mosjoen

  • Drive it Yourself: Bergen to Balestrand on the E39

    Drive it Yourself: Bergen to Balestrand on the E39

    This drive really grew out of boredom. I was tired of always doing the same road out of Bergen. Follow the E16 towards Oslo. Surely there’s more to Bergen than that!

    The area north of the city always felt like a mystery to me, and it was one I wanted to explore.

    Balestrand, on the other hand is a place I knew very well. I have met many travellers who have passed through Balestrand as an alternative to touristy Flåm, and they loved it. I was curious – what was Balestrand like? Was it was amazing as I was hearing?

    So off we go. Exploring the hidden north above Bergen before visiting one of the most popular fjord towns in the country. 

    This drive was a delight. It’s so diverse and so scenic. The best part is that it doesn’t get crowded with tourists. 

    Be sure to combine it with the Gaulafjellet Tourist Road. 

    In this article...

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    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    The drive: Bergen to Balestrand

    Bergen

    This drive begins in Bergen, the second-largest city in Norway. You can read our detailed guide to Bergen via the button below. 

    Nordhordland Bridge

    Bridge

    The bridge that we are going to cross first is the Nordhordland Bridge, a combined cable-stayed and pontoon bridge. It is 1.6km long. Plans have existed for the bridge since the 1960s, but it wasn’t funded until 1989. Construction started in 1991 and it opened in 1994. The bridge is the second-longest in Norway. 

    The floating section is a steel box girder bridge with ten pontoons, and it is like this because of the fjord’s depth. The fjord end of the main span is supported by a 30m (98ft) deep foundation, where the two bridges meet. It is the second pontoon bridge to be built in Norway. 

    The European Highway 39 is sometimes referred to as the coastal highway. It starts on the south coast of Norway, close to Kristiansand, and then follows the coast all the way up to Trondheim. There are many ferries along the road because the road practically hugs the coastline. 

    Alver Municipality

    Alver is a municipality just north of Bergen. Mongstad is Norway’s largest oil refinery, owned by Equinor and Shell, and is in the municipality. It is important to the business life here. Petrol, diesel oil, jet fuel and other products are produced at the factory and then sent abroad.  

    Knarvik

    Town

    The town we can see is Knarvik, the administrative centre of Alver. The E39 runs right through the middle of the village, cutting it into two. On the north is the Knarvik Senter, the largest shopping centre in the region. The southern part is older with its original buildings and shops. Knarvik has schools, a church, and an active community. The Knarvik upper secondary school is one of the county’s largest. 

    Before the 1970s, the community didn’t have more than 30 people in it. However, the council decided that Knarvik should be built up as a regional centre, and this caused the population to grow quickly. Because of this, Knarvik isn’t a very historic town, and the city centre does look a little 1970s. Now they are redoing the road, so it’s going to look like a messy construction site. 

    Masfjorden Municipality

    Masfjorden is a small municipality around the Masfjorden (a fjord). The entire municipality has a population of around 1,630 people. Masfjorden is an industrial municipality with construction, power, and water companies. There are large hydropower resrouces here because of the mountains and high rainfall. 

    Matre

    Town

    Matre is a small village with around 100 people living here. The Institute for Marine Research has a research station here. There is a fantastic museum here called the Bjørn West Museum, which shows the resistance struggle during World War II. 

    Gulen Municipality

    Gulen is a historic municipality. In historic times, the region was strategically located to both Hordaland (where Bergen is) and Sunnfjord (close to Ålesund). This was also the starting point for sailing into the Sognefjord. Finds from the Stone Age, Iron Age and Bronze Age indicate that this area has been used for thousands of years. 

    In Gulen was the Gulatinget, a place where chieftains and farmers from Western Norway gathered to settle legal disputes and pay homage to Norwegian hereditary kings. The ‘ting’ was established in 930 and the Gulating took place here for 400 years, when it was moved to Bergen. The kings, lords, and landowners met once a year and the hearing was governed by the appointed lawman. The Gulatinget is one of the most important institutions in older Norwegian history. The Gulating Act applied to most of Western Norway, the mountain areas of Valdres and Hallingdal, and the Faroe Islands and Shetland. The Gulating Act was considered one of the freest and most democratic laws in Europe 1,000 years ago. The laws in Norway today are based on the old Gulating laws. It is possible to visit the Gulatinget site today. 

    Gulen was important in the Christianisation of Western Norway. The first cross stood here before it was moved to the church Håkon Håkonsson built at Kyrkjehaugen. The areas importance eventually declined but remained an important agricultural area for the region. Gulen has many cultural relics from the Stone and Bronze Ages along the coast, and from the Viking Age around Eivindvik. There are also many old stone-built houses. 

    Otherwise, the municipality is important for agriculture and fishing. Fish farming is especially important to the community. The climate is like Bergen but snowier. 

    Oppedal - Lavik Ferry

    Ferry

    This is a short 20 minute ferry trip across the Sognefjord. 

    Høyanger Municipality

    Høyanger is part of the traditional region of Sogn, which surrounds the Sognefjord. Høyanger is known as having one of the first industrial towns in Norway. The steep mountains and rainfall were used for producing hydroelectricity needed for electrolysis. The main product produced here is aluminium. 

    The Sognefjord divides the municipality and is the fjord you will be following for the rest of the journey. The Sognefjord is Norway’s longest and deepest fjord, reaching 205km long and 1303m deep. The Sognefjord is the third-longest fjord in the world. 

    Aven

    Town

    Aven is a small village with around 15 people living here. The name comes from the word ‘vin’, which meant fertile plain in the Viking Age. There has been a settlement here for over 1,000 years but experienced depopulation after the Second World War. 

    Vadheim

    Town

    Vadheim is a small village with a population of around 238. 

    Høyanger

    Town

    Høyanger is a small settlement with around 1,983 people living there. It is an industrial town with an industrial park. The Høyanger Aluminium Works produces raw aluminium. There is also a car rim factory that supplies rims to the car factory Audi. 

    Sogndal Municipality

    Sogndal is a relatively new municipality; it was a merger between several different municipalities, including the old Balestand municipality. Sogndal is an old place and archaeological excavations show that people have been living here as far back as 700BC. Since ancient times, agriculture has been the most important trade. Fruit, especially apples, has been grown back as far as written sources.

    Sogndal emerged as an industrial community towards the end of the 19th century. There has been a matchstick factory here and later a wool mill and then a bottling plant for softdrinks and fruit juices. A hydroelectric plant was built here in 1911 and was one of the first ones to be built in rural Norway. 

    Balestrand

    Balestrand is the last stop on today’s drive and a perfect place to spend some time if you want to enjoy the fjords. Balestrand has been a well-known tourist spot since the end of the 1800s.

    Balestrand is home to Kviknes Hotel, a historic hotel from 1877. This hotel is where Kaiser Wilhelm II received the message about the outbreak of the First World War. The church has been owned by the Kvikne family ever since it opened. The hotel has 195 rooms.

    St. Olafs Church is a well-known wooden church from 1897. It is often known as the English church because one of the English tourists who visited in the 19th century, climbing pioneer Margaret Sophia Green, enjoyed the Norwegian mountains so much that she married the innkeeper of Kviknes Hotel, Knut Kvikne, and moved to the area. Sadly, she contracted tuberculosis and died in 1894. On her deathbed, she told her husband that she had a dream that an English church would be built in Balestrand.

    Knut Kvikne allocated a big plot of land close to the hotel and, with the generous help of monetary gifts from two American women, built the church. The church is designed to look like a stave church.

    Balestrand is also where you can visit an apple farm called Ciderhuset to go on a tour or buy some cider. There is also the Norwegian Reiselivsmuseum, or the Museum of Tourism in Norway, and the Sognefjord Aquarium. Tours on the fjord and to a nearby glacier can be organised from Balestrand.

  • Why You Should Visit Mosjøen on Your Norwegian Road-trip

    Why You Should Visit Mosjøen on Your Norwegian Road-trip

    During our Norwegian Coastal Road-trip of 2021, I decided on a whim that we should stop in Mosjøen on the long drive between Mo i Rana and Trondheim. I’d heard of the town before and that it was quite beautiful. However, I was totally blown away by how charming and picturesque the town was.

    In this guide, I’ve highlighted the best bits of Mosjøen. The town is perfect for an overnight stop on a road-trip, and there’s plenty in town to keep you busy.

    I think Mosjøen is one of Norway’s best-kept secrets, and after visiting I think you’ll also understand why!

    In this article...

    History of Mosjøen

    Mosjøen is actually the oldest town in the traditional region of Helgeland, so the city is worth visiting if you are interested in historic places.

    The first mention of Mosjøen was in the 15th century, when it was mentioned in a land register. The area around Mosjøen was owned by the archdiocese of Nidaros in Trondheim until the Reformation. After the Reformation in 1537, all church property was transferred to the King. Mosjøen was owned by the Danish King until 1666, when King Frederik II transferred all public property to a man called Joachim Irgens, who was a Danish official and chamberlain to King Frederik III. This was the largest real estate transaction and privatisation in the Nordics ever. After Irgens died, the estate was broken up into several smaller ones.

    In the 18th century, Mosjøen had several merchants living here. They travelled to Bergen to sell their goods until 1794, when the merchant Erik Jorgen Sjursson was given the right to open a trading business and a guesthouse.

    Trade Growth & Market Rights

    In the 19th century, Mosjøen grew to become a small urban community that centered around trade. Those who did not have land to cultivate became artisans or day labourers, and Mosjøen became known for its many shoemakers, blacksmiths, and other craftsmen. Many took part in the Lofoten fishing season and Mosjøen was a meeting place between the Swedes, fishermen, farmers, and Sami.

    The First Industrial Wave

    Mosjøen’s development took an abrupt turn in 1856, when English immigrants founded the English Mill (Engelskbruket). The possibility of building sawmills led to many people settling in Mosjøen to try and make it big in the timber industry.

    The town was transformed into a modern trade and official town. The urban business life developed in the form of book shops, fashion shops, and eateries. By the end of the 19th century, Mosjøen had magazine publishers, pharmacists, photographers, hat makers and tons of eateries.

    The timber industry was not all positive. The forests surrounding Mosjøen were clearly marked by logging and the destruction of the environment. Because of the extensive logging, several farmers were forced to give up their farms and move.

    The timber industry slowed down in Mosjøen around the year 1899.

    World War II

    Mosjøen was captured by the Nazis on the 11th of May 1940. The Nazis used Mosjøen to transport people and goods for warfare to the far north. Several facilities including a Nazi headquarters and military camp were established in the town. During the evacuation of Finnmark in 1944, many evacuees came to Mosjøen.

    Thankfully, Mosjøen is one of the few towns in Northern Norway that was not extensively bombed.

    Second Industrial Period

    After the war, a new kind of industry came to Mosjøen. An aluminium plant opened in 1958 and is by far the largest industrial establishment in the city.

    As you drive into Mosjøen, you may wonder why I recommend it as a place to visit. The outskirts of the town have a very rough, industrial feel. But trust me and head into the city!

    Mosjøen Today

    Today the population of Mosjøen is around 9,812. Along with Narvik and Mo i Rana, Mosjøen is one of the industrial towns of the county Nordland. Mosjøen Aluminiumsverk is amongst the largest aluminium companies in Europe.

    Mosjøen is located in the middle of Sandnessjoen, Mo i Rana and Bronnoysund. It is about halfway between Trondheim and Bodo and is located on the Nordlandsbanen train.

    Sjøgata is one of the most charming streets in Northern Norway

    Sjøgata is the main street of historic Mosjøen. After the establishment of the English sawmill in 1866, Mosjøen turned into a meeting place for the English timber barons, forestry workers, Sami lumberjacks and Swedish mountain farmers who came down to barter, and tailors selling the latest styles from London or Paris.

    Post-war decline

    After World War II, Sjøgata was a street not many went to. It was left run-down and in decline, and many saw it as a disgrace to the town. Living on Sjøgata became synonymous with poverty. The eagerness to tear down Sjøgata was so strong that a slogan “tear everything down” became common in the 1970s. You can’t blame them, though. The post-war years created a huge boom in the population and a need for parking spaces in the city, and Sjøgata was prime real estate.

    Mosjøen

    Restoration

    Thankfully, a few very passionate locals were able to campaign to protect Mosjøen. Even the then Crown Princess Sonja got involved in saving the street.

    The association Lydiabryggas Venner contributed to the building not being demolished and then supported the restoration of all the buildings.

    Today the project is considered a success and Sjøgata is the main reason many people come to Mosjøen. Sjøgata has Northern Norway’s longest continuous settlement of wooden houses and piers from the 19th century. Most of the buildings today are heritage listed and an emphasis has been put on preserving the old building techniques, details and colours.

    Wandering Down Sjøgata

    Thankfully, a few very passionate locals were able to campaign to protect Mosjøen. Even the then Crown Princess Sonja got involved in saving the street.

    The association Lydiabryggas Venner contributed to the building not being demolished and then supported the restoration of all the buildings.

    Today the project is considered a success and Sjøgata is the main reason many people come to Mosjøen. Sjøgata has Northern Norway’s longest continuous settlement of wooden houses and piers from the 19th century. Most of the buildings today are heritage listed and an emphasis has been put on preserving the old building techniques, details and colours.

    Sjøgata

    As you wander down Sjøgata, you’ll be spoiled for choice for the best photograph. Many of these houses are still private residences, so do be respectful of that. However, do take the time to visit some of the local boutiques.

    If you are interested in the history of the buildings, each building has a small sign in Norwegian explaining the history. At the tourist office you can pick up a booklet called The History of a Town that will provide you with an English translation.

    Mosjøen is Home to Northern Norway's Oldest Hotel

    Located at one end of Sjøgata, Fru Haugan Hotel is the oldest hotel in Northern Norway. The hotel opened in 1794, and ever since 1885 the same family has owned the business. It has been run by women for several generations.

    The hotel has a lovely garden and a very nice restaurant called Restaurant Ellen.

    Stay in one of the restored houses

    Some of the houses on Mosjøen have been converted into guesthouses. You can rent them on the following website: https://kulturverkstedet.ipage.no/overnatting/

    Visit the Museums

    In Mosjøen is the Helgeland Museum. Helgeland is the name of the traditional district along the coast; Norway’s Coastal Road is often called the Helgeland Coastal Road because it mostly covers this traditional district. At the museum you’ll learn about the history of the town but also check out the temporary exhibitions, concerts and other events.

    Another the museum is the Vefsn Museum. Vefsn is the name of the municipality that we are in. The museum has local art installations and some hsitory about the area. Close to the museum is the rural building collection, made up of 12 farmhouses, shops and other wooden buildings from the 18th and 19th centuries. Your ticket to the Vefsn Museum includes this outdoor building collection.

    A regional centre for culture

    The building that houses the Kulturverkstedet was built in 1862 by the merchant Jacob C. Jacobsen. The building was the largest and grandest mercantile building in Mosjøen. The building opened in 1984 as a culture house. It has a venue for meetings and conferences, but it also has a café and gallery.

    The Christmas Town of Norway

    The locals in Mosjøen regard themselves as the ‘Christmas town’ of Norway, and around Christmas they host the world’s longest porridge table. The town also hosts plenty of events and stalls around Christmas. They have their own Facebook page, which you can view here: https://www.facebook.com/julebyenmosjoen/

    Try the Famous Coffee!

    Matkollektivet Vikgården is a famous café in Mosjøen because it still brews coffee in the old-fashioned way. The coffee is so tasty (and strong!) The café is housed in a restored grocery store from the 1880s and also has some excellent cinnamon buns.

    Head out for some local food

    Gilles Café is a popular café amongst locals. Otherwise, you can try Blomsterbua for some amazing Italian-style pizzas. But Emma, is Italian really local? Well, probably not. But this is the most popular place for the locals to do. Do as the locals do and get a pizza!

    Inside Fru Haugens Hotel you’ll find a more traditional Norwegian menu at the Restaurant Ellen. Menu items include beef, duck and clipfish.

    Mosjøen

    Explore the great outdoors!

    Mosjøen is perfectly situated if you want to take part in some outdoor activities. Close to the town is the Helgelandstrappa or the Helgeland Stairs, a challenging 3,000 steps laid down by sherpas up the mountain Øyfjellet, which is 800m (2600ft) above the town. It’s worth it for the views!

    Practical Information

    Mosjøen is located just off the European Highway 6, the main highway running through Norway. There is a huge carpark outside Sjøsiden Senter, a shopping mall.

  • Drive it Yourself: E6 from Mo i Rana to Trondheim

    Drive it Yourself: E6 from Mo i Rana to Trondheim

    The E6 (European Highway 6) is the main highway that runs through Norway. This section, from Mo i Rana to Trondheim, runs primarily through the county of Trøndelag. While not as dramatic as some other stretches of road on the E6, it’s the way between central Norway and Northern Norway, and there are some nice places to stop along the way. 

    You’ll probably use this road if you are looking to get to Northern Norway quickly. Sure, the coastal road is much more scenic, but the E6 is much quicker. There are some beautiful spots to stop at along the way, which I’ve done my best to highlight below. 

    In this article...

    Downloadable Version of This Guide

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

    Online Guide

    Downloadable Guide

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    The E6 Between Mo i Rana & Trondheim

    Mo i Rana

    This drive begins in Mo i Rana. You can find a detailed overview of Mo i Rana on our travel guide. 

    Hemnes Municipality

    Hemnes Municipality is located in Nordland County . The municipality focuses on agriculture, power production, the mechanical industry, wood products and boat building. The coat of arms represents this industry with a boat clamp in gold against a blue backdrop.

    Hemnes has the oldest operating local radio network in Norway, called Radio Korgen, which was established in 1982.

    Finneidfjord

    Village

    Finneidfjord is a small settlement. The name comes from its Sami heritage; Finniedt was a Sami farm first mentioned in 1567. The settlement saw growth starting in 1925 with the establishment of a margarine factory. The margarine factory was very well-known in Norway until it was bought out and closed in 1973. A caviar factory was built on the same site and operated until 2007, when it closed down.

    Bjerka

    Town

    Bjerka is a small town located at the mouth of the river Røssåga. One of the main employers in town is the slaughterhouse, which slaughters cattle, pugs and sheep producing dry beef and pork ribs. Since 2008, it has been the only slaughterhouse in Nordland County. About 90 employees work here.  

    Korgen

    Town

    Korgen is the main town for Hemnes municipality. Many Norwegians have heard of Korgen because of the Korgenfjellet mountain range, which is perfect for skiing. Because of that, the town is quite popular for people staying for a few days to take advantage of the mountains. The tallest mountain in Northern Norway, Oksskolten, is located here. Korgen is also close to the Okstindan Nature and Culture Park.

    The Okstindan Nature and Culture Park is a centre full of hiking trails, ski trails, and history. It includes the “Blood Trail”, which chronicles the Nazi’s attempt to construct a railway to Narvik and the Soviet POWs tasked with building the railway. There are also glaciers and caves to explore.

    You can easily spend a few days here if you love the outdoors. Visit the park website for more detailed information about what you can see and do. https://visitokstindan.com/en/kategori/the-okstindan-nature-and-cultural-park/

    Sandnessjøen

    Sandnessjøen is a charming little town located on the Hegleland Coastal Road (one of Norway’s 18 National Tourist Roads). It’s a lovely place to visit, but the detour can be a little lengthy. It takes about 45 minutes to get there from the E6, but you’d want to spend a little time in the area driving around to see the Seven Sisters and surrounding region.

    You can learn about Sandnessjøen by reading my travel guide (to the left). 

    Vefsn Municipality

    Vefsn is a municipality with arguably the best coat-of-arms in Norway – a surprised chicken! The name Vefsn comes from the river Vefsna, which flows through the municipality into the Vefsnfjorden. The meaning of the name is unknown.

    The main town centre for Vefsn is Mosjøen, a town a highly recommend visiting on this drive. The landscape is dominated by spruce forests, mountains, lakes, agriculture, and the river.

    This area is very old; there are traces of settlement in Vefsn back to the Stone Age. Among other things, Norway’s oldest skis have been found in Drevja. Vefsn also appears in the story of how Torolv Kveldulvsson demanded the ‘Finn treasure’ in Egils saga, and the road where this supposedly took place is now called “Toraveien”.

    Mosjøen

    Mosjøen is an adorable small town located on the Helgeland coast, and I highly recommend visiting here. It is, in fact, the oldest town in Helgeland (the name of the traditional region in) and the second-oldest town in Nordland County after Bodø. Mosjøen was declared a trading place in 1875 and has historically been an important industrial and transportation town. Many of the original wooden buildings are still standing today, making it a charming town to go walking through.

    Grane Municipality

    Grane (Sami name: Gaala) is a small municipality within Nordland County. It is located in the southernmost part of Nordland County, and it links Nordland with the next county, Trøndelag. The main town for Grane is Trofors, which we’ll drive through.

    The name Grane comes from an old farm that used to be here. The farm is known from the Middle Ages, but it rose to prominence in the 17th century. The main industries here are agriculture, forestry, and some reindeer husbandry. Grane is one of the southernmost settlements of the Sami people, and about 10 reindeer husbandry units operate here.

    Laksforsen

    Cafe

    Soon after the Grane municipality sign is Laksforsen, a rest stop and cafe. It is located by a waterfall and has lovely views out to Vefsna river. 

    You can visit their website here. 

    Vefsna River

    River

    The Vefsna River (Sami name: Vaapstenjeanoe) is the largest river in Nordland County – about 163km (101 mi) long. The river flows north, not far from the Swedish border. At Mosjøen, the river empties into the Vefsnfjord.

    Historically Vefsna was known for its salmon, but due to a parasite the salmon population have declined. So, while salmon fishing can’t be done here anymore, it is still possible to fish for trout and char. A fishing licence is required to fish here.

    Brønnøysund

    Trofors is located at the junction between the E6 and Highway 73, which runs between Brønnøysund and Sweden. Both are about 40 minutes from this junction, and each is a great detour.

    I’ve covered Brønnøysund at the travel guide section. 

    Trofors

    Village

    Trofors (Sami name: Trovvegarse) is the main centre for Grane. It is located at the main junction between the European Highway 6 and the Norwegian National Road 73, which runs between Brønnøysund and Tårnaby in Sweden. The town is primarily an agricultural town, but there are over 2,000 fishing lakes here too, making it great for fishing.

    Majavatn

    Village

    Majavatn (Sami name: Maajehjaevrie) is a small village at the bottom of Grane municipality. It has a substaintial Sami settlement who work with reindeer husbandry. Majavatn is also known from World War II. There were confrontations between the Germans and the Norwegian citizens at a nearby farm, and many of the Norwegians involved were later executed by Germans at Falstad concentration camp in 1942.

    Crossing into Trøndelag

    County Border

    As you leave Nordland County there is a fun sign over the highway with ‘Trøndelag’ on the side we are going and ‘Nord Norge’ on the opposite side, signifying the boundary between Trøndelag County and Norland County. There is a carpark by the sign so you can take some photos, and there’s also a rest area.

    Trøndelag Municipality

    We have now crossed into Trøndelag County, which is in the central part of Norway. A person from Trøndelag is known as a trønder, which the dialect here is called trøndersk.

    People have lived in Trøndelag for thousands of years, and during the Iron Age Trøndelag was divided into several petty kingdoms, each with their own common law and all sharing the parliament or thing called Frostating. This is sometimes regarded as the first real democracy.

    Trøndelag was well-known during the Viking Age, and many of Norway’s most famous Vikings lived here. Before the capital was moved to Bergen in 1214, Trøndelag was the site of many of the famous palaces and residences of the Kings. When Bergen (and eventually Oslo) became the capital, Trøndelag’s importance in Norway declined. Today Trøndelag is known for its well-preserved Viking history and the Nidaros Cathedral, located in Trondheim.

    The proximity to Sweden has led to conflicts over the years. Trøndelag was briefly ceded to Sweden in 1658 in the Treaty of Roskilde. It was returned to Denmark-Norway after the Treaty of Copenhagen in 1660. Another attempt was made in 1718 by the Swedes to take Trøndelag, but they were not successful.

    Trøndelag has a diverse climate and geography. Along the coast are the largest islands in Norway south of the Arctic Circle. The south-western part of Trøndelag is separated from Norway by large mountain ranges, especially the Dovrefjell and Trollheimen Mountain Ranges. Closer to the Swedish border the land flattens into a high valley, where Røros is located. In the north, there are several large valleys and flatlands. The rivers in Trøndelag are among the best salmon rivers in Eruope.

    The climate varies dramatically depending on where in the county you are. Closer to the sea has a oceanic climate with mild, wet winters, while closer to the Swedish border are some of the lowest temperatures in Norway during winter. Røros, for example, is the only place in south-central Norway to have recorded -50C (-58F). Most of the lowland areas have a humid continental climate, while the inland valleys, hills and highlands have a boreal climate.

    Trøndelag is primarily an agricultural region, with some of the most fertile land in Norway. Most of the production is meat and milk. Other traditional industries are forestry, mining, and fishing. Today Trøndelag has significant hydropower and wind power companies that support power-intensive industries such as the various timber mills. Aquaculture countes for half of Trøndelag’s export value. The oil and gas industry is also significant. Trondheim is a centre for higher education and has the largest educational institution at the country’s largest university, NTNU.

    The region is known for its moonshine homebrew, known as heimbrent. It is officially banned, but the art of producing moonshine has a strong following in parts of Trøndelag. Traditionally the spirit is served mixed with coffee to create a drink called karsk. The official dish is sodd, made from diced sheep or beef meat and meatballs in boiled stock. The Norwegian Grey Troender sheep is an endangered breed of domesticated sheep originally from Trøndelag. There are approximately 50 sheep left, and efforts are being made to revive the breed.

    Nammskogan Municipality

    We are currently in the upper part of the Namdalen valley, and the municipality takes its name from this. The municipality is heavily forested with several large lakes and the river Namsen running through it.

    Namdalen (Sami name: Nååmesjevuemie) is also the name of the traditional district here. There are three towns here: Namsos, Rørvik and Kolvereid. The rest are small villages and settlements. The river Namsen is one of the best salmon rivers in Europe (only the Tana River in Finnmark has a larger catch of salmon). Agriculture and forestry are also, understandable, important to Namdalen. Norway spruce is the main tree species.

    Namsen River

    River

    The Namsen River (Sami name: Nååmesje) is one of the longest rivers in Trøndelag – around 228km (142 mi) long. It has traditionally been used for floating timber down from the forests to the town of Namsos, where the sawmills were located. The river begins in springs in the Børgefjell National Park and travels through the valley, ending at the coast in Namsos. It is considered one fo the best Atlantic Salmon fishing rivers in the world and is often called the ’Queen of Rivers’. Catching salmon that weigh 23kg (51lb) is not unusual.

    Børgefjellet National Park

    National Park (Detour)

    Børgefjellet National Park is a scenic off-the-beaten path national park with high mountains, rivers, and mountain lakes. The landscape has remnants of Sami domestic reindeer herding, which continues still today. It is a place to go fishing or take some lovely hikes. It is a largely undeveloped area with virtually no construction activity. If you do want to spend some time here, you need to be aware of where you are and camp in the area. The park is located in the centre of Norway along the Swedish border and is also home to the Scandinavian Mountain range.

    Brekkvasselv

    Village

    Brekkvasselv is a tiny village in Namsdalen. The village is also known as Ælva, and a person from Brekkvasselv is known as an Ælving. The first peoples settled here in the 20th century, coming from other places in Norway. However, the Sami have been here for thousands of years, and reindeer herding took place in the highlands.

    The people who came here in the 20th century came because they were helping with the construction of the Nordlandsbanen, and if they settled here they were offered free plots of land to build on.

    Grong Municipality

    Grong (Sami name: Kråangke) is a municipality in Trøndelag with Medjå being the main town. The name comes from an old farm, and the first element is an Old Norse word for spruce. This is also represented on the coat-of-arms; the three spruce trees represent the three main villages in the municipality.

    One of the main waterfalls here is Fiskumfoss, an economically important waterfall that is used for power production. There is also a salmon ladder here. A salmon aquarium has been built by the waterfall, where you can sit and eat salmon while watching the waterfall. The building also has the Norwegian Sport Fishing History Museum. Burial mounds are also found throughout the area from the older Iron Age, and there are ancient moose hunting grounds, house foundations, and roads.

    Medjå/Grong

    Village

    We are passing the village of Medjå, which is sometimes called Grong. It is a small village with a petrol station and supermarket.

    Snåsa Municipality

    Snåsa (South Sami: Snåase) is a small but important municipality: it is one of the last strongholds of the seriously endangered Southern Sami language. In Snåsa you’ll find the Saemien Sijte, which is the national museum of South Sami history and culture. The goal of the museum is to strengthen South Sami identity and a sense of community. Next to the museum is a primary school that teaches the South Sami language.

    The coat-of-arms represents a yellow Lady Slipper orchid on a blue background. At least 15 species of orchid have been found growing in Snåsa, and they are known as some of the magnificent orchids in Scandinavia.

    Snåsavatnet / Snåsa Lake

    Lake

    The lake we see straight ahead is Snåsavatnet, the sixth-largest lake in Norway at 122km2 (47 sq mi). The lake reaches depths of up to 186m (610ft) and was made by glacial erosion.

    Egge

    Historic Site (Detour)

    We are passing the exit to Egge. Egge is a known Viking town, and it was home to the powerful chieftains who gathered the peasants to fight against Olav Haraldsson in the Battle of Stiklestad in 1030.

    The museum has a reconstructed manor and fun activities for kids. For the adults, the cultural landscape is preserved and there are a number of hiking trails you can take to enjoy the ancient scenery.

    Click here to read more. 

    Steinkjer Municipality

    Steinkjer is one of the larger municipalities in the region, though its population density is very low, with just 12.6 inhabitants per sq km (33 sq mi). The population has increased by 2.4% over the last 10 years. The coat-of-arms shows a verranjekt, a type of boat that is very common in the area. It’s a new coat-of-arms from 2020.

    The area around Steinkjer is historic – it has been populated since the Stone Age. Rock carvings can be seen in the area, and the oldest are 6,000 years old. During the Viking Age, Steinkjer was an important base and Maere was one of the best known religious places with sacrifices and gatherings before Christianity came to the country.

    The town of Steinkjer was sadly bombed during World War II. The attack destroyed a large part of Steinkjer, and many priceless historic buildings, including the church, were lost. The town was quickly rebuilt after the war with the help of aid from the United States. Much of the architecture found in Steinkjer is from the 1950s and 1960s and is inspired by functionalism. One of the few buildings to survive the bombing is the train station, which is designed in art nouveau.

    Steinkjer is one of the northernmost areas with rich agriculture, allowing large production of grain. You’ll notice as you drive through just how important grain production is to the area. Tall grain silos can be seen all over the landscape.

    Inderøy Municipality

    Inderøy is an agricultural municipality located in North Trøndelag. The municipality has been inhabited since the Middle Ages, and the village of Sakshaug used to be an important political centre. It is home to one of the oldest churches in the area, Old Sakshaug Church, from 1184.

    The coat-of-arms shows the European plaice. The fish was once plentiful int he waters and was one of the main sources of income in the area until around 1940. Fishing is still important to the region. Farming is also very important to the area, and most of the municipality is cultivated. Grass and grain are the most common crops, but strawberries are also common. Most farmers have their own forest, too.

    The population density is 19.4 inhabitants per sq km (50/sq mi). The population has increased by 15.9% over the last 10 years.

    One of the most prominent 20th century Norwegian sculptors, Nils Aas, is from this area.

    Verdal Municipality

    People have lived at Verdal since the Stone Age, and there are farms in the region that are mentioned as far back as the 12th century. The municipality is best known for the site Stiklestad, where we are heading to next.

    A unique word to learn for this area is råning. It refers to all the young people here who are interested in cars. They spend a lot of their time improving or styling their cars and then driving them on a particular route to show them off.

    The economy here is supported by the offshore industry as well as agriculture. Verdal is also known as one of the greatest lottery towns of Norway, with several lottery grand prizes going to people living in Verdal.

    Stiklestad

    Historic Site (Detour)

    Stiklestad is one of the most important religious sites in the country. It is where, in 1030, St. Olav fell in battle during the Battle of Stiklestad. His sainthood arose from this death.

    Today Stiklestad feels like a bit of a tourist trap – they’ve built up all these new centres, exhibitions and hotels in the last 20 years – but there’s still historical interest in visiting here.

    You can read my separate guide to Stiklestad below.

    Levanger Town Centre

    Town

    Shortly after the Falstad Centre, we pass turn-offs to Levanger. If you want to visit the main street, just follow signs towards Levanger. I mentioned the history of Levanger town centre in the section about Levanger municipality.

    Munkeby Abbey Ruins

    Historic Site (Detour)

    Just after Levanger town is the turn-off to the ruins of Munkeby Abbey. It’s just a short drive from the E6, and is a nice area to go to stretch your legs.

    The Munkeby Abbey was founded some time between 1150 and 1180 and it was the most northly Cistercian foundation in the world. It was likely built by English monks. The monastery was eventually closed down, though the church was used until 1587.

    Falstad Centre

    WWWII Site (Detour)

    You can visit the Falstad Centre, which is an old concentration camp from World War II. Today it is a museum. Read a more detailed article below. 

    Stjørdal Municipality

    We have arrived in Stjørdal, which has an amazing coat-of-arms! The design is modern but comes from the old medieval seal of Stjørdal, which dates from 1344. The dragon is a symbol of Saint Margaret of Antioch, and the old seal showed Saint Margaret standing on a slain dragon. It has always stood as a symbol for authority, power, and exalted dignity of the region.  Stjørdal is the location of Steinvikholm Castle, a nice detour.

    Steinviksholmen Castle

    Historic Site (Detour)

    How to get here:

    Steinviksholmen is clearly marked on Google Maps. It’s just off the E6 and marked with brown tourist signs the entire way. It’s about 10-15 minutes off the E6.

    The road is very narrow, and you’ll have to watch out for traffic coming the other way.

    —–

    Steinvikholmen Castle is a 16th century castle constructed by Norway’s last Roman Catholic Bishop, Olav Engelbrektsson. After meeting with the Pope, Olav’s resistance to the Danish rule and the Reformation escalated. Steinvikholm was built as the Catholic churches military stronghold. The castle was finished in 1532, but sadly for Olav the Reformation succeeded in 1537 and Olav was forced to flee to Lier. It was the last Catholic stronghold in Norway. When Olav fled, he left Saint Olav’s shrine and other treasures, and they were returned to Nidaros Cathedral in 1568.

    After the Reformation, the site was used as a quarry and some of its masonry was sold off. Since the late 19th century, the site has been owned and operated by the Past Memory Association (Fortidsminneforeningen). It is used as concert hall for a midnight opera, Olav Engelbrektsson, which details the life and struggles of the archbishop. The opera takes place annually.

    Steinvikholm Castle is Norway’s largest structure from the Middle Ages.

    In summer, it is open as a museum. There are also photographs and information boards (Norwegian and English) around the site. You can walk around the fortress for free, but the interior is what costs money. When we visited, we saw lots of kids swimming in the water around the fortress.

    You park on the mainland and pay a small fee (they use Vipps to accept parking payment), and then walk across the bridge (photographed) to the castle. The entrance is on the other side from my photos.

    Even if you aren’t interested in the castle, the surrounding scenery is gorgeous.

    Hell Station

    Train Station

    Hell is a small village by Trondheim Airport. The village has become a bit of a tourist attraction because of its name, which means “luck” in English. In modern Norwegian, the word for “hell” is “helvete”. The sign underneath says “Gods Expedition”, which actually means “Cargo Handling” in English. Stop by the train station and get a photo!

    Malvik Municipality

    Malvik is a small municipality just outside of Trondheim. It is one of the few municipalities in the area seeing population growth, with the population rising 13% of the last 10 years. Many people work in Trondheim. The coat-of-arms shows a black capercaillie, which is a symbol for the rich nature in the area.

    Trondheim Municipality

    Trondheim (South Sami name Tråante) is the third-most populous municipality in Norway, though it’s the fourth largest urban area. The settlement is a known Viking area, and Trondheim itself has many famous monuments from medieval times. There’s so much to say about Trondheim, so you can read a detailed overview by clicking the button below. 

    Trondheim

    We have now arrived in Trondheim! A detailed overview of Trondheim can be found on the travel guide section of The Hidden North. 

    This is the end of our two-week drive from Trondheim to Senja and back again. Be sure to check out our next series, summer in the West Fjords!

    Previous Drive

    Narvik to Mo i Rana on the E6

    See the previous day’s drive on the E6 between Narvik and Mo i Rana

    This drive is part of the multi-day series “From Trondheim to the Lofoten Islands & Back Again”, where we travel from Trondheim to Lofoten via the Coastal Road, and then take the E6 back south to Trondheim. You can view the entire drive below. 

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!