Åndalsnes

  • Ålesund, Åndalsnes, Dombås, European Highways, Road-trips

    Drive it Yourself: Dombås to Ålesund via Åndalsnes on the E136

    Drive it Yourself: Dombås to Ålesund via Åndalsnes on the E136

    Here’s my guide to the drive from Dombås to Ålesund on the E136. In June 2023 Sean and I decided to take advantage of a sunny weekend and head out to the fjords for a road-trip. I have only ever driving along Trollveggen once, and I vaguely remembered it. However, I had heard over and over again how beautiful it was and realised this was the perfect chance to see the mountains. The drive is short but so beautiful and a great thing to do before climbing up Trollstigen. 

    In this article...

    Download this Guide

    All of our guides can be downloaded via our online store. 

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

    View on Store

    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Information about facilities along the way

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the region & towns
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Facilities including supermarkets, toilets, petrol, hotels, cafes, restaurants with addresses.

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    Visit Our YouTube Channel

    Dombås to Ålesund on the E136

    Dombås Travel Guide

    This drive begins in Dombås, an important transportation hub. You can read about Dombås on our travel guide below. 

    Dombås Travel Guide

    E136

    Highway

    The E136 highway goes between Ålesund and Dombås, connecting the coastal city with the E6 highway that runs through Norway. The E136 is the main road running between Eastern Norway and the Ålesund/Molde region.

    The old road was, in historic times, an important road for the farmers of the northern part of the Gudbrandsdalen valley and the surrounding mountain villages. They would use the road to get access to the sea, where they could buy items like salt.

    This was one of the first roads between Eastern and Western Norway to be paved as a driving road. Old stations still exist along the road where those travelling in carriages would stop to rest.

    The road runs parallel to the Rauma Railway, a scenic train. Construction for the railway began in 1912 and it was open in 1924. The railway is today mostly a scenic train.

    Lesja Municipality

    Lesja is a mountainous municipality located in the traditional Gudbrandsdalen region. Most of the municipality is above 900m above sea level. The main industry here is agriculture, employing around 30% of the population.

    Rauma Valley

    Valley

    The Romsdalen valley is one of the most spectacular valleys in Norway. Large parts of the valley are narrow and run between high alpine mountains. The valley floor rises from the Romsdalsfjorden and the Rauma river runs through the valley.

    Lesjaverk

    Valley

    Lesjaverk is a small village located at 633m above sea level. In 1659, an ironworks was established here. The mines had a very uneven supply of ore and business here was never stable. However, the iron ore was of very good quality due to the amount of chromium in the ore. The ironworks closed in 1812 as the operation was of never any great importance. Remnants of the mine exist around the village.

    Bjorli

    Village

    Bjorli is a small village that is popular for skiing, with the Bjorli Ski Centre being located here. The area has stable snow conditions and a long ski season. Bjorli is also a good base for the Dovrefjell-Sunndalsfjella National Park. One scene in ‘Harry Potter and the Half-Blood Prince’ was filmed in this area because of its unique mountainous terrain.

    Møre og Romsdal County

    Rauma Municipality

    Rauma municipality is known for its incredible diversity of nature. In the outer parts, the mountains are low and the slopes are gentler. In the inner parts, the slopes are steeper and many mountains have vertical walls. The highest mountain is Pyttegga, at 1999m above sea level.

    Agriculture has traditionally been the most important industry in Rauma, but the number of farms has been greatly reduced since the last half of the 20th century. In the mid-19th century the area became industrialised with textiles factories, and Rauma wool was established in 1927. Today tourism is an important industry.

    Trollveggen

    Mountain Wall

    You are now beginning your drive along Trollveggen, the ‘Troll Wall’ in English. It is Europe’s highest vertical cliff and is approximately 1,700 metres high, with around a 1,000 metre vertical drop. The area has been popular with climbers since the 1960s.

    Kors Kirke

    Church

    Soon we will pass Kors Kirke on the right. This church is from 1797 but was moved from its original location to here in 1902. There has been a church in the valley since the 15th century.

    Trollveggen Visitor Centre

    Trollveggen Visitor Centre is located close to the start of the Trollstigen Tourist Road. Here you’ll find restrooms, a cafeteria and a souvenir shop. There is also some information about Trollveggen and the surrounding area. 

    Trollstigen Tourist Road

    Shortly before arriving at Åndalsnes, you’ll pass the turn-off to the Trollstigen Tourist Road, one of Norway’s 18 national tourist roads. It is a lengthy detour, but is well worth doing!

    Trollstigen Tourist Road

    Åndalsnes

    Åndalsnes is a scenic fjord-side town with all the major facilities you need during a road-trip. It is also am excellent place to stay if you want to break up the drive. 

    Åndalsnes Travel Guide

    Veblungsnes

    Village

    Veblungsnes is a small village just across the river from Åndalsnes. It is a historic farm that has existed for hundreds of years. In the last 200 years it has developed into a village. The Rauma wool company is located here. The local church, Grytten Church, is from 1829.

    After passing through the village, you’ll go through the 6.5km-long Innfjord Tunnel. 

    Innfjorden

    Village

    Innfjorden is a small village located within Rauma municipality. The village is primarily agricultural. The Innfjorden fjord that the village sits along is a branch of the Romsdalsfjorden.

    Vestnes Municipality

    Vestnes is a mountainous municipality that is mentioned in the Norse sagas, when a chieftain lived here. The municipality is divided into three by two fjords. The main industry here is agriculture, with some maritime industry and boat building.

    Vikebukt

    Village

    Vikebukt is a small village with around 650 people living here. The larger town of Molde is located just across the fjord, but a ferry is needed to get across there. The village has been inhabited since the Viking Age, and today a number of burial mounds can be found throughout the area.

    After driving through Vikebukt you cross the Tresfjordbrua Bridge. 

    Vestnes

    Village

    Vestnes village is located on the shore of the Tresfjorden, which is a branch of the Romsdalsfjord. It is the administrative centre for the municipality. This is also where the E39 merges with the E136, which you have been travelling on so far. From Vestnes it is possible to take a ferry across to Molde.

    Ålesund Municipality

    Ålesund

    Ålesund is one of the larger towns along the west Norwegian coast. It is most famous for its Art Nouveau architecture and modern fishing industry. Read our guide to Ålesund below. 

    Ålesund Travel Guide

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

    Previous Drive

    Lom to Dombås

    See the previous day’s drive from Lom to Dombås via Highway 15 and the E6. 

    Lom to Dombås

    Next Drive

    Trollstigen Tourist Road

    On the next drive, we take the Trollstigen Tourist Road from Åndalsnes across to Geiranger. 

    Trollstigen Tourist Road
  • Åndalsnes, Geiranger, National Tourist Roads, Road-trips

    Drive it Yourself: Åndalsnes to Geiranger via the Trollstigen Tourist Road

    Drive it Yourself: Åndalsnes to Geiranger via the Trollstigen Tourist Road

    Trollstigen is arguably the most famous of the 18 national tourist roads in Norway. Beginning just outside Åndalsnes in north-western Norway, the road twists and turns up the mountains, across the fjord, and then down to UNESCO World-Heritage-listed Geiranger. The views are incredible, the road is a little nerve-wrecking, but it’s well worth doing.

    You’ve probably seen something like the image above. Trollstigen has been featured countless times on television programs – especially those about cars – and every guidebook will include a picture of it. The road is slightly terrifying, difficult, and not for the inexperienced. However, get to the top and you will be rewarded!

    I got to do the Trollstigen National Tourist Road last September. The weather was miserable and we didn’t see anything, but that didn’t change my opinion of the road. I’m glad I didn’t do it in the middle of summer – the traffic looks like a nightmare. Here’s an overview of everything you can see and do on the road between Åndalsnes and Geiranger. 

    In this article...

    Download this Guide

    All of our guides can be downloaded via our online store. 

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

    View at the Store

    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Information about facilities along the way

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the region & towns
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Facilities including supermarkets, toilets, petrol, hotels, cafes, restaurants with addresses.

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    Visit Our YouTube Channel

    IMPORTANT: TROLLSTIGEN CLOSED

    Please note that Trollstigen Tourist Road is closed for 2024 due to concerns over rockslides and subsequent safety issues. It is possible to visit the visitor centre and viewpoint at the top, but you must come from the southern (Valldal) side. It is not possible to drive on the Trollstigen switchback road. 

    The Drive: Åndalsnes to Geiranger

    Åndalsnes

    This drive begins in Åndalsnes, which is a popular place to stay for those who love outdoor activities. You can learn more about Åndalsnes via the button below. 

    Åndalsnes Travel Guide

    Troll Wall (Trollveggen)

    Mountain Range

    If you continue past the turn for Trollstigen, you’ll be driving along Trollveggen.

    Trollveggen is the tallest vertical rock face in Europe, about 1100m (3600ft) from its base to the summit ridge of the highest point. The wall is popular with skiers and mountain climbers.

    The drive along the E134 provides excellent views of Trollveggen, though the best views are achieved by hiking. 

    If you want to see the whole of Trollveggen, drive to Dombås and back again. One way is 104km (90 minutes), so it is a day trip. Otherwise, you might be coming from Oslo and do the drive from Dombås into Åndalsnes anyway.

     

    Rauma River

    River

    The Rauma river is a 68km (42 mi) long river that runs through Romsdalen, the valley you drive through for Trollveggen. The river used to be famous for salmon fishing, but since an infection, only 5-10% of the stock survives.

    The Rauma River is regarded as one of the most beautiful in Norway. It has a natural green tint from melting ice. The mountains on either side are 1500m – 1800m (4900ft to 5900ft) high.

    Isterdalen

    Valley

    We are in the valley called Isterdalen. It is a distinct U-shaped valley with a steep end point: this is where Trollstigen is. The valley is cultivated for agricultural purposes.

    When driving through the valley, keep an eye out for the famous mountains “Queen”, “King” and “Bishop” on the west side of the valley.

    Trollstigen Resort

    Accommodation

    This quirky cabin rental and camping ground has some – unique? – troll statues you can stop to take photos of. They also have a shop with food and drinks, plus some restrooms.

    Besides the trolls, it’s worth stopping here to look at the maps of the surrounding area. 

    Trollstigen

    Historic Overview

    The road is very old. The market near Åndalsnes began in 1533, and the road was used as the main crossing over the mountain. A text in 1766 says that the mountain road was inspected annually and continuously.

    Around the turn of the 20th century, the road was widened to allow for riding: it was around 1.5m wide. Discussion began for modernising the road and allowing access for wider vehicles. The Armed Forces was interested in the construction of the road for the sake of mobilisation and exercises in connection with a nearby military camp. Additionally, the opening of the Rauma Line provided subsidies for the construction of the road. 

    In 1912, county engineer Hovednark said that the road would become “one of our most important tourist roads.” I’d say he is right!

    In 1916, upgrading of the road began. Throughout the building process, the road was criticised for being an expensive project, but the council began to work on it. The construction of the hairpin turns began in 1930. The turns were designed so they would not be too sharp. Work was done by hand with wheelbarrows, hammers and drills. Two men could do 3m of road a day. Eventually construction workers laid rails on the road so stones and gravel could be transported away.

    Trollstigen officially opened on 31 July 1936 by King Håkon VII. It is practically on the same route as the older path; though most of the older path is the Kløvstien walk. 

    Renovation Work

    Due to the location and weather, Trollstigen is continuously monitored. Due to rockfalls, a section at the bottom of Trollstigen was rebuilt in 2005. The road from Trollstigen to Geiranger was upgraded between 2005-2008 due to the large number of tourists crossing.

    Some of the turns have been widened to allow for buses to get up/down. 

    The Turns

    Each turn is named after the work team member who was responsible for that turn. From the bottom:
    – Otmar Østigård
    – Johan Voll (turns 2-4)
    – Kjelstad
    – Anton Fiva
    – Lars Daniel Tafjord
    – Martin Uri (8 and 10)
    – Arthur Langdal
    – Volda (now called Bispesvingen)

    The turns are named so if you get stuck you can tell the emergency authorities where exactly you are.

    Stats

    • 11 hairpin bends. Several have been widened, while others are their original width
    • There is a 1:12, or 10% gradient
    • The highest point is Alnesreset, where the info centre is, and it’s 850m high
    • The road is 4-6m wide – more at meeting places. When the road first opened, it was 3-4m wide

    Trollstigen Visitor Centre

    Centre

    At the top of Trollstigen is this incredible looking visitor centre. The complex is fairly new: it was built in 2012. Perhaps unsurprisingly, it was designed by an architecture firm.

    Here you’ll find restrooms, food, drinks, and souvenirs. There are walking paths all around the centre, and two viewpoints where you can capture that famous view of Trollstigen.

    Since I went on a horribly day, I didn’t get a photo of the road. It’s okay, I can always go back!

    Fjord Municipality

    Shortly after leaving the visitor centre, we cross into Fjord Municipality (Kommune).

    Fjord is a small municipality in the traditional district of Sunnmøre.

    The name ‘Fjord’ is kind of strange. It is not an old or historic name: it was chosen in 2020 for reasons of search enging optimisation. If you google ‘Fjord’, they wanted their muncipality to be the first in the list and bring tourists to the region. They have been criticised by the Language Council of Norway because fjord is a very common place name in the country. Also, they were unhappy that the name was chosen for SEO; they said that names should be based on names with a historic tradition in the area, and that ‘invented names’ with no tradition such as Fjord are unfortunate.

    I tried it and the municipality was not at the top of my list on Google!

    Gudbrandsjuvet

    Scenic area

    After a short drive, you’ll pass brown tourist signs leading you to Gudbrandsjuvet. This is a short detour with some incredible views. 

    Gudbrandsjuvet is a 5m narrow and 25m high ravine. There is a stone bridge across the river: it’s from 1919 and replaced an even older bridge from 1785.

    According to a story from the 1500s, the ravine was named after a man called Gudbrand. He ran off with his new bride and saved himself from his angry pursuers by jumping over the ravine at its narrowest point. Gudbrand was declared an outlaw for his deeds, and lived the rest of his life in a stone hut in one of the side valleys above Gudbrandsjuvet. The valley is still called Gudbrandsdalen (not to be confused with the Gudbrandsdalen north of Oslo) to this day. The story doesn’t mention whether his bride followed him over the ravine.

    There’s a gorgeous visitor centre and platform here. Have a look at the pictures on the VisitÅlesund website (click here). 

    Fun fact
    The British film Ex Machina was partly filmed at the Juvet Landscape Hotel. The hotel is just behind the viewing platform. If you want to stay there, you have to stay for a minimum of 2 nights and pay 4500 NOK per night. 

    Valldal

    Valley

    Valldal is a valley and high tourist area. We’ve been passing caravan parks and cabins for the last 15 or so minutes, so that’s definitely their main industry.

    The valley runs for 30km from Storfjorden to Trollstigen. The valley is relatively flat with a gentle slope, providing great opportunities for agriculture. The valley rises from sea level (by the fjord) to 850m above sea level at Trollstigen.

    St. Olav & Valldal

    Even though the valley is assoicated with tourism today, it is very old. Valldal is mentioned in the Old Norse Sagas. In the Saga of St. Olav, it’s written that Olav fought with a sea serpent in the Storfjord (the fjord Valldal sits on). Olav wins the battle by throwing it in the rock wall of Syltefjellet. To this day, you can see an outline of the serpent on the side of the mountain Syltefjellet.

    Just above the centre of town is Olavsstøtta. This is a monument commemorating the place where Olav sat and watched his boats burn so the enemy could not use them. After that, he set out across Valldalen – the valley we’ve been driving through. As Olav made his way through the valley, he got help from the locals who lived here. As a way to say thanks, he promised that the grain here would never freeze. According to the locals, it has never frozen!

    There’s another place named after him – Olavskilda – which is a spring with water said to have a healing effect. Before the modern times, it was used to give to animals that were unhealthy.

    Tourism

    Valldal is located in the centre of two important tourist destinations in Norway: the Geirangerfjord and Trollstigen. Vallden is located on the tourist route between the two, and understandably it gets a lot of traffic.

    Valldal is surrounded by mountains that are 1500-1800m above sea level. As you can imagine, the surrounding nature attracts a lot of tourism. There are plenty of marked hiking trails in the area, and the Norwegian Tourist Association’s cabins can be found in the region.

    Valldøla, which flows through the river, is known for its salmon and trout fishing. Fishing licences can be bought at the tourist centre in Sylte. Hunting is also common here. Valldal has a large deer herd that every autumn provides food for landowners. Grouse hunting is also possible at the top of the valley.

    Agriculture

    This is the most important industry in Valldal. The valley is known for strawberries. Before the municipality was changed to ‘Fjord’ it was called Norddal and the coat-of-arms was three berries. Besides strawberries, there are also apples, pears, plums, apricots, cherries and walnuts growing in the valley.

    Sylte

    Sylte is the name of the settlement by the fjord, but it’s often also called Valldal town centre. Around 1000 people live here. Historically, Sylte was a common area used by the farmers of Valldal where they all had a boathouse and stalls where they could store horses while attending church as well as private belongings. The area has now been developed and has a petrol station, car repair shop, and grocery store.

    Sylte Church is from 1863. It’s believed there has been a church here for a long time. The site is mentioend in documents as far back as 1589. Some guesses believe that the first church was built in 1100 after church building became common.

    Linge to Eidsdal

    Ferry

    When we get to Linge, we take the ferry over to Eidsdal.

    It’s worth noting that the ferry pier in Linge is one of the attractions along the national tourist route. I don’t know if you’ll spend any time there: we just went straight to the ferry. Click here for info about the attraction. 

    To take the ferry, join the queue in the parking lot. The ferry comes every 30-45 minutes, so you don’t have to wait long. When you are signalled, drive onto the ferry and make sure you park as close as possible to the car in front of you. You then have to turn off your car and leave it.

    How to buy a ticket? Easy. They scan the e-toll tag inside your car. All rentals will have one. After you drop off the car, the rental company sends you a bill for all the tolls/ferries you took.

    When you see the ferry getting closer to the other side, go back to your car. Don’t turn it on until you’re docked. Leave the ferry when instructed. Easy!

    Most ferries serve hot and cold food and drinks and have restrooms.

    You can view the website for the ferry here. 

    Eidsdal

    Village

    Eidsdal is a tiny town. Around 400 people live here, and the major industry is agriculture. Tourism is fastly becoming a major industry, with many campsites, cabins, and guesthouses being built in recent years.

    If you find accommodation in Geiranger is sold out – which is common – or it’s too expensive, Eidsdal is a great affordable alternative. It’s a short drive from Geiranger but accommodation can be half the price for the same standards. 

    Herdalssetra

    Farm

    Herdalssetra is a preserved mountain summer farm and one of the largest alpine farm centres for goat farming. The farm has been in continuous operaton for 300 years. It has several hundred goats, plus some cows, sheep and fjord horses. There are over 30 historic buildings gathered in a cluster. During the summer, the farm is open to the public. You can visit these historic buildings and watch as brown and white goat cheese is produced using the traditional method. The farm also has courses you can take and a café where you can try what’s made here.

    If you see the Snøfrisk brand in supermarkets – that is what is produced here!

    The drive up the toll road is 10km and steep and narrow, so be careful! Honestly, this place is spectacular and I really recommend it.

    The farm is free to access and is open in the summer when the snow has melted. Check their website for info. The drive is about 30 minutes from Eidsdal.

    To get there, you can use GPS (it’s ‘Herdalssetra’ on Google Maps) or drive along the fjord to Norddal and then take the only road that goes up the valley. 

    Stranda Municipality

    The next municipality we drive through is Stranda. It’s a typical fjord municipality with one large town and three small villages: most of the municipality itself is either fjord or mountain.

    Due to the natural environment, Stranda Municipality is one of the most visited in the Nordic countries. Tourism has long traditions here, with the first cruise ship coming into Geiranger in 1869. Today, Geiranger is the second-largest cruise ship port in Norway after Bergen.

    Besides tourism, agriculture is an important industry with around 160 farms producing milk and meat products. Many factories have long traditions for producing meat products, especially salted and cured meat. One of the most famous companies here is Orkla, which produces frozen pizzas (among other things). Since 1979, over 500 million frozen pizzas have been produced at the factory.

    Norwegians are obsessed with frozen pizzas. The number one hit song in 2005 was all about the love of frozen pizza. Click here to hear it. 

    Ørnesvingen

    Scenic Road

    Ørnesvingen is a series of 11 hairpin bends that will take you down to sea level from 620m high. At the top of the bends is the Ørnesvingen viewpoint platform, where you get a spectacular view of the Geirangerfjord, the Seven Sisters, and Geiranger village.

    The road officially opened on 15 September 1955, giving Geiranger a year-round road connection. Yes, this is the only road open in and out of Geiranger all year round. The road got the name “Ørnesvingen” because the area traditionally had lots of eagles (Ørnes = Eagle).

    The climb is steep – 10% – and it can be difficult in summer but especially winter. Traffic can make it difficult as well, so just take your time.

    The viewing point is worth stopping at but it creates its own set of issues. The parking lot is small and during summer it’ll be crowded with buses. Then, you have to cross the road to get to the viewpoint. There are no lights or pedestrian crossings; you just have to make a run for it. If you are spending the night in Geiranger, I recommend coming back later in the day if it’s too crowded. The area also creates traffic jams.

    Geiranger

    You have now made it to Geiranger!

    You can learn about Geiranger through our travel guide. 

    Geiranger Travel Guide

    Continue the drive

    Geiranger - Lom Drive

    Drive up the mountains on this continuation of the tourist road. 

    Geiranger - Lom Drive

    Previous Route

    Atlantic Road

    The Atlantic Road is located close to Åndalsnes. 

    Atlantic Road

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Åndalsnes, Molde, Stave Churches

    The oldest of the Møre type: Rødven Stave Church

    The oldest of the Møre type: Rødven Stave Church

    Everyone flocks to Åndalsnes to embark on an epic outdoors journey. Whether it be hiking one of the nearby mountains, heading out on the water, or even driving up the Trollstigen Scenic Road – Åndalsnes has it all. Still, for those who like history – like me! – you might want to take a short trip out of the town to visit the incredible Rødven Stave Church (Norwegian: Rødven stavkyrkje/stavkirke).

    If you are driving down from Molde and/or the Atlantic Road towards Åndalsnes, the stave church is more or less on the way. Built in the characteristic Møre type with the somewhat funny supporting beams, Rødven Stave Church is old and important to the town. I got to visit the church in September 2020. While it wasn’t open, like everything that year, it was fun getting to walk around outside. Here’s some information about the history and importance of the church, plus what you can do if you visit.

    In this article...

    The Fv64 Highway

    You can find this stave church just off the Fv64 highway. You can find my guide to the E6 by clicking the link below. 

    The Fv64 Highway
    Åndalsnes Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    History of Rødven Stave Church

    The Site & Early Church

    The village of Rødven isn’t an important village, though it is very pretty! Yet, the fjord it sits on – the Romsdalsfjord – was well populated in the old times and a thriving agricultural region. The site of the church doesn’t make sense to those of us today who have to drive to it. The road is very long, narrow and windy from the highway – but back then the main method of transport was boats. Located on the hillside, the church is visible from almost anywhere on the fjord. So, the site is the best place to build a community church.

    This is not the first church to stand on the site. In the 1960s, archaeological surveys discovered evidence of an earlier church. The predecessor to the stave church was the pillar church. This is where wooden beams go deep into the ground – and evidence of these pillars are on the site.

    Rødven Stave Church's History

    The age of Rødven Stave Church is unknown because the church has bits from different periods of history. Additionally, since this is such a rural church, very little is written on it throughout history. We do know that a heavy storm in 1689 took hold of the tower and blew it out to sea. This is around the time the church started to undergo a series of renovations. In 1712, the church was in poor condition and extensive work began to repair the church. Most of what we see today is from this renovation period. Again in the 19th century, the church was in poor condition. Authorities threatened to prosecute the owners of the church. Still, little work happened to the church.

    In 1908, the Society for the Preservation of Ancient Norwegian Monuments took over the responsibility of the church. Today their Romsdal division maintains the church. It is the responsibility of the farmers in the village to keep an eye on the church. Rødven Stave Church remains one of their most important projects. It is the oldest and only pre-Reformation Møre type church remaining, and the church is suffering from leaks and wall damage. The other Møre church remaining, Kvernes Stave Church, was recently discovered as being much younger than thought. It’s believed to be from the 1600s.

    Architecture & style

    As mentioned above, the church is the Møre type (Møre is the name of the region we are in), which is a unique type in Norway. What characterises a Møre church is the external support beams holding the church up. It is pretty adorable to see a church like this held up by these massive beams, but they are essential to making sure the church doesn’t collapse. In other stave churches, these support beams are inside the church and are richly decorated. In Norwegian, these support beams are known as ‘skordene’.

    Another unique feature of the Møre churches is their simple interior. Rødven today by no means has a simple interior, but compared to other churches, the interior design is much plainer. Additionally, there are less external decorations than other stave churches. The church looks more like the predecessor ‘pillar church’ than a stave church.

    The church is made up of several pieces from different periods of history, making it tricky to characterise. Originally, it was a simple long church with a rectangular nave. The south portal is unique: it consists of twisted stalks ending in folded leaves. The south portal is likely from the first half of the 12th century and may have come from the earlier church.

    Most of the architecture found in the church today is from the renovation period of the 17th and 18th centuries. The external gallery around the church was removed around 1600, about the same time the chancel was pulled down and replaced. Of the original church, it’s believed that the pillars and inner walls are original. The panelling, tiles and windows on the church are from the latter half of the 18th century.

    Interior Decoration

    The interior is a mish-mash of everything. The ceiling is very low, making it feel cosy or claustrophobic, and the walls are richly painted but faded. Most of the interior is from the 1712 renovation.

    The oldest item inside the church is the life-size crucifix. It’s believed to be from between 1250 and 1275. It is one of Norway’s finest examples of early Gothic style. There is also a marble slag from the mid-1200s.

    Otherwise, the pulpit and altar are from 1712. The benches are from different periods in history. Some of them have the Danish/Norwegian King Christian IV’s monogram (1641), while others have Christian V’s monogram (1673). Benches are from after the Reformation; Catholic churches in Norway didn’t have benches. You had to stand through the several-hour Latin service. That was one pro of the new Lutheran religion: you could sit and listen to a much shorter Danish service!

    If you want to see some photos of the interior, there’s a huge collection of images here.

    Exterior Decoration & Surrounds

    Photos of the church from 15 years ago show bare wood and faded tar. However, when I visited in 2020 the church looks almost freshly tarred.

    Archaeological excavations in the 1960s found marks under the earth. These show that pillars were buried in the ground. Traces of settlement and tombs from the Iron Age and Roman times near the church were found. Also, coins from the 12th century were discovered under the present church.

    The portals are worth taking a look at as they depict different periods in history. On the north side, the portal is Romanesque and from the end of the 12th century. The south portal is unique to stave churches and has Gothic features from around the 13th century.

    The cemetery around the church is in its original spot.

    The new Rødven Church

    Rødven Stave Church isn’t an active church anymore; it has been this way since 1907. The new church, which is the bright red one across the street, is from 1907. It is the church the community uses today.

    Rødven Stave Church Today

    Sign out the front in Norwegian, English and German

    Rødven Stave Church is no longer an active church; it is a museum that is open in the summer months.

    There is one worship service every year. It’s on Olsok, the eve of St. Olav’s Day. This day is a celebration in Norway and the Faroe Islands, plus some parts of Sweden. The day commemorates St. Olav, who died in battle in 1030. After he was buried where today’s Nidaros Cathedral is in Trondheim, he became a saint for his contributions to establishing Christianity in Norway. Until the Reformation in the 16th century, Olsok was a major church feast. The late 19th and early 20th century saw a renewed interest in Olsok. The Roman Catholic Church in Norway recognises it as a major feast in the country. Meanwhile, the Lutheran Church recognises it primarily in Nidaros Cathedral and some other churches. Ever since 1930, the 29th of July (when he died in battle), St. Olav’s Day has been a flag day.

    Sign from the road Source: Google Maps

    Approaching the church (parking area to the right) Source: Google Maps

    Guided tours are available in the summer. The church is well signed from the main highway (Fv64) that links Kristiansund to Molde via the Atlantic Road and then onto Åndalsnes. Keep in mind the road between the highway and the church is very, very narrow and windy. Drive carefully.

    Good to know

    • Updated opening hours & admission fees can be found by clicking here.
    • Norwegian name: Rødven Stavkyrkje or stavekirke (all the signs are in Norwegian)
    • Parking: Free off-street parking, but small parking area
    • Facilities: None
    • Distance to Åndalsnes: 30 mins (32km / 20 miles)
    • Distance to Molde (via ferry): 1 hour 18 mins (43km / 27 miles)

    I hope you enjoyed this article and let me know in the comments if you have any questions. If you’ve been to the church, also let me know below!

    The Fv64 Highway

    You can find this stave church just off the Fv64 highway. You can find my guide to the E6 by clicking the link below. 

    The Fv64 Highway
    Åndalsnes Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide