Tromsø

  • Exploring Street Art in Bodø

    Exploring Street Art in Bodø

    At first glance, Bodø may come across as a rather ‘regular’ medium-sized town in Norway. Many try to get to Lofoten or Saltstraumen as quickly as possible. However, I personally love Bodø; it’s a town undergoing a revival and explosion of cultural offerings, and every time I go there, I’m impressed by the new shops, restaurants, statues, and, of course, street art! The street art in Bodø has gained somewhat of a reputation, and you may be looking to find these pieces during your visit. If so, here is my guide to the street art in Bodø!

    In this article...

    Street Art Map

    I’ve put together a map that shows where you can find the best artworks in Bodø. I haven’t included them all in this article as I don’t have photos of all of them; I did use photos from other sources for a couple of the ‘major’ pieces. 

    About Street Art in Bodø

    Street art in Bodø has gained significant attention in recent years, positioning the city as a hub for vibrant public art in Scandinavia. Bodø’s street art scene has gained international acclaim, attracting tourists and art enthusiasts. The city was named the European Capital of Culture in 2024, further cementing its role as a cultural hotspot, with street art contributing significantly to this achievement.

    UpNorth Festival

    It all began when Bodø hosted the UpNorth Festival in 2016. The festival featured renowned street artists from around the world, leaving behind a lasting legacy of large-scale murals and installations that transformed the cityscape. These works paint a vivid picture of urban expression, and most of them were inspired by the nature and culture around Bodø.

    NorlandiART

    NorlandiART is another project designed to encourage street art in Bodø, with a focus on celebrating the history and traditions of the county Nordland. The project began with the artist Are Andreassen bringing 21 of his colleagues from Nordland County on a volunteer project where large parts of Bodø were transformed into a gigantic outdoor gallery. NordlandiART is designed to explore questions related to the importance of place for artists and their creative production.

    You can learn more about the project here: https://www.norlandiart.no/

    Street Artworks

    After School

    Address: Kongens gate 18

    After School is by the Russian Artist Rustam Qbic. It covers an entire wall and shows a child spraying the northern lights into the sky with a spray can. 

    Insomnia

    Address: Dronningens gate 15

    Insomnia is by the Italian artist Millo (Instagram). It reflects Bodø’s 24-hour summer light. Painted under the midnight sun, this vast mural shows everyday figures and buildings in crisp black-and-white lines, with only occasional touches of colour. Millo often paints whimsical urban scenes; here, the effect is dreamy and surreal.

    Butterfly

    Address: Across the street from Insomnia, on Havnegata. 

    Butterfly is by the artist Martin Whatson. This artwork is one of the newer ones in Bodø and was painted in 2018. (Photo source – weirdly I’ve never taken a photo of this one!)

    Phlegm

    Address: Sjøgata 18

    Phlegm is a British graffiti artist who first developed his art in self-published comics. Many of his images feature childlike or menacing creatures that you’d see in storybooks. The work is reminiscent of depictions of mythical creatures from Norwegian nature and traditional images of trolls. I like the detail of the mountains on his back. Phlegm’s work is entirely monochrome and alternately charming and menacing – a signature look developed from his fantasy comics

    Maelstrom

    Address: Moloveien 20

    Maelstrom is by the artist David de la Mano from Spain (Instagram). This artwork is inspired by the world’s strongest maelstrom, Saltstraumen, located approximately 30 minutes outside Bodø. The artwork is situated near a busy street and is easily visible.

    Need a Helping Hand?

    Address: Between Bankgata going on Sjøgata

    Ståle Gerhardsen is a Norwegian artist from Trondheim, born in 1980, known for his vibrant and whimsical street art that brings joy and contemplation to urban landscapes across Norway and beyond. His work spans murals, paintings, sculptures, illustrations, and installations, often characterised by playful imagery and a focus on mental health, inclusion, and everyday life.

    He has a lovely blog article about this artwork and similar ones around Norway: https://charmpam.com/2022/06/02/search_for_street_art_in_bodo/ 

    This is also where I got the photo from 🙂

    John Lennon

    Address: Sjøgata

    This is one of the newer pieces in town. The festival “Arts of Democracy” was held in September 2024, and an anonymous art collective from Bergen was hired to put up pieces around the city. 

    Street Artworks That No Longer Exist

    As Bodø undergoes a lot of redevelopment thanks to the growth the town is seeing, sadly, some street artworks are covered up by modern buildings. I thought I’d showcase them here anyway, because they are still beautiful pieces of art!

    A Kiss Between Cultures

    A Kiss Between Cultures is by the artist Animalito (Instagram). This one was always my favourite to show, so it’s a shame it’s now covered up by apartments. It depicted a Norwegian Sami and an Argentine child from the Andes, both dressed in their traditional attire, playing with a deer and a llama. 

    Golden Eagle

    Golden Eagle is by the artist Dzia and was located where the tourist office used to be. 

  • The Complete Guide to Saunas in Norway

    The Complete Guide to Saunas in Norway

    Sauna culture is thriving across Norway, with both locals and visitors embracing the classic hot-cold ritual in every season. From floating wood-fired saunas on scenic fjords to luxury hotel spa facilities, each city offers unique ways to sweat and then plunge into refreshing waters year-round.

    When I travel with groups, I’m finding increasingly that one of the top requests is to take a sauna. So, I figured I may as well put together a full list of saunas in Norway. I only included major destinations; you can find saunas almost anywhere in the country. 

    Below is a city-by-city guide to notable sauna options – including traditional wood-fired cabins, electric urban saunas, floating fjord saunas, mobile units, and luxury spa experiences – along with approximate price ranges (in Norwegian Krone, NOK) and booking info. All prices are current as of 2025 and are provided in NOK. Note that the prices vary a lot depending on the season and time of day, so do check their website for a more accurate price. 

    In this article...

    Oslo

    Oslo’s sauna scene is booming, blending urban culture with Nordic tradition. The Oslofjord is home to numerous floating saunas and waterfront facilities – a true all-year activity even in freezing winters. Sauna-bathing has become a signature Oslo experience, with both public drop-in saunas and private rentals available. I would say that of all these places, Oslo is where I first saw saunas really taking off. 

    KOK Oslo

    KOK offers wood-fired floating saunas at two central locations (Langkaia by the Opera and Aker Brygge). Each sauna holds up to 10 people and can be booked for 2-hour private sessions or 1.5-hour shared sessions. Prices start around NOK 1,280 for a private docked sauna (up to 10 people) and NOK 3,700 for a 2-hour fjord sauna cruise with an electric motor. Please note that prices vary depending on the time of day.

    Individuals can join a “FellesKOK” shared sauna for about NOK 320 per person (1.5 hours). These floating spa boats have changing rooms, stereo systems, and panoramic windows – perfect for a hot bake and a dip in the Oslofjord even in mid-winter.

    Oslo’s sauna scene is booming, blending urban culture with Nordic tradition. The Oslofjord is home to numerous floating saunas and waterfront facilities – a true all-year activity even in freezing winters. Sauna-bathing has become a signature Oslo experience, with both public drop-in saunas and private rentals available. I would say that of all these places, Oslo is where I first saw saunas really taking off. 

    SALT Sauna

    An outdoor art and culture venue by the Oslo harbour, SALT features 12 different saunas (with capacities ranging from 4 to 100 people) in a festival-like atmosphere, complete with bars, food, music, and even DJs on weekends.

    You can drop in to the public sauna area (which includes multiple large saunas, cold plunge pools, showers and a lounge) for 2.5-hour sessions. Tickets cost approximately NOK 205 on weekdays and NOK 255 on weekends for adults. Students and children receive discounts.

    Private sauna rentals are available too – e.g. a small “Barrel” sauna (4 ppl) for ~NOK 1,060, a larger “Naustet” cabin (6 ppl) for ~NOK 1,495, or a big barrel for 8 at ~NOK 1,990SALT operates year-round (early morning into late night); advance booking is recommended (via their site salted.no). The vibe is social and vibrant – you can sweat with locals, then cool off in the Oslo Fjord right outside.

    Oslo Sauna Association (Oslo Badstuforening)

    This member-based nonprofit has spawned an urban sauna revival in Oslo. They operate multiple floating saunas at 6–7 locations around the city’s waterfront – including at Sukkerbiten (near the Munch Museum) and Langkaia (Opera) – plus some mobile units that pop up at city beaches and even inland lakes (e.g. Hvervenbukta and Mariholtet).

    Shared drop-in sessions run daily (07:00–22:00) for approximately NOK 220–260 per person (1.5 hours) for non-members, while members pay around NOK 125–150. You’ll be sitting alongside locals in a communal atmosphere – a great chance to experience the Norwegian sauna ethos of fellesskap (togetherness).

    It’s also possible to rent entire saunas privately through the association’s booking system. Facilities are generally rustic: wood-fired stoves, small changing areas, and direct access to the fjord for swimming. Drop-ins often sell out, so I recommend reserving in advance if possible.

    Kongen Marina

    If you want to escape the city, Kongen Marina by Frognerkilen features a dome sauna, a glass sauna with 360-degree views. Kongen Marina is a fascinating place to visit anyway; described as a ‘Miami Vice’ style beach club, bar and restaurant, you’ll feel like you’re at a beach in Miami when you visit – maybe!

    Oslo Fjord Sauna

    Fjord CleanUP is an organisation that focuses on picking up litter from the seabed. They have two saunas, Huginn and Muninn, and they are located at the northern end of the Sørenga peninsula. All proceeds from the saunas go to the Fjord CleanUP project.

    For a full spa experience, some hotels offer saunas to guests, and just outside Oslo is “The Well”, a massive spa resort with every sauna type imaginable – Finnish, Turkish, Japanese and more – but within the city the above are the highlights

    Flåm

    Tiny Flåm, nestled at the end of Aurlandsfjord, now boasts a memorable fjordside sauna experience – perfect after a day on the Flåm Railway or fjord cruises. Sauna culture here is about enjoying the spectacular nature soothingly.

    FjordSauna Flåm

    A floating sauna cabin moored in Flåm’s harbour, operated by a local company in partnership with “Norway’s Best” (Flåm’s tourism arm). This modern, raft-like sauna features electric heating and boasts huge windows overlooking the fjord. It accommodates up to 12 people and is available either as a private booking (exclusive use) or a drop-in session, where individuals or couples can join others. Sessions are typically 1.5 hours.

    The private group price is approximately NOK 2,990 for up to 12 people (roughly NOK 250 per person if the group is full), while shared tickets cost around NOK 445 per person. The price includes a small sit-on towel and use of the changing facilities. Between sauna rounds, you can jump straight into the fjord via a ladder or even through a hatch in the floor – an exhilarating fjord bath in all seasons.

    This sauna operates year-round and is a must-do for truly soaking in Flåm’s scenery – imagine sweating in 80°C heat, then plunging into an icy fjord surrounded by snow-capped mountains!

    The historic Fretheim Hotel in Flåm also has a small indoor sauna and outdoor hot tub as part of its spa for overnight guests, but the floating FjordSauna is the primary option for visitors.

    Fjord Sauna also operates in the nearby town of Aurland.

    Bergen

    Bergen’s rainy weather hasn’t stopped a hot sauna scene from emerging. In fact, the combination of a steaming sauna and a cold dip in the North Sea is also increasingly popular here. The city offers both cosy wood-fired saunas on the fjord and public facilities for winter swimmers.

    Heit Sauna

    Heit (“hot” in Norwegian) is a company operating wood-fired floating saunas in Bergen. They have two main sites: one at Marineholmen, near the city centre, and another at Laksevåg, across the harbour, plus a new unit at Måseskjæret. Each location has raft-mounted sauna cabins with capacity for ~8–12 people.

    You can book either a shared drop-in session (50 minutes or 1h50m) or rent a private sauna for your group. Prices for a shared sauna start from ~NOK 159 per person (50 minutes) or NOK 279 for ~2 hours.

    Private bookings, which offer exclusive use for up to 10 people, start at around NOK 590 for two people (short session). Larger groups pay more, but it’s still quite affordable (e.g., 1 hour and 50 minutes for 10 people was advertised at around NOK 1,990). The saunas are wood-burning (Finnish-style stoves) and maintained at a temperature of ~60–80 °C.

    There are basic changing facilities on the pier, an outdoor cold shower, and ladders for sea swimming. Staff are on hand, and swimming is at your own risk but encouraged year-round (water temperature ranges from 3 °C in winter to 18 °C in summer). Heit even hosts special events, such as sauna yoga and Aufguss (steam rituals with essential oils).

    Nordnes Sjøbad (Sea Pool & Sauna)

    A Bergen institution, Nordnes Sjøbad is a public seawater pool located by the city fjord, which opens for winter bathing a few days a week during the off-season. It features indoor changing rooms and a sauna on-site.

    From mid-October to spring, hardy locals come here to alternate between the heated saltwater pool, chilling dips in the fjord, and time in the co-ed sauna. It’s a communal experience rather than a private rental. Entrance fees are modest, ranging from NOK 70 to 110 for adults for winter swim and sauna sessions, and are often free for Bergen students and alumni on certain days.

    If you’re looking to experience the Norwegian “ice bathing” trend in Bergen, this is the place – imagine dark winter evenings, 4 °C water, and a steamy sauna full of cheerful bathers.

    Check the schedule as it’s open limited hours in winter (typically Thursday evenings and Sunday mornings). No pre-booking needed for drop-in – pay at the door.

    City Sauna Bergen

    City Sauna Bergen offers a distinctive wellness experience by combining the traditional Norwegian sauna with the serenity of Bergen’s waterways. Situated at Damsgårdsveien 59, this floating sauna provides guests with panoramic views of the city’s picturesque landscape while they enjoy the therapeutic warmth of the sauna.

    The sauna offers drop-in sessions at specific times throughout the week. Prices start at 150 NOK per person for a one-hour session. They also offer private sauna rentals, with bookings available for 1 to 2 hours and accommodating up to 12 people. Private rentals vary from 1,000 NOK up to 4,200 NOK, depending on the group size. For those looking to combine relaxation with a scenic boat ride, the sauna cruise offers a 2-hour journey through Bergen’s waterways, suitable for groups of varying sizes. Prices start at 3,000 NOK.

    Vestfjord Sauna

    A new addition just outside Bergen centre, Vestfjordsauna has opened an innovative sauna with a Himalayan salt wall in the suburb of Kjøkkelvik (15 minutes west of downtown). This land-based sauna house is situated directly on the shore, offering a serene wellness experience. The facility can be booked for 1.5-hour sessions; you can either reserve a spot in a shared session or book the entire sauna privately.

    The sauna accommodates approximately 8–10 people and features a changing area, as well as easy ladder access to the sea. Prices are around NOK 219 per adult for a session (with slight discounts to ~NOK 198 pp for groups). The salt-block wall inside not only creates a unique ambience but also releases minerals that proponents say benefit respiration and skin. It’s heated and ready upon your arrival, with opening hours from 06:00 to 23:00 daily, year-round.

    Additionally, some Bergen hotels have sauna facilities – for example, Hotel Norge and others have small rooftop or gym saunas for guests. But for visitors looking to rent or drop-in, the above are the top choices. If you’re adventurous, Bergen’s surrounding areas even have “wild” saunas like a wood-fired one by Lake Grimevatnet or the artistic floating sauna “Flabellina” on Osterøy, but these are outside the city proper

    Stavanger

    In Stavanger and its surroundings, sauna culture is on the rise – often taking advantage of the beautiful Rogaland coastline. Options range from floating saunas in the city’s bays to wood-fired fjord saunas near famous landmarks.

    BookSauna Stavanger Saunas

    At Vaulen (a seaside park area in the city’s south), you’ll find a private floating sauna operated via BookSauna.no. It’s essentially a cosy, electrically heated sauna raft moored by the shore, with space for up to 8 people. The setting offers lovely views over Gandsfjorden and the surrounding mountains – a surprisingly tranquil nature escape within city limits. The sauna can only be rented privately, not per seat, but pricing is calculated per person: roughly NOK 225 per person for 1 hour, or NOK 300 per person for 2 hours, with a minimum charge equivalent to 4 people or more. You’ll have the floating cabin to yourselves – the stove will be hot on arrival, and free stand-up paddleboards are included to enhance the fun. Between sauna rounds, step off the raft for a bracing swim in the sea. Vaulen’s saunas operate year-round, whatever the weather (a winter snowstorm + sauna is an experience in itself!).

    Tenanger Floating Sauna

    Just outside Stavanger, in the harbour of Tananger, lies another wood-fired floating sauna affiliated with Hummeren Hotel. This sauna boat is moored at the hotel’s jetty and accommodates approximately 6–8 people (the hotel recommends 4 for optimal comfort) for 2-hour private sessions.

    The ambience is maritime – you enjoy views of the harbour basin and the North Sea coast. The sauna must be reserved in advance and comes with an attendant on-site for safety. There are no changing rooms on the raft itself, but hotel facilities, including changing rooms and showers, are available nearby for guests to use. After sweating in the “bådstue” (boat sauna), you can jump straight off the dock into the ocean, then warm up again inside – an invigorating cycle! The hotel can even serve drinks or food to complement your visit to the sauna.

    If you venture into the Ryfylke region just outside Stavanger, don’t miss the floating saunas at Preikestolen BaseCamp on Refsvatn Lake (a magical post-hike treat after visiting Pulpit Rock), or the farm sauna at Dirdal with fjord views. Preikestolen’s sauna rafts are wood-fired and accommodate ~6 people; prices were around NOK 500 for 90 minutes for a private group – a unique way to unwind in the wilderness. Additionally, some local gyms and spas in Stavanger, such as the SPA at Clarion Hotel or the Stavanger Swim Hall, offer traditional electric saunas; however, these are not available for private rental. The true Norwegian way is to go for one of the floating or wood-fired options above for an unforgettable all-season experience.

    Geiranger

    Geiranger is famed for its breathtaking fjord – and what better way to enjoy it than from a warm sauna? While Geiranger is a small village, it offers a luxurious spa experience at its historic hotel, along with occasional pop-up sauna events by the fjord. The top recommendation here is:

    Hotel Union Geiranger Spa

    This four-star hotel overlooking Geirangerfjord houses a comprehensive spa facility. While primarily for hotel guests, external visitors are welcome with a Day Spa pass, subject to availability (please call ahead).

    The spa area includes a large Finnish sauna with fjord views, a steam room, indoor and outdoor pools, a 42 °C Japanese hot bath, foot baths, and experience showers. It’s an indulgent, relaxing space – think dim lighting, a fireplace lounge, refreshments and that spectacular scenery outside. A Day Spa entry (10:00–19:00 access) costs NOK 800 for outside guests and includes a towel and robe, access to spa facilities, and a light breakfast buffet in the morning. An evening-only entry (16:00–19:00) is a bit cheaper (~NOK 500). If you book a spa treatment, such as a massage, the entry fee is waived. Once inside, you can sweat in the sauna, then cool off in the outdoor infinity pool or take a quick cold shower – or for the bold, step outside and breathe in the crisp fjord air on the terrace.

    Unlike the other locales, Geiranger currently doesn’t have dedicated public or floating saunas for rent beyond the Union Spa. Occasionally, cruise ships or tour groups set up a mobile sauna by the fjord for special events, but these are not regular occurrences. If you’re staying in self-catering cabins around Geiranger, some may have private saunas as well – for example, many of the Fjordsenter cabins include an electric sauna in the unit.)

    Ålesund

    Ålesund, with its Art Nouveau charm and Atlantic setting, now features one of Norway’s coolest new sauna attractions: SVAI Sauna, a floating sauna right in the heart of town. Locals and tourists alike are using it to combine wellness with the city’s maritime heritage.

    SVAI Sauna

    Opened in recent years, SVAI is a floating sauna house moored in central Ålesund (at Molja, near the iconic Brosundet canal). It’s designed to resemble the traditional fish-drying racks of the region, blending into the harbour landscape. SVAI’s sauna can accommodate up to 12 people and is available for private 2-hour bookings or individual drop-in tickets.

    It’s fully equipped with a changing room, cold shower, sound system, and huge windows for the “best view in town” – think panoramic outlooks to the sea and Ålesund’s mountain backdrop while you steam.

    Prices are straightforward: Drop-in sessions cost NOK 250 per person and typically last ~1 hour, while renting the entire sauna privately costs NOK 2,500 for 2 hours. Whether you go alone or with friends, you can alternate between the sauna’s intense heat and plunging straight into the Atlantic – a ladder on the side lets you climb back up easily. SVAI operates all year, 7 days a week (10:00–22:00), allowing you to enjoy a midnight sun or winter night session, complete with stars or the Northern Lights above. The atmosphere is social but relaxed – don’t be surprised if friendly locals strike up conversation during drop-in hours. Booking: via svaisauna.no (their official site) or through the local tourism office. It’s highly recommended to reserve in advance, especially during the summer when it’s particularly popular.

    Hotel Brosundet Sauna

    For a luxury twist, Hotel Brosundet – a design hotel on the canal – offers a petite indoor sauna for its guests and has even placed an exclusive seaside barrel sauna for private guest use along the water (check with the hotel for availability). While not open to the general public for booking, hotel guests can enjoy a boutique sauna experience followed by a dip in the cold seawater from their private ladder. If you’re staying there, it’s worth inquiring.

    If you venture slightly outside Ålesund, consider a trip to the island of Ellingsøya where some locals host a wood-fired sauna (check AirBnB Experiences), or drive to Molde (2 hours away) to see Nausta, an architect-designed floating sauna on the Molde fjord. But within Ålesund, SVAI is the star.

    Tromsø

    In the Arctic city of Tromsø, sauna bathing has become a beloved way to warm up and socialise, especially under the Northern Lights or Midnight Sun. Pust (meaning “Breath”) is the flagship sauna facility here, attracting international visitors year-round. Additionally, some hotels and locals offer unique sauna experiences.

    Pust

    Pust is a floating sauna platform right in Tromsø’s harbour. It features a distinctive wooden structure inspired by traditional fish racks, and boasts two sauna rooms: the “Original” sauna (seating 12, with a quiet atmosphere) and the larger “Lavvo” sauna (seating 16, with a Lavvu tent-inspired shape). Both are electrically heated and feature panoramic windows that face the Arctic Cathedral and fjord.

    Drop-in hourly sessions (public, mixed-gender) start at approximately NOK 120 per person and are highly affordable for a unique Arctic sauna and sea dip experience! Private Sauna bookings (exclusive use for your group) are available from NOK 3,000 per session. They also host guided “Sauna Rituals” with aromatherapy (approximately NOK 400 per person) and a 2-hour “Ice Bath like a Viking” package, where a sauna master leads you through hot-cold cycles, scrubs, and an ice plunge, for NOK 1,250

    Dunking into the Arctic Ocean here is not for the faint of heart – the water can be 4 °C or colder – but it’s incredibly refreshing and brag-worthy! Pust even offers student discounts and memberships for locals. Walk-ups are possible for drop-in sessions if there’s space available, but booking ahead is recommended, especially during the winter high season.

    Tromsø’s locals are creative – you might find pop-up mobile saunas towed to beaches like Telegrafbukta on sunny days, or even a wood-fired sauna boat occasionally docked for events.

    One consistent option is the Aurora Spa at Scandic Ishavshotel, which features a rooftop sauna and outdoor Jacuzzi overlooking the harbour, available to hotel guests or for a paid entry fee.

    The With Hotel also notably has a rooftop sauna with a panoramic window – some TripAdvisor reviews urge “don’t miss the sauna!” for its view of snowy mountains. These hotel saunas offer a more private and warm-up session after your outdoor adventures. While not generally rentable to outside visitors, staying overnight is a great bonus.

    Lastly, if you’re heading out of town on excursions, keep an eye out for tour companies that include a Sami tent sauna or a lakeside sauna (for example, some whale-watching tours offer a post-trip sauna in the fjords). In Tromsø, few things beat jumping into icy water under the green glow of the Northern Lights, then ducking into a hot sauna – a true Arctic bliss!

    Svolvær

    Svolvær in the Lofoten Islands offers sauna experiences with a spectacular backdrop of sea, mountains, and fishing cabins. Here you can enjoy both upscale private spa time and rustic floating sauna fun, all year round.

    Lofoten Sauna

    Lofoten’s first floating sauna has become a hit. Moored just off Svinøya (a short walk from Svolvær centre), the sauna is a wood-fired floating house with panoramic views of Svolvær harbour and the iconic “Svolværgeita” peak. It’s equipped with separate men’s and women’s changing rooms and an outdoor shower (hot/cold water) on the deck. Capacity is 12 people for public drop-in sessions and up to 20 people for private group bookings. You can drop in for a 1-hour session at NOK 195 per person, or rent the whole sauna for 2 hours at 3,000 NOK.

    The wood stove will be lit and ready by 09:00 each day, and sessions run into the evening (last booking around 21:00). Between rounds, take a fearless leap into the North Atlantic – they have ladders for easy in-and-out. The contrast of 80–90 °C sauna heat with the Arctic sea (which might be 4–14 °C depending on season) is as invigorating as it sounds! This floating sauna is open all year, so you can try it under the Midnight Sun or as snow falls on the fjord.

    Lyst Lofoten Sauna

    Lyst Lofoten Sauna is located in Svolvær, in the Lofoten archipelago of Norway. It offers a distinctive wellness experience by combining the traditions of sauna bathing with the dramatic natural surroundings of northern Norway. The sauna is built on a floating jetty directly in front of Thon Hotel Svolvær, offering stunning views of the Vestfjord, the entrance to Svolvær harbour, and the surrounding mountain ranges.

    The facility includes two separate saunas named “Fløya” and “Blåtind”, each designed to maximise the scenic experience through large windows. There are also separate men’s and women’s changing rooms, equipped with hot water showers and toilets. Visitors can access the sea directly from the jetty via a ladder, or take a more adventurous plunge from the diving board located on the roof of the sauna. Non-members pay 250 NOK, and the saunas are open to the public only. You can request to book the sauna privately by sending an email.

    Skårungen Resort Sauna

    Skårungen is a seaside resort and campground located a few kilometres from Svolvær, offering a private outdoor hot tub and sauna pier that is hugely popular. The spa area, completely renovated in 2024, is situated at the end of a dock with front-row views of the Vestfjord and the towering Vågekallen mountain. It consists of a wood-fired hot tub (8–10 people) and an adjacent wood-fired sauna (10–12 people). When you book, you get the entire spa area exclusively – no sharing with strangers.

    The standard rental is 1.5 hours, priced at NOK 399 per person for both sauna + hot tub use. If you only want to use the sauna (and not the tub), the price is NOK 250 per person. (They also offer a shorter late-night 1-hour slot at NOK 299 pp.) The facility features a private changing room with a shower on the pier, as well as additional restrooms located in the main building nearby. Skårungen’s spa is particularly magical in the evenings – you can relax in the steaming hot tub under the Arctic sky, then dash into the cold sea (there’s a ladder for quick dips) and hop into the sauna to warm up. They even deliver drinks to the pier on request (champagne under the midnight sun, anyone?).

    Just outside Svolvær, if you visit the Hov Gård horse farm in Gimsøy, they offer a beachfront “Hov Sauna” where you can watch Icelandic horses trot by as you enjoy your sauna (and possibly catch a glimpse of the Northern Lights). And in Nusfjord fishing village (about 1.5 hours from Svolvær), the luxury resort has a seaside sauna and hot tub for guests.

    But within the Svolvær area, the two above (the floating sauna and Skårungen) cover both ends of the spectrum – one a social drop-in spot amid the rorbuer (fishing cabins), the other an intimate spa treat. No matter which you choose, a Lofoten sauna + sea dip will be a highlight of your trip – a perfect fusion of wellness and wilderness in the Arctic environment.

    Sauna Etiquette

    I think you should read the website of the specific sauna first, as sauna etiquette will vary a little from company to company. But, in general, here are some guidelines to taking a sauna in Norway. 

    1. Nudity is Normal (and Expected)
    In Norway, nudity in saunas is normal. Most locals go in starkers — no swimmers, no towel wrapped around you (except to sit on). It’s not sexual, it’s just natural. That said, in mixed-gender saunas or public ones, it’s often optional — so check the rules or follow the lead of others.

    Tip: Always bring a towel to sit on for hygiene reasons. No one wants to sit in someone else’s sweat.

    Some saunas will request that you wrap a towel around yourself. They prefer that to swimmers because swimmers often carry more bacteria. 

    2. Shower Beforehand
    This is non-negotiable. Please wash yourself before entering the sauna. It’s about respect for others and keeping the space clean. In most public saunas, signs will even remind you.

    3. Keep it Quiet
    Norwegian saunas are places for calm and quiet, not for having a loud chat. Chatting is fine if it’s low-key, but avoid shouting, swearing, or carrying on. If you’re with mates, tone it down and enjoy the serenity.

    4. Respect the Heat Ritual
    Often, there’s a designated person (especially in public saunas) who handles the aufguss — the practice of pouring water over hot stones to generate steam. Please don’t do it yourself unless it’s clearly okay. Ask if unsure.

    Also, don’t open the door too often — it lets the heat out and annoys everyone.

    5. Embrace the Cold Plunge
    After heating up, it’s common to cool down with a dip in the ocean, a cold shower, or rolling in the snow (yes, really). It might be shocking at first, but it’s all part of the experience — and you’ll feel amazing after.

    6. Time Your Stay
    A typical round is about 10–15 minutes. You can do several rounds with breaks in between to cool off and rehydrate. Listen to your body — no need to tough it out to impress anyone.

    7. Clean Up After Yourself
    Could you bring out your towel, water bottle, and any other items you brought? If it’s a self-service sauna (quite common in Norway), you might also need to tidy up or sweep out the space for the following user.

    8. Don’t Be a Stickybeak
    Norwegians value privacy and personal space, even in social settings such as saunas. Don’t stare, don’t pry, and don’t force conversation. A nod or quiet smile goes a long way.

    Sweden's Eurovision Entry

    A big reason I wanted to put this article together is because I fell in love with Norway’s Eurovision entry this year. It’s called “Bara Bada Bastu” – which basically means “just take a sauna”.

    Watch below!

    Resources

    All information has been compiled from official tourist boards and sauna operators’ websites, with pricing and details confirmed as of 2025. Be sure to check the provided booking links and sources for the most up-to-date schedules and prices before planning your sauna experience.

    All images are taken from the sauna operator’s websites and are not my own. 

    Enjoy your Norwegian sauna adventure – or as the Norwegians say, god badstue! 

  • The Fascinating History of Whaling & Sealing in Norway

    The Fascinating History of Whaling & Sealing

    The fascinating history of whaling and sealing in Norway is worth reading about before you come to this part of the world. I know that many would not associate whaling and sealing with being fascinating, considering the stigma associated with them today. However, I think it’s essential to understand how life in Norway was 200 years ago and why it was much more of a necessity than it is today. I’ve conducted a thorough examination of the history of whaling and sealing in Norway, aiming to understand the historical connections to this industry and its impact on modern Norway.

    I didn’t realise how long this article would be, so apologies for the lengthy text. But trust me, as you get reading, you’ll understand why I couldn’t cut it down. 

    In this article...

    Early Origins of Whaling & Sealing

    Whales and seals have been part of Norwegian coastal life since ancient times. Norse communities in the Viking Age occasionally harvested small whales that ventured near shore or drove whole pods (e.g. pilot whales) into fjords. Norse sagas mention disputes over stranded whale carcasses, suggesting that a beached whale was a prized windfall, though no large-scale whaling industry existed in medieval Norway. Early Norwegians did practice a form of spear-drift whaling: hunters in open boats would harpoon a whale with a marked spear and later claim the carcass when it washed ashore. This subsistence approach, along with opportunistic scavenging of drift whales, characterised the early relationship between Norwegians and whales.

    Seals were another important resource for coastal and Arctic peoples. In the far north, Indigenous groups and later Norwegian settlers hunted seals for meat, blubber, and hides using simple tools.

    Hunting in Svalbard

    Hunting Arctic animals around Svalbard became highly competitive throughout the 16th and 17th centuries, with Russians, Germans, Norwegians, Danes, and the Dutch all competing for whales, seals, Arctic foxes, and polar bears.

    German crews began hunting seals on the drifting pack ice between Greenland and Svalbard. In the 1700s, Norwegians and Danes took over this sealing ground from the Germans. Unlike whaling, sealing required less capital – a small sailing ship and hardy crew could set out each spring to the ice floes to club or shoot seals and return with valuable pelts and oil. These early sealing expeditions were perilous; crews braved treacherous ice and arctic storms, as tragically illustrated by the Svenskehuset Tragedy of 1872–73, when seventeen Norwegian sealers overwintering in Svalbard perished.

    Trade Competition

    In the 17th century, the rich Arctic seas around Svalbard drew whalers from across Europe. Dutch, English, and Basque whaling fleets established seasonal camps on the archipelago. These whalers targeted the bountiful Greenland right and bowhead whales, rendering their blubber into oil on primitive shore-based tryworks (boiling stations) and collecting baleen “whalebone” for use in corsets and buggy whips. Competition was fierce: nations vied for dominance over the whaling grounds, even coming into naval skirmishes in the icy bays. By the late 1600s, Svalbard’s bays – once teeming with whales – saw drastic declines from over-harvesting. Whaling around Svalbard declined in the 18th century as whale populations there were depleted, and interest from the Dutch and British shifted or waned.

    Nevertheless, the legacy of this era remains in place names like Smeerenburg (“Blubber Town”), a Dutch-built whaling station on Svalbard’s Amsterdam Island that once bustled with try-pots and whalers. These early episodes set the stage: Norwegians inherited a tradition of deriving sustenance and wealth from marine mammals, even if other nations initially dominated large-scale operations. By the end of the 18th century, Norway’s direct role in whaling was still limited. Still, a generation of Norwegian seafarers and entrepreneurs had taken note of the profits to be made from the “red gold” of whale and seal oil.

    The Birth of Modern Whaling

    In the 1800s, Norway rose to prominence by revolutionising whaling technology. The turning point came with Svend Foyn (pictured), a Norwegian sealer-turned-innovator often referred to as the father of modern whaling. Foyn was born in Tønsberg in 1809 and had spent years in the Arctic sealing trade, which gave him the experience to tackle the problem of hunting larger whale species. At that time, traditional methods could only reliably catch slow-moving whales, such as right whales, or rely on chance strandings. Foyn recognised that to hunt the swift, powerful rorquals (such as blue, fin, and sei whales) which frequent Norway’s coast, a faster ship and a deadlier weapon were needed.

    After studying others’ experiments (American whalers had trialled a rocket harpoon in the 1860s without commercial success), Foyn devised a practical solution. In 1864, he outfitted a small steam-powered vessel and, after several trials, patented an explosive-tipped harpoon cannon in 1870—a device that would change whaling forever. His harpoon was fired from a mounted cannon; when the barbed head struck a whale, a grenade charge detonated inside, ensuring a swift kill or lethal injury. This innovation, coupled with faster steam catchers, suddenly made it feasible to chase and take down the previously untouchable big whales of the North Atlantic.

    Foyn launched Norway’s first modern whaling company in the 1860s out of Finnmark. Early attempts were modest – his inaugural voyage in 1864 yielded only a few whales – but by the 1870s Foyn’s methods proved extraordinarily effective. He established a shore station at Vadsø and negotiated a monopoly license from the Norwegian government (1873–1883) to keep competitors at bay while he refined the business. Foyn’s crews hunted primarily rorquals, towing the floating carcasses back to shore for processing. Nearly every part of the whale was utilised: blubber was rendered into oil (for soap, lamp fuel, and later margarine production), bones and meat scraps were boiled down into guano fertiliser, and baleen found ready markets in industry.

    One thing Foyn struggled to do was create a local appetite for whale meat – 19th-century Norwegians were not keen on eating whale, so the flesh was mostly discarded or turned into animal feed. Nonetheless, profits from oil and baleen were rich. Soon, other Norwegians sought to join in the action. Even while Foyn still held his monopoly in the 1870s, unofficial whaling stations popped up (one of the first competing companies was founded in Sandefjord, in southern Norway). When Foyn’s exclusive rights expired, a veritable whaling rush ensued. By the late 1880s, dozens of Norwegian whaling ships were prowling coastal waters, and catches skyrocketed – in just two years (1885–1886), over a thousand fin whales and nearly 150 blue whales were taken off Norway’s coast. This uncontrolled harvest began depleting local whale stocks, and coastal fishing communities began to notice changes.

    Conflicts soon arose between traditional fishermen and the new whaling industry. Northern fishermen, in particular, blamed whaling for poor fish catches – they believed the removal of whales (which some fishermen thought helped herd herring toward the coast) was one cause of dwindling fisheries. A notable incident was the Mehamn uprising, in which fishermen fought back against the whalers and destroyed the whaling stations. Whether or not the science behind this claim was sound, the economic rivalry was real. In the 1880s, Norwegian lawmakers, pressured by hundreds of petitioning fishermen, imposed the world’s first whaling restrictions to protect regional interests.

    Fun fact – the coat of arms of Sandefjord in Norway represents a whaler. 

    Sealing in the 1800s

    While whaling boomed, sealing continued to be an essential seasonal pursuit for Norwegians, particularly those from northern ports such as Tromsø. Throughout the 1800s, sealing fleets would depart every spring for the ice fields of the West Ice (off Greenland) and the East Ice (in the Barents Sea and White Sea). These sealers, often using sturdy sailing schooners, hunted harp seals and hooded seals for their pelts and oil. By the late 19th century, Tromsø had overtaken Hammerfest as the main base for Norwegian Arctic hunters, and an average of 20–30 Norwegian sealing ships sailed north each year.

    The sealing life was brutal and adventurous, immortalised in folk tales and the annals of polar exploration. (In fact, many famed Norwegian Arctic explorers – such as Otto Sverdrup and others – cut their teeth as sealing or whaling captains before embarking on expeditions.) The risks were enormous: ice could crush a ship or trap it for months.

    By 1900, both whaling and sealing had evolved from subsistence activities into significant commercial industries in Norway – one driven by technological innovation and industrial profit, the other a more traditional hunt still crucial to the livelihoods of northern communities. Both would soon face new pressures and opportunities as Norway entered the 20th century.

    Early Conservation Laws, Expansion, Exploitation & Regulation (1904)

    At the beginning of the 20th century, the Norwegian government decided to ban whaling in northern Norway for ten years, which ended in 1914. However, this didn’t stop the commercial whaling business. Instead, it encouraged Norwegian whalers to look abroad.

    In 1904, a group of Norwegians led by Captain C.A. Larsen established the first modern whaling station in the Antarctic – at Grytviken on South Georgia – under a British lease. This marked the start of Antarctic whaling, a frontier which Norwegians would dominate for decades. Soon, wholly Norwegian companies followed: between 1905 and 1907, several new firms, backed by investors from Sandefjord and Larvik, began hunting in the Southern Ocean. They were drawn by reports of unimaginably vast whale populations in the Antarctic seas and the potential to reap huge profits in whale oil. By the 1920s and 1930s, Norway was the world’s preeminent whaling nation. Norwegian factory ships and catcher fleets roamed from the South Atlantic to the Pacific. During this golden age of commercial whaling, Norway’s harvests were enormous – by the mid-1930s, Norwegian operations accounted for over half of all whales killed worldwide.

    The wealth from whaling helped industrialise and modernise parts of Norway; for instance, the town of Sandefjord flourished as a hub of the whaling industry, home to major companies and a harbour full of towering factory ships. This period also fostered national pride – Norwegian expeditions planted the flag on Antarctic soil, claiming Bouvet Island (1927) and Queen Maud Land (1939), partly to secure whaling rights in those areas. Whaling and polar exploration went hand in hand as Norway asserted itself on the world stage.

     

    Sealing in the early 20th century

    Sealing also hit its peak during this time. Norwegian sealers in the early 1900s were harvesting astonishing numbers of seals in the Arctic ice packs. Historical records indicate that around 1900, annual catches in the Greenland Sea (West Ice) were on the order of 120,000 seals, rising to 350,000 seals per year by the 1920s at the height of the industry. Norway and Russia together accounted for the bulk of this take. The economic depression of the 1930s, followed by wartime disruptions, reduced demand for seal products, and seal populations began to decline, prompting some restrictions. In the mid-20th century, seal stocks – especially hooded seals – declined significantly, crashing from an estimated one million animals in the 1950s to approximately 100,000 by the 1980s. This decline was attributed to overhunting and possibly environmental changes, and it foreshadowed the scrutiny the sealing industry would face in the future. By the 1940s and 1950s, sealing was still promoted by the Norwegian government, both for economic output and as a means to maintain settlement and activity in the far north. However, the hunt was increasingly regulated under quota systems to prevent the total collapse of seal herds. Technological change also arrived: older sail-powered seal ships gave way to diesel-powered vessels, such as the robust MS Havsel, and hunters began using rifles more than clubs as their primary weapons, both for efficiency and – eventually – to address animal welfare concerns.

    Changes to Attitudes in Whaling

    In the latter half of the 20th century, whaling and sealing in Norway came under growing pressure from changing public attitudes and international regulations. By the 1970s, global awareness of environmental issues and animal welfare had surged. Whales, in particular, went from being seen purely as commodities to being appreciated as intelligent, even sentient creatures deserving protection. The image of the whaler shifted in the public eye worldwide – from intrepid seaman to, increasingly, a man killing endangered giants of the sea. Environmental groups like Greenpeace and the World Wildlife Fund led high-profile anti-whaling campaigns. Norwegian whaling, which by the 1970s was much reduced in scope, nonetheless became a target of protest. Activists staged dramatic direct actions, including attempts to obstruct whaling ships at sea. In one notorious incident in the 1980s, the radical group Sea Shepherd sabotaged Norwegian whaling vessels in harbor. This international outcry culminated in 1982 when the International Whaling Commission voted for a global moratorium on commercial whaling, which took effect in 1986. Under this IWC moratorium, all commercial whaling was to cease, though exceptions existed for scientific research hunts and indigenous subsistence whaling.

     

    Norway’s response to the whaling moratorium was complex. On the one hand, the Norwegian government agreed to pause commercial whaling in 1986, aligning with the IWC’s decision temporarily. On the other hand, Norway lodged a formal objection to the moratorium – a legal option that allowed it to resume whaling later without technically violating international law. Norwegian scientists argued that particular species, especially the North Atlantic minke whale, were not endangered and could be harvested sustainably. After conducting some years of research whaling (catches taken under the guise of science), Norway officially resumed limited commercial whaling in 1993, becoming the only country in the world to do so in defiance of the IWC ban (Japan and Iceland, by contrast, pursued “scientific” whaling before later following Norway’s lead back into open commercial whaling). Norwegian officials framed this as a matter of principle: a sovereign right to use marine resources in Norwegian waters sustainably.

    Whale Quotas & Modern Hunting

    Since the 1990s, Norway has set its own quotas for minke whale hunts, using IWC scientific assessments as a guideline but not being bound by IWC zero-catch rules. Typically a few hundred minkes are harvested by Norway each year by a small fleet of coastal whaling boats. The scale is a tiny fraction of mid-century whaling, yet it remains fiercely debated. Animal welfare advocates highlight that modern whale hunts, though improved with better harpoons, can still result in whales suffering if not killed instantly (by some estimates, a significant minority of whales do not die immediately from the first shot). Norwegian whalers and authorities counter that their methods are as humane as any slaughterhouse and that they continually research improvements in killing technology (for instance, developing more effective grenades for the harpoon).

    Within Norway, whaling occupies a complicated place in society. In certain coastal districts – notably in the Vestlandet and Nordland regions – small whaling communities see it as a proud tradition and a source of supplementary income. They stress that whaling has been part of Norwegian life “since Viking times,” forming a thread of continuity with ancestors who lived off the sea. Many Norwegians, even outside these communities, view the minke whale hunt as no more controversial than the slaughter of deer or livestock, emphasising that minke populations are healthy and that the meat is a traditional food. The Norwegian government often echoes these cultural and scientific justifications: it portrays Norway’s whaling as a sustainable use of a natural resource and as integral to the heritage of a seafaring nation. At the same time, public interest in eating whale meat has diminished over the decades.

    Whale meat was never a staple across all of Norway, and younger generations especially have less of an appetite for it. Demand has declined to the point that, in recent years, Norwegian whalers often struggle to sell all their catch. By the 2020s, only a handful of vessels, as few as eight or ten boats, take part in the annual whale hunt.

    Government-set quotas have been relatively high (around 900–1,200 minkes per year in the late 2010s and early 2020s), but actual catches are usually well below these ceilings due to low participation and market limitations. For example, in 2023 Norway allowed up to 1,000 minkes to be caught, but only about 507 were actually taken, with just nine boats active that season. This trend highlights that Norwegian commercial whaling today is a niche, small-scale industry – one sustained partly by government support and a sense of cultural stubbornness, even as economics alone might have led to its demise. Internationally, Norway faces constant criticism for continuing whaling. Anti-whaling NGOs argue that Norway’s hunt is unnecessary (the country is wealthy and food-secure without whale meat) and unethical, given the special status of whales as intelligent, migratory animals.

    The Decline of Sealing

    Sealing in Norway experienced a more dramatic decline in the late 20th century. What had once been a significant industry involving hundreds of ships and thousands of men virtually collapsed. Two main factors drove this: animal welfare activism and market economics. By the 1960s and 70s, graphic images of white-furred seal pups being clubbed on blood-stained ice floes ignited public horror around the world. Norway’s sealers were often portrayed in the media as villains, much as whalers were. This pressure yielded results.

    In 1983, the European Economic Community (precursor to the EU) banned the import of young harp seal pelts, known as the “whitecoat” pelts, thereby removing a significant market for the Canadian and Norwegian seal hunts. The demand for seal fur and oil continued to shrink thereafter. By 2009, the EU instituted a near-total ban on all commercial seal products (with exceptions only for indigenous hunts), a decision Norway and Canada unsuccessfully challenged at the World Trade Organisation. As a consequence, Norwegian sealing voyages became unprofitable. The Norwegian government has provided subsidies for some years to keep a token hunt alive – partly to support coastal communities and maintain traditional skills. But even subsidies could not fully compensate for collapsing demand. By the 1990s and 2000s, the number of active sealing vessels dwindled to only one or two.

    By the 2010s, Norway’s seal hunt had essentially reached an endpoint. A BBC report in 2017 chronicled how the MS Havsel, one of Norway’s last sealing ships, undertook what was billed as the “final” commercial sealing expedition to the Greenland ice floes (click here to read the article). The voyage was documented in a film, Sealers – One Last Hunt, described as an unapologetic tribute to an industry that, in its heyday a century earlier, sent over 200 vessels from Norway’s ports each spring. The documentary and local commentators lamented the end of an era, noting that the sealers and their ships had “shaped the economy of coastal Norway” in the north for generations.

    In northern towns like Tromsø, older residents still call the significance of the “selfangst” (seal catch)– it was a source of income, adventure, and communal identity. But times have changed. As one of the film’s producers observed, “People today buy meat in plastic packages and don’t want to see how animals are killed… Seal hunting is an old culture and tradition… better to eat seal than farmed chicken,” she argued, highlighting a view that seal meat is a local, natural food resource. Yet, economic reality won out. The Norwegian government eventually withdrew financial support, and without subsidies, sealing simply could not continue at any viable scale. By the late 2010s, virtually no Norwegian ships were engaged in seal hunting for commercial purposes. The practice that remains is minimal: a few coastal seal hunts of much smaller scope (e.g. controlled culls of coastal seals that impact fisheries, or limited hunts around Svalbard) and the continued indigenous sealing by Inuit in Greenland (which is part of the Kingdom of Denmark, not Norway).

    Whaling in Norway Today

    The near disappearance of sealing and the decline of whaling in Norway reflect broader societal shifts. Norwegians today live in an affluent, modern society far removed from the hardscrabble coastal villages of old. However, the legacies of these industries continue to shape culture and policy in subtler ways. For instance, Norway remains a steadfast voice for the principle of sustainable use of marine resources. In international forums (whether it be the IWC or the North Atlantic Marine Mammal Commission, which Norway helped establish in 1992), Norway consistently argues that scientifically managed whaling and sealing are legitimate. This outlook is rooted in Norway’s history and experience: Norwegians recall that for centuries, the bounty of the sea, from cod to whales and seals, sustained their nation and fueled their economy. Thus, even as few Norwegians today depend on whaling or sealing, there is a lingering national sentiment that outsiders should not dictate how Norway manages its marine wildlife.

    Polls often show a majority of Norwegians either support continued whaling or are indifferent, seeing it as a small-scale activity that does not threaten whale populations. Nevertheless, the cultural importance of whaling and sealing is visibly commemorated: Norway has multiple museums dedicated to whaling, such as the Sandefjord Whaling Museum, and exhibitions in Svalbard, and monuments stand in towns like Tromsø and Tønsberg honouring the whalemen and sealers of years past. These signify a respect for the toughness and enterprise of those workers, even as the practices themselves have largely faded.

    Eating Whale in Norway

    Some Norwegian grocery stores do carry whale meat (generally lean dark-red minke whale steaks), and older generations still prepare traditional dishes like hvalbiff (whale beef). Some whale is available in fish markets in Bergen or Tromsø, but it is typically there for tourists more than for locals. However, consumption is limited, and much of the whale catch now ends up exported to Japan – over a third of Norway’s whale meat is sold to Japan, since most other markets are closed or non-existent. This undermines the argument for feeding Norwegians; it makes the industry appear more like commercial opportunism. In one recent public debate in Lofoten, titled pointedly “Is whaling dead?”, even opponents conceded that outright bans are unlikely; instead, discussions focused on how to better regulate the industry and perhaps find new, ethical business models for coastal communities.

    Sealing in Norway Today

    Sealing’s contemporary relevance is more symbolic. The commercial industry is, for all intents and purposes, extinct in Norway. However, Norway still allows limited seal hunts in certain contexts. For example, each year a small quota of harbour seals and grey seals is set for Norwegian coastal waters, primarily to prevent those seal populations from increasing and impacting local fisheries (these are managed hunts often conducted by local fishermen under permit).

    In the Arctic, Norway also continues to set quotas for harp and hooded seals in the West Ice and East Ice zones, even though in many recent years, zero Norwegian vessels actually take part. It’s a bit of a formality – the infrastructure and manpower for large seal expeditions are gone. One might see it as Norway keeping the regulatory framework alive, perhaps in case markets or needs change in the future. Meanwhile, Indigenous sealing (in Greenland and arctic Canada) still goes on and Norway differentiates itself from that; Norwegian spokespeople at times underline that their objection is to commercial sealing bans, not subsistence hunting by Arctic peoples, which they agree should be respected. Nonetheless, Norway’s alignment with Canada in defending sealing internationally shows a lingering solidarity with the idea of seal hunting as a legitimate activity.

    Eating Seal in Norway

    I’ve only seen seal on the menu in two places – Tromsø and Longyearbyen. I tried it in Longyearbyen and wasn’t a fan at all. Still, it’s no longer commonly found on menus and is not something you’ll typically come across. 

    Seal oil is found a lot in fish markets, especially in Bergen. Chinese tourists in particular buy a lot of seal oil when they visit. 

    Summing up Whaling & Sealing in Norway

    In Norwegian culture, the historical significance of sealing and whaling has left lasting traces. Songs, literature, and local museums preserve the memory of the polar heroes who were whalers and sealers. For instance, in many northern fishing villages, one can find the graves of men lost at sea on seal hunts and monuments honouring them. The ethos of those industries – courage, hardship, and self-reliance – has blended into

    Today’s Norwegians primarily see whales and seals as part of their natural environment to appreciate – it’s not uncommon to find Norwegians conflicted, proud that their country stands up for its traditions, yet they might have never eaten whale or seal meat and may feel compassion for these animals. This nuanced perspective is part of what makes the issue so persistent.

    In summary, the history of whaling and sealing in Norway is a journey from subsistence to industry to cultural flashpoint. What began as age-old coastal practices evolved into substantial industries by the early 20th century, significantly contributing to Norway’s economy, communities, and international presence. Norwegian technological innovations changed global whaling forever, and Norwegian ships once dominated the Antarctic seas in search of leviathans. In the Arctic ice, generations of seal hunters forged a rugged living that became the stuff of legend. Over time, the overuse of resources led to decline, and the evolving human values brought condemnation. By the 1980s, these hunts had become as much about politics and identity as about economics. Entering the 21st century, Norway finds itself holding on to the last vestiges of a controversial past.

    The influence of whaling and sealing today is thus less about direct economic impact (which is minimal) and more about shaping Norway’s policies and self-image. They force Norwegians to reckon with questions: How do we balance tradition against modern ethics? How do we honour our history yet adapt to current realities? In grappling with these questions, Norway’s experience with whaling and sealing offers a microcosm of the broader tension between cultural heritage and conservation in the modern world. It demonstrates that the echoes of historical practices can ring loud in present-day debates, and it ensures that the saga of Norway’s whalers and sealers – from the fjords of Tromsø to the pack ice of Greenland to the whaling stations of South Georgia – remains an enduring chapter in the story of Norway.

  • The Polar Museum in Tromsø

    The Polar Museum in Tromsø

    The Polar Museum in Tromsø is a renowned museum that offers an immersive experience into the rich history of Arctic exploration and the polar regions. The museum commemorates Tromsø’s important role as a gateway for Arctic expeditions and highlights the stories of explorers, hunters and scientists who ventured into the challenging Arctic region.

    I’ve been to the Polar Museum several times, and truly believe that it’s a must-see when visiting Norway. So, here’s my practical guide for visiting the Polar Museum in Tromsø. 

    In this article...

    Norway's Coastal Ferry

    Tromsø is a port of call of Norway’s coastal ferry. Find my guide for the coastal ferry by clicking the link below. 

    About the Museum

    The Polar Museum in Tromsø officially opened on the 18th of June 1978, the 50th anniversary of Roald Amundsens fateful flight aboard the “Latham”.

    With its location in the Arctic, Tromsø has served as the gateway to the Arctic for adventurers, hunters and researchers.

    The museum is located in the former customs house in Tromsø. The building dates back to 1830, and was used as a bonded warehouse to the customs authorities until the 1970s. The museum also owns the neighbouring building, which was built in 1840. It was also used as a customs house but is now the museum’s administration building.

    Inside the Museum

    As you can see, the museum is quite small and can get crowded – especially in the afternoons!

    Layout of the Museum

    The layout of the museum is as follows:

    Ground Floor:
    Room 1: Trapping in the Arctic
    Room 2: Svalbard in the 1600s and 1700s
    Room 3: Hunting Situation
    Room 4: Seal Hunting – Zoological Exhibition
    Room 5: Seal Hunting

    1st Floor:
    Room 6: Aircrafts & the Arctic
    Room 7: Henry Rudi & Wanny Woldstad
    Room 8: Walrus Hunting & Polar Bear Hunting
    Room 9: Roald Amundsen
    Room 10: Fridtjof Nansen

    Most text displays are in Norwegian, but there are printed documents with translations into English. You can’t take them with you, however. They are wonderfully detailed, so I actually took photos of all of them so I could read them later.

     

    What the information boards look like. It’s a little tricky to read as it’s quite far away (unless you have amazing eyesight!). 

    Hunting & Trapping

    The first exhibition is about Arctic hunting and trapping. It explores the traditions of Arctic hunters and trappers who braved extreme conditions for survival and trade. Here you can see tools, weapons and artifacts related to seal hunting, the trapping of polar bears and Arctic foxes, as well as the fur trade. The information goes into detail about how they survived, especially in the difficult winters.

    The exhibits are wonderfully built. I think this is why I love older museums; there was so much work put into creating displays. New museums (in my opinion) rely too much on tech. But here, at the Polar Museum, you can step into a trappers cabin and see exactly what it looked like. They also have all the tools and furs out on display.

    While some scenes may be shocking, it’s important to remember that the world was different 200 years ago, and for many this was their only way to make a living. And, this far north, this type of meat was much fresher than bringing something up from the south.

    On the walls you’ll find dozens of photos of actual trapping and hunting that took place. Some of them have captions in English, but not all of them. Some also include captions in German.

    These are the translated guides that you have to carry with you. But look below to see how detailed it is!

    Svalbard

    I love Svalbard (I have a whole section dedicated to Svalbard on the website! Click here to see it), and the Svalbard Museum provides an even better overview than what you get in the Polar Museum. Still, this exhibition provides an excellent overview of Svalbard and may even encourage you to book a trip there. The exhibition on Svalbard provides a historic overview of the region and how it came to be a hub for Arctic hunting and exploration.

    Seal Hunting

    There is a special section in the museum dedicated to seal hunting. Seal hunting is quite controversial in Norway today, but is a very small industry. The only place I’ve seen seal meat for sale was in Svalbard. Still, this exhibition provides context into why seal hunting was happening, how it worked, and what the seal was used for. There are displays showing all the different types of seal skins, the process of seal hunting, and then seal hunting in modern times and the controversies that come with it. I particularly like the displays showing all the different navigational tools that were used to get to Svalbard (it’s in the same area as the seal hunting).

    Polar Bears & Airships

    Upstairs you’ll see some models of the various airships that were used in the polar exploration missions. There are even photos on display, including one of the well-known airship Norge, which departed from Vadsø to fly over the North Pole. Most of the text on the wall here is only in Norwegian, making it challenging to follow in English.

    Next to it is an exhibition on polar bear hunting, another controversial topic that does not happen anymore. Still, seeing and learning about how these trappers caught polar bears is quite impressive!

    Arctic Explorers

    On the upper floor the main focus is the polar expeditions, which I find to be one of the highlights of the museum. Here you can learn about the Arctic explorers such as Fridtjof Nansen and Roald Amundsen. Their pioneering efforts in navigating uncharted territories and advancing polar science are celebrated with maps, photographs, and equipment. The museum especially focuses on Tromsø as a departure point for Arctic missions and its role in supporting the explorers.

    Here you’ll see items that belonged to these iconic explorers, as well as photographs of their missions and diaries they kept on their travels. The English booklets go onto wonderful detail about each polar explorer and break down all their missions. Again, it’s a perfect thing to take a photo of to read later!

    Tromsø Historic Photos

    As you leave the exhibition to make your way back to the lobby, you’ll find some excellent historic photos of Tromsø. It’s incredible to see how small the town was just 150 years ago.

    Practical Information

    Local name

    Polarmuseet

    Getting Here

    The Polar Museum is located approximately 15-20 minutes on foot from the Coastal Ferry Terminal. It’s approximately five minutes from the end of the main shopping street, Storgata. The museum is located by the fish market on the harbour. 

    Admission & Prices

    You can view up-to-date prices by visiting their website: https://en.uit.no/tmu/polarmuseet

    Opening Hours

    The museum is open daily, with the opening hours being 11am to 5pm in the winter. 

    I recommend checking their website for up-to-date opening hours: https://en.uit.no/tmu/polarmuseet/planlegg

    Facilities

    There is no cafe here, but there is a lovely gift shop. The gift shop is excellent and has a huge selection of books on the Arctic. You can also pick up beautiful locally made souvenirs. 

    Guided Tours

    During the summer (1 June to 15 August), there are guided tours of the museum at 1pm. I do recommend going; the guides help put everything in context.

    Accessibility

    Unfortunately, since this is an old building, the museum is only wheelchair accessible on the ground floor, as there’s a set of stairs to the second floor. Even so, the ground floor is very narrow and can be crowded, so it’s not easy to navigate through.

    Final Thoughts on the Polar Museum

    Overall, I believe the Polar Museum is an important institution educating visitors about the Arctic’s history, wildlife, and the human spirit of exploration. It also underscores Tromsø’s identity as the Arctic capital and provides a sobering reflection on humanity’s interactions with the polar environment. While you may not agree with all the practices that took place here, it’s important to understand why and how it happened.

    The museum is a must on any visit to Tromsø!

    Be sure to check out my Tromsø travel guide! Here you can find all my recommendations of things to do and see, plus practical information for visiting the beautiful Arctic capital. 

  • How to See the Northern Lights in Tromsø

    How to see the Northern Lights in Tromsø

    Tromsø is one of the best places in the world to witness the northern lights. But how do you see the northern lights in Tromsø?

    I’ve been working as a northern lights trip leader for four seasons now. I take groups on two week trips up to Northern Norway and Finland to see the northern lights. On top of that, I follow all the Facebook groups for Tromsø that debate how to see the northern lights. Often I see the same questions over and over again, as well as the same mistakes, so I thought I’d put it all together into a guide so you can make sure you’re making the most of your visit.

    Here’s my guide to how you can optimise your chances for a successful experience. 

    In this article...

    Choose the Right Time of Year & Day

    The best time to see the northern lights in Tromsø is from September through to early April. The best time for the lights in Tromsø is between 6pm and 2am, though they can be seen any time it is dark enough. The optimal time is due to the earths rotation, with the aurora belt being strongest on one side and weaker on one side.

    If you just want to see the lights and avoid cold weather and snow, then I recommend going in September. If you want to combine northern lights with all the wintery activities, I recommend going in February and March. October – January can have excellent northern lights, but it’s often stormy and rainy and the darkest time of year, meaning you never get to see how beautiful the area is.

    Give Yourself Enough Time

    You need to spend at least four nights above the arctic circle to give yourself the best chance of seeing the lights. It’s often cloudy in Tromsø, so many nights are not optimal. I actually recommend spending a week up there if you are very eager to see the lights.

    Check Weather & Solar Activity

    It’s important for the northern lights that you have clear skies and avoid cloudy conditions. Tromsø’s weather can be unpredictable, so keep an eye on forecasts. Even if the weather forecast is cloudy, still check outside. The forecasts can often be wrong!

    In Tromsø, the weather forecast is more important than the solar forecast. Tromsø is exposed to the sea and frequently gets bad weather and clouds, so it’s important to be aware of this before going.

    It’s also important to check solar activity. While Tromsø is so far north even weak and inactive northern lights can be visible, it’s best to keep an eye on the activity so you know when there’ll be strong nights or weak nights.

    It’s worth noting that the northern lights may suddenly appear as explosions in the sky, and then disappear quickly again. Or they may appear as a fog for hours before exploding in the sky. It’s important to be actively looking throughout the evening, and not give up too early.

    I took this photo approximately 20 minutes out of Tromsø and we were parked by the highway (was on a guided tour). 

    Go to a Dark Location

    While the northern lights can be seen from Tromsø city centre, they’ll never look as good as they can without light pollution. Therefore, you need to get out of the lights of the city.

    If in Tromsø centre, the best places to go are:
    Fjellheisen cable car
    Prestvannet Lake is a nature reserve with no artifical illumination.
    Kongsbakken park has no streetlights.
    Telegrafbukta is a popular beach on the southern tip of the island and is a top choice for spotting the northern lights.

    Alternatively, you can book accommodation out of the city centre so you’ll be guaranteed dark nights. On this occasion, you may want to hire a car to take yourself into the city every day.

    I’m not going to recommend places out of the city centre as I do not encourage you renting a car and driving around.

    Go on a Guided Tour

    My best advice is to go on an organised tour with a local guide who is able to share their knowledge and offer some advice. The guides monitor the weather, cloud cover and northern lights activity carefully.

    There are two different times of northern lights tours:

    A northern lights hunt involves going by car, minibus, or full-size bus and the focus of this activity is seeing the northern lights.

    A northern lights experiences combines hunting for the northern lights with an activity, such as dog sledding, snowmobiling, or a reindeer safari. In this case, the focus of the activity is the experience, and the northern lights is the bonus.

    Which one is better? This is completely up to you! Some prefer the idea of doing an experience so the entire night isn’t a waste in case you don’t see the lights, but experiences make it harder to photograph the northern lights.

    Northern lights may only appear for a minute, so it’s important to have someone constantly watching the sky.

    I recommend browsing the VisitTromsø website for ideas on what kind of tours you can do: https://www.visittromso.no/northern-lights

    Go on a Cruise

    Northern lights cruises are another good way to see the lights. These cruises take you far out of the city lights and will provide stunning backdrops with mountains and fjords as you take photographs of northern lights.

    My photo above was taken from Hurtigruten near the port of Skjervøy. Being on a ship can give a more dynamic photo, but you have to adjust to the fact that the ship is moving. 

    Book Everything in Advance

    It’s important to keep in mind that Tromsø is extremely popular for northern lights tourism, and everything books out months in advance. This includes the good hotels and northern lights guides. So be organised and have everything ready well before you come to Tromsø.

    Go Somewhere Else in Norway

    Tromsø is not the only city in Norway that gets northern lights. If you want to avoid overly crowded areas and mass tourism, here are some other places that offer northern lights experiences and tours and won’t be as busy:
    – Alta
    – Kirkenes
    – Narvik
    – Svolvær
    – Kautokeino

    Do not Hire a Car!

    I know it can be tempting to hire a car to go out northern lights searching yourself, but I do not recommend it. The roads can be icy and dark, and if you aren’t used to driving on ice in the dark, you risk crashing and injuring yourself of others. Many may also not focus clearly on the road if they are eager to get to a northern lights spot. Please book a tour – it’s for the safety of yourself and the locals.

    Emma's Northern Lights Diary

    You can see all my northern lights sightings using the link below. 

    How to Observe the Northern Lights

    Here’s my general guide to observing the northern lights. 

  • Where to Stay in Tromsø, from a Tour Leader’s Perspective

    Where to Stay in Tromsø from a Tour Leader's Perspective

    Tromsø is an incredible Arctic city and in the last decade or so has become a very popular place to stay. It is completely understandable, too. In winter, you get northern lights and fun winter activities like husky safaris, whale safaris, and skiing. In summer, there are amazing hikes and places to go cycling. The increasing number of visitors in Tromsø has led a boom in the construction of hotels, and now there is plenty of choice for travellers with all budgets. 

    I’ve put together this guide for the best places to stay in Tromsø based on my experience going there for work as a tour leader but also the times I’ve been there for my work on this website. I’ve stayed in a few different places in a few different regions of Tromsø, so hope this guide can provide some help!

    Tip: Book the hotel as far in advance as possible. Good hotels sell out months in advance and up to a year in advance if during the northern lights season, so you don’t want to miss out on a good price and good hotel. 

    Affiliate links: None of the hotels recommended here are paid placements or have sponsored this article in any way. This guide comes from my years of experience travelling to Tromsø for work and holiday, and I’m simply choosing the hotels I believe to be the best choice. That said, if you book through the link provided here, I get a small commission at no extra cost to you, and that money contributes to this website. I appreciate any support I can get 🙂

    Price Range:

    Budget: Less than 1500 NOK a night
    Mid-range: 1500 – 2600 NOK a night
    High end: 2600 NOK a night

    I looked at one night in March in the following year from when I wrote this article to get my price list.

    In this article...

    Norway's Coastal Ferry

    Tromsø is a port of call of Norway’s coastal ferry. Find my guide for the coastal ferry by clicking the link below. 

    Map of Tromsø

    Tromsø City Centre (Tromsøya Island)

    Why Stay Here?

    If you are coming into Tromsø without a car, plan on booking lots of excursions, or just want to be close to everything, the city centre is the place for you. This guide includes all the hotels on the island of Tromsøya, which is the island where Tromsø city and the airport are located. However, convenience comes at a price and it is here that you’ll find Tromsø’s most expensive hotels. 

    High End

    Clarion Hotel The Edge

    Clarion Hotel The Edge is one of the most popular hotels in Tromsø, but it comes at a price. The location is perfect – directly opposite the Hurtigruten terminal – and the hotel even has a skybar on the top level. Most shops and popular restaurants are within a five minute walk of The Edge. I have stayed here a couple times and found the location to be perfect. The rooms are high end and the lobby and restaurant area is fantastic. One time I was there, the hotel was hosting a comedy show in the theatre that night! 

    Check Availability & Prices

    TA Vervet

    TA Vervet (Total Apartments Vervet) is a high-end apart-hotel located in the hip neighbourhood of Vervet. The apartments are beautifully designed and have views either of a garden or out to the sea. All apartments have a fully equipped kitchen, a private bathroom, a living room, and separate bedrooms. They all have a balcony. There is a rooftop terrace on top of the building and private parking is available in a garage in the basement, which is great if you are renting a car.

    You need to stay at least two nights here and prices are very high, but if you’re travelling as a group of four or more and want to stay together, this is a great option. The hotel is close to the Polar Museum and the bus across to the Arctic Cathedral. It’s about a 10-15 minute walk to the main street but is in a nice quiet area. 

    Check Availability & Prices

    Enter Elisabeth Suites & Spa

    This is one of Tromsø’s newest hotels and is located around a ten-minute walk south of the main centre of Tromsø. Much like TA, this is an apartment hotel. The apartments have a fully equipped kitchen, dining area, separate bedrooms, and private bathrooms. Some rooms come with a laundry. The hotel also serves breakfast (costs extra) and has a fitness room and terrace. There is even a spa located in the hotel and it has a heated pool. Private parking is available.  

    Check Availability & Prices

    Tip: TA Vervet & Enter Elisabeth are some of Tromsø’s newest hotels. TA Vervet is in a brand-new neighbourhood called Vervet, which is quickly becoming Tromsø’s hipster neighbourhood. 

    Mid Range

    Most hotels in Tromsø city centre seem to be priced the same – around 1700 NOK a night – so your pick really comes down to personal preference.

    Scandic Ishavshotel

    Scandic is a mid-range Scandinavian chain of hotels, and while their rooms often just look like IKEA catalogues, the hotels are clean, modern, practical, and often in excellent locations. The Scandic Ishavshotel had a major renovation a few years back, so the hotel feels fresh. The breakfast has won “Best Breakfast in Norway” several times.

    Across from the hotel is the major pickup place for many of the sightseeing tours in Tromsø, especially the northern lights tours.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Tip: Scandic is opening a new hotel in Tromsø’s hip neighbourhood Vervet in 2025. This will be the largest hotel in Northern Norway and is called Scandic Vervet. Keep an eye out for that one!

    Clarion Collection Hotel With

    Clarion Hotel With is also located by the harbour with a lovely view out to the Arctic Cathedral, Tromsø Bridge, and Fjellheisen cable car. Clarion chain hotels include a free light evening dinner, which can be a huge plus. The hotel even does free coffee/tea and Norwegian waffles in the afternoon. The hotel is often ranked at the top of TripAdvisor.

    I stayed here on my last visit to Tromsø a couple months ago and really liked the location – a block off the main street by the waterfront. However, the rooms had some very questionable art on the roof above the bed! See below – the group and I had a good laugh about this one. 

    Check Availability & Prices

    Clarion Hotel Aurora

    Located across the street from Hotel With, Clarion Aurora is slightly cheaper despite being a newer hotel with a just as equal location, view, and meal offerings. It is also one of the few hotels with onsite parking. This hotel even has a rooftop jacuzzi and sauna!

    Check Availability & Prices

    Radisson Blu Hotel

    The Radisson Blu is a huge hotel in the centre of everything. This is where almost all of the excursions begin, which can be great if you have booked many activities, but if you are just staying at the hotel it can be annoying pushing past masses of crowds every time you enter and leave the hotel.

    Inside the hotel is a booking desk for excursions, and the hotel runs its own popular pizza place. It also has one of Norway’s most famous pubs, Rorbua, which has live music from Wednesday to Saturday.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Thon Hotel Tromsø/Thon Hotel Polar

    I’ve included both the Thon hotels under the same listing just because they are a chain hotel and therefore more or less similar in style and price. Even the location is comically similar as they are across the street from each other! Some websites categorise this as a budget hotel, which it certainly isn’t. Thon Hotels have nice, clean rooms and good hotel breakfasts!

    Check Availability & Prices (Thon Hotel Polar)

    Check Availability & Prices (Thon Hotel Tromsø)

    Moxy Hotel

    The Moxy Hotel isn’t perfectly located – it’s out near the airport and it takes around 10 minutes to drive into Tromsø – but it is within walking distance of Tromsø’s largest shopping mall. However, the hotel has one of the best views out to Tromsø. The rooms all come with wonderful views too and are modern in their design. The hotel also has a parking lot, which is convenient if you are renting a car.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Budget Friendly

    Enter Backpack Hotel

    Enter Backpack Hotel is one of the most budget options I could find. The rooms with shared bathrooms fit into the budget category. Rooms with a private bathroom are only 200 NOK more expensive, so that may be worth it. The hotel is located a couple blocks west of the main shopping area.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Smarthotel Tromsø

    Smarthotel is one of the best value budget hotels in Tromsø. Double rooms with private bathrooms are some of the cheapest I found in the city. The hotel is only located two blocks from the main shopping street, so it is a great choice if you want to stay close to the city centre but save some money.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Comfort Xpress Tromsø

    Comfort Hotel is a popular chain in Norway and can be a good option too. The main shopping street is close by and all the rooms have private bathrooms. The rooms are very basic – think your minimalist IKEA bedroom – but they are functional and have everything that you need. There is a catch on the low price – there is no daily housekeeping service, rather they clean the rooms every fourth day. You can pay extra if you want your room cleaned daily. There is also a laundry room here that you can use.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Tromsø Coco Apartments

    This is one of the cheapest places to stay in Tromsø. The adults-only accommodation has a shared lounge and garden. All rooms have a shared bathroom, too. However, for a bunk bed in a dormitory you only pay 400 NOK a night. The accommodation is highly rated online, so it’s an excellent budget option.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Kvaløya Island

    Why Stay Here?

    Kvaløya is the name of the island located to the west of Tromsø city centre. It takes about 15 minutes to drive from the island to downtown Tromsø, but there are good public transport connections. I have stayed here once – at a cabin – and chose it because we wanted to be away from city lights and try to spot the northern lights. Kvaløya is also where many northern lights tours drive to, so it made it easier for us to go searching for the lights at night.

    Kvaløya also has some of the best mountains in Tromsø for hiking.

    Pictured above is the view from the cabin we booked on the island in October 2021. 

    High End

    Vengsøy Rorbuer

    These beautiful fishermen’s cabins are located about 30 minutes out of Tromsø but offer incredible views and perfect northern lights spotting. All cabins have free parking, a terrace with views to the sea, a full kitchen, private bathroom and living area. You need to stay at least two nights here.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Mid Range

    Yggdrasil Farmhotel Retreat, Spa and Yoga

    Yggdrasil Farmhotel Retreat, Spa and Yoga is a beautiful property located out in the countryside. Because you are moving further away from the city, you get more value for money. A hotel of this quality would be twice the price if in Tromsø centre. Suites for one night are only 1,800 NOK, which is a bargain for what you get. The cozy cabin rooms have private bathrooms, a kitchen, a lounge area and views over the fjord.

    As this is a farm, you can help feed the farm animals or just say hello to them. The most expensive rooms – the deluxe suites – are only 3,000 NOK for one night. Again, it would be twice the cost if staying in Tromsø centre. You will need a car to get here, though.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Mainland (Tromsdalen/E8 Highway)

    Why Stay Here?

    Tromsdalen is on the mainland and is where the E8 highway connects Tromsø to the rest of the country. There are plenty of public transport options over to the island and Tromsø city centre, so this can be a good option if you want to save some money. Tromsdalen is where the iconic Arctic Cathedral is located, as well as the cable car Fjellheisen.

    High End

    Æra Glass Cabins

    This is one of the most unique places to stay in Tromsø. Here you can stay in one of the popular glass cabins that are great for northern lights spotting. The cabins are located about 30 minutes out of Tromsø by car but are a great option if you’re here for the lights.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Mid Range

    Tromsø Arctic Villa

    The Tromsø Arctic Villa is a beautiful historic house close to the Arctic Cathedral. There’s a fantastic view of Tromsø from here, and the villa is surrounded by a lovely garden. You can choose between a three-bedroom apartment or a one-bedroom apartment, but both options come with a kitchen, private bathroom, and living room. Free parking is available on site. You must stay for a minimum of two nights.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Budget Friendly

    Tromsø Camping

    Tromsø Camping is good value. They have charming cabins that come with either shared or private bathrooms, and some even come with a kitchen. There is free parking on the property and you get access to the sauna and the bar. When booking, you have to stay for a minimum of two nights. The ‘Economy cottages’ are the budget-friendly options (though very modern inside!), while the other cabins are definitely high-end priced but absolutely beautiful. It’s a great option if you are coming to see the northern lights but may not be able to afford all the pricey excursions. Since this place is out of the city centre, there’s less light pollution.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Are there Airbnbs?

    There are Airbnbs, but please don’t consider booking one. At the moment there is a housing crisis in Tromsø and it is hard for young people to get into the housing market as apartments and homes are being bought up by greedy landlords to sell on Airbnb.

    If you want an apartment, consider one of the Aparthotels mentioned in this guide. You can get much nicer quality hotels and apartments and don’t need to stay at an Airbnb. 

    Final Thoughts on Where to Stay in Tromsø

    There are so many options on where to stay in Tromsø, and it can be overwhelming. It’s important to remember your budget and then decide if you want to rent a car or not. From there, you can narrow down how close to Tromsø city you want to stay. 

    Be sure to check out my Tromsø travel guide! Here you can find all my recommendations of things to do and see, plus practical information for visiting the capital of the Arctic. 

  • A Brief History of the Pomor Trade

    A Brief History of the Pomor Trade

    When you visit Northern Norway, chances are you’ll come across something called the Pomor Trade. When I first started visiting Finnmark, I would typically disregard any mention of the Pomors as a small part of history here that had little importance. However, after visiting Vardø back in September 2023, I came to realise just how vital the Pomors had been to the development of Northern Norway.

    I’ve put together this article as a short historic overview of the Pomors. Perhaps it’ll benefit your own trip to Northern Norway!

    In this article...

    What is a Pomor?

    This took me way too long to figure out. A “Pomor” is actually an ethnographic group that come from Russian settlers from around the region of Novgorod. They came to the White Sea region hundreds of years ago, following the various river systems through Russia. The word ‘Pomor’ derives from the word ‘Pomorsky’ (which means ‘maritime’) and is a word used to describe the coast of the White Sea. 

    Historic Trade Between Russia and Norway & Development of the Pomor Trade

    The people of Norway and Russia have been trading for hundreds of years. In fact, it can be traced back to the Viking Age. The Russians were known to also trade with the Sami people. 

    Trade between Russians and the Norwegians began to come into its modern form when the trade monopoly in Bergen was legalised. Basically, the King said that all foreign merchants had to go to Bergen, and all fishermen had to sell their catch in Bergen. 

    However, for the fishermen this was tough. In the colder months it was no problem as the fish could stay preserved for the long journey, but for a few weeks over the summer the temperatures were too warm and the fish risked going bad.

    The Pomors found a way to exploit this – they could buy the fish directly from the fishermen (back then it was common to go through a middleman, which also drove up prices). It benefitted the fishermen, too – they could sell direct, the fish wouldn’t go bad, and they were able to get supplies from the Pomors without having to all the way to Bergen. Was it a little illegal? Sure. But back then Northern Norway didn’t have much law enforcement, so they were able to get away with it. 

    The beginning of the Pomor Trade and important trade connections

    The beginning of the Pomor Trade is generally regarded to be in the early 18th century, simply because trade began to become more organised. 

    At first, the trade was a barter trade between people in the area, who traded grain products from Russia with fish products from Norway. However, money began to be used in the early 18th century, and in some places in Northern Norway the ruble was used as a currency. Trading with the Pomors also originally had no taxes or customs fees. 

    The trade always involved the Pomors coming to Norway; the Norwegians rarely travelled to Russia. The Pomors would bring wheats and grains, but starting in the 18th century they began bringing rye flour, which was important for the Norwegians and another reason the Pomor trade officially began around that time. The grain was grown inland around the Volga River and then transported along the White Sea. 

    The trade of grain was vital for the Norwegians as it doesn’t grow along the coast. Also, in Norway in the 18th century there were several crop failures and the price of rye in Bergen increased fivefold. For the fishermen, having the Pomors come directly to them and selling the grains and flour at good prices was essential for survival. 

    In addition to rye and wheat flour, the Pomors carried other food, such as oatmeal, salt, peas, meat and dairy products. Other useful merchandise was also carried, such as iron, timber, tar, birch bark, candles, cooking pots, hemp, rope and canvas. They also brought luxury products, such as candy, soap, porcelain and wood carvings.

    From the Norwegians they would take fish of various sorts, mainly Atlantic cod and dry saithe, but also Atlantic halibut and haddock.

    Where did they trade?

    The main centre of the Pomor Trade in Norway was Vardø, which is located close to the Russian border. The harbour in Vardø could at times have over 100 Russian vessels moored simultaneously, and the town had a Russian consulate. 

    Other towns that were important for the Pomors include Hamningberg (a now abandoned fishing village) and Hammerfest, though the Pomors did trade in other places like Vadsø and Kjøllefjord. Tromsø gained trading privileges a few years later and was given the monopoly for trading with the Pomors in the region of Troms. Eventually the Pomors were trading as far south as the Lofoten Islands. 

    In Russia, the city of Arkangelsk was the centre of Pomor Trade, and it was founded in 1584 as a trade centre for the White Sea. 

    Arkangelsk 1896

    Attempts at Regulation

    As the Pomor Trade grew somewhat illegally, when Norwegian sovereignty was enforced over Northern Norway, there began to be attempts to control the Pomor Trade. 

    Already back in 1316 the King of the time, King Håkon V, prevented foreigners from trading in Northern Norway. All foreign ships had to stop in Bergen. 

    Until the Reformation in 1537, the trade between the North and the Hanseatic League in Bergen was controlled by the archbishop in Trondheim. After the Reformation, the privileges of trade were handed from the church to the citizens of Bergen and Trondheim, giving them a monopoly. 

    There are reports of Russians trading illegally from the 17th century onwards. If the Russians and Norwegians were caught trading outside of Bergen, the Norwegians would be denied winter supplies from Norwegian traders. This lasted until 1715. 

    In the late 18th century, trade was placed under control of the King and trading houses of Copenhagen. In 1783 the government in Copenhagen decided that the Pomor Trade should be somewhat legalised, and that North Norwegians should get their grain from the Russians rather than Denmark. The Danish King Christian VII gave Vardø, Hammerfest and Tromsø status of trading towns in order to regulate the Pomor trade better. 

    However, there was one thing in the way. The fact that the Pomors could trade freely with the fishermen was bad for the government, who were missing out on their precious taxes. So, it was made illegal. Eventually it was made legal again, but the Pomors could only trade directly with fishermen in the short weeks where the warm climate makes it difficult to preserve fish. 

    Napoleonic Wars

    The Pomor Trade was targeted by the British during the Napoleonic Wars. During the Gunboat War, the United Kingdom put a trade embargo on Denmark-Norway. This made the Pomor Trade almost essential for survival for the North Norwegians, and they got a special decree legalising direct trade between the Pomors and fishermen in 1809. 

    During the Anglo-Russian War, the British government established a blockade along the Norwegian coast. One of their goals was to stop the Pomor Trade and cut off supply lines of goods from Arkangelsk. The Norwegians responded by fortifying the important harbours, such as Hammerfest. In 1810, the Norwegians established a special naval squadron called “The Finnmark Squadron” to protect the Pomor Trade.

    However, despite all this the British did manage to bomb and heavily damage Hammerfest. 

    The Golden Age and Rapid End

    Throughout the 19th century the conditions in Norway began to improve and the dependence on grain from Russia began to decline. Eventually the trade privileges and rules were lifted in 1870, and the Pomors were more or less free to come as they please. These lighter regulations led to the Pomors modernising their vessels and by 1870, 400 Russian Pomor vessels visited Tromsø. Normally 300 vessels would visit all of Norway in one year. By 1900, Russia was Norway’s fourth most important trade partner, and rye flour remained the most important commodity. After 1910, less flour was traded, and the Russians paid for the fish with money instead. 

    Things sounded like they were going well, but everything ended abruptly in 1917, when the Russian Revolution ended all trade. This had understandable negative effects on the economy of Northern Norway, especially for the coastal communities as the fishermen no longer had the possibility to see their summer catch. Some Russian vessels still did come. The last vessel came in 1929, when Joseph Stalin’s collectivization came into full effect, ending private property rights and persecuting merchants. 

    Lasting impact of the Pomors

    It’s important to not understate the lasting effect the Pomor Trade had on the coastal communities in Northern Norway. Many of the villages along the Finnmark coast developed in the 19th century thanks to the Pomor Trade, and were able to afford luxuries they otherwise wouldn’t get. It also led to a good relationship between the two countries, and in 1875 there was even a regular steamship service between Arkangelsk and Vardø. This allowed for Russian tourism and seasonal workers in Finnmark. 

    Often the same Pomor vessels would visit the same place year after year, and the Norwegians got to know the crew. The Russians and the trade with them had high esteem in Northern Norway and they were known for being friendly. The people of Northern Norway also got an insight into a difficult culture and it in turn affected Norwegian culture. 

    Lastly, and also perhaps most interesting, a pidgin language developed between the Pomors and the North Norwegians called Russenorsk. Russenorsk has a restricted grammar mostly related to Arctic fishing and trading. You can find some examples of Russenorsk on Wikipedia: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Russenorsk

    Where to go from here

    If you want to learn more about the Pomor Trade, visit the city of Vardø, which is home to the Pomor Museum. The city also has wooden warehouses still standing from the Pomor time. You can read about Vardø on our travel guide page. 

    Please leave any questions or comments below!

  • Drive it Yourself: From the Lyngen Alps to Tromsø on the E6

    Drive it Yourself: From the Lyngen Alps to Tromsø on the E6

    The Lyngen Alps are described as the ‘Mecca’ for skiiers and hikers all over the world, with many dreaming of coming here just to make the most of the incredible downhill slopes. For those of us who aren’t here to ski, Lyngen is a gorgeous region perfect for a short vacation.

    We spent the night in the Lyngen region towards the end of our North Norwegian road-trip. For us, we chose it simply because it was roughly halfway between where we were (Hammerfest) and where we had to be (Tromsø). We found an adorable AirBNB overlooking the Alps and had a nice rest before finishing the drive.

    Most of this drive takes place on the E6, which also has the nickname ‘the Northern Lights Highway’ up here because of all the roadside stops perfect for viewing the lights. The E6 is the main highway running through Norway and while it is not the most scenic, it is the only way to get between places when you are this far north.

    Here’s an overview of what you can see along the way. 

    In this article...

    Downloadable Version of This Guide

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

    Online Guide

    Downloadable Guide

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    The drive: From the Lyngen Alps to Tromsø on the E6

    The Lyngen Alps

    The Lyngen Alps are a scenic mountain range that stretch 90km (56 mi) along the Lyngen Peninsula, with the Lyngen fjord to the east and the Ullsfjorden to the west.

    The mountains are popular among extreme skiers, with the highest summit being 1,833m (6,014ft) tall. The mountains are also popular with climbers.

    Olderdalen

    Olderdalen is the main centre for the Kåfjord Municipality we are in. The population is around 301 and the town looks out to the Lyngen Alps. If you use ferries, it is only a 70km drive. However, if you follow the E6 it is around 180km. Agriculture and fishing are the main industries.

    Birtavarre

    Birtavarre is a small village with a population of around 215. The village was a former mining town with smelters. It was during the mining period that it took the name Birtavarre; before then, it was known as ‘Kåfjordbotn’ after the fjord. The name Birtavarre comes from the nearby mountain Pirttivaara, which is a Kven language name.

    Manndalen

    Manndalen is a small village with a population of just under 1000. Historically, Manndalen was where the ‘three tribes’ (Kven, Sami, Norwegian) all settled. People began to arrive from Finland in the 1700s and many locals today consider themselves descendants of these people. The area was also used as the summer grazing area for the reindeer herding Sami. Today Manndalen is a centre for the revitalisation of Sea Sami culture and language and now there is a Sami department in the kindergarten and a Sami language centre. The Riddu Riđđu festival is an annual Sami music and culture festival that takes place here.

    The town was destroyed during World War II, and the town was rebuilt with temporary houses. At Sandeng Cemetery near Løkvell is the urn of Jan Baalsrud, a famous World War II resistance hero. He became fond of Manndalen after all the help he received in his escape from the Germans on the way to Sweden. Many locals were active in hiding him, giving him good, and getting him across the border into Sweden.  

    Storfjord

    Storfjord is a municipality in the Troms County of Northern Norway. The name comes from the Storfjorden that runs through the area, while the coat-of-arms shows three poppies that are rotated around a meeting point which represents the meeting point of the three countries Norway, Sweden, and Finland.

    The first peoples to live here were the Sami people. In the 19th century settlers from Finland and Southern Norway began to establish themselves. Sami culture has survived in parts of the municipality. In the 19th century the Laestadianism religious movement obtained a strong position, and Skibotn is still a stronghold for this movement.

    The landscape of Storfjord is characterised by alpine mountains, and the highest mountain is Vassdalsfjellet (1587m), while the most ‘famous’ mountain is Otertind.

    Skibotn

    Skibotn is a small village with a population of 538 located at the end of the Lyngen fjord and close to Kilpisjarvi in Finland. The residents of the village are either descendants of the Sami and Kven people or the Norwegian immigrants who came in the 19th century.

    Historically, Skibotn was a meeting point and market for the different ethnic groups in the area. The market still takes place today and is named ‘Skibotn markedsplass’ if you want to visit.

    Skibotn is the place in Norway that has registered the clearest days and it is one of the driest places in Norway. Because of the lack of clouds, there is an astrophysical observatory located in Skibotn.

    Kilpisjarvi

    In Skibotn you’ll pass the E8, which takes you into Finland and the town of Kilpisjarvi. Kilpisjarvi is one of the best places to see the northern lights because of its clear skies. We cover Kilpisjarvi and that drive in a separate article. 

    Balsfjord Municipality

    Balsfjord is a municipality in the Troms County of Northern Norway. The coat-of-arms depicts a yellow plough on a red background, symbolising the importance of agriculture in the municipality. The plough also symbolises that the municipality is at the northernmost border on which grain can be grown in Norway. No other area in Troms has so much cultivated land. Agriculture is mostly based on milk and meat production and Balsfjord has the highest number of cattle, sheep, and goats among the municipalities in Troms. One of the dairies is the country’s largest goat cheese producer.

    The Sami people were the first people to inhabit the area, but around 1800 new settlers came from Finland and Southern Norway. Today, very few traces of Sami culture survive. From the 18th until the 20th century, trappers from Balsfjord were active in the Arctic, hunting in the areas around Greenland and Svalbard.

    The municipality was home to a religious group of ‘mindekirken’ or ‘freechurch dissenters’ who split from the state church in Tromsø. They were led by a seminary student, Johannes Andreas Johannessen and they established their own church, the Free Apostolic Christian Church, in Balsfjord. Bomstad and his followers were said to have protested against the Tromsø state church minister and Troms Bishop’s religious rulings, eventually leading to a riot in Tromsø. The state church members yelled at Bomstad and his dissenters to “go back to Kautokieno!”. In 1862, Bomstad led a group of colonists to America, arriving into Chicago. After that they went to the area of St. Peter, Minnesota, where they remained. Bomstad left St. Peter and became the founding father of Lake Lillian in Minnesota. After staking his original claim, Bomstad and the rest of the colonists arrived at Lake Lillian and built dugout shelters to live. Eventually they all had log cabins to live in.

    Close to Balsfjord Church are 6000-year-old rock carvings at Tennes.

    Tromsø Municipality

    Tromsø Municipality is a major centre in Northern Norway. The municipality is milder than most settlements on the same latitude dur to the effect of the westerlies reaching this far north as well as the North Atlantic Drift, a branch of the Guld Stream. The population of the entire municipality is around 71,000. A detailed overview of the city of Tromsø can be found on our travel guide. 

    Tromsø

    The final stop is in Tromsø, the largest city in Northern Norway. You can find a detailed guide to Tromsø on our travel guide page. 

    Where to Go From Here

    From Tromsø you can continue your drive south to Narvik or you can head into Finland towards Kilpisjarvi. 

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • The History of Tromsø

    The History of Tromsø

    Tromsø is a cool city, in every sense of the word. It is the largest city in Northern Norway and is also one of the first settlements in the far north by Norwegians. Sami and Norwegian populations have lived alongside one another here for a thousand years, and in the last few centuries, the town has been built up as an important Arctic port. Here’s the history of Tromsø – everything you need to know before you go!

    In this article...

    Norway's Coastal Ferry

    Tromsø is a port of call of Norway’s coastal ferry. Find my guide for the coastal ferry by clicking the link below. 

    Tromsø´s Early History

    It’s believed that the area around Tromsø has been inhabited since the end of the Ice Age. The area around Tromsø became ice-free around 10,500 years ago. The area was first inhabited by the Sami people, and traces of Sami settlement can be found in the fjord areas around the city. At some point, Norwegians also settled in the area. Archaeological excavations have taken place at nearby Tønsvika, and they have turned up artefacts and remains of buildings that are believed to be up to 10,000 years old.

    The First Settlement in Tromsø

    During the Middle Ages, both Sami and Norwegian people lived here. Perhaps the earliest resident we know about is Ottar, the Viking traveller we met in Finnsnes (if travelling northbound on Hurtigruten). As mentioned in Finnsnes, Ottar lived somewhere in Troms, and one of the possibilities is near present-day Tromsø. He described himself as living “furthest to the north of all Norwegians” with areas north of this being populated by the Sami. Tromsø’s location correlates with this; Icelandic sources from the 12th-century state that the fjord ‘Malangen’ near Tromsø was a border between the Norse and Sami settlements, though there were some living on either side of the border. Both Norse and Sami Iron Age remains have been found on Kvaløya, the neighbouring island to Tromsø.

    The name Tromsø is a bit of a mystery; one theory suggests that ‘Troms’ derives from the old name of the island as several islands and rivers have the same name, which may derive from the word ‘straumr’ which means a strong stream. Another theory is that Tromsø was originally called ‘Store Tromsøya’ due to a characteristic mountain known as ‘Tromma’ (the Drum). The mountains name in Sami, Rumbbučohkka, is identical in meaning, and it is said to have been a sacred mountain for the Sami in pre-Christian times. The Sami name for the island is Romsa, which is assumed to be a loan word from Norse. The ‘ø’ at the end is an Old Norse (and present-day Danish) word for ‘island’ (today in Norway we say ‘Øy’ for island).

    Tromsø´s First Church

    The first church was built on Tromsøya island (the island where Tromsø is today) in 1252 and was believed to be commissioned by King Håkon Håkonsson, and the first time Tromsø is mentioned in historical documents is in The Saga of Håkon Håkonsson. It was called “The Church of Saint Mary in Troms near the heathens”, which just rolls off the tongue and refers to the Sami people, who followed their religion that wasn’t exactly in line with the new Norwegian Catholic religion. At the time, it was the northernmost church in the world. King Håkon also commissioned the building of a turf rampart called Skansen to protect the island against attacks from the Karelians (from Karelia, an area between the White Sea and the Gulf of Finland) and Russia. Today no traces of the original church remain (it was a simple wooden building), though it may have been built where the present-day Tromsø Cathedral is. Skansen still exists in the form of a grass mound with a diameter of 50 metres, and it’s visible near the Polar Museum.

    Historic Meeting Place

    While Tromsø didn’t develop into a proper town for another 500 years, it did become a settlement and meeting place. Few people did live here, and because of the church, more people from further away travelled to worship at Tromsø. Back then it was compulsory, and if you didn’t show up to church, you’d receive a fine or imprisonment. So, while Tromsø didn’t have a large population, it became a local meeting place for isolated communities in the area.

    Tromsø was also an important location for Norway when considering the proximity to Russia. Originally, the border extended towards the Lyngen Alps, and the state of Novgorod in Russia was able to tax the Sami up until this point. Norway was also able to tax the Sami as far east as the Kola Peninsula. So, the Sami people had to pay taxes to both states if they lived in that area. Sometimes even the Swedes and Finns would try to claim tax from the Sami, depending on where they lived! During the next 500 years, Norway’s border with Russia and Norwegian settlement would extend east towards Varanger, near Kirkenes, making Tromsø lose its status as a ‘frontier town’.

    Tromsø Begins to Grow

    While Tromsø wasn’t really a town until the 18th century, there is evidence of people living here (besides the first church). Back then, if someone living as far north as Tromsø wanted to trade, they had to travel to Vågan in Lofoten or to Bergen in the south-west. The first trader was mentioned as coming from Tromsø in 1536 when they had travelled south to conduct trade. It’s believed it was the priests of the church that were the ones making the trip to Vågån to trade; it was common back then for the priests to also be merchants. We also know people were living here in the early 17th century, as Tromsø (like many other places in Northern Norway) conducted witchcraft trials, and three people were burned at the stake. Then, in the early 18th century, a new church was built to replace the old one.

    Settling the North

    During the 17th century, Denmark-Norway was solidifying its claim to the northern coast of Scandinavia, and Skansen was reinforced at Tromsø. Then, despite being home to only around 80 people, in 1794 Tromsø was issued a city charter by King Christian VII. This coincided with the abolition of Bergen’s centuries-old monopoly on the trade of cod. Bergen lost its trading privileges in 1789, and the people in Northern Norway were now free to trade with whoever they wanted. Hammerfest and Vardø were the first towns to get city status, but Norway wanted a third city in the North, and a debate had arisen as to where it would be. Candidates were Gibostad near Finnsnes and Gausvik near Harstad, but in the end, Tromsø was the city that won.

    The development and growth of Tromsø wasn’t immediate; in 1807 the population was only 100. And even though a new church had been completed in 1803, the present-day Elverhøy Church (it was relocated in 1861) and in 1804 the Diocese of Hålogaland was created and headquartered in Tromsø. The town was met with hard times during the Napoleonic Wars; in 1812 the town was attacked by English forces. In the Battle of Pølsehamna, the small Danish-Norwegian garrison set itself so strongly to counter that the English didn’t dare to enter the city; the day they left, the 2nd of August 1812, is still celebrated as an important anniversary in the Danish Naval Defence.

    The Pomor Trade

    During the 19th century, the Pomor Trade with Russia became increasingly popular. Trade with Russia had begun in 1725, while Bergen still had the trading monopoly, and Tromsø (before it got city rights) was the starting point for the trading routes eastwards and became one of the most important Pomor Trade Centres in the north. Pomor Trade continued until the Russian Revolution in 1917.

    Arctic Hunting

    Arctic hunting started around 1820 with expeditions to Svalbard, Greenland, and even as far west as Canada. By 1850, Tromsø had developed into a major centre of Arctic hunting, overtaking the former centre Hammerfest. Tromsø had direct trading links with Arkhangelsk, Bordeaux, and Central Europe. The trade of Arctic goods, whether it be hides, skins, bones or food, accelerated the development of the town and the entire harbour area on the east side of the island was developed as a continuous urban area of piers and residential houses with large gardens. Some of these buildings remain, especially the mansions on Sjøgata and Skippergata.

    Tromsø also became an important departure point from which many Arctic expeditions originated. Explorers like Roald Amundsen, Umberto Nobile and Fritjof Nansen made use of the know-how in Tromsø on the conditions in the Arctic and often recruited their crews in the city.

    Tromsø Develops into a City

    Just 10 years after Arctic hunting had started, Tromsø’s population had risen from a little over 100 to 1,200. Land on the island was sold off so the locals could develop country houses and farmsteads; present-day Hope, Nøysomheden, Charlottenlund and Sommerlyst are the names of such old country estates. Sjøgata (Sea Street) was developed as the main street, while Storgata (Big Street) was a back alley with more modern buildings.

    The increase in trade with other countries, the influx of foreigners and visiting summer tourists introduced new trends among local people. Furniture from Europe, fashions, entertainment and socialising helped develop the town into a cultural hub. Travelling associations brought literature, music, the circus and theatre to the town. Special clubs formed for French, German and Russian language speakers.

    A travel guide from 1841 says:

    ‘No other place in the far north has impressed as us much as Tromsø. The attraction is not its large population but rather to experience its bustling commerce, its lively company, and its rapid rise; to put it another way – the young and invigorating life that is emerging in this booming town.’

    Paris of the North

    Tromsø quickly developed the nickname ‘The Paris of the North’. How this nickname came to be is uncertain, but it is generally assumed that people in Tromsø appeared to be far more sophisticated than what visitors from the south were expecting. The women were often dressed in the finest clothing, the locals had very good formation and language skills, and there was a strong culture in Tromsø. All of this was thanks to the large amount of money that was coming in from the fish and Arctic trade. Also, the people in Tromsø were trading directly with Europe and not going through a trade house such as the one in Oslo. Several places in Tromsø have French names because of these strong trading links.

    The commercial and cultural development of Tromsø continued, and in 1838 the postal ship ‘Prinds Gustav’ began sailing to Tromsø during the summer route from Trondheim. In 1848, the teacher training college moved from Trondenes (near Harstad) to Tromsø with part of its mission being to educate Sami scholars – there was a quote ensuring the Sami gained access. The same year, the Tromsø Shipyard was established. In 1847, a local ferry began sailing from Tromsø to the outlying villages. Tromsø Cathedral was built in 1861 and Tromsø Museum opened in 1872; the same year the first railway planning committee met to discuss building a rail network. Tromsø still does not have a rail network. Mack Brewery was founded in 1877.

    By 1890, the population had increased to 6,000. In 1893, the first Hurtigruten ship called at Tromsø. At the start of the 1900s, better quays and breakwaters were built, providing safer facilities for fishing boats and steamships. By this time, almost all of Tromsø island had been cleared for housing or building, so neighbouring municipalities were swallowed up to become Tromsø. Today, Tromsø is one of the largest municipalities in Norway by area.

    World War II

    When Germany invaded Norway in 1940, Tromsø briefly served as the seat of the Norwegian Government while King Haakon VII and the government hide out here. They left Tromsø with the cruiser Devonshire on 7 June 1940 and would not return to Norway after the war.

    The Battleship Tirpitz

    Tirpitz var en av andre verdenskrigs store drama - Visit Nord-Norge
    Tirpitz as it can be seen today

    Tromsø was an important base for the Germans throughout the war, and the city escaped the war unscathed. The most dramatic event to happen in Tromsø throughout the war involves the Tirpitz. The German Battleship Tirpitz was sunk by RAF Avro Lancaster during Operation Catechism off Tromsøya Island on 12 November 1944, killing close to 1,000 German soldiers. The Tirpitz was the largest German battleship ever built. It still lies off the coast and is visible during low tide.

    “South Point”, which was established in 1941 for political prisoners. The first prisoners were male Jews from Tromsø. There were around 120 men in the camp. The second camp was “Krøkebaersletta”, which was a camp for political prisoners who had participated in military resistance. The prisoners here were subject to terrible treatment. On 20 October 1943, eight prisoners were sentenced to death and executed. The number of prisoners at any one time was around 250, though 2,500 prisoners passed through here on their way to larger camps. The third camp was “Isrenna”, established in 1942 for Russian prisoners of war. After the war, both Krøkebaersletta and Isrenna were used as prison camps for traitors and members of the Gestapo.

    During the forced evacuation of Northern Norway, which was being devastated due to the Germans ‘scorched earth’ policy, Tromsø received 7381 evacuees from the area. Additionally, 6000 Germans came to Tromsø after leaving Finland; this brought the total number of German soldiers in Tromsø at the end of the ear to 14,000. At the end of the war, more refugees from Northern Norway went to Tromsø and stayed there; resulting in a huge boom in the population.

    Post-war Growth

    Expansion after World War II was rapid. More municipalities merged with Tromsø, tripling the population. Overall, population growth has been strong compared to many places in the north, with the population growing by more than 1,000 every year even today.

    The rapid growth led to many areas being overlooked, and Tromsø became a run-down city. Many materials and money were being sent elsewhere in Northern Norway to try and rebuild destroyed towns. This lack in care led to two major fires in Tromsø in 1948 and 1969, so while Tromsø was one of the towns saved from destruction during the war, many of the pre-war buildings were destroyed by fire.

    Throughout the 1960s Tromsø got many new structures. In 1960, the Tromsdalen bridge was built, connecting the island to the mainland; in 1961, the cable car opened. The Tromsø Airport and famous Arctic Cathedral were completed in 1964, and then in 1972, the University of Tromsø was opened. The local teachers college and the museum were incorporated into the University. Today, the University is the third largest in the country.

    In the 1990s, an underwater bridge was built connecting the island to the mainland. The Norwegian Polar Institute was moved to Tromsø from Oslo in 1998.

    Norway's Coastal Ferry

    Tromsø is a port of call of Norway’s coastal ferry. Find my guide for the coastal ferry by clicking the link below. 

  • Tromsø Self-Guided Walking Tour: Highlights & Hidden Gems

    Tromsø Self-Guided Walking Tour: Highlights & Hidden Gems

    Tromsø is a city best explored on foot, so I’ve put together a self-guided walking tour based on where I like to go when I’m in the city. I’ve also put this together with the Hurtigruten in mind and the time that has to be taken into account when you’re only in the city for four hours. I took these photos in February 2020 in the middle of winter; hopefully I’ll get some photos this summer to show how different the city looks when there’s no snow!

    Tromsø is one of the most popular places to visit in Norway, and I can understand why. Called the “Arctic Capital of Norway”, Tromsø is located far, far north above the Arctic Circle, making it perfect in summer for the midnight sun or in winter for the northern lights. It’s got museums, restaurants, shopping, various outdoor activities, and countless lovely hotels. It’s also one of the most popular ports on the Hurtigruten, especially when travelling northbound (4 hours in the city!).

    In this article...

    Norway's Coastal Ferry

    Tromsø is a port of call of Norway’s coastal ferry. Find my guide for the coastal ferry by clicking the link below. 

    Download this Guide

    All of our guides can be downloaded via our online store. 

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

    Online Guide

    Downloadable Guide

    Practical Info

    • If you are doing this walk during winter, be wary of ice. Tromsø can get very icy, and they don’t always cover the ice with gravel. Some paths are heated, meaning no ice, but you will encounter ice on this trip.
    • This trip can be broken up with visits to the cable car, Polar Museum, and Perspective Museum.
    • If you’re doing this trip while on Hurtigruten, always keep an eye on the time. I did this walk in around 45 minutes (lots of photo-taking stops) with no entrances.
    • Walk length: 1.8km (1.1 miles) / Mostly flat (hilly if detouring to the Catholic Church).

    Tromsø Self-Guided Walking Tour

    Arctic Cathedral View

    Completed in 1965, the Arctic Cathedral stands out over the cityscape. The white, glacier-like appearance is supposed to represent the stockfish drying racks, the Northern Lights, and the eleven Apostles that were left after the betrayal. The entire east wall is formed by a huge stained-glass window, one of the largest in Europe, and the organ is built to represent a ship when viewed from beneath.

    The Arctic Cathedral is generally open, but to get there you’d need to take bus 26, explained later in this walk. If you’re in Tromsø for a couple of days, consider attending one of their concerts: https://www.ishavskatedralen.no/en/the-arctic-cathedral/concerts/

    Roald Amundsen Statue

    Since Tromsø was an important harbour area for Arctic exploration, it makes sense to have a statue of Roald Amundsen in one of the town squares. Amundsen (1872-1928) was a Norwegian explorer who led the first expedition to traverse the Northwest Passage by sea and also the first expedition to the South Pole. He also led the first expedition proven to have reached the North Pole in a dirigible in 1926.

    Behind the Amundsen statue is the North Norwegian Museum for Art, a free museum with rotating exhibitions all about life in the north.

    Jewish Memorial

    Tucked away in the corner of the park is a monument for the Jewish members of the community who were deported during World War II. The monument reads: “in memory of the Jews from Tromsø killed in German concentration camps. Erected with deep love by their countrymen. We must never regret”. All 17 Jews were deported from Tromsø. 16 died in 1943, and 1 died in 1945.

    Smørtorget

    This is an old square from the times when Tromsø was an active market down. Called The Butter Market when translated to English, it was a place where farmers came with butter and dairy products to sell. There were plenty of different businesses, though – a bakery, butcher, pharmacy, hotel, barbershop, textiles and souvenir shops. This was also where Tromsø’s first roundabout was – the streets in town were so narrow and horses with carriages needed room to turn. Here the square was wide enough, so they would take a lap around the square before returning home. Nearby were small cottages that were used as a shelter for people coming from afar for church on Sundays, but eventually they became permanent homes of artists and tenants.

    While Smørtorget survived during World War II, the fire destroyed some of the houses, and development in the 1970s destroyed some more of them. There is a cafe in the square called Smørtorget that has some lovely photos and information boards inside. It also doubles as a secondhand shop, so it’s worth going inside for a look!

    Sjøgata 6 (Green Timber House)

    Sjøgata 6 is a green timber house that was built in the mid-19th century and was owned by the Austad family, a wealthy merchant family who owned many properties in Tromsø. For a while, the property was divided into four different apartments where different merchants and traders lived. It became a florist in the mid-1970s and still is today.

    Dreyergården

    This is another example of a 19th-century merchants house – typically merchants houses end in ‘gård’ which means farm or tenement. Dreyer Gården was built in 1837 for Jørgen Dreyer, who had been brought to Tromsø as a servant. He received a merchant licence and, in collaboration with his old employer, formed the company “Killengreen & Dreyer”. Within a few years, they had one of the city’s largest commercial houses, co-owned several shops and exported goods. The son, Christian Frederik Dreyer joined the company and renamed it “JC Dreyer & Son”. After his father’s death, Christian moved into the building. He had spent several years in Russia and had some good contacts within the Pomor Trade. He became known as “Russe-Dreyer” and was one of the largest merchants of Pomor products from the White Sea.

    Tromsø Self-Guided Walking Tour

    Aunegården

    Aunegården is another merchant’s house, built in 1860 for the merchant Hilmar Holmeboe. From 1878, it was the home of the local butcher. The butcher operated for 120 years until the business closed down in 1995. Today, it is a restaurant on the lower floor and a hub for Tromsø’s local guides on the upper floor. It was one of the few buildings to survive the 1969 fire.

    *2022 update – the building is no longer used by the guides. 

    Bus 26 Stop: Arctic Cathedral & Cable Car

    Once you reach the Peppes Pizza, you have reached the bus stop for the bus that will take you over to the Arctic Cathedral and Tromsø’s Cable Car. There is a ticket machine at the stop, so buy a ticket and then take BUS 26 to:

    • Arctic Cathedral: Ishavskatedralen
    • Tromsø Cable Car: Fjellheisen

    It takes 5 or so minutes to reach the Cathedral, and then the Cable Car is another 10 minutes away. It is possible to do the cable car within the four hours Hurtigruten is in Tromsø.

    Kystens hus

    You’ll find a fish market inside this building. This is a place where you can buy the stockfish or perhaps try some whale meat. On the walls they have a nice historical photograph and some information about the old fishing business.

    Old Fishing Warehouses

    Here we are on Tromsø’s old harbour! These warehouses were built in the early 20th century after a fire from 1902 destroyed the previous buildings. Originally they would’ve gone out into the water; this walkway was added recently. On the buildings, you can see where the hooks to lift up the barrels of fish used to be, and the wide windows were once openings to put the barrels into the building.

    Polar Museum

    Located in the old customs house from 1830, the Polar Museum is a fascinating museum about Arctic hunting, life, and exploration. The lower floor focuses on Arctic hunting, while the upper floor focuses on the Arctic explorers. It’s a great museum worthy of a visit; allow for 40-60 minutes depending on how much reading you want to do. Nice little souvenir shop, too!

    Old Customs Building

    Across from the Polar Museum, you’ll see a green house with a bust of Roald Amundsen out the front. This is an old customs building and served as the customs house for around 100 years. It was in use until the 1970s and since 1992 has been the administration building for the Polar Museum.

    Skansen

    Skansen is a well-known 13th-century fortification that was built by King Håkon Håkonsson (who also built Håkons Hall in Bergen). The ramparts were built using stones and peat and were constructed as a defence against attacks from the Karelians (from Karelia, an area between the White Sea and the Gulf of Finland) and Russia. Today Skansen is a circular mound with a marked raised outer periphery and a diameter of 50 metres. It’s especially hard to see in winter.

    Knudsen gården

    Knudsen Gården was built in 1822 for the customs officer, and from 1843-1858 the building served as the post office. Well-known 19th-century novelist Bernt Lie lived here during the 1880s. The building has the last city private garden; the others have disappeared throughout the years due to development.

    Aargard Gården

    This was the home of the wealthy and well-known Aargard family, who sold “fish, hides, skin, salt, grain and colonial goods”.

    Ingvald Jaklin statue

    Ingvald Jaklin was a Norwegian politician for the Labor Party who also served as mayor of Tromsø after World War II.

    Seafarers Home

    This beautiful building was built in 1860 as a merchants house but later went on to serve as a hospital. Since 1926, it was a retirement home for seafarers.

    The mine out front is a collection box to gather money for seamen who were made homeless after the submarine wars of 1916. The caption reads:

    “ditt troll – du var sjømannens skrækk sank ham nu klingende mynt i din sækk”. It’s written in Old Norwegian, but it roughly means “You troll (referring to the mine), you were the seafarers fear, sinking him to get coins in your pouch”

    Perspective Museum

    The building was built in 1838 as a large commercial house for the export of cod and fish products and trade of grain, colonial goods, manufacturing and factory products. Today it houses the Perspective Museum, a free exhibition full of photographs of old Tromsø. When I visited, it had exhibitions on LGBT rights and religious history.

    Verdens Theatret

    This is Norway’s oldest cinema that’s still in use, and it dates back to 1915. Inside you can see signs for the Tromsø International Film Festival, which is held in January and includes an outdoor cinema!

    Skancke Gården

    This yellow timber house (now a shop called Nille) is an old merchants house from the early 19th-century.

    Bispegård

    The building on the street corner is Bispegård, or the bishop’s residence. It has been the Catholic bishops residence since 1860. When Pope John Paul II visited Tromsø in 1989, he spent the night here on the 3rd of June.

    Option: If you want to see the world’s northernmost Catholic church, head up the street behind Bispegård. When I did it in February, I found it very icy to the point that I didn’t make it as far as I wanted to (hence the subpar photos). But if you’re doing this in summer, it’ll be fine!

    Catholic Church

    The Catholic Church was built in 1861 and is the world’s northernmost Catholic Episcopal seat with the world’s most northerly Catholic bishop. The church is also the geographical centre of Tromsø!

    You can see that the church is connected to Bispegården, which reveals itself as a truly large building.

    Løkkekiosken

    The little hot dog stand is Løkkekiosken, a treasure of Tromsø. Meaning ‘Onion Kiosk’ in English (even though it’s just named after the owner and not for the shape), this was built in 1911 for 18-year-old Margrit Løkke, who wanted to sell goods from the stall. It was listed as an important cultural monument in 2009.

    World's Northernmost Burger King

    I mean what else can you say about it? Why not go in and get a burger from the world’s northernmost Burger King!

    * It’s actually the second-northernmost Burger King because there’s another one at a shopping mall a few kilometres north. But still, this is close enough

    Tromsø Cathedral

    Tromsø Cathedral is Norway’s only wooden cathedral. It was built in 1861 and seats 600 people. It’s believed that it is built on the site of the previous churches, possibly all the way back to 1252 when the first church was built here. The stained glass windows on the cathedral were designed by Gustav Vigeland and were installed in 1960.

    Norway's Coastal Ferry

    Tromsø is a port of call of Norway’s coastal ferry. Find my guide for the coastal ferry by clicking the link below.