Emma

Hey! My name is Emma. I'm from Australia but have lived in Bergen, Norway, for the last eight years. I work as a local guide and tour leader for all over Northern Europe. The Hidden North is an online travel guide I have made to help you plan your own visit here.

  • Finland, Museums, Turku

    Turku Castle: Finland’s Most Important Historic Site

    Turku Castle: Finland’s Most Important Historic Site

    Turku, Finland’s historic capital, is located on the west coast towards Sweden. Located on an island out into the bay is Turku Castle, a medieval castle that was founded in the 13th century as a bastion and administrative centre for Finland during the union with Sweden. It’s easy to visit Turku Castle from Helsinki for the day, or make it part of your visit to Turku.

    I visited Turku Castle on a cold winter day in February 2022 and found it fascinating. Helsinki is such a modern city (by comparison), so I didn’t think there were many of these historic places to be seen in Finland. Turku certainly proved me wrong, and this Castle is an excellent example of Nordic medieval castles.

    Here’s my guide to Turku Castle, including its historic importance and the exhibitions inside.

    Turku Travel Guide
    Finland Travel Guide

    In this article...

    History of Turku Castle

    Transformation to Living Quarters

    Eventually Turku Castle’s position shifted as various Duke’s were given control over the Castle. It was decided to expand the castle into more of a living quarters. The first major renovation took place in the 14th century. A kitchen and bakery were also added to the Castle. By the end of the century, Turku Castle was one of the largest and most important castles in the Nordic countries.

    In the 15th century one of the most remembered residents came and left his touch on the Cathedral. During the reign of Sten Sture the Elder, the castle underwent major changed during the most extensive construction works of the Middle Ages in Finland. Most importantly, the Catholic Church, known today as Sture Church, was built in the Castle. The Great Castle Hall was also expanded to two naves.

    The Vasas & the Renaissance Palace

    The next important residents were the Vasa. When Gustav Vasa became King of Sweden in the 16th century, he had Turku Castle expanded to include the bailey. He had visited the Castle and found it outdated and unpleasant. The Castle was also given a more Renaissance feel following German, Spanish and Polish examples. The Renaissance part of the Castle is known for being unique in Finnish conditions and was the only example of Renaissance-style court life in Finland. Since then, the Castle has never been added or extended, just repaired.

    Gustav Vasa’s younger son, Johan, moved into the Castle to serve as Duke of Finland. He had parties in the Castle as well as tournaments. His wife, Catherine, brought jewels, gold, velvet, curtains, tapestries, nightwear, and forks to the Castle, all of which had not really been seen in Finland before. Around 600 people worked at the Castle under Johan.

    Johan’s older brother, Erik, was King of Sweden and the two brothers did not get along. At the time, Sweden was at war with Poland, and Catherine was a Polish princess. Erik’s forces besieged Turku Castle for three months before Johan and Catherine were imprisoned.

    Eventually Johan became King of Sweden after a coup and Erik was kept prisoner at Turku Castle. After Johan died, his son Sigismund became the King of Sweden. From Catherine’s side, he had already been declared the King of Poland. This caused conflict between him and the Swedish Nobles, but the Finnish Nobles supported Sigismund from his fathers time as Duke. Turku Castle was besieged two more times, with the second time in 1599 ending with the massacre at the town hall of Turku on the 10th of November 1599.

    17th Century Decline

    The castle was used throughout the 17th century, but it was considered to be in bad condition by this time. There were a number of sieges and accidents at the castle throughout the 17th century. For example, in 1614, when King Gustav II Adolf visited, a huge fire destroyed the wooden structure of the main castle almost completely. After this, the main castle was abandoned and partly used as a store, while the residents moved into the bailey.

    When governor general Pietari Brahe lived here, the rooms were furnished for use of the official scribes and the fort had an armoury, shoemakers workshop, sauna, and brewery. The Castle was still important for social life where people dressed up, celebrated, and ate the European way.

    Conversion to a Prison & Russian Rule

    From the late 18th century to the late 19th century, part of the Castle was converted into a prison. Sometimes there were almost 20 prisoners to the one cell. In the winter, the air was musty and diseases were common.

    When the Finnish War began in 1808 the Castle was taken over by the Russian navy and handed back to the Finnish authorities a couple decades later, when the country became an autonomous state within the Russian empire. The Castle was then converted to a Russian barracks.

    Museum Conversion and Major Restoration

    Towards the end of the 19th century, interest in the Castle began to be renewed and the Turku Historical Museum was founded in the bailey in 1881.

    In the 1920s and 1930s, the first major restoration work began. During the work, wall paintings from the 1530s were found in the room above the gate.

    The renovation of the castle began before World War II but was interrupted by Finland’s two wars with the Soviet Union, was completed in 1987. The castle was damaged in aerial bombardments, especially in the summer of 1941 when firebombs hit the castle.

    The restored castle was handed over on 12 October 1998 to the city of Turku. The building is today owned by the Finnish state and is entrusted to the use of the city of Turku. The castle functions as a historic museum.

    Castle Construction

    Turku Castle has a medieval keep and Renaissance bailey. The keep is a square fort with two square gateway towers, and the thickness of the walls is around 5 metres (16 feet). The castle used to be surrounded by a moat.

    You can see the video below that outlines all the different stages of growth.

    https://vimeo.com/108994016

    Visiting the Castle

    The Main Castle

    The Main Castle is where you will visit first. You wander through the rooms, following a marked trail, and can read information signs that give an overview of the both the Castle’s history as well as Finland and Sweden’s history.

    There are two separate sections of the Castle when you enter: the medieval castle and the renaissance castle. They are clearly marked with arrows. In each room, there is a number on the wall and a matching description, so you never feel lost.

    There are lots of stairs and awkward entranceways, but this adds to the authenticity of the castle.

    Soon after entering the medieval castle you will see some of the 16th century artwork that was uncovered under the whitewashed walls. There’s nothing drawing attention to it, but you can’t miss it.

    Each room has an information sign in Swedish, Finnish and English with historic drawings of the castle and fun little stories. Take a look at the one above – Jordan the prisoner with multiple wives!

    The walkway up to the Sture Church

    Sture Church

    Sture Church

    The Nuns Chapel

    The most impressive rooms are the Sture Church and the Nuns Chapel, which hold the collection of medieval religious statues, something not seen elsewhere in Finland.

    The Nuns Chapel was built in the 1480s as a dining room for the Lord of the Castle, but it was given to Duchess Catherine to be her devotional chamber after she moved to Turku. After the Reformation, Catholic churches were referred to as monastic churches. The name of the Nuns Chapel therefore doesn’t reference actual numbers, but Catherine herself. In the 17th century it was used for storing flour and in the 18th century it was an armoury.

    In the Guest Room you can see one. of the first windows of Turku Castle. Before then, pig skin would be used instead of glass! Interestingly, the guest room was left empty and furniture was only brought in when needed.

    The King’s State Room was Finland’s most important secular room from the early 14th century. Nearly all of Sweden’s medieval Kings stayed in this room.

    The Kings and Queens Halls date from the 1550s, when the medieval fortification was turned into a Renaissance palace by Duke Johan and Catherine.

    The Bailey

    The exhibitions in the bailey focus on everyday life in the castle, its festivities, court and staff. I found this part a little less interesting as it feels very much like what you’d find in any other European castle. However, this will definitely be of interest to most people!

    Practical Information

    Opening Hours & Prices

    You can find up-to-date information about pricing on the museum website here.

    In winter, the museum is open Tuesday – Sunday from 10am to 6pm, while in summer it is open every day from 10am to 6pm.

    Getting There

    The castle is located out of Turku town centre, making it a little difficult to walk there. Thankfully, taking the bus is fairly easy.

    From Market Square, take bus line 1 from Platform D1 towards the harbour (satama in Finnish). The bus stop is in front of the castle.

    If you are driving, parking is available.

    Guided Tours

    Guided tours are only available in Finnish, though it is possible to book a private tour in English.

    Tell Us What You Think!

    Have you been to Turku Castle? Let us know in the comments.

    Turku Travel Guide
    Finland Travel Guide
  • Central Norway, Dombås, European Highways, Gudbrandsdalen, Hamar, Lillehammer, Oppdal, Oslo, Otta, Ringebu, Road-trips, Trondheim

    Drive it Yourself: Oslo to Trondheim on the E6

    Drive it Yourself: Oslo to Trondheim on the E6

    The E6 is the longest road that runs through Norway. Starting in Svinesund, on the Swedish border, it goes all the way to Kirkenes on the Russian border, stretching 2,576km.

    The busiest stretch of road, and the part that we cover here, is the stretch between Oslo and Trondheim. The E6 also follows the old Pilgrims Road that went from Hallvard Cathedral in Oslo to Nidaros Cathedral in Trondheim, and you will see many historic places associated with the old pilgrim’s road.

    This guide will start at the part of the E6 shortly after Oslo Airport, when you cross into Eidsvoll County.

    In this article...

    Downloadable Version of This Guide

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

    View at the Store

    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Information about facilities along the way

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the region & towns
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Facilities including supermarkets, toilets, petrol, hotels, cafes, restaurants with addresses.

    Oslo to Trondheim on the E6

    Oslo

    This drive begins just north of Oslo’s Gardermoen Airport, but you can learn more about Oslo via the travel guide below. 

    Oslo Travel Guide

    Eidsvoll Municipality

    The first municipality that you cross through after Oslo is Eidsvoll.

    The part ‘eid’ means “a road passing around a waterfall”, while ‘voll’ means “meadow” or “field”. The name therefore refers to the fact that people from the districts around the lake Mjøsa (you will see it later) were sailing down the river Vorma and people from Romerike were sailing up the river. They had to enter this area by passing the Sundfossen Waterfall. Because of this, the site has been an important meeting place long before the introduction of Christianity. The coat-of-arms depict a scale as a symbol of justice, representing the old court.

     

    Eidsvoll is mentioned in the Old Norse Sagas back to the 11th century. The sagas were a court and assembly for the eastern part of Norway mostly due to the lake and the river that served as a transport road. Historically the main industry was agriculture, despite the fact that there is a lot of clay in the soil.

    The town of Eidsvold in Queensland, Australia, and Eidsvold Township in Minnesota use the old spelling of the municipality. The current ‘Eidsvoll’ was adopted in Norway in 1918.

    Small Detour: Eidsvoll Town

    Eidsvoll is a historically important place in Norway. You must leave the E6 and take a small detour, but it is worth it. Eidsvoll Church is an old church from 1200 and is built in the Romanesque style. The church is located on the old Pilgrims Road and is one of the important stops along the way.

    Eidsvoll Verk (how it is written on Google Maps) refers to the smelt iron ore that King Christian IV of Denmark opened in 1624. He was relying on the excellent water power from the Andelva River. The smeltery was taken over by Kongsberg Silver Mines. Carsten Anker bought the works in 1794 and restored it, setting up the production of stoves and similar iron goods. He also took residence in Eidsvoll, building a manor house now known as Eidsvollsbygningen. The Eidsvoll Verk has closed, but the name still remains. The old mill can be seen in the town.

    In 1854, Eidsvoll became the end point for the first railroad line in Norway from Oslo.

    This is the site where the constitutional assembly met to draft and sign the Constitution of Norway on the 17th of May 1814. The building is considered to be one of Norway’s most important national monuments and the cradle of modern Norway. Today it is a museum. The home was lived in by Carsten Anker, owner of the iron works, lived here during the time when it was used to sign the constitution. He went bankrupt in 1822 and the ownership of the estate was transferred to British creditors. A group of private citizens led by Henrik Wergeland organised a fundraiser that allowed them to buy the building with the pavilion and surrounding garden. When the purchase was finalised, the group donated the property to the Norwegian estate.

    I will visit the building eventually and write a more detailed overview of it.

    Minnesund

    Minnesund is a small village on the southern tip of Lake Mjøsa at the place where the lake flows into the Vorma River. Minnesund is an old ferry pier and has always been important for travel and communications. 

    Lake Mjøsa

    Lake Mjøsa is the largest lake in Norway and the 35th largest in Europe. It is also Norway’s and Europe’s fourth-deepest lake with the greatest depth being 453 metres. Lake Mjøsa provides drinking water for up to 100,000 people.

    The area around the lake is one of the most fertile agricultural districts in Norway.

    The meaning of the word ‘Mjøsa’ is unknown.

    In summer the surface temperature averages between 13 and 16 degrees and up to 20 degrees deep in the Furnesfjorden. Parts of the lake freeze over in December. In January, almost all the lake is covered with ice and in particularly cold winters the entire lake can be covered with ice in February.

    Mjøsa is home to Norway’s largest inland fishery and is also one of the country’s most species-rich lakes. 21 fish species have been found in the lake, including perch, trout, pike and other species.

    The lake has also been an important transport and traffic artery, even when frozen. The lake is commonly mentioned in the Viking Sagas and the transport of goods on the lake was probably extensive and well organized in the Viking Age and Hamar’s heyday in the High Middle Ages. Salt, grain, iron, coffee, sugar and tobacco went north, while alcohol, glass, timber, ore, cheese, butter and grain went south. Steamships were launched on the lake in 1840 for better transport.

    Innlandet County

    You will now be driving through Innlandet County. 

    Stange Municipality

    Stange is the first municipality you will pass through in Innlandet county. There have been settlements here since well before the Viking Age. Because of the old transport route went along here, there has been trade and hospitality here since time immoral. Stange Church, with is in Stange village, is first mentioned in 1225 in Håkon Håkonssons saga. The current building is from 1250.

    Stange is one of the largest agricultural municipalities in Innlandet. Norway’s oldest agricultural school, Jønsberg High School, is located here. The high school teaches in nature management, agriculture, animal husbandry, forestry, and biology, as well as organic farming, mathematics and chemistry. The school was established in 1847. You will pass the school on your right shortly before going into Hamar.

    Espa

    Espa is a small village that saw fighting during World War II, when battles were fought between Norwegians and Germans to prevent the Germans from following the King as he fled Oslo. The Espa Servicesenter has become kind of (?) famous because it has sold a large number of buns in recent years, earning the nickname ‘bolle land’ . You can visit their website here: https://www.bolleland.no/

    Hamar Municipality

    Hamar municipality is named after the main town in the area – Hamar. We’ll cover Hamar next, but first lets talk about the coat-of-arms for the municipality. The coat-of-arms depict a Black Grouse sitting on top of a pine tree. The first version of this coat-of-arms was depicted in 1553

    Hamar

    Hamar is the first major town on the E6. It is also one of the major historic towns in Norway and was one of the powerful centres of Norway during the Viking and medieval times. 

    You can read our separate guide to Hamar below. 

    Hamar Travel Guide

    Ringsaker Municipality

    Ringsaker Municipality gets its name from the old Ringsaker Church. The coat-of-arms shows a moose; the image is taken from a pre-historic cave painting that has been found in the municipality. The area is mentioned in King Harald Hårfagres Saga as well as St. Olavs Saga when St. Olav was christening the area.

    Ringsaker is primarily an agricultural and lumbering region. 

    Brumunddal

    The town of Brumunddal (population 11,019) grew as a settlement with the establishment of the Dovre train line in 1894. The major industry in the town is agriculture and forestry. Close to Brumunddal is the Mjøsa Tower (Mjøstårnet), the world’s tallest wooden building. It is 18 floors and 85.4 metres high. 

    Rudshøgda

    Rudshøgda is best known as the childhood home of author, poet, playwright, songwriter and musician Alf Prøysen. Prøysenhuset is a cultural centre and museum honoring his memory. He wrote the very popular Mrs Pepperpot series of childrens books.

    Moelv

    The town of Moelv (population 4,459) was built around various mills that were utilising the power of the Moelva River. The largest industrial company here is Moelven Industrier, which is one of Scandinavia’s leading suppliers of building products.

    Rock carvings have been found in Moelv that can be traced back tot he Stone Age and are generally regarded as the best-preserved rock carvings in Norway. Additionally, the Ringsaker Church is located here. It was completed in the middle of the 12th century and is dedicated to St. Olav. 

    North of Moelv is Tovsteinsringen (The twelve-stone ring). This is an ancient stone circle that is often compared to Stonehenge (this one is much, much smaller). It is believed to have been the site of a burial ritual, likely for a wealthy, high-ranking person.

    Lillehammer Municipality

    Lillehammer Municipality is named after the major town of Lillehammer, your next detour. The name Lillehammer means “Little Hammer” and was developed as a new trading town on the Lake Mjøsa after Hamar, hence the name. The coat-of-arms depict a birkebeiner, a 12th-century civil war fighter, carrying a shield, who is skiing down a silver/white mountainside under a blue sky. The birkebieners carried the future King Haakon from Lillehammer to Rena on skis during the Civil War.

    There have been settlements here since the Iron Age and the market here was mentioned in Håkon Håkonssons saga in 1390. It was also believed to have a site for the Ting assembly. However, despite this history, Lillehammer was registered as a trading down in 1827.

    Lillehammer

    Lillehammer is the next major stop on the E6. There is so much to say about Lillehammer, so check out our separate travel guide page. 

    Lillehammer Travel Guide

    Øyer Municipality

    Øyer Municipality is the first municipality within the Gudbrandsdalen region. The coat-of-arms show a silver-coloured wooden ring on a green background. This is a type of ring that was historically made of wood and was used to fasten a tree trunk to a rope to haul it over the land. Similar devices were used all over Norway, but this shape was typical for the area.

    Øyer was one of the area’s most severely impacted by the Black Death in 1349-1350. It is believed that up to 75% of residents here died, and many of the farms were deserted until the late 17th century.

    Øyer is a farming and logging municipality, though recreation is increasingly through the ski centres.

    Tretten

    Tretten is a small village with a population of 860. In 2022, it made the news as the bridge that crosses the river completely collapsed. 

    Ringebu Municipality

    Ringebu municipality is located within the traditional Gudbrandsdalen region and has a population of 4,800. The largest and main settlement is the town of Ringebu. The coat-of-arms represents shows three flames, representing the three valleys and three parishes in the municipality.

    Ringebu

    Ringebu may be a small village, but it is home to Norway’s largest stave church. Read our travel guide below. 

    Ringebu Travel Guide

    Sør-Fron Municipality

    Sør-Fron Municipality is a small municipality in the Gudbrandsdalen valley. The coat-of-arms show a white or silver club on a green background. The club is reminiscent of the club that Kolbein Sterke used in 1021 when King Olav Haraldsson met the people of Fron and Dale-Gudbrand at Hundorp. The meeting is depicted in the Norse Sagas.

    The most important industries here are agriculture, industrial factories, and tourism.

    The famous play Peer Gynt is staged annually at Lake Gålå in the mountains around Sør-Fron. It is believed that Peer Gynt is set in the area.

    Hundorp

    Hundorp is the administrative centre of the municipality. Historically, Hundorp is a very important place. It was the centre of the petty kingdom of the Gudbrand Valley and as such an important place in terms of religion and politics.

    All this took place at Dale-Gudbrand’s farm. Dale-Gudbrand is a famous historic figure from the 1100s. He is mentioned in multiple Norse sagas, but most famously in the story of Olav the Holy christianising Gudbrandsdalen. You can read the story here. The image above is a drawing of Olav christianising the farmers. 

    Around the farm are five large grave mounds, though sadly one of them was removed. The four remaining are between 23 and 32 metres (75ft and 105ft). Additionally, there’s a square ring of stones and the remains of a round ring of stones, indicating a possible worshipping site.

    Today it is a Pilgrim Centre. There is a small farm shop with local food products and souvenirs. You can also spend the night there if you wish. Click here to visit their website. 

    Harpefoss

    Harpefoss is a small town with a population of 335. The name comes from the railway development in 1896, when the railway station was named Harpefoss. People have lived here for centuries, though, and old names were Skurdal and Ryssland. Harpefoss is the name of the waterfall that separates two hamlets.

    During the railway development, Harpefoss Hotel was built. It is the only hotel left that is one of the original hotels from the railway development period that still stands. It is built in Swiss style with neo-Gothic features. It has long since been closed down as a hotel, and after a period as a country store, the house is now a residence.

    In Harpefoss you can stay in a historic farm! 

    The farm ‘Sygard Grytting’ has belonged to the same family since the 14th century. The current owner is the 16th generation since the year 1534. 

    It’s believed that as far back as Christianity goes, pilgrims would stay at the property on their way towards Nidaros in Trondheim. Because of these, there are unusual details in some of the buildings that are very similar to details found in monasteries. 

    You can stay in historic houses from the 17th century – the same houses the pilgrims stayed in – or buildings from the 19th century. 

    The property is still a working farm. 

    Agriculture specialises in sheep, grain, grass production and forestry. In ancient times, the operation was very versatile and the farm was self-sufficient in most things.

    Sødorp Church

    Sødorp Church is a wooden cruciform church from 1752. It’s believed the first church on the site was a stave church, but it was replaced in 1570 and no trace of it remains today. In 1752, the church was replaced once again with the church we have today.

    Originally the church stood in Sødorp, a small town just south of Vinstra – hence its name. However, Vinstra emerged as a major town in the early 20th century, and it was decided to move the church there. In 1910, the church was moved to its present location. 

    The 18th century church originally had a very high tower, but it was destroyed by wind in 1850. The church then got a stumpy small tower (click here for a photo of it). When it was moved to Vinstra, they made a new high tower for the church. You can see photos of the construction process here, here, and its completion here. 

    Much of the interior is from the 18th century, including the altarpiece, pulpit, choir arch, crucifix and relief figures. The soapstone baptismal font is from the Middle Ages, though.

    In the graveyard you’ll find a memorial stone to the real Peer Gynt. 

    Nord-Fron Municipality

    Nord-Fron is a small municipality with a population of around 5,600. It is home to Skåbu, a village located 870m above sea level. It is Norway’s highest situated rural area with a permanent settlement. The coat-of-arms depicts a Dole Gudbrandsddal horse; the area has a long tradition of horse breeding and is one of the main centres in Norway.

    Kvam

    Kvam is probably most famous for the battles that took place here during World War II. During the military campaign in Norway in 1940, Kvam was the scene of a battle between German and British forces. During the battle, the original Kvam Church (from 1776) was destroyed, along with 70 houses. There is a whole Wiki page to the battles, which you will find here. 

    By Kvam Church is the Peace Park, which is a memorial to the locals killed during World War II. There are also memorials on Stølane (Kvamsfjellet) where Russian soldiers were shot by Germans, and on Hillingen where three Norwegian soldiers lost their lives in a battle against German troops.

    Kvam has a British military cemetery. There is also a museum about World War II, the Gudbrandsdal War Memorial Collection, in town.

    Remember the battle at Otta in 1612 between Norwegian peasants and the Scots? Well, after the battle 134 Scottish prisoners were taken from Otta to Kvam. At Klomstadlåven, most were killed in a massacre. The barn building where they were kept before they were massacred, was destroyed during World War II.

    Kvam currently has a population of 762. Most of the industry has closed down in the last few years.

    Sel Municipality

    Sel’s coat-of-arms depicts a girl playing a trumpet. This represents the local legend about the Prillar-Guri, where in 1612 a Scottish army marched through on its way to Sweden. They were stopped by the farmers at the Battle of Kringen, and legend says that the farmers were made aware of the army’s arrival by a local girl with a trumpet.

    Sel is regarded as one of the more scenic and historically significant areas of the Gudbrandsdalen valley, which a large number of Norway’s heritage-listed farms being here.

    Otta

    In the higher part of the Gudbrandsdlaen valley is the town of Otta. It is the next major town after Lillehammer, and you can find out more via our travel guide. 

    Otta Travel Guide

    Sel Church

    Sel Church is a historic wooden church dating back to 1742. It is not the first church on the site, though. It is believed that the first church here was a wooden stave church built in the 13th century. However, the church has since been rebuilt twice due to the older ones deteriorating.

    Sel

    Sel is a small village with a population of 437. Sel was the main town in the region until Otta was built up around the time the Dovrebanen was completed in the area.

    In Sigrid Undset’s novel about Kristin Lavransdatter, the protagonist grows up at Jørundgard, a medieval farm. The movie was filmed on the property too. Unfortunately the property is now closed to the public.

    Dovre Municipality

    You are starting to get higher into Norway now! Dovre municipality gives its name to the railway line but also the Dovrefjell National Park. The coat-of-arms depicts a muskox. The animal is not native to Norway, but in 1932 ten were released near Dovre. Besides muskox, wild reindeer and wolverines also live in the municipality.

    People have lived at Dovre for around 6,000 years. In the Stone Age, they were primarily hunters and fishermen. Approximately 2000 years ago, the first farms were developed. Dovre is mentioned in the Norse Sagas when King Olav travelled through the area, forcing the locals to either become Christian or suffer death.

    After leaving Dovre, the path becomes more mountainous. As this is located on the Pilgrims Road, many mountain stations were established on the road to accommodate those crossing the mountains to Trondheim.

    Dovre Village

    Dovre is the administrative centre of the municipality. Close to Dovre is Budsjord Pilegrimsgården – hotell Dovre, a historic mountain farm and accommodations for travellers on the Pilgrims Road. The property is mentioned in documents from the 1400s, while the 17 protected buildings are from between the 17th and 19th centuries.

    Dombås

    Dombås is the next major town that you pass through and it is also an important meeting point between east and west. You can read more about Dombås on our travel guide. 

    Dombås Travel Guide

    Fokstugu Fjellstue

    On your left you will pass one of the historic mountain accommodations. The first accommodations on the site were constructed around 1120 by King Øystein Magnusson, wo wanted the pilgrims to have places to stay on their journey. While the farm has been rebuilt multiple times since then, pilgrims heading to Trondheim have always stayed there.

    Today the property is a sheep farm, and it does open in the summer for travellers who want to spend the night there. The farm is run by the 11th generation of the same family who have owned it.

    Hjerkinn

    Hjerkinn is in the Dovrefjell mountains and is one of the driest places in the country, with only 222 millimetres (8.7 inches) in annual precipitation. The train station is an impressive looking building. The Hjerkinn Station is Dovrebanens highest station at 1,017 metres above sea level.

    Hjerkinn is an old rest station with traditions dating back to the 13th century, when pilgrims would travel through the area.

    Trøndelag County

    You now cross into Trøndelag county. 

    Oppdal Municipality

    Oppdal is the first municipality you drive through in Trøndelag. This is a mountainous municipality, with large parts of it in the Dovrefjell. Østfjella and Trollheimen mountains. This is represented in the coat-of-arms.

    125 years ago, Oppdal was a purely agricultural community where the people produced practically everything they needed themselves. Today agriculture is still a significant industry. The sheep industry in Oppdal is the largest in the country with 45,000 sheep here.

    Kongsvoll Mountain Lodge

    Kongsvoll is another historic mountain lodge. The original inn was built in the 12th century, while the oldest parts of the lodge date back to the 18th century.

    Nearby is the Kongsvoll Alpine Garden, run by Trondheim’s university. This is the only alpine botanical garden in Scandinavia.

    Oppdal

    Oppdal is a major town and the administrative centre for the municipality. 

    Oppdal Travel Guide

    Rennebu Municipality

    Rennebu is a mostly mountainous municipality. The coat of arms shows the outline of the local church, Rennebu Church, which is one of the oldest churches in Norway based on a Y-shaped outline. The Trollheimen and Forollhogna National Parks lie in the municipality and the salmon river Orkla flows through it.

    Berkåk

    Berkåk is a small village with a population of around 959. The name comes from the word birch, referring to a prominent type of tree in the area. Every year in August, the Rennebumartnan is hosted in town. It is a sales exhibition for home improvement and handicrafts with around 20,000 visitors.

    Mitre Gauldal

    Mitre Gauldal is primarily an agricultural municipality. Every third person living here works in agriculture. Milk, poultry and eggs are produced here. The coat-of-arms shows a silver crossed Y figure on a green background. The crossed Y has several meanings. First, it symbolises the landscape which is based on the meeting of the two valleys here (Gauldal and Soknedal). The municipality also has a major Y-shaped road and railway junction. Lastly, the Budal Church, dating from 1745, is one of the oldest and few remaining Y-shaped churches in the country.

    Soknedal

    Soknedal is a small village located by the river Sokna.

    Støren

    Støren is the administrative centre of Mitre Gauldal municipality. It is located in the Gauldalen valley where the Gaula and Sokna rivers meet. The Dovrebanen and the Rørosbanen meet here as well.

    Melhus Municipality

    Melhus is the last municipality you pass through before Trondheim. Agriculture is important here, and the valleys are dominated by grain fields. The coat-of-arms symbolise a man called Einar Tambarskjelve, a famous chieftain and archer from Melhus in the 11th century. The entire area of Melhus was known during the Viking Age. It was the site of the first farm Rimul at which Jarl Haakon was killed by his slave, Tormod Kark. Archaeological excavations in the area have uncovered discoveries from the Viking Age. Additionally, 3,000 year old graves have been found.

    Melhus

    Melhus is the administrative centre of the municipality. Melhus is home to the Rimul farm, which is known from the Viking Age. It was the scene of the murder of Håkon Sigurdsson by his slave Tormod Kark, as described in the Saga of King Olav. The farm is still in operation today.

    Hakon had a mistress called Thora at the Rimul farm. Hakon and his slave were seeking shelter in hiding from Olav Tryggvason (founder of Trondheim) and his men, who were at the time searching for him. Thora led them to a pig sty beneath a great stone. Later, after killing the Earls son, Olav Tryggvason arrived at Rimul with a group of local farmers, now supporting him. The story continues in the Norse Sagas:

    Then Olaf held a speech out in the farm, he went up unto a great rock lying near the pig sty. Olaf spoke, and in his speech he said he would reward any man richly who could harm Hákon Earl. The Earl and Kark heard this speech. They had light where they lay. The Earl said: “Why are you so pale, yet sometimes black as dirt? It is not so that you wish to harm me?” “No,” says Kark. “We were born on the same night,” says the Earl. “Close will also our deaths be.”

    Lying in the pig sty at night, Kark killed Hakon. He brought the head to Olav, hoping to collect a reward. Unfortunately, Olav did not respect a slave murdering his own lord. Tormod Kark was himself decapitated. Both heads were put on stakes at Munkholmen for people to spit at.

    Trondheim Municipality

    You now cross into Trondheim municipality, the last municipality for the drive. 

    Trondheim

    You have made it to Trondheim, Norway’s third-largest city. You can read more about Trondheim via our travel guide below. 

    Trondheim Travel Guide

    Continue the drive

    Mo i Rana to Trondheim on the E6

    Continue your drive along the E6 up to the Arctic Circle and Mo i Rana. 

    Mo i Rana to Trondheim

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • European Highways, Karasjok, Kirkenes, Lakselv, Road-trips, Varanger

    Drive it Yourself: Lakselv to Kirkenes on the E6

    Drive it Yourself: Lakselv to Kirkenes on the E6

    The E6 is the main highway that runs through Norway. The last stretch of it is between Lakselv and Kirkenes. Here, the landscape is unlike anything else in Norway: rocky, barren coastlines separating stretches of tundra. The Sami people have called this area home for thousands of years, while Norwegians and Kvens settled from the 19th century onwards.

    The highway follows the Finnish border for a large portion, and it’s even possible to take small detours into Finland. It’s actually quicker to get between the two towns by going through Finland, but for our purposes we will take the scenic route on the E6. 

    In this article...

    Downloadable Version of This Guide

    Download this guide to have it as a PDF ready to go for your road-trip!

    All downloadable guides come with an interactive Google Map for easier navigation. 

    View at the Store

    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Information about facilities along the way

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the region & towns
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Facilities including supermarkets, toilets, petrol, hotels, cafes, restaurants with addresses.
    Visit Our YouTube Channel
    Visit Our YouTube Channel

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    The drive: Lakselv to Kirkenes on the E6

    Lakselv

    This drive begins in Lakselv, the largest settlement in Porsanger Municipality, with a population of around 2,200. The village is located at the end of the Porsangerfjord and the E6 passes through the village.

    Lakselv Travel Guide

    Porsangmoen

    Porsangmoen is one of the major military camps in Northern Norway.

    The District Command for Finnmark was established at Skoganvarre (you’ll pass through it later) from the beginning of April 1945, however Skoganvarre turned out to not be suitable for a larger military camp. It was decided to move the camp to the area it is in now. Before 1945, there was very little military presence in the area.

    Porsangmoen has one of Norway’s largest shooting ranges at 207km2. It is used by all defence branches of the Norwegian military as well as for foreign departments who come to train on how to solve missions and survive in an Arctic winter environment.

    Porsangermoen is currently undergoing a major renovation including new barracks, a new sewerage treatment plant, new internal roads, and apartments for officers.

    In Norway, military service is compulsory for both men and women. They typically start at the age of 19 and do service for 12 months.

    Skoganvarre

    Skoganvarre is a small settlement (population: 54) located roughly halfway between Lakselv and Karasjok.The name is a Norwegianisation of the Northern Sami Shuvvanvarri (Whispering Mountain).

    The area has long been an important communication hub in Finnmark as a crossing point between Lakselv-Karasjok and Alta-Tana.

    In 1853, the state built a mountain lodge and then in 1870 a telegraph station. In 1924, the road connection was built.

    Karasjok

    Karasjok is the second-largest municipality in Norway in terms of size, with an area of 5,464km2. However, it has one of the lowest populations of any municipality, with the only settlement being Karasjok. The population density is 0.5 inhabitants per square kilometre (1.3/sq mi). Most of Karasjok’s population are Sami: approximately 80% of the population speak a Sami language as their first language.

    The important industries in Karasjok are reindeer husbandry and agriculture, as well as outdoor industries such as hunting and fishing.

    The coat-of-arms represent the meeting of three tribes: the Sami, Finns, and Norwegians. The symbol of fire was chosen because of its importance to the Sami people. The fire brings heat and therefore survival in the winter, but it is also a major threat, both in the tents and the large pine forests.

    Karasjok has the lowest measured temperature in Norway, -51.4C, measured in 1886. The highest temperature measured in Karasjok is 32.4C.

    Karasjok

    Karasjok is regarded as one of the main centres of Sami culture in Norway, and is an interesting little town for spending some time in. 

    Karasjok Travel Guide

    Karasjok River

    Now you will follow the Karasjohka river along the Norwegian/Finnish border. The river is 161km (100 mi) long and runs through the area of Finnmark. It is one of the most important rivers that drains the Finnmarksvidda plateau and it flows into the famous salmon fishing Tana River.

    Váljohka

    Váljohka is a small village located where the Váljohka and Karasjohka rivers meet. The village has a small church, Valjok Church, that was built in 1932. The church seats about 60 people and is known for its bright red and blue colours inside. They took inspiration from the traditional colours of the gakti (the Sami costume). The church is not visible from the E6, but it is.a short detour off the highway. It is marked on the highway as “Váljohka kpl”

    Deanu-Tana Municipality

    Deanu (Northern Sami) or Tana (Norwegian) is the next municipality you will pass through. The Sami word can be translated as ‘great river’, referring to the Tana River. The population of the municipality is around 2,800, with the population currently declining.  

    The coat-of-arms represents riverboats that have been used in the area for centuries. The three boats symbolise the three ethnic groups here: Sami, Kven and Norwegian, and the colours mimic the red and yellow of the Norwegian coat-of-arms.

    A large number of people work in retail or hospitality (29%), while 23% of the population work in healthcare and the social sector. The most important economic resources are the farmland or forest area. The world’s northernmost dairy is Tine in Tana Bru, and it employs around 30 people.

    The municipality is located along the lower river basin of the Tana River. Most of the inhabitants are Sami people. The river has represented a mainstay of the local economy. It is one of Europe’s main salmon rivers, though no large-scale commercial fishing is done. Because of the river, the municipality has one of the most spectacular gatherings in Norway. As many as 25,000 goo-sanders can accumulate along the waterway system. There are also thousands of common eider and long-tailed duck who come to the river. Bears are rarely spotted in the municipality.

    Tana Bru

    This is the main village in Deanu-Tana. Tana Bru means ‘Tana Bridge’ in English and is named after the bridge that crosses the river to the village of Skiippagurra on the other side of the river.

    Skiippagurra

    On the other side of the bridge is a small village called Skiippagurra. It has a population of around 254 residents and is a historic trading place. This is where the E6 stops following the Tana River and continues across to Kirkenes.

    Nesseby Municipality

    Nesseby is a small municipality located at the isthmus between the Varangerfjord and the Tana River at the entrance to the Varanger pensinula. The population lives in small settlements along the fjord and the Varangerhalvøya National Park is partly located in the park. The municipality is known for its interesting birdlife and also its tundra with areas of bog and marsh.

    Today the municipality is known as Unjárga-Nesseby, reflecting the Sami community who live here. Nesseby was the second municipality in Norway to get a Sami name. Most of the inhabitants are Sami and Sami is being taught as the first language in schools. In historic times, reindeer used to cross this area as part of their annual migration. This led the Sami to coming into the area. The area between Skippagurra and Varangerbotn is full of archaeological finds from different periods.

    The coat-of-arms represents a cloudberry plant.

    The municipality is the birthplace of Isak Saba, the first Sami to be elected to the Norwegian parliament.

    Varangerbotn

    Varangerbotn is a small village that is the administrative centre of Nesseby. The population is around 341.

    In Varanger you can visit the Varanger Sami Museum, a museum for the history and culture of the Sami in Varangerbotn. The museum presents the Sea Sami history, Sami prehistory, and contemporary Sami culture.

    This is where the E6 and the E75 separate. The E75 continues onto the Varanger peninsula towards Vardø, while the E6 goes to Kirkenes. The roundabout in town marks the beginning the National Tourist Road for Varanger, one of Norway’s 18 national tourist roads. If you want to do the tourist road, it is the E75 towards Vardø.

    Varangerfjord

    For the rest of the drive, you will be driving alongside the Varangerfjord. This is Norway’s easternmost fjord, and it stretches approximately 100km (62 mi), emptying into the Barents Sea. It does not have the hallmarks of a fjord carved by glaciers, so is not technically a fjord. Still, it looks pretty fjord-like!

    The mouth is about 70km (43 mi) wide, located between the town of Vardø in the northwest and the village of Grense Jakobselv in the southeast.

    Around the fjord is many Kven (Finnish immigrants) and Sami.

    Nyelv

    Nyelv is a small community with a population of 30. There are two burial mounds from the Neolithic Age located near Nyelv.

    Sør-Varanger Municipality

    Sør-Varanger is the easternmost municipality in Norway. It is located alongside the borders of both Finland and Russia. Most of the inhabitants live in Kirkenes. Until 1826, the area was jointly taxed by Norway and Russia.

    Bugøyfjord

    Bugøyfjord is a small village along the Varangerfjord. It was a predominantly Sami community until the Kven people arrived in the 1860s. It was one of the first villages to be burned to the ground by Germans during the retreat in 2004.

    In the village is a memorial marker for John Savio, a famous artist from the area. He was born in 1902 in Bugøyfjord and was the first Sami person to have his own exhibition at the National Gallery. He mainly worked with woodcuts. He never had a major artistic breakthrough during his life, but after his death has been recognized as one of the grewatest Sami artists. He is also the only Sami artist to make a name for himself before World War II. He passed away in 1938.

    There is a small museum for him in Kirkenes. The John Savio Prize is awarded every two years to an artist with a Sami background who has distinguished themselves in the art field in Norway.

    Neiden

    Neiden is a small village with a population of around 250. The village is located by the Neiden River, which is famous for its salmon fishing. A large part of the population are Skolt Sami, which is the Orthodox Sami. In town is the Skolt Sami Museum from 2017, which is trying to preserve and present Skolt Sami culture. They also have an outdoor museum with preserved buildings from an old Skolt Sami settlement. It includes St. Georges Chapel, a Russian Orthodox chapel that was built in 1565.

    The Skolt Sami are a unique Sami group. They are more closely related to the Russians compared to the Finns or Norwegians and are regarded as a minority group amongst the Sami. They have been more severely impacted by land borders and country regulations than other Sami groups and are marked by high unemployment and low literacy rates. The Skolt Sami language is considered highly endangered and was only written down in 1992.

    There is a settlement called Neiden on the Norwegian and the Finnish side. The area used to be one settlement for the Skolt Sami, but when the borders were laid out in the 1850s they were separated. When the area was divided up, Neiden was forced to split across the countries.

    Neiden also has Neiden Chapel – built in 1902 as a Norwegian ‘dragestil’ (dragon style) church to symbolise the Norwegian state sovereignty in the area. It is a Lutheran church and is well worth seeing. The Norwegian government invited Norwegian settlers to the area, building the Lutheran church to counterbalance the Orthodox chapel.

    Since 1906, Norwegians have come in large numbers because of all the mining in the area.

    Garrison Sør-Varanger

    The garrison in Sør-Varanger is a military unit based at Høybuktmoen. The departments main task is to patrol and monitor the Norwegian-Russian border. The garrison consists mainly of conscripted soldiers, and there are 400 new conscripts every six months. They mostly tell tourists when they are wandering into Russia, but another goal is to monitor Russian activity on the border.

    Kirkenes

    The end point for the road is at Kirkenes, the easternmost town in Norway. 

    Kirkenes Travel Guide
  • Finland, Northern Norway

    Things to Consider When Booking a Northern Lights Tour

    Things to Consider When Booking a Northern Lights Tour

    This winter I have been taking groups up to the Arctic to help them try and find the northern lights. While it is possible to see the northern lights in the towns, I’ve been encouraging them to book tours so they can get out of the towns and be in complete darkness.

    In this article...

    Fixed location vs. flexible tours

    I noticed a lot of companies have northern lights tours where they take you out to their camp or campground. This is great because it is an indoor place where you can sit inside and relax while waiting for the lights to come out. However, there are some disadvantages.

    If the tour is going out to the one spot, there’s no flexibility. The northern lights may not be visible from their camp due to clouds, but it may be clear another 45 minutes away from the camp. For the tours that mention their cabin or camping area, you are stuck going to that one spot.

    I always recommend tours where the bus is driving wherever the northern lights have been seen.

    northern lights

    Big bus vs. minibus

    There aren’t too many differences between going on a big bus tour versus going with a mini-buss. In most situations, both buses will fit at any spot suitable for observing the northern lights.

    The big difference comes down to people, of course. Do you want to be sharing the same observation spot with 40 other people or 16 other people? More people means more time to get on/off the bus, more people setting up tripods, and more people potentially spoiling your photos by using flash (yes, it happens).

    You are basically paying a little bit more for a little bit more exclusivity. I would always pick a minibus tour over a big bus tour.

    Should I just do a bus tour or should I do an experience along with it?

    There are northern lights tour that just drive you around looking for northern lights, while there are other experiences that combine northern lights with activities. I see advantages and disadvantages of both.

    Say you want to combine the northern lights tour with a snowmobile safari. You head out, ride the snowmobile safari for two hours but see no northern lights. It’s a shame, but at least you had fun on the snowmobile?

    However, say you go on a snowmobile and get incredible lights. You can’t stop driving to set up your tripod and take pictures; you just get to experience the lights as you drive. It’s not a bad thing, but you miss out on photo opportunities. Also, experiences tend to be shorter than bus tours (2 hours vs 6 hours, for example), so you’re much more limited in how much you can see the northern lights.

    I’d say it comes down to personal preference. For me, I’d always pick a basic northern lights tour. If I want to see the northern lights, I want that to be the main focus of the night. Save the fun activities for the daytime when you can actually see around you!

    How long should the tour be?

    Ideally you want to book a tour that will go for at least 6 hours. Most tours start at 6pm and will have you back by midnight. While the northern lights can be seen early in the evening, sometimes they like to wait until the middle of the night or even early morning. The northern lights are at their best between 10pm and 1am, so you don’t want a four-hour tour sending you home at 10pm.

    Flexible policies

    Always try to find companies that offer good northern lights policies, like “if you don’t see the northern lights, you can come the next night for free!”

    I don’t like companies that say “northern lights guarantee”. The northern lights are a natural attraction and are never guaranteed.

    Does the company I book with matter?

    Yes and no. Let’s look at Tromsø, which has an overwhelming number of companies offering northern lights tours. I always try to look for companies that are well established. I check their website, their reviews, and look at how well they promote the northern lights. For example, Guide Gunnar is famous in Tromsø for northern lights, and his website looks well established and like a safe choice. Same goes for companies like Chasing Lights, Pukka Travels, and Norwegian.travel. I also look at how quickly they are selling out and how far in advance they are selling out. I never go for the cheapest tour or the only one available at the last minute.

    Always book directly with the company and not through a third party agent.

    Have any tips?

    If you have any extra tips you want to add, share them in the comments below.

    My Northern Lights Guides

    Click here for my guide to seeing the northern lights.

    Click here for my northern lights log.

  • Ålesund, Hurtigruten, Walking Guides

    Highlights of Ålesund Self-Guided Walking Tour

    Highlights of Ålesund Self-Guided Walking Tour

    Located on the west coast of Norway, Ålesund is a town not to be missed. The town is famous for its Art Nouveau architecture and has regularly been voted Norway’s most beautiful city. But it’s beauty arose from devastation; in 1904 a fire devastated the entire city, with almost all the wooden buildings in Ålesund destroyed. Like a phoenix, Ålesund rose from the ashes and is now a lively, thriving community.

    This walking guide is designed for people visiting on the coastal ferry but is suited to everyone. The walk starts at the Hurtigruten pier and ends at the hiking path for Mt. Aksla.

    The online version is simplified; if you want something with directions, depth and recommendations of things to do, consider buying our downloadable version. 

    In this article...

    The E39 Highway

    Ålesund is located on the E39, the main highway along the west coast. You can find my guide to the E39 by clicking the link below. 

    The E39 Highway
    Ålesund Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Norway's Coastal Ferry

    Ålesund is a port of call of Norway’s coastal ferry. Find my guide for the coastal ferry by clicking the link below. 

    Norway's Coastal Ferry

    Downloadable Version of This Guide

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided walks on our online store. 

    View at the Store

    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the city
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos

    Ålesund Self-Guided Walking Tour

    This walk begins at the Hurtigruten pier. 

    Skateflukaia & Skansekaia

    These are two piers that are located between the Hurtigruten pier and the tourist office. 

    Here you’ll find a national monument commemorating the Shetland Bus, which ran between Ålesund and the Shetland islands between 1940 and 1945. During World War II Ålesund was described as ‘Little London’ because of the illegal resistance activity in town and because so many people managed to escape to England via Ålesund.

    The monument was unveiled by Crown Prince Haakon on the 8th of May 1995. 

    There is another monument here for the fire of 1904. It is a row of four columns with images of the devastation from the fire. 

    Kongens gate

    Kongens gate is where you will see some beautiful examples of the Art Nouveau architecture. Start at the higher numbers and work your way down. 

    Kongens gate 28

    This is home to the Bjørknes School. You can see a difference in architecture compared to number 25. Both were built in the same period after the fire, but number 28 is more inspired by Central European art nouveau, while number 25 is inspired by Old Norse design, and it has taken inspiration from stave church buildings in Norway that fused Norse and Christian religions.

    Kongens gate 25

    The building burnt down in 1970. The only thing that was intact after the fire was the façade facing Kongens gate. There were discussions about demolishing it, but the town planning manager convinced the owner that it could survive.

    Kongens gate 21

    Number 21 is inspired by the Norwegian dragon style, which drew its motifs from the Norwegian Viking period.

    Kongens gate 18

    Kongens gate 18 is interesting because the building is actually a copy of the building that used to stand there. The original building was very dilapidated by the 1970s, so it was torn down and rebuilt as a copy. 

    Kongens gate 10B

    Kongens gate 10B is the most unique building on the street. The shape results from the rebuilding after the fire. It broadens out as it goes back. The building is so narrow that access to the upper floors is via the neighbour’s front door. The architect Karl Norum designed the building. The stone cladding is heritage listed.

    The Thousand Steps and Lihauggata

    Despite being known as ‘The Thousand Steps’, these 53 steps lead up to Lihauggata, one of the few remaining hills in town.

    Many of the original hills have been blasted away and flattened out as Ålesund was developed.

    The only victim of the town fire lived here. Ironically enough, she was the next-door neighbour of the fire station, which was also here. She was an older lady who safely escaped the fire, but decided she must take her possessions with her, so she returned to her home.

    Kongens gate 6

    This is a good example of well-preserved Årt Nouveau where the old style is looked after.

    Avisgutten

    On Kongens gate you’ll see a statue of a paperboy. It was donated to Ålesund by the newspaper in 1998.

    St. Olavs Plass & the Rønneberg Building

    At the end of Kongens gate you’ll cross a square called St. Olavs Plass.

    Walk out of Kongens gate, cross St. Olavs square and continue towards the Rønneberg Building (Notenesgate 9). The Rønneberg building was built for the Carl E. Rønneberg and Sons company in 1907 by the waterfront and was a trading company. This area is where the most traditional Ålesund companies have been since 1812. The building is clad in local light marble.

    Most of St. Olavs Plass and the roads here are built on reclaimed land.

    Arbeideren

    Arbeideren is the former trade union building that was completed in 1906. The distinctive façade is a mix of Art Nouveau detailing and ornamentation.

    It is now one of Norway’s finest public festivity centres and it is an important part of Ålesund’s social and cultural life.  

    On the other side of the building from where you are you can see ‘Arbeiderforening’ written on the building, which refers to the trade union. 

    Ålesund Strait

    Ålesund is spread out over multiple islands. The islands are interconnected by bridges and subsea tunnels. Ålesund’s town centre is built around the narrow sound Ålesundet, between the islands Åspøya in the west and Nørvøya in the east.

    From here you get a good view of the strait that runs through Ålesund. The ‘sund’ in ‘Ålesund’ means ‘strait’. 

    Art Nouveau Centre

    This is the old Swan pharmacy, built as a chemists shop and private residence for the Øwre family. The building was later bought by the Ålesund Savings Bank and was restored externally.

    The actual chemist’s shop is still intact inside. The chemist’s shop is one of the oldest institutions in Ålesund. From as early as 1819 there was a chemist here, until it closed in 2001 and the Art Nouveau Centre moved in. The centre has exhibitions spread across three floors. They have art nouveau ads, jewellery, and several multimedia presentations. The cobblestone is from 1915 – before then it was unpaved and quite dusty and muddy. 

    The Herring Wife

    Across the street from the Art Nouveau Centre is a statue of the herring wife – commemorating the role women had here in Ålesund. They were primarily the sellers of the fish. 

    Ålesund Church

    The church was ready to be consecrated in September 1909, so it is not an old church. However, the old Ålesund Church used to stand on the same site. 

    The first Ålesund Church was built in 1854. It was 50 years old when it burned down. The architectural competition jury received 63 proposals in response to its invitation to tender a new church.

    The church is heavily inspired by medieval times and therefore had small windows, making it very dark. The architect combined Norwegian church architecture with Jugendstil.

    Nedre Strandgate, Prestbrygge and Storneskaia

    This area is where historically the klippfisk (clipfish in English) was loaded onto boats. 

    Ålesund is one of the biggest export ports in Norway for klippfisk. This is without a doubt the most important basis for Ålesund’s growth as a trading town.

    Ålesund Town Hall

    Ålesund Town Hall is one of the classic 1970s style office buildings in Norway. It has been voted the second-ugliest building in Norway, and rightly so!

    Kaiser Wilhelms Gate

    The area here is called Kipervika and is named after the barrel makers who lived here. In the 1950s the sea came up to where the benches are. 

    The street is named after Kaiser Wilhelm. He often holidayed in the Norwegian fjords on his yacht Hohenzollern and was a great admirer of the west country landscape on the Sunnmøre Fjords. When he heard about the fire in Ålesund he ordered three fully loaded ships carrying food, medicine, building materials and blankets to Ålesund. Help also came from other parts of the world, but the assistance from Kaiser Wilhelm II was magnificent and he stole the show and overshadowed the other providers of assistance.

    Ålesund's Old Prison

    On the corner of Rådhusgata you’ll see the old prison. The building dates to 1864; during the fire in innards were destroyed but the stone walls survived. The state lion is above the entrance. It was formerly the district Court and prison. 14 prisoners were inside at the time of the fire. When the gaoler realised the prison as going to catch fire, he left them go but told them to come back the next day. Today it’s a prison admin building.

    Ålesund Town Park

    The park was designed in 1885 with the purpose of being for the pleasure and recreation of the townsfolk, who were beginning to be inconvenienced by the noise of wagons and other racket. The pattern was the English park landscape, with footpaths winding around hillocks and between the verdant trees and flower beds. The park got a major facelift in 2010.

    The vegetation is found in other parts of the country. A surprise is the Chilean tree, the monkey-puzzle tree. It was brought to the town from South America by sailors from Ålesund at the beginning of the 1900s.

    Thanks for coming!

    I hope you enjoyed this walk around Ålesund. Be sure to go and have the best fish and chips in town close to the pier before leaving! You can find more information about Ålesund via our travel guide page. 

    Ålesund Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Norway's Coastal Ferry

    Ålesund is a port of call of Norway’s coastal ferry. Find my guide for the coastal ferry by clicking the link below. 

    Norway's Coastal Ferry
  • Stockholm, Sweden

    Riddarholmen Church: Stockholm’s Oldest Building

    Riddarholmen Church: Stockholm’s Oldest Building

    Stockholm is growing on me. It is, after all, probably the best-preserved of the Scandinavian capitals. It avoided bombardments and devastating fires, unlike Copenhagen, and it is significantly older than Oslo. Also, Sweden was neutral during World War II, protecting it from bombing or sabotage attacks. When I first visited Stockholm I found it too crowded, and while that is still true every visit, I find new appreciations for the city now. One of those is Riddarholmen Church, arguably my favourite historic building in the city.

    Located on the island of Riddarholmen, which is just across a small bridge from Gamla Stan, this church covers almost 1,000 years of history from Stockholm’s founding in 1252 right through to the present day. Centuries old traditions survive to the present day and the conversion of the church into a historic site is fantastic. It is one of the best-presented historic churches I’ve been in, with interesting exhibitions, information boards everywhere, and easy to follow maps. Riddarholmen Church is also the oldest preserved building with the oldest brick walls above ground, as well as being Stockholm’s only preserved monastery church.

    Here is an overview of the historic importance of Riddarholmen Church as well as some highlights as to what you can see there.

    In this article...

    Stockholm Travel Guide
    Sweden Travel Guide

    Historic Context

    The Greyfriars Monastery

    The history of the church begins with the Greyfriars Monastery. Soon after entering the church, you will see a large information sign about them, complete with relics found during restorations as well as images of what the church likely looked like during the time of the Greyfriars.

    Riddarholmen Church is part of the former medieval Greyfriars Monastery, making it one of the oldest buildings in Stockholm as the monastery was established here in the late 13th century. It is not known when the church was completed, but historians believe it was around the early 14th century. The church was much smaller, of course. The floorplan had two naves – common for monastic churches of the mendicant orders of Scandinavia and Northern Germany during the Middle Ages. There was also no tower.

    Side note – the Greyfriars is a Scandinavian term for the Franciscans. The Franciscan priory was established in Italy in the early 13th century by Francis of Assisi and came to Sweden in the 1220s. The ‘Greyfriars’ term came because of their grey clothing.

    When Riddarholmen Church was completed, it was made almost entirely out of brick. This was unusual in Sweden. It has been thought that the ‘lavishness’ of the church is because Magnus Ladulås wanted to be buried there. He was the Swedish King in the late 13th century. He was the son of Birger Jarl, who founded Stockholm in 1252, and wasn’t the heir – his older brother Valdemar was. After Birger’s death, the two brothers came into conflict and, with the help of the Danes, Magnus ousted his brother and became King. There is nothing particularly notable or famous about his reign; he likely gave funding to the church and is why he is buried there. Or is he? More on that later.

    What the church probably looked like during the monastery time

    While the monks led a very simple life, they were also very cultured. The first book printed in Sweden was produced by the Greyfriars in 1483.

    Not much remains of the monastery today; some of the walled-up openings towards the abbey garden can be seen in the form of niches with pointed arches in the southern wall. Medieval painting has also been found in the vaults.

    The Reformation

    Of course, the Reformation meant huge changes for the monastery. The monastery was closed and the church became Lutheran. Around this time, its role shifted and it became known as the Royal burial church of the Swedish monarchs and for the Seraphim Order. The church became associated with modern nobility in Sweden.

    Riddarholmen Church was also expanded after the Reformation, with the royal tombs being added and the chancel being designed in the Dutch Renaissance style. The tower was added after the Reformation, too.

    1835 Fire

    In 1835, Riddarholmen Church had its largest and most impactful fire. The fire was started by a lightning strike on the 28th of July 1835 and lasted for three days. During this time, the tower spire collapsed as the entire upper part of the church burned. Thankfully, they were able to prevent the fire from entering the interior of the church.

    Restoration & Current Appearance

    The rebuilding of the church took three years. The most impactful part of the reconstruction was the cast iron spire, designed in the Neo-Gothic style and now an icon of the Stockholm skyline.

    The last addition to the church was in 1860, when the Bernadotte tomb choir was built.

    During that time, Riddarholmen Church became a three-nave church built in red brick. The church was originally built in the Gothic style, but the tombs are in various styles, including Rococo and Renaissance. It bears some similarities to Roskilde Cathedral in Denmark in that regard.

    What to see Inside the Church

    What's With all the Coats of Arms?

    One of the most unique parts of the church are all the coats of arms. It is probably the first thing you’ll recognise when you visit the church. Honestly, when I first visited the church I thought they were the coats of arms of the royal family, but I was very wrong.

    The coats of arms are for the knights of the Royal Order of the Seraphim. This is a Swedish royal order of chivalry created by King Frederick I on the 23rd of February 1743. Originally, the knights were supposed to supervise with the hospitals and mental asylums in Sweden, in particular the Seraphim hospital (the major hospital in Stockholm until it closed in 1980). This requirement eventually died out and today it is more a symbolic order.

    On the death of one of the knights, their coat of arms is put up and the two dates on the plaque indicate when they received the Order and on the day of their death. When they die, the bells of Riddarholmen Church ring the special Serephim chimes.

    The Royal Church & Tombs

    Riddarholmen Church is today the final resting place of most Swedish monarchs. Every monarch from Gustavus Adolphus (died 1632) to Gustaf V (died 195) are entombed here. The earlier monarchs Magnus (died 129) and Charles VIII are also buried here. There is only one exception: Queen Christina is buried within St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome. The Vasa dynasty were also not buried here. Queen Christina is fascinating; she refused to become Lutheran so gave up her title! The Vasa family was also not buried here.

    In total, 15 monarchs are buried at the church and are divided into three tombs: The Gustavian, the Karolinska, and the Bernadotte. All three are clearly marked with information boards and numbered maps showing who is buried where.

    The Gustavian burial chancel was built for King Gustav II Adolf (1594-1632). Gustav designed it himself before his death, but it was constructed after his death.

    The Medieval Tombs

    In the chancel (from the 13th century) are two sarcophagus-like tomb monuments for Magnus Ladulås as well as King Karl Knuttson, who died in 1470. The tombstones were made in the 1570s and are designed as effigies for the two kings. They were originally painted in bright colours but only traces of that remain today.

    The northern burial was thought to be Magnus, but in 2011 an analysis of the skeletons showed that it was far too young to be him. So, the mystery of Magnus’ grave remains.

    Side note – the gilding of the ribs in the chancel has no counterpart in Sweden and was probably paid for by a King.

    Royal Tombs

    There are three chapels where the royal family are buried. The first, and oldest one, is the Gustavian chapel. The Gustavian Chapel was built for King Gustav II Adolf (1594-1632). He designed it himself before his death, but construction only took place after he died. His sarcophagus is made of dark marble from Italy. There are also another 20 royals buried here. Those who died in the 17th century are in pewter coffins, which the others are mostly in oak coffins.

    The Karolinska chapel is the distinctive grey sandstone building. The sandstone comes from Gotland. In the black marble sarcophagus is Charles XII (1682-1718). Queen Ulrika Eleonora (1688-1741) and her husband King Fredrik I (1676-1751) rest in green charcoal marble sarcophagi. In the crypt are several kings with their respective consorts.

    The Bernadotte chapel is the last addition to the church. Here you can see King Karl XIV Johan’s sarcophagus. It is made of red garberg granite. Queen Desideria’s (1777-1860) sarcophagus is made of green charcoal marble and is in front of Karl Johan. In 2021 the walls were resealed, and during excavations archaeologists found 50 skeletons and a bridal crown from the 14th – 16th centuries.

    Non-Royal Chapels

    There are a large number of consorts, princes and princesses buried in the church.

    Riddarholmen Church contains five non-royal chapels, which were erected during the 17th century by various noble families. I won’t go through all of them, just some of the more interesting ones. I’ve always found the relationship between the Swedish monarchy and the Swedish noble families very interesting. Compared to the other Scandinavian countries (Denmark), the Swedish noble families have always had much more influence on the governing of the country, and I think this is well represented by the fact they are buried alongside the Swedish royals with barely any separation between graves.

    The Torstenson burial chapel was built in 1651 for field lord Lennart Torstenson. He was an important part of the Swedish military and became governor of Vastergotland. He is considered to be one of the most successful generals of his time, as well as one of Sweden’s greatest of all time.

    The Lewenhaupt chapel was built in 1654 for Gustaf Adolf Lewenhaupt and Carl Mauritz Lewenhaupt. They are beautiful wrought iron grilles. Both men were Swedish counts and field marshals and were also brothers. Many of their descendants are buried here too.

    Other Graves & Tombstones

    There are some other unique tombs in the church. In the middle of the choir is the Färlastenen from the 14th century. It was intended for a member of the medieval Farla family. According to legend, the stone belongs to the knight Karl Nilsson. The tombstone was found during a restoration in the early 20th century and there’s nothing that proves that Karl was a knight or belonged to the Farla family.

    North of the grave that was thought to be Magnus Ladulås are the remains of marshal Torgils Knutsson. After his execution in 1306, he was buried at the execution site but his body was later moved to Riddarholmen. His tomb was destroyed in the 17th century during the construction of the Karolinska tomb and it was lost for more than two centuries. It was found in the 1920s during a restoration in three parts. Torgils was a knight, Swedish councillor and marshal.

    Lastly, you will see the grave of Christ inside the church. This is one of the churches oldest objects: a wooden sculpture of Christ dating from around 1400. During the Middle Ages, it was used in the Passion Play at easter. This play told stories about the Bible; for the sculpture, it was wrapped up, laid in a chest, and the lid was closed. Two guards stood beside it, just like in the Bible, and in the morning, when the congregation came to church, the sculpture was removed. So, when the grave was opened, it was empty.

    The Passion Play was forbidden after the Reformation and most of those sculptures disappeared in Sweden. This one was moved to the Royal Armoury and over time lost its feet, arms, and half of its head. It also faded and became grimy. It was eventually left in the church and is believed to have been damaged by the 1835 fire. Today, only four remain and the one at Riddarholmen is the oldest.

    Visiting Riddarholmen Today

    Today the church is only used for burial and commemorative purposes.

    The church is open as an attraction during summer. You can view the opening hours by clicking here.

    It is possible to buy a ticket when visiting the Swedish Royal Palace; they are sold as a combo ticket. It is possible to pre-order tickets online.

    Be sure to check the annual programme of concerts so you can attend one.

    All of the chapels have information signs out the front in Swedish and English, making it easy to follow along and get a small insight into the importance of each person. For the royal burial vaults, there are numbered maps indicating who is buried where.

    The ground is uneven because of all the tombstones; these were placed inside the church by those who could afford to pay for the space.

    Thanks for Reading!

    I hope you found this information about Riddarholmen Church useful, as well as the fascinating history behind the church!

    Have you visited the church or have any questions? Let me know in the comments.

    Stockholm Travel Guide
    Sweden Travel Guide
  • Hurtigruten, Kirkenes, Museums, World War II

    Andersgrotta, the Bomb Shelter Beneath Kirkenes

    Andersgrotta, the Bomb Shelter Beneath Kirkenes

    Kirkenes, a small town located about 10km (6 mi) from the Russian border, is a fascinating place to visit. It is the turning point of Norway’s Coastal Ferry (Hurtigruten & Havila), so it is easily accessible for visitors to Norway. The town itself is very sleepy today, so it’s hard to imagine that during World War II it was one of the most important places for the Nazis in their fight against the Soviets. In fact, Kirkenes is the most bombed place in Europe after Malta.

    There are two attractions in town that cover World War II history. The first is the Grenseland Museum, located a little ways out of town and covering more the history of border relations between Norway, Finland and Russia, and the second is the Andersgrotta bunker, a complex system of tunnels beneath the town itself. Andersgrotta is offered as an excursion on the Coastal Ferry but it is also possible to visit it yourself while visiting the town.

    Here’s an overview of why Andersgrotta is significant as well as what you can see on your visit.

    In this article...

    Norway's Coastal Ferry

    Kirkenes is a port of call of Norway’s coastal ferry. Find my guide for the coastal ferry by clicking the link below. 

    Norway's Coastal Ferry
    Kirkenes Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Be sure to check out our Kirkenes travel guide! Here you can find all our recommendations of things to do and see, including our self-guided road-trips. 

    Kirkenes During World War II

    After Norway was occupied by Nazis, Kirkenes became a strategic town due to its proximity to the Soviet Union. Its importance increased when Operation Barbarossa put Kirkenes right on the front lines. Additionally, Murmansk is an ice-free harbour and one of the only ones with access to the ocean, and the Allies were sending ships there to keep the Russians well-stocked to push the Nazis out of St. Petersburg and Russia. The Nazis used Kirkenes as a base to bomb these ships but also try and invade the Soviet Union. Because of these attacks, Kirkenes was bombed more than 300 times, while air raid alarms were held more than 1000 times.

    History of Kirkenes

    Andersgrotta Bunker

    This is the largest bomb shelter in Kirkenes. It was built in 1941 to protect the civilians of Kirkenes from the repeated bombings of the war. Because of the air quality, people couldn’t stay all night but would come down every time there was an alarm. Babies were born here, livestock was kept here, and people just did everything they could to survive. In total, the shelter had enough room for 2500 people. Somehow they survived down there – though it still remains a bit of a mystery.

    After the war, Kirkenes was left in ruins. These bunkers became places where people could live while waiting for their home to be built. This took a while as there aren’t many trees in Northern Norway, so much of the timber had to be imported from the south. Many of the civilians also used the caves out at the mines, approximately 10km from town. Andersgrotta was never used for mining; it is purposely built as a bomb shelter.

    Visiting Andersgrotta

    To get inside, you go down a staircase under the Norwegian flag. It is very cold inside – around 0C – and the air feels musty and damp. You hear dripping water everywhere. There is electrical lighting in there today, but during the war there was no electricity, plumbing, or ventilation systems. During the Cold War all of these were added in. You see one of the air vents when you go to the Russian monument.

    Andersgrotta

    First your guide will show you a selection of images of Kirkenes from before and after the war, explaining the destruction that took place here.

    Next you will sit down and watch a 10 minute documentary that explains what happens in Kirkenes during the war. It includes fictional footage (acting of life in Kirkenes) but also documentary footage of the Nazis, the bombing, and the Soviet Union liberating Kirkenes.

    After the movie you have a chance to walk around. The complex consists of several corridors which lead to a number of exits.

    Outside Attractions

    Andersgrotta

    Guided tours include a visit to the Russian monument that sits on top of Andersgrotta. It may seem a bit surreal to have a monument to a Russian soldier in Kirkenes, but the town was liberated by the Soviets and has maintained a close, positive relationship with the Russians ever since.

    The monument is from 1951 and shows a Red Army soldier standing on a plinth. Originally the soldier was trampling a German eagle under his foot, as a symbol of the Soviet Union’s victory over Nazi Germany, but the political climate changed and the eagle was replaced with a rock shortly before the statue was unveiled.

    Book Your Tour of Andersgrotta

    Andersgrotta is managed by Snowhotel Kirkenes. Andersgrotta is open to the public daily at 12:30pm – you can buy tickets at the entrance or on the Snowhotel website. Otherwise, other times are only available via private tour. These are booked through Snowhotel Kirkenes: https://www.snowhotelkirkenes.com/andersgrotta

    Here is the Hurtigruten excursion to Andersgrotta: https://www.hurtigruten.com.au/excursions/norway/7a-the-norwegian-border/

    Here is the Havila excursion to Andersgrotta: https://www.havilavoyages.com/excursions/the-russian-border

    It is easy to walk here. The entrance is approximately 250 metres from the town centre, though it is not marked with signs.

    Norway's Coastal Ferry

    Kirkenes is a port of call of Norway’s coastal ferry. Find my guide for the coastal ferry by clicking the link below. 

    Norway's Coastal Ferry
    Kirkenes Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Be sure to check out our Kirkenes travel guide! Here you can find all our recommendations of things to do and see, including our self-guided road-trips. 

  • Roskilde

    The UNESCO World Heritage-Listed Roskilde Cathedral

    The UNESCO World Heritage-Listed Roskilde Cathedral

    The little town of Roskilde, located approximately 30km from Copenhagen, is one of the most popular day-trips from the capital for visitors. And understandably so: Roskilde is the old capital of Denmark and is known for its Viking past. The town is also known for Roskilde Cathedral, one of the most important cathedrals in Europe.

    But what makes this cathedral so important? After all, it can’t really compete with large cathedrals in France, Italy and other major European countries. What makes Roskilde Cathedral important is two things: it has been the royal burial church of Denmark since the 15th century, and it is a mix of 850 years of European architecture. For those two reasons, it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The architectural styles stretch from Scandinavian Gothic right through to Romanesque, Renaissance, and Baroque. The cathedral was also one of the first buildings in Denmark to be built of brick, and it encouraged the spread of brick Gothic style throughout Northern Europe.

    If you are visiting Roskilde for the day, it’s impossible to miss Roskilde Cathedral. The cathedral itself is massive and visible from almost anywhere in town. It is also centrally located and on the path down to the Viking Ship Museum (another popular attraction).

    Is it worth visiting? Of course. I think you need to be into royal or architectural history to fully appreciate the cathedral, though. Otherwise it may feel like “just another European cathedral”.

    Here’s an overview of what makes Roskilde Cathedral so special as well as what to expect when you visit.

    In this article...

    Roskilde Travel Guide
    Denmark Travel Guide

    Historical Overview of Roskilde Cathedral

    The first church in Roskilde

    The town of Roskilde, located at the end of the Roskilde Fjord, was founded by King Harald Bluetooth (yes, that bluetooth) around the year 960. To celebrate the founding of the town, King Harald built a wooden stave church on a hill overlooking the fjord. This would become the site of Roskilde Cathedral. Nothing remains of the wooden church today.

    Roskilde eventually became the seat of the Bishop of Roskilde, though it is not known exactly when. It was likely around the time Christianity came to Denmark; the conversion started around the time the Danish Sweyn Forkbeard conquered England in 1013 as he started sending bishops to Denmark.

    Conversion to a Stone Church

    After Roskilde became the seat of the Bishop, the town began to grow in importance for the new Catholic religion spreading across the country.

    The stone church was eventually rebuilt under the orders of Estrid Svendsdatter, the daughter of Sweyn Forkbeard. The stone church was built of travertine, which is commonly found in the Roskilde Fjord, and the style was in the Romanesque, though construction did stop halfway under Bishop Absalon of Roskilde.

    Bishop Absalon marked on the walls

    Bishop Absalon is well-known in Danish history as he is the bishop who founded Copenhagen (known as ‘Havn’ or ‘The Harbour’) as a market town. Absalon started work on the cathedral in 1157, tearing down the travertine cathedral in favour of brick. The cathedral lost many of its Romanesque details in favour of the new incoming Gothic style from France. The cathedral became the first brick Gothic cathedral to be built in Europe and inspired the construction of many others like it.

    With the completion of Roskilde Cathedral around 1280, the town became the religious centre of Denmark. At least 12 churches stood in the town during the Catholic period.

    Becoming a Monarchs Church

    When Queen Margrethe I died in 1414, she was originally buried in her family’s chapel at Sorø Klosterkirke. However, the following year bishop Peder Jensen Lodehat, who had been the queens chandellor and religious advisor, brought her to Roskilde Cathedral. This is considered to be the beginning of the use of the cathedral as a mausoleum.

    It’s worth noting that Margrethe I is one of the most important people in Scandinavian history as she united the three countries into one kingdom called the Kalmar Union, which lasted from 1397 until 1523, when Sweden broke away from the union.

    In 1443, the capital moved to Copenhagen in an attempt to compete with the Hanseatic League for trade on the Baltic Sea. Around the same time, Roskilde was hit by a bad fire. The cathedral was damaged and reconstruction took decades due to funding.

    King Christian I, in an attempt to breathe new life into the cathedral, decided to build a chapel attached to the cathedral to be buried in.

    The Reformation

    The Reformation marked a negative turn for Roskilde Cathedral. When Denmark went from being Catholic to Protestant, all church possessions were put under the ownership of the King. Roskilde Cathedral had to give up all the land it owned, all its possessions, and many of the old chapels attached to the cathedral were torn down. The cathedral was opened up to the ordinary congregation and pews were put in.

    King Christian IV saw potential of the cathedral and put money into restoring it, including adding the altarpiece, a royal box, a pulpit, twin spires, a grand Renaissance entrance portal, and his own burial chapel.

    The Royal Mausoleum

    Having the old chapels be torn down during the Reformation proved to be good for the cathedral as it made space for the royals to start constructing their own chapels. With only one exception since the Reformation, all the Danish Kings and Queens have been buried at the cathedral. The cathedral clearly remained important to the monarch, even though Roskilde’s importance declined.

    Even though the cathedral underwent changes, the monarchs were still buried there.

    Highlights of the Cathedral

    If the history of the cathedral didn’t convince you that you need to visit, let me try with some of the highlights! I will admit that I am interested in both Danish monarch history and European architecture, so I spent a lot of time in the cathedral. I may be a little biased here. But I do think it is a fascinating place to walk around.

    I won’t write about every little detail as that gets boring in a blog article, but here are some highlights.

    Cathedral Guidebook

    When you enter the cathedral and pay the admission fee, the staff will give you a free book full of details about the cathedral. The book has way more details than I can provide here, so, rather than explain everything inside the cathedral, I’ll mention some of the places not to miss.

    I will say that the books order of information goes chronologically and doesn’t necessarily fit the layout of the cathedral. It can be a little confusing to get between points, which is why a guided tour may be better. Still, you can figure it out and get a lot of information.

    I do wish the books had more information on how each monarch was important to Denmark, but maybe that’s something I can write later! They do have signs in front of the coffins, though.

    The Nave

    You will first step into the nave, of course. There is so much to see just in here alone. A highlight is Christian IV’s private box as well as the 17th century pulpit made of marble, alabaster, and stone.

    You will likely head to the choir first (it is one of the first markers in the guidebook) to see Margrethe I.

    The Choir

    In the choir is Margrethe I’s sarcophagus. Don’t miss the graphic 15th century choir stall carvings. Legend says that buried in a nearby brick pilaster are the supposed remains of King Harald Bluetooth.

    These are the information signs about each monarch

    I loved seeing all the artwork that has been uncovered on the walls.

    Christian I's Chapel

    The chapel was the first add-on built specifically for a monarch. This chapel holds the magnificent Renaissance tombs of Christian III (died in 1559) and Frederik II (died in 1588). The chapels founder, Christian I, is credited with helping reconstruction of the cathedral after the fire in 1443. He died in 1481 and is buried in a small chamber under the floor alongside queen Dorothea. The chapels vaults are richly decorated with frescos dating from the 1460s when the chapel was created by Christian I and his wife. They were whitewashed over but rediscovered in 1826.

    The chapel also features the Royal Column, which shows the height of princes who visited the cathedral, including Peter the Great and Prince Charles.  I had no clue what I was looking at when I took the picture!

    Christian IV's Chapel

    This was the chapel I was most excited to see, but I’ve always been a fan of Christian IV.

    Christian IV’s chapel is one of the most spectacular rooms in the cathedral and is a classic example of Christian IV. He is one of Denmark’s most notorious kings, taking the country through a Golden Age and constructing many of the prominent buildings in Copenhagen. He also moved the city of Oslo west and renamed it after himself. His chapel is a true testament to how highly he was thought of (and how highly he thought of himself!).

    The chapel dates from approximately 1620, although the interior work was not completed until as late as 1866. Christian IV died in 1648 after being on the throne for almost 60 years, the longest reign of ay Danish monarch. His chapel has his coffin as well as those of his first wife, Anne Catherine of Brandenburg, his second son, who became King Frederik III, and Frederik’s consort, Sophie Amalie of Brunswick-Luneberg.

    The chapel is designed in his favourite architectural style, Dutch Renaissance (be sure to look at it from the outside too and you’ll see it looks like Børsen in Copenhagen). Much of the work on the chapel has been done in the 19th century, though, when Christian VIII wanted to honour Christian IV a little better.

    The setting includes overly dramatic paintings of Christian’s life. The one of Christian IV wearing an eye patch is made as a 3D painting. The statue of the king is made by Bertel Thorvaldsen, the famous Danish sculptor.

    Frederik V'S Chapel

    This chapel is designed in the neoclassical style. Construction began in 1774, taking inspiration from Rome, and it was inaugurated in 1825. The white maidens represent Denmark and Norway and are dressed in Greek gowns.

    Christian IX's Chapel

    This chapel was constructed in 1919 and completed in 1924. It was built in the Byzantine Revival style with a Roman inspiration. In the northern arm is the sarcophagus of Christian IX and Queen Louise. Surrounding the sarcophagus are three statues of female figures named “grief”, “memory” and “love”. They are Carrara marble from Italy. The sculptor was Edvard Eriksen, who also did “The Little Mermaid” in Copenhagen (Grief looks just like the famous mermaid statue).

    Saint Andrews & Saint Brigittas Chapels

    These two chapels are the only remnants of the many medieval chapels that would’ve been attached to the original cathedral. St. Andrews Chapel dates to 1396, while St. Brigitta’s is from 1485. St. Andrews Chapel has pre-Reformation frescoes from 1511 inside.

    St. Brigitta’s has been restored to house the tomb of the current queen, Margrethe II. It was intended to hold both Margrethe and her late husband, Henrik, but he chose instead to have his remains at Fredensborg Castle – in protest for never been given the title of King). The queen teamed up with an artist to design her own tomb (there’s a model on display). Her body will reside in the stepped area at the bottom, which stand three columns: one made of basalt from the Faroe Islands, another made of marble from Greenland, and the third of stone from Denmark.

    Visiting Roskilde Cathedral

    The Cathedral is about a 15 minute walk from Roskilde station and is clearly marked with signs (though you will see the towers very well).

    Roskilde Cathedral is free with the Copenhagen card.

    The Cathedral is open throughout the year, but keep in mind that it will close for weddings and special events. You can view their current opening houses on the website by clicking here.

    Have you visited Roskilde Cathedral? Let me know in the comments!

    Roskilde Travel Guide
    Denmark Travel Guide
  • Culture & Everyday Life, Norway

    Norwegian Christmas Traditions

    Norwegian Christmas Traditions

    Many think that December will be this dark, quiet, and depressing month, but it is quite the opposite. In fact, it is one of the most lively and colourful months of the year. This is thanks to Christmas and how excited people get for the holiday seasons. The cities and towns are often decorated for Christmas by the end of November. The trees and buildings are decorated with lights, the churches have regular Christmas concerts, and the larger cities will have a Christmas market.

    In this article...

    Historic Overview

    “Jul” is the Nordic word for Christmas. It comes from the Norse “Jòlnir”, which is an alternative name for Odin. It was celebrated during the second moon of the winter half of the year. The animals for slaughter were the fattest, flour had been processed, all the autumn work was complete, so it was time to celebrate. Traditions varied, but the farmers would have a beer drinking party. The tradition of drinking is symbolised by a drinking horn on the 25th of December on the Runic calendar, with an upside-down drinking horn depicted on the 13th of January, indicating the beer should be finished by then. The nisse is a mythological character associated with the Winter solstice, and it has become a figure of the modern day Santa Claus.

    It All Starts with the Julebord

    Julebord is the first sign of Christmas. The word directly translates to Christmas table and it is where companies, organisations and groups of friends gather to have a Christmas party. They often book a table at a restaurant, making it very difficult to find a spot for dinner throughout December. If you are visiting in December, book your table very early! We tried to get a table in Bergen in the first week of December and everything was booked out.

    The First Sunday of Advent

    The beginning of Christmas is typically marked with the first Sunday of Advent. Many houses will have a star-shaped lamp in their window called the “Julestjerne”. The first Sunday of Advent is also the lighting of the first of four purple candles called “Adventslys”. There are songs and poems written for each of the four Sundays of Advent. Traditionally the candles were purple, but now they use any colour. Click here to see the Advent candles on Mt. Floyen in Bergen.

    Advent calendars are super popular in Norway and every company imaginable will make an advent calendar. Another popular thing to do is make a gingerbread house, or “pepperkakehus”. Kits are sold in supermarkets, stencils are sold in kitchen shops, or you can make the whole thing from scratch. Bergen has the world’s largest gingerbread village, which is made by kids from all the local schools.

    Each Sunday leading up to Christmas is celebrated with lighting of the candles, choirs, and community gatherings.

    Lille Julaften (23 December)

    Then comes the 23rd of December, which is known as “Lille Julaften” or “Little Christmas Eve”. Many families will have a small tradition together, whether it be decorating the Christmas tree, making a gingerbread house, or reading risengrynsgrøt. That is a hot rice pudding served with sugar, cinnamon, and butter. An almond is hidden in the pudding and if you get it in your portion, you win a marzipan pig! For the travellers, you can go to any supermarket and buy a marzipan pig. The 23rd is also when you decorate the Christmas tree. This tradition isn’t as common as it used to be, with many opting to decorate earlier like in other countries, but traditionally in Norway the tree was decorated on the 23rd.

    A common show to watch in Norway on Little Christmas Eve is Grevinnen og Hovmesteren, Dinner for One. It’s a British sketch comedy. The German television station Norddeutscher Rundfunk recorded an 18-minute performance of the show in 1953 and it eventually became the most repeated TV program of all time. The sketch depicts the 90th birthday of Miss Sophie, who hosts a yearly dinner for her friends. Due to her old age, she has outlived them all, so her butler James impersonates and drinks instead of each of the guests. As he goes around the table, James gets noticeably drunk, and repeatedly asks Miss Sophie: “The same procedure as last year, Miss Sophie?” to which she responds, “the same procedure as every year, James!”.

    The Norwegian TV station NRK has been broadcasting the 11-minute Swiss version every 23rd of December since 1980.

    https://youtu.be/eaFFywm18P8

    Julaften (Christmas Eve)

    Christmas Eve, or the 24th of December, is the main day for Christmas in Norway. It is known as “Julaften” or “Christmas Eve”. In the morning some may attend church service while others will be out shopping for last minute Christmas presents. At around 5pm families gather for their traditional Christmas dinner, and the presents are opened afterwards. This is marked by church bells ringing around the country.

    Presents are delivered by the “Julenisse”, which is the Norwegian version of Santa. Before that, though, they must dance around the Christmas tree and sing traditional carols. The “Sølvguttene” or “Silver Boys Choir” appear on television for their annual concert, and at 5pm the church bells ring throughout the cities to announce the official start of the holiday. The most famous song to sing while dancing around the tree is Så går vi rundt om en enebaerbusk meaning “here we go round a mulberry bush”.

    https://youtu.be/9kgfwaiKr00

    On television, NRK shows Three Gifts for Cinderella. It has been shown every year since 1975. It has become a holiday classic in Norway even if it isn’t a typical Christmas movie. The movie is based on Bozena Nemcova’s version of Cinderella, with a feminist approach in which the prince actively pursues the skilled hunter Cinderella before she falls under his charm.

    https://youtu.be/aA0D57uIZ_0

    In almost every store in Norway you’ll see a julenisse in some form. They are a common thing to buy in December. They are also used to decorate the milk cartons for the month of December.

    If you are in Norway on the 24th of December, expect it to be dead quiet with many restaurants, pubs and shops closing.

    Christmas Day

    The 25th of December is a quiet day to spend with your family. Kids will typically watch the Norwegian movie “The Journey to the Christmas Star” or one of the American Christmas movies. Rice porridge is served at midday.

    Romjul

    The days between Christmas Eve and New Years Eve are also very quiet, and some shops will remain closed until the 27th of December. Norwegians typically use this time to hike, ski, or visit family and friends. There is more activity in the city centre with locals choosing to go out to dinner. The Norwegians have a word for this period – romjul. There’s no English translation, but it basically means “that time between Christmas and New Year when no one is really sure what they should be doing”.

    Norwegian Christmas traditions

     

    The Julebukk or “Yule Goat” is a goat made out of straw that is created at the beginning of December to be used as a Christmas ornament. Its oldest representation is that of Thor’s magical goats, which would lead him through the night sky. The Julebukk was also a spirit that would protect the house over the Christmas period and it was tradition to sacrifice a goat to the Gods during the time span between the Winter Solstice and the New Year. After the goat was sacrificed, adults then donned guises to personify the Julebukk. Animal masks and skins were donned in an activity called “hoodening”. Participants would parent from house to house, disguising their voices, singing and offering spiritual protection. They would receive small amounts of money, food and drink in exchange for their blessing. This tradition doesn’t exist today, but it is common to see the Julebukk hanging outside doors.

    Enjoy Christmas in Norway!

    This guide should help you plan your trip to Norway well. Embrace the holiday season and try to take part in as many Christmas activities as possible.

    Let me know in the comments if you have been in Norway during Christmas and have any tips!

  • Culture & Everyday Life, Foodies Guide, Norway

    The Most Popular Norwegian Christmas Foods

    The Most Popular Norwegian Christmas Foods

    Visiting Norway in December? You have to try some Norwegian Christmas foods! Christmas in Norway is a huge celebration and many choose to celebrate through their food choices. Many restaurants will switch to Christmas menus for the months of November, December and January, giving you plenty of opportunity to try classic dishes.

    Here are the most common foods to try in Norway over Christmas.

    In this article...

    Ribbe

    Click here for an image and recipe.

    Typically, meat is eaten at Christmas. In older times meat was expensive so was reserved for special occasions (such as Christmas). It was also common to eat the entire animal and not let anything go to waste, so be prepared for some stranger meat options further down.

    “Ribbe”, or “ribs”, is the most popular Christmas eve dinner all over the country. The ribs are typically pork and it is commonly eaten with sauerkraut, red cabbage, patties, sausages and potatoes. The dish became popular at the end of the 18th century when potatoes came to Norway and then it became more common to eat pork. Before that, pigs were not common because the feed was similar to human diet, so raising pigs was seen as wasteful. The potato solved this problem and paved the way for ribbe.

    Pinnekjøtt

    Norwegian Christmas foods

    Click here for a recipe.

    “Pinnekjøtt” is the most popular Christmas Eve dinner in Western Norway. The word literally means “stick meat” and is racks of lamb or mutton cured in brine or sea salt. It has a unique flavour that comes with the preservation methods of curing, drying and smoking. The technique is developed from the same method used to dry fish. You will see it in supermarkets but also at any Norwegian restaurant in cities like Bergen on the west coast.

    Smalahove

    Click here for pictures and a recipe.

    If you are feeling brave you can try “smalahove”. It is a sheeps head, and it is rather literal. To create it, the skin and fleece of the head is torched, then the brain is removed, the head is seasoned with salt and then air-dried. The head is boiled until cooked. It was originally associated with the lower classes in Norwegian society and is more common in western parts of Norway. Some restaurants on the west coast do serve the full head, though you need to share it amongst multiple people.

    Lutefisk

    Click here for a recipe.

    “Lutefisk” is THE Christmas dish. Lutefisk is made by mixing lye of potash and water and then soaking dried cod (stockfish) in it. Some claim it has a strong, pungent odour, but I think they’ve never had good lutefisk before. It is not smelly or slimy like people will tell you. I’ve been told so many times by people from the Mid-West that lutefisk is slimy, but it isn’t! I get it every year at Bryggeloftet in Bergen and find it very similar to eating regular cod. It is typically served with crispy bacon on top, making it even better.

    It has been a popular dish since the 16th century when it was a common Catholic dish. Meat was always considered expensive, so it was reserved for special dinners (such as Christmas). You will find it at any traditional Norwegian restaurant or can take a look at a supermarket in the fresh seafood section.

    Risengrynsgrøt

    Click here for pictures and a recipe (in Norwegian)

    “Risengrynsgrøt” is a hot rice pudding and is one of the more traditional dishes. In fact, in Norwegian folklore it is what the “fjøsnissen” barn gnome eats. The Fjøsnissen was a mischievous and slightly sinister character that was important when Norway was a farming community. You must stay friends with him; if he was treated well, the farm would be prosperous. If he got unhappy, bad things could happen such as him striking the dairy cattle dead. In the countryside, many people put a bowl or risengrynsgrøt and juleøl out for the barn gnome to eat. In Northern Norway, many prefer to have cloudberry cream instead.

    Kransekake & Krumkake

    Both are popular cakes over Christmas. You can buy miniature Kransekake in supermarkets, and you can also get Krumkake. Some pancake stalls at Christmas markets will sell Krumkake too.

    Click here for a kransekake recipe and click here for a krumkake recipe.

    Gløgg

    “Gløgg” is the most popular drink to have over Christmas. It is a warm, spicy drink like the German Glühwein. It can be made with red wine, but most Norwegians prefer the non-alcoholic version you can get in a supermarket. The Christmas markets often have gløgg, but it’s not so common at restaurants or pubs.

    Both are popular cakes over Christmas. You can buy miniature Kransekake in supermarkets, and you can also get Krumkake. Some pancake stalls at Christmas markets will sell Krumkake too.

    Click here for a kransekake recipe and click here for a krumkake recipe.

    Juleøl

    It is possible to buy “juleøl” or “Christmas Beer” over the holiday period. They are typically released by the major beer companies.

    Click here to see the “Best in Test” Christmas beers of 2022.

    Julebrus

    The most popular drink over Christmas is most definitely “julebrus”, or “Christmas soda”. Each drinks company makes its own and claims to be the best, though locals argue about which julebrus is better: the brown coloured julebrus or the red coloured julebrus. Every year the local newspaper will rank julebrus. Here is the “Best in Test” for this year.

    Akevitt

    It is also common to drink “akevitt”, the Norwegian liqueur, on Christmas. Many brands will release a special Christmas edition of the akevitt.

    Pepperkake

    “Pepperkake” is the Norwegian cousin to the gingerbread cookie. Many parents bake them with their children, but every supermarket will sell them.

    Click here for a Pepperkake recipe.

    Marzipan
    Marzipan figures are super popular at this time of year and can be bought in any supermarket. Most popular is the marzipan pig.

    Enjoy Christmas!

    Hopefully this will help you plan your trip to Norway over the Christmas period. Be sure to try some Norwegian Christmas foods! Let me know in the comments if you have tried any of these foods or have any recommendations.