famous cycling tracks in the country. 

    Ustaoset

    Ski Town

    Ustaoset is a small village located on the Bergen to Oslo Railway. The village came to prominence when the railway opened in 1909 as it was a good spot for people to visit to go skiing. Families from Bergen and Oslo built cabins in Ustaoset and used the train as a way to get there. Due to Norway’s strict laws, it is now very difficult to build a new cabin in Ustaoset. Whenever one is up for sale, it is very popular and is often sold very quickly and for a high price.

    Ustaoset is mentioned in Jo Nesbø’s book The Leopard; the mountain resort cabins play a key role in the murder mystery.

    Geilo

    Ski Town

    Geilo is the main town in Hol municipality and is one of the most well-known ski resorts in the country. The town is in the Hallingdal valley at roughly the halfway point on the Bergen to Oslo railway.

    Geilo is noted for being the first ski resort in Norway and it was built up after the opening of the railway in 1909. The ski season lasts from late October until late April, and there are numerous small ski centres that make up one resort: Geilo Skiheiser. In addition to 39 downhill slopes, there are 220km of cross-country ski tracks.

    In the town centre you’ll find some shops, a supermarket, and a few restaurants. Around 2,500 people live in Geilo all year round, so there is a school, cinema, library and police station.

    Hagafoss

    Village

    Hagafoss is a small village in the upper part of the Hallingdal valley. It is located on the main highway between Bergen and Oslo, but here we take the Fv50 (Norwegian county road 50) towards Aurland.

    Hol Gamle Kyrkje

    Historic Site

    Hol Gamle Kyrkje is a 13th century church in Hol municipality. The church was originally a small stave church but has been rebuilt multiple times. The last time it was rebuilt was in 1939, and today it doesn’t have the design that makes it a stave church. It’s believed the floors of the church are the original staves from the stave church. The church is also known for the fact that it has a gutter in the apse.

    Vestland County

    We have crossed back into Western Norway!

    Aurland Municipality

    Aurland is a municipality in Western Norway that includes the popular villages of Aurland, Flåm, Undredal and Gudvangen. It is also home to the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Naerøyfjord.

    People settled here around 2,000 years ago to farm the area, and agriculture is still important in Aurland. Tourism began coming here in the mid-19th century, primarily from England. They took part in sport fishing and hunting.

    The coat-of-arms depict a goat’s head; a goat is a symbol of the municipality because of their historic production and importance of goats cheese and goat farming.

    Aurland Valley

    Natural Attraction

    Aurlandsdalen is a 40km (25 mi) long valley that was carved out by glaciers.

    Aurlandsdalen represents some of the most beautiful and magnificent in Norwegian nature. The valley has been an important trade and traffic road from the ancient times and was probably in use from the early Viking Age. The route was the shortest route between western and eastern Norway in pre-historic times. There are a number of very old farms in the valley that were permanently inhabited until the turn of the 20th century. There are also mountain dairy farms here (called ‘støls’) that can be spotted high on the mountains.

    The rare mountain flower “mountain queen” can be found in the valley. There are almost 500 plant varieties here. The soil is very rich in minerals formed from phyllitt in the rocks.

    Today many use Aurlandsdalen as a popular day hike (6-7 hours), or you can hike all the way to Finse in 3-4 days. It is one of the best-known tourist tracks in Norway

    As we went down, you saw the huge powerlines. The Aurland river system was developed in the 1970s for power production. The environmental impacts of hydroelectric development are notable; the great waterfalls have been substantially reduced. With the introduction of the tunnels, the water level in the river gorges has been drastically reduced. The Aurlands River is now no longer one of the finest salmon rivers in Norway. Farmers no longer drive cattle, pigs and goats to spend the summer at the old farms. The valley has been characterised, like many other valleys, by gradual urbanisation.

    Aurland

    Village

    Aurland is a small village with a population of around 800. The village is the location of the Aurland Shoe Factory, where the famous penny loafers were first made. Another interesting place to visit in Aurland is the Vangen Church, a historic stone church from 1202.

    Aurlandsfjord

    Fjord

    The Aurlandsfjord is a 29km (18 mi) long fjord and is a branch of the Sognefjord, the longest fjord in Norway. The fjord is deep and narrow, generally reaching less than 2km (1.2 mi) wide. Most of the mountains are up to 1800m (5,900ft) tall.

    Flåm

    We have arrived at Flåm, our final destination for this drive. Flåm is a small population with around 300 people, but is one of the most visited places in Norway thanks to the Flåm Railway. 

    You can read the Flåm travel guide below. 

    Flåm Travel Guide

    Next Drive

    Flåm to Bergen

    Flåm to Bergen on the E16

    Follow the next drive as we make our way back to Bergen on the E16. 

    Flåm to Bergen

    Previous Drive

    Voss to Eidfjord

    Making a day trip out of Hardanger? Read about the stretch of road between Voss and Eidfjord. 

    Voss to Eidfjord

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Bergen, Stave Churches

    How to get to Fantoft Stave Church

    How to get to Fantoft Stave Church

    If you’re spending a few days in Bergen, it’s well worth getting out of the city to explore the surrounding region. A popular place to go is the Edvard Grieg Museum, or you can go to one of the mountains for hike, but one of my suggestions is to go and visit Fantoft Stave Church.

    Many people ask me during my walking tours how to get there, and I’ve even had some say that they tried to get there and couldn’t find it! I think one of the reasons about why it’s so confusing is because it can be a little confusing on GPS, and there are also two ways to get to Fantoft – one hard and one easy.

    In this article, I’ve provide an easy to follow overview of how to get to Fantoft Stave Church. I’ll also explain a little bit about the church so you have some information about what you’ll be visiting.

    In this article...

    Bergen Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    History of Fantoft Stave Church

    If you are wondering what is a stave church, I have a whole dedicated page for that. You can visit by clicking here.

    Fantoft Stave Church wasn’t built on this site. It was originally constructed around the year 1150 at Fortun in Sogn, a village on the innermost point of the Sognefjord in Western Norway. If you drive on the Sognefjellet Tourist Road, you pass the site where the church used to stand. The church stood there until 1879, when the town needed a new church. This was fairly common at the time; towns were growing due to better hygiene and health conditions, and in the 19th century it was a requirement that churches could fit a substantial percentage of the population.

    The man who owned the region Fantoft, then a farming area, Consul Fredrik Georg Gade, decided to buy the stave church and rebuild it on his property. The church was moved piece-by-piece and reconstructed on his farm. Some renovations were done to the church to make it look more like Borgund Stave Church.

    Arson

    Fantoft Stave Church stood as a popular attraction until the 6th of June 1992, when it was destroyed by arson. This was the first in a string of church burnings by members of the early Norwegian black metal scene. However, at first it was believed that the church fire was caused by lightning or an electrical fail.

    Varg Vikenes, from the band Burzum, was found guilty of burning four churches in Norway. He had been accused of also burning Fantoft, but was found not guilty for that church. The jury has since called this an error but did not overturn the decision. This is probably because a photograph of the burnt church appears on the cover of the 1993 Burzum EP called Aske, the Norwegian word for ‘ashes’.

    Reconstruction

    Fantoft was reconstructed according to what it looked like before, and since 1997 it has had a fence around it to protect the church from any future arson attacks. There are also a number of security cameras in the area.

    Church Appearance

    The church today heavily resembles Borgund Stave Church, which has been used as the model for a number of church renovations.

    One of the most characteristic features are the dragon heads, which are on the roof. These are a pagan symbol to protect the building against evil forces. At the top of the church is a rooster weathervane, which represents Catholicism and St. Peter.

    The stone cross outside the church is an original cross, believed to have been made in Norway before the first churches were built. It was moved here and the grave is fake to make the church look more authentic.

    Detailed overviews of how stave churches are constructed can be found on my stave church page.

    The Two Paths to Fantoft

    As I mentioned at the beginning, there are two paths to Fantoft: an easy one and a complicated one.

    The easy one is reached by driving or taking the Bybanen. The complicated one is reached by taking the public bus.

    Why is the complicated one, well, complicated? To get to the church from the public bus it’s a very steep path that is guaranteed to be slippery in winter. It’s also not as well-marked as the other path, so it’s easy to get lost. The bus also takes longer and requires one change.

    Getting to Fantoft: the Bybanen

    The best way to get to Fantoft Stave Church is to take the Bybanen from Bergen city centre.

    The Bybanen is the light-rail that goes between the city centre and the airport. From the first stop on the line, Byparken, it will take around 20 minutes to get to Fantoft.

    How to buy a ticket? Easy! There are ticket machines at the Byparken station. You can also download the Skyss app and use that.

    Where to get off? Easy! The stop is called ‘Fantoft’.

    Walking to Fantoft (from Bybanen)

    Okay, here’s the easiest way to walk there without getting lost.

    1. Once you get off the Bybanen, turn left
    2. You’ll see a Meny supermarket. Turn left onto the road just after the Meny (Fantoftvegen is the name)
    3. Follow Fantoftvegen. It will go up-hill slightly. You’ll pass a plant shop across the street on the right.
    4. You’ll eventually see a huge apartment block on the left that looks like a massive roof. You’re getting close! (See picture below for what the building looks like)
    5. Eventually, across the street from the apartment block is the parking for Fantoft Stave Church
    6. The road veers off to the left for a huge concrete office building. To the right of that road, you’ll see a walking path with a sign that says “Stavkirke” – that means stave church!
    7. Follow the walking path for a couple minutes. There will be a huge rock in the middle, and the path kind of (but not really) splits in two. Head to the left
    8. There is Fantoft Stave Church!

    In total, the whole walk takes less than 10 minutes and is not very steep.

    What if I take a taxi?

    Taxi’s are much easier than public transport, of course. However, Norwegian taxi’s are very expensive. Estimate it to cost at least 200 NOK for a one way trip. There is also no taxi rank near Fantoft, so you’ll have to call a taxi to come and get you.

    Visiting inside the church

    While it does look nicer outside than it does inside, I do recommend visiting the inside of Fantoft Stave Church.

    The church is open to the public throughout the summer months.

    In 2022, the church will be open from the 15th of May until the 15th of September and it costs 70 NOK per adult to visit the church.

    You can visit their website here: https://fantoftstavkirke.no/informasjon/

    It’s in Norwegian, but the important bits are clear to see.

    Final Thoughts

    Overall, there’s no need to overcomplicate it by using public buses. Fantoft is very easy to access with the light rail Bybanen. While the bus stops look closer on Google Maps, the path is steep and poorly marked. the light rail is lovely and the path is a pleasant walk. If you follow my route, you’ll be able to visit Fantoft Stave Church easily during your stay in Bergen.

    Bergen Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide
  • Bergen, Geilo, Hønefoss, Oslo, Voss

    Everything You Need to Know About the Bergen Railway

    The Bergen Railway

    The Bergen Railway is undeniably one of the best ways to get between Bergen and Oslo. The entire journey, which takes around 7 hours, crosses valleys and mountains, passes lakes and fjords, and shows you some of the best Norway has to offer.

    Information online can be tricky, so I’ve gathered it all together in one straight-to-the-point article. After the practical information, you’ll find an overview of some of the stations you pass on the trip. 

    If you wish to support me, you can leave a tip by clicking the coffee cup on the bottom left of this screen. Otherwise, leave questions or kind words in the chat section.

    Here’s everything you need to know before taking the Bergen Railway. Enjoy!

    In this article...

    Download this Guide

    All of our guides can be downloaded via our online store. 

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

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    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Information about facilities along the way

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the region & towns
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Facilities including supermarkets, toilets, petrol, hotels, cafes, restaurants with addresses.

    Brief Historical Overview

    The Bergen Railway was built between 1875 and 1909. The first section of the train to be built was the Voss Line, which runs between Bergen and Voss. It opened in 1883 after over a decade of planning and construction. The plan had always been to extend it to Oslo, but by the time the Voss Line was complete, Norway was in a recession. Parliament was not willing to give more money. In 1894, the matter was brought to parliament, and they voted 60 in favour (53 against) to build the Bergen Line. 12 different routes were surveyed over a period of six years. Construction finally began in 1901.

    The construction process, as you might imagine, was very challenging. The high altitudes in a region without roads and a freezing cold climate made it difficult for the workers. The tunnels were all built manually through solid gneiss. The laying of track started in 1906 and took around one year to be completed.

    The original train was a standard gauge. The first services started on the 1st of July 1907 between Voss and Myrdal. An official opening was attempted on 9 December 1907, but the train got stuck in heavy snow. The first train between Bergen and Oslo ran on the 25th of November 1909, and two days later the railway was officially opened at Voss by King Haakon VII.

    The railway was used a lot during World War II for both civilian and military transportation.

    After the war, plans were made to electrify the train. The line was electrified in four stages between 1961 and 1964.

    Practical Information

    Timings

    • How many trains run a day? Four trains to between Bergen and Oslo a day. 
    • What time should I take it? If you are doing the Bergen to Oslo trip with Norway in a Nutshell all in one day, take the train that leaves Bergen around 8am. It’s also a good time to take the train because it gives you time to explore Oslo. The train gets into Oslo around 2:45pm.
    • What’s the best time of year to go? The train operates all year. It really depends on when you are travelling. It’s crowded in summer. I prefer spring: you get all the flowers and trees blooming closer to sea level, but there’s still snow on the mountains. 

    Tickets & Pricing

    • Buying in advance: Tickets can be bought up to 90 days in advance on our national rail website, vy.no. 
    • Does it sell out? Yes! In summer and over winter holidays, it is very common for the train to sell out. Book as early as possible.
    • Are there any discounts?If you keep an eye out and book as early as possible, you may find the minipris tickets. These are heavily discounted, but they do sell out quickly!
    • Norway in a Nutshell: You can book the trip on the Norway in a Nutshell website, and this is worth doing if you are actually doing the Norway in a Nutshell tour (Bergen – Voss – Gudvangen – Flåm – Myrdal – Oslo). However, they tend to charge more than if you just booked it on your own. It’s a matter of ease and convenience. 
    • How much do tickets cost? Ticket prices change a lot depending on the time of year and how close the train is to selling out

    Komfort Class

    • Komfort Class is the ‘first class’ option on the train
    • Komfort Class comes with complimentary tea and cofee, plus charging ports
    • Is it worth it? Honestly, I think so. While the ‘advantages’ of Komfort class don’t seem worth the extra fare, I think it’s worth it because it’s so much more relaxing. In summer, the train gets overcrowded with noisy travellers and luggage. The Komfort section tends to be where the Norwegians go because it’s quieter. Being silent in this section is a little more enforced too. 

    Services on board

    • Cafe: There is a cafe on the train. They have drinks, sandwiches, chocolates, coffee, hot dogs, pizzas, and some warm food items (like a curry with rice). The café gets incredibly busy around the middle of the trip, and the carriage is tiny. It is very unpleasant if you try to get food then. Some items will sell out, too. If you wait to the end of the trip, you’ll be left with hot dogs as an option. I recommend buying cold food early and saving it until you want it. It’s cheaper to buy food ahead of time and bring it on board with you. 
    • Alcohol? No alcohol is served on board
    • Wifi? Wifi is on the train in theory, but how well it works depends on what part of Norway you’re in. For example, it rarely works in the mountains. 
    • Bringing Children: Close to the café is a playroom for children. It’s called the ‘Family Car’. 
    • Language: signs on board are in Norwegian. Announcements are made in both English and Norwegian. 

    Apps

    • The Vy app allows you to download tickets and show them to the conductor. It’s much better than printing the ticket
    • The BaneNOR app allows you to track trains

    Taking photos

    • Bergen to Voss: Mostly the left side
    • Voss to Myrdal: Mostly the right side
    • Myrdal to Finse: Mostly the right side
    • Finse to Geilo: Mostly the right side
    • Geilo to Oslo: Both sides work well.

    For the photographers, the best places to take photos are in the doorways. At each stop, you can open the doors and take a quick snapshot. Just be wary of how long the train is stopping!

    Buss for tog

    If you see this, it means that part of the train journey has been replaced with a bus. It’s inconvenient but it happens if there’s work needed on the train. The bus doesn’t provide food or stops for toilets, so plan in advance.

    Luggage

    The train has very limited space for luggage. If you are breaking up the trip to do Norway in a Nutshell, I recommend having your luggage delivered to your hotel in Bergen or Oslo, depending on which direction you are going. Then take a small overnight bag on board the train with you. Check out the service ‘Porter Service’ (www.porterservice.no)

    Tunnel Reality

    There are over 180 tunnels on the Bergen Railway, so at times your view will be limited. This is very true in Western Norway; you must be quick with the camera!

    The journey: Bergen to Oslo

    Bergen

    City

    Bergen Station opened in 1913, four years after the Bergen Line was completed. Originally, the station was located further west (near where KODE 2 gallery is today). 

    At the time of construction, it was regarded as one of the grandest stations in Norway. The material used is granite and the style of construction is the National Romantic style. 

    As we leave Bergen, on the right side we’ll be able to see the city centre and the Lungegård Lake. 

    Bergen Travel Guide

    Ulriken Tunnel

    Tunnel

    The Ulriken Tunnel is the first tunnel we go through. The tunnel is relatively new; before then, the first 32km (20 mi) of the journey out of Bergen was very slow because the tracks navigated their way around the suburbs. Three tunnels were constructed to eliminate that part of the trip. The tunnels were completed in 1963, and the first train went through in 1964.

    The track is single track, which does create some traffic. A double track is planned. There is also a rumour that a road tunnel will be put through Mount Ulriken, which will eliminate the drive time from Arna down from 40 minutes to 10 minutes. 

    Tip: When we are in the Ulriken Tunnel, you lose internet signal. 

    Arna

    Borough
    • After the Ulriken Tunnel was completed in 1964, Arna station was constructed. The old Arna station still exists, and it is used for the heritage trains that operate on the old Voss Railway in the summer months (click here for more info). 

    Arna is a borough of Bergen with a population of 13,000. With the rumours of a road tunnel, Arna is becoming a more attractive place for people to live. 

    Osterøy

    Island

    After Arna, we begin travelling along the Osterfjord, which is on the left side. If you want to get some photos of the fjord you have to be quick – there are many, many tunnels on this part of the journey!

    The Osterfjord is around 27km (17 mi) long, 1 – 3km wide (0.62 – 1.86 mi) and the deepest point reaches a depth of 639m (2096ft) below sea level.

    On the other side is the island Osterøy. It is Norway’s largest inland island (i.e. not directly adjacent to the ocean) at 328km2 (127 sq mi).

    There are two road bridges that connect Osterøy to the mainland. We’ll pass one of them – the Osterøy Bridge – which is from 1997.

    Trengereid

    Village

    Trengereid is a small village that is still part of Bergen. The village is known for its fabrics factory, established in 1895. At one point, the Trengereid Fabrikker (1895-1999) was one of the major Norwegian manufacturers o lace, ribbon, cord and elastic. You can learn more about the factory on the Industrial Museum website.

    Trengereid is the starting point for many hikes on Bergen’s easternmost mountains, including the tallest mountain in Bergen municipality: Gullfjellet.

    On your right side will the the residential neighbourhood, high on the hillside. On your left will be the fjord, the old factories and the docking facilities.

    Only the Bergen – Voss railway stops here. The station was built in 1908.

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    Dale

    Village

    Dale is located on the western end of the Bergsdalen valley. The population is 1,193. Historically, Dale has been an industrial place. The town was built around the Dale Power Plant and the Dale Factories. When the factories were built around 1879, there was only one small farm. By the end of the 19th century, the factory had around 500 employees.

    On your right side, you’ll be able to see Dale Church (from 1956) as we approach the village. Also on the right side will be the Dale of Norway factory, a famous company that manufactures wool sweaters. There is also a textile mill here.

    The Dale Factory is open, and there is an outlet store if you want to buy a sweater or some yarn at a discounted price (the sweaters are famously expensive!). 

    The E16 (European Highway 16) runs through Dale. Dale Station is mostly used by the Bergen – Voss Railway, though some express trains do stop here. The station is from 1888.

    Voss

    Town

    The journey between Dale and Voss is very scenic, with a famous salmon river alongside side. 

    Eventually the tunnels end and the Voss Lake appears on our right-hand side. For most of the year, the mountains in the background will have snow on them. 

    With a population of 14,168, Voss is a large town and main hub for the region. It’s located between the Sognefjord and the Hardangerfjord, which has made it attractive for tourists. 

    Shortly on your right, just as the train approaches the station, is the Fleischer’s Hotel. The hotel was completed in 1889 in the Swiss Style. The name ‘Fleischer’ comes from a well-known family who have lived in Voss for many generations. The hotel is lovely, and if you want to break up the journey this is a highly recommended place to stay. Voss is a great place to spend a couple days – here’s the VisitNorway page for the town. 

    Voss Station was opened as the original terminal station of the Voss Line in 1883. It was on this platform that King Haakon officially opened the Bergen Railway on 27 November 1909.

    Sometimes the train will spend 10-20 minutes here before continuing. If that’s the case, you can leave the train and take some photos of the hotel and the troll statues that are along the platform.

    You will notice the huge Voss Gondola on the platform. This is a brand new attraction (completed in 2020), and if you go to the top you’ll have amazing views. Click here to view their website. 

    Shortly after leaving the station, you’ll pass the old Voss Church (Vangskyrkja). The church is from the mid-13th century and is built in a Gothic style. The whole region was Christianised by King Olav (Saint Olav), and the first church (a wooden church) was built shortly after that. This stone church replaced the old wooden church. Amazingly, the church was not destroyed during World War II.

    After the church, you’ll see the main downtown area of Voss. It’s very concrete and may seem unattractive. The reason for the concrete facades is the destruction from World War II. After the German invasion of Norway on 9 April 1940, Voss was the main place for the Norwegian Army in the West. The Nazis were met with strong resistance from the Norwegians here. To break down the resistance, the Luftwaffe bombed Voss on 23 and 24 April. The bombing completely destroyed the historic town centre. 

    Voss Travel Guide

    Mjølfjell

    Hiking Area

    Once we are out of Voss, the scenery begins to become more dramatic. The stretch between Voss and Myrdal takes us through a narrow, rocky valley. On your right will be spectacular views out to the mountains.

    We pass many stations along the way, but the train very rarely stops there. Sometimes they do if someone on board has requested the train stop. One such station that may have a stop is Mjølfjell.

    Mjølfjell is a village with mostly cabins – in total, there are about 500 cabins here. Most are used as vacation homes by people from Bergen. The area is very popular for hiking and skiing. In the village you’ll find a grocery store, a chapel, and a military training facility.

    The area grew after the establishment of the Bergen Line. There used to be a number of mountain hotels here. One still stands: the Mjølfjell Mountain Lodge. It is a high-end hotel with an outdoor pool, sauna, hiking trails, ski resort, and much more. Mjølfjell does have road access: the road actually ends here. All the following platforms have no road access.

    The name Mjølfjell refers to the mountain: the colour of the white anorthosite looks like flour, which in Norwegian is mjøl. So the name is ‘Flour Mountain’.

    Upsete

    Hiking Area

    Much like Mjølfjell, Upsete is another place the train may stop at if it’s requested. Upsete does not have a road access. There is a lovely place to stay: Upsete Fjellstove. The hotel is open in the summer and offers hikes and bikes that you can ride on the Rallarvegen.

    The train station opened in 1908 as Opset Station; the name Upsete came in 1921.

    Myrdal

    Junction with the Flåm Railway

    Myrdal is a tiny station but it is very well known due to its location. Myrdal is one end of the famous Flåm Railway – the train journey down to the Flåm village is often regarded as one of the most beautiful train journeys in the world.

    The connection to Flåm was not intended for tourists; rather, it was established to link the Sognefjord to the main Bergen – Oslo train and transport goods and people up from the fjord region. Originally, the connection was supposed to go from Voss down to Gudvangen. In 1908, the decision was made to have the train go from Myrdal to Flåm. They estimated that 22,000 passengers would use the train a year. In 2008, the passenger count was almost 600,000!

    The majority of people who come to Myrdal don’t spend long here; instead they use it as a place to change trains. There is no road connection to Myrdal.

    People did used to live in Myrdal; there are remains of old iron ore mining and animal husbandry. Nobody lives here anymore, though some do own cabins here.

    The station is located between two tunnels on the Bergen Line: The Gravahals Tunnel to the west and the Vatnahalsen Tunnel to the east.

    Myrdal has three platforms. Platform 1 is the principal platform on the mainline, and platform 2 is the alternative mainline platform located on the passing loop. The non-consecutively numbered platform 11 is the platform used by local trains to and from Flåm. The passing loop allows regional trains to cross with freight trains. At the station you’ll find toilets, a cafeteria, a souvenir shop, and a waiting room. The shops are only open in summer.

    Tip:  As we leave Myrdal, keep your eyes on the left. For a few seconds we’ll be able to see down the entire Flåm Valley. It’s just before going into a tunnel!

    Flåm Travel Guide

    Hallingskied

    Hiking Area

    Hallingskeid is the westernmost station of the high mountain stations. It is regarded as one of the snowiest areas on the Bergen Railway. Due to the ewather, the station is located inside a ‘snow superstructure’. These structures are built over railways to protect them from snow in the most exposed areas. A total of 9.5km of the Bergen Railway has a snow superstructure; mostly in Hallingskeid.

    There are no permanent residents at Hallingskeid; the station is operated remotely. In he area are many hiking trails, the Rallarvegen cycle path, and cabins.

    The train will stop here upon request. 

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    Finse Tunnel

    Tunnel

    Just before we get to Finse will be the Finse Tunnel. It is the longest tunnel on the Bergen Railway: 10,589m! (6.5 mi). The tunnel was built to ensure the train could operate all winter. The highest point on the Bergen Railway, 1237m above sea level (4058ft), is passed while we are inside the tunnel.

    Tip: As we leave the tunnel, keep an eye out on the right-hand side for a view of the glacier. If the weather is good, you’ll be able to see it here.

    Finse

    Highest Point

    We’ve made it to Finse! Finse is the highest station on the Bergen Railway and is known across Norway for its plethora of outdoor activities.

    Haugastøl

    Hiking Area

    Haugastøl is another high mountain station that can be stopped at upon request. The station has been unattended since 1997. The station is designed in a mix between the National Romantic Style and Art Nouveau and is from 1908. Haugastøl was originally known as Fjellberg, Norway’s highest altitude farm. People lived there until 1909, and today it is a holiday home.

    Haugastøl marks the end point of the Rallarvegen in the west.

    Geilo

    Ski Town

    Geilo is a small town with around 2,400 people living there. It’s located in the Hallingdal valley, a traditional region in Eastern Norway. Before the train came to Geilo, the area was remote with a few scattered farms.

    Geilo was established as a town when the Bergen Line was constructed. The train facilitated Geilo’s development as the first skiing resort in the country, and it is still one of the largest. It is also known for having some of the most luxurious and expensive holiday cabins in Norway.

    The ski season in Geilo runs from late October to late April, and there are numerous ski centres here for alpine and cross country skiing. Click here for more information about visiting Geilo. 

    Shortly after leaving Geilo, we pass the old Hol station from 1911. Hol Municipality is the largest municipality in Hallingdal, and 91% of the area is located at more than 900m above sea level. 

    The train continues to decrease dramatically. 

    Geilo Travel Guide

    Ål

    Village

    Ål is a small town with around 5,000 people living here. There is a strong cultural tradition here, and folk music is important to the community. The Folkemusikkveka is held every May. The traditional industry here is mostly farming. Many livestock farms ae in operation with small herds of sheep, dairy cattle, and goats. Crop growing is difficult because of the steep valley walls.

    Ål station is served by six express trains, and the station has historic locomotive stables that are protected by the Directorate of Cultural Heritage.

    We are roughly at the midpoint of the Bergen Railway. The train is now 228km from Oslo and 243km from Bergen.

    After Ål, the scenery begins to flatten with forests, rivers, and modest mountain areas. We pass Torpo Station, which used to be the central station in Hallingdal. The station is built in the Art Nouveau style and is identical to the station we saw at Geilo. One of the big attractions here is the Torpo Stave Church.

    Click here for the Ål Tourist Info Site. 

    Gol

    Village

    Gol is part of the Hallingdal Valley. There was a very ancient settlement here; in the year 1000, there were around 26 farms in Gol.

    Gol is located at the crossroads between the E7, Highway 52, and County Road 51, which takes you to Fagernes and the E16. From Gol, you have excellent connections to Valdres, Hemsedal, Laerdal and Sogn.

    Gol does have an industrial feel to it, but there are some fun things to do here as well. The Gordarike Family Park is a theme park designed around the Viking Era. A modern replica of the Gol Stave Church has been built as a tourist attraction in the park. Gol used to have a real stave church, but in the 19th century they sold it to the Oslo Folk Museum, where it currently stands. There’s also an open-air museum located in Gol. It is built around an old farm and consists of barns, lofts and wooden stables plus a mill, school and cabin.

    The station is from 1907 and is a busy station. Historically, this was a junction and important trading centre with heavy traffic.

    The station is served by up to six dailway express trains. This station opened in 1907.

    Just after the train leaves Gol, there are many farms located up on the valley side.

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    Nesbyen

    Town

    Nesbyen is a small town with a population of around 3,500. It has a historic town centre, called Gamle Nes. Most buildings here are from before 1900. The area was mentioned in documents from the 1600s, when the valley of Hallingdal was ruled from Nesbyen. Here’s a nice self-guided walk around Nesbyen. 

    One of the big attractions here is the Hallingdal Museum, which is one of the oldest open-air museums in Norway (from 1899). It has a large collection of wold buildings; the oldest one is the staveloftet from 1340. Another popular place to visit is the old meteor crater just noth of the town. About 650 million years ago, a 200-300m meteorite struck the area.

    There are many outdoor activities to do here. The most popular hike is up Hallingnatten, which is 1314m above sea level. From the top you can see most of Southern Norway, including Jotunheimen in the north and Gaustatoppen in the southwest.

    Nesbyen is known around Norway for having the highest recorded temperature in the country. The record was 35.6C, recorded on 20 June 1970.

    The E7 is located along Nesbyen, which is built over an ancient trade route from Valdres through to Odda in Western Norway.

    The station is served by up to six daily express trains. This station opened in 1907. Trains often stop here. This used to be a central station equipped with turntable for turning locomotives and several industrial tracks.

    Just after Nesbyen is the railway’s longest straight stretch. There are dense forest on both sides of the train. The railway follows the eastern side of the Hallingdal River, while the national highway is on the opposite side.

    Tip: Keep an eye out for the Austvoll Water Tower on the right. In the era of steam locomotives, these water towers were common along the railway. The train had to stop often to replenish so the pressure on the boiler didn’t fail.

    Flå

    Town

    Flå is the last settlement we’ll pass in the Hallingdal valley. Like Nesbyen and Ål, it’s located on the ancient trade route that went through Valdres to Odda in Western Norway. Flå has a population of around 1,000.

    Flå is surorunded by stunning nature. There are forests, agriculture, and mountains as high as 1500m. Flå’s coat-of-arms is the head of a black bear. Close to the town is the conservation area where Norway’s last permanent bear population lived. Today you can see bears in Flå if you visit the Bear Park, which is popular with kids. They don’t just have bears; they also have elk, deer, wolf and lynx.

    The station is served by up two daily express trains. This station opened in 1907. We don’t see much of the village from the station because it’s about 1km away.

    After leaving Flå, we follow the Hallingdal River. Eventually we’ll start passing the Krøder Lake, which was named “Norway’s finest Lake” by Fridtjof Nansen. 

    Hønefoss

    Town

    Hønefoss is a large town and central hub with a population of around 14,000. The town name comes from the waterfall that runs through the town; you will get a glimpse of it as the train leaves the station. The town experienced huge growth during the beginning of industrialisation; the waterfall was exploited for power and sawmills went up in the region. The railway to Drammen was also important for the industrial town.

    Hønefoss is located on the E16, which is the main highway between Bergen and Oslo. It’s also connected to the Norwegian National Road 35 and the National Road 7. The town is located to several factories, including Norske Skog Follum, which works in the timber industry.

    There are many things to see and do in Hønefoss. One of the highlights is the Ringerikes Museum, which is known for its collection of iron, rune stones, and for holding the private collection of Jørgen Engebretsen Moe. Jørgen was a Norwegian author best known for writing a collection of Norwegian folkales which he edited in collaboration with Peter Christen Asbjørnsen. The Norwegian Train Museum is also located here, where the old locomotives are. In cooperation with the Norwegian Railway Club, it is working on the restoration, maintenance and operation of all railway equipment.

    By the station is one of the country’s largest stone vault bridges, built in granite.

    The stretch of railway between Drammen and Hønefoss was completed in 1868 and was used primarily for cargo.

    The idea of a railway between Drammen and Hønefoss was launched in 1846, before any other railways were constructed in Norway. However, nothing happened for a long time. In fact, even the idea of a canal was floated. In 1863, Parliament approved construction of a line between Hønefoss and Drammen. The railway was completed in 1868. The next plan was the Bergen Line, which opened in 1909.

    The region we are in is called Ringerike. It is rich in history and ancient culture. The region has a rich food culture, and the Ringerikspotatoes are quite famous.

    After we leave the station, we’ll be going alongside Tyrifjord’s western side. Tyrifjord is actually the country’s fifth largest lake, and the maximum depth is about 330m. There are 13 fish species in the lake, making it known for its rich fisheries. 

    Vikersund

    Town

    Vikersund is a small town with a population of around 3,200. Historically, the town has been important for the paper industry. Timber was floated down on the Tyrifjord to the Drammen River, where it could then be exported.

    Today Vikersund is known amongst Norwegians for its Ski Jumping Centre. The Vikersund Ski Jump is the world’s largest, and there are seven different slopes within the complex.

    Vikersund was part of the Krøder Railway, which was completed in 1872 and primarily used for industry and transporting passengers. In the summer they operate special steam trains that you can ride.

    After Vikkersund the train passes several old industrial sites that grew up along the river when industrial travel took over towards the end of the 19th century.

    Hokksund

    Town

    Hokksund is a small community that was built up around an old farm. Part of the growth of the town can be attributed to the nearby silver mines at Kongsberg. When silver was discovered in Kongsberg in 1623, the King decided that a road should be built between Kongsberg and Hokksund. This road is the first official road in Norway.

    The railway came to Hokksund in 1866, and this gave way to the development of the local business community. Several businesses still stand along the railway track. The original station burned down in 1897, and the new one was finished a year later. The station is designed in a monumental masonry style, and it is the oldest and best preserved station on this part of the journey.

    After Hokksund, you go across the plainlands of the Drammen Valley. The Drammen river is on our left.

    Drammen

    City

    Drammen is a large city with around 60,000 people living here. The city is located west of the Oslofjord on the Drammen River. Drammen was built up as a trading and industrial city; keep an eye out on the left as we go through Drammen; you’ll see beautiful old factories and the town centre.

    The station opened in 1866 when the railway between Hønefoss and Drammen was completed. From Drammen, you can change trains and take the Sørlandet Line towards Kristiansand and Stavanger.The station is also served by trains to Oslo, Kongsberg and Eidsvoll, regional trains on the Vestfold Line and express trains to Bergen and Kristiansand. Since 2009, it has been the terminus of the Oslo Airport Express train.

    The station has recently been modernised and expanded.

    Shortly after leaving Drammen, we pass the Drammensfjord on the right and the hill area towards Finnemarka on the right. This is one of the most fertile areas in the country.

    Sandvika

    Neighbourhood

    The train may stop at Sandvika. Sandvika has had city status since 2003. The Crown Prince’s residence is at Skaugum. The site goes back to the Middle Ages. It was handed to Prince Olav in 1929, and today it is private property of the royal family, unlike the Royal Palace and OscarsHall, which is owned by the state.

    Oslo Tunnel

    Tunnel

    The last part of our journey is not very scenic: we have to make our way to the other end of Oslo city centre, and to do that we must go through the Oslo Tunnel. The Oslo tunnel is about 3.6km long and opened in 1980, the same time as the Oslo Central Station. Before this, Oslo had two stations: Oslo East and Oslo West. As you can imagine, it was not very practical. Today Oslo West is the Nobel Peace Centre, while Oslo East has been expanded into Oslo Central Station.

    Oslo

    City

    You have made it to Oslo! You can find my guide to Oslo by clicking the button below. 

    Oslo Travel Guide

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  • Bergen, Walking Guides

    Walking on Water: A Walk Through the Development of Bergen’s City Centre

    Vågsbunnen: The Development of Bergen City Centre

    Explore the district of Vågsbunnen, where the city centre of Bergen was built up from the 13th century to the present day! Along the walk, you’ll see some of the oldest homes, churches, and gardens in Bergen.

    Vågsbunnen Historical Overview

    Welcome to this self-guided walk through Vågsbunnen, the name of the district that today comprises where Bergen’s city centre was from the 14th to early 20th century. This district has an original street plan and many original buildings from 1702 onwards. On our walk, we’ll learn about how the people in Bergen developed Vågsbunnen into a city centre to get away from the Hanseatic merchants at Bryggen.

    The area Vågsbunnen used to be a shallow cove that ended in a marsh area. Over time, the wetland area was replenished by natural sludge and illegal garbage dumping, not least by the craftsmen who settled here. Vågsbunnen is one of Bergen’s earliest districts: while merchants settled along Bryggen, the craftsmen settled in this area. Archaeological research shows that the earliest settlement in Vågsbunnen was close to the two churches, which were both by the waterfront. Vågsbunnen became a popular district for shoemakers. Large amounts of leather and tannery waste have been found in the soil.
    Vågsbunnen became known as a district for craftsmen: Kong Oscars Gate used to be called Tailors Street, and we still have Shoe Street (Skostredet) today. Eventually, merchants from England and Scotland settled on the shoreline of the bay and established small trading businesses there. From 1490, the trading district was taken over by Dutch merchants in an attempt to compete with the Hanseatic League.

    Bergen has suffered from many fires (lots of buildings in wood and little regulation will do that), and after a fire in the 1550s, the area turned more into a residential area for craftsmen and the bourgeoise. The governors were tired of the Hanseatic League, so Bergen’s commercial and political centre was moved away from Bryggen to Vågsbunnen. The bay was further filled in using stone from ruined churches, and new commercial buildings were built. The two main ‘allmenningen’ – or wide streets – are from this time.

    The fire of 1702 was the last major fire to destroy Vågsbunnen. Besides the stone cellars and churches, nothing remains from before 1702. After this fire, the area was further developed into an upper-class district. But this didn’t last long; in the 19th century, the bourgeoisie began to move to wider, greener districts like Kalfaret and Nygård. Meanwhile, the houses in Vågsbunnen were divided into apartments and inn, and the district became a little rough and overcrowded. Masonry was (finally) introduced, and new brick tenements went up.
    Meanwhile, Bergen was becoming industrialised. The Lungegård Lake was split in two and heavily filled in to make way for the construction of industrial plants, the train station, and the library. After the last major fire in 1916, the Little Lungegård Lake was further filled in to make a lovely park: Byparken.

    Today Vågsbunnen is still a popular area for bars, cafes, vintage shops and tattoo parlours. It’s a safe district to walk around, but it can feel a little rough in some areas. Still, no other place in Bergen has such a diverse history. Let’s begin our walk!

    In this article...

    Bergen Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    The walk: Vågsbunnen

    Holberg Statue

    We are now standing on water! Yes, this square we are on – Vågsallmenningen – was water 1,000 years ago. What an appropriate place to begin our Walking on Water tour. Across the street, where the fish market is, is where the current shoreline of Vågen (the bay) ends. However, when Bergen was founded over 950 years ago, most of what is today the city centre was actually water. Over the centuries, the bay and lake area have gradually filled in to allow for the development of a city centre. That is what we’ll see today.

    Vågsallmenningen was filled in during the 1550s and the layout is pretty much the same today. Of course, most of the buildings are much newer. On this walk, almost all the buildings we’ll see are from after the fire of 1702. That was Bergen’s largest fire when 90% of the city burned down. The city has always used timber as a primary building material, and Bergen is best described as ‘self-grown’. There were no real street regulations until the mid-19th century. Hence, the fires. Small wooden houses close together without much planning.

    The statue here is of Ludvig Holberg. He was a Danish-Norwegian playwright, historian and philosopher from Bergen. He is known for his comedy plays, and his writings on common law were used by Danish law students for 200 years. While born in Bergen, he spent almost all his life in Copenhagen. Still, we claim him as our own. Edvard Grieg’s Holberg Suite is named after him. The statue is from the mid-19th century and is regarded as one of the finest in Bergen.

    Korskirkeallmenningen

    When walking around Bergen, “allmenningen” is a word you’ll see often. It refers to a wide, open street designed to prevent fires from spreading rapidly between buildings. Most of Bergen’s main streets end in this long word all-men-ing-en. These were Bergen’s only real form of street regulation, and the oldest ones go back to the 14th century. Most, however, are from the 16th century. Including this one.

    If we were standing here in the 1200s, we’d be standing on swampland. The church – Korskirken – would be where we see it today. It stood on a small headland by the water; the tower stands on solid rock. From the 13th century, German shoemakers began to settle to the right of the church. After a fire in 1582, the swamp was filled in. For a time, it was one of the city’s most prominent areas with beautiful houses and linden trees lining the street. Most of the buildings today are from modern times.

    Korskirken

    Korskirken is one of the earliest Bergen churches. It was likely built in wood but replaced with a stone church before 1180 when it’s first mentioned in the old Sagas. Sadly, the church has burned down in 17 of Bergen’s fires. It’s always been rebuilt in a Romanesque style, but the floorplan has changed over time. Today it is a cruciform church.

    On the northern side of the church, it’s possible to see the monogram of Danish-Norwegian King Christian IV. The portal shows damage from the fires. On the other side of the church is a memorial commemorating the dead at the Battle of Alvøen, which took place during the Napoleonic Wars.

    The church no longer operates as a regular church. Today it is a missionary church that helps the homeless and those struggling with drug and alcohol abuse.

    Hollendergaten

    Hollendergaten is one of the first merchant settlements for this part of town. Originally, merchants settled along the east side (Bryggen) and west side (Nordnes peninsula). Archaeological research shows that the street follows the shoreline from the 1000s. The first people to settle here were English merchants in the late 1200s or early 1300s. Over time, the English left and the Dutch settled into Bergen in an attempt to outperform the Hanseatic merchants. The name Hollendergaten means ‘Dutch Street’ and the name is from 1490.

    In the 1600s and 1700s, Hollendergaten became a distinguished street. Many of Bergen’s bourgeoise families lived here. In the 1800s, the bourgeoise moved into new, spacier suburbs Kalfaret and Nygård. The houses here were broken up into cramped apartments and inns.

    The side we have entered today has the church missionary (Kirkens Bymisjon), plus a hostel for the homeless (no. 15). You may see people sitting around but don’t worry – they are harmless.

    Smalgangen

    Smalgangen – ‘the Narrow Aisle’ – is first mentioned on maps from 163 but is far older. It’s a great example of what the streets in Bergen used to look like. Streets were narrow like this so as many businesses as possible could be on the bay. Smalgangen connected Hollendergaten with the piers on the bay. Look up at the first stone building on the left (in the alley). In iron, it has the date “1609” marked as well as the initials “HD”. This is one of the few houses preserved from 17th century Bergen. Further down the alley is a plaque in the wall with the inscription “Herman Schreuder Margrethe Schreuder”. There’s no date, but merchant Herman Schreuder was known to live here in the late 1600s. The plaque was discovered during an excavation in 1937 and has been placed on a 17th century stone cellar.

    Hollendergaten 12

    The white stone building on the street corner is one of the oldest houses in Bergen. A lot of people skip it when walking here because wooden buildings are more unique, but this beauty gives you an idea into what houses looked like in the 1600s if they followed the rules and built with stone instead of wood!

    Hollendergaten 10

    As the city was built up, plots had to be narrow due to the lack of available land and high demand of being close to the piers. Hollendergaten 10 is a typical example of plot size, and it has had this shape since the 1500s. The wooden part is from after the 1702 fire. As with many houses here, it was originally one storey: the second was added in 1847.

    Today the building is protected and since 1948 it has been a printing press. You’ll notice it has an exterior sign of a book. This is an ancient custom in Bergen. For a very long time, most people couldn’t read, so the businesses would not have names out the front but instead these signs. For example, bakers had pretzel signs. This book shows that this business is a printing press.

    There is a beautiful portal on the house, and on the steps, you’ll see a lion. This is supposed to reflect the coat of arms and therefore represents the king. This ties into one of the most stories from this street – that of Dyveke from Amsterdam.

    Hollendergaten 7

    The cellar underneath is from the 1500s or 1600s. Between this house and its neighbour is a narrow alley called “Dyvekegangen”. This is the narrowest alley in Bergen: 90cm wide! Head halfway down it and turn left – you’ll see the original entrance into the cellar. There is a bit of a smell here – today the building is a wine bar. On the exterior are two signboards. One depicts King Christian III, and one depicts Dyveke. Dyveke and her mother lived in this street, and Dyveke was the mistress of King Christian III. The story is fascinating: I’ve included it at the back of this guide.

    Bryggesporen

    The little stretch of road to your left is called Bryggesporen, while the road to your right is called Kong Oscars Gate. ‘Brygge’ means ‘quay’, while ‘spord’ refers to something compressed. ‘Spord’ is a medieval word, and it marks the place where the seafront of Bryggen ended and twisted into a narrow, southbound street.

    The orange/red brick building across the street has been a bakery since at least 1675 – though the building has changed over time. This area was an area where people of various crafts settled, and being a bakery was one of the highest-end crafts. There was a baker’s guild, and they strictly limited the number of bakers in a city to 22. The bakeries were typically passed down through the family. This one was owned by the Martens family. Eventually, the bakery closed, and since then the building has been several cafes and restaurants.

    The McDonalds was built shortly after the 1702 fire and was a private residence for a wealthy merchant. The façade is from 1830 and is one of the best examples of 1830s wooden architecture.

    Kong Oscars Gate

    This is one of the oldest streets in Bergen (from the 1300s) and one of the oldest road connections in and out of the city. Bergen’s landscape is very isolated, and until the mid-19th century, it was common to come into Bergen by boat. Coming in by land was far rarer, and this road was the only one that required no use of ferries.

    The dense settlement didn’t come until the 19th century. Until the 18th century, this was an area of scattered homes and pastures for grazing animals. Eventually, it became known as an area for wealthy merchants. Further down, closer to the city border, institutions and schools were built.

    Start walking along Kong Oscars Gate. The best side to stay on is opposite McDonald’s. Shortly on our right (a few houses down) will be an excellent overview of the old cityscape.

    Korskirkeveiten & Tre-Kroneren

    When you get to the small red hotdog stand, look behind it. I know, it’s tempting to go straight for the hot dog, but stick with me. The view you see behind you – the tower of Korskirken, the wooden houses, and the stone cellar – is an excellent example of what Bergen looked like in the 1500s.

    Korskirkeveiten is one of the oldest and narrowest streets in Bergen. It is leftover from medieval times and probably marks where the shoreline was in the 1000s. Archaeological excavations have found that the area was an open beach until the 1230s. After that, large soil masses were used to fill in the area. We know this is around the time German shoemakers began to settle here. Just behind the hot dog stand is a stone cellar from the 1600s. It is one of the best examples in Bergen, but sadly not much is being done to preserve it. That can be said of this whole area: Despite being such a fantastic example of old Bergen, it has a very grungy feel. It is safe, but I can understand the discomfort.

    I do recommend taking a short detour down Korskirkeveiten, then turn right onto Magdalenegagen and back to Kong Oscars Gate.

    3-Kroneren is a staple of Bergen. It is our most famous hot dog stand and something of a cultural icon.

    Skostredet

    Skostredet has preserved its character from the old times. As the name suggests, this is where the shoemakers settled. For a very long time, the shoemakers were from Germany. Tanning remains and leather from the 1400s have been found here.
    Walk down Skostredet. You’ll notice this area has transformed into a popular street for restaurants and bars. You’ll pass a Roll & Rock American Diner – peak in the windows to see Elvis! – and their New York taxicab. Further down is a yellow wooden building on the left that’s a popular bakery. Next to it is a white building: this is an Italian restaurant called Villani. The chefs are all Italian, and I’ve had Italians say it’s better than the food they have back home!

    On the right, you’ll see a passageway under a yellow concrete building. This courtyard is as it was from 1702. It may still be under construction. If you can’t get into it, go to the entrance at Villani. It is also preserved from 1702. Villani’s outdoor courtyard has a cute umbrella display.

    Østre Skostredet

    The white wooden building on the street corner was destroyed by fire in 2017. They have just finished rebuilding it to look exactly as it did before. Google Maps Street View still shows the building as it was shortly after the fire.

    This was, until the mid-1980s, one of the best-preserved continuous rows of houses. Sadly, in the 1980s, there was a fire between numbers 4 and 6. The plots are still open. If the garage doors are open, head in for a unique glimpse at what Bergen likely looked like in the 1700s.

    As you head down this street, on your right you’ll pass the very popular Literaturhuset – a bookstore and cafe. The wooden buildings on the left are from the 1700s, while the brick buildings on the right were built up in the 1800s. Keep an eye out for the beautiful street art in this area.

    Domkirkegaten

    We’ve made it to the end of the bay! Yes, this is as far as the bay went. A large port structure was found here during archaeological excavations. In the Middle Ages, the street was a wooden bridge that crossed the inner marshy part of the bay. In the 1500s, a stone bridge was constructed here. The Cathedral stood by the bay. The houses in front of us are from immediately after the 1702 fire. Number 6 is the one with port structure remains, plus the remains of a shoemaker’s workshop. 200kg of slag was found here, meaning this was also a place for dumping waste.

    Now that we’ve reached the end of the bay, this walk slightly changes its tune. The next part of the city we will walk through was a centre for the city’s church, councillors and institutions. This was where everything got done. And we will start by heading to the centre of Bergen: The Political District.

    Rådstuplassen

    In the old times, the town hall and main square were in the middle of Bryggen. As the Hanseatic merchants began to dominate there, the locals got frustrated and in the 1550s a decision was made to relocate the town hall here. The Town Hall was put in councillor Christoffer Walkendorff’s house, and until the mid-19th century, it was known as the Prestige Quarter. Sadly, today many of the buildings have been torn down to make way for modern offices. The old council buildings remain. You can see them all from where you are standing. Here’s an overview of what they all are (feel free to walk around and get a close look!)

    The Old Courthouse

    The old courthouse is connected to the prison via a footbridge. It was also a police station. It was used until a new courthouse was completed in Nordnes in 1933.

    Bergen District Prison

    After the Prison Act was passed in Norway in 1857, 56 new prisons were built. The prison is three storeys high and has 57 cells on both sides. It’s believed the layout of the prison is adopted from the prison in Philadelphia. Conditions weren’t as bad as the prison in Philadelphia, but the windows in Bergen prison were too high for them to look out, and the inmates spent most of their time in their cells, where food was served.

    When Bergen had its last major fire in 1916, the prisoners were released and asked to return the next day, which they did. The Gestapo used the prison during the German occupation and built a new floor on the west wing in 1942. In 1943, the prison housed 44 prisoners in the Norwegian ward and 100 in the German ward. The prison closed down in 1990 and it’s currently under protection. Sadly not much is being done to maintain it, though it has been recently painted.

    Bergen Town Hall

    As mentioned above, the town hall was donated by Governor Christoffer Walkendorff. It was his house, which explains why it, well, looks like a house. The materials of the building are from one of Bergen’s original churches, the All-Saints Church. It was common in the 1500s for the wealthy to build elite stone houses for themselves using the remains of churches, which were abandoned after the Reformation. The monogram on the front (opposite side from where we came out) is of King Christian VII, indicating that it was renovated during his time.

    In the cellar is one of Bergen’s most notorious prisons. The cells had horrendous conditions: many accused of witchcraft were subject to torture here, and from 1676 two cells were used for those with mental illnesses. Until the new prison was completed in 1867, prisoners and the mentally ill would share cells. The ill were taken to Dollhuset, Bergen’s new mental facility in Sydnes.

    Stiftsgården

    This grand house was built for the Governor (‘Stifts’ refers to the job). Peasants riots would take place here during times of famine or heavy taxation. In 1765, the Governor was dragged from his house and mistreated by the crowd. His clothes were ruined, and his wig was torn to shreds.

    The house is also known as Hagerupgården after stiftsamtmann Edvard Hagerup (1781-1853), who used it as a government office in the winter. He is the grandfather of Edvard Grieg, whose full name is Edvard Hagerup Grieg. When Edvard Hagerup died in 1853, the Bergen stock exchange bought it to use it as a stock exchange, but it was too far from Torget. Instead, it became municipal offices.

    Bergen Cathedral

    This is one of the oldest churches in the Bergen. It’s from some time in the 1100s and was originally dedicated to St. Olav before coming the Cathedral during the Reformation. The church has been affected by many fires: remains of the original church are found in the northern wall.

    Have a look up at the tower. To the left of the large window, you’ll see a cannon ball stuck in the wall! This cannon call is a relic from a naval battle between English and Dutch fleets in Bergen harbour in 1665. The Dutch sought protection in Bergen, and during defence cannon fire rained upon the town causing damage. One of the cannon balls got stuck in the Cathedral. Every time it falls out, we stick it right back in!

    The Latin School

    The Latin School has traditions going back to 1152. It was a school where upper-class boys were sent to learn subjects related to priesthood. The curriculum was probably the same from the 12th century. They learned to read the bible in Latin and Greek, they learned to sing. One of the students was Gjeble Pederssøn, Bergen’s first protestant bishop. Another is Ludvig Holberg, the man whose statue we saw at the beginning of this walk. The school closed in 1840 and today it’s a school museum.

    Tanks School

    The school was funded by Hans Tank and his wife. They had no children, so donated their money to the construction of the school. They wanted subjects to move away from the church and towards practical subjects like commerce, language, natural sciences and physical education.

    The most famous student is Edvard Grieg. There used to be a plaque dedicated to him, but it was removed a year or two ago for unknown reasons. The school has been closed since 2014 and today the building is abandoned.

    Bergen Cathedral School

    This is one of Norway’s oldest schools, with traditions going back to the 12th century. The school originally stood close to the Bergen Fortress area. It was moved here during the Reformation in an attempt to align it closely with the new Protestant religion at the Cathedral. This was a school reserved for the elite. Today, it’s a public school.

    Opposite the school is the private Danielsen upper-secondary school. It’s new but is regarded as one of the top end schools in Bergen. It is private as it is associated with religion.

    Seminarium Fredericianum

    The Seminarium Fredericianum was founded in 1767 and is today Norway’s oldest kindergarten. When the school was founded, it was considered the first in Norway to focus on ‘practical’ subjects such as maths, physics, literary history, German and French. The purpose of the school was to professionalise trade in the city. Like many schools at the time, it was only for boys. The school sadly never became popular, and it closed in 1808.

    From 1851, it was operated by the Bergen Child Asylum Foundation as a place to raise children from poor homes or children with busy parents. The children were sponsored by wealthier citizens to attend the school. The girls learned needlework and singing, and the boys learned reading, writing, singing and physical education.

    Today the school is a private daycare. Look out the front – if you’re here on a weekday you may see prams/strollers chained to the daycare. This is very common! The hillside in the background is covered in my “Along the Hillside” walk.

    And there’s our overview of schools! Now we are going to pass some of the old institutions of Bergen.

    Danckert Krohn Foundation

    This building is one of the institutions established by the bourgeoise in Bergen to support the less fortunate. It was a common trend in the 1700s. This one was funded by Danckert Krohn, a wealthy merchant and businessman, as a facility for the elderly. Before Danckert built his institution, it was a nitrate plant. The walls from the plant are used as a fence around the garden. Today the centre is a welfare and medical centre for the elderly.
    The troll mural behind it is probably the most famous in the city. It’s by the same artist as the other troll mural we saw: M.u.M.

    St. Jørgens Hospital

    This hospital is dedicated to St. George, the patron saint of the uncurable sick. It is the oldest hospital in Norway; it was first mentioned in 1411 but was an old hospital back then. The hospital has always been primarily a leprosy hospital. Bergen had higher rates of leprosy compared to elsewhere in Northern Europe; this is due to Bergen’s high density and poor hygiene. In the 19th century, many physicians in Bergen began researching the disease. In 1873, Armeur Hansen discovered the leprosy bacillus.

    Marken

    Marken takes its name from the meadows and fields of Nonneseter Abbey, which we’ll learn about soon. This also marks (get it?) the southern boundary of Bergen old city. Today it is a commercial street that is very popular with the locals.

    Strømgaten

    We’re now in another part of the city that is built on water. On this side of the city we have the Lungegård Lake (covered in a separate self guided walk). This lake was filled in throughout the 19th and 20th centuries to make way for new industrial buildings and a commercial centre. Everything in front of us is built on the lake.

    Strømgaten means “The Stream Street”. As the name indicates, a stream used to run through here. Bergen Train Station is directly across from us.

    Bergen Library

    The library (from 1917) represents a short-lived trend where Scandinavian architects wanted to use raw stone for facades to express national character. If you look at the train station next door, you’ll see a similar style. Bergen Library has a rich collection of manuscripts and printed works from Bergen. Among its treasures are the music collection, a series of Edvard Grieg’s original sheets of music. Should be on display.

    Nonneseter Monastery

    The white stone building next to the library is the remains of the Nonneseter Monastery. The monastery was founded in the 1140s-1150s, and this is one of the only (complete) remains of a monastery in Norway. It operated as a monastery until the 1400s, when the women were supposedly chased out of town for being too promiscuous. In 1528 the monastery was given to Vincens Lunge, who converted it into a large estate. For the next few hundred years, it was a residence for some of Bergen’s most powerful families. Gradually it was built up and in the 19th century this became an industrial area. Today the remains of the monastery are a memorial for war victims.
    Now we cross the Bybanen tracks and head into the city park: Byparken. If you follow the narrow pathway between the bushes, you are walking through a special section of the park dedicated to Bergens rhododendrons. Bergen is famous as the city of rhododendrons.

    Enjoy More of Bergen

    Visit the travel guide page to see road-trips, restaurants, and top activities that you can do. 

    Bergen Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide
  • Bergen, History, World War II

    The Most Haunted Places in Bergen

    Haunted Places in Bergen

    I love haunted stories. Every time the husband and I travel somewhere, we do a ghost tour. No, I do not care for ghosts or scary stories. Instead, I like the stories of the everyday and the weird that makes a town sound more unique. Typical walking stories tend to focus on kings, the upper class, and famous people. Ghost stories focus on the lower class, the merchants, the poor. It’s fascinating. So, in the spirit of Halloween, I had to seek out the most haunted places in Bergen.

    Like any good ghost story, the haunted places of Bergen are local legend and not really written about in English. I had to dig through newspapers, Norwegian blogs, and other websites to find the good stuff. Bergen has some crazy stories, as this page will tell.

    If you know any ghost stories in Bergen (or surrounds) add them in the comments!

    In this article...

    Bergen Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Criminals in the Rosenkrantz Tower

    The Rosenkrantz Tower is intimidating in its own right, but anyone who has been inside knows how eerie the basement is.

    A little bit about the tower. It was originally built in 1270 as an apartment for the King, Magnus the Lawmender. When Bergen was part of Denmark, the Danish lord Erik Rosenkrantz built the tower in its current form. There have been alterations to the tower before Rosenkrantz, but his is the most famous. The dungeon was added around the year 1500.

    The dungeon is 4m x 1m, and the ceiling is just high enough to stand up in. Light only comes through a crack in the walls, which are very damp. Imprisoned here were the worst prisoners. The cell was in use from the 16th until the 19th centuries.

    Eternal Guest at the Radisson Blu Hotel

    Maybe you’ll be staying at the Radisson Blu on your stay? Skip this section if so.

    Okay, for those of you who stayed. Before a major renovation at the Radisson Blu, the staff observed strange things. The events took place on the second floor near the nightclub.

    Staff saw the ‘eternal guest’ often. In the mornings, they saw him with a beer glass. The revolving doors into the kitchen also moved without anyone being there. Some employees even reported seeing a shadow following them in the corridors. Sometimes a figure would be seen on the dance-floor after closing time.

    The staff elevator is one of the most affected places. It can only be used with a code, and it links the party rooms to the kitchen. Occasionally the elevator would stop by itself on the second floor. The doors would open and everything was completely dark. No one had been to this floor.

    So, there’s a beer-loving disco ghost wandering the party rooms of the Radisson Blu.

    Hauntings at Bryggen

    Bryggen Tracteursted

    Bryggen Tracteursted is a restaurant located behind Bryggen. It’s in a schøtstuene (assembly room) built in 1708. Of course it’s haunted.
    One night a chef was working while playing some music. Suddenly, the pans from the shelves fell off. The chef is sure that something supernatural was the cause of the events.

    The Hanseatic Games

    Bryggen in general feels very haunted. After all, this is where people have Bergen have lived since the 11th century. It’s the Hanseatic times (1360-1754) that have some creepy stories. In particular are the games that the apprentice merchants would play. One is the water game, held in May. The new boys went to ships on the bay. Their clothes were taken off and a rope tied around their waist. They were then tossed into the water and hoisted up. They repeated this several times. Out at sea, several older men waiting with a rowing boat, armed with sticks. They tried to hit the wet boys. After the ceremony, the boys went back to continue serving the dinner party. One boy is believed to have died when his belly was torn open by a protruding nail outside the ship.

    There are so many stories of these games. Another one is the smoking game. Older boys made a fire, and the younger boys were tied up in ropes and lifted up above the fire. While hanging, the boy was asked questions that he should know the answer to, mostly about the business. If he got the answers right, he was released. If he got an answer wrong, he was lowered further into the fire. One boy is said to have died. The statue outside Svensgården represents that the boy came out of the fire looking he had multiple eyes and noses.

    Lonely Mother at St. Jørgens

    St. Jørgen’s Hospital is one of the best preserved leprosy hospitals in Europe. The Nonneseter Abbey constructed the hospital in the 1300s to treat the growing number of patients. Over the years it developed into one of Bergen’s most important hospitals. Armeur Hansen discovered the cause of leprosy in Bergen and worked near the hospital.

    The patients of St. Jørgens had to live in the hospital. They were self-sufficient with their own vegetable gardens and livestock. They would share rooms roughly 2m x 2m, but had a large kitchen and common area.
    One of my friends once told me a story about the hospital. Now, every time I walk through the hospital grounds (it’s part of my walking tours) I am reminded of this haunting story. A woman was admitted to St. Jørgen’s for having leprosy and had to remain on the property. Every Sunday, a nanny would bring the woman’s children to play in the park across from the hospital. The children had been told their mother had died, and they were unsure why they were playing in this park. They were brought here so their mother could see them.

    Today St. Jørgen’s is the leprosy museum of Bergen, with exhibitions and guided tours.

    Cemeteries around Bryggen

    Cemeteries are always creepy. They are also always haunted. St. Jacobs has an interesting story. Established in 1629 as a cemetery for the poor, it is the oldest cemetery in Bergen. Back then it was very uncommon to bury the poor in marked graves. So, between 60 and 70 percent of the dead had unmarked graves. Meanwhile, the wealthy were buried inside the churches – often in the floor or crypts in the basement.

    In the 19th century, it became less common to bury the wealthy in the church. After all, imagine the smell coming from the church? Eventually, St. Jacob’s became a cemetery for the upper class. The graves of many famous Bergenser’s are there.

    An honourable mention goes to the cemetery around the Bergen Cathedral. That cemetery was the leprosy cemetery. It got so full that they made cemeteries like St. Jacobs.

    Further down the road is the Assistant Cemetery. In 2016, when they were doing work on the railway, they found skulls belonging to 50-60 people. They were likely buried in the 19th century.

    Bergen Prison

    The prison in Bergen was built in the mid-19th century. A reform in the country meant new prisons based on the Philadelphia system. This meant one prisoner per cell, and harsh treatment of each prisoner. The Bergen prison did built one cell for each prisoner, but it became known for being nice to the prisoners. During the 1916 fire, the prison was in peril. The prison management let the prisoners go, asking them to come back the next day. With one or two exceptions, the prisoners returned after the prison wasn’t lost in the fire.

    The Gestapo took over the prison in 1940. One of the Gustapo’s prisoners was Gunvor Mowinckel, who was imprisoned here 1944-45. She and her husband were sheltering refugees during the Norwegian resistance and arrested for this. After an interrogation and torture by the Gestapo, they are imprisoned here. Gunvor wrote:

    “At a point in the Gestapo HQ I was asked by Kesting (Gustapo) how many children I had. When I answered, Kesting said that the children of such a terrible individual weren’t worthy of life.

    Later that day we were transferred to the Bergen County Jail. It was a horrible time. I think the fear for the children and what was coming next was the worst.”

    The prison is now abandoned and certainly has a creepy vibe about it. While the stories aren’t exactly scary, there’s something eerie about the building.

    Town Hall Prison

    The town hall prison is creepier than the main prison. The basement had a cell for 12 prisoners and a room for the mentally ill. There was no fresh air. If they had the opportunity to move around, it was in the corridor outside their cell. No outdoor area was available to them. It wasn’t a prison but a holding cell before sentencing. Prisoners could wait up to two years in this basement cell with stench, darkness, no light, no heat, and no comfort.
    When they were sentenced, they were sent to prison or executed.

    Executions were commonplace. For example, in 1630 they executed a woman for stealing from the parish clerk. In 1632 they accused a girl of causing a shipwreck – she was clearly a witch. After torture, the girl pointed the finger at another woman for causing the disaster. This woman was also executed. If the crime was petty, prisoners were deported to Northern Norway. In 1692, wealthy merchant Jørgen Thormøhlen got permission from the King to take prisoners to his colony in the West Indies.

    As mentioned above, there was a bedlam next to the holding cell. They likely received no treatment. Back then, the mentally ill were treated poorly. For example, in 1634 they executed a man for helping treat someone back to their sanity.

    A room is still preserved in the basement, but it’s seldom open to the public.

    The Apprentice

    Kløverhuset is a shopping mall located on Strandgaten in Nordnes. The shopping mall made news many years ago for noises that were coming from it at night. The noise was so intense that the locals complained to the press. It gained so much attention that a clairvoyant came to inspect the mall. The clairvoyant said she spoke to a figure named Albert Albertsen. Turns out, he was an apprentice to Johan Petersen, the man who started Kløverhuset in 1852.

    No reportings of Albert have been made in recent times, but maybe he’s still there?

    Gestapo Headquarters

    The Gestapo was an executive branch of the German security police during the Second World War. Germans occupied Bergen during the war. The Gestapo had their headquarters in a building close to the theatre. The building became known as a torture site and a symbol of the oppressive occupying power in Norway. Brutal methods when interrogating people became a trademark of the Gestapo.

    Following the drama in Telavåg in 1942 (click here to read about that), the Gestapo brought in the villagers for interrogation. One woman, Martha, did not want to tell the Gestapo about what was happening in Telavåg. She also didn’t want to identify the Norwegians who were part of it. To force a confession, the Gestapo beat Martha with wooden sticks until she lost consciousness.

    800 to 900 prisoners were subjected to violent interrogations by the Gestapo, where they were tied up and hung up in meat hooks in the basement or in offices further upstairs. A total of six resistance fighters died as a direct result of the Gestapo’s torture. 

    The Gestapo tortured many victims to death. To avoid breaking during interrogation, several prisoners jumped to their death from the 4th and 5th floors.

    After the war, the Gestapo in Bergen were convicted of war crimes and sentenced to death. Today a memorial stands outside the building for those who were tortured and died.

    A museum is currently being developed on the fourth floor, where four graves have been preserved. Read more here

    Octavia the Friendly Ghost

    Every theatre has a ghost, and Bergen’s is the friendliest. Her name is Octavia Sperati, and she is one of the female actors from the theatres early days. She is a useful ghost, taking care of the building and the people working there.

    There are several sightings of Octavia. She is observed as a woman in a white dress flying around the corridors. There are reports of knocking noises, footsteps in corridors, and paintings falling off the wall. Some even claim to hear her voice.

    If you want to see her, there is a portrait of her in the lobby. The painting has survived fires and bombings, so people think she’s the ghost.

    Ghosts in the Natural History Museum

    Rakkerdammen is a swamp area located close to the Natural History Museum. The swamp is gone, the remnants are now a pond. The site is an old execution site; ‘rakker’ means ‘executioner’. In the old times, children were told to avoid the swamp as the ghosts could take them into the swamp.
    It’s believed the ghosts haunt the Natural History Museum.. After all, it’s built on the old court square next to the execution site. Unusual activities are said to be the ghosts of those executed. The last execution was in 1803. Anders Lysne was beheaded for leading a farmers’ revolt against forced military service.

    Some of the objects inside the museum are also haunted. The Egypt department has 5,000-year-old statues on display that turn and move. This is even though they are behind glass. Observations of a monk have also been made. The old monk is moving around in the church exhibition area.

    Sibling Drama

    There’s sightings of ghosts near the old Munkeliv Monastery in Nordnes. It’s not from the monastery itself; the monastery is today a park. Rather, it comes from one of the houses close by. Yes, Bergen has a haunted house. The story goes that two siblings were romantically involved with one another and living in a house in Nordnes. The sister got pregnant, which is of course a bad thing. The couple killed the child when it was born. Then it is said the brother killed the sister before hanging himself.

    The park over the monastery is also said to be haunted. After all, the soil was taken from an old cemetery where Bergen’s worst criminals were buried. We’ll explore them now.

    Execution on Nordnes

    The majority of executions took place on the Nordnes Peninsula. There are two separate sites: Galgebakken and the area close to the aquarium.
    Galgebakken means ‘gallows’, and it’s where some executions took place. It is also where pillories were to punish and humiliate prisoners.

    The site close to the aquarium is famous for its witch burning. Over 100 women burned at the stake for being a witch in Bergen. The most famous is Anne Pedersdatter Beyer, who was the widow of priest Absalon Beyer. During the witch trials, it was very uncommon for upper class women like Anne to be accused of witchcraft. Typically, witches came from the lower classes. Being accused of witchcraft could be due to ordinary, everyday accidents. The worse accusations involved women taking part in accidents, most often shipwrecks. It’s believed they burned Anne for being a witch because she was unpopular in Bergen. After all, once you are accused, it was hard to fight that.

    Later on, the site was used for executions. Between 1842 and 1902, 1888 people were sentenced to death in Norway but only 20 were executed. Four people were beheaded in Bergen after 1814 on this site. One was the counterfeiter Jens Fenstad. Another was murderer Jakob Alexander Jakobsen Wallin. The latter was the last public execution in Bergen in 1876. 5,000 people were present when Jakob was executed. Those present were from the lower classes. The upper classes had read in the newspaper to stay away from the execution.

    St. Pauli Cemetery

    The site where St. Pauli Cemetery used to be is said to be the most haunted place in Bergen. The cemetery was established around 1650 for the poor and criminals of Bergen. It is often said that there were ghosts both inside and outside the walls. This is because they buried the poor in the walls. Meanwhile they buried the executed criminals outside the walls. Jens Fenstad, the counterfeiter, was buried outside the wall. A stone slab was over his grave until the end of the 19th century. A courthouse used to stand next to the cemetery.

    Ever since the cemetery was built over and the area got gas lanterns (and now modern lighting), the ghost activity has calmed down. Additionally, in the late 19th century the remains were moved to Møllendal Cemetery. The soil was used to built Nordnes Park, which they think has hauntings from the criminals.

    Resources

    histos.no / An excellent website with historical stories about Bergen

    Nordnes Republikken / A blog about the Nordnes Peninsula

    NRK.no

    BT.no

    Bergen Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide
  • Bergen, Walking Guides

    Basics of Bergen Self-Guided Walking Tour

    I’ve put together a Bergen self-guided walking tour designed to inspire and plan your trip to Bergen!

    This walking tour is for those who may be in Bergen for a limited time, or may be wondering what they can do with their time. The tour doesn’t go over much history and everyday life topics that I cover in my other walking tours. Rather, it explains what you can see and do in Bergen.

    In this article, I’ve provided not just the walking tour but links to other pages on my website where I explain the topic in greater detail.

    Here we go!

    Join me on a walking tour!

    I do in-person walking tours of Bergen too! If you want to experience Bergen with a guide, click the button below to see my tours.

    https://www.ilovebergen.net

    Bergen Self-Guided Walking Tour

    Start: Bryggen

    Bryggen

    Here we are on Bryggen, Bergen’s UNESCO World Heritage site. Bryggen, which is ‘wharf’ in Norwegian, was built in the 12th century. It was the commercial centre of Norway and is likely Scandinavia’s first commercial town. 

    Between 1360 and 1754, Bryggen was the trading centre of the Hanseatic League. They were a German merchant organisation that dominated trade in the Baltic and North Seas. After a fire in 1955, the first archaeological excavation took place under Bryggen. Most importantly, the remains of the first-ever warehouses were discovered along with hundreds of objects from life in the 13th century. In short, they are on display at the Bryggen Museum.

    Bergen Fortress

    If you keep walking straight ahead, you’ll reach the Bergen Fortress. Called ‘Bergenhus’, the fortress area is from the 13th century when Bergen was the capital of Norway. King Håkon Håkonsson had ‘Håkon’s Hall’ constructed for the royal wedding of his son, Magnus the Lawmender. When Magnus became King around 1270, he wrote down the first laws of Bergen (hence his name) and had the stone tower you see constructed. 

    When Norway became part of Denmark in the 16th century, the Danish lord of Bergenhus, Eric Rosenkrantz, reconstructed the tower and named it after himself. Many of the old royal buildings were torn down, including a 12th century church. The fortress became more military than royal house. During World War II, the German soldiers used Bergenhus as a base. Certainly, you can see remains of buildings from the 11th century up until World War II. 

    We don’t walk into the fortress on this Bergen self-guided walking tour; it’s worth covering on its own walk.

    Read more: A walk through the Bergen Fortress

    Bryggen Museum

    The Bryggen Museum focuses on the life of Bryggen, the wharf area in Bergen. For example, the museum displays hundreds of objects categorised according to their everyday purpose, including game pieces, hair combs, religious artefacts, clothing, and even a toilet! The museum has just undergone a major renovation and is well worth visiting. One of my favourite displays is a large television screen that goes through the development of Bryggen and all the fires we’ve had – there has been dozens! The souvenir shop is also worth visiting, and there is a café inside. 

    Bryggen Museum website

    St. Mary’s Church

    This is the oldest building in Bergen. That is to say, it was built between 1130 and 1170, St. Mary’s Church has seen the least damage from fires and remains more or less original. The two towers are from the early 14th century, and the stained glass window is the first in Norway. Inside the church is incredibly well decorated. This is because the Hanseatic League thought St. Mary’s Church was a good luck charm. Most importantly, they brought artwork from all over Europe to the church. Inside, the artworks span a period of 400 years from all over Europe. Today St. Mary’s Church is Anglican, though it was built as a Catholic Church. 

    Sandviken Area

    If you turn left and walk for around 10 minutes, you’ll reach the suburb Sandviken. Sandviken is a historic fishing village with many 18th century wooden houses. Above all, it’s very charming and very ‘Bergen’. At Sandviken you’ll find the Fisheries Museum, the Fjellveien scenic footpath, and a little further along is the Gamle Bergen open air museum. 

    We don’t walk into Sandviken on this Bergen self-guided walking tour; it’s worth covering on its own walk. For example, I’m currently putting together a Sandviken walk.

    Fløibanen Funicular

    The Fløibanen is a funicular that will take you to the top of Mt. Fløyen, one of the seven mountains that surrounds Bergen city centre. The mountain is 320m (1000ft) high and has gorgeous views from the top. Most importantly, during busy times of the day, the funicular runs continuously and takes 5-8 minutes to reach the top. You can download an app to buy tickets and see the schedule or buy on at the ticket counter. 

    Behind the funicular station you’ll see a zig-zag path to the top. Follow this if you’d rather hike to the top of Mt. Fløyen. The hike takes about 45 minutes and is considered an easy hike (by Norwegian standards). Signs will lead you to the top. 

    We don’t walk up Fløyen on this Bergen self-guided walking tour; it’s something to do on your own.

    Read more: Walking up Mt. Fløyen

    Fløibanen Website

    Lille Øvregaten

    For instance, this is just an idea of what you can find in this area. If you begin to walk on the streets on the side of the hill, you’ll find old timber houses with plenty of charm. One of my favourite things to do in this area is to just get lost! I’m working on a walking tour called ‘Along the Mountainside’ which will take you through the most secret of narrow streets. It’s due in early 2021.

    The Allmenningen Streets

    This wide street is called an ‘allmenningen’. This is a purposely built street from the 16th century designed to prevent fire spreading rapidly between buildings – you’ll notice many streets in Bergen end in the word ‘allmenningen’. 

    Kong Oscars Gate

    Kong Oscars Gate is one of the oldest roads in Bergen. It is the old highway leading to southern Norway. Along this road, you’ll find many historical buildings. Along Kong Oscars Gate and up on the hill is the same layout from after the largest fire in Bergen, 1702. Most of the buildings date from that period. 

    If you turn left and follow the road, you’ll pass the Shoe Street (Skostredet) with many cool restaurants and bars). Then you pass the Bergen Cathedral, Leprosy Hospital, and end up at the historic city gate. The city gate is around a 10-15 minute walk from where you are now. Past the gate is the wealthy area Kalfaret and the Lungegård Lake, both covered in separate walking tours.

    If you turn right, you’ll pass 18th-century wooden houses with many trendy bars and cafes. A little further down is the famous hot dog stand of Bergen. The road to the right ends at Bryggen. 

    Kong Oscars Gate is not covered in depth on this Bergen self-guided walking tour. I am working on a separate self-guided walking tour for this fascinating part of town! For example, walk up and down it on your own to see all the history here.

    Church of the Cross

    This is one of three medieval churches left in Bergen: the other two are the Bergen Cathedral (Domkirken) and St. Mary’s Church. Unlike St. Mary’s Church, Korskirken has been affected by almost every fire Bergen has had (remember – dozens!) and been rebuilt in a different style every time. The name comes from a legend that the first Korskirken was built with a piece of Christ’s cross in the walls. Today the church is used by the missionaries in Bergen.

    Torget & The Fish Market

    We are now on the square, Torget (translates to ‘the square’). Here you can see a statue of Ludvig Holberg. He’s a famous 17th/18th century writer and political figure. You may recognise the name from Edvard Grieg’s Holberg Suite. Grieg wrote the Suite on Holberg’s 200th birthday. 

    Across the street, past the statue, is the fish market. The fish market in Bergen is famous – here you can try many local products from salmon to cod to trout, tuna, and more. There’s also Red King Crab from the Barents Sea, seal oil, whale meat, paella, dried fish snacks, mussels, and anything that comes from the sea. It’s a great place to try fresh seafood. The large glass building has a seafood restaurant on the lower floor. The tourist information centre is on the higher floor. 

    Torgallmenningen

    We are now in a part of Bergen that is more modern. That is because it was affected by the last great fire of Bergen in 1916, and everything we see was rebuilt after that period.

    On Torgallmenningen you’ll find shopping centres (Galleriet and Xhibition) and many department stores. 

    The Blue Stone

    The Blue Stone is the meeting point of Bergen. Just past the Blue Stone you’ll see St. John’s Church (Johanneskirken), the largest church in Bergen. It’s from the late 19th century. If you walk up to St. John’s Church and then turn left you’ll be in the University area with museums and a botanic garden. Past that is the working-class suburb of Møhlenpris and the gorgeous Nygård Park. To the right of St. John’s is the hidden area of Sydnes – a historic timber house suburb. At the end of Sydnes is the Hurtigruten Terminal. 

    Turn to your right. At the top of the slope is a large concrete building. This is the Theatre. It was established by the famous violinist Ole Bull in 1850 as the first theatre in Norway to perform in Norwegian. Before then, Danish was seen as the language of the elite and was more widely used. Outside the theatre is a statue of Henrik Ibsen, the famous Norwegian playwright. He worked in the theatre when he was in his 20s. If you continue past the theatre you’ll be in the suburb Nordnes – regarded as one of the most picturesque suburbs of Bergen. At the end of the Nordnes Peninsula is the Bergen Aquarium.

    However, Nordnes and Sydnes are not covered in this Bergen self-guided walking tour. They will be covered in their own walks – coming soon!

    The Pavilion

    This pavilion is from the late 19th century, though it was basically replaced during the last restoration in 2019. The plants here change according to the season. 

    To the left, you’ll see a statue of Edvard Grieg. Edvard Grieg is Norway’s most famous composer. He was born in Bergen in 1843 and lived most of his life here, passing away in 1907. Grieg is attributed with showcasing Norwegian folk music and being inspired by nature. About 10km (6 mi) outside of Bergen is Troldhaugen, Edvard Grieg’s home and today a museum. It is well worth visiting, especially between May and October when they have daily lunchtime piano concerts there. 

    They play Beethoven, Mosart, etc. Just kidding, of course they play Edvard Grieg music! The brick building behind Grieg is the Telegraph Building – today it’s a department store. 

    Read more: The Edvard Grieg Museum, Troldhaugen

    To the right is another brick building. This is the first of the four KODE art galleries. These are the large collection of art galleries in Scandinavia. The first KODE gallery displays various crafted objects. The opening hours change quite a lot, so check the website for details. We’ll see the other KODE galleries at our next and last stop: Byparken

    Byparken

    Here we are at Byparken! This park was laid out in the early 20th century. Before then, this lake connected to the fjord and many people used to dock their boats in this area. I cover this topic more on my Lungegård Lake walking tour. Byparken is used for many festivals and markets, including our Christmas Market and Food Market. On Norway’s National Day, 17 May, this is where the festivities are. 

    Above all, the large mountain the background is Mt. Ulriken – the tallest of the seven Bergen mountains at 640m (2000ft). It is possible to take a cable car to the top. A minibus departs from the fish market in the summer months to take you there. 

    Between the lake and Mt. Ulriken is the train station, the library, and the bus terminal with a large shopping centre on top (Storsenter). To the left of the lake, you’ll see a row of colourful houses. Many of Bergen’s newest and coolest cafes are opening up in these houses. Behind them are 18th-century wooden houses in the area ‘Marken’ – this is also where the Leprosy Hospital is. 

    To the right of the lake are the other three KODE galleries. KODE 2 is for modern art (and has a shop and café). Most importantly, the third KODE has Bergen’s Munch exhibition as well as a very good National Romantic exhibition. KODE 4 has famous foreign artworks and an exhibition for Nicolai Astrup. it also has the highly-rated ‘Lysverket’ restaurant.

  • Bergen, Hardangerfjord, Ulvik

    Driving from Bergen to the Hardangerfjord

    I think one of the best ways to see Norway is by car. It may seem a little intimidating at first, with all those mountain roads, ferries, tolls, and crazy expensive petrol. But if you plan accordingly and have the budget for it, you’ll get to see the best bits of nature. And one of the best things to do is driving from Bergen to the Hardangerfjord.

    There are two ways to get to the Hardangerfjord from Bergen: the Hardanger Scenic Route and the main highway to Granvin through Voss. The Hardanger Scenic Route certainly sounds appealing, but if narrow fjord-side roads make you nervous, or you’re short on time, the main highway is an excellent alternative.

    (click the image to see it larger)

    I’ve done both ways so many times; my family is from the innermost part of the Hardangerfjord so we always try to make a day of it when we are going to the farm. Also, it’s common to do day tours to Hardanger from Bergen.

    For my overview, I’ve used Granvin as the end-point. It’s not really famous for anything; it’s a crossroads. From Granvin you can head to Ulvik, Eidfjord, Utne and Odda: four very popular places to spend the night. The advantages of each of them:

    The Hardanger Bridge, which you take to Eidfjord and Odda

    Where to Stay in Hardanger

    Ulvik:

    • The famous Brakanes Hotel is a good option for the night
    • Ulvik has the apple cider route, where you can visit farms and try their produce

    Eidfjord:

    • Leads up to the famous Vøringsfossen and then the scenic road over the Hardangervidda National Park down to Oslo
    • Hardanger Nature Centre is located here
    • Beware – major cruise port!

