Emma

Hey! My name is Emma. I'm from Australia but have lived in Bergen, Norway, for the last eight years. I work as a local guide and tour leader for all over Northern Europe. The Hidden North is an online travel guide I have made to help you plan your own visit here.

  • The History of Svalbard (Summarised)

    The History of Svalbard

    Svalbard, an archipelago located in the Arctic Ocean, holds a history as vast and rugged as its icy landscapes. While the first people to visit Svalbard is disputed, there’s no denying that the island was of great importance for European hunting and trade in the 17th and 18th centuries. While the basis for interest in the archipelago was the exploration of its natural resources, today the interest in Svalbard is largely scientific.

    When travelling to Svalbard, you’ll of course be doing many excursions to see the incredible nature. However, it’s good to understand how Svalbard came to be what it is today. I’ve written this short historic overview of Svalbard with additional information on how to visit these places today, and hopefully this will make your trip to Svalbard even better!

    Here is my History of Svalbard. 

    In this article...

    Be sure to read my detailed travel guide for Svalbard, including all the settlements and itineraries for different times of the year. 

    When did the first peoples reach Svalbard?

    It’s not known exactly when the first peoples were on Svalbard. Some explorers have claimed that they have found Stone Age tools on Svalbard from around 3,000BC, but there is little support of these claims. However, during the 19th century Norwegian historians proposed that Norse seamen founded Svalbard in 1194, and this is based on documents stating that “Svalbarði” is four days sailing from Iceland. This is where the name ‘Svalbard’ comes from. However, there is no further written sources about the Norse exploration to Svalbard. Russian historians have proposed that the Pomors (North Russian traders) may have visited the island in the 15th century.

    The first undisputed discovery of Svalbard was an expedition led by the Dutch cartographer and navigator Willem Barentsz (the Barents Sea is named after him), who was searching for the Northeast Passage to China. He spotted Bear Island (just south of the main island Spitsbergen) on 10 June 1596 and then saw the north-western tip of Spitsbergen on the 17th of June. His documents did not mention Svalbard’s natural resources, such as oil and fur – what the region would soon become famous for.

    The First Peoples of Svalbard & Early Whaling

    Svalbard’s natural resources were not ‘discovered’ until 1607, when the English navigator Henry Hudson found whales, walruses, and seals in the water around Spitsbergen. This gave rise to a claim of Spitsbergen in 1614 by the Muscovy Company on behalf of King James I of England.

    The Dutch started whaling activities in the Arctic around the year 1612, and they established the first settlement on Svalbard – Smeerenburg – in 1619. It is possible to visit Smeerenburg only on cruises that visit the north-west coast of the island. The Dutch ended up dominating the whaling industry with the help of experienced Basque harpooners, who boiled whale blubber in large copper pots. By the late 17th century, there were between 200 and 300 ships and up to 10,000 whalers around Spitsbergen. The first group overwintered (accidentally) in 1630. The first planned overwintering was by the Dutch at Smeerenburg in 1633. Smeerenburg was abandoned in 1750.

    Cornelis de Man's 1639 painting of whaling at Smeerenburg
    remains of smeerenburg history of svalbard
    Smeerenburg today

    Eventually the interest in other resource arose, with the goods being taken back to Europe to be sold. The Pomors (Russian traders) were the ones who started hunting animals for fur. They hunted polar bears, foxes, seals, and walruses. They built many hunting stations around Svalbard, and many of these stations, complete with Russian Orthodox crosses, have been excavated. The Pomors would also overwinter on Svalbard. The large Pomor settlement at Russekeila became known for its famous inhabitant, Ivan Starostin, who spent 39 winters on Svalbard. Cape Starashchin is named after him.

    Who owns Svalbard? Political Conflicts over the Archipelago

    The European whalers let to an international political conflict. Who owned Svalbard? Who had a right to kick others out? The Dutch rejected that the English had exclusive rights, and King Christian IV of Denmark-Norway claimed that he had the rights to all of the Northern Sea as Greenland was an old Norwegian tax-land. England offered to purchased the rights from Denmark-Norway, but the offer was turned down and then England went back to claiming exclusive rights. In 1615, Denmark-Norway sent men to collect tax from English and Dutch whalers, but they refused to pay. This ended in political deadlock.

    As mentioned above, the Russian Pomor traders came in the late 17th century and established their own settlements. In the 1790s, there were 2,200 Russian hunters in Svalbard. However, the Pomors found it difficult to compete with the Norwegians who reached the hunting grounds earlier and eventually took over. The Norwegians began overwintering in Svalbard in 1795.

    Seal hunting was started by the Germans in the late 17th century and was taken over by Norwegians and the Danes in the 18th century. Seal hunting wasn’t as profitable, though.

    Norwegians reached Svalbard in the 18th century, and the first Norwegian citizens to reach the island of Spitsbergen were a number of Sami people from Hammerfest, who were hired as part of a Russian crew for an expedition in 1795. From the 1820s Norwegian hunting expeditions grew and Tromsø became the main port from which the expeditions began. Elling Carlsen was a well-known seal hunter and explorer, and circumnavigated the whole archipelago in 1861.

    Exploration in the 19th Century

    While the interest in Svalbard was certainly associated with hunting, there was also an interest in studying Svalbard. Exploration on the archipelago began in the early 17th century by the whaling companies. In 1650, it was established that Spitsbergen was an island not connected to Greenland. However, it was only really the coast that was studied at first.

    The first scientific expedition to Svalbard was the Russian Čičagov Expedition between 1764 and 1766, which passed Svalbard in an unsuccessful attempt to find the North Sea Route. The second expedition was organised by the Royal Navy and led by Constantine Phipps in 1773. They collected zoological and botanical samples and measured water temperatures.

    Scientific exploration increased throughout the 18th century, with the most extensive surveys being carried out by William Scoresby, who published several papers on the Arctic. Baltazar Mathias Keilhau (a Norwegian) was the first to carry out expeditions on the interior of Svalbard. Swedish exploration started with Sven Loven in 1837, which led way to Sweden dominating scientific investigations in the last half of the century. Martin Conway (United Kingdom) was the first to produce a map of the interior of Svalbard.

    Airship Norge in Ny-Ålesund 1926

    Svalbard was used as the starting point for expeditions to the North Pole. Ny-Ålesund (the second main settlement of Svalbard, only accessible on guided tour) was the basis of four attempts to the North Pole between 1925 and 1928, including Roald Amundsen’s first attempt with a flying boat. Amundsen’s airship Norge is credited as the first to reach the pole. Umberto Nobile’s airship Italia crashed in 1928, resulting in the largest search in polar history.

    Industrialisation of Svalbard

    While hunting was important for the growth of interest in Svalbard, the next phase of Svalbard’s money-making history was the industrialisation of the archipelago following the discovery of coal. No rules governed who could claim land, and between 1898 and 1920 over 100 land claims were made.

    The first attempt to create a permanent settlement on Svalbard was carried out by Sweden’s Alfred Gabriel Nathorst, who established Kapp Thordsen in 1872 with the goal of mining phosphorite, but it was never carried out. The Swedes set themselves up to mine at Svea, while the Russians began mining at Barentsburg and Pyramiden. The two British companies were the Scottish Spitsbergen Syndicate and the Northern Exploration Company.

    Industrial mining of coal began in 1899 (the whalers and hunters had been using the coal long before then), but the first commercially viable mining company was the American John Munroe Longyear’s Arctic Coal Company, which established the town Longyear City (in 1925 it was renamed Longyearbyen). By 1910, 200 men worked for the company and by 1912 the company was extracting 40,000 tons of coal a year. The town and the mines were bought by the Norwegian-owned Store Norske Spitsbergen Kulkompani in 1916.

    Longyearbyen in 1908

    The first school in Longyearbyen was built in 1920 by the Church of Norway. Svalbard Radio started broadcasting in 1911, and an early version of a hotel was completed in 1896.

    Swedish interests established mines at Pyramiden (no longer accessible due to the war in Urkraine) and Sveagruva (recently abandoned and torn down), which Dutch investors established Barentsburg (not accessible due to the war in Ukraine). Norwegians established coal mining in Ny-Ålesund in 1916.

    Norway Claims Svalbard (The Svalbard Treaty)

    During all this time, Svalbard was a terra nullius (land without government). The work to establish an administration was established in 1871. Fridtjof Nansen’s endeavours raised the Norwegian public’s consciousness of the Arctic, which again brought forth public support for the annexation of Svalbard.

    The Government of Norway took initative in 1907 for negotiations between the involved states mining in Svalbard. Conferences were held in 1910, 1912 and 1914. The break through came at the Paris Peace Conference – Germany and Russia had both been excluded, while Norway enjoyed much goodwill after their neutral ally policy and was seen as a harmless country.

    The Svalbard Treaty of 9 February 1920 granted Norway full sovereignty over Svalbard, although with two major limitations: all parties to the treaty had equal rights to economic resources and Svalbard was not to be used for “warlike purposes”. That is why there’s no military on Svalbard, and why Russia owns Barentsburg and Pyramiden.

    Svalbard was to be administered by the Governor of Svalbard. It is regarded as “part of the Kingdom of Norway” but is not a county. A mining code was passed in 1925 and by 1927 all mining claims were resolved. All unclaimed land was taken over by the Norwegian government. Although the Soviet Union was sceptical to the treaty, they were willing to trade a signing of it in exchange for a Norwegian recognition of the Soviet regime.

    By the 1930s, only the Norwegians and Russians were mining on Svalbard.

    World War II

    Ruins from World War II in Longyearbyen

    Svalbard was initially unaffected by the Nazi occupation of Norway by Nazi Germany on 9 April 1940. However, following the Nazi attack on the Soviet Union, Svalbard became of strategic importance to secure supplies between the allies. All Norwegian and Soviet settlements were evacuated, and Nazis occupied Longyearbyen, where they built an airstrip and a weather station. Svalbard is one of the best weather prediction places for the sea and temperatures in Northern Norway, so it was of strategic importance for them. In May 1942, a Norwegian expedition was sent to liberate the island and they were attacked by the Nazis. Eventually the Nazis left Svalbard, but destroyed Barentsburg, Grumand and Longyearbyen in the process. The towns were rebuilt after the war, and in Longyearbyen it’s possible to see the remains of the town before the war.

    Cold War & the Kings Bay Affair

    Pyramiden, a now abandoned Soviet mining town

    In 1944, the Soviet Union proposed that Svalbard become a condominium under joint Norwegian and Soviet rule. The proposal was discussed in Norway but ultimately rejected.

    Political tension between Norway and the Soviet Union became heated after Norway joined NATO in 1949. The Soviet Union issued memorandums to Norway stating that Svalbard could not be under NATO command, but this was rejcted by Norway.

    21 miners were killed in an accident in Ny-Ålesund, which led to the King’s Bay Affair. Basically, the Kings Bay Mining Company was a coal mining operation based in Ny-Ålesund that was owned by the government. After the miners were killed in an accident, the Norwegian government established an investigatory commission that ended up finding deficiencies in the management of the mine, especially culpability on part of the minister of industry at the time, Kjell Holler. The non-socialist opposition to the Labour Party government demanded that Holler be dismissed, but Prime Minister Einar Gerhardsen claimed that the Kings Bay operations were not accountable to the parliament. Gerhardsen was forced to appear before parliament and answer for his cabinet’s actions. The opposition found unity in proposing a vote of no-confidence to the parliament, claiming that a government that owns a corporation that is mismanaged should be held accountable. This led to the Gerhardsen cabinet resigning.

    Oil drilling was started by Caltex in 1961. They were granted claims based on indications, rather than samples, of oil, which was a privilege not given to the Soviets, leading to strained relations. No commercially viable wells were found.

    Both the Kings Kay Affair and the Caltex Affair initiated public debate about the administration of Svalbard, and in particular the lack of resources and control of Soviet settlments. The Governor of Svalbard increased its activities in Soviet settlements.

    After mining ended in Ny-Ålesund, the Norwegian Polar Institute took a dominant role in converting it to an international research station.

    In 1973, more than half of the archipelago was protected through four national parks, fourteen bird sanctuaries and four nature reserved.

    'Normalisation' & Modern Times

    “Normalisation” was a term coined in the 1970s to transform Longyearbyen from a company town to a regular community. In 1971, the Svalbard Council was established for the Norwegian population.

    The civilian airport at Longyearbyen was built in 1975 and was built to serve both the Norwegian and Soviet towns.

    The 1990s saw a large reduction in Russian activity. Schools were closed in 1994 and children and mothers were sent to the mainland, reducing the population of Barentsburg to 800 and Pyramiden to 600. Pyramiden was abandoned in 1998. From 1990 to 2011, the Russian and Ukrainian population fell from 2,300 to 370, while the Norwegian population increased from 1,100 to 2,000.

    Tourism has emerged as a major livelihood for Svalbard with hotels being built on Spitsbergen from 1995.

    Research and education is also of crucial importance to Svalbard in modern times. Since the 1990s, several high-tech institutes and research centres have established themselves, including the University Centre in Svalbard, the European Incoherent Scatter Scientific Association, the Svalbard Satellite Station, the Svalbard Undersea Cable System, and the Svalbard Global Seed Vault.

    In 2002, the Longyearbyen Community Council was incorporated with many of the same responsibilities as a municipality.

    Today tourism is important to Svalbard and the largest industry on the archipelago, though research still plays an important role for the basis of settlement there. 

    Further Reading

    For a more detailed overview of Svalbard’s history, I recommend reading this document from VisitSvalbard (click here). 

    Be sure to read my detailed travel guide for Svalbard, including all the settlements and itineraries for different times of the year. 

  • Things to do in Svolvær: Activities & Excursions You Must Book!

    Things to do in Svolvær: Activities & Excursions to Book

    Svolvær is the capital in the Lofoten Islands and is the place you are most likely to stay at or at least pass through. It has the main airport for Lofoten (with daily flights to Bodø), important bus connections, and fast ferries to the mainland. The coastal ferry also stops in Svolvær every day. 

    Despite the fact that Svolvær is described as a big city, it is still a small town with a great feel about it. It is close to some of the Lofoten Island’s most popular hikes, it has some of the nicest restaurants and hotels in the Lofoten Islands, and of course it is a great place to base yourself for tours and excursions.

    So, what exactly can you do there? Well, a lot! It can seem overwhelming trying to figure out which excursions to do and how to distinguish between the different companies, so I’ve put together a useful list summarising what you can do in Svolvær. It’s also based off my experiences and what I’ve done when I visit Svolvær. 

    Please note that the links to the tours are affiliate links, meaning that if you book through the link I provide, I get a small commission. However, I only recommend tours that I would personally do!

    Table of Contents

    Trollfjord Cruise / Sea Eagle Safari

    The Trollfjord Cruise and the Sea Eagle Safari is more or less one and the same. Trollfjord is one of the most beautiful fjords in Norway and is only accessible by guided boat tour. The fjord is enclosed by steep mountains and feels almost like entering a cave. Here the mountains reach peaks of around 1000 metres above sea level.

    On each cruise, there is an almost-guarantee that you will see sea eagles along the way. The sea eagles can be seen on the rocks and cliffs along the Raftsundet, and the tours will try and bring the sea eagles close to you by feeding them. 

    There are a few different ways to visit Trollfjord:

    Silent Electric Ship

    The Brim Explorer is a new, modern and comfortable ship with indoor and outdoor seating areas. When the ship enters the Trollfjord, it switches to electricity so the experience is totally silent. The decks allow for a 360-degree view. The guides on board talk along the way, pointing out sea eagles and discussing the marine life. They even put cameras underwater so you can see what’s going on beneath the surface. On board is a café and bar with meals, snacks and drinks.         

    RIB/Zodiac Boat Tour

    The RIB boat is my favourite way to see Trollfjord! It is super fast and is a thrilling adventure. You are given proper suits to make sure you stay warm, but since it is an open air experience be prepared to get a little wet on rainy days.

    The guides/drivers on board do stop to explain things along the way, and are fantastic at what they do.

    If you want to take photos, it’s best to go on the electric ship.

    I have used the company XXLofoten before and only have good things to say about them, so this is the company I recommend booking through. 

    Sailing Boat/Catamaran

    On this trip, you sail from Svolvær to Trollfjord on a modern and comfortable catamaran. The tour guide tells you what you see along the trip. Included in the tour is homemade fish soup, coffee and tea. You can even do fishing along the way if you want.

    Fishing Tour

    Lofoten is the land of cod and fishing traditions going back thousands of years, so there’s nothing better to do than experience fishing on your own trip! The famous cod (known as ‘skrei’ – the North-East Atlantic Sea Cod) travels from the Barents Sea to the Norwegian coast to breed in January. About 40% of all cod in the Norwegian sea breed in Lofoten, making it a haven for cod fishing. The main season for cod is from January to April, but it’s possible to fish all year. You can also catch pollock, catfish, cusk, halibut, plaice, haddock, herring, mackerel, and ling. If you want to try fishing, it’s possible to join a trip.

    Tours take you on a traditional fishing boat, known as a ‘Sjark’. You are provided with a fishing kit, safety equipment, a guide, and everything you need!

    Northern Lights Tours

    It’s possible to observe the northern lights from the end of August until the beginning of April. I’ll be honest, Lofoten isn’t the best place to see the northern lights – it’s coastal and prone to lots of bad storms. However, it is possible to book a trip to try and see the northern lights.

    There are several tours that go out searching for the northern lights, and it’s always wise to book a tour rather than navigate the dark, icy roads by yourself. Which tour you want to do comes down to your interests. here are some tours I recommend.

    Northern Lights by Van

    Vans ensure small group sizes and the ability to park in places minibuses and full-size buses can’t.

    Northern Lights with a Photographer

    It is a lot harder to photograph the northern lights than people expect, do it is worth booking a tour with a photographer. Not only will you learn how to take wonderful photos of the lights, but the photographer will also capture some high-quality images of the show.

    The main company offering this tour is Lofoten Lights, which has very good reviews. 

    Midnight Sun Tours

    If you are staying in Svolvær for the midnight sun, prepare to be a little disappointed. While the sun never sets in Svolvær in summer, the mountains block the sun from the town in the evenings, making it feel like the sun has set. If you want to see the midnight sun, you need to head to the west coast of the islands. If you are in Svolvær without a vehicle, or want to trust a local to take you to the best spot, it’s worthwhile booking a tour. 

    Midnight Sun with a Photographer

    This tour is offered by Lofoten Lights, the same company doing Northern Lights tours. This is a great tour if you want to follow a local photographer to the best spots to capture the midnight sun. 

    Midnight Sun Cruise from Svolvær

    Lofoten is most beautiful from the water, so why not join a sailing tour to head over to the west coast of Lofoten and observe the midnight sun?

    Explore the Lofoten Islands

    Svolvær is lovely, but it’s not the most beautiful part of the Lofoten Islands. If you are only visiting Svolvær and don’t have access to a vehicle, consider booking a guided tour to somewhere else in Lofoten. A number of tours to different locations are offered, so book depending on your interests. 

    Lofoten Five Hour Tour

    On this bus tour, you’ll visit the island of Gimsoy and the towns of Kabelvåg and Henningsvær. Henningsvær is one of the major highlights of Lofoten, so if you don’t have much time to explore the islands, this is a great tour!

    Lofoten Seven Hour Photography Tour

    On this photography-focused tour, you’ll head to southern Lofoten, which many regard as the most beautiful part of the Lofoten Islands. You will visit the famous village Reine (the one used in all the promotional material for Lofoten) as well as Flakstad and Ramberg. 

    If you have the time, I highly recommend this tour. Especially if you aren’t getting down to southern Lofoten independently. 

    Things to do in Svolvær!

    As you can see, there are many things to do in Svolvær. I hope this guide has been useful! If you have any questions, please ask away in the comments section of this article.

    You can find more information about Svolvær on our dedicated travel guide page. 

  • Bergen Events & Public Holidays 2024

    Bergen Events & Public Holidays 2024: What's Happening in Bergen This Year

    Are you coming to Bergen this year? It’s worth checking out what’s happening in the city! There are many events happening in Bergen, and it may impact (or enhance) your stay.

    Bergen is Norway’s second-largest city and boasts a number of prominent festivals and concerts for the country. There’s also outdoor events and activities all-year-round, making it a great place to visit. 

    Here’s my list of the Bergen Events for 2024. 

    Be sure to check out my Flåm travel guide, where I put lots of information about what you can see and do in Flåm. 

    Table of Contents

    March 2024

    Borealis Music Festival (13-17 March 2024)

    Borealis is a contemporary music festival, but it also has talks, movies, literature and visual arts events. 

    You can visit their website here: https://www.borealisfestival.no/en/home/

    Easter Weekend

    In Norway the shops and some museums will close on Thursday, Friday, Sunday and Monday, making it tricky to arrange a trip at that point. However, there is a nice peacefulness to the city.

    If you are taking the train, flying, or heading to a ski area. Expect large crowds. Many Norwegians take this holiday to head out and ski. Easter is generally regarded as the last time for the season that Norwegians can go skiing, so it is a huge holiday for that. 

    Maundy Thursday (28 March 2024)

    Maundy Thursday is a public holiday in Norway. Shops will be closed. 

    Good Friday (29 March 2024)

    Good Friday is a public holiday in Norway and shops/businesses will be closed. 

    Easter Sunday (30 March 2024)

    Easter Sunday is a public holiday in Norway and shops will be closed. 

    Easter Monday (31 March 2024)

    Easter Monday is a public holiday in Norway and shops will be closed.

    April 2024

    Bergen City Marathon (27 April 2024)

    The Bergen City Marathon is a true highlight and is a great event to either participate in or just watch. The start and finish line is at Bryggen, so if you are in town that day, expect your visit to Bryggen to be impacted. 

    The marathon circles around the city a couple times, passing by some of the prettiest neighbourhoods. 

    You can read more and register here. It’s also worth checking out the schedule so you can plan your visit to Bryggen: https://www.bergencitymarathon.no/en/

    May 2024

    Labour Day/Workers Day (1 May 2024)

    The 1st of May is a major public holiday in Norway and is the day to commemorate worker’s and the labour movement. In many large cities, Labour Day events are organised by the labour unions themselves in an effort to promote unity among the workforce. Often, Labour Day celebrations in Norway have a strong political message. 

    The date was chosen to commemorate the Haymarket Affair, a 19th century worker rally that ended in violence in Chicago, USA.

    Shops and businesses will be closed. 

    Ascension Day (9 May 2024)

    Ascension Day is the commemoration of Jesus Christ’s ascension to heaven as recorded in the Bible. It is observed on the fortieth day of Easter – 39 days after Easter Sunday – and always fall on a Thursday.

    Some businesses may close on Ascension day.

    Constitution Day (17 May 2024)

    Constitution Day is the public holiday in Norway. Everything will be closed and all the locals will be dressed in their traditional bunad. There will be parades throughout the morning and the city will be crowded, and then in the afternoon there’ll be lots of parties around the city.

    You can find the program for 17 May 2024 on the VisitBergen website: https://en.visitbergen.com/whats-on/_ga=2.89125147.107885438.1709361625-1648540860.1709127065

    If you plan on moving around the city this day, it’s worth looking at what VisitBergen says about public transportation: 

    Please note that the whole city center will be closed for ordinary traffic during the celebrations and public transport will have special routes and stops. The Bergen Light Rail to and from the airport will not stop at the two last stops in the city center (Nonneseter and Byparken) in the morning until 15:00 in the afternoon. Bergen Buss station is then the last stop in the city center. If you are going from the city center to the airport on the 17th May, we recommend you plan your means of transport well in advance.

    Whit Sunday (19 May 2024)

    Whit Monday (20 May 2024)

    Most businesses will be closed on Whit Monday. 

    Bergen International Festival (Norwegian name: Festspillene i Bergen) (22 May – 5 June 2024)

    Bergen International Festival is the major cultural event of the year and is regarded as the largest cultural event of its type in the Nordics. Here you can see music, art, dance, theatre and so much more. The opening event this year is the musical Peer Gynt. 

    You can buy tickets and view their program here: https://www.fib.no/en/

    Night Jazz Festival (Norwegian name: NattJazz) (24 May – 1 June 2024)

    This is the longest jazz festival in Northern Europe and has lovely concerts in the evening. There’s not just jazz music but you can hear rock music and electronic music.

    View the program and buy tickets here: https://en.nattjazz.no/

    7 Mountain Hike (26 May 2024)

    The 7 Mountain Hike is a yearly event where thousands of people hike the seven mountains surrounding Bergen in one day. It’s not a race but more of a fun day out with the family.

    Learn more here: https://www.dnt.no/dnt-der-du-er/BergenogHordalandTurlag/7-fjellsturen/

    You can register by clicking here. 

    June 2024

    Gay Pride Parade (Norwegian name: Regnbuedagene) (8 June 2024)

    The Gay Pride Festival has debates, theatre, art, concerts, films, and the Pride Parade. The parade starts on the 8th of June, but they have a large line-up of events on other days in the first week of June. 

    You can read more here: https://bergenpride.no/

    BergenFest (12-15 June 2024)

    BergenFest is the music festival in Bergen. This four-day outdoor festival brings in big names from around the world. You can buy a day pass if you want to go when you’re in town. 

    See the program and buy tickets here: https://www.bergenfest.no/en/

    July 2024

    Beyond the Gates (31 July – 3 August 2024)

    This is the main festival for metal music in Bergen. There’s also guided tours for metal culture, art exhibitions, and a tattoo festival. 

    See the program and buy tickets here: https://www.beyondthegates.no/

    August 2024

    Grieg Festival (19 August – 31 August 2024)

    The Grieg Festival is full of concerts at Håkons Hall in the fortress. The music focuses on, but is not limited to, Edvard Grieg. 

    View the program and buy tickets here: http://www.grieginbergen.com

    Feelings (23-24 August 2024)

    Feelings is an outdoor music festival that features artists primarily in pop, electronic dance music and hip hop. This is the second edition of the festival.

    See the program and buy tickets here: https://www.feelingsfestival.no/

    Bergen Food Festival (30-31 August 2024)

    At the Bergen Food Festival there is a lot of focus on foods from the surrounding farms of Western Norway. 

    September 2024

    October 2024

    Bergen International Film Festival (16 – 24 October 2024)

    The Bergen International Festival is one of the largest festivals in the Nordic region and focuses primarily on documentaries from all over the world. It also has many new fiction film premieres and additional events.

    View the program here: https://www.biff.no/

    November 2024

    Bergen Gingerbread Village (Pepperkakebyen) (23 November – 31 December 2024)

    Bergen’s Gingerbread Village is the world’s largest of its kind and a must-see!

    View their website here: http://www.pepperkakebyen.org/

    Festival of Light (23 November 2024)

    Traditional annual opening of the Christmas season, where families are invited to light torches and enjoy music, entertainment and a magnificent display of fireworks. 

    Bergen Christmas Market (29 November – 22 December 2024)

    Bergen Christmas Market is located right in the heart of Bergen at Festplassen. Buy handmade Christmas gifts and delightful edible treats.

    Keep up-to-date on their Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/byjulemarked/

    December 2024

  • Where to Stay in Flåm, from a Tour Leader’s Perspective

    Where to Stay in Flåm from a Tour Leader's Perspective

    Most people coming to Norway will visit Flåm, the small village home to the famous Flåm Railway and Fjord Cruise – two integral parts of the ‘Norway in a Nutshell’ day-trip. While many travellers simply pass through Flåm on a day-trip, it’s worthwhile slowing down the trip and spending a night in Flåm. While there aren’t many options for an overnight stay, the options that are available are wonderful.

    I’ve stayed in Flåm many, many times and have stayed and multiple places around the region. So, for this guide I thought about which one I’d pick if I was to plan and book a trip to Flåm myself. But I also thought about practical things – proximity to attractions, scenery, proximity to crowds and cruise ships, and so on. 

    Accommodation in Flåm is limited and very likely to sell out in the summer, so it’s good to be organised. When it came to writing this guide, I thought it was best to divide accommodation not just by price, but also by proximity to the major touristy area (i.e. the cruise pier).

    Here’s how I divide according to price:

    • High end: 1500 NOK a night and above
    • Mid range: 1000-1500 a night
    • Budget friendly: Less than 1000 a night

    In summary, my preference:

    If I was choosing to spend one night here, I’d definitely stay in the centre of Flåm at either Fretheim or Flåmsbrygga. If I was staying here a few nights, I’d probably stay in Aurland or maybe Undredal and get a self-service apartment as restaurants are few and far between and rather expensive.

    In this article...

    The E16 Highway

    Flåm is located on the E16, the main highway between east and west Norway. You can find my guide to the E16 by clicking the link below. 

    Be sure to check out my Flåm travel guide, where I put lots of information about what you can see and do in Flåm. 

    Flåm Centre (Cruise Pier & Railway)

    Why Stay Here?

    This is the most convenient place to stay. You are never more than a two-minute walk to the railway, ferry pier, or shops and restaurants. It does come at a cost, however. In the summer months, it is very crowded here during the day with buses, cruise ships and tour groups.

    The hotels don’t offer parking (there’s no parking lots outside them!) but there is a large communal parking area in Flåm.

    High End

    Fretheim Hotel

    Fretheim Hotel is Flåm’s historic hotel. The hotel was established by Christen Fretheim in the 1870s to provide accommodation for the English tourists visiting the Western Fjords.

    This is the hotel where most of the tour groups stay, so expect to have tour buses and groups of up to 40 in the area.

    The hotel has a fantastic restaurant that serves a buffet (for a fee) for dinner and an included breakfast that is worth the high nightly fee. You can stay in the modern part of the hotel or in one of the historic rooms (choose when booking directly with the hotel). The staff here are lovely and there’s a large bar and seating area in the lobby. Some rooms have fjord views while others have mountain views.

    When trying to get an average on prices for this article, the hotel was already sold out for dates in May and June (I wrote this in February). On their website, historic rooms start at 1990 NOK a night (suites from 2300 NOK a night) and standard rooms begin at 1890 NOK a night.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Flåmsbrygga Hotel

    Flåmsbrygga is owned by the same company that runs the microbrewery Ægir. The rooms are spacious and have balconies overlooking either the fjord or the mountains. The downside to the hotel is that it is right by the cruise pier, so can be crowded during the day. You can, however, get package deals through the hotel that includes beer tasting and dinner (since they own the surrounding restaurants too).

    Like Fretheim, when I was checking they also had a lot of sold out dates. Their standard rooms start at 3,190 NOK! I was shocked that it’s more expensive than Fretheim. The price includes free breakfast.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Flåm Station Apartments

    This property is quite interesting – if you want a fully serviced apartment, this is a great option. You get a balcony, kitchen, private bathroom and even a coffee machine! It isn’t cheap, though, with prices starting at around 3000 NOK a night. But the apartments can fit up to 4 people.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Budget Friendly

    Flåm Camping & Vandrarheim

    This is as close as you’ll get to budget accommodation in Flåm.

    Hostel-style rooms for two-four people with a private bathroom starts at 750 NOK a night, while hostel-style rooms with a shared bathroom starts at 550 NOK a night.

    They also offer cabins with private bathrooms (1790 NOK a night) and with shared bathrooms (900 NOK a night) that offer more space for larger groups (such as families). Holiday homes (with three bedrooms) start at 2,800 NOK a night.

    They have an area for caravans starting at 400 NOK a night, and a tent area starting at 360 NOK a night. For those categories, they have drinking stations, kitchens, a washing machine and toilet and shower building.

    The cabins and hostel rooms are clean and well-maintained, but expect basic facilities here. No included meals.  

    Check Availability & Prices

    Outer Flåm

    Why Stay Here?

    If you want to get a little away from the cruise pier, but maybe don’t have a vehicle, there are some places 10-15 minutes on foot out of the town centre. The prices begin to drop a little bit, too.

    The village of Flåm is located about a 40-minute walk from the cruise pier and train station. There you can find some some Airbnbs (not listed on this guide) if you are more interested in renting a full house or apartment. If staying that far out of town, you would probably need a car. 

    High End

    Flåm Marina

    Flåm Marina is the high-end option for those who want to be close to Flåm, but also want to avoid the crowds. The accommodation offers a high-end restaurant and excellent views out to the fjord. Double rooms with a terrace start at 3150 NOK a night, so it’s definitely a high-end option. All rooms have a kitchenette and private bathroom, as well as parking.

    There are saunas close by that float on the fjord!

    Check Availability & Prices

    Mid Range

    Svingen Guesthouse

    Svingen Guesthouse is located by the fjord, but about 10 minutes on foot from the cruise pier area. The property has a shared kitchen, shared lounge and garden area. The rooms at the hostel part of the guesthouse have a shared bathroom and some come with a view to the fjord. The rooms in the main guesthouse come with private bathrooms, bed linen and towels.

    This was also mostly sold out when I was doing my research, making it tricky to get prices.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Budget Friendly

    Brekke Gård

    Brekke Gård Hostel is located about 15-20 minutes on foot from the cruise pier area. Here you can find dormitory rooms with shared bathrooms, single rooms with shared bathrooms, or high-end rooms with a private bathroom. Note that towels are not included and you need to clean before checkout.

    Reviews for this hotel are mixed, but it does offer good value in expensive Flåm. They do offer breakfast at an additional fee.

    Check Availability & Prices (Hostel)

    Check Availability & Prices (Apartments)

    Neighbouring Villages: Aurland

    Why Stay Here?

    Aurland has all the charm of a fjord-side village that you are looking for, but without the mass crowds. It has a historic church, charming shops and cafes, hiking trails, and magnificent views to the Aurlandsfjord. Big cruise ships don’t dock here, and tour buses generally don’t stop here. It’s also only a 10 minute drive to Flåm (so you’ll need a car), making it a perfect place to base yourself. 

    High End

    Wangen Apartments

    Wangen Apartments offer private apartments with a terrace, kitchen, private bathroom and full amenities. A one bedroom apartment with fjord views starts at 3,690 NOK, so this is definitely not the cheapest place to stay. Still, the apartments look brand-new and high quality.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Hotel Aurlandsfjord

    Hotel Aurlandsfjord is the classic hotel in Aurland. A twin room starts at 2,890 NOK a night, while suites are closer to 3,800 NOK. Here there is breakfast included (unlike Wangen Apartments, for example).

    Check Availability & Prices

    Mid Range

    Vangsgaarden Gjestgiveri

    Vangsgaarden Gjestgiveri is a good mid-range option. Here you can either rent basic or deluxe cabins, basic rooms or full apartments. Basic double rooms and cabins start at 1700 NOK a night, while the deluxe cabin is 2800 NOK a night. All rooms have private bathrooms, the cabins and apartments have private kitchens, and most rooms have views out to the fjord.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Budget Friendly

    Lunde Camping

    Lunde Camping is about as budget friendly as it gets, but the rooms are very basic (if not rather dated). A double room starts at 1100 NOK and comes with a private bathroom and private semi-kitchen (cooktop, microwave, fridge and oven). There’s also larger rooms for up to 5 people starting at 1250 NOK a night. If you are okay with basic, this is a well-valued option.  

    Check Availability & Prices

    Neighbouring Villages: Undredal

    The one place in town!

    Undredal is quite isolated, and you will need to rely on a car or the ferry service to get in and out. That said, there is a hotel here (called Visit Undredal) that offers fantastic value.

    Beginning at 2100 NOK a night, you can get a three-bedroom apartment (up to six people) with a view to the fjord, kitchen, private bathroom and balcony. The rooms are 70m2! You are a 20 minute drive to Flåm, but it’ll be so peaceful out here it may be worth the commute.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Neighbouring Villages: Gudvangen

    Gudvangen's Options

    Located on the Nærøyfjord, Gudvangen is a 20-30 minute drive from Flåm but is also one end of the famous fjord cruise. The hotel here, Gudvangen Fjordtell, is basic but offers good rooms that are not that cheaper than Flåm. Based on these prices, I’d not sure I’d choose here over Flåm or Aurland, unless both those places were sold out. Apartments (kitchens, bathrooms) start at 2,800 NOK a night, while double rooms with private bathrooms are 2,800 NOK a night (rooms with shared bathrooms are only 100 NOK cheaper, which seems odd).

    Check Availability & Prices

    There is the Gudvangen Budget Hotel as well, which has rooms with shared bathrooms starting at 1,800 NOK a night.

    Check Availability & Prices

    Neighbouring Villages: Stalheim

    Stalheim Hotel

    The furthest village from Flåm, Stalheim is the famous historic Stalheim Hotel. It offers spectacular views over the Nærøy valley and is in a truly peaceful region. I love this hotel, though expect it to be a little basic considering the price tag. Double rooms start at 2,700 NOK (deluxe from 3900 NOK).

    Check Availability & Prices

    Final Thoughts on Where to Stay in Flåm

    Where you choose to stay in Flåm should depend on your own personal preferences and practical needs. Just be sure to book far in advance!

    The E16 Highway

    Flåm is located on the E16, the main highway between east and west Norway. You can find my guide to the E16 by clicking the link below. 

    Be sure to check out my Flåm travel guide! Here you can find all my recommendations of things to do and see, including my self-guided walks. 

  • Norwegian Road Rules You Must Know Before You Drive

    Norwegian Road Rules You Must Know Before You Drive

    I love driving in Norway. The Hidden North actually started because I wanted to post somewhere how much I love driving. What’s so great about driving in Norway is just how spectacular the scenery is. Everywhere you go, it feels totally different. On top of that, Norway’s roads are well-maintained and attractions are well-signed, making it a great way to see the country.

    However, Norway’s road rules can seem a little challenging for first-timers to the country. At the moment Norway is having a huge tourism boom (which is great!) and many people hire a car or bring their caravan without truly understanding how driving here works. Because of that, there’s an increased problem with road accidents, slow drivers delaying traffic, or dangerous situations which can be avoided. 

    Because of this, I’ve made an easy to follow guide on what I believe to be the most important road rules in Norway. I’ve also included resources with more information in case you need additional learnings. 

    Any questions, please post in the comments! Be sure to view all the road-trip guides I have for Norway. 

    Table of Contents

    Statens Vegvesen

    Statens Vegvesen (the Norwegian Public Roads Administration) is responsible for most aspects of driving in Norway. They have a detailed guide to driving in Norway, which I recommend you read.

    Click here to read their road rules (in English). 

    Wikipedia has a fantastic overview of all the road signs in Norway. View it here.

    Laws & Regulations

    Drivers Licences

    Whether or not your driving licence is valid depends on the country you come from. If you are from the EU or European Economic Area, there is a mutual agreement meaning that if you have a valid driving licence from an EU/EEA nation, you can legally drive in Norway.

    For others, a foreign-issued driving licence is valid for up to three months, as long as the licence remains valid in the issuing country. This is not the case for those moving to Norway; just tourists.

    Basically, if your drivers licence is in Latin, you do not need an International Driving Licence. You need one if your licence is in another language that doesn’t use Latin (such as Arabic) or if your licence doesn’t have a photo.

    Source: Statens Vegvesen

    Mobile Phones

    Talking on mobile phones is prohibited.

    Drinking & Driving

    Drinking and driving is punished with severe penalties. The legal limit is 20 milligrams of alcohol per 100 millilitres of blood (or 0.02%). This is very low, so the general rule of thumb is to not drink any alcohol whatsoever if you will be driving.

    Car Requirements

    Lights

    You must use low-beam headlights at all times in Norway. Most rental cars will do this automatically. 

    Tyres

    Norway has rules for summer and winter tyres, but the rental company is responsible for having the correct tyres on. Nothing for you to worry about!

    Do not put chains on tyres. Trucks and heavy vehicles use chains in exceptional circumstances, but not passenger vehicles. 

    Parking Regulations

    It’s common to have to pay for parking on streets in major cities. Shopping malls often have paid parking but maybe the first two hours are free.

    Everything is becoming digital, and the same goes for parking. You have to download an app to pay for parking. The most common app in Norway is EasyPark, but there are several apps for paying for parking, so check when you get to the parking area.

    There are fines for parking violations and they can be over 700 NOK.

    The street sign of the red cross on a blue background means no stopping, while the street sign with the red diagonal line on a blue background means no parking. This applies until the next crossing road or until another sign ends it.

    Speed Limits & Speeding

    In Norway, speed signs are posted everywhere and the speeds here are generally lower than other countries.

    Highways are often 80km/h, especially in Western Norway. Around Oslo and in Northern Norway, dual carriageways and motorways will be 90 or 100km/h. Residential neighbourhoods may be as low as 30km/h and have lots of speed bumps, while commercial and urban areas are around 50km/h.

    Norwegians are very serious about speeding and for speeding or traffic violations, you may pay between 600 NOK and 7800 NOK. This includes speeding, not wearing a seatbelt, using a mobile phone, etc.

    When you enter a town, you’ll see the speed limit for that town. When you leave the town, you’ll see a sign with the speed limit crossed out. This basically means “end of speed limit, new limit is up to 80km/h depending on conditions”. This means that you don’t have to drive 80km/h if it isn’t safe; just anything up to 80km/h.

    Toll Roads/AutoPASS/Paying for Ferries

    When you pick up your rental car, it’ll have an AutoPASS device in it. This means you pass through toll cameras without stopping, and this will be included as an extra fee on your invoice from the car rental agency. Most ferries now also use the AutoPASS as payment for the ferry; they scan the tag when you drive onto the ferry.

    Tolls payment stations often (but not always) show the amount you are paying and will be marked by a blue sign with a ‘Kr’ on it. 

    In many places it is not possible to avoid toll roads. 

    Priority Roads

    This is a common rule in Europe but may trip up drivers from other countries. Unless indicated by a yellow diamond sign, vehicles approaching the intersection from the right have the right of way. That means if you are not on a priority road and someone is coming from the right, you need to slow down and let them in.

    The priority road sign is always after an intersection, so they are obvious to see. Almost every highway is a priority road, as are most main streets in towns.

    Be careful, though! If you see cars coming from the right and driving in front of you without hesitating, then you are probably not on a priority road. I learned this the hard way in Hammerfest, where the main road is not a priority road. 

    On the Road

    Let Others Pass You!

    In Norway, you are taught that if you are holding someone up on the road (maybe you are driving much slower than them), you must pull over and let them pass you. So many tourists (especially caravan drivers) come to Norway and don’t do that, and because of this they are getting a fairly negative reputation. So if you are driving and can see that you are holding someone up, pull over at the next safe spot and let them pass.

    Who to Give Way to

    Pedestrians always have the right of way at marked pedestrian crossings.

    If you are on a road where the speed limit is 60km/h or less, you must give way to all public buses if they are pulling out from a stop. Trams also have the right of way.

    Tunnels

    Norway has many tunnels (over 1,000!) and they are mostly in the western part and the mountainous regions. Road tunnels are typically two land and it’s important to keep to the speed limit inside.

    Mountain Passes

    Mountain passes are closed over winter and will close during severe storms in the summer months. They often have very long and winding downhill stretches, which may affect your vehicle.

    Tourist Attractions

    Any brown sign is a tourist attraction.

    Winter Driving

    If you are not used to driving on snow and ice, reconsider your need to go driving. There are growing accidents in the Arctic due to winter because of tourists looking for northern lights and driving in conditions they are not used to. It is not worth it!

    Wildlife

    In rural forested areas, beware of moose or deer near the roadside as they may suddenly jump into traffic. In the north of Norway, it’s common to have reindeer on the road.

  • Mistakes People Make When Observing the Northern Lights

    Mistakes People Make When Observing the Northern Lights

    At the moment I’m sitting in a hotel room in Rovaniemi hoping the clouds clear and my group can see some northern lights. It got me thinking about all the mistakes people make when observing the northern the lights, so I thought I should make a blog about it! Okay, I’m also trying to keep myself awake long enough to see them.

    I’ve been travelling to the Arctic to see the northern lights for eight seasons, and I feel like I have to give the same ‘reality check’ to every group I pick up. Many have the wrong expectations when coming to Northern Europe to seeing the northern lights, and one of the most important factors as a trip leader is to set realistic expectations. As an operator and agent, I feel it is even more important!

    Here are the common problems I find when people are booking northern lights trips, based on my experience. 

    In this article...

    Staying too far south

    People very often plan a trip to Norway to see the northern lights and stay too far south. People ask if it’s possible to see the northern lights in places like Oslo and Bergen. Tourism boards don’t help, either. They often use photos of the big cities under the northern lights in their marketing material. I live in Bergen and can tell you that we see the northern lights maybe once a month, but maybe in the city centre once or twice a season! The same goes for Oslo. Even Trondheim is too far south.

    I find cities on the Arctic Circle, such as Rovaniemi, can also be difficult because you are still technically quite far south. When you are further north, the strength of the lights doesn’t matter so much as they are guaranteed to reach there almost every night. When you are further south (but still within the Arctic Circle), you have to rely on the lights being a certain strength to reach you. It’s a fine art to planning where the right spot is, which is why it’s important to give yourself a lot of time in the north!

    Northern lights from my apartment in Bergen - this doesn't happen often!

    Going too far north doesn’t help, either

    The next problem is that people may go too far south. Svalbard is a fantastic place to see the lights, but often they are so strong that they actually go past Svalbard and can’t be seen there. Here’s a picture of the aurora belt as I write this article, and you’ll see the lights goes over Svalbard. 

    Many people may just look on a map and pick the northernmost spot they can get to – for example, Honningsvåg – but fail to recognise that many northern towns are prone to bad weather. Coastal Norway may be further north than somewhere like Saariselka or Abisko, but it’s prone to more clouds.

    That said, when the far north is clear, it’s practically guaranteed that you’ll see the northern lights. The best lights I’ve seen were just out of Båtsfjord, which is at 70 degrees north. However, Båtsfjord is on the Barents Sea and has many cloudy days. I just got lucky. In fact, this whole article can be summarised as “you have to just get lucky”, but that would be a boring read!

    My incredible northern lights night in Båtsfjord

    Picking the wrong place (or wrong time of year...)

    When looking for northern lights, there are two things that are important: Latitude and cloudy days. Look for somewhere that has few cloudy days.

    It’s also important to choose a place where you can do northern lights tours. It’s harder to see the lights in cities, so it’s important to get out with a guided tour to give yourself a good chance to see them.

    This may seem obvious to 99% of you, but you should also be aware that you can’t see the northern lights between mid-April and early August because it’s not dark enough. To see the lights you have to see stars, and that is not possible in those months because of the midnight sun. I’ve had people in July ask me if they can see the lights.

    The weather in December and January can be full of storms (it’s actually the rainiest time of year for some parts of Northern Norway), so the cloud coverage is often pretty consistent. When researching locations, also check how many rainy days on average they have. Abisko in Sweden actually has the most clear nights of anywhere in the aurora belt.

    You want to be in a place that is high with a wide sky – which is why Norway can be a problem with all the mountains. Lofoten is not a good place to see the lights (though they do appear there and the mountains make for spectacular photos!).

    I prefer high, wide and flat areas with little cloudy days. Wide skies and good visibility make a huge difference. 

    I came across this stock image and have so many questions. It's already cold enough out there - no need to get n the water!

    Not dressing appropriately (or being too impatient)

    I find it so frustrating when people spend years saving and then planning a northern lights tour, only to give up within the first 15 minutes of being outside because it’s too cold. Come on, you’re in the Arctic in winter! Dress appropriately.

    It is freezing cold in the winter (it’s -20C now in Rovaniemi) and standing still makes it feel even colder.

    Also – be patient! You may be standing outside for over an hour waiting for northern lights. They don’t come on with the flick of a light switch. Don’t give up after the first five minutes.

    Not staying long enough

    When I do my walking tours in Bergen, I meet many people who tell me they are flying to Tromsø for one or two nights before heading to Oslo or somewhere else. That’s crazy. I’ve been above the Arctic Circle for a week now, and we have had lights twice in that week. What I’m saying is that you need to give yourself time. You need at least five days in the Arctic to give yourself a strong chance of seeing the lights.

    Additionally, if the skies are clear and you’re above the arctic circle, don’t give up and head inside after 15 minutes! Sometimes it takes the lights a couple hours to appear, or sometimes it takes your eyes time to adjust to the darkness. 

    My attempted selfie under the northern lights - November 2023

    Not booking a northern lights tour

    If you are serious about seeing the northern lights, you will book a tour. Many people fly to Tromsø and hope to see the lights from the city centre. It does happen, but not frequently. And the lights are never as bright in the cities because of light pollution. You need to get out to the countryside, and the way to do that is with a tour. They will drive you to where they are sure the lights will be seen. Nothing is better than that. Some tours will even teach you how to photograph the lights. Some companies even provide the appropriate clothing.

    Relying on apps or alarms

    Some people download all the northern lights apps and expect the apps to tell them when the lights are out. Some of the best lights I had were when the apps told me I had a 7% chance of seeing them! I got amazing northern lights in Ålesund and Hurtigruten never set off its northern lights alarm. If you want to see the lights, get out and look with your eyes.

    The best chance of seeing the northern lights is to go out and look for extended periods of time.

    Not having the right camera gear

    Not every camera takes the professional quality photos. Many point and shoot cameras will not pick up the northern lights, and many smart phones also can’t capture them. You need to have a DSLR camera (with a tripod!) that has a low F-stop (I use 1.4 but anything under 2.5 works) to be able to capture the lights. I use a wide angle lens especially for the lights. High-end iPhones and other smart phones can capture the lights pretty well.

    Also, make sure flash is turned off. It ruins not just your photos but everyone elses. 

    This guide perfectly summarises mistakes people make when photographing the lights. 

    If you have a phone that’s more than a few years old, or you have a cheaper digital camera, chances are that you won’t be able to photograph the northern lights. 

    Be patient!

    Sometimes it takes time for the lights to make their entrance. Or sometimes they are very weak to begin with, but will explode with colours and dancing a couple hours later. It’s important to be prepared to watch for 2+ hours outside and have some patience. 

    Managing expectations

    The northern lights never look like the pictures when you’re looking at them in person. The lights are often a grey-ish colour and become a muted green if they are very strong. Very rarely will you see the purple or bright green with your eyes. 10% of people will never seen the green. Phones and cameras pick up the colours a lot better than our eyes can. The camera will often pick up the lights before you can see them with your eyes.

    Also, the intensity and the frequency of the lights varies a lot depending on atmospheric conditions and solar activity. The science is a lot more complicated, and factors like speed, density and solar storms weigh in a lot to what the lights will look like.

    Also, just because you are far north and have a clear night sky doesn’t mean you’ll see the northern lights.

    Get away from light pollution!

    Okay, you’ve just received an alert that there’s a good chance of northern lights. Get away from light pollution! Light pollution greatly impacts how strong the northern lights look to the eye and in photographs. 

    Try and find somewhere in total darkness. If you have a car, drive out of town. If you can, book a northern lights tours. Hike up a hill. 

    Left: Northern lights from by the glass igloos (not my photo – one of my group members)

    Right: 10 minute walk from the glass igloos out on a frozen lake

    Mistakes people make when observing the northern lights

    That’s all I can think of. Sadly as I wrote this Rovaniemi got cloudy. So now we won’t see some lights. But that’s part of the adventure!

    I hope this was beneficial to you. Remember that you can reach out to me if you want help planning a northern lights trip, or you can read our northern lights travel guide. 

  • The Skolt Sami & Skoltebyen in Neiden

    The Skolt Sami & Skoltebyen in Neiden

    The Skolt Sami, also often called the Eastern Sami, are a minority group within the Sami community that follow the Eastern Orthodox religion. Their centre in Norway is located about 40 minutes from Kirkenes at a place called Neiden, and within the village is a cultural heritage site called Skoltebyen, or the Skolt Town. It is regarded as one of the best-preserved cultural heritage monuments in the whole of Northern Norway. 

    What makes it so special?

    So many things! The Skolt Sami themselves are a unique group with their own culture separate from other Sami groups, and the buildings that have been preserved as some of the oldest wooden buildings in Finnmark.

    As part of my trip across Eastern Finnmark in September 2023 I visited Skoltebyen to learn a little more about the Skolt Sami. Here’s my guide if you wish to visit the site too. 

    In this article...

    The E6 Highway

    Neiden is located on the E6, Norway’s main highway. You can find my guide to the E6 by clicking the link below. 

    About the Skolt Sami

    Who are the Skolt Sami?

    The Skolt Sami are a distinct indigenous group with a rich cultural heritage, residing in the northernmost regions of Finland, Norway, and Russia. Despite their relatively small population, the Skolt Sami people have managed to preserve their unique traditions and way of life in the face of numerous challenges, making them an inspiring example of cultural resilience and adaptation. The Skolt Sami are unique from other Sami groups as they have been more closely inspired by Russian culture and traditions. They follow the Eastern Orthodox faith compared to other Sami groups who follow the Lutheran faith. 

    Historically, the Skolt Sami were semi-nomadic reindeer herders, but their traditional livelihoods have evolved over time. Today, many Skolt Sami people are involved in reindeer herding, fishing, hunting, and small-scale agriculture. These activities are deeply intertwined with their cultural identity, as the natural environment plays a central role in their traditions.

    Skolt Sami Drawing from 1871

    Forced Settlement and Assimilation

    The Skolt Sami have faced numerous challenges throughout their history, including forced assimilation, displacement, and suppression of their language and culture.

    The Skolt Sami used to move freely throughout Norway, Finland and Russia. They moved within a large geographical area – from the Varangerfjord to almost the tip of the Kola Peninsula. 

    In 1826 ,the Norway-Russia border was established by treaty and Sør-Varanger was the last land area to be incorporated into the kingdom of Norway. The border drawings led to a separation of the Skolt Sami families who lived here. It is believed that the Skolt Sami families who settled in Norway chose to do so because of the rich salmon fishing in the Neiden River. Most Skolt Sami settled in Russia, however. 

    The most significant disruption occurred during the Soviet era when they were forcibly relocated to different areas in Russia, away from their ancestral lands. The Skolt Sami in Russia do not get the same protections as the Skolt Sami in Norway, and a lot of their culture is considered endangered. 

    Skolt Sami Today

    Despite these challenges, the Skolt Sami have shown remarkable resilience. In recent years, there has been a revival of Skolt Sami cultural practices, including language revitalisation programs, cultural festivals, and educational initiatives. Efforts are underway to preserve their unique cultural heritage, and there has been a resurgence in Skolt Sami identity and pride.

    There are estimated to be around 1,000 Skolt Sami living in Norway, Finland and Russia. The number in Norway is very small. The Skolt Sami language is considered to be highly endangered and is not actively spoken in Neiden. 

    The Importance of Neiden

    Neiden had been known to the Skolt Sami long before the borders were laid out, which is evident by the fact that many of the buildings here are older than the land borders. There were seven Skolt Sami communities that travelled through Neiden throughout the seasons, and they spent some time at Neiden because of the rich salmon river. 

    Originally the settlement spread across the Norwegian and Finnish border, but in 1852 Neiden was split in two. The reason for the separation was the tready between the Kingdom of Sweden-Norway and the Grand Duchy o fFinland, which prohibited nomadic reindeer herding and fishermen moving over the border.

    The Skolt Sami who settled at Neiden considered the land to be common between all the families, as part of the culture prohibits land ownership. However, in 1903 the residents were visited by the sheriff who told them that the Skolt Sami settlement in Neiden had to be divided into five equal parts and that each family should own their part. The division was carried out and it destroyed the common principle that the Sami had held onto for hundreds of years. Fights broke out amongst the five families. From being almost dominant in their areas, they became poorer and poorer. Neiden is considered to be one of the poorest regions in Finnmark and the Skolt Sami have one of the lowest education levels in Finnmark. 

    Neiden Chapel

    A true testament to the forced assimilation of the Skolt Sami is Neiden Chapel. The chapel was built in 1902 and represents Norwegian sovereignty over the area. Many Norwegian farmers had requested a Lutheran church be built here, and the government wanted to secure the border from Finnish-Russian expansion, so it was an easy decision. 

    The church was deliberately designed to look like a Norwegian stave church as it is an expression of Norwegian culture and national cohesion on the border. At the time, there were “Norwegianisation” policies in place to try and force the Sami people to convert to a more Norwegian culture.

    Skoltebyen

    Now we get to Skoltebyen. The area where those five Skolt Sami families settled is now a protected cultural heritage site called Skoltebyen. It came under cultural protection in 2000. The site contains a self-guided walking trail with a number of different monuments, including a Russian Orthodox graveyard, the ruins of a smoke sauna, sixteen sites of traditional turf huts known as gammer and a tiny Russian Orthodox chapel called St. Georg’s Chapel. 

    All together, the site represents the permanent settlement that came after the borders were defined. Only one person lives here now, compared to the several families that used to be here. 

    The site has been protected because of its historic and religious important, and today it is the most important cultural heritage site for the Skolt Sami and their surviving culture in Norway. The goal is to communicate, maintain and develop the Skolt Sami culture. 

    When you arrive at the site, there is a large parking lot where you can park for free. You can also look at a map that shows you where all the sites are.

    Here are the highlights. 

    Skolt Sami Burial Ground

    The first point of interest is just after the car park. This is a historic burial ground for the Skolt Sami who settled here. In 1915 the Anatomical Institute did some excavations here and removed the remains of 94 people. They studied the skulls especially, trying to understand what makes the Sami people different. The oldest remains were from the 14th century. 

    Burial Mound

    Near the burial ground is the burial mound with a small house with an Orthodox cross on the roof. The mound has the excavated remains that were taken back in 1915. The remains were placed back here during a ceremonial and physical reburial in 2011, with an apology from the Norwegian authorities about what had been done. 

    St. Georg's Chapel

    The highlight of the site is St. Georg’s Chapel. It was built in 1565 and is only 10m2. It was not built for liturgical use, but was probably built as a prayer house and burial chapel. 

    The chapel is dedicated to St. Tryphon of Pechenga, an important Russian historic figure. He was a Russian monk in the Eastern Orthodox Church who is considered to be the “Enlightener of the Sami” as he worked a lot across the Kola Peninsula as well as the area in Norway and Russia. He built many churches in the area to convert the Sami, but today St. Georg’s Chapel is the only one still standing. 

    The interior of the chapel has 16 Russian panel icons, an altar and old Orthodox crosses that come from the cemetery. 

    Annual fairs at the chapel were discontinued in 1925 and after that the chapel was used as a storehouse and shed by the locals. During World War II, the Nazis used it as an ammunition storage building. 

    Skolt Sami Museum

    The Skolt Sami Museum is located in Neiden on the other side of town from Skoltebyen. The museum is a collection of artefacts from the Skolt Sami period. Much like Skoltebyen, the purpose of the museum is to strengthen the Skolt Sami culture, language and identity. 

    Conclusion & Further Reading

    Overall I really enjoyed visiting Neiden and Skoltebyen. While it is small and very basic, there’s no denying the significance of the site and importance to the Skolt Sami people. There is a certain sadness to visiting the site, especially considering everything that happened to the Skolt Sami 100 years ago. However, the fact that today it’s possible to visit the site and learn a little makes it special and meaningful. 

    While researching this article I came across a number of excellent articles about the Skolt Sami and Neiden. 

    Here’s one from Riksantikvaren: https://www.riksantikvaren.no/kulturhistorie/skoltebyen-i-neiden-bare-i-finnmark/

    And here’s a blog post from someone who visited the site: https://norge.sandalsand.net/skoltebyen-og-st-georgs-kapell-i-neiden/

    Have you been to Skoltebyen? Please mention if you have in the comments section below. Feel free to ask any questions too. 

    The E6 Highway

    Neiden is located on the E6, Norway’s main highway. You can find my guide to the E6 by clicking the link below. 

  • A Brief History of the Pomor Trade

    A Brief History of the Pomor Trade

    When you visit Northern Norway, chances are you’ll come across something called the Pomor Trade. When I first started visiting Finnmark, I would typically disregard any mention of the Pomors as a small part of history here that had little importance. However, after visiting Vardø back in September 2023, I came to realise just how vital the Pomors had been to the development of Northern Norway.

    I’ve put together this article as a short historic overview of the Pomors. Perhaps it’ll benefit your own trip to Northern Norway!

    In this article...

    What is a Pomor?

    This took me way too long to figure out. A “Pomor” is actually an ethnographic group that come from Russian settlers from around the region of Novgorod. They came to the White Sea region hundreds of years ago, following the various river systems through Russia. The word ‘Pomor’ derives from the word ‘Pomorsky’ (which means ‘maritime’) and is a word used to describe the coast of the White Sea. 

    Historic Trade Between Russia and Norway & Development of the Pomor Trade

    The people of Norway and Russia have been trading for hundreds of years. In fact, it can be traced back to the Viking Age. The Russians were known to also trade with the Sami people. 

    Trade between Russians and the Norwegians began to come into its modern form when the trade monopoly in Bergen was legalised. Basically, the King said that all foreign merchants had to go to Bergen, and all fishermen had to sell their catch in Bergen. 

    However, for the fishermen this was tough. In the colder months it was no problem as the fish could stay preserved for the long journey, but for a few weeks over the summer the temperatures were too warm and the fish risked going bad.

    The Pomors found a way to exploit this – they could buy the fish directly from the fishermen (back then it was common to go through a middleman, which also drove up prices). It benefitted the fishermen, too – they could sell direct, the fish wouldn’t go bad, and they were able to get supplies from the Pomors without having to all the way to Bergen. Was it a little illegal? Sure. But back then Northern Norway didn’t have much law enforcement, so they were able to get away with it. 

    The beginning of the Pomor Trade and important trade connections

    The beginning of the Pomor Trade is generally regarded to be in the early 18th century, simply because trade began to become more organised. 

    At first, the trade was a barter trade between people in the area, who traded grain products from Russia with fish products from Norway. However, money began to be used in the early 18th century, and in some places in Northern Norway the ruble was used as a currency. Trading with the Pomors also originally had no taxes or customs fees. 

    The trade always involved the Pomors coming to Norway; the Norwegians rarely travelled to Russia. The Pomors would bring wheats and grains, but starting in the 18th century they began bringing rye flour, which was important for the Norwegians and another reason the Pomor trade officially began around that time. The grain was grown inland around the Volga River and then transported along the White Sea. 

    The trade of grain was vital for the Norwegians as it doesn’t grow along the coast. Also, in Norway in the 18th century there were several crop failures and the price of rye in Bergen increased fivefold. For the fishermen, having the Pomors come directly to them and selling the grains and flour at good prices was essential for survival. 

    In addition to rye and wheat flour, the Pomors carried other food, such as oatmeal, salt, peas, meat and dairy products. Other useful merchandise was also carried, such as iron, timber, tar, birch bark, candles, cooking pots, hemp, rope and canvas. They also brought luxury products, such as candy, soap, porcelain and wood carvings.

    From the Norwegians they would take fish of various sorts, mainly Atlantic cod and dry saithe, but also Atlantic halibut and haddock.

    Where did they trade?

    The main centre of the Pomor Trade in Norway was Vardø, which is located close to the Russian border. The harbour in Vardø could at times have over 100 Russian vessels moored simultaneously, and the town had a Russian consulate. 

    Other towns that were important for the Pomors include Hamningberg (a now abandoned fishing village) and Hammerfest, though the Pomors did trade in other places like Vadsø and Kjøllefjord. Tromsø gained trading privileges a few years later and was given the monopoly for trading with the Pomors in the region of Troms. Eventually the Pomors were trading as far south as the Lofoten Islands. 

    In Russia, the city of Arkangelsk was the centre of Pomor Trade, and it was founded in 1584 as a trade centre for the White Sea. 

    Arkangelsk 1896

    Attempts at Regulation

    As the Pomor Trade grew somewhat illegally, when Norwegian sovereignty was enforced over Northern Norway, there began to be attempts to control the Pomor Trade. 

    Already back in 1316 the King of the time, King Håkon V, prevented foreigners from trading in Northern Norway. All foreign ships had to stop in Bergen. 

    Until the Reformation in 1537, the trade between the North and the Hanseatic League in Bergen was controlled by the archbishop in Trondheim. After the Reformation, the privileges of trade were handed from the church to the citizens of Bergen and Trondheim, giving them a monopoly. 

    There are reports of Russians trading illegally from the 17th century onwards. If the Russians and Norwegians were caught trading outside of Bergen, the Norwegians would be denied winter supplies from Norwegian traders. This lasted until 1715. 

    In the late 18th century, trade was placed under control of the King and trading houses of Copenhagen. In 1783 the government in Copenhagen decided that the Pomor Trade should be somewhat legalised, and that North Norwegians should get their grain from the Russians rather than Denmark. The Danish King Christian VII gave Vardø, Hammerfest and Tromsø status of trading towns in order to regulate the Pomor trade better. 

    However, there was one thing in the way. The fact that the Pomors could trade freely with the fishermen was bad for the government, who were missing out on their precious taxes. So, it was made illegal. Eventually it was made legal again, but the Pomors could only trade directly with fishermen in the short weeks where the warm climate makes it difficult to preserve fish. 

    Napoleonic Wars

    The Pomor Trade was targeted by the British during the Napoleonic Wars. During the Gunboat War, the United Kingdom put a trade embargo on Denmark-Norway. This made the Pomor Trade almost essential for survival for the North Norwegians, and they got a special decree legalising direct trade between the Pomors and fishermen in 1809. 

    During the Anglo-Russian War, the British government established a blockade along the Norwegian coast. One of their goals was to stop the Pomor Trade and cut off supply lines of goods from Arkangelsk. The Norwegians responded by fortifying the important harbours, such as Hammerfest. In 1810, the Norwegians established a special naval squadron called “The Finnmark Squadron” to protect the Pomor Trade.

    However, despite all this the British did manage to bomb and heavily damage Hammerfest. 

    The Golden Age and Rapid End

    Throughout the 19th century the conditions in Norway began to improve and the dependence on grain from Russia began to decline. Eventually the trade privileges and rules were lifted in 1870, and the Pomors were more or less free to come as they please. These lighter regulations led to the Pomors modernising their vessels and by 1870, 400 Russian Pomor vessels visited Tromsø. Normally 300 vessels would visit all of Norway in one year. By 1900, Russia was Norway’s fourth most important trade partner, and rye flour remained the most important commodity. After 1910, less flour was traded, and the Russians paid for the fish with money instead. 

    Things sounded like they were going well, but everything ended abruptly in 1917, when the Russian Revolution ended all trade. This had understandable negative effects on the economy of Northern Norway, especially for the coastal communities as the fishermen no longer had the possibility to see their summer catch. Some Russian vessels still did come. The last vessel came in 1929, when Joseph Stalin’s collectivization came into full effect, ending private property rights and persecuting merchants. 

    Lasting impact of the Pomors

    It’s important to not understate the lasting effect the Pomor Trade had on the coastal communities in Northern Norway. Many of the villages along the Finnmark coast developed in the 19th century thanks to the Pomor Trade, and were able to afford luxuries they otherwise wouldn’t get. It also led to a good relationship between the two countries, and in 1875 there was even a regular steamship service between Arkangelsk and Vardø. This allowed for Russian tourism and seasonal workers in Finnmark. 

    Often the same Pomor vessels would visit the same place year after year, and the Norwegians got to know the crew. The Russians and the trade with them had high esteem in Northern Norway and they were known for being friendly. The people of Northern Norway also got an insight into a difficult culture and it in turn affected Norwegian culture. 

    Lastly, and also perhaps most interesting, a pidgin language developed between the Pomors and the North Norwegians called Russenorsk. Russenorsk has a restricted grammar mostly related to Arctic fishing and trading. You can find some examples of Russenorsk on Wikipedia: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Russenorsk

    Where to go from here

    If you want to learn more about the Pomor Trade, visit the city of Vardø, which is home to the Pomor Museum. The city also has wooden warehouses still standing from the Pomor time. You can read about Vardø on our travel guide page. 

    Please leave any questions or comments below!

  • Explore Vardø on a Self-Guided Walking Tour

    Norway's Easternmost City: Vardø Self-Guided Walking Tour

    Welcome to our Vardø self-guided walking tour! Located in the far north-eastern part of Norway, Vardø is a fascinating but harsh little city. Situated on an island just off the mainland, the city is often exposed to bad weather coming in from the Barents Sea. Still, there’s something charming about this community. 

    Vardø is also a historic city. There has been a settlement here for hundreds, if not thousands, of years, and the Vardøhus Fortress has a history going back to the 13th century. Vardø emerged as an important fishing harbour and trading site with the Pomors from Russia. 

    This walk is designed to give you the highlights of Vardø. The vast majority of readers will likely be arriving with the coastal ferry, so time is very limited and you probably only have time to visit the fortress. For everyone, this guide is worth following. Vardø is a small city, but there’s little information around the buildings. 

    For a historic overview of Vardø, visit our dedicated travel guide page. 

    Enjoy this Vardø self-guided walking tour!

    In this article...

    Varanger Tourist Road

    Vardø is located on the E75, also known as the Varanger Tourist Road. You can find my guide to the E76 by clicking the link below. 

    Norway's Coastal Ferry

    Vardø is a port of call of Norway’s coastal ferry. Find my guide for the coastal ferry by clicking the link below. 

    Downloadable Version of This Guide

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided walks on our online store. 

    Coming soon

    Online Guide

    Downloadable Guide

    Vardø Self-Guided Walking Tour

    This walk begins outside Vardø Hotel. 

    Vardø Self-Guided Walk

    Nordpol Kro

    Nordpol Kro is a fitting place to start. It is Northern Norway’s oldest inn – dating back to the mid-19th century. At the turn of the 20th century, it was the only decent accommodation available in Eastern Finnmark. The building is built of Russian timber from Archangelsk, which was the hub of the Pomor Trade that Vardø also participated in. 

    The Brodtkorb family were the original innkeepers of Vardø. 

    The inn has an interesting link to Fritjof Nansen – it was the last place he stayed before he set off on the Fram 2 expedition towards the North Pole in 1889. 

    Vardø Self-Guided Walk

    Hurtigruten Pier

    Vardø is a port of call for Norway’s coastal ferry. The northbound ferry docks at around 3am, while the southbound ferry comes in around 4pm. 

    On the pier you’ll find signs advertising excursions out to the bird cliffs. This part of Finnmark is famous for its bird watching, but in order to see some of the more unique species, you need to take an excursion out to the bird cliffs. 

    Around the pier area is a lot of street art. Street art has become relatively famous in Vardø thanks to a number of highly regarded artworks.

    A lot of the artworks are from 2012, when the street artist Pøbel from Stavanger was allowed to invite 11 artists from around the world to participate in a festival where they would have free reign to paint on the abandoned buildings of Vardø. This project was done in collaboration with the North Norwegian Art Centre. The festival was known as “Komafest” as it was an attempt to breathe life back into the city. Several other street artists were invited to paint on the buildings too. On the Codfather photo above, you can see the name of the festival. 

    The text “Laks er viktig for Norge” means “Salmon is important for Norway”. 

    Vardø Self-Guided Walk
    Vardø Self-Guided Walk

    Vardøhus Fortress

    The first fortification in Vardø was built in the first half of the 14th century. Northern Norway was then in conflict with the Russian Republic of Novgorod. The facility was a square walled castle and inside the fortified area were a number of buildings. The original fortress was located on the other side of the city, however.

    In 1599, King Christian IV made a voyage to Finnmark. After a peace treaty between Russia and Sweden four years earlier, the Swedes had been given the right to demand taxes from the Sami, and soon they claimed the area of Finnmark was theirs. King Christian IV visited Vardø to asset Danish-Norwegian sovereignty over the region. When he visited the fortress, he described it as “the wretched fort and wooden church that our barber thought was a reindeer”. The fortress was subsequently rebuilt.

    The current fort was completed in 1738. Within the fortress walls there are a number of buildings from before 1825. Today it is under the command of the Norwegian Armed Forces and is open during the day. It is possible to enter for a small fee.

    During World War II, the fortress was in battle and saved the coastal radio station from being bombed. This was the last place in Norway to surrender to the Nazis before five years of occupation. The Nazis were chased out of Vardø in October 1944 when the area was liberated by the Soviets.

    Vardøhus Fortress is regarded as the northernmost fortress in the world.

    Vardø Self-Guided Walk

    Vardø Chapel

    Vardø Chapel is one of the few buildings to survive the destruction during World War II. I tis from 1908 and there is very little information about its early use. It was restored in the 1990s and is incredibly popular with weddings and baptisms.

    Vardø Self-Guided Walk

    Steilneset Memorial

    The monument here is to reflect on the tragic burning of women accused of witchcraft in Vardø. Nearly 90 victims were burned here. Vardø was one of the worst areas in Europe when it comes to the witch hunts, and this is partly to do with the Sami population but also Vardø’s location at what feels like the end of the world.

    The monument is a 100m long hall designed by the French-American artist Louise Bourgeoise and the Swiss architect Peter Zumthor. It is open 24/7 and free to enter.

    Vardø Self-Guided Walk

    When you enter, you will see banners on each side with the name of one of the victims. The text (in Norwegian) describes what they were accused of. By the door is a small booklet with English translations. 

    Tunnel to the Mainland & Butterfly Shape

    After leaving Steilneset, make your way down to the tunnel that connects the island to the mainland. The tunnel is a subsea tunnel and is 2,892 metres long and the deepest point is 88 metres below sea level. The tunnel opened in 1983.

    You will notice that Vardø is shaped like a butterfly – two islands connected by a small piece of land. You are now going to cross that piece of land onto the other island. There is a modern building on this piece of land – it is the culture house. 

    Vardø Self-Guided Walk

    Vardø Church

    Vardø Church was completed in 1958. It is the fourth church to stand in Vardø, though not necessarily in the same spot. The first church was built in 1307 and is believed to be the first church to be built in Finnmark. It was built at the same time as the fortress and stood somewhere near the current church site. It was demolished in 1711 and a new church opened three years later. However, the materials from the church were used to build houses and a new church had to be completed in 1869. This was the one destroyed by Nazis during the scorched earth policy.

    Pomor Museum in Vardø

    Pomor Buildings & Museum

    The yellow and red wooden buildings make up part of the Pomor Museum. The Pomor Trade was an important period of trade between Northern Norway and the north-western part of Russia that lasted throughout the 19th century until the Russian revolution. These are original trading houses that were able to survive the destruction of World War II. The museum is fantastic and worth visiting.

    You can find information about the museum here: https://www.varangermuseum.no/en/

    Back at Vardø Hotel

    The Pomor Museum is located close to the Vardø Hotel, where this walk began. I hope you enjoyed this walk around Vardø. 

    Varanger Tourist Road

    Vardø is located on the E75, also known as the Varanger Tourist Road. You can find my guide to the E76 by clicking the link below. 

    Norway's Coastal Ferry

    Vardø is a port of call of Norway’s coastal ferry. Find my guide for the coastal ferry by clicking the link below. 

  • Drive it Yourself: Oslo to Kristiansand on the E18

    Drive it Yourself: Oslo to Kristiansand on the E18

    Drive from Oslo to Kristiansand on the E18! The E18 is a major highway running through Scandinavia. Starting over in St. Petersburg, the highway travels across Finland and via ferry to Stockholm, where it can then be followed all the way to Kristiansand. There used to be a ferry across to England, which is where the E18 continues over to Ireland, however the ferry is no longer operating. Still, it is an interesting highway to follow.

    This guide follows the stretch from Oslo to Kristiansand. Along the way, you pass a number of interesting historic port communities, and many are worth spending time in. The drive from Oslo to Kristiansand isn’t long – only 4 hours – but allow an extra day or two so you can enjoy all the stops along the way. 

    In this article...

    Download this Guide

    All of our guides can be downloaded via our online store. 

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

    Online Guide
    Downloadable Guide

    Oslo to Kristiansand on the E18

    Oslo

    This drive begins in Oslo, Norway’s capital city. You can find a detailed overview of Oslo via our dedicated travel guide page. 

    Oslo's Neighbourhoods

    Neighbourhoods

    As you drive out of Oslo you will pass the affluent neighbourhoods of Sandvika and Asker. 

    Lier Municipality

    Lier municipality is known for its agriculture, and is regularly nicknamed the strawberry municipality, or the apple and vegetable municipality. It has also been nicknamed ‘the green lung between Oslo and Drammen’. 

    Lierskogen

    Village

    This is the easternmost part of the Lier municipality. Lierskogen is an active agricultural village with the production of milk, meat and sheep farming. 

    Drammen Municipality

    Drammen municipality is the first municipality you’ll pass through. It is named after Drammen, the city and centre of the municipality.

    Drammen is located where the Drammen River flows into the fjord. The river has been important for timber trade for hundreds of years, and thanks to this Drammen developed into one of Eastern Norway’s most important maritime and trading towns. 

    During the Viking Age, the area was called Dramm, a Norse word that can mean ‘waves’. In the Norse sagas, it is written that Olav the Holy (St. Olav) hid from Knut the Mighty in the Dramm fjord. Oslo’s Saint Hallvard is also from Drammen – he was killed and sunk in the Drammensfjord in 1043. 

    Drammen

    Drammen is today the fifth largest city in Norway, with a population of 111,000. It is also one of the fasted growing urban regions in the country. Despite this rapid modern growth, Drammen does have some interesting places to visit, as well as an interesting history. Read about Drammen on our dedicated travel guide page. 

    Vestfold og Telemark County

    You now cross into Vestfold and Telemark County. The two used to be two individual counties, but in 2020 they were merged under a government restructure. However, they are planning to separate again. So, you are technically just in Vestfold County!

    Holmestrand Municipality

    The area around Holmestrand has long been connected to timber trade and the construction of sailing ships. The Dutch first came to the area to trade timber in 1550, and Holmestrand grew quickly. You can visit the historic pier in the town centre. 

    Today Holmestrand is regarded as a popular holiday destination due to its proximity to some nice beaches. The first spa was built here in 1840. 

    Holmestrand town has a population of 8,000 people. 

    Detour: Tønsberg

    Tønsberg is a short detour off the E18 but is well worth it – it is regarded as Norway’s oldest town and was founded before the year 871. It was an important centre during the Viking Age. Some sites survive from old times, and there’s a great museum in town. 

    Sandefjord Municipality

    Sandefjord is known for its rich Viking history and is where one of the Viking ships at the Viking Ship Museum in Oslo were found – the Gokstad Ship. However, Sandefjord also developed as an important whaling centre and now has Europe’s only museum dedicated to whaling. 

    Today Sandefjord municipality is a popular summer destination for Norwegians and there are ferries linking the municipality to Germany and Denmark. 

    Sandefjord

    Sandefjord is worth spending some time in – the museums are wonderful and the town itself is charming. Learn about Sandefjord via our dedicated travel guide below. 

    Larvik Municipality

    Larvik municipality has a population of around 48,000 and like the other communities we have passed through, is today known as a popular summer spot for Norwegians.

    Larvik does have an interesting history, too. Remains from the Stone Age have been found here and during the Roman Iron Age, ancient peoples erected a stone monument resembling a ship at Istrehågen, and this is today regarded as one of Norway’s greatest remains from prehistoric times. 

    Larvik was a Danish county until 1817. The rest of Norway had come under Danish rule, and four local businessmen bought the county in 1817, making it part of Norway. 

    The highway passes by the town of Larvik. 

    Porsgrunn Municipality

    Porsgrunn was first mentioned in historic documents in 1576, but has been a place long before then. The area became an important harbour town in the late 16th century, and Porsgrunn was the home of some of Norway’s most influential families. For a while, Porsgrunn was considered the cultural centre of Norway.

    The processing industry is the biggest industry in the municipality, and Yara – one of the world’s largest mineral fertiliser factories – is located here. 

    Porsgrunn

    Porsgrunn is a town with a population of 35,000 and is the outlet of the Telemark Canal, so makes for a nice place to visit. 

    Kragerø

    Village

    Kragerø is a worthwhile detour  – it was referred to as ‘the pearl among coastal towns’ by Edvard Grieg, after all. At one point, it was one of Norway’s largest shipping towns. The village today is spread over both sides of the Bysundet strait and is a charming place to stop at. 

    Agder County

    Agder country stretches across the southern part of Norway. It is also commonly referred to as Sørlandet, or “the South”. 

    Agder was one of the petty kingdoms during the Viking Age, and the place is mentioned in teh Old Norse sagas. 

    Gjerstad Municipality

    The municipality of Gjerstad has been inhabited since the Stone Age, and the place was important during the Viking Age. Agriculture has been important here for centuries, and timber also provided a good income for many people.

    Risør Municipality

    Risør municipality is primarily a tourist municipality thanks to the lakes, hills and coastline. 

    In the first week of August, there is a wooden boat festival and the municipality has a growing reputation as the regional capital of arts and crafts. 

    The village of Risør has existed for a long time, and the Dutch began coming in the 16th century to trade timber. The village has a Baroque Church from 1647. 

    Sadly the whole town was destroyed by fire in 1861 and has been completely reconstructed since then. 

    You do not pass through Risør; rather, it is a short detour off the E18 highway. 

    After passing through the village of Akland, you will go through the Sørlands Portal – a tunnel marking the beginning of Southern Norway. 

    Tvedestrand Municipality

    Tvedestrand municipality is a historic municipality with the centre being the village of Tvedestrand. One of the oldest buildings in the municipality is Holt Church, which dates from the 12th century and has an ancient baptismal font.

    Tvedestrand

    Village

    Tvedestrand town is only a short detour off the E18 and is worth visiting. The town centre has white wooden houses with irregular streets built on steep hills around the harbour, making it a beautiful village. Around 2,000 buildings are more than 100 years old. It is a popular summer place for Norwegians because of the numerous islands and nice scenery. There are around 1,700 summer cottages here.

    Arendal Municipality

    Arendal municipality is a sizeable municipality with 45,000 people living here. It was mentioned for the first time as an important port in documents from 1528. 

    Arendal

    Arendal is commonly referred to as the ‘Venice of the North’ as the historic town is built on seven islets. Visit our dedicated travel guide page below. 

    Skaggerak Coast

    Coast

    Skagerakk is the strait that runs between the Jutland peninsula of Denmark and the southeast coast of Norway. It is one of the busiest shipping routes in the world because it is the passage from the North Sea to the Baltic Sea. It was historically the only entrance to the Baltic Sea, but since 1784 there has been the Eider Canal.

    Grimstad Municipality

    Grimstad municipality is centred around the coastal village of Grimstad, which has a harbour, church and museum dedicated to Henrik Ibsen. After all, Ibsen worked as an apprentice in the pharmacy before leaving the town in 1850. Ibsen’s knowledge of the people and surroundings of Grimstad can be seen in the poem Terje Vigen.

    Grimstad has been known for a long time, but it was recognised as a harbour town in 1622. By 1747, Grimstad had a sizeable sailing community and was a known place for smugglers.

    Grimstad

    Grimstad is a historic harbour town and a nice place to visit on your road-trip. Visit our dedicated road-trip page below. 

    Lillesand Municipality

    Lillesand municipality is centred around the town of Lillesand. It is one of the more modern ports along the Skaggerak coast as it was established in 1821. However, at the time it had nine shipyards. The end of sailing ships caused huge economic difficulties for the municipality as sailing ships were inexpensive due to the use of timber, whereas steamships required steel that was expensive. Many people from Lillesand ended up emigrating to the United States.

    In Lillesand you’ll find the National Park Skjærgårdsparken, which is spread out across islands, skerries and rocks. There’s also a Maritime Museum about the history of the municipality.

    Kristiansand Municipality

    Well, Kristiansand has one of the more impressive coat-of-arms I’ve seen!

    Kristiansand was established in 1641 and is named after the Danish-Norwegian King Christian IV (who also renamed Oslo after himself to Kristiania). The city is strategically located on the Skaggerak coast and used to be an important military base as all traffic had to pass here in and out of the Baltic Sea.

    Kristiansand

    You have made it to Kristiansand, the end of the drive on the E18. Kristiansand is an interesting historic city, so be sure to head over to our dedicated travel guide page to learn more. 

    Write any questions or comments you have in the section below!