Emma

Hey! My name is Emma. I'm from Australia but have lived in Bergen, Norway, for the last eight years. I work as a local guide and tour leader for all over Northern Europe. The Hidden North is an online travel guide I have made to help you plan your own visit here.

  • Gudbrandsdalen, Ringebu, Stave Churches

    Exploring the history of Ringebu Stave Church

    Exploring the history of Ringebu Stave Church

    Ringebu Stave Church is one of the more famous stave churches of the 28 remaining. After all, it’s located in the popular Gudbrandsdalen (Gudbrand Valley) – it’s the only stave church there – and is very close to Lillehammer. The church is open to visitors in the summer months, and the nearby Prestegarden has an excellent museum. Additionally, Ringebu is one of the largest stave churches remaining.

    Its appearance is not very stave-like, and that’s because the church underwent a rebuilding around 1630. Some parts of the original stave church remain, and they are visible both inside and out.

    Here’s my guide to Ringebu Stave Church.

    In this article...

    The E6 Highway

    Ringebu Stave Church is located on the E6, Norway’s main highway. You can find my guide to the E6 by clicking the link below. 

    The E6 Highway
    Ringebu Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide
    The Earliest Church

    The dating of this church is a little tricky. It is first mentioned in a diploma by a priest in 1270, but that diploma has now disappeared. When dating the timber, it was likely felled around 1192. It’s not the first church on the site; the site is likely a pre-Christian place of worship. In the 1980s archaeologists found post holes from an older church. Ringebu Stave Church is therefore an early 13th-century stave church. This makes it quite young compared to other stave churches.

    Borgund Stave Church

    The style of the stave church is of the ‘Borgund’ type – named after Borgund Stave Church. It is thus related to the stave churches found in Sogn and Valdres. This is useful information because, sadly, Ringebu Stave Church was rebuilt in 1630. What did it look like before 1630? We don’t really know. But looking at these better-preserved stave churches may offer a glimpse at the old Ringebu Stave Church.

    Click here to see a drawing of Ringebu Stave Church made in 1862.

    Rebuilding the church in 1630

    Ringebu Stave Church was rebuilt into a cruciform church in 1630. Why? Well, stave churches were small, dark, cold, lacked benches, and were Catholic. By 1630 Norway was Protestant, and major towns needed churches that could accommodate their needs. Some stave churches were able to avoid rebuilding, though most have had some form of renovation. Ringebu required a larger and more modern church, and so they rebuilt the stave church.

    The church got a new tower, choir, cross arms, and sacristy. Werner Olsen was in charge of the work. His renovation work is well known in Norway. He worked on Lom Stave Church and rebuilt the church in Vågå. The characteristic red tower is from 1631.

    The lower half of the walls were painted white in 1717; at the time the ceiling was much lower. During the last major restoration in 1921, they focused on restoring the original paint. They also tried to make the church look closer to its 17th-century form. They removed the old gallery, fixed the staves, and removed the lower ceiling.

    What's left of the original church?

    The nave is the original stave church. The 18 staves are still surrounding the nave. While the shape has changed a little, the 1921 efforts brought it back to its original shape.

    Ringebu Stave Church before the 1920-21 restoration (source)

    Ringebu Stave Church is one of the few that had transepts already in the Middle Ages. The walls in the north and south both still have traces of the transepts.

    The portals are also somewhat original. In the Middle Ages, the ship had two portals. The south portal is preserved, while the west portal is still in use. Originally, doors in stave churches were very narrow. This is because you had to enter the church alone and not bring any evil spirits with you – I guess they both couldn’t fit through the door! However, in 1822 there was a major fire in Grue Church on Pentecost, where many people perished. You can read about the event here.

    After this fire, new regulations said that the doors of churches needed to be very wide. Additionally, the door must open outwards and be unlocked throughout the service. Because of this, they altered the west portal with the new hinges and a wider frame. Still, you can see some traces of the old vine carvings around the portal. The ornamentation is often compared to the portal of Torpo Stave Church.

    The original stave church used to have a hallway around the exterior of the church. Marks from it are still visible in the east gable.

    The exterior of the church bears little resemblance of its first form. It’s unknown if the roof had dragons’ heads like Borgund, for example. Some very worn wooden fragments with a vine motif were found during an excavation in 1980.

    Restoration work images

    Amazingly, the 1920-1921 restoration was photographed. Below you can find some images from the restoration. They are hosted on digitaltmuseum.no and each link will open in a new tab.

    Archaeological Exploration

    The most famous archaeological survey of the church took place in 1980-1981. In total, archaeologists found around 900 coins. Most of them are from medieval times, especially the time of King Håkon Håkonsson (1217-1263). This also lends itself to the age of the church.

    As mentioned above, there are old post holes from an earlier church. The post-church, or pillar church as it is also known, is a forerunner of the stave church. The staves (posts) stood directly into the ground. This wasn’t great, because this exposed the wood to humidity, making it rot quickly. Stave Churches have stone foundations, or at least stone around the staves, to prevent this from happening. Click here to see a photo of Ringebu’s staves.

    Interior Decoration

    Click here to see a photo of the interior decoration.

    Inside the church, you’ll see the 18 staves, held together with St. Andrews crosses. This is commonly found in stave churches, perhaps most famously at Borgund Stave Church.

    The church has remnants of medieval art (click here to see some wall paintings). However, most of the decoration is from the 17th and early 18th century. The altarpiece in the baroque style and is from 1686. The altarpiece is the oldest preserved inventory from after the Reformation. On it are the names of the wealthy donors. The pulpit is from 1703. The King’s Monogram is for Frederik IV – he is the king who sold the country’s churches at auction to get some money.

    The chandelier is from the 18th century.

    The soapstone baptismal font is from the 12th century and comes from the old pillar church that stood here before the stave church.

    One of the most famous pieces of art inside the church is a figure of St. Laurentius. It is from 1250 (you can see it here). There are also two crucifixes from the 14th century. Two runic inscriptions are on the walls, as well as two animal figures and a human figure carved into the wood.

    There were no windows on the original stave churches. If anything, they had tiny circular holes high up on the church. Windows let in the cold, and cold was not a good thing when you had to spend hours in the church. In the pre-Lutheran days, the churchgoers had to stand during service, which was in Latin. Most people did not understand Latin, but church attendance was compulsory. There were some benches along the edge of the church for the frail, but otherwise, you had to stand. In the Lutheran times, benches were added and services were now in Danish, which was a minor improvement.

    Ringebu Prestgard seen from the church

    Ringebu Prestegard

    Close to Ringebu Stave Church is another site called the Ringebu Prestegard. It’s an ancient farm and old vicarage. It’s believed that at its peak there were over 50 buildings here, including outbuildings and farmhouses. Most are gone now; there are 5 listed buildings on the site today. The large main building is from 1743 after the last main building burned down. The site was a vicarage until 1991.

    The main building became a gallery around 1997, which it has been ever since. A café is also located on the site. There’s also a museum and exhibition about the stave church, including some of the archaeological finds on display. Exhibitions also cover the stories of the priests who lived here, the garden, and the vicarage.

    The garden is very old and is also listed for protection.

    There is a nice little path that leads from the church up to the Prestegard.

    The Legend of the Sister Bells

    In 2018 a novel was published in Norway called Søsterklokkene, or the Sister Bells, by Lars Mytting. It’s based on a very old legend about the bells at Ringebu Stave Church. The following is the legend, translated by me from the Ringebu Stave Church website.

    The story:

    A story is told about the bells in the church. The bells were given to the church as a sacrifice by a family from the farm “Vestad’ in the 18th century. Two Siamese twin girls lived there. They were healthy despite growing up together. However, one day one of the sisters became ill. Her parents thought she was going to die. They prayed to God for the daughter and promised to donate to bells to the church if she could live. They also asked if the girls could be allowed to die at the same time so they would not be separated. The girl recovered and the family kept their word.

    In Blaesterdalen, two bells were cast up and set up in the church. They were called the sister bells. They sounded so good that people thought there must be silver in the ore they were cast from. The rumours about these bells reached Christiania (Oslo). It was decided that one of the bells should be sent to Christiania and put in there. Out in the winter, they used sledges over Lake Mjøsa to transport the bells.

    However, while on the lake, the driver of the sledges noticed the ice was cracking. He took it as a sign that it was wrong to separate the sister bells. He turned the sledge around and started to make his way back home. However, he started to think that he may be mocked once he got home, so he turned around and decided to go back to Christiania. However, the ice broke and the bell sank to the bottom of the lake.

    In the spring, the bell was found, and a rope was attached to it. A group dragged the bell out of the water and onto the boat. Someone exclaimed arrogantly: “Now we have her, and she is going to the capital!”. Then the rope broke and the bell sank again.

    The cemetery

    There is quite a large cemetery with some very old gravestones surrounding the church. I came across this interesting display of old graves; they’ve clearly been moved from their original location but are kept due to their age. Perhaps there are some famous names here?

    Visiting the Church

    Opening Hours & Admission

    The church gate is open all year round, so you can walk around the exterior of the church for free.

    If you happen to be here between June and August, you can pay a small fee and go inside the church. The up-to-date opening hours and prices are at the Ringbu Stave Church website, which you can see by clicking here. They change every year, so it’s best to check the website. Their website is only in Norwegian – strange considering the tourist appeal – but the practical info is fairly self explanatory.

    The church also has guided tours available. I highly recommend taking a guided tour.

    Written Information

    There are some information boards outside, though most of them are in Norwegian. They don’t put information boards up inside stave churches, which is why I recommend getting a guided tour.

    How to get here

    The stave church is well signed with brown signs off the E6, the main highway between Oslo and Trondheim. It’s located about 2km outside of Ringebu town, and the road up to the church is quite narrow. There’s a large parking out outside it.

    We stayed in an AirBNB a five-minute walk from the stave church. I highly recommend it – this isn’t a paid endorsement, we just really liked the place. It was also nice to walk to the church. Click here to see it.

    The E6 Highway

    Ringebu Stave Church is located on the E6, Norway’s main highway. You can find my guide to the E6 by clicking the link below. 

    The E6 Highway
    Ringebu Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide
  • Gudbrandsdalen, Lillehammer, Otta, Ringebu, Road-trips, Scenic Drives

    Drive it Yourself: Gudbrandsdalen

    Drive it Yourself: Gudbrandsdalen

    Gudbrandsdalen is a valley just north of Oslo. Described by VisitNorway as ‘the king of the valleys’, Gudbrandsdalen has a lot to see and do. There are tons of historic sites as the valley is historically important. There are ancient farms as the valley is one of the famous food produces of Norway. And there are outdoor activities aplenty as Gudbrandsdalen is close to some of the most beautiful scenery in Norway.

    I have a lot to say about Gudbrandsdalen. This is, in fact, one of the valleys you are likely to visit on your trip to Norway. It’s on the way to Geiranger from Oslo, meaning it’s quite popular with tourists. I take my groups through the valley, and we spend time at the stave churches, farms, and mountain villas.

    Gudbrandsdalen (which means “Gudbrands Valley” in Norwegian) begins at Lillehammer, home of the 1994 Winter Olympics and an American mobster in hiding, and ends at Vågå, where you have easy road connections to to the Stryn, Sogne and Valdres Scenic Roads, plus the Western Fjords – provided you go in summer. Most of these roads close in winter.

    This is my overview of Gudbrandsdalen, including what to see and do. Watch the video below to see what this drive looks like, and be sure to read along with this article 🙂 

    In this article...

    Download this Guide

    All of our guides can be downloaded via our online store. 

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

    View at the Store

    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Information about facilities along the way

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the region & towns
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Facilities including supermarkets, toilets, petrol, hotels, cafes, restaurants with addresses.

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    Visit Our YouTube Channel

    The drive: Gudbrandsdalen Valley

    Otta

    This drive begins in Otta, located in the upper part of the valley. 

    Otta Travel Guide

    Rondane National Park

    National Park/Detour

    Shortly after leaving Otta you’ll see signs point to Rondane National Park. You can find information about the park via the link below. 

    Rondane National Park

    Sjoa

    Village

    Sjoa is a small town located alongside the river Sjoa – hence its name! The town is very well known for its water sports, including rafting and kayaking. The river is also rich in trout and grayling, making it one of several popular fishing rivers in Norway.

    Nord-Fron Municipality

    Kvam

    Village

    Kvam is probably most famous for the battles that took place here during World War II. During the military campaign in Norway in 1940, Kvam was the scene of a battle between German and British forces. During the battle, the original Kvam Church (from 1776) was destroyed, along with 70 houses. There is a whole Wiki page to the battles, which you will find here. 

    By Kvam Church is the Peace Park, which is a memorial to the locals killed during World War II. There are also memorials on Stølane (Kvamsfjellet) where Russian soldiers were shot by Germans, and on Hillingen where three Norwegian soldiers lost their lives in a battle against German troops.

    Kvam has a British military cemetery. There is also a museum about World War II, the Gudbrandsdal War Memorial Collection, in town.

    Remember the battle at Otta in 1612 between Norwegian peasants and the Scots? Well, after the battle 134 Scottish prisoners were taken from Otta to Kvam. At Klomstadlåven, most were killed in a massacre. The barn building where they were kept before they were massacred, was destroyed during World War II.

    Kvam currently has a population of 762. Most of the industry has closed down in the last few years.

    Vinstra

    Village

    Vinstra is a small town with a population of 2553 on the E6 and the Train from Oslo to Trondheim.

    Vinstra is perhaps most famous for its connection to Peer Gynt. A local man, Peder Olsen Hågå, was the model for Henrik Ibsen’s dramatic poem Peer Gynt from 1867. In the cemetery in Sødorp you’ll find a monument to Peer Gynt.

    Every year since 1967 the Peer Gynt Festival has been held on the Peer Gynt Farm, Hågå. The farm consists of 15 old buildings, and the festival includes, among other things, an open-air performance of the play.

    From Vinstra you can do the Peer Gynt Road through Gålå to Lillehammer. There’s also the Peer Gynt Seter Road to Kvam over the hills.

    Sødorp Church

    Historic Church

    Sødorp Church is a wooden cruciform church from 1752. It’s believed the first church on the site was a stave church, but it was replaced in 1570 and no trace of it remains today. In 1752, the church was replaced once again with the church we have today.

    Originally the church stood in Sødorp, a small town just south of Vinstra – hence its name. However, Vinstra emerged as a major town in the early 20th century, and it was decided to move the church there. In 1910, the church was moved to its present location. 

    The 18th century church originally had a very high tower, but it was destroyed by wind in 1850. The church then got a stumpy small tower (click here for a photo of it). When it was moved to Vinstra, they made a new high tower for the church. You can see photos of the construction process here, here, and its completion here. 

    Much of the interior is from the 18th century, including the altarpiece, pulpit, choir arch, crucifix and relief figures. The soapstone baptismal font is from the Middle Ages, though.

    In the graveyard you’ll find a memorial stone to the real Peer Gynt. 

    Sør-Fron Municipality

    Harpefoss

    Town

    Harpefoss is a small town with a population of 335. The name comes from the railway development in 1896, when the railway station was named Harpefoss. People have lived here for centuries, though, and old names were Skurdal and Ryssland. Harpefoss is the name of the waterfall that separates two hamlets.

    During the railway development, Harpefoss Hotel was built. It is the only hotel left that is one of the original hotels from the railway development period that still stands. It is built in Swiss style with neo-Gothic features. It has long since been closed down as a hotel, and after a period as a country store, the house is now a residence.

    In Harpefoss you can stay in a historic farm! 

    The farm ‘Sygard Grytting’ has belonged to the same family since the 14th century. The current owner is the 16th generation since the year 1534. 

    It’s believed that as far back as Christianity goes, pilgrims would stay at the property on their way towards Nidaros in Trondheim. Because of these, there are unusual details in some of the buildings that are very similar to details found in monasteries. 

    You can stay in historic houses from the 17th century – the same houses the pilgrims stayed in – or buildings from the 19th century. 

    The property is still a working farm. 

    Agriculture specialises in sheep, grain, grass production and forestry. In ancient times, the operation was very versatile and the farm was self-sufficient in most things.

    Click here to visit their website. 

    Hundorp & Dale-Gudbrands Farm

    Historic Site

    Hundorp is the administrative centre of the municipality. Historically, Hundorp is a very important place. It was the centre of the petty kingdom of the Gudbrand Valley and as such an important place in terms of religion and politics.

    All this took place at Dale-Gudbrand’s farm. Dale-Gudbrand is a famous historic figure from the 1100s. He is mentioned in multiple Norse sagas, but most famously in the story of Olav the Holy christianising Gudbrandsdalen. You can read the story here. The image above is a drawing of Olav christianising the farmers. 

    Around the farm are five large grave mounds, though sadly one of them was removed. The four remaining are between 23 and 32 metres (75ft and 105ft). Additionally, there’s a square ring of stones and the remains of a round ring of stones, indicating a possible worshipping site.

    Today it is a Pilgrim Centre. There is a small farm shop with local food products and souvenirs. You can also spend the night there if you wish. Click here to visit their website. 

    Ringebu Municipality

    Ringebu

    This drive ends at Ringebu, a scenic village home to one of Norway’s preserved stave churches. 

    Ringebu Travel Guide

    The Previous Drive

    Valdresflye Tourist Road

    In the morning we drove across the beautiful Valdressflye Tourist Road.

    Valdresflye Tourist Road

    The Next Drive

    Rondane Tourist Road

    After spending the night in Ringebu, we continued over the mountains on the Rondane Tourist Road. 

    Rondane Tourist Road

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Fagernes, Gudbrandsdalen, National Tourist Roads, Road-trips, Valdres

    Drive it Yourself: The Valdresflye National Tourist Road

    Drive it Yourself: The Valdresflye National Tourist Road

    If you are looking for a great scenic road near the mountains, I do recommend Valdresflye. Everyone has heard of the Jotunheimen National Park, but you can’t exactly drive through the middle of it. The best way to see the park is to get out of your car and go for a hike. However, if you take the Valdresflye Scenic Road, you do get a glimpse at Jotunheimen’s beauty.

    Valdresflye is a mountain plateau in the easternmost part of Jotunheimen National Park. Reaching a height of 1,389m (4,557ft), it’s the second-highest mountain pass after Sognefjellet, a road famous for its bad weather. Valdresflye is a lot safer than Sognefjellet, and it is open longer than Sognefjellet.

    Valdresflye Scenic Road is not a long road (49km/30 mi), so you can take the time to park and go for many of the marked hikes. 

    If you are interested in historical sites, along the road you pass many ancient summer farms and mountain pastures.

    I got to do the Valdresflye National Scenic Road in September 2020, when I was travelling from Fagernes to the Gudbrandsdalen Valley. Below you’ll find all the info you need to do the drive yourself!

    In this article...

    Download this Guide

    All of our guides can be downloaded via our online store. 

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

    View at the Store

    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Information about facilities along the way

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the region & towns
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Facilities including supermarkets, toilets, petrol, hotels, cafes, restaurants with addresses.

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    Visit Our YouTube Channel

    The drive: Valdresflye Tourist Road

    Fagernes

    I recommend that you begin this drive in Fagernes. 

    Fagernes Travel Guide

    Hegge Stave Church

    Stave Church

    Hegge Stave Church is a 13th century stave church located on the hillside near Heggenes village. It has undergone many repairs over the years, altering its appearance dramatically. The staves inside are still original, though. 

    Hegge Stave Church

    Beitostølen

    Ski Resort/Town

    Beitostølen is a small town located 900m (3000ft) above sea level. As of January 2020, the population was 360. It is largely a tourist area, with several large hotels, cabins, shops and restaurants.

    Due to the proximity to Jotunheimen, as well as its height, Beitostølen is among the most snow-sure winter sports resorts in Europe, and ski season usually lasts from November to April.

    There are alpine slopes and cross-country trails totalling 320km. In summer, Beitostølen is very popular with hikers.

    The village has hosted the FIS Cross-Country World Cup and the Biathlon World Cup competitions.

    There is the Beitøstolen Health Sports Centre, a rehabilitation for the disabled. Ridderrennet, an international ski race for the disabled, is held at Beitostølen every year.

    Today Beitostølen is the second largest tourist destination in Innlandet County after Lillehammer.

    Bitihorn

    Mountain

    The most prominent peak you’ll see after starting the scenic road is Bitihorn, which is 1607m high. It’s a popular hike, and there’s a parking lot on the left where you can park. It’s near a Sami camp.

    Here is some info about hikes in the area.

    Bygdin Mountain Hotel

    Historic Hotel

    The history of the hotel goes back to 1867, when two brothers had an idea to build a hotel here and generate tourism. Originally their hotel was in a different location; when the road was finished and it didn’t go past their hotel, they moved it to the current location. The building was completed in 1897 and is now the oldest pat of the present-day hotel.

    Bygdin Hotel quickly became popular thanks to its good standard and location on the mountain pass. In winter, planes would land on the frozen lake with tourists.

    The first major renovation of the hotel was in 1910-1912, and you can still see this renovation in some of the historic rooms, the salon, and the entrance.

    During World War II, the hotel was used as an officer’s quarters. German and Austrian troops came here to practice warfare in the mountains. Up to 20,000 men and 600 horses passed through the area. At the hotel, a lot of furniture, paintings and valuables were confiscated. The piano was recovered after the war; it was found all the way in Trondheim. The piano is in the ladies’ lounge today.

    In 1964 a new brick building was added to the property. New owners took over in 2017, after stopping at the hotel to buy a waffle and deciding to buy it! The new owners are making efforts to preserve its historic character.

    You can stop here for a bite to eat and to admire the hotel.

    Historical info taken from the hotel’s website. 

    Flye1389

    Scenic viewpoint

    This is the highest point on the road, at 1389m above sea level (4557 ft). The cafe inside has food from Valdres and Gudbrandsdalen, plus incredible views over the mountain peaks. You can rent hiking equipment here. 

    Steinplassen

    Monument

    At the same photostop where I took the above photos you’ll see Steinplassen, a monument to all the cairns found on mountains. The mountain range here is the Jotunheimen mountains. 

    Bessheim Fjellstue & Hytter

    Historic Hotel

    Bessheim is a historic lodgings.

    The site was a sæter, which is a kind of old building and base that had everything anyone would need when in the mountains. It was important to those coming to their summer farms, but also for fishers and hunters. They would find equipment here, plus shelter if there was a storm. 

    As the area became more popular for hikers in the second half of the 19th century, the sæter became a good place for those seeking shelter. Eventually the sæter’s (there were three here) grew into lodges. The first building built for tourism was in 1890. The lodge ceased being used for cows and goats in the 1960s – yes, historically these lodges were also for animals! 

    There is one sæter still on the property, Sandnesstuggu, which you can rent for the night.  The hotel has remained in the family since 1890, with the current owner being the great-great granddaughter of the woman who built the lodge in 1890.

    Historic info taken from the hotel’s website (click here). 

    Hindsæter Hotel

    Historic Hotel

    Hindsæter Hotel is a small, historic timber hotel from 1898. Much like Bessheim, the hotel was originally a sæter; a farm that welcomed guests. As more people began to come here in the late 19th century, the farmer owner built a hotel. The landscape is historic, with old timber houses, stone fences, ski guards and grazing animals. The hotel even has its own hydropower plant.

    History taken from the hotels website (click here). 

    Ridderspranget Ravine

    Natural Attraction

    Ridderspranget, or ‘The Knight’s Leap’ in English, is a ravine formed by a river that has gnawed deep into the bedrock, so erosion has only taken place in the riverbed. The name comes from a legend about Sigvat Leirholar, one of the king’s advisers, who received a letter that a beautiful girl was to marry a knight. The girl did not want to marry the knight, so Sigvat decided to set her free! He picked her up and fled with her – the knight cased them but Sigvat jumped after Ridderspranget with the girl in his arms and they were free.

    It is a short and relatively easy walk to get to Ridderspranget. 

    Vågå Municipality

    Randsverk

    Settlement

    Randsverk is a small settlement with mostly cabins and campgrounds. There is a supermarket here, too!

    They have a lovely website, which you can view here. 

    In Randsverk you’ll find signs pointing to Jotunheimen National Park, but keep in mind that the road is gravel. You can also find the road down to Gudbrandsdalen. 

    Vågåmo

    Our final stop is Vågåmo, a picturesque small town located just off the Rv15. Information on Vågåmo can be found via the link below. 

    Edvard Munch & Vågå

    Continue the drive

    Gudbrandsdalen

    After finishing in Vågåmo, we drove east to Otta and then explored the Gudbrandsdalen Valley, 

    Gudbrandsdalen Valley

    Previous Drive

    Numedal Valley

    Numedal is home to a large number of medieval buildings, including four stave churches. 

    Numedal Valley

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Gudbrandsdalen, History, Walking Guides

    Following in the Footsteps of Edvard Munch in Vågå

    Following in the Footsteps of Edvard Munch in Vågå

    When on a road trip through Norway, it’s worth trying to stop in as many small towns as possible. Each one is unique in their way, and each one has some treasures to uncover. Vågåmo, or Vågå, is on the E15 highway that links you between Oslo and Geiranger in the summer months, via the famous Lom village and close to the Sognefjellet Scenic Road. Vågå is one end of the Valdresflye Scenic Road, which gives you a close look at the Jotunheimen National Park. Vågå is well known for its wealth of outdoor activities, but they aren’t for everyone. If you’re looking for something a little different, you can do the Edvard Munch self-guided walk.

    In this article...

    The Rv15 Highway

    Vågå is located along the Rv15, which runs from Otta in the east to Måloy in the west. You can find my guide for the Rv15 by clicking the link below.  

    The Rv15 Highway
    Vågåmo Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Edvard Munch & Vågå

    Yes, Edvard Munch is linked to Vågå. Edvard is, of course, Norway’s most famous painter. He is so famous that they’ve rebuilt the Munch Museum in Oslo as this dominating skyscraper over the city skyline. It is officially the largest building dedicated to one artist. Norway is proud of Edvard, that much is clear. But Edvard isn’t exclusive to Oslo; in Vågå you can find sites that draw connections to the famous artist. This is because his family is from Vågå.

    When walking through Vågå, you’ll get to learn about Edvard’s interest in his heritage, plus what the Munch’s did here. His father’s side came from Vågå, and when Edvard was a young man, he came here to learn more about his ancestry. He maintained a close relationship to Vågå throughout his life and visited several times.

    When I visited Vågå after finishing the Valdresflye Scenic Road in September 2020, I did the Edvard Munch self-guided walk. I’ll be honest, I find the town’s connection to Edvard Munch a little thin. Still, I love the town for its history and heritage. Through Edvard Munch, they’ve made a real effort to preserve their old buildings and the stories of his ancestors. That’s the part I loved about this walk; getting to learn about real people who lived here and see the old buildings. The walk is an excellent overview of Vågå, so even if you aren’t interested in Edvard Munch it’s well worth doing.

    In this article, I’ve included information about both Vågå and Munch’s connection to Vågå. It’s a short walk – 1.3km – so if you find yourself in Vågå, I recommend taking the time to explore the town.

    The Munch connection to Vågå

    Edvard Munch was born near Hamar, but his parents came from Kristiania (Oslo). To find his connection to Vågå, we have to go back to his grandparents and great grandparents on his father’s side, who lived in the town.

    Christine Munch

    His great grandfather was Peder Sørensen Munch, who was a pastor at Vågå Church. Sadly there isn’t much information on him today, but his wife is much more known. She was Edvard’s great grandmother, and her name is Christine Storm Munch. She had a herb garden at the Ullinsvin vicarage. Christine is the main family member you’ll hear about on the walk. The audio guide is even based on her stories.

    Christine (1747-1825) was a well-known knowledgable and accomplished woman. She governed Ullinsvin in the last part of the 18th century. Christine grew and collected healing herbs and spices in the vicarage’s garden. She was well known for helping sick villagers with her natural remedies. Before cookbooks were common, she wrote hundreds of pages of recipes.

    Another well-known Munch is Edvard Storm (1749-1794), the half-brother of Christine. He grew up at Ullinsvin and wrote folk songs in the Vågå dialect. They are still sung by folk singers today. He is a famous poet and many of his poems are characteristic of Norwegian national romanticism.

    Edvard's Interest in Vågå

    Why the interest in Vågå? Edvard suffered a lot of loss in his family when he was growing up. That likely piqued his interest in learning about his ancestors. His father had told him stories about his family in Vågå. The town was considered a key place for the family on his father’s side. Everyone in the family felt a need to visit Vågå Church and Ullinsvin vicarage. So, Edvard did. He visited first as a young man and returned several times throughout his life. It’s believed he drew inspiration from the landscape as well as some of the paintings in Vågå Church.

    Vågå Church

    Vågå Church is the first stop on the self-guided walk. The walk begins in the town square, where you’ll see a large ‘The Scream’ poster that you can pose in! Still, I’ll begin my guide with the church.

    There’s a lot of misinformation online about the church. Many tourism websites define the church as either “one of the oldest wooden churches in Norway” or as “one of the oldest stave churches in Norway”. Neither is true.

    Vågå Church was built in the 17th century, using parts of a stave church that was considered one of the oldest stave churches in the country. However, today Vågå Church is not built in a stave style and thus not classified as one of the 28 remaining stave churches in Norway. Still, don’t let this put you off visiting! Stave elements are remaining, and the church is gorgeous.

    History of the church

    Vågå has been populated for a very long time. Vågå is mentioned in the Old Norse sagas when King Olav (later Saint Olav) travelled through the region. He called all the villagers to a meeting, and told them if they didn’t convert to Christianity, he’d burn their houses and farms down. Most of the villagers converted to Christianity.

    It’s believed the site where Vågå Church is today used to be a pagan temple. There was likely a stave church on the site around 1030, a few years after King Olav forced everyone into Christianity. The stave church would’ve been a symbol of the dominance of the new religion over the old, though stave churches did use pagan symbology. If Christianity didn’t work out, they could use the church as a pagan church.

    A new stave church was completed on the site around 1150, and this is widely regarded as one of the oldest stave churches in the country. It was not the only stave church in the village; there were several scattered throughout the village.

    A new church for Vågå

    By the early 17th century, the population of Vågå had become too large for the stave churches. So, a decision was made to tear them down and make one large central church. Between 1626 and 1628, Vågå Church was built. It is a cruciform church and, while the construction technique is like stave churches, the church does not have staves. Because of this, it is not classified as a stave church.

    Still, there are elements of stave churches on this church. The several previous stave churches had good timber, and some of this is in the construction of Vågå Church. Many of the wall surfaces have the old decorations from the stave churches, especially the portals.

    The basic architectural plan is a Latin cross. The construction was done under the direction of Werner Olsen (1600-1682), who is famous in Gudbrandsdalen for his renovation work on stave churches. He later worked on the remodelling of Lom Stave Church and Ringebu Stave Church. His ‘trademark’ is the octagonal bell tower with four small spires in each corner. This type of spire is known as the “Gudbrandstalen type”. Olsen worked to incorporate elements from the stave churches into the new church.

    The Baptismal Font (Source)

    Interior Decorations

    There are some richly decorated items inside, some from the original stave church. For example, the baptismal font is from the 12th century and is the church’s oldest inventory. The pattern corresponds to a pattern found on a Viking ship. It was likely brought over from Ireland by the Vikings. Another old item is the crucifix, from the mid-13th century. It’s in the Gothic style.

    The pulpit and altarpiece are from the rebuilding of the church. The organ is from 2002 and has 1200 pipes.

    Cemetery

    The most famous grave in the cemetery is of Jo Gjende. He (1794-1884) was famous in Norway as an outdoorsman and freethinker. He was born in Vågå and grew up on a farm, which he later inherited, but he ended up living in the Jotunheimen mountains on a mountain farm. Jo became known for his reindeer hunting and sharpshooting. Eventually, he became a vocal sceptic of Christianity, instead, he believed in natural philosophy. For this, he became known as a freethinker. It’s believed that Henrik Ibsen used Jo Gjende as a model for Peer Gynt.

    You will also see some of the Munch family graves here, such as Edvard Storm.

    Vågå Church Visitor Info

    The church has its own website, which you can view here. It’s only in Norwegian, but has a page for tourists. As of writing, there’s no info on opening hours.

    Ullinsvin Vicarage

    Ullinsvin vicarage is a short uphill (but not steep) walk from the church, and the views along the way are incredible. Once at the vicarage, you can walk around the gardens for free. There’s a café here plus a gallery.

    Ullinsvin is an old vicarage with a total of 13 buildings. The old garden has a herb garden, rosebeds, mountain gardens and various trees and shrubs. The Munch family lived at the vicarage for over 80 years, and Christine became famous for her herb garden here. Sadly the original location of the herb garden is unknown, though thanks to her recipes they have been able to replant some of her herbs.

    You can take a break at Ullinsvin at Café Edvard, where they have created a menu around Christine’s old recipes.

    Jo Visdal was a close friend of Edvard Munch from adolescence and for the rest of their lives. They met when they were both studying at the Royal College of Drawing. Jo Visdal created the bus of Edvard Munch you can see in the garden. The bust shows Edvard Munch as a young man, and it is the only bust made of Edvard while he was alive. It was made in 1886. Jo Visdal is from Vågå.

    Up-to-date visitor info is found on their website, but it’s only in Norwegian. Click here.

    Inside the museum (source)

    Jutulheimen Bygdemuseum

    The last stop on the walk is the museum all about life around Jotunheimen National Park.

    The museum contains a collection of houses from the 17th, 18th and 19th centuries from various farms in Vågå. In summer, you can have a guided tour through the museum. There’s an old portal that’s connected to the folktales of Asbjørnsen and Moe, Norway’s most famous fairytale writers. There are some interesting interior exhibitions, too. One exhibition focuses on the impact of World War II on Gudbransdalen, while another is about Jo Gjende, the reindeer hunter.

    Up-to-date visitor information can be found on their website (click here).

    Practical information

    Edvard Munch self-guided walk

    The self-guided walk has its own website, which you can view here. The website includes the audio you can listen to at each stop, though it’s only in Norwegian. There’s also a ton of info in English about Munch and Vågå. I used the website as a resource for this page. https://www.munchivaga.no/english/

    The Rv15 Highway

    Vågå is located along the Rv15, which runs from Otta in the east to Måloy in the west. You can find my guide for the Rv15 by clicking the link below.  

    The Rv15 Highway
    Vågåmo Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide
  • Fagernes, Stave Churches, Valdres

    Hegge Stave Church

    Hegge Stave Church

    If you are planning to do the Valdresflye National Scenic Road, I recommend taking a detour to Hegge Stave Church. Located south of Beitostølen, Hegge Stave Church is a grand wooden church that has more or less been here since the 13th century. Like every one of the 28 remaining stave churches in Norway, Hegge Stave Church has a fascinating history. So, let’s get into it!

    In this article...

    The Valdresflye Tourist Road (Fv51)

    This stave church is located on the Fv51, which is also known as the Valdresflye Tourist Road. You can view our guide for this drive by clicking the link below. 

    Valdresflye Tourist Road
    Fagernes Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    The Early Years

    Hegge Stave Church is first mentioned in history in 1327, yet some of the logs date to the early 13th century. Hegge Stave Church is a mix of two previous stave churches. The church got this location in the 17th century.

    Buried Beneath the Surface

    Inside the church, you’ll be able to see the eight free-standing staves that are original from the Middle Ages. At the top of the staves are different facemasks, which we see in several stave churches including Borgund. Also, like Borgund, St. Andrews crosses link the staves together. On one of the staves is the rune inscription “Erling Arnson wrote these runes”. It may be the same Erling whose name we find on a rune inscription in Høre Stave Church nearby.

    There used to be a covered gallery all around the outside of the church. Legend says this is where the Vikings would leave their weapons so they wouldn’t get wet. I don’t know how accurate this is, but it’s an interesting image nonetheless! You’ll see the covered gallery in some stave churches today, like Fantoft and Borgund.

    The staves rise above the ceiling; the flat ceiling is fairly new.

    Today the building is in the basilica style.

    Oh Stave Church, Where Art Thou?

     

    Hegge Stave Church has had many major renovations. Looking at pictures today, you can tell it doesn’t look like a stave church. Sadly, this is common of many stave churches in Norway. At the same time, this restoration work guaranteed their protection from being torn down to make way for new churches.

    As mentioned above, the church was moved to its present location with parts from two previous churches. These parts may have come from two disused churches in Valdres, explaining the different dating’s on the church.

    Restoration efforts took place in 1694, 1706 and 1712, for starters.

    Extensions to the west happened in 1842. In 1844, the church was enlarged so the choir was as wide as the nave. Moreover, in 1864, the sacristy was added, and a flat ceiling covered over the old one, which would’ve looked like an overturned fishing boat. Other stave churches, like Borgund, still have this design. The church was painted white in 1872; the red paint was added later. This means that, unlike most other stave churches, this one is not tarred. I don’t know. I like my stave churches tarred.

    The last major renovation was between 1923 and 1924. Stone foundations placed under the church provide it with more stability. Additionally, the gallery and tower got new stairs.

    Judging from all these renovations, it seems that all that remains of the stave church is its staves.

    Odin, is that you? (Source)

    Interior Decoration

    Inside the church, you’ll find some incredible carvings from the 13th century. They are at the top of the staves and seem to represent kings. There’s a theory that one of them represents Odin, from Norse mythology, but that is not confirmed. The only other original piece inside the church is the baptismal font, made of soapstone from the 1100s. It has lovely decorations around it including trees, human figures and stars.

    There is a vestment from 1686 and a painting of Isaac’s Sacrifice from 1643 that are from the post-Reformation times.

    The altarpiece is famous for its folkloric tale. Four men from the parish went to Gudbrandsdal, the neighbouring valley, to buy or sell some cattle. They got caught in a major storm on the way back. They promised God that if they survived they would each give the value of a cow to Hegge Stave Church. The men survived and paid for the altarpiece. They pulled it to the church the following year on a sleigh. The altarpiece is from 1782 and has two pairs of candlesticks from around 1600 plus three ancient bibles from 1699, 1738 and 1764.

    You can find heaps of photos here.

    Around the Church

    The church has a carved gate from the Middle Ages, but the cemetery around the church is not that old. Hegge Stave Church is located some ways up the hill and stands by the farm Presthegge. You’ll see cows and tractors across the street!

    Hegge Stave Church Today

    The church is still the parish church in the local community. It’s possible to visit the church throughout the year for free, just check the website for the current opening hours.

    There is a large parking lot outside the church, and by the fence are some information boards in English and Norwegian.

    Hegge Stave Church is located just off the Fv51, a little north of the town Heggenes and 15 minutes south of Beitostølen, a winter sports resort and endpoint of the Valdresflye Scenic Road. Close by is the E16 between Bergen and Oslo. If you’re on the E16, you’ll see signs to Beitostølen from Ryfoss. Just follow those until the Fv51, and then turn right towards Heggenes instead of left to Beitostølen.

    The Valdresflye Tourist Road (Fv51)

    This stave church is located on the Fv51, which is also known as the Valdresflye Tourist Road. You can view our guide for this drive by clicking the link below. 

    Valdresflye Tourist Road
    Fagernes Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide
  • Stave Churches, Valdres

    Runic Stories at Høre Stave Church

    Runic Stories at Høre Stave Church

    Valdres is a common location in the old Norse sagas. After all, it is the valley you pass through on the ancient royal road from Oslo to Bergen. Naturally, there’s a little history here. And you can read it right on the walls of Høre Stave Church!

    Many stave churches have runic inscriptions, it’s true. Some are graffiti; medieval pranksters engraving their name into history. Yet, some have a story behind them and create more history for these stave churches. Høre Stave Church is one of the stave churches with an insight into the fascinating past of Norway. Especially around and shortly after the time of the Civil War in the 12th and early 13th century.

    In September 2020 I got to visit Høre Stave Church. While I was unable to go inside (the church was in service!) I got to see a lot and learn about this unique stave church. Here’s my guide to Høre Stave Church.

    In this article...

    The E16 Highway

    Høre Stave Church is a stop on the E16 highway. You can find my guide to the E16 by clicking the link below. 

    The E16 Highway
    Ryfoss Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Become Christian, or else!

    We know that the Christianisation of Valdres wasn’t easy. St. Olav, then King Olav, came from the west through the valley. He held farmers hostage and burnt down farms until they agreed to convert. According to the Sagas, Olav had churches built and clergymen appointed. None of these churches remains, but many of the stave churches are on the same spot, including Høre Stave Church.

    In medieval times, Valdres had many churches. There were at least 21 of them; 18 of which were stave churches. To compare, the neighbouring valley Hallingdal had 8 stave churches. Sadly very few remain today.

    Runes with a Story

    Inside the church is a runic inscription that dates Høre Stave Church back to around 1179. These aren’t graffiti runes, which are commonly found in churches, but rather have a story attached to them.

    The runes say:

    “That summer when the brothers Elling and Audun had trees felled for this church, Erling Jarl fell in Nidaros.”

    Erling Skakke is who they are referring to, and he is a famous name from the Norwegian Civil War. The inscription refers to the Battle of Kalvskinnet in 1179. According to the legend, King Sverre passed through Valdres in 1177. He was on the run from Magnus Erlingsson. At the time, there were two sides – the birkebeirne (a group of rebels from Western Norway) and the Baglers (Christians with ties to Danish royalty and located around Oslo). A man named Elling joined Sverre in his fight against Magnus and his father Earl Erling Skakke. When Erling fell in the battle, Elling and his brother decided to build a stave church. It’s assumed this was Høre Stave Church.

    The church and surrounding farms in the 1880s (Source)

    Ties to Norwegian Unity

    The farm next to Høre Stave Church is called Kvie, and this is an important farm in Valdres. The farm is in the old sagas. A woman called Gyda was from Kvie, and she was the daughter of the petty king Eirik of Hordaland. She is known for prompting Harald Hårfagre to unite Norway into one Kingdom. She made Harald promise not to cut or shave his hair until he had united the country. When he did finish uniting the country, he got a nice haircut and they got married.

    Early Use of Høre Stave Church

    Judging from both the rune inscriptions and dating the timber, Høre Stave Church is from around 1179. It was originally a pillar church, with four corner staves. Under the church are graves, some of them children. It wasn’t allowed but common to bury children under stave churches. As they had not been baptised yet, the parents worried the children would not be accepted into heaven. Some foetuses were also found under the church. There is evidence of ceremonial burials under the church, likely from pre-Christian times.

    Hundreds of coins were found during the renovation work. They date back to the time of King Magnus (1035-1047), King Valdemar (1154-1182), and King Sverre (1177-1202). It was common to bury coins under the church as a wish for good fortune, but also coins just fell out of people’s pockets!

    Rebuilding Høre Stave Church

    Looking at the photos, you can see Høre Stave Church doesn’t look much like a stave church today. Like almost every stave church remaining in Norway, it was rebuilt ‘recently’. After all, most of the stave churches were torn down in the 19th century to make way for more modern churches, so we should be grateful this church survived thanks to this massive restoration effort.

    The renovations include a new choir and nave, plus replacing most of the timber. The builders were inspired by nearby Hegge and Lomen Stave Churches, which are similar in appearance. In the late 19th century, the church received a new roof and tower.

    The original stave church somewhat exists today; all that remains is its skeleton. The skeleton is hidden by the cladding. The ship is still the original size, giving a sign of the original size of the church room.

    In 1979, renovations were complete. Today Høre Stave Church has a basilica shape, meaning the nave is higher than the aisle.

    Details inside the church (Source)

    Details Inside the Church

    The newer walls in the church are unpainted, the same as the ceiling and the benches. Beautiful original carvings are left exposed in the church.

    Rich decorations and carvings are on the chancel and pulpit. While they are from 1828, elements from the Middle Ages have been retained. The altarpiece is from 1800.

    There are two medieval portals still on displayed. However, it’s thought they were moved from their original spot in the church. Yet, they still have beautiful old elements. The carvings feature animal heads with vines growing out of their heads, and foliage and branches.

    Besides a thurible, there is no original medieval furniture in the church.

    Around the Church

    There is a rich wooden shed from the Middle Ages with dragon and lion carvings. On the portal is a wrought iron fitting with a brass base plate from the Middle Ages. The iron fitting is similar to ones found on stave churches in Valdres and Sogn.

    As is common with stave churches, there is a separate building for the bell tower. The bell had to be in a separate building as stave churches couldn’t support the weight.

    Høre Stave Church Today

    Høre Stave Church still serves the community as a regular parish church, and there are services here every Sunday. In the summer months, the church is open to the public.

    Up-to-date visitor info can be found here.

    Høre Stave Church is located on the hillside above Ryfoss, a small town on the European Highway 16 between Bergen and Oslo. It’s a short detour off the highway. There’s a large-ish parking lot opposite the church with information boards about Kongevegen (the old road between Bergen and Oslo) and the stave church. Info is in Norwegian and English.

    Høre Stave Church is very close to Lomen and Hegge stave churches, so consider adding them to your trip

    The E16 Highway

    Høre Stave Church is a stop on the E16 highway. You can find my guide to the E16 by clicking the link below. 

    The E16 Highway
    Ryfoss Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide
  • Stave Churches, Vang

    Recreating the Past at Øye Stave Church

    Recreating the Past at Øye Stave Church

    Øye Stave Church has the appearance of an old church. I could almost envision Vikings stepping out of the front door after their service. Øye Stave Church is one of the oldest churches in the country. We do know that stave churches did borrow architectural inspiration from old Viking structures, so it’s plausible. Located just outside the town of Vang and close to the E16 between Bergen and Oslo, Øye Stave Church is a worthy roadside stop for stretching your legs. Its history differs from the other stave churches, and it is a beautiful place to visit. Here’s some info about Øye Stave Church.

    In this article...

    The E16 Highway

    Øye Stave Church is a stop on the E16 highway. You can find my guide to the E16 by clicking the link below. 

    The E16 Highway
    Vang Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    The Church on the Swamp

    Øye Stave Church is one of the smallest and oldest stave churches in Norway. It is likely from some time during the second half of the 12th century. The church is first mentioned in written documents in 1347. It stood by the old traffic road over Filefjell, which was the first road between Bergen and Oslo.

    When the church was originally built, it stood by the lake and the river. This caused issues; the river flooded in the spring. Legend says that the reason the church had to eventually be moved was that it was so swampy that coffins floated up in the spring when there was flooding.

    In 1665, the church was described as being in a poor state of repair and either rotting away or the wind was ripping it apart. It was in bad shape. So, they had to move it.

    Goodbye, Øye Stave Church

    In 1747, Øye Stave Church was torn down. A new church was built further up the hill and closer to the town. Eventually, everyone forgot about Øye Stave Church. After all, Vang Stave Church was sold off to Prussia in 1842. Very few cared about stave churches during this time.

    Rebuilding the stave church (source)

    A Stave Church is Born

    When the new Øye Church was under renovations in 1935, the floor was being replaced. They discovered there were 156 pieces of the old stave church under the floor of the new church. Why they were there is unknown, but architects knew there was enough of the old stave church for it to be rebuilt. So, they did.

    The plot where the Øye Stave Church stands is not the original plot, but it is just as scenic. A reconstruction plan was finalised in 1950, and it took 15 years to rebuild the stave church. They, of course, took inspiration from other stave churches in the Valdres Valley. The pieces used in the stave church were a mix of the original 156 and replicas of pieces. Many parts of the original stave church were taken away to museums in Fagernes and Oslo for preservation. They even used some pieces left over from the restoration of Heddal Stave Church. The new Øye Stave Church was inaugurated in 1965.

    Inside the church (source)

    Architecture & Interior

    The stave church is a simple stave layout with a rectangular shape. There are two carved portals on the stave church, a classic feature, but these are replicas. The originals are in a museum.

    Inside the church, some historic artefacts are kept in the otherwise simple interior. The interior is bare woodwork and very little painting, unlike other stave churches. The floorboards are original, but most of the building material are copies. In the choir is a crucifix from the Middle Ages. The font used for baptising is from the Middle Ages and is carved from one tree. It came from St. Thomas’ Church at Filefjell when that church was torn down in 1808. More about that church on my page about Vang. Lastly, one of the pews may be from the Middle Ages.

    The Church Today & Øye Church

    Today Øye Stave Church is used for weddings and Midsummer mass only. All services take place in the new Øye Church from 1747. Looking at it, you can see the design is inspired by the stave church.

    Information board outside the church (my photo)

    Information board outside the church (my photo)

    Visiting the church

    At the time of writing, Øye Stave Church is not open to the public. Instead, the website says to contact their office. You can find the up-to-date information here.

    Other stave churches in Valdres Valley do open to museums. You can see them both on my page about the E16 and my page about Valdres.

    The church is still worth visiting to see the outside. There is a parking area right in front of the church, and out the front is a sign in English and Norwegian.

    Not a bad place to park 🙂 My photo

    Øye Stave Church is marked on Google Maps and it’s a short drive off the E16. Brown signs lead you to the church.

    There are no facilities here, but you are close to Vang, which has many more options.

    The E16 Highway

    Øye Stave Church is a stop on the E16 highway. You can find my guide to the E16 by clicking the link below. 

    The E16 Highway
    Vang Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide
  • Vang

    The Fascinating History of Vang & the Vang Stone

    The Fascinating History of Vang & the Vang Stone

    If you’re driving on the E16 from Oslo to Bergen, before you cross the mountains, you’ll drive through Vang. At first, it seems like it’s a convenient roadside stop, with cafes, shops and a petrol station. But there’s so much history here! As you approach the town, you’ll start seeing signs to “Vangsteinen” – the Vang Stone – a roadside attraction with a fascinating backstory. Park across the street from it, walk over the road and marvel at this ancient rune-stone.

    This is exactly what we did on our road-trip through Norway in September 2020. I had heard about the stone before and had wanted to see it, and finally, I got my chance. It doesn’t disappoint, as doesn’t Vang. When I went online to learn a little about Vang, it surprised me just how much there is to see here. So, in this article, I’ve provided an overview of what you can see in Vang that’s historical. If you need somewhere to stretch your legs on the long drive, this is the place.

    In this article...

    The E16 Highway

    The Vang Stone is a stop on the E16 highway. You can find my guide to the E16 by clicking the link below. 

    The E16 Highway
    Vang Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    A Small Town with a Big Story

    The word ‘vang’ comes from an old farm that stood here; this farm is also where the first church stood. Vang, like the rest of the Valdres Valley, was populated by migrants from Western Norway. People have lived in this valley (Vangr means meadow or field) for thousands of years. This is likely due to its proximity between east and west Norway. Vang is by a lake just before the mountain pass to Western Norway and thus made for a good rest stop.

    When Norway was being Christianised, it was Olav the Holy who travelled and converted the villages. For example, in other towns in Valdres, he took the villagers boats and said he wouldn’t give them back until they became Christians. In other towns, he told the villagers: “You’ll become Christian, or I’ll kill you.” Nice guy! Today Olav the Holy is the Saint of Norway, so this method worked for him.

    Vang became the site of a legal court (ting in Norwegian), and the ancient stave church was next to the site. The site was famously used by King Haakon VI in 1368 when he was settling a boundary dispute.

    Vang became part of the ancient royal road between Bergen and Oslo. In the 16th century, it was the postal road, and from the 18th century, it was Kongevegen. Kongevegen was the first road for horse and cart between East and West, and I’ve covered it on my page for the E16. Today, the highway follows the same path as Kongevegen. Still, the town and nearby area became a place where travellers would seek refuge at some point on their journey. Vang also had many churches that proved useful to travellers, which we’ll get to soon.

    Vang Stone (My Photo)

    The Vang Stone

    Okay, so let’s get to the most famous monument in Vang: the Vang Stone. It’s a runestone from sometime around the year 1000. The consensus is that it was erected to signify early Christianity in the region. The Vang Stave Church (I’ll get to it below) stood next to the Vang stone, which further indicates religious importance. On top of the stone is a lion. Some think it represents Norway’s coat of arms, while others think it represents one of the creatures in the pagan religion.

    On the side of the stone it says: “Gåses søner reiste denne steinen etter Gunnar, brorsonen sin”, or “Gåse’s sons erected this stone after Gunnar, his nephew”.

    Fun fact: In Norway, students learn to read runes.

    Vang Stone (My photo)

    Who was Gåse? No one knows. Some think it may be the church or king’s representative, or maybe Gunnar’s death is significant in Norway’s religious history? Maybe Olav got to him? There is a farm further down the E16 called Steinsvoll; it used to be called Gåsedelen. Some think the name came from there, and that the farm may have been a church estate.

    The story of Christianity in Valdres is well-known for being violent and dramatic and is in Snorre’s sagas. Yet, Snorre doesn’t mention any names or places. The Vang stone is the most important object that tells us something about Christianity in Valdres. Sadly, research is lacking in the subject. In 2019, the Valdres newspaper commented on this, pushing for a renewed interest in understanding the stone.

    A Healing Church in the Mountains

    There are many churches in Valdres. Close to Nystua, one of the old Kongevegen lodges is St. Thomas på Filefjell. The name comes from the Archbishop of Canterbury, Thomas Beckett, who was killed in 1170 and declared a saint.

    St. Thomas På Filefjell (Source)

    This church was a stave church, and the travellers between east and west would stop there. Once a year, on the 2nd of July, the priest would preach there. People came from all over to attend this service. After all, it was believed they could get cures for their ailments as the splinters from the church timber had miraculous powers. Eventually, a market took place near the church. At this market horses were traded, races took place, there was a lot of drinking and a lot of fighting. The market gained such a bad reputation that the church was torn down in 1808. A new church now stands on the site – it’s from 1971 – but it is nowhere near as charismatic as a stave church.

    Vang Stave Church // Drawing of the stave church from 1841 by F.W. Schiertz // (Source)

    Where is Vang Stave Church?

    As mentioned above, a stave church stood next to the Vang Stone. The church may be from around the same time as Høre and Lomen (1170-1190), but others think it is from around 1300. The site was religiously important, as indicated by the stone. The stave church may have been rebuilt after the Black Death.

    We know very little about the stave church while it was in use, but we know about the drama it caused in the 19th century. The locals didn’t want it anymore. It was small and falling apart, and they wanted a much larger and grander church. The painter Johan Christian Dahl, considered one of the most important national romantic painters of Norway, loved the stave church and did everything in his power to save it.

    First, he tried to get it preserved as a cultural monument in Christiania (Oslo) or Bergen, but they didn’t want it. At this time, around 1840, stave churches were not cool or important. Dahl had a friend, Crown Prince (later King) Frederick William IV of Prussia, and he knew he’d want the church. So, after the exchange of several letters, Dahl convinced Frederick to buy the stave church.

    The church today (Source)

    They dismantled Vang Stave Church around 1842 and transferred to Silesia, now Karpacz in the Karkonosze mountains of Poland. It’s still standing, though heavily renovated to look more like a stave church. If you ever find yourself in Poland you can visit it.

    The church looked like the other stave churches in Valdres. But, the Høre and Lomen stave churches had a raised roof above the central part of the nave, while the stave churches in Vang and Øye had ordinary saddle roofs.

    Vang Church

    Behind the Vang Stone is the Vang Church. It is from 1840 and stood immediately next to the unloved stave church. After the stave church was torn down, the Vang Stone was moved from its original place to stand in front of the Vang Church, where you can see it today.

    Practical Information

    Vang is on the European Highway 16 between Bergen and Oslo, just before/after the mountains depending on the direction you’re going. It’s at the top of the Valdres Valley, a beautiful region known for its stave churches and old farms.

    Where to go

    To the north of Vang is the Jotunheimen National Park, a famous park for hiking or skiing. To the west of Vang is the Filefjellet mountains, which you cross between east and west Norway. Filefjellet isn’t as dramatic as Jotunheimen, but it’s more accessible year-round. The highway through it means there are many places to stop to eat or spend the night.

    Road conditions

    The European Highway 16 is open year-round unless there’s a massive storm or blizzard.

    Where to stay

    There are some campgrounds in Vang, and in the mountains, you’ll find hotels or AirBNB cabins. I recommend spending the night in Fagernes. They have a huge hotel and fantastic open-air museum you need to visit.

    Facilities

    There is a huge petrol station, Yx, with bathroom facilities and hot and cold food options. You’ll find a grocery store (Coop Prix) in town.

    If you want to park your car and walk around, there’s a large parking lot across the highway from the Vang Stone.

    Tell me what you think!

    As you can see, Vang is more than a town to fill up the petrol before crossing the mountains. It has a story, a unique history, and some great monuments to see. Take the time to explore this cute little town before continuing your journey.

    If you have done this drive or have any questions for me, let me know in the comments.

    The E16 Highway

    The Vang Stone is a stop on the E16 highway. You can find my guide to the E16 by clicking the link below. 

    The E16 Highway
    Vang Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide
  • Stave Churches, Valdres

    Lomen Stave Church

    Lomen Stave Church

    If you are driving on the E16 between Bergen and Oslo, Lomen Stave Church is by the highway. Located in the historic Valdres Valley, this church has stood here since the 12th century. In the summer months, it is open to the public, where you can go inside and marvel up-close at the medieval detailing. It’s not as famous or as ‘stave-y’ as some other churches, I know, but it’s located in a gorgeous place and bears many similarities to churches like Borgund. Here’s some info about Lomen Stave Church.

    In this article...

    The E16 Highway

    Lomen Stave Church is a stop on the E16 highway. You can find my guide to the E16 by clicking the link below. 

    The E16 Highway
    Fagernes Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    The Building

    Lomen Stave Church

    Lomen Stave Church is from around the year 1192. It has many similarities to nearby Høre Stave Church. They were likely built around the same time. The church is a pillar stave church, meaning the main room has four supporting stave beams. The style and decoration of the church is part of the “Valdres-Sogn” stave churches. This groups many of the churches from Valdres Valley and around the Sognefjord that have the same features. Considering the old King’s Road used to run through the valley to Sogn, they likely shared design tips.

    Like all stave churches, Lomen Stave Chuch has fallen victim to modernisation and renovation. The choir is from a major renovation in the 1750s. During this time, the walls were also expanded to make the main room larger.

    During the last refurbishment, archaeological excavations uncovered 71 artefacts, including jewellery and coins. The oldest coin found here is from King Sverre’s time, 1177-1202.

    Details around the portal (source)

    Today the church, neighbouring bell tower and cemetery are under protection. Many original features of the church remain, despite major renovations. The most illustrative are the portals, which have decorations of dragons, vines, and animal heads. Some of the portals have moved around the church, but they do date back to medieval times. These kinds of decorations are common on Valdres-Sogn stave churches. The roof and wall timbers are also original.

    Interior

    Little remains of the original church on the inside. This is because the pieces are now either in a museum in Oslo or the Folkemuseum in Fagernes. There is a medieval chest leaning towards the wall in the choir. A rune inscription on the chest is still visible. There is also a Madonna head inside; it is a plaster copy of the original from the 1200s. The original is in the Valdres Folkemuseum.

    The interior is painted green from the major renovation in the 1800s. Today, the interior reflects the period between 1750-1850.

    Around the Church

    Lomen Stave Church is located on the western part of the valley. Close by is the old traffic road through the village. No one has been buried in the church for over 100 years; the graves here are very old.

    Visiting Lomen Stave Church

    Today the church is used for weddings and church services during the summer.

    It is open as a museum from late-June to mid-August on weekends. Admission costs 60 NOK for adults. Up-to-date info can be found here.

    There are no shops nearby. With parking, You park further down the hill and have to walk up-hill on a path to get to the church. The photos above were taken from near the parking lot, so you can see how far away the church is.

    The nearest place to stay is Fagernes.

    The E16 Highway

    Lomen Stave Church is a stop on the E16 highway. You can find my guide to the E16 by clicking the link below. 

    The E16 Highway
    Fagernes Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide
  • Fagernes, Valdres

    Fagernes: The Perfect Stop on Your Road-trip

    Fagernes: The Perfect Stop on Your Road-trip

    If you’re driving away from Oslo towards Bergen or the mountains, you may end up passing through Fagernes (Far-ger-nez). At first, it looks like a standard town with a shopping mall, a huge hotel, and tiny main street. However, Fagernes is worth stopping in. It’s the main town in the traditional district of Valdres and is proud of its rich cultural traditions. There’s an excellent museum, walking paths, and festivals here to take advantage of.

    In September 2020, when I was on my 10-day road-trip around Norway, we stopped in Fagernes for the night. We were between seeing the Numedal Valley and the Valdresflye Scenic Road. We absolutely loved Fagernes and had a lot of fun wandering through the town. Here’s a collection of things I learned about Fagernes during my visit, as well as what you should do in the town and where you can go from there.

    In this article...

    The E16 Highway

    Fagernes is a stop on the E16 highway. You can find my guide to the E16 by clicking the link below. 

    The E16 Highway
    Fagernes Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    The Pretty Headland

    Fagernes is not an ancient town, though it is likely farming has been taking place here for thousands of years. Most of the town was underwater until the 18th century. The farms were high on the hillside and the lake Fagernes sits on was much deeper than it is today. When the lake began to retreat, a town emerged. The name means ‘pretty headland’ (Fager = pretty and nes = headland) and it certainly is.

    If you drive on Kongevegen (E16) you’ll see signs just like this at roadside stops

    A Perfect Spot on the King's Road

    The Valdres Valley is part of the King’s Road (Kongevegen), the old road between Bergen and Oslo. The road was built through the valley in the late 1700s and was the most important road in the country. It was also the first road where people could drive a horse and cart between the east and the west. It replaced the old track from the Middle Ages and postal road from the 17th century.

    Because of this position, Fagernes emerged as a trading town around 1857. Otto Stuve (1822-1871) is considered to be the founder of Fagernes, and one of the first names for the town was Stuvenes. He came to the area in 1857 when there was not much here and bought a plot of land. With this land, he built a lavish country store and hotel building. Eventually, others came to the area to establish a small trading business. The downtown area still has many of the old businesses. There are English-language signs on each building explaining its history. Sure, the English version is just a short overview of what the Norwegian part of the text says, but it’s still something.

    Examples of the signs you’ll see on buildings (My Photo)

     

    Tourism is an important industry

    Again, thanks to the King’s Road, Fagernes grew almost immediately as a tourist town. We also have Otto Stuve to thank for this; he did build the first hotel, after all. After his sudden death, his brothers inherited the property and quickly sold it off. The hotel then changed hands many times.

    It was the Fosheim family who gave the hotel some much-needed love. Ole Fosheim bought the property around 1882 and sold it to his son, Lage, who was 23 years old. With his wife Guri, they operated the hotel for 56 years until retiring in 1938. During that time the hotel was expanded and gained notoriety for its facilities and its great location.

    Sadly, the hotel burned down in 1946 and everything in the oldest part was destroyed. Fagernes Hotel did not operate for another 20 years. In 2000, it became the Quality Hotel & Resort Fagernes, and now it is known as Scandic Valdres. It is where we stayed on our trip and I highly recommend it. More on that further down.

    Outside the Valdres Folkemuseum (My Photo)

    Valdres Folk Museum

    The must-see of Fagernes is its open-air museum. I know, travelling around Norway shows that almost every town has an open-air museum. Trust me, the Valdres Folkemuseum is one of the best. Founded in 1901, the museum contains 95 houses and constructions with around 20,000 items. It is currently the fourth-largest Norwegian outdoor museum.

    If you visit in summer, you’ll be treated with folk music festivals, theatre performances and more.

    Some of the buildings inside the museum are very old. For example, Hovistabburet is from the 13th century and has an unusual room called the virgin room. Handeloftet is the main farmhouse from the period 1530-1640. The buildings are beautiful and from the Valdres valley, so they are worth checking out.

    A Town Rich in Traditions, and Rakfisk

    As you can see from the Folkmuseum, Fagernes is proud of its cultural traditions. They have a unique bunad design, dialect, and are well-known for their folk music. Every year the Jørn Hilme Festival takes place. It’s Norway’s oldest folk music festival and is named after the most famous fiddler from Valdres.

    Another important tradition here is the production of rakfisk, a fermented and salted fish. The fish used is typically trout or char, which you can fish in the lakes. It is fermented over two or three months, or even up to a year. It’s eaten without cooking and has a salty flavour and strong smell. You’ll see signs on the road with farmers selling rakfisk, or you can attend the Rakfisk Festival in Fagernes. Each year, they crown a rakfisk champion. The festival usually takes place in November. Click here to view their website.

    Fagernes is proud that there are many summer farms in the surrounding area, and you can visit many of them yourself. There, the farmers give an overview of the old Norwegian farming traditions. This is a great opportunity to see the real Norway. Click here for more info.

    Fagernes (My Photo)

    Close to Norway's Natural Beauty

    The biggest reason people come to Fagernes is because of its proximity to some of Norway’s most beautiful places. Fagernes has good connections to the Valdresflye Scenic Road, the Jotunheimen National Park, the West Norwegian fjords and the Gudbrandsdalen Valley. The nearby resort Beitostølen is famous in Norway for its great skiing facilities, and is very popular in the winter. In the summer, people come here to hike the king’s road.

    Vesleøya

    There are places to walk in Fagernes itself. The town sits on the lake Strandefjorden. There’s a walking path that goes along it from Scandic Valdres to the Folkemuseum and beyond.

    In Eastern Norway, you’ll see a lot of lakes called ‘fjords’. In Norwegian, fjord can mean many different types of bodies of waters, and they don’t necessarily have to be connected to the sea.

    From this walking path, you can take a bridge over to an island called Vesleøya, which is absolutely beautiful.

    The most popular hike in Fagernes is to Kvitberg, a historic farmstead high on the hill that was inhabited until 1936. The remains are still there today. It’s a hard but short hike, and the signs start from the tourist information office. Click here for more info.

    Where to stay

    As mentioned above, Scandic Valdres is by far the largest hotel in the area. While it is a little dated, we found the hotel to be clean, cosy, and the staff to be incredibly friendly and helpful. There’s a lovely restaurant inside (where you can try rakfisk) as well as a bar. Almost every room has a lovely view. There’s a huge parking area outside, and you’re a stone’s throw from walking paths and the Folkemuseum. Also, in 2019 the hotel won the prize for having the best breakfast in Norway. I can attest to this; the breakfast is great.

    There is a camping ground located in Fagernes right next to the Folkemuseum. If you don’t have a caravan, they have very cute cabins with private bathrooms from 795 NOK for a night.

    Many people from Oslo own cabins in Valdres. If you want to experience Norwegian cabin life I recommend getting on AirBnB and finding a Norwegian cabin.

    Where to go from here

    As mentioned above, Fagernes is in a good spot with road connections to many wonderful places. Fagernes is on the E16 (European Highway 16) which follows the King’s Road from Oslo to Bergen. If you keep following the E16 you’ll reach Vang before crossing the mountains to Borgund, where you can see the famous stave church. From there, it’s easy to get to Flåm and Bergen.

    If you follow the E16 towards Oslo and then turn-off and follow the Fv33, you reach Lake Mjøsa, the largest in Norway and home to popular towns like Hamar and Lillehammer. From there, it’s a short drive to the Gudbrandsdalen valley.

    If you follow the Fv51 south, you reach Gol and eventually Geilo, Norway’s oldest ski town. There you can cross the Hardangervidda Plateau to Eidfjord and the Hardangerfjord, the second-longest fjord in Norway.

    Lastly, and what we did, is follow the Fv51 north. You’ll reach Beitostølen, the popular ski resort, and then be at the Valdresflye Scenic Road, one of Norway’s national tourist roads. On the other end of this road is the E15, which links you to Geiranger and the famous Geirangerfjord. Or you can continue on the E6 to the E136 and onto Åndalsnes (a very famous road with Trollstigen) or towards Trondheim.

    After we did Valdresflye, we crossed over to Gudbrandsdalen before making our way to Røros. Just note that the Fv51 closes in winter.

    As you can see, there are so many options from Fagernes. It’s a great stopover town when leaving Oslo and heading into the countryside. Spend the afternoon and night in Fagernes, and on the next day continue onto somewhere wonderful in Norway 🙂

    You can see my videos of the drive from Fagernes to Vang (the King’s Road) and then from Beitostølen to Gudbrandsdalen on my YouTube channel. Hopefully, I’ll be able to record more videos of the area, just got to convince the husband we need to do another road-trip!

    The E16 Highway

    Fagernes is a stop on the E16 highway. You can find my guide to the E16 by clicking the link below. 

    The E16 Highway
    Fagernes Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide