Emma

Hey! My name is Emma. I'm from Australia but have lived in Bergen, Norway, for the last eight years. I work as a local guide and tour leader for all over Northern Europe. The Hidden North is an online travel guide I have made to help you plan your own visit here.

  • Roskilde

    The UNESCO World Heritage-Listed Roskilde Cathedral

    The UNESCO World Heritage-Listed Roskilde Cathedral

    The little town of Roskilde, located approximately 30km from Copenhagen, is one of the most popular day-trips from the capital for visitors. And understandably so: Roskilde is the old capital of Denmark and is known for its Viking past. The town is also known for Roskilde Cathedral, one of the most important cathedrals in Europe.

    But what makes this cathedral so important? After all, it can’t really compete with large cathedrals in France, Italy and other major European countries. What makes Roskilde Cathedral important is two things: it has been the royal burial church of Denmark since the 15th century, and it is a mix of 850 years of European architecture. For those two reasons, it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The architectural styles stretch from Scandinavian Gothic right through to Romanesque, Renaissance, and Baroque. The cathedral was also one of the first buildings in Denmark to be built of brick, and it encouraged the spread of brick Gothic style throughout Northern Europe.

    If you are visiting Roskilde for the day, it’s impossible to miss Roskilde Cathedral. The cathedral itself is massive and visible from almost anywhere in town. It is also centrally located and on the path down to the Viking Ship Museum (another popular attraction).

    Is it worth visiting? Of course. I think you need to be into royal or architectural history to fully appreciate the cathedral, though. Otherwise it may feel like “just another European cathedral”.

    Here’s an overview of what makes Roskilde Cathedral so special as well as what to expect when you visit.

    In this article...

    Roskilde Travel Guide
    Denmark Travel Guide

    Historical Overview of Roskilde Cathedral

    The first church in Roskilde

    The town of Roskilde, located at the end of the Roskilde Fjord, was founded by King Harald Bluetooth (yes, that bluetooth) around the year 960. To celebrate the founding of the town, King Harald built a wooden stave church on a hill overlooking the fjord. This would become the site of Roskilde Cathedral. Nothing remains of the wooden church today.

    Roskilde eventually became the seat of the Bishop of Roskilde, though it is not known exactly when. It was likely around the time Christianity came to Denmark; the conversion started around the time the Danish Sweyn Forkbeard conquered England in 1013 as he started sending bishops to Denmark.

    Conversion to a Stone Church

    After Roskilde became the seat of the Bishop, the town began to grow in importance for the new Catholic religion spreading across the country.

    The stone church was eventually rebuilt under the orders of Estrid Svendsdatter, the daughter of Sweyn Forkbeard. The stone church was built of travertine, which is commonly found in the Roskilde Fjord, and the style was in the Romanesque, though construction did stop halfway under Bishop Absalon of Roskilde.

    Bishop Absalon marked on the walls

    Bishop Absalon is well-known in Danish history as he is the bishop who founded Copenhagen (known as ‘Havn’ or ‘The Harbour’) as a market town. Absalon started work on the cathedral in 1157, tearing down the travertine cathedral in favour of brick. The cathedral lost many of its Romanesque details in favour of the new incoming Gothic style from France. The cathedral became the first brick Gothic cathedral to be built in Europe and inspired the construction of many others like it.

    With the completion of Roskilde Cathedral around 1280, the town became the religious centre of Denmark. At least 12 churches stood in the town during the Catholic period.

    Becoming a Monarchs Church

    When Queen Margrethe I died in 1414, she was originally buried in her family’s chapel at Sorø Klosterkirke. However, the following year bishop Peder Jensen Lodehat, who had been the queens chandellor and religious advisor, brought her to Roskilde Cathedral. This is considered to be the beginning of the use of the cathedral as a mausoleum.

    It’s worth noting that Margrethe I is one of the most important people in Scandinavian history as she united the three countries into one kingdom called the Kalmar Union, which lasted from 1397 until 1523, when Sweden broke away from the union.

    In 1443, the capital moved to Copenhagen in an attempt to compete with the Hanseatic League for trade on the Baltic Sea. Around the same time, Roskilde was hit by a bad fire. The cathedral was damaged and reconstruction took decades due to funding.

    King Christian I, in an attempt to breathe new life into the cathedral, decided to build a chapel attached to the cathedral to be buried in.

    The Reformation

    The Reformation marked a negative turn for Roskilde Cathedral. When Denmark went from being Catholic to Protestant, all church possessions were put under the ownership of the King. Roskilde Cathedral had to give up all the land it owned, all its possessions, and many of the old chapels attached to the cathedral were torn down. The cathedral was opened up to the ordinary congregation and pews were put in.

    King Christian IV saw potential of the cathedral and put money into restoring it, including adding the altarpiece, a royal box, a pulpit, twin spires, a grand Renaissance entrance portal, and his own burial chapel.

    The Royal Mausoleum

    Having the old chapels be torn down during the Reformation proved to be good for the cathedral as it made space for the royals to start constructing their own chapels. With only one exception since the Reformation, all the Danish Kings and Queens have been buried at the cathedral. The cathedral clearly remained important to the monarch, even though Roskilde’s importance declined.

    Even though the cathedral underwent changes, the monarchs were still buried there.

    Highlights of the Cathedral

    If the history of the cathedral didn’t convince you that you need to visit, let me try with some of the highlights! I will admit that I am interested in both Danish monarch history and European architecture, so I spent a lot of time in the cathedral. I may be a little biased here. But I do think it is a fascinating place to walk around.

    I won’t write about every little detail as that gets boring in a blog article, but here are some highlights.

    Cathedral Guidebook

    When you enter the cathedral and pay the admission fee, the staff will give you a free book full of details about the cathedral. The book has way more details than I can provide here, so, rather than explain everything inside the cathedral, I’ll mention some of the places not to miss.

    I will say that the books order of information goes chronologically and doesn’t necessarily fit the layout of the cathedral. It can be a little confusing to get between points, which is why a guided tour may be better. Still, you can figure it out and get a lot of information.

    I do wish the books had more information on how each monarch was important to Denmark, but maybe that’s something I can write later! They do have signs in front of the coffins, though.

    The Nave

    You will first step into the nave, of course. There is so much to see just in here alone. A highlight is Christian IV’s private box as well as the 17th century pulpit made of marble, alabaster, and stone.

    You will likely head to the choir first (it is one of the first markers in the guidebook) to see Margrethe I.

    The Choir

    In the choir is Margrethe I’s sarcophagus. Don’t miss the graphic 15th century choir stall carvings. Legend says that buried in a nearby brick pilaster are the supposed remains of King Harald Bluetooth.

    These are the information signs about each monarch

    I loved seeing all the artwork that has been uncovered on the walls.

    Christian I's Chapel

    The chapel was the first add-on built specifically for a monarch. This chapel holds the magnificent Renaissance tombs of Christian III (died in 1559) and Frederik II (died in 1588). The chapels founder, Christian I, is credited with helping reconstruction of the cathedral after the fire in 1443. He died in 1481 and is buried in a small chamber under the floor alongside queen Dorothea. The chapels vaults are richly decorated with frescos dating from the 1460s when the chapel was created by Christian I and his wife. They were whitewashed over but rediscovered in 1826.

    The chapel also features the Royal Column, which shows the height of princes who visited the cathedral, including Peter the Great and Prince Charles.  I had no clue what I was looking at when I took the picture!

    Christian IV's Chapel

    This was the chapel I was most excited to see, but I’ve always been a fan of Christian IV.

    Christian IV’s chapel is one of the most spectacular rooms in the cathedral and is a classic example of Christian IV. He is one of Denmark’s most notorious kings, taking the country through a Golden Age and constructing many of the prominent buildings in Copenhagen. He also moved the city of Oslo west and renamed it after himself. His chapel is a true testament to how highly he was thought of (and how highly he thought of himself!).

    The chapel dates from approximately 1620, although the interior work was not completed until as late as 1866. Christian IV died in 1648 after being on the throne for almost 60 years, the longest reign of ay Danish monarch. His chapel has his coffin as well as those of his first wife, Anne Catherine of Brandenburg, his second son, who became King Frederik III, and Frederik’s consort, Sophie Amalie of Brunswick-Luneberg.

    The chapel is designed in his favourite architectural style, Dutch Renaissance (be sure to look at it from the outside too and you’ll see it looks like Børsen in Copenhagen). Much of the work on the chapel has been done in the 19th century, though, when Christian VIII wanted to honour Christian IV a little better.

    The setting includes overly dramatic paintings of Christian’s life. The one of Christian IV wearing an eye patch is made as a 3D painting. The statue of the king is made by Bertel Thorvaldsen, the famous Danish sculptor.

    Frederik V'S Chapel

    This chapel is designed in the neoclassical style. Construction began in 1774, taking inspiration from Rome, and it was inaugurated in 1825. The white maidens represent Denmark and Norway and are dressed in Greek gowns.

    Christian IX's Chapel

    This chapel was constructed in 1919 and completed in 1924. It was built in the Byzantine Revival style with a Roman inspiration. In the northern arm is the sarcophagus of Christian IX and Queen Louise. Surrounding the sarcophagus are three statues of female figures named “grief”, “memory” and “love”. They are Carrara marble from Italy. The sculptor was Edvard Eriksen, who also did “The Little Mermaid” in Copenhagen (Grief looks just like the famous mermaid statue).

    Saint Andrews & Saint Brigittas Chapels

    These two chapels are the only remnants of the many medieval chapels that would’ve been attached to the original cathedral. St. Andrews Chapel dates to 1396, while St. Brigitta’s is from 1485. St. Andrews Chapel has pre-Reformation frescoes from 1511 inside.

    St. Brigitta’s has been restored to house the tomb of the current queen, Margrethe II. It was intended to hold both Margrethe and her late husband, Henrik, but he chose instead to have his remains at Fredensborg Castle – in protest for never been given the title of King). The queen teamed up with an artist to design her own tomb (there’s a model on display). Her body will reside in the stepped area at the bottom, which stand three columns: one made of basalt from the Faroe Islands, another made of marble from Greenland, and the third of stone from Denmark.

    Visiting Roskilde Cathedral

    The Cathedral is about a 15 minute walk from Roskilde station and is clearly marked with signs (though you will see the towers very well).

    Roskilde Cathedral is free with the Copenhagen card.

    The Cathedral is open throughout the year, but keep in mind that it will close for weddings and special events. You can view their current opening houses on the website by clicking here.

    Have you visited Roskilde Cathedral? Let me know in the comments!

    Roskilde Travel Guide
    Denmark Travel Guide
  • Culture & Everyday Life, Norway

    Norwegian Christmas Traditions

    Norwegian Christmas Traditions

    Many think that December will be this dark, quiet, and depressing month, but it is quite the opposite. In fact, it is one of the most lively and colourful months of the year. This is thanks to Christmas and how excited people get for the holiday seasons. The cities and towns are often decorated for Christmas by the end of November. The trees and buildings are decorated with lights, the churches have regular Christmas concerts, and the larger cities will have a Christmas market.

    In this article...

    Historic Overview

    “Jul” is the Nordic word for Christmas. It comes from the Norse “Jòlnir”, which is an alternative name for Odin. It was celebrated during the second moon of the winter half of the year. The animals for slaughter were the fattest, flour had been processed, all the autumn work was complete, so it was time to celebrate. Traditions varied, but the farmers would have a beer drinking party. The tradition of drinking is symbolised by a drinking horn on the 25th of December on the Runic calendar, with an upside-down drinking horn depicted on the 13th of January, indicating the beer should be finished by then. The nisse is a mythological character associated with the Winter solstice, and it has become a figure of the modern day Santa Claus.

    It All Starts with the Julebord

    Julebord is the first sign of Christmas. The word directly translates to Christmas table and it is where companies, organisations and groups of friends gather to have a Christmas party. They often book a table at a restaurant, making it very difficult to find a spot for dinner throughout December. If you are visiting in December, book your table very early! We tried to get a table in Bergen in the first week of December and everything was booked out.

    The First Sunday of Advent

    The beginning of Christmas is typically marked with the first Sunday of Advent. Many houses will have a star-shaped lamp in their window called the “Julestjerne”. The first Sunday of Advent is also the lighting of the first of four purple candles called “Adventslys”. There are songs and poems written for each of the four Sundays of Advent. Traditionally the candles were purple, but now they use any colour. Click here to see the Advent candles on Mt. Floyen in Bergen.

    Advent calendars are super popular in Norway and every company imaginable will make an advent calendar. Another popular thing to do is make a gingerbread house, or “pepperkakehus”. Kits are sold in supermarkets, stencils are sold in kitchen shops, or you can make the whole thing from scratch. Bergen has the world’s largest gingerbread village, which is made by kids from all the local schools.

    Each Sunday leading up to Christmas is celebrated with lighting of the candles, choirs, and community gatherings.

    Lille Julaften (23 December)

    Then comes the 23rd of December, which is known as “Lille Julaften” or “Little Christmas Eve”. Many families will have a small tradition together, whether it be decorating the Christmas tree, making a gingerbread house, or reading risengrynsgrøt. That is a hot rice pudding served with sugar, cinnamon, and butter. An almond is hidden in the pudding and if you get it in your portion, you win a marzipan pig! For the travellers, you can go to any supermarket and buy a marzipan pig. The 23rd is also when you decorate the Christmas tree. This tradition isn’t as common as it used to be, with many opting to decorate earlier like in other countries, but traditionally in Norway the tree was decorated on the 23rd.

    A common show to watch in Norway on Little Christmas Eve is Grevinnen og Hovmesteren, Dinner for One. It’s a British sketch comedy. The German television station Norddeutscher Rundfunk recorded an 18-minute performance of the show in 1953 and it eventually became the most repeated TV program of all time. The sketch depicts the 90th birthday of Miss Sophie, who hosts a yearly dinner for her friends. Due to her old age, she has outlived them all, so her butler James impersonates and drinks instead of each of the guests. As he goes around the table, James gets noticeably drunk, and repeatedly asks Miss Sophie: “The same procedure as last year, Miss Sophie?” to which she responds, “the same procedure as every year, James!”.

    The Norwegian TV station NRK has been broadcasting the 11-minute Swiss version every 23rd of December since 1980.

    https://youtu.be/eaFFywm18P8

    Julaften (Christmas Eve)

    Christmas Eve, or the 24th of December, is the main day for Christmas in Norway. It is known as “Julaften” or “Christmas Eve”. In the morning some may attend church service while others will be out shopping for last minute Christmas presents. At around 5pm families gather for their traditional Christmas dinner, and the presents are opened afterwards. This is marked by church bells ringing around the country.

    Presents are delivered by the “Julenisse”, which is the Norwegian version of Santa. Before that, though, they must dance around the Christmas tree and sing traditional carols. The “Sølvguttene” or “Silver Boys Choir” appear on television for their annual concert, and at 5pm the church bells ring throughout the cities to announce the official start of the holiday. The most famous song to sing while dancing around the tree is Så går vi rundt om en enebaerbusk meaning “here we go round a mulberry bush”.

    https://youtu.be/9kgfwaiKr00

    On television, NRK shows Three Gifts for Cinderella. It has been shown every year since 1975. It has become a holiday classic in Norway even if it isn’t a typical Christmas movie. The movie is based on Bozena Nemcova’s version of Cinderella, with a feminist approach in which the prince actively pursues the skilled hunter Cinderella before she falls under his charm.

    https://youtu.be/aA0D57uIZ_0

    In almost every store in Norway you’ll see a julenisse in some form. They are a common thing to buy in December. They are also used to decorate the milk cartons for the month of December.

    If you are in Norway on the 24th of December, expect it to be dead quiet with many restaurants, pubs and shops closing.

    Christmas Day

    The 25th of December is a quiet day to spend with your family. Kids will typically watch the Norwegian movie “The Journey to the Christmas Star” or one of the American Christmas movies. Rice porridge is served at midday.

    Romjul

    The days between Christmas Eve and New Years Eve are also very quiet, and some shops will remain closed until the 27th of December. Norwegians typically use this time to hike, ski, or visit family and friends. There is more activity in the city centre with locals choosing to go out to dinner. The Norwegians have a word for this period – romjul. There’s no English translation, but it basically means “that time between Christmas and New Year when no one is really sure what they should be doing”.

    Norwegian Christmas traditions

     

    The Julebukk or “Yule Goat” is a goat made out of straw that is created at the beginning of December to be used as a Christmas ornament. Its oldest representation is that of Thor’s magical goats, which would lead him through the night sky. The Julebukk was also a spirit that would protect the house over the Christmas period and it was tradition to sacrifice a goat to the Gods during the time span between the Winter Solstice and the New Year. After the goat was sacrificed, adults then donned guises to personify the Julebukk. Animal masks and skins were donned in an activity called “hoodening”. Participants would parent from house to house, disguising their voices, singing and offering spiritual protection. They would receive small amounts of money, food and drink in exchange for their blessing. This tradition doesn’t exist today, but it is common to see the Julebukk hanging outside doors.

    Enjoy Christmas in Norway!

    This guide should help you plan your trip to Norway well. Embrace the holiday season and try to take part in as many Christmas activities as possible.

    Let me know in the comments if you have been in Norway during Christmas and have any tips!

  • Culture & Everyday Life, Foodies Guide, Norway

    The Most Popular Norwegian Christmas Foods

    The Most Popular Norwegian Christmas Foods

    Visiting Norway in December? You have to try some Norwegian Christmas foods! Christmas in Norway is a huge celebration and many choose to celebrate through their food choices. Many restaurants will switch to Christmas menus for the months of November, December and January, giving you plenty of opportunity to try classic dishes.

    Here are the most common foods to try in Norway over Christmas.

    In this article...

    Ribbe

    Click here for an image and recipe.

    Typically, meat is eaten at Christmas. In older times meat was expensive so was reserved for special occasions (such as Christmas). It was also common to eat the entire animal and not let anything go to waste, so be prepared for some stranger meat options further down.

    “Ribbe”, or “ribs”, is the most popular Christmas eve dinner all over the country. The ribs are typically pork and it is commonly eaten with sauerkraut, red cabbage, patties, sausages and potatoes. The dish became popular at the end of the 18th century when potatoes came to Norway and then it became more common to eat pork. Before that, pigs were not common because the feed was similar to human diet, so raising pigs was seen as wasteful. The potato solved this problem and paved the way for ribbe.

    Pinnekjøtt

    Norwegian Christmas foods

    Click here for a recipe.

    “Pinnekjøtt” is the most popular Christmas Eve dinner in Western Norway. The word literally means “stick meat” and is racks of lamb or mutton cured in brine or sea salt. It has a unique flavour that comes with the preservation methods of curing, drying and smoking. The technique is developed from the same method used to dry fish. You will see it in supermarkets but also at any Norwegian restaurant in cities like Bergen on the west coast.

    Smalahove

    Click here for pictures and a recipe.

    If you are feeling brave you can try “smalahove”. It is a sheeps head, and it is rather literal. To create it, the skin and fleece of the head is torched, then the brain is removed, the head is seasoned with salt and then air-dried. The head is boiled until cooked. It was originally associated with the lower classes in Norwegian society and is more common in western parts of Norway. Some restaurants on the west coast do serve the full head, though you need to share it amongst multiple people.

    Lutefisk

    Click here for a recipe.

    “Lutefisk” is THE Christmas dish. Lutefisk is made by mixing lye of potash and water and then soaking dried cod (stockfish) in it. Some claim it has a strong, pungent odour, but I think they’ve never had good lutefisk before. It is not smelly or slimy like people will tell you. I’ve been told so many times by people from the Mid-West that lutefisk is slimy, but it isn’t! I get it every year at Bryggeloftet in Bergen and find it very similar to eating regular cod. It is typically served with crispy bacon on top, making it even better.

    It has been a popular dish since the 16th century when it was a common Catholic dish. Meat was always considered expensive, so it was reserved for special dinners (such as Christmas). You will find it at any traditional Norwegian restaurant or can take a look at a supermarket in the fresh seafood section.

    Risengrynsgrøt

    Click here for pictures and a recipe (in Norwegian)

    “Risengrynsgrøt” is a hot rice pudding and is one of the more traditional dishes. In fact, in Norwegian folklore it is what the “fjøsnissen” barn gnome eats. The Fjøsnissen was a mischievous and slightly sinister character that was important when Norway was a farming community. You must stay friends with him; if he was treated well, the farm would be prosperous. If he got unhappy, bad things could happen such as him striking the dairy cattle dead. In the countryside, many people put a bowl or risengrynsgrøt and juleøl out for the barn gnome to eat. In Northern Norway, many prefer to have cloudberry cream instead.

    Kransekake & Krumkake

    Both are popular cakes over Christmas. You can buy miniature Kransekake in supermarkets, and you can also get Krumkake. Some pancake stalls at Christmas markets will sell Krumkake too.

    Click here for a kransekake recipe and click here for a krumkake recipe.

    Gløgg

    “Gløgg” is the most popular drink to have over Christmas. It is a warm, spicy drink like the German Glühwein. It can be made with red wine, but most Norwegians prefer the non-alcoholic version you can get in a supermarket. The Christmas markets often have gløgg, but it’s not so common at restaurants or pubs.

    Both are popular cakes over Christmas. You can buy miniature Kransekake in supermarkets, and you can also get Krumkake. Some pancake stalls at Christmas markets will sell Krumkake too.

    Click here for a kransekake recipe and click here for a krumkake recipe.

    Juleøl

    It is possible to buy “juleøl” or “Christmas Beer” over the holiday period. They are typically released by the major beer companies.

    Click here to see the “Best in Test” Christmas beers of 2022.

    Julebrus

    The most popular drink over Christmas is most definitely “julebrus”, or “Christmas soda”. Each drinks company makes its own and claims to be the best, though locals argue about which julebrus is better: the brown coloured julebrus or the red coloured julebrus. Every year the local newspaper will rank julebrus. Here is the “Best in Test” for this year.

    Akevitt

    It is also common to drink “akevitt”, the Norwegian liqueur, on Christmas. Many brands will release a special Christmas edition of the akevitt.

    Pepperkake

    “Pepperkake” is the Norwegian cousin to the gingerbread cookie. Many parents bake them with their children, but every supermarket will sell them.

    Click here for a Pepperkake recipe.

    Marzipan
    Marzipan figures are super popular at this time of year and can be bought in any supermarket. Most popular is the marzipan pig.

    Enjoy Christmas!

    Hopefully this will help you plan your trip to Norway over the Christmas period. Be sure to try some Norwegian Christmas foods! Let me know in the comments if you have tried any of these foods or have any recommendations.
  • Brønnøysund, Central Norway, Namsos, Norway's Coastal Road, Road-trips, Rorvik

    Drive it Yourself: The Coastal Road Day 2 – Namsos to Brønnøysund

    Drive it Yourself: The Coastal Road Day 2 – Namsos to Brønnøysund

    On day two of the Norwegian Coastal Road series, you make your way through the back roads first to Rørvik. Rørvik is worth the detour; it is home to the award-winning Coastal Museum and is a perfect way to begin your experience on Norway’s Helgeland Coast. Shortly after joining the Fv17, you’ll begin your journey on the Helgeland Coastal Road.

    In this article...

    Downloadable Version of This Guide

    Download this guide to have it as a PDF ready to go for your road-trip!

    All downloadable guides come with an interactive Google Map for easier navigation. 

    View on Store

    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Information about facilities along the way

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the region & towns
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Facilities including supermarkets, toilets, petrol, hotels, cafes, restaurants with addresses.
    • Interactive Google Map for easier navigation

    The drive: Namsos to Brønnoysund via Rørvik

    Namsos

    This drive begins in Namsos, a charming down on Norway’s central coast. 

    Namsos Travel Guide

    Salsnes

    Salsnes is located back on the mainland and is a small village within Namsos municipality.

    Lund - Hofles Ferry

    This is the first of two ferries you’ll take today. You can find a schedule for the ferry by clicking here. 

    Nærøysund

    Nærøysund is a municipality with a population of around 9,700. Rørvik is the administrative centre, which you will arrive at soon. 

    The strait that the road follows is called the Nærøysundet. This straight also runs alongside Rørvik. It is a busy waterway as almost all coastal traffic passes through it, including the Hurtigruten. It is also used as protection for ships waiting for better weather before crossing the open stretch of sea called Folda in the south. 

    The historic trade and church site on Nærøya is named after the Norse Sea god Njord. It is not possible to get to Nærøya today, but it is still nice to know that this area has been important for trade since the Viking times. 

    Nærøysund is Norway’s largest aquaculture municipality as well as a large fishing municipality. Together the seafood businesses have a turnover of NOK 6 billion. Agriculture is also an important source of income for the municipality, with Trøndelag’s third-largest milk production. 

    The winter crayfish fishery at a place called Viknaværene has traditionally been one of the most important fisheries in Norway after the Lofoten fishery. 

    Rørvik

    Located on the Nærøysundet Strait, Rørvik has always been an important port town for coastal traffic.

    Rørvik Travel Guide

    Kolvereid

    This town will be marked on the highway, so you know you’re going the right way if you see signs towards it. Kolvereid is home to the municipality’s culture centre, comprising of a stage and cinema, a sports hall, as well as outdoor sports facilities.

    Gravvik

    Gravvik is a small village that focuses on agriculture and fishing, with fish farms for salmon and halibut important to the community. At Gravvik there is a cave and archaeological site called Fingalshulen. The cave has 47 paintings that are estimated to be about 3000 years old. The cave is closed to the public, though.

    Nordland County

    You now cross into Nordland County, the beginning of Northern Norway. 

    Bindal Municipality

    Bindal is a small municipality within the traditional region of Helgeland. The important industry here is aquaculture, agriculture, forestry, and some Sami reindeer husbandry. The municipality also had a small gold rush in the 1920s, though not much came of it as the amount of gold wasn’t significant enough to commence drilling. Bindal has a long tradition of boat building and the Nordland boards are still built here. Ever since 1978 there have been annual Nordland boat races.

    Holm - Vennesund Ferry

    At Holm you take the ferry across to Vennesund. 

    Sømna Municipality

    Sømna’s main industries are like the rest of your drive – the area focuses on agriculture, forestry, and fishing. Northern Norway’s largest dairy is located here. In fact, Sømna has some of the best agriculture in the region. Archaeological excavations show that people have been here since the early Iron Age. The oldest boat remains ever found in Norway was discovered in a bog in Sømna. The boat is called the Haugvikbåten and is estimated to be 2,500 years old.

    Vik

    In Vik you can visit the Sømna Bygdetun, an open-air museum about the municipality. Vik also has Sømna Church, which is from 1876. However, the earliest church records indicate there has been a church here since at least 1432.

    Brønnøy Municipality

    Brønnøy is the last municipality for the day, with Brønnøysund being the administrative centre. The coat-of-arms depicts a daymark used in the harbour to guide ships, symbolising the importance of the harbour for the municipality. Brønnøy has a varied landscape, from the archipelago on the coast to high mountains in the east. The world’s northernmost naturally occurring linden forest grows here, and there is a boreal rainforest at the Grønlidalen nature reserve.

    The big employers here are the Brønnøysund Register Centre, which is a government service for companies. One of the largest limestone mines in Northern Europe is also located here.

    Brønnøysund

    You have made it to Brønnøysund, the geographical centre of Norway and starting point for the incredible Helgeland Coastal Road. 

    Brønnøysund Travel Guide

    Continue the drive

    Norway's Coastal Road Part 3: Brønnøysund to Sandnessjøen

    See the first part of Norway’s Coastal Road.

    Brønnøysund to Sandnessjøen

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Oslo, Walking Guides

    Oslo’s Grønland Neighbourhood: Self-Guided Walking Tour

    Oslo’s Grønland Neighbourhood: Self-Guided Walking Tour

    Grønland is an area in Oslo with quite the reputation. It is known across the country for its high immigrant population, higher crime levels compared to the rest of the country, but also cheap markets and restaurants. Some people love Grønland while others call it a no-go zone.

    I love how different Grønland feels compared to the rest of Oslo. But – as a history nerd – I love the history of Grønland. Grønland grew up as a peasants neighbourhood on the main access road to historic Christiania. Many of its old buildings still remain, and we can see them on this walk.

    So – I recommend doing this walk. You’ll see the diversity of Grønland, the history of the neighbourhood, and pass some very unique buildings in Oslo’s city centre. 

    In this article...

    Oslo Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Downloadable Version of This Guide

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided walks on our online store. 

    View at the Store

    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos

    Grønland Self-Guided Walking Tour

    This walk begins at Vaterlandsparken. 

    Vaterland

    Vaterlandsparken is located behind the Radisson Blu Hotel and Oslo Bus Terminal. 

    Vaterland is a very old and interesting neighbhourhood. The name is actually a Dutch word (for Waterland) as Dutch schooners began coming here to load timber that had been floated down in the river. They first started coming here in the 17th century. 

    Vaterland Bridge

    The bridge that you are crossing was originally built in 1654, though it was rebuilt in the 1830s. The bridge was first painted in 1685, when this area was a richly populated area with a lot of businesses operating. In 1868, there were 11 pubs here. Here is a painting of the bridge from 1685. We are looking down the Akers River out to the Oslofjord, so you will be crossing the bridge from right to left in this picture. 

    Apotek Hjorten & Workers Housing

    This beautiful building was built as a pharmacy in 1857 and was the fifth pharmacy to be built in Christiania. Today the building is used by the restaurant Dattera til Hagen but the interior of the pharmacy has been preserved over at the Folkemuseum in Oslo. Number 12, the brick building next to it, was built by the Company for the Construction of Workers Housing and is Oslo’s oldest preserved workers dwellings. 

    Grønland Square

    Grønland Square was established in the 1860s as a cattle square, where farmers would bring their cattle in for sale. Today most of the square is gone as those apartment buildings were constructed in 1989. The square today is something of a market with good fruits and vegetables for sale at prices somewhat cheaper than the rest of Oslo. Locals know that the bars around here have some of the cheapest beer in the city. 

    Across the street, you’ll notice some older buildings including some wooden ones. 

    Asylet

    Asylet is across the street from the square and has a cultural heritage blue plaque on it. 

    The building was built for a merchant around 1730 but was expanded in 1798. The house became a childrens asylum between 1839 and 1865. ‘Asylum’ means something different in Norway; it operated very similar to an orphange. Children could get a basic education here and be sponsored by the more well-off in town. The building was a so-called ‘rescue institution for abandoned, neglected and morally depraved children of both sexes’.

    Intercultural Museum

    The Intercultural Museum is a fitting museum for this neighbourhood. The goal is to promote intercultural understanding and respect. The building used to be a police station, which also draws interesting connections. The permanent exhibition documenting the history of immigration in Norway and the cultural changes from the last few decades is very interesting. There are rotating exhibitions of artwork from people with different nationalities that are housed inside the old prison cells. The Intercultural Museum won the prize for the best Norwegian museum in 2006. 

    Grønlandsleiret

    The name of the road we are walking on now changes to Grønlandsleiret. Grønlandsleiret is the old road that connects Christiania with Gamle Oslo. The road was paved in the 19th century with the remains of Hallvards Cathedral, a medieval cathedral that was damaged by fire and abandoned when the city was moved.

    There are some lovely historic buildings along Grønlandsleiret. 

    Tøyengata

    Tøyengata is a well-preserved street with many buildings from the 1800s.

    The homes were renovated in 1982. Before then the homes were uninsulated and it was common for water to freeze in the pipes in the winter. Rats were also often seen on the street, and you had to turn off the heating to have enough electricity to cook.Now many of them are small businesses but it gives a nice look at what houses here used to look like.

    If you want to walk down, there are some interesting houses.

    Number 10 was considered a ‘rural house’ when it was built around 1827. In 1865, it was documented that 27 people were living in the house. It was owned by labourer Johan Jensen who lived there with his wife and four children plus a ship’s stoker, a widow who sold beer, a shoemaker, a sailor, and other various craftsmen.

    The stateliest house on the street is number 24, which was built in 1825 for the sailor Rasmus Hansen and ship carpenter Ole Abrahamsen. The building was expanded to have a second floor in 1857 and in 1865 it was documented that 37 people lived in the house.

    Olympen Restaurant

    Known as ‘Lompa’ by the locals, Olympen is a well-preserved historic beer hall that has been in operation since 1892. The building itself is a little older; in 1872 it was a warehouse that was fitted with a bowling alley. Schous Brewery bought the building in 1892 and since then it has operated as a beer hall. Restaurant operations began in 1912. It is highly recommended to go here for a drink or for a meal. Just look at the interior – it is so well preserved!

    Norwegian Fire Museum

    The building that today houses the Oslo Fire Museum is the old Grønland Fire Station. The Grønland Fire Station opened in 1866, though it has been rebuilt several times. The building has also been changed when they transitioned from using horses to using vehicles. Stables are still inside the building, though. The fire station closed in 1978. There are several vintage fire trucks parked in the window. 

    Inside the complex are also two organisations called ‘the Substance Abuse Agency’ and ‘Uteseksjonen’, both of which aim to prevent drug abuse. 

    Grønland Church

    Next to the fire museum is Grønland Church. The church was built in 1869 out of brick in the neo-Romanesque style. It has 800 seats, making it one of the larger churches in Norway. It is the largest church in Oslo. However, it has one of Oslo’s lowest membership numbers. After all, it is a Lutheran church in a mostly Muslim neighbourhood. 

    The church is often nicknamed ‘the cathedral of the east end’. 

    Oslo Prison

    Oslo Prison is one of the largest prisons in the country with approximately 250 inmates. The building itself is historic; it was built in the 1840s and opened as a prison in 1851. It used the Philadelphia system, which meant that prisons were kept in isolation in solitary cells. The idea was that it would make them repent their sins and they wouldn’t be negatively influenced by other prisoners.

    The oldest building, Division A,  closed in 2017, while Division B and C still operate. Division C is for inmates with substance abuse problems who want to use their sentence to change their habits. 

    Oslo Police House

    Oslo Prison is one of the largest prisons in the country with approximately 250 inmates. The building itself is historic; it was built in the 1840s and opened as a prison in 1851. It used the Philadelphia system, which meant that prisons were kept in isolation in solitary cells. The idea was that it would make them repent their sins and they wouldn’t be negatively influenced by other prisoners.

    The oldest building, Division A,  closed in 2017, while Division B and C still operate. Division C is for inmates with substance abuse problems who want to use their sentence to change their habits. 

    World Islamic Mission

    This is the Norwegian branch of the World Islamic Mission. It was established in October 1984 by Norwegian Muslims with a Pakistani background. 

    The walls of the building are decorated with tiles from Iran and Spain, and the tiling was mostly done by Iranian craftsmen. The caligraphy is from the Koran and is a central motif both on the facade and on the wall in front of the main hall.

    This is one of Norway’s largest Muslim congregations with 5000 members. 

    Thanks for coming!

    I hope you enjoyed this walk around Grønland. Be sure to check out one of the eateries before leaving – this is where you find the good, spicy and cheap meals!

    Oslo Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide
  • Eidfjord, Hardangerfjord, History, Kinsarvik, Norway, Utne

    Hidden Secrets at Historic Kinsarvik Church

    Hidden Secrets at Historic Kinsarvik Church

    When driving along Highway 13 between Eidfjord and Odda, you’ll pass through the village of Kinsarvik. You wouldn’t really know it was a village, let alone an important Viking-era settlement, because it has now been transformed into something of a holiday park with water activities for kids and cabins to rent. But look a little closer and you’ll see a stone church down by the water. This is one of the oldest churches in the region and hints at the historic importance of Kinsarvik.

    I find the Kinsarvik church fascinating. Tucked away by the fjord, this small unassuming church carries almost 1,000 years of history. So, when you are doing your road-trip, be sure to stop by the church and admire its uniqueness!

    Here is some information about the Kinsarvik Church.

    The Rv13 Highway

    Kinsarvik is located on the Rv13 highway. You can find my guide to the Rv13 by clicking the link below. 

    The Rv13 Highway
    Eidfjord Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    In this article...

    The Earliest Church

    Kinsarvik Church is the oldest stone church in the Hardanger region and used to function as the main church for the region. It is strategically located at the junction of the Hardangerfjord and the Sørfjorden, which leads to Odda, so locals could row their boats into Kinsarvik and attend church.

    The earliest records of the church date back to 1298, but the church wasn’t built then. The stone church isn’t even the first church on the site; it’s believed a wooden church stood here around 1050. The wooden church was likely a ‘post church’, which is the predecessor to the stave church. The difference between them is that the post church has its beams going directly into the ground, while stave churches rest on stone foundations. Post churches don’t survive anymore because, well, putting posts directly into the ground meant the wood would rot. Stave churches are an evolution of the post church in that regard because the stone protects the wood from rotting.

    The stone church was built to replace the old wooden church around 1160, and remains of the wooden church have been found underneath. Building in stone was very expensive and only reserved for churches of importance. Think of Stavanger, Bergen, Trondheim and Oslo with their well-preserved stone churches. These were all major cities. So, using stone at Kinsarvik indicates that this was an important place.

    Romanesque details at Kinsarvik Church

    Church Style

    The church is built in a Romanesque style with a rectangular nave, and the foundation walls are about 1.5m (4ft 11 inches) wide.

    Archaeological excavations have found there was a fire in the church around the year 1180. This was around the time of the Norwegian Civil War, and there were two major groups – the Birkebeiner and the Bagler – fighting against each other. It is documented that the Birkeners ravaged the area, so it may be them who caused the fire.

    The choir was built after the fire, likely around the 13th century.

    Kinsarvik Church

    Exterior Detailing

    If you look at the church, you’ll notice that all of the portals, window openings and walls have been retained from the Middle Ages.

    Something that is curious is the window high up on the west gable. It is a window leading up to the church attic. It is here that they used to hoist the local ship sails and masts to store during the winters.

    Renovation

    The church had its last major renovation in 1880 during a time when ancient Norwegian sites were being restored to their former appearance. At Kinsarvik Church, much of the old furniture was removed and the church went back to its medieval feel.

    Inside the Church

    The church has many unique interior qualities. The first is the large number of cavities that can be found in the church walls. There were used as places to hide valuables, but Kinsarvik Church has an unusually high number. Considering Kinsarvik used to be a Viking settlement, maybe they had to deal with regular raids?

    Kinsarvik Church

    Another important item inside the church is the antemensalet (decorations in front of the altar). The one at Kinsarvik Church is considered one of the most valuable paintings of North European medieval art. It shows the saviour on the cross and the crucifixion, and above the cross is written “Jesus of Nazareth, King of the Jews”. Around the edge is “Neither of God nor man is this image, as you see. But it is an image of both God and man”. The painter was bad at Latin and made several mistakes. The original can be see at the Cultural History Museum in Bergen, but a copy is inside the church.

    Kinsarvik Church

    However, my favourite part of the interior of the church is the artwork on the walls. I’ve been lucky enough to go inside Kinsarvik Church, and I was taken away by the interior artwork. The church used to be whitewashed, but someone scraped away some of the plaster. A piece of painting from the Middle Ages came to light.

    The painting on the south wall shows a bishop and is painted from floor to ceiling. Meanwhile, on the north wall, there is the archangel Michael. Underneath is a devil who is trying to tip the scales over to their side with a boat shake.

    Michael and the weight of the soul were a common motif in Danish chalk painting in the Middle Ages, but this is the only one of its kind in Norway. I remember the priest telling us that he wished they’d remove it because modern churchgoers don’t exactly want to see a giant devil, but I kind of hope they keep it!

    Kinsarvik Church

    Church Legends

    There is a prediction that the church will collapse during a service. This almost happened on the 7th of May 1865, right after Reverend Irgrens had finished his sermon the church began to shake. Cracks in the walls widened and chalk sprinkled down from the walls. People panicked and tried to get out, and some were injured (though not seriously). The pastor then used it to give a speech that no one can escape from Gods will.

    Another event that happened here was in December 1793, when a major flood hit the region. At Kinsarvik Church, a large part of the cemetery was washed away by water and the coffins floated out into the fjord. Legend says that the Engel Simonson Ringøy, who died in 1739, floated ashore in his boat dock on Ringøy. The coffins were brought back in and placed under the floor of the church. Under the floor of the choir is a crypt where parish priest Løgit, his wife and children lie.

    Visiting Kinsarvik Church

    Unfortunately the church is not usually open to the public, but they do host special concerts and events there. Otherwise, it is possible to park by the church and admire it from the outside.

    You can view events on their website here: https://ullensvang.kyrkjer.no/Kyrkjelydane/Kinsarvik

    As you can see, Kinsarvik Church is a fascinating historic building that is tucked away in this resort village.

    It’s easy to visit here if you are taking the ferry across to Utne – the ferry is about a 1 minute walk from the church. Click here for my article about Utne.

    Have you visited the church? Let me know in the comments!

    The Rv13 Highway

    Kinsarvik is located on the Rv13 highway. You can find my guide to the Rv13 by clicking the link below. 

    The Rv13 Highway
    Eidfjord Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide
  • Stockholm, Sweden, Walking Guides

    A Self-Guided Walk Around Södermalm

    A Self-Guided Walk Around Södermalm

    I’ve never been a huge fan of Stockholm. I’ve always found it too big and crowded for my liking. However, every time I visit I find myself liking it a little bit more. Back in February of this year I went to Stockholm to do some research and met up with one of my friends, who lives in Södermalm. She took me on a walk around the neighbourhood and I fell in love. The neighbourhood doesn’t get the crowds that Gamla Stan does, and Södermalm has just as much history. 

    Södermalm is where you can find beautiful churches, street art, and some of the only remaining wooden buildings in central Stockholm. Södermalm is also popularly nicknamed ‘Sofo’ has it has become a gentrified, hipster neighbourhood. 

    So, if you want to see Stockholm beyond the ‘touristy’ areas, I strongly recommend this walk. 

    Here’s my self-guided walk to Södermalm. 

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    Visit Our YouTube Channel

    Downloadable Version of This Guide

    I offer downloadable versions of my self-guided walks on my online store. 

    View at the Store

    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the city
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos

    In this article...

    Stockholm Travel Guide
    Sweden Travel Guide

    Södermalm, a brief history.

    Södermalm is one of the oldest places in Stockholm with roots back to the 13th century, when the city was founded. However, compared to Gamla Stan, which is the oldest settlement in Stockholm and was for the merchants, Södermalm was a workers neighbourhood with factories and accommodation for the lower-middle class. Its tasks involved providing pasture for the citizens cattle but also shipyards and manufacturing businesses. 

    When Stockholm began to experience a huge population boom in the 16th century, Södermalm and Norrmalm (where the central station and shopping area is today) were incorporated into Stockholm and Södermalm was developed. King Gustav II Adolf was aware of the urban ideals of the Renaissance style and had Södermalm laid out in an organised grid style. 

    During the industrialisation of the 19th century, Södermalm became an urbanised, working-class neighbourhood. 

    After World War II, Norrmalm was torn down to make way for modern concrete and glass buildings. Södermalm avoided this redevelopment and remains largely preserved with many of the old buildings still standing. 

    Södermalm today

    Today around 130,000 people live here. Södermalm is considered to be a gentrified neighbourhood with significant shopping and expensive housing. 

    Södermalm Self-Guided Walk

    Note that I have used images from three separate test walks I did – snow in February, sun in July, and rain in October. 

    Begin: Hilton Slussen or Slussen Metro Station

    Today around 130,000 people live here. Södermalm is considered to be a gentrified neighbourhood with significant shopping and expensive housing. 

    Stockholm City Museum

    The Stockholm City Museum is located by the Slussen metro stop. It is a museum that collects, documents, and presents material about Stockholm’s history. 

    The building is the old Södra Stadshuset, or the Södra City Hall, which was built in 1663 based on drawings by city architect Nicodemus Tessin. The building was supposed to be a centre for merchants, but became a town hall instead. 

    Götgatan

    Götgatan was laid out during the new planning regulations in the 1640s. ‘Götgatan’ means ‘the street lead leads to Gotaland’, Gotaland being a region in the south of Sweden. 

    Götgatan used to be one of Stockholm’s major cinema streets. A total of 10 cinemas were located here, though not at the same time.

    The first cinema was a silent cinema from 1909. Today only two cinemas remain; Victoria (opened 1936) and Gota Lejon (opened 1928).

    Part of the street is pedestrianised. The goal is to give pedestrians and cyclists more space to create a safer, more vibrant environment.

    Dutch Embassy

    The building is an example of a ‘Målmgarder’. This word refers to types of buildings built during the 17th and 18th centuries as manor-like houses used as summer or leisure houses for the nobility and middle class. They were also gardens, where everything including exotic plants and medicinal herbs were grown. The gardens often had a gazebo for outdoor parties. There are only 38 preserved ‘Målmgarder’ left in Stockholm, and most of them are in Södermalm.

    Mosebacke Torg

    We have made it to Mosebacke Torg, or the Mosebacke Square. The square was laid out after a fire in 1857, when many of the properties here burned to the ground. 

    The area of Mosebacke has always been associated with entertainment, with inns being built in the 18th century for concerts. Södra Teatern is located here and is a popular theatre in Stockholm. 

    Mosebacke Water Tower

    The Mosebacke Water Tower was a water reservoir. It was designed by architect Ferdinand Boberg and completed in 1896.

    The purpose of the tower was to increase the water pressure for Katarinaberget’s (Katarina Hill – where we are now) higher buildings in relation to the general low-pressure network. The tower is clad with red brick from Helsingborg, a city in the southwest of Sweden.

    Underneath it is the pump house with a coat of arms of St. Erik at the entrance. The tower was taken out of use in 1960. Only the facility under the tower functions as a pumping station, while the tower has been converted from a machinist’s residence to a private residence.

    Svartensgatan

    The streets oldest name is Fiskaregatan from 1646, but it got its name Svartens gatan in the 1840s. The origin of the name is not completely clear but could come from the church attendant in Katarina Church Johan Anersson Schwart who died in 1674.

    The street has several important buildings. There are eight well-preserved houses from the 18th and 19th centuries.

    Os Gemeo’s Mural

    The work is by the twin brothers from Brazil called Otavio and Gustavo Pandolfo – their artist name is Os Gemeos. The painting is subject to planning permission and according to the decision from June 2017 it may remain for a maximum of five years. After that, the wall will be resorted by being painted over with a neutral tone.

    Svartensgatan 32 & 34

    Number 32 is the red building, while number 34 is the yellow one. These are two residential buildings from the 18th century. The age of the stone house is unclear, while the wooden house was probably built shortly after the Katarina fire of 1723 and before 1736 when the city banned wooden houses.

    The fire of 1723 destroyed 500 buildings (448 of them were wooden) in central Södermalm and badly damaged the Katarina Church. The fire began in a mill. After the fire, they immediately began repairing the church. All the houses in the surrounding area were destroyed. Despite the introduction of a wooden building ban in 1736, the houses on Master Mikaels gata were built of wood.

    Drottningen Quarter

    Drottningen 5 is a culturally valuable property because it was built in the mid 18th century as an apartment building. The quarter ‘Drottningen’ (everything to our left) is important because a glass factory used to be here in the 1660s and employed around 40 people. Drottningen is referred to as the ‘glassworks quarter’ and, as you can tell, it was not regulated during the city planning in 1641 so it has many stairs and crooked roads.

    Katarina Church

    The Katarina Church was first completed in 1695 but unfortunately has been destroyed twice by fire. 

    The church was first destroyed by fire in 1723, and architect Goran Josuae Adelcrantz was tasked with rebuilding the church. The church got a larger tower and the facade was painted yellow; previously it was painted red. 

    The church burned for the second time on the 17th of May 1990. The tower collapsed and went through the church vault. The only parts that survived was the ceiling and the outer walls. Thankfully, the church silver and the valuable textiles were saved. 

    Investigations showed that an electrical fault had caused the fire. Although the church was insured, a lot of fundraising was done to ensure the church could be completed. The reconstruction was done with the same technology and material used on the 17th century church. 

    During the 1670s, the famous Katarina witch trial took place here. It is one of the most famous witch trials in Sweden. The trial resulted in eight people being executed for witchcraft, one person committing suicide in prison, and two more people sentenced to death.

    The church is built according to a Greek cross plan with the tower centrally located. When it opened in the 17th century, it became the first central church in Sweden. A chapel has been on the site since the 1300s. 

    Drottningen 4

    The building is located at Högbergsgatan 14. It was constructed in stages in the 1750s and 1830s. The oldest part was built for the tower keeper in the Katarina Church, Sven Grafman. When master shoemaker Jonas Wilhelm Gusten owned the building in the 1750s, he had it extended to the west. In 1838, the building had acquired its current appearance.

    Mäster Mikaels Gata

    Mäster Mikaels gata is one of the best-preserved streets showcasing old Stockholm. The street name is new; when the main road Renstiernas gata was blown into a deep ditch at the beginning of the 20th century, the then Fjällgatan was divided into two. The eastern part kept its name, while the western part became Master Mikaels gata.

    Mikael was Stockholm’s executioner, who worked at the nearby gallows on Stigberget. He lived in this quarter. “Master” was a common title for an executioner. 

    He is one of the few executioners to get the job without committing any crime. A common way of recruiting executioners was to pardon a man condemned to death on the condition they put on the master’s hood. He was in charge of the ‘Rackare’, the executioner’s servant. The servants job was to set the place for the execution, picked up the dead and buried them in gallows hill.

    Mikael broke the law when he let a criminal man live in his house. He was sentenced for this but continued to associate with the man. On one fateful occasion, they drank too much brandy and had a falling out. It ended with the man lying dead in the doorway. Mäster Mikael was beheaded by his successor.

    This area was destroyed during the fire of 1723. Even though building in wooden houses was banned, the houses that line Mäster Mikaels gata were built of wood. They were completed in 1729. The houses were all bought by Stockholm at the turn of the century in 1900. They are now part of a so-called reserve that is owned and managed by AB Stadsholmen.

    Fjällgatan 16

    Fjällgatan 16 is Europe’s smallest theatre. Called ‘Teater Dur & Moll’ (Theatre Major and Minor), it was established by Gen Hedberg who wanted to set up a small theatre for adults. The theatre opened in 1996 and Gen Hedberg is still the theatre director and sole actor. The theatre is 34 square metres and can accommodate 20 people. The building is from the 1720s.

    Viewpoint over Stockholm

    We have now made it to the most famous viewpoint in Stockholm. From here you can see Gamla Stan (to your left) and Djurgården (to your right). On the far left you’ll see Slussen; where we began the walk. 

    Fjällgatan 40

    The wooden house here was built shortly after the major fire of 1723. The house was lived in by a number of merchants and skippers before being abandoned in the 1980s since it had no electricity or running water. It has since been carefully restored by AB Stadsholmen.

    Ersta Sjukhus

    Ersta Sjukhus (First Hospital) began operations in 1864. It was partly a hospital for the poor and partly the first nursing school in Sweden. It was expanded towards the end of the 19th century. A new hospital is currently under construction south of the old one. Demolition and excavation work began in 2020.

    Sågargatan

    This street is first mentioned in history in 1781, and the name probably comes from the sawyers who sawed planks and woods for the shipbuilding industry. They lived in this area. The street was originally a steep hill that was widened and lowered in the early 20th century. The red houses indicate how high the road used to be. 

    Skeppargränd

    Skeppargränd is also lined with these cultural and historical houses that are managed by AB Stadsholmen. Most of the houses here were built in the 1720s on plots that were laid out in the 1680s.

    Bondegatan

    We are now crossing Bondegatan, which has been here since the middle of the 17th century. It refers to the transport companies that had established their businesses on this street. “Bonde” means farmer, which may refer to the type of people who lived here. If you want to explore this street further, there are some heritage-listed red wooden houses on this street as well (go to number 44).

    Vita Bergen

    Vita Bergen, or the White Mountains, is the name of the hilly park where the church stands today. The name probably derives from the light colour of the bedrock on the previously bare mountain. During the 18th century, poor people who worked in the textile factories settled on the rugged terrain of the mountains. August Strindberg described the area as “the city’s poorest and most destitute area” in the novel Röda rummet from 1879.

    Many of the houses were demolished in the early 20th century to make way for the Sofia Church and the establishment of the park. Some of the old wooden houses remain, and we’ll see them a little later.

    Sofia Kyrka

    The church was designed by architect Gustaf Hermansson after an architectural competition in 1899. The building is in the Rhindeland transitional Romanesque style. King Oscar II laid the foundation stone on the 15th of May 1903 and four years later the church was inaugurated. It is named after Oscar’s wife, Queen Sofia.

    The church is a central church from which four cross arms of equal length extend out. In the eastern transept is the chancel, while in the western transept is the main entrance. The walls are made of light red granite with elements of darker sandstone.

    Mäster Pers grand

    The name is fairly modern. It was established in 1928 and is named after Master Peder, the first vicar of the Katarina parish. In this area are around twenty wooden houses from the 18th and 19th centuries, and these were the lower classes because of the rugged terrain.

    Mäster Pers grand 1 was the last one to be modernised. A man called Alrik Sundberg had lived here since 1928 and did just find without electricity, water or a sewerage system. Water was fetched from a nearby pump. After his death, AB Stadsholmen modernised the building.

    Bergsprängargränd

    The name comes from 1806 and means ‘rock blaster’, referring to the profession of the person who lived on this street. Otherwise, mainly shipyard and port workers lived here. They had large families, and these wooden houses were among the most dilapidated and poor in Södermalm. For example, in 1897, two dock worker families consisting of four adults and two children lived in a one-room cottage that had a floor area of 12m2 and a roof height of 1.8 metres.

    SoFo

    The area here is known as SoFo (the area south of Folkungagatan) and it is today regarded as the trendiest neighbourhood in Stockholm. You can find a guide to SoFo and all the trendy shops, cafes and restaurants via the link sofo-stockholm.se

    As we’ve seen on this walk, Södermalm was once known as the ‘slum’ area of Stockholm with cramped, dilapidated wooden houses built on rugged, undesirable terrain. However, today Södermalm is known as the home of bohemian, alternative culture.

     The growing demand for housing in Stockholm, as well as the increased gentrification of Stockholm’s inner city neighbourhoods, has driven up prices in Södermalm, making it one of the most expensive neighbourhoods in the city. What was once a working-class neighbourhood is now a neighbourhood for the privileged.

    Södermannagatan

    This street is part of the SoFo area and has lots of cafes, second-hand shops, and fashion stores. At the end of the street, we’ll see the wooden building I mentioned back at Bondegatan. These houses were built before 1748.

    The neighbourhood has the name Bonde because of the farmers who, in connection with their visit to Stockholm would use these houses as accommodation.  

    End of the walk!

    I hope you enjoyed this walk in Sodermalm through its past and present. 

    Stockholm Travel Guide
    Sweden Travel Guide
  • Bodø, Gildeskål, Norway, Ørnes

    Visiting Gildeskål’s Historic Church Site

    Visiting Gildeskål’s Historic Church Site

    The Gildeskål Old Church Site was one of the hidden surprises for me when I was on the Coastal Road from Brønnøysund to Bodø. I love historic sites in Norway, and I was completely unaware of the religious and historic important in this tiny remote settlement just south of Bodø. The location is just so beautiful and the complex itself is very interesting, so I recommend adding this to your coastal road-trip!

    Here is some historic information about Gildeskål to help you plan your visit.

    Norway's Coastal Road

    Gildeskål is located on the Fv17, also known as Norway’s coastal road. You can find my guide to the Fv17 by clicking the link below. 

    The Fv17 Highway
    BodØ Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    In this article...

    Historic Importance of the Gildeskål Church Site

    This complex (Gildeskål kirkested in Norwegian) is incredibly well-preserved and is generally regarded as one of the best preserved church sites in Northern Norway. The complex consists of a medieval stone church from the 1200s, the new church from 1881, the old rectory from the 1800s and two storehouses.

    The site history covers a period of over 1000 years. It is believed that the site was a gathering place in the pagan times. In fact, the ‘Gilde’ in Gildeskål means ‘feast’, so it’s likely that a pagan feast hall was located where the church or farm is today. Objects found here date back to the Viking Age, and the church was likely built by Vikings to crush the old pagan religion.

    Now let’s talk about each of the buildings.

    Gildeskål Old Church

    The highlight is (of course) the medieval stone church called ‘Gildeskål Old Church’, which is generally regarded as the best-preserved of the northern churches built in the Middle Ages.

    It’s believed the first church was built in wood in the 11th century, around the time Norway was becoming Christianised. It was common to build Christian churches on pagan worshipping sites in an attempt to convert the pagans.

    The church was later rebuilt as a stone church. This indicates how important the region of Gildeskål must’ve been, because stone was an incredibly expensive material to build with. Therefore, it was only used for the most important churches. Think of stave churches – they were built in wood and the only surviving ones are in very remote locations, where there was no need to rebuilt them in stone.

    It’s not known exactly when the stone church was built. After all, the church was first mentioned in written sources in 1589. However, the construction techniques on the oldest wall indicate that the church was built between 1130 and 1160. It is believed that the church is one of two stone churches King Øystein (1088-1123) had built when he travelled north in 1114.

    The church is like other stone churches built around the same time. It is built in a simple Romanesque style with arches and walls that are almost 1.5 metres thick.

    There are carved dragons heads on the ridge of the roofs that may have been a way of warding off pagan spirits, as seen on stave churches.

    The church did have a dome, but it was removed in 1890 when it was in danger of falling down.

    Cemetery

    The cemetery wall around the church is very interesting. Both it and the church are built in marble and mica slate that comes from the local area. The cemetery has been expanded many times, most recently in 1888. It is estimated that up to 10,000 people are buried in this cemetery.

    Church Interior

    Because the church was closed in the 1880s to make way for the new church, the interior has been incredibly well-preserved. For example, on three of the benches are the names of the farms in the village painted on them.

    At the far end of the aisle is a narrow bench called “the poor member” and was for church members who didn’t have their own farm.

    Hanging in the church is a ship from 1762. It has the name ‘Josva’ painted on it and is a model of a frigate that was a ship of the line in the Danish/Norwegian fleet.

    New Gildeskål Church

    In the mid-19th century, a law was passed in Norway that churches had to seat 30% of the congregation. Instead of expanded on the old stone church, a new wooden church was built next to it. The church was consecrated in 1881 and is built in a longhouse Gothic style. It sits on a hill overlooking the fjord.

    Inside the new church is the altarpiece from the old church; it dates back to 1713. On the ceiling, artist Harald Sund has painted a starry sky.

    Elias Blix

    The church is also known as the psalm composer Elias Blix’s old church. He was born here in Gildeskål in 1836. Elias Blix was a Norwegian theologian, hymn writer and politician. He wrote many hymns and was responsible for translating the New Testament into Nynorsk. He was a proponent of the Nynorsk language and wrote hymns in the language.

    Storehouses at the Rectory

    Rectory

    In the old rectory we find Gildeskål’s collection of relics from the old settlement. The main building is a 33m longhouse built in the 18th century. All the old buildings are listed. It is still used as a service residence for the parish priest.

    The two stone houses adjacent to the building are from the middle of the 18th century.

    Memorials on the cultural trail, plus the incredible view!

    Walk the Cultural Trail

    There is a short cultural trail that goes from the old church down to the waterfront. Along the way, you can see burial mounds, old stone cairns, and the old path that people would take from the piers up to the church. The flora in the area is known for being unique for this far north; there are a number of orchid species here.

    The view from the new church is lovely – you can see islands and even shipwrecks!

    Gildeskål Cultural Trail

    1. Gildeskål Old Church
    2. Gildeskål Main church
    3. Gildeskål Rectory
    4. Gildeskål Village meeting place
    5. Old Church Stone pathway towards Inndyr
    6. Burial Mounds
    7. Boat piers
    8. Jetty
    9. Stone Pier
    10. Eider House

    A very detailed website for the cultural trail has been made, which you can view here: https://gildeskal.vandringen.no/no

    The Village Inndyr

    The Gildeskål Church Site is located just north of the village Inndyr. Inndyr was historically an important shipping port. It is located on the old shipping channel and has a shipyard with a slipway for larger boats, a mechanical workshop, concrete mixing plant and several small businesses.

    It is known that Inndyr has been a lively community since the Middle Ages. The Inndyr Homestead is of great importance for the village as it was both a residence for the nobility as well as a productive farm.

    Another building of interest is Angellgården, which is in the centre of the village. The house is gorgeous; it dates from 1590 and was originally built as a dowager house. The building was moved to its present location in 1760 and it was extended.

    You can find more information about the unique architecture of Angellgården here: https://arkitekturguide.uit.no/items/show/1085

    You’ll pass it on the road to Gildeskål Church, but note that the building is now painted red (in the pictures it’s yellow).

    The Church Site Today

    Today the Gildeskål Church Site is managed by the Nordlands Museum, which opens the properties during the summer months for visitors.

    Visiting Gildeskål

    The site is located approximately 3km (2 miles) north of Inndyr. It is about 10km (6 miles) off the Fv17, which is the Coastal Tourist Road running from Brønnøysund to Bodø. Signs on the highway indicate when to turn left and make your way towards Gildeskål.

    The complex is open from mid-June to mid-August daily from around 11am to 4pm.

    You can visit the museum site here: https://nordlandsmuseet.no/no/museumsanlegg/gildeskaal

    If you want to spend some time in Gildeskål, here are some places that you can visit: https://kystriksveien.no/places/gildeskaal/highlights/?lang=en

    There is a parking lot on the property close to the old church.

    Norway's Coastal Road

    Gildeskål is located on the Fv17, also known as Norway’s coastal road. You can find my guide to the Fv17 by clicking the link below. 

    The Fv17 Highway
    BodØ Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide
  • Balestrand, Bergen, European Highways, Road-trips, Sogndal, Sognefjord

    Drive it Yourself: Bergen to Balestrand on the E39

    Drive it Yourself: Bergen to Balestrand on the E39

    This drive really grew out of boredom. I was tired of always doing the same road out of Bergen. Follow the E16 towards Oslo. Surely there’s more to Bergen than that!

    The area north of the city always felt like a mystery to me, and it was one I wanted to explore.

    Balestrand, on the other hand is a place I knew very well. I have met many travellers who have passed through Balestrand as an alternative to touristy Flåm, and they loved it. I was curious – what was Balestrand like? Was it was amazing as I was hearing?

    So off we go. Exploring the hidden north above Bergen before visiting one of the most popular fjord towns in the country. 

    This drive was a delight. It’s so diverse and so scenic. The best part is that it doesn’t get crowded with tourists. 

    Be sure to combine it with the Gaulafjellet Tourist Road. 

    In this article...

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    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Information about facilities along the way

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    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the region & towns
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Facilities including supermarkets, toilets, petrol, hotels, cafes, restaurants with addresses.

    Watch on Youtube

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    The drive: Bergen to Balestrand

    Bergen

    This drive begins in Bergen, the second-largest city in Norway. You can read our detailed guide to Bergen via the button below. 

    Bergen Travel Guide

    Nordhordland Bridge

    Bridge

    The bridge that we are going to cross first is the Nordhordland Bridge, a combined cable-stayed and pontoon bridge. It is 1.6km long. Plans have existed for the bridge since the 1960s, but it wasn’t funded until 1989. Construction started in 1991 and it opened in 1994. The bridge is the second-longest in Norway. 

    The floating section is a steel box girder bridge with ten pontoons, and it is like this because of the fjord’s depth. The fjord end of the main span is supported by a 30m (98ft) deep foundation, where the two bridges meet. It is the second pontoon bridge to be built in Norway. 

    The European Highway 39 is sometimes referred to as the coastal highway. It starts on the south coast of Norway, close to Kristiansand, and then follows the coast all the way up to Trondheim. There are many ferries along the road because the road practically hugs the coastline. 

    Alver Municipality

    Alver is a municipality just north of Bergen. Mongstad is Norway’s largest oil refinery, owned by Equinor and Shell, and is in the municipality. It is important to the business life here. Petrol, diesel oil, jet fuel and other products are produced at the factory and then sent abroad.  

    Knarvik

    Town

    The town we can see is Knarvik, the administrative centre of Alver. The E39 runs right through the middle of the village, cutting it into two. On the north is the Knarvik Senter, the largest shopping centre in the region. The southern part is older with its original buildings and shops. Knarvik has schools, a church, and an active community. The Knarvik upper secondary school is one of the county’s largest. 

    Before the 1970s, the community didn’t have more than 30 people in it. However, the council decided that Knarvik should be built up as a regional centre, and this caused the population to grow quickly. Because of this, Knarvik isn’t a very historic town, and the city centre does look a little 1970s. Now they are redoing the road, so it’s going to look like a messy construction site. 

    Masfjorden Municipality

    Masfjorden is a small municipality around the Masfjorden (a fjord). The entire municipality has a population of around 1,630 people. Masfjorden is an industrial municipality with construction, power, and water companies. There are large hydropower resrouces here because of the mountains and high rainfall. 

    Matre

    Town

    Matre is a small village with around 100 people living here. The Institute for Marine Research has a research station here. There is a fantastic museum here called the Bjørn West Museum, which shows the resistance struggle during World War II. 

    Gulen Municipality

    Gulen is a historic municipality. In historic times, the region was strategically located to both Hordaland (where Bergen is) and Sunnfjord (close to Ålesund). This was also the starting point for sailing into the Sognefjord. Finds from the Stone Age, Iron Age and Bronze Age indicate that this area has been used for thousands of years. 

    In Gulen was the Gulatinget, a place where chieftains and farmers from Western Norway gathered to settle legal disputes and pay homage to Norwegian hereditary kings. The ‘ting’ was established in 930 and the Gulating took place here for 400 years, when it was moved to Bergen. The kings, lords, and landowners met once a year and the hearing was governed by the appointed lawman. The Gulatinget is one of the most important institutions in older Norwegian history. The Gulating Act applied to most of Western Norway, the mountain areas of Valdres and Hallingdal, and the Faroe Islands and Shetland. The Gulating Act was considered one of the freest and most democratic laws in Europe 1,000 years ago. The laws in Norway today are based on the old Gulating laws. It is possible to visit the Gulatinget site today. 

    Gulen was important in the Christianisation of Western Norway. The first cross stood here before it was moved to the church Håkon Håkonsson built at Kyrkjehaugen. The areas importance eventually declined but remained an important agricultural area for the region. Gulen has many cultural relics from the Stone and Bronze Ages along the coast, and from the Viking Age around Eivindvik. There are also many old stone-built houses. 

    Otherwise, the municipality is important for agriculture and fishing. Fish farming is especially important to the community. The climate is like Bergen but snowier. 

    Oppedal - Lavik Ferry

    Ferry

    This is a short 20 minute ferry trip across the Sognefjord. 

    Høyanger Municipality

    Høyanger is part of the traditional region of Sogn, which surrounds the Sognefjord. Høyanger is known as having one of the first industrial towns in Norway. The steep mountains and rainfall were used for producing hydroelectricity needed for electrolysis. The main product produced here is aluminium. 

    The Sognefjord divides the municipality and is the fjord you will be following for the rest of the journey. The Sognefjord is Norway’s longest and deepest fjord, reaching 205km long and 1303m deep. The Sognefjord is the third-longest fjord in the world. 

    Aven

    Town

    Aven is a small village with around 15 people living here. The name comes from the word ‘vin’, which meant fertile plain in the Viking Age. There has been a settlement here for over 1,000 years but experienced depopulation after the Second World War. 

    Vadheim

    Town

    Vadheim is a small village with a population of around 238. 

    Høyanger

    Town

    Høyanger is a small settlement with around 1,983 people living there. It is an industrial town with an industrial park. The Høyanger Aluminium Works produces raw aluminium. There is also a car rim factory that supplies rims to the car factory Audi. 

    Sogndal Municipality

    Sogndal is a relatively new municipality; it was a merger between several different municipalities, including the old Balestand municipality. Sogndal is an old place and archaeological excavations show that people have been living here as far back as 700BC. Since ancient times, agriculture has been the most important trade. Fruit, especially apples, has been grown back as far as written sources.

    Sogndal emerged as an industrial community towards the end of the 19th century. There has been a matchstick factory here and later a wool mill and then a bottling plant for softdrinks and fruit juices. A hydroelectric plant was built here in 1911 and was one of the first ones to be built in rural Norway. 

    Balestrand

    Balestrand is the last stop on today’s drive and a perfect place to spend some time if you want to enjoy the fjords. Balestrand has been a well-known tourist spot since the end of the 1800s.

    Balestrand is home to Kviknes Hotel, a historic hotel from 1877. This hotel is where Kaiser Wilhelm II received the message about the outbreak of the First World War. The church has been owned by the Kvikne family ever since it opened. The hotel has 195 rooms.

    St. Olafs Church is a well-known wooden church from 1897. It is often known as the English church because one of the English tourists who visited in the 19th century, climbing pioneer Margaret Sophia Green, enjoyed the Norwegian mountains so much that she married the innkeeper of Kviknes Hotel, Knut Kvikne, and moved to the area. Sadly, she contracted tuberculosis and died in 1894. On her deathbed, she told her husband that she had a dream that an English church would be built in Balestrand.

    Knut Kvikne allocated a big plot of land close to the hotel and, with the generous help of monetary gifts from two American women, built the church. The church is designed to look like a stave church.

    Balestrand is also where you can visit an apple farm called Ciderhuset to go on a tour or buy some cider. There is also the Norwegian Reiselivsmuseum, or the Museum of Tourism in Norway, and the Sognefjord Aquarium. Tours on the fjord and to a nearby glacier can be organised from Balestrand.

    Balestrand Travel Guide
  • Førde, National Tourist Roads, Road-trips, Sognefjord

    Drive it Yourself: The Gaularfjellet Tourist Road

    Drive it Yourself: The Gaularfjellet Tourist Road

    Gaularfjellet is a mountain area that separates the traditional regions of Sogn and Sunnfjord. The mountains reach as high as 1,615 metres. The tourist road has been open since 1938 and is very popular because of the rapid transition from fjord to mountain. For many, though, it is still a well-kept secret as it is not as popular or well-known as the other tourist roads.

    The road was established as a tourist road because of its high number of waterfalls but also the engineering that went into building a road over the mountains.

    We decided to do this drive after heading to Balestrand for the day from Bergen. This tourist road isn’t as talked about as the others that I’ve been on, so I was curious to see exactly what it was like. I must admit – it was pretty neat! It’s not as spectacular as, say, Trollstigen or Hardanger, but there’s something charming about this tourist road. Maybe it’s because no one really knows about it. It’s much shorter than the other tourist roads, but in that short amount of time you’ll see some spectacular country. 

    In this article...

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    Watch on Youtube

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    The drive: Gaularfjellet Tourist Road

    Balestrand

    This drive begins in Balestrand, a scenic tourist town by the Sognefjord. 

    Balestrand Travel Guide

    Dragsvik

    Settlement

    Located just outside Balestrand, Dragsvik is a resort hotel and ferry pier. The ferry connects the settlement to the other side of the Sognefjord. The hotel has both cabins and rooms, and they provide lots of information about hikes in the region. 

    Gaularsfjellet Viewing Platform

    Photo stop

    The viewpoint opened in 2016. The viewpoint is a construction that has three ‘wings’ where you can take in unobstructed views over the mountains. There’s also a restroom here.

    Sunnfjord Municipality

    Sunnfjord is a traditional district and municipality. The central geographic characteristic of the region are the fjords and outdoor activities, including fishing, white-water rafting, and glaciers.

    Førde

    Førde is a town built up around the river Jølstra at the point where it flows into the Førdefjord. The town is surrounded by mountains, as we can see. Around 10,500 people live in Førde, making it a relatively large town for the region. There are schools at all levels here, as well as a major hospital. There is also a small airport.

    Førde is an administrative centre, so it has all the facilities for the surrounding area. The town does have a slight industrial feel; it has often been voted by Norwegians as one of the ugliest towns in Norway. This is mostly due to the neighbourhood of Øyrane, which sits on the fjord by the river and was developed as a shipyard in the 1970s.

    Førde Travel Guide

    Where to Go From Here

    Førde is located on the E39, which links Bergen to Ålesund. We have written a guide to the drive from Bergen north along the E39, which you can view below. 

    Bergen to Balestrand on the E39

    You can get a printable version of this drive over on our online store. 

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!