Emma

Hey! My name is Emma. I'm from Australia but have lived in Bergen, Norway, for the last eight years. I work as a local guide and tour leader for all over Northern Europe. The Hidden North is an online travel guide I have made to help you plan your own visit here.

  • Visiting the Vigeland Park in Oslo

    Visiting the Vigeland Park in Oslo

    No trip to Oslo is complete without a visit to the Vigeland Sculpture Park. After all, it is the most visited attraction in Norway, attracting up to two million visitors a year. The images of the various sculptures under different light and different seasons cover the tourist brochures, and Instagram is full of people posing outside their favourite statue.

    But what is the park? Is it worth visiting? Let’s discuss the history of importance of the park first, and then we’ll look into the practical information.

    In this article...

    What is the Vigeland Park?

    The Vigeland Sculpture Park is a permanent collection of sculptures made by Gustav Vigeland between 1924 and 1943. The park is around 43 hectares and the sculpture garden is the world’s largest sculpture park made by a single artist. It is listed on the Heritage Act as the first park in Norway.

    History of the Park

    Frogner Park

    The name of the park is not Vigeland park but Frogner Park; the name Vigeland Park is commonly used by tourists, while the correct name Frogner Park is used by locals.

    In the 18th century this was the private property of General Hans Jacob Scheel, who lived at Frogner Manor. He had the land landscaped into a baroque park. In the 19th century, industrialist Benjamin Wegner took over and landscaped it into a romantic park.

    Frogner Manor still stands today and is now the Oslo City Museum. The building is impressive and worth taking a look at; it is in the Danish country house style and goes back to the 1750s.

    Wegner also had some buildings built around the property. The pavilion was built on the nearby height ‘Utsikten’ (The View) and he also had the coachman house built at the main gate in front of the manor house. The pavilion is worth seeing; the ceiling is impressively painted to resemble the Pantheon in Rome.

    Becoming Vigeland's Park

    After Norway’s independence in 1905, Oslo underwent major expansion and many farms were bought so apartments could be built. Large parts of Frogner Estate were sold so the city could expand. The remaining estate was bought by the municipality so it could be made into a public park for sports and recreation.

    The land was given to Gustav Vigeland in the 1920s and has been known as the Vigeland Park ever since it became open to the public in the 1940s.

    Vigeland Park Children

    Who Was Gustav Vigeland?

    Gustav Vigeland (1869 – 1943) was born as Adolf Gustav Thorsen into a family of craftsmen. While he initially went to school in Oslo to learn wood carving, the sudden death of his father meant that he had to go and live with his grandparents in the south of Norway. They lived on a farm called Mjunebrokka in Vigeland parish, and Gustav decided to change his name to represent this farm.

    Fun fact – Gustav Vigeland’s brother, Emanuel Vigeland, is a well-known artist and has a number of works around the city, including inside Oslo Cathedral.

    As an adult, Gustav returned to Oslo with the goal of becoming a sculptor. He got the attention of Brynjulf Bergslien and then spent several years travelling through Copenhagen, Paris, Berlin and Florence. In Paris he became greatly inspired by Auguste Rodin and frequented his workshop, while in Italy he experimented with ancient and Renaissance works. During this time the themes that would later dominate his inspiration – death and relationships – first appeared.

    Gustav returned to Norway and participated in the restoration of Nidaros Cathedral in Trondheim. There he became inspired by medieval works, especially the dragon as a symbol of sin but also as a nature force, fighting against man.

    Establishing his studio in Oslo

    Once back in Oslo, he settled in an abandoned studio and began working. After Norway’s independence in 1905, he was regarded as Norway’s best sculptor and began creating various statues and busts of renowned Norwegians like Henrik Ibsen.

    In 1921 the city of Oslo decided to demolish the studio where Vigeland was working. After some negotiations, Vigeland was granted a new building from where he could work. In return, he promised to donate all of his subsequent works to the city. Vigeland moved into his new studio in Frogner and spent the rest of his life dedicated to building the public park.

    Gustav lived and worked in his studio until his death in 1942. His ashes are still in the belfry of the building, which is on Nobels gate. The building where he worked became the Vigeland Museum, and his apartment on the third floor is still preserved.

    What to see in Vigeland Park

    The Main Gate

    The Main Gate consists of five large gates, two small pedestrian gates and two copper-roofed gates, both adorned with weather vanes. The gate was designed in 1926 and was financed by a Norwegian bank.

    The Bridge

    The Bridge was the first part to open to the public in the 1940s. The bridge is 100m (328ft) long, 15m (49ft) wide and connects the Main Gate to the Fountain. Along the bridge are 58 sculptures. The most famous sculpture, Angry Boy, is located here. At the end of the bridge you’ll find a woman being embraced by a dragon, while the man is fighting it. Vigeland wasn’t exactly a feminist; these sculptures represent a woman giving into sin while a man fighting against it.

    Vigeland Park Angry Boy

    The Fountain

    The fountain was originally supposed to be at Eidsvolls Plass in front of the parliament of Norway. There are 60 bronze reliefs around the lower part of the fountain, and these follow the circle of life. If you look at the fountain, you’ll see that the men are holding up the bowl at various difficulties, i.e. some are doing a lot of work while others are doing not much at all. This represents that life can be unfair and not everyone shares equal responsibility.

    Be sure to look down – the ground is black and white granite designed as a maze. It’s very popular with kids.

    Vigeland Park Fountain

    The Rose Garden

    Vigeland Park has the largest collection of roses in Norway, with 14,000 plants and 150 species. Many of them can be seen here.

    Vigeland Park Rose Garden

    The Monolith

    The Monolith Plateau is a platform north of the park. There are 36 groups of figures around the monolith, representing a ‘circle of life’ theme.

    Around the plateau you’ll find eight wrought iron gates; on one side all the figures are men, while on the other side they are women.

    The Monolith is the highest point in the park. Construction began in 1924 when Gustav Vigeland modelled it in clay inside his studio. The design process took ten months, after which the model was cast in plaster.

    In 1927, a singular block of granite from Halden was delivered to the studio. It took three masons fourteen years to carve the granite. The Monolith is 14.12 metres (46.32ft) high and is composed of 121 human figures rising slowly towards the sky.

    Vigeland Park Monolith

    The Sundial

    At the end of the installation is a sundial, forged in 1930, and the Wheel of Life sculpture.

    The Sculptures

    Vigeland Park Sculpture Detail

    Gustav Vigeland famously said “it’s only when you put clothes on people that you start defining their religion or where they are from. When you are naked you can be anyone, anywhere at any time”. For this reason, all the statues are naked.

    The goal of the sculptures is to depict life in all its strange and wonderful forms. They depict people engaging in various typically human pursuits, such as wrestling, dancing, hugging and holding hands. They reveal a full range of human emotions, including anger and violence.

    Practical Information

    When is the best time to go?

    The park gets very busy between around 11am and 3pm, so if you want a bit more peace and quiet I recommend going outside of these hours.

    How long should I spend there?

    You’ll need at least one hour to walk around the Vigeland portion of the park; more time if you want to see Frogner Park. If you want to visit the museums as well, I recommend 2-3 hours here.

    Do I need a tour guide?

    In a way, yes. There is no written information about the sculptures, and while the sculptures are meant to be interpreted by the viewer, the tour guides do an excellent job of explaining the thought process behind the sculptures, the troubled life of Gustav Vigeland, and why the park is laid out like this.

    How do I get there?

    • Take Tram 12 from Dronningens gate (or whichever stop is closest to you). Follow the tram towards Majorstuen and ride for 12 minutes (8 stops) until you reach Vigelandsparken. The stop is right outside the park.
      • To get back to the city, take Tram 12 towards Kjelås
    • You can take the metro lines 1, 2, or 5 from Central Station to the stop ‘Majorstuen’, and from there it’s a 15 minute walk to the park.

  • Drive it Yourself: From the Lyngen Alps to Tromsø on the E6

    Drive it Yourself: From the Lyngen Alps to Tromsø on the E6

    The Lyngen Alps are described as the ‘Mecca’ for skiiers and hikers all over the world, with many dreaming of coming here just to make the most of the incredible downhill slopes. For those of us who aren’t here to ski, Lyngen is a gorgeous region perfect for a short vacation.

    We spent the night in the Lyngen region towards the end of our North Norwegian road-trip. For us, we chose it simply because it was roughly halfway between where we were (Hammerfest) and where we had to be (Tromsø). We found an adorable AirBNB overlooking the Alps and had a nice rest before finishing the drive.

    Most of this drive takes place on the E6, which also has the nickname ‘the Northern Lights Highway’ up here because of all the roadside stops perfect for viewing the lights. The E6 is the main highway running through Norway and while it is not the most scenic, it is the only way to get between places when you are this far north.

    Here’s an overview of what you can see along the way. 

    In this article...

    Downloadable Version of This Guide

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

    Online Guide

    Downloadable Guide

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    The drive: From the Lyngen Alps to Tromsø on the E6

    The Lyngen Alps

    The Lyngen Alps are a scenic mountain range that stretch 90km (56 mi) along the Lyngen Peninsula, with the Lyngen fjord to the east and the Ullsfjorden to the west.

    The mountains are popular among extreme skiers, with the highest summit being 1,833m (6,014ft) tall. The mountains are also popular with climbers.

    Olderdalen

    Olderdalen is the main centre for the Kåfjord Municipality we are in. The population is around 301 and the town looks out to the Lyngen Alps. If you use ferries, it is only a 70km drive. However, if you follow the E6 it is around 180km. Agriculture and fishing are the main industries.

    Birtavarre

    Birtavarre is a small village with a population of around 215. The village was a former mining town with smelters. It was during the mining period that it took the name Birtavarre; before then, it was known as ‘Kåfjordbotn’ after the fjord. The name Birtavarre comes from the nearby mountain Pirttivaara, which is a Kven language name.

    Manndalen

    Manndalen is a small village with a population of just under 1000. Historically, Manndalen was where the ‘three tribes’ (Kven, Sami, Norwegian) all settled. People began to arrive from Finland in the 1700s and many locals today consider themselves descendants of these people. The area was also used as the summer grazing area for the reindeer herding Sami. Today Manndalen is a centre for the revitalisation of Sea Sami culture and language and now there is a Sami department in the kindergarten and a Sami language centre. The Riddu Riđđu festival is an annual Sami music and culture festival that takes place here.

    The town was destroyed during World War II, and the town was rebuilt with temporary houses. At Sandeng Cemetery near Løkvell is the urn of Jan Baalsrud, a famous World War II resistance hero. He became fond of Manndalen after all the help he received in his escape from the Germans on the way to Sweden. Many locals were active in hiding him, giving him good, and getting him across the border into Sweden.  

    Storfjord

    Storfjord is a municipality in the Troms County of Northern Norway. The name comes from the Storfjorden that runs through the area, while the coat-of-arms shows three poppies that are rotated around a meeting point which represents the meeting point of the three countries Norway, Sweden, and Finland.

    The first peoples to live here were the Sami people. In the 19th century settlers from Finland and Southern Norway began to establish themselves. Sami culture has survived in parts of the municipality. In the 19th century the Laestadianism religious movement obtained a strong position, and Skibotn is still a stronghold for this movement.

    The landscape of Storfjord is characterised by alpine mountains, and the highest mountain is Vassdalsfjellet (1587m), while the most ‘famous’ mountain is Otertind.

    Skibotn

    Skibotn is a small village with a population of 538 located at the end of the Lyngen fjord and close to Kilpisjarvi in Finland. The residents of the village are either descendants of the Sami and Kven people or the Norwegian immigrants who came in the 19th century.

    Historically, Skibotn was a meeting point and market for the different ethnic groups in the area. The market still takes place today and is named ‘Skibotn markedsplass’ if you want to visit.

    Skibotn is the place in Norway that has registered the clearest days and it is one of the driest places in Norway. Because of the lack of clouds, there is an astrophysical observatory located in Skibotn.

    Kilpisjarvi

    In Skibotn you’ll pass the E8, which takes you into Finland and the town of Kilpisjarvi. Kilpisjarvi is one of the best places to see the northern lights because of its clear skies. We cover Kilpisjarvi and that drive in a separate article. 

    Balsfjord Municipality

    Balsfjord is a municipality in the Troms County of Northern Norway. The coat-of-arms depicts a yellow plough on a red background, symbolising the importance of agriculture in the municipality. The plough also symbolises that the municipality is at the northernmost border on which grain can be grown in Norway. No other area in Troms has so much cultivated land. Agriculture is mostly based on milk and meat production and Balsfjord has the highest number of cattle, sheep, and goats among the municipalities in Troms. One of the dairies is the country’s largest goat cheese producer.

    The Sami people were the first people to inhabit the area, but around 1800 new settlers came from Finland and Southern Norway. Today, very few traces of Sami culture survive. From the 18th until the 20th century, trappers from Balsfjord were active in the Arctic, hunting in the areas around Greenland and Svalbard.

    The municipality was home to a religious group of ‘mindekirken’ or ‘freechurch dissenters’ who split from the state church in Tromsø. They were led by a seminary student, Johannes Andreas Johannessen and they established their own church, the Free Apostolic Christian Church, in Balsfjord. Bomstad and his followers were said to have protested against the Tromsø state church minister and Troms Bishop’s religious rulings, eventually leading to a riot in Tromsø. The state church members yelled at Bomstad and his dissenters to “go back to Kautokieno!”. In 1862, Bomstad led a group of colonists to America, arriving into Chicago. After that they went to the area of St. Peter, Minnesota, where they remained. Bomstad left St. Peter and became the founding father of Lake Lillian in Minnesota. After staking his original claim, Bomstad and the rest of the colonists arrived at Lake Lillian and built dugout shelters to live. Eventually they all had log cabins to live in.

    Close to Balsfjord Church are 6000-year-old rock carvings at Tennes.

    Tromsø Municipality

    Tromsø Municipality is a major centre in Northern Norway. The municipality is milder than most settlements on the same latitude dur to the effect of the westerlies reaching this far north as well as the North Atlantic Drift, a branch of the Guld Stream. The population of the entire municipality is around 71,000. A detailed overview of the city of Tromsø can be found on our travel guide. 

    Tromsø

    The final stop is in Tromsø, the largest city in Northern Norway. You can find a detailed guide to Tromsø on our travel guide page. 

    Where to Go From Here

    From Tromsø you can continue your drive south to Narvik or you can head into Finland towards Kilpisjarvi. 

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Drive it Yourself: Honningsvåg to Hammerfest

    Drive it Yourself: Honningsvåg to Hammerfest

    In this article...

    Downloadable Version of This Guide

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

    Online Guide

    Downloadable Guide

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    The drive: Honningsvåg to Hammerfest

    Honningsvåg

    This drive begins in Honningsvåg, the northernmost city in the world. You can find a detailed overview to Honningsvåg via the link below. 

    North Cape Tunnel

    Tunnel

    North Cape Tunnel is an underwater road tunnel that runs between the island of Magerøya and the Norwegian mainland. The total length of the tunnel is 6.8km and it goes 212 metres below sea level. The tunnel opened in 1999, replacing a ferry that used to operate in roughly the same spot.

    The tunnel has cold gates at each end that keep the cold out in the winter. This is done to prevent ice formation in the rock walls, and the gates open automatically when a car is approaching. The gates remain open in the summer.  

    Kåfjord

    Fjord

    Kåfjord is a fjord and small village located just after the tunnel. This is where the ferry used to leave before the tunnel was completed.

    Repvåg

    Village

    Repvåg is a tiny fishing village located on the side of the highway. Historically it was an important fishing and trading place in Finnmark, especially during the Pomor Trade with Russia. Several settlements from the Stone Age have been found here. Today the village only has around 14 residents.

    There is a large beach outside the village called Stranda, which used to have a large coastal Sami population and is the last area in the municipality that is still characterised by some coastal Sami culture. Today only some of the residents speak a Sami language. The beach has a number of important cultural monuments, hunting pits, graves and tufts.

    Hammerfest

    On the right you will pass the right-turn that will take you to the Havøysund Tourist Road, one of Norway’s 18 national tourist roads. That drive has been covered in a separate article, which you can view below. 

    Hammerfest Municipality

    Hammerfest is a large municipality in Northern Norway. The main town is Hammerfest, which is located off the mainland on the island Kvaløya. The coat-of-arms depicts a polar bear, which was chosen as the symbol for fishing in the polar seas in Northern Norway.

    Skaidi

    Village

    Skaidi is a small village and major traffic hub in Northern Norway. In the 1940s, the Skaidi Mountain Lodge and Station was built. Today it’s an important point to stop if you need a rest on the long road journeys.

    Here you’ll find a petrol station, various electric car charging stations, a cafe and a hotel. 

    Repparfjorden

    Fjord

    Repparfjorden is a fjord located southeast of the island Kvaløya, where Hammerfest is. The fjord is quite shallow with an average depth of 40-60 metres and a maximum depth of 123 metres. There are strong currents at the bottom of the fjord.

    Mining used to take place in this area for copper. The deposits were found around the year 1900 and between 1972 and 1978 Folldal Verk (the mine near Røros) ran the operations. More mining is planned in the area, but it is meeting protests by the local community.

    Kvalsund

    Village

    Kvalsund is a small village and former municipality in Finnmark. It was its own municipality until 2020, when it was merged with Hammerfest. The name directly translates to the whale strait, refering to the whaling that used to take place in the area. The name of the island Kvaløya means ‘whale island’.

    The village used to be known as “Finnbyen”, referring to the Coastal Sami settlement in the area. Until a few hundred years ago, the Coast Sami culture was completely dominant in Kvalsund. Norwegian and Kven immigration soon made the area multicultural, and during the ‘Norwegianisation’ process of the late 19th/early 20th century, most of the culture was lost. One of the only villages to still have the Coastal Sami culture is Kokelv.

    Kvalsund is one of the areas in Finnmark county with the most cabins that are especially used by people from Hammerfest. There is good salmon fishing in the fjord and there are nice hiking trails in the area.

    Kvalsund Bridge

    Bridge

    The Kvalsund Bridge is a suspension bridge over the Kvalsundet strait, linking the mainland to the island of Kvaløya. The bridge is 741 metres (2,431 ft) long and has 11 spans. It is the northernmost suspension bridge in the world.

    Rypefjord

    Village

    Rypefjord is a village just outside Hammerfest. The village is considered more of a suburb of Hammerfest because of its proximity to the city. You’ll find a lot of industry here related to the LNG plant just off Hammerfest but also the fishing industry.

    Hammerfest

    We have made it to the city of Hammerfest! Hammerfest is the northernmost city in the world with a population over 10,000 people. The town has an ice-free harbour and is regarded as one of the oldest cities in Northern Norway (along with Vardø). People have been living and trading here for hundreds of years. Hammerfest rose to prominence in the 18th and 19th centuries due to its proximity to the Arctic hunting areas.

    On The Hidden North you’ll find a travel guide for Hammerfest including a detailed historic overview.

    Where to Go From Here

    From Hammerfest you can travel on to Alta or further to the Lyngen Alps, as we did. 

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Drive it Yourself: Hammerfest to the Lyngen Alps

    Drive it Yourself: Hammerfest to the Lyngen Alps

    In this article...

    Downloadable Version of This Guide

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

    Online Guide

    Downloadable Guide

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    The Drive: Hammerfest to the Lyngen Alps

    Hammerfest

    This drive begins in Hammerfest, the northernmost city in the world. You can find a detailed overview to Honningsvåg via the link below. 

    Rypefjord

    Village

    Rypefjord is a village just outside Hammerfest. The village is considered more of a suburb of Hammerfest because of its proximity to the city. You’ll find a lot of industry here related to the LNG plant just off Hammerfest but also the fishing industry.

    Kvalsund Bridge

    Bridge

    The Kvalsund Bridge is a suspension bridge over the Kvalsundet strait, linking the mainland to the island of Kvaløya. The bridge is 741 metres (2,431 ft) long and has 11 spans. It is the northernmost suspension bridge in the world.

    Kvalsund

    Village

    Kvalsund is a small village and former municipality in Finnmark. It was its own municipality until 2020, when it was merged with Hammerfest. The name directly translates to the whale strait, refering to the whaling that used to take place in the area. The name of the island Kvaløya means ‘whale island’.

    The village used to be known as “Finnbyen”, referring to the Coastal Sami settlement in the area. Until a few hundred years ago, the Coast Sami culture was completely dominant in Kvalsund. Norwegian and Kven immigration soon made the area multicultural, and during the ‘Norwegianisation’ process of the late 19th/early 20th century, most of the culture was lost. One of the only villages to still have the Coastal Sami culture is Kokelv.

    Kvalsund is one of the areas in Finnmark county with the most cabins that are especially used by people from Hammerfest. There is good salmon fishing in the fjord and there are nice hiking trails in the area.

    Repparfjorden

    Fjord

    Repparfjorden is a fjord located southeast of the island Kvaløya, where Hammerfest is. The fjord is quite shallow with an average depth of 40-60 metres and a maximum depth of 123 metres. There are strong currents at the bottom of the fjord.

    Mining used to take place in this area for copper. The deposits were found around the year 1900 and between 1972 and 1978 Folldal Verk (the mine near Røros) ran the operations. More mining is planned in the area, but it is meeting protests by the local community.

    Skaidi

    Village

    Skaidi is a small village and major traffic hub in Northern Norway. In the 1940s, the Skaidi Mountain Lodge and Station was built. Today it’s an important point to stop if you need a rest on the long road journeys.

    Here you’ll find a petrol station, various electric car charging stations, a cafe and a hotel. 

    Savesalta

    Alpine Ski Resort

    Sarvesalta is an alpine ski resort overlooking the Altafjord and it is the major ski resort in the area. One of the popular places to stay is the Bjørnfjell Mountain Lodge, which focuses a lot on Norwegian farming and cabin culture.

    Alta Municipality

    Alta is the most populated municipality in Finnmark county, and its population has increased by 11.3% over the last decade. The coat-of-arms represent a white arrow point on a blue background, and it is derived from the findings of quartzite arrow points dating back to the late Stone Age found in the area. The quartzite was mined in the area and tools were made from it all over Northern Norway.

    Alta is most famous for its rock carvings, which are on the UNESCO World Heritage list. The carvings date from 4,200 BC to 500BC and were likely made by the Komsa culture, an early people in Northern Norway. These are Northern Europe’s largest number of petroglyphs and rock paintings made by a hunter-gatherer population.

    Alta is first mentioned in written sources around 1500, when it was inhabited by a couple hundred Sami people. The area was a common tax country for Denmark-Norway, Sweden, and Russia. Towards the end of the 16th century there were conflicts between Sweden and Denmark over the right to tax salmon fishing in the river. In 1613, it was decided that the area of Alta belonged to Denmark-Norway, and by this time Norwegians were settling along the Altafjord.

    Around 1700, the Kven population began to settle in the area. The Kven people came from Finland and were escaping war and famine. The Kvens brought with them grain cultivation and improved the river fishing methods. In 1826, copper mines were established, and miners came from Finland, Sweden and southern Norway to take part. Several of the miners later travelled onto the United States, but many stayed and combined farming with mining.

    During World War II, the German battleship Tirpitz was kept hidden in the Altafjord for 18 months. It was so badly damaged that it had to leave the fjord. It was towed to Tromsø, where it was eventually sunk by Allied forces. The town of Alta was destroyed by the Germans in 1944 and the only building that was not burned was Alta church.

    The main industries in Alta include trading, education, and public service. The town of Alta is known for its slate industry. Alta is also the starting point for the Finnmarksløpet, the longest dog sled race in Europe.

    Alta is the second northernmost city in the world and a good place to spend some time. I’ve written a detailed travel guide to Alta, which you’ll see below.

    Alta

    The E6 runs through the city of Alta. You can choose to spend the night here or stop at the UNESCO World Heritage Site where the rock carvings are. You can also drive straight through 🙂

    A detailed travel guide to Alta can be found below. 

    Kåfjorden

    Fjord

    Kåfjorden is an 8km (5 mi) long branch of the Altafjord. The fjord was used as the anchorage for the German battleship Tirpitz for much of World War II.

    Talvik

    Village

    Talvik is a small village on the western short of the Altafjord. It has been a trading centre since the 1800s and is the home of Talvik Church from 1883.

    Langfjordbotn

    Village

    Langfjordbotn is a small village located at the innermost point of the Langfjorden. The population is around 110 and the village is known for its excellent nature and in particular good conditions for growing potatoes and berries. There are five dairy farms, a school and community centre here. In summer people come to go hiking, while in winter people come to go skiing, snowmobile driving and dog sled racing.

    Kvænangen Municipality

    Kvænangen is a small but scenic municipality located in Finnmark. The municipality is located around the Kvænangen Fjord and over the Kvænangsfjellet Mountain Pass. The first part of the name refers to the Kven population that resided in the municipality, while the second part of the name comes from the Old Norse word angr meaning ‘fjord’. The population here was originally Sami, but the Kven people settled here about 300 years ago. Archaeological finds indicate people have lived here for 10,000 years.

    When the Kvens came in the 18th century, they took part in fishing, hunting and agriculture. Over time, the fisheries became an important industry and dried fish was exported to southern Norway and the rest of Europe. This attracted Norwegians, who gradually settled in the area. Today fish farming and tourism are the fastest growing industries.

    Alteidet

    Village

    Alteidet is a small coastal village located along the Lille Altafjord. The population is around 130 people and historically it was a trading post. Unfortunately the village was destroyed during World War II and wasn’t really rebuilt.

    Badderen

    Village

    Badderen is a small village with a population of around 180. Mining took place in this area throughout the 20th century; the mines were operated by the Alten Copper Works, led by the Englishman John Rice Crow. The old trading centre of Badderen became the centre for the mining operations, and an ore quay was established here.

    Sørstraumen

    Tidal Current

    Sørstraumen is the second-strongest current in Northern Europe, only beaten by Saltstraumen. We cross the bridge over the current while on the E6.

    Kvænangsfjellet

    Mountain range

    We now cross the Kvænangsfjellet mountain range. The E6 highway crosses the mountains over the mountain pass, which can close in winter in the case of snowstorms. The highest point of the road is 402m (1,319ft) and this is exposed to bad weather.

    The Kvænangsfjellet mountain area is mainly used by the Sami reindeer herders in the summer.

    Gildetun Inn

    Accommodation

    The inn on the side of the road is a well-known place for visitors to stay. It offers accommodation and meals during the tourist reason and has a nice vantage point. 7

    Nordreisa Municipality

    consists of the Reisadalen valley surrounded by mountains and high plateaus. The coat-of-arms depicts two white salmon because the Reisaelva River is one of the country’s best salmon rivers. The Reisa National Park is located in the southern part of the municipality.

    Most of the people who settled here were the Kven people from Finland, who came over in the 18th century escaping famine and war. Some inhabitants have Sami or Norwegian backgrounds.

    Most of the municipality was destroyed by retreating German troops.

    Storslett

    Village

    Storslett is the main centre for the municipality of Nordreisa. It has a small airport, schools and a local church. The town was destroyed during World War II in 1944. The village area has seen strong growth since the war.

