World War II

  • Hurtigruten, Kirkenes, Museums, World War II

    Andersgrotta, the Bomb Shelter Beneath Kirkenes

    Andersgrotta, the Bomb Shelter Beneath Kirkenes

    Kirkenes, a small town located about 10km (6 mi) from the Russian border, is a fascinating place to visit. It is the turning point of Norway’s Coastal Ferry (Hurtigruten & Havila), so it is easily accessible for visitors to Norway. The town itself is very sleepy today, so it’s hard to imagine that during World War II it was one of the most important places for the Nazis in their fight against the Soviets. In fact, Kirkenes is the most bombed place in Europe after Malta.

    There are two attractions in town that cover World War II history. The first is the Grenseland Museum, located a little ways out of town and covering more the history of border relations between Norway, Finland and Russia, and the second is the Andersgrotta bunker, a complex system of tunnels beneath the town itself. Andersgrotta is offered as an excursion on the Coastal Ferry but it is also possible to visit it yourself while visiting the town.

    Here’s an overview of why Andersgrotta is significant as well as what you can see on your visit.

    In this article...

    Norway's Coastal Ferry

    Kirkenes is a port of call of Norway’s coastal ferry. Find my guide for the coastal ferry by clicking the link below. 

    Norway's Coastal Ferry
    Kirkenes Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Be sure to check out our Kirkenes travel guide! Here you can find all our recommendations of things to do and see, including our self-guided road-trips. 

    Kirkenes During World War II

    After Norway was occupied by Nazis, Kirkenes became a strategic town due to its proximity to the Soviet Union. Its importance increased when Operation Barbarossa put Kirkenes right on the front lines. Additionally, Murmansk is an ice-free harbour and one of the only ones with access to the ocean, and the Allies were sending ships there to keep the Russians well-stocked to push the Nazis out of St. Petersburg and Russia. The Nazis used Kirkenes as a base to bomb these ships but also try and invade the Soviet Union. Because of these attacks, Kirkenes was bombed more than 300 times, while air raid alarms were held more than 1000 times.

    History of Kirkenes

    Andersgrotta Bunker

    This is the largest bomb shelter in Kirkenes. It was built in 1941 to protect the civilians of Kirkenes from the repeated bombings of the war. Because of the air quality, people couldn’t stay all night but would come down every time there was an alarm. Babies were born here, livestock was kept here, and people just did everything they could to survive. In total, the shelter had enough room for 2500 people. Somehow they survived down there – though it still remains a bit of a mystery.

    After the war, Kirkenes was left in ruins. These bunkers became places where people could live while waiting for their home to be built. This took a while as there aren’t many trees in Northern Norway, so much of the timber had to be imported from the south. Many of the civilians also used the caves out at the mines, approximately 10km from town. Andersgrotta was never used for mining; it is purposely built as a bomb shelter.

    Visiting Andersgrotta

    To get inside, you go down a staircase under the Norwegian flag. It is very cold inside – around 0C – and the air feels musty and damp. You hear dripping water everywhere. There is electrical lighting in there today, but during the war there was no electricity, plumbing, or ventilation systems. During the Cold War all of these were added in. You see one of the air vents when you go to the Russian monument.

    Andersgrotta

    First your guide will show you a selection of images of Kirkenes from before and after the war, explaining the destruction that took place here.

    Next you will sit down and watch a 10 minute documentary that explains what happens in Kirkenes during the war. It includes fictional footage (acting of life in Kirkenes) but also documentary footage of the Nazis, the bombing, and the Soviet Union liberating Kirkenes.

    After the movie you have a chance to walk around. The complex consists of several corridors which lead to a number of exits.

    Outside Attractions

    Andersgrotta

    Guided tours include a visit to the Russian monument that sits on top of Andersgrotta. It may seem a bit surreal to have a monument to a Russian soldier in Kirkenes, but the town was liberated by the Soviets and has maintained a close, positive relationship with the Russians ever since.

    The monument is from 1951 and shows a Red Army soldier standing on a plinth. Originally the soldier was trampling a German eagle under his foot, as a symbol of the Soviet Union’s victory over Nazi Germany, but the political climate changed and the eagle was replaced with a rock shortly before the statue was unveiled.

    Book Your Tour of Andersgrotta

    Andersgrotta is managed by Snowhotel Kirkenes. Andersgrotta is open to the public daily at 12:30pm – you can buy tickets at the entrance or on the Snowhotel website. Otherwise, other times are only available via private tour. These are booked through Snowhotel Kirkenes: https://www.snowhotelkirkenes.com/andersgrotta

    Here is the Hurtigruten excursion to Andersgrotta: https://www.hurtigruten.com.au/excursions/norway/7a-the-norwegian-border/

    Here is the Havila excursion to Andersgrotta: https://www.havilavoyages.com/excursions/the-russian-border

    It is easy to walk here. The entrance is approximately 250 metres from the town centre, though it is not marked with signs.

    Norway's Coastal Ferry

    Kirkenes is a port of call of Norway’s coastal ferry. Find my guide for the coastal ferry by clicking the link below. 

    Norway's Coastal Ferry
    Kirkenes Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Be sure to check out our Kirkenes travel guide! Here you can find all our recommendations of things to do and see, including our self-guided road-trips. 

  • Narvik, Northern Norway, Road-trips, World War II

    Drive it Yourself: E6 from Nordkjosbotn to Narvik

    Drive it Yourself: E6 from Nordkjosbotn to Narvik

    Welcome to the next part of our amazing drive from Trondheim to the Lofoten Islands! This drive was actually the turning point for us as we made our way back south to Trondheim. It was a little sad turning around; I just wanted to keep on going! Anyway, today we begin the first of three travel days on the E6 south to Trondheim.

    We actually began the drive in Finnsnes, a town across from the beautiful island of Senja. In the morning we ventured out to the Sami souvenir shop mentioned below before turning around and heading south on the E6.

    The drive close to Narvik is so beautiful! What I love is the amount of effort put into having rest areas with information about the Battle of Narvik, too. 

    Enjoy the drive!

    In this article...

    Downloadable Version of This Guide

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

    View at the Store

    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Information about facilities along the way

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the region & towns
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Facilities including supermarkets, toilets, petrol, hotels, cafes, restaurants with addresses.

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    Visit Our YouTube Channel

    The drive: E6 between Nordkjosbotn & Narvik

    Nordkjosbotn

    Village

    Nordkjosbotn (Sami name: Gárgán) is a small village located at the junction of two major highways – the E6 and the E8. The E8 leads towards Tromsø, while the E6 runs through the entire length of Norway. It is one of the major crossroads in Norway. In the village you’ll find supermarkets, petrol stations, and a small church.

    Balsfjord Municipality

    Balsfjord Municipality (Sami name: Báhccavuotna) is located close to Tromsø Municipality. It has a population of around 5,500 people and has a very low population density. It is surrounded by two major fjords – Malangen and Balsfjorden. The farmland here is very rich.

    The original inhabitants were the Sami people, but in the 1800s new settlers came from Finland. Eventually people moved up from southern Norway and settled in the area. Today there are very few traces of Sami culture. Petroglyphs have been found in the area that are 2,500 to 4,000 years old.

    The coat-of-arms represents a yellow plough on a red background, symbolising the fact that agriculture is the main source of income for municipality. The plough also symbolises that the municipality is at the northernmost border on which grain can be grown in Norway. Agriculture is mostly based on milk and meat production, and Balsfjord has the highest number of cattle, sheep and goats in Troms county.

    Målselv Municipality

    Målselv (Sami name: Málatvuomi suohkan) is a municipality in Troms County. The area was settled by farmers from southern Norway from 1788 onwards. They came here because of the large, forested areas as well as the fertile land. The valley and the municipality take its name from the river Målselva, which is well known for its salmon. The river also forms the Målselv waterfall, which has been selected as Norway’s national waterfall. One of the rarest orchids in Europe, Lysiella oligantha, is found in Målselva.

    Sami Shop Heia

    Shop

    One of my favourite places in the area is this Sami shop. Here you can buy authentic Sami handicrafts, but I love their cafe with some of the best coffee I’ve ever had – boiled over an open fire and very, very strong. 

    Øvre Divdal National Park

    National Park

    The Øvre Divdal National Park (Sami name: Dieváidvuovddi) is a 750km2 (290 sq mi) national park that opened in 1971. The intention behind establishing the park was to protect the inland valley and mountain area. The area is very popular with hiking today. Pine forests grow in the lower areas, while birch grows on the mountains. All the main predators are represented in the park, including the brown bear, wolf, wolverine and lynx. The wolverine are numerous in the area and it is also common to see reindeer (owned by Sami) and moose. The Arctic fox used to live in the area.

    The valley is the second driest in Norway, with an annual precipitation of 282mm (11.1 inches). There is no permafrost in the lower elevations of the park.

    Many Sami cultural monuments remain in the park, from pre-Christian sacrificial sites to reindeer fences. Norwegian settlement didn’t come to the area until the 18th and 19th centuries. The name Divdalen comes from the Sami word dievva, meaning ‘round and dry pile’.

    If you are considering spending some time here, I recommend spending at least one night here. Cabins are available for rent throughout the area.

    Click here to visit their official website. 

    Bardufoss

    Town

    Bardufoss (Sami name: Beardogorži) is the commercial centre for the Målselv municipality. It is located in the Målselvdalen valley near the confluence of the Barduelva and Målselva Rivers. The population is 2,600.

    Bardufoss is known in Norway for its association with the military. The Bardufoss Airport is both a civilian and military airport suitable for landing bomber aircraft, fighter jets and other heavy planes.

    Many people who live in Bardufoss are associated with the Armed Forces. The two military camps Rusta and Heggelia, with the common name Bardufoss Camp, constitute the military centre of gravity in Troms together with Maukstadmoen camp in Øverbygd and Setermoen camp in Bardu. Between Rusta and Heggelia camps is Istindportalen, which is a welfare building for the Armed Forces. It houses the welfare service and equipment for the soldiers as well as a cinema, sports hall, and kiosk for civilians.

    A street in Bardufoss is called General Fleischer’s Veg, in honour of Carl Gustav Fleischer. Carl Gustav Fleischer was a Norwegian general and the first land commander to win a victory against the Germans in World War II.

    The main forest here is made up of Downy birch, Scot’s pine, aspen and grey alder. However, Norway spruce has been planted in the plantations since the middle part of the 20th century for economic reasons (timber).

    The climate in Bardufoss is more continental, and it has reliable snow cover in the winter while the summers are warmer than Tromsø in the summer.

    Bardufoss has an upper secondary school with practical subjects including aeronautical subjects, construction subjects and electrical subjects. The Armed Forces College is located here with courses at the college and university levels.

    Battle of Narvik 1940 Memorial & General Carl Flesicher

    Located just off the E6 in Bardufoss is a memorial about the importance of the Bardufoss Airport in the Narvik Campaign in 1940. 

    This monument at Bardufoss is one of the six memorials erected by the Norwegian Army commemorating the first defeat for Nazi Germany during World War II.

