Emma

Hey! My name is Emma. I'm from Australia but have lived in Bergen, Norway, for the last eight years. I work as a local guide and tour leader for all over Northern Europe. The Hidden North is an online travel guide I have made to help you plan your own visit here.

  • Hammerfest, History, Tromsø, Vardø

    A Brief History of the Pomor Trade

    A Brief History of the Pomor Trade

    When you visit Northern Norway, chances are you’ll come across something called the Pomor Trade. When I first started visiting Finnmark, I would typically disregard any mention of the Pomors as a small part of history here that had little importance. However, after visiting Vardø back in September 2023, I came to realise just how vital the Pomors had been to the development of Northern Norway.

    I’ve put together this article as a short historic overview of the Pomors. Perhaps it’ll benefit your own trip to Northern Norway!

    In this article...

    VARDØ Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    What is a Pomor?

    This took me way too long to figure out. A “Pomor” is actually an ethnographic group that come from Russian settlers from around the region of Novgorod. They came to the White Sea region hundreds of years ago, following the various river systems through Russia. The word ‘Pomor’ derives from the word ‘Pomorsky’ (which means ‘maritime’) and is a word used to describe the coast of the White Sea. 

    Historic Trade Between Russia and Norway & Development of the Pomor Trade

    The people of Norway and Russia have been trading for hundreds of years. In fact, it can be traced back to the Viking Age. The Russians were known to also trade with the Sami people. 

    Trade between Russians and the Norwegians began to come into its modern form when the trade monopoly in Bergen was legalised. Basically, the King said that all foreign merchants had to go to Bergen, and all fishermen had to sell their catch in Bergen. 

    However, for the fishermen this was tough. In the colder months it was no problem as the fish could stay preserved for the long journey, but for a few weeks over the summer the temperatures were too warm and the fish risked going bad.

    The Pomors found a way to exploit this – they could buy the fish directly from the fishermen (back then it was common to go through a middleman, which also drove up prices). It benefitted the fishermen, too – they could sell direct, the fish wouldn’t go bad, and they were able to get supplies from the Pomors without having to all the way to Bergen. Was it a little illegal? Sure. But back then Northern Norway didn’t have much law enforcement, so they were able to get away with it. 

    The beginning of the Pomor Trade and important trade connections

    The beginning of the Pomor Trade is generally regarded to be in the early 18th century, simply because trade began to become more organised. 

    At first, the trade was a barter trade between people in the area, who traded grain products from Russia with fish products from Norway. However, money began to be used in the early 18th century, and in some places in Northern Norway the ruble was used as a currency. Trading with the Pomors also originally had no taxes or customs fees. 

    The trade always involved the Pomors coming to Norway; the Norwegians rarely travelled to Russia. The Pomors would bring wheats and grains, but starting in the 18th century they began bringing rye flour, which was important for the Norwegians and another reason the Pomor trade officially began around that time. The grain was grown inland around the Volga River and then transported along the White Sea. 

    The trade of grain was vital for the Norwegians as it doesn’t grow along the coast. Also, in Norway in the 18th century there were several crop failures and the price of rye in Bergen increased fivefold. For the fishermen, having the Pomors come directly to them and selling the grains and flour at good prices was essential for survival. 

    In addition to rye and wheat flour, the Pomors carried other food, such as oatmeal, salt, peas, meat and dairy products. Other useful merchandise was also carried, such as iron, timber, tar, birch bark, candles, cooking pots, hemp, rope and canvas. They also brought luxury products, such as candy, soap, porcelain and wood carvings.

    From the Norwegians they would take fish of various sorts, mainly Atlantic cod and dry saithe, but also Atlantic halibut and haddock.

    Where did they trade?

    The main centre of the Pomor Trade in Norway was Vardø, which is located close to the Russian border. The harbour in Vardø could at times have over 100 Russian vessels moored simultaneously, and the town had a Russian consulate. 

    Other towns that were important for the Pomors include Hamningberg (a now abandoned fishing village) and Hammerfest, though the Pomors did trade in other places like Vadsø and Kjøllefjord. Tromsø gained trading privileges a few years later and was given the monopoly for trading with the Pomors in the region of Troms. Eventually the Pomors were trading as far south as the Lofoten Islands. 

    In Russia, the city of Arkangelsk was the centre of Pomor Trade, and it was founded in 1584 as a trade centre for the White Sea. 

    Arkangelsk 1896

    Attempts at Regulation

    As the Pomor Trade grew somewhat illegally, when Norwegian sovereignty was enforced over Northern Norway, there began to be attempts to control the Pomor Trade. 

    Already back in 1316 the King of the time, King Håkon V, prevented foreigners from trading in Northern Norway. All foreign ships had to stop in Bergen. 

    Until the Reformation in 1537, the trade between the North and the Hanseatic League in Bergen was controlled by the archbishop in Trondheim. After the Reformation, the privileges of trade were handed from the church to the citizens of Bergen and Trondheim, giving them a monopoly. 

    There are reports of Russians trading illegally from the 17th century onwards. If the Russians and Norwegians were caught trading outside of Bergen, the Norwegians would be denied winter supplies from Norwegian traders. This lasted until 1715. 

    In the late 18th century, trade was placed under control of the King and trading houses of Copenhagen. In 1783 the government in Copenhagen decided that the Pomor Trade should be somewhat legalised, and that North Norwegians should get their grain from the Russians rather than Denmark. The Danish King Christian VII gave Vardø, Hammerfest and Tromsø status of trading towns in order to regulate the Pomor trade better. 

    However, there was one thing in the way. The fact that the Pomors could trade freely with the fishermen was bad for the government, who were missing out on their precious taxes. So, it was made illegal. Eventually it was made legal again, but the Pomors could only trade directly with fishermen in the short weeks where the warm climate makes it difficult to preserve fish. 

    Napoleonic Wars

    The Pomor Trade was targeted by the British during the Napoleonic Wars. During the Gunboat War, the United Kingdom put a trade embargo on Denmark-Norway. This made the Pomor Trade almost essential for survival for the North Norwegians, and they got a special decree legalising direct trade between the Pomors and fishermen in 1809. 

    During the Anglo-Russian War, the British government established a blockade along the Norwegian coast. One of their goals was to stop the Pomor Trade and cut off supply lines of goods from Arkangelsk. The Norwegians responded by fortifying the important harbours, such as Hammerfest. In 1810, the Norwegians established a special naval squadron called “The Finnmark Squadron” to protect the Pomor Trade.

    However, despite all this the British did manage to bomb and heavily damage Hammerfest. 

    The Golden Age and Rapid End

    Throughout the 19th century the conditions in Norway began to improve and the dependence on grain from Russia began to decline. Eventually the trade privileges and rules were lifted in 1870, and the Pomors were more or less free to come as they please. These lighter regulations led to the Pomors modernising their vessels and by 1870, 400 Russian Pomor vessels visited Tromsø. Normally 300 vessels would visit all of Norway in one year. By 1900, Russia was Norway’s fourth most important trade partner, and rye flour remained the most important commodity. After 1910, less flour was traded, and the Russians paid for the fish with money instead. 

    Things sounded like they were going well, but everything ended abruptly in 1917, when the Russian Revolution ended all trade. This had understandable negative effects on the economy of Northern Norway, especially for the coastal communities as the fishermen no longer had the possibility to see their summer catch. Some Russian vessels still did come. The last vessel came in 1929, when Joseph Stalin’s collectivization came into full effect, ending private property rights and persecuting merchants. 

    Lasting impact of the Pomors

    It’s important to not understate the lasting effect the Pomor Trade had on the coastal communities in Northern Norway. Many of the villages along the Finnmark coast developed in the 19th century thanks to the Pomor Trade, and were able to afford luxuries they otherwise wouldn’t get. It also led to a good relationship between the two countries, and in 1875 there was even a regular steamship service between Arkangelsk and Vardø. This allowed for Russian tourism and seasonal workers in Finnmark. 

    Often the same Pomor vessels would visit the same place year after year, and the Norwegians got to know the crew. The Russians and the trade with them had high esteem in Northern Norway and they were known for being friendly. The people of Northern Norway also got an insight into a difficult culture and it in turn affected Norwegian culture. 

    Lastly, and also perhaps most interesting, a pidgin language developed between the Pomors and the North Norwegians called Russenorsk. Russenorsk has a restricted grammar mostly related to Arctic fishing and trading. You can find some examples of Russenorsk on Wikipedia: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Russenorsk

    Where to go from here

    If you want to learn more about the Pomor Trade, visit the city of Vardø, which is home to the Pomor Museum. The city also has wooden warehouses still standing from the Pomor time. You can read about Vardø on our travel guide page. 

    VARDØ Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Please leave any questions or comments below!

  • Vardø, Walking Guides

    Explore Vardø on a Self-Guided Walking Tour

    Norway's Easternmost City: Vardø Self-Guided Walking Tour

    Welcome to our Vardø self-guided walking tour! Located in the far north-eastern part of Norway, Vardø is a fascinating but harsh little city. Situated on an island just off the mainland, the city is often exposed to bad weather coming in from the Barents Sea. Still, there’s something charming about this community. 

    Vardø is also a historic city. There has been a settlement here for hundreds, if not thousands, of years, and the Vardøhus Fortress has a history going back to the 13th century. Vardø emerged as an important fishing harbour and trading site with the Pomors from Russia. 

    This walk is designed to give you the highlights of Vardø. The vast majority of readers will likely be arriving with the coastal ferry, so time is very limited and you probably only have time to visit the fortress. For everyone, this guide is worth following. Vardø is a small city, but there’s little information around the buildings. 

    For a historic overview of Vardø, visit our dedicated travel guide page. 

    Enjoy this Vardø self-guided walking tour!

    In this article...

    Varanger Tourist Road

    Vardø is located on the E75, also known as the Varanger Tourist Road. You can find my guide to the E76 by clicking the link below. 

    The E75 Highway
    VARDØ Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Norway's Coastal Ferry

    Vardø is a port of call of Norway’s coastal ferry. Find my guide for the coastal ferry by clicking the link below. 

    Norway's Coastal Ferry

    Downloadable Version of This Guide

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided walks on our online store. 

    Coming soon

    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the city
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos

    Vardø Self-Guided Walking Tour

    This walk begins outside Vardø Hotel. 

    Vardø Self-Guided Walk

    Nordpol Kro

    Nordpol Kro is a fitting place to start. It is Northern Norway’s oldest inn – dating back to the mid-19th century. At the turn of the 20th century, it was the only decent accommodation available in Eastern Finnmark. The building is built of Russian timber from Archangelsk, which was the hub of the Pomor Trade that Vardø also participated in. 

    The Brodtkorb family were the original innkeepers of Vardø. 

    The inn has an interesting link to Fritjof Nansen – it was the last place he stayed before he set off on the Fram 2 expedition towards the North Pole in 1889. 

    Vardø Self-Guided Walk

    Hurtigruten Pier

    Vardø is a port of call for Norway’s coastal ferry. The northbound ferry docks at around 3am, while the southbound ferry comes in around 4pm. 

    On the pier you’ll find signs advertising excursions out to the bird cliffs. This part of Finnmark is famous for its bird watching, but in order to see some of the more unique species, you need to take an excursion out to the bird cliffs. 

    Around the pier area is a lot of street art. Street art has become relatively famous in Vardø thanks to a number of highly regarded artworks.

    A lot of the artworks are from 2012, when the street artist Pøbel from Stavanger was allowed to invite 11 artists from around the world to participate in a festival where they would have free reign to paint on the abandoned buildings of Vardø. This project was done in collaboration with the North Norwegian Art Centre. The festival was known as “Komafest” as it was an attempt to breathe life back into the city. Several other street artists were invited to paint on the buildings too. On the Codfather photo above, you can see the name of the festival. 

    The text “Laks er viktig for Norge” means “Salmon is important for Norway”. 

    Vardø Self-Guided Walk
    Vardø Self-Guided Walk

    Vardøhus Fortress

    The first fortification in Vardø was built in the first half of the 14th century. Northern Norway was then in conflict with the Russian Republic of Novgorod. The facility was a square walled castle and inside the fortified area were a number of buildings. The original fortress was located on the other side of the city, however.

    In 1599, King Christian IV made a voyage to Finnmark. After a peace treaty between Russia and Sweden four years earlier, the Swedes had been given the right to demand taxes from the Sami, and soon they claimed the area of Finnmark was theirs. King Christian IV visited Vardø to asset Danish-Norwegian sovereignty over the region. When he visited the fortress, he described it as “the wretched fort and wooden church that our barber thought was a reindeer”. The fortress was subsequently rebuilt.

    The current fort was completed in 1738. Within the fortress walls there are a number of buildings from before 1825. Today it is under the command of the Norwegian Armed Forces and is open during the day. It is possible to enter for a small fee.

    During World War II, the fortress was in battle and saved the coastal radio station from being bombed. This was the last place in Norway to surrender to the Nazis before five years of occupation. The Nazis were chased out of Vardø in October 1944 when the area was liberated by the Soviets.

    Vardøhus Fortress is regarded as the northernmost fortress in the world.

    Vardø Self-Guided Walk

    Vardø Chapel

    Vardø Chapel is one of the few buildings to survive the destruction during World War II. I tis from 1908 and there is very little information about its early use. It was restored in the 1990s and is incredibly popular with weddings and baptisms.

    Vardø Self-Guided Walk

    Steilneset Memorial

    The monument here is to reflect on the tragic burning of women accused of witchcraft in Vardø. Nearly 90 victims were burned here. Vardø was one of the worst areas in Europe when it comes to the witch hunts, and this is partly to do with the Sami population but also Vardø’s location at what feels like the end of the world.

    The monument is a 100m long hall designed by the French-American artist Louise Bourgeoise and the Swiss architect Peter Zumthor. It is open 24/7 and free to enter.

    Vardø Self-Guided Walk

    When you enter, you will see banners on each side with the name of one of the victims. The text (in Norwegian) describes what they were accused of. By the door is a small booklet with English translations. 

    VARDØ Witchcraft Trials

    Tunnel to the Mainland & Butterfly Shape

    After leaving Steilneset, make your way down to the tunnel that connects the island to the mainland. The tunnel is a subsea tunnel and is 2,892 metres long and the deepest point is 88 metres below sea level. The tunnel opened in 1983.

    You will notice that Vardø is shaped like a butterfly – two islands connected by a small piece of land. You are now going to cross that piece of land onto the other island. There is a modern building on this piece of land – it is the culture house. 

    Vardø Self-Guided Walk

    Vardø Church

    Vardø Church was completed in 1958. It is the fourth church to stand in Vardø, though not necessarily in the same spot. The first church was built in 1307 and is believed to be the first church to be built in Finnmark. It was built at the same time as the fortress and stood somewhere near the current church site. It was demolished in 1711 and a new church opened three years later. However, the materials from the church were used to build houses and a new church had to be completed in 1869. This was the one destroyed by Nazis during the scorched earth policy.

    Pomor Museum in Vardø

    Pomor Buildings & Museum

    The yellow and red wooden buildings make up part of the Pomor Museum. The Pomor Trade was an important period of trade between Northern Norway and the north-western part of Russia that lasted throughout the 19th century until the Russian revolution. These are original trading houses that were able to survive the destruction of World War II. The museum is fantastic and worth visiting.

    You can find information about the museum here: https://www.varangermuseum.no/en/

    Back at Vardø Hotel

    The Pomor Museum is located close to the Vardø Hotel, where this walk began. I hope you enjoyed this walk around Vardø. 

    Varanger Tourist Road

    Vardø is located on the E75, also known as the Varanger Tourist Road. You can find my guide to the E76 by clicking the link below. 

    The E75 Highway
    VARDØ Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Norway's Coastal Ferry

    Vardø is a port of call of Norway’s coastal ferry. Find my guide for the coastal ferry by clicking the link below. 

    Norway's Coastal Ferry
  • Arendal, Drammen, European Highways, Grimstad, Kragerø, Kristiansand, Larvik, Oslo, Porsgrunn, Road-trips, Sandefjord, Scenic Drives, Tønsberg

    Drive it Yourself: Oslo to Kristiansand on the E18

    Drive it Yourself: Oslo to Kristiansand on the E18

    Drive from Oslo to Kristiansand on the E18! The E18 is a major highway running through Scandinavia. Starting over in St. Petersburg, the highway travels across Finland and via ferry to Stockholm, where it can then be followed all the way to Kristiansand. There used to be a ferry across to England, which is where the E18 continues over to Ireland, however the ferry is no longer operating. Still, it is an interesting highway to follow.

    This guide follows the stretch from Oslo to Kristiansand. Along the way, you pass a number of interesting historic port communities, and many are worth spending time in. The drive from Oslo to Kristiansand isn’t long – only 4 hours – but allow an extra day or two so you can enjoy all the stops along the way. 

    In this article...

    Download this Guide

    All of our guides can be downloaded via our online store. 

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

    View on Store
    Online Guide
    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Information about facilities along the way
    Downloadable Guide
    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the region & towns
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Facilities including supermarkets, toilets, petrol, hotels, cafes, restaurants with addresses.

    Oslo to Kristiansand on the E18

    Oslo

    This drive begins in Oslo, Norway’s capital city. You can find a detailed overview of Oslo via our dedicated travel guide page. 

    Oslo Travel Guide

    Oslo's Neighbourhoods

    Neighbourhoods

    As you drive out of Oslo you will pass the affluent neighbourhoods of Sandvika and Asker. 

    Lier Municipality

    Lier municipality is known for its agriculture, and is regularly nicknamed the strawberry municipality, or the apple and vegetable municipality. It has also been nicknamed ‘the green lung between Oslo and Drammen’. 

    Lierskogen

    Village

    This is the easternmost part of the Lier municipality. Lierskogen is an active agricultural village with the production of milk, meat and sheep farming. 

    Drammen Municipality

    Drammen municipality is the first municipality you’ll pass through. It is named after Drammen, the city and centre of the municipality.

    Drammen is located where the Drammen River flows into the fjord. The river has been important for timber trade for hundreds of years, and thanks to this Drammen developed into one of Eastern Norway’s most important maritime and trading towns. 

    During the Viking Age, the area was called Dramm, a Norse word that can mean ‘waves’. In the Norse sagas, it is written that Olav the Holy (St. Olav) hid from Knut the Mighty in the Dramm fjord. Oslo’s Saint Hallvard is also from Drammen – he was killed and sunk in the Drammensfjord in 1043. 

    Drammen

    Drammen is today the fifth largest city in Norway, with a population of 111,000. It is also one of the fasted growing urban regions in the country. Despite this rapid modern growth, Drammen does have some interesting places to visit, as well as an interesting history. Read about Drammen on our dedicated travel guide page. 

    Drammen Travel Guide

    Vestfold og Telemark County

    You now cross into Vestfold and Telemark County. The two used to be two individual counties, but in 2020 they were merged under a government restructure. However, they are planning to separate again. So, you are technically just in Vestfold County!

    Holmestrand Municipality

    The area around Holmestrand has long been connected to timber trade and the construction of sailing ships. The Dutch first came to the area to trade timber in 1550, and Holmestrand grew quickly. You can visit the historic pier in the town centre. 

    Today Holmestrand is regarded as a popular holiday destination due to its proximity to some nice beaches. The first spa was built here in 1840. 

    Holmestrand town has a population of 8,000 people. 

    Detour: Tønsberg

    Tønsberg is a short detour off the E18 but is well worth it – it is regarded as Norway’s oldest town and was founded before the year 871. It was an important centre during the Viking Age. Some sites survive from old times, and there’s a great museum in town. 

    Tønsberg Travel Guide

    Sandefjord Municipality

    Sandefjord is known for its rich Viking history and is where one of the Viking ships at the Viking Ship Museum in Oslo were found – the Gokstad Ship. However, Sandefjord also developed as an important whaling centre and now has Europe’s only museum dedicated to whaling. 

    Today Sandefjord municipality is a popular summer destination for Norwegians and there are ferries linking the municipality to Germany and Denmark. 

    Sandefjord

    Sandefjord is worth spending some time in – the museums are wonderful and the town itself is charming. Learn about Sandefjord via our dedicated travel guide below. 

    Sandefjord Travel Guide

    Larvik Municipality

    Larvik municipality has a population of around 48,000 and like the other communities we have passed through, is today known as a popular summer spot for Norwegians.

    Larvik does have an interesting history, too. Remains from the Stone Age have been found here and during the Roman Iron Age, ancient peoples erected a stone monument resembling a ship at Istrehågen, and this is today regarded as one of Norway’s greatest remains from prehistoric times. 

    Larvik was a Danish county until 1817. The rest of Norway had come under Danish rule, and four local businessmen bought the county in 1817, making it part of Norway. 

    The highway passes by the town of Larvik. 

    Porsgrunn Municipality

    Porsgrunn was first mentioned in historic documents in 1576, but has been a place long before then. The area became an important harbour town in the late 16th century, and Porsgrunn was the home of some of Norway’s most influential families. For a while, Porsgrunn was considered the cultural centre of Norway.

    The processing industry is the biggest industry in the municipality, and Yara – one of the world’s largest mineral fertiliser factories – is located here. 

    Porsgrunn

    Porsgrunn is a town with a population of 35,000 and is the outlet of the Telemark Canal, so makes for a nice place to visit. 

    Porsgrunn Travel Guide

    Kragerø

    Village

    Kragerø is a worthwhile detour  – it was referred to as ‘the pearl among coastal towns’ by Edvard Grieg, after all. At one point, it was one of Norway’s largest shipping towns. The village today is spread over both sides of the Bysundet strait and is a charming place to stop at. 

    Agder County

    Agder country stretches across the southern part of Norway. It is also commonly referred to as Sørlandet, or “the South”. 

    Agder was one of the petty kingdoms during the Viking Age, and the place is mentioned in teh Old Norse sagas. 

    Gjerstad Municipality

    The municipality of Gjerstad has been inhabited since the Stone Age, and the place was important during the Viking Age. Agriculture has been important here for centuries, and timber also provided a good income for many people.

    Risør Municipality

    Risør municipality is primarily a tourist municipality thanks to the lakes, hills and coastline. 

    In the first week of August, there is a wooden boat festival and the municipality has a growing reputation as the regional capital of arts and crafts. 

    The village of Risør has existed for a long time, and the Dutch began coming in the 16th century to trade timber. The village has a Baroque Church from 1647. 

    Sadly the whole town was destroyed by fire in 1861 and has been completely reconstructed since then. 

    You do not pass through Risør; rather, it is a short detour off the E18 highway. 

    After passing through the village of Akland, you will go through the Sørlands Portal – a tunnel marking the beginning of Southern Norway. 

    Tvedestrand Municipality

    Tvedestrand municipality is a historic municipality with the centre being the village of Tvedestrand. One of the oldest buildings in the municipality is Holt Church, which dates from the 12th century and has an ancient baptismal font.

    Tvedestrand

    Village

    Tvedestrand town is only a short detour off the E18 and is worth visiting. The town centre has white wooden houses with irregular streets built on steep hills around the harbour, making it a beautiful village. Around 2,000 buildings are more than 100 years old. It is a popular summer place for Norwegians because of the numerous islands and nice scenery. There are around 1,700 summer cottages here.

    Arendal Municipality

    Arendal municipality is a sizeable municipality with 45,000 people living here. It was mentioned for the first time as an important port in documents from 1528. 

    Arendal

    Arendal is commonly referred to as the ‘Venice of the North’ as the historic town is built on seven islets. Visit our dedicated travel guide page below. 

    Arendal Travel Guide

    Skaggerak Coast

    Coast

    Skagerakk is the strait that runs between the Jutland peninsula of Denmark and the southeast coast of Norway. It is one of the busiest shipping routes in the world because it is the passage from the North Sea to the Baltic Sea. It was historically the only entrance to the Baltic Sea, but since 1784 there has been the Eider Canal.

    Grimstad Municipality

    Grimstad municipality is centred around the coastal village of Grimstad, which has a harbour, church and museum dedicated to Henrik Ibsen. After all, Ibsen worked as an apprentice in the pharmacy before leaving the town in 1850. Ibsen’s knowledge of the people and surroundings of Grimstad can be seen in the poem Terje Vigen.

    Grimstad has been known for a long time, but it was recognised as a harbour town in 1622. By 1747, Grimstad had a sizeable sailing community and was a known place for smugglers.

    Grimstad

    Grimstad is a historic harbour town and a nice place to visit on your road-trip. Visit our dedicated road-trip page below. 

    Grimstad Travel Guide

    Lillesand Municipality

    Lillesand municipality is centred around the town of Lillesand. It is one of the more modern ports along the Skaggerak coast as it was established in 1821. However, at the time it had nine shipyards. The end of sailing ships caused huge economic difficulties for the municipality as sailing ships were inexpensive due to the use of timber, whereas steamships required steel that was expensive. Many people from Lillesand ended up emigrating to the United States.

    In Lillesand you’ll find the National Park Skjærgårdsparken, which is spread out across islands, skerries and rocks. There’s also a Maritime Museum about the history of the municipality.

    Kristiansand Municipality

    Well, Kristiansand has one of the more impressive coat-of-arms I’ve seen!

    Kristiansand was established in 1641 and is named after the Danish-Norwegian King Christian IV (who also renamed Oslo after himself to Kristiania). The city is strategically located on the Skaggerak coast and used to be an important military base as all traffic had to pass here in and out of the Baltic Sea.

    Kristiansand

    You have made it to Kristiansand, the end of the drive on the E18. Kristiansand is an interesting historic city, so be sure to head over to our dedicated travel guide page to learn more. 

    Kristiansand Travel Guide

    Write any questions or comments you have in the section below!

  • Aurland, Bergen, Flåm, Gudvangen, Myrdal, Practical Tips, Voss

    Norway in a Nutshell… in a nutshell

    Norway in a Nutshell... in a nutshell

    Anyone planning a trip to Norway will come across the term ‘Norway in a Nutshell’ at least once in their research. It is typically regarded as the number one thing to do in the country, in fact.

    When I started as a guide eight years ago, I would often have to lead groups on the Norway in a Nutshell route. Even still today as a tour leader, Norway in a Nutshell is an essential part of our tours across Norway. I can’t even count the number of times I’ve been on the Flåm Railway. I’ve done Norway in a Nutshell in all its forms, both on my own, with private tours and with larger groups. I’ve done it all throughout the year and dealt with cancellations, delays, and bad weather. Am I jaded? I don’t think so. If anyone came to visit me in Bergen, I’d probably recommend they do Norway in a Nutshell. I may just not join them!

    I often get asked about the trip. How should it be done? How does it work? I’ve read many blogs that have done it once or twice and then provide feedback based on that, and I find a lot of information online is wrong or misleading. So, I’ve put together this quick guide. It’s a no-frills, straight-to-the-point guide based on experience of having done it at least 100 times.

    Enjoy!

    In this article...

    Get the Guide!

    We have a printer-friendly guide to the popular Norway in a Nutshell trip. This guide includes information about each point of interest, including historical overview and images. 

    You can find the guide over on our store. 

    View our guide

    What is Norway in a Nutshell?

    Norway in a Nutshell is the brand name for a range of self-guided itineraries that aims to show you the best of Norwegian nature in a short amount of time, and without climbing mountains. The itineraries are organised on public transport and put together by a company called Fjord Tours. When you book one of the itineraries, they provide you with the public transport tickets in a nice little package to complete the itinerary. There’s no guide leading you around or special private chauffeur; you are riding public transport with everyone else.

    The various itineraries

    There are a number of different variations of the journey you can do. The classic trip, or the most popular one, starts and ends in Bergen. It goes like this:
    Bergen to Voss on the public train
    Voss to Gudvangen on the public bus
    Gudvangen to Flåm on the scenic fjord cruise
    Flåm to Myrdal on the Flåm Railway
    Myrdal to Bergen on the public train

    The round trip from Bergen takes around 10-12 hours depending on the day and season.

    It is also possible to start or end the trip in Oslo and do it as a day trip to Bergen. However, that is a very long day and should be broken up with a night in Flåm.

    Highlights of the Trip

    Fjord cruise Gudvangen to Flåm

    The fjord cruise

    The fjord cruise is my absolute favourite part of the journey. The ferries they use are the electric ferries that have won design prizes for how effortlessly they suit the fjord environment. The Nærøyfjord and Aurlandsfjord are spectacular, too. Be outside for as much of this journey as possible!

    Scenery on the Flåm Railway

    The Flåm Railway

    The Flåm Railway has been voted one of the most beautiful train journeys in the world. The railway climbs from sea level to 860 metres above sea level through the Flåm Railway, and the scenery is incredible. The railway makes one photostop by a waterfall, too.

    Myrdal Station

    Myrdal is not accessible by road, and the scenery here is rugged and almost above the tree line, giving an Arctic feel.

    Bergen Railway

    The Bergen Railway is Northern Europe’s highest stretch of railway and crosses mountains and plateaus.

    Note that some blogs still say that the trip includes Stalheimskleiva. It does not! The road closed during COVID and will remain closed as it is heavily damaged and no longer suitable for vehicles.

    Scenery on the Flåm Railway

    Booking the Trip

    Why book through FjordTours?

    Almost every blog will tell you that it’s cheaper to book these tickets on your own, and that’s true. It is cheaper to book the exact same route on your own. However, the extra cost of booking through FjordTours is for the ease of doing it all in the one spot. For some, that may be worth the extra cost rather than sitting down and figuring it out yourself.

    In some cases, the price difference is negligible (100-200NOK) considering the extra hassle.

    Why book through an agent or third party?

    If you want to do the standard route, book it through FjordTours. If you are looking to make a lot of customisations, then I’d recommend booking through a third party. Primarily someone who knows the area well and can help you. Someone like me!

    Our travel services

    I do not recommend booking a ‘private, customised package’ through somewhere like TripAdvisor or GetYourGuide. Those are, in most cases, a total rip off. You will still be doing the exact same route as those who booked through FjordTours. The only cases where the private packages are worth it are if they have added a ton of extra stops and features, and drive you in a nice vehicle.

    How to book it yourself

    If you want to save some money and book it yourself, here’s how to do it:
    Trains: Book the trains through vy.no
    Bus: Book the bus through skyss.no
    Ferry & Flåm Railway: Book these through norwaysbest.com

    Just note that you can’t book far in advance for the train and bus, so you have to wait until closer to the trip.

    Another advantage of doing it yourself is that you can add extra activities, such as a zipline tour, bus trip to Stegastein viewpoint, and so on. Visit the website norwaysbest.com for ideas on what to do.

    Fjord cruise Gudvangen to Flåm

    Isn't this touristy?

    Yes. This is by far the most popular thing to do in Western Norway in summer, so expect to be sharing everything with hundreds of other people. It can become chaotic in some places in the peak season.

    If you have the time, try customising the trip so you don’t travel at the busiest times (i.e. the middle of the day) and overnight in places. Once the cruise ships leave, many of the places (especially Flåm) become practically empty. An agent can also help you with this!

    If you want to avoid crowds, I would recommend doing something like Hardanger in a Nutshell instead. You don’t see the ‘famous’ spots, but the scenery is just as beautiful.

    Bergen Railway

    Navigating the journey

    Is there information along the way?

    On the ferry and Flåm Railway they do have visual or audio guides, but for the rest of the journey there is no additional information.

    How easy is it to get between each means of transport?

    Very easy! The most confusing will be in Voss when you look for the buses, but you simply have to follow signs through the station towards the buses. There are orange pillars listing each bus number and destination, so you just have to find the one heading towards Gudvangen. Everywhere else is very self-explanatory and the walk between each spot won’t take more than two minutes.

    Get the Guide!

    We have a printer-friendly guide to the popular Norway in a Nutshell trip. This guide includes information about each point of interest, including historical overview and images. 

    You can find the guide over on our store. 

    View our guide

    Should I just use a rental car?

    No. The two big highlights of the trip are the fjord cruise and the Flåm Railway, and both of those become a hassle if you are using a rental car. However, getting from Bergen to Gudvangen is nice with a rental car, though it follows the exact same route as the train. If you use a rental car, park in Gudvangen and take the fjord cruise to Flåm and then the railway as a round trip. You can then book a bus back to Gudvangen. See? It sounds strange!

    I love road-tripping in Norway – most of The Hidden North is dedicated to road-trips! – but if you want to see Norway in a Nutshell, you should do it through public transport. Use the car for other special places in the fjord region.

    Practical Information

    On board the Flåm Railway

    Services on board

    Wifi: The train from Bergen to Voss and then Myrdal to Bergen should have Wifi, but it doesn’t always work. The ferry has Wifi.

    Phone reception: You may lose phone reception for stretches of the Flåm Railway, but otherwise everywhere else has good signal.

    Toilets: Can be found on the trains and ferry. There are also restrooms in Flåm and inside the station in Myrdal.

    Food: No food on the trains for sale. The ferry does have some options, but if you have time in Flåm I recommend heading to the bakery to pick up supplies. Myrdal station is open in summer and has a few options for sale.

    Luggage transportation

    If you are travelling Bergen to Oslo, I recommend using the service Porter Service to transport your luggage from one city to another. You can take luggage on everything, but it’s such a hassle. The service is affordable and works very well!

    Visit their website here: https://porterservice.no/

    Photo stop on the Flåm Railway

    What to wear

    You will be indoors most of the day, but on the ferry and once on the Flåm Railway you can go outside to take pictures, so a good coat is recommended.

    Where should you spend the night?

    I recommend either the Fretheim Hotel in Flåm or the Stalheim Hotel.

    Flåm Railway in winter

    Does the trip run in winter?

    Yes! In fact, winter is much nicer in my opinion. Less crowds, snowy mountains. Sure, it’s cold – but you’re in the north! Just keep an eye on the schedules; everything runs less frequently in the low season. You also won’t see waterfalls in winter.

    When is the best time to go?

    I love going in May. There is still snow on the mountains, but the waterfalls are running strong from snowmelt. Flowers bloom in May and trees get their leaves. The mass crowds of tourists start coming in late May/early June. September/October is also wonderful – there’s still waterfalls, but now we have the beautiful autumn colours and less crowds.

    What if I want a guide?

    It’s important to note that it is a not a guided trip! It is a set of tickets and is more of a self-guided trip. The tickets don’t include seat reservation, but that’s not possible on almost every means of transport (except for the train between Bergen and Voss and Myrdal and Bergen). Honestly, you don’t need to spend a couple extra thousand NOK to have a guide with you. Get our self-guided booklet instead!

    Which side is best?

    Bergen to Voss: sit on the left

    Voss to Gudvangen: sit on the right

    Gudvangen to Flåm cruise: be outside!!

    Flåm Railway to Myrdal: sit on the right

    Myrdal to Bergen: sit on the left for the first half. Sit on the right for the second half.

    That's all!

    That’s everything I could think of for this guide. If you have any questions or require any additional information or help, please write in the comments below. 

    Be sure to visit our travel guide pages for all the towns mentioned in this article. 

    Bergen Travel Guide

    We think Bergen is the best city in the world! Be sure to spend a good amount of time in Bergen and enjoy everything this city has to offer. 

    Bergen Travel Guide

    Oslo Travel Guide

    Oslo is Norway’s capital and a natural place to visit on any trip here. 

    Oslo Travel Guide

    Flåm Travel Guide

    No ‘Norway in a Nutshell’ can skip over the village of Flåm!

    Flåm Travel Guide

    Get the Guide!

    We have a printer-friendly guide to the popular Norway in a Nutshell trip. This guide includes information about each point of interest, including historical overview and images. 

    You can find the guide over on our store. 

    View our guide
  • Kirkenes

    The King Oscar II Chapel in Grense Jakobselv

    The King Oscar II Chapel in Grense Jakobselv

    The King Oscar II Chapel (Kong Oscar II Kapell) has been a bucket list item for me for a while. Whenever I visit Kirkenes, I can’t help but scroll across Google Maps to this remote little chapel on the Russian border. When I did my Eastern Finnmark road-trip in 2023, I decided that was the time to make the extra trip over to the chapel. I didn’t expect that the drive would be one hour one way, or that the road would be less-than-desirable, but it was definitely worth it!

    Yes, it may seem a little strange to aim to head to this chapel, but maybe this is as close as I’ll get to Russia for a while.

    What makes this chapel so special? So many things!

    The Kong Oscar II Chapel is a unique historic site just 500 metres (1,600ft) from the Russian border. The border was laid out in 1826 and follows the deepest part of the Jakobselva River. As you drive to the chapel you’ll see Russia and the border markers: the Norwegian border posts are yellow and black, while the Russian border posts are red and green. There’s also a fence on the Norwegian side: it was erected to prevent reindeer and cattle straying across the border.

    The chapel’s location is strategic: it is a patriotic symbol that represents Norwegian religion, culture, and the border between West and East Europe. 

    Here’s my short overview of the King Oscar II Chapel. 

    In this article...

    The E6 Highway

    Kirkenes is located on the E6, Norway’s main highway. You can find my guide to the E6 by clicking the link below. 

    The E6 Highway
    Kirkenes Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Norway's Coastal Ferry

    Kirkenes is a port of call of Norway’s coastal ferry. Find my guide for the coastal ferry by clicking the link below. 

    Norway's Coastal Ferry

    Historic Overview of Grense Jakobselv

    The settlement of Grense Jakobselv

    The area was originally inhabited by the Eastern Sami (Skolt Sami) and they have lived there for hundreds, if not thousands, of years. When the national border was drawn up in 1826, the Skolt Sami were forced to choose which side of the border they wanted to live on.

    The first Norwegian person settled in the area in 1851, and more people soon followed. The village of Grense Jakobselv was established, and at its peak the population was 100 with a school, shop, customs office, post office, and church. The road to the village was completed more than 100 years later, in 1965. 

    Why was the chapel built here?

    The short answer is politics. Despite the border being laid out in 1826, there were still disagreements between the Norwegian authorities and the Russian fishermen on the national border. After several confrontations, the County Governor of Finnmark wanted to sent a naval ship to monitor the fishermen on the border. Before that could happen, the Interior Ministry sent Lieutenant Commander Georg Heyerdahl to the north to become familiar with the case. Heyerdahl did not agree with the County Governor and instead proposed they build a chapel. A Lutheran chapel would be an indisputable boundary marking. After all, on the Russian side in Boris Gleb there is a Russian Orthodox Chapel that was used as a border demarcation in 1826. 

    The parallels with the chapel in Boris Gleb are striking, and it was believed that no one would dispute the land if a Lutheran chapel was built there. So they built it, and it worked!

    In the summer of 1869 the chapel was built. It was consecrated as “a spiritual watchtower against the eastern colossus’ various faiths”. It was built in the long church style with Neo-Gothic architecture representing Western European ideals. 

    Kong Oscar II visits the chapel

    In 1873, the Swedish-Norwegian King Oscar II visited the chapel. To commemorate the visit, he bestowed the chapel with a marble slab with the inscription “King Oscar II heard the words of God here on the 4th of July 1873” in Norwegian and Northern Sami.

    World War II

    This was the first place where the Norwegians saw the Soviet liberators in October 1944. The chapel survived the war (it is built in stone, after all) but all of the church silver was stolen during the liberation of Eastenr Finnmark. 

    Later Use

    Due to its location, the chapel has been an important landmark for sailors since the beginning. In order to make it more visible from the sea, the chapel was whitewashed in 1883. The whitewash was removed in 1969.

    King Olav V visited the chapel in 1959 and 1969 and a name plate was erected for this. 

    Practical Information

    How to get here (and what to see along the way)

    The King Oscar II Chapel is only accessible by car from Kirkenes. The drive is approximately 1 hour long (60km) and the last part of the road is a dirt track. The road is open in summer but closes in winter. Individual excursions can be arranged from Kirkenes.

    The road is very remote, and you will lose phone reception for parts of the drive. The scenery is very unique, though. Along the way, you pass the site of what is believed to be the oldest rock in Norway.

    The last 10 minutes or so is where you start seeing all the signs warning you of getting too close to the Russian border, as well as the military presence in the area. It is possible to see the Russian border markers across the river and get a quick photo, but there is no designated parking spot.

    In the picture above, I pulled over very quickly. You’ll see I’m basically leaning out the car door. I was parked on the road. Across the river is the red and green border marker, which is Russia. 

    As you get closer to the chapel, you will pass two historic wooden buildings. One of the buildings is called Preststua, the Priest Cottage, and was built for the travelling clergymen. During World War II, the building was used by Norwegian, German, and Russian soldiers.

    It is possible to see old houses half buried in the sand by the river; these were shacks of fishermen who lived here during the fishing season. The stone blocks by the riverbank are remnants of German fortifications.

    Parking

    There is a free parking lot across the street from the chapel. 

    Going inside the chapel

    The chapel is open for a short period over the summer months from approximately 11am until 2pm. 

    A little further away...

    If you follow the road a little further, to it’s very end, you get a great view out to the Barents Sea. There’s a camping area here and information signs about the border region. It’s called ‘Kaia’ (the pier). 

    Links & Resources

    Visit the Varanger tourism website for information on how to organise a guided visit to King Oscar II Chapel: https://www.visitgreaterarctic.com/

    The E6 Highway

    Kirkenes is located on the E6, Norway’s main highway. You can find my guide to the E6 by clicking the link below. 

    The E6 Highway
    Kirkenes Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Norway's Coastal Ferry

    Kirkenes is a port of call of Norway’s coastal ferry. Find my guide for the coastal ferry by clicking the link below. 

    Norway's Coastal Ferry
  • History, Vardø

    The Witchcraft Trials of Vardø

    The Witchcraft Trials of Vardø

    The Vardø witch trials are regarded as some of the most brutal, intense and dramatic witch trials in Scandinavian history. It’s hard to believe a small community in the far north of Norway would see many people accused and convicted of witchcraft. In total, 150 people were executed for sorcery in Northern Norway between 1621 and 1663, before legal security and administration became better organised in 1666 (a fitting date, really). It is said that at times there were no families in Finnmark who were not affected by the witchcraft trials, either as prosecutors, witnesses, or convicts.

    In this article...

    Varanger Tourist Road

    Vardø is located on the E75, also known as the Varanger Tourist Road. You can find my guide to the E76 by clicking the link below. 

    The E75 Highway
    Vardø Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Norway's Coastal Ferry

    Vardø is a port of call of Norway’s coastal ferry. Find my guide for the coastal ferry by clicking the link below. 

    Norway's Coastal Ferry

    Perceptions of Witchcraft in Northern Europe

    The new law of sorcery and witchcraft for the union of Denmark and Norway was issued and announced in Finnmark in 1620.

    At the time, Northern Norway was a place with lacking centralised law enforcement, so the local authorities had a great deal of power. These officials were typically not Norwegian but often men from Scotland, Germany and Denmark, countries with a history of witch trials. They brought their ideas of witchcraft and sorcery to the north, and it greatly influenced life in the Arctic. In Europe, religious experts often claimed that “the evil came from the North”, the home of the Sami people. Since the Sami people were not Christian and followed a shamanistic religion, they were also often considered to be practicing witchcraft.

    The officials believed they had been placed there to correct the population according to the Protestant religion. They painted the Sami as magicians and disapproved of Norwegian women along the coast being home for months when their husbands were out fishing, suspecting them of committing adultery with demons.

    Additionally, the Dutch and other European merchants would sail between Vardøhus and Russia to trade and warned their countrymen of the dangers of Satan, and it was believed the haunts and devils flew through the wicked winds of the north. Witches could conjure up mighty whirlwinds, poor weather, fog, thunder and lightning.

    The ordeal of water is how many women would be tested if they were a witch. Basically, they would be tied up and thrown into water. If they sank, they were innocent and died. If they floated, they were a witch and were then burned at the stake.

    The Three Waves of Witchcraft Trials in Vardø

    There were three major phases of the Vardø witch trials: 1621, 1651 and 1663. Let’s break down each one and try to understand the historic significance of the witchcraft trials.

    The Witch Trials of 1621

    The witch trials of 1621 begins with a big storm in 1617 that sunk ten boats and killed forty men. The storm was completely out of nowhere and took the men by surprise. It clearly had an effect on the town.

    Kiberg

    The trial took place at Vardøhus Fortress in 1621. Mari Jørgensdatter, a woman from Kiberg, was interrogated under torture. She confessed that Satan had come to her in Christmas 1620 and asked her to follow him to her neighbour, Kirsti Sørensdatter. He asked if she would serve him, and she said yes. They went to Kristi and together the women flew to the mountain Lyderhorn in Bergen, over 1,600km away, to attend the Sabbath with the devil. On top of Lyderhorn they went to Satan’s Christmas Party with dance and drink, and then flew back to Finnmark, though Kirsti decided to take the long way home by sea. Lyderhorn is mentioned in many witchcraft trials as a place where the women would meet with the devil.

    Vardohus Fortress, where many of the witchcraft trials took place.

    Mari confessed that the witches had caused the great storm, and that they had sexual intercourse with devils while the men were at sea. Another woman being interrogated, Else Knutsdatter, confirmed that the witches had tied a fishing rope three times, spat at it and untied it, after which “the sea rose like ashes and people were killed”. Else was seen in the company of demons and was exposed to the ordeal of water.

    Kirsti Sørensdatter was confirmed by many of the women to be the leader. She was arrested when she arrived back from Bergen via ship. Kirsti was married to a wealthy merchant Anders Johanssen from Helsingør in Denmark, where it was said she learned sorcery from an old woman. Under torture, she confirmed everything. Kirsti was sentence to be burned alive at the stake on 28 April 1621.

    That was the end of the first wave of witchcraft trials.

    The Witch Trials of 1651

    This phase in witchcraft resulted in the death of 17 women by burning. It centred around women having caused – or attempted – to have caused ship wrecks by use of witchcraft.

    The Witch Trials of 1662-63

    The final phase of witchcraft trials is considered to be one of the biggest in Scandinavia. Thirty women were put on trial, accused of sorcery and making pacts with the devil. One was sentenced to a work house, two tortured to death, and eighteen were burned alive at the stake. The trial centred around the belief that the women had been partying with the Devil. To be honest, the parties with the Devil actually sound quite nice. But that’s not the point. The parties took place on a mountain called Domen, which overlooks the town of Vardø.

    The mountain Domen, seen from Vardø, where women supposedly met with the devil.

    It started with Dorthe Lauritzdatter was brought in to Vardøhus Fortress for questioning. Local man Lauritz Braas claimed that two of his servants, who had recently died, claimed to have been bewitched by her. Four witches led by Dorthe in the shape of a dove, eagle, crow and swan were to have opened their “wind-knots” over the sea to make a boat sink, but the plot failed because the crew prayed to God. Dorthe was burned at the stake.

    The next was Ingeborg Iversdatter, who confessed during an interrogation on 26 January 1663 that she and Sølve Nilsdatter had celebrated Christmas on Kiberg. They had transformed themselves into cats and crawled under a gate to meet Maren Olsdatter and Sirgi Klockare, who were incarcerated for witchcraft. They broke into a basement and drank lots of wine while Satan held a candle for them. Sølve had drunk so much that Satan had a hard time getting her on her feet and back to jail. The priest of the fortress pointed out that this must have been the reason why alcohol disappeared from the basement. Sølve later confessed to the giant witches sabbath that had taken place on the Dovrefjell mountains in southern Norway, where witches had arrived in the shapes of dogs and cats to drink and dance with Satan.

    Maren has a sad story. When she was twelve, her mother was executed for sorcery. She had been taken care by her aunt for several years before her aunt was also burned. Maren was interrogated and she claimed to have visited Hell, where she was given a tour by Satan. She later visited a sabbath on Domen, where Satan played dancing music on a red violin and gave the witches beer before following each of them home personally. The court asked her who she had seen there, and she gave the names of five women. All the women Maren mentioned were burned to death in Vardø on 20 March 1663.

    The last accused witches were brought in on 25 June 1663. Maren told the court that she had been forced to lie against other people, denouncing them for witch craft. She said that the now-exiled Anne Rhodius had forced her to do it. The court sentenced Maren for having lied and to stay for some time in the work house in Bergen. However, it is likely she didn’t do that as there is documentation that she lived in Vardø after 1663.

    The End of the Trials

    The trials ended thanks to Mandrup Pedersen Schønnebøl, who was a judge.He saw the madness of burning people alive on the basis of rumours and opposed public opinion by destroying the legal basis for burning accused witches. In 1687, a requirement for judgements in witchcraft cases to be heard at parliament before a death sentence could be carried out became law. Norway’s last known witch execution took place in 1695.

    Steilneset Memorial

    In Vardø you can visit Steilneset Memorial, which opened in 2011 to commemorate the victims of the witchcraft trials. The memorial was jointly commissioned by the town of Vardø, Finnmark County, the Varanger Museum and the Norwegian Public Roads Administration as part of the development of the National Tourist Routes in Norway. The memorial was designed by French-American artist Louise Bourgeois and Swiss architect Peter Zumthor. The long timber walkway has 91 randomly placed windows representing those executed, each one accompanied by a text explaining each person. The second building has a metal chair with perpetual flames projecting through its seat.

    The attraction is open 24-7 and is free. When you step inside, be sure to look by the door. They have booklets with English translations of all the womens testimonies.

    Recommended Reading

    The witchcraft trials of Vardø are the basis for a book called The Mercies by Kiran Millwood Hargrave. It tells the story of the trials in Vardø through the eyes of Ursa, the new wife of a Scottish witch hunter, who leaves her Bergen childhood home for the wilds of Finnmark.

    You can see the book on Amazon here: https://www.amazon.com/Mercies-Kiran-Millwood-Hargrave/dp/0316529257

    Varanger Tourist Road

    Vardø is located on the E75, also known as the Varanger Tourist Road. You can find my guide to the E76 by clicking the link below. 

    The E75 Highway
    Vardø Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Norway's Coastal Ferry

    Vardø is a port of call of Norway’s coastal ferry. Find my guide for the coastal ferry by clicking the link below. 

    Norway's Coastal Ferry
  • Helsinki, Walking Guides

    Historic Helsinki Self-Guided Walking Tour

    Historic Helsinki Self-Guided Walking Tour

    Explore Helsinki with our self-guided walking tour. Helsinki is the youngest of the Nordic capitals. It was established in 1550 by King Gustav Vasa, but didn’t see development until the early 19th century, when it was transformed into the capital under Russian rule. But this doesn’t mean that Helsinki is a boring, modern city! In fact, quite the opposite. Helsinki is a gem of architecture, from the Neo-Classical Russian style to the trendy, almost political Art Nouveau of the early 20th century.

    On this walk I focus on the historic centre of Helsinki, in particular the areas around Market Square, Senate Square, and the Esplanade. 

    Helsinki Travel Guide
    Finland Travel Guide

    In this article...

    Downloadable Version of This Guide

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided walks on our online store. 

    Historic Helsinki

    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the city
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos

    Helsinki Self-Guided Walking Tour

    This walk begins on Market Square, under the monolith with the Russian Eagle. 

    Market Square

    Market Square is the central square of Helsinki. In the summertime, there are vendors here selling Finnish food and souvenirs. In October, the annual herring market is held here. If you happen to be here on the first Friday of the month, don’t be confused if you see a lot of Old American cars – this is a long tradition at Market Square!

    The ferries to Suomenlinna leave from Market Square.

    There are a number of interesting historic buildings on Market Square, so let’s look at those before going to Uspenski Cathedral.

    Stora Enso Headquarters

    The Stora Enso headquarters is a distinctive building designed by the renowned Finnish architect Alvar Aalto and completed in 1962. The materials used included Carrara marble, granite, copper, and brass. It is commonly called ‘the sugar cube’ by locals and is something of a controversial building because many believe it clashes with the historic neo-classical architecture of Market Square. It has at times been called the ugliest building in Finland, but since 2010 it has been granted protection status.

    Stora Enso is a major Finnish company that develops and produces solutions based in wood.

    Presidential Palace

    The Presidential Palace is the official residence of Finland’s president. The building was originally constructed as a residence for a merchant, Johan Henrik Heidenstrauch. In 1837, since the building was so lavish, it was purchased to be converted into the residence for the Governor General of Finland, but instead became the official residence in Helsinki of the Emperor of Russia. The building was re-designed by Carl Ludvig Engel to give it the characteristic neo-classical look it has today. When Finland became independent and the Constitution was passed in 1919, it was converted to the Presidential Palace.

    Uspenski Cathedral

    Uspenski Cathedral feels like a fitting place to start this walk. We will come back to Market Square a little later. The cathedral was completed in 1868 and serves the Finnish-speaking Orthodox congregation. It is believed to be the largest orthodox church in Western Europe and was completed using 700,000 bricks.

    The cathedral is one of the clearest symbols of Russian history in Helsinki. 

    It is possible to visit the cathedral for free. Visit their website for up-to-date opening hours: https://www.hos.fi/en/uspenski-cathedral-main-cathedral-of-the-orthodox-parish-of-helsinki-and-the-diocese-of-helsinki/

    Main Guard Post

    This blue building is the Main Guard Post. It was built in this location in 1843. Historically it was the central guard post of the Helsinki garrison, acting as a post to guard the most important military targets. It was also where they would detain soldiers who were drinking alcohol.

    In Finland there is compulsory military service for men, and this is one of the places they can do their service. They guard from 7:45am in the morning until 10pm at night. One guard shift lasts an hour at most, or only twenty minutes in winter. They must stand absolutely still and carry assault rifles on their backs.

    The Second Customs House & Historic Harbour

    The body of water you see is where the original harbour of Helsinki was while Finland was under Swedish rule. This can therefore be regarded as one of the oldest places in the city. The red brick building is the customs and packing house from 1854. It was built to replace the original customs house, which we will see next. Today this building is a day-care.

    Aleksanterinkatu

    Aleksanterinkatu is a historic street in Helsinki. It is believed to have been here since Helsinki was founded in 1550 but got its current name in 1833 after Emperor Alexander I. Trams have run on the street since the beginning of Helsinki’s trams. This is also the official Christmas street of Finland since 1949.  

    Historic Customs House

    This yellow building tucked away is the historic customs and packing house from 1765. It is one of the few surviving buildings from the time of the Swedish rule. The reason why it is at an angle is because there was originally a plan to build a wall around Helsinki, and this building follows the curve of the wall. However, those plans were never finalised. Today the building is protected.

    Oldest Building in Central Helsinki

    The Sederholm House is a stone house from 1757, making it the oldest building in central Helsinki. It was built for a Swedish merchant. Ever since 2015 the free Helsinki City Museum has been located inside the building.  

    Senate Square

    Once Helsinki was established as the new capital of Finland, Senate Square became the main square. The buildings here are designed by Carl Ludvig Engel in the distinctive neo-classical style.

    Before this became Senate Square, this was a graveyard with a church called the Ulriika Eleonoora Church. When it was designated as the new centre of Helsinki, all the historic buildings as well as the church were torn down. The graves were not moved, so the graves from the 17th and 18th centuries are still under the square. Even in the 2000s, bones have come up in connection with construction work.

    Here is an overview of the most distinctive buildings as well as the statue of Alexander II. Stand in front of Helsinki Cathedral and face it. 

    Government Palace

    This building is to the right of Helsinki Cathedral.

    The Government Palace of Helsinki is the office building of the Council State of Finland and the reason for the name ‘Senate Square’. The Senate moved into the palace in 1822 after the building was completed. In the early years of Finland, the building was home to many important public agencies, including the Bank of Finland, Post of Finland, Customs Board and National Archives.    

    University of Helsinki

    This building is to the left of Helsinki Cathedral.

    The University building was completed in 1832. It was heavily damaged due to bombing during World War II and had to be reconstructed. 

    Helsinki Cathedral

    Helsinki Cathedral is the main Lutheran Church of Helsinki. The church was completed in 1852 in a neoclassical style with a Greek cross layout. The two white buildings on either side of the cathedral are later additions: the one to the left is a bell tower, while the one to the right is a chapel. The zinc statues of the Twelve Apostles are also a later addition.     

    Statue of Alexander II

    The statue of Emperor Alexander II was erected in 1894 to commemorate his re-establishment of the Diet of Finland in 1863. Alexander II also fought for Finnish autonomy and promoted the use of the Finnish language, amongst other things. The figures around the statue represent law, culture, and peasants. While there have been debates if the statue should be removed, it remains a symbol of the role Alexander II had in establishing Finnish statehood.   

    Sofiankatu

    Sofiankatu is a historic street in Helsinki city centre. The street has existed since the 1640s, though the buildings here are from the early 19th century under Russian rule. The cobblestone on the ground represents the two eras: the smoother cobblestone is from the Russian time, while the uneven cobblestone is from the Swedish time. Here you will also see the street sign in the three languages: Finnish, Swedish and Russian.

    Havis Amanda

    The Havis Amanda is a statue that was put on this site in 1908. The work drew strong criticism at first, especially from women who thought its nakedness and seductiveness was inappropriate. Some womens groups even called it as a ‘common French whore’ (the model was in France). The sea lions, with their tongues out, were said to represent men lusting after the woman. However, many of the Swedish elite loved the statue as it made Helsinki look more like a cultural European capital. The statue is supposed to represent Helsinki as the woman rising from the Baltic Sea, which is represented by the sea lions.

    The Esplanade

    The Esplanade is a public park and esplanade designed by architect Carl Ludvig Engel during his construction of Helsinki around 1818.

    On the eastern end of the park, where you are now, is the historic Kappeli restaurant from 1867. The stage outside the restaurant has several music performances throughout the summer months.

    Many of the historic buildings are on the right side, so I’ll focus on that side. However, it is worth while walking down the centre of the Esplanade too. You’ll see a statue of Johan Ludvig Runeberg, the national poet of Finland and other statues of prominent Finns. 

    Uschakoff House (Roberts Coffee)

    The Uschakoff House was originally built in 1815 for Jegor Uschakoff, a Russian merchant who immigrated to Finland in 1808. The building had warehouses and shops on the ground floor and apartments on the upper floor. In 1896, the building was sold to the Private Bank of Helsinki and rebuilt into the Art Nouveau style. The bank closed in 1922 and the city bought the building. The Art Nouveau Hall has been preserved inside and now it is a Roberts Coffee. Highly recommended to go in!

    Academic Bookstore

    I know this is technically a history walk, but we have to include Alvar Aalto wherever possible. On the right, towards the end of the Esplanade, is the Academic Bookstore designed by Alvar Aalto and opened in 1969. The interior of the building is lovely and worth visiting.

    Stockmann Department Store

    The beautiful brick building at the end of the street is called the Argos House. It was completed in 1897. It was originally built as a residential building and is one of the first Art Nouveau buildings to be completed in Helsinki. Stockmann department store bought the building in 1919 and has been there ever since.  

    Swedish Theatre

    You have now made it to the end of the Esplanade, where the Swedish Theatre is.

    The first theatre to be constructed on this site was completed in 1825 and was a small wooden theatre. The building was designed by, you guessed it, Carl Ludvig Engel. However, the theatre soon became cramped, so it was decided to build a new theatre out of stone. The current building was inaugurated in 1866 and was originally called the New Theatre. However, when the Finnish language theatre was established in 1872, the name was changed to Svenska Teatern, or Swedish Theatre.

    Thanks for coming!

    I hope you enjoyed this walk around the historic area of Helsinki. Be sure to visit our travel guide page to learn more about this wonderful capital! 

    Helsinki Travel Guide
    Finland Travel Guide
  • Båtsfjord, Kjøllefjord, Mehamn, Road-trips, Scenic Drives

    Drive it Yourself: Båtsfjord to Kjøllefjord

    Drive it Yourself: Båtsfjord to Kjølleford

    The drive from Båtsfjord to Kjøllefjord is perfect if you want to avoid large crowds, towns, settlements, or any trace of civilisation. Sure, there may not be many shops or villages to stop at, but what makes this drive so special is the scenery. Both the Varanger peninsula and the Nordkyn peninsula are spectacular for geology, unique landscapes, and history. Just be warned – these are some of the most difficult roads to cross in winter and will probably be closed.

    I did this drive in September 2023, which was the best time of year to go – no snow, no mass amounts of caravans, but gorgeous orange colours and the northern lights at night. 

    In this article...

    Download this Guide

    All of our guides can be downloaded via our online store. 

    Download this guide to have it as a PDF ready to go for your road-trip!

    All downloadable guides come with an interactive Google Map for easier navigation. 

    View on Store
    Online Guide
    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Information about facilities along the way
    Downloadable Guide
    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the region & towns
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Facilities including supermarkets, toilets, petrol, hotels, cafes, restaurants with addresses.
    • Interactive Google Map for easier navigation
    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    Visit Our YouTube Channel

    Båtsfjord to Kjøllefjord

    Båtsfjord

    Båtsfjord is one of Norway’s largest fishing communities and is also one of the most culturally diverse in the country. 

    Båtsfjord Travel Guide

    Båtsfjordsfjellet

    Mountains

    Now you cross the Båtsfjordfjellet mountain at 358m above sea level. 

    Berlevåg Municipality

    Berlevåg municipality is located on the northwestern part of the Varanger peninsula. Most of the settlement is concentrated around the village of Berlevåg, though Kongsfjord is the second largest settlement. The coat-of-arms represents the municipality’s dependence on the sea – the waves towards the beach. The five waves represent the five places with permanent settlement.

    Tana-Deanu Municipality

    The Sami word “Deanu” The Sami word can be translated as ‘great river’, referring to the Tana River. The population of the municipality is around 2,800, with the population currently declining.

    The coat-of-arms represents riverboats that have been used in the area for centuries. The three boats symbolise the three ethnic groups here: Sami, Kven and Norwegian, and the colours mimic the red and yellow of the Norwegian coat-of-arms.

    The most important industries are agriculture or timber. The world’s northernmost dairy is Tine in Tana Bru, and it employs around 30 people.

    The municipality is located along the lower river basin of the Tana River. Most of the inhabitants are Sami people. The river is one of Europe’s main salmon rivers, though no large-scale commercial fishing is done.

    Austertana

    Village

    Austertana is a small village located along one of the inner bays of the Tanafjord. The village is home to both the Austertana Chapel and the world’s second largest quartzite quarry. Most of the town was destroyed by Nazis at the end of World War II.

    The highest mountain on the Varanger peninsula, named Stangenestind, is 724m above sea level and is at Austertana. The northernmost point of the Scandinavian birch forest is also here. In Austertana you can find Norway’s longest sandy beach; it is 13km long.

    After Austertana you pass through a boomgate. The road to Berlevåg often closes in winter due to snowstorms, isolating the town from the rest of Norway. The daily coastal ferry (Hurtigruten and Havila) is an essential service during this time. 

    Tana Bru

    This is the main village in Deanu-Tana. Tana Bru means ‘Tana Bridge’ in English and is named after the bridge that crosses the river to the village of Skiippagurra on the other side of the river.

    Tanu Bru Travel Guide

    Rustefjelbma

    Village

    In the village of Rustefjelbma is the Tana Church. The church was consecrated in 1964 and seats 300 people. The old Tana Church was burned down by retreating Nazi forces in 1944.

    Mountain crossing

    Mountains

    You now cross the mountains next to the Tanafjord. This stretch of road can close in winter. 

    Gamvik Municipality

    Gamvik Municipality’s main centre is Mehamn, which we will visit later in this drive. Gamvik is known as one of the poorest and most undeveloped municipalities in Norway and has a declining population.

    The coat-of-arms shows fishing net sewing needles, a characteristic maritime tool used for making and mending the fishing nets used by local fishermen.

    Lebesby Municipality

    Lebesby municipality’s administrative centre is Kjøllefjord, where this drive ends. The municipality is dominated by ethnic Norwegians, whereas the areas around the Laksefjorden are predominantly Sami.

    Ifjord

    Village

    Ifjord is a small village. This is where you turn onto the Fv888 towards Kjøllefjord. 

    Bekkarfjord

    Village

    Bekkarfjord is an agricultural community with three dairy farms and Finnmark’s largest chicken farm.

    Boom gate

    Road info

    We are going to pass a boomgate now with a parking area where you have to wait for the convoy in winter. The Fv888, the highway we are on, opened in 1989 and is regarded as Norway’s most difficult highway to cross in winter because of frequent snowstorms and strong winds. It is common for the road to close in winter.

    Nordkyn Peninsula

    Peninsula

    The Nordkyn peninsula has a unique barren landscape. There’s no high peaks here, and there are large areas of ‘boulder oceans’ – expanses of broken rock virtually without soil or vegetation. The peninsula also has bustling fishing villages and lots of history. It ends at Kinnarodden, the northernmost point on mainland Europe.

    The peninsula is connected to the mainland at Hopseidet, a narrow isthmus between Eidsfjorden in the west and Hopsfjorden in the east. The isthmus is 2km wide at low tide, 500m wide at high tide, and the highest point is 2.5m above sea level. In the 17th century there were settlements here and a church. There have been many debates and discussions concerning the construction of a ship canal so boats aren’t exposed to the bad weather around the peninsula. 

    The Fv888 crosses this small isthmus. 

    Gamvik Municipality

    You cross back into Gamvik. 

    Nordkyn Junction

    Road info

    Shortly after crossing onto the peninsula you reach a junction – left to Kjøllefjord or right to Mehamn. This guide will include information on the road to Mehamn and Gamvik before ending at Kjøllefjord.

    Mehamn

    Welcome to Mehamn, the northernmost port of call on the coastal ferry and an important fishing village. 

    Mehamn Travel Guide

    Gamvik

    Village

    Gamvik is a small fishing village with a population of around 100 people. The village was historically only accessible by boat and used to be a port of call for the Hurtigruten ships. However, since the harbour was so poor, the daily Hurtigruten steamers had to anchor a little way from the shore. The Hurtigruten stopped calling here in 1990.

    Gamvik is the place in Norway with the longest road distance from Oslo at 2,040km (1,270 miles) including going through international routes.

    Gamvik Church was built in 1958 on the site of the former church that was burned down during World War II. The first church to be built in Gamvik, known as the ‘Lapp Church’, or the ‘Sami Chapel’, was consecrated in 1858. It was a missionary church.

    Gamvik has the characteristic post-war architecture that prevailed during the rebuilding process after 1945. The population was forcibly evacuated in 1944 when all the houses were burnt down and the quaysides and boats were blown up or burnt.

    In the centre of the community is the Brodtkorb fish processing wharf. The wharf was owned by the Brodtkorb traders in Vardø. The wharf closed in 1969 because of the collapse of the market for dried fish. It is now used as a museum by Gamvik museum.

    Slettnes Lighthouse

    Lighthouse

    Slettnes Lighthouse is a historic lighthouse. It is the only cast iron lighthouse in Finnmark, built by bolting together cast iron rings. The lighthouse keeper and his assistants used to live here permanently. Four families each had their own house, animals and outside toilets. It wasn’t until the first road was built in the 1970s that it was possible to work on a rotation basis.

    The lighthouse wasn’t completely destroyed during World War II. The area around the lighthouse is an area with traces of some of the oldest settlements in Finnmark along with traces of old fishing settlements.

    Between Slettnes and Gamvik is an almost in tact fort from World War Ii. The bunkers, cannon emplacements and trenches have all been preserved. At lost, 130 men were stationed at the fort.

    Slettnes is a protected nature reserve. As many as 95 different species of birds have been observed in the nature reserve and 53 of these breed every year. It is one of the most important nature reserves in Scandinavia, both as a stop-over point for migrating birds and as a breeding area.

    Continue back to Kjøllefjord.

    Kjøllefjord

    Kjøllefjord is a charming fishing village located on the north-western part of the Nordkyn peninsula. 

    Kjøllefjord Travel Guide

    Next Drive

    Varanger Tourist Road

    Follow the Varanger Tourist Road from Hamningberg to Varangerbotn via Vardø and Vadsø. 

    Varanger Tourist Road

    Previous Drive

    Berlevåg to Båtsfjord

    This road follows the “Ishavsveien” – Arctic Sea Road – from Berlevåg to Båtsfjord. 

    Berlevåg to Båtsfjord
  • Båtsfjord, Berlevåg, Road-trips, Scenic Drives

    Drive it Yourself: Berlevåg to Båtsfjord

    Drive it Yourself: Berlevåg to Båtsfjord

    The drive from Berlevåg to Båtsfjord is something special. Both ports are incredibly isolated on the Finnmark coast, but are vital fishing communities for Norway. The rugged shoreline has been shaped by bad weather from the Barents Sea, and the geology here is some of the oldest in Norway. The drive itself is short, but well worth it on any road-trip in the north. 

    Here’s my self-guided drive from Berlevåg to Båtsfjord. 

    In this article...

    Download this Guide

    All of our guides can be downloaded via our online store. 

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

    All of our guides come with Google Map links, making it easier to navigate your road-trip!

    View on Store

    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Information about facilities along the way

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the region & towns
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Facilities including supermarkets, toilets, petrol, hotels, cafes, restaurants with addresses.

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    Visit Our YouTube Channel

    Berlevåg to Båtsfjord

    Berlevåg

    Welcome to Berlevåg! Berlevåg is a small fishing community facing the Barents Sea. Berlevåg is famous around Norway for its mens choir!

    Berlevåg Travel Guide

    Kongshavn

    Cultural Heritage Site

     Kongshavn has remains of settlements dating approximately 10,000 years back, from the early Stone Age to the 190s. The older settlements are higher up, indicating where the shoreline used to be. 11 housegrounds from the late Stone Age are here, while closer to the sea are 4-5 sites of houses from the Iron Age.

    The site is not marked with signs, but there is a parking lot. 

    Kjølnes Lighthouse

    Lighthouse

    Ishavsveien

    Road

    The road is commonly called Ishavsveien and is fascinating for those interested in geology as there’s no soil or vegetation concealig the various types of rock, sediments and rock formations. Prehistoric shorelines here show how the land has risen.

    Kongsfjord

    Village

    Kongsfjord is a small fishing village with a population of around 32 people. It has been inhabited for hundreds of years and Kongsfjord is one of the few fishing settlements that wasn’t destroyed during World War II. The Kongsfjord River has special protection as a salmon river, and parts of the fjord are protected as a special landscape.

    The local shop (pictured top left) is full of charm and is a must-see when driving here. 

    Kongsfjordfjellet

    Mountains

    You now cross the Kongsfjordfjellet mountain, which is 326m (1069ft) above sea level. 

    Båtsfjordsfjellet

    Mountains

    Now you cross the Båtsfjordfjellet mountain at 358m above sea level. 

    Båtsfjord Municipality

    The landscape in Båtsfjord is geologically very old by Scandinavian standards, and to a large extent formed before the last ice ages. Ice sheets from the last ice ages lay frozen over large parts of the Varanger peninsula and thus changed the landscape to a small extent. The large block field areas are believed to be very old, before the last ice age.

    However, the ice has left behind a large number (several thousand) of distinctive ring-shaped formations, formations that are otherwise known from only a few places in the world. The area is also characterised by many long and sometimes crossing gullies, which tell a lot about the melting and movement of the ice.

    Båtsfjord

    Båtsfjord is one of Norway’s largest fishing communities and is also one of the most culturally diverse in the country. 

    Båtsfjord Travel Guide

    Next Drive

    Varanger Tourist Road

    Follow the Varanger Tourist Road from Hamningberg to Varangerbotn via Vardø and Vadsø. 

    Varanger Tourist Road

    Previous Drive

    Berlevåg to Båtsfjord

    This road follows the “Ishavsveien” – Arctic Sea Road – from Berlevåg to Båtsfjord. 

    Berlevåg to Båtsfjord
  • Berlevåg, Road-trips, Scenic Drives, Tana Bru

    Drive it Yourself: Varangerbotn to Berlevåg

    Drive it Yourself: Varangerbotn to Berlevåg

    The short drive from Varangerbotn to Berlevåg is incredible. After venturing off the E6 highway, you cross the Kongsfjordfjellet mountains, leave the tree line, and then drive alongside the Barents Sea. The last part of the drive – nicknamed the ‘Arctic Sea Road’ – is considered one of the best geological areas in Norway. 

    The road often closes in winter, so this is only a summer drive. 

    In this article...

    Download this Guide

    All of our guides can be downloaded via our online store. 

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

    All of our guides come with Google Map links, making it easier to navigate your road-trip!

    View on Store

    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Information about facilities along the way

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the region & towns
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Facilities including supermarkets, toilets, petrol, hotels, cafes, restaurants with addresses.

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    Visit Our YouTube Channel
    Visit Our YouTube Channel

    Varangerbotn to Berlevåg

    Varangerbotn

    Village

    Varangerbotn is a small village that is the administrative centre of Nesseby. The population is around 341. In Varanger you can visit the Varanger Sami Museum, a museum for the history and culture of the Sami in Varangerbotn. The museum presents the Sea Sami history, Sami prehistory, and contemporary Sami culture.

    Tana-Deanu Municipality

    The Sami word “Deanu” The Sami word can be translated as ‘great river’, referring to the Tana River. The population of the municipality is around 2,800, with the population currently declining.

    The coat-of-arms represents riverboats that have been used in the area for centuries. The three boats symbolise the three ethnic groups here: Sami, Kven and Norwegian, and the colours mimic the red and yellow of the Norwegian coat-of-arms.

    The most important industries are agriculture or timber. The world’s northernmost dairy is Tine in Tana Bru, and it employs around 30 people.

    The municipality is located along the lower river basin of the Tana River. Most of the inhabitants are Sami people. The river is one of Europe’s main salmon rivers, though no large-scale commercial fishing is done.

    Skiippagurra

    Skiippagurra has a population of around 254 residents and is a historic trading place. This is where the E6 stops following the Tana River and continues across to Kirkenes.

    Tana Bru

    This is the main village in Deanu-Tana. Tana Bru means ‘Tana Bridge’ in English and is named after the bridge that crosses the river to the village of Skiippagurra on the other side of the river.

    Tanu Bru Travel Guide

    At Tana Bru, leave the E6 and follow signs to Berlevåg. 

    Austertana

    Village

    Austertana is a small village located along one of the inner bays of the Tanafjord. The village is home to both the Austertana Chapel and the world’s second largest quartzite quarry. Most of the town was destroyed by Nazis at the end of World War II.

    The highest mountain on the Varanger peninsula, named Stangenestind, is 724m above sea level and is at Austertana. The northernmost point of the Scandinavian birch forest is also here. In Austertana you can find Norway’s longest sandy beach; it is 13km long.

    After Austertana you pass through a boomgate. The road to Berlevåg often closes in winter due to snowstorms, isolating the town from the rest of Norway. The daily coastal ferry (Hurtigruten and Havila) is an essential service during this time. 

    Kongsfjordfjellet

    Mountains

    You now cross the Kongsfjordfjellet mountain, which is 326m (1069ft) above sea level. 

    Berlevåg Municipality

    Berlevåg municipality is located on the northwestern part of the Varanger peninsula. Most of the settlement is concentrated around the village of Berlevåg, though Kongsfjord is the second largest settlement. The coat-of-arms represents the municipality’s dependence on the sea – the waves towards the beach. The five waves represent the five places with permanent settlement.

    Buetjernet

    Settlement

    Buetjernet is located just after the turn-off from the road to Båtsfjord. There is no permanent settlement here; these are all cabins. 

    Kongsfjord

    Village

    Kongsfjord is a small fishing village with a population of around 32 people. It has been inhabited for hundreds of years and Kongsfjord is one of the few fishing settlements that wasn’t destroyed during World War II. The Kongsfjord River has special protection as a salmon river, and parts of the fjord are protected as a special landscape.

    The local shop (pictured top left) is full of charm and is a must-see when driving here. 

    Ishavsveien

    Road

    The road is commonly called Ishavsveien and is fascinating for those interested in geology as there’s no soil or vegetation concealig the various types of rock, sediments and rock formations. Prehistoric shorelines here show how the land has risen.

    Kjølnes Lighthouse

    Lighthouse

    Varangerbotn is a small village that is the administrative centre of Nesseby. The population is around 341. In Varanger you can visit the Varanger Sami Museum, a museum for the history and culture of the Sami in Varangerbotn. The museum presents the Sea Sami history, Sami prehistory, and contemporary Sami culture.

    Berlevåg

    Welcome to Berlevåg! Berlevåg is a small fishing community facing the Barents Sea. Berlevåg is famous around Norway for its mens choir!

    Berlevåg Travel Guide

    Next Drive

    Berlevåg to Båtsfjord

    This road follows the “Ishavsveien” – Arctic Sea Road – from Berlevåg to Båtsfjord. 

    Berlevåg to Båtsfjord

    Previous Drive

    Varanger Tourist Road

    Follow the Varanger Tourist Road from Hamningberg to Varangerbotn via Vardø and Vadsø. 

    Varanger Tourist Road