Emma

Hey! My name is Emma. I'm from Australia but have lived in Bergen, Norway, for the last eight years. I work as a local guide and tour leader for all over Northern Europe. The Hidden North is an online travel guide I have made to help you plan your own visit here.

  • Norway in a Nutshell… in a nutshell

    Norway in a Nutshell... in a nutshell

    Anyone planning a trip to Norway will come across the term ‘Norway in a Nutshell’ at least once in their research. It is typically regarded as the number one thing to do in the country, in fact.

    When I started as a guide eight years ago, I would often have to lead groups on the Norway in a Nutshell route. Even still today as a tour leader, Norway in a Nutshell is an essential part of our tours across Norway. I can’t even count the number of times I’ve been on the Flåm Railway. I’ve done Norway in a Nutshell in all its forms, both on my own, with private tours and with larger groups. I’ve done it all throughout the year and dealt with cancellations, delays, and bad weather. Am I jaded? I don’t think so. If anyone came to visit me in Bergen, I’d probably recommend they do Norway in a Nutshell. I may just not join them!

    I often get asked about the trip. How should it be done? How does it work? I’ve read many blogs that have done it once or twice and then provide feedback based on that, and I find a lot of information online is wrong or misleading. So, I’ve put together this quick guide. It’s a no-frills, straight-to-the-point guide based on experience of having done it at least 100 times.

    Enjoy!

    In this article...

    Get the Guide!

    We have a printer-friendly guide to the popular Norway in a Nutshell trip. This guide includes information about each point of interest, including historical overview and images. 

    You can find the guide over on our store. 

    What is Norway in a Nutshell?

    Norway in a Nutshell is the brand name for a range of self-guided itineraries that aims to show you the best of Norwegian nature in a short amount of time, and without climbing mountains. The itineraries are organised on public transport and put together by a company called Fjord Tours. When you book one of the itineraries, they provide you with the public transport tickets in a nice little package to complete the itinerary. There’s no guide leading you around or special private chauffeur; you are riding public transport with everyone else.

    The various itineraries

    There are a number of different variations of the journey you can do. The classic trip, or the most popular one, starts and ends in Bergen. It goes like this:
    Bergen to Voss on the public train
    Voss to Gudvangen on the public bus
    Gudvangen to Flåm on the scenic fjord cruise
    Flåm to Myrdal on the Flåm Railway
    Myrdal to Bergen on the public train

    The round trip from Bergen takes around 10-12 hours depending on the day and season.

    It is also possible to start or end the trip in Oslo and do it as a day trip to Bergen. However, that is a very long day and should be broken up with a night in Flåm.

    Highlights of the Trip

    Fjord cruise Gudvangen to Flåm

    The fjord cruise

    The fjord cruise is my absolute favourite part of the journey. The ferries they use are the electric ferries that have won design prizes for how effortlessly they suit the fjord environment. The Nærøyfjord and Aurlandsfjord are spectacular, too. Be outside for as much of this journey as possible!

    Scenery on the Flåm Railway

    The Flåm Railway

    The Flåm Railway has been voted one of the most beautiful train journeys in the world. The railway climbs from sea level to 860 metres above sea level through the Flåm Railway, and the scenery is incredible. The railway makes one photostop by a waterfall, too.

    Myrdal Station

    Myrdal is not accessible by road, and the scenery here is rugged and almost above the tree line, giving an Arctic feel.

    Bergen Railway

    The Bergen Railway is Northern Europe’s highest stretch of railway and crosses mountains and plateaus.

    Note that some blogs still say that the trip includes Stalheimskleiva. It does not! The road closed during COVID and will remain closed as it is heavily damaged and no longer suitable for vehicles.

    Scenery on the Flåm Railway

    Booking the Trip

    Why book through FjordTours?

    Almost every blog will tell you that it’s cheaper to book these tickets on your own, and that’s true. It is cheaper to book the exact same route on your own. However, the extra cost of booking through FjordTours is for the ease of doing it all in the one spot. For some, that may be worth the extra cost rather than sitting down and figuring it out yourself.

    In some cases, the price difference is negligible (100-200NOK) considering the extra hassle.

    Why book through an agent or third party?

    If you want to do the standard route, book it through FjordTours. If you are looking to make a lot of customisations, then I’d recommend booking through a third party. Primarily someone who knows the area well and can help you. Someone like me!

    I do not recommend booking a ‘private, customised package’ through somewhere like TripAdvisor or GetYourGuide. Those are, in most cases, a total rip off. You will still be doing the exact same route as those who booked through FjordTours. The only cases where the private packages are worth it are if they have added a ton of extra stops and features, and drive you in a nice vehicle.

    How to book it yourself

    If you want to save some money and book it yourself, here’s how to do it:
    Trains: Book the trains through vy.no
    Bus: Book the bus through skyss.no
    Ferry & Flåm Railway: Book these through norwaysbest.com

    Just note that you can’t book far in advance for the train and bus, so you have to wait until closer to the trip.

    Another advantage of doing it yourself is that you can add extra activities, such as a zipline tour, bus trip to Stegastein viewpoint, and so on. Visit the website norwaysbest.com for ideas on what to do.

    Fjord cruise Gudvangen to Flåm

    Isn't this touristy?

    Yes. This is by far the most popular thing to do in Western Norway in summer, so expect to be sharing everything with hundreds of other people. It can become chaotic in some places in the peak season.

    If you have the time, try customising the trip so you don’t travel at the busiest times (i.e. the middle of the day) and overnight in places. Once the cruise ships leave, many of the places (especially Flåm) become practically empty. An agent can also help you with this!

    If you want to avoid crowds, I would recommend doing something like Hardanger in a Nutshell instead. You don’t see the ‘famous’ spots, but the scenery is just as beautiful.

    Bergen Railway

    Navigating the journey

    Is there information along the way?

    On the ferry and Flåm Railway they do have visual or audio guides, but for the rest of the journey there is no additional information.

    How easy is it to get between each means of transport?

    Very easy! The most confusing will be in Voss when you look for the buses, but you simply have to follow signs through the station towards the buses. There are orange pillars listing each bus number and destination, so you just have to find the one heading towards Gudvangen. Everywhere else is very self-explanatory and the walk between each spot won’t take more than two minutes.

    Get the Guide!

    We have a printer-friendly guide to the popular Norway in a Nutshell trip. This guide includes information about each point of interest, including historical overview and images. 

    You can find the guide over on our store. 

    Should I just use a rental car?

    No. The two big highlights of the trip are the fjord cruise and the Flåm Railway, and both of those become a hassle if you are using a rental car. However, getting from Bergen to Gudvangen is nice with a rental car, though it follows the exact same route as the train. If you use a rental car, park in Gudvangen and take the fjord cruise to Flåm and then the railway as a round trip. You can then book a bus back to Gudvangen. See? It sounds strange!

    I love road-tripping in Norway – most of The Hidden North is dedicated to road-trips! – but if you want to see Norway in a Nutshell, you should do it through public transport. Use the car for other special places in the fjord region.

    Practical Information

    On board the Flåm Railway

    Services on board

    Wifi: The train from Bergen to Voss and then Myrdal to Bergen should have Wifi, but it doesn’t always work. The ferry has Wifi.

    Phone reception: You may lose phone reception for stretches of the Flåm Railway, but otherwise everywhere else has good signal.

    Toilets: Can be found on the trains and ferry. There are also restrooms in Flåm and inside the station in Myrdal.

    Food: No food on the trains for sale. The ferry does have some options, but if you have time in Flåm I recommend heading to the bakery to pick up supplies. Myrdal station is open in summer and has a few options for sale.

    Luggage transportation

    If you are travelling Bergen to Oslo, I recommend using the service Porter Service to transport your luggage from one city to another. You can take luggage on everything, but it’s such a hassle. The service is affordable and works very well!

    Visit their website here: https://porterservice.no/

    Photo stop on the Flåm Railway

    What to wear

    You will be indoors most of the day, but on the ferry and once on the Flåm Railway you can go outside to take pictures, so a good coat is recommended.

    Where should you spend the night?

    I recommend either the Fretheim Hotel in Flåm or the Stalheim Hotel.

    Flåm Railway in winter

    Does the trip run in winter?

    Yes! In fact, winter is much nicer in my opinion. Less crowds, snowy mountains. Sure, it’s cold – but you’re in the north! Just keep an eye on the schedules; everything runs less frequently in the low season. You also won’t see waterfalls in winter.

    When is the best time to go?

    I love going in May. There is still snow on the mountains, but the waterfalls are running strong from snowmelt. Flowers bloom in May and trees get their leaves. The mass crowds of tourists start coming in late May/early June. September/October is also wonderful – there’s still waterfalls, but now we have the beautiful autumn colours and less crowds.

    What if I want a guide?

    It’s important to note that it is a not a guided trip! It is a set of tickets and is more of a self-guided trip. The tickets don’t include seat reservation, but that’s not possible on almost every means of transport (except for the train between Bergen and Voss and Myrdal and Bergen). Honestly, you don’t need to spend a couple extra thousand NOK to have a guide with you. Get our self-guided booklet instead!

    Which side is best?

    Bergen to Voss: sit on the left

    Voss to Gudvangen: sit on the right

    Gudvangen to Flåm cruise: be outside!!

    Flåm Railway to Myrdal: sit on the right

    Myrdal to Bergen: sit on the left for the first half. Sit on the right for the second half.

    That's all!

    That’s everything I could think of for this guide. If you have any questions or require any additional information or help, please write in the comments below. 

    Be sure to visit our travel guide pages for all the towns mentioned in this article. 

    Bergen Travel Guide

    We think Bergen is the best city in the world! Be sure to spend a good amount of time in Bergen and enjoy everything this city has to offer. 

    Oslo Travel Guide

    Oslo is Norway’s capital and a natural place to visit on any trip here. 

    Flåm Travel Guide

    No ‘Norway in a Nutshell’ can skip over the village of Flåm!

    Get the Guide!

    We have a printer-friendly guide to the popular Norway in a Nutshell trip. This guide includes information about each point of interest, including historical overview and images. 

    You can find the guide over on our store. 

  • The King Oscar II Chapel in Grense Jakobselv

    The King Oscar II Chapel in Grense Jakobselv

    The King Oscar II Chapel (Kong Oscar II Kapell) has been a bucket list item for me for a while. Whenever I visit Kirkenes, I can’t help but scroll across Google Maps to this remote little chapel on the Russian border. When I did my Eastern Finnmark road-trip in 2023, I decided that was the time to make the extra trip over to the chapel. I didn’t expect that the drive would be one hour one way, or that the road would be less-than-desirable, but it was definitely worth it!

    Yes, it may seem a little strange to aim to head to this chapel, but maybe this is as close as I’ll get to Russia for a while.

    What makes this chapel so special? So many things!

    The Kong Oscar II Chapel is a unique historic site just 500 metres (1,600ft) from the Russian border. The border was laid out in 1826 and follows the deepest part of the Jakobselva River. As you drive to the chapel you’ll see Russia and the border markers: the Norwegian border posts are yellow and black, while the Russian border posts are red and green. There’s also a fence on the Norwegian side: it was erected to prevent reindeer and cattle straying across the border.

    The chapel’s location is strategic: it is a patriotic symbol that represents Norwegian religion, culture, and the border between West and East Europe. 

    Here’s my short overview of the King Oscar II Chapel. 

    In this article...

    The E6 Highway

    Kirkenes is located on the E6, Norway’s main highway. You can find my guide to the E6 by clicking the link below. 

    Norway's Coastal Ferry

    Kirkenes is a port of call of Norway’s coastal ferry. Find my guide for the coastal ferry by clicking the link below. 

    Historic Overview of Grense Jakobselv

    The settlement of Grense Jakobselv

    The area was originally inhabited by the Eastern Sami (Skolt Sami) and they have lived there for hundreds, if not thousands, of years. When the national border was drawn up in 1826, the Skolt Sami were forced to choose which side of the border they wanted to live on.

    The first Norwegian person settled in the area in 1851, and more people soon followed. The village of Grense Jakobselv was established, and at its peak the population was 100 with a school, shop, customs office, post office, and church. The road to the village was completed more than 100 years later, in 1965. 

    Why was the chapel built here?

    The short answer is politics. Despite the border being laid out in 1826, there were still disagreements between the Norwegian authorities and the Russian fishermen on the national border. After several confrontations, the County Governor of Finnmark wanted to sent a naval ship to monitor the fishermen on the border. Before that could happen, the Interior Ministry sent Lieutenant Commander Georg Heyerdahl to the north to become familiar with the case. Heyerdahl did not agree with the County Governor and instead proposed they build a chapel. A Lutheran chapel would be an indisputable boundary marking. After all, on the Russian side in Boris Gleb there is a Russian Orthodox Chapel that was used as a border demarcation in 1826. 

    The parallels with the chapel in Boris Gleb are striking, and it was believed that no one would dispute the land if a Lutheran chapel was built there. So they built it, and it worked!

    In the summer of 1869 the chapel was built. It was consecrated as “a spiritual watchtower against the eastern colossus’ various faiths”. It was built in the long church style with Neo-Gothic architecture representing Western European ideals. 

    Kong Oscar II visits the chapel

    In 1873, the Swedish-Norwegian King Oscar II visited the chapel. To commemorate the visit, he bestowed the chapel with a marble slab with the inscription “King Oscar II heard the words of God here on the 4th of July 1873” in Norwegian and Northern Sami.

    World War II

    This was the first place where the Norwegians saw the Soviet liberators in October 1944. The chapel survived the war (it is built in stone, after all) but all of the church silver was stolen during the liberation of Eastenr Finnmark. 

    Later Use

    Due to its location, the chapel has been an important landmark for sailors since the beginning. In order to make it more visible from the sea, the chapel was whitewashed in 1883. The whitewash was removed in 1969.

    King Olav V visited the chapel in 1959 and 1969 and a name plate was erected for this. 

    Practical Information

    How to get here (and what to see along the way)

    The King Oscar II Chapel is only accessible by car from Kirkenes. The drive is approximately 1 hour long (60km) and the last part of the road is a dirt track. The road is open in summer but closes in winter. Individual excursions can be arranged from Kirkenes.

    The road is very remote, and you will lose phone reception for parts of the drive. The scenery is very unique, though. Along the way, you pass the site of what is believed to be the oldest rock in Norway.

    The last 10 minutes or so is where you start seeing all the signs warning you of getting too close to the Russian border, as well as the military presence in the area. It is possible to see the Russian border markers across the river and get a quick photo, but there is no designated parking spot.

    In the picture above, I pulled over very quickly. You’ll see I’m basically leaning out the car door. I was parked on the road. Across the river is the red and green border marker, which is Russia. 

    As you get closer to the chapel, you will pass two historic wooden buildings. One of the buildings is called Preststua, the Priest Cottage, and was built for the travelling clergymen. During World War II, the building was used by Norwegian, German, and Russian soldiers.

    It is possible to see old houses half buried in the sand by the river; these were shacks of fishermen who lived here during the fishing season. The stone blocks by the riverbank are remnants of German fortifications.

    Parking

    There is a free parking lot across the street from the chapel. 

    Going inside the chapel

    The chapel is open for a short period over the summer months from approximately 11am until 2pm. 

    A little further away...

    If you follow the road a little further, to it’s very end, you get a great view out to the Barents Sea. There’s a camping area here and information signs about the border region. It’s called ‘Kaia’ (the pier). 

    Links & Resources

    Visit the Varanger tourism website for information on how to organise a guided visit to King Oscar II Chapel: https://www.visitgreaterarctic.com/

    The E6 Highway

    Kirkenes is located on the E6, Norway’s main highway. You can find my guide to the E6 by clicking the link below. 

    Norway's Coastal Ferry

    Kirkenes is a port of call of Norway’s coastal ferry. Find my guide for the coastal ferry by clicking the link below. 

  • The Witchcraft Trials of Vardø

    The Witchcraft Trials of Vardø

    The Vardø witch trials are regarded as some of the most brutal, intense and dramatic witch trials in Scandinavian history. It’s hard to believe a small community in the far north of Norway would see many people accused and convicted of witchcraft. In total, 150 people were executed for sorcery in Northern Norway between 1621 and 1663, before legal security and administration became better organised in 1666 (a fitting date, really). It is said that at times there were no families in Finnmark who were not affected by the witchcraft trials, either as prosecutors, witnesses, or convicts.

    In this article...

    Varanger Tourist Road

    Vardø is located on the E75, also known as the Varanger Tourist Road. You can find my guide to the E76 by clicking the link below. 

    Norway's Coastal Ferry

    Vardø is a port of call of Norway’s coastal ferry. Find my guide for the coastal ferry by clicking the link below. 

    Perceptions of Witchcraft in Northern Europe

    The new law of sorcery and witchcraft for the union of Denmark and Norway was issued and announced in Finnmark in 1620.

    At the time, Northern Norway was a place with lacking centralised law enforcement, so the local authorities had a great deal of power. These officials were typically not Norwegian but often men from Scotland, Germany and Denmark, countries with a history of witch trials. They brought their ideas of witchcraft and sorcery to the north, and it greatly influenced life in the Arctic. In Europe, religious experts often claimed that “the evil came from the North”, the home of the Sami people. Since the Sami people were not Christian and followed a shamanistic religion, they were also often considered to be practicing witchcraft.

    The officials believed they had been placed there to correct the population according to the Protestant religion. They painted the Sami as magicians and disapproved of Norwegian women along the coast being home for months when their husbands were out fishing, suspecting them of committing adultery with demons.

    Additionally, the Dutch and other European merchants would sail between Vardøhus and Russia to trade and warned their countrymen of the dangers of Satan, and it was believed the haunts and devils flew through the wicked winds of the north. Witches could conjure up mighty whirlwinds, poor weather, fog, thunder and lightning.

    The ordeal of water is how many women would be tested if they were a witch. Basically, they would be tied up and thrown into water. If they sank, they were innocent and died. If they floated, they were a witch and were then burned at the stake.

    The Three Waves of Witchcraft Trials in Vardø

    There were three major phases of the Vardø witch trials: 1621, 1651 and 1663. Let’s break down each one and try to understand the historic significance of the witchcraft trials.

    The Witch Trials of 1621

    The witch trials of 1621 begins with a big storm in 1617 that sunk ten boats and killed forty men. The storm was completely out of nowhere and took the men by surprise. It clearly had an effect on the town.

    Kiberg

    The trial took place at Vardøhus Fortress in 1621. Mari Jørgensdatter, a woman from Kiberg, was interrogated under torture. She confessed that Satan had come to her in Christmas 1620 and asked her to follow him to her neighbour, Kirsti Sørensdatter. He asked if she would serve him, and she said yes. They went to Kristi and together the women flew to the mountain Lyderhorn in Bergen, over 1,600km away, to attend the Sabbath with the devil. On top of Lyderhorn they went to Satan’s Christmas Party with dance and drink, and then flew back to Finnmark, though Kirsti decided to take the long way home by sea. Lyderhorn is mentioned in many witchcraft trials as a place where the women would meet with the devil.

    Vardohus Fortress, where many of the witchcraft trials took place.

    Mari confessed that the witches had caused the great storm, and that they had sexual intercourse with devils while the men were at sea. Another woman being interrogated, Else Knutsdatter, confirmed that the witches had tied a fishing rope three times, spat at it and untied it, after which “the sea rose like ashes and people were killed”. Else was seen in the company of demons and was exposed to the ordeal of water.

    Kirsti Sørensdatter was confirmed by many of the women to be the leader. She was arrested when she arrived back from Bergen via ship. Kirsti was married to a wealthy merchant Anders Johanssen from Helsingør in Denmark, where it was said she learned sorcery from an old woman. Under torture, she confirmed everything. Kirsti was sentence to be burned alive at the stake on 28 April 1621.

    That was the end of the first wave of witchcraft trials.

    The Witch Trials of 1651

    This phase in witchcraft resulted in the death of 17 women by burning. It centred around women having caused – or attempted – to have caused ship wrecks by use of witchcraft.

    The Witch Trials of 1662-63

    The final phase of witchcraft trials is considered to be one of the biggest in Scandinavia. Thirty women were put on trial, accused of sorcery and making pacts with the devil. One was sentenced to a work house, two tortured to death, and eighteen were burned alive at the stake. The trial centred around the belief that the women had been partying with the Devil. To be honest, the parties with the Devil actually sound quite nice. But that’s not the point. The parties took place on a mountain called Domen, which overlooks the town of Vardø.

    The mountain Domen, seen from Vardø, where women supposedly met with the devil.

    It started with Dorthe Lauritzdatter was brought in to Vardøhus Fortress for questioning. Local man Lauritz Braas claimed that two of his servants, who had recently died, claimed to have been bewitched by her. Four witches led by Dorthe in the shape of a dove, eagle, crow and swan were to have opened their “wind-knots” over the sea to make a boat sink, but the plot failed because the crew prayed to God. Dorthe was burned at the stake.

    The next was Ingeborg Iversdatter, who confessed during an interrogation on 26 January 1663 that she and Sølve Nilsdatter had celebrated Christmas on Kiberg. They had transformed themselves into cats and crawled under a gate to meet Maren Olsdatter and Sirgi Klockare, who were incarcerated for witchcraft. They broke into a basement and drank lots of wine while Satan held a candle for them. Sølve had drunk so much that Satan had a hard time getting her on her feet and back to jail. The priest of the fortress pointed out that this must have been the reason why alcohol disappeared from the basement. Sølve later confessed to the giant witches sabbath that had taken place on the Dovrefjell mountains in southern Norway, where witches had arrived in the shapes of dogs and cats to drink and dance with Satan.

    Maren has a sad story. When she was twelve, her mother was executed for sorcery. She had been taken care by her aunt for several years before her aunt was also burned. Maren was interrogated and she claimed to have visited Hell, where she was given a tour by Satan. She later visited a sabbath on Domen, where Satan played dancing music on a red violin and gave the witches beer before following each of them home personally. The court asked her who she had seen there, and she gave the names of five women. All the women Maren mentioned were burned to death in Vardø on 20 March 1663.

    The last accused witches were brought in on 25 June 1663. Maren told the court that she had been forced to lie against other people, denouncing them for witch craft. She said that the now-exiled Anne Rhodius had forced her to do it. The court sentenced Maren for having lied and to stay for some time in the work house in Bergen. However, it is likely she didn’t do that as there is documentation that she lived in Vardø after 1663.

    The End of the Trials

    The trials ended thanks to Mandrup Pedersen Schønnebøl, who was a judge.He saw the madness of burning people alive on the basis of rumours and opposed public opinion by destroying the legal basis for burning accused witches. In 1687, a requirement for judgements in witchcraft cases to be heard at parliament before a death sentence could be carried out became law. Norway’s last known witch execution took place in 1695.

    Steilneset Memorial

    In Vardø you can visit Steilneset Memorial, which opened in 2011 to commemorate the victims of the witchcraft trials. The memorial was jointly commissioned by the town of Vardø, Finnmark County, the Varanger Museum and the Norwegian Public Roads Administration as part of the development of the National Tourist Routes in Norway. The memorial was designed by French-American artist Louise Bourgeois and Swiss architect Peter Zumthor. The long timber walkway has 91 randomly placed windows representing those executed, each one accompanied by a text explaining each person. The second building has a metal chair with perpetual flames projecting through its seat.

    The attraction is open 24-7 and is free. When you step inside, be sure to look by the door. They have booklets with English translations of all the womens testimonies.

    Recommended Reading

    The witchcraft trials of Vardø are the basis for a book called The Mercies by Kiran Millwood Hargrave. It tells the story of the trials in Vardø through the eyes of Ursa, the new wife of a Scottish witch hunter, who leaves her Bergen childhood home for the wilds of Finnmark.

    You can see the book on Amazon here: https://www.amazon.com/Mercies-Kiran-Millwood-Hargrave/dp/0316529257

    Varanger Tourist Road

    Vardø is located on the E75, also known as the Varanger Tourist Road. You can find my guide to the E76 by clicking the link below. 

    Norway's Coastal Ferry

    Vardø is a port of call of Norway’s coastal ferry. Find my guide for the coastal ferry by clicking the link below. 

  • Historic Helsinki Self-Guided Walking Tour

    Historic Helsinki Self-Guided Walking Tour

    Explore Helsinki with our self-guided walking tour. Helsinki is the youngest of the Nordic capitals. It was established in 1550 by King Gustav Vasa, but didn’t see development until the early 19th century, when it was transformed into the capital under Russian rule. But this doesn’t mean that Helsinki is a boring, modern city! In fact, quite the opposite. Helsinki is a gem of architecture, from the Neo-Classical Russian style to the trendy, almost political Art Nouveau of the early 20th century.

    On this walk I focus on the historic centre of Helsinki, in particular the areas around Market Square, Senate Square, and the Esplanade. 

    In this article...

    Downloadable Version of This Guide

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided walks on our online store. 

    Online Guide

    Downloadable Guide

    Helsinki Self-Guided Walking Tour

    This walk begins on Market Square, under the monolith with the Russian Eagle. 

    Market Square

    Market Square is the central square of Helsinki. In the summertime, there are vendors here selling Finnish food and souvenirs. In October, the annual herring market is held here. If you happen to be here on the first Friday of the month, don’t be confused if you see a lot of Old American cars – this is a long tradition at Market Square!

    The ferries to Suomenlinna leave from Market Square.

    There are a number of interesting historic buildings on Market Square, so let’s look at those before going to Uspenski Cathedral.

    Stora Enso Headquarters

    The Stora Enso headquarters is a distinctive building designed by the renowned Finnish architect Alvar Aalto and completed in 1962. The materials used included Carrara marble, granite, copper, and brass. It is commonly called ‘the sugar cube’ by locals and is something of a controversial building because many believe it clashes with the historic neo-classical architecture of Market Square. It has at times been called the ugliest building in Finland, but since 2010 it has been granted protection status.

    Stora Enso is a major Finnish company that develops and produces solutions based in wood.

    Presidential Palace

    The Presidential Palace is the official residence of Finland’s president. The building was originally constructed as a residence for a merchant, Johan Henrik Heidenstrauch. In 1837, since the building was so lavish, it was purchased to be converted into the residence for the Governor General of Finland, but instead became the official residence in Helsinki of the Emperor of Russia. The building was re-designed by Carl Ludvig Engel to give it the characteristic neo-classical look it has today. When Finland became independent and the Constitution was passed in 1919, it was converted to the Presidential Palace.

    Uspenski Cathedral

    Uspenski Cathedral feels like a fitting place to start this walk. We will come back to Market Square a little later. The cathedral was completed in 1868 and serves the Finnish-speaking Orthodox congregation. It is believed to be the largest orthodox church in Western Europe and was completed using 700,000 bricks.

    The cathedral is one of the clearest symbols of Russian history in Helsinki. 

    It is possible to visit the cathedral for free. Visit their website for up-to-date opening hours: https://www.hos.fi/en/uspenski-cathedral-main-cathedral-of-the-orthodox-parish-of-helsinki-and-the-diocese-of-helsinki/

    Main Guard Post

    This blue building is the Main Guard Post. It was built in this location in 1843. Historically it was the central guard post of the Helsinki garrison, acting as a post to guard the most important military targets. It was also where they would detain soldiers who were drinking alcohol.

    In Finland there is compulsory military service for men, and this is one of the places they can do their service. They guard from 7:45am in the morning until 10pm at night. One guard shift lasts an hour at most, or only twenty minutes in winter. They must stand absolutely still and carry assault rifles on their backs.

    The Second Customs House & Historic Harbour

    The body of water you see is where the original harbour of Helsinki was while Finland was under Swedish rule. This can therefore be regarded as one of the oldest places in the city. The red brick building is the customs and packing house from 1854. It was built to replace the original customs house, which we will see next. Today this building is a day-care.

    Aleksanterinkatu

    Aleksanterinkatu is a historic street in Helsinki. It is believed to have been here since Helsinki was founded in 1550 but got its current name in 1833 after Emperor Alexander I. Trams have run on the street since the beginning of Helsinki’s trams. This is also the official Christmas street of Finland since 1949.  

    Historic Customs House

    This yellow building tucked away is the historic customs and packing house from 1765. It is one of the few surviving buildings from the time of the Swedish rule. The reason why it is at an angle is because there was originally a plan to build a wall around Helsinki, and this building follows the curve of the wall. However, those plans were never finalised. Today the building is protected.

    Oldest Building in Central Helsinki

    The Sederholm House is a stone house from 1757, making it the oldest building in central Helsinki. It was built for a Swedish merchant. Ever since 2015 the free Helsinki City Museum has been located inside the building.  

    Senate Square

    Once Helsinki was established as the new capital of Finland, Senate Square became the main square. The buildings here are designed by Carl Ludvig Engel in the distinctive neo-classical style.

    Before this became Senate Square, this was a graveyard with a church called the Ulriika Eleonoora Church. When it was designated as the new centre of Helsinki, all the historic buildings as well as the church were torn down. The graves were not moved, so the graves from the 17th and 18th centuries are still under the square. Even in the 2000s, bones have come up in connection with construction work.

    Here is an overview of the most distinctive buildings as well as the statue of Alexander II. Stand in front of Helsinki Cathedral and face it. 

    Government Palace

    This building is to the right of Helsinki Cathedral.

    The Government Palace of Helsinki is the office building of the Council State of Finland and the reason for the name ‘Senate Square’. The Senate moved into the palace in 1822 after the building was completed. In the early years of Finland, the building was home to many important public agencies, including the Bank of Finland, Post of Finland, Customs Board and National Archives.    

    University of Helsinki

    This building is to the left of Helsinki Cathedral.

    The University building was completed in 1832. It was heavily damaged due to bombing during World War II and had to be reconstructed. 

    Helsinki Cathedral

    Helsinki Cathedral is the main Lutheran Church of Helsinki. The church was completed in 1852 in a neoclassical style with a Greek cross layout. The two white buildings on either side of the cathedral are later additions: the one to the left is a bell tower, while the one to the right is a chapel. The zinc statues of the Twelve Apostles are also a later addition.     

    Statue of Alexander II

    The statue of Emperor Alexander II was erected in 1894 to commemorate his re-establishment of the Diet of Finland in 1863. Alexander II also fought for Finnish autonomy and promoted the use of the Finnish language, amongst other things. The figures around the statue represent law, culture, and peasants. While there have been debates if the statue should be removed, it remains a symbol of the role Alexander II had in establishing Finnish statehood.   

    Sofiankatu

    Sofiankatu is a historic street in Helsinki city centre. The street has existed since the 1640s, though the buildings here are from the early 19th century under Russian rule. The cobblestone on the ground represents the two eras: the smoother cobblestone is from the Russian time, while the uneven cobblestone is from the Swedish time. Here you will also see the street sign in the three languages: Finnish, Swedish and Russian.

    Havis Amanda

    The Havis Amanda is a statue that was put on this site in 1908. The work drew strong criticism at first, especially from women who thought its nakedness and seductiveness was inappropriate. Some womens groups even called it as a ‘common French whore’ (the model was in France). The sea lions, with their tongues out, were said to represent men lusting after the woman. However, many of the Swedish elite loved the statue as it made Helsinki look more like a cultural European capital. The statue is supposed to represent Helsinki as the woman rising from the Baltic Sea, which is represented by the sea lions.

    The Esplanade

    The Esplanade is a public park and esplanade designed by architect Carl Ludvig Engel during his construction of Helsinki around 1818.

    On the eastern end of the park, where you are now, is the historic Kappeli restaurant from 1867. The stage outside the restaurant has several music performances throughout the summer months.

    Many of the historic buildings are on the right side, so I’ll focus on that side. However, it is worth while walking down the centre of the Esplanade too. You’ll see a statue of Johan Ludvig Runeberg, the national poet of Finland and other statues of prominent Finns. 

    Uschakoff House (Roberts Coffee)

    The Uschakoff House was originally built in 1815 for Jegor Uschakoff, a Russian merchant who immigrated to Finland in 1808. The building had warehouses and shops on the ground floor and apartments on the upper floor. In 1896, the building was sold to the Private Bank of Helsinki and rebuilt into the Art Nouveau style. The bank closed in 1922 and the city bought the building. The Art Nouveau Hall has been preserved inside and now it is a Roberts Coffee. Highly recommended to go in!

    Academic Bookstore

    I know this is technically a history walk, but we have to include Alvar Aalto wherever possible. On the right, towards the end of the Esplanade, is the Academic Bookstore designed by Alvar Aalto and opened in 1969. The interior of the building is lovely and worth visiting.

    Stockmann Department Store

    The beautiful brick building at the end of the street is called the Argos House. It was completed in 1897. It was originally built as a residential building and is one of the first Art Nouveau buildings to be completed in Helsinki. Stockmann department store bought the building in 1919 and has been there ever since.  

    Swedish Theatre

    You have now made it to the end of the Esplanade, where the Swedish Theatre is.

    The first theatre to be constructed on this site was completed in 1825 and was a small wooden theatre. The building was designed by, you guessed it, Carl Ludvig Engel. However, the theatre soon became cramped, so it was decided to build a new theatre out of stone. The current building was inaugurated in 1866 and was originally called the New Theatre. However, when the Finnish language theatre was established in 1872, the name was changed to Svenska Teatern, or Swedish Theatre.

    Thanks for coming!

    I hope you enjoyed this walk around the historic area of Helsinki. Be sure to visit our travel guide page to learn more about this wonderful capital! 

  • Drive it Yourself: Båtsfjord to Kjøllefjord

    Drive it Yourself: Båtsfjord to Kjølleford

    The drive from Båtsfjord to Kjøllefjord is perfect if you want to avoid large crowds, towns, settlements, or any trace of civilisation. Sure, there may not be many shops or villages to stop at, but what makes this drive so special is the scenery. Both the Varanger peninsula and the Nordkyn peninsula are spectacular for geology, unique landscapes, and history. Just be warned – these are some of the most difficult roads to cross in winter and will probably be closed.

    I did this drive in September 2023, which was the best time of year to go – no snow, no mass amounts of caravans, but gorgeous orange colours and the northern lights at night. 

    In this article...

    Download this Guide

    All of our guides can be downloaded via our online store. 

    Download this guide to have it as a PDF ready to go for your road-trip!

    All downloadable guides come with an interactive Google Map for easier navigation. 

    Online Guide
    Downloadable Guide
    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    Båtsfjord to Kjøllefjord

    Båtsfjord

    Båtsfjord is one of Norway’s largest fishing communities and is also one of the most culturally diverse in the country. 

    Båtsfjordsfjellet

    Mountains

    Now you cross the Båtsfjordfjellet mountain at 358m above sea level. 

    Berlevåg Municipality

    Berlevåg municipality is located on the northwestern part of the Varanger peninsula. Most of the settlement is concentrated around the village of Berlevåg, though Kongsfjord is the second largest settlement. The coat-of-arms represents the municipality’s dependence on the sea – the waves towards the beach. The five waves represent the five places with permanent settlement.

    Tana-Deanu Municipality

    The Sami word “Deanu” The Sami word can be translated as ‘great river’, referring to the Tana River. The population of the municipality is around 2,800, with the population currently declining.

    The coat-of-arms represents riverboats that have been used in the area for centuries. The three boats symbolise the three ethnic groups here: Sami, Kven and Norwegian, and the colours mimic the red and yellow of the Norwegian coat-of-arms.

    The most important industries are agriculture or timber. The world’s northernmost dairy is Tine in Tana Bru, and it employs around 30 people.

    The municipality is located along the lower river basin of the Tana River. Most of the inhabitants are Sami people. The river is one of Europe’s main salmon rivers, though no large-scale commercial fishing is done.

    Austertana

    Village

    Austertana is a small village located along one of the inner bays of the Tanafjord. The village is home to both the Austertana Chapel and the world’s second largest quartzite quarry. Most of the town was destroyed by Nazis at the end of World War II.

    The highest mountain on the Varanger peninsula, named Stangenestind, is 724m above sea level and is at Austertana. The northernmost point of the Scandinavian birch forest is also here. In Austertana you can find Norway’s longest sandy beach; it is 13km long.

    After Austertana you pass through a boomgate. The road to Berlevåg often closes in winter due to snowstorms, isolating the town from the rest of Norway. The daily coastal ferry (Hurtigruten and Havila) is an essential service during this time. 

    Tana Bru

    This is the main village in Deanu-Tana. Tana Bru means ‘Tana Bridge’ in English and is named after the bridge that crosses the river to the village of Skiippagurra on the other side of the river.

    Rustefjelbma

    Village

    In the village of Rustefjelbma is the Tana Church. The church was consecrated in 1964 and seats 300 people. The old Tana Church was burned down by retreating Nazi forces in 1944.

    Mountain crossing

    Mountains

    You now cross the mountains next to the Tanafjord. This stretch of road can close in winter. 

    Gamvik Municipality

    Gamvik Municipality’s main centre is Mehamn, which we will visit later in this drive. Gamvik is known as one of the poorest and most undeveloped municipalities in Norway and has a declining population.

    The coat-of-arms shows fishing net sewing needles, a characteristic maritime tool used for making and mending the fishing nets used by local fishermen.

    Lebesby Municipality

    Lebesby municipality’s administrative centre is Kjøllefjord, where this drive ends. The municipality is dominated by ethnic Norwegians, whereas the areas around the Laksefjorden are predominantly Sami.

    Ifjord

    Village

    Ifjord is a small village. This is where you turn onto the Fv888 towards Kjøllefjord. 

    Bekkarfjord

    Village

    Bekkarfjord is an agricultural community with three dairy farms and Finnmark’s largest chicken farm.

    Boom gate

    Road info

    We are going to pass a boomgate now with a parking area where you have to wait for the convoy in winter. The Fv888, the highway we are on, opened in 1989 and is regarded as Norway’s most difficult highway to cross in winter because of frequent snowstorms and strong winds. It is common for the road to close in winter.

    Nordkyn Peninsula

    Peninsula

    The Nordkyn peninsula has a unique barren landscape. There’s no high peaks here, and there are large areas of ‘boulder oceans’ – expanses of broken rock virtually without soil or vegetation. The peninsula also has bustling fishing villages and lots of history. It ends at Kinnarodden, the northernmost point on mainland Europe.

    The peninsula is connected to the mainland at Hopseidet, a narrow isthmus between Eidsfjorden in the west and Hopsfjorden in the east. The isthmus is 2km wide at low tide, 500m wide at high tide, and the highest point is 2.5m above sea level. In the 17th century there were settlements here and a church. There have been many debates and discussions concerning the construction of a ship canal so boats aren’t exposed to the bad weather around the peninsula. 

    The Fv888 crosses this small isthmus. 

    Gamvik Municipality

    You cross back into Gamvik. 

    Nordkyn Junction

    Road info

    Shortly after crossing onto the peninsula you reach a junction – left to Kjøllefjord or right to Mehamn. This guide will include information on the road to Mehamn and Gamvik before ending at Kjøllefjord.

    Mehamn

    Welcome to Mehamn, the northernmost port of call on the coastal ferry and an important fishing village. 

    Gamvik

    Village

    Gamvik is a small fishing village with a population of around 100 people. The village was historically only accessible by boat and used to be a port of call for the Hurtigruten ships. However, since the harbour was so poor, the daily Hurtigruten steamers had to anchor a little way from the shore. The Hurtigruten stopped calling here in 1990.

    Gamvik is the place in Norway with the longest road distance from Oslo at 2,040km (1,270 miles) including going through international routes.

    Gamvik Church was built in 1958 on the site of the former church that was burned down during World War II. The first church to be built in Gamvik, known as the ‘Lapp Church’, or the ‘Sami Chapel’, was consecrated in 1858. It was a missionary church.

    Gamvik has the characteristic post-war architecture that prevailed during the rebuilding process after 1945. The population was forcibly evacuated in 1944 when all the houses were burnt down and the quaysides and boats were blown up or burnt.

    In the centre of the community is the Brodtkorb fish processing wharf. The wharf was owned by the Brodtkorb traders in Vardø. The wharf closed in 1969 because of the collapse of the market for dried fish. It is now used as a museum by Gamvik museum.

    Slettnes Lighthouse

    Lighthouse

    Slettnes Lighthouse is a historic lighthouse. It is the only cast iron lighthouse in Finnmark, built by bolting together cast iron rings. The lighthouse keeper and his assistants used to live here permanently. Four families each had their own house, animals and outside toilets. It wasn’t until the first road was built in the 1970s that it was possible to work on a rotation basis.

    The lighthouse wasn’t completely destroyed during World War II. The area around the lighthouse is an area with traces of some of the oldest settlements in Finnmark along with traces of old fishing settlements.

    Between Slettnes and Gamvik is an almost in tact fort from World War Ii. The bunkers, cannon emplacements and trenches have all been preserved. At lost, 130 men were stationed at the fort.

    Slettnes is a protected nature reserve. As many as 95 different species of birds have been observed in the nature reserve and 53 of these breed every year. It is one of the most important nature reserves in Scandinavia, both as a stop-over point for migrating birds and as a breeding area.

    Continue back to Kjøllefjord.

    Kjøllefjord

    Kjøllefjord is a charming fishing village located on the north-western part of the Nordkyn peninsula. 

    Next Drive

    Varanger Tourist Road

    Follow the Varanger Tourist Road from Hamningberg to Varangerbotn via Vardø and Vadsø. 

    Previous Drive

    Berlevåg to Båtsfjord

    This road follows the “Ishavsveien” – Arctic Sea Road – from Berlevåg to Båtsfjord. 

  • Drive it Yourself: Berlevåg to Båtsfjord

    Drive it Yourself: Berlevåg to Båtsfjord

    The drive from Berlevåg to Båtsfjord is something special. Both ports are incredibly isolated on the Finnmark coast, but are vital fishing communities for Norway. The rugged shoreline has been shaped by bad weather from the Barents Sea, and the geology here is some of the oldest in Norway. The drive itself is short, but well worth it on any road-trip in the north. 

    Here’s my self-guided drive from Berlevåg to Båtsfjord. 

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    Download this Guide

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    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

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    Online Guide

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    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    Berlevåg to Båtsfjord

    Berlevåg

    Welcome to Berlevåg! Berlevåg is a small fishing community facing the Barents Sea. Berlevåg is famous around Norway for its mens choir!

    Kongshavn

    Cultural Heritage Site

     Kongshavn has remains of settlements dating approximately 10,000 years back, from the early Stone Age to the 190s. The older settlements are higher up, indicating where the shoreline used to be. 11 housegrounds from the late Stone Age are here, while closer to the sea are 4-5 sites of houses from the Iron Age.

    The site is not marked with signs, but there is a parking lot. 

    Kjølnes Lighthouse

    Lighthouse

    Ishavsveien

    Road

    The road is commonly called Ishavsveien and is fascinating for those interested in geology as there’s no soil or vegetation concealig the various types of rock, sediments and rock formations. Prehistoric shorelines here show how the land has risen.

    Kongsfjord

    Village

    Kongsfjord is a small fishing village with a population of around 32 people. It has been inhabited for hundreds of years and Kongsfjord is one of the few fishing settlements that wasn’t destroyed during World War II. The Kongsfjord River has special protection as a salmon river, and parts of the fjord are protected as a special landscape.

    The local shop (pictured top left) is full of charm and is a must-see when driving here. 

    Kongsfjordfjellet

    Mountains

    You now cross the Kongsfjordfjellet mountain, which is 326m (1069ft) above sea level. 

    Båtsfjordsfjellet

    Mountains

    Now you cross the Båtsfjordfjellet mountain at 358m above sea level. 

    Båtsfjord Municipality

    The landscape in Båtsfjord is geologically very old by Scandinavian standards, and to a large extent formed before the last ice ages. Ice sheets from the last ice ages lay frozen over large parts of the Varanger peninsula and thus changed the landscape to a small extent. The large block field areas are believed to be very old, before the last ice age.

    However, the ice has left behind a large number (several thousand) of distinctive ring-shaped formations, formations that are otherwise known from only a few places in the world. The area is also characterised by many long and sometimes crossing gullies, which tell a lot about the melting and movement of the ice.

    Båtsfjord

    Båtsfjord is one of Norway’s largest fishing communities and is also one of the most culturally diverse in the country. 

    Next Drive

    Varanger Tourist Road

    Follow the Varanger Tourist Road from Hamningberg to Varangerbotn via Vardø and Vadsø. 

    Previous Drive

    Berlevåg to Båtsfjord

    This road follows the “Ishavsveien” – Arctic Sea Road – from Berlevåg to Båtsfjord. 

  • Drive it Yourself: Varangerbotn to Berlevåg

    Drive it Yourself: Varangerbotn to Berlevåg

    The short drive from Varangerbotn to Berlevåg is incredible. After venturing off the E6 highway, you cross the Kongsfjordfjellet mountains, leave the tree line, and then drive alongside the Barents Sea. The last part of the drive – nicknamed the ‘Arctic Sea Road’ – is considered one of the best geological areas in Norway. 

    The road often closes in winter, so this is only a summer drive. 

    In this article...

    Download this Guide

    All of our guides can be downloaded via our online store. 

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

    All of our guides come with Google Map links, making it easier to navigate your road-trip!

    Online Guide

    Downloadable Guide

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    Varangerbotn to Berlevåg

    Varangerbotn

    Village

    Varangerbotn is a small village that is the administrative centre of Nesseby. The population is around 341. In Varanger you can visit the Varanger Sami Museum, a museum for the history and culture of the Sami in Varangerbotn. The museum presents the Sea Sami history, Sami prehistory, and contemporary Sami culture.

    Tana-Deanu Municipality

    The Sami word “Deanu” The Sami word can be translated as ‘great river’, referring to the Tana River. The population of the municipality is around 2,800, with the population currently declining.

    The coat-of-arms represents riverboats that have been used in the area for centuries. The three boats symbolise the three ethnic groups here: Sami, Kven and Norwegian, and the colours mimic the red and yellow of the Norwegian coat-of-arms.

    The most important industries are agriculture or timber. The world’s northernmost dairy is Tine in Tana Bru, and it employs around 30 people.

    The municipality is located along the lower river basin of the Tana River. Most of the inhabitants are Sami people. The river is one of Europe’s main salmon rivers, though no large-scale commercial fishing is done.

    Skiippagurra

    Skiippagurra has a population of around 254 residents and is a historic trading place. This is where the E6 stops following the Tana River and continues across to Kirkenes.

    Tana Bru

    This is the main village in Deanu-Tana. Tana Bru means ‘Tana Bridge’ in English and is named after the bridge that crosses the river to the village of Skiippagurra on the other side of the river.

    At Tana Bru, leave the E6 and follow signs to Berlevåg. 

    Austertana

    Village

    Austertana is a small village located along one of the inner bays of the Tanafjord. The village is home to both the Austertana Chapel and the world’s second largest quartzite quarry. Most of the town was destroyed by Nazis at the end of World War II.

    The highest mountain on the Varanger peninsula, named Stangenestind, is 724m above sea level and is at Austertana. The northernmost point of the Scandinavian birch forest is also here. In Austertana you can find Norway’s longest sandy beach; it is 13km long.

    After Austertana you pass through a boomgate. The road to Berlevåg often closes in winter due to snowstorms, isolating the town from the rest of Norway. The daily coastal ferry (Hurtigruten and Havila) is an essential service during this time. 

    Kongsfjordfjellet

    Mountains

    You now cross the Kongsfjordfjellet mountain, which is 326m (1069ft) above sea level. 

    Berlevåg Municipality

    Berlevåg municipality is located on the northwestern part of the Varanger peninsula. Most of the settlement is concentrated around the village of Berlevåg, though Kongsfjord is the second largest settlement. The coat-of-arms represents the municipality’s dependence on the sea – the waves towards the beach. The five waves represent the five places with permanent settlement.

    Buetjernet

    Settlement

    Buetjernet is located just after the turn-off from the road to Båtsfjord. There is no permanent settlement here; these are all cabins. 

    Kongsfjord

    Village

    Kongsfjord is a small fishing village with a population of around 32 people. It has been inhabited for hundreds of years and Kongsfjord is one of the few fishing settlements that wasn’t destroyed during World War II. The Kongsfjord River has special protection as a salmon river, and parts of the fjord are protected as a special landscape.

    The local shop (pictured top left) is full of charm and is a must-see when driving here. 

    Ishavsveien

    Road

    The road is commonly called Ishavsveien and is fascinating for those interested in geology as there’s no soil or vegetation concealig the various types of rock, sediments and rock formations. Prehistoric shorelines here show how the land has risen.

    Kjølnes Lighthouse

    Lighthouse

    Varangerbotn is a small village that is the administrative centre of Nesseby. The population is around 341. In Varanger you can visit the Varanger Sami Museum, a museum for the history and culture of the Sami in Varangerbotn. The museum presents the Sea Sami history, Sami prehistory, and contemporary Sami culture.

    Berlevåg

    Welcome to Berlevåg! Berlevåg is a small fishing community facing the Barents Sea. Berlevåg is famous around Norway for its mens choir!

    Next Drive

    Berlevåg to Båtsfjord

    This road follows the “Ishavsveien” – Arctic Sea Road – from Berlevåg to Båtsfjord. 

    Previous Drive

    Varanger Tourist Road

    Follow the Varanger Tourist Road from Hamningberg to Varangerbotn via Vardø and Vadsø. 

  • Drive it Yourself: Varanger Tourist Road

    Drive it Yourself: Varanger Tourist Road

    The Varanger Tourist Road is one of Norway’s 18 national tourist roads and is definitely one of the most special. The Varanger Peninsula is a rugged mountain area partly covered in birch trees and partly above the tree line. Parts of the peninsula used to have an Arctic tundra climate but don’t any more. Still, the geology here is unique as most of the landscape was made before the last Ice Age. 

    The route is so special – you see lunar landscapes, flat plains, rolling hills and birch forests. You also pass sights with history and sites going back 10,000 years, abandoned fishing villages, and so much more. 

    Enjoy the Varanger Tourist Road. 

    In this article...

    Download this Guide

    All of our guides can be downloaded via our online store. 

    Download this guide to have it as a PDF ready to go for your road-trip!

    All downloadable guides come with an interactive Google Map for easier navigation. 

    Online Guide

    Downloadable Guide

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    The Varanger Tourist Road

    Hamningberg

    This drive begins in Hamningberg, which is an abandoned fishing village with many buildings from before World War II. 

    Before the Second World War, around 700 people lived here. Hamningberg was one of the largest fishing communities in Finnmark and took part in the Pomor trade. However, the last three people left in 1978. 

    Vardø Municipality

    Vardø municipality is one of the first municipalities to be established in Northern Norway. The coat-of-arms is from 1898 and represents the sunshine, fishing boats, the ocean, and a large cod. In the chief is the year of the towns founding, 1789, along with the words “Vardöensis Insignia Urbis” which means “the seal of the town of Vardø”. In the lower part of the arms is the town motto “Cedant Tenebræ Soli”, meaning “Darkness shall give way to the sun”.

    Several Stone Age sites as well as sites dating from the Sami Iron Age have been found here. Vardø became a Norwegian settlement in the medieval period, and the first church was built here in 1307.

    Fishing and seafood processing are Vardø’s major sources of income. The municipality also has large seabird colonies on the islands of Hornøya and Reinøya.

    WWII Memorial

    Memorial

    Shortly after crossing into Vardø municipality you will pass this memorial on the left side. It is for three men who were executed here during World War II. 

    The drive from Hamningberg to Vardø is incredible. Be sure to stop as much as possible!

    Vardø

    The road does not go through Vardø, but the town is a short detour off the highway. I do recommend visiting the town – there’s a lot to see and do, and it also has a petrol station and some coffee shops. 

    Domen

    Viewpoint

    The mountain Domen is fairly unique thanks to its history. It has been known as ‘Heksefjellet’ (witch mountain) for a few hundred years as it’s believed that this is the place where the witches were meeting with the devil.

    The Vardø area was regarded as one of the worst areas in terms of the scope of the brutal witch hunts. In the year 1662/63 more than 30 women in Vardø were accused of witchcraft. Many of the women said that on the mountain Domen they had danced, drunk and consorted with the Devil. Domen was also where the ceremonies and sabbaths took place.

    It was believed that the devil lived in a cave in the mountain. Vardø’s location at what seems like the end of the world inspired speculation that this was the entrance to hell. This may explain why so much witch burning went on.

    Kiberg

    Village

    Kiberg was one of the largest fishing communities in the area during the 16th and 17th centuries, and was important during the Pomor Trade era. Kiberg is still important for fishing.

    Two women from Kiberg were burned at the stake during the 1621 witchcraft trials in Vardø. Their names were Mari Jørgensdatter and Kirsti Sørensdatter, and Kirsti was the last victim of the witchcraft trials.

    Kiberg was of strategic importance during World War II. The geographical proximity to the Soviet Union brought Russian and Norwegian people together. After the occupation of Norway, many locals went to the Soviet Union. Some returned and worked for the Soviet military intelligence services, with as many as 45 partisans in Kiberg.

    Their most important task was to pass on radio communications about the German shipping fleet. It has been estimated that around 80 German merchant ships were sunk on their way to Kirkenes due to the partisans passing on information. Around half the partisans were killed or executed during the war.

    In Kiberg you can visit the Partisan Museum, which is about the events here during World War II. 

    Vadsø Municipality

    Vadsø municipality is named after the town of Vadsø that we will soon be driving through. The coat-of-arms shows a reindeer as reindeer husbandry is common for the municipality and of great economic importance, especially for the Sami people.

    The municipality spreads across the southern coast of the Varanger peninsula. There are trees here as this part of the peninsula is sheltered from the sea, but the tree line is at around 200 metres above sea level.

    Skallelv

    Village

    Skallelv was originally one of the several purely Finnish communities in the area, populated at the end of the 19th century. The local people were known as Kvens, the North-Norwegian name for people of Norwegian-Finnish descent. Skallelv is one of the few remaining areas with buildings that were constructed before World War II. The oldest wooden houses here are from before 1860.

    Ekkerøy

    Village

    There has been settlement on Ekkerøy since at least the Middle Ages, and finds from the Viking Age have been found there. However, it is not known if Vikings settled there or if they traded there.

    Ekkerøy was an island until 1750, but now there is a land connection to the mainland. Ekkerøy was built up as a fishing village and at its peak had several landing piers, shops, a school, shrimp factory, fish oil processing plant, and dried fish racks. There were 270 people living there; today there are less than 50.

    Parts of Ekkerøy have been declared a nature reserve and the island also has a small bird cliff. In the breeding season, which is from May to September, the cliffs may be home to as many as 20,000 kittiwake pairs.

    The settlement of Ekkerøy was not destroyed during World War II. The well-preserved fish factory is now a museum with warehouses, a cod liver oil steamer, an old shop and an authentically furnished traders residence.

    Vadsø

    The only major town we drive through is Vadsø. There is a lot worth seeing here, so browse our separate travel guide page below. 

    Vestre Jakobselv

    Village

    Vestre Jakobselv is a small village with around 500 people living here. It has a primary and secondary school. The village is popular for its salmon fishing as the Jakobselva river has its outlet here.

    Nesseby Municipality

    Nesseby is a small municipality located at the isthmus between the Varangerfjord and the Tana River at the entrance to the Varanger peninsula. The population lives in small settlements along the fjord and the Varangerhalvøya National Park is partly located in the park. The municipality is known for its interesting birdlife and also its tundra with areas of bog and marsh.

    Today the municipality is known as Unjárga-Nesseby, reflecting the Sami community who live here. Nesseby was the second municipality in Norway to get a Sami name. Most of the inhabitants are Sami and Sami is being taught as the first language in schools. In historic times, reindeer used to cross this area as part of their annual migration.

    This led the Sami to coming into the area. The area between Skippagurra and Varangerbotn is full of archaeological finds from different periods.

    The coat-of-arms represents a cloudberry plant.

    The municipality is the birthplace of Isak Saba, the first Sami to be elected to the Norwegian parliament.

    Mortesnes Site

    Historic Site

    Mortesnes is considered to be one of the richest and most diverse cultural areas in Europe. The uninterrupted timeline and cultural contunity makes the area special. The land here has remains from the past, documenting a 10,000 year history of unbroken settlement and provides a picture of key feature in the development of the settlement of Finnmark after the last Ice Age. The area also provides a picture of the background and emergence of Sami cultural features.

    There is a walking trail that you can follow. Here you can see traces of settlement in the form of tent rings and tufts on the shorelines according to the past sea levels. The area also contains a large, pre-Christian burial ground, which dates from approx. 1000BC to 1500AD. Over 400 graves are here. Various sacrificial places have also been found. The most famous monument here is Transteinen, which was believed to be smeared with cod liver oil to ensure good fishing luck.

    One of the oldest ski finds in Norway comes from one of the graves in the area and was found in 1853. The skis are from 400BC. Reindeer trapping facilities have also been found here, along with various materials, tools, and objects made of ceramic and metal.

    It is free to walk around the trail, and in summer they have a museum that you can visit.

    Nesseby Church

    Historic Church

    Nesseby Church is from 1858 and is the only wooden church in Eastern Finnmark that was not destroyed by the Nazis during World War II. Parts of the inventory are from the 17th and 18th centuries and some come from other churches. For example, the altarpiece is baroque and comes from the old Kiberg Church.

    Today the church is relatively the same as when it was built.

    Outside the church is Nesseby’s oldest building: an old log cabin. It was moved here in 1746 ad the door is from the 17th century and probably originates from the time that the church stood on Vadsø.

    There is a legend as to why Nesseby Church was saved. Sverre Raddum was the parish priest here during the war. He was a big, strong and rugged fellow, and known to be a tough guy. When the Germans were going to burn Nesseby Church, he stood on the steps and waited for them with the priests collar around his neck, and did not let them in. In German, he told them: “If there is someone who goes to church or a house of worship with evil thoughts, then they are guaranteed to be punished by higher powers”. The Germans immediately gave up bruning the church. Raddum saved his church.

    Gornitak Rasteplass

    Rest Area

    Gornitak (Sámi: Gorgŋetak) means ascent. This rest area lies on the Varangerfjord close into a mountainside under a high firmament and with a view to the sea in the east. The service facilities are housed in an old, restored stone building that served as an ammunitions store during the Second World War.

    Varangerbotn

    Village

    Varangerbotn is a small village that is the administrative centre of Nesseby. The population is around 341. In Varanger you can visit the Varanger Sami Museum, a museum for the history and culture of the Sami in Varangerbotn. The museum presents the Sea Sami history, Sami prehistory, and contemporary Sami culture.

    Next Drive

    Varangerbotn to Berlevåg

    Follow this isolated drive from Varangerbotn to Berlevåg in Finnmark. 

  • Drive it Yourself: Kirkenes to Vardø via the E6 and E75

    Drive it Yourself: Kirkenes to Vardø on the E6 and E75

    Here’s my guide to the drive from Kirkenes to Vardø on the E75. Looking for a drive that will take you through the rugged Eastern Finnmark? To be honest, when I did this drive I had it planned as more of a “A to B” type of drive. I wasn’t expecting the scenery to be so incredible! The drive on the E6 from Kirkenes to Varangerbotn is so rocky and wild, while the E75 becomes flat and barren. This drive is incredible.

    Part of this drive does make up the Varanger Tourist Road, but I have decided to write that as a separate article. For this article, I wanted to focus on this drive as though it were just a regular highway. Enjoy!

    In this article...

    Download this Guide

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    Online Guide

    Downloadable Guide

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    Kirkenes to Vardø via the E6 and E75

    Kirkenes

    This drive begins in Kirkenes, which is one of the easternmost cities in Norway. It has a fascinating war and cultural history and is worth spending some time in.

    Russian border

    Border crossing/detour

    It is possible to drive to the Russian border, but you cannot cross the border into Russia. You will see signs pointing to Murmansk, which is approximately 255km (158 miles), or a 3 hour drive, away. On the border is a souvenir shop, restrooms, and signs pointing to Russia that you can take photos of. 

    Bjørnevatn

    Town

    The community of Bjørnevatn, also known as ‘the mining town’, has been of strategic importance for the development of Kirkenes. The mine is Europe’s largest open-cast mine and opened in 1906. It has since closed down. The mine did reopen in 2009, but shut again in 2015 due to lower costs from other countries. Today around 2,500 people live in Bjørnevatn.

    Garrison Sør-Varanger

    Military Barracks

    The garrison in Sør-Varanger is a military unit based at Høybuktmoen. The departments main task is to patrol and monitor the Norwegian-Russian border. The garrison consists mainly of conscripted soldiers, and there are 400 new conscripts every six months. They mostly tell tourists when they are wandering into Russia, but another goal is to monitor Russian activity on the border.

    Kirkenes Airport

    Airport

    Kirkenes was originally built as a military air station by the Luftwaffe during World War II. The airport reopened for civilians in 1963 with a new terminal and extended runway.

    The airport has direct flights to Oslo and Tromsø through SAS and Norwegian, as well as Widerøe flights to Vadsø and other small coastal communities. 

    Neiden

    Village

    Neiden is regarded as the centre of Eastern Sami culture in Norway and a large proportion of the population are of Finnish descent.

     A large part of the population are Skolt Sami, which is the Orthodox Sami. In town is the Skolt Sami Museum from 2017, which is trying to preserve and present Skolt Sami culture. They also have an outdoor museum with preserved buildings from an old Skolt Sami settlement. It includes St. Georges Chapel, a Russian Orthodox chapel that was built in 1565.

    The Skolt Sami are a unique Sami group. They are more closely related to the Russians compared to the Finns or Norwegians and are regarded as a minority group amongst the Sami. They have been more severely impacted by land borders and country regulations than other Sami groups and are marked by high unemployment and low literacy rates. The Skolt Sami language is considered highly endangered and was only written down in 1992.

    There is a settlement called Neiden on the Norwegian and the Finnish side. The area used to be one settlement for the Skolt Sami, but when the borders were laid out in the 1850s they were separated. When the area was divided up, Neiden was forced to split across the countries.

    Neiden also has Neiden Chapel – built in 1902 as a Norwegian ‘dragestil’ (dragon style) church to symbolise the Norwegian state sovereignty in the area. It is a Lutheran church and is well worth seeing. The Norwegian government invited Norwegian settlers to the area, building the Lutheran church to counterbalance the Orthodox chapel.

    Skolt Sami Museum

    Museum

    The Skolt Sami museum is a cultural history museum dedicated to the Eastern Sami, or the Skolt Sami.

    Visit their website here: https://dvmv.no/en/vv-skoltesamisk-muse/avv-skoltesami-museum/

    Bugøyfjord
    Village

    Bugøyfjord is a small village along the Varangerfjord. It was a predominantly Sami community until the Kven people arrived in the 1860s. It was one of the first villages to be burned to the ground by Germans during the retreat in 1944.

    In the village is a memorial marker for John Savio. He is the first Sami person to have his own exhibition in the National Gallery in Oslo. He didn’t achieve fame during his life, but since his death has been recognised as one of the greatest Sami artists. He is also the only Sami artist to make a name for himself before World War II. He worked primarily in wood cuts.

    Nesseby Municipality

    Nesseby is a small municipality located at the isthmus between the Varangerfjord and the Tana River at the entrance to the Varanger peninsula. The population lives in small settlements along the fjord and the Varangerhalvøya National Park is partly located in the park. The municipality is known for its interesting birdlife and also its tundra with areas of bog and marsh.

    Today the municipality is known as Unjárga-Nesseby, reflecting the Sami community who live here. Nesseby was the second municipality in Norway to get a Sami name. Most of the inhabitants are Sami and Sami is being taught as the first language in schools. In historic times, reindeer used to cross this area as part of their annual migration.

    This led the Sami to coming into the area. The area between Skippagurra and Varangerbotn is full of archaeological finds from different periods.

    The coat-of-arms represents a cloudberry plant.

    The municipality is the birthplace of Isak Saba, the first Sami to be elected to the Norwegian parliament.

    Bugøynes

    Village/Detour

    Bugøynes was established by Finnish immigrants in the 19th century. They had left their own country due to political unrest and poor living conditions, and came to Norway with their experience in agriculture. They also quickly learned the knowledge of fjord fishing. The Finns also brought their religious traditions with them – a conservative Christian movement known as Læstadianism. It still holds a firm footing in the village.

    The village was saved from the destruction of World War II, so the Finnish architecture has been preserved. The Finnish influence is still strong here, and most of the people living here are of Finnish descent and have Finnish names.

    Bugøynes is around a 15-20 minute detour off the E6, but is well worth it. 

    Varangerbotn

    Village

    Varangerbotn is a small village that is the administrative centre of Nesseby. The population is around 341. In Varanger you can visit the Varanger Sami Museum, a museum for the history and culture of the Sami in Varangerbotn. The museum presents the Sea Sami history, Sami prehistory, and contemporary Sami culture.

    E6 & E75 junction

    Roundabout

    This is where the E6 and the E75 separate. The E75 continues onto the Varanger peninsula towards Vardø, while the E6 goes towards Tana Bru and Lakselv. The roundabout in town marks the beginning the National Tourist Road for Varanger, one of Norway’s 18 national tourist roads. I cover the tourist road in a separate article.

    Vadsø Municipality

    Vadsø municipality is named after the town of Vadsø that we will soon be driving through. The coat-of-arms shows a reindeer as reindeer husbandry is common for the municipality and of great economic importance, especially for the Sami people.

    The municipality spreads across the southern coast of the Varanger peninsula. There are trees here as this part of the peninsula is sheltered from the sea, but the tree line is at around 200 metres above sea level.

    Vestre Jakobselv

    Village

    Vestre Jakobselv is a small village with around 500 people living here. It has a primary and secondary school. The village is popular for its salmon fishing as the Jakobselva river has its outlet here.

    Vadsø

    The only major town we drive through is Vadsø. There is a lot worth seeing here, so browse our separate travel guide page below. 

    Ekkerøy

    Village

    There has been settlement on Ekkerøy since at least the Middle Ages, and finds from the Viking Age have been found there. However, it is not known if Vikings settled there or if they traded there.

    Ekkerøy was an island until 1750, but now there is a land connection to the mainland. Ekkerøy was built up as a fishing village and at its peak had several landing piers, shops, a school, shrimp factory, fish oil processing plant, and dried fish racks. There were 270 people living there; today there are less than 50.

    Parts of Ekkerøy have been declared a nature reserve and the island also has a small bird cliff. In the breeding season, which is from May to September, the cliffs may be home to as many as 20,000 kittiwake pairs.

    The settlement of Ekkerøy was not destroyed during World War II. The well-preserved fish factory is now a museum with warehouses, a cod liver oil steamer, an old shop and an authentically furnished traders residence.

    Skallelv

    Village

    Skallelv was originally one of the several purely Finnish communities in the area, populated at the end of the 19th century. The local people were known as Kvens, the North-Norwegian name for people of Norwegian-Finnish descent. Skallelv is one of the few remaining areas with buildings that were constructed before World War II. The oldest wooden houses here are from before 1860.

    Vardø Municipality

    Vardø municipality is one of the first municipalities to be established in Northern Norway. The coat-of-arms is from 1898 and represents the sunshine, fishing boats, the ocean, and a large cod. In the chief is the year of the towns founding, 1789, along with the words “Vardöensis Insignia Urbis” which means “the seal of the town of Vardø”. In the lower part of the arms is the town motto “Cedant Tenebræ Soli”, meaning “Darkness shall give way to the sun”.

    Several Stone Age sites as well as sites dating from the Sami Iron Age have been found here. Vardø became a Norwegian settlement in the medieval period, and the first church was built here in 1307.

    Fishing and seafood processing are Vardø’s major sources of income. The municipality also has large seabird colonies on the islands of Hornøya and Reinøya.

    Komagvær

    Village

    Komagvær is one of the main gateways to the Varanger National Park, with a gravel road leaving from the town into the park. In the valley are many types of birds, including the Arctic Skua.

    Kiberg

    Village

    Kiberg was one of the largest fishing communities in the area during the 16th and 17th centuries, and was important during the Pomor Trade era. Kiberg is still important for fishing.

    Kiberg was of strategic importance during World War II. The geographical proximity to the Soviet Union brought Russian and Norwegian people together. After the occupation of Norway, many locals went to the Soviet Union. Some returned and worked for the Soviet military intelligence services, with as many as 45 partisans in Kiberg.

    Their most important task was to pass on radio communications about the German shipping fleet. It has been estimated that around 80 German merchant ships were sunk on their way to Kirkenes due to the partisans passing on information. Around half the partisans were killed or executed during the war.

    Vardø Tunnel

    Tunnel

    The Vardø Tunnel is a subsea road tunnel stretching 2.8km (9,400 ft) under the Bussesundet strait that connects the island of Vardøya to the mainland. The tunnel reaches a depth of 88m (289ft) and was opened in 1983.

    Vardø

    This drive finishes in Vardø, Norway’s easternmost city. Vardø is an important historic city and a fantastic place to base yourself while in Eastern Finnmark. 

    Next Drive

    Varanger Tourist Road

    Follow the Varanger Tourist Road from Hamningberg to Varangerbotn via Vardø and Vadsø. 

  • Oslo’s Historic City Centre: The Ruins of Gamle Oslo

    Walking around Gamle Oslo

    One of my favourite places to walk in Oslo is around the neighbourhood of Gamle Oslo. Located between the modern ‘Barcode’ district and the scenic Ekeberg Sculpture Park, Gamle Oslo is a mixed bag of a neighbourhood. It has scattered apartment buildings, small shops and cafes, is close to the multicultural Grønland neighbourhood (see my separate walk on that here) and is currently a bit of a construction site thanks to the railway and tram lines going through it.

    If you are looking for somewhere a little more ‘off the beaten path’, I can’t recommend Gamle Oslo enough. The ruins are interesting to walk around, and it makes for a nice walk away from the hustle and bustle of the city centre.

    Here’s my guide to the various remains at Gamle Oslo.

    In this article...

    Oslo's History (A Brief Overview)

    If you are looking for a detailed overview of Oslo’s city history, I would recommend reading my separate article (click here). But, in the context of Gamle Oslo, here is a short overview.

    Basically, Gamle Oslo is the place where the first settlement of Oslo was. According to the Icelandic Sagas, Oslo was founded by King Harald Hardråde around the year 1050 because of the good supplies and close proximity to the big rival, Denmark. However, the settlement has been excavated and remains back to the 9th century have been found. Oslo was likely an urban centre by the end of the Viking Age.

    Oslo was an important port and marketplace. It was also the centre of power and religion for Eastern Norway and stood as a base for a number of Norwegian Kings. Because of this, King Håkon V moved the capital from Bergen to Oslo in 1314, building Akershus Fortress and initiating a number of important construction projects in Oslo town centre, such as the stone cathedrals (they were previously wooden), the new royal court, and the bishop’s residence. Dominican and Franciscan monasteries were constructed in the town.

    Oslo’s decline began around the time of the Black Death and subsequent Kalmar Union. By the time of the Reformation, the city was in disrepair. The Reformation also broke the independence of the Norwegian Church and its position as a factor of economic power, and it strengthened Denmark’s control over Norway. Some buildings in Oslo remained important, such as Akershus Fortress, but the town was less so.

    The end of Oslo’s old town was in 1624, when a large fire swept through the town. It was common for medieval towns to have fire; after all, they were dense wooden settlements and people depended on fire for cooking, heating and lighting. It is believed that Oslo had 18 city fires between 1080 and 1567, and the city was rebuilt just as many times on the same site, where the cellars and foundations remained in tact. The fire of 1624 destroyed most of the residential buildings. The contents of the Hallvard Cathedral were destroyed, though the stone walls remained. Oslo Hospital. Oslo’s Bishop’s Residence and the Oslo Cathedral School all survived the fire.

    The Danish King Christian IV decided that rather than rebuilding the city, it should be moved west closer to Akershus Fortress. Residents were given plots of land for free and the new buildings were to be constructed of stone (they ended up being constructed in wood, leading to more fires). The new city was to be called Christiania, after the King. I have a self-guided walk for Christian IV’s Oslo, which you can read by clicking here.

    What happened to the old town? Not much. Parts of it were converted to agricultural land for farmers, while others sat in ruins for over one hundred years. The interest in the old town only came in the late 19th/early 20th centuries, when the first excavations were carried out. 

    Today much of the area has been heritage-protected and converted into park area, while some of the ruins remain under the modern roads and apartments. There is work now on restoring and preserving more of the ruins, but it’s still an ongoing conversation in Oslo. 

    Defining Gamle Oslo

    Today the ruins are located in the neighbourhood Gamle Oslo and are roughly bound by Hovinbekken in the north, the original course of the Alna River in the south and east, and the waterfront at the Medieval Park in the west. The Franciscan monastery (partly covered by Gamlebyen church and Oslo Hospital) just east of Alna is also considered part of the medieval town.

    Sites Around Gamle Oslo

    The Medieval Park

    Middelalderparken

    The walk begins at the Medieval Park, which is located just across from the Barcode modern construction buildings. The park opened in 2000 after a large excavation project, and the waterfront was recreated to represent where the original waterfront of Oslo would’ve been. 

    Today development in the area is prohibited due to ruins and cultural layers above and below the ground.

    The Alna River had its outlet where the southern side of the park is located today. In connection with the construction of the Follobanen, which opened in December 2022, the river will again be diverted here.

    It is possible to walk along the waterfront. There are two ruins here of particular interest. 

    Mariakirken

    St. Mary's Church

    Like almost all the churches at Gamle Oslo, St. Mary’s Church was probably first built as a small wooden church around the 11th century. Also like the other churches, it was rebuilt as a stone church. 

    St. Mary’s was expanded two more times: in the 13th century with the construction of a Gothic choir and then again int he 14th century with brick extensions. After its final renovation, it was believed to have been one of the most magnificent churches in Norway.

    The church had an important role in the function of Norway’s national government up until the Reformation. The church was the chancellor for the Kingdom of Norway and keeper of the great seal. The chancellor was the only permanent institution in the national government with a seat in Norway and functioned as state administration in medieval Norway. The clergy of St. Mary’s had a high rank in the worldly aristocracy from 1300. 

    Additionally, some of the Norwegian Royals were buried here, such as King Håkon V (who moved the capital to Oslo) and Queen Eufemia. This was also the church where they married. 

    The church was set on fire by the Swedes in connection with an attack in 1523, and by the time of the Reformation the church was so dilapidated that it could not be repaired. It was demolished in 1542 and the land was used for agriculture.

    Excavations of the church were carried out in 1867, 1935 and 1961. 

    Kongsgården

    Royal Residence of Oslo

    Hidden behind the brick building are the remains of the Oslo Royal Residence. Archaeological excavations show that the buildings were constructed around the time of King Harald Hardråde, who founded Oslo. It was likely a wooden building but was converted to a stone one under King Håkon V. 

    Remains of a circular moat have been interpreted as a type of fortification similar to ones found in France and the British Isles. German and English coins dated from between 1040 and 1060 were found in the sandy banks of the moat. 

    Kongsgården was used until the Late Middle Ages but fell into disrepair as Akershus Fortress became the main administrative centre and royal residence. 

    Make your way back up to the main road after this. The rest of the ruins are located within close proximity of Oslo Torg. 

    Saxegården

    Manor House

    Tucked away behind the apartment buildings is a small wooden house. This is Saxegården, a manor house that can be traced back to the medieval times. Beneath half the house is a vaulted stone cellar from the late Middle Ages. The property is one of the few medieval manor houses in Oslo where the location can be determined with 100% certainty. it is named after the Saxe family, a Norwegian noble family. The current wooden building is from around the year 1800. 

    Clemenskirken

    Clements Church

    Clemens Church is likely one of the first churches to be constructed in Oslo as it is believed that Oslo’s first urban structure began around where the church stood. The oldest avenue in Oslo was called Clemensallmenningen. It is believed that the Danish King Harald Bluetooth (yes, that Bluetooth) constructed the church. He was Denmark’s first real King and had Oslo as a base for missionary and military advances in Norway. 

    Several Scandinavian churches were dedicated to the patron saint of seafarers, St. Clemens. The original church was constructed in wood, but was replaced as a stone building around the year 1100.

    The layout of the church is unique: it is one of the very few churches in Norway with a two nave ground plan. Remains of what is one of Norway’s oldest cemeteries have been found under and around the church, with the oldest graves being from around 980 AD. This suggests that there was a well-established Christian community around the year 1000. 

    The church went out of use after the Reformation and was left in ruins. 

    Bispegata

    Street

    This is where the medieval avenue called Bispeallmenningen ran. During excavations in 1954, the original street was found in multiple layers between 1.5 metres and 4 metres below the current surface, and three wooden bridges were found. 

    Oslo Ladegård

    Oslo Bishop's Residence

    During the Middle Ages, Oslo Ladegård was the residence of the bishop. It was one of the city’s most important political centres of gravity until the Reformation removed power from the Church. 

    The current house is from 1725 but is built on the remains of a manor house from earlier times. This is where King James of Scotland (or James I of England) and Princess Anna were married in 1589. In the basement are remains of the bishop’s residence from the 13th century. 

    Oslo Torg

    Oslo Square

    The large road junction is where the site of Oslo Torg stood. It was the medieval city’s Roman Forum and meeting place for the King and his men. It is where Oslo’s earliest court stood. 

    It is believed that Oslo Torg was triangular, similar to the medieval square in Lund’s old town in Sweden. 

    The main function of the square was as a market. Goods from the port would be brought up here. Additionally, farmer’s from around Oslo would come here to sell their goods. Food was primarily traded, such as grain, flour, butter, cheese, vegetables, fish, and products from domestic animals. There was also toilet paper (which back then was moss), cotton wool, wooden tools, and other items for the home. Foreign retailers also came here, such as the Hanseatic League. 

    Oslo Torg was also the site of Norway’s only winter market, which was held every year at Lent. 

    The position of the market began to disappear in the 18th century as other roads were being constructed. In the 1960s, a six-lane motorway was built over the square, and now the entire square and parts of the bishops castle are underneath the motorway. 

    Minneparken

    Memorial Park

    Now we’ll visit Minneparken, which is where a number of ruins from Oslo are located. 

    Hallvardskatedralen

    St. Hallvard Cathedral

    It is believed that King Sigurd Jorsdalfare began construction of the cathedral in the early 12th century. The cathedral is named after Oslo’s patron saint Hallvard, who was shot when he tried to save an innocent, pregnant woman accused of theft. The body of St. Hallvard was moved from its original location at Lier and enshrined in a silver casket that was placed on the high altar. 

    The most important parts of the church were completed in 1130, when King Sigurd was buried in the south wall of the choir. 

    Hallvard Cathedral was Eastern Norway’s religious centre for over 500 years. It was the coronation church, royal wedding church, royal burial chapel, and one of Scandinavia’s most visited pilgrimage destinations. 

    The style of the cathedral was unique. The builders took inspiration from the south and east of Europe, and it’s believed the present-day Gamle Aker Church was modelled after Hallvard Cathedral. 

    After the fire of 1624, Hallvard Cathedral was still standing and must’ve been in good condition as it remained as the main church for Eastern Norway until 1639, when the Holy Trinity Church in the new part of Oslo was completed. After this, Hallvard Cathedral fell into disrepair and in 1696 was demolished. It now became a quarry for Akershus Fortress, while some of the stone was used in the construction of Oslo Cathedral. One of the stones from Hallvard Cathedral can be seen on the corner of the tower of Oslo Cathedral today. Additionally, two of Oslo Cathedral’s four bells are from Hallvard Cathedral. Some items from the cathedral have been preserved in museums. For example, in the University of Oslo’s Antiquity Collection there is an altar cross from the 13th century. 

    In the 1770s, the gravestones (which dated from 1130 to 1660) were removed as filling material and road surface.

    The first excavation took place in 1835. At the beginning of the 1920s, the whole ruin came to light. However, in the 1960s part of the cathedral was covered by concrete to allow for the expansion of Bispegata. 

    Olavsklosteret

    St. Olav Monastery

    Located next to the ruins of the Hallvard Cathedral is the Olav Monastery. The monastery was built in 1240 next to the Olav Church. They had a herb garden north of the monastery and a pond, both of which were restored in 1929. After the Reformation, the monastery was converted to a bishop’s residence.

    The current Oslo bishopric is located in the building built on the eastern ruins. The western ruins were only uncovered in the 1950s. 

    Korskirken

    Cross Church

    The last ruins in Minneparken are of Korskirken, a small parish church located on the northern boundary of Oslo. It is not known when the church was built and it is not mentioned in written documents about a famous battle in Oslo in 1240. However, in 1989 a rune stick was found dating to the first half of the 13th century, and it mentions Korskirken. 

    A Little Further Away...

    If you want to explore more of Old Oslo, there are more remains scattered around the neighbourhood. Here they are. 

    Nonneseter Klosteret

    Nonneseter Monastery

    Nonneseter Monastery was constructed around 1150 and was a Benedictine convent for nuns dedicated to the Holy Mary. The monastery was mentioned for the first time in 1161. Snorre Sturlason refers to the monastery in Håkon Herdebrei’s saga when he describes the Battle of Ekeberg.

    Nonnester Monastery was one of the largest landowners in Norway, owning 272 farms in Eastern Norway. The monastery existed for some time after the Reformation, but it was confiscated in 1547 and given to Akershus Fortress. It eventually fell into disrepair and was demolished in 1616.

    The remains were discovered when the building at Scheiwgaards gate 50 was built in 1887.

    Today the remains of the monastery can be found under the ground beneath the properties at Schweigaards gate 55 and Grønlandsleiret 73.

    Oslo Hospital

    This is the site of Norway’s oldest hospital. However, it didn’t start out as a hospital. This site was originally a Franciscan monastery that was established here under King Håkon V. 

    After the Reformation, the monastery was handed over to the city and turned into a hospital. The hospital operation was based on the work of the Franciscans: the Gray Friars carried out targeted care work for lepers and others of the city’s weakest. It eventually became a psychiatric hospital and remained as such until 2018, when it closed. 

    The buildings burned in 1567, and the monastery church remained standing until 1794. It was then replaced by the Gamlebyen church, which was built partly on top of the ruins of the old church. 

    The oldest building on the property is the Gråsteinbygningen (Grey Stone Building), which was erected in 1737 using several types of stone from Ekebrg, including limestone, clay, slate and gneiss. 

    Gamlebygen Church is a privately owned church located on the property. The first church was built here at the end of the 13th century and was one of the first buildings in Oslo to be built of brick. After the Reformation, the church was also converted into a hospital. The church was destroyed by Swedes in 1567 and has since been rebuilt many times. The last time it was rebuilt was in 1939. 

    Galgeberg

    Gallows Hill

    Just north of Gamle Oslo is the neighbourhood Galgeberg. This name gives away what it used to be – Gallows Hill. In the Middle Ages, the area was a place for public executions and the gallows stood here. 

    The road the gallows stood on was part of the most important road network out of Oslo towards the north. 

    The gallows stood in a courtyard where the residential complex Galgeberg 3 is. The flagpole marks the specific spot. 

    Close by is a small street called Justiskroken, which is believed to have been where the executioner lived. A small wooden house stands here and is from the middle of the 18th century.

    You can read about the last execution of Galgeberg here: https://www.dagsavisen.no/oslo/byhistorie/2021/10/08/da-det-siste-hodet-rullet-pa-galgeberg/