    Rotsund

    Village

    Rotsund is a small village located along the Rotsundet strait. We are now in the northern Lyngen region, and the mountains are visible in the distance.

    Lyngen

    Mountain range

    The Lyngen Alps are a scenic mountain range that stretch 90km (56 mi) along the Lyngen Peninsula, with the Lyngen fjord to the east and the Ullsfjorden to the west.

    The mountains are popular among extreme skiers, with the highest summit being 1,833m (6,014ft) tall. The mountains are also popular with climbers.

    Where to Go From Here

    After Lyngen we continued on to Tromsø.

    This drive is part of the multi-day series “From Tromsø to North Cape and back again”. You can view the entire drive via the link below. 

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Drive it Yourself: Honningsvåg to North Cape via the Fishing Villages

    Drive it Yourself: Olderfjord to North Cape on the E69 via Honningsvåg

    In this article...

    Download this Guide

    All of our guides can be downloaded via our online store. 

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

    Online Guide

    Downloadable Guide

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    The drive: Olderfjord to North Cape on the E69

    Olderfjord

    Settlement

    Olderfjord is a small village with a population of around 74. The village is located at an important road junction between the E69 and the E6 highway, so all traffic going to North Cape passes through here.

    Smørfjord

    Settlement

    Smørfjord is a small settlement with around 50 permanent residents, some of them being of Sea Sami (Sjø Sami) descent. There has been a Sami settlement here for thousands of years, with cultural relics from as far back from the Neolithic Age. In the summer months, around 50 reindeer herders have their reindeer grazing area.

    In the village is the Sea Sami Museum (Sjøsamisk tun), which is a reconstruction of a Sea Sami settlement from the early 20th century. There is also a kiosk selling local products and some souvenirs. You can follow a cultural heritage walking trail through the village and surrounding landscape.

    Skarvbergtunnelen

    Tunnel

    The Skarvberg Tunnel is 3.5km long and opened in May 2023, making it one of the newest tunnels in Norway. The old tunnel was too low and narrow, and the supply roads were in an area prone to landslides, so it was decided to build a new tunnel.

    The tunnel is somewhat cursed. During the development, a sacred Sami sacrificial stone (called a siedi) was blown up. After this, the road project experienced a series of inexplicable incidents and accidents, such as a fire, an avalanche, and a coronavirus outbreak. The local Sami population linked the problems to the destruction of the siedi. The contractor apologised by laying flowers at another sacrificial stone.

    Nordkapp Municipality

    Nordkapp municipality has a population of around 3000 people and the administrative centre is Honningsvåg, the northernmost city in Norway.

    Fishing is an important industry here, with around 167 vessels registered as fishing boats. The municipality is state subsidised for the fishing industry. Fish farming is a growing industry here. Tourism is also a major industry, with North Cape being one of the most important tourist destinations in Norway. Around 110 cruise ships come here every year, but many more vehicles come.

    Repvåg

    Settlement

    Repvåg is a small village that has a large Sea Sami population. The village has several settlements from the Old Stone Age, but the village’s modern history goes back to the late 18th century, when a trading post was established here. In 1832, the trading post was bought by the Scottish immigrant Charles Robertson from Hammerfest. Repvåg was an important trading post for the Pomor Trade. The site was burned down in 1944 by retreating Nazi soldiers.

    There is a large beach outside the village called Stranda, which used to have a large coastal Sami population and is the last area in the municipality that is still characterised by some coastal Sami culture. Today only some of the residents speak a Sami language. The beach has a number of important cultural monuments, hunting pits, graves and tufts.

    Today Repvåg has a guesthouse but also excursions to do a King Crab Safari.

    Nordkapptunnelen

    Tunnel

    The North Cape tunnel is an undersea road tunnel that passes under the Magerøy Strait, linking the mainland to the island Magerøya. The tunnel is 6.8km long and reaches a depth of 212 metres below sea level. The maximum gradient is 10%. The tunnel opened in 1999.

    The tunnel has cold doors at each end that keep the cold our in the winter, to avoid ice forming in the rock walls. The gates open automatically when a car approaches.

    Magerøya

    Island

    Magerøya means “steep, barren cliff”, though a direct translation would be “the meagre isalnd” which is what it is. In spite of looking barren it has in the summer a surprisingly varied plant life with over 200 registered species. Some of them you know, such as dandelions and daises, bluebells, violets and wild chives.

    There’s also a selection of alpine plants, which in Switzerland and Austria grow on a 3-4000ft altitude, here they grow all the way down to the sea. There are no trees here – the tree line is a hundred miles further south. There are trees in Honningsvåg, planted in peoples gardens, but they rarely get taller than 3 feet. The owners protect them in the winter, covering them and then in summer they needed to be protected from the reindeer.

    No farming is carried out on Magerøya, but each year six Sami families from Karasjok drive their reindeer flocks to graze here on the North Cape plateau in the summer. The plateau appears bleak and barren but around 200 different plants have been discovered here. Along the cliffs, there are millions of nesting birds and the sea around the island is teeming with life. Marine species include Killer Whales, Minke Whales, Dolphins, Porpoises and various species of seals.

    The orange poles along the road are snow poles, Sometimes in the winter there is so much snow that you can barely see the tops of poles. The first snow arrives in November and lasts until April. They can easily have 5-6 feet of snow. The problem is that there are no trees on the island, so the snow drifts.

    There are no reindeer here in winter. The first ones arrive by truck or boat in April. Then they are too weak after the long winter with sparse food to get over the island. In October they are all brought back to the mainland, after the summer grazing of the 5-6000 animals there isn’t enough food left. They are strong enough to swim back and then be herded for three weeks back to he Finnmark plateau. This is a safe place for the reindeer – there’s no predators on the island.

    Honningsvåg

    This drive begins in Honningsvåg, the northernmost city in the world. You can find a detailed overview to Honningsvåg via the link below. 

    Skipsfjorden

    Fjord/Scenic Spot

    This is a small fjord located by the airport. It has a maximum depth of 101m. Close to the fjord is the Copacabana Beach, where the locals go swimming in the summer. 

    Kamøyvær

    Village

    Kamøyvær is a small town with a population of around 70. The town is predominantly a fishing village. It’s believed the first peoples here were the Sami and Kven people, with Norwegians settling later. A Sami family owns the Arran hotel, which are the three blue buildings in the town. Here you’ll find the Gallery – East of the Sun, a small harbourside gallery where resident German artist Eva Scmutterer exhibits a collection of intriguing, Arctic-inspired paintings.

    Gjesvær

    Village

    Gjesvær is located 14km outside of Honningsvåg and truly feels isolated. Located 14km In fact, until the road was completed in the 1970s, this was one of the most isolated villages in the area. Gjesvaer has a recorded history that dates to the Viking times. The Vikings came here for fishing and to harvest sea birds, especially puffins and kittiwakes, who congregate on the offshore islets that are now protected as the Gjesværstappan Nature Reserve.

    In Gjesvaer you can do bird safaris to Gjesvaerstappen.

    Skarsvåg

    Detour

    Skarsvåg is the world’s northernmost fishing village, located just south of North Cape. Around 60 people live in the village and most of them work in the fishing industry. In the village you’ll also find a well-known Christmas shop.

    Knivskjellodden

    Hike

    Knviskjellodden is a peninsula and the true northernmost point on the island. It is sometimes considered the northernmost point of the entire continent of Europe. Knivskjellodden can only be reached on foot, and it is 9km (5.6 mi) one way. This is where you park the car to start the hike.

    North Cape

    You can find our detailed overview of North Cape via the link below. 

    Where to Go From Here

    After our visit to Honningsvåg and North Cape, we continue to Hammerfest – the northernmost city in the world (with a population over 10,000 people). 

    This drive is part of the multi-day series “From Tromsø to North Cape and back again”. You can view the entire drive via the link below. 

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Drive it Yourself: Kautokeino to Havøysund via the Alta Canyon & Havøysund Tourist Road

    Drive it Yourself: Kautokeino to Havøysund via the Alta Canyon & Havøysund Tourist Road

    In this article...

    Downloadable Version of This Guide

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

    Online Guide

    Downloadable Guide

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    The drive: Kilpisjärvi to Kautokeino

    Kautokeino

    This drive begins in Kautokeino, one of the largest Sami communities in the world. You can learn more about Kautokeino via the travel guide below. 

    Karasjok

    Village

    The first major intersection you’ll come to is what you take to get to Karasjok. Karasjok is another major Sami community and is also home to the Sami Parliament. It takes 1 hour and 10 minutes to get to Karasjok from here. 

    Pikefossen

    Waterfall

    Pikefossen is a waterfall in the Kautokeino River. The name comes from a legend of a maid who was looking after a herd of reindeer. During a storm, the herd began to cross the river on the bad ice above the waterfall. The maid tried to stop them, but the ice broke and the whole herd drowned. When the reindeer owner heard about this, he got so angry he put the girl in a barrel and threw it in the waterfall. She somehow survived and the barrel floated down to Alta where she was found.

    The waterfall is 8m (26ft) high and has a nice picnic area next to it. It’s a little tricky to park there in winter due to the snow (and you can’t really see the waterfall), but in summer it is a lovely spot to stop, have a bite to eat and admire the views.

    Máze

    Village

    Masi (or Máze in Northern Sami) is a small village located along the Kautokeino River. The village is made up predominantly of Sami people – around 98% of the population are Sami.

    The village is very old. It’s mentioned as far back as the 12th century when the area was used by the Sami who were hunting and trapping. The area was called “Finnmork” and there are many archaeological cultural monuments around Masi. There are traces of settlement from the Sami Iron Age (0AD – 1500AD). The nature around the village is protected and has an important ecosystem.

    Masi Church has been here since the 17th century, though the church had to be rebuilt after World War II because the previous church was destroyed by retreating Nazi soldiers. The original church was built by Thomas von Westen to serve and convert the local Sami people.

    Masi was the centre of the Alta Controversy of the late 1970s and early 1980s. The Norwegian government considered building a dam on the local river for the proposed Alta Hydroelectric Power Station, which would’ve flooded the village.

    The village is home to one little shop where you can buy groceries and supplies.

    Suolovuopmi Fjellstue

    Accommodation

    Suolovuopmi Fjellstue is a place to stay up on the Finnmark Plateau. The lodgings have been here since 1843, when they were established by the state because the priests, sheriffs, doctors, and clerks needed accommodation in their errands across the plateau. The mountain lodges were also used by the Sami travelling across the plateau. Today it’s an excellent place to stay to observe the northern lights as well as go fishing or hiking on the plateau.

    Click here to visit their website (in Norwegian only). 

    Alta Municipality

    Alta is the most populated municipality in Finnmark county, and its population has increased by 11.3% over the last decade. The coat-of-arms represent a white arrow point on a blue background, and it is derived from the findings of quartzite arrow points dating back to the late Stone Age found in the area. The quartzite was mined in the area and tools were made from it all over Northern Norway.

    Alta is most famous for its rock carvings, which are on the UNESCO World Heritage list. The carvings date from 4,200 BC to 500BC and were likely made by the Komsa culture, an early people in Northern Norway. These are Northern Europe’s largest number of petroglyphs and rock paintings made by a hunter-gatherer population.

    Alta is first mentioned in written sources around 1500, when it was inhabited by a couple hundred Sami people. The area was a common tax country for Denmark-Norway, Sweden, and Russia. Towards the end of the 16th century there were conflicts between Sweden and Denmark over the right to tax salmon fishing in the river. In 1613, it was decided that the area of Alta belonged to Denmark-Norway, and by this time Norwegians were settling along the Altafjord.

    Around 1700, the Kven population began to settle in the area. The Kven people came from Finland and were escaping war and famine. The Kvens brought with them grain cultivation and improved the river fishing methods. In 1826, copper mines were established, and miners came from Finland, Sweden and southern Norway to take part. Several of the miners later travelled onto the United States, but many stayed and combined farming with mining.

    During World War II, the German battleship Tirpitz was kept hidden in the Altafjord for 18 months. It was so badly damaged that it had to leave the fjord. It was towed to Tromsø, where it was eventually sunk by Allied forces. The town of Alta was destroyed by the Germans in 1944 and the only building that was not burned was Alta church.

    The main industries in Alta include trading, education, and public service. The town of Alta is known for its slate industry. Alta is also the starting point for the Finnmarksløpet, the longest dog sled race in Europe.

    Alta is the second northernmost city in the world and a good place to spend some time. I’ve written a detailed travel guide to Alta, which you’ll see below.

    Alta Canyon

    Scenic Area

    Shortly after passing the municipality sign for Alta, you begin your descent through the Alta Canyon. This canyon is Northern Europe’s largest canyon and extends over 400 metres up from the riverbed. The total length is 12km (7 mi). The canyon begins just downstream from the Alta Power Station. It is possible to visit the dam and power plant, but only with a guided tour. The Sami name for the canyon is Sautso.

    Alta Municipality

    Alta is one of the largest cities in Northern Norway. You can find a detailed travel guide to Alta below. 

    The Altafjord

    Fjord

    The Altafjord is a 38km (24 mi) long fjord near Alta. The deepest part of the fjord is around 488m. There are several different fish species in the fjord, including salmon, trout and char – this is because of the rivers flowing into the fjord. There is also some fish farming in the fjord. Several rock carvings have been found along the fjord and are now on the UNESCO World Heritage list.

    Rafsbotn

    Village

    Rafsbotn is a small village located just outside Alta. The population is around 408 and Rafsbotn is home to a ski slope and a chapel. The name comes from the Sami name Ráššvuotna, which means ‘clay seabed’.

    Sarvesalta

    Alpine Ski Resort

    Sarvesalta is an alpine ski resort overlooking the Altafjord and it is the major ski resort in the area. One of the popular places to stay is the Bjørnfjell Mountain Lodge, which focuses a lot on Norwegian farming and cabin culture.

    Hammerfest Municipality

    Hammerfest is a large municipality in Northern Norway. The main town is Hammerfest, which is located off the mainland on the island Kvaløya. The coat-of-arms depicts a polar bear, which was chosen as the symbol for fishing in the polar seas in Northern Norway.

    Skaidi

    Village

    Skaidi is a small village and major traffic hub in Northern Norway. In the 1940s, the Skaidi Mountain Lodge and Station was built. Today it’s an important point to stop if you need a rest on the long road journeys.

    Here you’ll find a petrol station, various electric car charging stations, a cafe and a hotel. 

    Porsanger Municipality

    Porsanger is the third largest municipality in Norway, yet it only has a population of 3,998, making it one of the lowest population densities in the country. The main town is Lakselv, which has an airport. The area has been settled by Sami people for a long time. In the 18th century, people from Finland, escaping famine and war, settled here. They are known as the Kven people. Porsanger is known as the only trilingual municipality in Norway with Norwegian, Sami and Kven as the official languages.

    The Norwegian Army has a garrison at Porsangermoen and the military presence in Porsanger is quite heavy. The military is one of the largest employers in the area and contributes a lot financially. The Stabbursdalen National Park is located in the municipality and is home to the world’s northernmost pine forest.

    Archaeological finds show the Sami have lived here for a long time. Porsanger is rich in resources, and there are rich pastures for reindeer. On the islands are large quantities of cloudberries and down, while in the rivers there are salmon, trout and char. Until 1750, the area was almost exclusively a Sami area and then it was a Kven area. The Norwegians didn’t begin to settle until the 20th century, though the main reason for this is because the Kven and Sami people began to describe themselves as Norwegian. The area also needed officials, teachers, priests, doctors, merchants, etc and many were Norwegian.

    Porsangerfjord

    Fjord

    The Porsangerfjord is Norway’s fourth-longest fjord, reaching 123km (76 mi) inland. The village of Lakselv sits at the innermost part of the fjord, while the large island of Magerøya (home to North Cape) sits on the western shore of the fjord.

    Olderfjord

    Village

    Olderfjord is a small village located at the junction between the roads. Here you’ll find a petrol station and a few homes.

    Havøysund Tourist Road

    Tourist Road

    The Havøysund Tourist Road is one of the lesser-known tourist roads, but is probably one of my favourites. The landscape is so barren and remote, creating a unique experience as you drive along the rocky landscape along the Arctic Ocean.

    As soon as you make the left-turn, you are on the tourist road.

    Lillefjord

    Rest Area

    The Lillefjord rest area is located at the halfway point on the tourist road. Here you’ll find restrooms in the summer as well as an interesting bridge that crosses the Fosseelva River.

    Måsøy Municipality

    Måsøy is a municipality located across several islands. Havøysund is the main centre for the municipality. The coat-of-arms depicts a weapon called a fishing gaff. It has been used in fishing for centuries to haul large fish into the boat, hence the choice. Fruholmen Lighthouse, the northernmost lighthouse in Norway, is located here.

    The road we are driving on provides access for Havøysund to the mainland, but it can close in winter due to snow.

    Selvika

    Alpine Ski Resort

    This is a rest stop and concrete sculpture that sits at the end of the Selvika Bay. The sculpture was completed in 2012 and was supposed to magnify the experience of walking from the road down to the seaside. In this area many remains of settlements from Neolithic times as well as Sami culture have been found.

    Havøysund

    Havøysund is the municipal centre for the Måsøy municipality. The population is 976 and most people work in the fishing industry. There are fish processing factories, a boat yard, a petrol station, doctors, and a church. Havøysund is home to Måsøy Museum, which consists of tools and technical equipment used by fishermen.

    Where to Go From Here

    After visiting Havøysund, we continued our drive to Honningsvåg, the northernmost city in the world. From there, we visited North Cape. 

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

    Downloadable Version of This Guide

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

  • Drive it Yourself: Voss to Eidfjord

    Drive it Yourself: Voss to Eidfjord

    The drive between Voss and Eidfjord may be short, but it is definitely beautiful. The drive takes you from central Voss down along the old Hardanger Train Line, through a few tunnels, and then into Eidfjord. Eidfjord is located at the end of the Hardangerfjord, and is a popular place to visit for those heading up to Hardangervidda. Along the way you’ll also cross the famous Hardanger Bridge. 

    In this article...

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    The drive: E6 between Voss and Eidfjord

    Voss

    This drive begins in Voss. You can find a detailed guide to Voss below. 

    Skjervsfossen

    Waterfall

    If you’re doing this drive in summer, the detour via Skjervsfossen is very nice. You can stop by the waterfall for some photos. This road is actually the old highway down to Hardanger – if you don’t take the detour, you go through a very long tunnel instead!

    We didn’t go past the waterfall on this trip, but we have been there before. The first stop on the road is at the top of the waterfall (middle photo), and you can see the hairpin road and the road across the waterfall (right photo). Once you drive down the road you can stop for a photo of the lower part of the waterfall (left photo). 

    Granvin Lake

    Natural Attraction

    We are now driving along Granvin Lake. The lake is 4 sq km (1.56 sq mi) and has tunnels on both sides of it. The old Hardanger Line used to run along the west side of the lake.

    Granvin Church

    Historic Site

    Granvin Church sits on the eastern shore of the lake in a small farm area known as ‘Granvin’. The church was built in 1726 and seats about 300 people. The earliest church was mentioned in 1306, but it was not built in that year. It was likely a wooden stave church. The church was expanded in the 17th century. In 1726, the church was sold to private landowners, who tore it down and replaced it with the current church. The church was sold to the parish in 1857.

    Granvin

    Village

    On this drive we don’t go into Granvin, but if you want a short detour then Granvin is a lovely town. Kjerland Gardsbutikk is located just off Highway 13 and is a great place to buy Hardanger apples, Hardanger cider, or fresh produce.

    Hardanger Bridge

    Bridge

    The Hardanger Bridge is a suspension bridge across the Eidfjorden branch of the Hardangerfjord. It used to be a ferry connection, but this bridge has replaced that and significantly improved the driving time between Bergen and Oslo. It is the longest suspension bridge in Norway.

    Construction began on the bridge in 2009 and it officially opened in 2013. The bridge had a budget of 2.3 billion kr (312 million USD) and more than half was to be paid with tolls and saved ferry subsidies.

    The bridge is 1,380m (4,530 ft) long with a main span of 1,310m (4,300 ft). The maximum dock height is 55m (180ft) and the towers reach 200m (660ft) above sea level. The largest cruise ships can’t go under the bridge, but smaller ones can. It is one of the longest suspension bridge spans in the world, and it is the longest tunnel-to-tunnel bridge.

    When you cross the bridge, you’ll pay a very expensive toll. That’s for paying off the bridge!

    Eidfjord Municipality

    Eidfjord municipality is located at the end of the Eid Fjord, which is a branch of the Hardangerfjord. The Eid Fjord is 29km (18 mi) long and is the fjord you’re driving along now. 90% of Eidfjord municipality is 900m above sea level; mostly in Hardangervidda. The nature provides the basis for power production, agriculture, hunting, fishing and tourism. 

    Eidfjord

    We have now arrived in Eidfjord! If it’s a summer day, it may be very busy. I’ve had luck parking outside the Joker supermarket, but you can also park a little ways out of the town and walk in.

    All the information you need for Eidfjord can be found on the travel guide section of the Hidden North. 

    Where to Go From Here

    Eidfjord to Flåm via Vøringsfossen and Hardangervidda on the Hardangervidda Tourist Road

    Cross the Hardangervidda Plateau from Eidfjord and end up in Flåm. 

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Drive it Yourself: Kilpisjärvi to Kautokeino in Finnish Lapland & Finnmark

    Drive it Yourself: Kilpisjärvi to Kautokeino in Finnish Lapland & Finnmark

    In this article...

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    The drive: Kilpisjärvi to Kautokeino

    Kilpisjärvi

    This drive begins in Kilpisjärvi just south of the Finnish/Norwegian border. We had left from Tromso early in the morning. You can read more about Kilpisjärvi via the travel guide below.      

    Enontekiö Municipality

    The municipality of Enontekiö has a population of approximately 1,800 people. It is in the outermost northwest part of the country and is between Norway and Sweden. Finland’s highest point, the Halti fell, with a height of 1,324m (4,344ft) is in the municipality. This is the only municipality in Finland that includes part of the Scandinavian mountains.

    The first human settlement dates to after the last Ice Age. The oldest traces of settlement can be found along the Ounasjärvi Lake and are dated to around 6,000BC. The Sami population used this area as part of their reindeer migration, but there were no permanent settlements until Christianity came to the region. The first church was built here by the Swedes in the 16th century. It was a small wooden building in the village of Rounala and it became a central meeting point where the Sami people gathered for religious ceremonies, where travelling merchants sold their wares, and where the Swedish officials held judicial courts.

    Since the end of the 17th century, the reindeer Sami culture spread from Norwegian and Swedish Lapland to Enontekiö. The reindeer Sami had a nomadic way of life and moved with their animals. Enontekiö’s last nomads didn’t settle down until the 1960s. The culture of the reindeer is still preserved, though. The first Finnish people settled in the area in the 17th century, and due to Finnish immigration and assimilation, a Finnish majority developed in the area.

    During the Continuation War, where Finland allied with Germany in fighting against the Soviet Union, Enontekiö was part of the operational part of the region Wehrmacht. When Finland concluded the Moscow Armistice with the Soviet Union on 4 September 1944, the German troops were expelled. The Finnish-German Lapland War broke out. As the Germans left, they enacted the scorched earth tactic and devastated Enontekiö. The last Wehrmact soldiers left on 27 April.

    The vegetation is very meagre, due to the extreme northern latitude. The northern border of the natural geographic range of spruce matches the southern border of the municipality. The range of pine ends 20km (12 mi) north of the main village Hetta. Birch trees do grow in the municipality. About 70% of the municipality is under conservation protection.

    Due to the harsh climate conditions, there are many animals unknown to the south of Finland. This includes the Norwegian lemming, Arctic fox, snowy owl, Eurasian dotterel, ptarmigan, and ring ouzel. There are lots of small mammals and bird species.

    Enontekiö is part of the native settlement area for the Sami, but only 9.2% of the population speak Sami.

    The main industries here are tourism and reindeer husbandry.

    Järämä Fortification Area

    Historic Fortress

    Järämä is a restored section of the Sturmbock-Stellung fortification that was built by the Nazis between 1942 and 1944 with the purpose of protecting the Arctic Ocean. You can see restored bunkers, trenches and an exhibition about the history of the building.

    In the summer, the museum is open from 11am to 6pm. Click here to visit their website. 

    Karesuvanto

    Village

    Karesuvanto is a small village across from the Swedish border along the Muonio River. The neighbouring village Karesuando is located on the other side of the river in Sweden. According to Finnish tradition they are both considered parts of the same locality, although officially a national border bisects them. The sides are linked by a road bridge built in 1980. The area is traditionally Finnish and Sami speaking. After the Finnish War in 1809, the border was drawn for politically reasons, not for cultural ones. The first buildings were built here in 1670 and were primarily religious buildings to try and convert the Sami people to Christianity.

    In the village you’ll find a petrol station with cafe, souvenir shop, and some hotels. 

    Palojoensuu

    Village

    Palojoensuu is a small village located on the Muonio River. It has a population of around 100 people.

    Enontekiö

    Village

    Enontekiö is a village where we turn off to Kautokeino. Enontekiö is the name of the municipality, while Hetta is the technical name of this town. However, you will often see this town using the municipality name instead. Enontekiö Airport is located just outside the town but doesn’t have regularly scheduled flights. The village is a popular place for cross country skiers, ice fishing, snowmobiling, and husky sledding. The local company, Hetta Huskies, won a Gold Award in the World Responsible Tourism Awards in 2015. It is also possible to visit traditional reindeer farms here.

    Crossing the Norwegian Border

    Border

    Crossing into Norway is very easy – you basically just drive right on over. Sometimes you may be stopped for a random customs check, but it doesn’t happen very often.

    Kautokeino Municipality

    Kautokeino (North Sami name: Guovdageaidnu) is one of the two cultural centres of the Northern Sapmi people (the other is Karasjok). The coat-of-arms represents a lavvu, which is still in use by the reindeer herders who follow their herds according to the season. 90% of the population are Sami speaking.

    In 1852 Kautokeino was the site of a Sami uprising against representatives of the Norwegian authorities. This was one of few violent reactions by the Sami against the exploitation policies of the Norwegian government and is the only known confrontation between Samis and Norwegians with loss of human lives.

    Kautokeino is different from other municipalities in Finnmark because more than 50% of the population is younger than 30 years old. This is due to the number of schools in the area. For example, the Sámi Joatkkaskuvla ja Boazodoalloskuvla is the Sami High School and Reindeer Herding School. Most teachers speak Sami and allow for classes to be taught in Sami. In addition to regular classes, students can study duodji (Sami handicrafts) and reindeer herding. It is the only school in the world that offers a reindeer herding class. Sámi allaskuvla is the Sami University College that has national responsibility for Sami higher education. The Nordic Sami Institute is a Sami research institution that focuses on the Sami language, culture, reindeer husbandry and legal research.

    The main industries are reindeer herding, the theatre/film industry, and the public education system. The Beaivváš Sámi Theatre is the national Sami theatre and plays a role in making Sami history and culture visible. One of the most famous people from Kautokeino is Nils Gaup, a film director known for Pathfinder and The Kautokeino Rebellion.

    Kautokeino is known as one of the coldest places in the Nordics. It has a subarctic climate, and the all-time low was -50C (-59F) and was recorded in 1999. The all-time high was 30C (86F) and was recorded in July 2018. This is because Kautokeino is in the Arctic highlands of the Finmarksvidda Plateau. Kautokeino has some of the lowest rainfall averages in all of Norway. During summer, the daytime temperatures average between 10C (50F) and 20C (68F). The temperature and 10,000 lakes make it a haven for mosquitos, so humans and reindeer tend to flee to the coast for the summer.

    Kautokeino

    Here we are in Kautokeino. You can find a detailed overview of Kautokeino over on the travel guide page. 

    Where to Go From Here

    After a stay in Kautokeino, we continued our drive north through the Alta canyon and down to Alta before heading onto the Havøysund Tourist Road. 

    This drive is part of the multi-day series “From Tromsø to North Cape and back again”. You can view the entire drive via the link below. 

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Drive it Yourself: Flåm to Bergen on the E16

    Drive it Yourself: Flåm to Bergen on the E16

    The E16 (European Highway 16) is the main highway that runs between Bergen and Oslo. The stretch of the E16 that you are likely to do is the part between Bergen and Flåm. It’s a fairly easy drive – just 2.5 hours – and you pass through some incredible scenery (and lots of tunnels).

    While there aren’t too many places to stop at, it is likely you are doing this drive to get from A to B. Here’s an overview of what you see along the way. 

    In this article...

    Download this Guide

    All of our guides can be downloaded via our online store. 

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

     

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    The drive: Flåm to Bergen

    Flåm

    This drive begins in Flåm. You can find a detailed guide to Flåm below. 

    Undredal

    Village

    Undredal is a small village located along the Aurlandsfjord. It is famous for its goats cheese production and tiny stave church. It is about a 20 minute drive from the E16. 

    Gudvangen

    Village

    Gudvangen is a small village with a population of around 120. It is a popular tourist destination due to its proximity at the end of the Nærøyfjord. The popular Gudvangen – Flåm cruise stops here, and many people also come to visit the Viking Village in Gudvangen.

    Nærøydalen

    Natural Attraction

    The Nærøydalen is a valley that runs from Stalheim near Voss down to Gudvangen. The Nærøydalen River runs through the valley and empties into the Nærøyfjord. The entire area is listed on the UNESCO World Heritage List because it is one of the best examples of a fjord system in the world.

    The valley is rich in a mineral called anorthosite, which is mined in the area. Because it is reflective, it is primarily used on the roads.

    Stalheim Hotel

    Hotel

    Straight ahead we can see the Stalheim Hotel (red building on the hill). The hotel first opened in 1885 on the historic postal route between Oslo and Bergen. A lodging had been here long before then, and it was a place where the travellers could get food and supplies for themselves and their horses.

    The hotel has been rebuilt a couple times due to fire. The current building is from 1960 and has 124 rooms for 218 guests. It is a lovely hotel to stay at and provides the best views over the valley. Across the street from the hotel is an open-air museum that explains the history of farming and life high in the mountains.

    You pass the turn-off to the hotel after going through two tunnels. 

    Tvindefossen

    Natural Attraction

    Tvindefossen is a popular waterfall in Norway. It is 116m (381ft) high and is famous for its beauty – it was painted in 1830 by Johan Christian Dahl. In the late 1990s, the waterfall got a reputation for rejuvenation and revival of sexual potency, and that made it one of the most visited waterfalls in Norway. Over 200,000 people visit the waterfall every year.

    Voss

    Voss has a population of around 15,000 people and is a key town between the fjords of Norway. The town is known today for its wide variety of adventure sports, and many come here to hike, kayak, paraglide, and ski. The E16 doesn’t run through Voss, but rather cuts through via a tunnel.

    Evanger

    Village

    Evanger is a small village that has some well-preserved wooden houses and a classic 19th century church. There is also a sausage factory and some other small industries in the village.

    Dale

    Village

    Dale is a small town with a population of around 1,139. The town is a well-known industrial site that was built around the Dale Power Plant. The factory for Dale of Norway, a famous knitwear brand, is located here. Dale of Norway was founded by Peter Jebsen in 1879 when he discovered the rivers large source of power. The machines for the knitwear came from England.

    When the factory was built, there was one farm here, but within 20 years the population grew to 1000 employees. Most people in the village still work at Dale of Norway. The factory has an outlet store that you can visit.

    Osterøy

    Island

    We are driving along the 27km (17 mi) long Osterfjord. On the other side of the fjord is the island of Osterøy. The island is 328km (127 sq mi), making it the largest inland island in Norway.

    Vaksdal

    Town

    Vaksdal is a small town loaded along the Osterfjord. The main building in the town is the Vaksdal Mill, a historic mill used to make flour. 20% of the population work in the local industry, while 26% of the population commute to Bergen.

    Bergen

    You have made it to Bergen! You can read about Bergen in detail on the Bergen Travel Guide page. 

    Previous Drive

    The Hardangervidda Tourist Road

    Take the very scenic drive from Eidfjord to Flåm via the Hardangervidda Plateau and Aurlandsdalen valley. 

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Drive it Yourself: the Hardangervidda Tourist Road

    Drive it Yourself: Hardangervidda Tourist Road

    In this article...

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    The drive: Hardangervidda Tourist Road

    Eidfjord

    This drive begins in Eidfjord. You can find a detailed guide to Eidford below. 

    Eio River & Eidfjord Lake

    Natural Attraction

    The river is 2.1km (1.3 mi) long and runs from lake Eidfjord down into the Eid Fjord. We’ll see the Eidfjord Lake soon; it’s a moraine-dammed lake located just outside the village of Eidfjord.

    Øvre Eidfjord

    Village

    Øvre Eidfjord is a small village on the southern end of the Eidfjord Lake. The town has a population of around 200 and it serves as the last major stop before crossing the Hardangervidda Plateau.

    Norsk Natursenter

    Museum

    Øvre Eidfjord is home to the Norsk Natursenter, which is where you can learn about the nature in the area. Technology is used to allow for interactive experiences and learn about the flora and fauna of the area. There’s also a lovely film about the plateau made by Ivo Caprino. If you have the time, I recommend stopping here to learn a little more about Hardangervidda.

    Måbødalen

    Natural Attraction

    Måbødalen is a unique and narrow valley that will take you from Øvre Eidfjord to Hardangervidda. The deep and steep valley is the result of ice and water having cut into the slacker and more open valleys. The valley is studied with regards to its geological process and the interaction between ice and rivers.

    The valley was almost impassable before 1790, when bridges were built, and a stairway was completed. The first road was built here in the early 20th century; it opened in 1916 and included three bridges. The road is known for its hairpin turns, and today is only for cyclists and pedestrians. The original road through the valley was the first road between east and west Norway over Hardangervidda.

    Luckily for us there is now a new road; the new road is from 1986 and is wider and has many more tunnels.

    Johan Christian Dahl painted Måbødalen, a landscape painting that is on display at the KODE art museum in Bergen. It’s pictured above. 

    Before you get to the more dramatic part of the valley, you’ll pass a small museum about the cultural landscape of Måbødalen.

    Vøringsfossen

    Natural Attraction

    Vøringsfossen is the 83rd highest waterfall in Norway, which itself isn’t an impressive statistic. Rather, it is the setting that makes Vøringsfossen worth seeing. The waterfall has a total drop of 182m (597ft) and is perhaps the most famous waterfall in the country.

    The waterfall was hardly known to anyone besides the locals until 1821, when professor Christopher Hansteen estimated the height of the waterfall. He was on his way to Hardangervidda to make astronomical observations at the time. The way he estimated the height was by throwing stones down the edge and measuring the time they took to fall with his pocket watch. He estimated the height to be 280m (920ft); in 1893 the real height was realised by using string.

    In 2020, a new pedestrian bridge opened across Vøringsfossen; it was placed in sections by helicopter. The pedestrian bridge has received a lot of criticism, which many describing it as quite ugly.

    Fossli Hotel

    Hotel

    Fossli Hotel is a historic hotel overlooking the Måbø Valley and Vøringsfossen waterfall. The hotel was built by Ola L. Garen (1857 – 1915), who saw the potential of the area and the slow introduction of tourists. Before the hotel, there was only a walking path up the valley with 1,500 stairs. Thanks to the hotel, a new road was built through the valley instead. All the materials to build the hotel had to be carried on horseback from Eidfjord up to the top of the hill. Today the hotel is run by Erik Garen, the great grandson of Ola Garen.

    Fossli Hotel is built in the art nouveau style.

    The hotel owns a Zimmerman piano where Edvard Grieg composed Norwegian Folk Songs, Opus 66.

    Room rates

    Hardangervidda Plateau

    Scenic Area

    Hardangervidda is a well-known mountain plateau that spreads across parts of western, central, eastern, and southern Norway. It is the largest plateau of its kind (peneplain, or eroded plain) in Europe, and it has a cold year-round alpine climate. The highest point is the Sandfloegga, which reaches a height of 1,721m (5,646ft).

    The landscape is characterised by barren, treeless, moorland with lakes, rivers, and streams. The western side is rockier, while the eastern side is flatter and more heavily vegetated. The geology is extremely ancient; the rolling fells are remnants of mountains that were worn down by glaciers during the ice ages.

    Settlements from the Stone Age have been found in the area. The people who lived here were likely linked to the reindeer migration. Additionally, there are ancient trails across the plateau. Hardangervidda is still a key route between east and west; highway 7 being the way across.

    The Hardangervidda Plateau is above the tree line. The alpine climate means that there are arctic animals and plants here further south than anywhere else in Europe. There is a large wild reindeer herd here; it is believed to be the largest in the world with up to 10,000 reindeer.

    In 1981 much of Hardangervidda was designated a national park. The Norwegian Mountain Touring Association (DNT) has a network of huts and paths across the plateau. There are two visitor centres: the Norsk Natursenter in Øvre Eidfjord and the Hardanger Nasjonalparksenter, close to Rjukan.

    The Star Wars movie, The Empire Strikes Back, was shot on Hardangervidda; the plateau provided the basis for the Hoth sequences.

    Sysendammen

    Dam

    Sysendammen (Sysen Dam) is a rock-filled embankment dam. It holds back Lake Sysen, which is the main reservoir for the Sy-Sima Hydroelectric Power Station. The water supply to Vøringsfossen is regulated by the dam, and there is a requirement for a minimum water supply during the summer.

    The dam is 81m (266 ft) high, 1,157m (3,796ft) long and 248m (814ft) wide.

    Buskerud (Formerly known as Viken) County

    We have crossed into the county that from 2020 – 2022 was known as Viken. At time of writing, the Viken sign was still by the road. This sign may not be up when you drive through; the county was established in 2020 with the merging of three separate counties. However, the three counties were not happy with the decision and in 2021 a parliamentary election saw the parties wanting to dissolve Viken win. On the 23rd of February 2022, a vote of 49 against 38 saw the decision to split Viken finalised. So, in the near future, Viken will be split up again. For purposes of this video, I’ll talk about the county that used to be here and will likely come back: Buskerud.

    Buskerud county is a historically important county in Norway. The area around Ringerike was likely a small kingdom and Norway’s kings Olav Tryggvason and Olav Haraldsson grew up in Ringerike.

    The first element of the name, buske, refers to ‘bishop’, while the last element means ‘clearing, farm’. Historically, the bishop’s farm was one of the largest in Buskerud and was important during the Reformation. The farm became property of the Danish Crown and served as the residence for the king’s bailiffs until 1668.

    Agriculture, lumber, wood-pulp mills, and other related industries are the county’s main economic activities. There is a lot of hydropower thanks to the rivers Begna and Rands. Buskerud also has a large, forested area.

    Hol Municipality

    Hol is a mountainous municipality that sees 90% of the area over 900m above sea level. The coat-of-arms depicts three silver anvils on a blue background. The anvil was chosen to symbolise the former smithies in the municipality. The municipality was famous for the production of axes, blades and knives, and iron mining took place here in the Viking Age.

    Samegammene

    Souvenir Shop

    Samegammene is a small shop and fur company that began sixty years ago, when Amund Johansen from Northern Norway was forced to sell his reindeer herd after World War II and move south. He took his family with him and settled in Hardangervidda, where he was given the job as a reindeer herder. However, he sustained an injury from that work and decided to focus on tourism instead.

    Several ‘gamme’ have been bult around Hardangervidda. A ‘gamme’ is an ancient form of an earth hut, and from these they sell Sami products and souvenirs. Here you will find souvenirs but also handmade fur mittens and hats. The building was owned by the daughter of Amund Johansen until 2017, when she sold it out of the family. The current owners keep the gamme in memory of Amund Johansen.  

    Haugastøl

    Ski Town

    Haugastøl is the first town you’ll visit after a while. It is primarily a ski resort with various hotels and cabins. There is also a train station here, Haugastøl station, which is on the Bergen – Oslo Railway.

    Haugastøl is one end of the popular Rallarvegen cycling route – it’s an 83km track from Haugastøl to Finse (a town not accessible by road, just train). The road was originally a service road used by workers building the Flåm Railway, but now it is one of the most famous cycling tracks in the country. 

    Ustaoset

    Ski Town

    Ustaoset is a small village located on the Bergen to Oslo Railway. The village came to prominence when the railway opened in 1909 as it was a good spot for people to visit to go skiing. Families from Bergen and Oslo built cabins in Ustaoset and used the train as a way to get there. Due to Norway’s strict laws, it is now very difficult to build a new cabin in Ustaoset. Whenever one is up for sale, it is very popular and is often sold very quickly and for a high price.

    Ustaoset is mentioned in Jo Nesbø’s book The Leopard; the mountain resort cabins play a key role in the murder mystery.

    Geilo

    Ski Town

    Geilo is the main town in Hol municipality and is one of the most well-known ski resorts in the country. The town is in the Hallingdal valley at roughly the halfway point on the Bergen to Oslo railway.

    Geilo is noted for being the first ski resort in Norway and it was built up after the opening of the railway in 1909. The ski season lasts from late October until late April, and there are numerous small ski centres that make up one resort: Geilo Skiheiser. In addition to 39 downhill slopes, there are 220km of cross-country ski tracks.

    In the town centre you’ll find some shops, a supermarket, and a few restaurants. Around 2,500 people live in Geilo all year round, so there is a school, cinema, library and police station.

    Hagafoss

    Village

    Hagafoss is a small village in the upper part of the Hallingdal valley. It is located on the main highway between Bergen and Oslo, but here we take the Fv50 (Norwegian county road 50) towards Aurland.

    Hol Gamle Kyrkje

    Historic Site

    Hol Gamle Kyrkje is a 13th century church in Hol municipality. The church was originally a small stave church but has been rebuilt multiple times. The last time it was rebuilt was in 1939, and today it doesn’t have the design that makes it a stave church. It’s believed the floors of the church are the original staves from the stave church. The church is also known for the fact that it has a gutter in the apse.

    Vestland County

    We have crossed back into Western Norway!

    Aurland Municipality

    Aurland is a municipality in Western Norway that includes the popular villages of Aurland, Flåm, Undredal and Gudvangen. It is also home to the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Naerøyfjord.

    People settled here around 2,000 years ago to farm the area, and agriculture is still important in Aurland. Tourism began coming here in the mid-19th century, primarily from England. They took part in sport fishing and hunting.

    The coat-of-arms depict a goat’s head; a goat is a symbol of the municipality because of their historic production and importance of goats cheese and goat farming.

    Aurland Valley

    Natural Attraction

    Aurlandsdalen is a 40km (25 mi) long valley that was carved out by glaciers.

    Aurlandsdalen represents some of the most beautiful and magnificent in Norwegian nature. The valley has been an important trade and traffic road from the ancient times and was probably in use from the early Viking Age. The route was the shortest route between western and eastern Norway in pre-historic times. There are a number of very old farms in the valley that were permanently inhabited until the turn of the 20th century. There are also mountain dairy farms here (called ‘støls’) that can be spotted high on the mountains.

    The rare mountain flower “mountain queen” can be found in the valley. There are almost 500 plant varieties here. The soil is very rich in minerals formed from phyllitt in the rocks.

    Today many use Aurlandsdalen as a popular day hike (6-7 hours), or you can hike all the way to Finse in 3-4 days. It is one of the best-known tourist tracks in Norway

    As we went down, you saw the huge powerlines. The Aurland river system was developed in the 1970s for power production. The environmental impacts of hydroelectric development are notable; the great waterfalls have been substantially reduced. With the introduction of the tunnels, the water level in the river gorges has been drastically reduced. The Aurlands River is now no longer one of the finest salmon rivers in Norway. Farmers no longer drive cattle, pigs and goats to spend the summer at the old farms. The valley has been characterised, like many other valleys, by gradual urbanisation.

    Aurland

    Village

    Aurland is a small village with a population of around 800. The village is the location of the Aurland Shoe Factory, where the famous penny loafers were first made. Another interesting place to visit in Aurland is the Vangen Church, a historic stone church from 1202.

    Aurlandsfjord

    Fjord

    The Aurlandsfjord is a 29km (18 mi) long fjord and is a branch of the Sognefjord, the longest fjord in Norway. The fjord is deep and narrow, generally reaching less than 2km (1.2 mi) wide. Most of the mountains are up to 1800m (5,900ft) tall.

    Flåm

    We have arrived at Flåm, our final destination for this drive. Flåm is a small population with around 300 people, but is one of the most visited places in Norway thanks to the Flåm Railway. 

    You can read the Flåm travel guide below. 

    Next Drive

    Flåm to Bergen

    Flåm to Bergen on the E16

    Follow the next drive as we make our way back to Bergen on the E16. 

    Previous Drive

    Voss to Eidfjord

    Making a day trip out of Hardanger? Read about the stretch of road between Voss and Eidfjord. 

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!