Telemark

  • The Most Haunted Places in Norway

    The Most Haunted Places in Norway

    Norway is the land of folktales and trolls, but haunted places can be a little tricky to find. In fact, when I was making a ghost tour of Bergen, I got stuck because many Norwegians don’t believe in ghosts! Still, with all the history to be found in Norway, there have been some gruesome incidents that have led to tales of hauntings, so I did a deep dive online to find the most haunted places in the country.

    Here are some of the stories on the most haunted places in Norway that I found. Will you add these to your Norwegian adventure? Be sure to let me know!

    The Most Haunted Places in Bergen

    I wrote a seperate guide for the most haunted places in Bergen, which you can view below. 

    The Most Haunted Places in Norway

    Akershus Fortress (Oslo)

    Akershus Fortress is probably one of the least surprising haunted location Norway. There are few places in Norway that have more supernatural tales than in the fortress. Most of the stories come from the time the fortress functioned as a prison for Norway’s most notorious criminals. During their time at the prison, they would be forced to do hard labour and the prison guards used irons, chains and isolation as disciplinary techniques. There have been reports of whispers and scratching along the fortress hallways.

    There is another haunted tale of Akershus Fortress – the demon dog Malcanisen. It is said of Malcanisen approaches you, then it means you will soon die; everyone who encounters him dies within three months. There have also been sightings of ‘nightpyres’ – burning women the size of babies with awful smiles. Their appearance is thought to precede a fire at the fortress. 

    Nidaros Cathedral (Trondheim)

    I remember visiting Nidaros Cathedral with the intent of learning about the ghost stories, as this one fascinated me the most. Considering the cathedral’s history, it is probably not so surprising that there are tales of ghosts here. 

    The ghost here is in fact a monk. The monk was first seen in 1924 by bishop Marie Gleditsch, who claimed the apparition had a bloody gash along its throat as though it had just been cut. There was even blood dripping from the wound!

    There have been frequent reports of inexplicable chanting and organ music in the cathedral late at night. 

    However, keep in mind this ghost is a little controversial as historians claim no order of monks were ever connected to the cathedral. 

    Munkholmen (Trondheim)

    This tiny island has been an abbey, fort and a prison. People have heard and seen mysterious appearances here. Many believe the ghost to be the famous prisoner Peder Schumacher Griffenfeld, who was imprisoned on the island for 18 years.

    Utstein Kloster (Stavanger)

    Utstein Abbey is the only medieval monastery in Norway that’s still in operation. As a former monastery, it has housed many men – but it’s a woman’s presence that still lingers in the place today. In the 18th century, the monastery was bought by the Garmann family. Christoffer Garmann lived there with his wife, Cecilia, who unfortunately died in childbirth in 1759 at 25 years old. Despite his promise to her on her deathbed that he would never marry again, Christoffer got engaged to a woman 36 years younger than him (!) 20 years later.

    Hoping to escape the promise to his wife, he arranged for the wedding to happen in Stavanger Cathedral. But Cecilia found him anyway, appearing in front of him in the middle of the ceremony. Christoffer died eight days later. Cecilia has been seen wandering the monastery in her wedding dress, presumably to make a point.

    Dalen Hotel (Dalen)

    It’s not just historic fortresses and churches that are haunted, but hotels too! Dalen is one of the most beautiful historic hotels in Norway. . Located in the small village of Dalen in Telemark, the hotel was built in the late 19th century to accommodate guests taking the Telemark Canal. Guests and staff share accounts of Room 17’s notoriety, where the spirit referred to as “The English Lady” lingers in her eternal unrest.

    Originally known as Miss Greenfield of England, she arrived at Dalen Hotel one spring morning during the late 19th century and stayed as a guest for several months. Remarkably, her pregnancy remained a secret from the hotel’s staff. After she left, they made a grim discovery in the room – a lifeless infant. Miss Greenfield was arrested and charged with murder but took her own life before the trial could begin.

    To this day, a table is set for her at the hotel restaurant. The sound of a baby crying can be heard. 

    Source (Article in Norwegian)

    Hotel Union Øye (Øye)

    Hotel Union Øye is a charming historic hotel located in the Sunnmøre region near the Hjørundfjord and Geirangerfjord. Here, though, a tragic love story took place at the end of the 19th century. 

    This ghost story involves Linda, a servant girl who fell in love with a German officer. The officer was trapped in an unhappy marriage and he fell in love with Linda. Whenever the officer would visit the hotel, he and Linda would stay in the ‘Blue Room’.

    The officer tried to get a divorce but was denied. This upset him to the point that he committed suicide. As you can imagine, Linda was heartbroken by this. She ended up taking her own life too.

    People hear the ghost of Linda weeping in the Blue Room. Guests checking into the hotel get a silver bowl of garlic. If you’ve had a long trip and just don’t feel in the mood for ghostly shenanigans, you can keep the bowl in your room. However, if you’re curious, all you have to do is leave the bowl outside the door and wait. 

    Source (Article in Norwegian)

    Bærums Verk (Oslo)

    Bærums Verk is a historic village and ironworks located just out of Oslo. The Værtshuset restaurant here is one of the most notorious haunted places in the country – it is also one of the oldest restaurants of its kind in Norway as it opened in 1640. Many accounts of supernatural occurrences have been documented here. Many attribute these phenomena to the ghostly presence of Anna Krefting, the woman who managed and oversaw Bærums Verk for five decades during the 18th century. She has been spotted several times in the restaurants second floor, eternally dressed in green.

    In the administration building of Bærum Verks shopping district, there have been reports of a phone that rings every night at the exact same time. Those who pick up never hear anything but an odd, static hissing sound in the other end.

    Lier Asylum

    Lier Asylum is probably the most famous of the haunted places in Norway, at least among Norwegians. The old Lier Psychiatric Hospital opened in 1926. Between the 1930s and 1960s, the hospital started “experimental treatments” which included subjecting patients to lobotomies, LSD, and medically induced comas for days at a time. Due to the disproportionate ratio of patients to nurses, there were lots of reports of violence. Many of the old buildings have been torn down to make way for new housing, and the other buildings will also be renovated as apartments. Would you buy an apartment in that building?

    Article about Lier Asylum (in Norwegian)

    The Church Ruins of Nes (Vormsund)

    Over time, there have been accounts of peculiar phenomena, strange noises and unusual illuminations within the ruins of Nes Church in Vormsund. At the heart of these occurrences lies the enigmatic figure of Jacob Christian Finckenhagen, a priest who served the church from 1800 to 1837.

    The tales surrounding his life and fate remain a subject of controversy. Some assert that his offspring are interred within the walls behind the alter, while others claim he met his demise by hanging from the church rafters.

    Alternatively, it’s suggested that he simply succumbed to old age. Regardless of the uncertainty, numerous reports persist of his restless spirit wandering the church ruins during the night. Some visitors claim their movements become impaired and sluggish like they are submerged in water.

    Fredriksten Fortress (Halden)

    Fredriksten is a historic fortress in the town of Halden and is historically one of Norway’s most significant fortresses.

    Here you’ll find the White Lady – Den Hvite Dame – who is said to reside at the fortress. She was once the fortress commander’s mistress. After her lover was killed by a cannonball fired by Swedish forces attacking the fortress, his remains were not recovered. She killed herself by jumping off the fortress wall and is said to appear near the white tower at midnight.

    The Most Haunted Places in Norway

    There are so many fascinating historic sites in Norway, and the fact that they have these tales and legends makes them even more interesting to visit. Would you visit these haunted places in Norway?

    If I’ve missed a story, be sure to let me know!

  • Drive it Yourself: Scenic Telemark Drive on the Fv37 & Fv38

    Drive it Yourself: Scenic Telemark Drive on the Fv37 & Fv38

    Telemark is a region in southern Norway famous for its natural beauty and industrial heritage. On this drive, we’ll pass the birthplace of skiing, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and go to one of Norway’s highest peaks! To finish it all off, we visit Norway’s largest stave church. Join me for a beautiful drive through Telemark.

    In this article...

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    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    The Drive: Telemark

    Kongsberg

    Kongsberg is a historic mining town located in the southern part of Norway. It was also one of the wealthiest and important towns in Norway until the mid-19th century, making it an interesting place to visit. Kongsberg was established as an industrial town based on silver mines in 1623. It was initiated by King Christian IV, who brought Germans from the silver mines in Saxony to show the Norwegians how to mine. Kongsberg was Norway’s largest mining community and is the country’s oldest industrial town. It was Norway’s second-largest town in the mid-19th century, after Bergen.

    Løka Gamle Bridge

    Historic Bridge

    The Løka old bridge is a girder bridge from 1924 designed to cross the Jondalselva. It is built in concrete, which works the same way as steel in truss bridges. The railing supports the bridge, which is also called the whale bridge. There are only three bridges of this type in Norway. It replaced an older stone vault bridge, which is also preserved nearby. The bridge is on the westbound side of the highway.

    Notodden Municipality

    Notodden municipality is named after the historic town of the same name. The municipality borders the Telemark Canal and the eastern course of the Heddalsvatnet lake. Much of the municipality wasn’t inhabited until the beginning of the 20th century, when Notodden was established as a centre of industry.

    Notodden town is an interesting historic town, but it is not on the Fv37. To get there, shortly after entering the municipality there is a turn off onto a road that’ll lead to Notodden (20km / 12 miles away). Notodden is on the E134 highway.

    Gransherad

    Village

    Gransherad is a small settlement with around 750 people living there. The composer Klaus Egge was born in Gransherad. Gransherad Church is from 1849. Before this church, there was a stave church from the 14th century here.

    From Gransherad, you can follow the Fv361 to the E134, where you can head to Notodden.

    Tinnoset

    Village

    Tinnoset is a small settlement at the point where the Tinnsjå lake and Tinnelva River meet. Historically there was a hydropower plant here. This is where the ferries from Mæl (on the northern end of the lake) would offload their goods onto the train at Tinnoset railway station so they could be transported to Notodden. The railway station is still standing and is now a heritage-listed building. The address is: Tinnoset 31, 3691 Gransherad

    After Tinnoset you will be driving along the Tinnsjå Lake. The Tinnsjå Lake is Norway’s third-deepest lake, with an average depth of 190 metres.

    Gravtjørn Rest Area S/F Hydro Sabotage Site

    Historic Site

    The S/F Hydro was a Norwegian steam-powered railway ferry that delivered raw materials and fertiliser from the factory at Rjukan to the port in Skien. The ship was sunk by members of the Norwegian resistance in 1944, as the Nazi’s were using it to transport heavy water out of Norway. This happened in the lake parallel to where the parking place is, and there is an information sign at the parking place.

    Tinn Municipality

    Tinn municipality is mostly a mountainous municipality with parts of the Hardangervidda plateau included as well as Gaustatoppen, a famous mountain peak. The coat-of-arms represents five droplets of water. The design was chosen to represent the five rivers in the municipality and the importance of hydropower for the development of the town.

    Mæl Station

    Historic Site

    Mæl station was the ferry station on the historic Rjukanbanen railway that used to operate here. The station shut in 1991.

    The Rjukanbanen is the railway line running between Mæl and Rjukan. It was opened in 1909 and closed in 1991. The line was a private railway owned and operated by the Norsk Hydro company. There was a need to transport raw and materials in and out to the coast. The Rjukanbanen was the innermost link in an original four-part transport chain from the factory in Rjukan to the port in Skien. The railway will forever be linked to the introduction of modern industry in Norway, but also Norwegian war history. The battle for heavy water during World War II ended when the Norwegian saboteurs sank the steam ferry DF Hydro at a depth of 430 metres on Tinnsjøen on 20 February 1944.

    Mæl is still a port of call for the Tinnsjø ferries MF “Storegut” and “DF Ammonia”, two ferries which in the summer months are open for charter trips and tours. There is a place to park here as well as information signs about the history of the area.

    A short detour off the highway is a war memorial. Address Rollagvegen 44, 3658 Miland, Norway

    Miland

    Settlement

    Miland is a small village with a population of 291. The area is considered to have some of the nicest plots with views towards the mountain Gaustatoppen. Mæl church is located here and is a wooden church from 1839. It was built to replace an old stave church.

    Baustasteinen på Miland is a memorial stone is from 1914 and is in memory of those who fought for Norway at the initiative of the youth association. It has a quote from Per Sivle: “And if there were those who wanted to ravage the country, there were also those who wanted to defend it”.

    Rjukan

    Rjukan is a fascinating town. Here you will find the Vemork Museum, which is about Rjukan’s development as an industrial city and the role of the hydropower plant during World War II. After all, Vemork was the site of Norway’s most famous sabotage operation. 

    Gaustabanen

    Funicular

    Gaustabanen is a treat. You ride an underground funicular that was built for NATO during the Cold War (the purpose remains a mystery) and come out the other end on Gaustatoppen, a nearly 2000m-high mountain that (on a clear day) has a view over 1/6 of Norway!

    This is not to be missed (unless the weather is bad). But you will need at least 2 hours – preferably 3-4 – to do this ride. 

    Vemork Museum

    Museum

    The museum at Vemork is famous for its presentation of Rjukan’s war history. During World War II, Vemork was the site of the Norwegian heavy water sabotage, where Norwegian saboteurs prevented the Germans from producing nuclear weapons from heavy water, which was produced here. The exhibits in the museum present the four heavy water sabotages and the allied efforts to develop a nuclear bomb.

    During the war, the Nazis took over Norsk Hydro. German scientists discovered that uranium is useful for energy and weapons. Also, heavy water acts as a moderator in a reactor and contributes to the refining of uranium, suitable for atomic bombs. If you aren’t a science person, all that matters is that the Nazis were developing heavy water at Vemork in Norway for their atomic bomb.

    Norwegian resistance members discovered this, and immediately set about sabotaging their operations. They launched several attacks on the facility. The most famous is the sabotage operation in winter 1943. While they were able to damage the facility, production soon continued. However, the Norwegians were able to destroy the boats leaving Rjukan via Mæl and thus halt the Nazi plans to export the heavy water back to Germany.

    The museum is open throughout the year. You can find up-to-date information on their website:

    https://www.nia.no/en/vemork/

    Hardangervidda Nature Centre

    Museum

    The road follows the southernmost side of the Hardangervidda National Park, which is a popular place for hiking. In fact, there’s even a hiking trail where you can follow the route the resistance members took when they damaged the Vemork facility. The Hardangervidda National Park Centre contains maps and useful information if you want to set off on a hike. There’s also a cafe and small museum here.

    Visit their website here: http://www.hardangerviddanasjonalparksenter.no

    Vinje Municipality

    Vinje municipality is a remote municipality with about 1.2 inhabitants per square kilometre. The municipality is located at the northern end of Telemark and extends into the Hardangervidda National Park.

    Rauland Church

    Historic Site

    Rauland Church is a historic church site. In pre-Christian times, the site where the church is today was probably a pagan worshipping site. After the Christianisation of Norway, the site was replaced with a stave church. The stave church stood until 1801, when it was demolished to make way for the present church. Several famous people from Telemark are buried at the church, including Myllarguten (see below).

    Several elements of the old stave church are in the building, such as two cast iron crucifixes from the 12th century, the church bell, collection box, baptismal dish and several candlesticks.

    To get there, follows signs from Krossen. The church is 5.5km from the town on the Fv362 towards Haukeli.

    Åmot

    Village

    Åmot is a small town with a population of 673. The word “Åmot” refers to two rivers meeting and is a common placename in Norway. Åmot is roughly halfway on the E134, so it is a popular stop with truck drivers and therefore also an important traffic hub.

    Nesland Church

    Historic Site

    Nesland Church is a small wooden church from 1847 built in the Empire style. The old Nesland church was a stave church and it’s not sure when the church was built. In the Middle Ages, Nesland Church must’ve been a vigil church, where the congregation gathered every Midsummer night to keep vigil. In the 19th century, the church had become too small for the congregation, so a new church was built. This is common for almost all churches in Norway; in the 19th century a law was passed that a church must fit at least 30% of the congregation. Because of that, most stave churches were too small and therefore torn down.

    Tokke Municipality

    The municipality is located at the end of the Telemark Canal and the administrative centre is the end point for the scenic canal cruise.

    Tokke has long traditions of exporting brynestone all the way back to the Viking Age. The stone is a sharpening stone. The stones from Tokke have been discovered in archaeological digs in many places in Northern Europe, including Iceland, Poland and England. Today the main industries are agriculture and forestry.

    There used to be bears in the area, which is why the coat-of-arms is of a bear. Bears also feature in many local legends and stories from Tokke.

    Dalen

    Dalen is a short detour off the Fv38 but well worth visiting. Dalen is a small town located on the westernmost endpoint of the Telemark Canal. The Telemark Canal goes all the way to Skien on the coast of Norway – originally the canal was used for industry, but today it is more popular with tourists. When the canal was completed, it was referred to as the ‘eighth wonder’. Ferries were able to link Telemark with Oslo through the canal and then Oslofjord.

    Dalen Hotel is a famous historic hotel; it is one of the best preserved hotels from the 1800s. The hotel was built with the opening of the Telemark Canal in 1892. When it opened, it became popular with European royals.During the occupation, it was a resort for German officers. Most of the interior was stripped and sold for parts. The building fell into disrepair.

    After the war, the building was bought by singer and evangelist Aage Samuelsen. The hotel got a lot of attention and was restored in the 1980s. The hotel reopened in 1992. In 2000, the hotel won the Europa Nostra award for outstanding conservation. The architecture is a mix of Swiss chalet with national romanticism and Dragestil, a type of Norwegian architecture inspired by Viking and medieval art.

    Eidsborg Stave Church

    Historic Site/Museum

    Eidsborg Stave Church is one of the 28 remaining stave churches in Norway. Built some time between 1250 and 1300, the church stands out for being one of the smallest stave churches. Additionally, it is an important pilgrimage church that gave way to its own cult in the old times! Eidsborg Stave Church is located on the hill above the village of Dalen, and today is part of the Vest Telemark Museum. A visit to the church also includes a look at the historic farm buildings from the region.

    To get here, continue through Dalen and up the switchback road. Eidsborg Stave Church is 6km out of Dalen and has the address Museumsvegen 9, 3891 Høydalsmo

    Skafså Church

    Historic Site

    Skafså Church is from 1839 and is known for its interior. The church used to have a crucifix, but the crucifix is now in a museum to preserve it. The crucifix shows the crucified Jesus with a king’s crown, i.e. not the usual crown of thorns. In the 1950s the church was restored. At the front of the choir are bridal chairs modelled after an old Renaissance chair from the former stave church, which was probably demolished in 1826 because it had fallen into disrepair.

    Åmsdals Verk

    Village

    Åmdals Verk is a small village that grew up around the mining activities of Åmdals Verk Gruver, or the mines. The history of copper mines in Åmdal goes back to 1540, when King Christian III of Denmark/Norway sent German miners to Telemark to start mining. The first quarrywas called Moisesberg. The ore tunnels were founded in 1689. The copper mines have a complicated history with operations, shutdowns, and problematic owner.s The miners were the heart in an urbanised mountain village where the minter’s everyday life dependned on good ore deposits and political conditions outside Europe.

    The museum building is located in a reconstruction of the old sjeide house.

    The museum is called Åmdals Verk Gruver and has the address Åmdalsvegen 42A, 3882 Åmdals Verk and is located a few minutes out of town off the Fv38. Check the website for up-to-date opening hours: http://www.vtm.no

    Kvitseid Municipality

    Kviteseid is a municipality in the upper part of Telemark. The municipality has existed since the Middle Ages and was an important administrative centre in Telemark. Kviteseid was originally an agricultural community without any real urban development. The most important industries here are still agriculture and forestry, though tourism is on the rise.

    Kviteseid is known for its distinctive cultural traditions, including folk music, arts and crafts, food and architecture. The dialect in Kviteseid is one of the Norwegian dialects that has preserved the most features from Norse and is close to the most conservative form of nynorsk.

    Vrådal Church

    Historic Site

    Vrådal Church is a long church from 1886 that has space for 250 places. The pulpit, altar, baptismal font, brass candlesticks, altar foot and other furniture from the old church are in the current church. The previous church was from 1686 and was demolished when the new church was completed. There was likely a stave church here before then what would’ve been similar to Eidsborg Stave Church. The church from 1686 was likely the first octagonal church in Norway.

    The church is located on the westbound side of the highway with the address Vråliosvegen 461, 3853 Vrådal

    Drangedal Municipality

    Drangedal municipality is largely a forest municipality with the industry centered around land and forestry. The municipality is seeing a declining population. Despite that, Drangedal is a known area for skiing and is home to the largest ski resort in Telemark called Gautefall. Drangedal has a large number of cabins because of the ski opportunities and proximity to larger cities. Drangedal was also one of the first municipalities to get full broadband coverage.

    Prestestranda

    Village

    Prestestranda is the administrative centre and has a population of 1,300 people. The site was developed after the railway station was laid there when the Sørlandsbanen from Bø to Kragerø opened in 1927.

    The Drangedal Bygdetun is an open-air museum with 19 historic buildings, most of which were gifts from the villagers. Drangedal Church is from 1773.

    Kragerø Municipality

    Kragerø municipality is a coastal community named after the town of the same name. In total, there are 495 island, islets and reefs and 4,000 holiday homes here, making Kragerø a popular summer destination for Norwegians. In fact, Kragerø was even referred to as “the peal among coastal towns” by Edvard Munch. More will be covered in the section about Kragerø town.

    Kragerø

    Kragerø is a well-known holiday destination for Norwegians. Located at the end of a peninsula between the Kilsfjorden and Hellefjorden, the town grew as an important harbour from the 16th century onwards. Timber was shipped from the forests Telemark out of Kragerø and onwards to Europe. The town’s business was characterised by timber exports, shipping and shipbuilding from then until the First World War, and at one point Kragerø was one of Norway’s largest shipping towns.

    Continue the drive

    Numedal Valley

    The Numedal Valley will take you from Kongsberg up to the mountains of Western Norway. 

    Previous Drive

    Egersund to Dalen

    This drive goes from the southern cost up to the mountains. 

    This drive is part of the multi-day series “Ultimate Norway”. You can read about the whole drive below. 

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

    Download this guide to have it as a PDF ready to go for your road-trip!

    All downloadable guides come with an interactive Google Map for easier navigation. 

  • Heddal Stave Church

    Heddal Stave Church

    Heddal is one of the most famous stave churches in Norway. After all, it’s the largest! Yepp, Heddal Stave Church is the largest of the 28 remaining in Norway. Moreover, it is one of the most important churches when it came to restoring the other ones in Norway. Heddal was the first church to be described in detail. It is in a written publication called Samlinger til det Norske Folks Sprog og Historie in 1834. The book used Johannes Flintoe’s drawings of the church. It is likely the first architectural drawing of a stave church. Unlike many other stave churches, Heddal has not been affected by fires or natural disasters.

    Heddal Stave Church is open to the public during the summer months. Unfortunately, I was unable to get inside during my visit. Still, there’s something special about seeing the church from the outside. Here’s my overview of the church plus what you can see from the outside.

    In this article...

    The E134 Highway

    You can reach Heddal Stave Church by taking the E134. You can find my guide to the E134 by clicking the link below. 

    History of Heddal Stave Church

    Heddal Stave Church is from some time around the beginning of the 13th century. It’s not known exactly when the church was built. Remains of older building material indicates there was at least one other church on the site. The choir of the current building may have been a nave in an older building.

    Heddal was a settlement with a timber industry, good agricultural land, and a growing community. Today it’s not really a settlement; the main town is now Notodden. Notodden is UNESCO World Heritage-listed along with Rjukan for its 20th century industry. Heddal consists of several farms today. Christianity came to prominence in Telemark in the 11th century. It likely came from Christian monks from the British Isles. They christianised the coast first before moving inland. Since Heddal Stave Church is close to a river, it’s likely that’s how they came to the region. Additionally, crosses and churches went up close to waterways to warn (and promote) Christianity to the community.

    Changes over the years

    Heddal Stave Church is first mentioned in written sources in 1315. After the Reformation in 1536, the church deteriorated. This is when we started losing many of the 1000 stave churches in Norway. The first major renovation took place between 1849 and 1851. The restorers lacked the knowledge another restoration had to be done in the 1950s. This renovation revealed rich wall decorations. Figures and ornaments on the walls were revealed. There had previously been overpainting on the walls.

    Today the interior reflects the period around the Reformation, when Catholicism was out and Lutheran was in.

    Tourists have been coming to the church for the last 200 years. In recent years, the number of visitors has been 15,000-20,000 per year. For the last 35 years, tours have been available inside the church.

    The church in the 1880s (Source)

    Legend of church construction

    Here’s a legend about how the church was built.

    One day, Raud Rygi met a stranger who was willing to build the church. However, the stranger had three conditions for doing the job. One of these conditions had to be done before the church construction finished. Raud had to either fetch the sun and moon from the sky, forfeit his lifeblood, or guess the name of the stranger. Raud thought the last wouldn’t be too hard, so he agreed.

    The building materials had arrived during the first night. The spire was built during the second. It became clear to Raud he wasn’t going to make it: the church was to be finished on day three.

    Fearing for his life, Raud took a walk in the fields to figure out the strangers name. Still wandering around, he arrived at Svintruberget (a rocky hill southeast of the church site). He suddenly heard a stange but beautiful song:

    Tomorrow Finn will bring us the Moon.Where he goes, the sun and christian blood perish.He brings children to song and play.But now my children, sleep safe and sound.

    Raud now knew the stranger was a troll (Trolls drink Christian blood – dead giveaway). The stranger visited Raud the next day to show the completed church. They walked to the church and Raud walked to one of the pillars. He hugged it, as if to straighten it out. Then he said: “Hey Finn, this pillar isn’t straight!” The stranger snapped back “I could be even more bent!” and hastily leaves the church.

    Raud solved the riddle. The stranger’s name was Finn, or Finn Fairhair. He was a troll and could not stand the church bells. Since the church was finished, he heard the, so much he had to move far away.

    Architectural Layout

    Heddal Stave Church is a triple nave stave church and Norway’s largest. It has a length of 20m and a height of 26m.

    Heddal Stave Church has three towers. It has roof surfaces at many angles, and a walkway around the church. Legend has it that the undercover exterior area is where the Vikings kept their shields and swords to protect them from the rain. Is it true? Who knows! But I’ve heard it a few times at stave churches.

    Looking closely at the building, you’ll see it has several different architectural styles. These depict the different eras the church has lived through.

    Restoration Work

    The wood carvings show a remarkable combination of biblical motifs and pre-Christian beliefs. The exterior gallery has woodcarvings around the four entrances. The symbols scare off evil powers while also inviting people into the sanctuary of the church.

    Visiting the church & surrounding area

    There is quite a large carpark close to the church, and it is a short walk to the church. Behind it is the Heddal Open Air Museum, which contains farm buildings from the area. In front of the carpark is a large barn, and this is an indoor museum. It has objects from around the area and is where you buy tickets. There’s also a cafe and shop inside.

    You can walk around the church for free, but it’s hard to get too close to it. You can see in the photos that the exterior gallery is closed in. They have put up wire fencing in the open spaces and closed off the doors.

    A sign is in front of the carpark providing a good overview of the church. The church is absolutely beautiful to look at. There are many stave churches where I think seeing the outside is good enough. But with Heddal, you should go inside. It’s a rare stave church with a preserved interior.

    Practical Information

    Getting Here

    Getting there by car: Heddal Stave Church is about 1.5 hours from Oslo. It’s very close to the UNESCO World Heritage towns of Rjukan and Notodden (click here to read about that).

    Getting there by bus: Amazingly, you can take a singular bus from Oslo Bus Terminal. Take the regional bus to Haugesund and get off at ‘Rygi’. It’s not a major stop, so you need to make it clear to the driver. Heddal Stave Church is 350m from there. Just keep in mind there are only three buses a day. Click here to look for more info.

    Parking: Free

    Admission

    2020 ticket prices are 80 NOK per person. Click here for current prices.

    Opening hours

    The church is open throughout the year. Click here for opening times.

    Guided tours

    Offered and highly recommended. They don’t put information signs next to motifs or highlight key points. You need a guide. The tours typically happen whenever you show up, or when there’s enough people.

    The E134 Highway

    You can reach Heddal Stave Church by taking the E134. You can find my guide to the E134 by clicking the link below. 

  • Industrial Heritage in Rjukan, Telemark

    Industrial Heritage in Rjukan, Telemark

    In this article...

    The Fv37 Highway

    Rjukan is located along the fv37, which is the main highway through Telemark. You can find my guide for the Fv37 by clicking the link below. 

    Pre industrial era

    Before industry came to Rjukan, it wasn’t a town and there were very few people living here. However, Rjukan was a known tourist destination. The area has good terrain for skiing and hiking, and it’s a good starting point for the Hardangervidda Plateau. Moreover, in the 1860s, the Norwegian Mountain Touring Association built their first cabin here, by the waterfall. Additionally, Rjukan is close to Gaustatoppen, one of the highest mountains in the country. It also experienced tourism growth in the 19th century.

    Industrial Growth

    In the early 20th century, Norway experienced rapid industrial development. They worked out how to utilise the cheap hydropower properly. Industrial development began in the East Telemark region. Before then, it was an underdeveloped and sparsely populated agricultural area. The factories built here were to make fertiliser, which could be used to blast the mines.

    Kristian Birkeland (1867-1917)
    Sam Eyde (1866-1940)

    The background for industrial development in Rjukan and the neighbouring town Notodden is thanks to these two guys. The process was used to fix atmospheric nitrogen into nitric acid, one of the several chemical processes generally referred to as nitrogen fixation. The resultant was then used as a source of nitrate. It’s a little above me, so you can read about it here.

    They needed electricity to make this work, so established the hydropower company Norsk Hydro in 1905. They set up an experimental factory in Notodden in 1905. The first nitrate factory in Rjukan was Vemork (Rjukan I), which began operations in 1911. At the time, Vemork was the largest power plant with direct current production.

    Rjukan II Power Plant

    Other industrial plants

    Other plants went up around Rjukan, and they are still visible today. Here’s just two of them:

    • Såheim Power Plant: It is from 1914. Hydro Energi owns the building. An old piece from the power plant is in a park in Rjukan.
    • Mår Power Plant: It’s located just south of Rjukan. It was put into operation in 1948 and collects water from an intake reservoir.

    Moreover, they saw the potential of Rjukan, and decided to take over its natural attractions for the exploitation of hydropower. The Rjukan Falls, which had previously been a tourist attraction, were now exploited for hydropower. Furthermore, the high mountain lake Møsvatn and the watercourse was taken over for industry. Their use as a tourist attraction diminished.

    Building Rjukan

    With these plants coming up in Rjukan, they needed to make a town. Rjukan was built between 1905 and 1916.

    The man with the plan for Rjukan was Sam Eyde. He designed Rjukan from the ground up. This included the street layout, facilities, and architecture. Houses were designed from the ground up for the workers. Even the mailboxes and park benches were specifically designed. In 1925, 80% of the houses were controlled by Norsk Hydro.

    In 1910, the population was 2,200. Moreover, ten years later, it was 8,350. At its peak, 12,000 people lived in Rjukan.

    The sun doesn’t reach Rjukan between September and March. Eyde couldn’t have his workers depressed, so he had the Krossobanen built. Moreover, it takes passengers up to a nearby mountain, where the sun still reaches all year long. Certainly, the Krossobanen opened in 1928 as a gift from Norsk Hydro.

    Transportation of goods

    With people and industry comes a need for transport. Moreover, a very detailed system was designed to transport goods from Rjukan down to the pier at Skien. The Rjukanbanen railway took goods from the plants to the Mael pier. From there, the railway ferry went across the Tinnsjøen Lake to Tinnoset. There the train went 34km to the Notodden pier. Goods were then loaded on barges and taken on the Telemark canal system to Skien. King Haakon VII opened the Rjukanbanen on 10 August 1909. It is no longer in operation, but the pier at Mael has been preserved.

    Development of heavy water & WWII

    Rjukan is most known today for its connection to the development of heavy water at its Vemork plant. I won’t go into too much detail about what happened here during the war; that’s for a separate article once I visit the Industrial Workers Museum.

    As we know, between 1907 and 1911 Norsk Hydro built the plant at Vemork. In 1934, they built an adjacent hydrogen plant. Certainly, a by-product of hydrogen projection via water electrolysis is heavy water.

    The Nobel Prize winner Odd Hassel told Norsk Hydro they were producing heavy water; they didn’t know before then!

    What is Heavy Water?

    Heavy water is a form of water that contains only deuterium (heavy hydrogen), rather than common hydrogen. Moreover, the presence of the heavier hydrogen isotope gives the water different nuclear properties. Water has two hydrogen atoms and one oxygen atom. Heavy water has deuterium instead of hydrogen. Furthermore, regular hydrogen has one proton in its nucleus, while heavy water has one proton and one neutron. The increase of mass gives it physical and chemical properties when compared to normal water. It looks like water, but is 10% heavier.

    One purpose of heavy water is using it in nuclear reactors. Heavy water slows the neutrons so they can react with uranium in the reactor. One use of heavy water is developing nuclear weapons.

    Vemork hidden in the trees

    World War II

    This is where we get into World War II. During the war, the Germans took over Norsk Hydro. German scientists discovered that uranium is useful for energy and weapons. Also, heavy water acts as a moderator in a reactor and contributes to the refining of uranium, suitable for atomic bombs. If you aren’t a science person, all that matters is that the Germans were developing heavy water at Vemork in Norway for their atomic bomb.

    Norwegian resistance members discovered this, and immediately set about sabotaging their operations. They launched several attacks on the facility. The most famous is the sabotage operation in winter 1943. While they were able to damage the facility, production soon continued. However, the Norwegians were able to destroy the boats leaving Rjukan via Mael and thus halt the Germans plans to export the heavy water back to Germany. The ship that carried the heavy water is under the lake near Mael.

    The heavy water facility was blown up in 1977. In 2017, the secret cellar used by the Germans was discovered. It is currently being preserved so visitors can see the remains.

    Outside the museum Vemork

    Today Vemork power station is the Norwegian Industrial Workers’ Museum. The history of Rjukan and the industrial worker is told, in addition to the history of war and sabotage associated with the place.

    Post-war industrial shift

    Production continued after the Second World War. In 1955, Norsk Hydro was a powerhouse (in all senses of the word!) with 18% of the global export market for fertiliser products.

    After 1960, most of the production in Rjukan was moved out of town to more modern factories in Porsgrunn. Moreover, Rjukan lost its status as major industrial town. However some industry is still present here, but on a much smaller scale.

    Ammonia production ended in Notodden in 1968 and in Rjukan in 1989. Furthermore, they replaced Vemork with a new facility behind the mountains in 1971. Today the power plants serve as heritage sites and museums.

    UNESCO World Heritage Site

    After the turn of the century, Rjukan began to refocus its prime source of income. It found that tourism could be a huge industry here. After all, it was in the 19th century. With that the town decided to push for UNESCO World Heritage status for its industrial plants.

    The application was for Rjukan and Notodden. Above all, they represent the second industrial revolution consisting of industry, hydropower, transport and factory cities. The cities went on the UNESCO list on 5 July 2015. This is exactly 108 years and 1 day after Sam Eyde’s plans began for Rjukan.

    Here’s the reason UNESCO added it:

    Located in a dramatic landscape of mountains, waterfalls and river valleys, the site comprises hydroelectric power plants, transmission lines, factories, transport systems and towns. The complex was established by the Norsk-Hydro Company to manufacture artificial fertiliser from nitrogen in the air. It was built to meet the Western world’s growing demand for agricultural production in the early 20th century. The company towns of Rjukan and Notodden show workers’ accommodation and social institutions linked by rail and ferry to ports where the fertilizer was loaded. The Rjukan-Notodden site manifests an exceptional combination of industrial assets and themes associated to the natural landscape. It stands out as an example of a new global industry in the early 20th century.

    UNESCO World Heritage

    Hiking trails around the Vemork plant

    Rjukan Today

    Today 3,100 people live in Rjukan. It is primarily a tourist destination. The surrounding mountains are great for skiers. Moreover, access to Hardangervidda national park is perfect for adventure seekers and hikers. Furthermore, there are numerous museums and visitor centres about the towns heritage.

    It’s not all industry in Rjukan. The town is famous for its sun mirrors. Between September and March, Rjukan sits in the shadows. The mountain (thanks, Gaustatoppen) blocks the sun. In 2013, at the cost of 5 million NOK, large mirrors were put on the mountain. They reflect sun onto the town square. Every 12 March is Solfesten, a festival to celebrate the return of the sun.

    Visiting Rjukan

    By Car: Rjukan is a 2.5 hour drive from Oslo. You can take a short detour via the famous Heddal Stave Church. Rjukan is 1.5 hours from Dalen, 2 hours from Skien, and 5.5 hours from Bergen.

    Public Transport: There are no direct public transport routes to Rjukan; you have to take multiple buses. This includes from all nearby cities.

    How Long to Stay: I would recommend spending at least one night in Rjukan. This will give you time to do Gaustabanen and the Vemork Museum, though they can both be easily spread over 2 days. If you are interested in World War II or hiking, you can do the same trail the resistance workers took when they had their famous sabotage operation. It is a middle-grade hike and will take you past some heritage sites. Click here to learn more. Another hike will take you along the pipes for the Vemork station (click here).

    Note: Vemork Museum is not an easy walk from Rjukan town centre. Having a car is highly recommended.

    The Fv37 Highway

    Rjukan is located along the fv37, which is the main highway through Telemark. You can find my guide for the Fv37 by clicking the link below. 

  • Riding Gaustabanen, a NATO Underground Funicular

    Riding Gaustabanen, a NATO Underground Funicular

    There are many funiculars and cable-car variants across Northern Europe, but I’d say there are none as unique as Gaustabanen. After all, how often do you get to ride in a military funicular underneath one of Norway’s highest mountains, only to emerge on the other side and see 1/6 of the country? Yeah, exactly. That’s what Gaustabanen is!

    In September 2020 I got the chance to ride the cable car. While the weather was good at the lower station, a singular cloud hovered over the top station and we didn’t get to see anything. As much as that is a shame, it’s a reality when trying to experience the outdoors in Norway. The weather is not always perfect.

    Still, I thought I’d write about the funicular itself. I did get to experience that. If you’re planning to take Gaustabanen, I hope this guide helps with your planning.

    In this article...

    The Fv37 Highway

    The Gaustabanen is located along the Fv37, which is the main highway through Telemark. You can find my guide for the Fv37 by clicking the link below. 

    This article will cover the history and the practicalities of the funicular. I won’t talk so much about the view, what you can do at the top, or the hiking path. I only cover what I’ve done.

    The history is important because part of the thrill of the funicular has to do with its NATO history.

    History of Gaustabanen

    Early days of mountain exploration

    Long before there was a funicular there, the mountain Gaustatoppen has been drawing visitors from all over the world. For Norwegians, it has been a popular hiking destination for over 200 years. The cabin at the top (Gausta Turisthytte) was built in 1893 to welcome brave hikers and skiers who made it to the top.

    A mountain this high and this snowy is sure to draw skiers, and Gaustatoppen is no exception. Alpine sports began on the mountain in the 1930s, and in 1934 the first race took place. One year later, the first downhill run was finished; it was a 5km (3 mi) long course with a drop of 900m. More on that later.

    There were further plans to develop the area as a ski resort, but World War II put a stop to that.

    Click here to explore World War II articles

    Post-war tourism plans

    After the war, Gaustatoppen continued to thrive as a ski destination. This talk began surrounding making some kind of rail to make it easier to get to the top of the mountain. The local press in Rjukan began to write about it. They were saying it would also be important for television, air traffic, weather forecast, and tourists.

    In autumn 1953, the regional airline Widerøe conducted a survey of the mountain. The Armed Forces stated their interests in the rail, and it was decided to split the costs between the Army and the tourism group. In 1954, the Army hired Norsk Hydro (an electric company) as the contractor. In February, work began to build the funicular.

    NATO takes over

    Shortly after construction began, NATO became interested in the project. Eventually they took over the project, and any hopes of having the funicular for tourism diminished. Still, it wasn’t too bad for the locals. It’s believed that a large portion of the population in Rjukan either worked or knew someone who worked at the facility. NATO secured all the funding they needed for the funicular, and it is likely that the project wouldn’t have been finished if not for them.

    Construction hiccups

    The construction was hindered by permafrost. When working, the construction workers had to deal with several thousand years old ice. The tunnel they were constructing acted as a huge chimney for hot air, and this caused the ice to melt. There was a risk of landslide. They were able to keep working by making reinforcement work from the top to the bottom of the mountain. Furthermore, safety walls went up with the help of the US Army helicopters. The project was funded with American military grants, and it cost around $1 million USD.

    The Gaustabanen opened in 1959 as a NATO facility. There were plans to recoup some of the costs with tourism, but as the Cold War intensified it remained a military secret instead. It lasted as that until the collapse of the Soviet Union and eastern Bloc in the 1990s.

    What went on?

    The iconic peak played an important part in telecommunications in Norway. Due to its location in the far north and common border with the Soviet Union, Norway’s important role in the NATO defence was to be a warning and intelligence base. Gaustabanen and the facility required a secure connection.

    Little information is available as to what went on in the facility. The Soviets were also curious about what was going on, and cars with Soviet embassy signs and long antennas were observed in the area.

    Moreover, the few civilians who took the rail in the 1960s, 70s and 80s had to be cleared in advance.

    Conversion to tourism

    Use of the facility ended in the 1990s, and after that there was interest in converting it into a tourism facility. After a heavy renovation, Gaustabanen opened to tourists in 2010, only 60 years after the original tourism plans!
    Gaustatoppen is still important for communication. It also functions as a broadcasting and weather station.

    Gaustabanen and the mountain are hugely popular for hikers and skiers, as well as general tourists. Around 100,000 people visit the tourist cabin every year.

    Ski competitions take place on the mountain. One is the Norseman Triathlon, billed as the ‘world’s most brutal iron-distance triathlon’. It starts in Eidfjord and finished at the top of Gaustatoppen.

    The Gausta Ski Centre has 45km of slopes and 550m in height difference.

    How it works

    The horizontal funicular

    The entrance to Gaustabanen is 1125m above sea level, and the exit is 675m further up.

    The first stage of your journey is a horizontal tram that takes you 850m straight into the mountain.

    The second stage involves changing to the funicular part; you have to leave the tram and walk to the funicular. The vertical funicular takes you on a 1040m path with a rise of a staggering 39 degrees.

    The only part of the NATO facility you see

    When you get out of the carriage at the top, you have to walk through a 110m long tunnel to get out. That is the only part of the NATO facility you’ll see. The other rooms are still hidden from the public.

    Perhaps the tunnel system looks familiar? Well, maybe if you’re into hydropower. The layout of the tunnels is directly inspired from hydroelectric power generation water-duct tunnels.

    This is where the view would be

    If the weather is amazingly clear, you’ll get to see the best view in the whole of Norway as you’re 1,882.9m high. You can see 60,000km2, which is around 1/6 of Norway’s mainland. By comparison, the whole of Denmark is 43,000m2.

    The path up to the tourist cabin and summit

    From the top station, it’s possible to walk to the tourist cabin. Walk a little further and you reach the actual summit. Please note that the ground is made up of loose rocks, and there’s a high chance they’ll be slippery.

    Should you get perfect weather, you can see the entire Hardangervidda Plateau to the north-west and the sea to the south.

    Again, I was unlucky and didn’t get to see anything from the top. There was this one cloud just hanging out on the top station. However, I could see the radio tower from the carpark. You can also see this pesky cloud in the photo.

    The top station is home to one of the highest toilets in Norway. Yes, you read that right! However, they cost money to use.

    What you see from the top

    If the weather is amazingly clear, you’ll get to see the best view in the whole of Norway as you’re 1,882.9m high. You can see 60,000km2, which is around 1/6 of Norway’s mainland. By comparison, the whole of Denmark is 43,000m2.

    The path up to the tourist cabin and summit

    From the top station, it’s possible to walk to the tourist cabin. Walk a little further and you reach the actual summit. Please note that the ground is made up of loose rocks, and there’s a high chance they’ll be slippery.

    Should you get perfect weather, you can see the entire Hardangervidda Plateau to the north-west and the sea to the south.

    Again, I was unlucky and didn’t get to see anything from the top. There was this one cloud just hanging out on the top station. However, I could see the radio tower from the carpark. You can also see this pesky cloud in the photo.

    The top station is home to one of the highest toilets in Norway. Yes, you read that right! However, they cost money to use.

    Is it worth it?

    Honestly, I don’t know. The ticket price is steep at 370 NOK for an adult return. When we paid the ticket, the sky was clear. By the time we reached the top, there was a cloud.

    Additionally, you need to allocate a lot of time for the trip. The tram leaves every 15 minutes, and the total journey takes 15-25 mins to reach the top. Then you have to go through that whole process again. We’d allocated 1.5 hours to the whole trip, and barely spent any time at the top because of that.

    Still, I think if you allocate enough time to do a walk or hike at the top, get a bite to eat at the tourist cabin, and enjoy the trip, it’s well worth it. The funicular is an incredibly unique experience and we really enjoyed that. If you get good weather, I’d say it’s worth it.

    Practical Information

    Getting there

    Gaustabanen is located on the County Road 651 about 10 minutes up-hill from Rjukan in Telemark. It’s marked as ‘Gaustabanen’ on Google Maps.

    Food & Drink

    The lower station has a coffee machine and some light snacks. There are places to sit outside. The upper station doesn’t have anything; you have to walk uphill to the tourist cabin to find food.

    Toilets

    Free toilets at the bottom visitors centre. The toilets cost money on the top station.

    Admission

    As of writing, an adult return ticket costs 390 NOK. Click here for up-to-date prices.

    Temperature

    The annual average temperature is -4.3C below zero. It will be very cold and likely windy at the top. Dress for winter weather!

    Departures

    The funicular departs every 15 mins and can only take 18 people per trip. Be sure to get there early to avoid crowds, especially in summer. The lower visitors centre is not large and you can’t sit inside, so you’ll be queuing outside.

    Souvenirs

    Available at the lower station.

    Hikes

    It is possible to hike from the carpark to the top station. It is regarded as a difficult hike by Norwegian standards. The hike is only 4.6km (a little under 3 miles), but it’s on a very rocky path. Click here for info on the hike (in Norwegian).

    The Fv37 Highway

    The Gaustabanen is located along the Fv37, which is the main highway through Telemark. You can find my guide for the Fv37 by clicking the link below. 

  • Eidsborg Stave Church & West Telemark Museum

    Eidsborg Stave Church & West Telemark Museum

    Eidsborg Stave Church is one of the 28 remaining stave churches in Norway. Built some time between 1250 and 1300, the church stands out for being one of the smallest stave churches. Additionally, it is an important pilgrimage church that gave way to its own cult in the old times! Eidsborg Stave Church is located on the hill above the village of Dalen, and today is part of the Vest Telemark Museum. A visit to the church also includes a look at the historic farm buildings from the region. Here’s my overview of the history and importance of Eidsborg Stave Church.

    In this article...

    The Fv38 Highway

    Eidsborg Stave Church is located along the Fv38, which is the main highway through Telemark. You can find my guide for the Fv38 by clicking the link below. 

    Historic Overview

    Eidsborg Stave Church in 1929

    The timber on Eidsborg Stave Church dates the church some time between 1250 and 1300, though the exact date is unknown. The first written mention of the church is from 1354, but it’s definitely older than that. There’s indication that another church stood on the site before then.

    There are many legends associated with this church. The church is said to have been built by the underjordiske. They are spirit beings who live underground or in nature as invisible creatures next to humans, often near farms.

    Like all the 28 stave churches in Norway, Eidsborg has underwent some changes over the years. The chorus was demolished in 1826 and the choir is from 1845-1850. Unlike some other stave churches, Eidsborg lacks foundation stones. Only the nave is original. Also, unlike other stave churches, Eidsborg is built with vertical logs instead of horizontal ones.
    The next renovation was in 1927, when architects made efforts to make the church look more like its 17th century appearance. The last restoration took place between 2005-2008.

    Eidsborg is one of the smallest stave churches in the country. The inside area is approximately 30m2.

    St. Nicholas

    Eidsborg Stave Church is dedicated to St. Nicholas. There is a statue of him inside the church that is from when the church was built. Sadly today the one inside the church is a copy, while the original is now in the Folke Museum (open-air museum) in Oslo.

    This statue developed something of a cult in the old times. We know St. Nicholas as the generous saint and origin of Santa Clause. Well, the original Nicholas was the bishop of Myra and served in the 300s. In the 5th century, the worship of saints began with him. Eventually, more than 2,000 churches in Europe were dedicated to him. One of them was Eidsborg. Eidsborg was likely dedicated to St. Nicholas as he was also the stonemasons patron saint. The village Eidgsborg had sharpening stone (whetstone) production.

    The wooden figure became a cult icon. Every Midsummer Eve (St. Hans Eve), locals gave the wooden figure gifts. After this, the locals would say prays to the church. They then carried out to a water source, where they washed it. Sweat from the wooden sculpture was supposed to have healing power and cleanse sins. This was very unique that a Catholic symbol would have pagan ritual traditions. It is also found at Røldal Stave Church. This tradition took place until 1750.

    The Antiquities Collection took the statue in 1845, and in 1965 Eidsborg got a copy. The ritual is now a historical play that takes place once a year.

    Pilgrims Road

    Eidsborg Stave Church is one of the very few churches in Norway on a pilgrims road. The other other pilgrims stave church is Røldal. Eidsborg is actually located on the pilgrims road to Røldal.

    Vest Telemark Museum

    Eidsborg Stave Church is located as part of the Vest Telemark Museum. If you visit Eidsborg, you must take some time to see the other buildings on the farm. I was able to see this buildings for free while the museum was closed. You can’t, of course, go inside without paying the admission fee. Still, it’s a nice area to walk around in. Here’s what you can see.

    Stålekleivsloftet

    This is the oldest non-church wooden building in the Norway and one of the oldest in the world. It’s unsure exactly when this building came to be, but there have bmanyrous studies into this. The construction technique is finndalslaft, and this is not found in Norway after the Black Death in 1349. Furthermore, there is a rune inscription in the attic dated to 1300. Lastly, in recent years the timber has been studied. It is likely that the timber was felled around the year 1167.

    This building is the first of its kind in Eidsborg. It was for a woman called Åse Stålekleiv, who is something of a local legend here. Basically, in 1200 she was an extremely wealthy landowner in Eidsborg. She needed a building to store her linen, so her sons built her this one!

    You can read all about her on the West Telemark Museum website.

    Practical Information

    Getting there

    Eidsborg is a short but steep and windy drive from Dalen, famous for the Telemark Canal. It’s clearly marked on maps, street signs, and Google Maps.

    Opening hours

    You can see some the buildings and the stave church all year round, but the museum has specific opening hours. Check the current opening times here.

    Admission

    You can see the outside of the church and some of the buildings for free, but to go inside you need to pay an admission. Check the current prices here.

    The Fv38 Highway

    Eidsborg Stave Church is located along the Fv38, which is the main highway through Telemark. You can find my guide for the Fv38 by clicking the link below.