Emma

Hey! My name is Emma. I'm from Australia but have lived in Bergen, Norway, for the last eight years. I work as a local guide and tour leader for all over Northern Europe. The Hidden North is an online travel guide I have made to help you plan your own visit here.

  • Bergen, Where to Stay

    Where to Stay in Bergen From a Locals Perspective

    Where to Stay in Bergen From a Locals Perspective

    So you are planning a trip to Bergen – excellent! We think that Bergen is the best city in Norway, but I must admit that we also have some bias here. It is, after all, our home city. Still, no trip to Norway is complete without a visit to Bergen.

    In this guide I’ve put together a list of the best hotels to stay at in Bergen. This is based on my years of tour guiding experience, feedback from groups, and also places that I’ve stayed at myself.

    The list is divided into parts of the city and then again into different grades of hotel. They are as follows:

    • High end: 1500+ NOK a night
    • Mid-range: 1000 – 1500 NOK a night
    • Budget: Less than 1000 NOK a night

    Here’s my top list of places to stay in Bergen, sorted by area.

    In this article...

    Bergen Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Be sure to check out our Bergen travel guide! Here you can find all our recommendations of things to do and see, including our self-guided walks. 

    Bryggen

    Why Stay Here?

    Okay, so Bryggen is of course one of the most popular places to stay in Bergen. Bryggen is Bergen’s UNESCO World Heritage site. Located approximately 10 minutes from the city centre, Bryggen is where you’ll find several museums as well as Bergen’s best Norwegian restaurants. It is close to everything you need: museums, restaurants, shops, hikes and scenic points. While it is a bit of a walk from public transport and the city centre, if you are interested in Bryggen then this is the place to stay.

    Of course, being the most popular place in town means there aren’t too many budget options.

    High End

    • Clarion Havnekontoret.
    • This hotel has beautiful views out to the harbour as well as parking and an amazing breakfast. They also offer light dinners for free. Within a minute walk is St. Mary’s Church, the Bryggens Museum and Bryggen. Both this hotel and the Radisson Blu have the airport bus leave right outside. Check Availability & Prices
    •  
    • Radisson Blu Hotel
    • The Radisson Blu Hotel is a gorgeous hotel located just seconds from Bryggen. The breakfast is delicious! Note that often there are conferences here, so it can sometimes feel a little busy. Check Availability & Prices
    •  
    • Hanseatic Hotel Bergen – top pick! If you want to get away from chain hotels then the Hanseatic Hotel is for you. Most of the hotel is situated inside the historic wooden houses of Bryggen, meaning your room has a clear rustic feel. There are also very few rooms here, giving the hotel a boutique feel.
    •  
    • Bergen Harbour Hotel
    • I’ve heard a lot of good about Bergen Harbour Hotel. It has modern rooms and is a relatively small hotel, so there’s certainly a personal touch to it. Check Availability & Prices

    Mid Range

    Thon Orion

    I do like the Thon Orion. In fact, it is the hotel I stayed in when I first came to Norway back in 2011. The hotel has had a major renovation since then. Thon Hotels are typically known for their good breakfasts. The hotel is approximately halfway between the fortress and Bryggen. Check Availability & Prices

    Thon Rosenkrantz

    The rooms are a little on the small side, but that’s okay because you’ll be out exploring Bergen! The staff at this hotel are lovely; I haven’t had a bad experience here. it is also one block behind Bryggen, so you’re away from a lot of the crowds. No public transport close by, but you’re a block from the taxi rank outside the funicular station. Check Availability & Prices

    Around the City & Train Station

    In this part of the city you’ll find some of Bergen’s major landmarks, shopping centres, restaurants and part of the university. The city still keeps its small-town charm; there are no skyscrapers or busy streets here. Staying in the city centre has its advantages; Bryggen can get crowded in the summer months and the city centre has all the public transport connections. It is also centrally located, meaning you can get around Bergen easily.

    High End

    Hotel Norge by Scandic

    The newly renovated Hotel Norge has beautiful rooms with views out to the city as well as free breakfast, private parking, and an upscale spa. The hotel is close to the airport bus and light rail, making it easy to get in and out of Bergen. It’s very fancy – sometimes a little too fancy for a travellers liking – and I found the cheaper rooms were tiny. Check Availability & Prices

    Opus XVI

    Opus XVI is owned by the descendants of Edvard Grieg. The building dates from 1876 and used to be the bank. The rooms are incredible, as is the lobby (they’ve preserved most of the old bank), and I’ve always found the staff to be friendly. Check Availability & Prices

    Bergen Børs Hotel

    The Bergen Børs Hotel was formerly a stock exchange. One of Bergen’s two Michelin star restaurants, Bare, is located inside the building. The hotel itself is huge and is used by groups, so it can feel a little crowded. Check Availability & Prices

    Hotel Skostredet

    This is Bergen’s newest hotel, and it looks wonderful! Hotel Skostredet, which opened in June 2024, combines Scandinavian minimalism with Japanese finesse to create a 5* luxury feel. Inside the hotel is a high-end sushi bar. Check Availability & Prices

    Mid Range

    • Zander K Hotel
    • This hotel is located across the street from Bergen train station, so it’s perfect if you are coming in or out of Bergen by train. It’s a 15 minute walk to Bryggen and only a 5 minute walk to the city park. I’ve only ever heard good things about this hotel. Check Availability & Prices
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    • Scandic Ørnen
    • Scandic Ørnen is located only a few minutes from the city park and it’s across the street from Bergen’s largest shopping centre. Scandic’s are a reliable hotel chain in Norway – all of them are pretty much the same and they are all pretty great. There’s no frills in the room, but that’s fine. Check Availability & Prices
    •  
    • Scandic Byparken
    • The hotel is a little smaller and in a slightly odd part of town – there’s not much here but the main bus road, but the city park is only a block away. Check Availability & Prices
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    • Magic Hotel Xhibition
    • Magic Hotel is located in a shopping centre, and honestly I kind of like staying in shopping centres sometimes – especially if I’m travelling alone and on a budget. It’s a quick way to grab a meal! Rooms are small but have what you need. Check Availability & Prices

    Budget

    • Bergen Budget Hostel
    • The train station is just a five minute walk away. The rooms look nice and clean, and the location itself is pretty good.
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    • Citybox Bergen
    • Citybox is a chain of budget friendly hotels in Norway. There is no breakfast included, but the rooms are cosy. To keep the costs down, there’s no standard reception or cleaning service. Rather the keys are kept in a safe place and you check yourself in and out. Check Availability & Prices
    • Marken Guestehus
    • Marken Gjestehus is a no-frills hostel with shared rooms for only 250 NOK a night, which is a bargain in Norway. There’s a common living area and kitchen, so it has everything you need.

    Nordnes

    Nordnes is the peninsula that separates the Bergen harbour into two. The peninsula is home to trendy bars and cafes and is also where some of the oldest houses in Bergen city centre are located. Close by is the aquarium, Nordnes park, and the charming alleys.

    High End

    Clarion Admiral

    This hotel is beautiful and definitely one of my top picks for a stay in Bergen. Here you can look out to Bryggen as you have breakfast! The rooms are very cozy. Check Availability & Prices

    Mid Range

    • Comfort Hotel Bergen
    • The Nordic Hotel chain is a fairly decent chain to stay with. I’ve had mixed stays with them; in general the rooms are fairly simple. Still, breakfast is included and this one is in a great location. This part of Nordnes is nice and quiet but it’s only a short walk to the city centre. Check Availability & Prices
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    • Heimen Hotel
    • This hotel has just had a new renovation and looks very charming inside. Check Availability & Prices
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      Best Western Hotell Hordheimen
    • This is a nice hotel within Nordnes. Hot breakfast is complimentary. There’s also a traditional restaurant and a coffee shop, plus guest laundry facilities – finding a laundry in a hotel in Norway is something of a luxury in itself. Check Availability & Prices

     

    Budget Friendly

    Klosterhagen Hotel

    Located in arguably one of the most beautiful spots in Nordnes, Klosterhagen is a unique independent hotel. There are only 15 guest-rooms with private bathrooms and a home cooked breakfast. The hotel hires people who are training to work in the hotel industry; perhaps they have had a rough past but are now looking to change their lives. Check Availability & Prices

    Final Thoughts on Where to Stay in Bergen

    These are my top picks for hotels in Bergen. All of them are in good locations and have a lot of facilities included, ensuring that your stay in Bergen is relaxing.

    Enjoy your stay in Bergen!

    Bergen Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Be sure to check out our Bergen travel guide! Here you can find all our recommendations of things to do and see, including our self-guided walks. 

  • Copenhagen, Walking Guides

    Kongens Nytorv, Nyhavn & Amalienborg: A Self-Guided Walk in Copenhagen

    Kongens Nytorv, Nyhavn & Amalienborg: A Self-Guided Walk in Copenhagen

    Here’s my self-guided walk from Nyhavn to Amalienborg via Kongens Nytorv in Copenhagen. The area around Nyhavn was developed in the 17th century as a new market place that would be larger and more accommodating than the old Gammel Tov. The neighbourhood, called Frederiksstaden, also emerged as a place for Copenhagen’s elite to build their manor homes. Today Kongens Nytorv, the old market, has been turned into a major traffic junction in Copenhagen, while the old harbour Nyhavn has become the city’s most famous attraction. The royal family also call Frederiksstaden home at their palace Amalienborg.

    On this walk you’ll wander through the neighbourhood, seeing all the different sides it has to offer. 

    In this article...

    Copenhagen Travel Guide
    Denmark Travel Guide

    Downloadable Version of This Guide

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided walks on our online store. 

    View at the Store

    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the city
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos

    Kongens Nytorv, Nyhavn & Amalienborg

    This walk begins in the centre of Kongens Nytorv in Copenhagen.

    Kongens Nytorv

    The walk begins in the middle of Kongens Nytorv – a large square in the east of Copenhagen. 

    Kongens Nytorv was laid out by King Christian V in 1670 as Copenhagen was being expanded. The idea was to move away from the older square Gammeltorv (literally The Old Square), which at the time was a muddy medieval market. Kongens Nytorv was to have a lovely garden and cobblestones. The inspiration came from Paris. 

    The city’s eastern gate used to be here, but it was moved to make way for the district to be called New Copenhagen. Eventually the eastern gate was abandoned. 

    The baroque garden was completed in 1688 but didn’t survive too long – in 1747 the entire square was rebuilt by King Frederick V as a military ceremony ground. 

    Throughout the 2000s Kongens Nytorv underwent a massive refurbishment including the construction of the metro – it opened in 2019 to the public. It is used as an exhibition space, ice skating rink, market, and for high school graduation ceremonies. 

    Christian V Statue

    The equestrian statue is of King Christian V, who initiated the construction of Kongens Nytorv. It dates to 1688, when the baroque garden was completed, and today it’s the oldest equestrian statue in Scandinavia.

    Inspiration came from the statue of Louis XIII which stands at Place des Vosges in Paris.

    The positioning of the horse made it difficult for the metal, and the construction had to be strengthened. To do this, they put a naked man under the horse – this is supposed to represent envy, but really it’s just supporting the horse. 

    The Old Kiosk

    The old kiosk dates back to 1913. It is built int he Baroque Revival style and used to offer the first public telephone connection in Copenhagen. It was possible to make a call every day except Sundays. The phone box was open from 10am to 8pm. 

    Charlottenborg Palace

    Charlottenborg Palace is the oldest building on Kongens Nytorv. When the square was being constructed, the plots around it were sold off to Copenhagen’s elite. This one was built as a residence for Ulrik Frederick Gyldenløve, who was Christian V’s half brother. At the time, he was the Governor General of Norway.

    Today the building is home to the Royal Danish Academy of Fine Arts (they have been here since 1754) and there is a exhibition space called Kunsthal Charlottenborg that you can visit. 

    French Classicism, 1780

    Harsdorff House

    Harsdorff House was built in 1780 as a private residence for Caspar Frederick Harsdorfff, who had become the professor of perspective at the Royal Danish Academy of Fine Arts in 1766. 

    It has since served as a model for the many master builders of the time who had little academic training.

    Art Nouveau, 1931

    The Royal Theatre

    The theatre was founded in 1748 as a theatre for the King, but has since become a theatre for the country. 

    1874

    Hotel D'Angleterre

    This hotel is one of the oldest and most prestigious hotels in the world, and on top of that it is regarded as one of the first deluxe hotels in the world.

    There are 30 rooms and 60 suites inside, and the most expensive room I could find online is a 90m2 apartment that goes for $2,500 USD a night. The cheapest room I could find for January 2022 was $479 for one night. 

    In Alfred Hitchcock’s Tom Curtain, the protagonist (played by Paul Newman) stays here. Hitchcock is one of the scenes sitting in the lobby with a baby in his arms. 

    There is also a 1 Michelin Star restaurant inside. 

    Dutch Baroque, 1683

    French Embassy

    This lovely building was constructed in 1683 as the home for the Danish war hero Niels Juel, who had won the fame of wealth for his victory in the Battle of Køge Bay. When Niels died, Christian V had his “official mistress” and mother of five of his children, Sophie Amalie Moth, take over the mansion.

    The building was purchased by the French state in 1930 and is now the French Embassy. 

    Nyhavn

    Nyhavn is arguably the most famous place in Copenhagen. This harbour area (Nyhavn literally means “New Harbour”) is full of colourful warehouses that have now been converted into hip restaurants, bars and shops – though the area does feel particularly touristy and a little overpriced. 

    The harbour is artificial. It was constructed by King Christian V from 1670 to 1675 and dug out by Swedish prisoners of war from the Dano-Swedish War of 1658-1660. It was designed to be a gateway into the new Kongens Nytorv and was a place for fishermen to drop off their catch and for ships to handle cargo.

    Shortly after it was finished, it became notorious for the flowing of beer, the large number of sailors, and for prostitution. Most of the plots were sold off to merchants and skippers, and the buildings were used by people associated with maritime professions. 

    Fortunately the largest fires of Copenhagen have not made it to Nyhavn, so many of the buildings are from the mid-1700s, though there are some still standing from the 17th century.

    The area was pestrianised in 1980 and cleaned up. It became too small for modern ships and was transformed into the destination area we see today. It still has a grungy feel thanks to the bars, but that’s part of the charm of the area. 

    Memorial Anchor

    At the end of the harbour is a memorial anchor. it is placed there to commemorate the 1700 Danish soldiers and sailors in service for the Navy, merchant fleet or Allied forces who sacrificed their lives during World War II.

    The anchor was inaugurated in 1951. 

    Ships in the Harbour

    The ships at. the inner part of the harbour are owned by the Danish National Museum. 

    One of the most unique ships is the Lightvessel XVII Gedser Rev – the ship acts as a lighthouse and was used in areas that are too deep or unsuitable for lighthouse construction. 

    Nyhavn 7: Hong Kong Bar

    Nyhavn 7 is an old building from the 17th century. The name of the bar, the Hong Kong Bar, has nothing to do with Hong Kong. In fact, this is one of the last remaining sailors bars on Nyhavn. The Hong Kong bar was also a place where the sailors could get something besides beer, if you know what I mean… 

    Nyhavn 9

    Nyhavn 9 is believed to be the oldest house remaining on the street. It is also one of the few townhouses that was not heightened in the 19th century.

    The property was built in 1681 for harbourmaster Christen Christensen. After that, it was divided into apartments. 

    Since 1982, the building has been owned by Christel Windfeld-Lund. She doesn’t live in the building, but the restaurant Leonora Christine is based in the cellar. 

    Nyhavn 11

    Nyhavn 11 is from 1689 and has had a wide variety of interesting owners. One of the first owners was Jacob Severin, who married into wealth and was in 1733 granted a full monopoly on trade with Greenland. He founded a town in Greenland called Jacobshavn after himself. The town is still there, but is today known as Ilulissat. 

    Another interesting owner is Ludvig Ferdinand Romer, who established a sugar refinery in the building. He had previously been the governor of the Danish Gold Coast – a Danish colony in West Africa in present day Ghana. 

    Above the front entrance today is a figure of a sugar baker holding a sugar loaf in one hand and a sugar tin in the other. It was a way of identifying the houses before house numbers were a thing.

    By 1840, there were 34 people living in the property. 

    Nyhavn 67

    Nyhavn 67 is famous because it is where Hans Christian Andersen lived. Originally built as one household in the late 17th century, it was expanded and in the mid-19th century had five households here. 

    Andersen lived here with only short interruptions from 1848 to 1865.

    Today it is known as cafe H.C. Anderson. 

    Toldbodegade

    Toldbodegade (Customs House Street) led from the city centre of Copenhagen to the customs office. A string of warehouses were built along this street, most notably the West India Warehouse. 

    Sankt Annæ Plads

    Saint Anne Place is named after a chapel that used to stand here in the Middle Ages. The chapel was dedicated to the Virgin Mary’s mother, Saint Anna. The chapel only lasted for a few decades and is mostly forgotten in history, but its name was shared with a hospital called Saint Anna. The hospital stood for a long time in this area. 

    The location was believed to have healing power, and during excavations a number of crutches were found near where the chapel used to stand. People think the “cripples” (as the term in history books is used) were healed on the site and no longer needed their crutches. 

    The shape of the square today is similar to that of Nyhavn. That’s because this used to be a canal, but it was filled in to build the Royal Navy Hospital. Once it became a square, the district became fashionable with many nice buildings here. The garden was planted in 1852. 

    The beautiful building to your right is the old headquarters for DFDS (De Forende Dampskibs Selskaber), a shipping company. It now houses the Embassy of Finland and the Danish Nurses Association. 

    The statue that you see is of Carl Frederick Tietgen (1829-1901). He was a Danish financier and industrialist who played an important role in the industrialisation of Denmark and founded companies such as Tuborg (beer company) and DFDS. 

    Admiral Hotel

    This warehouse was constructed in 1787 for a shipping company. From the 1880s it was used to store grain. 

    The building was bought in 1973 to be converted into a hotel, which it is today. 

    Copenhagen Opera House

    Step into Amaliehaven – the garden area facing the water. This park is fairly new – it was established in 1983 and is designed to compliment the symmetry of Frederiksgade and Amalienborg. Italian sculptor Arnaldo Pomodoro created the works for the park, including the four columns that are supposed to represent the areas old use as a shipyard. 

    The opera house in Copenhagen is a bit of a controversy. It is one of the most expensive opera houses ever built, costing 2.5 billion DKK ($370,000,000 USD). It was funded by the Maersk shipping company. Some politicians were offended by the private donation, in part because the full cost was tax deductible, thus virtually forcing the government to buy the building. 

    The Maersk shipping magnate Maersk Mc-Kinney Møller had final say in the design. Many think the intention was to make. it look like a shipping container. 

    After its opening in 2005, the architect Henning Larsen wrote a book being very critical of the building. He distanced himself from it, calling it a “mausoleum” for Maersk Mc-Kinney Møller and “without comparison the most owner-infected ‘worst case’ in my fifty years as an independent arhcitect – squeezed between the Phantom of the Opera himself (i.e. Maersk), shipping magnates and lawyers.

    Directions: Head across the street into Amalienborg. Look at the wall to your left as you enter – there are bullet holes there from fighting between the Danes and the Nazis during World War II. 

    Amalienborg Palace

    You have made it to Amalienborg Palace, the home of the Danish royal family. 

    The name comes from Queen Sophie Amalie, who built a palace here after buying the land in 1660. It was a small mansion and large garden area, but it was all destroyed in 1689. The plot was deserted until 1728 before being bought and built as four manors for four noble families. 

    When the original royal residence, Christiansborg Palace, burned down in 1794 this became the temporary home of the royal family. Eventually they decided to make it their permanent residence. 

    Today the Danish royal family is one of the world’s oldest monarchs, and Amalienborg is considered to be the most distinguished piece of Rococo architecture in Denmark.

    We’ll go clockwise around the square, starting with the building immediately to your left. 

    Schacks Palace / Christian IX's Palace

    This is the current residence of Queen Margrethe II – if the flag is up, she’s home. 

    Moltke Palace

    Since 1885, this palace has been used to accommodate prominent guests. 

    Levetzau's Palace

    This was the home of Crown Prince Frederick until 2004. Today it is used as a museum for the royal house and you can visit the royal apartments with their original fittings and furnishings. 

    Brockdorff's Palace

    This is the current residence of Crown Prince Frederick and Princess Mary. It is fairly common to see them in this area – cycling their kids to school and so on. 

    Statue: King Frederick V

    The statue represents King Frederick V, the founder of Amalienborg. It was commissioned by Moltke, one of the old palace owners. The statue cost more than the entirety of Amalienborg. 

    Marble Church

    The Marble Church, formally known as Fredericks Church, is one of the most distinctive buildings in Copenhagen. The church was designed in 1740 and. the foundation stone was set by King Frederick V on 31 October 1749. However, due to budget constraints, the church was abandoned in 1770 and stood in ruins for 150 years.

    In 1874 Andreas Frederick Krieger, Denmark’s Finance Minister, sold. the ruins of the uncompleted church to Carl Frederick Tietgen on the condition that Tietgen would build a church similar to the original plans and then donate it to the state. Tietgen did just that. In return, Tietgen got the rights to subdivide the neighbouring plots for development. The deal was highly controversial at the time and Krieger was charged with corruption, though he was acquitted. 

    The church is mostly made of limestone and not marble as the name implies, due to budget cuts. 

    Copenhagen Travel Guide
    Denmark Travel Guide
  • Oslo, Walking Guides

    Industrial Heritage Along Oslo’s Akerselva River

    Self-Guided Walk on the Akerselva River in Oslo

    Here’s my self-guided walk on the Akerselva River in Oslo. The Akerselva is easily the most charming area in Oslo.

    The Akerselva (Aker River) is a 8.2km (5.1 mi) long river that flows through the middle of Oslo.

    The river can be credited with the development of Oslo. In the 19th century, it became the centre of the new industries coming to the city, as factories were able to utilise the power of the river.

    Today the river has been cleaned up and is known as ‘Oslo’s green lung’. Along the banks of the river are park areas, with the factories being converted into offices, schools, bars, cafes and restaurants.

    I honestly believe no trip to Oslo is complete without a visit to the river. While much of the city centre of Oslo feels like “Anywhere, Europe”, Akerselva has a distinctive personality that makes Oslo stand out from other Norwegian cities.

    This walk starts at Nydalen and continues all the way back to the city centre.

    In this article...

    Oslo Travel Guide

    You can find a detailed overview of Oslo, including practical, historic and travel information on our dedicated travel guide page. 

    Oslo Travel Guide

    The Walking Route

    Where we begin:

    We begin in Nydalen. To get there, take the metro to the stop ‘Nydalen’ and then walk through the shopping mall called ‘Torgbygget’. When you reach the river, cross the bridge and turn right. After 2-3 minutes, you’ll see the preserved factory. 

    Part One: Nydalen

    Nydalen is the first neighbourhood we will visit. The first mention of this neighbourhood was in 1578, when a farm called ‘Nygårdsdalen’, meaning ‘the valley belonging to the farm Nygård’, was mentioned in documents. 

    The area didn’t see major growth until the late 19th century, when the banks of the river were sold off and industrial buildings were constructed. The first type of industry in Nydalen was sawmills, but later the textiles industry came here and then the iron industry. 

    At the time, Nydalen was relatively isolated from Christiania, so it was important to build a community here. The workers were therefore very closely tied to the factory. For example, between 1857 and 1905 there was a school for the children who also had to work at the factory, and then from 1876 the companies financed their own midwives. When the tram came here in 1902, people moved further away and began to commute. 

    Today the neighbourhood is very modern with residential buildings, commercial and service establishments, shopping centres, eateries and corporate offices. The BI Norwegian Business School is located here, and since the opening of the metro in 2003 a lot of people have been attracted to the area. 

    Bakke Mølle

    Bakke Mølle is a mill established in 1811 by Hans Nielsen Hauge, a famous Norwegian preacher and founder of the ‘Haugien movement’. He had just been released from prison after preaching illegally, and he was given the nearby farm Bakkehaugen from his brother. He had a dam and mill built on the property and did well, selling the mill in 1824.

    For a while Bakke Mølle was owned by Peter Larsen & Co and was important for Nydalen. Eventually the mill was taken over by Christiania Spigerverk, who was expanding in Nydalen (see the historic photo above) and wanted the waterfall at Bakke Mølle. The building we can see became a storage building. 

    Today the building is used by the local government as offices. 

    Part Two: Bjølsen

    Bjølsen is a district in Oslo’s north. The area is characterised by old workers housing and green areas. Bjølsen has a high young population and there is a lot of active nightlife along Bergensgata. Bjølsen has traditonall been a working class area. Half the population is under the age of 40.

    Vannvoktboligen

    Due to pollution, Christiania’s water intake was moved to Maridalsvannet in 1867. This increased so much pressure that a reduction pool had to be built here. It is still located at the top of the hill, above today’s playground. Upstairs is a watchtower that is now a kindergarten.

    Idun Gjaerfabrikk

    This is the second yeast factory to start up in the area. Idun was one of the companies that lasted the longest along the river, however in 2005 it ended after more than 100 years of operation. You can see the great factory gate towards Treschows gate.

    From the 1930s they also produced broth, vinegar, mustard and other foods. After 1991, the production of Idun mustard and ketchup as well as vinegar was transferred out of Oslo to Staburet. Yeast and baked goods production in Oslo was discontinued in 2005 and moved to Sweden. Idun still has bakery production elsewhere in the country. The factory was one of the last factories to be closed down. 

    From 2010, the factory area was converted to apartments. The wrought iron gate, designed by Henrik Bull, has been preserved. 

    Treschows Bridge

    For a few years in the 19th century the towns water intake was located by the bridge. The city’s water supplies improved when wooden water pipes were replaced with iron pipes. But the water was filled with sawdust and soon the water supply was moved. The bridge is named after Admiral Gerhard Treschow, who owned Bjølsen farm and was behind several industrial companies in the area.

    Bjølsenfossen

    Bjølsenfossen has largely influenced the industrial history of the area. From the 14th century onwards there were mills here, before Bjølsen Valsemølle took over and became the country’s largest flour producer. The waterfall, called Little Niagara, is the largest in Akerselva with a drop of 16 metres. The waterfall is unfortunately locked inside the factory area. You can hear the waterfall from one of the bridges.

    This is the largest waterfall on Akerselva but can’t be seen today. There is a proposal to open a footpath on the west side of the waterfall. There is a music group named after this area, Bjølsen Valsemølle.

    The deep gorge through the waterfall is called Jerusalem after an old farm in the area.

    Bjølsen Valsemølle

    Was the country’s largest flour mill. Built in 1884. The mill was founded by Gustav Martinson in collaboration with Ole Amundsen who owned Bjølsen Mølle. The silo is from 1939. As recently as 1967, Akerselva delievered power to production. The mill had 60 horses carrying grain and flour between Vippetangen and the mills at Bjølsen and Nedre Foss. From 1918 horse transport was replaced with the grain tram.

    You can visit their website here: https://www.bjolsenvalsemolle.no/

    Svalgangshuset

    House that belongs to Bjølsen Valsemølle. Located at Treschows gate 4. It is a two storey house where all the rooms have access from a covered porch. The house is from 1850 and was the mill master residence.

    Directors House

    House that belongs to Bjølsen Valsemølle. Located at Treschows gate 4. It is a two storey house where all the rooms have access from a covered porch. The house is from 1850 and was the mill master residence.

    Lilleborg Fabrikker

    Since 1712, soap has been boiled here. Lilleborg Fabrikker was established by Ludvig Mariboe in 1812 as a clothing factory. The factory was established in the old Jerusalem Paper Mill from the latter half of the 18th century. The mill was bought by Mariboe in 1812 and he wound up in the mill operation and instead established a clothing factory with the name Lilleborg Fabrikk.

    Eventually they built an oil mill and a by-product of the oil was soap, so in 1842 the soap factory was established. The company was sold in 1862 to Peter Wessel Wind Kildal, who focused the company on the oil mill and soap factory. He grew Lilleborg to be one of the most important companies in Norway. In 1987, the production of household goods was moved to Ski, where it still takes place today.

    Bentse Brug Bentsegata 31-35

    Norway’s first paper mill was built here in the 1690s. It was primarily newsprint and brown paper that were produced. Paper production was discontinued in 1898. Ole Bentsen, the owner of the paper mill, had received royal privilege from King Christian V and the mill was the first of its kind in Norway. 

    In 1858, it became the first mill in Norway to use wood pulp. By 1865, other companies were doing the same and Bentse Brug struggled to compete. In 1889, it went bankrupt and was then acquired. The buildings were demolished in 1976. 

    Part Three: Sagene

    Sagene is a district located 2-3km north of the city centre. Originally associated with factories, today Sagene is one of the more attractive areas to live in in Oslo.

    The area used to be a farm called Vøyen, which is from pre-Christian times. Nonneseter monastery owned Vøyen and Sagene with a mill and fishing rights. Christian IV laid the area out as an urban land in 1629. The main building on Nedre Vøyen still exists at Maridalsveien 87.

    From the 16th century Sagene had a population associated with sawmills. In 1624, the king decided that only half-timbered houses should be built in Christiania, and those who couldn’t afford it had to move to Sagene. In 1683, 89 people lived on Sagene.

    Factories were built up in the 1700s and 1800s and this attracted people to the area. In 1875, 2000 workers were here. A horse tram was completed around 1880.

    Myraløkka

    Has always been a popular place for ids to play and swim. The valley is shaped like an amphitheatre because huge amounts of clay were excavated here for making bricks. Akerselva had many brickworks, and the business was seasonal. The bricks were mined in the summer and the clay was burned at high temperatures. Under the round mound at the bottom of the amphitheatre is the factory chimney buried. At the top of Myraløkka is English-style workers housing that was completed in 1914.

    Myrens Verksted

    This is one of Akerselva’s pioneer companies. It was known as the ‘factories factory’ as it made and repaired machines for other companies. 

    Today the building is used by NRK. 

    Vøyen Brua

    From the beginning of the 17th century, the towns drinking water source was here. This was the city’s first public water intake. Hollowed out logs led the water to Akershus Fortress. For a fee, citizens could have branch pipes added to water posts in their own courtyard. At the same time it was common for the water to be filled with rotten sawdust.

    Woman's Monument

    Below the bridge is a monument of Betzy Kjelsberg (1866-1950), a female pioneer and Norway’s first female factory inspector. As a factory inspector, she had responsibility for children and women’s working conditions throughout the country.

    Nords Isproduksjon

    Before the time of refrigerators, goods were cooled down with ice. In the 19th century, Martin used Edvard North Akerselva for ice production. He cut out ice blocks and the demand for ice was so great that eventually he dammed up parts of the Ila valley to make ice ponds. The water he collected was put into one large ice rink down by Waldemar Thranes gate.

    Glads Mølle

    Yellow building. It is from 1736 and is called Glads Mølle. It is Akerselva’s oldest preserved factory building and is the only listed industrial building. It made paper and is still a printing house inside.

    Beierbrua

    Named after Anders Beyer, who owned it in 1671. It is one of the finest bridges along the river and is the factory girls bridge. The bridge was a link between the textile industry on the west of the river and the residential areas on the east side. The sculpture is from 1986 and is made by Ellen Jacobsen.

    Hjula Væverier

    The founder of this company was Halvor Schou, who had been studying the brewing of beer in England. He came back to Norway, however, with plans to make a textiles factory. His factory became the largest textile factory in Akerselva. The factory supplied dresses, shirts, and bus clothes. It closed in 1857. 

    Due to the American Civil War, cotton supplies became low so Schou began producing wool sweaters. 

    The clothing company closed in 1957. Today, a real estate company called Hjula Vaeveri Halvor Schou currently operates.

    The buildings still stand today and characterise the area of Akerselva. 

    Hønse Lovisa House

    This charming red house was a sawmills residence and today it is a nice little café.

    It is known as Hønse-Lovisa’s House. Why?

    Hønse-Lovisa was an important literary figure in the play The Kid. The name has been associated with the house since the 1970s because it was used in the film adaptation from 1974. The play takes place in the industrial area along the river at the end of the 19th century. There is an older woman called Hønse-Lovisa. Her house is called ‘Hønsereiret’ because she takes care of single mothers. She gives the factory girls who are injured a roof over their heads so they can keep their kids even if they are illegitimate cildren. The character represented a revolt against societal norms that existed about single mothers and their children in the 19th century.

    Workers Museum

    This is an old wood house building on Sagveien 28. The museum tells about Akerselva’s labour and industrial history. A little further away is an apartment on Sagveien 8 which shows the living conditions of the workers.

    Vøyens Bomuldsspinderi

    South of Beierbrua is the textile giant Vøyens Bomuldsspinderi, founded by Knud Graah. The textile factory started in 1846 and lasted until 1955. At the time the river had colour in it due to the cloth dyeing. Even the rates were green, blue or purpose. If you go down the stairs on the west side of the river you can feel the splash from Nedre Vøyenfallene.

    Part Four: Øvre Grunnerløkka

    Grunerlokka was named after the mint master Friedrich Gruner who owned Nedre Foss Mill. Grunerlokka was incorporated into Oslo in 1858. Before it became part of Oslo, a neighbourhood of affordable wooden houses was built here called “New York”.

    From 1861 the land was sold off to be developed.

    The district became an immigrant district, and many of the Jews who immigrated at the end of the 19th century settled here. Most immigrants came from Nordic countries. In recent times, it is Pakistanis and Turks who left their mark on the district. Grunerlooka has also always been popular with artists, and Edvard Munch lived in both Fossveien 7 and Thorvald Meyers gate 48 (now Shous plass 1). In the latter he painted Sick Child and Spring.

    Sannerbrua

    Discharges from factories and sewerage made the river a stinking puddle. It was the worst in the summer. It was not so bad on Sundays when the factories weren’t operating. It got so bad that the conservatives in 1915 proposed to put a lid on the river was a river when it should be a smile. That same year, the city council decided that the river should be cleaner and there should be parks. During the cleaning strikes in the 1920s the bins were emptied into the river and as late as 1962 there were 71 outlets from the public sewer system into the river.

    Åmot Bridge

    Suspension bridge from 1851. Was moved here in 1952. On the bridge we find the inscription “100 men I carry, but fail during steady march”

    Christiania Seildugsfabrik (Seilduken)

    The canvas was one of the largest workplaces along the river, founded in 1858. The factory produced canvas and ropes, and people made a pilgrimage here to look at the building – which was described as the second largest after the castle. Today the Oslo Academy of Arts has moved to the plot, and if you take the hill up by Åmot Bridge, you find the college patio.

    One of the best preserved industrial plants. The factory made sails for sailing ships but gradually expanded to fishing equipment, nets, ropes and sacks. It was established by Ole Hauge. Most of the employees were women and the working conditions are among the worst in the entire city. In 1908 there were 900 employees here. Production was discontinued in 1960 when there was overproduction of textiles in the world.

    In 1999, the buildings were given to the Oslo Academy of Arts.

    Akers Mek. Verksted

    On the site by the factory is a small half-timbered house by the river. This was the Akers Mek. Workshop in 1841. Eventually the business moved to Pipervika.

    The founder was War Captain P.S. Steenstrup, who owned the factory until his death in 1863. He was the master of Norway’s first steamship, D.S. Constitutionen. He had built Carl Johans Shipyard as the navy’s main shipyard.

    The company moved by the Oslofjord in 1854 and grew into a shipyard.

    Kuba

    There are different views about the origin of the name Cuba, but one of the theories is that the name can be seen in connection with the wooden houses called “new york” further down. It is a large circular square on the west side of the river that used to have a giant gas bell owned by Oslo gassverk. For a long time, gas was the competitor to electricity, and gas was used in street lights. Gas was produced by heading up coal, and therefore there is a lighthouse here. The gas bell has been torn down, but the lighthouse is restored and has re-emerged as a café.

    Christiania was the second city in the Nordic region to have its own gasworks after Christiania. The municipality took over the gasworks in 1878. The gas plant improved the city’s street lighting, but it was also in demand for indoor lighting in factories, institutions and in prosperous homes. When electricity came, gas was outcompeted as an indoor light source. For private space heating, gas was of little important. When the gas burner came for cooking in 1890s, gas was in demand.

    During the 1920s electric stoves became more common and street lighting was electrified. The last gas lantern disappeared in 1929. The company continued because many businesses preferred to use gas in production rather than electricity because gas heat was quicker. However, the gasworks was closed in 1976. The old office building in Storgata has a historic sign on it.

    The Silos

    This belonged to Bjølsen Valsemølle and was completed in 1953. In an architectural competition in the 1980s it was proposed to turn it into a hotel, but it was taken over by the student organisation and turned into a student house. In 2002 it received the Oslo City Architecture Prize. If we look through the window in the first one, we can see a tram – this is what the grain tram looked like.

    Part Five: Nedre Grunerløkka

    Nedre Foss

    From ancient times the boats went all the way up here. Today, only the fish take the route at Nedre Foss. There are traces of what is perhaps the country’s oldest mill operation. The monks from Hovedøya had a mill here, which was later taken over by the King at the Reformation in 1537 and then went by the name of the King’s mill.

    The farm was owned by Hovedøya monastery and was well located for business since the only bridge over Akerselva was here. A fee was charged for crossing the bridge until 1865. The king took over the farm during the Reformation in 1537 and in the early 17th century instructed farmers to cut timber and drive it to the rising saw at Nedre Foss. The farm was called “Kongens Mølle”.

    Salmon went up Nedre Foss and the fishing provided income to the farmer.

    The farm was subdivided in 1668 and after that Fredrik Gruner bought the farm. His surname gave name to the neighbourhood. The family owned the property for extended periods of time. In 1801, farming was largely discontinued. Plans for dredging the river and establishing a harbour at Nedre Foss were discussed in the 1840s and 1850s. In the 1850s, Gruner subdivided 53 plots of land 30 metres south of the farm, and the wooden building known as ‘New York’ was built.

    The silo was in operation until 2000.

    A mill has been here since before the 1200s and mill operations took place here until 1985. The main building from the farm remains – it was restored and opened in 2017 as a restaurant, but later that year parts of the building were damaged by fire.

    Nedre Foss Park

    Here you’ll find Grunerløkka’s oldest building. The main building is from 1802, however there has been a farm here since the Middle Ages when it was owned by the monastery on Hovedøya, later by the Gruner family, and most recently by Bjølsen Valsemølle. There has been mill operations since the 13th century until 1985. The municipality bought the areas by Nedra Waterfall to build one of Akerselva’s greenest areas.

    Grunerhagen

    The Gruner family, who gave the name to the area Grunerlokka, laid out a legendary garden on the east side of the river. They found a pond, terraces, gazebos, fruit trees, geese and peacocks. The garden was private and surrounded by a fence. Today only the name survives.

    The family laid out the garden in the beginning of the 18th century as a magnificent garden. The park had terraces, avenues, a pond with gazebos on stilts and a zoo with peacocks, geese and turkeys. There are no pictures of the old garden. The park was completely redesigned in the middle of the 19th century. When Edvard Munch lived on Fossveien and made pictures of the park there was still a pond. In the early 20th century, the park was dilapidated. During the war it was used for growing food. In 1986 a real estate company wanted to build offices, hotels and homes in the area. After major protests from the residents, through a state zoning plan for Nedre Foss, the park was preserved.

    Vulkan & Mathallen

    Vulkan Jernstøberi was built by Akerselva in 1873 and was a pioneer in Norway in the production of steel bridges. The old area now has hotels, restaurants, the Dansens hus, the School of Communications and Mathallen Oslo which moved here in 1908.

    Former industrial area. In 2013-2014 the area was transformed into a business and residential area. In earlier times there was a sawmill here. The sawmill closed in 1840. There was also a cement factory, brickworks, veneer saw and chair factory here, as well as Oslo’s first publicly available shower path.

    In 1873, Vulkan Jernstøberi took over the site. They specialised in steel bridges for railways and roads, but also had other assignments, such as the dome at the old Colosseum cinema. It closed in the late 1950s. The buildings were then rente dout for various business and office purposes.

    The redevelopment has been praised with several awards for the way the old industrial area has been redeveloped.

    Grunerbrua

    Akerselva’s oldest bridge was where Grunerbrua is today. Until Vaterlandsbrua was built in 1654 this was the only connection between east and west. Before the bridge was called Frysja Bridge, Akers Bridge and Møllebroen. Today th ename restifies that the Gruner family owned the bridge. You used to have to pay tolls to get to the city, and this was the only bridge over the river. Battles took place here during the civil war.

    Christiania Bryggeri

    For a time, the city had many breweries and beer was promoted as a healthy drink. The Christiania brewery was located at Maridalsveien 3, where the city archives are located today.

    Ved Brenneriveien

    One of the city’s popular concert venues, Blå, is located on Brenneriveien, and on Sundays there is a market with arts and crafts. Right by the bridhe someone has put up the sign “Ingens gate”. On the opposite side we find a curved building that once housed Indigo, Akerselva’s Klaedesfabrik, which engaged in cloth dyeing, and further down is the Hausmania culture house.

    There are older industrial buildings on both sides of the street. The left side has a huge complex that used to be a brewery and food factory from 1855 to 1972, later small industry, cultural activities and offices. At number 9 there has been a textile factory since the mid 1850s,

    The street is known today for its concerts, markets, and bars.

    Norwegian Design & Architecture Centre

    Oslo’s oldest transformer station. Today it has exhibitions on design and architecture.

    Jakob Church

    The only listed church in Oslo that is not a medieval church. Consecrated in 1880 and is located in the former Ankerløkken cemetery, which was a cholera cemetery. The church was threatened with closure in the 1980s, but has remerged as a cultural church.

    Ankerbrua

    Named after one of Oslo’s richest families, the Anker family, but is also called the adventure bridge. The bronze decorations from 1937 are made by Dyre Vaa and taken from Norwegian folk tales.

    Part Six: Vaterland

    Vaterland is a district. The name comes from the Dutch Waterland and can refer to the water-stretched land at the mouth of Akerselva. Dutch schooners docked here to load timber in the 17th century. The first settlement here was older than Christiania, but the suburb was burned by the governor in 1658. After the construction of Vaterland’s Bridge in 1654, it was an important gateway to the city.

    Vaterland was a centre for peasant trade and also became a place for pubs, brothels and prisons. Vaterland was the scene of organised crime well into the 20th century. Most of the buildings in the area were demolished from the end of the 1950s in connectionw with the construction of the metro between Tøyen and Jernbanetorget. Today many big buildings are at Vaterland and a lot of the old part of the district is gone.

    Nybrua

    Here people had berths, but in the 1960s everything was levelled with the ground and the lower part of the river laid under a lid. The boat people were moved to Hovedøya and the old buildings were replaced with high-rise buildings and traffic machines. It’s like Vaterland had ever been nice. Nybrua was built in 1827 because King Karl Johan demanded a finer for the entrance than the previous bridge. The emergency room is located here.

    Hausmannsbrua

    Named after Lieutenant general Fredrik F. Hausmann. The bridge is a cast iron bridge from 1892 and is worthy of protection and equipped with ‘iron lace’. It was built exceptionally solid because the city had procured an 18-ton modern steamroller that required a strong bridge. When the bridge was expanded to five lanes in the 1980s, they managed to copy the decoration and retain the bridges appearance.

    Vaterlandsbrua

    Everyone who came from the east of the city had to go over Vaterlandsbrua. Over Vaterland went one of the towns oldest bridge connections, and the first Vaterlandsbrua was built in 1654. Earlier was the city’s sewer lines, and when Christiania’s first sewer line launched in 1846, no one found that it was sent out to Vaterlandsbrua. The sludge led to a fermentation process so that gas bubbles formed on the river surface, which the kids lit to make bangs or so-called gunpowder bits.

    Vaterland Park

    Here you’ll see the bust of Olafia Johannisdottir (1863-1924), an Icelander who lived and worked as a slum nurse among prostitutes and the poor in Vaterland until her death.

    Here the river enters a 500m long tunnel before it appears again by the sea. There used to be two more bridges down to the river, but today they are just a memory.

    Brugata

    Brugata was Christiania’s access road from the east and north after the construction of Vaterland’s Bridge in 1654. Peasant farms were built here, and some can still be seen today. The western part of the street is today dominated by restaurants, immigrant shops, and a shopping centre.

    Number 3 Is Teddy’s Soft Bar, which opened in 1958. In the backyard you can see the remains of a peasant farm that was probably built in the middle of the 18th century.

    Brugata 6 was a farm built in the 1760s.

    Brugata 9 is Den Røde Mille. The house is from 1870 and it is built on the foundation of a house that stood there in the 18th century.

    Number 14 is a half-timbered house from the end of the 18th century. It used to have a guest house on the ground floor.

    End of the Walk

    The walk ends at Brugata, where you can turn right off the river and make your way into the city. Brugata is only a couple blocks from Oslo Central Station.

    I hope you enjoyed this beautiful walk down the Akerselva River! Let me know in the comments what you think about the walk. 

    Oslo Travel Guide

    You can find a detailed overview of Oslo, including practical, historic and travel information on our dedicated travel guide page. 

    Oslo Travel Guide
  • Finland, Museums, Turku

    Turku Castle: Finland’s Most Important Historic Site

    Turku Castle: Finland’s Most Important Historic Site

    Turku, Finland’s historic capital, is located on the west coast towards Sweden. Located on an island out into the bay is Turku Castle, a medieval castle that was founded in the 13th century as a bastion and administrative centre for Finland during the union with Sweden. It’s easy to visit Turku Castle from Helsinki for the day, or make it part of your visit to Turku.

    I visited Turku Castle on a cold winter day in February 2022 and found it fascinating. Helsinki is such a modern city (by comparison), so I didn’t think there were many of these historic places to be seen in Finland. Turku certainly proved me wrong, and this Castle is an excellent example of Nordic medieval castles.

    Here’s my guide to Turku Castle, including its historic importance and the exhibitions inside.

    Turku Travel Guide
    Finland Travel Guide

    In this article...

    History of Turku Castle

    Transformation to Living Quarters

    Eventually Turku Castle’s position shifted as various Duke’s were given control over the Castle. It was decided to expand the castle into more of a living quarters. The first major renovation took place in the 14th century. A kitchen and bakery were also added to the Castle. By the end of the century, Turku Castle was one of the largest and most important castles in the Nordic countries.

    In the 15th century one of the most remembered residents came and left his touch on the Cathedral. During the reign of Sten Sture the Elder, the castle underwent major changed during the most extensive construction works of the Middle Ages in Finland. Most importantly, the Catholic Church, known today as Sture Church, was built in the Castle. The Great Castle Hall was also expanded to two naves.

    The Vasas & the Renaissance Palace

    The next important residents were the Vasa. When Gustav Vasa became King of Sweden in the 16th century, he had Turku Castle expanded to include the bailey. He had visited the Castle and found it outdated and unpleasant. The Castle was also given a more Renaissance feel following German, Spanish and Polish examples. The Renaissance part of the Castle is known for being unique in Finnish conditions and was the only example of Renaissance-style court life in Finland. Since then, the Castle has never been added or extended, just repaired.

    Gustav Vasa’s younger son, Johan, moved into the Castle to serve as Duke of Finland. He had parties in the Castle as well as tournaments. His wife, Catherine, brought jewels, gold, velvet, curtains, tapestries, nightwear, and forks to the Castle, all of which had not really been seen in Finland before. Around 600 people worked at the Castle under Johan.

    Johan’s older brother, Erik, was King of Sweden and the two brothers did not get along. At the time, Sweden was at war with Poland, and Catherine was a Polish princess. Erik’s forces besieged Turku Castle for three months before Johan and Catherine were imprisoned.

    Eventually Johan became King of Sweden after a coup and Erik was kept prisoner at Turku Castle. After Johan died, his son Sigismund became the King of Sweden. From Catherine’s side, he had already been declared the King of Poland. This caused conflict between him and the Swedish Nobles, but the Finnish Nobles supported Sigismund from his fathers time as Duke. Turku Castle was besieged two more times, with the second time in 1599 ending with the massacre at the town hall of Turku on the 10th of November 1599.

    17th Century Decline

    The castle was used throughout the 17th century, but it was considered to be in bad condition by this time. There were a number of sieges and accidents at the castle throughout the 17th century. For example, in 1614, when King Gustav II Adolf visited, a huge fire destroyed the wooden structure of the main castle almost completely. After this, the main castle was abandoned and partly used as a store, while the residents moved into the bailey.

    When governor general Pietari Brahe lived here, the rooms were furnished for use of the official scribes and the fort had an armoury, shoemakers workshop, sauna, and brewery. The Castle was still important for social life where people dressed up, celebrated, and ate the European way.

    Conversion to a Prison & Russian Rule

    From the late 18th century to the late 19th century, part of the Castle was converted into a prison. Sometimes there were almost 20 prisoners to the one cell. In the winter, the air was musty and diseases were common.

    When the Finnish War began in 1808 the Castle was taken over by the Russian navy and handed back to the Finnish authorities a couple decades later, when the country became an autonomous state within the Russian empire. The Castle was then converted to a Russian barracks.

    Museum Conversion and Major Restoration

    Towards the end of the 19th century, interest in the Castle began to be renewed and the Turku Historical Museum was founded in the bailey in 1881.

    In the 1920s and 1930s, the first major restoration work began. During the work, wall paintings from the 1530s were found in the room above the gate.

    The renovation of the castle began before World War II but was interrupted by Finland’s two wars with the Soviet Union, was completed in 1987. The castle was damaged in aerial bombardments, especially in the summer of 1941 when firebombs hit the castle.

    The restored castle was handed over on 12 October 1998 to the city of Turku. The building is today owned by the Finnish state and is entrusted to the use of the city of Turku. The castle functions as a historic museum.

    Castle Construction

    Turku Castle has a medieval keep and Renaissance bailey. The keep is a square fort with two square gateway towers, and the thickness of the walls is around 5 metres (16 feet). The castle used to be surrounded by a moat.

    You can see the video below that outlines all the different stages of growth.

    https://vimeo.com/108994016

    Visiting the Castle

    The Main Castle

    The Main Castle is where you will visit first. You wander through the rooms, following a marked trail, and can read information signs that give an overview of the both the Castle’s history as well as Finland and Sweden’s history.

    There are two separate sections of the Castle when you enter: the medieval castle and the renaissance castle. They are clearly marked with arrows. In each room, there is a number on the wall and a matching description, so you never feel lost.

    There are lots of stairs and awkward entranceways, but this adds to the authenticity of the castle.

    Soon after entering the medieval castle you will see some of the 16th century artwork that was uncovered under the whitewashed walls. There’s nothing drawing attention to it, but you can’t miss it.

    Each room has an information sign in Swedish, Finnish and English with historic drawings of the castle and fun little stories. Take a look at the one above – Jordan the prisoner with multiple wives!

    The walkway up to the Sture Church

    Sture Church

    Sture Church

    The Nuns Chapel

    The most impressive rooms are the Sture Church and the Nuns Chapel, which hold the collection of medieval religious statues, something not seen elsewhere in Finland.

    The Nuns Chapel was built in the 1480s as a dining room for the Lord of the Castle, but it was given to Duchess Catherine to be her devotional chamber after she moved to Turku. After the Reformation, Catholic churches were referred to as monastic churches. The name of the Nuns Chapel therefore doesn’t reference actual numbers, but Catherine herself. In the 17th century it was used for storing flour and in the 18th century it was an armoury.

    In the Guest Room you can see one. of the first windows of Turku Castle. Before then, pig skin would be used instead of glass! Interestingly, the guest room was left empty and furniture was only brought in when needed.

    The King’s State Room was Finland’s most important secular room from the early 14th century. Nearly all of Sweden’s medieval Kings stayed in this room.

    The Kings and Queens Halls date from the 1550s, when the medieval fortification was turned into a Renaissance palace by Duke Johan and Catherine.

    The Bailey

    The exhibitions in the bailey focus on everyday life in the castle, its festivities, court and staff. I found this part a little less interesting as it feels very much like what you’d find in any other European castle. However, this will definitely be of interest to most people!

    Practical Information

    Opening Hours & Prices

    You can find up-to-date information about pricing on the museum website here.

    In winter, the museum is open Tuesday – Sunday from 10am to 6pm, while in summer it is open every day from 10am to 6pm.

    Getting There

    The castle is located out of Turku town centre, making it a little difficult to walk there. Thankfully, taking the bus is fairly easy.

    From Market Square, take bus line 1 from Platform D1 towards the harbour (satama in Finnish). The bus stop is in front of the castle.

    If you are driving, parking is available.

    Guided Tours

    Guided tours are only available in Finnish, though it is possible to book a private tour in English.

    Tell Us What You Think!

    Have you been to Turku Castle? Let us know in the comments.

    Turku Travel Guide
    Finland Travel Guide
  • Central Norway, Dombås, European Highways, Gudbrandsdalen, Hamar, Lillehammer, Oppdal, Oslo, Otta, Ringebu, Road-trips, Trondheim

    Drive it Yourself: Oslo to Trondheim on the E6

    Drive it Yourself: Oslo to Trondheim on the E6

    The E6 is the longest road that runs through Norway. Starting in Svinesund, on the Swedish border, it goes all the way to Kirkenes on the Russian border, stretching 2,576km.

    The busiest stretch of road, and the part that we cover here, is the stretch between Oslo and Trondheim. The E6 also follows the old Pilgrims Road that went from Hallvard Cathedral in Oslo to Nidaros Cathedral in Trondheim, and you will see many historic places associated with the old pilgrim’s road.

    This guide will start at the part of the E6 shortly after Oslo Airport, when you cross into Eidsvoll County.

    In this article...

    Downloadable Version of This Guide

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

    View at the Store

    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Information about facilities along the way

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the region & towns
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Facilities including supermarkets, toilets, petrol, hotels, cafes, restaurants with addresses.

    Oslo to Trondheim on the E6

    Oslo

    This drive begins just north of Oslo’s Gardermoen Airport, but you can learn more about Oslo via the travel guide below. 

    Oslo Travel Guide

    Eidsvoll Municipality

    The first municipality that you cross through after Oslo is Eidsvoll.

    The part ‘eid’ means “a road passing around a waterfall”, while ‘voll’ means “meadow” or “field”. The name therefore refers to the fact that people from the districts around the lake Mjøsa (you will see it later) were sailing down the river Vorma and people from Romerike were sailing up the river. They had to enter this area by passing the Sundfossen Waterfall. Because of this, the site has been an important meeting place long before the introduction of Christianity. The coat-of-arms depict a scale as a symbol of justice, representing the old court.

     

    Eidsvoll is mentioned in the Old Norse Sagas back to the 11th century. The sagas were a court and assembly for the eastern part of Norway mostly due to the lake and the river that served as a transport road. Historically the main industry was agriculture, despite the fact that there is a lot of clay in the soil.

    The town of Eidsvold in Queensland, Australia, and Eidsvold Township in Minnesota use the old spelling of the municipality. The current ‘Eidsvoll’ was adopted in Norway in 1918.

    Small Detour: Eidsvoll Town

    Eidsvoll is a historically important place in Norway. You must leave the E6 and take a small detour, but it is worth it. Eidsvoll Church is an old church from 1200 and is built in the Romanesque style. The church is located on the old Pilgrims Road and is one of the important stops along the way.

    Eidsvoll Verk (how it is written on Google Maps) refers to the smelt iron ore that King Christian IV of Denmark opened in 1624. He was relying on the excellent water power from the Andelva River. The smeltery was taken over by Kongsberg Silver Mines. Carsten Anker bought the works in 1794 and restored it, setting up the production of stoves and similar iron goods. He also took residence in Eidsvoll, building a manor house now known as Eidsvollsbygningen. The Eidsvoll Verk has closed, but the name still remains. The old mill can be seen in the town.

    In 1854, Eidsvoll became the end point for the first railroad line in Norway from Oslo.

    This is the site where the constitutional assembly met to draft and sign the Constitution of Norway on the 17th of May 1814. The building is considered to be one of Norway’s most important national monuments and the cradle of modern Norway. Today it is a museum. The home was lived in by Carsten Anker, owner of the iron works, lived here during the time when it was used to sign the constitution. He went bankrupt in 1822 and the ownership of the estate was transferred to British creditors. A group of private citizens led by Henrik Wergeland organised a fundraiser that allowed them to buy the building with the pavilion and surrounding garden. When the purchase was finalised, the group donated the property to the Norwegian estate.

    I will visit the building eventually and write a more detailed overview of it.

    Minnesund

    Minnesund is a small village on the southern tip of Lake Mjøsa at the place where the lake flows into the Vorma River. Minnesund is an old ferry pier and has always been important for travel and communications. 

    Lake Mjøsa

    Lake Mjøsa is the largest lake in Norway and the 35th largest in Europe. It is also Norway’s and Europe’s fourth-deepest lake with the greatest depth being 453 metres. Lake Mjøsa provides drinking water for up to 100,000 people.

    The area around the lake is one of the most fertile agricultural districts in Norway.

    The meaning of the word ‘Mjøsa’ is unknown.

    In summer the surface temperature averages between 13 and 16 degrees and up to 20 degrees deep in the Furnesfjorden. Parts of the lake freeze over in December. In January, almost all the lake is covered with ice and in particularly cold winters the entire lake can be covered with ice in February.

    Mjøsa is home to Norway’s largest inland fishery and is also one of the country’s most species-rich lakes. 21 fish species have been found in the lake, including perch, trout, pike and other species.

    The lake has also been an important transport and traffic artery, even when frozen. The lake is commonly mentioned in the Viking Sagas and the transport of goods on the lake was probably extensive and well organized in the Viking Age and Hamar’s heyday in the High Middle Ages. Salt, grain, iron, coffee, sugar and tobacco went north, while alcohol, glass, timber, ore, cheese, butter and grain went south. Steamships were launched on the lake in 1840 for better transport.

    Innlandet County

    You will now be driving through Innlandet County. 

    Stange Municipality

    Stange is the first municipality you will pass through in Innlandet county. There have been settlements here since well before the Viking Age. Because of the old transport route went along here, there has been trade and hospitality here since time immoral. Stange Church, with is in Stange village, is first mentioned in 1225 in Håkon Håkonssons saga. The current building is from 1250.

    Stange is one of the largest agricultural municipalities in Innlandet. Norway’s oldest agricultural school, Jønsberg High School, is located here. The high school teaches in nature management, agriculture, animal husbandry, forestry, and biology, as well as organic farming, mathematics and chemistry. The school was established in 1847. You will pass the school on your right shortly before going into Hamar.

    Espa

    Espa is a small village that saw fighting during World War II, when battles were fought between Norwegians and Germans to prevent the Germans from following the King as he fled Oslo. The Espa Servicesenter has become kind of (?) famous because it has sold a large number of buns in recent years, earning the nickname ‘bolle land’ . You can visit their website here: https://www.bolleland.no/

    Hamar Municipality

    Hamar municipality is named after the main town in the area – Hamar. We’ll cover Hamar next, but first lets talk about the coat-of-arms for the municipality. The coat-of-arms depict a Black Grouse sitting on top of a pine tree. The first version of this coat-of-arms was depicted in 1553

    Hamar

    Hamar is the first major town on the E6. It is also one of the major historic towns in Norway and was one of the powerful centres of Norway during the Viking and medieval times. 

    You can read our separate guide to Hamar below. 

    Hamar Travel Guide

    Ringsaker Municipality

    Ringsaker Municipality gets its name from the old Ringsaker Church. The coat-of-arms shows a moose; the image is taken from a pre-historic cave painting that has been found in the municipality. The area is mentioned in King Harald Hårfagres Saga as well as St. Olavs Saga when St. Olav was christening the area.

    Ringsaker is primarily an agricultural and lumbering region. 

    Brumunddal

    The town of Brumunddal (population 11,019) grew as a settlement with the establishment of the Dovre train line in 1894. The major industry in the town is agriculture and forestry. Close to Brumunddal is the Mjøsa Tower (Mjøstårnet), the world’s tallest wooden building. It is 18 floors and 85.4 metres high. 

    Rudshøgda

    Rudshøgda is best known as the childhood home of author, poet, playwright, songwriter and musician Alf Prøysen. Prøysenhuset is a cultural centre and museum honoring his memory. He wrote the very popular Mrs Pepperpot series of childrens books.

    Moelv

    The town of Moelv (population 4,459) was built around various mills that were utilising the power of the Moelva River. The largest industrial company here is Moelven Industrier, which is one of Scandinavia’s leading suppliers of building products.

    Rock carvings have been found in Moelv that can be traced back tot he Stone Age and are generally regarded as the best-preserved rock carvings in Norway. Additionally, the Ringsaker Church is located here. It was completed in the middle of the 12th century and is dedicated to St. Olav. 

    North of Moelv is Tovsteinsringen (The twelve-stone ring). This is an ancient stone circle that is often compared to Stonehenge (this one is much, much smaller). It is believed to have been the site of a burial ritual, likely for a wealthy, high-ranking person.

    Lillehammer Municipality

    Lillehammer Municipality is named after the major town of Lillehammer, your next detour. The name Lillehammer means “Little Hammer” and was developed as a new trading town on the Lake Mjøsa after Hamar, hence the name. The coat-of-arms depict a birkebeiner, a 12th-century civil war fighter, carrying a shield, who is skiing down a silver/white mountainside under a blue sky. The birkebieners carried the future King Haakon from Lillehammer to Rena on skis during the Civil War.

    There have been settlements here since the Iron Age and the market here was mentioned in Håkon Håkonssons saga in 1390. It was also believed to have a site for the Ting assembly. However, despite this history, Lillehammer was registered as a trading down in 1827.

    Lillehammer

    Lillehammer is the next major stop on the E6. There is so much to say about Lillehammer, so check out our separate travel guide page. 

    Lillehammer Travel Guide

    Øyer Municipality

    Øyer Municipality is the first municipality within the Gudbrandsdalen region. The coat-of-arms show a silver-coloured wooden ring on a green background. This is a type of ring that was historically made of wood and was used to fasten a tree trunk to a rope to haul it over the land. Similar devices were used all over Norway, but this shape was typical for the area.

    Øyer was one of the area’s most severely impacted by the Black Death in 1349-1350. It is believed that up to 75% of residents here died, and many of the farms were deserted until the late 17th century.

    Øyer is a farming and logging municipality, though recreation is increasingly through the ski centres.

    Tretten

    Tretten is a small village with a population of 860. In 2022, it made the news as the bridge that crosses the river completely collapsed. 

    Ringebu Municipality

    Ringebu municipality is located within the traditional Gudbrandsdalen region and has a population of 4,800. The largest and main settlement is the town of Ringebu. The coat-of-arms represents shows three flames, representing the three valleys and three parishes in the municipality.

    Ringebu

    Ringebu may be a small village, but it is home to Norway’s largest stave church. Read our travel guide below. 

    Ringebu Travel Guide

    Sør-Fron Municipality

    Sør-Fron Municipality is a small municipality in the Gudbrandsdalen valley. The coat-of-arms show a white or silver club on a green background. The club is reminiscent of the club that Kolbein Sterke used in 1021 when King Olav Haraldsson met the people of Fron and Dale-Gudbrand at Hundorp. The meeting is depicted in the Norse Sagas.

    The most important industries here are agriculture, industrial factories, and tourism.

    The famous play Peer Gynt is staged annually at Lake Gålå in the mountains around Sør-Fron. It is believed that Peer Gynt is set in the area.

    Hundorp

    Hundorp is the administrative centre of the municipality. Historically, Hundorp is a very important place. It was the centre of the petty kingdom of the Gudbrand Valley and as such an important place in terms of religion and politics.

    All this took place at Dale-Gudbrand’s farm. Dale-Gudbrand is a famous historic figure from the 1100s. He is mentioned in multiple Norse sagas, but most famously in the story of Olav the Holy christianising Gudbrandsdalen. You can read the story here. The image above is a drawing of Olav christianising the farmers. 

    Around the farm are five large grave mounds, though sadly one of them was removed. The four remaining are between 23 and 32 metres (75ft and 105ft). Additionally, there’s a square ring of stones and the remains of a round ring of stones, indicating a possible worshipping site.

    Today it is a Pilgrim Centre. There is a small farm shop with local food products and souvenirs. You can also spend the night there if you wish. Click here to visit their website. 

    Harpefoss

    Harpefoss is a small town with a population of 335. The name comes from the railway development in 1896, when the railway station was named Harpefoss. People have lived here for centuries, though, and old names were Skurdal and Ryssland. Harpefoss is the name of the waterfall that separates two hamlets.

    During the railway development, Harpefoss Hotel was built. It is the only hotel left that is one of the original hotels from the railway development period that still stands. It is built in Swiss style with neo-Gothic features. It has long since been closed down as a hotel, and after a period as a country store, the house is now a residence.

    In Harpefoss you can stay in a historic farm! 

    The farm ‘Sygard Grytting’ has belonged to the same family since the 14th century. The current owner is the 16th generation since the year 1534. 

    It’s believed that as far back as Christianity goes, pilgrims would stay at the property on their way towards Nidaros in Trondheim. Because of these, there are unusual details in some of the buildings that are very similar to details found in monasteries. 

    You can stay in historic houses from the 17th century – the same houses the pilgrims stayed in – or buildings from the 19th century. 

    The property is still a working farm. 

    Agriculture specialises in sheep, grain, grass production and forestry. In ancient times, the operation was very versatile and the farm was self-sufficient in most things.

    Sødorp Church

    Sødorp Church is a wooden cruciform church from 1752. It’s believed the first church on the site was a stave church, but it was replaced in 1570 and no trace of it remains today. In 1752, the church was replaced once again with the church we have today.

    Originally the church stood in Sødorp, a small town just south of Vinstra – hence its name. However, Vinstra emerged as a major town in the early 20th century, and it was decided to move the church there. In 1910, the church was moved to its present location. 

    The 18th century church originally had a very high tower, but it was destroyed by wind in 1850. The church then got a stumpy small tower (click here for a photo of it). When it was moved to Vinstra, they made a new high tower for the church. You can see photos of the construction process here, here, and its completion here. 

    Much of the interior is from the 18th century, including the altarpiece, pulpit, choir arch, crucifix and relief figures. The soapstone baptismal font is from the Middle Ages, though.

    In the graveyard you’ll find a memorial stone to the real Peer Gynt. 

    Nord-Fron Municipality

    Nord-Fron is a small municipality with a population of around 5,600. It is home to Skåbu, a village located 870m above sea level. It is Norway’s highest situated rural area with a permanent settlement. The coat-of-arms depicts a Dole Gudbrandsddal horse; the area has a long tradition of horse breeding and is one of the main centres in Norway.

    Kvam

    Kvam is probably most famous for the battles that took place here during World War II. During the military campaign in Norway in 1940, Kvam was the scene of a battle between German and British forces. During the battle, the original Kvam Church (from 1776) was destroyed, along with 70 houses. There is a whole Wiki page to the battles, which you will find here. 

    By Kvam Church is the Peace Park, which is a memorial to the locals killed during World War II. There are also memorials on Stølane (Kvamsfjellet) where Russian soldiers were shot by Germans, and on Hillingen where three Norwegian soldiers lost their lives in a battle against German troops.

    Kvam has a British military cemetery. There is also a museum about World War II, the Gudbrandsdal War Memorial Collection, in town.

    Remember the battle at Otta in 1612 between Norwegian peasants and the Scots? Well, after the battle 134 Scottish prisoners were taken from Otta to Kvam. At Klomstadlåven, most were killed in a massacre. The barn building where they were kept before they were massacred, was destroyed during World War II.

    Kvam currently has a population of 762. Most of the industry has closed down in the last few years.

    Sel Municipality

    Sel’s coat-of-arms depicts a girl playing a trumpet. This represents the local legend about the Prillar-Guri, where in 1612 a Scottish army marched through on its way to Sweden. They were stopped by the farmers at the Battle of Kringen, and legend says that the farmers were made aware of the army’s arrival by a local girl with a trumpet.

    Sel is regarded as one of the more scenic and historically significant areas of the Gudbrandsdalen valley, which a large number of Norway’s heritage-listed farms being here.

    Otta

    In the higher part of the Gudbrandsdlaen valley is the town of Otta. It is the next major town after Lillehammer, and you can find out more via our travel guide. 

    Otta Travel Guide

    Sel Church

    Sel Church is a historic wooden church dating back to 1742. It is not the first church on the site, though. It is believed that the first church here was a wooden stave church built in the 13th century. However, the church has since been rebuilt twice due to the older ones deteriorating.

    Sel

    Sel is a small village with a population of 437. Sel was the main town in the region until Otta was built up around the time the Dovrebanen was completed in the area.

    In Sigrid Undset’s novel about Kristin Lavransdatter, the protagonist grows up at Jørundgard, a medieval farm. The movie was filmed on the property too. Unfortunately the property is now closed to the public.

    Dovre Municipality

    You are starting to get higher into Norway now! Dovre municipality gives its name to the railway line but also the Dovrefjell National Park. The coat-of-arms depicts a muskox. The animal is not native to Norway, but in 1932 ten were released near Dovre. Besides muskox, wild reindeer and wolverines also live in the municipality.

    People have lived at Dovre for around 6,000 years. In the Stone Age, they were primarily hunters and fishermen. Approximately 2000 years ago, the first farms were developed. Dovre is mentioned in the Norse Sagas when King Olav travelled through the area, forcing the locals to either become Christian or suffer death.

    After leaving Dovre, the path becomes more mountainous. As this is located on the Pilgrims Road, many mountain stations were established on the road to accommodate those crossing the mountains to Trondheim.

    Dovre Village

    Dovre is the administrative centre of the municipality. Close to Dovre is Budsjord Pilegrimsgården – hotell Dovre, a historic mountain farm and accommodations for travellers on the Pilgrims Road. The property is mentioned in documents from the 1400s, while the 17 protected buildings are from between the 17th and 19th centuries.

    Dombås

    Dombås is the next major town that you pass through and it is also an important meeting point between east and west. You can read more about Dombås on our travel guide. 

    Dombås Travel Guide

    Fokstugu Fjellstue

    On your left you will pass one of the historic mountain accommodations. The first accommodations on the site were constructed around 1120 by King Øystein Magnusson, wo wanted the pilgrims to have places to stay on their journey. While the farm has been rebuilt multiple times since then, pilgrims heading to Trondheim have always stayed there.

    Today the property is a sheep farm, and it does open in the summer for travellers who want to spend the night there. The farm is run by the 11th generation of the same family who have owned it.

    Hjerkinn

    Hjerkinn is in the Dovrefjell mountains and is one of the driest places in the country, with only 222 millimetres (8.7 inches) in annual precipitation. The train station is an impressive looking building. The Hjerkinn Station is Dovrebanens highest station at 1,017 metres above sea level.

    Hjerkinn is an old rest station with traditions dating back to the 13th century, when pilgrims would travel through the area.

    Trøndelag County

    You now cross into Trøndelag county. 

    Oppdal Municipality

    Oppdal is the first municipality you drive through in Trøndelag. This is a mountainous municipality, with large parts of it in the Dovrefjell. Østfjella and Trollheimen mountains. This is represented in the coat-of-arms.

    125 years ago, Oppdal was a purely agricultural community where the people produced practically everything they needed themselves. Today agriculture is still a significant industry. The sheep industry in Oppdal is the largest in the country with 45,000 sheep here.

    Kongsvoll Mountain Lodge

    Kongsvoll is another historic mountain lodge. The original inn was built in the 12th century, while the oldest parts of the lodge date back to the 18th century.

    Nearby is the Kongsvoll Alpine Garden, run by Trondheim’s university. This is the only alpine botanical garden in Scandinavia.

    Oppdal

    Oppdal is a major town and the administrative centre for the municipality. 

    Oppdal Travel Guide

    Rennebu Municipality

    Rennebu is a mostly mountainous municipality. The coat of arms shows the outline of the local church, Rennebu Church, which is one of the oldest churches in Norway based on a Y-shaped outline. The Trollheimen and Forollhogna National Parks lie in the municipality and the salmon river Orkla flows through it.

    Berkåk

    Berkåk is a small village with a population of around 959. The name comes from the word birch, referring to a prominent type of tree in the area. Every year in August, the Rennebumartnan is hosted in town. It is a sales exhibition for home improvement and handicrafts with around 20,000 visitors.

    Mitre Gauldal

    Mitre Gauldal is primarily an agricultural municipality. Every third person living here works in agriculture. Milk, poultry and eggs are produced here. The coat-of-arms shows a silver crossed Y figure on a green background. The crossed Y has several meanings. First, it symbolises the landscape which is based on the meeting of the two valleys here (Gauldal and Soknedal). The municipality also has a major Y-shaped road and railway junction. Lastly, the Budal Church, dating from 1745, is one of the oldest and few remaining Y-shaped churches in the country.

    Soknedal

    Soknedal is a small village located by the river Sokna.

    Støren

    Støren is the administrative centre of Mitre Gauldal municipality. It is located in the Gauldalen valley where the Gaula and Sokna rivers meet. The Dovrebanen and the Rørosbanen meet here as well.

    Melhus Municipality

    Melhus is the last municipality you pass through before Trondheim. Agriculture is important here, and the valleys are dominated by grain fields. The coat-of-arms symbolise a man called Einar Tambarskjelve, a famous chieftain and archer from Melhus in the 11th century. The entire area of Melhus was known during the Viking Age. It was the site of the first farm Rimul at which Jarl Haakon was killed by his slave, Tormod Kark. Archaeological excavations in the area have uncovered discoveries from the Viking Age. Additionally, 3,000 year old graves have been found.

    Melhus

    Melhus is the administrative centre of the municipality. Melhus is home to the Rimul farm, which is known from the Viking Age. It was the scene of the murder of Håkon Sigurdsson by his slave Tormod Kark, as described in the Saga of King Olav. The farm is still in operation today.

    Hakon had a mistress called Thora at the Rimul farm. Hakon and his slave were seeking shelter in hiding from Olav Tryggvason (founder of Trondheim) and his men, who were at the time searching for him. Thora led them to a pig sty beneath a great stone. Later, after killing the Earls son, Olav Tryggvason arrived at Rimul with a group of local farmers, now supporting him. The story continues in the Norse Sagas:

    Then Olaf held a speech out in the farm, he went up unto a great rock lying near the pig sty. Olaf spoke, and in his speech he said he would reward any man richly who could harm Hákon Earl. The Earl and Kark heard this speech. They had light where they lay. The Earl said: “Why are you so pale, yet sometimes black as dirt? It is not so that you wish to harm me?” “No,” says Kark. “We were born on the same night,” says the Earl. “Close will also our deaths be.”

    Lying in the pig sty at night, Kark killed Hakon. He brought the head to Olav, hoping to collect a reward. Unfortunately, Olav did not respect a slave murdering his own lord. Tormod Kark was himself decapitated. Both heads were put on stakes at Munkholmen for people to spit at.

    Trondheim Municipality

    You now cross into Trondheim municipality, the last municipality for the drive. 

    Trondheim

    You have made it to Trondheim, Norway’s third-largest city. You can read more about Trondheim via our travel guide below. 

    Trondheim Travel Guide

    Continue the drive

    Mo i Rana to Trondheim on the E6

    Continue your drive along the E6 up to the Arctic Circle and Mo i Rana. 

    Mo i Rana to Trondheim

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • European Highways, Karasjok, Kirkenes, Lakselv, Road-trips, Varanger

    Drive it Yourself: Lakselv to Kirkenes on the E6

    Drive it Yourself: Lakselv to Kirkenes on the E6

    The E6 is the main highway that runs through Norway. The last stretch of it is between Lakselv and Kirkenes. Here, the landscape is unlike anything else in Norway: rocky, barren coastlines separating stretches of tundra. The Sami people have called this area home for thousands of years, while Norwegians and Kvens settled from the 19th century onwards.

    The highway follows the Finnish border for a large portion, and it’s even possible to take small detours into Finland. It’s actually quicker to get between the two towns by going through Finland, but for our purposes we will take the scenic route on the E6. 

    In this article...

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    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
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    • Directions between points
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    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the region & towns
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Facilities including supermarkets, toilets, petrol, hotels, cafes, restaurants with addresses.
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    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    The drive: Lakselv to Kirkenes on the E6

    Lakselv

    This drive begins in Lakselv, the largest settlement in Porsanger Municipality, with a population of around 2,200. The village is located at the end of the Porsangerfjord and the E6 passes through the village.

    Lakselv Travel Guide

    Porsangmoen

    Porsangmoen is one of the major military camps in Northern Norway.

    The District Command for Finnmark was established at Skoganvarre (you’ll pass through it later) from the beginning of April 1945, however Skoganvarre turned out to not be suitable for a larger military camp. It was decided to move the camp to the area it is in now. Before 1945, there was very little military presence in the area.

    Porsangmoen has one of Norway’s largest shooting ranges at 207km2. It is used by all defence branches of the Norwegian military as well as for foreign departments who come to train on how to solve missions and survive in an Arctic winter environment.

    Porsangermoen is currently undergoing a major renovation including new barracks, a new sewerage treatment plant, new internal roads, and apartments for officers.

    In Norway, military service is compulsory for both men and women. They typically start at the age of 19 and do service for 12 months.

    Skoganvarre

    Skoganvarre is a small settlement (population: 54) located roughly halfway between Lakselv and Karasjok.The name is a Norwegianisation of the Northern Sami Shuvvanvarri (Whispering Mountain).

    The area has long been an important communication hub in Finnmark as a crossing point between Lakselv-Karasjok and Alta-Tana.

    In 1853, the state built a mountain lodge and then in 1870 a telegraph station. In 1924, the road connection was built.

    Karasjok

    Karasjok is the second-largest municipality in Norway in terms of size, with an area of 5,464km2. However, it has one of the lowest populations of any municipality, with the only settlement being Karasjok. The population density is 0.5 inhabitants per square kilometre (1.3/sq mi). Most of Karasjok’s population are Sami: approximately 80% of the population speak a Sami language as their first language.

    The important industries in Karasjok are reindeer husbandry and agriculture, as well as outdoor industries such as hunting and fishing.

    The coat-of-arms represent the meeting of three tribes: the Sami, Finns, and Norwegians. The symbol of fire was chosen because of its importance to the Sami people. The fire brings heat and therefore survival in the winter, but it is also a major threat, both in the tents and the large pine forests.

    Karasjok has the lowest measured temperature in Norway, -51.4C, measured in 1886. The highest temperature measured in Karasjok is 32.4C.

    Karasjok

    Karasjok is regarded as one of the main centres of Sami culture in Norway, and is an interesting little town for spending some time in. 

    Karasjok Travel Guide

    Karasjok River

    Now you will follow the Karasjohka river along the Norwegian/Finnish border. The river is 161km (100 mi) long and runs through the area of Finnmark. It is one of the most important rivers that drains the Finnmarksvidda plateau and it flows into the famous salmon fishing Tana River.

    Váljohka

    Váljohka is a small village located where the Váljohka and Karasjohka rivers meet. The village has a small church, Valjok Church, that was built in 1932. The church seats about 60 people and is known for its bright red and blue colours inside. They took inspiration from the traditional colours of the gakti (the Sami costume). The church is not visible from the E6, but it is.a short detour off the highway. It is marked on the highway as “Váljohka kpl”

    Deanu-Tana Municipality

    Deanu (Northern Sami) or Tana (Norwegian) is the next municipality you will pass through. The Sami word can be translated as ‘great river’, referring to the Tana River. The population of the municipality is around 2,800, with the population currently declining.  

    The coat-of-arms represents riverboats that have been used in the area for centuries. The three boats symbolise the three ethnic groups here: Sami, Kven and Norwegian, and the colours mimic the red and yellow of the Norwegian coat-of-arms.

    A large number of people work in retail or hospitality (29%), while 23% of the population work in healthcare and the social sector. The most important economic resources are the farmland or forest area. The world’s northernmost dairy is Tine in Tana Bru, and it employs around 30 people.

    The municipality is located along the lower river basin of the Tana River. Most of the inhabitants are Sami people. The river has represented a mainstay of the local economy. It is one of Europe’s main salmon rivers, though no large-scale commercial fishing is done. Because of the river, the municipality has one of the most spectacular gatherings in Norway. As many as 25,000 goo-sanders can accumulate along the waterway system. There are also thousands of common eider and long-tailed duck who come to the river. Bears are rarely spotted in the municipality.

    Tana Bru

    This is the main village in Deanu-Tana. Tana Bru means ‘Tana Bridge’ in English and is named after the bridge that crosses the river to the village of Skiippagurra on the other side of the river.

    Skiippagurra

    On the other side of the bridge is a small village called Skiippagurra. It has a population of around 254 residents and is a historic trading place. This is where the E6 stops following the Tana River and continues across to Kirkenes.

    Nesseby Municipality

    Nesseby is a small municipality located at the isthmus between the Varangerfjord and the Tana River at the entrance to the Varanger pensinula. The population lives in small settlements along the fjord and the Varangerhalvøya National Park is partly located in the park. The municipality is known for its interesting birdlife and also its tundra with areas of bog and marsh.

    Today the municipality is known as Unjárga-Nesseby, reflecting the Sami community who live here. Nesseby was the second municipality in Norway to get a Sami name. Most of the inhabitants are Sami and Sami is being taught as the first language in schools. In historic times, reindeer used to cross this area as part of their annual migration. This led the Sami to coming into the area. The area between Skippagurra and Varangerbotn is full of archaeological finds from different periods.

    The coat-of-arms represents a cloudberry plant.

    The municipality is the birthplace of Isak Saba, the first Sami to be elected to the Norwegian parliament.

    Varangerbotn

    Varangerbotn is a small village that is the administrative centre of Nesseby. The population is around 341.

    In Varanger you can visit the Varanger Sami Museum, a museum for the history and culture of the Sami in Varangerbotn. The museum presents the Sea Sami history, Sami prehistory, and contemporary Sami culture.

    This is where the E6 and the E75 separate. The E75 continues onto the Varanger peninsula towards Vardø, while the E6 goes to Kirkenes. The roundabout in town marks the beginning the National Tourist Road for Varanger, one of Norway’s 18 national tourist roads. If you want to do the tourist road, it is the E75 towards Vardø.

    Varangerfjord

    For the rest of the drive, you will be driving alongside the Varangerfjord. This is Norway’s easternmost fjord, and it stretches approximately 100km (62 mi), emptying into the Barents Sea. It does not have the hallmarks of a fjord carved by glaciers, so is not technically a fjord. Still, it looks pretty fjord-like!

    The mouth is about 70km (43 mi) wide, located between the town of Vardø in the northwest and the village of Grense Jakobselv in the southeast.

    Around the fjord is many Kven (Finnish immigrants) and Sami.

    Nyelv

    Nyelv is a small community with a population of 30. There are two burial mounds from the Neolithic Age located near Nyelv.

    Sør-Varanger Municipality

    Sør-Varanger is the easternmost municipality in Norway. It is located alongside the borders of both Finland and Russia. Most of the inhabitants live in Kirkenes. Until 1826, the area was jointly taxed by Norway and Russia.

    Bugøyfjord

    Bugøyfjord is a small village along the Varangerfjord. It was a predominantly Sami community until the Kven people arrived in the 1860s. It was one of the first villages to be burned to the ground by Germans during the retreat in 2004.

    In the village is a memorial marker for John Savio, a famous artist from the area. He was born in 1902 in Bugøyfjord and was the first Sami person to have his own exhibition at the National Gallery. He mainly worked with woodcuts. He never had a major artistic breakthrough during his life, but after his death has been recognized as one of the grewatest Sami artists. He is also the only Sami artist to make a name for himself before World War II. He passed away in 1938.

    There is a small museum for him in Kirkenes. The John Savio Prize is awarded every two years to an artist with a Sami background who has distinguished themselves in the art field in Norway.

    Neiden

    Neiden is a small village with a population of around 250. The village is located by the Neiden River, which is famous for its salmon fishing. A large part of the population are Skolt Sami, which is the Orthodox Sami. In town is the Skolt Sami Museum from 2017, which is trying to preserve and present Skolt Sami culture. They also have an outdoor museum with preserved buildings from an old Skolt Sami settlement. It includes St. Georges Chapel, a Russian Orthodox chapel that was built in 1565.

    The Skolt Sami are a unique Sami group. They are more closely related to the Russians compared to the Finns or Norwegians and are regarded as a minority group amongst the Sami. They have been more severely impacted by land borders and country regulations than other Sami groups and are marked by high unemployment and low literacy rates. The Skolt Sami language is considered highly endangered and was only written down in 1992.

    There is a settlement called Neiden on the Norwegian and the Finnish side. The area used to be one settlement for the Skolt Sami, but when the borders were laid out in the 1850s they were separated. When the area was divided up, Neiden was forced to split across the countries.

    Neiden also has Neiden Chapel – built in 1902 as a Norwegian ‘dragestil’ (dragon style) church to symbolise the Norwegian state sovereignty in the area. It is a Lutheran church and is well worth seeing. The Norwegian government invited Norwegian settlers to the area, building the Lutheran church to counterbalance the Orthodox chapel.

    Since 1906, Norwegians have come in large numbers because of all the mining in the area.

    Garrison Sør-Varanger

    The garrison in Sør-Varanger is a military unit based at Høybuktmoen. The departments main task is to patrol and monitor the Norwegian-Russian border. The garrison consists mainly of conscripted soldiers, and there are 400 new conscripts every six months. They mostly tell tourists when they are wandering into Russia, but another goal is to monitor Russian activity on the border.

    Kirkenes

    The end point for the road is at Kirkenes, the easternmost town in Norway. 

    Kirkenes Travel Guide
  • Finland, Northern Norway

    Things to Consider When Booking a Northern Lights Tour

    Things to Consider When Booking a Northern Lights Tour

    This winter I have been taking groups up to the Arctic to help them try and find the northern lights. While it is possible to see the northern lights in the towns, I’ve been encouraging them to book tours so they can get out of the towns and be in complete darkness.

    In this article...

    Fixed location vs. flexible tours

    I noticed a lot of companies have northern lights tours where they take you out to their camp or campground. This is great because it is an indoor place where you can sit inside and relax while waiting for the lights to come out. However, there are some disadvantages.

    If the tour is going out to the one spot, there’s no flexibility. The northern lights may not be visible from their camp due to clouds, but it may be clear another 45 minutes away from the camp. For the tours that mention their cabin or camping area, you are stuck going to that one spot.

    I always recommend tours where the bus is driving wherever the northern lights have been seen.

    northern lights

    Big bus vs. minibus

    There aren’t too many differences between going on a big bus tour versus going with a mini-buss. In most situations, both buses will fit at any spot suitable for observing the northern lights.

    The big difference comes down to people, of course. Do you want to be sharing the same observation spot with 40 other people or 16 other people? More people means more time to get on/off the bus, more people setting up tripods, and more people potentially spoiling your photos by using flash (yes, it happens).

    You are basically paying a little bit more for a little bit more exclusivity. I would always pick a minibus tour over a big bus tour.

    Should I just do a bus tour or should I do an experience along with it?

    There are northern lights tour that just drive you around looking for northern lights, while there are other experiences that combine northern lights with activities. I see advantages and disadvantages of both.

    Say you want to combine the northern lights tour with a snowmobile safari. You head out, ride the snowmobile safari for two hours but see no northern lights. It’s a shame, but at least you had fun on the snowmobile?

    However, say you go on a snowmobile and get incredible lights. You can’t stop driving to set up your tripod and take pictures; you just get to experience the lights as you drive. It’s not a bad thing, but you miss out on photo opportunities. Also, experiences tend to be shorter than bus tours (2 hours vs 6 hours, for example), so you’re much more limited in how much you can see the northern lights.

    I’d say it comes down to personal preference. For me, I’d always pick a basic northern lights tour. If I want to see the northern lights, I want that to be the main focus of the night. Save the fun activities for the daytime when you can actually see around you!

    How long should the tour be?

    Ideally you want to book a tour that will go for at least 6 hours. Most tours start at 6pm and will have you back by midnight. While the northern lights can be seen early in the evening, sometimes they like to wait until the middle of the night or even early morning. The northern lights are at their best between 10pm and 1am, so you don’t want a four-hour tour sending you home at 10pm.

    Flexible policies

    Always try to find companies that offer good northern lights policies, like “if you don’t see the northern lights, you can come the next night for free!”

    I don’t like companies that say “northern lights guarantee”. The northern lights are a natural attraction and are never guaranteed.

    Does the company I book with matter?

    Yes and no. Let’s look at Tromsø, which has an overwhelming number of companies offering northern lights tours. I always try to look for companies that are well established. I check their website, their reviews, and look at how well they promote the northern lights. For example, Guide Gunnar is famous in Tromsø for northern lights, and his website looks well established and like a safe choice. Same goes for companies like Chasing Lights, Pukka Travels, and Norwegian.travel. I also look at how quickly they are selling out and how far in advance they are selling out. I never go for the cheapest tour or the only one available at the last minute.

    Always book directly with the company and not through a third party agent.

    Have any tips?

    If you have any extra tips you want to add, share them in the comments below.

    My Northern Lights Guides

    Click here for my guide to seeing the northern lights.

    Click here for my northern lights log.

  • Ålesund, Hurtigruten, Walking Guides

    Highlights of Ålesund Self-Guided Walking Tour

    Highlights of Ålesund Self-Guided Walking Tour

    Located on the west coast of Norway, Ålesund is a town not to be missed. The town is famous for its Art Nouveau architecture and has regularly been voted Norway’s most beautiful city. But it’s beauty arose from devastation; in 1904 a fire devastated the entire city, with almost all the wooden buildings in Ålesund destroyed. Like a phoenix, Ålesund rose from the ashes and is now a lively, thriving community.

    This walking guide is designed for people visiting on the coastal ferry but is suited to everyone. The walk starts at the Hurtigruten pier and ends at the hiking path for Mt. Aksla.

    The online version is simplified; if you want something with directions, depth and recommendations of things to do, consider buying our downloadable version. 

    In this article...

    The E39 Highway

    Ålesund is located on the E39, the main highway along the west coast. You can find my guide to the E39 by clicking the link below. 

    The E39 Highway
    Ålesund Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Norway's Coastal Ferry

    Ålesund is a port of call of Norway’s coastal ferry. Find my guide for the coastal ferry by clicking the link below. 

    Norway's Coastal Ferry

    Downloadable Version of This Guide

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided walks on our online store. 

    View at the Store

    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the city
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos

    Ålesund Self-Guided Walking Tour

    This walk begins at the Hurtigruten pier. 

    Skateflukaia & Skansekaia

    These are two piers that are located between the Hurtigruten pier and the tourist office. 

    Here you’ll find a national monument commemorating the Shetland Bus, which ran between Ålesund and the Shetland islands between 1940 and 1945. During World War II Ålesund was described as ‘Little London’ because of the illegal resistance activity in town and because so many people managed to escape to England via Ålesund.

    The monument was unveiled by Crown Prince Haakon on the 8th of May 1995. 

    There is another monument here for the fire of 1904. It is a row of four columns with images of the devastation from the fire. 

    Kongens gate

    Kongens gate is where you will see some beautiful examples of the Art Nouveau architecture. Start at the higher numbers and work your way down. 

    Kongens gate 28

    This is home to the Bjørknes School. You can see a difference in architecture compared to number 25. Both were built in the same period after the fire, but number 28 is more inspired by Central European art nouveau, while number 25 is inspired by Old Norse design, and it has taken inspiration from stave church buildings in Norway that fused Norse and Christian religions.

    Kongens gate 25

    The building burnt down in 1970. The only thing that was intact after the fire was the façade facing Kongens gate. There were discussions about demolishing it, but the town planning manager convinced the owner that it could survive.

    Kongens gate 21

    Number 21 is inspired by the Norwegian dragon style, which drew its motifs from the Norwegian Viking period.

    Kongens gate 18

    Kongens gate 18 is interesting because the building is actually a copy of the building that used to stand there. The original building was very dilapidated by the 1970s, so it was torn down and rebuilt as a copy. 

    Kongens gate 10B

    Kongens gate 10B is the most unique building on the street. The shape results from the rebuilding after the fire. It broadens out as it goes back. The building is so narrow that access to the upper floors is via the neighbour’s front door. The architect Karl Norum designed the building. The stone cladding is heritage listed.

    The Thousand Steps and Lihauggata

    Despite being known as ‘The Thousand Steps’, these 53 steps lead up to Lihauggata, one of the few remaining hills in town.

    Many of the original hills have been blasted away and flattened out as Ålesund was developed.

    The only victim of the town fire lived here. Ironically enough, she was the next-door neighbour of the fire station, which was also here. She was an older lady who safely escaped the fire, but decided she must take her possessions with her, so she returned to her home.

    Kongens gate 6

    This is a good example of well-preserved Årt Nouveau where the old style is looked after.

    Avisgutten

    On Kongens gate you’ll see a statue of a paperboy. It was donated to Ålesund by the newspaper in 1998.

    St. Olavs Plass & the Rønneberg Building

    At the end of Kongens gate you’ll cross a square called St. Olavs Plass.

    Walk out of Kongens gate, cross St. Olavs square and continue towards the Rønneberg Building (Notenesgate 9). The Rønneberg building was built for the Carl E. Rønneberg and Sons company in 1907 by the waterfront and was a trading company. This area is where the most traditional Ålesund companies have been since 1812. The building is clad in local light marble.

    Most of St. Olavs Plass and the roads here are built on reclaimed land.

    Arbeideren

    Arbeideren is the former trade union building that was completed in 1906. The distinctive façade is a mix of Art Nouveau detailing and ornamentation.

    It is now one of Norway’s finest public festivity centres and it is an important part of Ålesund’s social and cultural life.  

    On the other side of the building from where you are you can see ‘Arbeiderforening’ written on the building, which refers to the trade union. 

    Ålesund Strait

    Ålesund is spread out over multiple islands. The islands are interconnected by bridges and subsea tunnels. Ålesund’s town centre is built around the narrow sound Ålesundet, between the islands Åspøya in the west and Nørvøya in the east.

    From here you get a good view of the strait that runs through Ålesund. The ‘sund’ in ‘Ålesund’ means ‘strait’. 

    Art Nouveau Centre

    This is the old Swan pharmacy, built as a chemists shop and private residence for the Øwre family. The building was later bought by the Ålesund Savings Bank and was restored externally.

    The actual chemist’s shop is still intact inside. The chemist’s shop is one of the oldest institutions in Ålesund. From as early as 1819 there was a chemist here, until it closed in 2001 and the Art Nouveau Centre moved in. The centre has exhibitions spread across three floors. They have art nouveau ads, jewellery, and several multimedia presentations. The cobblestone is from 1915 – before then it was unpaved and quite dusty and muddy. 

    The Herring Wife

    Across the street from the Art Nouveau Centre is a statue of the herring wife – commemorating the role women had here in Ålesund. They were primarily the sellers of the fish. 

    Ålesund Church

    The church was ready to be consecrated in September 1909, so it is not an old church. However, the old Ålesund Church used to stand on the same site. 

    The first Ålesund Church was built in 1854. It was 50 years old when it burned down. The architectural competition jury received 63 proposals in response to its invitation to tender a new church.

    The church is heavily inspired by medieval times and therefore had small windows, making it very dark. The architect combined Norwegian church architecture with Jugendstil.

    Nedre Strandgate, Prestbrygge and Storneskaia

    This area is where historically the klippfisk (clipfish in English) was loaded onto boats. 

    Ålesund is one of the biggest export ports in Norway for klippfisk. This is without a doubt the most important basis for Ålesund’s growth as a trading town.

    Ålesund Town Hall

    Ålesund Town Hall is one of the classic 1970s style office buildings in Norway. It has been voted the second-ugliest building in Norway, and rightly so!

    Kaiser Wilhelms Gate

    The area here is called Kipervika and is named after the barrel makers who lived here. In the 1950s the sea came up to where the benches are. 

    The street is named after Kaiser Wilhelm. He often holidayed in the Norwegian fjords on his yacht Hohenzollern and was a great admirer of the west country landscape on the Sunnmøre Fjords. When he heard about the fire in Ålesund he ordered three fully loaded ships carrying food, medicine, building materials and blankets to Ålesund. Help also came from other parts of the world, but the assistance from Kaiser Wilhelm II was magnificent and he stole the show and overshadowed the other providers of assistance.

    Ålesund's Old Prison

    On the corner of Rådhusgata you’ll see the old prison. The building dates to 1864; during the fire in innards were destroyed but the stone walls survived. The state lion is above the entrance. It was formerly the district Court and prison. 14 prisoners were inside at the time of the fire. When the gaoler realised the prison as going to catch fire, he left them go but told them to come back the next day. Today it’s a prison admin building.

    Ålesund Town Park

    The park was designed in 1885 with the purpose of being for the pleasure and recreation of the townsfolk, who were beginning to be inconvenienced by the noise of wagons and other racket. The pattern was the English park landscape, with footpaths winding around hillocks and between the verdant trees and flower beds. The park got a major facelift in 2010.

    The vegetation is found in other parts of the country. A surprise is the Chilean tree, the monkey-puzzle tree. It was brought to the town from South America by sailors from Ålesund at the beginning of the 1900s.

    Thanks for coming!

    I hope you enjoyed this walk around Ålesund. Be sure to go and have the best fish and chips in town close to the pier before leaving! You can find more information about Ålesund via our travel guide page. 

    Ålesund Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Norway's Coastal Ferry

    Ålesund is a port of call of Norway’s coastal ferry. Find my guide for the coastal ferry by clicking the link below. 

    Norway's Coastal Ferry
  • Stockholm, Sweden

    Riddarholmen Church: Stockholm’s Oldest Building

    Riddarholmen Church: Stockholm’s Oldest Building

    Stockholm is growing on me. It is, after all, probably the best-preserved of the Scandinavian capitals. It avoided bombardments and devastating fires, unlike Copenhagen, and it is significantly older than Oslo. Also, Sweden was neutral during World War II, protecting it from bombing or sabotage attacks. When I first visited Stockholm I found it too crowded, and while that is still true every visit, I find new appreciations for the city now. One of those is Riddarholmen Church, arguably my favourite historic building in the city.

    Located on the island of Riddarholmen, which is just across a small bridge from Gamla Stan, this church covers almost 1,000 years of history from Stockholm’s founding in 1252 right through to the present day. Centuries old traditions survive to the present day and the conversion of the church into a historic site is fantastic. It is one of the best-presented historic churches I’ve been in, with interesting exhibitions, information boards everywhere, and easy to follow maps. Riddarholmen Church is also the oldest preserved building with the oldest brick walls above ground, as well as being Stockholm’s only preserved monastery church.

    Here is an overview of the historic importance of Riddarholmen Church as well as some highlights as to what you can see there.

    In this article...

    Stockholm Travel Guide
    Sweden Travel Guide

    Historic Context

    The Greyfriars Monastery

    The history of the church begins with the Greyfriars Monastery. Soon after entering the church, you will see a large information sign about them, complete with relics found during restorations as well as images of what the church likely looked like during the time of the Greyfriars.

    Riddarholmen Church is part of the former medieval Greyfriars Monastery, making it one of the oldest buildings in Stockholm as the monastery was established here in the late 13th century. It is not known when the church was completed, but historians believe it was around the early 14th century. The church was much smaller, of course. The floorplan had two naves – common for monastic churches of the mendicant orders of Scandinavia and Northern Germany during the Middle Ages. There was also no tower.

    Side note – the Greyfriars is a Scandinavian term for the Franciscans. The Franciscan priory was established in Italy in the early 13th century by Francis of Assisi and came to Sweden in the 1220s. The ‘Greyfriars’ term came because of their grey clothing.

    When Riddarholmen Church was completed, it was made almost entirely out of brick. This was unusual in Sweden. It has been thought that the ‘lavishness’ of the church is because Magnus Ladulås wanted to be buried there. He was the Swedish King in the late 13th century. He was the son of Birger Jarl, who founded Stockholm in 1252, and wasn’t the heir – his older brother Valdemar was. After Birger’s death, the two brothers came into conflict and, with the help of the Danes, Magnus ousted his brother and became King. There is nothing particularly notable or famous about his reign; he likely gave funding to the church and is why he is buried there. Or is he? More on that later.

    What the church probably looked like during the monastery time

    While the monks led a very simple life, they were also very cultured. The first book printed in Sweden was produced by the Greyfriars in 1483.

    Not much remains of the monastery today; some of the walled-up openings towards the abbey garden can be seen in the form of niches with pointed arches in the southern wall. Medieval painting has also been found in the vaults.

    The Reformation

    Of course, the Reformation meant huge changes for the monastery. The monastery was closed and the church became Lutheran. Around this time, its role shifted and it became known as the Royal burial church of the Swedish monarchs and for the Seraphim Order. The church became associated with modern nobility in Sweden.

    Riddarholmen Church was also expanded after the Reformation, with the royal tombs being added and the chancel being designed in the Dutch Renaissance style. The tower was added after the Reformation, too.

    1835 Fire

    In 1835, Riddarholmen Church had its largest and most impactful fire. The fire was started by a lightning strike on the 28th of July 1835 and lasted for three days. During this time, the tower spire collapsed as the entire upper part of the church burned. Thankfully, they were able to prevent the fire from entering the interior of the church.

    Restoration & Current Appearance

    The rebuilding of the church took three years. The most impactful part of the reconstruction was the cast iron spire, designed in the Neo-Gothic style and now an icon of the Stockholm skyline.

    The last addition to the church was in 1860, when the Bernadotte tomb choir was built.

    During that time, Riddarholmen Church became a three-nave church built in red brick. The church was originally built in the Gothic style, but the tombs are in various styles, including Rococo and Renaissance. It bears some similarities to Roskilde Cathedral in Denmark in that regard.

    What to see Inside the Church

    What's With all the Coats of Arms?

    One of the most unique parts of the church are all the coats of arms. It is probably the first thing you’ll recognise when you visit the church. Honestly, when I first visited the church I thought they were the coats of arms of the royal family, but I was very wrong.

    The coats of arms are for the knights of the Royal Order of the Seraphim. This is a Swedish royal order of chivalry created by King Frederick I on the 23rd of February 1743. Originally, the knights were supposed to supervise with the hospitals and mental asylums in Sweden, in particular the Seraphim hospital (the major hospital in Stockholm until it closed in 1980). This requirement eventually died out and today it is more a symbolic order.

    On the death of one of the knights, their coat of arms is put up and the two dates on the plaque indicate when they received the Order and on the day of their death. When they die, the bells of Riddarholmen Church ring the special Serephim chimes.

    The Royal Church & Tombs

    Riddarholmen Church is today the final resting place of most Swedish monarchs. Every monarch from Gustavus Adolphus (died 1632) to Gustaf V (died 195) are entombed here. The earlier monarchs Magnus (died 129) and Charles VIII are also buried here. There is only one exception: Queen Christina is buried within St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome. The Vasa dynasty were also not buried here. Queen Christina is fascinating; she refused to become Lutheran so gave up her title! The Vasa family was also not buried here.

    In total, 15 monarchs are buried at the church and are divided into three tombs: The Gustavian, the Karolinska, and the Bernadotte. All three are clearly marked with information boards and numbered maps showing who is buried where.

    The Gustavian burial chancel was built for King Gustav II Adolf (1594-1632). Gustav designed it himself before his death, but it was constructed after his death.

    The Medieval Tombs

    In the chancel (from the 13th century) are two sarcophagus-like tomb monuments for Magnus Ladulås as well as King Karl Knuttson, who died in 1470. The tombstones were made in the 1570s and are designed as effigies for the two kings. They were originally painted in bright colours but only traces of that remain today.

    The northern burial was thought to be Magnus, but in 2011 an analysis of the skeletons showed that it was far too young to be him. So, the mystery of Magnus’ grave remains.

    Side note – the gilding of the ribs in the chancel has no counterpart in Sweden and was probably paid for by a King.

    Royal Tombs

    There are three chapels where the royal family are buried. The first, and oldest one, is the Gustavian chapel. The Gustavian Chapel was built for King Gustav II Adolf (1594-1632). He designed it himself before his death, but construction only took place after he died. His sarcophagus is made of dark marble from Italy. There are also another 20 royals buried here. Those who died in the 17th century are in pewter coffins, which the others are mostly in oak coffins.

    The Karolinska chapel is the distinctive grey sandstone building. The sandstone comes from Gotland. In the black marble sarcophagus is Charles XII (1682-1718). Queen Ulrika Eleonora (1688-1741) and her husband King Fredrik I (1676-1751) rest in green charcoal marble sarcophagi. In the crypt are several kings with their respective consorts.

    The Bernadotte chapel is the last addition to the church. Here you can see King Karl XIV Johan’s sarcophagus. It is made of red garberg granite. Queen Desideria’s (1777-1860) sarcophagus is made of green charcoal marble and is in front of Karl Johan. In 2021 the walls were resealed, and during excavations archaeologists found 50 skeletons and a bridal crown from the 14th – 16th centuries.

    Non-Royal Chapels

    There are a large number of consorts, princes and princesses buried in the church.

    Riddarholmen Church contains five non-royal chapels, which were erected during the 17th century by various noble families. I won’t go through all of them, just some of the more interesting ones. I’ve always found the relationship between the Swedish monarchy and the Swedish noble families very interesting. Compared to the other Scandinavian countries (Denmark), the Swedish noble families have always had much more influence on the governing of the country, and I think this is well represented by the fact they are buried alongside the Swedish royals with barely any separation between graves.

    The Torstenson burial chapel was built in 1651 for field lord Lennart Torstenson. He was an important part of the Swedish military and became governor of Vastergotland. He is considered to be one of the most successful generals of his time, as well as one of Sweden’s greatest of all time.

    The Lewenhaupt chapel was built in 1654 for Gustaf Adolf Lewenhaupt and Carl Mauritz Lewenhaupt. They are beautiful wrought iron grilles. Both men were Swedish counts and field marshals and were also brothers. Many of their descendants are buried here too.

    Other Graves & Tombstones

    There are some other unique tombs in the church. In the middle of the choir is the Färlastenen from the 14th century. It was intended for a member of the medieval Farla family. According to legend, the stone belongs to the knight Karl Nilsson. The tombstone was found during a restoration in the early 20th century and there’s nothing that proves that Karl was a knight or belonged to the Farla family.

    North of the grave that was thought to be Magnus Ladulås are the remains of marshal Torgils Knutsson. After his execution in 1306, he was buried at the execution site but his body was later moved to Riddarholmen. His tomb was destroyed in the 17th century during the construction of the Karolinska tomb and it was lost for more than two centuries. It was found in the 1920s during a restoration in three parts. Torgils was a knight, Swedish councillor and marshal.

    Lastly, you will see the grave of Christ inside the church. This is one of the churches oldest objects: a wooden sculpture of Christ dating from around 1400. During the Middle Ages, it was used in the Passion Play at easter. This play told stories about the Bible; for the sculpture, it was wrapped up, laid in a chest, and the lid was closed. Two guards stood beside it, just like in the Bible, and in the morning, when the congregation came to church, the sculpture was removed. So, when the grave was opened, it was empty.

    The Passion Play was forbidden after the Reformation and most of those sculptures disappeared in Sweden. This one was moved to the Royal Armoury and over time lost its feet, arms, and half of its head. It also faded and became grimy. It was eventually left in the church and is believed to have been damaged by the 1835 fire. Today, only four remain and the one at Riddarholmen is the oldest.

    Visiting Riddarholmen Today

    Today the church is only used for burial and commemorative purposes.

    The church is open as an attraction during summer. You can view the opening hours by clicking here.

    It is possible to buy a ticket when visiting the Swedish Royal Palace; they are sold as a combo ticket. It is possible to pre-order tickets online.

    Be sure to check the annual programme of concerts so you can attend one.

    All of the chapels have information signs out the front in Swedish and English, making it easy to follow along and get a small insight into the importance of each person. For the royal burial vaults, there are numbered maps indicating who is buried where.

    The ground is uneven because of all the tombstones; these were placed inside the church by those who could afford to pay for the space.

    Thanks for Reading!

    I hope you found this information about Riddarholmen Church useful, as well as the fascinating history behind the church!

    Have you visited the church or have any questions? Let me know in the comments.

    Stockholm Travel Guide
    Sweden Travel Guide
  • Hurtigruten, Kirkenes, Museums, World War II

    Andersgrotta, the Bomb Shelter Beneath Kirkenes

    Andersgrotta, the Bomb Shelter Beneath Kirkenes

    Kirkenes, a small town located about 10km (6 mi) from the Russian border, is a fascinating place to visit. It is the turning point of Norway’s Coastal Ferry (Hurtigruten & Havila), so it is easily accessible for visitors to Norway. The town itself is very sleepy today, so it’s hard to imagine that during World War II it was one of the most important places for the Nazis in their fight against the Soviets. In fact, Kirkenes is the most bombed place in Europe after Malta.

    There are two attractions in town that cover World War II history. The first is the Grenseland Museum, located a little ways out of town and covering more the history of border relations between Norway, Finland and Russia, and the second is the Andersgrotta bunker, a complex system of tunnels beneath the town itself. Andersgrotta is offered as an excursion on the Coastal Ferry but it is also possible to visit it yourself while visiting the town.

    Here’s an overview of why Andersgrotta is significant as well as what you can see on your visit.

    In this article...

    Norway's Coastal Ferry

    Kirkenes is a port of call of Norway’s coastal ferry. Find my guide for the coastal ferry by clicking the link below. 

    Norway's Coastal Ferry
    Kirkenes Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Be sure to check out our Kirkenes travel guide! Here you can find all our recommendations of things to do and see, including our self-guided road-trips. 

    Kirkenes During World War II

    After Norway was occupied by Nazis, Kirkenes became a strategic town due to its proximity to the Soviet Union. Its importance increased when Operation Barbarossa put Kirkenes right on the front lines. Additionally, Murmansk is an ice-free harbour and one of the only ones with access to the ocean, and the Allies were sending ships there to keep the Russians well-stocked to push the Nazis out of St. Petersburg and Russia. The Nazis used Kirkenes as a base to bomb these ships but also try and invade the Soviet Union. Because of these attacks, Kirkenes was bombed more than 300 times, while air raid alarms were held more than 1000 times.

    History of Kirkenes

    Andersgrotta Bunker

    This is the largest bomb shelter in Kirkenes. It was built in 1941 to protect the civilians of Kirkenes from the repeated bombings of the war. Because of the air quality, people couldn’t stay all night but would come down every time there was an alarm. Babies were born here, livestock was kept here, and people just did everything they could to survive. In total, the shelter had enough room for 2500 people. Somehow they survived down there – though it still remains a bit of a mystery.

    After the war, Kirkenes was left in ruins. These bunkers became places where people could live while waiting for their home to be built. This took a while as there aren’t many trees in Northern Norway, so much of the timber had to be imported from the south. Many of the civilians also used the caves out at the mines, approximately 10km from town. Andersgrotta was never used for mining; it is purposely built as a bomb shelter.

    Visiting Andersgrotta

    To get inside, you go down a staircase under the Norwegian flag. It is very cold inside – around 0C – and the air feels musty and damp. You hear dripping water everywhere. There is electrical lighting in there today, but during the war there was no electricity, plumbing, or ventilation systems. During the Cold War all of these were added in. You see one of the air vents when you go to the Russian monument.

    Andersgrotta

    First your guide will show you a selection of images of Kirkenes from before and after the war, explaining the destruction that took place here.

    Next you will sit down and watch a 10 minute documentary that explains what happens in Kirkenes during the war. It includes fictional footage (acting of life in Kirkenes) but also documentary footage of the Nazis, the bombing, and the Soviet Union liberating Kirkenes.

    After the movie you have a chance to walk around. The complex consists of several corridors which lead to a number of exits.

    Outside Attractions

    Andersgrotta

    Guided tours include a visit to the Russian monument that sits on top of Andersgrotta. It may seem a bit surreal to have a monument to a Russian soldier in Kirkenes, but the town was liberated by the Soviets and has maintained a close, positive relationship with the Russians ever since.

    The monument is from 1951 and shows a Red Army soldier standing on a plinth. Originally the soldier was trampling a German eagle under his foot, as a symbol of the Soviet Union’s victory over Nazi Germany, but the political climate changed and the eagle was replaced with a rock shortly before the statue was unveiled.

    Book Your Tour of Andersgrotta

    Andersgrotta is managed by Snowhotel Kirkenes. Andersgrotta is open to the public daily at 12:30pm – you can buy tickets at the entrance or on the Snowhotel website. Otherwise, other times are only available via private tour. These are booked through Snowhotel Kirkenes: https://www.snowhotelkirkenes.com/andersgrotta

    Here is the Hurtigruten excursion to Andersgrotta: https://www.hurtigruten.com.au/excursions/norway/7a-the-norwegian-border/

    Here is the Havila excursion to Andersgrotta: https://www.havilavoyages.com/excursions/the-russian-border

    It is easy to walk here. The entrance is approximately 250 metres from the town centre, though it is not marked with signs.

    Norway's Coastal Ferry

    Kirkenes is a port of call of Norway’s coastal ferry. Find my guide for the coastal ferry by clicking the link below. 

    Norway's Coastal Ferry
    Kirkenes Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Be sure to check out our Kirkenes travel guide! Here you can find all our recommendations of things to do and see, including our self-guided road-trips.