    Utne:

    • Incredibly scenic with a historic hotel
    • The Hardanger Scenic Route continues on this side of the fjord

    Odda:

    • The Ullensvang Hotel is a historic hotel
    • The popular hike to Troll Tongue starts at Tyssedal
    • Folgefonna National Park

    If you are doing this as a day-trip from Bergen and back, it’s very easy to do both roads in one day.

    Anyway, here’s my overview of what you see when driving from Bergen to the Hardangerfjord.

    The Hardanger Scenic Route

    The Practical Info

    Distance from Bergen to Granvin: 127km / 79.1 miles
    Time from Bergen to Granvin: 2 hours 9 minutes (not including stops)
    Toll Cost: 100 NOK [mfn]https://www.fjellinjen.no/private/toll-calculator/[/mfn]
    Open All Year? Yes.

    Hardanger Scenic Route – Official Website (English)

    The turn-off to the Hardanger Scenic Route is located at a roundabout in Trengereid. Here’s what you can see, stop at, and experience as you head towards Granvin:

    Ådland Church

    Ådland Church is a historic church located just outside Samnanger community. A church as stood on this site since the 12th century and the first church was likely a stave church. A new church was built here in 1652 and then it was replaced in 1851 by the church you see today.

    The church is used for weddings, baptisms, confirmations and service takes place every other Sunday.

    Samnanger

    Samnanger is a small village around 20km (12 miles) from Bergen, though the drive is considerably longer thanks to the mountains. It is separated from Bergen thanks to Gullfjellet, the tallest mountain in the municipality. The village grew in the early 20th century thanks to the construction of hydroelectric power plants in the area.

    The body of water you’ll see here is the Samnangerfjord, which is 22km (14 miles) long and forms the southern boundary of the Bergen peninsula.

    Facilities:
    Grocery stores (SPAR and Kiwi Bjørkheim)
    Cafe/Kro (MIX)
    Petrol Station

    Mørkhølsfossen

    Mørkhølsfossen is a waterfall located alongside the road. There’s a place to park the car and go for a short 400m walk along the river.

    Facilities:
    Rest stop

    Fossen Bratte

    Fossen Bratte is a more well-known waterfall along the Hardanger Scenic Road. The waterfall is 80m long.

    During World War II, the valley was the scene of fighting when the Germans were making their way inland. There was a barrier position put up in the bend in the road where the waterfall throws itself out. If you walk to the top of the waterfall (there is a path), you’ll see a cannon and some signage commemorating the Norwegians who lost their lives here from this fighting.

    If you walk to the bottom of the waterfall, which again is on a path, you’ll come to another memorial. In 1951, a married couple were on their honeymoon when they drove off the road here. The waterfall is nicknamed the ‘bridal veil’ and many think it’s from that, but the nickname has been used since the early 20th century.

    This is a very popular stop and the carpark is tiny.

    Facilities:
    Restrooms
    Car parking

    Eikedalen

    Once you’re on the other side of the tunnel after Fossen Bratte, you’ll see many, many cabins on the hillside. This is the area known as Eikedalen and Kvamskogen, and it’s a popular ski area for the Bergen locals.

    Eikedalen is the name of the ski centre that is soon on your left. It has the 10th longest chairlift in Northern Europe at a length of 1800m. The highest peak is Grøtet, which is 918m above sea level. In total, Eikedalen has a total of seven ski lifts with 12 slopes.

    Kvamskogen

    Kvamskogen is the name of the mountain plateau and region. In total, there are over 1700 cabins in this area; the third-highest concentration of cabins in the country.

    Historically, this was a mountain pasture of the farmers from Steinsdalen (where Steindalsfossen is). The farmers used the area to cut grass that would then be brought home by horses in the winter. Much of the wood the farmers needed was also here.

    The road you’re on was the main road between Bergen and Eastern Norway in 1907. From the post-war period onwards, the drive was increasingly difficult due to the number of parked cars on Kvamskogen. Even though the road has been widened and carparks added, it can still sometimes take a long time to pass through here.

    The Old Highways

    Once past Kvamskogen, the road has four tunnels as you make your way down to Steinsdalen (Stein Valley or ‘Rock Valley’). These four tunnels were built in the 1950s after the old highway was becoming increasingly dangerous.

    As you drive through the tunnels, there are openings on the side that shows the old road. The old road was built between 1903 and 1907, with large sections built by hand while workers hung from ropes. The rock in the mountain is ‘junk rock’ and is slowly breaking apart, meaning, there were lots of rockslides on the road. This is why the tunnels were built.

    After the last tunnel, there is a parking area to the right. However, when I stopped there recently the rock was crumbling under the carpark and the fence was almost hanging off the side. Not the safest spot to stop.

    Steinsdalsfossen

    This is one of the most famous waterfalls in Norway. You are able to walk behind the waterfall without (mostly) getting wet. It is at its most full in May-June when the snow is melting. The drop of the waterfall is 20m.

    Facilities:
    Toilets (closed October – May)
    Souvenir shops (two of them!)
    Coffee and snacks
    Information boards

    Norheimsund

    Norheimsund is a small town with a settlement of 4,399 inhabitants. It is the shopping hub for the outer Hardanger region and has plenty of shops and facilities. Norheimsund is also a traffic hub. From here, you can take a ferry to Utne and Odda, or take a bus to Bergen, Voss, Vikøy, Tørvikbygd, Jondal, Strandebarm and Kvinnherad.

    The town centre of Norheimsund was destroyed by a fire in 1932 and has been rebuilt in a functionalist architecture, so it’s not the most beautiful place. During World War II, the occupying forces had a large training camp in Norheimsund and defence installations were built against the fjord.

    The Hardanger Maritime Centre is a foundation that restores and protects different types of boats. It’s possible to visit the area during the summer season.

    Facilities
    Hotels (Thon Hoten Sandven)
    Shopping Mall (Straumen Senter)
    Grocery stores
    Sporting goods store
    Pubs, restaurants, cafes
    ATM
    Hardanger Maritime Museum & Maritime Centre
    Emergency room
    Petrol station

    Øystese

    Øystese is a small town just 7km (4 miles) from Norheimsund. The town is on the up and up, with a brand-new Hardangerfjord Hotel and Spa built alongside the fjord.

    There’s a quirky sculpture museum here with the works of Ingebrigt Vik. The building looks like it shouldn’t be in a small Norwegian village.

    Øystese itself is known for its furniture production, especially in tables. There’s also a printing press here, dairy factories and shops. The church was built in 1868 and is a typical 19th century church.

    Facilities
    Hotels (Hardangerfjord Hotel)
    Grocery stores
    Electronics shop
    Cafes/restaurants
    Pharmacy
    Petrol station
    Art House Kabuso
    Hardanger SkySpace

    Fyksesund Bridge

    Shortly after leaving Øystese you’ll cross the Fyksesund Bridge. It is 344m long with a span of 230m. It was opened by Crown Prince Olav on 9 Octobe 1937 and at the time it was Northern Europe’s longest suspension bridge.

    The fish farm on a gorgeous spring day

    Hardanger Akvasenter

    Immediately after the bridge is the Hardanger Akvasenter, an active fish farm that you are able to visit. The main display centre/museum is in Øystese, but if you book ahead you can have a tour of the fish farm. At the fish farm you’ll learn about how salmon farming works. The fish farm is owned by Lingalaks AS, which is responsible for the fish production in the area. It’s a family owned company that today has about 2.5 million fish in their farms and employs 40 people. If you stay at the Hardangerfjord Hotel, you can taste the salmon there.

    The view from the top of the farm

    Steinstø Farm

    Steinstø Fruitfarm has been owned by the same family for nine generations. If you visit the farm, you can learn about how the farm is run and how it was run in the past. There’s a shop by the road that sells fruits and berries as well as homemade apple juice, homemade jam, jellies, lefse, apple cake and souvenirs. There’s also a small café where you can have coffee and cake. Restrooms are under the building.

    In any case, it is possible to book a visit to the farm, but it’s often reserved for groups.

    Steinstø has become very popular in recent years, so if you’re visiting in summer you may see a couple tour buses parked out the front.

    Facilities
    Cafe
    Restrooms
    Shop

    Note: Their opening hours vary quite a lot throughout the year. Check the website/Facebook page before going:

    https://www.steinsto.no/english

    Steinstø Restplace

    Steinstøberget Rest Place

    The rest area is an idyllic spot with a view over the Hardangerfjord. On a clear day, you can see the Folgefonna glacier. The area is built on two levels.

    Facilities
    Toilets
    Picnic/BBQ
    Information board

    Ålvik

    Ålvik is a small town that is known throughout Norway for its industrial site. A factory was built here at the beginning of the 20th century to take advantage of the hydroelectric power from the Bjølvo waterfalls. The factory was completed in 1919, producing calcium carbide for a time. The villages population rose from 75 to 500 following the opening of the factory. In the 1920s, the company was given major sales contracts for ferrosilicon to the British steel industry. A production line for ferrochrome was established in 1934.

    The road connection to Bergen was added in 1937.

    The plant made Ålvik the most polluted place on the Hardangerfjord and at times the whole town could be covered in smog. Government environmental regulations put pressure on the company, and ferrochrome production ended in 1979. Ferrosilicon was prioritised to comply with environmental standards and furnaces were rebuilt, making it possible to recycle excess heat.

    Stopping for photos somewhere near Ålvik. Photo taken in April.

    The factory is still the village’s main employer. It is now a subsidary of Elkem, which is owned by China National Bluestar. Today the factory recycles waste from aluminium production. The hydropower plant is now owned by Statkraft.

    The Ålvik Industrial Worker’s Museum documents the village’s labour heritage through the exposition of two restored workers apartments typical to the 1920s and 1950.

    Today Ålvik has a primary school, kindergarten, nursing home, church, library, several artists and plenty of hiking trails.

    Granvin

    You’ll drive alongside the Granvinfjord before you make it to Granvin, and this part of the drive is especially narrow! The Granvinfjord is 10km (6.2 miles) long and less than 1km wide. At the end of the fjord you can see the lumber and wood products industry, which in 2019 accounted for 80% of all industry-related employment in the area. Granvin is home to one of Norway’s few spruce forests.

    The name Granvin comes from an old farm that used to stand here. The coat-of-arms is the Hardanger Fiddle, which is representative of the folk tradition of the region.

    During World War II, there was some fighting between German and Norwegian forces here. Germans landed in Granvin on the 25th of April as part of their movement towards the military camps at Voss. Four Norwegians and at least 30 Germans fell during the fighting. The population has decreased significantly since the war. 29% of the population here commute to Voss for work.

    Granvin is an agricultural area characterised by livestock, mainly sheep. There’s a fantastic shop you should visit – Kjerland Gardsbutikk – where you can look at and buy produce from all the surrounding farms.

    Facilities:
    Rental homes
    Grocery stores
    Charging station for electric cars
    Kjerland Gardsbutikk

    The Highway Through Voss

    Here’s option two! Driving from Bergen to the Hardangerfjord through Voss is a great option ff you’re short on time or don’t want to drive on narrow roads.

    The Practical Info

    Distance from Bergen to Granvin: 129km / 80.4 miles
    Time from Bergen to Granvin: 1 hour 52 minutes (not including stops)
    Toll Cost: 72 NOK [mfn]https://www.fjellinjen.no/private/toll-calculator/[/mfn]
    Open All Year? Yes.

    The village as seen from the Hananipa hike I did a while back

    Vaksdal

    This will be the first point of interest after going through Trengereid. Vaksdal is a small community known for the Vaksdal Mill, which was established in the late 19th century using power from the nearby waterfalls. The waterfall was first utilised with mechanical transmission of power to the mill machines. Vaksdal Mill was once the largest mill plant in Northern Europe. During World War II, there was heavy fighting in Vaksdal between the 19th and 23rd of April. Three Norwegian soldiers and one civilian and a larger, but unknown, number of German soldiers fell in Vaksdal.

    Dale

    If you love knitwear, you’ll love Dale! This small village is famous for Dale of Norway, a Norwegian knitwear brand. The business was established in 1872, when industrialist Peter Jebsen (1824 – 1892, you can see his house on my Årstad walk) first established a textile factory in Dale. After World War II, the factory developed exports of its knitted sweaters. Since 1956, Dale of Norway has designed and produced official Olympic and World Championship sweaters for the Norwegian National Alpine Ski Team. They were also later chosen to design the official sweaters for the Winter Olympic Games through the IOC, with rights to use the Olympic symbols.

    It’s possible to visit the Dale of Norway factory. If you plan ahead you can take a guided tour. If you just show up, there’s a great outlet store!

    Dale has a small church, the Dale Church, which dates to 1956 and can be seen from the road.

    Facilities
    Roadside Cafe
    Petrol station (shell)
    Dale of Norway Factory Outlet and Museum
    Grocery Stores (Coop Extra, SPAR)

    Bolstadøyri

    Bolstadøyri is a historic spot on the old route between Voss and Bergen. Before the train link was built, transfer between the two was by horse and boat. This is where the boat journey started.

    Evanger

    Evanger is a traditional West Norwegian village. The village was destroyed by a fire on the 10th of April 1923 and was rebuilt exactly how we see it today. Because of this, Evanger town centre has been regulated as a special area of protection as a culturally and historically valuable building environment. Evanger Church escaped the fire and was built in 1851.

    After that, outside the courthouse is a monument to Knute Nelson, who was born here and emigrated to the United States in 1849. He became a lawyer and politician and was for many years a senator for Minnesota.

    Evanger is famous in Norway for its cured meats. There are several companies here that specialise in the production of traditional food.

    Facilities
    BnB
    Grocery store (Landhandleri)

    The Voss River

    The Voss River is a famous salmon river. When tourism was growing in the 19th century, English ‘salmon lords’ would travel here to catch some top-notch Norwegian salmon. The biggest salmon to be caught here was 32kg! In the last few decades, the salmon population has declined due to pollution, disease and other unknown factors.

    Voss

    Welcome to Voss! There’s a lot to do in Voss, and you could easily spend a night here.

    According to legend, the people of Voss were forcibly converted to Christianity by King Olav, who later became Saint Olav. There’s a stone cross located by the lake that is said to have been erected at this time.

    The Voss Church is built on the site of an old pagan temple. The church was built in 1277 under the instruction of King Magnus the Lawmender and it is one of the few buildings that survived the bombing of World War II.

    When Germany invaded Norway on the 9th of April 1940, Voss was the main point of mobilisation for the Norwegian Army in the West since Bergen had fallen. To break down the resistance, the Luftwaffe bombed Voss on the 23rd and 24th of April and then the surrounding countryside on the 25th of April. Nine people lost their lives and the bombings completely destroyed the wood-built town centre. You’ll notice Voss has a very concrete look today; it was rebuilt cheaply during and after the war.

    Voss is known far and wide for its extreme sports. You can do skiing, water sports, skydiving, paragliding and other adventure sports here. The brand-new Voss gondola opened in 2020 and it’s used for tourists or for hikers and skiers.

    Facilities
    All the facilities of a mid-size town (groceries, shopping, ATM, petrol station, cafes and restaurants, etc)
    Toilets available at the train station
    Voss Gondola
    Hotels (Fleischer’s Hotel, Park Hotel, the brand-new Scandic Hotel)
    Voss Folk Museum

    Skjervsfossen

    Around half-way between Granvin and Voss is Skjervsfossen. Take the detour road off the main highway for this incredible sight. It’s possible to park at the top and the bottom of the waterfall and well-worth it. There’s a network of paths and stairs so you can walk around the waterfall and surrounding area.

    The historic route is called ‘Skjervet’ and forms the old highway.

    Facilities
    Toilets (closed October-May)
    Picnic/BBQ
    Information board about the area

    Granvin Church

    Shortly before arriving in Granvin you’ll pass the Granvin Church, which was built in 1726 and represents a typical example of an 18th century church building. In 2012 the church was listed for preservation as a culturally and historically important example of the richness of decoration in early 18th century churches.

    Scenic Detour to Ulvik

    If you’re planning to go to Ulvik, there’s a scenic road you can take over the mountain (rather than going along the fjord). It begins in Granvin (there’s a sign for the turn-off) and you can stop at a viewpoint overlooking Ulvik on the way back down. The road also passed the apple cider route in Ulvik.

    Driving from Bergen to the Hardangerfjord

    In conclusion, I hope this article has given you some ideas about how to drive from Bergen to the Hardangerfjord. In any case, there are no losers. Both drives are incredibly scenic and have unique attractions.

    If you have any comments or suggestions please mention them below!

  • Bergen, Ulvik

    How to Get to the Fjords from Bergen

    How to Get to the Fjords from Bergen

    When visiting Bergen, you’ll see all of these flyers and ferries promoting day trips to the fjords. There are so many ways to get to the fjords from Bergen, and there are so many different place-names that are unfamiliar to visitors. I decided to write an overview of which areas are the best places if you want to take a day-trip from Bergen to get to the fjords. There are better tours than others, and there are more scenic places than others, but it depends on how much time you have, your budget, and your own personal interests. Here’s how to get to the fjords from Bergen!

    In this article...

    Bergen Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    What to consider

    How much time do you have?

    How much time do you have? From Bergen, you can either take a half-day trip or a full-day trip. The half-day trips take 3-4 hours, while the full-day trips take up to 12 hours. The more time you have, the more flexibility and chance you have to see the dramatic fjords. Half-day trips do not take you to the most dramatic places.

    What is your budget?

    Any tour from Bergen is expensive, often costing between 1000 and 2000 NOK. The half-day trips are of course cheaper, varying from 450 to 700 NOK. The more money you spend, the more you’ll see. The cheaper tours may not be worth your money as they don’t take you out to the most dramatic areas.

    Can you do it yourself?

    The ‘in a nutshell’ options are not guided and use public transport, which you can book yourself. In some cases, it works out to be cheaper.

    Do you need a guide? Possibly. It depends on your interests. I’m working on writing guides to all these places, but hiring a guide in some cases is really well worth it. You want to make sure the guide knows the areas, though. If you end up with a new guide who lives in Bergen, chances are they’ve been to the fjords just a couple times.

    The reality of seeing the fjords

    Bergen is on the coast, while the most dramatic scenery is found inland. You don’t get dramatic fjords along the coastline; instead you get rocky islands and a very flat landscape. If you want to see the most dramatic bits of nature, you have to head inland. This is when a half-day becomes a full-day.

    Spending the night

    If you get the chance, opt to spend a night in one of the small villages to break up your trip. It gives you more time to see things and enjoy the nature. Try to spend a night in places like Flåm, Balestrand, Ulvik, Eidfjord, or even Voss.

    Full day trips: The Sognefjord

    The Sognefjord is the longest fjord in Norway and the second longest in the world. You won’t have time to see the whole fjord in a day, and you don’t need to. Towards the sea, it’s quite flat and rocky (and maybe a little dull). Further inland you do get the more dramatic scenery. However, visiting the Sognefjord is perhaps best when you visit the small fjord branches off it, namely the Naeroyfjord (UNESCO World Heritage listed) and the Aurlandsfjord (where Flåm is). These are the two ‘must-see’ fjords on the Sognefjord and where most tours will take you.

    Flåm Railway

    Norway in a Nutshell

    Norway in a Nutshell (NiN) is the famous day trip that will take you to some of the most beautiful places in Western Norway. It comprises of a series of public transport routes that will take you on trains, ferries and buses past dramatic scenery. It’s a great option if you really want ‘Norway in a nutshell’, but keep in mind it’s incredibly popular in summer.

    What You Do:

    • Train from Bergen to Voss
    • Bus from Voss to Gudvangen (note – you don’t stop at Tvindefossen or Stalheim Hotel)
    • Ferry from Gudvangen – Flåm on the Naeroyfjord (the true highlight!)
    • Train from Flåm to Myrdal (the famous Flåm Railway)
    • Train from Myrdal to Bergen

    The Good Bits:

    • The Gudvangen to Flåm Ferry is incredible and is the absolute best of the best when it comes to getting a true feel for the fjords. I can’t recommend it enough
    • The Flåm Railway is incredibly famous and well worth it. You see the typical West Norwegian landscape on a 55-minute train ride!

    Things to Consider:

    • The trip takes 10-12 hours and has little time to stop and relax. You are constantly on the move, and photo-stops on the trains and buses aren’t possible.
    • Besides the Gudvangen – Flåm ferry, you don’t see fjords. You’re up in the mountains
    • Consider spending a night in Flåm to make the trip more relaxing

    Balestrand

    Sognefjord in a Nutshell

    The Sognefjord in a Nutshell is run by the same team as Norway in a Nutshell (NiN from here on in), but you take a 5.5 hour ferry cruise from Flåm to Bergen instead of taking a train back. Is the Flåm – Bergen Sognefjord cruise worth it? Maybe for the first couple hours. I find long parts of it to be a little boring, and the ferry is a little basic for such a long trip. Still, though, you see most of the Sognefjord and the coast around Bergen.

    Click here to see their website.

    What You Do:

    • Train from Bergen to Myrdal
    • Train from Myrdal to Flåm (the famous Flåm Railway)
    • Ferry cruise from Flåm – Bergen

    The Good Bits:

    • Taking the Flåm Railway, of course
    • You get some time in Flåm before the afternoon cruise
    • The Flåm to Bergen cruise often has commentary and you do pass some genuinely pretty places

    Things to Consider:

    • While it’s not that much longer than NiN, it can feel it. The train from Bergen to Myrdal is long, and the ferry is even longer.
    • Consider breaking up the trip with a night in Flåm or Balestrand

    Hopperstad Stave Church in Vik

    Day cruise to Vik

    If you want to see the fjords but feel Flåm is a little too far away or crowded, you can book a day cruise to Vik, a small village on the Sognefjord. You take the Bergen – Flåm ferry but get off in Vik, and get five hours in the village to taste cheese, have soup for lunch, and have a guided tour of the Hopperstad Stave Church, possibly the oldest of the stave churches. This is all included in your ticket.

    Click here to see their website.

    What You Do:

    • Morning ferry Bergen – Vik (same ferry that goes to Flåm)
    • Lunch in Vik followed by cheese tasting
    • Guided tour of Hopperstad Stave Church
    • Ferry back to Bergen

    The Good Bits:

    • Hopperstad Stave Church is really worth seeing!

    Things to Consider:

    • You won’t see the dramatic scenery you think of when you hear ‘fjord’. The Sognefjord is wide and the mountains in this area aren’t as steep as what you’d see towards Flåm
    • It’s the same ferry and the same views back and forth
    • You can take a train to Voss and then a bus to Vik and save time and money if you want to see the stave church.

    Round trip cruise to Flåm

    Want to see Flåm and nothing else? Take that 5.5 hour ferry from Bergen to Flåm! You get 2 hours to explore Flåm before turning around and going back.

    Honestly? Taking that 5.5 hour ferry two times in one way sounds tedious to me. If you’re thinking about doing this one, spend the night in Flåm or do NiN.

    Click here to visit their website.

    Gudvangen

    Guided bus tour to Flåm

    What You Do:

    • Drive Bergen to Voss and then to Gudvangen via Stalheim Hotel. Then you head from Gudvangen to Flåm
    • Drive Flåm – Aurland and up to the famous Stegastein Viewpoint
    • Lunch in Flåm
    • Ferry Flåm – Gudvangen (the same very scenic ferry I mentioned above)
    • Get picked up in Gudvangen and drive back to Bergen

    The Good Bits

    • Stalheim Hotel and the view from it is INCREDIBLE. And the road down from Stalheim to Gudvangen, Stalheimskleiva, is a terrifying but excellent highlight
    • Stegastein Viewpoint is incredible
    • Lunch in Flåm!
    • The ferry cruise on the fjords is included

    Things to Consider

    • There’s no Flåm Railway included
    • Almost all of the driving is inland. You see the fjords on the cruise and at Stegastein

    Full day trips: The Hardangerfjord

    The Hardangerfjord is the second-longest fjord in Norway and is often regarded as the most beautiful fjord. It’s a popular place in the summer but generally less crowded than the Flåm area, so it’s a good alternative if you want a little more peace and quiet.

    Hardangerfjord in a Nutshell

    This is the Hardanger equivalent of NiN. While I haven’t done the program, I have been to all these places, and to be honest it looks lovely and more scenic than NiN. You take a fjord cruise that isn’t as famous as the UNESCO Gudvangen-Flåm cruise, but it is still incredibly breathtaking. Also, the scenery here is a little more varied than what you get on NiN.

    Visit their website here.

    What You Do:

    • Train from Bergen to Voss
    • Bus from Voss to Eidford via Ulvik
    • Visit the famous Vøringsfossen
    • Ferry from Eidfjord to Norheimsund
    • Bus from Norheimsund to Eidfjord

    The Good Bits:

    • Vøringsfossen is incredible
    • Cruising on the Hardangerfjord

    Things to Consider:

    • Much like NiN, it’s a lot of being shuffled around with little time to stop and appreciate nature
    • Seriously consider breaking the trip up with a night in Eidfjord
    • NiN operates all year round; Hardangerfjord in a Nutshell only operates during the summer months. There is a winter version of the tour that doesn’t have the Eidfjord – Norheimsund cruise but instead you drive from Eidfjord to Odda (this is a gorgeous drive!) and then to Rosendal, where you take the ferry back to Bergen. This ferry isn’t as scenic. See below. Click here to see the winter program.

    Kvinnherad church in Rosendal

    Boat cruise Bergen to Rosendal

    If you want to see the Hardangerfjord but save some money, you can visit Rosendal with the public ferry for a day. You get 3.5 hours in Rosendal, which has a famous manor house (Barony Rosendal) and the Folgefonna Centre which is a museum about the nearby national park. Still, 3.5 hours is a lot of time and you don’t get to see the park.

    What You Do:

    • 2 hour ferry from Bergen to Rosendal
    • 3.5 hours in Rosendal
    • 2 hour ferry back to Bergen

    The Good Bits:

    • The Folgefonna Centre is a great museum about the nature of the region

    Things to Consider:

    You don’t really see the Hardangerfjord; most of the cruise is along the coast

    There isn’t so much to do in Rosendal

    Hardanger apple farms

    Guided Bus Tour to Hardanger + Lunch and Cider Tasting

    Here’s the non-public transport option. You can join a guided bus tour from Bergen to the Hardanger region and get a chance to taste some apple cider. I wouldn’t miss this chance; the region is famous for it. And I personally love it. Bring me back a bottle, please? The bus tours from Bergen have great schedules, but it’s still a lot of driving and being shuffled about.

    What You Do:

    • Drive from Bergen to Norheimsund, stopping at Steindalsfossen on the way
    • Take a ferry from Tørvikbygd to Jondal
    • Visit some apple cider farms
    • Take the ferry back to Tørvikbygd
    • Drive back to Bergen

    Shorter Fjord Tours

    If you don’t have the time or funds to take a full-day trip from Bergen, there are some wonderful half-day options available.

    Mostraumen

    Bergen - Mostraumen Cruise

    This is a very popular tour from Bergen. You go along the coast and then through the Osterfjord towards the Mostraumen Strait. Once there, you turn around and come back to Bergen. They have two departures a day in the summer and also operate in winter. The area is scenic and gives you a glimpse into the Norwegian fjords.

    Visit their website here

    Bergen - Modalen Cruise

    This is a different company than the one mentioned above, but it seems like they go to the same place. This tour promotes itself as going all the day to Modalen, a tiny village at the end of the Mofjord (where the Mostraumen Strait is). The area around Modalen was a Viking settlement area and there is a church from 1024 located in the village (though it was rebuilt in 1622)

    Visit their website here

    Bergen RIB Boat Safari

    You can book a RIB boat safari from Bergen, which would be a lot of fun. You don’t see the fjords really; you’re more zig-zagging between islands and skerries on the coast. Still, it sounds like a good tour!

    Visit their website here.

    Half-day tour to Skjerjehamn

    The half-day tour to Skjerjehamn is a nice and popular half-day trip for those with little time, but again it doesn’t take you to the steep fjords. You take a scenic cruise along the coast to Skjerjehamn harbour, where you get to spend a little under an hour walking around before taking the same cruise back to Bergen.

    Visit their website here.

    Enjoy the fjords!

    I hope my overview has been of some use to you. I know there are so many companies offering so many variations of trips to places with strange names, but hopefully this makes it a little easier for you.

    If you’ve done one of these tours, write what you thought of it in the comments. Similarly, if you know of a great tour I haven’t mentioned please write it below.

    I hope you enjoyed my guide on how to get to the fjords from Bergen!

    Bergen Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide
  • Bergen, Hikes

    Hiking Up and Down Mount Fløyen

    Hiking Up and Down Mount Fløyen

    A trip to the top of Mount Fløyen is a must for anyone visiting Bergen. It’s the most famous of the seven mountains that surrounds the city centre. From the top, you get sweeping views over Bergen, the suburbs, the fjords, and the ocean. It makes sense that it is one of the top five destinations in Norway. And who wouldn’t miss a chance to get a selfie at the top?

    The most popular thing to do in Bergen is take the funicular – Fløibanen – that goes from the city centre to the top of Mount Fløyen. But why funicular when you can walk? Walking up to the top station has so many benefits – you get to see the nature, different sides of the city, and you get this sense of accomplishment when you reach the top.

    The walk to the top of Mount Fløyen is easy, short, and one of my favourite things to do.

    Information online about walking up Mount Fløyen is scattered at best because there are so many ways to get to the top. I’ve put together this guide with the best way up and down so you can make the most of your own hike.

    If you do want to know more about the funicular, or plan on taking it one way, you can view their website here.

    In this article...

    Bergen Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    About Fløyen

    Fløyen is one of the seven mountains that surrounds Bergen. It is 400m (1300ft) high at its highest point, though the top station of the funicular is 320m (1000ft) above sea level.

    The name fløyen probably comes from a weathervane that used to be at the top. It was used to indicate the direction of the wind for sailing ships – the Norwegian word for it is fløystangen.

    The mountain used to be used for farming, but since the 19th century there has been an increased focus on using it for recreation purposes.

    About the Hike

    There are many different paths up and down Mount Fløyen. The way up and down that I’m about to describe is (in my opinion) the best for views and the best for your legs if you aren’t an experienced hiker.

    The hike up is 3km (2 mi) and takes around 1 hour – it can take as little as 45 minutes if you are quick or using it for exercise. However, I’d allow an hour if you plan on taking photos or want to set your own pace.

    The walk down is a different path so you see different views. It is roughly the same distance – 3km/2 mi – as the walk up. It is mostly on a paved road. The walk down takes about 40 minutes.

    The Hike Up

    Starting Point

    We are going to stat at the lower Fløibanen station. Behind it, you’ll see a hairpin road that leads up the hill. At the top, you’ll see a white wooden building with a tower. That’s where we are going.

    Skansen

    Skansen is a district in Bergen that was a farming area until the late 19th century. Throughout the 19th century, Bergen became increasingly overpopulated. Skansen was built up with housing to accommodate the growing population. At one point, Skansen and the neighbouring Fjellsiden were the most densely populated suburbs in Norway.

    Originally running water didn’t reach Skansen, so the Skansedammen (Skansen Lake) was built to provide water to the area. The lake was built in 1881 and was not just for running water but was also used as a water source to protect the wooden houses in the area. There used to be carp fish in the lake for fishing; in 2014 they were taken and given to the Aquarium as food for crocodiles! The lake was rebuilt at this time; and the new lake is 19.5cm deep. Under the lake is a parking garage with space for 193 cars.

    Today Skansen is characterised by its old fire station, which is the white wooding building we’ll reach at the end of the hairpin road. The fire station was built in 1903 after a large investment in fire protection. The building is inspired by 17th and 18th century Bergen architecture and is built in the typical timber style. It originally had one garage, a stable room and a workroom. The fire station closed in 1969 and today it is used as a clubhouse for the Skansens Battalion, the local buekorps group.

    Memorial

    Before you get to the staircase, you’ll pass a memorial commemorating all the members of the Skansens Battalion who fell during World War II.

    Husk at hesten trenger hvile

    The beginning of Tippetue is at the famous rest stop Husk at hesten trenger hvile (remember that a horse needs rest).

    This is where the intersection with Fjellveien is. Fjellveien is a well-known and much-loved flat walking trail that goes around the mountain. It’s a great option if you want to see a lot of the city and forest without too much hiking.

    At the rest stop you’ll find the bust of Ole Irgens, who was one of the main driving forces behind the construction of Fjellveien.

    Tippetue

    Tippetue is the name of the hiking trail. The name, which is quite strange (it’s pronounced like tip-eh-two-ah), comes from a town legend. There was a man who lived in Bergen in the second half of the 19th century. He frequently hung out at the pub not far from the starting point of the trail. The pub was known as Breistølen Farm and there was a scenic overlook point next to the pub. The man probably had outrageous behaviour when he was drunk, so the locals named him Tippetue. Originally the path was to be called Skovveien (Forest Way), but the locals always referred to it as Tippetue and the name eventually stuck. The famous scenic overlook is a little later on our walk.

    The gravel road up from the city was finished in 1908, and the path to Fløyen was finished a few years later.  UiO Information about Tippetue

    Note – the starting point of Tippetue is around 900m from the lower funicular station – our starting point. The next 1km of the path consists of a series of hairpin bends, but you are never walking on a steep path.

    Kindergarten & Trollskogen

    Shortly after the kindergarten you’ll see Trollskogen, or the troll forest. It’s about 200m from the top funicular station. Trollskogen is a play area in the forest for kids, with plenty of wooden troll statues scattered throughout the park. There are cubby houses, bridges, ropes, and anything kids can use for play. It’s understandably very popular with kids, but also with visitors who want to see real trolls!

    At the Top of Mount Fløyen

    There are three places to get food at the top of Mount Fløyen. The first is in a small, white wooden building and doubles as a souvenir shop that’s well worth checking out. The second is a new cafeteria-style building with baked goods and coffee. The third is in the largest white wooden building and is the Fløyen Folkerestaurant (click here to see their website).

    For the kids, there is a large playground that will keep them busy for hours. At the front of the playground is a troll, so be sure to get a photo with him!

    Of course, don’t miss the scenic view over Bergen. You’ll see the bay (Vågen), Bryggen, the churches, the fortress, the fjord, the island Askøy, the peninsula Nordnes, the mountains surrounding Bergen, and so much more.

    There are many hiking trails that start from the top of Mount Fløyen. You can read about them on the Fløibanen website (click here). I’ll cover them in a future article.

    The Hike Back Down

    To get to the beginning of the path down, walk around the Fløyen Folkerestaurant with the view over Bergen to your right hand side (and the restaurant on your left). You’ll pass the wooden building where the goats live – and might even see them! – before reaching a concrete path that feels like it’s sticking out of the mountain over the view.

    The path winds around an active park where you can zipline and take part in various outdoor activities. If you take a detour and walk through the forest you’ll get to Bergen’s secret cabin, TubaKuba.

    TubaKuba

    TubaKuba was designed by students from the Bergen School of Architecture as a way to get more children to play in the Norwegian woods. The wood has been bent to mimic the horn of a tuba (hence the name). The cabin is intended to be explored – children have an easier time fitting through the rabbit hole door than adults and can emerge on the other side to be in a small box that overlooks Bergen city centre.

    TubaKuba can be rented as a cabin for a night – groups of up to five individuals (with families being given priority) can rent TubaKuba on a nightly basis. It’s small, but very cozy with a wood stove and a lofted area with the beds. The only condition is that they accept that people may come through the rabbit hole at any point to have a look – it is first and foremost a public space.

    TubaKuba Links:

    http://www.bas.org/en/News/Tubakuba-er-apnet!

    https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/tubakuba

    https://www.bergenoghordalandturlag.no/artikler/turtips/12632-utforsk-nrmiljet-besk-tubakuba/

    The Old Ski Jump

    If you keep an eye out on your right hand-side, you’ll pass a plaque. It commemorates an old ski jump that used to be on the side of the mountain. On Midsummer 1949 an event took place here that brought well-known ski jumpers from around the country to jump off this old ski jump. If you look up the mountain behind the plaque, you can see where the old ski jump was.

    The stone reads:

    til minne om tranegutter som St. Hansaften 1949 arrangerte hopprenn i denne bakken med deltakere som Birger Ruud, Petter Hugsted og med flere av de best hopperne i Norge. Bakkerekorden har tilhørt vår alles skuespiller Rolf Berentzen.

    in memory of ‘tranegutter’ who on Midsummer 1949 arranged jumping races on this hill with participants such as Birger Ruud, Petter Hugsted and with several of the best jumpers in Norway. The record has belonged to our all-time actor Rolf Berentzen.

    Skansemyren Sports Ground

    We are now in the residential area of Skansemyren, which has a mix of houses and apartments. We’ll walk between them for a little while, giving you a nice look at some typical family homes.

    Fjellsiden

    You’re getting close to the city when you see the bunched up wooden houses of Fjellsiden. Those 19th century buildings were built to accommodate Bergen’s rapidly growing population. You see them when there’s less than 1km to go!

    Back at Tippetue!

    The path ends at the husk at hesten trenger hvile rest stop we began at. From here, cross the road and head back down the stairs to reach Skansen and the city.

    I hope you enjoyed the walk! In total, it should take 2-3 hours, depending on your pace.

    Bergen Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide
  • Bergen, Foodies Guide

    Bergen Restaurant Guide

    Bergen Restaurant Guide

    Updated June 2024

    Bergen has a huge number of restaurants with many different cuisines, and it can be a little daunting to try and figure out where to eat. If your goal is to try traditional Norwegian food, it can be tricky trying to figure out what ‘pinnekjøtt’ or ‘prinsefisk’ is.

    I’m not a huge fan of reviewing restaurants, firstly because it is completely subjective and secondly it’s because there are already plenty of reviews online. When I started building “The Hidden North”, I didn’t want to tell people what’s good or bad; I wanted to put together a travel guide so people could make up their own mind.

    So, for this restaurant guide I’ve categorised restaurants by cuisine – whether you be looking for traditional Norwegian food, Japanese, vegetarian, cheap eats, etc. I’ve also included my experiences at the restaurant. This list is forever growing, so it’s best to bookmark it and check just before you come.

    For convenience, I’ve only included restaurants in the inner city centre.

    In this article...

    Bergen Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Norwegian Food

    Norwegian food is a surprisingly big term; it means seafood, locally sourced food, food from the farms, and traditional food.

    What to try in Bergen:

    In Bergen, persetorsk is unique and local. You can find it in Bryggen Tracteursted, Bryggeloftet (winter season), Cornelius (seasonal), and Fjellskål. The tourist office has a good overview of persetork (click here). 

    Bergen Fish Soup is a must. it is creamy, chowder-like soup. My favourite fish soup is at Bryggeloftet, though Fish Me also does a good fish soup. Click here to learn more about Bergen Fish Soup. 

    Bare

    Tasting Menu / 1450 NOK pp ($)
    Torgallmenningen 2

    Links

    Bare is located within the Bergen Børs Hotel and received a Michelin Star in 2020 for its use of organise local produce. The menu changes according to the season, and you can view the current menu online. It’s typically a mix of seafood and meat dishes from Western Norway. Reservations are necessary.

    Bark

    $$$
    Torgallmenningen 2

    Links

    Bark is a brand-new restaurant and wine bar that takes its inspiration from modern Nordic cooking. It’s a little out of the way, but is well worth the walk!

    Bjerck

    Lunch $$ / Dinner $$$
    Torgallmenningen 1A

    Links

    Bjerck is a new restaurant in Bergen with a mostly Norwegian menu, though there are some international dishes as well. They have an international lunch menu (chicken salad, summer salad, fish and chips, shrimps, burgers) and a more Norwegian dinner menu (prinsefisk, chicken breast, entrecote, burgers). 

    Bryggeloftet & Stuene

    $$ (Mains 275-380 NOK)
    Bryggen 11

    Links

    Whenever someone visits me in Bergen, this is where I take them. It has a good overview of traditional Norwegian food, and that makes it a safe bet for anyone looking to discover Norwegian flavours. Menu includes Bergen fish soup, scallops, kveite, mountain trout, wolffish, bacalao, beef, reindeer, lamb, and deer. The menu is seasonal, so it does change. There’s a vegan bacalao and vegan burger as well. 

    Bryggen Tracteursted

    Tapas $$ / Mains $$$
    Bryggestredet

    Links

    Bryggen Tracteursted is located inside the old schøtstuene, or kitchen and assembly room, for the Hanseatics, so you get an authentic 18th century experience here. The menu is traditional Norwegian. The tapas include an extensive list of Norwegian seafood (halibut, sardines, salmon, etc) and meat (lamb, whale, reindeer, etc). The a la carte menu has prinsefisk, plukkfisk, fried trout, reindeer and beef

    Cornelius

    Tasting Menu / 1145 NOK pp (includes boat transfer) ($$$)
    Vestrepollsveien 109

    Links

    Cornelius is a full seafood experience. You take a boat from near Bryggen at 6pm, ride 25 minutes to the restaurant, and then take the boat back at 10:30pm. When there, you get a set five-course menu. This restaurant is quite popular with visitors, and I can see why! The menu is inspired by the weather of that particular day, and the items change daily depending on the raw materials. It usually consists of shellfish for an appetiser, fish for the main course, and then a dessert. 

    Enhjørningen

    A la carte $$$ (350+ NOK for a main course)
    Enhjørningsgården 29

    Links

    Enhjørningen (The Unicorn) is a seafood restaurant located on Bredsgården, the most authentic alley left at Bryggen. You can sit in the old Hanseatic buildings and eat traditional Norwegian seafood! Items include whale, clipfish, fish soup, mussels, reindeer steak, bacalao, and then Norwegian cheeses for dessert.

    Fjellskål

    A la carte $$ (you can pay 100 NOK or 1500 NOK for a meal here!)
    Strandkaien 3
    Vegan Menu

    Links

    Fjellskål is located in the Bergen Fish Market (under the tourist information centre), and it has a great range of different types of seafood and meat dishes at varying prices, so it really is for everyone. The seafood is picked fresh from the market, so you can’t go wrong here. Just some of the items are fish soup, 4 types of caviar, various types of sashimi, shrimp, crab (various types), oysters, various types of fish including salmon and cod, whale, fish and chips, pasta, burgers. Vegan menu has the beyond burger and vegan pasta.

    Lysverket

    1, 2, 3 courses ($$$)
    Rasmus Meyers Alle 9 (entry through KODE 4)

    Links

    Lysverket was shortlisted on the Michelin Guide in 2020, and it is a restaurant I’ve heard often amongst visitors. It’s located near the art galleries on Byparken. The set menu includes scallops, turbot, cow, and dessert. Sturgeon caviar and Norwegian cheeses can be added to the menu. 

    Pingvinen

    $
    Vaskerelven 14

    Links

    Pingvinen is a local restaurant/pub known for its traditional meals and very laid back setting. Meals include meatballs, fish, stew, and four other dishes that change daily. If you visit around christmas, they serve traditional Christmas dishes. On Thursdays they serve raspeballer. 

    Restaurant Opus 16

    $-$$$ (245-495 NOK for mains)
    Vågsallmenningen 16

    Links

    Restaurant Opus 16 is located within the Opus XVI hotel, practically across the street from the fish market. Mains include cod, lamb, halibut, mussels and langoustines. This restaurant also a very popular afternoon tea on Saturdays from 12pm – 5pm.

    Restaurant 1877

    Tasting Menu / 725-845 NOK pp ($$$)
    Located inside the old meat market at Vetrlidsallmenningen 2

    Links

    Restaurant 1877 is located inside the old meat market near Bryggen (the triangular-roofed brick building). The menu is seasonal and locally sourced and typically includes seafood, meat, and dessert. 

    Frescohallen

    $$$
    Located inside the old stock exchange

    Links

    Frescohallen is located in the beautiful historic stock exchange. The restaurant serves various seafood dishes but is also known for its cocktail menu. 

    To Kokker

    Four, five, six course menu ($$$)
    Enhjørningsgården 29

    Links

    To Kokker is owned by the same group as Enhjørningen, so the menus are a little similar. The big difference is that To Kokker (the two chefs in English) is a set menu, whereas Enhjørningen is a la carte. Items on the menu include kveite, deer steak, and whale. 

    26 North

    Boards from the Fjords $ / Mains $-$$
    Bryggen 47

    Links

    Located at the Radisson Blu Hotel on Bryggen, 26 North focuses on Nordic food traditions. They have ‘Boards from the Fjords’, which is an overview of different seasonal flavours from the nearby fjords. At the time of writing, this includes moose sliders, Nordic taco (with lefse), Arctic reindeer tartar or a mixing board. Mains include a burger, lamb, venison, steak, cod, Nordic pasta, and the catch of the day. 

    Japanese

    Japanese is very popular in Bergen, probably because of the fresh seafood we can take advantage of. A well-known fun fact is that the Norwegian invented salmon sushi, so why not try some here? Every time my husband and I plan to go out to dinner, he always insists on Japanese as the sushi tastes so fresh!

    Nama Japanese Fusion

    Tasting menu ($) or a la carte ($$)
    Lodin Lepps gate 2B

    Links

    Nama was the first sushi restaurant to open up in Bergen, and the restaurant mixes Japanese recipes with local ingredients. Tasting menus are available, you can opt for the a la carte menu. Items include Wagyu steak, tempura, lobster, miso soup, tuna tartar, sea bass, black cod, chicken, king crab cake, monkfish, and an extensive sushi bar. The restaurant even has a sushi course! Takeaway is also available (see website for details). 

    Sumo

    $$
    Neumanns Gate 25

    Links

    Sumo is our go-to sushi restaurant. The menu is Asian fusion and the sushi list is extensive and fresh. There are plenty of small dishes as well as poke bowls. Mains include red curry, pad thai, sticky pork, ushi burger, Chicken satay, bao buns, dirty maki, and so much more. It’s not just Japanese food but a huge mix of different types of Asian food, but we come here for the sushi. 

    Pubs

    Not everyone wants a fine dining experience; some of us just want to have a good, safe, tasty and filling pub meal in a really laid-back setting. I hear you – I always try to get to a pub when I travel somewhere. Here are some of Bergen’s pubs. 

    Bryggeriet Restaurant and Microbrewery

    $ – $$
    Torget 2 (the large white building on the fish market square)

    Links

    Located just off the fish market, Bryggeriet is a popular gastropub with the locals. The menu focuses on seafood and meat dishes that are Norwegian-inspired, and there’s an excellent selection of beer from the microbrewery. They’ve got burgers, fish and chips, cod, mussels, beef tenderloin, chicken breast, pork, quinoa salad and stuffed eggplant. The microbrewery was the first to be established in Bergen and is 135 years old. 

    Madam Felle

    $
    Vegetarian Menu

    Links

    Located on Bryggen, Madam Felle is one of the spots where you see everyone sitting outside having a beer on a warm summer day. The menu includes snacks (nachos, anyone?), caesar salad (veggie and chicken), various sandwiches (smoked salmon, shrimp, blt, chicken curry, steak), quesadillas, hamburgers, ribs, steak, and scampi. check the website for their regular concerts. 

    Italian

    Norwegians love Italian food – after all, we are the largest eaters of pizza per capita in the world! That’s mostly frozen pizza, but until someone opens a frozen pizza restaurant you’ll have to opt for some fresh pizza. I have heard from some Italians that the Italian restaurants in Bergen are better than they are in Italy, so don’t shy away from trying Italian food in Norway. 

    Olivia

    $ – $$
    Torget 3 (in the big white building on the fish market square)

    Links

    Olivia is a really popular Italian restaurant chain throughout Norway, and this is Bergen’s Olivia right here on the fish market. This Olivia is inspired by Sicilian food, and the menu includes a large list of pizzas, pastas, steak, salmon, etc. 

    Villani

    $$
    Skostredet 9A

    Links

    Villani is my favourite restaurant! The pizzas here are divine. The chefs and ingredients come from Italy, and the wine menu is one of the best in the country. If pizza isn’t your thing, they have wonderful pasta and salad dishes too. 

    Villa Blanca

    $$
    Nedre Korskirkeallmenningen 1A

    Links

    Villa Blanca is a popular pizza restaurant amongst the locals (I hear about it a lot!). The menu includes a huge list of pizzas, as well as some meaty mains. 

    International Cuisine

    Norway didn’t really experience international cuisine until quite recently (the first wave of immigrants occurred in the 1970s) and since then international restaurants have popped up all across the country. Bergen is not lacking in a range of different cuisines. If you are budget conscious, the international restaurants are typically cheaper than the Norwegian restaurants, and the food is just as good. Here are some of them below!

    Brasilia

    Brasilia Experience 460 NOK / Veggie 290 NOK
    Olav Kyrres Gate 39

    Links

    Brasilia is a Brazilian restaurant with buffets (meat or vegetarian), and there is an extensive list of cocktails and other types of drinks. You choose your side dishes from the buffet, and then they serve you 12(!) types of meats. Brasilia is popular with the locals!

    Horn of Africa

    $ (Mains 199 NOK)
    Strandgaten 212
    Vegetarian Menu

    Links

    Horn of Africa is an African restaurant with a focus on Ethiopian cuisine. Meals include shiro (ground chickpeas), tibs chilli, beef stew, chicken stew, shreds of lamb, or you can opt for a selection of four different meat or vegetarian dishes for 459 NOK for two people. It’s one of the top rated restaurants in Bergen (no. 3 on TripAdvisor), so it’s certainly worth a go!

    Røyk

    $$
    Vaskerelven 6

    Links

    Røyk is inspired by American BBQ and has a huge selection of different meats, burgers, and beer. 

    Small eats

    This list is comprised of cafes and eateries that are smaller in size and quicker than restaurants. They are perfect if you are budget conscious, don’t want to spend a night out at a restaurant, or are looking for lunch somewhere quick. 

    Daily Pot

    $-$$
    Vaskerelven 21
    Vegan Menu
    Note: Lunch only (closes 6pm)

    Links

    Daily Pot is a healthy cafe with a wide selection of vegan options, as well as a couple meat options. They have a list of soups, sandwiches, ‘power bowls’ and cakes. 

    Trekroneren

    $
    Kong Oscars gate 1

    Links

    Trekroneren has become the most iconic place in Bergen for a meal. The only option? Hot dogs! The hot dog stand has been here since 1946 and is regarded as one of the best places to eat in Bergen. 

    Søstrene Hagelin

    $
    Strandgaten 3

    Links

    Søstrene Hagelin is a traditional seafood place that is popular amongst locals. Here you can get takeaway fish cakes or Bergen fish soup. 

    Bergen Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide