Tromsø

  • Museums, Tromsø

    The Polar Museum in Tromsø

    The Polar Museum in Tromsø

    The Polar Museum in Tromsø is a renowned museum that offers an immersive experience into the rich history of Arctic exploration and the polar regions. The museum commemorates Tromsø’s important role as a gateway for Arctic expeditions and highlights the stories of explorers, hunters and scientists who ventured into the challenging Arctic region.

    I’ve been to the Polar Museum several times, and truly believe that it’s a must-see when visiting Norway. So, here’s my practical guide for visiting the Polar Museum in Tromsø. 

    In this article...

    Norway's Coastal Ferry

    Tromsø is a port of call of Norway’s coastal ferry. Find my guide for the coastal ferry by clicking the link below. 

    Norway's Coastal Ferry
    Tromsø Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    About the Museum

    The Polar Museum in Tromsø officially opened on the 18th of June 1978, the 50th anniversary of Roald Amundsens fateful flight aboard the “Latham”.

    With its location in the Arctic, Tromsø has served as the gateway to the Arctic for adventurers, hunters and researchers.

    The museum is located in the former customs house in Tromsø. The building dates back to 1830, and was used as a bonded warehouse to the customs authorities until the 1970s. The museum also owns the neighbouring building, which was built in 1840. It was also used as a customs house but is now the museum’s administration building.

    Inside the Museum

    As you can see, the museum is quite small and can get crowded – especially in the afternoons!

    Layout of the Museum

    The layout of the museum is as follows:

    Ground Floor:
    Room 1: Trapping in the Arctic
    Room 2: Svalbard in the 1600s and 1700s
    Room 3: Hunting Situation
    Room 4: Seal Hunting – Zoological Exhibition
    Room 5: Seal Hunting

    1st Floor:
    Room 6: Aircrafts & the Arctic
    Room 7: Henry Rudi & Wanny Woldstad
    Room 8: Walrus Hunting & Polar Bear Hunting
    Room 9: Roald Amundsen
    Room 10: Fridtjof Nansen

    Most text displays are in Norwegian, but there are printed documents with translations into English. You can’t take them with you, however. They are wonderfully detailed, so I actually took photos of all of them so I could read them later.

     

    What the information boards look like. It’s a little tricky to read as it’s quite far away (unless you have amazing eyesight!). 

    Hunting & Trapping

    The first exhibition is about Arctic hunting and trapping. It explores the traditions of Arctic hunters and trappers who braved extreme conditions for survival and trade. Here you can see tools, weapons and artifacts related to seal hunting, the trapping of polar bears and Arctic foxes, as well as the fur trade. The information goes into detail about how they survived, especially in the difficult winters.

    The exhibits are wonderfully built. I think this is why I love older museums; there was so much work put into creating displays. New museums (in my opinion) rely too much on tech. But here, at the Polar Museum, you can step into a trappers cabin and see exactly what it looked like. They also have all the tools and furs out on display.

    While some scenes may be shocking, it’s important to remember that the world was different 200 years ago, and for many this was their only way to make a living. And, this far north, this type of meat was much fresher than bringing something up from the south.

    On the walls you’ll find dozens of photos of actual trapping and hunting that took place. Some of them have captions in English, but not all of them. Some also include captions in German.

    These are the translated guides that you have to carry with you. But look below to see how detailed it is!

    Svalbard

    I love Svalbard (I have a whole section dedicated to Svalbard on the website! Click here to see it), and the Svalbard Museum provides an even better overview than what you get in the Polar Museum. Still, this exhibition provides an excellent overview of Svalbard and may even encourage you to book a trip there. The exhibition on Svalbard provides a historic overview of the region and how it came to be a hub for Arctic hunting and exploration.

    Seal Hunting

    There is a special section in the museum dedicated to seal hunting. Seal hunting is quite controversial in Norway today, but is a very small industry. The only place I’ve seen seal meat for sale was in Svalbard. Still, this exhibition provides context into why seal hunting was happening, how it worked, and what the seal was used for. There are displays showing all the different types of seal skins, the process of seal hunting, and then seal hunting in modern times and the controversies that come with it. I particularly like the displays showing all the different navigational tools that were used to get to Svalbard (it’s in the same area as the seal hunting).

    Polar Bears & Airships

    Upstairs you’ll see some models of the various airships that were used in the polar exploration missions. There are even photos on display, including one of the well-known airship Norge, which departed from Vadsø to fly over the North Pole. Most of the text on the wall here is only in Norwegian, making it challenging to follow in English.

    Next to it is an exhibition on polar bear hunting, another controversial topic that does not happen anymore. Still, seeing and learning about how these trappers caught polar bears is quite impressive!

    Arctic Explorers

    On the upper floor the main focus is the polar expeditions, which I find to be one of the highlights of the museum. Here you can learn about the Arctic explorers such as Fridtjof Nansen and Roald Amundsen. Their pioneering efforts in navigating uncharted territories and advancing polar science are celebrated with maps, photographs, and equipment. The museum especially focuses on Tromsø as a departure point for Arctic missions and its role in supporting the explorers.

    Here you’ll see items that belonged to these iconic explorers, as well as photographs of their missions and diaries they kept on their travels. The English booklets go onto wonderful detail about each polar explorer and break down all their missions. Again, it’s a perfect thing to take a photo of to read later!

    Tromsø Historic Photos

    As you leave the exhibition to make your way back to the lobby, you’ll find some excellent historic photos of Tromsø. It’s incredible to see how small the town was just 150 years ago.

    Practical Information

    Local name

    Polarmuseet

    Getting Here

    The Polar Museum is located approximately 15-20 minutes on foot from the Coastal Ferry Terminal. It’s approximately five minutes from the end of the main shopping street, Storgata. The museum is located by the fish market on the harbour. 

    Admission & Prices

    You can view up-to-date prices by visiting their website: https://en.uit.no/tmu/polarmuseet

    Opening Hours

    The museum is open daily, with the opening hours being 11am to 5pm in the winter. 

    I recommend checking their website for up-to-date opening hours: https://en.uit.no/tmu/polarmuseet/planlegg

    Facilities

    There is no cafe here, but there is a lovely gift shop. The gift shop is excellent and has a huge selection of books on the Arctic. You can also pick up beautiful locally made souvenirs. 

    Guided Tours

    During the summer (1 June to 15 August), there are guided tours of the museum at 1pm. I do recommend going; the guides help put everything in context.

    Accessibility

    Unfortunately, since this is an old building, the museum is only wheelchair accessible on the ground floor, as there’s a set of stairs to the second floor. Even so, the ground floor is very narrow and can be crowded, so it’s not easy to navigate through.

    Final Thoughts on the Polar Museum

    Overall, I believe the Polar Museum is an important institution educating visitors about the Arctic’s history, wildlife, and the human spirit of exploration. It also underscores Tromsø’s identity as the Arctic capital and provides a sobering reflection on humanity’s interactions with the polar environment. While you may not agree with all the practices that took place here, it’s important to understand why and how it happened.

    The museum is a must on any visit to Tromsø!

    Tromsø Travel Guide

    Be sure to check out my Tromsø travel guide! Here you can find all my recommendations of things to do and see, plus practical information for visiting the beautiful Arctic capital. 

  • Northern Lights, Tromsø

    How to See the Northern Lights in Tromsø

    How to see the Northern Lights in Tromsø

    Tromsø is one of the best places in the world to witness the northern lights. But how do you see the northern lights in Tromsø?

    I’ve been working as a northern lights trip leader for four seasons now. I take groups on two week trips up to Northern Norway and Finland to see the northern lights. On top of that, I follow all the Facebook groups for Tromsø that debate how to see the northern lights. Often I see the same questions over and over again, as well as the same mistakes, so I thought I’d put it all together into a guide so you can make sure you’re making the most of your visit.

    Here’s my guide to how you can optimise your chances for a successful experience. 

    In this article...

    TROMSØ Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Choose the Right Time of Year & Day

    The best time to see the northern lights in Tromsø is from September through to early April. The best time for the lights in Tromsø is between 6pm and 2am, though they can be seen any time it is dark enough. The optimal time is due to the earths rotation, with the aurora belt being strongest on one side and weaker on one side.

    If you just want to see the lights and avoid cold weather and snow, then I recommend going in September. If you want to combine northern lights with all the wintery activities, I recommend going in February and March. October – January can have excellent northern lights, but it’s often stormy and rainy and the darkest time of year, meaning you never get to see how beautiful the area is.

    Give Yourself Enough Time

    You need to spend at least four nights above the arctic circle to give yourself the best chance of seeing the lights. It’s often cloudy in Tromsø, so many nights are not optimal. I actually recommend spending a week up there if you are very eager to see the lights.

    Check Weather & Solar Activity

    It’s important for the northern lights that you have clear skies and avoid cloudy conditions. Tromsø’s weather can be unpredictable, so keep an eye on forecasts. Even if the weather forecast is cloudy, still check outside. The forecasts can often be wrong!

    In Tromsø, the weather forecast is more important than the solar forecast. Tromsø is exposed to the sea and frequently gets bad weather and clouds, so it’s important to be aware of this before going.

    It’s also important to check solar activity. While Tromsø is so far north even weak and inactive northern lights can be visible, it’s best to keep an eye on the activity so you know when there’ll be strong nights or weak nights.

    It’s worth noting that the northern lights may suddenly appear as explosions in the sky, and then disappear quickly again. Or they may appear as a fog for hours before exploding in the sky. It’s important to be actively looking throughout the evening, and not give up too early.

    I took this photo approximately 20 minutes out of Tromsø and we were parked by the highway (was on a guided tour). 

    Go to a Dark Location

    While the northern lights can be seen from Tromsø city centre, they’ll never look as good as they can without light pollution. Therefore, you need to get out of the lights of the city.

    If in Tromsø centre, the best places to go are:
    Fjellheisen cable car
    Prestvannet Lake is a nature reserve with no artifical illumination.
    Kongsbakken park has no streetlights.
    Telegrafbukta is a popular beach on the southern tip of the island and is a top choice for spotting the northern lights.

    Alternatively, you can book accommodation out of the city centre so you’ll be guaranteed dark nights. On this occasion, you may want to hire a car to take yourself into the city every day.

    I’m not going to recommend places out of the city centre as I do not encourage you renting a car and driving around.

    Go on a Guided Tour

    My best advice is to go on an organised tour with a local guide who is able to share their knowledge and offer some advice. The guides monitor the weather, cloud cover and northern lights activity carefully.

    There are two different times of northern lights tours:

    A northern lights hunt involves going by car, minibus, or full-size bus and the focus of this activity is seeing the northern lights.

    A northern lights experiences combines hunting for the northern lights with an activity, such as dog sledding, snowmobiling, or a reindeer safari. In this case, the focus of the activity is the experience, and the northern lights is the bonus.

    Which one is better? This is completely up to you! Some prefer the idea of doing an experience so the entire night isn’t a waste in case you don’t see the lights, but experiences make it harder to photograph the northern lights.

    Northern lights may only appear for a minute, so it’s important to have someone constantly watching the sky.

    I recommend browsing the VisitTromsø website for ideas on what kind of tours you can do: https://www.visittromso.no/northern-lights

    Go on a Cruise

    Northern lights cruises are another good way to see the lights. These cruises take you far out of the city lights and will provide stunning backdrops with mountains and fjords as you take photographs of northern lights.

    My photo above was taken from Hurtigruten near the port of Skjervøy. Being on a ship can give a more dynamic photo, but you have to adjust to the fact that the ship is moving. 

    Book Everything in Advance

    It’s important to keep in mind that Tromsø is extremely popular for northern lights tourism, and everything books out months in advance. This includes the good hotels and northern lights guides. So be organised and have everything ready well before you come to Tromsø.

    Go Somewhere Else in Norway

    Tromsø is not the only city in Norway that gets northern lights. If you want to avoid overly crowded areas and mass tourism, here are some other places that offer northern lights experiences and tours and won’t be as busy:
    – Alta
    – Kirkenes
    – Narvik
    – Svolvær
    – Kautokeino

    Do not Hire a Car!

    I know it can be tempting to hire a car to go out northern lights searching yourself, but I do not recommend it. The roads can be icy and dark, and if you aren’t used to driving on ice in the dark, you risk crashing and injuring yourself of others. Many may also not focus clearly on the road if they are eager to get to a northern lights spot. Please book a tour – it’s for the safety of yourself and the locals.

    TROMSØ Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Emma's Northern Lights Diary

    You can see all my northern lights sightings using the link below. 

    Emma's Northern lights diary

    How to Observe the Northern Lights

    Here’s my general guide to observing the northern lights. 

    How to observe the northern lights
  • Tromsø, Where to Stay

    Where to Stay in Tromsø, from a Tour Leader’s Perspective

    Where to Stay in Tromsø from a Tour Leader's Perspective

    Tromsø is an incredible Arctic city and in the last decade or so has become a very popular place to stay. It is completely understandable, too. In winter, you get northern lights and fun winter activities like husky safaris, whale safaris, and skiing. In summer, there are amazing hikes and places to go cycling. The increasing number of visitors in Tromsø has led a boom in the construction of hotels, and now there is plenty of choice for travellers with all budgets. 

    I’ve put together this guide for the best places to stay in Tromsø based on my experience going there for work as a tour leader but also the times I’ve been there for my work on this website. I’ve stayed in a few different places in a few different regions of Tromsø, so hope this guide can provide some help!

    Tip: Book the hotel as far in advance as possible. Good hotels sell out months in advance and up to a year in advance if during the northern lights season, so you don’t want to miss out on a good price and good hotel. 

    Affiliate links: None of the hotels recommended here are paid placements or have sponsored this article in any way. This guide comes from my years of experience travelling to Tromsø for work and holiday, and I’m simply choosing the hotels I believe to be the best choice. That said, if you book through the link provided here, I get a small commission at no extra cost to you, and that money contributes to this website. I appreciate any support I can get 🙂

    Price Range:

    Budget: Less than 1500 NOK a night
    Mid-range: 1500 – 2600 NOK a night
    High end: 2600 NOK a night

    I looked at one night in March in the following year from when I wrote this article to get my price list.

    In this article...

    Tromsø Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Norway's Coastal Ferry

    Tromsø is a port of call of Norway’s coastal ferry. Find my guide for the coastal ferry by clicking the link below. 

    Norway's Coastal Ferry

    Map of Tromsø

    Tromsø City Centre (Tromsøya Island)

    Why Stay Here?

    If you are coming into Tromsø without a car, plan on booking lots of excursions, or just want to be close to everything, the city centre is the place for you. This guide includes all the hotels on the island of Tromsøya, which is the island where Tromsø city and the airport are located. However, convenience comes at a price and it is here that you’ll find Tromsø’s most expensive hotels. 

    High End

    Clarion Hotel The Edge

    Clarion Hotel The Edge is one of the most popular hotels in Tromsø, but it comes at a price. The location is perfect – directly opposite the Hurtigruten terminal – and the hotel even has a skybar on the top level. Most shops and popular restaurants are within a five minute walk of The Edge. I have stayed here a couple times and found the location to be perfect. The rooms are high end and the lobby and restaurant area is fantastic. One time I was there, the hotel was hosting a comedy show in the theatre that night! 

    Check Availability & Prices

    TA Vervet

    TA Vervet (Total Apartments Vervet) is a high-end apart-hotel located in the hip neighbourhood of Vervet. The apartments are beautifully designed and have views either of a garden or out to the sea. All apartments have a fully equipped kitchen, a private bathroom, a living room, and separate bedrooms. They all have a balcony. There is a rooftop terrace on top of the building and private parking is available in a garage in the basement, which is great if you are renting a car.

    You need to stay at least two nights here and prices are very high, but if you’re travelling as a group of four or more and want to stay together, this is a great option. The hotel is close to the Polar Museum and the bus across to the Arctic Cathedral. It’s about a 10-15 minute walk to the main street but is in a nice quiet area. 

    Check Availability & Prices

    Enter Elisabeth Suites & Spa

    This is one of Tromsø’s newest hotels and is located around a ten-minute walk south of the main centre of Tromsø. Much like TA, this is an apartment hotel. The apartments have a fully equipped kitchen, dining area, separate bedrooms, and private bathrooms. Some rooms come with a laundry. The hotel also serves breakfast (costs extra) and has a fitness room and terrace. There is even a spa located in the hotel and it has a heated pool. Private parking is available.  

    Check Availability & Prices

    Tip: TA Vervet & Enter Elisabeth are some of Tromsø’s newest hotels. TA Vervet is in a brand-new neighbourhood called Vervet, which is quickly becoming Tromsø’s hipster neighbourhood. 

    Mid Range

    Most hotels in Tromsø city centre seem to be priced the same – around 1700 NOK a night – so your pick really comes down to personal preference.

    Scandic Ishavshotel

    Scandic is a mid-range Scandinavian chain of hotels, and while their rooms often just look like IKEA catalogues, the hotels are clean, modern, practical, and often in excellent locations. The Scandic Ishavshotel had a major renovation a few years back, so the hotel feels fresh. The breakfast has won “Best Breakfast in Norway” several times.

    Across from the hotel is the major pickup place for many of the sightseeing tours in Tromsø, especially the northern lights tours.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Tip: Scandic is opening a new hotel in Tromsø’s hip neighbourhood Vervet in 2025. This will be the largest hotel in Northern Norway and is called Scandic Vervet. Keep an eye out for that one!

    Clarion Collection Hotel With

    Clarion Hotel With is also located by the harbour with a lovely view out to the Arctic Cathedral, Tromsø Bridge, and Fjellheisen cable car. Clarion chain hotels include a free light evening dinner, which can be a huge plus. The hotel even does free coffee/tea and Norwegian waffles in the afternoon. The hotel is often ranked at the top of TripAdvisor.

    I stayed here on my last visit to Tromsø a couple months ago and really liked the location – a block off the main street by the waterfront. However, the rooms had some very questionable art on the roof above the bed! See below – the group and I had a good laugh about this one. 

    Check Availability & Prices

    Clarion Hotel Aurora

    Located across the street from Hotel With, Clarion Aurora is slightly cheaper despite being a newer hotel with a just as equal location, view, and meal offerings. It is also one of the few hotels with onsite parking. This hotel even has a rooftop jacuzzi and sauna!

    Check Availability & Prices

    Radisson Blu Hotel

    The Radisson Blu is a huge hotel in the centre of everything. This is where almost all of the excursions begin, which can be great if you have booked many activities, but if you are just staying at the hotel it can be annoying pushing past masses of crowds every time you enter and leave the hotel.

    Inside the hotel is a booking desk for excursions, and the hotel runs its own popular pizza place. It also has one of Norway’s most famous pubs, Rorbua, which has live music from Wednesday to Saturday.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Thon Hotel Tromsø/Thon Hotel Polar

    I’ve included both the Thon hotels under the same listing just because they are a chain hotel and therefore more or less similar in style and price. Even the location is comically similar as they are across the street from each other! Some websites categorise this as a budget hotel, which it certainly isn’t. Thon Hotels have nice, clean rooms and good hotel breakfasts!

    Check Availability & Prices (Thon Hotel Polar)

    Check Availability & Prices (Thon Hotel Tromsø)

    Moxy Hotel

    The Moxy Hotel isn’t perfectly located – it’s out near the airport and it takes around 10 minutes to drive into Tromsø – but it is within walking distance of Tromsø’s largest shopping mall. However, the hotel has one of the best views out to Tromsø. The rooms all come with wonderful views too and are modern in their design. The hotel also has a parking lot, which is convenient if you are renting a car.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Budget Friendly

    Enter Backpack Hotel

    Enter Backpack Hotel is one of the most budget options I could find. The rooms with shared bathrooms fit into the budget category. Rooms with a private bathroom are only 200 NOK more expensive, so that may be worth it. The hotel is located a couple blocks west of the main shopping area.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Smarthotel Tromsø

    Smarthotel is one of the best value budget hotels in Tromsø. Double rooms with private bathrooms are some of the cheapest I found in the city. The hotel is only located two blocks from the main shopping street, so it is a great choice if you want to stay close to the city centre but save some money.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Comfort Xpress Tromsø

    Comfort Hotel is a popular chain in Norway and can be a good option too. The main shopping street is close by and all the rooms have private bathrooms. The rooms are very basic – think your minimalist IKEA bedroom – but they are functional and have everything that you need. There is a catch on the low price – there is no daily housekeeping service, rather they clean the rooms every fourth day. You can pay extra if you want your room cleaned daily. There is also a laundry room here that you can use.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Tromsø Coco Apartments

    This is one of the cheapest places to stay in Tromsø. The adults-only accommodation has a shared lounge and garden. All rooms have a shared bathroom, too. However, for a bunk bed in a dormitory you only pay 400 NOK a night. The accommodation is highly rated online, so it’s an excellent budget option.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Kvaløya Island

    Why Stay Here?

    Kvaløya is the name of the island located to the west of Tromsø city centre. It takes about 15 minutes to drive from the island to downtown Tromsø, but there are good public transport connections. I have stayed here once – at a cabin – and chose it because we wanted to be away from city lights and try to spot the northern lights. Kvaløya is also where many northern lights tours drive to, so it made it easier for us to go searching for the lights at night.

    Kvaløya also has some of the best mountains in Tromsø for hiking.

    Pictured above is the view from the cabin we booked on the island in October 2021. 

    High End

    Vengsøy Rorbuer

    These beautiful fishermen’s cabins are located about 30 minutes out of Tromsø but offer incredible views and perfect northern lights spotting. All cabins have free parking, a terrace with views to the sea, a full kitchen, private bathroom and living area. You need to stay at least two nights here.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Mid Range

    Yggdrasil Farmhotel Retreat, Spa and Yoga

    Yggdrasil Farmhotel Retreat, Spa and Yoga is a beautiful property located out in the countryside. Because you are moving further away from the city, you get more value for money. A hotel of this quality would be twice the price if in Tromsø centre. Suites for one night are only 1,800 NOK, which is a bargain for what you get. The cozy cabin rooms have private bathrooms, a kitchen, a lounge area and views over the fjord.

    As this is a farm, you can help feed the farm animals or just say hello to them. The most expensive rooms – the deluxe suites – are only 3,000 NOK for one night. Again, it would be twice the cost if staying in Tromsø centre. You will need a car to get here, though.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Mainland (Tromsdalen/E8 Highway)

    Why Stay Here?

    Tromsdalen is on the mainland and is where the E8 highway connects Tromsø to the rest of the country. There are plenty of public transport options over to the island and Tromsø city centre, so this can be a good option if you want to save some money. Tromsdalen is where the iconic Arctic Cathedral is located, as well as the cable car Fjellheisen.

    High End

    Æra Glass Cabins

    This is one of the most unique places to stay in Tromsø. Here you can stay in one of the popular glass cabins that are great for northern lights spotting. The cabins are located about 30 minutes out of Tromsø by car but are a great option if you’re here for the lights.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Mid Range

    Tromsø Arctic Villa

    The Tromsø Arctic Villa is a beautiful historic house close to the Arctic Cathedral. There’s a fantastic view of Tromsø from here, and the villa is surrounded by a lovely garden. You can choose between a three-bedroom apartment or a one-bedroom apartment, but both options come with a kitchen, private bathroom, and living room. Free parking is available on site. You must stay for a minimum of two nights.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Budget Friendly

    Tromsø Camping

    Tromsø Camping is good value. They have charming cabins that come with either shared or private bathrooms, and some even come with a kitchen. There is free parking on the property and you get access to the sauna and the bar. When booking, you have to stay for a minimum of two nights. The ‘Economy cottages’ are the budget-friendly options (though very modern inside!), while the other cabins are definitely high-end priced but absolutely beautiful. It’s a great option if you are coming to see the northern lights but may not be able to afford all the pricey excursions. Since this place is out of the city centre, there’s less light pollution.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Are there Airbnbs?

    There are Airbnbs, but please don’t consider booking one. At the moment there is a housing crisis in Tromsø and it is hard for young people to get into the housing market as apartments and homes are being bought up by greedy landlords to sell on Airbnb.

    If you want an apartment, consider one of the Aparthotels mentioned in this guide. You can get much nicer quality hotels and apartments and don’t need to stay at an Airbnb. 

    Final Thoughts on Where to Stay in Tromsø

    There are so many options on where to stay in Tromsø, and it can be overwhelming. It’s important to remember your budget and then decide if you want to rent a car or not. From there, you can narrow down how close to Tromsø city you want to stay. 

    Tromsø Travel Guide

    Be sure to check out my Tromsø travel guide! Here you can find all my recommendations of things to do and see, plus practical information for visiting the capital of the Arctic. 

  • Hammerfest, History, Tromsø, Vardø

    A Brief History of the Pomor Trade

    A Brief History of the Pomor Trade

    When you visit Northern Norway, chances are you’ll come across something called the Pomor Trade. When I first started visiting Finnmark, I would typically disregard any mention of the Pomors as a small part of history here that had little importance. However, after visiting Vardø back in September 2023, I came to realise just how vital the Pomors had been to the development of Northern Norway.

    I’ve put together this article as a short historic overview of the Pomors. Perhaps it’ll benefit your own trip to Northern Norway!

    In this article...

    VARDØ Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    What is a Pomor?

    This took me way too long to figure out. A “Pomor” is actually an ethnographic group that come from Russian settlers from around the region of Novgorod. They came to the White Sea region hundreds of years ago, following the various river systems through Russia. The word ‘Pomor’ derives from the word ‘Pomorsky’ (which means ‘maritime’) and is a word used to describe the coast of the White Sea. 

    Historic Trade Between Russia and Norway & Development of the Pomor Trade

    The people of Norway and Russia have been trading for hundreds of years. In fact, it can be traced back to the Viking Age. The Russians were known to also trade with the Sami people. 

    Trade between Russians and the Norwegians began to come into its modern form when the trade monopoly in Bergen was legalised. Basically, the King said that all foreign merchants had to go to Bergen, and all fishermen had to sell their catch in Bergen. 

    However, for the fishermen this was tough. In the colder months it was no problem as the fish could stay preserved for the long journey, but for a few weeks over the summer the temperatures were too warm and the fish risked going bad.

    The Pomors found a way to exploit this – they could buy the fish directly from the fishermen (back then it was common to go through a middleman, which also drove up prices). It benefitted the fishermen, too – they could sell direct, the fish wouldn’t go bad, and they were able to get supplies from the Pomors without having to all the way to Bergen. Was it a little illegal? Sure. But back then Northern Norway didn’t have much law enforcement, so they were able to get away with it. 

    The beginning of the Pomor Trade and important trade connections

    The beginning of the Pomor Trade is generally regarded to be in the early 18th century, simply because trade began to become more organised. 

    At first, the trade was a barter trade between people in the area, who traded grain products from Russia with fish products from Norway. However, money began to be used in the early 18th century, and in some places in Northern Norway the ruble was used as a currency. Trading with the Pomors also originally had no taxes or customs fees. 

    The trade always involved the Pomors coming to Norway; the Norwegians rarely travelled to Russia. The Pomors would bring wheats and grains, but starting in the 18th century they began bringing rye flour, which was important for the Norwegians and another reason the Pomor trade officially began around that time. The grain was grown inland around the Volga River and then transported along the White Sea. 

    The trade of grain was vital for the Norwegians as it doesn’t grow along the coast. Also, in Norway in the 18th century there were several crop failures and the price of rye in Bergen increased fivefold. For the fishermen, having the Pomors come directly to them and selling the grains and flour at good prices was essential for survival. 

    In addition to rye and wheat flour, the Pomors carried other food, such as oatmeal, salt, peas, meat and dairy products. Other useful merchandise was also carried, such as iron, timber, tar, birch bark, candles, cooking pots, hemp, rope and canvas. They also brought luxury products, such as candy, soap, porcelain and wood carvings.

    From the Norwegians they would take fish of various sorts, mainly Atlantic cod and dry saithe, but also Atlantic halibut and haddock.

    Where did they trade?

    The main centre of the Pomor Trade in Norway was Vardø, which is located close to the Russian border. The harbour in Vardø could at times have over 100 Russian vessels moored simultaneously, and the town had a Russian consulate. 

    Other towns that were important for the Pomors include Hamningberg (a now abandoned fishing village) and Hammerfest, though the Pomors did trade in other places like Vadsø and Kjøllefjord. Tromsø gained trading privileges a few years later and was given the monopoly for trading with the Pomors in the region of Troms. Eventually the Pomors were trading as far south as the Lofoten Islands. 

    In Russia, the city of Arkangelsk was the centre of Pomor Trade, and it was founded in 1584 as a trade centre for the White Sea. 

    Arkangelsk 1896

    Attempts at Regulation

    As the Pomor Trade grew somewhat illegally, when Norwegian sovereignty was enforced over Northern Norway, there began to be attempts to control the Pomor Trade. 

    Already back in 1316 the King of the time, King Håkon V, prevented foreigners from trading in Northern Norway. All foreign ships had to stop in Bergen. 

    Until the Reformation in 1537, the trade between the North and the Hanseatic League in Bergen was controlled by the archbishop in Trondheim. After the Reformation, the privileges of trade were handed from the church to the citizens of Bergen and Trondheim, giving them a monopoly. 

    There are reports of Russians trading illegally from the 17th century onwards. If the Russians and Norwegians were caught trading outside of Bergen, the Norwegians would be denied winter supplies from Norwegian traders. This lasted until 1715. 

    In the late 18th century, trade was placed under control of the King and trading houses of Copenhagen. In 1783 the government in Copenhagen decided that the Pomor Trade should be somewhat legalised, and that North Norwegians should get their grain from the Russians rather than Denmark. The Danish King Christian VII gave Vardø, Hammerfest and Tromsø status of trading towns in order to regulate the Pomor trade better. 

    However, there was one thing in the way. The fact that the Pomors could trade freely with the fishermen was bad for the government, who were missing out on their precious taxes. So, it was made illegal. Eventually it was made legal again, but the Pomors could only trade directly with fishermen in the short weeks where the warm climate makes it difficult to preserve fish. 

    Napoleonic Wars

    The Pomor Trade was targeted by the British during the Napoleonic Wars. During the Gunboat War, the United Kingdom put a trade embargo on Denmark-Norway. This made the Pomor Trade almost essential for survival for the North Norwegians, and they got a special decree legalising direct trade between the Pomors and fishermen in 1809. 

    During the Anglo-Russian War, the British government established a blockade along the Norwegian coast. One of their goals was to stop the Pomor Trade and cut off supply lines of goods from Arkangelsk. The Norwegians responded by fortifying the important harbours, such as Hammerfest. In 1810, the Norwegians established a special naval squadron called “The Finnmark Squadron” to protect the Pomor Trade.

    However, despite all this the British did manage to bomb and heavily damage Hammerfest. 

    The Golden Age and Rapid End

    Throughout the 19th century the conditions in Norway began to improve and the dependence on grain from Russia began to decline. Eventually the trade privileges and rules were lifted in 1870, and the Pomors were more or less free to come as they please. These lighter regulations led to the Pomors modernising their vessels and by 1870, 400 Russian Pomor vessels visited Tromsø. Normally 300 vessels would visit all of Norway in one year. By 1900, Russia was Norway’s fourth most important trade partner, and rye flour remained the most important commodity. After 1910, less flour was traded, and the Russians paid for the fish with money instead. 

    Things sounded like they were going well, but everything ended abruptly in 1917, when the Russian Revolution ended all trade. This had understandable negative effects on the economy of Northern Norway, especially for the coastal communities as the fishermen no longer had the possibility to see their summer catch. Some Russian vessels still did come. The last vessel came in 1929, when Joseph Stalin’s collectivization came into full effect, ending private property rights and persecuting merchants. 

    Lasting impact of the Pomors

    It’s important to not understate the lasting effect the Pomor Trade had on the coastal communities in Northern Norway. Many of the villages along the Finnmark coast developed in the 19th century thanks to the Pomor Trade, and were able to afford luxuries they otherwise wouldn’t get. It also led to a good relationship between the two countries, and in 1875 there was even a regular steamship service between Arkangelsk and Vardø. This allowed for Russian tourism and seasonal workers in Finnmark. 

    Often the same Pomor vessels would visit the same place year after year, and the Norwegians got to know the crew. The Russians and the trade with them had high esteem in Northern Norway and they were known for being friendly. The people of Northern Norway also got an insight into a difficult culture and it in turn affected Norwegian culture. 

    Lastly, and also perhaps most interesting, a pidgin language developed between the Pomors and the North Norwegians called Russenorsk. Russenorsk has a restricted grammar mostly related to Arctic fishing and trading. You can find some examples of Russenorsk on Wikipedia: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Russenorsk

    Where to go from here

    If you want to learn more about the Pomor Trade, visit the city of Vardø, which is home to the Pomor Museum. The city also has wooden warehouses still standing from the Pomor time. You can read about Vardø on our travel guide page. 

    VARDØ Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Please leave any questions or comments below!

  • European Highways, Lyngen Alps, Road-trips, Tromsø

    Drive it Yourself: From the Lyngen Alps to Tromsø on the E6

    Drive it Yourself: From the Lyngen Alps to Tromsø on the E6

    The Lyngen Alps are described as the ‘Mecca’ for skiiers and hikers all over the world, with many dreaming of coming here just to make the most of the incredible downhill slopes. For those of us who aren’t here to ski, Lyngen is a gorgeous region perfect for a short vacation.

    We spent the night in the Lyngen region towards the end of our North Norwegian road-trip. For us, we chose it simply because it was roughly halfway between where we were (Hammerfest) and where we had to be (Tromsø). We found an adorable AirBNB overlooking the Alps and had a nice rest before finishing the drive.

    Most of this drive takes place on the E6, which also has the nickname ‘the Northern Lights Highway’ up here because of all the roadside stops perfect for viewing the lights. The E6 is the main highway running through Norway and while it is not the most scenic, it is the only way to get between places when you are this far north.

    Here’s an overview of what you can see along the way. 

    In this article...

    Downloadable Version of This Guide

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    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Information about facilities along the way

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the region & towns
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Facilities including supermarkets, toilets, petrol, hotels, cafes, restaurants with addresses.

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

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    The drive: From the Lyngen Alps to Tromsø on the E6

    The Lyngen Alps

    The Lyngen Alps are a scenic mountain range that stretch 90km (56 mi) along the Lyngen Peninsula, with the Lyngen fjord to the east and the Ullsfjorden to the west.

    The mountains are popular among extreme skiers, with the highest summit being 1,833m (6,014ft) tall. The mountains are also popular with climbers.

    Olderdalen

    Olderdalen is the main centre for the Kåfjord Municipality we are in. The population is around 301 and the town looks out to the Lyngen Alps. If you use ferries, it is only a 70km drive. However, if you follow the E6 it is around 180km. Agriculture and fishing are the main industries.

    Birtavarre

    Birtavarre is a small village with a population of around 215. The village was a former mining town with smelters. It was during the mining period that it took the name Birtavarre; before then, it was known as ‘Kåfjordbotn’ after the fjord. The name Birtavarre comes from the nearby mountain Pirttivaara, which is a Kven language name.

    Manndalen

    Manndalen is a small village with a population of just under 1000. Historically, Manndalen was where the ‘three tribes’ (Kven, Sami, Norwegian) all settled. People began to arrive from Finland in the 1700s and many locals today consider themselves descendants of these people. The area was also used as the summer grazing area for the reindeer herding Sami. Today Manndalen is a centre for the revitalisation of Sea Sami culture and language and now there is a Sami department in the kindergarten and a Sami language centre. The Riddu Riđđu festival is an annual Sami music and culture festival that takes place here.

    The town was destroyed during World War II, and the town was rebuilt with temporary houses. At Sandeng Cemetery near Løkvell is the urn of Jan Baalsrud, a famous World War II resistance hero. He became fond of Manndalen after all the help he received in his escape from the Germans on the way to Sweden. Many locals were active in hiding him, giving him good, and getting him across the border into Sweden.  

    Storfjord

    Storfjord is a municipality in the Troms County of Northern Norway. The name comes from the Storfjorden that runs through the area, while the coat-of-arms shows three poppies that are rotated around a meeting point which represents the meeting point of the three countries Norway, Sweden, and Finland.

    The first peoples to live here were the Sami people. In the 19th century settlers from Finland and Southern Norway began to establish themselves. Sami culture has survived in parts of the municipality. In the 19th century the Laestadianism religious movement obtained a strong position, and Skibotn is still a stronghold for this movement.

    The landscape of Storfjord is characterised by alpine mountains, and the highest mountain is Vassdalsfjellet (1587m), while the most ‘famous’ mountain is Otertind.

    Skibotn

    Skibotn is a small village with a population of 538 located at the end of the Lyngen fjord and close to Kilpisjarvi in Finland. The residents of the village are either descendants of the Sami and Kven people or the Norwegian immigrants who came in the 19th century.

    Historically, Skibotn was a meeting point and market for the different ethnic groups in the area. The market still takes place today and is named ‘Skibotn markedsplass’ if you want to visit.

    Skibotn is the place in Norway that has registered the clearest days and it is one of the driest places in Norway. Because of the lack of clouds, there is an astrophysical observatory located in Skibotn.

    Kilpisjarvi

    In Skibotn you’ll pass the E8, which takes you into Finland and the town of Kilpisjarvi. Kilpisjarvi is one of the best places to see the northern lights because of its clear skies. We cover Kilpisjarvi and that drive in a separate article. 

    Kilpisjarvi Travel Guide

    Balsfjord Municipality

    Balsfjord is a municipality in the Troms County of Northern Norway. The coat-of-arms depicts a yellow plough on a red background, symbolising the importance of agriculture in the municipality. The plough also symbolises that the municipality is at the northernmost border on which grain can be grown in Norway. No other area in Troms has so much cultivated land. Agriculture is mostly based on milk and meat production and Balsfjord has the highest number of cattle, sheep, and goats among the municipalities in Troms. One of the dairies is the country’s largest goat cheese producer.

    The Sami people were the first people to inhabit the area, but around 1800 new settlers came from Finland and Southern Norway. Today, very few traces of Sami culture survive. From the 18th until the 20th century, trappers from Balsfjord were active in the Arctic, hunting in the areas around Greenland and Svalbard.

    The municipality was home to a religious group of ‘mindekirken’ or ‘freechurch dissenters’ who split from the state church in Tromsø. They were led by a seminary student, Johannes Andreas Johannessen and they established their own church, the Free Apostolic Christian Church, in Balsfjord. Bomstad and his followers were said to have protested against the Tromsø state church minister and Troms Bishop’s religious rulings, eventually leading to a riot in Tromsø. The state church members yelled at Bomstad and his dissenters to “go back to Kautokieno!”. In 1862, Bomstad led a group of colonists to America, arriving into Chicago. After that they went to the area of St. Peter, Minnesota, where they remained. Bomstad left St. Peter and became the founding father of Lake Lillian in Minnesota. After staking his original claim, Bomstad and the rest of the colonists arrived at Lake Lillian and built dugout shelters to live. Eventually they all had log cabins to live in.

    Close to Balsfjord Church are 6000-year-old rock carvings at Tennes.

    Tromsø Municipality

    Tromsø Municipality is a major centre in Northern Norway. The municipality is milder than most settlements on the same latitude dur to the effect of the westerlies reaching this far north as well as the North Atlantic Drift, a branch of the Guld Stream. The population of the entire municipality is around 71,000. A detailed overview of the city of Tromsø can be found on our travel guide. 

    Tromsø

    The final stop is in Tromsø, the largest city in Northern Norway. You can find a detailed guide to Tromsø on our travel guide page. 

    Tromsø Travel Guide

    Where to Go From Here

    From Tromsø you can continue your drive south to Narvik or you can head into Finland towards Kilpisjarvi. 

    Tromsø to Narvik on the E6
    Kilpisjarvi to Kautokeino

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • History, Tromsø

    The History of Tromsø

    The History of Tromsø

    Tromsø is a cool city, in every sense of the word. It is the largest city in Northern Norway and is also one of the first settlements in the far north by Norwegians. Sami and Norwegian populations have lived alongside one another here for a thousand years, and in the last few centuries, the town has been built up as an important Arctic port. Here’s the history of Tromsø – everything you need to know before you go!

    In this article...

    Norway's Coastal Ferry

    Tromsø is a port of call of Norway’s coastal ferry. Find my guide for the coastal ferry by clicking the link below. 

    Norway's Coastal Ferry
    Tromsø Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Tromsø´s Early History

    It’s believed that the area around Tromsø has been inhabited since the end of the Ice Age. The area around Tromsø became ice-free around 10,500 years ago. The area was first inhabited by the Sami people, and traces of Sami settlement can be found in the fjord areas around the city. At some point, Norwegians also settled in the area. Archaeological excavations have taken place at nearby Tønsvika, and they have turned up artefacts and remains of buildings that are believed to be up to 10,000 years old.

    The First Settlement in Tromsø

    During the Middle Ages, both Sami and Norwegian people lived here. Perhaps the earliest resident we know about is Ottar, the Viking traveller we met in Finnsnes (if travelling northbound on Hurtigruten). As mentioned in Finnsnes, Ottar lived somewhere in Troms, and one of the possibilities is near present-day Tromsø. He described himself as living “furthest to the north of all Norwegians” with areas north of this being populated by the Sami. Tromsø’s location correlates with this; Icelandic sources from the 12th-century state that the fjord ‘Malangen’ near Tromsø was a border between the Norse and Sami settlements, though there were some living on either side of the border. Both Norse and Sami Iron Age remains have been found on Kvaløya, the neighbouring island to Tromsø.

    The name Tromsø is a bit of a mystery; one theory suggests that ‘Troms’ derives from the old name of the island as several islands and rivers have the same name, which may derive from the word ‘straumr’ which means a strong stream. Another theory is that Tromsø was originally called ‘Store Tromsøya’ due to a characteristic mountain known as ‘Tromma’ (the Drum). The mountains name in Sami, Rumbbučohkka, is identical in meaning, and it is said to have been a sacred mountain for the Sami in pre-Christian times. The Sami name for the island is Romsa, which is assumed to be a loan word from Norse. The ‘ø’ at the end is an Old Norse (and present-day Danish) word for ‘island’ (today in Norway we say ‘Øy’ for island).

    Tromsø´s First Church

    The first church was built on Tromsøya island (the island where Tromsø is today) in 1252 and was believed to be commissioned by King Håkon Håkonsson, and the first time Tromsø is mentioned in historical documents is in The Saga of Håkon Håkonsson. It was called “The Church of Saint Mary in Troms near the heathens”, which just rolls off the tongue and refers to the Sami people, who followed their religion that wasn’t exactly in line with the new Norwegian Catholic religion. At the time, it was the northernmost church in the world. King Håkon also commissioned the building of a turf rampart called Skansen to protect the island against attacks from the Karelians (from Karelia, an area between the White Sea and the Gulf of Finland) and Russia. Today no traces of the original church remain (it was a simple wooden building), though it may have been built where the present-day Tromsø Cathedral is. Skansen still exists in the form of a grass mound with a diameter of 50 metres, and it’s visible near the Polar Museum.

    Historic Meeting Place

    While Tromsø didn’t develop into a proper town for another 500 years, it did become a settlement and meeting place. Few people did live here, and because of the church, more people from further away travelled to worship at Tromsø. Back then it was compulsory, and if you didn’t show up to church, you’d receive a fine or imprisonment. So, while Tromsø didn’t have a large population, it became a local meeting place for isolated communities in the area.

    Tromsø was also an important location for Norway when considering the proximity to Russia. Originally, the border extended towards the Lyngen Alps, and the state of Novgorod in Russia was able to tax the Sami up until this point. Norway was also able to tax the Sami as far east as the Kola Peninsula. So, the Sami people had to pay taxes to both states if they lived in that area. Sometimes even the Swedes and Finns would try to claim tax from the Sami, depending on where they lived! During the next 500 years, Norway’s border with Russia and Norwegian settlement would extend east towards Varanger, near Kirkenes, making Tromsø lose its status as a ‘frontier town’.

    Tromsø Begins to Grow

    While Tromsø wasn’t really a town until the 18th century, there is evidence of people living here (besides the first church). Back then, if someone living as far north as Tromsø wanted to trade, they had to travel to Vågan in Lofoten or to Bergen in the south-west. The first trader was mentioned as coming from Tromsø in 1536 when they had travelled south to conduct trade. It’s believed it was the priests of the church that were the ones making the trip to Vågån to trade; it was common back then for the priests to also be merchants. We also know people were living here in the early 17th century, as Tromsø (like many other places in Northern Norway) conducted witchcraft trials, and three people were burned at the stake. Then, in the early 18th century, a new church was built to replace the old one.

    Settling the North

    During the 17th century, Denmark-Norway was solidifying its claim to the northern coast of Scandinavia, and Skansen was reinforced at Tromsø. Then, despite being home to only around 80 people, in 1794 Tromsø was issued a city charter by King Christian VII. This coincided with the abolition of Bergen’s centuries-old monopoly on the trade of cod. Bergen lost its trading privileges in 1789, and the people in Northern Norway were now free to trade with whoever they wanted. Hammerfest and Vardø were the first towns to get city status, but Norway wanted a third city in the North, and a debate had arisen as to where it would be. Candidates were Gibostad near Finnsnes and Gausvik near Harstad, but in the end, Tromsø was the city that won.

    The development and growth of Tromsø wasn’t immediate; in 1807 the population was only 100. And even though a new church had been completed in 1803, the present-day Elverhøy Church (it was relocated in 1861) and in 1804 the Diocese of Hålogaland was created and headquartered in Tromsø. The town was met with hard times during the Napoleonic Wars; in 1812 the town was attacked by English forces. In the Battle of Pølsehamna, the small Danish-Norwegian garrison set itself so strongly to counter that the English didn’t dare to enter the city; the day they left, the 2nd of August 1812, is still celebrated as an important anniversary in the Danish Naval Defence.

    The Pomor Trade

    During the 19th century, the Pomor Trade with Russia became increasingly popular. Trade with Russia had begun in 1725, while Bergen still had the trading monopoly, and Tromsø (before it got city rights) was the starting point for the trading routes eastwards and became one of the most important Pomor Trade Centres in the north. Pomor Trade continued until the Russian Revolution in 1917.

    Arctic Hunting

    Arctic hunting started around 1820 with expeditions to Svalbard, Greenland, and even as far west as Canada. By 1850, Tromsø had developed into a major centre of Arctic hunting, overtaking the former centre Hammerfest. Tromsø had direct trading links with Arkhangelsk, Bordeaux, and Central Europe. The trade of Arctic goods, whether it be hides, skins, bones or food, accelerated the development of the town and the entire harbour area on the east side of the island was developed as a continuous urban area of piers and residential houses with large gardens. Some of these buildings remain, especially the mansions on Sjøgata and Skippergata.

    Tromsø also became an important departure point from which many Arctic expeditions originated. Explorers like Roald Amundsen, Umberto Nobile and Fritjof Nansen made use of the know-how in Tromsø on the conditions in the Arctic and often recruited their crews in the city.

    Tromsø Develops into a City

    Just 10 years after Arctic hunting had started, Tromsø’s population had risen from a little over 100 to 1,200. Land on the island was sold off so the locals could develop country houses and farmsteads; present-day Hope, Nøysomheden, Charlottenlund and Sommerlyst are the names of such old country estates. Sjøgata (Sea Street) was developed as the main street, while Storgata (Big Street) was a back alley with more modern buildings.

    The increase in trade with other countries, the influx of foreigners and visiting summer tourists introduced new trends among local people. Furniture from Europe, fashions, entertainment and socialising helped develop the town into a cultural hub. Travelling associations brought literature, music, the circus and theatre to the town. Special clubs formed for French, German and Russian language speakers.

    A travel guide from 1841 says:

    ‘No other place in the far north has impressed as us much as Tromsø. The attraction is not its large population but rather to experience its bustling commerce, its lively company, and its rapid rise; to put it another way – the young and invigorating life that is emerging in this booming town.’

    Paris of the North

    Tromsø quickly developed the nickname ‘The Paris of the North’. How this nickname came to be is uncertain, but it is generally assumed that people in Tromsø appeared to be far more sophisticated than what visitors from the south were expecting. The women were often dressed in the finest clothing, the locals had very good formation and language skills, and there was a strong culture in Tromsø. All of this was thanks to the large amount of money that was coming in from the fish and Arctic trade. Also, the people in Tromsø were trading directly with Europe and not going through a trade house such as the one in Oslo. Several places in Tromsø have French names because of these strong trading links.

    The commercial and cultural development of Tromsø continued, and in 1838 the postal ship ‘Prinds Gustav’ began sailing to Tromsø during the summer route from Trondheim. In 1848, the teacher training college moved from Trondenes (near Harstad) to Tromsø with part of its mission being to educate Sami scholars – there was a quote ensuring the Sami gained access. The same year, the Tromsø Shipyard was established. In 1847, a local ferry began sailing from Tromsø to the outlying villages. Tromsø Cathedral was built in 1861 and Tromsø Museum opened in 1872; the same year the first railway planning committee met to discuss building a rail network. Tromsø still does not have a rail network. Mack Brewery was founded in 1877.

    By 1890, the population had increased to 6,000. In 1893, the first Hurtigruten ship called at Tromsø. At the start of the 1900s, better quays and breakwaters were built, providing safer facilities for fishing boats and steamships. By this time, almost all of Tromsø island had been cleared for housing or building, so neighbouring municipalities were swallowed up to become Tromsø. Today, Tromsø is one of the largest municipalities in Norway by area.

    World War II

    When Germany invaded Norway in 1940, Tromsø briefly served as the seat of the Norwegian Government while King Haakon VII and the government hide out here. They left Tromsø with the cruiser Devonshire on 7 June 1940 and would not return to Norway after the war.

    The Battleship Tirpitz

    Tirpitz var en av andre verdenskrigs store drama - Visit Nord-Norge
    Tirpitz as it can be seen today

    Tromsø was an important base for the Germans throughout the war, and the city escaped the war unscathed. The most dramatic event to happen in Tromsø throughout the war involves the Tirpitz. The German Battleship Tirpitz was sunk by RAF Avro Lancaster during Operation Catechism off Tromsøya Island on 12 November 1944, killing close to 1,000 German soldiers. The Tirpitz was the largest German battleship ever built. It still lies off the coast and is visible during low tide.

    “South Point”, which was established in 1941 for political prisoners. The first prisoners were male Jews from Tromsø. There were around 120 men in the camp. The second camp was “Krøkebaersletta”, which was a camp for political prisoners who had participated in military resistance. The prisoners here were subject to terrible treatment. On 20 October 1943, eight prisoners were sentenced to death and executed. The number of prisoners at any one time was around 250, though 2,500 prisoners passed through here on their way to larger camps. The third camp was “Isrenna”, established in 1942 for Russian prisoners of war. After the war, both Krøkebaersletta and Isrenna were used as prison camps for traitors and members of the Gestapo.

    During the forced evacuation of Northern Norway, which was being devastated due to the Germans ‘scorched earth’ policy, Tromsø received 7381 evacuees from the area. Additionally, 6000 Germans came to Tromsø after leaving Finland; this brought the total number of German soldiers in Tromsø at the end of the ear to 14,000. At the end of the war, more refugees from Northern Norway went to Tromsø and stayed there; resulting in a huge boom in the population.

    Post-war Growth

    Expansion after World War II was rapid. More municipalities merged with Tromsø, tripling the population. Overall, population growth has been strong compared to many places in the north, with the population growing by more than 1,000 every year even today.

    The rapid growth led to many areas being overlooked, and Tromsø became a run-down city. Many materials and money were being sent elsewhere in Northern Norway to try and rebuild destroyed towns. This lack in care led to two major fires in Tromsø in 1948 and 1969, so while Tromsø was one of the towns saved from destruction during the war, many of the pre-war buildings were destroyed by fire.

    Throughout the 1960s Tromsø got many new structures. In 1960, the Tromsdalen bridge was built, connecting the island to the mainland; in 1961, the cable car opened. The Tromsø Airport and famous Arctic Cathedral were completed in 1964, and then in 1972, the University of Tromsø was opened. The local teachers college and the museum were incorporated into the University. Today, the University is the third largest in the country.

    In the 1990s, an underwater bridge was built connecting the island to the mainland. The Norwegian Polar Institute was moved to Tromsø from Oslo in 1998.

    Norway's Coastal Ferry

    Tromsø is a port of call of Norway’s coastal ferry. Find my guide for the coastal ferry by clicking the link below. 

    Norway's Coastal Ferry
    Tromsø Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide
  • Hurtigruten, Tromsø, Walking Guides

    Tromsø Self-Guided Walking Tour: Highlights & Hidden Gems

    Tromsø Self-Guided Walking Tour: Highlights & Hidden Gems

    Tromsø is a city best explored on foot, so I’ve put together a self-guided walking tour based on where I like to go when I’m in the city. I’ve also put this together with the Hurtigruten in mind and the time that has to be taken into account when you’re only in the city for four hours. I took these photos in February 2020 in the middle of winter; hopefully I’ll get some photos this summer to show how different the city looks when there’s no snow!

    Tromsø is one of the most popular places to visit in Norway, and I can understand why. Called the “Arctic Capital of Norway”, Tromsø is located far, far north above the Arctic Circle, making it perfect in summer for the midnight sun or in winter for the northern lights. It’s got museums, restaurants, shopping, various outdoor activities, and countless lovely hotels. It’s also one of the most popular ports on the Hurtigruten, especially when travelling northbound (4 hours in the city!).

    In this article...

    Norway's Coastal Ferry

    Tromsø is a port of call of Norway’s coastal ferry. Find my guide for the coastal ferry by clicking the link below. 

    Norway's Coastal Ferry
    TROMSØ Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

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    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Information about facilities along the way

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the region & towns
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Facilities including supermarkets, toilets, petrol, hotels, cafes, restaurants with addresses.

    Practical Info

    • If you are doing this walk during winter, be wary of ice. Tromsø can get very icy, and they don’t always cover the ice with gravel. Some paths are heated, meaning no ice, but you will encounter ice on this trip.
    • This trip can be broken up with visits to the cable car, Polar Museum, and Perspective Museum.
    • If you’re doing this trip while on Hurtigruten, always keep an eye on the time. I did this walk in around 45 minutes (lots of photo-taking stops) with no entrances.
    • Walk length: 1.8km (1.1 miles) / Mostly flat (hilly if detouring to the Catholic Church).

    Tromsø Self-Guided Walking Tour

    Arctic Cathedral View

    Completed in 1965, the Arctic Cathedral stands out over the cityscape. The white, glacier-like appearance is supposed to represent the stockfish drying racks, the Northern Lights, and the eleven Apostles that were left after the betrayal. The entire east wall is formed by a huge stained-glass window, one of the largest in Europe, and the organ is built to represent a ship when viewed from beneath.

    The Arctic Cathedral is generally open, but to get there you’d need to take bus 26, explained later in this walk. If you’re in Tromsø for a couple of days, consider attending one of their concerts: https://www.ishavskatedralen.no/en/the-arctic-cathedral/concerts/

    Roald Amundsen Statue

    Since Tromsø was an important harbour area for Arctic exploration, it makes sense to have a statue of Roald Amundsen in one of the town squares. Amundsen (1872-1928) was a Norwegian explorer who led the first expedition to traverse the Northwest Passage by sea and also the first expedition to the South Pole. He also led the first expedition proven to have reached the North Pole in a dirigible in 1926.

    Behind the Amundsen statue is the North Norwegian Museum for Art, a free museum with rotating exhibitions all about life in the north.

    Jewish Memorial

    Tucked away in the corner of the park is a monument for the Jewish members of the community who were deported during World War II. The monument reads: “in memory of the Jews from Tromsø killed in German concentration camps. Erected with deep love by their countrymen. We must never regret”. All 17 Jews were deported from Tromsø. 16 died in 1943, and 1 died in 1945.

    Smørtorget

    This is an old square from the times when Tromsø was an active market down. Called The Butter Market when translated to English, it was a place where farmers came with butter and dairy products to sell. There were plenty of different businesses, though – a bakery, butcher, pharmacy, hotel, barbershop, textiles and souvenir shops. This was also where Tromsø’s first roundabout was – the streets in town were so narrow and horses with carriages needed room to turn. Here the square was wide enough, so they would take a lap around the square before returning home. Nearby were small cottages that were used as a shelter for people coming from afar for church on Sundays, but eventually they became permanent homes of artists and tenants.

    While Smørtorget survived during World War II, the fire destroyed some of the houses, and development in the 1970s destroyed some more of them. There is a cafe in the square called Smørtorget that has some lovely photos and information boards inside. It also doubles as a secondhand shop, so it’s worth going inside for a look!

    Sjøgata 6 (Green Timber House)

    Sjøgata 6 is a green timber house that was built in the mid-19th century and was owned by the Austad family, a wealthy merchant family who owned many properties in Tromsø. For a while, the property was divided into four different apartments where different merchants and traders lived. It became a florist in the mid-1970s and still is today.

    Dreyergården

    This is another example of a 19th-century merchants house – typically merchants houses end in ‘gård’ which means farm or tenement. Dreyer Gården was built in 1837 for Jørgen Dreyer, who had been brought to Tromsø as a servant. He received a merchant licence and, in collaboration with his old employer, formed the company “Killengreen & Dreyer”. Within a few years, they had one of the city’s largest commercial houses, co-owned several shops and exported goods. The son, Christian Frederik Dreyer joined the company and renamed it “JC Dreyer & Son”. After his father’s death, Christian moved into the building. He had spent several years in Russia and had some good contacts within the Pomor Trade. He became known as “Russe-Dreyer” and was one of the largest merchants of Pomor products from the White Sea.

    Tromsø Self-Guided Walking Tour

    Aunegården

    Aunegården is another merchant’s house, built in 1860 for the merchant Hilmar Holmeboe. From 1878, it was the home of the local butcher. The butcher operated for 120 years until the business closed down in 1995. Today, it is a restaurant on the lower floor and a hub for Tromsø’s local guides on the upper floor. It was one of the few buildings to survive the 1969 fire.

    *2022 update – the building is no longer used by the guides. 

    Bus 26 Stop: Arctic Cathedral & Cable Car

    Once you reach the Peppes Pizza, you have reached the bus stop for the bus that will take you over to the Arctic Cathedral and Tromsø’s Cable Car. There is a ticket machine at the stop, so buy a ticket and then take BUS 26 to:

    • Arctic Cathedral: Ishavskatedralen
    • Tromsø Cable Car: Fjellheisen

    It takes 5 or so minutes to reach the Cathedral, and then the Cable Car is another 10 minutes away. It is possible to do the cable car within the four hours Hurtigruten is in Tromsø.

    Kystens hus

    You’ll find a fish market inside this building. This is a place where you can buy the stockfish or perhaps try some whale meat. On the walls they have a nice historical photograph and some information about the old fishing business.

    Old Fishing Warehouses

    Here we are on Tromsø’s old harbour! These warehouses were built in the early 20th century after a fire from 1902 destroyed the previous buildings. Originally they would’ve gone out into the water; this walkway was added recently. On the buildings, you can see where the hooks to lift up the barrels of fish used to be, and the wide windows were once openings to put the barrels into the building.

    Polar Museum

    Located in the old customs house from 1830, the Polar Museum is a fascinating museum about Arctic hunting, life, and exploration. The lower floor focuses on Arctic hunting, while the upper floor focuses on the Arctic explorers. It’s a great museum worthy of a visit; allow for 40-60 minutes depending on how much reading you want to do. Nice little souvenir shop, too!

    Old Customs Building

    Across from the Polar Museum, you’ll see a green house with a bust of Roald Amundsen out the front. This is an old customs building and served as the customs house for around 100 years. It was in use until the 1970s and since 1992 has been the administration building for the Polar Museum.

    Skansen

    Skansen is a well-known 13th-century fortification that was built by King Håkon Håkonsson (who also built Håkons Hall in Bergen). The ramparts were built using stones and peat and were constructed as a defence against attacks from the Karelians (from Karelia, an area between the White Sea and the Gulf of Finland) and Russia. Today Skansen is a circular mound with a marked raised outer periphery and a diameter of 50 metres. It’s especially hard to see in winter.

    Knudsen gården

    Knudsen Gården was built in 1822 for the customs officer, and from 1843-1858 the building served as the post office. Well-known 19th-century novelist Bernt Lie lived here during the 1880s. The building has the last city private garden; the others have disappeared throughout the years due to development.

    Aargard Gården

    This was the home of the wealthy and well-known Aargard family, who sold “fish, hides, skin, salt, grain and colonial goods”.

    Ingvald Jaklin statue

    Ingvald Jaklin was a Norwegian politician for the Labor Party who also served as mayor of Tromsø after World War II.

    Seafarers Home

    This beautiful building was built in 1860 as a merchants house but later went on to serve as a hospital. Since 1926, it was a retirement home for seafarers.

    The mine out front is a collection box to gather money for seamen who were made homeless after the submarine wars of 1916. The caption reads:

    “ditt troll – du var sjømannens skrækk sank ham nu klingende mynt i din sækk”. It’s written in Old Norwegian, but it roughly means “You troll (referring to the mine), you were the seafarers fear, sinking him to get coins in your pouch”

    Perspective Museum

    The building was built in 1838 as a large commercial house for the export of cod and fish products and trade of grain, colonial goods, manufacturing and factory products. Today it houses the Perspective Museum, a free exhibition full of photographs of old Tromsø. When I visited, it had exhibitions on LGBT rights and religious history.

    Verdens Theatret

    This is Norway’s oldest cinema that’s still in use, and it dates back to 1915. Inside you can see signs for the Tromsø International Film Festival, which is held in January and includes an outdoor cinema!

    Skancke Gården

    This yellow timber house (now a shop called Nille) is an old merchants house from the early 19th-century.

    Bispegård

    The building on the street corner is Bispegård, or the bishop’s residence. It has been the Catholic bishops residence since 1860. When Pope John Paul II visited Tromsø in 1989, he spent the night here on the 3rd of June.

    Option: If you want to see the world’s northernmost Catholic church, head up the street behind Bispegård. When I did it in February, I found it very icy to the point that I didn’t make it as far as I wanted to (hence the subpar photos). But if you’re doing this in summer, it’ll be fine!

    Catholic Church

    The Catholic Church was built in 1861 and is the world’s northernmost Catholic Episcopal seat with the world’s most northerly Catholic bishop. The church is also the geographical centre of Tromsø!

    You can see that the church is connected to Bispegården, which reveals itself as a truly large building.

    Løkkekiosken

    The little hot dog stand is Løkkekiosken, a treasure of Tromsø. Meaning ‘Onion Kiosk’ in English (even though it’s just named after the owner and not for the shape), this was built in 1911 for 18-year-old Margrit Løkke, who wanted to sell goods from the stall. It was listed as an important cultural monument in 2009.

    World's Northernmost Burger King

    I mean what else can you say about it? Why not go in and get a burger from the world’s northernmost Burger King!

    * It’s actually the second-northernmost Burger King because there’s another one at a shopping mall a few kilometres north. But still, this is close enough

    Tromsø Cathedral

    Tromsø Cathedral is Norway’s only wooden cathedral. It was built in 1861 and seats 600 people. It’s believed that it is built on the site of the previous churches, possibly all the way back to 1252 when the first church was built here. The stained glass windows on the cathedral were designed by Gustav Vigeland and were installed in 1960.

    Norway's Coastal Ferry

    Tromsø is a port of call of Norway’s coastal ferry. Find my guide for the coastal ferry by clicking the link below. 

    Norway's Coastal Ferry
    TROMSØ Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide