Harstad

  • Harstad, Lofoten Islands, Road-trips, Scenic Drives, Sortland, Svolvaer, Vesterålen

    Drive it Yourself: Harstad to Svolvær (via the Fv83)

    Drive it Yourself: Harstad to Svolvær (via the Fv83)

    The drive between Harstad and Svolvær is a scenic drive through the traditional regions of Vesterålen and Lofoten.

    There are actually two ways to get between the two towns. The first way is to follow the E10, the major highway that runs through Lofoten. We covered that drive in 2021 (click here to read it). This way, via the Fv83, is the second way. It does take a little longer, but it is worth it. The Fv83 is regarded as a scenic road for the Vesterålen region, which is just as beautiful as Lofoten but with less tourists. It does include one ferry, but the ferry runs regularly. 

    Here’s our guide to the drive from Harstad to Svolvær via the Fv83. 

    In this article...

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    Visit Our YouTube Channel

    Harstad to Svolvær

    Harstad Travel Guide

    Read more about Harstad, one of the largest towns in Northern Norway, below. 

    Harstad Travel Guide

    Kvæfjord Municipality

    Kvæfjord municipality is a scenic municipality located on the island of Hinnøya, which is the largest island in Norway. Around 2,800 people live in the municipality. Kvæfjord is known for its agricultural heritage and its production of strawberries and potatoes. The farms here benefit from south-facing slopes and bright nights under the midnight sun. The fjord is known for its rich supply of herring.

    Archaeological evidence shows there has been settlement here since at least the Iron Age, and there are farms that have evidence of habitation back to 300BC. Some place names in the area come from the Viking Age. There has also always been a small Sami settlement in the area.

    Kvæfjord is home to Norway’s national cake, the Kvæfjord cake. The cake is made with meringue, vanilla cream and almonds.

    Kvæøya

    Island

    You’ll pass a right turn that takes you towards the island. Kvæøya is a small island in the Kvæfjord. It is connected to the mainland via a small bridge, the Kvæøy Bridge, which was completed in 2010. The island is highly regarded for its farming, with large farms on the southern and western sides. 

    Hemmestad

    Village

    Hemmestad is a small village with an interesting history. It used to be the ‘capital’ of Kvæfjord and was a major trading area. In the village today you’ll find the old Hemmstad Brygge (pier), a heritage-listed building that was the trading centre for Kvæfjord throughout the 19th century. Twice a year boats came here with coffee, spices, candy, textiles and spirits. From Hemmestad, rockfish, cod, fowl and mullet was exported.

    Today Hemmestad Brygge is a museum complex that explains the history of trade here.

    Refnes - Flesnes

    Ferry

    You will now take the ferry between Refnes and Flesnes, two small villages on either side of the Gullesfjorden. 

    Bogen

    Settlement

    Bogen is a small settlement that relies on agriculture and fish farming. There is an annual festival here called Flesnes i fest, where several hundred people come to compete in football and car races.

    Langvassbukta

    Village

    Langvassbukta is a small village by the Gullefjord. This is where the county road ends. From here, it turns into Highway 85 (Rv85). To go towards Lofoten, turn left towards Lødingen. It is also recommended to take a scenic detour to Sortland and back.

    This guide follows the scenic detour. 

    Sortland Municipality

    Sortland municipality is the administrative centre for the region and is named after the town of Sortland, which is the largest town and commercial centre in the traditional region of Vesterålen. It is part of the county of Nordland.

    The municipality is spread across the islands of Langøya and Hinnøya in the Vesterålen archipelago. The mountain Møysalen is part of the Møysalen National Park, located in the southern part of the municipality. The midnight sun occurs from the 23rd of May to the 23rd of July, while the polar night occurs from the 30th of November until the 12th of January.

    Sigerfjord

    Town

    Sigerfjord is a small town with around 800 people living there. The church is from 1933 but has a figure of St. Olav from the 15th century inside. It came from an earlier church on the same spot. The town has a primary school and kindergarten. Most of the industry here is connected to the sea.

    Sortland

    Sortland is the main town and administrative centre for the region. It is also known as the ‘blue city’.

    Sortland is a 15 minute detour from Sigerfjord, but is well worth it if you want to stop for a coffee break or pick up some supplies.

    You can read about Sortland via our travel guide below. 

    Sortland Travel Guide

    This drive now continues back towards Lødingen. You’ll reach a round-a-bout and turn onto the E10 towards Å i Lofoten. 

    Hadsel Municipality

    Hadsel municipality is located on four main islands in Vesterålen – Hinnøya, Langøya, Hadseløya, and Austvågøya.

    Hadsel has been an important hub for the fishing industry, and due to its proximity to Lofoten has always been an important trading place for Lofoten residents. The oldest settlements were likely on the southern side of Hadseløya, but the main harbour has always been Stokmarknes.

    The name “Hadsel” comes from the Old Norse word “Hovdasegl”, meaning “main sail”. The name describes that Hadseløya can look like a merged mainsail on a Nordland boat when you see Hadseløya from Langøya. The Sami name for Hadsel is Ulpesuohkan, referring to the old name for the area (Ulvøya).

    The main airport here is the Stokmarknes Airport, the busiest small aircraft airport in Norway. Stokmarknes is also the birthplace of Hurtigruten, the Norwegian coastal ferry.

    The coat of arms represents four yellow rings, representing the four main islands the municipality is on.

    Vågan Municipality

    Vågan is a major municipality in Lofoten. It includes most of the island Austvågøy as well as Gimsøya. It is the easternmost of Lofoten’s six municipalities. The main town in Vågan is Svolvær, where this drive ends. Fishing is the most important industry here, and Vågan is North Norway’s 8th largest fishing municipality.

    Austnesfjorden

    Photo stop

    The view is excellent over the fjord and you can see Sildpollnes Church in the distance.

    Sildpollnes Church is a small white wooden church from 1891. The church had some drama recently, when the current neighbour refused to let people through his property to get to the church because he said the 1890 agreement stated people could pass on foot, but it didn’t mention automobiles. The church closed in 2015 and the case went to court, with the neighbour loosing and the Lofoten District Court ruling in favour of the church.

    At the photo stop they have a place you can walk up to with a viewing platform. I’ve used a photo of it at the top of this page. This is where you get the view out to the church. 

    Svolvær Airport

    Airport

    Svolvær Airport is a regional airport in Lofoten. While it is one of the main airports for Lofoten, it is likely not the one you will fly to if you are flying to Lofoten – instead, it’s better to fly to Harstad/Narvik and drive from there. Svolvær Airport is served by Widerøe and the routes are subsidized by the government with direct flights to Bodø, Oslo, and small communities in Nordland county. There are plans to make a new primary airport to serve the Lofoten and Vesterålen region, making it more attractive to visit out of the tourist season.

    Svolvær

    We have made it to Svolvær, the end of today’s drive! You can read more about Svolvær on our dedicated travel page. 

    Svolvær Travel Guide

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

    Previous Drive

    Kiruna to Harstad via Narvik

    See the previous day’s drive from Kiruna in Sweden to Harstad in Norway via the Norwegian town of Narvik. 

    Kiruna to Harstad via Narvik
  • Harstad, Norway, Walking Guides

    A Heritage Walk through Harstad’s Historic Town Centre

    A Heritage Walk through Harstad’s Historic Town Centre

    Harstad is a large city in the far north of Norway. While it’s not as historic as its neigbhours Bodo and Tromso, the town has some charming historic buildings from the mid-19th century heyday of shipping. There are lots of terrible post-war buildings, too. So I wrote this guide to show you the highlights of Harstad.

    When I visited Harstad in June 2021 to plan this walk, I was surprised by how empty the town was. There are many shopping malls around the town today, so the inner town centre is in decline. Harstad isn’t exactly a place where people come to walk around; it seems to be more of a stopover on the way to popular natural attractions. But that’s why I wanted to try and figure out if there was any history in Harstad, and if so, where was it?

    Large parts of the historic buildings have been destroyed by fire or war, but there are some true historic gems to be found in Harstad.

    A huge help for this guide was LokalHistorieWiki, a Norwegian Wiki page where history enthusiasts can upload information about their town, broken down by street and house number. The group in Harstad is a very enthusiastic one, and there is a wealth of information and photographs there! The site is only in Norwegian, but I’ve included some links so you can look at the old photos.

    Here is a guide to the historic buildings in Harstad town centre.

    In this article...

    Norway's Coastal Ferry

    Kirkenes is a port of call of Norway’s coastal ferry. Find my guide for the coastal ferry by clicking the link below. 

    Norway's Coastal Ferry
    Harstad Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Harstadhamn

    Located just north of the city today is Harstadhamn, a small cove that served as the basis for the foundation of Harstad.

    Harstad wasn’t the original settlement in the area. Ever since the Viking Age there has been a settlement in the area around Trondenes Church, today a 10 minute drive from Harstad town centre. It was an important political centre in the Viking Age and was the main town for hundreds of years.

    Harstad began to overtake Trondenes in importance after Bergen’s monopoly on trade declined and traffic increased along the northern coast. Harstad had a better natural harbour than Trondenes, so gradually the town moved.

    The first settlement took place around Harstadhamn. The small cove was perfect for the smaller ships and here the sea-related business flourished as skilled and forward-looking people moved to the area.

    Havnegata

    Havnegata is where all the industry around Harstadhamn developed. Many large factory buildings used to be here; today pretty much all of them are gone.

    You can see more of the buildings if you walk down Havnegata, but the nicer walk is to head to the pier and follow the promenade towards the city.

    You can find some old photographs and maps at LokalHistorieWiki (click here).

    Harstad Library and Culture House

    Library operations have been in Harstad since 1848. The current library is incorporated into Haarstad’s Cultural Centre. The culture house was built in 1992 and is the city’s main venue with 1,000 seats.

    Havnegata 5B

    Next to the Culture House is a building that has kept its old factory appearance. This building is from 1916, when it was a factory for the Midnight Sun Preserving Company. Today the building is part of the University and works as a student hostel. Not a bad place for students to stay!

    Havnegata 9

    HarstadNumber 9 is arguably the most beautiful house on the street. It was built for the Store Norske Spitsbergen Kulkompani in 1919 and is now for the student union.

    Havnegata 23B - Gammelbrygga

    Here we find another old warehouse. This one is a well-known landmark that has been threatened with demolition for the past 10 years. A support group, Gammelbrygg’s Friends, has been established to research the pier and work to protect it.

    There’s still some disagreement about when it was built and what it was used for, but it is nice to see in the city.

    You can see some old photos of the pier at LokalHistorieWiki (click here).

    Harstadsjøen

    Looking out towards Harstadsjoen

    Harstadsjøen is the name for the old settlement of Harstad. As steamships began to overtake sailing ships, Harstadsjøen was a better spot for them to dock. The first merchant houses were developed along Strandgata because of its close proximity to Harstadsjøen, and many of them had harbour access.

    The yellow building is the Swedish Port Authority’s expedition building from 1913. It has architectural style in both Neo-Baroque and Art Nouveau, and the building housed many consulates for around Europe as well as many representatives from the Norwegian shipping companies.

    Strandgata

    Strandgata (Beach Street) is the street where many of Harstad’s most distinctive buildings stand. It is also mostly a pedestrianised street with lots of the local buisnesses.

    This street is fascinating because it really tells Harstad’s history. People came from all over Norway to try and establish a successful business in Harstad after the boom in shipping and trade. Most of the businesses along the street were established by out-of-towners coming here to try their luck.

    Here are some of the older houses along Strandgata.

    Strandgata 19

    Strandgata 19 is a bit of a detour away from the direction we are going, but it is worth it.

    This house was built by pharmacist Harald Dahl in 1894 in the Swiss style of architecture. The pharmacy operated here for 56 years. The Swiss architecture is some of the most beautiful in Harstad.

    Strandgata 12

    Strandgata 12 opened as a bookstore in 1902 by a woman called Mathilde Bakke, and since then it has been a car workshop and a children’s clothing store, amongst other things.

    Strandgata 10

    This is one of the older houses in Harstad; built in 1896. It was owned by a woman called Hilda Oldenborg, who ran a business in embroideries, yarn and a colonial that sold coffee. ‘Colonial’ was the name of a grocery store with imports from overseas (i.e. the ‘colonies’).

    Strandgata 8

    Number 8 is another early 20th century wooden building. It was owned by Elias Hoel, a pioneer in the town who came to own many of Harstad’s buildings. The locals recognise it as the Harstad Bookshop, which operated from 1925 until 2001 in the building.

    Strandgata 6

    This house was built by the merchant Peder Thorbergsen, who received a deed to the plot of land in 1894. The building used to have a dock out the back.

    Strandgata 4

    Strandgata 4 was built in 1891, though it was damaged by fire in 1913. When it was brick, the art nouveau style was used instead. The house operated as a smokehouse and warehouse.

    Strandgata 2

    The other brick building is number 2. It was for Gunder Erikens, a watchmaker who came to Harstad in 1902 and built a wooden house. The house had a wharf out the back; the house practically stood on the edge of the beach. On the street level was the goldware, watch and optics shop, and there was an apartment on the upper level.

    The property was damaged by fire because some boys anted to make their own New Years Fireworks, which led to an explosion.

    Rikard Kaarbø's Plass

    Rikard Kaarbø is the man who is considered to be the founder of Harstad. He was the initiator and contributor to a number of businesses in Harstad that contibuted to Harstad getting city status in 1904. Amongst other things, he established the first newspaper in Harstad. Rikard Kaarbø also worked with many of the steamship companies.

    Rikard Kaarbø's Plass 2

    This is the most striking building in Harstad. It is beautiful detailing in Art Nouveau and Neo-Gothic. It’s funny to think that the building was built for the Harstad Beer and Wine Association in 1906, but the bank took it over in 1917!

    In 2010, this building was voted ‘most beautiful’ by the Harstad locals.

    Rikard Kaarbø's Plass 4

    Number four is where businessman Elias Hoel lived from 1903.

    The square gained prominence in the 1920s and 1930s but not for good reasons. With high unemployment and poverty grappling Harstad, it was where the men who had nothing else to do gathered.

    Rikard Kaarbøs Gate

    This street has some well-preserved wooden buildings. Businessman Elias Hoel was the one who regulated the street and he owned most of the plots on the street. This was also Harstad’s first car-free street.

    The street passes through the square, so some of the buildings are close to number 2 (the beautiful brick building)

    Rikard Kaarbø's Gate 14

    This building is located across the street from the beautiful brick building. It’s worth checking out because it is Harstad’s oldest wooden building; built in 1870.

    Rikard Kaarbø's Gate 10

    Number 10 was built by master baker John Sumstad in 1913 and it was a bakery for around 20 years before being converted into a hotel called Hotel Royal.

    Rikard Kaarbø's Gate 8

    This building is from the 1880s and was used by Rikard Kaarbø as a post office.

    Rikard Kaarbøs Gate 6

    Number 6 was built by Elias Hotel in the 1890s and was operated as a hotel and restaurant called Britannia.

    Torvet

    Torvet is likely the oldest square in Harstad. Sadly most of the original buildings are gone but you can see them in photos.

    You can view photos of Torvet at LokalHistorieWiki (click here).

    Torvet 7

    This is the most interesting building on Torvet. It was built around 1900 and was known as Holmgården. The wooden building still stands, but a shopping mall has been built around it.

    Norway's Coastal Ferry

    Kirkenes is a port of call of Norway’s coastal ferry. Find my guide for the coastal ferry by clicking the link below. 

    Norway's Coastal Ferry
    Harstad Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    End of the walk!

    We end our walk down by Torvet 7. This is by the water and also very close to where the Hurtigruten docks in the morning.

    I hope you enjoyed this heritage walk through Harstad. The goal was to show there’s more to Harstad than meets the eye, and that the historic buildings can still be found in the city.

    Travelling to Harstad on Hurtigruten?

    You probably have enough time to make it to Rikard Kaarbøs plass and back, now that you know the historic centre of Harstad is just a stones throw away.

  • Andenes, Harstad, National Tourist Roads, Northern Norway, Road-trips, Sortland

    Drive it Yourself: Harstad to Andenes on the Andøya Tourist Road

    Drive it Yourself: Harstad to Andenes on the Andøya Tourist Road

    This drive doesn’t have to begin in Harstad. The Andøya Tourist Road is close to the Lofoten Tourist Road, so you can easily do this from Svolvær, for example. 

    The Andøya Tourist Road is one of Norway’s most remote tourist roads, and in many ways, it feels like one of the country’s best-kept secrets. Located close to the far more famous Lofoten Islands, this road takes along the rough coastline past some of the most stunning scenery Norway has to offer.

    Andøya Island (explained in detail later in this driving guide) is a unique island. It is the only place on the Norwegian mainland where dinosaur fossils have been found, it is famous for its Arctic cloudberries, and whales, puffins and seals can be seen for large parts of the year.

    While the tourist road itself is short, the drive is well worth the time it takes to get to this remote part of the world.

    In this article...

    Downloadable Version of This Guide

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

    View at the Store

    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Information about facilities along the way

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the region & towns
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Facilities including supermarkets, toilets, petrol, hotels, cafes, restaurants with addresses.

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    Visit Our YouTube Channel

    The drive: Harstad to Andenes

    Harstad

    Harstad is the second largest city in Troms (after Tromsø). It’s a good place to spend the night thanks to its large selection of hotels and restaurants. The YouTube video begins in Harstad.

    For information about Harstad, head to the travel guide  page. 

    Harstad Travel Guide

    Sørvik

    Village

    Sørvik is a small village located close to Harstad. The village has a historical museum that opens in the summer. They’ve collected log buildings from around Harstad and recreated the museum like an old farm and village. The museum aims to show the Norwegian home and lifestyle in the 19th and early 20th century, though some of the architecture dates back to before the 19th century.

    Sandtorg

    Village

    Sandtorg is a small village with a population of around 300. It is an old settlement; there has been a trading post here since the 13th century. Sandtorg grew in importance in the 18th century when pilot services were added for foreign and local ships. The trading post lasted until 1945, when the Norwegian Amy’s communication services took over operations after German occupation. The army returned the post to civilian use in the 1990s and today the trading post still stands with a hotel and restaurant.

    In 2014, three coins from the Middle Ages and two pieces of payment silver dating to the Viking times were found here. The two coins were minted under Eirik Magnusson and date to 1285-1290. The third coin is from 1483-1513. In 2020, it was concluded that Sandtorg is the only Viking Age trading place in Northern Norway.

    You can spend the night at Sandtorgholmen Hotel, which is built on the site that has been used as the trading post since the 19th century. The original site was further north. Prices start at around 1200 NOK for a standard room for one night.

    You can visit the hotel website here: https://www.sandtorgholmen.no/?lang=en

    Tjeldsund County

    Tjeldsund Municipality

    Tjeldsund (Sami name: Dielddanuorri) is a municipality that’s part of the Ofoten traditional district and the Central Hålogaland district. The main village in the municipality is Evenskjer.  The main education and training centre for Norway’s firemen, Norges Brannskole, is in Fjelldal in Tjeldsund. A naval base is also located here at Ramsund. Besides that, there is some small industry including farming, fishing, banking, and transport.

    Kongsvik

    Village

    Kongsvika is a small village with around 300 people living there. It has cabins for rental and a petrol station. 

    Nordland County

    Nordland County

    Nordland County is located along the north-western coast of the Scandinavian peninsula. Due to its huge size and low population, it is one of the least polluted areas in Europe. The county is defined by steep mountains near the sea and a lowland area between the mountains and the sea. The Arctic Circle cuts through the county.

    Troms County

    Troms County

    We cross back into Troms County. 

    Troms County existed up until 1 January 2020, when it was merged with Finnmark County to make Troms og Finnmark. However, at time of writing, there are rumours the two will split up. So, I’m going to provide information just about Troms.

    The area has been settled since the Stone Age, and the first of the current ethnic groups to settle in the county were the Sami people. Archaeological evidence shows that a Norse-based culture existed here in the Late Roman Iron Age (200-400AD).

    The Norse settled along the coast and some of the larger fjords, while the Sami lived in some fjord areas and inland. The southern part of Troms was a petty kingdom in the Viking Age. Trondenes (today’s Harstad) was an important Viking power centre and gathering place.

    Troms takes its name from the island Tromsøya where the city Tromsø is located. The area is in the northern part of the Scandinavian peninsula, and due to its low population and distance from high density European cities, it is one of the least polluted areas in Europe.

    With its latitude of nearly 70 degrees north, the area has cool, short summers but mild winters due to the Gulf Stream. The area experiences the midnight sun between May and July and then the polar night between November and January.

    Outside of the big cities, fishing remains an important industry and there are several important fishing ports throughout the county. Tromsø is the commercial centre for the northern part of the county, while Harstad is the centre for the southern part of the county.

    Kvæfjord Municipality

    Kvæfjord (Sami: Giehtavuotna) is in the traditional region of Central Hålogaland with the main village being Borkenes. The municipality is known for its agriculture and farming, with the quality of the strawberries being particularly famous.

    The long hours of daylight and low summer temperatures are great for strawberries, making them more tasteful than berries grown in warmer climates. Potatoes are also particularly well known from this region, and the fjords are known for their good herring. Chicken farming for egg production and pig farming are also important.

    Kvæfjord is a historic region, and burial mounds and items found during excavations indicate that there have been settlements here since the Iron Age. One of the oldest farms, Vebostad, has traces from 300BC. Many of the names in the area have Iron Age and Viking Age origin. For example, Vebostad has ‘ve’ in it, which is an old word meaning sanctuary, residence, and pagan sacrificial site. Another farm, Hundstad, may be connected to the famous Viking Tore Hund.

    Sami people have lived in Kvæfjord for a very long time, but the historical information is scattered. It is known that the Sami lived along the fjords, particularly Austerfjord, as well as in the inland areas. In the Storjord area are traces of Sami settlement from the 17th to 19th centuries.

    Langvassbukta

    Village

    Kvæfjord (Sami: Giehtavuotna) is in the traditional region of Central Hålogaland with the main village being Borkenes. The municipality is known for its agriculture and farming, with the quality of the strawberries being particularly famous.

    The long hours of daylight and low summer temperatures are great for strawberries, making them more tasteful than berries grown in warmer climates. Potatoes are also particularly well known from this region, and the fjords are known for their good herring. Chicken farming for egg production and pig farming are also important.

    Kvæfjord is a historic region, and burial mounds and items found during excavations indicate that there have been settlements here since the Iron Age. One of the oldest farms, Vebostad, has traces from 300BC. Many of the names in the area have Iron Age and Viking Age origin. For example, Vebostad has ‘ve’ in it, which is an old word meaning sanctuary, residence, and pagan sacrificial site. Another farm, Hundstad, may be connected to the famous Viking Tore Hund.

    Sami people have lived in Kvæfjord for a very long time, but the historical information is scattered. It is known that the Sami lived along the fjords, particularly Austerfjord, as well as in the inland areas. In the Storjord area are traces of Sami settlement from the 17th to 19th centuries.

    Sortland Municipality

    Sortland (Sami name: Suortá) Municipality is part of the traditional region of Vesterålen. It is located in the southern part of Vesterålen on the islands Langøya and Hinnøya, and the municipality surrounds the inner part of the Eidsfjorden and the Sortland Strait. The midnight sun occurs from 23 May to 23 July, while the polar night is from 30 November to 12 January. The region is popular for observing the northern lights.

    History

    The region is mentioned in the Viking Sagas, where it is written as the home of Karle and Gunnstein, who took part in Tore Hund’s campaign against King Olav. The first church is mentioned in written sources in 1370.

    Yacht skipper Søren Mørch from Bergen settled here and started a yacht trade in 1659. This is the year Sortland is considered to be founded.

    Industry

    Sortland is home to the Coast Guard Base in Norway. Tourism is also important, as is agriculture. Parts of the municipality were known in the latter half of the 19th century as one of Norway’s best regions for herring. The herring adventure here helped lay the foundation or the establishment of Hurtigruten. While the herring aren’t as plentiful as back then, there are still fishing in Sortland.

    Sami Activity

    Sortland has a small Sami population. A Sami family runs reindeer herding on Hinnøya. There used to be a reindeer husbandry, but it was closed in 1972. Some place names in the region come from Sami words.

    Culture

    Sortland is regarded as one of the best music communities in Norway and the local band Madrugada has been one of the best in the country. The Sortland Jazz Festival takes place every autumn, and some of the world’s leading jazz musicians have taken part.

    Sortland is the only municipality in Vesterålen that has seen a stable increase in the popular over the past 25 years.

    Sortland

    If you want to go into Sortland, you’ll take the Sortland Bridge across the town (instead of continuing straight towards Andøya). You come to this junction as you are crossing through the village Strand (you see Sortland across the strait and you see the massive bridge well in advance). 

    Sortland has a population of around 5,500 and is the largest town and commercial centre in Vesterålen.

    As you drive through Sortland, you will notice many of the buildings are painted blue. The local artist Bjørn Elvenes came up with the idea to bring colour into the city and attract tourists too. The idea wasn’t too popular amongst the locals, but it was adopted as a millennium project by the city. However, it didn’t go very well. Elvenes wanted more artistic control in creating Sortland into a 3D-like painting, while the architects wanted to use colour to highlight the features of the buildings.

    Elvenes fell out with the council and began to cooperate with the buildings directly, while others chose the councils plans. Because of that, the blue buildings are not as unified as they could be. Not all the buildings are blue, but enough of them are that you’ll wonder what’s going on.

    Sortland has a massive shopping mall, Sortland Storsenter, where you’ll be able to buy groceries, alcohol, clothing, cosmetics, etc. If you need anything, I recommend stopping here as Andenes doesn’t have so much. There are also cafes, restaurants, takeaway and petrol stations in Sortland. 

    Sortland Travel Guide

    Andøy Municipality

    Andøy is the northernmost municipality in Nordland, and forms part of the Vesterålen archipelago. The population of Andøya has decreased by 6.8% over the last ten years, and the main settlement is Andenes. The meaning of Andøy is unknown, though the last element means ‘island’.

    The municipality is spread across the island of Andøya and Hinnøya. The mid-section has bogs and marshes known for their Arctic cloudberries, and there are numerous lakes here too. The island is the only place in continental Norway where coal and fossils from dinosaurs are found. The Forfjorddalen nature reserve has some of the oldest pine trees in Scandinavia – some are more than 700 years old. Andøys is also the place where Egga, the edge of the continental shelf, is closest to the land.

    The municipality has a strong connection to aviation, with the 333 Squadron of the Air Force being stationed at Andøya Airport. The Andøya Space Centre is involved in international cooperation of the polar atmosphere and the northern lights. Andøya Airport is proposed to be closed by 2025, with air traffic moving to Evenes Airport.

    The fishing industry is still important to the municipality, and Andenes is one of the country’s largest fishing harbours and one of Northern Europe’s largest port facilities.

    Forfjord

    Village

    The name of the village is Forfjord, which comes from the name of the fjord the village is built around. The nature reserve here has the oldest living pine trees in Northern Europe, with some of them dating back to 830 AD. It is assumed that the forest was a source of timber and tar for Viking ships, and there are settlements and burial sites that are yet to be excavated.

    A famous person in Norwegian exploration came from Forfjord: Hans Jørgen Furfjord. He led the first expedition to stay the winter on Svalbard to hunt silver foxes, walruses, seals and polar bears. Items from his expeditions are on display in museums in Tromsø and Svalbard. Hans also kept diaries describing his adventures, including European monarchs visiting, his being imprisoned by British soldiers for not supplying them for free, barely surviving polar bear encounters, and surviving not freezing to death. He died at the age of 81 at his home in Forfjord. Some of his children emigrated to Canada and the United States, where some of his descendants live today. Some remain in Forfjord.  

    Risøyhamn

    Village

    Risøyhamn is a small village located on the island Andøya. It has a population of 216 and is serviced by the Hurtigruten twice a day – if you take the Hurtigruten southbound you see the village around 11:30am. There are many older buildings in Risøyhamn, including Gammelg ården from the early 18th century. There is a small open-air museum here with five buildings. Click here to view a website about the buildings (in Norwegian only). 

    Andøya Tourist Road

    Bjørnskinn

    Village

    Bjørnskinn is a small settlement with the Bjørnskinn church. The church was in use in 1589, but it was not new then. The church was replaced in 1740 and again in 1885.

    Bukkekjerka

    Rest Stop

    Bukkekjerka is a rest stop and rock formation that was historically a Sami sacrificial site. The word Bukkekjerka, which is a Sami word, refers to crevice (bohki) and rock (giergie). Several tracks lead to the top of the rock, where there is a small bench.

     

    There used to be a fishing village here called Børvågen that was very active during the herring fisheries period, but the town was reduced to rubble in a huge storm in 1879. Remains of Iron Age buildings, burial mounds and boat landings have been found in the area.

     

    There are toilets here, too. They are open from mid-May until the end of September. The rest area won an architecture design prize in 2018.

    Nordmela

    Village

    Nordmela is a fishing village with about 120 inhabitants. There are written sources that people have lived here since the 16th century, but there are findings from the Stone Age in the area. The area used to be a stronger fishing village, but one of the main companies went bankrupt in 2009. The local school closed down in 2008.

    Måtinden

    Mountain

    Måtinden is 408m (2000ft) high and the walking path is about 4km each way. The hike is not demanding, but some sections are a little steep.

    Read more about the mountain by clicking here. 

    Bleik

    Village

    Bleik is a small fishing village with a population of around 460. Bleik has one of the longest beaches in Norway, and it’s believed that’s where the village gets its name (bleik = white/pale). It’s believed people have lived here for a very long time, as an old farm mound can be traced back to 600AD and has a depth of 6 metres.

    15km offshore from the beach is the Bleik Canyon, a deep canyon with depths of up to 3000m. It’s common to see sperm whales here, which is why Andøya is known for its whale safaris.

    There is a triangle shaped island off the coast called Bleiksøya, and that’s where you can see puffins – it is the largest resort for puffins in Norway. These puffins are highly endangered due to the white-tailed eagle and the golden eagle, which are also often spotted here. The puffins are here from mid-April until mid-August, and puffin safaris can be taken from Bleik, which is what we did!

    Andøya Space

    Space centre

    Shortly after Bleik you’ll pass a large complex on your left; this is Andøya Space. It’s a rocket launch site, rocket range and space port. Over 1,200 sounding and sub-orbital rockets of various configurations have been launched from the site. The centre is also used for observing and studying the northern lights. Andøya Space has worked with the likes of ESA, NASA, JAXA and national and international universities.

    Andenes

    Andenes is a small fishing community located on the top of Andøya. The village is known as being one of the best places to set off on a whale safari, and it has a direct ferry connection to the famous Senja Island, which we will be taking the following day.

    You can read all about Andenes on the travel guide section of the website. 

    Andenes Travel Guide

    Continue the drive

    Senja Tourist Road

    It is an absolute must to combine the Andøya Tourist Road with the Senja Tourist Road!

    Senja Tourist Road

    Previous Drive

    The Lofoten Islands Part 2: Svolvær to Harstad

    See the previous day’s drive through the Lofoten Islands. 

    Lofoten Islands Part Two

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • European Highways, Harstad, Lofoten Islands, National Tourist Roads, Road-trips, Svolvaer

    Drive it Yourself: The Lofoten Islands Part 2: Svolvær to Harstad

    Drive it Yourself: The Lofoten Islands Part 2: Svolvær to Harstad

    The Lofoten Islands is probably one of the most famous places in Norway. Many people making the trip here want to head to Lofoten, and rightly so. Steep mountain peaks rise out of the ocean forming the Lofoten archipelago, one of the most scenic places in Norway. For thousands of years fishermen have lived at the foot of these peaks, building now iconic rorbuer and living off the cod fishing season. This history survives today on Lofoten, and you get to explore it with this road-trip!

    This road-trip is part one of two parts and takes you from Å in the south to Svolvær, which is a little over halfway up the archipelago.

    In this article...

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    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Information about facilities along the way

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    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the region & towns
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Facilities including supermarkets, toilets, petrol, hotels, cafes, restaurants with addresses.

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    Begin: Svolvær

    With a population of 4,720, Svolvær is the largest city in the Lofoten Islands. The settlement is old; Svolvær was first mentioned in 1567. However, Svolvær didn’t gain prominence until the early 20th century when the motorized boats needed a modern harbour.

    The cod fisheries are still an important industry in Svolvær, but tourism is one of the main industries in the city. Svolvær is also a major transportation hub and favourite starting point for tourists. The Hurtigruten also stops here twice a day. It is possible to do sea eagle safaris, whale watching tours, and take a scenic cruise into the nearby Trollfjord. Svolvær also has a downhill skiing centre. In town, you’ll find the Lofoten War Memorial Museum a Magic Ice Bar, and numerous galleries.

    Svolvær Travel Guide

    Svolvær Airport

    Airport

    Svolvær Airport is a regional airport in Lofoten. While it is one of the main airports for Lofoten, it is likely not the one you will fly to if you are flying to Lofoten – instead, it’s better to fly to Harstad/Narvik and drive from there. Svolvær Airport is served by Widerøe and the routes are subsidized by the government with direct flights to Bodø, Oslo, and small communities in Nordland county. There are plans to make a new primary airport to serve the Lofoten and Vesterålen region, making it more attractive to visit out of the tourist season.

    Austnesfjorden

    Photo Stop

    The Austnesfjorden Photo Stop is located shortly after Svolvær Airport. The view is excellent over the fjord and you can see Sildpollnes Church in the distance.

    Sildpollnes Church is a small white wooden church from 1891. The church had some drama recently, when the current neighbour refused to let people through his property to get to the church because he said the 1890 agreement stated people could pass on foot, but it didn’t mention automobiles. The church closed in 2015 and the case went to court, with the neighbour loosing and the Lofoten District Court ruling in favour of the church.

    At the photo stop they have a place you can walk up to with a viewing platform. I’ve used a photo of it at the top of this page. This is where you get the view out to the church. 

    Hadsel Municipality

    Hadsel municipality is located on four main islands in Vesterålen – Hinnøya, Langøya, Hadseløya, and Austvågøya.

    Hadsel has been an important hub for the fishing industry, and due to its proximity to Lofoten has always been an important trading place for Lofoten residents. The oldest settlements were likely on the southern side of Hadseløya, but the main harbour has always been Stokmarknes.

    The name “Hadsel” comes from the Old Norse word “Hovdasegl”, meaning “main sail”. The name describes that Hadseløya can look like a merged mainsail on a Nordland boat when you see Hadseløya from Langøya. The Sami name for Hadsel is Ulpesuohkan, referring to the old name for the area (Ulvøya).

    The main airport here is the Stokmarknes Airport, the busiest small aircraft airport in Norway. Stokmarknes is also the birthplace of Hurtigruten, the Norwegian coastal ferry.

    The coat of arms represents four yellow rings, representing the four main islands the municipality is on.

    Vesterålen

    Traditional Region

    Many people confuse Vesterålen for Lofoten, but in fact they are two different areas. 

    Vesterålen is an archipelago between Lofoten and the Norwegian mainland. Many assume that the whole area is just Lofoten, but it’s just the southern half of the islands. The name “Vesterålen” means “western strait”. The landscape here is very mountainous, but the mountains are more rounded than Lofoten. The towns and villages are on the coastal brim between the mountains and the fjords. Fishing, in particular cod fisheries, has always been important to Vesterålen. Today there is also fish farming and some agriculture in the area.

    Hinnøya

    Island

    Hinnøya is the fourth largest island in Norway, and the largest out of Svalbard. The island has several fjords and typically has a mountainous and rugged terrain. There are also valleys and lakes; the treeline is around 400m above sea level.

    Lødingen Municipality

    Lødingen (Sami name: Lodek) is a region on the southwestern part of the island Hinnøya and it is part of the traditional district called Ofoten. While not technically part of Vesterålen, it does participate in councils with the municipalities in Vesterålen.

    The most historically important place in Lødingen is Hjertholmen, a farm and meeting place for residents and visitors. It was owned by the Lødingen Prestegård (rectory) in 1860, and a lighthouse was also built on the site along with the guardhouse and telegraph office. Today the place is used as a gathering place for schools, kindergartens, and visitors. The site is located in Lødingen village.

    Another important site is Hustad gård, which was a large Viking farm 1,000 years ago. The museum tells the story of agricultural history, but there is also a cultural path that follows the Iron Age settlement. The main church, Lødingen Church, is built on the site of the first church in the area, built in the 13th century.

    The tallest mountain in Lødingen is the mountain Møysalen, which is 1263m above sea level making it the second highest mountain peak on an island in Norway.

    Lødingen is known as “Biketown” because it has several annual bike races. The Lødingen Cycling Club is Norway’s largest cycling club in terms of population. Lofoten Insomnia is a race that begins in Å (at the far end of Lofoten) and ends in Lødingen.

    Another important event here is the Seafood Festival with concerts and an excellent selection of seafood. Sailboats from all over the country visit the festival, which takes place in the early summer.

    Troms County

    Troms County existed up until 1 January 2020, when it was merged with Finnmark County to make Troms og Finnmark. However, at time of writing, there are rumours the two will split up. So, I’m going to provide information just about Troms.

    The area has been settled since the Stone Age, and the first of the current ethnic groups to settle in the county were the Sami people. Archaeological evidence shows that a Norse-based culture existed here in the Late Roman Iron Age (200-400AD). The Norse settled along the coast and some of the larger fjords, while the Sami lived in some fjord areas and inland. The southern part of Troms was a petty kingdom in the Viking Age. Trondenes (today’s Harstad) was an important Viking power centre and gathering place.

    Troms takes its name from the island Tromsøya where the city Tromsø is located. The area is in the northern part of the Scandinavian peninsula, and due to its low population and distance from high density European cities, it is one of the least polluted areas in Europe.

    With its latitude of nearly 70 degrees north, the area has cool, short summers but mild winters due to the Gulf Stream. The area experiences the midnight sun between May and July and then the polar night between November and January.

    Outside of the big cities, fishing remains an important industry and there are several important fishing ports throughout the county. Tromsø is the commercial centre for the northern part of the county, while Harstad is the centre for the southern part of the county.

    Kvæfjord Municipality

    Kvæfjord (Sami: Giehtavuotna) is in the traditional region of Central Hålogaland with the main village being Borkenes. The municipality is known for its agriculture and farming, with the quality of the strawberries being particularly famous. The long hours of daylight and low summer temperatures are great for strawberries, making them more tasteful than berries grown in warmer climates. Potatoes are also particularly well known from this region, and the fjords are known for their good herring. Chicken farming for egg production and pig farming are also important.

    Kvæfjord is a historic region, and burial mounds and items found during excavations indicate that there have been settlements here since the Iron Age. One of the oldest farms, Vebostad, has traces from 300BC. Many of the names in the area have Iron Age and Viking Age origin. For example, Vebostad has ‘ve’ in it, which is an old word meaning sanctuary, residence, and pagan sacrificial site. Another farm, Hundstad, may be connected to the famous Viking Tore Hund.

    On the mountain Melåaksla, over 30 shooting shelters have been found on an inaccessible mountain path that the reindeer use as a migration route. As many as 40-50 people were involved in reindeer hunting here.

    Sami people have lived in Kvæfjord for a very long time, but the historical information is scattered. It is known that the Sami lived along the fjords, particularly Austerfjord, as well as in the inland areas. In the Storjord area are traces of Sami settlement from the 17th to 19th centuries.

    Kvæfjord is the home of the Kvæfjord Cake, the Norwegian national cake. The cake is a sponge cake baked with meringue, vanilla cream, and almonds.

    Boazovazzi

    Shop

    On the right is Boazovazzi, a shop where you can buy Sami products. The name is the Sami word for ‘Reindeer herder’ and here you can buy reindeer meat or Sami handicrafts. They also have six rooms for rent. Put the name of the shop in Google and check them out!

    Tjeldsund Municipality

    Tjeldsund (Sami name: Dielddanuorri) is a municipality that’s part of the Ofoten traditional district and the Central Hålogaland district. The main village in the municipality is Evenskjer.  The main education and training centre for Norway’s firemen, Norges Brannskole, is in Fjelldal in Tjeldsund. A naval base is also located here at Ramsund. Besides that, there is some small industry including farming, fishing, banking, and transport.

    Kongsvika

    Village

    Kongsvika is a small village with around 300 people living there. It has cabins for rental and the first petrol station we’ve seen in a while! It’s a good place to stop for a break. 

    Sandtorg

    Village

    Sandtorg is a small village with a population of around 300. It is an old settlement; there has been a trading post here since the 13th century. Sandtorg grew in importance in the 18th century when pilot services were added for foreign and local ships. The trading post lasted until 1945, when the Norwegian Amy’s communication services took over operations after German occupation. The army returned the post to civilian use in the 1990s and today the trading post still stands with a hotel and restaurant.

    In 2014, three coins from the Middle Ages and two pieces of payment silver dating to the Viking times were found here. The two coins were minted under Eirik Magnusson and date to 1285-1290. The third coin is from 1483-1513. In 2020, it was concluded that Sandtorg is the only Viking Age trading place in Northern Norway.

    You can spend the night at Sandtorgholmen Hotel, which is built on the site that has been used as the trading post since the 19th century. The original site was further north. Prices start at around 1200 NOK for a standard room for one night.

    You can visit the hotel website here: https://www.sandtorgholmen.no/?lang=en

    Sørvik

    Village

    Sørvik is a small village located close to Harstad. The village has a historical museum that opens in the summer. They’ve collected log buildings from around Harstad and recreated the museum like an old farm and village. The museum aims to show the Norwegian home and lifestyle in the 19th and early 20th century, though some of the architecture dates back to before the 19th century.

    Harstad

    Harstad is the second most populated city in Troms after Tromsø, with a population of 24,703.

    The oldest part of Harstad is the area Trondenes, which is mentioned in the Heimskringla (King’s Sagas) as a power centre in the Viking Age and a place to meet and discuss important issues. It wasn’t a trading place; Sandtorg is the only known Viking Age trading place in Northern Norway. It is possible to visit Trondenes, and that’s where we are going!

    Harstad city didn’t grow until the late 19th and early 20th centuries, when it emerged as an important trading place with a large harbour for ships. The city experienced rapid expansion with the introduction of steam ships.

    Harstad Travel Guide

    Continue the drive

    Andøya Tourist Road

    Visit Norway’s most remote tourist road at the end of the world!

    Andøya Tourist Road

    Previous Drive

    The Lofoten Islands Part 1: Å to Svolvær

    See the previous day’s drive through the lower part of Lofoten

    Å to Svolvær

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!