    Bardufoss Airport was important during the Campaign of Narvik and was an important aim of the German advance northwards.

    The street is named in memory of Carl Fleischer, a General in the Norwegian Army at the outbreak of World War II. He was crucial to the early successes of the military in the Battle of Narvik and is credited with coordinating the French, Polish, British and Norwegian forces in recapturing Narvik on the 28th of May. Narvik was the first major allied infantry victory in the Second World War. Unfortunately, the Allies left Narvik due to the German Invasion of France on the 10th of May 1940 and without the support the Norwegians couldn’t hold Narvik. The Germans reoccupied Narvik on the 9th of June. General Fleischer followed King Haakon VII and the government to the United Kingdom.

    During his exile, he built up a Norwegian infantry brigade in Scotland, but he soon got at odds with the Norwegian political leadership due to his stubbornness. He became controversial in factions of the cabinet due to his support of British commando raids on the Norwegian coast. Likely because of his attitudes, he was bypassed when the government-in-exile recreated the post of commander in chief of the Norwegian Armed Forces. Instead, Fleischer was told he would go to Canada and be the commander there. Apart from the Royal Norwegian Air Forces training base near Toronto, which already had a leader, there were no Norwegian forces in Canada. Fleischer took this as an insult and humiliation, and he committed suicide on the 19th of December 1942.

    Still disputed today, it is thought one of the reasons for sending him to Canada was that he favoured coastal raids against Norway to hamper German use of the occupied nation. He also wanted to build substantial army forces abroad and employ them in operations against the German occupying forces, something that was in direct conflict with the more passive strategy favoured by the government in exile. When General Fleischer’s ashes were brought back to Norway after the war, the Labour government denied him a state funeral. When a monument was raised in Harstad, which was attended by the King, the same lack of respect was shown by the Labour Party.

    Bardu Municipality

    Bardu (Northern Sami: Bearddu suohkan) is a small municipality in Troms Country with a population of around 4,000. The Norwegian name of the municipality has been Norwegianised from the Sami name, which means “long and steep mountainside”. The coat-of-arms represent a black wolverine on a gold background, symbolising the rich wildlife in the area.

    Norway’s largest military garrison is located at Setermoen, the administrative centre for Bardu. The military is the municipality’s largest employer, and more than 1,000 young soldiers perform their duty service here every year.

    The world’s most northern zoo, Polar Park, is in the southern part of the municipality.

    Setermoen

    Village

    Setermoen is the main town in Bardu municipality and has a population of around 2,400. Military education was established here in 1898 because of its strategic location in a valley surrounded by mountains. Today it is one of the oldest military camps in Norway, and in many ways the Norwegian Armed Forces has shaped Setermoen and the community through its presence. About 1,000 soldiers and 500 soldiers are stationed here, making it the largest garrison in Norway.

    Click here to visit the Norwegian Army’s website about Setermoen (it has some great pictures!)

    Bardu Bygdetun

    Open-air museum

    Bardu Bygdetun is an open-air museum that contains buildings mostly from the 1860s, arranged to show a historic farm and village. The main building is a farmhouse from 1868, but another interesting building is the school room that was built in the early 20th century to accommodate the 8-10 school students in the district.

    The museum is only open in August, where you’ll find staff dressed up, coffee and food, and other events.

    Click here to visit their website (in Norwegian).

    Polar Park

    Animal Park

    Polar Park is an animal park that specialises in Nordic fauna, including Norway’s four largest predators: brown bear, lynx, wolf, and wolverine. Other animals include moose, muskox, red deer, and reindeer.

    The park is open every day and they also have accommodation options close by.

    Click here to visit their website (in English). 

    Lavangen Municipality

    Lavangen (Sami name: Loabák) is a tiny municipality in the southern part of Troms County; the population is only 1,000! The name comes from the fjord nearby and is from the Old Norse words meaning “leaf fjord”. The coat-of-arms represents gold-coloured birch leaves on a red background, representing how the area was settled by Norwegians, Sami and Kvens. Over 20% of the population have a Sami background; they are mostly descendants of Swedish reindeer herding Sami.

    General Fleischer Memorial & Lapphaugen

    Memorial

    Shortly after driving through the village of Fossbakken is a monument about the Battle of Narvik in 1940. It includes a memorial to General Carl Fleischer as well as some information about the fighting that took place in the area.

    This is the site where the German troops advancing north were stopped by Norwegian forces. The Germans never again resumed the offensive in Narvik. The Germans were held back by a blizzard, which made for zero visibility and they had to stop here at Lapphaugen.

    Gratangen Municipality

    Gratangen (Sami name: Rivttága suohkan) is a small municipality in the southern part of Troms County. The population in the municipality is only around 1,000, with the main village being Årstein.

    Gratangen was the site of the Battle of Gratangen, one of the first battles between the Germans and the Norwegians during the Narvik Campaign in 1940. The first attack was a huge failure as the German counter-attacked unprepared Norwegians, blunting the first Norwegian advance. This battle was, for Norwegians, their first serious lesson in the art of war. After this battle, the bitterness caused by the German ruthlessness – particularly the use of civilians as human shields – ensured that the Norwegian’s wouldn’t hesitate to fire on the enemy again.

    Øse

    Memorial

    This memorial is located at a site called Øse, which was the site where fighting took place between the 1st and 14th of May 1940. The site is a strategically important mountain pass that the Germans were using. This is where the Norwegians fought alongside the French for the first time in the war. The goal was to clear the valley and mountain of German positions. The German troops put up a strong defence, and the area was not recaptured until the 7th of May. During the attack, the soldiers witnessed German air raids on the red-cross-labelled hospital ship, Dronning Maud, in the nearby fjord, and 19 people were killed when the ship sunk.

    Nordland County

    We cross into Nordland county. 

    Narvik Municipality

    We have now crossed into Narvik municipality. We’ll talk more specifically about the town later. The municipality is fairly large and is located in the northernmost part of Nordland county. The population is around 22,000, and it has grown by 18% over the last 10 years. The coat-of-arms represents the mountain Stetind, a well-known mountain peak in the area.

    Most of the municipality is around the Ofotfjorden and the mountain peaks here reach as high as 1,700 metres (5,600ft). Forests cover the lower parts of the mountains, but near the summits snow can stay for most of the year. Narvik is the best-known area in northern Norway for alpine skiing; some of the slopes start on top of the mountains and end near the town centre. Wreck diving attracts divers to the area as there are a lot of wrecks in the harbour.

    The economy is still largely based around iron ore, but there are some high-tech businesses in Narvik including Natach and the largest research institute in Northern Norway, Norut Narvik. Narvik was one of the first areas in the world to be affected by the financial cricis of 2007-2008 as it had invested in Citigroup securities. Narvik lost the equivalent of $18 million USD in August 2007 and the Norwegian government refused to bail them out, so Narvik was forced to implement severe budget cuts.

    Bjerkvik

    Village

    Bjerkvik is a small village with a population of 1,159. It has the European Highway 6 and the European Highway 10 running through it, making it a major junction between Harstad, Narvik and Tromsø.

    During World War II, Bjerkvik was almost destroyed by the bombardment of gunfire from allied warships that caused significant civilian casualties. A landing was conducted in the area by Franco-British forces, pushing the German forces several miles away.

    During a NATO exercise in 1986, sixteen Norwegian soldiers died in an avalanche just east of the town. Later, in 2006, two grenadiers from the Telemark battalion died of a tank accident during another NATO exercise. The tank they operated went through the ice on a swamp, and only two of the four crew managed to get out alive. The Commission of Inquiry concluded that it was human failure on the part of the crew who operated the tank. Also, they found that the crew were using old maps and that the Armed Forces had been warned against moving off the road due to little snowfall and bad ice.

    Ofotfjord

    Fjord

    The Ofotfjord is an inlet of the Norwegian Sea and a fjord that Narvik is built around. At 78km (48 mi), the Ofotfjord is Norway’s 12th longest fjord. It has depths of up to 553m (1814ft), and the mountains around the fjord reach peaks of 1500m (4900ft).

    In the fjord are huge quantities of herring staying in the fjord in the winter. The fish attract a lot of whales, notably orca. Lobsters have been occasionally observed in the fjord, making them the northernmost lobsters in the world. Cod and coalfish is the most common fish species throughout the year, while mackerel is common between July and September. White-tailed eagles and Eurasian otters are common in and around the fjord.

    The Ofotfjord was the scene of several naval battles during the Battles of Narvik in World War II. The fjord today is very popular among divers, though some of the shipwrecks are declared war graves and thus you cannot dive to them. The German destroyer Georg Thiele is still visible from the railway as it sits in the Ofotfjord. See pictures here. 

    Hålogaland Bridge

    Bridge

    This bridge crosses the Rombaksfjorden and is the second-longest bridge span in Norway. It was built to shorten the drive on the E6 between Narvik and Bjkerkvik. Financing for the bridge came from a mix of state grants and toll roads. At the time of its construction, it was the longest suspension bridge within the Arctic Circle and was featured on the Science Channel show Building Giants. The bridge officially opened on 9 December 2018.

    Narvik

    We have now arrived in Narvik! A detailed overview of Narvik can be found on the travel guide section of The Hidden North. 

    Narvik Travel Guide

    Continue the drive

    The E6 between Narvik and Mo i Rana

    Continue on the E6 south to Mo i Rana. On this part of the drive, you cross the Arctic Circle!

    Narvik to Mo i Rana

    Previous Drive

    Senja Tourist Road

    See the previous day’s drive on the Senja Tourist Road. 

    Senja Tourist Road

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Bodø, Norway's Coastal Road, Road-trips, World War II

    Drive it Yourself: The Coastal Road Day 5 – Forøy to Bodø

    Drive it Yourself: The Coastal Road Day 5 – Forøy to Bodø

    The Coastal Road that runs from Brønnøysund to Bodø is one of Norway’s 18 national tourist roads. At 433km (269 mi), it is also the longest of all the tourist roads. You can’t do it in one day: some websites will recommend up to a week. In June 2021 Sean (the husband) and I did the coastal road in three days. It definitely felt quick and we couldn’t make all the detours we wanted, but we did it!

    I’ve put together a guide breaking down the coastal road. My guide includes the history & everyday life of the region, plus options for your own customisations. 

    Kystriksveien vs. Helgelandskysten

    The road has two names, and this can be pretty confusing. Kystriksveien begins in Steinkjer just outside Trondheim and provides more options for detours to the islands. 

    On the other hand, Helgelandskysten begins in Holm just south of Brønnøysund, where my guide begins. It features more-so on the one highway, known as the Fv17. 

    When driving the road, the brown tourist signs will follow the path of the Helgelandskysten national tourist road, which is on the Fv17. However, you can get a free guide online for the Kystriksveien. 

    Both roads end in Bodø. 

    Highlights of today’s section

    • This stretch of road is probably the most scenic part of the whole drive. We’ll pass steep snowy mountains, a glacier, and beautiful fjords
    • There is plenty to see on this road – Svartisen glacier, Gildeskål historic site, and Salstraumen maelstrom.

    In this article...

    Download this Guide

    All of our guides can be downloaded via our online store. 

    Download this guide to have it as a PDF ready to go for your road-trip!

    All downloadable guides come with an interactive Google Map for easier navigation. 

    View on Store

    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Information about facilities along the way

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the region & towns
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Facilities including supermarkets, toilets, petrol, hotels, cafes, restaurants with addresses.
    • Interactive Google Map for easier navigation

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    Visit Our YouTube Channel

    The drive: Forøy to Bodø

    Forøy

    Village

    Forøy is a small village with several camping grounds and cabins for rent. It’s on the Fv17, making it a convenient place to begin today’s drive!

    You may or may not be staying in this area – we found it to be the easiest place to split the drive! You’re close to Svartisen glacier and some lovely hiking trails. Otherwise, Ørnes is another popular spot to spend the night. 

    Braset Picnic Area

    Scenic Overlook

    We are at the Braset picnic area, which is one of the best places to get a photo of Svartisen glacier. Svartisen is Norway’s second largest glacier, covering around 370km2. It used to be one continuous glacier, but from the 18th century it has been split in two: we are seeing the western glacier. The part of Svartisen you can see from here is Engabreen, one of the tongues of Svartisen glacier. Engabreen ends at the lowest point of any glacier on the European mainland, at 20m (66ft) above sea level.

    In 1992, the Norwegian Water Resources and Energy Directorate established a glacier laboratory, the ‘Svartisen subglacial laboratory’ the only one of its kind in the world. It is in a tunnel under Engabreen, and the researchers can see the underside of glacier. They take samples of the old ice and can get an understanding of how glaciers move. To access the underside of the glacier, researchers use hot water to melt a cave to get into the ice. The ice contracts quickly – in about 24 hours it’ll be cover.

    Svartisen is being affected by climate change. From 1930 to 1960 Engabreen retreated by about two kilometres in length and lost about 200m of thickness. It increased again between the 1970s and 1990s. As of 2010, the glacier arm has retreated over 100m. In total, over the last 100 years Svartisen has largely diminished. This has led to the emergence of land and water that has been under ice for thousands of years. Life forms have been established here.

    Near here is a ferry that will take you right up to the glacier in the summer months. You’ll see signs shortly after leaving this parking spot. On the other side, it is possible to go regular hiking or glacial hiking with a guide. Bikes can also be rented from the ferry pier.

    For information on ferry times, click here: https://www.engenbreenskyss.no/ruteinformasjon/

    Svartisen Tunnel (7.4km)

    Tunnel

    The tunnel is from 1986; before then, there was a ferry to take you to Ørnes. At the time when it opened, it was Norway’s longest tunnel. Today, it is the fourth-longest tunnel in Nordland county. It was also the first in Norway to be made with the use of a tunnel boring machine – the tunnel doesn’t have a centre line as it is rather narrow.

    Glomfjord

    Town

    Glomfjord is an industrial village located at the end of the Glomfjorden. The village is based around the Glomfjord hydroelectric power plant. Norsk Hydro began construction for fertilizer production here in 1912, with power production beginning in 1920. The facilities were bought by the state in 1918 but leased to Hydro in 1947. Today there is a large industrial park here with many industries.

    During World War II, the area was of importance to the occupying German forces due to the production of heavy water. The sabotage operation Operation Muskedunder took place here. Twelve commandos from England, Canada and Norway came ashore and carried out a sabotage operation against Glomfjord Kraftverk’s turbine hall. After the operation, the Germans gave up the development of an aluminium plant here. Eight of the saboteurs were arrested during the operation; the other four made it over the mountains to Sweden.

    The Glomfjorden is 21km (13 mi) long and varies from 1km to 3km (0.6 – 1.8 mi) wide.

    Neverdal

    Village

    Neverdal is a small village just outside Ørnes. The village has a supermarket, café, kindergarten, and a boating association. Some of the ladies in the village have started a shop for their handicrafts, called Krambua.The Neverdal School closed in 2019 and the pupils then had to travel to school in Ørnes. There is a private school in Neverdal. There are a lot of sport activities in Neverdal. Every May, the village hosts the Neverdal tournament, where around 50 teams register and play over one weekend.

    During World War II, there was a prison camp here with around 120 prisoners, mostly Russian and Ukrainian prisoners of war. There are bunker facilities in Neverdal as well as cannon positions. The students at the old Neverdal School wrote a book about Neverdal during World War II. 

    Ørnes Travel Guide

    Ørnes was originally a homestead and farm. In 1794, the then owner Elling Pedersen, received a permit to run an inn on the site. The homestead grew into a trading place and eventually a market town. Some of the buildings from the 1800s remain, including several dwellings, fisherman’s cabins, boathouses, and barns. You can find them in the town centre: the old homestead is a museum called Ørnes handelsted. You can learn more about the museum on their website: https://nordlandsmuseet.no/ornes-handelssted

    Today Ørnes is one of the stops for Hurtigruten, and it is often named the most beautiful approach to port on the entire Hurtigruten journey. If travelling north, Ørnes is the port where they begin the Arctic circle ceremony. 

    Ørnes Travel Guide

    Reipa

    Village

    Reipå is the largest fishing harbour in Meløy municipality. Agriculture also takes place in the village. The local church, Fore Church, is from 1909 and is built in a neo-gothic, long church style. The church is a concert venue during the ‘Summer Day’ festival in Meløy.

    The village has a huge focus on being environmentally friendly, and the local school was received a Green Badge for its efforts to better the environment.

    Gildeskål Municipality

    Gildeskål Municipality is part of the Bodø region and the traditional district of Salten. The name comes from an old farm called Gildeskål, which is a famous historic site. We’ll go there on this drive.

    The municipality is primarily an agricultural and fishing municipality, and aquaculture is the largest industry.

    Ureddplassen

    Photo stop

    This is a scenic photostop and rest place with a view over the fjord towards the open sea. On a very clear day, you can see the Lofoten Wall on the horizon. Ureddplassen is also a memorial place, and there’s a monument here for those who left their lives when the submarine ‘Uredd’ hit a mine during World War II.

    You’ll find some public restrooms and a picnic bench here.

    Storvik

    Photo stop

    We are passing the rest stop Storvika. At Storvika you’ll see a stone vault bridge that connects the rest area with a sandy beach. It’s a nice spot to stop for photos.

    https://www.nasjonaleturistveger.no/en/routes/helgelandskysten?attraction=Storvika

    Gildeskål

    Town/Detour

    The churchyard consists of a medieval church of stone from the 12th century, the Gildeskål main church from 1881, the old rectory from the 18th century and two old storehouses.

    There have been people here for at least 1,000 years. The church was historically in the centre of the village. Based on the farm name and finds of objects and burial mounds from the Viking Age, it has been assumed that the church may have been a gathering place in pre-Christian times. The name Gildeskål can also refer to a meeting house or a guild hall. It is not known how old the church really is.

    The property today is maintained by the Nordland Museum. There are exhibitions about the place’s history, religious life, church customs and folk life. The white and red wooden buildings are the Gildeskål vicarage. These buildings are from around 1750.

    The Gildeskål Main Church is built in a neo-Gothic style from 1881. The old Gildeskål church is a medieval building in stone. It’s believed to be from the 12th century, though it is first mentioned in written sources from 1589.

    The cultural landscape around the churchyard is untouched by recent development. Burial mounds, old stone mounds and the old church path are examples of what has been preserved in the area. From the church hill there is an excellent view of the islands, shipping lanes, and flora in the area.  

    Visiting Gildeskål

    Bodø Municipality

    Bodø Municipality is the county capital for Nordland. Most of the population for the municipality lives around Bodø city as well as Saltstraumen, two places we’ll visit on this drive. The coat-of-arms reflects the midnight sun and is based on an old coat-of-arms from 1889.

    Saltstraumen

    Tidal Current

    Salstraumen is one of the strongest tidal currents in the world.

    I cover Saltstraumen in a separate article. 

    Godøystraumen

    Tidal Current

    Godøystraumen is a lesser known maelstrom near Saltstraumen. There is a carpark to the left of the road if you want to stop and take photos. A lot of people come here to go fishing. 

    Bodø

    We have arrived at our final destination, Bodø. You can find a comprehensive overview of Bodø on my dedicated travel guide page. 

    Bodø Travel Guide

    Continue the drive

    Lofoten Islands: Å to Svolvær

    After finishing the coastal road, why not take the ferry from Bodø to Moskenes and do the Lofoten Tourist Road?

    Lofoten Tourist Road

    Previous Route

    Norway's Coastal Road Part 4: Sandnessjøen to Forøy

    The previous day, we drove from Sandnessjøen to Forøy on Norway’s Coastal Road. 

    Sandnessjøen to Forøy

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Central Norway, Norway's Coastal Road, Road-trips, Sandnessjoen, World War II

    Drive it Yourself: The Coastal Road Day 4 – Sandnessjøen – Forøy

    Drive it Yourself: The Coastal Road Day 4 – Sandnessjøen – Forøy

    The Coastal Road that runs from Brønnøysund to Bodø is one of Norway’s 18 national tourist roads. At 433km (269 mi), it is also the longest of all the tourist roads. You can’t do it in one day: some websites will recommend up to a week. In June 2021 Sean (the husband) and I did the coastal road in three days. It definitely felt quick and we couldn’t make all the detours we wanted, but we did it!

    I’ve put together a guide breaking down the coastal road. My guide includes the history & everyday life of the region, plus options for your own customisations. 

    Kystriksveien vs. Helgelandskysten

    The road has two names, and this can be pretty confusing. Kystriksveien begins in Steinkjer just outside Trondheim and provides more options for detours to the islands. 

    On the other hand, Helgelandskysten begins in Holm just south of Brønnøysund, where my guide begins. It features more-so on the one highway, known as the Fv17. 

    When driving the road, the brown tourist signs will follow the path of the Helgelandskysten national tourist road, which is on the Fv17. However, you can get a free guide online for the Kystriksveien. 

    Both roads end in Bodø. 

    Highlights of today’s section

    • This stretch of the road is pure nature: there aren’t many towns or settlements that we pass today, but the scenery is absolutely stunning.
    • On one of the ferries, we cross the Arctic Circle! You will see a marker to indicate where the Arctic Circle is.
    • For those interested in World War II history, we pass one of the remaining coastal forts: Grønsvik

    In this article...

    Download this Guide

    All of our guides can be downloaded via our online store. 

    Download this guide to have it as a PDF ready to go for your road-trip!

    All downloadable guides come with an interactive Google Map for easier navigation. 

    View on Store

    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Information about facilities along the way

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the region & towns
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Facilities including supermarkets, toilets, petrol, hotels, cafes, restaurants with addresses.
    • Interactive Google Map for easier navigation

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    Visit Our YouTube Channel

    The drive: Sandnessjøen to Forøy

    Sandnessjøen

    Sandnessjøen is a small town on Norway’s coast. Here you’ll find a cosy town centre, some incredible murals, and even some Viking history!

    Sandnessjøen Travel Guide

    Helgeland Bridge

    Bridge

    The Helgeland Bridge is a cable-stayed bright that crosses the Leirfjorden between the mainland and the island of Alsta (where Sandnessjøen is).

    Facts:

    • Built 1989 – 1991
    • Officially opened in July 1991
    • Construction cost 200 million kr
    • Was a toll bridge until 23 June 2005
    • 1,065m (3,494ft) long
    • 12 spans – the longest is 425m (1394ft)
    • Maximum clearance below the sea is 45m (148ft)
    • Foundations extend to a depth of 31m (102ft)
    • In 2010, it was named Norway’s most beautiful bridge

    Leirfjord

    Population (2020): 2294

    Population density 5.1 inhabitants per square kilometre (13 sq/mi).

    Population has increased by 7.2% over the previous 10 years.

    The name comes from the Leirfjorden. The old name of the fjord is probably just Leiri, derived from the river Leira, which has its mouth at the end of the fjord. Leirr means ‘clay’. The Leirfjord is 20km (12 mi) long.

    The coat of arms represents forestry and agriculture in the municipality. Those are the main industries, along with fish processing.

    Levang - Nesna Ferry

    Ferry

    Levang is a small settlement. We are here to take the ferry to Nesna. 
    Timetable (PDF)

    Nesna

    Nesna is a small town with a population of 1761 spread over the municipality. The town has a long history of education, and one of the first higher education centres for teachers was here. The college, Nesna University College, is still in the town.

    Nesna Church is from 1880, though the earliest existing church is from 1589. Nesna is one of the ports of call on the Hurtigruten: the northbound ferry arrives at 5:30pm and the southbound at 11:15pm.

    Roadside Stops

    Scenic Overlooks

    The stretch of road between Nesna and Myklebustad is gorgeous. The best photo stops are on the opposite side of the road, and the best views are behind you. Trust your instinct and stop as much as possible!

    Rana Municipality

    This is the third largest municipality in Northern Norway (4,460km2 or 1,720 sq mi).

    Population 26,083 (2021) with a population density of 6.2 inhabitants per sq km (16/sq mi).

    Population has increased by 3.6% over the past 10 years.

    Most of the population lives in Mo i Rana.

    The name Rana is either Norse or Sami origin. It may come from the Norse river name Raðund, with Raðr meaning ‘fast’. The name is also associated with the Ume Sami legend of Sala Niejta (“daughter of the sun”) and Rana Niejta (“daughter of the earth”). In that case, Rana was the summer’s green ground for the reindeer husbandry. A Sami settlement near the Swedish border was called “Ranbyen”.

    The municipality is located just south of the Arctic circle, on the southern side of the Saltfjellet mountains. The main city Mo i Rana is so close to the Arctic Circle that parts of the sun are continuously over the horizon from early June to early July. There is no true polar night, though. There is often a lot of snow here in the winter, while summer days are among the warmest in Northern Norway.

    Rana municipality is rich in iron ore and has an industrial history dating back to 1799. The coat-of arms represent the forest (green) and the wealth of minerals (yellow). The Mo Industrial Park is from 1991 and was a result of the restructuring of the Norwegian Ironworks.

    Sjona Church

    Church

    On the right is Sjona Church. This church is from 1896 and was built as a small chapel. In 2003, the chapel was upgraded to full parish church status. It seats about 170 people. 

    Lurøy Municipality

    The municipality has a population of 1,890 with a density of 7.3 inhabitants per square kilometre (19/sq mi). The population has decreased by 0.5% over the last 10 years.

    Lurøy municipality is located just south of the Arctic Circle. The Lurøygården farm on the island of Lurøya is more than 200 years old and has a renaissance-style garden.

    Stokkvågen

    Village

    Stokkvågen is where you can take a ferry out to the islands that are part of Lerøy municipality. You don’t take a ferry here – keep going straight!

    Grønsvik Coastal Fort

    Historic Site

    The Grønsvik coastal fort was built by Soviet prisoners of war in the period 1942 to 1945 as part of the Atlantic Wall. The Atlantic Wall was designed to protect the German occupied territory from the British and American attacks.

    The main task of the fort was to defend the fjord areas towards Mo i Rana and Mosjøen, thus protecting the main road (now the E6) and the Nordlandsbanen (Nordland Railway) from attack.

    The main equipment at the Grønsvik fortress was four 155mm field cannons of French origin. The fort had ship cannons and could follow sea targets.

    After the war, the fort was subject to major damage. Most of the equipment was repurposed, while the cannons were melted down.

    Today it has been partly rebuilt and is now a museum. The exhibitions inside educated about World War II in this part of Norway. Outside you can follow marked trails to explore the ruins of the fort. There are information boards explaining what everything was. There is a memorial to the 77 Soviet and 65 Polish prisoners of war who were forced to participate in the construction of the fort.

    The indoor exhibitions are open in summer, while the surrounding area is open and free to walk around throughout the year.

    Kleivhalsen

    Scenic Overlook

    Park your car here and walk up the hill to get some amazing photos.

    Kilborghavn - Jektvik

    Ferry

    The ferry journey takes a little over an hour. Normally the staff onboard will announce when you cross the Arctic Circle, and you’ll see the globe by the water!


    Timetable (PDF)

    Ågskardet - Forøy

    Ferry

    It’s time for the last ferry of the day! This ferry takes you to Forøy, where the day’s tour ends. 

    We spent the night at a nearby campground before continuing north to our final destination, Bodø. 


    Timetable (PDF)

    Continue the drive

    Norway's Coastal Road Part 5: Forøy to Bodø

    Be sure to take the final stretch of the Coastal Road, which goes all the way to Bodø.

    Forøy to Bodø

    Previous Route

    Norway's Coastal Road Part 3: Brønnøysund - Sandnessjøen

    The previous day, we drove from Brønnøysund to Sandnessjøen on the second part of the coastal road. 

    Brønnøysund to Sandnessjøen

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Trondheim, World War II

    Visiting the Falstad Centre, one of the Most Important WWII Centres in Norway

    Visiting the Falstad Centre, one of the Most Important WWII Centres in Norway

    I am always interested in visiting World War II sites, and when roadtripping around Norway I try to visit some of them. The Falstad Centre has been on my list of a while, mostly because it is one of the only prison camps that is still somewhat standing. Norway did have a number of prison camps across the country, but efforts were made to tear them down after the war. At Falstad, you can see the main building still. So, when Sean and I did our Coastal Roadtrip from Trondheim to Senja, we included a stop here.

    The Falstad Centre today is a national memorial site. There are two sites to visit: the Falstad prison camp and the Falstad woods. Additionally, the Falstad Centre has some indoor exhibitions chronicling the use of the camp and occupation of Norway. When we did our Coastal Roadtrip, we only visited the outside (closed due to COVID). Still, they have put up some information boards outside so it is definitely worth visiting. Here’s what we saw when we visited Falstad, plus some information about the history of the camp.

    In this article...

    The E6 Highway

    The Falstad Centre is located on the E6, Norway’s main highway. You can find my guide to the E6 by clicking the link below. 

    The E6 Highway
    Trondheim Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    History of Falstad Centre

    The Camp's Early Use

    If driving from the E6 (European Highway 6), the first stop will the prison camp. Today all that remains is the yellow administration building; most of the wooden barracks were torn down at the end of the war. The commandants house is still visible, too. Parking is free outside, and you will find some information boards outside with images of what the camp used to look like.

    Originally, Falstad was a boarding school for ‘troubled’ boys. The site was originally a farm called Nordre Falstad (Falstad was the farmers name), but the boarding school bought the property in 1895. The school’s purpose was to serve the needs of the ‘misguided’ rather than criminal boys. While at school, they were not only educated but made to do manual labour jobs. Around fifty boys lived here ranging in age from 10 to 18 years old.

    Nazi Germany invaded Norway on the 9th of April 1940. The Nazi German authorities first came to Falstad in August 1941 with plans to make it a centre for the ‘Lebensborn’ program in Norway. The Lebensborn program was an initiative to raise the birth rate of Aryan children amongst ‘racially pure’ parents. In total, Norway had 9 Lebensborn centres – the highest number outside of Germany.
    The site was not used for the Lebensborn program. Instead, they saw its use as a concentration camp. Just a month after their visit, Falstad accepted its first prisoners.

    Prisoners & Life at Falstad

    It is not known how many prisoners passed through here; the camp authorities burned what documents they could before the liberation in 1945. However, estimates are that at least 4,500 prisoners passed through Falstad. Many of them were prisoners of war, and in total at least 13 countries passed through here. The largest group were Yugoslav prisoners. The main characteristic of the camp was forced, hard, and largely meaningless labour. The period between spring 1942 and the autumn of 1943 is the most brutal time in the history of the camp. The prisoners had to work at high speed as slave labourers on pointless projects.

    Jewish Deportation

    Falstad was also used as a transit camp for the Jewish population facing deportation. Trondheim had a sizeable Jewish population that were rounded up and eventually deported to Auschwitz. Falstad was the place they would come to before being sent to Oslo, where the ship was waiting. At least eight Jews were murdered during detention at Falstad.

    Post-war Use

    When the war ended, Falstad was used as a prison for former members of the Norwegian Nazi party as well as prisoners suspected of having supported the Nazis. Then, until the 1990s, it was used as a school once again.

    Use of the Building Today

    After the school closed in the late 1990s, the building became a memorial site and centre for human rights. The Falstad Centre is now used for education and documenting the wartime history of prisoners of war and human rights.

    If you want to learn more about the use of Falstad as a prison camp, I recommend visiting the indoor exhibitions. The Falstad Centre exhibitions focus on the history of the Falstad prison camp and particularly the story and fate of the prisoners. The exhibition also shows the rise of Nazism, the Holocaust, and how the Nazi camp system operated. The Falstad Centre has also made a digital reconstruction of the camp so you can see how it looked during the war.

    Visiting the Falstad Woods (Falstadskogen)

    After visiting the yellow building, get in your car and drive a few minutes to the next stop: the Falstad Woods. Park your car across the street and then head over to the large memorial statue. The memorial depicts prisoners about to be executed by German authorities. It is by the sculptor Odd Hilt, who was a prisoner at Falstad and managed to escape to Sweden. The prisoners have clear facial features, while the soldiers have faceless, anonymous features.

    The Falstad Woods is one of the most sombre World War II sites in Norway. The woods were an execution site by the German occupation authorities, particularly for prisoners of war. The first executions took place on the 7th of March 1942. When the war was coming to an end, the Germans took some of the bodies and sunk them in the Trondheimsfjord. Additionally, some prisoners were executed at nearby fortresses. It’s not known exactly how many people were executed here. On top of that, it’s believed that not all the bodies have been found in the woods yet.

    The victims were at least 43 Norwegians, 74 Yugoslavs, and more than 100 Soviet citizens. The prison camp was hardest on the Yugoslavs, who were often executed soon after arriving at the camp. Many of the Norwegian victims were members of the resistance movement. At least 200 people were executed here, but those at the centre now believe that number to be low. They are still making efforts to find, exhume, and properly bury the victims. A list of some of the known victims are on Lokalhistoriewiki.no (in Norwegian).
    https://lokalhistoriewiki.no/wiki/Falstad_fangeleir

    Information about the victims can also be found in the Falstad Centre.

    You can walk through the woods today. On the ground you will find markers; these state that someone is buried there. Please take extra care in staying on the path; the markers are not always so obvious.

    It is possible to walk between the Falstad Centre and the Falstad Woods; a marked path will take you past the graves and memorial. The trail is about 2km long one way. There are 22 bridges that you’ll pass along the way. Maps can be collected from the Falstad Centre.

    Practical Information

    Everything you need to know about visiting the Falstad Centre can be found on their excellent website, https://falstadsenteret.no/en/frontpage. I would recommend booking a guided tour to truly understand how this area was used as a prison camp. The Falstad Centre offers guided tours in English and Norwegian.

    The museum has information in multiple languages, including English and Norwegian. The Falstad Centre has also digitally recreated the layout of the camp, and you can pick up a tablet from reception with the digital reconstruction on it.

    The E6 Highway

    The Falstad Centre is located on the E6, Norway’s main highway. You can find my guide to the E6 by clicking the link below. 

    The E6 Highway
    Trondheim Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide
  • History, Notodden, Rjukan, Telemark, World War II

    Industrial Heritage in Rjukan, Telemark

    Industrial Heritage in Rjukan, Telemark

    In this article...

    The Fv37 Highway

    Rjukan is located along the fv37, which is the main highway through Telemark. You can find my guide for the Fv37 by clicking the link below. 

    The Fv37 Highway
    Rjukan Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Pre industrial era

    Before industry came to Rjukan, it wasn’t a town and there were very few people living here. However, Rjukan was a known tourist destination. The area has good terrain for skiing and hiking, and it’s a good starting point for the Hardangervidda Plateau. Moreover, in the 1860s, the Norwegian Mountain Touring Association built their first cabin here, by the waterfall. Additionally, Rjukan is close to Gaustatoppen, one of the highest mountains in the country. It also experienced tourism growth in the 19th century.

    Industrial Growth

    In the early 20th century, Norway experienced rapid industrial development. They worked out how to utilise the cheap hydropower properly. Industrial development began in the East Telemark region. Before then, it was an underdeveloped and sparsely populated agricultural area. The factories built here were to make fertiliser, which could be used to blast the mines.

    Kristian Birkeland (1867-1917)
    Sam Eyde (1866-1940)

    The background for industrial development in Rjukan and the neighbouring town Notodden is thanks to these two guys. The process was used to fix atmospheric nitrogen into nitric acid, one of the several chemical processes generally referred to as nitrogen fixation. The resultant was then used as a source of nitrate. It’s a little above me, so you can read about it here.

    They needed electricity to make this work, so established the hydropower company Norsk Hydro in 1905. They set up an experimental factory in Notodden in 1905. The first nitrate factory in Rjukan was Vemork (Rjukan I), which began operations in 1911. At the time, Vemork was the largest power plant with direct current production.

    Rjukan II Power Plant

    Other industrial plants

    Other plants went up around Rjukan, and they are still visible today. Here’s just two of them:

    • Såheim Power Plant: It is from 1914. Hydro Energi owns the building. An old piece from the power plant is in a park in Rjukan.
    • Mår Power Plant: It’s located just south of Rjukan. It was put into operation in 1948 and collects water from an intake reservoir.

    Moreover, they saw the potential of Rjukan, and decided to take over its natural attractions for the exploitation of hydropower. The Rjukan Falls, which had previously been a tourist attraction, were now exploited for hydropower. Furthermore, the high mountain lake Møsvatn and the watercourse was taken over for industry. Their use as a tourist attraction diminished.

    Building Rjukan

    With these plants coming up in Rjukan, they needed to make a town. Rjukan was built between 1905 and 1916.

    The man with the plan for Rjukan was Sam Eyde. He designed Rjukan from the ground up. This included the street layout, facilities, and architecture. Houses were designed from the ground up for the workers. Even the mailboxes and park benches were specifically designed. In 1925, 80% of the houses were controlled by Norsk Hydro.

    In 1910, the population was 2,200. Moreover, ten years later, it was 8,350. At its peak, 12,000 people lived in Rjukan.

    The sun doesn’t reach Rjukan between September and March. Eyde couldn’t have his workers depressed, so he had the Krossobanen built. Moreover, it takes passengers up to a nearby mountain, where the sun still reaches all year long. Certainly, the Krossobanen opened in 1928 as a gift from Norsk Hydro.

    Transportation of goods

    With people and industry comes a need for transport. Moreover, a very detailed system was designed to transport goods from Rjukan down to the pier at Skien. The Rjukanbanen railway took goods from the plants to the Mael pier. From there, the railway ferry went across the Tinnsjøen Lake to Tinnoset. There the train went 34km to the Notodden pier. Goods were then loaded on barges and taken on the Telemark canal system to Skien. King Haakon VII opened the Rjukanbanen on 10 August 1909. It is no longer in operation, but the pier at Mael has been preserved.

    Development of heavy water & WWII

    Rjukan is most known today for its connection to the development of heavy water at its Vemork plant. I won’t go into too much detail about what happened here during the war; that’s for a separate article once I visit the Industrial Workers Museum.

    As we know, between 1907 and 1911 Norsk Hydro built the plant at Vemork. In 1934, they built an adjacent hydrogen plant. Certainly, a by-product of hydrogen projection via water electrolysis is heavy water.

    The Nobel Prize winner Odd Hassel told Norsk Hydro they were producing heavy water; they didn’t know before then!

    What is Heavy Water?

    Heavy water is a form of water that contains only deuterium (heavy hydrogen), rather than common hydrogen. Moreover, the presence of the heavier hydrogen isotope gives the water different nuclear properties. Water has two hydrogen atoms and one oxygen atom. Heavy water has deuterium instead of hydrogen. Furthermore, regular hydrogen has one proton in its nucleus, while heavy water has one proton and one neutron. The increase of mass gives it physical and chemical properties when compared to normal water. It looks like water, but is 10% heavier.

    One purpose of heavy water is using it in nuclear reactors. Heavy water slows the neutrons so they can react with uranium in the reactor. One use of heavy water is developing nuclear weapons.

    Vemork hidden in the trees

    World War II

    This is where we get into World War II. During the war, the Germans took over Norsk Hydro. German scientists discovered that uranium is useful for energy and weapons. Also, heavy water acts as a moderator in a reactor and contributes to the refining of uranium, suitable for atomic bombs. If you aren’t a science person, all that matters is that the Germans were developing heavy water at Vemork in Norway for their atomic bomb.

    Norwegian resistance members discovered this, and immediately set about sabotaging their operations. They launched several attacks on the facility. The most famous is the sabotage operation in winter 1943. While they were able to damage the facility, production soon continued. However, the Norwegians were able to destroy the boats leaving Rjukan via Mael and thus halt the Germans plans to export the heavy water back to Germany. The ship that carried the heavy water is under the lake near Mael.

    The heavy water facility was blown up in 1977. In 2017, the secret cellar used by the Germans was discovered. It is currently being preserved so visitors can see the remains.

    Outside the museum Vemork

    Today Vemork power station is the Norwegian Industrial Workers’ Museum. The history of Rjukan and the industrial worker is told, in addition to the history of war and sabotage associated with the place.

    Post-war industrial shift

    Production continued after the Second World War. In 1955, Norsk Hydro was a powerhouse (in all senses of the word!) with 18% of the global export market for fertiliser products.

    After 1960, most of the production in Rjukan was moved out of town to more modern factories in Porsgrunn. Moreover, Rjukan lost its status as major industrial town. However some industry is still present here, but on a much smaller scale.

    Ammonia production ended in Notodden in 1968 and in Rjukan in 1989. Furthermore, they replaced Vemork with a new facility behind the mountains in 1971. Today the power plants serve as heritage sites and museums.

    UNESCO World Heritage Site

    After the turn of the century, Rjukan began to refocus its prime source of income. It found that tourism could be a huge industry here. After all, it was in the 19th century. With that the town decided to push for UNESCO World Heritage status for its industrial plants.

    The application was for Rjukan and Notodden. Above all, they represent the second industrial revolution consisting of industry, hydropower, transport and factory cities. The cities went on the UNESCO list on 5 July 2015. This is exactly 108 years and 1 day after Sam Eyde’s plans began for Rjukan.

    Here’s the reason UNESCO added it:

    Located in a dramatic landscape of mountains, waterfalls and river valleys, the site comprises hydroelectric power plants, transmission lines, factories, transport systems and towns. The complex was established by the Norsk-Hydro Company to manufacture artificial fertiliser from nitrogen in the air. It was built to meet the Western world’s growing demand for agricultural production in the early 20th century. The company towns of Rjukan and Notodden show workers’ accommodation and social institutions linked by rail and ferry to ports where the fertilizer was loaded. The Rjukan-Notodden site manifests an exceptional combination of industrial assets and themes associated to the natural landscape. It stands out as an example of a new global industry in the early 20th century.

    UNESCO World Heritage

    Hiking trails around the Vemork plant

    Rjukan Today

    Today 3,100 people live in Rjukan. It is primarily a tourist destination. The surrounding mountains are great for skiers. Moreover, access to Hardangervidda national park is perfect for adventure seekers and hikers. Furthermore, there are numerous museums and visitor centres about the towns heritage.

    It’s not all industry in Rjukan. The town is famous for its sun mirrors. Between September and March, Rjukan sits in the shadows. The mountain (thanks, Gaustatoppen) blocks the sun. In 2013, at the cost of 5 million NOK, large mirrors were put on the mountain. They reflect sun onto the town square. Every 12 March is Solfesten, a festival to celebrate the return of the sun.

    Visiting Rjukan

    By Car: Rjukan is a 2.5 hour drive from Oslo. You can take a short detour via the famous Heddal Stave Church. Rjukan is 1.5 hours from Dalen, 2 hours from Skien, and 5.5 hours from Bergen.

    Public Transport: There are no direct public transport routes to Rjukan; you have to take multiple buses. This includes from all nearby cities.

    How Long to Stay: I would recommend spending at least one night in Rjukan. This will give you time to do Gaustabanen and the Vemork Museum, though they can both be easily spread over 2 days. If you are interested in World War II or hiking, you can do the same trail the resistance workers took when they had their famous sabotage operation. It is a middle-grade hike and will take you past some heritage sites. Click here to learn more. Another hike will take you along the pipes for the Vemork station (click here).

    Note: Vemork Museum is not an easy walk from Rjukan town centre. Having a car is highly recommended.

    The Fv37 Highway

    Rjukan is located along the fv37, which is the main highway through Telemark. You can find my guide for the Fv37 by clicking the link below. 

