When driving along Highway 13 between Eidfjord and Odda, you’ll pass through the village of Kinsarvik. You wouldn’t really know it was a village, let alone an important Viking-era settlement, because it has now been transformed into something of a holiday park with water activities for kids and cabins to rent. But look a little closer and you’ll see a stone church down by the water. This is one of the oldest churches in the region and hints at the historic importance of Kinsarvik.
I find the Kinsarvik church fascinating. Tucked away by the fjord, this small unassuming church carries almost 1,000 years of history. So, when you are doing your road-trip, be sure to stop by the church and admire its uniqueness!
Here is some information about the Kinsarvik Church.
The Rv13 Highway
Kinsarvik is located on the Rv13 highway. You can find my guide to the Rv13 by clicking the link below.
Kinsarvik Church is the oldest stone church in the Hardanger region and used to function as the main church for the region. It is strategically located at the junction of the Hardangerfjord and the Sørfjorden, which leads to Odda, so locals could row their boats into Kinsarvik and attend church.
The earliest records of the church date back to 1298, but the church wasn’t built then. The stone church isn’t even the first church on the site; it’s believed a wooden church stood here around 1050. The wooden church was likely a ‘post church’, which is the predecessor to the stave church. The difference between them is that the post church has its beams going directly into the ground, while stave churches rest on stone foundations. Post churches don’t survive anymore because, well, putting posts directly into the ground meant the wood would rot. Stave churches are an evolution of the post church in that regard because the stone protects the wood from rotting.
The stone church was built to replace the old wooden church around 1160, and remains of the wooden church have been found underneath. Building in stone was very expensive and only reserved for churches of importance. Think of Stavanger, Bergen, Trondheim and Oslo with their well-preserved stone churches. These were all major cities. So, using stone at Kinsarvik indicates that this was an important place.
Romanesque details at Kinsarvik Church
Church Style
The church is built in a Romanesque style with a rectangular nave, and the foundation walls are about 1.5m (4ft 11 inches) wide.
Archaeological excavations have found there was a fire in the church around the year 1180. This was around the time of the Norwegian Civil War, and there were two major groups – the Birkebeiner and the Bagler – fighting against each other. It is documented that the Birkeners ravaged the area, so it may be them who caused the fire.
The choir was built after the fire, likely around the 13th century.
Exterior Detailing
If you look at the church, you’ll notice that all of the portals, window openings and walls have been retained from the Middle Ages.
Something that is curious is the window high up on the west gable. It is a window leading up to the church attic. It is here that they used to hoist the local ship sails and masts to store during the winters.
Renovation
The church had its last major renovation in 1880 during a time when ancient Norwegian sites were being restored to their former appearance. At Kinsarvik Church, much of the old furniture was removed and the church went back to its medieval feel.
Inside the Church
The church has many unique interior qualities. The first is the large number of cavities that can be found in the church walls. There were used as places to hide valuables, but Kinsarvik Church has an unusually high number. Considering Kinsarvik used to be a Viking settlement, maybe they had to deal with regular raids?
Another important item inside the church is the antemensalet (decorations in front of the altar). The one at Kinsarvik Church is considered one of the most valuable paintings of North European medieval art. It shows the saviour on the cross and the crucifixion, and above the cross is written “Jesus of Nazareth, King of the Jews”. Around the edge is “Neither of God nor man is this image, as you see. But it is an image of both God and man”. The painter was bad at Latin and made several mistakes. The original can be see at the Cultural History Museum in Bergen, but a copy is inside the church.
However, my favourite part of the interior of the church is the artwork on the walls. I’ve been lucky enough to go inside Kinsarvik Church, and I was taken away by the interior artwork. The church used to be whitewashed, but someone scraped away some of the plaster. A piece of painting from the Middle Ages came to light.
The painting on the south wall shows a bishop and is painted from floor to ceiling. Meanwhile, on the north wall, there is the archangel Michael. Underneath is a devil who is trying to tip the scales over to their side with a boat shake.
Michael and the weight of the soul were a common motif in Danish chalk painting in the Middle Ages, but this is the only one of its kind in Norway. I remember the priest telling us that he wished they’d remove it because modern churchgoers don’t exactly want to see a giant devil, but I kind of hope they keep it!
Church Legends
There is a prediction that the church will collapse during a service. This almost happened on the 7th of May 1865, right after Reverend Irgrens had finished his sermon the church began to shake. Cracks in the walls widened and chalk sprinkled down from the walls. People panicked and tried to get out, and some were injured (though not seriously). The pastor then used it to give a speech that no one can escape from Gods will.
Another event that happened here was in December 1793, when a major flood hit the region. At Kinsarvik Church, a large part of the cemetery was washed away by water and the coffins floated out into the fjord. Legend says that the Engel Simonson Ringøy, who died in 1739, floated ashore in his boat dock on Ringøy. The coffins were brought back in and placed under the floor of the church. Under the floor of the choir is a crypt where parish priest Løgit, his wife and children lie.
Visiting Kinsarvik Church
Unfortunately the church is not usually open to the public, but they do host special concerts and events there. Otherwise, it is possible to park by the church and admire it from the outside.
As you can see, Kinsarvik Church is a fascinating historic building that is tucked away in this resort village.
It’s easy to visit here if you are taking the ferry across to Utne – the ferry is about a 1 minute walk from the church. Click here for my article about Utne.
Have you visited the church? Let me know in the comments!
The Rv13 Highway
Kinsarvik is located on the Rv13 highway. You can find my guide to the Rv13 by clicking the link below.
Back in June of 2022 I got the last-minute opportunity to lead a group to Utne in Hardanger. I’ve been to Hardanger many, many times (my husbands family is from Ulvik), but I’d never made the time to take the ferry across to Utne. So, of course, I took the job and off I went with a group of Americans. Boy, was I surprised.
I had read about Utne and knew it was picturesque and charming, but I was surprised by just how lovely it was. We took the ferry across from Kinsarvik and then walked to the Hardanger Folk Museum. After having a guided tour through some of the outdoor buildings, we had lunch and free time to explore before we took the ferry back to Kinsarvik.
You don’t need a guide to do Utne, and you can definitely overnight there. Utne doesn’t get the big tour buses and masses of caravans that other places in Hardanger get, so it almost feels like a well-kept secret being there. The village is very popular with Norwegians, though.
Looking out at Utne from the Folk Museum
Utne is easily one of the most picturesque villages that you’ll find in Hardanger. Unlike many other towns that have succumbed to modernisation and development, Utne has preserved its old streets and wooden houses. It also has some of the most spectacular views out to the Hardangerfjord.
I’ve put together an overview of the highlights of Utne so you can be convinced to add it to your Hardanger road-trip!
Utne is easily accessible by ferry or road (though it does look very isolated on a map!). There is a ferry route linking Utne to both sides of the fjord. One ferry goes from Kinsarvik to Utne, while the other goes from Kvanndal to Utne.
It is possible to drive to Utne via Odda or Jondal, but the roads are narrow and the drive is time consuming. If you can, take a ferry.
Tip – I would strongly recommend leaving your car at the ferry pier and taking the ferry over as just a person. It’s free for people to take the ferry without a car, and Utne is so walkable you don’t need a car.
Utne's History
Being a small village of 146 people, there’s no extensive records of Utne’s history. However, people have lived here for hundreds of years and they relied heavily on the fruit production that came to Hardanger in the 13th century. Utne is regarded as one of the best places to grow fruits, so the villagers relied on production every year to support themselves.
These days Utne is less about fruit production and more about tourism, but fruit production is still extremely important to the area.
Utne Hotel
The first building you’ll see off the ferry is the Utne Hotel. The Utne Hotel is the oldest hotel in continuous operation in Norway, founded in 1722. Part of the hotel is from the 18th century, but a large part has been expanded and added on to. The largest development was in the late 19th century, when the hotel got its characteristic Swiss style of architecture. The last extension was in the 1930s.
What’s fascinating is that the hotel has historically been managed by strong women. One of the old hostesses has earned the nickname ‘Mother Utne’ and she ran the hotel for 70s. She was apparently known all over Europe for her hospitality. There’s a silver wreath in the restaurant dedicated to her.
There are only 17 rooms in the hotel, and each one is unique. It makes it feel extra special and exclusive, but this is also reflected in the price. Rooms go for about 5000 NOK a night.
You can also visit the hotels restaurant and have a meal or take part in their cider tasting.
If you want to stay somewhere a little more budget friendly, try the Hardanger Gjestegård. This historic guesthouse dates from 1898 and feels like a museum inside with its wooden panels and old furniture. It’s located about 10km out of Utne.
The white wooden church just above the hotel is not a historic church; it was built in the late 19th century after the locals wanted to stop taking the boat across to Kinsarvik Church. They had to raise the money to build the church themselves, so it did take some time. The church seats about 300 people. It’s just a few minutes walk from the ferry pier.
Hardanger Folk Museum
The Hardanger Folk Museum is one of the true delights of visiting Utne. The museum is a little hilly, but it’s well worth the climb.
Reconstructed farm
The museum was founded in 1911 and features a reconstruction of a traditional cluster farm. The oldest building is a medieval log house with a central open fire. The museum also has shops, businesses and mini factories from all over Hardanger.
Birch roofingPreserved painting inside one of the farm housesOld beer bowl
Down by the water are some well-preserved boathouses with traditional Hardanger boats.
Hardanger fiddles on display
Meanwhile, the indoor exhibitions focus on Hardanger folk costumes and folk music, in particular the Hardanger fiddle.
Hardanger bunadsHardanger embroidery
Inside you’ll also find a lovely cafe. A special treat about the museum is that they produce their own cider and juice, which is only available from the museum. This also brings me to the next reason to come here…
Apple trees can be seen everywhere!
Incredible Hardanger Fruits
Utne is perfectly situated if you want to try the fruits grown in the Hardanger region. 1km from Utne is Norway’s largest fruit warehouse where plums, apples, pears and other fruits are sorted and packed. The region is also famous for its cider production, and you can buy cider from most farms.
Utne is actually considered one of the best places in Hardanger for fresh fruit, and for many years the village relied on its fruit production.
I am a huge fan of apples from Hardanger, and can never turn down the locally made apple juice. The ciders can be quite sweet, but they are also delicious.
Hike it off!
Utne is surrounded by short and long hikes. Close to the ferry pier you’ll find a map of all the hikes in the area.
Stopping by Norway’s Famous Vøringsfossen Waterfall
Vøringsfossen is arguably the most famous waterfall in Norway. Water drops 182 metes from the Hardangervidda plateau down to the Måbødalen valley. I’ve taken people to the waterfall many times, and I must admit the first few times I didn’t quite understand the appeal of the waterfall. I think there are much nicer waterfalls in Western Norway, such as Tvindefossen. However, as I began to walk more around the viewing platform, I began to realise just how spectacular the valley is.
Here’s a short but useful practical guide to visiting the waterfall and making the most of your time there.
In this article...
The Rv7 Highway
Voringsfossen is located on the Rv7, a major highway between east and west Norway. You can find my guide to the Rv7 by clicking the link below.
The waterfall is located on Måbødalen, or the Måbø Valley. The deep and steep Måbødalen is the result of ice and water having cut into slacker and more open valleys. Remains of the older valley floor are found high up on the steep valley sides. The inner part of the valley is an extreme case of ice carving out the landscape. The deposits around the valley are visible and of great importance.
It is possible to see Vøringsfossen from the bottom of the valley, and you can hike up the valley today.
Discovery of the Waterfall
Vøringsfossen is part of the Bjoreio river in Eidfjord municipality. The amount of water is regulated in connection with power development, and there is a requirement for a minimum water flow during the summer so we are able to actually see the waterfall.
Until 1821, the waterfall was virtually unknown outside of the local community. Professor Christopher Hanseen crossed the plateau to make some astrological observations and while travelling he was stopping to admire the waterfalls. The mountain men carrying his equipment showed him Vøringsfossen and Hansteen was amazed by it. This visit was Vøringsfossen’s breakthrough as a natural attraction.
Cruise ships began coming to the Hardangerfjord region in the 1860s and passengers would be taken by horse to view the waterfall. Eventually a new road was built to make the journey a little easier for the tourists.
The road and tunnel network up the valley
Establishment of the Road
Måbødalen was impassable before 1790, when bridges and a stairway with 1300 steps were constructed for travellers going between east and west Norway via Hardangervidda. The steps were designed only for people accustomed to the mountains. Most of this road is inaccessible today as geological surveys found the road was at high risk of landslides and generally unstable.
The car road was completed in 1916. Today it’s only possible to experience the old road on foot or bicycle. It was the first road connection between Eastern and Western Norway over the Hardangervidda Plateau. It is one of the best examples of road engineering from the early 20th century. The modern car road is from the 1980s and uses a tunnel system to make the drive a little easier. The road is especially exciting when looking at it on Google Maps. There are many nice viewpoints along the way, but I’ve found they get very crowded in summer as people park to go for a hike and the carparks can only fit 5 or so cars.
Fossli Hotel
Fossli Hotel
Fossli Hotel is the building next to Vøringsfossen. The hotel was built in the 1880s by Ola Garen. It is designed in an art nouveau style, and all the materials were transported up the valley by horse. The hotel is a lovely place to stay, though it does look a little dated. However, you won’t be spending much time in the room anyway. The hotel is close to some spectacular hiking and cycling paths, and they have an in-house bar and restaurant. https://www.booking.com/hotel/no/fossli.html
The Viewing Platform at Fossli
From Fossli Hotel, you can walk around the top of the plateau, getting different views as you go. This is where you get the nicest views of the waterfall; there are platforms further down but I believe the ones close to the hotel are the best.
You’ll find maps and information about walking routes outside the carpark.
Maps and trails in the valley
The Footbridge
A new footbridge was built over the waterfall in 2020 to much controversy. It was designed by architect Carl-Viggo Hølmebakk who won an architectural competition. The bridge has a span of 47 metres and has 99 steps. It was heavily criticized for ruining the natural view of Vøringsfossen, and I’m not convinced it has the best views; I’ve found the best views are from near Fossli Hotel.
Practical Information
Getting Here
Vøringsfossen is one of the tops on the Hardanger Tourist Road. It is located just off Highway 7, which runs between Bergen and Oslo via the Hardangervidda Plateau.
Parking
It is possible to park close to the Fossli Hotel. Parking is free.
Hiking
It is possible to hike from near Øvre Eidfjord (the last settlement before Vøringsfossen) up the Måbødalen to the viewpoint at Fossli. The hike is 9.3km and is considered a moderately challenging route, taking around four hours to complete. You can view it here: https://www.alltrails.com/trail/norway/vestland/mabodal-til-voringsfossen
You visit the waterfall as part of the ‘Hardangerfjord in a Nutshell’ day trip from Bergen, which I highly recommend. Click here to learn more about it.
Restrooms
Restrooms are available by the parking lot at Fossli Hotel. Inside the hotel is a café where you can get coffee, tea, waffles and snacks.
Visiting in winter
The waterfall is partially or completely frozen in the winter, making it difficult to see if there’s a lot of snow. If it is snowy, it is not safe to go to the viewpoint at Fossli Hotel because the safety fence can be hidden and it’ll be very slippery.
The Rv7 Highway
Voringsfossen is located on the Rv7, a major highway between east and west Norway. You can find my guide to the Rv7 by clicking the link below.
The drive between Voss and Eidfjord may be short, but it is definitely beautiful. The drive takes you from central Voss down along the old Hardanger Train Line, through a few tunnels, and then into Eidfjord. Eidfjord is located at the end of the Hardangerfjord, and is a popular place to visit for those heading up to Hardangervidda. Along the way you’ll also cross the famous Hardanger Bridge.
In this article...
Watch on Youtube
All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like.
If you’re doing this drive in summer, the detour via Skjervsfossen is very nice. You can stop by the waterfall for some photos. This road is actually the old highway down to Hardanger – if you don’t take the detour, you go through a very long tunnel instead!
We didn’t go past the waterfall on this trip, but we have been there before. The first stop on the road is at the top of the waterfall (middle photo), and you can see the hairpin road and the road across the waterfall (right photo). Once you drive down the road you can stop for a photo of the lower part of the waterfall (left photo).
Granvin Lake
Natural Attraction
We are now driving along Granvin Lake. The lake is 4 sq km (1.56 sq mi) and has tunnels on both sides of it. The old Hardanger Line used to run along the west side of the lake.
Granvin Church
Historic Site
Granvin Church sits on the eastern shore of the lake in a small farm area known as ‘Granvin’. The church was built in 1726 and seats about 300 people. The earliest church was mentioned in 1306, but it was not built in that year. It was likely a wooden stave church. The church was expanded in the 17th century. In 1726, the church was sold to private landowners, who tore it down and replaced it with the current church. The church was sold to the parish in 1857.
Granvin
Village
On this drive we don’t go into Granvin, but if you want a short detour then Granvin is a lovely town. Kjerland Gardsbutikk is located just off Highway 13 and is a great place to buy Hardanger apples, Hardanger cider, or fresh produce.
Hardanger Bridge
Bridge
The Hardanger Bridge is a suspension bridge across the Eidfjorden branch of the Hardangerfjord. It used to be a ferry connection, but this bridge has replaced that and significantly improved the driving time between Bergen and Oslo. It is the longest suspension bridge in Norway.
Construction began on the bridge in 2009 and it officially opened in 2013. The bridge had a budget of 2.3 billion kr (312 million USD) and more than half was to be paid with tolls and saved ferry subsidies.
The bridge is 1,380m (4,530 ft) long with a main span of 1,310m (4,300 ft). The maximum dock height is 55m (180ft) and the towers reach 200m (660ft) above sea level. The largest cruise ships can’t go under the bridge, but smaller ones can. It is one of the longest suspension bridge spans in the world, and it is the longest tunnel-to-tunnel bridge.
When you cross the bridge, you’ll pay a very expensive toll. That’s for paying off the bridge!
Eidfjord Municipality
Eidfjord municipality is located at the end of the Eid Fjord, which is a branch of the Hardangerfjord. The Eid Fjord is 29km (18 mi) long and is the fjord you’re driving along now. 90% of Eidfjord municipality is 900m above sea level; mostly in Hardangervidda. The nature provides the basis for power production, agriculture, hunting, fishing and tourism.
Eidfjord
We have now arrived in Eidfjord! If it’s a summer day, it may be very busy. I’ve had luck parking outside the Joker supermarket, but you can also park a little ways out of the town and walk in.
All the information you need for Eidfjord can be found on the travel guide section of the Hidden North.
All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like.
The river is 2.1km (1.3 mi) long and runs from lake Eidfjord down into the Eid Fjord. We’ll see the Eidfjord Lake soon; it’s a moraine-dammed lake located just outside the village of Eidfjord.
Øvre Eidfjord
Village
Øvre Eidfjord is a small village on the southern end of the Eidfjord Lake. The town has a population of around 200 and it serves as the last major stop before crossing the Hardangervidda Plateau.
Norsk Natursenter
Museum
Øvre Eidfjord is home to the Norsk Natursenter, which is where you can learn about the nature in the area. Technology is used to allow for interactive experiences and learn about the flora and fauna of the area. There’s also a lovely film about the plateau made by Ivo Caprino. If you have the time, I recommend stopping here to learn a little more about Hardangervidda.
Måbødalen
Natural Attraction
Måbødalen is a unique and narrow valley that will take you from Øvre Eidfjord to Hardangervidda. The deep and steep valley is the result of ice and water having cut into the slacker and more open valleys. The valley is studied with regards to its geological process and the interaction between ice and rivers.
The valley was almost impassable before 1790, when bridges were built, and a stairway was completed. The first road was built here in the early 20th century; it opened in 1916 and included three bridges. The road is known for its hairpin turns, and today is only for cyclists and pedestrians. The original road through the valley was the first road between east and west Norway over Hardangervidda.
Luckily for us there is now a new road; the new road is from 1986 and is wider and has many more tunnels.
Johan Christian Dahl painted Måbødalen, a landscape painting that is on display at the KODE art museum in Bergen. It’s pictured above.
Before you get to the more dramatic part of the valley, you’ll pass a small museum about the cultural landscape of Måbødalen.
Vøringsfossen
Natural Attraction
Vøringsfossen is the 83rd highest waterfall in Norway, which itself isn’t an impressive statistic. Rather, it is the setting that makes Vøringsfossen worth seeing. The waterfall has a total drop of 182m (597ft) and is perhaps the most famous waterfall in the country.
The waterfall was hardly known to anyone besides the locals until 1821, when professor Christopher Hansteen estimated the height of the waterfall. He was on his way to Hardangervidda to make astronomical observations at the time. The way he estimated the height was by throwing stones down the edge and measuring the time they took to fall with his pocket watch. He estimated the height to be 280m (920ft); in 1893 the real height was realised by using string.
In 2020, a new pedestrian bridge opened across Vøringsfossen; it was placed in sections by helicopter. The pedestrian bridge has received a lot of criticism, which many describing it as quite ugly.
Fossli Hotel
Hotel
Fossli Hotel is a historic hotel overlooking the Måbø Valley and Vøringsfossen waterfall. The hotel was built by Ola L. Garen (1857 – 1915), who saw the potential of the area and the slow introduction of tourists. Before the hotel, there was only a walking path up the valley with 1,500 stairs. Thanks to the hotel, a new road was built through the valley instead. All the materials to build the hotel had to be carried on horseback from Eidfjord up to the top of the hill. Today the hotel is run by Erik Garen, the great grandson of Ola Garen.
Fossli Hotel is built in the art nouveau style.
The hotel owns a Zimmerman piano where Edvard Grieg composed Norwegian Folk Songs, Opus 66.
Hardangervidda is a well-known mountain plateau that spreads across parts of western, central, eastern, and southern Norway. It is the largest plateau of its kind (peneplain, or eroded plain) in Europe, and it has a cold year-round alpine climate. The highest point is the Sandfloegga, which reaches a height of 1,721m (5,646ft).
The landscape is characterised by barren, treeless, moorland with lakes, rivers, and streams. The western side is rockier, while the eastern side is flatter and more heavily vegetated. The geology is extremely ancient; the rolling fells are remnants of mountains that were worn down by glaciers during the ice ages.
Settlements from the Stone Age have been found in the area. The people who lived here were likely linked to the reindeer migration. Additionally, there are ancient trails across the plateau. Hardangervidda is still a key route between east and west; highway 7 being the way across.
The Hardangervidda Plateau is above the tree line. The alpine climate means that there are arctic animals and plants here further south than anywhere else in Europe. There is a large wild reindeer herd here; it is believed to be the largest in the world with up to 10,000 reindeer.
In 1981 much of Hardangervidda was designated a national park. The Norwegian Mountain Touring Association (DNT) has a network of huts and paths across the plateau. There are two visitor centres: the Norsk Natursenter in Øvre Eidfjord and the Hardanger Nasjonalparksenter, close to Rjukan.
The Star Wars movie, The Empire Strikes Back, was shot on Hardangervidda; the plateau provided the basis for the Hoth sequences.
Sysendammen
Dam
Sysendammen (Sysen Dam) is a rock-filled embankment dam. It holds back Lake Sysen, which is the main reservoir for the Sy-Sima Hydroelectric Power Station. The water supply to Vøringsfossen is regulated by the dam, and there is a requirement for a minimum water supply during the summer.
The dam is 81m (266 ft) high, 1,157m (3,796ft) long and 248m (814ft) wide.
Buskerud (Formerly known as Viken) County
We have crossed into the county that from 2020 – 2022 was known as Viken. At time of writing, the Viken sign was still by the road. This sign may not be up when you drive through; the county was established in 2020 with the merging of three separate counties. However, the three counties were not happy with the decision and in 2021 a parliamentary election saw the parties wanting to dissolve Viken win. On the 23rd of February 2022, a vote of 49 against 38 saw the decision to split Viken finalised. So, in the near future, Viken will be split up again. For purposes of this video, I’ll talk about the county that used to be here and will likely come back: Buskerud.
Buskerud county is a historically important county in Norway. The area around Ringerike was likely a small kingdom and Norway’s kings Olav Tryggvason and Olav Haraldsson grew up in Ringerike.
The first element of the name, buske, refers to ‘bishop’, while the last element means ‘clearing, farm’. Historically, the bishop’s farm was one of the largest in Buskerud and was important during the Reformation. The farm became property of the Danish Crown and served as the residence for the king’s bailiffs until 1668.
Agriculture, lumber, wood-pulp mills, and other related industries are the county’s main economic activities. There is a lot of hydropower thanks to the rivers Begna and Rands. Buskerud also has a large, forested area.
Hol Municipality
Hol is a mountainous municipality that sees 90% of the area over 900m above sea level. The coat-of-arms depicts three silver anvils on a blue background. The anvil was chosen to symbolise the former smithies in the municipality. The municipality was famous for the production of axes, blades and knives, and iron mining took place here in the Viking Age.
Samegammene
Souvenir Shop
Samegammene is a small shop and fur company that began sixty years ago, when Amund Johansen from Northern Norway was forced to sell his reindeer herd after World War II and move south. He took his family with him and settled in Hardangervidda, where he was given the job as a reindeer herder. However, he sustained an injury from that work and decided to focus on tourism instead.
Several ‘gamme’ have been bult around Hardangervidda. A ‘gamme’ is an ancient form of an earth hut, and from these they sell Sami products and souvenirs. Here you will find souvenirs but also handmade fur mittens and hats. The building was owned by the daughter of Amund Johansen until 2017, when she sold it out of the family. The current owners keep the gamme in memory of Amund Johansen.
Haugastøl
Ski Town
Haugastøl is the first town you’ll visit after a while. It is primarily a ski resort with various hotels and cabins. There is also a train station here, Haugastøl station, which is on the Bergen – Oslo Railway.
Haugastøl is one end of the popular Rallarvegen cycling route – it’s an 83km track from Haugastøl to Finse (a town not accessible by road, just train). The road was originally a service road used by workers building the Flåm Railway, but now it is one of the most famous cycling tracks in the country.
Ustaoset
Ski Town
Ustaoset is a small village located on the Bergen to Oslo Railway. The village came to prominence when the railway opened in 1909 as it was a good spot for people to visit to go skiing. Families from Bergen and Oslo built cabins in Ustaoset and used the train as a way to get there. Due to Norway’s strict laws, it is now very difficult to build a new cabin in Ustaoset. Whenever one is up for sale, it is very popular and is often sold very quickly and for a high price.
Ustaoset is mentioned in Jo Nesbø’s book The Leopard; the mountain resort cabins play a key role in the murder mystery.
Geilo
Ski Town
Geilo is the main town in Hol municipality and is one of the most well-known ski resorts in the country. The town is in the Hallingdal valley at roughly the halfway point on the Bergen to Oslo railway.
Geilo is noted for being the first ski resort in Norway and it was built up after the opening of the railway in 1909. The ski season lasts from late October until late April, and there are numerous small ski centres that make up one resort: Geilo Skiheiser. In addition to 39 downhill slopes, there are 220km of cross-country ski tracks.
In the town centre you’ll find some shops, a supermarket, and a few restaurants. Around 2,500 people live in Geilo all year round, so there is a school, cinema, library and police station.
Hagafoss
Village
Hagafoss is a small village in the upper part of the Hallingdal valley. It is located on the main highway between Bergen and Oslo, but here we take the Fv50 (Norwegian county road 50) towards Aurland.
Hol Gamle Kyrkje
Historic Site
Hol Gamle Kyrkje is a 13th century church in Hol municipality. The church was originally a small stave church but has been rebuilt multiple times. The last time it was rebuilt was in 1939, and today it doesn’t have the design that makes it a stave church. It’s believed the floors of the church are the original staves from the stave church. The church is also known for the fact that it has a gutter in the apse.
Vestland County
We have crossed back into Western Norway!
Aurland Municipality
Aurland is a municipality in Western Norway that includes the popular villages of Aurland, Flåm, Undredal and Gudvangen. It is also home to the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Naerøyfjord.
People settled here around 2,000 years ago to farm the area, and agriculture is still important in Aurland. Tourism began coming here in the mid-19th century, primarily from England. They took part in sport fishing and hunting.
The coat-of-arms depict a goat’s head; a goat is a symbol of the municipality because of their historic production and importance of goats cheese and goat farming.
Aurland Valley
Natural Attraction
Aurlandsdalen is a 40km (25 mi) long valley that was carved out by glaciers.
Aurlandsdalen represents some of the most beautiful and magnificent in Norwegian nature. The valley has been an important trade and traffic road from the ancient times and was probably in use from the early Viking Age. The route was the shortest route between western and eastern Norway in pre-historic times. There are a number of very old farms in the valley that were permanently inhabited until the turn of the 20th century. There are also mountain dairy farms here (called ‘støls’) that can be spotted high on the mountains.
The rare mountain flower “mountain queen” can be found in the valley. There are almost 500 plant varieties here. The soil is very rich in minerals formed from phyllitt in the rocks.
Today many use Aurlandsdalen as a popular day hike (6-7 hours), or you can hike all the way to Finse in 3-4 days. It is one of the best-known tourist tracks in Norway
As we went down, you saw the huge powerlines. The Aurland river system was developed in the 1970s for power production. The environmental impacts of hydroelectric development are notable; the great waterfalls have been substantially reduced. With the introduction of the tunnels, the water level in the river gorges has been drastically reduced. The Aurlands River is now no longer one of the finest salmon rivers in Norway. Farmers no longer drive cattle, pigs and goats to spend the summer at the old farms. The valley has been characterised, like many other valleys, by gradual urbanisation.
Aurland
Village
Aurland is a small village with a population of around 800. The village is the location of the Aurland Shoe Factory, where the famous penny loafers were first made. Another interesting place to visit in Aurland is the Vangen Church, a historic stone church from 1202.
Aurlandsfjord
Fjord
The Aurlandsfjord is a 29km (18 mi) long fjord and is a branch of the Sognefjord, the longest fjord in Norway. The fjord is deep and narrow, generally reaching less than 2km (1.2 mi) wide. Most of the mountains are up to 1800m (5,900ft) tall.
Flåm
We have arrived at Flåm, our final destination for this drive. Flåm is a small population with around 300 people, but is one of the most visited places in Norway thanks to the Flåm Railway.
Røldal Stave Church is a special church. With its position on the edge of three counties and the road between east and west, Røldal has welcomed travellers for thousands of years. The stave church became an important pilgrimage site (the second-most important after Nidaros Cathedral) for these travellers. After all, the crucifix that has hung in the church for 1000 years was known to have healing powers.
I got to visit the Røldal Stave Church in September 2020. While the inside was closed, the outside is as beautiful. While churches in Norway can blend into one another, each one stands out for its story. I’ve put together an overview of the history of this church so you can see why it’s so special to visit.
In this article...
The E134 Highway
Røldal Stave Church is located along the E134, a major highway between east and west Norway. You can find my guide for the E134 by clicking the link below.
The Røldal Stave Church dates back to around 1250 and the architect is unknown. Like many stave churches, Røldal Stave Church has changed in appearance since its construction. Originally, the church was a singular room, but it has since received a bell tower and choir out the back.
The church before the last renovations between 1915 and 1918 (Source)
The first major renovation took place after the Reformation in the 16th century. Inside the church, Lutheran decorations replaced Catholic ones. Further renovations took place in 1884 when the stone floor was removed and sold at an auction. The last renovations were in 1915-1918, giving the church its current appearance. Removing the 19th-century panelling revealed the Renaissance interior. A new gallery protects the walls and a new foundation wall is under the church. It’s likely the old cultural layers of the church are still under the main room (ship).
As mentioned above, Røldal Stave Church is famous for its crucifix. This crucifix isn’t any crucifix; it has healing powers.
Legend has it that a blind man found the crucifix while fishing. He caught something heavy, and when he raised it a Christ picture appeared in the sea. They tried to lift it into the boat, but it was too heavy. The man struggled for so long that swear pored from his brow into his eyes. He had to let go and wipe his eyes – he then suddenly had his sight restored! He understood a miracle happened to him and resumed struggling to get the Christ, vowing to donate it to a church. Only when he mentioned Røldal Church did the crucifix lighten and he was able to lift it. He rowed to shore and gifted it to the church.
It’s said that every Midsummer Eve the church sweat, and this sweat could heal the ill. When Lutheran became the main religion, attempts to stop this ‘cult worship’ became common. Worshipping icons in the Lutheran religion is idolatry and forbidden by the church.
Even so, mass took place every Midsummer Eve. This lasted until 1835, when the Provost Ole Nicolai Løberg visited Røldal, saw what was happening, and forbid it. Still, pilgrims continued to visit the crucifix until 1850, when the practice ended.
Today, the crucifix is the only surviving cult object in Norway’s pilgrim churches.
The church is a votive church, meaning that it received large donations from the pilgrims. The small village became very prosperous and grew quickly.
Sadly, most of the interior decoration is now in the Bergen Museum. This includes wooden sculptures of St. Olav and Mary and Baby Jesus from around 1250, and the archangel Michael from around 1200. Yet, the crucifix is still located in the church.
The church has staves, but they are only in the corners. Most stave churches have a raised central space, making the staves much more visible. The baptismal font is soapstone and dates back to around the time the church was built, as is the crucifix. The altarpiece is from Lutheran times, around 1629.
Legend has it there was a cod backbone on the wall for some time. The story goes that two men were fishing in the Røldal Lake, which is freshwater and has no cod. One of the men, who were not from the village, said: “Røldal Church is no more a healing church than there is no cod in Røldal Lake!” Soon after, his fishing line began pulling, and he pulled up a cod! The backbone hung in the church for some time. I love a good legend, whether there is much truth to it.
Is it a stave church?
During the renovations in 1844, questions arose about the construction of the church. The building method differs from other stave churches. An investigation into the construction method took place. The resulting opinion is that the church may not be a stave church. Some believe that the church is a post church; the predecessor of the stave church. When categorising the church, it is like the Møre-type stave churches.
Detailing around the main door
Architecture
The church is a rectangular-shaped nave and chancel with a saddle over the roof. There are similarities to Finnesloftet in Voss, one of the oldest buildings in Norway. Unlike stave churches, Røldal Stave Church does not have a decorated panel. Furthermore – it is one of few stave churches to rest on a stone foundation.
Memorial outside the church
Outside the church is a memorial stone commemorating the people from Røldal who helped in the fight for freedom independence from Sweden in 1905.
Visiting the church
Røldal Stave Church is located 44 mins (42km / 26 miles) from Odda and 5 mins (4.1km / 2.6 miles) from the Ryfylke Scenic Road/Horda.
It is possible to take a public bus from Odda. From the stop Røldalsvegen ved gågata in Odda downtown take the number 930 bus towards Odda-Seljestad vekt for 16 stops / 36 minutes until you reach Seljestad vektstasjon. From there, take the bus number NW180 towards Oslo Bus Terminal for three stops (20 mins) until you reach Bruleitet. It’s then a 6 minute walk to the church. It’s worth noting that the second bus is a regional bus and therefore does not run regularly, so you really have to plan your time.
Parking is free and in front of the church. There are toilets on the property, but they are only open during the summer
The E134 Highway
Røldal Stave Church is located along the E134, a major highway between east and west Norway. You can find my guide for the E134 by clicking the link below.
I think one of the best ways to see Norway is by car. It may seem a little intimidating at first, with all those mountain roads, ferries, tolls, and crazy expensive petrol. But if you plan accordingly and have the budget for it, you’ll get to see the best bits of nature. And one of the best things to do is driving from Bergen to the Hardangerfjord.
There are two ways to get to the Hardangerfjord from Bergen: the Hardanger Scenic Route and the main highway to Granvin through Voss. The Hardanger Scenic Route certainly sounds appealing, but if narrow fjord-side roads make you nervous, or you’re short on time, the main highway is an excellent alternative.
(click the image to see it larger)
I’ve done both ways so many times; my family is from the innermost part of the Hardangerfjord so we always try to make a day of it when we are going to the farm. Also, it’s common to do day tours to Hardanger from Bergen.
For my overview, I’ve used Granvin as the end-point. It’s not really famous for anything; it’s a crossroads. From Granvin you can head to Ulvik, Eidfjord, Utne and Odda: four very popular places to spend the night. The advantages of each of them:
The Hardanger Bridge, which you take to Eidfjord and Odda
Where to Stay in Hardanger
Ulvik:
The famous Brakanes Hotel is a good option for the night
Ulvik has the apple cider route, where you can visit farms and try their produce
Eidfjord:
Leads up to the famous Vøringsfossen and then the scenic road over the Hardangervidda National Park down to Oslo
Hardanger Nature Centre is located here
Beware – major cruise port!
Utne:
Incredibly scenic with a historic hotel
The Hardanger Scenic Route continues on this side of the fjord
Odda:
The Ullensvang Hotel is a historic hotel
The popular hike to Troll Tongue starts at Tyssedal
Folgefonna National Park
If you are doing this as a day-trip from Bergen and back, it’s very easy to do both roads in one day.
Anyway, here’s my overview of what you see when driving from Bergen to the Hardangerfjord.
The Hardanger Scenic Route
The Practical Info
Distance from Bergen to Granvin: 127km / 79.1 miles Time from Bergen to Granvin: 2 hours 9 minutes (not including stops) Toll Cost: 100 NOK [mfn]https://www.fjellinjen.no/private/toll-calculator/[/mfn] Open All Year? Yes.
The turn-off to the Hardanger Scenic Route is located at a roundabout in Trengereid. Here’s what you can see, stop at, and experience as you head towards Granvin:
Ådland Church
Ådland Church is a historic church located just outside Samnanger community. A church as stood on this site since the 12th century and the first church was likely a stave church. A new church was built here in 1652 and then it was replaced in 1851 by the church you see today.
The church is used for weddings, baptisms, confirmations and service takes place every other Sunday.
Samnanger
Samnanger is a small village around 20km (12 miles) from Bergen, though the drive is considerably longer thanks to the mountains. It is separated from Bergen thanks to Gullfjellet, the tallest mountain in the municipality. The village grew in the early 20th century thanks to the construction of hydroelectric power plants in the area.
The body of water you’ll see here is the Samnangerfjord, which is 22km (14 miles) long and forms the southern boundary of the Bergen peninsula.
Facilities: Grocery stores (SPAR and Kiwi Bjørkheim) Cafe/Kro (MIX) Petrol Station
Mørkhølsfossen
Mørkhølsfossen is a waterfall located alongside the road. There’s a place to park the car and go for a short 400m walk along the river.
Facilities: Rest stop
Fossen Bratte
Fossen Bratte is a more well-known waterfall along the Hardanger Scenic Road. The waterfall is 80m long.
During World War II, the valley was the scene of fighting when the Germans were making their way inland. There was a barrier position put up in the bend in the road where the waterfall throws itself out. If you walk to the top of the waterfall (there is a path), you’ll see a cannon and some signage commemorating the Norwegians who lost their lives here from this fighting.
If you walk to the bottom of the waterfall, which again is on a path, you’ll come to another memorial. In 1951, a married couple were on their honeymoon when they drove off the road here. The waterfall is nicknamed the ‘bridal veil’ and many think it’s from that, but the nickname has been used since the early 20th century.
This is a very popular stop and the carpark is tiny.
Facilities: Restrooms Car parking
Eikedalen
Once you’re on the other side of the tunnel after Fossen Bratte, you’ll see many, many cabins on the hillside. This is the area known as Eikedalen and Kvamskogen, and it’s a popular ski area for the Bergen locals.
Eikedalen is the name of the ski centre that is soon on your left. It has the 10th longest chairlift in Northern Europe at a length of 1800m. The highest peak is Grøtet, which is 918m above sea level. In total, Eikedalen has a total of seven ski lifts with 12 slopes.
Kvamskogen
Kvamskogen is the name of the mountain plateau and region. In total, there are over 1700 cabins in this area; the third-highest concentration of cabins in the country.
Historically, this was a mountain pasture of the farmers from Steinsdalen (where Steindalsfossen is). The farmers used the area to cut grass that would then be brought home by horses in the winter. Much of the wood the farmers needed was also here.
The road you’re on was the main road between Bergen and Eastern Norway in 1907. From the post-war period onwards, the drive was increasingly difficult due to the number of parked cars on Kvamskogen. Even though the road has been widened and carparks added, it can still sometimes take a long time to pass through here.
The Old Highways
Once past Kvamskogen, the road has four tunnels as you make your way down to Steinsdalen (Stein Valley or ‘Rock Valley’). These four tunnels were built in the 1950s after the old highway was becoming increasingly dangerous.
As you drive through the tunnels, there are openings on the side that shows the old road. The old road was built between 1903 and 1907, with large sections built by hand while workers hung from ropes. The rock in the mountain is ‘junk rock’ and is slowly breaking apart, meaning, there were lots of rockslides on the road. This is why the tunnels were built.
After the last tunnel, there is a parking area to the right. However, when I stopped there recently the rock was crumbling under the carpark and the fence was almost hanging off the side. Not the safest spot to stop.
Steinsdalsfossen
This is one of the most famous waterfalls in Norway. You are able to walk behind the waterfall without (mostly) getting wet. It is at its most full in May-June when the snow is melting. The drop of the waterfall is 20m.
Facilities: Toilets (closed October – May) Souvenir shops (two of them!) Coffee and snacks Information boards
Norheimsund
Norheimsund is a small town with a settlement of 4,399 inhabitants. It is the shopping hub for the outer Hardanger region and has plenty of shops and facilities. Norheimsund is also a traffic hub. From here, you can take a ferry to Utne and Odda, or take a bus to Bergen, Voss, Vikøy, Tørvikbygd, Jondal, Strandebarm and Kvinnherad.
The town centre of Norheimsund was destroyed by a fire in 1932 and has been rebuilt in a functionalist architecture, so it’s not the most beautiful place. During World War II, the occupying forces had a large training camp in Norheimsund and defence installations were built against the fjord.
The Hardanger Maritime Centre is a foundation that restores and protects different types of boats. It’s possible to visit the area during the summer season.
Facilities Hotels (Thon Hoten Sandven) Shopping Mall (Straumen Senter) Grocery stores Sporting goods store Pubs, restaurants, cafes ATM Hardanger Maritime Museum & Maritime Centre Emergency room Petrol station
Øystese
Øystese is a small town just 7km (4 miles) from Norheimsund. The town is on the up and up, with a brand-new Hardangerfjord Hotel and Spa built alongside the fjord.
There’s a quirky sculpture museum here with the works of Ingebrigt Vik. The building looks like it shouldn’t be in a small Norwegian village.
Øystese itself is known for its furniture production, especially in tables. There’s also a printing press here, dairy factories and shops. The church was built in 1868 and is a typical 19th century church.
Facilities Hotels (Hardangerfjord Hotel) Grocery stores Electronics shop Cafes/restaurants Pharmacy Petrol station Art House Kabuso Hardanger SkySpace
Fyksesund Bridge
Shortly after leaving Øystese you’ll cross the Fyksesund Bridge. It is 344m long with a span of 230m. It was opened by Crown Prince Olav on 9 Octobe 1937 and at the time it was Northern Europe’s longest suspension bridge.
The fish farm on a gorgeous spring day
Hardanger Akvasenter
Immediately after the bridge is the Hardanger Akvasenter, an active fish farm that you are able to visit. The main display centre/museum is in Øystese, but if you book ahead you can have a tour of the fish farm. At the fish farm you’ll learn about how salmon farming works. The fish farm is owned by Lingalaks AS, which is responsible for the fish production in the area. It’s a family owned company that today has about 2.5 million fish in their farms and employs 40 people. If you stay at the Hardangerfjord Hotel, you can taste the salmon there.
The view from the top of the farm
Steinstø Farm
Steinstø Fruitfarm has been owned by the same family for nine generations. If you visit the farm, you can learn about how the farm is run and how it was run in the past. There’s a shop by the road that sells fruits and berries as well as homemade apple juice, homemade jam, jellies, lefse, apple cake and souvenirs. There’s also a small café where you can have coffee and cake. Restrooms are under the building.
In any case, it is possible to book a visit to the farm, but it’s often reserved for groups.
Steinstø has become very popular in recent years, so if you’re visiting in summer you may see a couple tour buses parked out the front.
Facilities Cafe Restrooms Shop
Note: Their opening hours vary quite a lot throughout the year. Check the website/Facebook page before going:
The rest area is an idyllic spot with a view over the Hardangerfjord. On a clear day, you can see the Folgefonna glacier. The area is built on two levels.
Facilities Toilets Picnic/BBQ Information board
Ålvik
Ålvik is a small town that is known throughout Norway for its industrial site. A factory was built here at the beginning of the 20th century to take advantage of the hydroelectric power from the Bjølvo waterfalls. The factory was completed in 1919, producing calcium carbide for a time. The villages population rose from 75 to 500 following the opening of the factory. In the 1920s, the company was given major sales contracts for ferrosilicon to the British steel industry. A production line for ferrochrome was established in 1934.
The road connection to Bergen was added in 1937.
The plant made Ålvik the most polluted place on the Hardangerfjord and at times the whole town could be covered in smog. Government environmental regulations put pressure on the company, and ferrochrome production ended in 1979. Ferrosilicon was prioritised to comply with environmental standards and furnaces were rebuilt, making it possible to recycle excess heat.
Stopping for photos somewhere near Ålvik. Photo taken in April.
The factory is still the village’s main employer. It is now a subsidary of Elkem, which is owned by China National Bluestar. Today the factory recycles waste from aluminium production. The hydropower plant is now owned by Statkraft.
The Ålvik Industrial Worker’s Museum documents the village’s labour heritage through the exposition of two restored workers apartments typical to the 1920s and 1950.
Today Ålvik has a primary school, kindergarten, nursing home, church, library, several artists and plenty of hiking trails.
Granvin
You’ll drive alongside the Granvinfjord before you make it to Granvin, and this part of the drive is especially narrow! The Granvinfjord is 10km (6.2 miles) long and less than 1km wide. At the end of the fjord you can see the lumber and wood products industry, which in 2019 accounted for 80% of all industry-related employment in the area. Granvin is home to one of Norway’s few spruce forests.
The name Granvin comes from an old farm that used to stand here. The coat-of-arms is the Hardanger Fiddle, which is representative of the folk tradition of the region.
During World War II, there was some fighting between German and Norwegian forces here. Germans landed in Granvin on the 25th of April as part of their movement towards the military camps at Voss. Four Norwegians and at least 30 Germans fell during the fighting. The population has decreased significantly since the war. 29% of the population here commute to Voss for work.
Granvin is an agricultural area characterised by livestock, mainly sheep. There’s a fantastic shop you should visit – Kjerland Gardsbutikk – where you can look at and buy produce from all the surrounding farms.
Facilities: Rental homes Grocery stores Charging station for electric cars Kjerland Gardsbutikk
The Highway Through Voss
Here’s option two! Driving from Bergen to the Hardangerfjord through Voss is a great option ff you’re short on time or don’t want to drive on narrow roads.
The Practical Info
Distance from Bergen to Granvin: 129km / 80.4 miles Time from Bergen to Granvin: 1 hour 52 minutes (not including stops) Toll Cost: 72 NOK [mfn]https://www.fjellinjen.no/private/toll-calculator/[/mfn] Open All Year? Yes.
The village as seen from the Hananipa hike I did a while back
Vaksdal
This will be the first point of interest after going through Trengereid. Vaksdal is a small community known for the Vaksdal Mill, which was established in the late 19th century using power from the nearby waterfalls. The waterfall was first utilised with mechanical transmission of power to the mill machines. Vaksdal Mill was once the largest mill plant in Northern Europe. During World War II, there was heavy fighting in Vaksdal between the 19th and 23rd of April. Three Norwegian soldiers and one civilian and a larger, but unknown, number of German soldiers fell in Vaksdal.
Dale
If you love knitwear, you’ll love Dale! This small village is famous for Dale of Norway, a Norwegian knitwear brand. The business was established in 1872, when industrialist Peter Jebsen (1824 – 1892, you can see his house on my Årstad walk) first established a textile factory in Dale. After World War II, the factory developed exports of its knitted sweaters. Since 1956, Dale of Norway has designed and produced official Olympic and World Championship sweaters for the Norwegian National Alpine Ski Team. They were also later chosen to design the official sweaters for the Winter Olympic Games through the IOC, with rights to use the Olympic symbols.
It’s possible to visit the Dale of Norway factory. If you plan ahead you can take a guided tour. If you just show up, there’s a great outlet store!
Dale has a small church, the Dale Church, which dates to 1956 and can be seen from the road.
Facilities Roadside Cafe Petrol station (shell) Dale of Norway Factory Outlet and Museum Grocery Stores (Coop Extra, SPAR)
Bolstadøyri
Bolstadøyri is a historic spot on the old route between Voss and Bergen. Before the train link was built, transfer between the two was by horse and boat. This is where the boat journey started.
Evanger
Evanger is a traditional West Norwegian village. The village was destroyed by a fire on the 10th of April 1923 and was rebuilt exactly how we see it today. Because of this, Evanger town centre has been regulated as a special area of protection as a culturally and historically valuable building environment. Evanger Church escaped the fire and was built in 1851.
After that, outside the courthouse is a monument to Knute Nelson, who was born here and emigrated to the United States in 1849. He became a lawyer and politician and was for many years a senator for Minnesota.
Evanger is famous in Norway for its cured meats. There are several companies here that specialise in the production of traditional food.
Facilities BnB Grocery store (Landhandleri)
The Voss River
The Voss River is a famous salmon river. When tourism was growing in the 19th century, English ‘salmon lords’ would travel here to catch some top-notch Norwegian salmon. The biggest salmon to be caught here was 32kg! In the last few decades, the salmon population has declined due to pollution, disease and other unknown factors.
Voss
Welcome to Voss! There’s a lot to do in Voss, and you could easily spend a night here.
According to legend, the people of Voss were forcibly converted to Christianity by King Olav, who later became Saint Olav. There’s a stone cross located by the lake that is said to have been erected at this time.
The Voss Church is built on the site of an old pagan temple. The church was built in 1277 under the instruction of King Magnus the Lawmender and it is one of the few buildings that survived the bombing of World War II.
When Germany invaded Norway on the 9th of April 1940, Voss was the main point of mobilisation for the Norwegian Army in the West since Bergen had fallen. To break down the resistance, the Luftwaffe bombed Voss on the 23rd and 24th of April and then the surrounding countryside on the 25th of April. Nine people lost their lives and the bombings completely destroyed the wood-built town centre. You’ll notice Voss has a very concrete look today; it was rebuilt cheaply during and after the war.
Voss is known far and wide for its extreme sports. You can do skiing, water sports, skydiving, paragliding and other adventure sports here. The brand-new Voss gondola opened in 2020 and it’s used for tourists or for hikers and skiers.
Facilities All the facilities of a mid-size town (groceries, shopping, ATM, petrol station, cafes and restaurants, etc) Toilets available at the train station Voss Gondola Hotels (Fleischer’s Hotel, Park Hotel, the brand-new Scandic Hotel) Voss Folk Museum
Skjervsfossen
Around half-way between Granvin and Voss is Skjervsfossen. Take the detour road off the main highway for this incredible sight. It’s possible to park at the top and the bottom of the waterfall and well-worth it. There’s a network of paths and stairs so you can walk around the waterfall and surrounding area.
The historic route is called ‘Skjervet’ and forms the old highway.
Facilities Toilets (closed October-May) Picnic/BBQ Information board about the area
Granvin Church
Shortly before arriving in Granvin you’ll pass the Granvin Church, which was built in 1726 and represents a typical example of an 18th century church building. In 2012 the church was listed for preservation as a culturally and historically important example of the richness of decoration in early 18th century churches.
Scenic Detour to Ulvik
If you’re planning to go to Ulvik, there’s a scenic road you can take over the mountain (rather than going along the fjord). It begins in Granvin (there’s a sign for the turn-off) and you can stop at a viewpoint overlooking Ulvik on the way back down. The road also passed the apple cider route in Ulvik.
Driving from Bergen to the Hardangerfjord
In conclusion, I hope this article has given you some ideas about how to drive from Bergen to the Hardangerfjord. In any case, there are no losers. Both drives are incredibly scenic and have unique attractions.
If you have any comments or suggestions please mention them below!
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