Emma

Hey! My name is Emma. I'm from Australia but have lived in Bergen, Norway, for the last eight years. I work as a local guide and tour leader for all over Northern Europe. The Hidden North is an online travel guide I have made to help you plan your own visit here.

  • Kristiansund, Molde, National Tourist Roads, Road-trips

    Drive it Yourself: The Atlantic Road

    Drive it Yourself: The Atlantic Road

    The Atlantic Road is incredibly famous. I mean, whenever you see a list of the top things to do in Norway, it’s right up there.

    In Norway, it has earned the title of ‘Construction of the Century in Norway 1905-2005’. The UK’s Guardian once crowned it as the world’s best road-trip. Norway’s Aftenposten called it the ‘Most Beautiful Car Journey’. Lonely Planet called it the ‘World’s Best Place to Mend a Broken Heart’. The television program Fifth Gear named it the World’s Best for Car Testing.

    Yeah, the Atlantic Road is pretty great. But it’s also worth keeping in mind that the stretch of road they are talking about is only 8km (5 mi) long. Yes, really. It’s very short. Blink and you miss it. So, does that make it worth it?

    Absolutely! If you make a trip out of the whole drive between Kristiansund and Molde, you get to see spectacular coastline. You pass the famous Hustadvika stretch of sea, historic fishing villages, and famous mountain peaks. As long as you don’t surround your hype only on the famous bit of road, the Atlantic Road is excellent.

    Beyond the road, there are plenty of detours to be made: there’s the Kvernes and Rødven stave churches nearby, or you can take the ferry from Molde to Åndalsnes and do the Trollstigen Scenic Road – that’s what we did!

    We did the Atlantic Road in September 2020. The weather was horrible, and while I thought about simply not uploading the video, I think it’s important to show. After all, the west coast is known for this kind of weather and you may just get a day like this when you visit.

    Here’s my guide to the Atlantic Road, including what to see and do, plus some worthy detours, along the way. I do the trip from Kristiansund to Molde, but this drive can easily be reversed.

    In this article...

    Download this Guide

    All of our guides can be downloaded via our online store. 

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

    View at the Store

    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Information about facilities along the way

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the region & towns
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Facilities including supermarkets, toilets, petrol, hotels, cafes, restaurants with addresses.

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    Visit Our YouTube Channel

    The drive: The Atlantic Road

    Kristiansund

    This drive begins in Kristiansund. Kristiansund is a seaside city built across four islands. 

    Kristiansund Travel Guide

    Kvernes Stave Church

    Stave Church/Detour

    Kvernes Stave Church is one of Norway’s 28 remaining stave churches. The church is not far from the beginning of the Atlantic Road, but it is a bit of a detour. 

    As you’re driving along the Fv64 towards the Atlantic Road, you’ll reach a town called Bruhagen. There will be a left-hand turn with a brown tourist sign saying stave church – follow that. After 9km, you will be at Kvernes. 

    To get back to the Atlantic Road, just keep following the road you took – it loops around the island you are on and it’s quicker to not go all the way back and rejoin the Fv64.

    Click here to read about Kvernes Stave Church.

    Geitøya

    Island

    Geitøya (Goat Island) is the first main island you’ll cross onto. Almost immediately after crossing onto the island, there’s a large parking lot if you want to take photos. However, the better parking lot is on the other side of the island – just a couple minutes drive.

    This is where you’ll get the famous photo of the Atlantic Road.

    The first parking lot you’ll see is for the ferry to Håholmen – there’s not much to take photos of from here!

    Otherwise, Geitøya has many short walks along the shore and up on the hills that provide rewarding views. You can also take a ferry to the historic Håholmen fishing village. Håholmen has been a fishing community since the beginning of the 1700s. Here, they primarily produced stockfish. Today the village is a large hotel complex. Don’t let that scare you off! The fisherman’s cottages have been transformed into rental properties. They are well preserved and very unique.

    The owner of Håholmen is Ragnar Thorseth, a famous Norwegian explorer and author. He rowed from Måløy on the west coast to the Shetland Islands in 1969, following the same route that the Vikings did. In 1975 he spent five months crossing the Atlantic, again following the same route as the Vikings. Thorseth was captain on the Viking ship Gaia that sailed from Norway to New York in 1991.
    Learn more about Håholmen

    Famous Viewpoint

    Viewpoint

    The second large parking lot on Geitøya is perfect for photos. There are many places to park, but keep in mind they may fill up in summer. From the parking lot, it’s a couple minutes walk to the viewpoint for the bridge. If you choose to walk around the site, you can see one of the famous sculptures of the Atlantic Road: the plastic crab (plastkrabben).

    The sculpture is supposed to reflect on the amount of plastic in the sea. You can see images of it here.

    There is a path all around the island. It looks just like my picture above. You can continue following it past the viewpoint to reach the plastic crab and get more photos of the island.

    Parking here is free. According to the tourist road website, there’s a cafe here in the summer months. It’s open weekdays from 1 June -31. August from 12pm – 4pm and on weekends from 11am – 5pm. There are toilets open all year round.
    You can view their page here. 

    Hustadvika Coastline

    Coastline

    Hustadvika is a municipality located between the traditional districts of Nordmøre and Romsdal.

    The municipality is named after the 19km (12 mi) long Hustadvika coastline. The coat of arms depict a fish and a plow, representing the two main industries: fishing and agriculture.

    Hustadvika sits on the northwestern end of the Romsdal peninsula along the Hustadvika shorline. There are a number of small islands here, and the terrain is either marshy or very rocky. Most people live on beaches along the coast.

    The Hustadvika shoreline is notorious as one of the most dangerous stretches of sea along the Norwegian coast. If you’ve done it on the coastal ferry (Hurtigruten), you probably know what I’m talking about. It is a 10 nautical mile (18.5km) stretch of open sea and is part of the shipping lane between Bud and Kristiansund. Unlike most of the Norwegian coast, there are no islands or skerries sheltering waves. The area is shallow and has many islands and reefs, so ships have to go outside in the open ocean. This creates a very bumpy ride if you are on Hurtigruten on a stormy day. It’s also why the weather on the Atlantic Road is often not so great – there’s nothing protecting the road from the open sea.

    There’s a photo stop for Hustavika later on in the drive. 

    Other Side

    Viewpoint

    If you are unable to get parking, just head across the bridge and park on the other side. The views are just as good, but there’s no cafe or plastic crab keeping people parked for long periods of time.

    The famous bridge is called Steinsundbrua (Steinsund Bridge). You can view the national tourist road website about it here. 

    End of the Road

    Viewpoint

    When you see the brown sign saying “Hågå 400m” – that’s the end of the bridge/island part of the Atlantic Road. Yes, it’s that short. But there’s still so much more to see. So let’s keep going!

    Hågå

    Walking Trail

    Håga is one of the roadside attractions you can spend some time at. It’s a walking path that leads to the coast, and at the other end is a sculpture consisting of marble white columns scattered all over the landscape.

    You can view images & more info at the tourist road website here. 

    Farstad

    Town

    Farstad is a small town with a population of 256. It has many facilities here. Farstad is also home to Hustad prison, a former civil defence camp, and the police ATK centre.
    The Farstad Beach is the world’s most northerly sandy beach of the ‘southern type’ and is used for kiting and windsurfing. Here’s a link with more info and pictures of the beach.
    Farstad has access to some hiking trails as well as a coastal walking path. 

    Hustad

    Town

    Hustad is the next little town we drive through.

    Hustad is a small village with a population of around 250.
    It has all the facilities you’d expect of a small town. The surrounding nature provides plenty to do. The Stemshest mountains are to the east, and there are five lakes nearby that are well-stocked with trout. There are numerous hiking trails from Hustad.

    Hustad is a known historic place. It’s mentioned in Bergen in 1329 as Hustodum regarding the land owners. After all, nearby Bud was a historic trading place with Bergen. Hustad is mentioned even earlier than that. In the Norse Sagas by Snoore Sturlasson (Heimskringla), Øystein Magnusson, who was the King of Norway in 1103-1123, died during a stay at the royal estate Stim at Hustad. The location of the royal estate is unknown today.

    Hustad Church

    Hustad Church is a typical 19th century white wooden church. However, there has been an older church here. The earliest existing records of a church date back to 1589, but there was likely a church here as far back as the 12th or 13th century. The church in the 1500s was a stave church. At some point, the stave church deteriorated and a new church was built next to it. In 1646, both churches stood side by side. At some point the stave church was torn down. Later on, the newer church was destroyed by a lightning strike. A new church was built, but it was too small and replaced by the present church.

    Aslaksteinen

    Rock Formation

    Close to Hustad is the Aslaksteinen, a 200m high rock formation that was inhabited more than 2000 years ago. The traces they left behind shows stays for longer periods and that they spent their time cooking and making handicrafts. My kind of hidden rock village!

    In the 1980s, archaeological investigations were carried out. Charcoal, burnt bones and shards from pts were found. Furthermore, an iron knife and several flint pieces that were likely used for fire were found. Archaeologists found ornaments in the form of bronze bracelets dated to the Viking Age.

    Today you can hike to the site. Here’s a link to the hiking trail. There are signs pointing to Aslaksteinen from the main highway. 

    Kjeksa Viewpoint

    Viewpoint

    At this viewpoint you’ll find some picnic tables, an information board about Hustadvika, and some excellent views of the open ocean and coastline. The stop is by the highway, so I recommend pulling over to take some photos. Bud is only a few minutes from here.

    Bud

    Town

    Welcome to Bud!

    A historic fishing village

    Bud is a historic fishing village. The name (pronounced more like bood than the English word bud) comes from the old fishing cabins: a ‘bu’ was a cabin where fishermen would live during the seasonal fishing. The word is found in many places along the coast. For example, the rorbuer are very popular in Lofoten.
    Bud was at its peak during the 14th and 15th centuries. This was during the height of the Hansa period in Bergen, and the demand for fish for export was great. Bud is close to the fishing grounds, and it became a large place for fishing. Until the 17th century, Bud was one of the largest trading places between Bergen and Trondheim.

    The final Norwegian State meeting

    After the death of King Frederick I of Denmark in 1533, there was a push for Norway to leave the Kalmar Union (between the three Scandi countries). On top of that, Denmark was pushing for the Protestant Reformation in Norway, and the Catholic country didn’t want that.

    The archbishop Olav Engelbrektsson of Nidaros called the meeting with the Norwegian state committee as he felt the Catholic Church (and Norway as a country) was being threatened by Denmark and the Reformation. Important issues were discussed, but no decisions were made. The attempt for independence failed. The Reformation was introduced, the Norwegian state committee was dissolved, and Norway became further incorporated into the Danish state. This was the final blow for any hope of an independent Norway. The council was the last of its kind in Norway for 270 years.

    There is a monument in town to commemorate the meeting. It was removed by German occupying forces in 1941, but was put back in 1947.

    World War II

    Bud was occupied during World War II and became an important part of the Germans’ Atlantic Wall along the west coast of Europe. The Ergan coastal fortifications were built near Bud. They were the largest built during the war in Norway by Germans. In addition to 350 German troops, there were 150 Russian and Polish prisoners of war in Bud during the war.
    The goal of the fortifications was to monitor the busy Hustadvika shipping lane and the approach to the towns of Ålesund, Molde and Kristiansund.

    It is possible to visit the remains of the fort today. It’s open as a museum during the summer months. You can find info here. 
    Outside Bud Church is a memorial to the locals who passed away during World War II. 

    Bud Today

    Today Bud is still an active fishing village, and you can see the drying racks along the shoreline. There are some excellent seafood restaurants, shops, and a coastal museum here.
    If you want to stretch your legs, you can walk along the coastal path that circles around the village. Along the way are information boards explaining Bud’s history. There are also great views to the village and the sea.

    Molde

    The Atlantic Road ends in Molde, a beautiful town. You can find more information about Molde at the Hidden North travel guide. 

    Molde Travel Guide

    Continue the drive

    Trollstigen Tourist Road

    Take the ferry from Molde across the fjord and begin the most famous tourist road in the country (besides the Atlantic Road, of course). 

    Trollstigen Tourist Road

    Previous Route

    Oppdal to Kristiansund

    Take a secret highway through a dramatic valley to Kristiansund. 

    Oppdal to Kristiansund

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Kristiansund, Stave Churches

    Why Kvernes Stave Church is Worth a Stop near the Atlantic Road

    Why Kvernes Stave Church is Worth a Stop near the Atlantic Road

    When doing the Atlantic Road, it’s worth knowing that it’s a rather short drive. The best way to enjoy the scenic road is to drive all over the region – not only the famous stretch over the islands. One of the most popular places to head to is Kvernes Stave Church. This is one of three stave churches in the Møre og Romsdal county. It has a fascinating story that came to its grand conclusion in 2020. The church is a short drive from the Kristiansund end of the Atlantic Road, so it’s worth heading here. I visited the church on a very wet and windy day in September 2020. While it was closed to the public, I got to walk around the outside and admire this unique building. Here’s my guide to what Kvernes Stave Church so special.

    In this article...

    The Atlantic Road

    Kvernes Stave Church is located close to the Atlantic Road, one of Norway’s most popular tourist roads. You can find my guide to the Atlantic Road by clicking the link below. 

    The Atlantic Road
    Kristiansund Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    The Earliest Church

    The first church on this site was likely built in the 1300s. In the Middle Ages, there were 53 stave churches in the Møre og Romsdal County, and Kvernes was one of them. The name, kvernes, comes from the Old Norse word hverfa, meaning ‘to turn’. This is in reference to the headland. Kvernes Stave Church stands high on the hill, and it is visible to any boats passing on the fjord. The area around the church is well documented in history and was a wealthy property. There are many heritage monuments (grave fields, the Ting district, the phallic stone, place names like Lunden) that show the importance of the farm here in the Iron Age and early medieval period. The location of a church here supports this.

    Yet, the church we see today is not the original church. That’s where things get interesting.

    When was this church built?

    Until 2020, there was a lot of debate over the age of this church. The original theory was that the stave part of the church (the nave) is from the 14th century, while there are extensions from the 17th century. The dating of the church was unknown, but it was always considered the youngest stave church remaining in the country. Knowledge of the church was largely based on guesswork since most of the archives were destroyed by a fire in 1734.

    The best evidence of the age comes from the epitaph in the nave. It commemorates minister and sawmill owner Anders Erichsen (1575-1662) and his contribution to the church. The epitaph says that he commissioned the construction of the chancel and the baptistry in 1633. The epitaph doesn’t mention anything about the nave, so he might have funded renovations.

    A breakthrough in 2020

    The church made history in 2020. Through dendrochronology, which is the study of the number and width of tree rings to establish the age of building materials, the church was found to be from 1633. The church is unique because the middle of the church is in the stave technique, which was not used in the 17th century. Meanwhile, the extensions are in the more appropriate-of-its-time cog method. Stave churches were Catholic, but in 1536 the Reformation happened, and Norway converted to Lutheranism.

    Stave churches became Lutheran, but new Lutheran churches were not built in the stave style. This is not only because of its Catholic origins but also because the style was outdated. The fact that Kvernes was built 100 years into the new religion and in an outdated method is very unique.

    It’s worth mentioning that the theory that the church was new is not new. The first theory that the church was post-Reformation is from 2010 by stave church researcher Ola Storsletten.

    The epitaph is now seen differently. It’s assumed that Anders Erichsen funded a partial construction of the church, but the church in its entirety is from 1633.

    This makes Kvernes very special. It is the only stave church in Norway built after the Middle Ages and Reformation. Now there is a theory that Grip Stave Church is also post-Reformation. If this is proven to be true, Rødven Stave Church will be the only Middle Ages stave church in the county.

    Architectural Style, or ‘What’s with the Supporting Beams?’

    Kvernes Stave Church is built in the Møre style, which is characterised by those supporting beams you see on either side of the church. The rough sloping beams hold the staves to the ground. The only other church that looks like this is Rødven Stave Church. It’s not known if they are original beams or if they have been added later on.

    So, the beams are a way of reinforcing the church. It could be because the church is exposed to bad weather and needs extra support, or the church was slipping on the ground and needed further support. In any case, it creates a very unique look!

    The Møre type also has intermediate staves in the long walls. In contrast with other stave churches, the Møre churches have roof beams across the nave.

    The church has undergone later renovation. Parts of the church were rebuilt in 1776, and in 1810 the steeple was added.

    Interior Decoration

    Most of the interior decoration is from the 17th century. The walls are richly painted with rosemaling style. There are also some depictions of biblical scenes. The walls were later whitewashed, but efforts have been made in recent years to uncover the original decorations.

    The altarpiece is unique. It’s believed it was made in the Hanseatic city of Lubeck in the 17th century.

    The pulpit is from the 1630s and is of a Dutch character. With this and the Hanseatic links considered, it’s clear this property had links to the international export of dried fish and timber.

    Another unique piece is the 300-year-old ship hanging in the nave. It has Danish flags on it.

    Preserving the Church

    A new church was built for Kvernes in the mid-19th century, and Kvernes Stave Church was no longer used. There were plans to demolish it. Luckily at the last minute, the church was bought by a group of individuals. They didn’t keep it; they donated it as a gift to the Society for the Preservation of Ancient Norwegian Monuments. The Preservation still owns the church today, and it operates as a museum in the summer.

    Visiting the Church

    The church is very well signed from the Atlantic Road. There’s only one road around the island it’s on, so you can’t get lost. There is a large parking area, and the church is a short walk from the parking lot.

    There’s a walking trail around the church where you can pass the cultural sites. Unfortunately, I didn’t go because we had a lot of heavy rain. There are three stave churches in the region: besides Kvernes, you can also visit Rødven south of Molde, or you can visit Grip Stave Church on Grip Island. We went to the first one as it’s easier to get to.

    The new Kvernes Church stands right next to the stave church, like what we saw at Torpo Stave Church.

    Kvernes Stave Church is open in the summer months. Guided tours are available in many languages.

    Close by the church are many signs with detailed information about the church in English, Norwegian and German.

    Close by is the Kvernes Rural Museum, which is an open-air museum with a collection of old farm buildings. The museum represents a 17th-century coastal farm. By the sea is a fisherman’s cabin and some preserved historic boats. The museum also has an archaeological exhibition with finds from the Stone Age Fosna culture, which (if you read into the history of Kristiansund), were some of the first peoples in Norway. Click here for info about the museum.

    Toilets are on the site, but no shops.

    Click here to view opening hours & prices.

    This is all about Kvernes Stave Church! Sure, it’s not as old as the other stave churches. But I think we can agree there’s something special about this church’s story. I hope you get to visit it on your Norwegian adventure.

    The Atlantic Road

    Kvernes Stave Church is located close to the Atlantic Road, one of Norway’s most popular tourist roads. You can find my guide to the Atlantic Road by clicking the link below. 

    The Atlantic Road
    Kristiansund Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide
  • Kristiansund, National Highways, Oppdal, Road-trips

    Norway’s Highways: Highway 70 from Oppdal to Kristiansund

    Norway’s Highways: Highway 70 from Oppdal to Kristiansund

    Follow our guide for the drive from Oppdal to Kristiansund! Kristiansund is typically only visited by people driving on the Alantic Road. Of course, the Atlantic Road is famous for a reason. However, if you’re looking to combine your road-trip with something a little more ‘off the beaten path’ but just as beautiful, I really recommend Highway 70. 

    Highway 70 goes from Oppdal in Central Norway to Kristiansund on the west coast. It connects you to Trondheim and Roros, two places I always recommend visiting. 

    You start at the top of the hills, and eventually wind your way down a steep valley, ending up surrounded by 1000m (3000ft) high mountains. Eventually you reach the fjords, which lead you all the way to the coast.

    Here’s my overview of what to see and do on Highway 70. 

    In this article...

    Download this Guide

    All of our guides can be downloaded via our online store. 

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

    View at the Store

    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Information about facilities along the way

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the region & towns
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Facilities including supermarkets, toilets, petrol, hotels, cafes, restaurants with addresses.

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    Visit Our YouTube Channel

    The drive: Oppdal to Kristiansund

    Oppdal

    This drive begins in Oppdal, a beautiful town surrounded by national parks. It is also located at the junction of the E6 and Highway 70, making it a perfect place to start our road-trip. 

    Oppdal Travel Guide

    Vang Burial Mounds

    Historic Site

    These are the largest burial mounds in Norway: there are at least 700 graves here spanning an area of 100 acres. People were buried here with their precious items between 400 AD and 1000 AD. This means the graves are pre-historic, pre-Christian and Viking graves. What makes this place even better is that it’s largely in tact.

    The area around Oppdal – the major town near Vang burial mounds – was a known wealthy site during the Viking Age and one of the most important places in pre-Christian Norway. 

    Excavations show that Oppdal as in contact with Christianised Ireland during the Viking Age. Many swords have also been found here. All the finds are in the Science Museum in Trondheim.

    I recommend going for a walk around here before starting the drive. There are marked trails and information boards everywhere. Just note – we found there was a lot of sheep poop! It’s a grazing area for sheep as well, so you’ll see and smell them. Clean your shoes before you get back in the car. 

    The site is well marked on Google Maps & there are brown tourist signs leading you there. The road down is paved, narrow, and slightly steep. There is a large carpark but no facilities. 

    Oppdal Church

    Church

    Oppdal Church is a historic church from 1651. There has been a church here ever since Christianity was introduced, and the present church replaced a stave church. As we know, Oppdal was an important place not just during the Viking Age but also during the early years of Christianity – it is situated on the historic pilgrims road. Therefore, it can be assumed that Oppdal Church was very important in the old times.

    It is possible to visit the church.

    Note – just before the turnoff is Håkkåran – the highest point on the highway at 600m (2000ft). 

    Image source

    Trollheimen

    Mountain Range

    Trollheimen is a famous mountain range. It is considered the most varied of all mountain ranges in Norway: the western part are alpine in form, with pointed peaks. Meanwhile, the mountains in the east are less steep with rounded shapes and wide valleys. The park has a unique flora and it is believed Trollheimen was one of the first areas in Norway to be cleared of ice after the last Ice Age.

    There are several traces of people using the mountains as a hunting ground. The hunters made traps for reindeer and are considered to be among the first wave of humans migrating to Norway. If you happen to be hiking near the glaciers in late summer/autumn it’s recommended to keep an eye out for prehistoric artefacts.

    If you plan on taking a detour to Trollheimen, I recommended spending at least one night there: it’s not close enough that you can quickly drive there and back. Additionally, the best views of the mountains are only accessible via hiking.

    Want to see the exact view in the photo? See info on how to get there further below 🙂 

    Resources:

    Lønset

    Village

    Lønset is a small agricultural village with a population of 450. There is a local church here from the early 19th century, though it was built to replace an earlier 18th century church. It has a memorial outside it for the 32 who were killed in the Kletthamranskredet in 1868. This is the largest avalanche in Norwegian history. The main industry is agriculture with 42 active farms, followed by tourism.

    Møre og Romsdal County

    Møre og Romsdal is a county in central-western Norway. The county is made up of three districts: Nordmøre, Sunnmøre and Romsdal. The name of the county represents these regions. We are in Nordmøre. 

    The county is similar to Vestlandet (to the south) and Trøndelag (to the north) in that it has a mild but wet climate thanks to the Gulf Stream and Atlantic Ocean. 

    Agriculture is an important industry, though oil and gas is growing thanks to the Ormen Lange field – the second-largest deposit on the Norwegian shelf. Møre og Romsdal is Norway’s largest fishing county measured in export value, and clipfish is very popular. 

    Today tourism is very important to the region. The county has some of Norway’s most famous destinations, including the national scenic roads Trollstigveien and Atlanterhavsveien. Additionally, Geiranger is one of the largest cruise ship destinations and the Geirangerfjord is on the UNESCO World Heritage list.

    The largest cities in Møre og Romsdal are Ålesund, Molde and Kristiansund. 

    Nordmøre

    Traditional Region

    We have entered the county and are in the Nordmøre traditional region. People first settled here after the last ice age, and findings from the Fosna culture have been found near Kristiansund.

    Nordmøre is mentioned several times in the old Norse saga. It’s believed that it was one of the first petty kingdoms conquered by Harald Fairhair when he was unifying Norway into one country. Nordmøre is also one of the first places Olav Tryggvason and his army christianised on their travels. 

    Åmotan Gorge

    Natural Attraction

    This site has been described as the ‘Niagara of the North’. I’m not sure how accurate that is, but it certainly is quite the site. Åmotan Gorge is an area with steep mountain peaks, moorlands and terraces. This is the place where five rivers meet, creating spectacular waterfalls.

    The parking area is 5km/3 mi off the main highway. Guided walks take place in summer, but the area is well-marked if you want to do it on your own.

    The Gorge is close to Åmoten-Grøvdalen, which is part of the Dovrefjell National Park. 

    Romfo Church

    Church

    There has been a church here since the end of the 16th century, though it has moved a few times due to flooding from the Driva River. The present-day church is from the early 1800s and is built in this, ahem, unique octagonal shape. 

    Inside are some items from the older churches, including an altarpiece from 1713 and a figure of St. Olav from the Catholic times. 

    Leikvin Cultural Heritage Site & Open Air Museum

    Historic Site

    The Leikvin Cultural Heritage Park is a historic site that provides an interesting overview of Sunndal’s history. 

    The park is spread out over a farmstead that was famously lived in by Lady Barbara Arbuthnott (1822-1904) from Scotland. She had visited Sunndal several times with her husband, William Arbuthnott, and in 1868 they bought half the farm here. 

    After she and William divorced, Barbara remained here and lived with a tour guide Oluf Endresen, who managed the farm. She learned Norwegian and became a pioneer in agriculture, importing British pigs and chickens to her farm. She wrote many Norwegian books on chicken breeding. Besides that, she was known as being extravagant and throwing large parties on the farm. She became involved in the local health service and hunting club, having a hunting lodge and local library built. 

    Today the park consists of several interesting sites. The open air museum has a collection of buildings and objects from the old peasant culture in Sunndal, plus a collection of the rich folk art from here. Exhibitions explore British salmon fishing, 10,000 years of reindeer hunting, plus the history of Sunndal. 

    The botanic garden (called Phillipshaugen) is worth seeing. It has a large collection of rhododendrons, plus around 50 species. It’s designed in a British countryside style. 

    Lastly, there is a burial ground here (Løkja). There are over 200 graves with finds from the Roman times until the end of the 10th century. All finds from the graves are at the Science Museum in Trondheim. 

    The museum is open between June and August, with guided tours available. Otherwise, the grounds are free to walk around in all year round. 

    Resources

    Sunndalsøra

    Town

    Welcome to Sunndalsøra, the largest town we’ll visit on the way to Kristiansund!

    Sunndalsøra is located in a beautiful spot. It’s at the mouth of the river Driva, which we’ve been following this entire drive, plus it’s at the beginning of the Sunndalsfjord, which we’ll be visiting next. The town is surrounded by steep mountains reaching heights of 1700m (5600ft).

    Industry

    While Sunndalsøra is a good rest stop, there’s not a whole lot to see. The town is dominated by the aluminium plant, which employs 900 people (total population 4,054). The plant has been operating since 1954 and in 2004 it was modernised to become the largest and one of the most modern aluminium plants in Europe. Aquaculture research, public service and agriculture are other main industries.

    Climate

    The climate of Sunndalsøra is unique. Atlantic lows produce a strong foehn effect in winter. This occurs when there is a strong low located southwest of the coast, bringing mild air from the Atlantic Ocean. The air is further warmed when forced over the mountains, and a dry warm air comes down to the fjord. Sunndalsøra has the national all-time high for all winter months: December with 18.3C (64.9F) (1998), January with 19C (66.2F) (2020) – this was also the warmest winter ever in Scandinavia, and February with 18.9C (66F) (1990).

    Hov Church

    Hov Church is the main church of Sunndalsøra. The church has had a very interesting history.

    The first church was mentioned in 1432, but it burned down in 1647 – it was likely a stave church. A new church was built, but it was built in such poor condition that it collapsed during a storm in 1725. A new church was built, but it was almost completely destroyed in 1727 by snow. So, a new church was built and it survived until 1849, when it was damaged by strong autumn winds. Another church was built, but it was destroyed by strong winds in 1883. The present church is from 1887 and is built on the same site as its predecessors. I don’t know about you, but I think it looks very sturdy today!

    Flåøya

    Peninsula

    Flåøya is a peninsula by the Sunndalsfjord. It’s a popular area where the locals go to spend time outdoors. It’s believed people lived here back in the Iron Age. Back then, it was an island in the middle of the fjord. There are many graves from the migration period to the Viking Age. If you walk around the site, there are information boards in English, Norwegian and German. In summer, you can swim here!

    The parking lot is only 6km / 4 mi from the highway, so that makes it a short detour. However, the best views are done by following the trail, and that can take some time. 

    Ålvundeid Church

    Church

    There has been a church here from at least 1309, according to historical records. The old church was demolished some time before the 1800s, and the new church was built in 1848. It is in an octagonal style. It’s typically not open for visits.

    Ålvundfjord

    Fjord

    Ålvund, or Ålvundfjord, is a small village at the beginning of the Ålvundfjord. Since 2004, it has not been considered an urban settlement by Statistics Norway. Yeah, it’s a small place!

    Tingvoll Municipality

    Welcome to Tingvoll Municipality! This is a small municipality with a scattered population, and we’ll be visiting the main town on this drive.

    The name is very special. Eight or nine centuries ago, Tingvoll was the site of the Nordmøre Ting – hence the name. There was a flat field here, which in Norwegian is voll. It was here that the meetings were held – ting + voll. Ting is best compared to a parliament: representatives from different regions come together to make decisions. Today, the parliament in Norway is still called Ting. Tingvoll is a name found in many place: the Scottish town of Dingwall, the parliament on the Isle of Man is Tynwald, the English town of Thingwall (colonised by the Norwegians), and Thingvellir (Þingvellir) in Iceland.

    It’s believed this is where the Tingvoll Church is today.

    Tingvoll Church

    Historic Church

    Tingvoll Church is one of the oldest stone churches in Norway. It’s well worth taking the two minute detour here to have a look at this gorgeous building.

    Tingvoll Church

    Tingvoll Open Air Museum

    Museum

    Tingvoll Museum is an open-air muesum built on an old farm. The farm itself is ancient, while the museum is from 1954 – that year the farm closed down and the municipality took over.

    The museum is comprised of farm buildings from the mid-19th century. Additional buildings have been moved here, including a workshop, mill, and school building.

    Tingvoll Museum is 1.7km off the main highway. It’s open from 12pm to 4pm during summer, and they have plenty of activities for kids during that time.

    Up-to-date opening hours and practical info can be found here.

    Bergsøya

    Village

    Agriculture and forestry are important industries here. Nearly half of all the employees commute to the neighbouring municipalities, especially Molde.

    Bergsøya has been connected to the mainland via bridge since the 1990s. Before then, it only had a ferry connection. The road we are on is nicknamed “Krifast” – it’s the main road connection between Kristiansund and the mainland. Because of this, it is often a very busy road.

    Frei Church

    Historic Church

    Frei is a fairly well-known island, especially when it comes to Norway’s early history. The early Norwegian kings often came here to take part in hunting, the most known being King Haakon the Good.

    Haakon the Good was also one side in a famous battle that took place here in 955. It’s called the Battle of Rastarkalv. Basically, it was one of several battles between King Haakon and the sons of Eirik Bloodaxe. After Eirik’s death, Harald Greycloak (one of the sons) and his brothers were allied with King Harald Bluetooth of Denmark against King Haakon. They set out to Frei to find Haakon and kill him. Haakon was smart, though, and he had set up a warning system with cairns that would be lit to tell of approaching fleets. Therefore, Haakon knew they were coming. Haakon fooled Eirik’s sons into believing they were outnumbered. The Danes attempted to flee the island, but when they arrived at the beach they realised that their ships had been pushed out to sea. Haakon gained victory and the Danish forces were slaughtered. Woohoo?

    Egil Ullserk, Haakon’s leading man, died in the battle. Today there is a stone monument near the Frei Church to commemorate the battle. 

    You should also visit Frei Church. It’s a very pretty yellow wooden church built in 1897 to replace an older building. However, the first church on Frei was mentioned in 1432. In the middle of the 1600s, it was described as a stave church. Sadly, in 1766 it was struck by lightning. The next church was torn down to be replaced by this one. 

    Frei Church is a short detour off the main highway. It’s located in the town Nedre Frei. 

    Nordlandet

    Island

    Nordlandet is one of the islands where Kristiansund city is located (it’s spread out over three islands). In the city centre area, Nordlandet consists of some old warehouses and homes, plus the Nordlandet church – the church that dominates the Kristiansund skyline.

    Further out, Nordlandet consists of large shops and a shopping mall, plus the Kristiansund Airport. At the airport is a helicopter base for the oil business. Nordlandet is the part of Kristiansund that has seen the most development in the last thirty years.

    It’s important to note that if you want to visit Nordlandet Church or the island, you have to drive all the way over the Rv70 from town – there’s no direct bridge from the city centre. There are ferries for people, though. 

    The picture above is Nordlandet from the city centre. It’s the island to the left – you can see Nordlandet Church. 

    Kristiansund

    Welcome to Kristiansund! You can find a comprehensive overview of Kristiansund via the travel guide below. 

    Kristiansund Travel Guide

    The Previous Drive

    Folldal to Røros

    On the previous day we had driven from Folldal to Røros in Eastern Norway. 

    Folldal to Røros

    The Next Drive

    The Atlantic Road

    On the following day we took one of Norway’s most famous drives, the Atlantic Road. 

    Atlantic Tourist Road

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • History, Hurtigruten, Kristiansund

    From the First People to Klippfisk: the History of Kristiansund

    From the First People to Klippfisk: the History of Kristiansund

    Kristiansund is an important place in Norway. Today it’s associated with the klippfisk (clip fish, dried and salted cod) trade that took place here. And rightly so! Thanks to klippfisk, we have Kristiansund. Still, there’s a lot more to this island city that is worth knowing before you make the trip there. The history of Kristiansund is truly fascinating.

    Here’s my historical overview of Kristiansund. As always, I have relied on books and websites that provide an incredible amount of detail. You can find links to them throughout and at the bottom of this article.

    In this article...

    The E39 Highway

    Kristiansund is located on the E39, the main highway along the west coast. You can find my guide to the E39 by clicking the link below. 

    The E39 Highway
    Kristiansund Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Norway's Coastal Ferry

    Kirkenes is a port of call of Norway’s coastal ferry. Find my guide for the coastal ferry by clicking the link below. 

    Norway's Coastal Ferry

    Kristiansund is the oldest settlement in Norway

    Kristiansund wasn’t always known as Kristiansund. The name came in 1742 when King Christian VI gave the settlement a town charter. The town gets its name from him, but more on that later.

    The first name of Kristiansund is Fosna. It’s generally believed that this place was one of the earliest settlements after the last Ice Age. People likely arrived around 8000BC as Kristiansund (and its surrounds) were one of the first ice-free places in Norway. Additionally, the surrounding sea had lots of food. Additionally, there was lots of stone and flint they could use as weapons and tools.

    Today, the first Norwegian peoples as known as the ‘Fosna culture’. Traces of these peoples were first made in Voldvatnet (Vold Lake) in 1909. Kristiansund isn’t the only place where the Fosna people lived – it’s just where they got their name. Fosna is an umbrella term for the oldest settlements along the Norwegian coast. Additionally, similar cultures were on the coastline in Sweden and Northern Germany. The sea used to be much higher – today their settlements are 60-70m above present sea level.

    You can visit Voldvatnet (also spelt Vollvatnet) today. Sadly it’s in a very crowded industrial place in Kristiansund. 

    Wiki (English) https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fosna%E2%80%93Hensbacka_culture

    Wiki (Norwegian) https://no.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fosna-Hensbacka-kulturen

    Vikings around Kristiansund

    While Kristiansund itself is not mentioned in the Viking Age, we know the Vikings were in this area. Firstly, because nearby Tingvoll was a historic meeting place. ‘Ting’ is an Old Norse word that means ‘assembly’. It’s where the chieftains would meet to discuss important matters. Secondly, the nearby island of Frei is mentioned in connection to a battle that took place during the Viking Age. You can read about it on my page about driving from Oppdal to Kristiansund as we drive past the place where it happened. 

    Fil:Grip hamna2005.jpg
    Grip (Source)

    Trade & Stockfish on the island of Grip

    Grip is one of the places I hope to visit and write about someday, but if you go to Kristiansund it’s an island you can take a day trip to. I recommend it.

    We know Kristiansund wasn’t very populated in the early years, but the island of Grip sure was. The first settlement of Grip is unknown. The island emerged from the sea sometime between 3500BC and 2500BC. This is well after the Fosna people of Kristiansund (and surrounds). There are no archaeological traces on the island, which is notoriously hostile. The very first fishermen to settle here must’ve been very brave!

    There are no written documents about when Grip was first settled. However, it was likely between the 9th and the 13th centuries. The island has no arable land and no shelter from strong winds, but it does have very rich fisheries. The people who moved here wanted to be close to the fishing grounds. In the 13th century, the Hanseatic League was gaining prominence in Bergen. The export of stockfish from Lofoten was becoming big business. The fishermen likely saw an opportunity in settling on this island, which is on the journey south from Lofoten to Bergen. 

    Grip became a very important place. In fact, it was the largest settlement in Nordmøre. The island came under the control of the archbishop of Norway, which is common. The church was the wealthiest landowner until the Reformation. 

    Fil:No-nb digibok 2014091028002 0141 1.jpg
    Grip in 1833 (Source)

    Grip has one of Norway’s 28 remaining stave churches. Grip Stave Church is from 1470 and is the oldest building on the island today. The altarpiece represents the strong connection to the Hanseatic merchants from Europe. Having a decorated stave church on such a remote island indicates how important this island was for the merchants. 

    The 15th and 16th centuries were the peak period for the island, thanks to the Hanseatic trade. Many wealthy merchants settled on Grip, and the population was as much as 300, making it the largest village in the region. The Hanseatic merchants exported stockfish to Europe, and Grip was one of the production sites. 

    Everything came crashing down at the Reformation when in 1537 King Christian III seized all church property in Norway. From the 18th century onwards, several harsh storms hit Grip, and the fishing grounds began to fluctuate. The population came and went depending on how good fishing was. No one lives permanently on the island today. Simply put, the island didn’t have a good enough location to develop a city. Additionally, towns by the fjords were becoming more popular as timber export grew. The houses today are holiday homes. You can visit Grip via a ferry from Kristiansund. 

    A harbour founded amongst islands

    Grip was where the action was, but there was a tiny settlement in Kristiansund. At the time it was known as Lille-Fosen based on the first peoples who lived here. The people lived on the meadow by the bay, Vågen, and this is where the city began to grow. You can see it on a map. Firstly, it’s where the Shipbuilding Museum is. Secondly, you can see how the bay is sheltered from strong winds coming in from the North Sea. 

    We know Grip wasn’t a great place to live. So, as trade moved away towards timber in the 17th century, merchants started looking for a natural harbour. This is the basis for commercial expansion and settlement in many places along the Norwegian coast. This is how Kristiansund began to grow. Even though Grip was important for boat traffic sailing along the coast, the significance of Lille-Fosen’s harbour between three islands increased. The small community grew from the 17th century, especially when the Dutch discovered it.

    The Golden Age of the Dutch Merchants, otherwise known as Hollendertiden

    The Dutch began coming to Norway in the 16th and 17th century to take all the timber. At the time, the Netherlands was the leading shipbuilding nation in Europe. To maintain this they needed a lot of timber. But not any timber. They needed long, straight trees with strong resilience to withstand harsh weather. Norway had large quantities of timber that they could buy at a reasonable price. 

    Fun fact: Amsterdam is literally built on Norwegian timber as timber was needed for foundations under large buildings.

    The Dutch came to the area around Kristiansund. There are some rich forests on the fjords, and the harbour of Kristiansund (then Lille-Fosen) was safe and suitable for them. The harbour Vågen became a permanent mooring and gathering place for vessels that visited the district. A customs station was established in 1630 to control the timber trade. 

    The Dutch didn’t only come to take all the timber; they brought goods for sale. Ceramics were very important. It’s likely they also brought wine, beer and liquors to Kristiansund. The Norwegians profited heavily from this, especially the forest and sawmill owners. They didn’t only go to Kristiansund; many coastal towns in Sørlandet, Østlandet, Vestlandet and Nordmøre (the stretch of coast from Kristiansand to Kristiansund) saw Dutch merchants come here. 

    The Dutch period lasted until 1850. 

    In the 1690s, something happened that would change Kristiansund forever. A Dutchman named Jappe Ippes brought knowledge about the production of klippfisk. He received a royal privilege that gave him permission to manufacture and export klippfisk. And so, a new industry was born. 

    Kristiansund in the early 18th century (Source)

    Klippfisk – Wikipedia
    Klippfisk

    The city founded on Klippfisk

    Kristiansund is said to be founded on klippfisk. After Jappe Ippes introduced the process in the 1690s, men came to Kristiansund to learn and expand the business. One of the most prominent men to come here was the Scotsman John Ramsay. John turned it into a large company, and soon after the most enterprising of merchants in Kristiansund gained control of all stages of klippfisk production. They received the catch, processed it, and then exported it. 

    We should back up a moment. What is klippfisk? It was virtually unknown in Norwegian cuisine at the time. Clipfish (I’m using the Norwegian name, klippfisk) is cod that has been both salted and dried. It is a descendant of stockfish – cod that dries unsalted and is as old as the Viking times. The process of salting fish started in the 15th century but was introduced to Norway by the Dutch. 

    ‘Klippfisk’ means ‘rock fish’ because they leave the fish out on rocks to dry. 

    There’s a big overview of how they make klippfisk (in English) here: https://cod.fromnorway.com/norwegian-cod/clipfish/

    During the 18th century, klippfisk became a major industry. Boats came in from the sea with the salted catch. Producing klippfisk was labour intensive, and soon factories popped up all over Vågen. They wash the fish before salting it again and drying it on a ‘fish mountain’. They then press it flat for two weeks to allow the saltwater to drain. Milnbrygga and Milnbergan are important cultural monuments from this time. Today, the whole process is modern and explained in that link above. 

    Thanks to klippfisk, the town began to expand. Lille-Fosen built up a large fleet with shipyards and ropeways. Expertise in shipbuilding was obtained from Copenhagen. The city grew in the 18th century as klippfisk became the major industry. 

    Lille-Fosen becomes Kristiansund

    The town got its name after King Christian VI granted it a town charter in 1742. He named it after himself, much like the Danish kings before him had named towns after themselves (see Kristiania/Oslo and Kristiansand in the south). Yes, there is often some confusion between Kristiansund and Kristiansand. Before postcodes, it was obligatory to add an N (for north) to Kristiansund and an S (for south) for Kristiansand. Some people still practice this, and when I say I’m going to Kristiansund, I have to word it like “KristianSUND (the one in the north)”. 

    The town charter meant expansion. Commerce in the town developed during the following decades and Kristiansund prospered. The demand for klippfisk was so great that the fishermen could not supply it all. Fishermen brought cod down from Lofoten and Finnmark to make the klippfisk. From the 1820s, salted herring also became an important export product. The city got a large fleet of sailing vessels, yachts, and galleys for traffic. The market expanded to the United States. The Danish merchant Christian Johnsen learned the principles of klippfisk trade in Bilbao and established his business in Kristiansund that exported klippfisk to Asia, South America, and Europe. Another klippfisk merchant, Nicolai H. Knudtzon, was Norway’s richest man at the end of the 19th century. 

    By the end of the 19th century, Kristiansund was a wealthy and prosperous town with merchant mansions, quaysides and wharves. 

    The Spanish Era & Eventual Collapse

    Around the time the Dutch trade was ending, the Spanish began to come to Kristiansund. Spain is one of the countries that ate a lot of klippfisk, due to the rules around Catholicism and not eating meat. Additionally, the Spanish had introduced bacalao using klippfisk. 

    Basically, the Spanish came to Kristiansund to buy klippfisk without a middle man. The Spanish sailors introduced bacalao to the city. 

    Fun fact: The ships that brought klippfisk to Spain brought back soil as ballast. The area around Kristiansund had little soil and Spanish soil was used in, among other things, the towns first public cemetery. 

    The klippfisk business continued until 1884. A sudden fall in market prices in Spain hit the companies in Kristiansund. All klippfisk exporters, with one exception, went bankrupt. 

    1870: https://digitaltmuseum.no/011013318326/kristiansund-more-og-romsdal-lunds-nr-21

    1880: https://digitaltmuseum.no/011013318387/panorama-av-havna-pa-innlandet-kristiansund-ca-1880-del-av-panorama-se

    Kristiansund in 1911 (Source)

    Kristiansund or Fosna?

    When Norway became independent in 1905, many cities started discussing the possibility of changing their name back. The Danes had changed many Norwegian town names. This is most prominent in Oslo, which was named Kristiania by Christian IV and changed back shortly after World War I. In Kristiansund, it was argued that the old name Fosna should replace Kristiansund. In 1929, a vote showed overwhelmingly that 99.1% of locals didn’t want the name changed. 

    The 1920s & 1930s: Wealth and Collapse

    At the end of the 19th century, Kristiansund was a beautiful city with many large merchant farms, boathouses and piers. The city didn’t have much of a zoning plan; instead, a house went wherever you could fit it. While this was impractical when cars were introduced, it was charming. Most of the houses were wooden.

    Kristiansund in 1882: https://digitaltmuseum.no/011013318183/gatebilde-fra-torvet-kirkelandet-kristianssund-1882-i-forgrunnen-til-venstre

    In 1928, 32 years before a national opera was founded in Oslo, the Norwegian Peoples Opera was founded in Kristiansund. So, opera came to Norway through Kristiansund. Today there is an opera festival that takes place every February. 

    Due to the limited scope of commercial activities, Kristiansund struggled to recover after the post-WWI economic collapse. Attempts in the 1930s to find new industries for Kristiansund began, but that was all halted by World War II. 

    The Bombing of Kristiansund (Source)

    World War II

    At the end of April 1940, when Nazi Germany was invading Norway, Kristiansund was subject to almost four days of continuous bombing by the German Luftwaffe. The town was left almost in ruins. Five people died, and 800 buildings were destroyed by fires that ravaged for days after the bombing. This corresponds to 28% of Norway’s total war damage to buildings during World War II. 

    Why did Germany bomb Kristiansund? Well, they thought the Norwegian King and the government were hiding here. They were not; they were in Molde. 

    Little could be rebuilt during the war, and most of the inhabitants who became homeless had to live in barracks until the end of the war. Some Swedish prefabricated houses were built in Kristiansund, and they still stand today. The street they are on is Vuggaveien. 

    Post-war Rebuilding

    After the war, Norwegian architects got to re-designing towns that were damaged during the war. The rebuilding was initiated under the ‘Brente steders regulation’ (Burnt Places Regulation). While a zoning plan was ready as early as August 1940, work couldn’t begin until after the war.

    Kristiansund got typical post-war architecture that characterises many of these ‘burnt places’. It’s best described as a sober functional style. The central parts of the city completely changed from charming, wooden districts to planned streets with concrete blocks. The building of Kirkelandet Church in 1964 marked the end of re-building.

    By 1950, 68% of the city had been rebuilt.

    Today, the reconstruction of Kristiansund is highlighted as one of the 20th century’s most worthy cultural environments in Norway. Furthermore, the town has the best-preserved examples of post-war architecture. The area that was rebuilt is the ‘Reconstruction City’ and has a very strong concentration of post-war houses not found elsewhere in Norway. 

    The main street, Kaibakken, is a great example of post-war design. It was a key element in the city’s reconstruction architecture. Many ‘burnt places’ in Norway got long, main streets like this one. They found inspiration in streets like the Champs Eylyss in Paris. 

    Finding new industries

    After the war, Kristiansund knew it had to expand beyond klippfisk. While klippfisk is still at the heart of the city, there are new industries in Kristiansund. The food industry is still important, but Kristiansund is now a central operations and supply base for the offshore oil industry. Oil is now the main commercial basis in the town.

    Modern Kristiansund's Highlights

    Today 24,334 people live in Kristiansund and it has all the facilities you’d ever need. The population of Kristiansund is actually rising. 

    Transport connections to Kristiansund are pretty good. Besides ferries out to the surrounding area, Kristiansund has the Norwegian National Road 70 and the European route E39. The airport, Kvernberget, has connections to major cities in Norway plus some European destinations in the summer. Kristiansund is also a port on the Hurtigruten. If you take the Hurtigruten southbound (Kirkenes – Bergen), you stop in Kristiansund for one hour in the afternoon. They have excursions to the Atlantic Road.

    There are plenty of primary, middle and upper secondary schools in Kristiansund. However, there no higher education facilities. 

     Culture & Tradition

    Kristiansund has a rich cultural life with the Opera Festival, the Nordic Light International Festival of Photography, the City Festival and the Tahiti Festival. The Opera House is the oldest in Norway. It is from 1914 and is one of the few buildings to survive the World War II bombing. Another one of the few buildings to survive World War II is Nordlandet Church, which is built of stone from 1914. It dominates the skyline on the island of Nordlandet. The newest church is Kirkelandet Church, which was the final postwar building in Kristiansund. 

    As you may imagine, there’s also a rich food culture in Kristiansund. Besides bacalao, another main dish is blandaball. I know the name doesn’t sound great in English. It’s a fishball consisting of fish (of course!), onion and potato. The ingredients are ground and shaped. In the middle is a piece of pork, just like a Norwegian Kinder Surprise. They don’t look great, but they taste excellent. 

    There are plenty of museums in Kristiansund about the history of the city. The Norwegian Bacalao Museum is the most popular. The Nordmøre Museum is also located here, plus the historic Mellemvaerftet Shipyard that you can visit. Vågen – the old harbour – has many interesting cultural monuments and is a great place to visit. Some old merchant farms and wharves are still standing. The old town was somehow spared during the bombing and it gives an insight into what Kristiansund used to look like.

    Lastly, the big thing people come here to see is the famous Atlantic Road – one of 18 national tourist roads in Norway. But more on that in a separate article.

    I hope you’ve enjoyed this overview of Kristiansund’s history, and that it’s inspired you to visit someday!

    The E39 Highway

    Kristiansund is located on the E39, the main highway along the west coast. You can find my guide to the E39 by clicking the link below. 

    The E39 Highway
    Kristiansund Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Norway's Coastal Ferry

    Kirkenes is a port of call of Norway’s coastal ferry. Find my guide for the coastal ferry by clicking the link below. 

    Norway's Coastal Ferry
  • Kristiansund

    The Old Meeting Place & Stone Church of Tingvoll

    The Old Meeting Place & Stone Church of Tingvoll

    Tingvoll Church is a historically important church in the west of Norway. Located close to Kristiansund on the Tingvollfjord, the site is where chieftains met in pre-Christian times. When Christianity came to Norway, they plopped a church down on the important place. Tingvoll Church has stood here since the second half of the 1100s. Today it’s one of the most important stone churches in the country.

    If you find yourself driving around Kristiansund, I recommend making a detour to this church. Below I’ve written an overview of the history, decoration, and significant of the church. Hopefully, it inspires you to make the journey there.

    In this article...

    The Rv70 Highway

    Tingvoll Church is located on the Rv70, a major highway in western Norway. You can find my guide to the Rv70 by clicking the link below. 

    The Rv70 Highway
    Kristiansund Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    History of Tingvoll Church

    Tingvoll Church is one of the few stone churches remaining from early Christian times in Norway. The first mention of the church is in 1357. It is referred to as Þingualla kirkiu. However, the church is much older than that. It is from the 1100s.

    The site of the church is important. The name Tingvoll refers to a meeting place where the chieftains would meet to discuss laws, events, and settlements. Ting is a word that comes from the Old Norse meaning ‘assembly’. Today the parliament in Norway is the Ting. ‘Tingvoll’ is a name found in many Viking settlements, too. This includes the Scottish town of Dingwall, the parliament on the Isle of Man is Tynwald, the English town of Thingwall, and Thingvellir in Iceland.

    In the old times, Tingvoll was the meeting place of the chieftains for the region of Nordmøre. There is very little evidence that Tingvoll Church was an important county church. Instead, the choice of location is likely symbolic: representing Christianity coming to the region. Tingvoll Church is sometimes nicknamed Nordmøre Cathedral to symbolise the location as important in the region.

    In the Middle Ages, there were around ten stone churches in the county. This indicates that the region was very important when it came to religion. They used stone as a building material for the most important churches. Normally, wooden stave churches were built during this period.

    Johan Meyer’s Description of Tingvoll Church

    A lot of what we know about Tingvoll Church today comes from one man, Johan Meyer. He (1860-1940) was a Norwegian architecture professor. Meyer conducted extensive work on Norwegian ancient monuments and historical architecture. He believes there used to be a stave church on the site, but it burned down during the Civil War in the 12th century. It was then replaced by the current church.

    Meyer also wrote a detailed overview of the design, architecture, and use of the church. His book, Tingvoll County Church on Nordmøre, is the most important historical document on the church. It is from 1910 and you can read it online here (in Norwegian).

    Click here to learn more about Johan Meyer.

    Design & Architecture

    As mentioned above, a lot of what we know about architecture comes from Johan Meyer. The walls of the church are 1.8m (5ft 11in) thick, and Meyer believed that the church doubled as a fortress. Unlike other stone churches in Norway, there are corridors and stairs in the thick walls. Tingvoll Church is the only church in Norway (and the Nordic region) partly built as a fortress with a corridor system and thick walls.

    Other than the unique fortress aspect, Tingvoll Church has a similar style to other stone churches in Norway. This includes Veøy Gamle Kirke near Molde, Værnes Church in Trøndelag, Mære Church in Steinkjer, and Trondenes Church near Harstad.

    The corners and openings have marble stone, a common feature of old churches in north-western Norway. Unlike many other medieval churches, though, there is an unusual number of windows. The three-leaf clover arches on the west gable are inspired by Nidaros Cathedral in Trondheim.

    Interior of the Church

    The church is a little plainer than some other churches, especially the stave churches. But what decorations there are, we see rich and beautiful details. While there’s not much of it, what craftsmanship we can see shows that these people were very skilled.

    Sadly, after the Reformation, the new Lutherans removed or covered many of the decorations. Efforts to uncover the old decoration took place during a more recent renovation, but many objects remain lost. Most of the decoration inside is reminiscent of the 17th century.

    On the walls are remnants of frescos, but most of them were painted over during the Reformation. You can see a fresco of St. Georg in battle with a dragon, and a fresco on the north wall has remnants of a king and bishop.

    Important Pieces

    The pulpit is Dutch and comes from around 1632. The carved figures are in the Spanish Baroque style depicting Christ and the Evangelists and Adam and Eve on the canopy.

    Fil:2008 04 20 Tingvoll gamle kirke 110.jpg
    Image source // Image by Frode Inge Helland

    The altarpiece is early Gothic from the 13th century and still in use, though there is a second Baroque altarpiece from 1660.

    The baptismal font is from Nuremberg and dates back to 1444. It’s made of brass.

    Fil:Tingvollskulptur.2.jpg
    One of the the chapter figures // Image source // Image by Nina Aldin Thune

    On the lecture wall/choir wall are two preserved chapter figures from 1200. They were uncovered when the wall opened in a later restoration. The 17th-century wall had been built over the figures. Today, they are the only stone sculptures in the church.

    Fil:2008 04 20 Tingvoll gml kirke 106.jpg
    Image source: https://kunsthistorie.com/fagwiki/Fil:2008_04_20_Tingvoll_gml_kirke_106.jpg // Image by Frode Inge Helland

    A special item inside is the ‘King’s Chair’. It is from 1662 and has its name because King Christian V of Denmark/Norway visited in 1685. He attended service at Tingvoll Church and sat in the chair. So, it became known as the King’s Chair! In memory of the event, a monogram C5 is above the chair.

    Runic Inscriptions

    Like many churches, this also has a runic inscription on it. A rune inscription is the Old Norse written text carved into stone or wood. These runes are on marble and say:

    I pray for God’s sake you learned men who guard this holy place and all those who interpret my prayer: Remember my soul in holy prayers. But my name was Gunnar and I made this house. Live well.

    Historians regard this inscription as one of the finest in a Norwegian church. Additionally, it teaches us a lot about this person. The person who did this inscription probably mastered Latin letters. Also, the spelling is influenced by Latin script culture. Because the spelling is consistent, the person was likely familiar with text in books.

    Restoration Work Attempts and Lawsuits

    The most original part of the church is the walls, which are the same as they were in the Middle Ages. Storms damaged the tower in the 17th and 18th centuries, and repair work in 1708 gave the tower its present form.

    In the early 1900s, it was discovered that the building lacked proper foundations – the thick walls stood right on the ground. The ground underneath was sliding, causing the walls to begin to crack. A major restoration was done in 1928 when the interior got its current appearance.

    And then came the lawsuit. In 2016, a new refurbishment of the exterior was carried out. Ever since the 12th century, the stone walls had traces of the original builders on them. However, the company that did the restoration used angle grinders – something you aren’t supposed to do – and destroyed the traces of the original buildings.

    After the work was done, the National Heritage Board claimed that the company did the work in such a way that the surface of the rock changed. The case went to court. While the company was known for restoring old buildings, many errors were made on this one. The company had used incorrect methods and equipment, and the crew were not properly trained. They didn’t speak Norwegian well, and they didn’t understand the instruction and control. 1/6 of the buildings 300 stones were completely or partially damaged. The construction company was fined 400,000 NOK for their error.

    Article about the damage + images of what the builders did

    Another article with more pictures

    Tingvoll Vicarage

    Next to the church is the old vicarage (prestgård). This is the culture centre for Nordmøre, but historically it’s where the priests lived. Several priests who lived here are quite well known, such as Hans Tausen (1659-1697), who started an astronomical observatory here during his tenure. This guy was a character. Look here at this photo of him.

    The buildings here are listed. The main building (with the turf roof) is from 1622-25, the barn is from 1900, and the boathouse is of unknown age.

    Cemetery

    In the cemetery you’ll find a memorial for all the locals who died during Wold War II.

    The Church Today

    Today the church is open during summer, and guided tours can be arranged. Summer concerts are held on Saturdays at 5pm.

    There is a large (free) parking area outside, and it’s just a minute or so to walk to the church. It is fairly well signed from the town of Tingvoll, but all GPS navigation systems have it marked as well.

    There are no facilities here.

    The Rv70 Highway

    Tingvoll Church is located on the Rv70, a major highway in western Norway. You can find my guide to the Rv70 by clicking the link below. 

    The Rv70 Highway
    Kristiansund Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide
  • Folldal, National Highways, Road-trips, Rondane, Røros

    Drive it Yourself: Folldal to Røros: A Scenic Drive Through the Industrial Region of Eastern Norway

    Drive it Yourself: Folldal to Røros: A Scenic Drive Through the Industrial Region of Eastern Norway

    I love Røros. I’m fairly positive I begin each article about Røros with that statement, but it’s very true. Røros has an incredible history and is a very well preserved town. I’m surprised more travellers in Norway don’t go there.

    When we are visiting Røros in September 2020, we were driving up from Ringebu via the Rondane National Park. The road to Røros isn’t direct, but we didn’t mind. Little did we know that we were actually driving through a historic mining region. The road from Folldal to Røros is a very old mining area – mining began here in the 17th century. Many of the towns you pass through on this drive were established thanks to Røros Copperworks – the main mining company here.

    Even if mining isn’t of interest to you, don’t pass up a chance to drive through this gorgeous part of the country.

    Here’s my drive from Folldal to Røros via Alvdal on Highway 3 in Norway.

    In this article...

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    Visit Our YouTube Channel

    The drive: Folldal to Røros

    Folldal Mines

    Historic Site

    We begin at the Folldal mines, an old 18th century mine that is today heritage listed in Norway.

    Mining was the main industry in Folldal from the 18th century until 1993.

    Folldal Works (Folldal Verk) was founded in 1748, the same year the main copper mine opened. Copper, mine and zinc was all mined in Folldal. It was then transported by horse carriage to the neighbouring Alvdal municipality, where there was a smelter. In 1906, a 34km-long cable car (North Europe’s longest) was built to transport goods to the smelter.

    The main mine closed in 1941, but smelting continued using ore from other deposits until 1968. Business closed in 1993.

    Today the mines are a museum.

    The museum has short opening hours – late June to mid-August. They have some really interesting attractions and ticket combos, so I will be back!

    You can drive up to the carpark and wander around outside for free.

    Click here to view their website.

    On their website you’ll find opening hours and ticket fees.

    Vassaga

    Historic Site/Detour

    Vassaga is a preserved sawmill from 1900. It is powered by water and is unique because it has a special device for sawing shavings. This is the only known instance of a sawmill having a device for shavings. The shavings are used in roofing in the area.

    You’ll see signs pointing to it from the highway.

    Folldal Church

    Church/Detour

    Folldal Church is located on the road that leads to Vassaga. The church is a typical rural church from the late 19th century. The altarpiece inside is from the 17th century.

    Grimsbu

    Village

    Grimsbu is a tiny town; when I was researching it, some of the top hits on the web were for the IKEA furniture named after the town!

    There is a campsite in Grimsbu – the Grimsbu Turistsenter – that has everything you’ll ever need when camping. From Grimsbu, there are hiking and skiing trails plus spots for fishing.

    There is an ancient road in Grimsbu called Byveien. It is a route over the mountain that from around 1050 until the Reformation connected the pilgrims routes through Gudbrandsdalen and Østerdalen. In the 12th century, the road was laid out as a pilgrimate route from Innlandet to Nidaros. The road was forgotten for many centuries, but now there is an active effort to restore the road. The trail is north of Grimsbu. An image of it can be seen here. 

    Grimsbu also has an old BP petrol station that looks as it did when it was put there in 1955. There used to be a country store on the property – it dates back to 1900 – but in the 50s they modernised with a petrol station. A website for it is found here (also the image source). 

    The BP station is by the Fv29 and across the street from the Grimsbu Turistsenter – a hotel/cafe/shop building.

    Einunna

    Historic Site

    When Norway was invaded on 9 April 1940, a group of Norwegians mobilised in Alvdal. They organised a defence at Einunna Bridge by blowing it up.

    When the Germans arrive on 26 April, they inspected the bridge and the Norwegians surprised them with gunfire. A fight commenced, but the Norwegians were buried in snow and hard to see. The German tanks managed to keep the Norwegians down so most of the Germans could get out. They tried to advance, but it was impossible. The Germans did eventually occupy Alvdal, but they came in via another road.

    From 2020, the bridge is being rebuilt.

    There was a rest area, but when I visited it was closed due to the construction work.

    Info about the WWII battle

    Musea i Nord Osterdalen link

    Alvdal Municipality

    You cross into Alvdal Municipality.

    Alvdal

    Town

    Alvdal is a small town (pop. 2,418) with a long tradition of mining, as is common in this part of Norway (and the focus of our drive!).

    There has been mining in Alvdal since 1656, when the first finds of copper ore were made nearby. Mining didn’t take off until copper was found in Folldal in 1745.

    The mines in Folldal got into disputes with the mining operations in Røros, including access to timber. Due to the little access to timber in Folldal, a smelting hut was built in Alvdal instead. Alvdal has plenty of access to timber. It was less resource intensive to transfer ore to Alvdal than it was to transport wood to Folldal.

    New mines were built around the area in the 18th century. From 1905, a cable car was used to transport ore to Alvdal.

    Mining operations declined and have mostly ended now. Today the largest employer is the dairy company, and many people work in agriculture and the timber industry.

    Glomma River

    River

    At 621km (386 mi), the Glomma is Norway’s longest river. It has a drainage basin that covers 13% of Norway’s surface area, all in the southern part of the country.

    At its full length, the river runs from Aursund near Røros and empties into the Oslofjord in Fredrikstad.

    The combination of raw materials, water power and transport has over the centuries encouraged industry along the Glomma. Some of the country’s largest manufacturing and processing businesses are found at its mouth.

    Tynset Municipality

    You cross into Tynset Municipality.

    Tynset

    Town

    Tynset is a small town located in the north of Østerdalen, or the Eastern Valley. It is first mentioned in 1211, when the archbishop of Nidaros consecrated a stave church. There is no stave church today; there are parts from an old stave church at Kvikne (more on that below).

    The town is known for its vast areas of forest and mountains, which are ideal for outdoor activities. Tynset is also one of the few places where most of its mountain farms (seter) are in use. You can visit them when hiking, and even rent some for the night.

    Kickers/kicksleds (Norwegian: spark) are produced here. The world’s largest kicker is in the main square of Tynset; it is four times life-size.

    Kvikne

    Historic Site/Detour

    Kvikne is home to the Kvikne copperworks, founded in 1630, which was one of Norway’s first copperworks. This led to the population in the mountain village rising and laying a foundation for further development. The copperworks was run by the Danish King, and was the largest copper plant in Norway. Eventually Folldal and Røros became more important, and Kvikne was clsoed down in 1812, though operations continued in a much smaller capacity until 1912. Only ruins remain today, but you can visit them.

    Kvikne Church is from 1654 and seats 203. It has decorated equipment and an interior with a carved altarpiece and pulpit. The crucifix is in the Romanesque style and dates to around 1200. In the attic, stave church planks in the Urnes style have been found, probably from an older church on the site. Bjørnstjerne Bjørnson was baptised in the church.

    Close to the church is the Bjørgan vicarage, a museum and former vicarage in Kvikne. It is considered an artists home as Bjørnstjerne Bjørnson (1832-1910) was born here and lived here until he was five.

    The house is built in 1780 and was a vicarage until 1860. The building was supposed to be demolished, but it was saved in an attempt to make it a museum for Bjørnson. Several items from his time are on display in the museum.

    Kvikne is a 40 minute drive from Tynset, so it is quite the detour but worth doing.

    Telneset

    Town

    The next small town along the Fv30 is Telneset. It is not an old town; it was actually built up alongside the establishment of the Røros Line in 1877. A small community was built up around the train station, and soon there was a post office and a sawmill. The sawmill made materials for building houses, and soon there was a concrete foundry to supply roof tiles and pipes, plus a carpentry to make windows, doors and furniture.

    Telneset saw a dramatic event take place here during World War II. On 24 April 1940, the Germans were coming up Østerdalen while a train with Norwegians was in retreat. The train was shelled and had to stop at Telneset. German planes came and dropped 13 bombs on the train and the damage was great; six Norwegians were killed.

    Today Telneset is a small agricultural community.

    Tolga Municipality

    You cross into Tolga Municipality.

    Tolga

    Town

    Our next stop is Tolga, which was built up around the Tolga smeltehytte (smelting cabin) in the 1660s. The smelter was operated by Røros Kobberverk and it was in operation until 8171. Tolga was a suitable location because it had waterfall power plus a good supply of timber.

    Today many people work in agricultural, though the municipality is the largest employer.

    In the town centre you’ll find an old farmstead called Dølmotunet. During the summer there are tons of activities thee, and an exhibition has items from the Stone Age to the 19th century.

    You can learn more about the smelter here. 

    Os

    Town

    Os is a small village with about 25% of the population working in agriculture. The timber industry is also important to the region.

    A skirmish took place here duing World War II. It was the last skirmish in the region before the Germans were able to occupy the area, and it was one of the few fighting operations where Swedish and Finnish volunteers participated in fighting against the occupying forces in 1940. The Germans burned down eight farms as reprisals.

    In Os you’ll find a museum with objects preserved from the region. The Forollhogna National Park is also nearby. The mountain peaks are popular for skiing in the winter.

    Trøndelag County

    You cross into Trøndelag County.

    Røros Municipality

    You cross into Røros Municipality.

    Røros

    Welcome to Røros! We made it. Røros is a UNESCO World Heritage Area full of history, charm, and things to do. I recommend parking at the Smelthytta Musuem and exploring Røros on foot. You can spend heaps of time here – be sure to make the most of it.

    Røros Travel Guide

    The Previous Drive

    The Rondane National Park

    The best way to get to Folldal is by taking the Rondane Tourist Road. 

    Rondane Tourist Road

    The Next Drive

    Oppdal to Kristiansund

    On the following day we drove to Kristiansund on the west coast of Norway via Oppdal. 

    Oppdal to Kristiansund

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Røros, Walking Guides

    A Self-Guided Walk through Røros

    A Self-Guided Walk through Røros

    When the husband and I went on our road-trip back in September 2020, this was one of the articles I knew I was going to write. Røros has always fascinated me; not just because it’s so picturesque but also due to its UNESCO World Heritage status as a historic mining town. I couldn’t find a good self-guided walking tour online, so I decided to make my own when I was there. 

    Before I start, I will say that there are a couple different options for doing a walk in Røros. Firstly, most of the buildings have QR codes on them that link to a summary of the location. Secondly, and most importantly, there are guided tours of Røros. I’d recommend hiring a guide (who lives there and knows the town inside and out) and seeing Røros that way. I’ve designed my guide more as an overview of what to expect in Røros. You can follow the path, of course, but the best info comes from a guide (after all, I do walking tours of Bergen!). This isn’t sponsored or anything; I just prefer guided tours.

    Anyway, here’s my self-guided walking tour of Røros. 

    Røros Travel Guide

    In this article...

    The Fv30 Highway

    You can reach Røros by taking the Fv30 from near Trondheim. You can find my guide to the Fv30 by clicking the link below. 

    The Fv30 Highway
    Røros Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Download this Guide

    All of our guides can be downloaded via our online store. 

    I offer downloadable versions of my self-guided walks on my online store. 

    View at the Store

    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Information about facilities along the way

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the region & towns
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Facilities including supermarkets, toilets, petrol, hotels, cafes, restaurants with addresses.

    Røros Self-Guided Walking Tour

    Start: Smeltehytta Museum

    The Smeltahytta Museum is a great introduction to the mining and smelting history of Røros. Outside is a large carpark, so park the car and lets begin the walk!

    Smeltehytta Museum Guide

    The Sintering Shed

    The land was originally used for storing deposits of gravel, but in the 1890s a small smeltery was constructed to smelt silica ore. In Norwegian, the word is ‘sintring’ – hence the name of the shed. 

    Røros Kobberverk experimented with smelting silica in order to improve production efforts.

    Today the building is a storage shed.

    You’ll see an information board to the left of the building with some info on the Røros UNESCO region. 

    Hytteklokka

    Hytteklokka, or the Smelting Bell (in Norwegian klokk = bell. It can be confusing!) was the shift clock for workers in the smelter. Because the smelter had to be active 24.7, the workers worked in shifts. The bell was rung every time a shift was over and a new one began. The original bell tower was much taller; it was replaced in the 1890s. 

    Røros Church

    How beautiful is this church? You can’t miss it; it’s visible from almost anywhere in town.

    Røros Church was built between 1780 and 1784. It was funded by Røros Kobberverk and the cost of the church was the equivalent of 450 miners’ yearly salaries! It’s crazy to also know that the company’s turnover was enough to build 3-4 buildings at that cost per year.

    To the locals, Røros Church is known as ‘Bergstadens Ziir’. Bergstaden is a name for a mining town, and Ziir means ‘pride’. So it translates to “the pride of the mining town”.

    On the tower of the church you can see the logo for Røros Kobberverks; it’s one of few churches in Norway to display the logo of its main sponsor on the exterior. 

    If you ever manage to get lost in Røros (that alone is a feat!), you can always see the church. 

    Kjerkegata

    Historically there are two main streets in Røros, and this is one of them. We’ll be on the other one soon.

    Kjerkgata is traditionally a business street, and almost every property was a farm (gård or gaard), trading house, and home. 

    Source 1

    Trygstad Bakery

    Every small town has a bakery, and Røros has many. Trygstad Bakery is one of the most historic.

    The name is from Edvard Trygstad, who moved to Røros when he was 22 years old (1899). He worked at another bakery for a while, but in 1906 he started his own bakery. It quickly became known as having good quality, and in 1916 he bought the current building. 

    Today the bakery is owned by his descendants. 

    The bakery was featured in an episode of Alt for Norge, a competition series where Norwegian-Americans come to Norway to learn about their family. 

    Trygstad Bakery is one of the oldest businesses in Røros. We had lunch and then breakfast here, and I can confirm it is amazing – some of the best coffee I’ve ever had! It’s a very cramped and overcrowded bakery, but it’s part of the charm, right?

    Bakery Website

    Bergmannsgata

    Welcome to the second main street in Røros! The name ‘Bergmannsgata’ comes from the professional title of a miner: Bergmann. The current layout here is from the 17th century, shortly after the founding of Røros. 

    Many of the houses here have wide openings on the lower floor: this was for the animals. Behind the house would be a stable with farm animals; this was necessary to surviving in Røros. A typical house had 4-6 cows. Today there are no cows, but some houses still have horses. 

    Source 1

    Rasmusgården

    This house is a great example of a miners home + working farm. It was likely built at the end of the 17th century; the house hasn’t changed since the early 1800s but the farmhouse out the back is likely the same as it was in the 1680s! Today this is regarded as one of the oldest farm buildings in Røros.

    The property is named after Olaf Rasmus Vintervold, who was a miner. 

    A lot of animals have lived here. In a census from 1865 there was 1 horse, 5 cows and 6 sheep living here. In the title deed from 1748, the property had 1 ox, 3 cows, 1 calf, 4 goats, 3 chickens, 3 sheep and 2 lambs – all on this tiny property!

    Rasmusgarden was also a travellers stables. When the horses arrived in winter, it was required that they would have a stable and the people would have a place to stay. Many houses doubled as these travellers stables (property for both horse and man). 

    Today the property is owned by the Norwegian Preservation for Ancient Monuments (Fortidsminneforeningen) and can be rented out if you want to spent the night there. 

    Source 1 | Source 2 | Source 3

    Finnegården

    Finnegården is one of the only houses with an intact farm structure. Most of the outbuildings are preserved, to some extent, in their original character.

    The interiors of this house are incredibly well preserved. The wallpaper is from the 1890s and is intended to mimic golden leather. It was likely produced in Belgium and very expensive.

    Finnegården is where the wealthy Engzelius family lived. The term ‘storing’ is used about the upper class in Røros; they worked in a higher position at the mine and they also created their wealth on trade and other business activities. The Engzelius family was one of the most prominent ‘storing’ families in Røros. They weren’t just merchants but also worked in industry and banking. 

    In total, there are 60 rooms inside – huge for a building in Røros. 

    Today the building is under protection. 

    Pictures | Source 1 | Source 2 | Source 3 | Excellent Interior Picture Gallery

    Lion Pharmacy

    Løve = Lion
    apoteket = Pharmacy

    The pharmacy was established in 1821 and supplied the entire Circumference (mining region). 

    The pharmacist didn’t just have drugs and medicines. They also sold prunes, raisins, candy sugar and self-made chocolate. For a while, they even sold liquor. Whenever the transport workers arrived in Røros, you can bet the first place they went was the pharmacy!

    Today the pharmacy is located closed to the modern shopping area. The interior of this pharmacy is well preserved, with murals painted in 1936. 

    Why is it called a lion pharmacy? Are there lions in Røros? It’s actually very common in Germanic countries (Scandinavia, Germany, Austria) to name pharmacies after animals. Lions and swans are the most common names in Norway, while in Germany and Austria they have animals like rhinos, pelicans and stork. 

    Photo 1 | Photo 2

    Source 1 | Source 2 | Source 3

    Sleggveien

    Welcome to perhaps one of the most photographed streets in Røros.

    These houses are very different than the ones we just waked through. Most of the people who lived on this street were poor and didn’t own their own animals. Additionally, they very likely did not work in mining.

    The people who lived in Sleggveien were craftsmen, cleaners, gypsies and others who had no permanent work at Røros Kobberverk. They had no land to farm. The women earned a living as domestic servants in wealthy homes, while the men were likely cobblers, clock and watch repairmen, or maybe musicians. 

    These days, some of the houses are open to the public in summer. You can find further info below. 

    NOTE – some of these homes are private residences. Please be respectful when walking through the street. I’ve outlined which houses are not lived in, but for the ones that are please don’t look through windows, mailboxes, etc. I know it seems like a common courtesy, but it is a growing problem. 

    Opening Hours | Thursday evening Concerts

    Source 1 | Source 2 

    Slag/slegg

    We’ve made it to Mt. Slag! Well, that’s not it’s official name, but it does feel like a bit of a hike to get up here. 

    What is slag (slegg in Norwegian)? It is a mixture of oxides, silicates and other residues formed during the production and refining of metals. Basically, it’s waste from the smelting process. 

    These slag heaps are the result of 300 years of smelting ore at the smeltery.

    Originally, slag was transported across the bridge via horse and cart. In 1889, a cable and bucket system was built over the river. The bridge (we’ll see it soon) is what is left of the slag transport system. 

    Source 1

    Røros Copperworks

    This complex is where the Røros Kobberverk had their offices and workshops. The oldest buildings along the river are from before 1820. The other buildings are from after 1940. 

    From right to left:

    • Blacksmith: This stone building is from the 1880s and is where the blacksmith was. The blacksmith’s job was to make and repair tools, equipment and utensils for all mining activities. 
    • Workshop: This is from 1800, with an additional floor coming a few decades later. The ground-floor was a carpenters workshop and the upper floor was used by bellows makers. The bellows makers assembled, maintained and repaired the air bellows that forced air into the furnaces into the smeltery. The building is still a carpentry workshop. 
    • Wheelwrights/Wheelmakers Workshop: This is also from between 1800 and 1820, and it is where wagon wheels and water wheels were made. These were very important for mining, and a wheelwright was regarded as one of the most skilled and qualified of artisans. 
    • Bellows Workshop: This is one of the oldest buildings in the complex. Built in the early 1800s, this is where the bellow makers constructed, repaired and maintained the bellows. Bellows are used in the smeltery to construct, repair and maintain the bellows that were used to force air into the furnaces. They were highly respected craftsmen. 
    • The Office Building: This is from between 1800 and 1820 and served as the office for company staff members. On the second floor is where the surveyor’s office was. His job was to survey the land and draw up plans, make models and maps that were about the ore deposits and mines. Today the building is used by the Røros Preservation Centre. 
    • Iron Shed: The iron shed is another early 19th century building. As the name suggests, rod iron was stored here and then utilised to make different types of machinery and equipment. The building is almost exactly the same as when it was built – the windows were added in the late 1800s. 
    • Work House: The last building in the lineup is the work house – it is where heavy carpentry work was done. Apart from necessary maintenance work, this building is unaltered from when it was built in 1820. 

    Source 1 | 2 | 3 |4| 5 | 6 | 7 

    Slag Transportation System & Dam

    When you stand on the bridge, you get an excellent outlook to the dam and the slag transportation system. 

    Røros Kobberverk erected the smeltery at the waterfall Hitterelva in 1646. The damn was constructed around the same time.

    The water intake powered the vertical saw in the sawmill, which was located on the eastern (across from the museum) side of the river. 

    The sawmill was used for more than 200 years. When it was closed in 1920, they dismantled it. When the dam was being restored, the remains were found and a new building is built over them to protect them. If you look in the picture, it’s the light-coloured wooden building on the right. The water wheel is on display at the museum. 

    From here you are back at the museum. I hope you enjoyed the walk!

    The Fv30 Highway

    You can reach Røros by taking the Fv30 from near Trondheim. You can find my guide to the Fv30 by clicking the link below. 

    The Fv30 Highway
    Røros Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide
  • Museums, Røros

    The Røros Museum ‘Smeltehytta’

    The Røros Museum ‘Smeltehytta'

    When you visit Røros, you have to go to the museum. Located just by the church, the museum is a reconstruction of the Smeltehytta that once stood here (I’ll explain what that is below). Inside you’ll find an overview of the unique mining history in Røros, from the process to the finance and beyond. But the museum isn’t just about mining – a topic I know doesn’t appeal to everyone – but the museum is about life in Røros. What was it like to live here 300 years ago? What happened to the Sami people? By visiting the museum, you get this newfound appreciation for the difficulty of living in such a remote spot.

    Back in September 2020, I visited the museum during my road-trip around southern Norway. I was impressed by many aspects of the museum, and it helped when I walked through Røros afterwards. I’ve found information about the museum online to be scattered, so I’ve put together this guide to help you get an understanding of what to expect when visiting.

    In this article...

    The Fv30 Highway

    You can reach Røros by taking the Fv30 from near Trondheim. You can find my guide to the Fv30 by clicking the link below. 

    The Fv30 Highway
    Røros Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    What is a Smeltehytta? The History of the Site Explained

    A Smeltehytta – or smelting cabin in English – is the place where the copper ore underwent a long and laborious smelting process before the finished product was exported. The mining didn’t take place in Røros but the surrounding area; once the copper ore was extracted, it was transported by horse and sledge to one of the many Smeltehytta’s around Røros. There were twelve Smeltehytta’s in total. The Smeltehytta had to be built by a river to utilise the waterpower, as well as be close to timber as the process required a lot of wood.

    I explain the mining history in-depth on a separate page, which you can view here.

    It’s believed one of the first-ever Smeltehytta’s was built on the site where the museum is today, and the town of Røros grew around it. Sadly, that Smeltehytta is long gone; the cabins were never really preserved. As mining was modernised, so was the smelting process. Also, the Smeltehytta in Røros burned down in 1953 and then again in 1975. Between 1986 and 1988 it was rebuilt as a cultural monument and museum, and a lot of work went into making it look as much like the real thing as possible.

    Inside the museum

    Arriving at the museum

    Signs are pointing to the museum all over town. If you are on foot, it’s a couple of minutes walk from the main street. If you have just arrived by train, it’s only a ten-minute walk (800m). Otherwise, there is a very large car-park outside the museum itself. Please note, though, that the roads leading up to the museum are very narrow for cars and most are one-way; pay attention to which way they go!

    View from the car-park

    Approaching the museum + car-park by car (taken from my YouTube video)

    After parking at the museum, you get an excellent view of Røros Church. Such an amazing view, but don’t let it distract you! You can explore the town after. I got so distracted I forgot to take a photo of the museum.

    Arriving at the museum

    You enter the museum on the top floor. The reception desk is right there, with the souvenir shop just behind. To your right will be an exhibition about Røros as a UNESCO World Heritage-listed region. It’s mostly just text on boards, but there are some great images there. The exhibition also shows you the other UNESCO sites in Norway, including beautiful Bryggen in Bergen. You can see what it looks like here.

    The shop is excellent, but I’ll talk about that below.

    Once you get your ticket and brochure, you head downstairs to the bottom floor: it’s two floors down. There’s also a lift. This is where the main exhibitions are.

    Vaskaryss og Bersa: A Sculpture Exhibition

    Before you walk into the main exhibition about mining, you’ll pass through this sculpture exhibit. It’s called ‘Vaskaryss og Bersa’ and it is a series of sculptures by local artist Per Sverre Dahl. The sculptures depict the dark side of mining in the early years: child labour and poor work conditions. The sculptures are excellent, but you are likely to skip right by them on your way to the main exhibit.

    The Main Exhibit: Mining around Røros

    This is what you came for. It shows examples of how mining and smelting took place in Røros from the 17th to the 19th century – i.e. pre-modernisation. It highlights the organisation, use of materials, and financing.

    Immediately you’re greeted with this huge display that says all the names of the mines and all the different jobs at each mine. It also shows how long they lasted. It’s a great visual representation of just how big mining was here, but note it’s all in Norwegian – old Norwegian too!

    Of course, one of the first displays is copper ore. You have to see what they made their money on. This piece is taken from Gamle Storwartz mine – the first mine in the region.

    There is another incredible display outlining how much copper was extracted each year, plus when each mine was in operation. I love visual displays like this; it’s so much nicer than reading a wall of text. If you read many of my pieces about museums, you’ll see I don’t care much for museums that are just made up of text. I like visual representations – that’s why I go to museums! If I wanted just text, I’d read a book. Anyway.

    After passing these displays, you turn into the main room. Here you see the models that represent how the process works. There’s also a section with items from the old mines. I should say that the items leftover from the mines is very minimal. While I found that disappointing, it’s worth remembering that the miners were not exactly preoccupied with preserving everything when doing that hard manual labour every day.

    The models are incredible. They move and replicate exactly what the mining process was like. It helped me understand how it all worked. I was mesmerised by the quality and attention to detail that went into these models. They are fantastic. You’ll spend most of your time here looking at them.

    The Ruins

    After walking through this room, you’ll reach the end. It feels small but go through the large barn door to your left. This is an additional room with models, but there’s also the remains of the old smelter here.

    In this room, you’ll also find some old photos. Many of these photos can be seen online here.

    Be sure to look up! This painting is above the entrance to this room.

    The barn-like room is where you see most of the old smelter. It’s great any of it remains considering it burned down in 1953 and 1975. There are old tools and gear here, and they aren’t in any exhibition case. They are just left scattered around, as though the workers have put them down for their break. I like this authenticity. It’s rough, rugged, and authentic.

    However, the room is small. You’re done in no time. Head back to the main exhibition room and then from there you head upstairs.

    Upper floor exhibition

    On the middle floor is an exhibition called Ti Finpussa (In Their Finery). It is a collection of clothing pieces that were worn by people in Røros throughout the 18th and 19th centuries. It shows how people dressed for the weekend, holidays, and parties. The clothing is inspired by European trends, but also reflects the practical needs of the people living here.

    I remember that almost all the information was in Norwegian. Luckily I had my husband there to translate, but we moved through this exhibition pretty fast and I didn’t take any photo.

    You can see the exhibition here.

    Temporary exhibitions

    The museum has temporary exhibitions every year. We didn’t go – I don’t think there were any when we visited. In 2021 they have an exhibition on the Alta Hydropower project, which is interesting considering Alta is very far away from Røros. My guess is that it ties in with the Sami community in Røros. Click here to view info on the exhibit.

    Interestingly, I couldn’t find any info about the temporary exhibitions on their English website; just the Norwegian website. Either they haven’t updated it, or they are only doing it in Norwegian.

    Visiting the museum

    How long should I spend here?

    The museum is small, and we were in and out within an hour. Of course, that depends on your interests.

    When is it open?

    The opening hours are:

    • 20 June – 15 August: 10.00 – 18.00
    • 16 August – 10 September: 10.00 – 16.00
    • 11 September – 31 May: 10.00 – 15.00 
    • 1 June – 19 June: 10.00 – 16.00

    NOTE – they update their website often, and I may not be able to update in time. Check the current opening hours here.

    Practical Information

    Accessibility

    The main exhibition is down two flights of stairs, but there is a lift as well.

    Audio guides

    They have audio guides you can borrow at the museum, or you can load it up on your phone ahead of time. The ones in the museum come in English, Norwegian, French and German. The one online seems to be in English.

    The audio guide for your phone is here.

    Want to get a really good overview of the museum? You can listen to it all online here. Or wait until you actually get there.

    Guided Tours

    Guided tours are available in the summer, and I highly recommend them. During summer, they have one English-language tour a day at 11am. During winter, they offer guided tours in English and Norwegian at 1pm.

    Check the current tour info here.

    Online exhibitions

    There is a crazy amount of information online, and there are two websites that are ‘online exhibitions’.

    The first one is about Røros on the World UNESCO List. There is so much info there. Click here to view the website.

    The second website is about Sami Culture & Heritage in Røros. Why is this an online-only exhibition? I wish I could’ve seen this in person. Click here to view the website.

    Parking

    Parking is free and located just outside the museum. It’s a fairly large carpark.

    Shop

    The shop is huge and full of goodies. There are many, many books on Røros – most of them are in Norwegian, though.

    There’s a section of Sami goods, including jewellery and handicrafts. The husband surprised me with a necklace from there; he knows Sami jewellery is my favourite thing.

    You can find the Røros tweed blankets here, as well as locally made ceramics and food.

    There’s also the standard t-shirts, postcards and magnets type of souvenirs.

    The Fv30 Highway

    You can reach Røros by taking the Fv30 from near Trondheim. You can find my guide to the Fv30 by clicking the link below. 

    The Fv30 Highway
    Røros Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide
  • History, Røros

    The Fascinating History of Mining in Røros

    The Fascinating History of Mining in Røros

    I love Røros. It is one of those places that has been on my list for a while, and finally in September 2020 I got to visit. I’m in love. If I didn’t live in Bergen, this website would be called iloveroros.net.

    One of the big reasons I love Røros is the history. There is so much here. Røros is a UNESCO World Heritage Area for its preserved town centre and unique mining heritage. There’s a lot to unpack, so I’ve put it all together into one article.

    This is a summarised version of the history of mining in Røros. There is a wealth of information online, and I’ve done my best to create a list of resources for you. Additionally, the museum shop is full of books about mining. I’m very grateful for these resources, as it allows me to write my version of the mining history. I couldn’t have done it without the readily available material online. I’ve posted all the links at the bottom of this page.

    In this article...

    The Fv30 Highway

    You can reach Røros by taking the Fv30 from near Trondheim. You can find my guide to the Fv30 by clicking the link below. 

    The Fv30 Highway
    RØros Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    The Early Years

    There wasn’t much here before mining came. A South Sami community grazed their reindeer here, and there were a few scattered settlements. That’s about it.

    Interest in mining started with the Danish-Norwegian King, Christian IV. Due to all the wars with Sweden, Denmark-Norway was in desperate need of minerals, metal deposits, and money. The three m’s. There was another mine already here: Kvikne Copper Works. It was – at the time – the country’s largest mine. Assuming there were more mining opportunities, Christian IV put out a statement. In it, he said that great rewards will come to those who found some of that good stuff under the ground.

    A local man discovered copper in the ground while out reindeer hunting. After that, it took just months before the first mine – Old Storwartz – was in operation. Men came from Kvikne to help build up the mine. Operations began in August 1644 after recruiting some Norwegian soldiers, but it wasn’t great. There were bad deposits here, and the mine was only in operation for a few months. Eventually, though, the region became a good sport for mining and new mines went up all over the landscape.

    The establishment of Røros Kobberverk (Røros Copper Works) was to manage all mining activity. The company operated from 1644 until its closure in 1977.

    The Circumference

    Once it was clear that mining was the future of the region, Christian IV issued a letter of privilege to Røros Kobberverk. The letter gave them exclusive rights to minerals, forests and watercourses within an area bounded by a circle. The circle has a radius of four ancient Norwegian miles (45.2km) with a centre at the Old Storwaltz mine. This is the Circumference.

    What happened if you were one of the few farmers in that area? Well, for a fee, the farmers had to sell their products and goods to Røros Kobberverk and do work for them. But this wasn’t a bad thing; back then the farmers needed a second source of income, and the mining activity was able to provide that. The farmers who did work for the plant typically transported goods or provided timber. The farmers had one day off a week and one month off a year, which they used for their farms.

    Within the Circumference, Røros began to grow as a hub for the mining activity. it also helped that the main smelting plant, now a museum, was here.

    Today the UNESCO World Heritage Area is the Circumference. When driving in and out of Røros, you will see signs indicating where the UNESCO site begins. That’s the Circumference! How many times have I said Circumference in this piece?

    Bergstad or Røros

    Sometimes you will see Røros mentioned as ‘Bergstad’. A Bergstad is a community that is centred around mining. These mining towns had their own laws and royal agreements. The mining town was in many ways a state, responsible for everything. In Norway, there were only ever two mining towns: Kongsberg and Røros. Today Kongsberg has city status, but Røros is still a designated ‘Bergstad’. It’s more unique that way.

    How did Røros Kobberverk Work?

    This one is a little tricky. The company was a partnership with many owners, and copper was split among the owners according to the size of their share in the company. They then had to sell the copper on their own.

    I’ll explain how the workers well, worked, further down.

    Røros Kobberverk was responsible for the food supplies, education and health services within the Circumference and the surrounding area.

    The Røros website has a detailed overview of the company structure, which you can view here.

    Early Mining

    The most common minerals extracted were copper, zinc, chrome and pyrites. Copper was the dominant mineral, though.

    Early mining was very, very difficult. Throughout the 17th and 18th centuries, most work was by hand. They broke ore out of the rock by lighting enormous wood fires. The fire heats the rock and forces it to become brittle and crack. Crowbars got the ore out of the rock.

    They needed a lot of wood to do this. When there was a lack of timber, they used explosives. They drilled holes by hand, using sledgehammers, chisels and crowbars. Gunpowder went in the holes, and then they sealed the holes with clay or wooden plugs. After this, they lit the fuse. This way was easier, but having to make holes in the rock was incredibly labour intensive.

    There were many constant issues during the early years of mining. Air ventilation was a problem, as was pumping out water and transporting the ore. Carbon and sulphur gases from the fires and explosives had to leave the mines as quickly as possible. The shafts ensured some circulation of air, and the shafts also lifted out the ore and pumped water. In the early years, individuals had to carry the water out with buckets. As technology developed, though, there were horse-driven bucketing plus water wheels to supply power.

    Growth & Peak of Mining

    It was a shaky start; mining didn’t really take off until 100 years after the founding of Røros Kobberverk. In a period starting from 1740, several mines were bringing in a large number of goods.

    A good sign of the wealth of Røros Kobberverk is the church. It is from 1784 and funded by the company. It made a statement of the Company’s wealth and authority. It’s also fun to know: No other Norwegian company ever contributed so much to the royal income as Røros.

    Røros’ heyday lasted from 1740 until 1814 when Norway’s union with Denmark ended. The mines continued to be profitable until the 1860s when copper prices fell and operations became more expensive.

    Røros Skyline 😉

    Røros Grows as a Town

    The first Smeltehytta (now the museum) was built on the river that flows through today’s Røros in 1646. A clear town plan is seen on the first map of Røros from 1658. The map shows two main streets running parallel joined by linking, smaller lanes. The town today has this same layout. The climate played a huge part in the development of Røros. There was much more shelter by putting the houses close together and protecting against the winter frosts and bad weather. Most of the houses are around a central, sheltered courtyard.

    One of the main streets

    The main street in 1869 (Source)

    Røros was burned down by Swedish troops in 1678 and 1679, and the town we see today is from after these fires.

    Much of the layout of the town is based on status. On the eastern side of Storgata is where you’ll find the company executive’s homes. At the bottom of the street is the impressive General Manager’s house in a Baroque style.

    On Kjerkgata are the labourer’s houses; built on both sides of an evenly spaced street. At the top is the church.

    Haugan is a district that grew in the 17th century. It doesn’t follow the same town plan. The buildings are built more haphazardly. From the middle of the 18th century small single cottages went up – many without outhouses.

    Life as a Worker in Røros

    The majority of people who worked at Røros Kobberverk usually acquired a small farm or smallholding, and they kept animals on their property. The animals are a source of food, and a family without animals would struggle to live here. Also, by having a farm, the families had another way to make money in case it had been a bad year for mining. This was common until as late as the 1960s.

    Workers housing near the Smeltehytta

    Anyone living in Røros had to contribute to mining somehow. The women often worked as cleaners in wealthy homes, or they produced food or clothing.

    In the early years of mining, the miners worked 10-hour days 5 days a week. There was some flexibility; miners could leave when it suited them provided they work back the hours they had taken free. However, this luxury ended in 1713. After that, miners had to live at the mines in barracks for a whole week from Monday to Friday. The barracks had bunk beds along the walls and a central fire to keep them warm.

    Originally, all employed workers received the same daily wage paid out monthly. From 1720 it became more competitive, with types of work auctioned off for the lowest price. These types of auctions and contracts became common by the 1800s to reduce labour costs and improve efficiency.

    The Smelting Process at the Smeltehytta (Smelting Cabins)

    The Smeltehytta was important to copper production. Here the copper ore underwent a long and laborious smelting process. Smelting is the process of separating the good stuff from the raw ore.

    The first Smeltehytta is from 1646. Typically, the Smeltehytta were close to rivers to utilise hydropower. They were in forests as they required large amounts of timber. The two most important factors when building a Smeltehytta was that it was by a river and close to plenty of timber. The river could not freeze in the winter and had to have enough power to drive the bellows that forced air into the smelting furnaces.

    The first Smeltehytta is in Røros. Eventually, they were built all over the Circumference and surrounding area. At the peak, there were twelve Smeltehytta’s in the Circumference. It was cheaper to transport the ore to a Smeltehytta than it was to transport timber to Røros. The Røros smelter survived almost the entire length of Røros Kobberverk’s history. Today, it’s a museum – more on that below.

    The Smeltehytta at Røros

    Slag mountain in Røros. People for scale.

    You’ll see slag all over the landscape, most famously in Røros town centre. Slag is the by-product left over after a metal has been separated (i.e. smelted) from its raw ore. The most famous ‘slag heaps’ are by the Smeltehytta in Røros – they make for a great climb and photo-point today!

    Transportation & the Winter Road

    There was an enormous need for transportation; from the mine to the Smeltehytta and then onwards to the outside world.

    They did most of the transportation during winter. It was much easier to transport goods on frozen lakes and snow. The Winter Road was one of the busiest routes between Sweden and Røros. The road began in Falun, a mining town in Sweden, and went over lakes, rivers and marshlands to Røros. The trip was demanding; the towns are 400km apart (with the modern highway) and the journey could take over six weeks. If the weather was good, the sledge could travel up to 40km a day.

    The transport was done using horses and sledges, and hundreds of horses could be queuing in Røros or one of the Smeltehytta at any one time. Sledges are much easier to pull in winter.

    Because it was such a busy road, many farms and inns were established. They catered to the needs of drivers so both man and horse could find shelter and food. Along the Winter Road is a stretch of farms or inns called Saether, Holla, Korssjøen and Sevatdalen, all typical examples of wayward inns or farms.

    Today the journey takes 5.5 hours in a car. The highway mostly follows the old Winter Road.

    Modernisation of the Mining Process

    From the 1880s, Røros Kobberverk made great investments in modernising the mining process and introducing new technology. By the end of the 1800s, Røros Kobberverks was among the best mines in Europe.

    From the mid-19th century, the process of digging out the rock in the mine improved. Dynamite became commonly used from 1870 onwards. Drilling machines came into use at the end of the 19th century. Electricity came to the mines from 1897 onwards.

    Improvements were made to the smelting process using the Bessemer method, under Frenchman Mahne’s patent. Before the introduction of this process, the smelting process took many days.

    The smelting of copper was eventually centralised at the main plant in Røros and activity at the other Smeltehytta’s discontinued. Sadly the main Smeltehytta at Røros was affected by fires in 1888 and 1953 before burning down in 1975. The building has since been restored.

    A new road network was also improved during the 1800s. In 1877, the Røros Railway was completed and became of vital importance for transportation to and from the copper works.

    20th Century Decline

    The 20th century brought many challenges to Røros Kobberverk. After World War I, work came to a standstill. When it resumed, it was being subsidised by the state. Production continued during World War II, but the smelting plant had stopped until 1946.

    Immediately after the war, work was stable. A massive search for minerals was conducted from the air in 1959. The main mine, Olavsgruva, closed in 1972 and efforts were made on deposits at Lergruvbakken where zinc and copper were mined. The cost of zinc and copper was rising, and this was good for the company.

    However, in the late 1970s prices dropped and large losses began to hit Røros Kobberverk. In 1977, the Board of Røros Kobberverk found it necessary to submit a notice of bankruptcy. After 333 years of mining activity, Røros Kobberverk ended its operations. At that point, it was Norway’s oldest company.

    During its operation, a total of 110,000 tons of copper and 525,000 tons of pyrites was produced.

    UNESCO World Heritage

    Røros was inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1980. In 2010, the listing was expanded to include the Circumference.

    Here’s the reasoning:

    Røros Mining Town and Circumference is linked to the copper mines, established in the 17th century and exploited for 333 years until 1977. The site comprises the town and its industrial-rural cultural landscapes; Femundshytta, a smelter, and the Winter Transport Route. Røros contained about 2000 wooden one and two-storey houses and a smelting cabin. Many of these buildings have preserved their blackened wooden facades, giving the town a medieval appearance. Surrounded by a buffer zone, coincident with the area of privileges (the Circumference) granted to the mining enterprise by the Danish-Norwegian Crown, the property illustrates the establishment of a lasting culture based on copper mining in a remote region and harsh climate.

    “Røros is a unique mining town built exclusively of wood. The town has for 333 years been a melting pot of cultures and influences from Germany, Denmark, Sweden, Trondheim and the surrounding district. This has resulted in a wooden house environment, which represents much of Norway’s finest traditions, and is unique in our country’s industrial, social, cultural and architectural areas. The mining town of Røros and its surroundings is a characteristic example of a special traditional style of wood architecture creating a unique town 600 metres above sea level.”

    The Mines Today: What Can I See?

    With all this talk of mining, you must want to visit one by now! Here’s the modern-day practical info for what’s left and what you can see.

    Mines to Visit

    There is only one mine you can visit the inside of. That’s the Olavsgruva mine; it was in operation from 1936 to 1972. You have to visit with a guided tour.

    Click here to visit the Olavsgruva Website.

    Around Olavsgruva is a mining area where you can see the remains of other mines. Most need a short walk or hike to get there, though. I’ve marked them on the map. They are explained in detail with images on the Røros website (click here).

    Today most mines are filled with water and not accessible to visitors. Some ruins can be seen, and most require a hike to get there.

    Here’s my somewhat complete list of the mines you can hike to or easily see. I say ‘somewhat’ because I found information online to be confusing and sometimes contradictory.

    The Mines

    • Killingdal Mine. This mine was in operation from 1674 to 1986. This was one of the largest in Røros: 2.6 million tonnes of ore were extracted here. It reached a depth of 1,446m – making it one of Northern Europe’s deepest mines. It is filled with water and closed, but the area above ground is partially open. The Killingdal Fjellhotel is partly in the old crew barracks.
    • Nordgruvefeltet. This was a mining area where up to a dozen mines used to be. They are in ruins today (see this photo of one of the mines). I’ve marked the area on the map. Click here to view a Wiki page about the area (in Norwegian). This is the area where you’ll find Kongens Gruve, the most ‘in-tact’ mine in the area. You can see the walls of the old larger building and the foundations of the hoisting system. It’s marked on the map. The area does have road access, but the remains are only accessible by hiking. Click here to view images of the mining area. The Roros website has a map of the ruins. They are all in the mountains, so you have to hike here. Click here to view the map.

    Surviving Smeltehytta

    Sadly, most are in ruins today. The Røros website has a list and map of the Smeltehytta, but only in Norwegian. Here’s a mostly complete list of the Smeltehytta’s you can see in English. I say mostly complete because information online is tricky when it comes to the question: Can I go here today?

    • Eidet Smelter. This Smetehytta operated from 1834 to 1887. It was demolished in 1891 and only parts of the furnace are standing. The furnace is the best-preserved furnace left, though, so that’s something! It is considered one of the most important technical artefacts in Trøndelag and the only of its kind in Europe. Click here to visit a website about it.
    • Drågas Smelter. The remains today are a roadside stop at Hyttefossen in Ålen. You can park right at the site, but most of the remains some kind of hike. Eidet Smelter is a continuation of Drågas Smelter and in the same area.
    • Tolga Smelter. Tolga Smelter is one of the longest lasting Smeltehytta’s, in operation from 1670-1871. Today it’s the Malmplassen Gjestgård – most of the buildings are gone. The whole town of Tolga is a cute little mining town and worth visiting!
    • Femund Smelter. This smelter operated from 1743 until 1822, and today you can drive up to it. It is even a place where you can spend the night! Click here to learn about the smelter and click here to learn about spending the night. Here’s some info about a hike in the area.

    The best Smeltehytta to visit is the one in Røros. Today it is the main museum for the history of mining and the UNESCO area.

     

    Further Exploration

    That’s about it for the history of Røros. I know this was a long article; there’s just so much to talk about.

    I’m writing additional articles about Røros – mostly a walking guide and guide to the museum. There’s so much to say about this town.

    Have you been to Røros? Let me know in the comments! If you have any additional info or changes you want me to make to this article, please mention them below. This blog grows with your support.

    The Fv30 Highway

    You can reach Røros by taking the Fv30 from near Trondheim. You can find my guide to the Fv30 by clicking the link below. 

    The Fv30 Highway
    RØros Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide
  • Folldal, Gudbrandsdalen, National Tourist Roads, Road-trips, Rondane

    Drive it Yourself: Rondane National Park

    Drive it Yourself: Rondane National Park

    The Rondane National Park is incredible. When I was editing the footage for this article, I desperately wanted to get in the car and go. This is the same reaction you’ll have when looking through this article.

    The park needs no introduction; images speak for themselves. I also don’t really need to convince you why you should visit. But you should. The Rondane National Park is Norway’s first, established in 1962. A primary reason for making it a national park was to protect the famous ‘Rondane massif’ (pictures above). Also, there is a large population of wild reindeer in the mountains and ancient traps used by nomadic hunter-gatherers.

    The drive is the national scenic road for Rondane – one of Norway’s 18 national tourist roads (click here to view their site). 

    It’s not a particularly long drive and can easily be done in a morning. There are hiking trails (long and short) everywhere, so you can spend some days here if the outdoors is your thing.

    We drove through the Rondane National Park on our way from Ringebu in Gudbrandsdalen to Røros, a UNESCO World Heritage town. In this article, I cover the section from Ringebu to Folldal, and the next article will be Folldal to Røros.

    For this drive, you pass incredible views, historic sites, and small towns. It’s not touristy at all. But trust me, it’s worth doing.

    Here’s my guide for the Rondane National Scenic Drive, from Ringebu to Folldal.

    In this article...

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    View on Store

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

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    Rondane Tourist Road

    Ringebu

    This drive begins in Ringebu, a small village close to Lillehammer in the Gudbrandsdalen Valley. 

    Ringebu Travel Guide

    Venabygd

    Village

    Venabygd is a tiny town on the highway. There’s not much here – not even a sign welcoming you to the town – but you will see the church.

    Venabygd Church is from 1780.

    Venabygdsfjellet

    Mountains

    The next part we’ll be driving through is Venabygdsfjellet, a mountain area just south of the Rondana National Park. It varies between 850 and 1000m above sea level. The terrain is partly above the tree line.

    There were many farms here in ancient times, but today the area is characterised by cabins and hotels.

    Venabygdsfjellet is guaranteed snow throughout winter. There are 140km of marked ski trails. There is a competition from Høvringen in Rondane to Lillehammer called “The Troll Trail” – it is the world’s longest 1-day ski run (95km). The race takes place in early April.

    The area is very popular with hikers and cyclists in summer.

    You’ll pass some supermarkets, cafes and hotels here. Also keep an eye out for the chapel from 1979.

    Rondane National Park

    National Park

    Soon you’ll pass the official sign welcoming you to the Rondane National Park Tourist Road. We’ve made it!

    Rondane National Park is Norway’s first; created in 1962 to protect the Rondane massif, regarded as the finest alpine hiking region in Norway.

    The area has been inhabited by thousands of years, as evidenced by ancient reindeer-trapping sites and burial mounds. Rondane National Park is home to one of Norway’s oldest wild reindeer populations, with an estimated 2,000 to 4,000 in the mountains. They are not friendly like the semi-domesticated reindeer in the north, so if you encounter them walk away slowly.

    After the last Ice Age ended, climate changes allowed the reindeer to spread across Scandinavia, only to eventually be forced back to a much smaller area.

    On the mountain plateaus, there is evidence that the hunter-gatherers lived off reindeer. Large traps used to catch reindeer are found all over the park. They are constructed from stone to make holes or large fenced-in areas. Reindeer were tricked or led in.

    There are also small stone walls. They are believed to have been used as hiding places for archers waiting for prey. The earliest traps may be 3500 years old. Additionally, remains of houses from 500 to 700 AD are found in the area. Considering all of this, it’s believed that people lived and hunted here until the Black Death in the 14th century.

    After a decade of planning, Rondane was established as the first national park on 21 December 1962. It was first established as a nature protection area, but was later named a national park. In 2003, the park was enlarged from 580 to 963km2 (224 to 372 sq mi).

    More on the park later. Lets get back to driving.

    Atnbrua

    Village

    The first village in the park in Atnbrua, and there are a few things you can do here.

    Industrial Museum

    There is a museum called Atnbrufossen Vannbruksmuseum. It is all about the use of hydropower in industry here in the mountains, and it is located on Atnbru waterfall. The museum complex consists of a restored flotation plant, sawmill and hydropower plant. You can see a sawmill, sauna, drying house, timber floating plant, and a small power plant. Industrial traditions here date back to the 18th century, making it an interesting place to visit. The opening hours seem to be rather short, but they also open by appointment.

    Click here for more info on the museum. 

    War Collection

    A little past that museum is another, possibly more interesting one. The Sollia War History Collection was put together by one of the locals on a heritage farm (more on that soon). The war museum has weapons, uniforms, and items from the Norwegian resistance group ‘Milorg’ and the Norwegian Nazi party ‘Nasjonal Samling’. The owner of the museum, Jo Øvergaard, even has items from her own family’s collection as her father was part of ‘Operation Grebe’ from 1944 (click here to read about that). Jo will tell you lots of stories on your visit, if you’re interested.

    The farm, Amperhaugen, has been awaded the Olavsrosa from the Norwegian Hertiage Foundation, which is an award given to unique cultual experiences. You can spend the night at this fam. Click here to view their page.

    Again, it has very short opening hours but you can contact Jo and arrange a visit.

    Click here for more details.

    Knut Hamsun’s Cabin

    Additionally, there is a historic farm here. Practically across the street from the museum, Nordre Brænd was built in 1849 and is today still a farm but also a cabin area. Norway’s famed writer Knut Hamsun lived here for a year with his new wife Marie. He worked on the novel A Wanderer Plays with Sordin and the play Life in Violence in a cabin on the property. The cabin is still there today and you can rent it as a place to stay.

    Click here to view their website. 

    Otherwise, in Atnbrua you’ll find a supermarket.

    Solbergplassen

    Photo stop

    This is my favourite stop on the drive, simply because the view is spectacular.

    Here is where you’ll see the Rondane massif – a collection of tall barren mountains with the river flowing in front. This view has inspired many artists, but perhaps the most famous is Harald Sohlberg’s painting Winter’s Night in Rondane. After all, this stop is named after him.

    The viewing platform is interesting as well. It is built around the pine trees.

    Strømbu Rest Area

    Rest area

    If you are planning to go hiking, this is a great spot to park the car, as there are many paths leading off towards the mountains. Otherwise, if you just want to relax, there are benches, a covered area, and excellent views of the mountains.

    There is a tourist info office here, but it was closed when we visited. If they are open you can rent canoes or bikes, or they can show you short (1-2 hour) marked paths.

    If you want to learn about the history of Norwegian currency, this is the place! I know. It’s a bit weird. But there are information boards about the old banknotes in Norway. It’s only in Norwegian, but it’s not like you come to this viewpoint to read about banknotes.

    There are public bathrooms here but I must warn you: when we went, they were disgusting. The more you know!

    We walked down to the river – a short and easy walk – and took photos from there.

    Click here to view more images & info. 

    Exploring the Park

    National Park

    Much of the park’s glaciated and lichen-coated landscape is 1400m high, and 10 rough and stony peaks rise over 2000m, including Rondslottet (2178m), the highest, and Storronden (2138m). Rondanes range of wildlife includes 28 mammal species and 124 bird species.

    Rondane has a relatively mild climate, making it one of the safer areas for avoiding hiking in pouring rain. Low precipitation means less snow in the winter, but snow is still guaranteed on the mountains.

    The landscape was formed during the last Ice Age, 9,000 to 10,000 years ago. At that time large quantities of ice were formed, and it is believed the ice melted gradually. The ice melting must’ve been rapid when it happened, digging deep river valleys. There are a few small cabins here caused by rapid ice melting.

    There are no restrictions on where you can hike in the park, but please be considerate of the animal populations. It’s recommended to stay on marked trails. If you do happen upon some reindeer, slowly move away from them.

    The hiking season runs in July and August. There are guided hiking tours. Cabins you can spend the night in are scattered throughout the park if you want to spend a few days here.

    Folldal Municipality

    You cross into Folldal municipality. 

    Folldal Open Air Museum

    Museum

    The museum has a number of old farm buildings, including 18th century houses and 17th century cabins. There’s also a school building from 1898. Yes, it’s quite similar to other open-air museums, but worth stopping at if you are interested in history.

    Click here to view their website (in Norwegian only).

    Folldal

    This drive ends at Folldal, a beautiful town close to the Glomma River. 

    Folldal is a small town with a population of 526 that today focuses primarily on agriculture. The population is actually declining; between 2009 and 2019 the population fell by 5.6%.

    Long before there was a settlement here, the area was visited by nomadic hunters looking for reindeer. There are around 1,000 animal graves in Folldal, plus a mass trapping facility from the 13th century.

    According to local legend, the first man to settle here was the outlaw Torkjell Barfrost. According to the Faroese saga, Sigmundur Brestisson and his cousin Tori got lost in a snowstorm on Dovrefjell while on their way to meet Håkon Earl of Norway. They met Torkjell Barfrost and stayed with him, his wife and his daughter. They ended up staying with him for six years before moving on. Sigmundur and Tori spoke up in supoort of Torkjell, and eventually he was acquitted and became governor of the area.

    Even though Torskjell was the first man to live in Folldal, there wasn’t really a settlement until the 17th century. Folldal didn’t become a town until the 18th century, when mining started.

    Folldal’s Mining History

    Mining was the main industry in Folldal from the 18th century until 1993.

    Folldal Works (Folldal Verk) was founded in 1748, the same year the main copper mine opened. Copper, mine and zinc was all mined in Folldal. It was then transported by horse carriage to the neighbouring Alvdal municipality, where there was a smelter. In 1906, a 34km-long cable car (North Europe’s longest) was built to transport goods to the smelter.

    The main mine closed in 1941, but smelting continued using ore from other deposits until 1968. Business closed in 1993.

    Folldal Travel Guide

    The Previous Drive

    Gudbrandsdalen

    On the previous day we drove through the Gudbrandsdalen Valley to Ringebu. 

    Gudbrandsdalen

    The Next Drive

    Folldal to Røros

    After a short break in Folldal, we continue to Røros in Eastern Norway. 

    Folldal to Røros

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!