    The Fv37 Highway
    Rjukan Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide
  • Bergen, History, World War II

    The Most Haunted Places in Bergen

    Haunted Places in Bergen

    I love haunted stories. Every time the husband and I travel somewhere, we do a ghost tour. No, I do not care for ghosts or scary stories. Instead, I like the stories of the everyday and the weird that makes a town sound more unique. Typical walking stories tend to focus on kings, the upper class, and famous people. Ghost stories focus on the lower class, the merchants, the poor. It’s fascinating. So, in the spirit of Halloween, I had to seek out the most haunted places in Bergen.

    Like any good ghost story, the haunted places of Bergen are local legend and not really written about in English. I had to dig through newspapers, Norwegian blogs, and other websites to find the good stuff. Bergen has some crazy stories, as this page will tell.

    If you know any ghost stories in Bergen (or surrounds) add them in the comments!

    In this article...

    Bergen Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Criminals in the Rosenkrantz Tower

    The Rosenkrantz Tower is intimidating in its own right, but anyone who has been inside knows how eerie the basement is.

    A little bit about the tower. It was originally built in 1270 as an apartment for the King, Magnus the Lawmender. When Bergen was part of Denmark, the Danish lord Erik Rosenkrantz built the tower in its current form. There have been alterations to the tower before Rosenkrantz, but his is the most famous. The dungeon was added around the year 1500.

    The dungeon is 4m x 1m, and the ceiling is just high enough to stand up in. Light only comes through a crack in the walls, which are very damp. Imprisoned here were the worst prisoners. The cell was in use from the 16th until the 19th centuries.

    Eternal Guest at the Radisson Blu Hotel

    Maybe you’ll be staying at the Radisson Blu on your stay? Skip this section if so.

    Okay, for those of you who stayed. Before a major renovation at the Radisson Blu, the staff observed strange things. The events took place on the second floor near the nightclub.

    Staff saw the ‘eternal guest’ often. In the mornings, they saw him with a beer glass. The revolving doors into the kitchen also moved without anyone being there. Some employees even reported seeing a shadow following them in the corridors. Sometimes a figure would be seen on the dance-floor after closing time.

    The staff elevator is one of the most affected places. It can only be used with a code, and it links the party rooms to the kitchen. Occasionally the elevator would stop by itself on the second floor. The doors would open and everything was completely dark. No one had been to this floor.

    So, there’s a beer-loving disco ghost wandering the party rooms of the Radisson Blu.

    Hauntings at Bryggen

    Bryggen Tracteursted

    Bryggen Tracteursted is a restaurant located behind Bryggen. It’s in a schøtstuene (assembly room) built in 1708. Of course it’s haunted.
    One night a chef was working while playing some music. Suddenly, the pans from the shelves fell off. The chef is sure that something supernatural was the cause of the events.

    The Hanseatic Games

    Bryggen in general feels very haunted. After all, this is where people have Bergen have lived since the 11th century. It’s the Hanseatic times (1360-1754) that have some creepy stories. In particular are the games that the apprentice merchants would play. One is the water game, held in May. The new boys went to ships on the bay. Their clothes were taken off and a rope tied around their waist. They were then tossed into the water and hoisted up. They repeated this several times. Out at sea, several older men waiting with a rowing boat, armed with sticks. They tried to hit the wet boys. After the ceremony, the boys went back to continue serving the dinner party. One boy is believed to have died when his belly was torn open by a protruding nail outside the ship.

    There are so many stories of these games. Another one is the smoking game. Older boys made a fire, and the younger boys were tied up in ropes and lifted up above the fire. While hanging, the boy was asked questions that he should know the answer to, mostly about the business. If he got the answers right, he was released. If he got an answer wrong, he was lowered further into the fire. One boy is said to have died. The statue outside Svensgården represents that the boy came out of the fire looking he had multiple eyes and noses.

    Lonely Mother at St. Jørgens

    St. Jørgen’s Hospital is one of the best preserved leprosy hospitals in Europe. The Nonneseter Abbey constructed the hospital in the 1300s to treat the growing number of patients. Over the years it developed into one of Bergen’s most important hospitals. Armeur Hansen discovered the cause of leprosy in Bergen and worked near the hospital.

    The patients of St. Jørgens had to live in the hospital. They were self-sufficient with their own vegetable gardens and livestock. They would share rooms roughly 2m x 2m, but had a large kitchen and common area.
    One of my friends once told me a story about the hospital. Now, every time I walk through the hospital grounds (it’s part of my walking tours) I am reminded of this haunting story. A woman was admitted to St. Jørgen’s for having leprosy and had to remain on the property. Every Sunday, a nanny would bring the woman’s children to play in the park across from the hospital. The children had been told their mother had died, and they were unsure why they were playing in this park. They were brought here so their mother could see them.

    Today St. Jørgen’s is the leprosy museum of Bergen, with exhibitions and guided tours.

    Cemeteries around Bryggen

    Cemeteries are always creepy. They are also always haunted. St. Jacobs has an interesting story. Established in 1629 as a cemetery for the poor, it is the oldest cemetery in Bergen. Back then it was very uncommon to bury the poor in marked graves. So, between 60 and 70 percent of the dead had unmarked graves. Meanwhile, the wealthy were buried inside the churches – often in the floor or crypts in the basement.

    In the 19th century, it became less common to bury the wealthy in the church. After all, imagine the smell coming from the church? Eventually, St. Jacob’s became a cemetery for the upper class. The graves of many famous Bergenser’s are there.

    An honourable mention goes to the cemetery around the Bergen Cathedral. That cemetery was the leprosy cemetery. It got so full that they made cemeteries like St. Jacobs.

    Further down the road is the Assistant Cemetery. In 2016, when they were doing work on the railway, they found skulls belonging to 50-60 people. They were likely buried in the 19th century.

    Bergen Prison

    The prison in Bergen was built in the mid-19th century. A reform in the country meant new prisons based on the Philadelphia system. This meant one prisoner per cell, and harsh treatment of each prisoner. The Bergen prison did built one cell for each prisoner, but it became known for being nice to the prisoners. During the 1916 fire, the prison was in peril. The prison management let the prisoners go, asking them to come back the next day. With one or two exceptions, the prisoners returned after the prison wasn’t lost in the fire.

    The Gestapo took over the prison in 1940. One of the Gustapo’s prisoners was Gunvor Mowinckel, who was imprisoned here 1944-45. She and her husband were sheltering refugees during the Norwegian resistance and arrested for this. After an interrogation and torture by the Gestapo, they are imprisoned here. Gunvor wrote:

    “At a point in the Gestapo HQ I was asked by Kesting (Gustapo) how many children I had. When I answered, Kesting said that the children of such a terrible individual weren’t worthy of life.

    Later that day we were transferred to the Bergen County Jail. It was a horrible time. I think the fear for the children and what was coming next was the worst.”

    The prison is now abandoned and certainly has a creepy vibe about it. While the stories aren’t exactly scary, there’s something eerie about the building.

    Town Hall Prison

    The town hall prison is creepier than the main prison. The basement had a cell for 12 prisoners and a room for the mentally ill. There was no fresh air. If they had the opportunity to move around, it was in the corridor outside their cell. No outdoor area was available to them. It wasn’t a prison but a holding cell before sentencing. Prisoners could wait up to two years in this basement cell with stench, darkness, no light, no heat, and no comfort.
    When they were sentenced, they were sent to prison or executed.

    Executions were commonplace. For example, in 1630 they executed a woman for stealing from the parish clerk. In 1632 they accused a girl of causing a shipwreck – she was clearly a witch. After torture, the girl pointed the finger at another woman for causing the disaster. This woman was also executed. If the crime was petty, prisoners were deported to Northern Norway. In 1692, wealthy merchant Jørgen Thormøhlen got permission from the King to take prisoners to his colony in the West Indies.

    As mentioned above, there was a bedlam next to the holding cell. They likely received no treatment. Back then, the mentally ill were treated poorly. For example, in 1634 they executed a man for helping treat someone back to their sanity.

    A room is still preserved in the basement, but it’s seldom open to the public.

    The Apprentice

    Kløverhuset is a shopping mall located on Strandgaten in Nordnes. The shopping mall made news many years ago for noises that were coming from it at night. The noise was so intense that the locals complained to the press. It gained so much attention that a clairvoyant came to inspect the mall. The clairvoyant said she spoke to a figure named Albert Albertsen. Turns out, he was an apprentice to Johan Petersen, the man who started Kløverhuset in 1852.

    No reportings of Albert have been made in recent times, but maybe he’s still there?

    Gestapo Headquarters

    The Gestapo was an executive branch of the German security police during the Second World War. Germans occupied Bergen during the war. The Gestapo had their headquarters in a building close to the theatre. The building became known as a torture site and a symbol of the oppressive occupying power in Norway. Brutal methods when interrogating people became a trademark of the Gestapo.

    Following the drama in Telavåg in 1942 (click here to read about that), the Gestapo brought in the villagers for interrogation. One woman, Martha, did not want to tell the Gestapo about what was happening in Telavåg. She also didn’t want to identify the Norwegians who were part of it. To force a confession, the Gestapo beat Martha with wooden sticks until she lost consciousness.

    800 to 900 prisoners were subjected to violent interrogations by the Gestapo, where they were tied up and hung up in meat hooks in the basement or in offices further upstairs. A total of six resistance fighters died as a direct result of the Gestapo’s torture. 

    The Gestapo tortured many victims to death. To avoid breaking during interrogation, several prisoners jumped to their death from the 4th and 5th floors.

    After the war, the Gestapo in Bergen were convicted of war crimes and sentenced to death. Today a memorial stands outside the building for those who were tortured and died.

    A museum is currently being developed on the fourth floor, where four graves have been preserved. Read more here

    Octavia the Friendly Ghost

    Every theatre has a ghost, and Bergen’s is the friendliest. Her name is Octavia Sperati, and she is one of the female actors from the theatres early days. She is a useful ghost, taking care of the building and the people working there.

    There are several sightings of Octavia. She is observed as a woman in a white dress flying around the corridors. There are reports of knocking noises, footsteps in corridors, and paintings falling off the wall. Some even claim to hear her voice.

    If you want to see her, there is a portrait of her in the lobby. The painting has survived fires and bombings, so people think she’s the ghost.

    Ghosts in the Natural History Museum

    Rakkerdammen is a swamp area located close to the Natural History Museum. The swamp is gone, the remnants are now a pond. The site is an old execution site; ‘rakker’ means ‘executioner’. In the old times, children were told to avoid the swamp as the ghosts could take them into the swamp.
    It’s believed the ghosts haunt the Natural History Museum.. After all, it’s built on the old court square next to the execution site. Unusual activities are said to be the ghosts of those executed. The last execution was in 1803. Anders Lysne was beheaded for leading a farmers’ revolt against forced military service.

    Some of the objects inside the museum are also haunted. The Egypt department has 5,000-year-old statues on display that turn and move. This is even though they are behind glass. Observations of a monk have also been made. The old monk is moving around in the church exhibition area.

    Sibling Drama

    There’s sightings of ghosts near the old Munkeliv Monastery in Nordnes. It’s not from the monastery itself; the monastery is today a park. Rather, it comes from one of the houses close by. Yes, Bergen has a haunted house. The story goes that two siblings were romantically involved with one another and living in a house in Nordnes. The sister got pregnant, which is of course a bad thing. The couple killed the child when it was born. Then it is said the brother killed the sister before hanging himself.

    The park over the monastery is also said to be haunted. After all, the soil was taken from an old cemetery where Bergen’s worst criminals were buried. We’ll explore them now.

    Execution on Nordnes

    The majority of executions took place on the Nordnes Peninsula. There are two separate sites: Galgebakken and the area close to the aquarium.
    Galgebakken means ‘gallows’, and it’s where some executions took place. It is also where pillories were to punish and humiliate prisoners.

    The site close to the aquarium is famous for its witch burning. Over 100 women burned at the stake for being a witch in Bergen. The most famous is Anne Pedersdatter Beyer, who was the widow of priest Absalon Beyer. During the witch trials, it was very uncommon for upper class women like Anne to be accused of witchcraft. Typically, witches came from the lower classes. Being accused of witchcraft could be due to ordinary, everyday accidents. The worse accusations involved women taking part in accidents, most often shipwrecks. It’s believed they burned Anne for being a witch because she was unpopular in Bergen. After all, once you are accused, it was hard to fight that.

    Later on, the site was used for executions. Between 1842 and 1902, 1888 people were sentenced to death in Norway but only 20 were executed. Four people were beheaded in Bergen after 1814 on this site. One was the counterfeiter Jens Fenstad. Another was murderer Jakob Alexander Jakobsen Wallin. The latter was the last public execution in Bergen in 1876. 5,000 people were present when Jakob was executed. Those present were from the lower classes. The upper classes had read in the newspaper to stay away from the execution.

    St. Pauli Cemetery

    The site where St. Pauli Cemetery used to be is said to be the most haunted place in Bergen. The cemetery was established around 1650 for the poor and criminals of Bergen. It is often said that there were ghosts both inside and outside the walls. This is because they buried the poor in the walls. Meanwhile they buried the executed criminals outside the walls. Jens Fenstad, the counterfeiter, was buried outside the wall. A stone slab was over his grave until the end of the 19th century. A courthouse used to stand next to the cemetery.

    Ever since the cemetery was built over and the area got gas lanterns (and now modern lighting), the ghost activity has calmed down. Additionally, in the late 19th century the remains were moved to Møllendal Cemetery. The soil was used to built Nordnes Park, which they think has hauntings from the criminals.

    Resources

    histos.no / An excellent website with historical stories about Bergen

    Nordnes Republikken / A blog about the Nordnes Peninsula

    NRK.no

    BT.no

    Bergen Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide
  • History, Kirkenes, World War II

    The History of Kirkenes

    The History of Kirkenes

    I love Kirkenes. Honestly, it’s one of those places I didn’t think much of until I got there. What makes it so special is the blend of so many cultures, religions and customs that come together to make one special town. Walking through the town, you’ll hear Norwegian, Finnish, Russian and Sami. This didn’t happen overnight; Kirkenes’ multiculturalism is from hundreds of years of history. I’ve put together my overview of the history of Kirkenes, focusing on the important events that made the town what it is today.

    The History of Kirkenes

    The E6 Highway

    Kirkenes is located on the E6, Norway’s main highway. You can find my guide to the E6 by clicking the link below. 

    The E6 Highway
    Kirkenes Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Norway's Coastal Ferry

    Kirkenes is a port of call of Norway’s coastal ferry. Find my guide for the coastal ferry by clicking the link below. 

    Norway's Coastal Ferry

    The Sami Settlement Between Two Countries

    The history of Kirkenes begins with its Sami settlement. The Skolt Sami, or Eastern Sami, have been using the land around Kirkenes for hundreds of years. They would come here with their reindeer flocks to graze along the Varangerfjord. In the winter, they would go to Northern Finland.

    Kirkenes and surroundings was a shared Norwegian-Russian district with no strict borders. The present-day border is from 1826, and it took only a few years before the first settlers came to the area. 

    Border Establishment

    When the borders came into place, the region was heavily affected. For example, Neiden, 45km west of Kirkenes, was cut in half. The area is the centre of the Skolt Sami culture in Norway, which is the eastern Orthodox Sami. Many of the residents lived part of the year in Russia, and the borders led them to settle on the Kola Peninsula in present-day Russia.

    In Neiden you can still find St. George’s Chapel, a Russian Orthodox chapel built in 1565. In 1902, the Norwegian government funded the Neiden Chapel. The church resembles a stave church to assert the state’s sovereignty in Eastern Finnmark. If you are driving towards Inari in Lapland from Kirkenes, you will pass the church. Today there is a Skolt Sami Museum in Neiden, close to St. George’s Chapel.

    The First Church

    In the mid-19th century, the settlement around Kirkenes decided to build a church near the fjord. Originally, the settlement had the strange name ‘Piselvnes’ (Pis River Headland). With the church, the settlement became Kirkenes (Church Headland).

    Kirkenes 1898 Wessel, Ellisif Rannveig

    Discovery of Iron Ore

    Kirkenes grew thanks to the discovery of iron ore 10km south of the settlement. Around that time, very few people lived in Kirkenes. The mining company SydVaranger A/S was founded and the town grew rapidly. In the early 20th century, the population grew to 8,000. Most people came from far away. Besides Norwegian and Sami languages, Russian, Swedish, English and German were common. During World War I, iron ore from Kirkenes was in high demand. At most, 1,500 people worked in the mines. In 1908, the Hurtigruten made Kirkenes its turning point.

    World War II

    With its proximity to the Soviet Union, Kirkenes was valuable throughout World War II. When the Winter War broke out in Finland, Kirkenes was a safe haven. More than 1,300 refugees from Finland and the Soviet Union crossed.

    Less than a year later, in July 140, German forces invaded Kirkenes. Kirkenes became one of the most important bases in Norway for the Germans.

    The Murmansk Front

    Up to 10,000 German soldiers were present in Kirkenes during the war. The main goal of the Germans was to block British shipments into Murmansk. Additionally, Kirkenes was important during the German invasion of the Soviet Union. When Operation Barbarossa began in 1941, Allied convoys supplied Murmansk with food and materials. It was then sent to Moscow to prevent the fall of the capital. The Germans used Kirkenes to target and attack these convoys.

    Kirkenes became a target for bombing and air raids by both the Allies and the Soviets. Air-raid warnings sounded over 1,000 times and there were over 300 bombing raids. After Malta, Kirkenes was the place in Europe subject to the most intensive bombing.

    The Partisans

    The area around Kirkenes was also important for the partisans. Norwegians signed up to train in espionage in the Soviet Union. After returning to Norway, they set up observation posts along the Finnmark coast. From there, they reported on German shipping and military activity. Their reports were for the Soviet Union.

    They lived in simple conditions and were completely isolated. During the Cold War, many of them ended up with accusations of having Communist sympathies. A memorial for 11 freedom fighters stands near Kirkenes. They helped partisans collect information about the Occupation. They were caught and sent to a POW camp in summer 1943. A couple of months later, they were killed close to the memorial spot.

    The fighting between Kirkenes and Murmansk cost the lives of tens of thousands of soldiers. The terrain is difficult, and the weather made it worse. It was difficult to establish supply chains for the soldiers. Most soldiers either died in action or they froze to death in temperatures as low as -40C/F.

    Over 80 prisons and POW camps were located in the area around Kirkenes, and at one point more than 7,000 Soviet prisoners of war were held in these camps.

    Liberation of Kirkenes & Rebuilding

    In October 1944, Finland and the Soviet Union agreed to a ceasefire. The Germans intensified their plans to retreat from Finnmark. As the Soviets began to advance on Kirkenes, the Germans began their retreat. During the retreat, the Germans used their scorched earth tactic. Anything they passed, they set on fire. Anything that was remaining in Kirkenes after all the bombing raids burned down.

    Most of the population fled to the mines to hide underground. Up to 3,000 people lived in the mines – 11 babies were born there! The movie Under a Stone Sky from 1997 is about this event.

    Only 13 houses were standing after the war. The church that gave the name ‘Kirkenes’ did not survive.

    On the 25th of October 1944, the Soviets entered Kirkenes. The locals gave them a heroes welcome. Kirkenes was the first town in Norway liberated by the Red Army.

    Learn about the history between Kirkenes and Russia by visiting the Grenseland Museum.

    Video about the liberation: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bM5cJkXUOx4

    After the liberation, the locals had to live in the ruins and cellars of bombed houses. It took some time for rebuilding to begin. The general shortage of timber meant that materials had to be imported. Many children were sent to Sweden to ‘fatten up’ with Swedish families for a couple years.

    Kirkenes was rebuilt thanks to the Marshall Plan from the United States. Moreover, with the rebuilding, Kirkenes became the first town in Northern Norway to get sealed streets.

    Postwar Developments

    During the Cold War, Kirkenes was just one of two borders between NATO and the Soviet Union (the other was in Turkey) and for much of the 1990s it was the only border between Russia and NATO.

    The mines in Kirkenes re-opened in 1952 and were incredibly important for the post-war building that was taking place all around Europe. However, the iron market fell in the 1990s and Sydvaranger mining completely shut down in 1996. The loss of their traditionally largest industry led to major changes in Kirkenes.

    In the 1990s, Kirkenes underwent changes and became an important city for the Barents region. The Kirkenes Declaration was signed in 1993, and the Barents Euro-Arctic Region was formalised as a collaboration between Finland, Sweden, Norway and Northwest Russia. The core idea was ‘people to people collaboration’ across the borders, especially with Russia after the Cold War ended.

    Kirkenes was finally granted town status in 1998.

    The E6 Highway

    Kirkenes is located on the E6, Norway’s main highway. You can find my guide to the E6 by clicking the link below. 

    The E6 Highway
    Kirkenes Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Norway's Coastal Ferry

    Kirkenes is a port of call of Norway’s coastal ferry. Find my guide for the coastal ferry by clicking the link below. 

    Norway's Coastal Ferry
  • Bergen, History, World War II

    The Most Famous Bergen World War II Sites

    The Most Famous Bergen World War II Sites

    On the morning of the 9th of April 1940, Norway awoke to the news that Nazi Germany had invaded. The country remained occupied until the war ended on 8 May 1945. Bergen became one of the most important places for German forces on the west coast. They built forts, bunkers, and took over public buildings. I’ve put together a list of the most important Bergen World War II sites.

    The occupation was strategic for the Germans. Norway’s proximity to the United Kingdom was important. Furthermore, the iron ore exports from Narvik meant Germany could produce war materials. The entire coast of Norway became of use for the Germans. It’s easy to see how Norway has a rich war history.

    Join my Bergen walking tour!

    I offer walking tours of the Hanseatic area of Bergen with my company I Love Bergen. 

    Bergen Walking Tour

    In this article...

    Bergen Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Bergen & World War II: the Occupation

    Along with other major cities in Norway, Bergen was occupied on the first day of the German invasion. German warships passed Denmark on the night of the 8th. When the Norwegian fortifications were notified, they began preparations. Forts line the coast around Bergen, but they stood no chance against German ships. The ships came with planes and approximately 1,900 men. The Bergen forts managed to damage one ship, the Koningsberg, but the rest entered the city undamaged.

    The locals awoke on the 9th to a German flag flying at the Bergen Fortress. Heavily armed German guards stood outside public buildings. The occupation had been a success.

    Sites around Bergen

    The Bergen Fortress

    The Bergen Fortress was the main headquarters of the German soldiers during the war. Most of the buildings within the fortress served a purpose. The only building they didn’t use was Håkon’s Hall. Additionally, they constructed some of their own.

    If you are planning to walk around the fortress, I recommend this excellent guide. It’s available printed at Håkon’s Hall & the Rosenkrantz Tower.

    The German Bunker

    The German bunker stands next to Håkon’s Hall. It is one of the few remains of German buildings at the fortress. In 1944, there was a large explosion of a freight ship on the harbour. The telephone exchange was destroyed by the explosion. Using 200 Soviet prisoners of war, a new bunker was built to serve as a communications bunker. The concrete can withstand attacks. After the war, Germany gave Norway some funds to tear it down. However, the bunker remains, though covered in green ivy, as a reminder of the war. Today it’s used by the Norwegian Army.

    The Explosion of Voodbode

    On the 14th of April 1944, a German freight ship docked outside the fortress exploded. The ship, Voorbode, was travelling from Oslo to Kirkenes but stopped in Bergen for repairs. Normally, a ship like this would not be allowed to stop in a major port. It was carrying 124 tonnes of explosives. Due to a lack of proper controls, the ship docked in Bergen.

    The explosion occurred early in the morning. A water column several-hundred metres high rose. Following it was sand, mud, stones, iron plates, timber and steel from the ship. The pressure wave swept the harbour, crushing everything in its path. Houses fell apart, brick buildings suffered damage, and windows 2km away smashed. Bergen was declared a disaster area. 4,536 buildings were either damaged or destroyed. 160 people died, 5,000 were injured, and 5,000 became homeless. 4,260 children were forced to evacuate to prevent illness from spreading.

    Bergenhus Festningsmuseum

    To learn more about the resistance movement during World War II, and everything about the Norwegian army, visit the Bergenhus Festningsmuseum. It is on the edge of Bergenhus near St. Mary’s Church. The exhibition about the resistance movement in Bergen 1940-1945 shows both civilian and military resistance. It demonstrates how the civilians organised against the Nazi Party Nasjonal Samling’s attempts to Nazify Norway.

    It also focuses on the military resistance developed from scattered, isolated groups to a large organisation with ties to London. The torture and execution of resistance members was common. Or they were sent to concentration camps in Europe. Despite this, the resistance movement grew stronger until the liberation. The museum has photos, weapons, espionage equipment, sabotage material, film footage, and interviews. Additional exhibitions are:

    • Women’s contribution to the Norwegian Armed Forces
    • Newspapers in Bergen during the war
    • The underground press 1940-1945
    • Norwegian forces abroad
    • Norwegian Independent Brigade Group
    • History of the fortress
    • Enigma

    The best part is – the museum is free!

    Sverresborg

    Located on a hill behind the Bergen fortress, Sverresborg is a historic fortress. However, the fortress is also interesting when it comes to the Second World War. During WWII, the German occupants established two anti-aircraft batteries in the fortress. After the war, Sverresborg became as an execution site in connection with treason. Seven Germans and one Norwegian war criminal were executed there in 1946. Today, there is no evidence of this, but it’s still worth visiting as it provides excellent views of Bergen.

    Sites around Bryggen

    Bergen’s UNESCO site Bryggen is the epicentre of local history. The wharf is a trading centre from the 11th century onwards. For a few hundred years it was the home of the German merchants, the Hanseatic League. The locals considered Bryggen German until the end of the 19th century.

    After World War II in Bergen, the locals wanted to remove any trace of the city’s German heritage. They planned to get rid of Bryggen. Luckily, a fire led to archaeological excavations which led to the discovery of Bryggen’s rich heritage. Now the wharf is under conservation. We know that Bryggen suffered damage from the explosion, but it was also home to an important resistance group.

    Theta Museum

    The Theta Museum is an important World War II site in Bergen. It the secret base of a well-known resistance group called the Theta Group. Comprised of a group of young students (aged 19-22) form Bergen, the group had some radio equipment and established contact with London. The Theta group acquired information and then passed it to London. Therefore, they assisted the British Army with the Germans in Norway. They told the British about the movements of the battleship Tirpitz. This led to the British sinking the ship near Tromsø.

    They also obtained inside information about the U-boat pens in Laksevåg (see below). The group ended when the Germans discovered their location. Some group members were sent to concentration camps and died. Meanwhile, some fled to Sweden, and some to the United Kingdom. When they returned after the war, they set up their old room to look as it had during the war, and today that room is a museum.

    When visiting the museum, you’ll be able to see their equipment, photographs, newspapers, maps, a gun, and more. It’s a little hard to get into the museum. It’s open from May-September on Tuesdays, Saturdays and Sundays from 2pm-4pm. Note that it’s very small; it’s considered to be the smallest museum in Norway! It’s located in the alley Enhjørningsgården.

    Shetland Memorial

    The Shetland Group (or Shetland Bus) is a group that made a permanent link between Shetland and Norway throughout the Second World War. Operated by small fishing boats and later submarine chasers, it grew to be part of the resistance. The purpose of the group was to transfer agents in and out of Norway. They also provided them with weapons, radios, and other supplies. They would bring out the Norwegians who feared arrest by the Germans.

    Just behind the fish market is a statue of Leif Larsen, one of the famous men of the Shetland group. He made 52 trips to Norway and became a highly decorated Allied naval officer in the Second World War.

    In the mountains

    Rundemanen

    Some old German constructions can be found at the top of Rundemanen and nearby Blåmanen. Sadly I can’t find much information on their history.

    Fløyen WWII Memorial

    If you take a trip to the top of Mt. Fløyen, you’ll notice a World War II memorial just in front of the restaurant. It is in memory of the young people who were members of sports clubs who fell for Norway between 1940 and 1945. You can read about the history of why they have been recognised here: http://www.waymarking.com/waymarks/WMPBBT_World_War_II_Memorial_Bergen_Norway

    Sandviksbatteriet

    A short walk from the city centre, the Sandviken battery was built between 1895 and 1902 to protect Bergen from possible attacks from the Swedes. The battery formed the ‘inner fortification’ to protect Bergen from attacks from the sea. It was not manned when the Germans arrived in April 1940 and did not take part in the defence of Bergen as the Germans invaded. It was then used by the Germans throughout the war.

    Voorbode Anchor

    If you hike up Sandviksfjellet, you’ll come across the anchor from the Voorbode, the German freight ship that exploded on the harbour.

    Surrounding area

    U-boat pen Bruno

    When the Germans occupied Norway, they were able to move their u-boats closer to the front and the United Kingdom. One of the submarine pens they built is Bruno, which is located in the suburb of Laksevåg. It has 3 dry boat pens, 3 wet ones, and one that is used for storage. After the Allied landings in France in June 1944, there was a massive expansion of the U-boat base in Bergen.

    This led to a massive English air raid on October 1944, involving 150 aircraft. The attack ended in disaster when 193 Norwegians, among them 61 children at a nearby school, were killed. There was another attack on Bruno later that month, but the 244 aircraft could not find the target because of heavy clouds. Instead, parts of Bergen’s city centre were bombed. Today the bunker is used by the Norwegian navy for submarine pens. It’s a little hard to see from the city, but if you take any ferry or head out to the tip of Nordnes of Sandviken, you’ll be able to see it.

    Olsvik bunker

    Little historical information exists on this bunker, but a sign outside it states that it was used by the Germans during WWII. The bunker is located in the suburb of Olsvik. To get there, take bus 40 towards Olsvik and get off at the stop ‘Olsvikåsen’. From there, it takes 15-20 minutes to talk to the top.

    Fjell Fortress

    Fjell fortress was the largest German fortress in Norway during the Second World War. Construction began in 1942, and it was completed around July 1943. The fort was designed as being a significant link in the coastal defence of Norway, and it was to stop seaward approach to Bergen.

    To mount the main gun turret, it was necessary to dig 17 metres vertically into the mountain, and this was considered a time-consuming task. The main entrance and gun emplacement were constructed as an open ditch, and later covered with concrete, instead of blasting a tunnel into and down in the solid rock. As a result, water entering the tunnel system has been a problem ever since the tunnel was constructed. The work was carried out by prisoners from Eastern Europe and Norwegian prisoners. 25 prisoners died during construction, either from frostbite, exhaustion, or execution.

    Fjell Fortress is on top of the Fjedlafjedlet Mountain, in the small town Fjell, in Fjell municipality. You can walk around the impressive labyrinth of roads 10 metres underground. The exhibitions are located in an authentic military construction inside the fortress.

    Fjell fortress is located on the island of Sotra. This Nazi coastal battery was rediscovered in 2003. The Nazis established this fortress complex with underground bunkers, barracks, a hospital and storage.

    Herdla Museum

    Located at the tip of Askøy on a moraine island, you can see both a fighter aircraft from World War II and an intact torpedo battery from the Cold War. Exhibitions are about how the island was formed, how it was used as a German airbase, as well as the areas unique bird life.

    The main attraction is the German fighter Yellow-16, which took off from the airbase at Herdla. After 64 years on the seabed, the aircraft was raised and placed at the museum. There are guided tours of the torpedo battery and the tour goes over the Cold War.

    Hellen Fort

    Hellen Fort is located near Sandviken. It was built between 1895 and 1905 and was used by the Germans during World War II. As the Germans were invading Norway on the 9th of April, they bombed the fortress, killing six Norwegians. Here’s a recent article about a recent memorial for the Norwegians who passed away: https://www.ba.no/nyheter/de-ga-alt-for-norge/s/5-8-52480

    Today the fort is mostly a hiking trail, and you can find out about the trail by clicking here.

    Kvarven Fort

    Kvarven fort is from the late 1800s. Designed to protect Norway from a potential attack against Sweden, it was never used. During WWII, 33 officers and 279 corporals and privates with an average age of 40 were at the fort. The fort failed to open fire at the first German ships, mistaking them for unarmed merchant ships. When the fort finally opened fire, it only managed to get off a few shots through the fog at two torpedo boats.

    The German ships did not retaliate but sent a morse coded message in English saying ‘stop shooting’. The fort went on to shoot the cruiser Konigsberg three times, and the ship barely survived. A few hours later, the Kvarven surrendered. German naval personnel manned the fort for the rest of the war. The fort opened in 1993 as a preserved cultural area, and now it’s a nice place to go hiking.

    Bergen Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide