Southern Norway

  • Dalen, Egersund, Jæren, Road-trips, Scenic Drives, Southern Norway

    Drive it Yourself: Egersund to Dalen

    Drive it Yourself: Egersund to Dalen

    Looking for an alternative road to the mountains, bypassing the tourists, highways and seeing the secret beauty of Norway? This drive is perfect. I know, the Egersund to Dalen drive is not the most commonly suggested route in Norway, but it is worth the consideration. Both towns are very cute and scenic with plenty to do, and they are separated by a beautiful valley and mountain range that you’ll pass.
    On this page, you’ll find practical info outlining what you’ll see between the two towns, plus where you can stay and what you can do. Be sure to watch my own drive, where I’ve put together a timelapse with information. 
    If you have done this drive, or have any questions for me, let me know in the comments. 

    In this article...

    View Our 'Ultimate Norway' Road-trip

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    Visit Our YouTube Channel

    The drive: Egersund to Dalen

    Egersund

    Egersund is a charming small town on the south coast of Norway. It has lots of wonderful shops and cafes, making it a perfect place to stop on your road-trip. 

    Egersund Travel Guide

    Trollpiken

    Rock Formation

    Trollpikken is a unique and strange rock formation in Norway. In the last few years, it has gained popularity due to its, well, shape. ‘Pikk’ is a relatively new word in Norway that translates to ‘dick’, and as you can see in the image, the name describes what locals have come to recognise the formation as.
    Trollpikken made the news in 2017, when it was vandalised and severed off using power tools. The locals were saddened by this and a crowdfunding campaign raised an incredible 226,000 NOK and within two weeks the rock was reattached (watch the video on the left!). One person was arrested for vandalism.
    Since this incident, there was more effort made in promoting Trollpikken. It’s got its own website now (click here), which goes over the history, folklore, and practical info of the site. There are road signs leading to the large carpark, and the walk to the monument is well marked with modern signs. The name is also recent; it’s only from 2017.
    For those interested in geology, the rock is anorthosite. This is a very rare type of rock that’s found on the south-western coast of Norway and the moon. Yes, the moon! When astronauts were training for going to the moon, they came here to practice collecting rock samples. Trollpikken is 12m (39ft) high.
    It is relatively easy to hike to Trollpikken, and the info can be found here: https://ut.no/turforslag/1113153/trollpikken

    Helleland

    Village

    Helleland is a small village just outside Egersund. The language used here is nynorsk rather than the commonly used bokmål. The Sørlandet train connection between Oslo and Stavanger runs through (and stops at) Helleland.
    Helleland Church is from 1832. It is built in wood and has seats for 500. The architect was Hans Linstow, who also designed the Royal Palace and Karl Johans gate in Oslo.
    In Helleland, there are memorials dedicated to the British aircraft which crashed during the occupation of Norway by Nazi Germany in connection with the Operation Freshman sabotage attempt, part of an action that was aimed at the Vemork hydroelectric plant, site of heavy water production. Furthermore, there is a cave in the forest which was used as a hiding place during World War II. People who had kept illegal radio equipment hid in this cave, and the Germans never discovered them.
    You’ll find a grocery store in Helleland (Coop). 

     

    Terland Klopp

    Bridge

    Terland Klopp was built around 1800 as a stone slab bridge. With 21 runs and 60 metres, it is considered the largest in the Nordic region of this type. The bridge crosses the river Gyaåna, which we are following on this road. The valley we are in is called the Gyadalen Valley.
    Terland Klopp has not been in use since 1977; today it is a listed monument. It is considered the best-preserved bridge of this kind. 

    Agder County

    We now cross over into Agder kommune. Originally, Agder was a medieval petty kingdom that governed itself until Norway was unified into one Kingdom. The name Agder was not used between 1662 and 1919; it was reinstated after the counties Aust-Agder (East Adger) and Vest-Adger (West Adger) were established. Since 2020, those two counties were merged into one: Adger. 

    Sirdal Municipality

    Tonstad

    Village

    Welcome to Tonstad! The name means “Tone’s Farm” and is a typical small town name; towns were often built around farmsteads where the church was located. The church here is Tonstad Church and it’s from 1852. It seats 300.
    The town has a large hydroelectric power station and a large ski centre. In fact, Tonstad has one of Norway’s most modern biathlon facilities, and it is known for producing many highly regarded biathletes. The local high school uses the facility for training.
    Tonstad is located on the northern end of the Sirdal Lake. In July, the boat ‘Snorre’ does tours of the lake every Wednesday. A guide on board tells you the stories and local legends, as well as some tales of Vikings from the Norse Sagas. 
     At Tonstad you’ll find road signs leading to Kjerag, a famous natural monument and hiking trail.

    Dorgefossen

    Waterfall

    Dorgefossen is a regulated waterfall, though it is more like a gorge. Due to the water regulations, the waterfall is much smaller than it used to be.
    An old legend from Sirdal tells that death row inmates got one last chance to save their lives by jumping over Dorgefoss. If they managed to do so, they would be free. If they did not succeed, the fall of the waterfall and the rapids fulfilled the death sentence.
    It is possible to swim in the river, but without warning water can be released from the pond, making the water colder than normal.
    By the road, there is a picnic area with restrooms and information boards. The road we drive over goes over the waterfall via the Dorge Bridge. The bridge is from 1919.

    Sinnes

    Village

    Sinnes is a small village located in the upper part of the Sirdal valley. There are two ski centres here: Ålsheia and Tjørhomfjellet. Together, they make the largest alpine facility in southwestern Norway.
    Several alpine and cross-country competitions are held in the area. The largest one is Sesilåmi, which is a 52km long ski run.
    Sinnes is a popular cabin area for people from Stavanger, Sandnes and Jaeren.

    Setesdalsheiene

    Mountains

    The mountains to the north are called Setesdalsheiene. Just north of them is the Hardangervidda plateau, while the Ryfylke mountains lie to the west. The highest point is 1,300m (4,300ft). Wild reindeer herds live here.

    Håhellervatn

    Lake

    The lake on our right is Håhellervatn. The total walking distance around the lake is 6km (4 mi).  
    On the east side is a cave called Håhelleren. It has a lot of stories associated with it. After the Napoleonic Wars, two families moved to the area. They first settled in a fisherman’s hut, and then built a home. Their main job was to keep the road clear and shelter road users in bad weather. They were unable to grow grain on the site, but they did try to grow potatoes, though without luck. After living here for 26 years, they realised it was not such a great place to live and they moved to Sirdal. After their house was torn down, road users used the cave for shelter if need be. Today there is a tourist cabin on the sight, and up to 16 adults can take accommodation in the cave.

    Valle Municipality

    Valle
    town

    Valle is the first major town we’ll pass after crossing the mountains, making it a good place to stop.  We have now entered the traditional district of Setesdal; it’s a valley (dal) that up until recently was very isolated. The name Valle comes from the farm where the church was built. There used to be a stave church on the site called Hylestad stave church; sadly it was torn down in the 19th century to make way for a new church. Fortunately, the portal carvings were saved and are on display at the Historic Museum in Oslo. They illustrate the legend of Sigurd Favnesbane (Sigurd the Dragon Slayer), who is described in the Prose Edda and Beowulf saga. An important historic site is Rygnestadtunet, an old farm. It was built by Vonde-Åsmund (Asmund the Evil) in the mid-1500s and has been well-preserved. Today it is an open air museum, where the interiors reflect the period around 1919. Around the farm, grave findings indicate that the site was settled as early as 900AD.  As mentioned above, Valle was incredibly isolated. To get out via the north, travellers had to follow the river and take a path on a torturous steep cliff face. This was the only way out until the 1870s. Today, the European Highway 9 (E9) crosses through the valley and under the torturous mountain thanks to a nice tunnel.  Valle is known for its ancient silver smitheries. Today, the local high school specialises in silversmith and goldsmith training. Students from all over Norway and abroad come here to train to become jewellers.

    Sylvartun Museum

    Museum

    Sylvartun was the central silversmith and folk music arena in Setesdal valley. Exhibitions in the museum focus on musical instruments and the visualisation of music and dance traditions in the valley.
    Visitor information can be found here. 

    Store Bjørnevatn

    Lake

    We pass a large lake called Store Bjørnevatn. It’s about 15km (9 mi) north of Valle. The elevation is 801m (2,628 ft) above sea level. 

    Skafså

    Town

    Skafså is a small town known for its mountain farm Grimdalen. Today it’s a museum with farm buildings from the time of barter economy in the 17th century.
    Famous sculptor Anne Grimdalen is from here, and there’s a gallery with 300 of her sculptures here.
    Skafså Church is from 1839. There used to be a medieval crucifix standing outside the church; this is now at the Vest-Telemark Museum.

    Dalen

    This drive ends in Dalen, a small town located on the westernmost endpoint of the Telemark Canal. The Telemark Canal goes all the way to Skien on the coast of Norway – originally the canal was used for industry, but today it is more popular with tourists.
    When the canal was completed, it was referred to as the ‘eighth wonder’. Ferries were able to link Telemark with Oslo through the canal and then Oslofjord.
    Dalen Hotel is a famous historic hotel; it is one of the best preserved hotels from the 1800s. The hotel was built with the opening of the Telemark Canal in 1892. When it opened, it became popular with European royals.
    During the occupation, it was a resort for German officers. Most of the interior was stripped and sold for parts. The building fell into disrepair.
    After the war, the building was bought by singer and evangelist Aage Samuelsen. The hotel got a lot of attention and was restored in the 1980s. The hotel reopened in 1992. In 2000, the hotel won the Europa Nostra award for outstanding conservation.
    The architecture is a mix of Swiss chalet with national romanticism and Dragestil, a type of Norwegian architecture inspired by Viking and medieval art.
    A night at the hotel starts at 3,000 NOK, with rooms going up to 8,300 NOK.

    Dalen Travel Guide

    Continue the drive

    Telemark

    Take the scenic drive through Telemark from Dalen to Kongsberg.

    Telemark Scenic Drive

    Previous Drive

    Jaeren Tourist Road

    Travel down the southern coast on this scenic, beachy road. 

    Jaeren Tourist Road

    This drive is part of the multi-day series “Ultimate Norway”. You can read about the whole drive below. 

    View Our 'Ultimate Norway' Road-trip

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Jæren, National Tourist Roads, Road-trips, Southern Norway

    Jæren Tourist Road

    Drive it Yourself: Jæren Tourist Road

    Jæren is a traditional district in Rogaland county, south of Stavanger. The landscape characterises the area; Jæren is the largest flat lowland area in Norway. Unlike most of Norway, the coast here is flat with no islands and very sandy beaches. The word ‘Jæren’ (almost pronounced like Yeah-en if you make ‘Yeah’ very nasally) is from the Old Norse Jaðarr, which means ‘edge’ or ‘brim’. It’s a common word found in Norway; around 30 farms have this name. It refers to the coastline. Until the 20th century, Jæren was spelled ‘Jaederen’, which is Danish. You can still see this word in some places.

    This drive is part of our ultimate Norwegian road-trip. Click the button below to view the whole drive. 

    In this article...

    Download this Guide

    All of our guides can be downloaded via our online store. 

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

    View at the Store

    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Information about facilities along the way

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the region & towns
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Facilities including supermarkets, toilets, petrol, hotels, cafes, restaurants with addresses.

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    The Drive: Jæren Tourist Road

    Sola Strand Hotel

    Hotel

    Sola Strand Hotel is located just outside Stavanger city centre, close to the airport and Sola Beach. Alternatively, you could start at Sola Ruin Church or Domsteinane, mentioned below. If you are staying in Stavanger, I recommend stopping by ‘Swords in the Rock’ before you leave. The video above begins at Sola Strand Hotel and stops at Domsteinane first. 

    The Sola Strand Hotel is a great hotel to stay at – it’s right on the beach, has all the facilities of a resort, and is the starting point of this drive!

    Domsteinane

    Historic Site

    Domsteinane is a unique place in Norway. It’s often nicknamed ‘Norway’s Stonehenge’ because of the unknown status of why the rocks are laid out this way.

    Read my separate guide to Domsteinane below. 

    Domsteinane

    Detour: Ølberg Camp

    WWII Site

    Ølberg Camp (Ølberg Leir) is a disused military camp primarily for the storage of ammunition. The camp was established by occupying German forces in 1940 in connection with their military activity at Sola. Sola Airport was a civilian airport, but under German occupation it had important military use. For security reasons, they placed the aircraft ammunition at a separate camp away from the airport. This is the Ølberg Camp.  The camp consists of ammunition houses, bomb shelters, and storage sheds. The ammunition houses are simple timber buildings. The bomb shelters are between these structures. Nearly half the buildings are still standing. Moreover, the original road structure is also im place.  After the war ended in 1945, the Norwegian Armed Forces took over the camp. They further used and developed the camp until 2003, when it closed. In 2007, it was sold to the Sola Municipality. The National Heritage Board is preserving 23 buildings and the surrounding pine forest, the only forested area in Jaeren.

    Note – it is not visible from the road. 

    You can view images by clicking here and here. 

    Vigdel Fortress

    WWII Site

    Vigdel Fort is a coastal fort that was actively in use until 2007. The fort is leftover from the German occupation. It was one of the Germans’ methods of protecting Sola Airport from attacks from the sea.  There was one such attack that influenced their decision to fortify the coast. On the 17th of April 1940, the British attempted to fire at Sola Airport from the sea. After several hours of intense gunfire, the British cruiser HMS Suffolk and several cruisers were forced to retreat. The German bombers had been no match for them. The British had conducted the attack in an attempt to recapture Trondheim from the Germans and stall the Germans’ advancement in Norway. After the battle, the English scrapped plans for a similar attack on Trondheim.  Vigdel Fort was built to prevent an attack like this from happening again. Most important to them was their air force, and it was one of the key strategies for the occupation. The fort was to protect the airforce at Sola Airport. However, the English never returned to attack Sola Airport by ship. Moreover, the fort was never really used. It was too far from the airport to be of any use during air raids. After the war, the Norwegian Army used Vigdel Fort as a training facility. Since it has fallen out of use, the site has been transformed into a popular hiking area.

    Images can be seen here.

    Hellestø Beach

    Beach

    Hellestø Beach is a beautiful place to go for a walk. It’s a sandy beach surrounded by rocky hills. The parking place is free, and it’s a short walk to get to the beach. There are no facilities here.

    TS Museum

    Museum

    The TS Museum in Stenebyen (Tjelta) has a unique collection of old tractors, cars, mortorbikes and trucks. In total, there are over 180 vehicles. All of them are still operating. 

    Visitor information can be found at their website (click here). 

    Bore Church

    Historic Church

    The earliest mention of Bore Church is in 1322, but the church was not new at that time. It’s likely that Bore Church was built as a stave church around the end of the 12th century. Only the baptismal font is preserved from the original church. The stave church was torn down in 1640 to make way for a more modern church. In 1895, the church and cemetery was rebuilt 1.5km (0.9 miles) to the northeast. After this church was finished, the old church was torn down.

    Bore Beach

    Beach

    Bore Beach is located just north of Orre Beach, the longest beach in Norway. Bore is a great beach for swimmers and surfers; when we visited, we got to see a surf school heading out!

    In the carpark you’ll find toilets and showers.

    Orre Beach

    Beach

    At 5km (3 miles), Orre Beach is the longest beach in Norway. With its white sand and good swimming or surfing conditions, it will make you think you are in a warm country. However, once you get in the water, you’ll be reminded that you are actually in Norway.

    Orre Beach is often mentioned among the best beaches in the world when it comes to its efforts to maintain a clean and preserved environment.

    Close to the beach is the Friluftshuset. This building has an information centre about outdoor life and nature conservation. There is also a cultural centre with concerts and art exhibitions. A cafe serves food and drink, and there are restrooms here. It’s open daily in summer and on weekends the rest of the year, between 11am and 4pm. 

    Orre Old Church

    Historic Church

    Orre Old Church is the oldest building in the area. You can read my guide to Orre Old Church below. 

    Orre Old Church

    Hå Gamle Prestgård

    Historic Site

    We didn’t stop here on our drive because the facility was closed, but you certainly can visit on your own drive. 

    Hå Gamle Prestgård is a contemporary art gallery and local cultural history museum located inside an old vicarage. Rotating exhibitions highlight Norwegian and international contemporary artists. There is a permanent archaeological exhibition with ancient objects from the area.

    The vicarage is from 1637 or earlier, and the oldest building is from 1787. The facility has undergone many renovations and has been listed for protection since 1920.

    There are two outbuildings with showrooms. In the main house is the café. If you walk around the site, you’ll see remains of settlements from the Stone Age (8200 years old) and old burial grounds from the migration period.

    Obrestad Lighthouse

    Lighthouse

    Orre Old Church is the oldest building in the area. You can read my guide to Orre Old Church below. 

    Obrestad Lighthouse

    Varhaug Old Cemetery

    Historic Site

    Varhaug Old Cemetery is an ancient site located on the old Kongevegen road. 

    Varhaug Old Cemetery

    Kvassheim Lighthouse

    Lighthouse

    Kvassheim Lighthouse is a historic lighthouse. 

    Kvassheim Lighthouse

    Hå Municipality

    Hitler's Teeth in Brusand

    WWII site

    Brusand is a small village with a population of 430. It is known for its beach, which has sandy dunes. Also, the largest carrot packing plant is located here!

    Brusand is also known for its Hitler Teeth, which are a series of concrete blocks set up alongside the highway. These are anti-tank obstacles set up by Germans in World War II.

    They were placed here by prisoners of war and forced labour workers. The Germans were worried an Allied invasion would come by sea, so they had these concrete blocks built to delay tanks advancing towards settlements. However, no Allied invasion ever came. 

    The prisoners sabotaged the teeth by mixing in more sand than concrete, making them weaker. They used to be on the whole coast, but this is one of the few spots that still has them.

    Magma Geopark

    Natural Attraction

    Shortly before Egersund is the Magma Geopark, an area with such a unique geology that it has been recognised by UNESCO. Here is also the world’s only sandy beach consisting of moon stone.

    The rock here is the same as the one found on the moon: Anorthosite. Astronauts have even visited the area to prepare for taking rock samples on the moon.

    Egersund

    Egersund is a charming small town on the south coast of Norway. It has lots of wonderful shops and cafes, making it a perfect place to stop on your road-trip. 

    Egersund Travel Guide

    Continue the drive

    Egersund to Dalen

    Cross the mountains over to Dalen in Telemark. 

    Egersund to Dalen

    Previous Drive

    Ryfylke Tourist Road

    Take the drive from Odda to Stavanger via the traditional region of Ryfylke. 

    Ryfylke Tourist Road

    This drive is part of the multi-day series “Ultimate Norway”. You can read about the whole drive below. 

    View Our 'Ultimate Norway' Road-trip

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Dalen, Southern Norway, Stave Churches, Telemark

    Eidsborg Stave Church & West Telemark Museum

    Eidsborg Stave Church & West Telemark Museum

    Eidsborg Stave Church is one of the 28 remaining stave churches in Norway. Built some time between 1250 and 1300, the church stands out for being one of the smallest stave churches. Additionally, it is an important pilgrimage church that gave way to its own cult in the old times! Eidsborg Stave Church is located on the hill above the village of Dalen, and today is part of the Vest Telemark Museum. A visit to the church also includes a look at the historic farm buildings from the region. Here’s my overview of the history and importance of Eidsborg Stave Church.

    In this article...

    The Fv38 Highway

    Eidsborg Stave Church is located along the Fv38, which is the main highway through Telemark. You can find my guide for the Fv38 by clicking the link below. 

    The Fv38 Highway
    Dalen Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Historic Overview

    Eidsborg Stave Church in 1929

    The timber on Eidsborg Stave Church dates the church some time between 1250 and 1300, though the exact date is unknown. The first written mention of the church is from 1354, but it’s definitely older than that. There’s indication that another church stood on the site before then.

    There are many legends associated with this church. The church is said to have been built by the underjordiske. They are spirit beings who live underground or in nature as invisible creatures next to humans, often near farms.

    Like all the 28 stave churches in Norway, Eidsborg has underwent some changes over the years. The chorus was demolished in 1826 and the choir is from 1845-1850. Unlike some other stave churches, Eidsborg lacks foundation stones. Only the nave is original. Also, unlike other stave churches, Eidsborg is built with vertical logs instead of horizontal ones.
    The next renovation was in 1927, when architects made efforts to make the church look more like its 17th century appearance. The last restoration took place between 2005-2008.

    Eidsborg is one of the smallest stave churches in the country. The inside area is approximately 30m2.

    St. Nicholas

    Eidsborg Stave Church is dedicated to St. Nicholas. There is a statue of him inside the church that is from when the church was built. Sadly today the one inside the church is a copy, while the original is now in the Folke Museum (open-air museum) in Oslo.

    This statue developed something of a cult in the old times. We know St. Nicholas as the generous saint and origin of Santa Clause. Well, the original Nicholas was the bishop of Myra and served in the 300s. In the 5th century, the worship of saints began with him. Eventually, more than 2,000 churches in Europe were dedicated to him. One of them was Eidsborg. Eidsborg was likely dedicated to St. Nicholas as he was also the stonemasons patron saint. The village Eidgsborg had sharpening stone (whetstone) production.

    The wooden figure became a cult icon. Every Midsummer Eve (St. Hans Eve), locals gave the wooden figure gifts. After this, the locals would say prays to the church. They then carried out to a water source, where they washed it. Sweat from the wooden sculpture was supposed to have healing power and cleanse sins. This was very unique that a Catholic symbol would have pagan ritual traditions. It is also found at Røldal Stave Church. This tradition took place until 1750.

    The Antiquities Collection took the statue in 1845, and in 1965 Eidsborg got a copy. The ritual is now a historical play that takes place once a year.

    Pilgrims Road

    Eidsborg Stave Church is one of the very few churches in Norway on a pilgrims road. The other other pilgrims stave church is Røldal. Eidsborg is actually located on the pilgrims road to Røldal.

    Vest Telemark Museum

    Eidsborg Stave Church is located as part of the Vest Telemark Museum. If you visit Eidsborg, you must take some time to see the other buildings on the farm. I was able to see this buildings for free while the museum was closed. You can’t, of course, go inside without paying the admission fee. Still, it’s a nice area to walk around in. Here’s what you can see.

    Stålekleivsloftet

    This is the oldest non-church wooden building in the Norway and one of the oldest in the world. It’s unsure exactly when this building came to be, but there have bmanyrous studies into this. The construction technique is finndalslaft, and this is not found in Norway after the Black Death in 1349. Furthermore, there is a rune inscription in the attic dated to 1300. Lastly, in recent years the timber has been studied. It is likely that the timber was felled around the year 1167.

    This building is the first of its kind in Eidsborg. It was for a woman called Åse Stålekleiv, who is something of a local legend here. Basically, in 1200 she was an extremely wealthy landowner in Eidsborg. She needed a building to store her linen, so her sons built her this one!

    You can read all about her on the West Telemark Museum website.

    Practical Information

    Getting there

    Eidsborg is a short but steep and windy drive from Dalen, famous for the Telemark Canal. It’s clearly marked on maps, street signs, and Google Maps.

    Opening hours

    You can see some the buildings and the stave church all year round, but the museum has specific opening hours. Check the current opening times here.

    Admission

    You can see the outside of the church and some of the buildings for free, but to go inside you need to pay an admission. Check the current prices here.

    The Fv38 Highway

    Eidsborg Stave Church is located along the Fv38, which is the main highway through Telemark. You can find my guide for the Fv38 by clicking the link below. 

    The Fv38 Highway
    Dalen Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide
  • National Tourist Roads, Road-trips, Southern Norway

    Drive it Yourself: the Ryfylke Scenic Road

    Drive it Yourself: the Ryfylke Tourist Road

    Rocky mountains, steep cliffs and scenic views. The Ryfylke Scenic Road is a true gem of southern Norway; built to serve the new hydropower plants, it’s hard to believe that this wasn’t designed as a tourist road. Today, it’s a scenic alternative to the main highway between Bergen and Stavanger.

    I did the Ryfylke Scenic Road in September 2020 as part of my Ultimate Norwegian Road Trip. Here’s my driving guide with what you can see and experience, as well as a summary of the history and significance of each major sight. I’ve also included as much practical information as I can so you know exactly what to expect on the road.

    Ultimate Norwegian Road-Trip

    In this article...

    Download this Guide

    All of our guides can be downloaded via our online store. 

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

    View at the Store

    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Information about facilities along the way

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the region & towns
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Facilities including supermarkets, toilets, petrol, hotels, cafes, restaurants with addresses.

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    Visit Our YouTube Channel

    The Drive: Ryfylke Tourist Road

    Odda

    Odda is a small industrial town located at the end of the Sørfjorden. It’s growing in popularity thanks to its nearby natural attractions, namely the Troll Tongue hike and the Folgefonna National Park.

    Odda Travel Guide

    Sandvinvatnet

    Lake

    Sandvinvatnet is the lake you’ll pass immediately after leaving Odda. The lake is 4.3km2 (1.7 sq mi) and is close to the Buarbreen glacier, which is on the opposite side from where we are driving. You can take a detour there, but it adds considerable time.

    Låte Waterfall (Låtefossen)

    Waterfall

    This is one of the most popular places for visitors to take photos, and understandably so! It’s just before the village of Skare.

    The waterfall is 95m (312ft) high and is well-known for the two separate streams flowing down from a lake on the hill. They then go under the E13 highway, and there is a historic stone six-arched bridge over the falls.

    There is a carpark and footpath here. Just keep in mind it’s still a major highway so cars do rush past, and parking is very limited for such a popular attraction.

    I’ve got a full article about the waterfall, which you can read here.

     

    Låtefossen Waterfall

    Røldalsfjellet/Seljestadjuvet

    Scenic Road

    If you’re short on time you can opt to take the tunnels to Horda, but if you want to see some scenery you can take the old road over the mountains to Horda. The turn off is just before the Seljestadtunnelen.

    The Seljestadjuvet road has recently been re-paved so it’s a modern road, but it’s very narrow and consists of several hairpin bends. The road was built between 1859 and 1865 and is considered a piece of Norwegian history. The repaved road is newer than this; it is possible to hike the original 1850s road. Pilgrims used to use this road as they made their way to the historic Røldal Stave Church; it was also used by traders on their way to Røldal Market and travellers on their way east.

    The road is only open for vehicles under 2m.

    You can see the entire road on my YouTube video.

     

    Røldal Stave Church

    Stave Church

    Click the button below for my overview of Røldal Stave Church. 

    Røldal Stave Church

    Rogaland County

    Rogaland is a county in the south-western part of Norway. The first element of the name comes from rygir, which refers to a tribe that used to live in the area. The second element, land, means ‘land’ or ‘region’. Finds of skeletons have been found from the Stone Age, while many items from the Bronze Age and Iron Age have been found. Many crosses in the Irish style have also been found.

    The coastal part of Rogaland was important during the Viking Age and rich finds indicate that there was strong chieftainship here from the Iron Age. Stavanger was a centre of power.

    Sauda Municipality

    Sauda’s business life is primarily based on metal processing, and unlike the rest of Rogaland there is no focus on agriculture here. 

    The way the landscape was formed comes from the last Ice Age. The ice that slid down from the Sauda mountains collided with a glacier. This collision created the Hylsfjord and resulted in the Saudafjord meeting the Sandsfjord. The narrow straits make it difficult for ships to call at the port of Sauda. During the Nazi occupation, the Germans planned to build a canal to make it easier. The plateaus were formed approximately 10,000 years ago during the last Ice Age. 

    Sauda

    Town

    With a population of 4,254 inhabitants, Sauda is the fifth largest town in Rogaland county. It is primarily an industrial town. From the medieval period onwards, waterfall power was used to run sawmills. People from all over the world, especially the Netherlands, started to traude with Sauda. By the end of the 19th century mining began here. In 1910 the American company Electric Furnace Company began the construction of then Europe’s largest smelting plant, which could only be built because of the large number of waterfalls. During World War II, the Germans built a large aluminium melting plant, though those buildings have since been demolished. 

    Sauda has historically been an important area for industry. It is home to Northern Europe’s largest melting plant, Eramet AS. 

    Svandalsfossen

    Waterfall

    Svandalsfossen is a beautiful waterfall located just outside Sauda. What makes the waterfall interesting is that there is a staircase with 540 steps leading up the side of the waterfall. The staircase system was built in 2006 and if you make it to the top you’ll be rewarded with a nice shower from the waterfall.

    You’ll see brown tourist signs pointing to the carpark as you get close. If you don’t wish to park, you will very clearly see the waterfall as you drive past it.

    Suldal Municipality

    Suldal is a small agricultural municipality in the traditional Ryfylke district. The area has a long history of trade connections to the nearby valley regions in the north and east and is located on the historic trade route. The administrative centre is Sand i Ryfylke.

    Hålandsosen

    Settlement

    Hålandsosen is the next settlement you’ll drive through. Here you’ll see the Erfjord Church, which is a white, wooden church from 1877. There is also a historic home here called Storgarden i Erfjord, which is part of the Ryfylke Museum. The museum was built in the 17th century and is open for private tours.

    Hjelmeland Municipality

    Hjelmeland is a municipality within the traditional district of Ryfylke. Traditionally, agriculture and fruit growing have been the most important industries. There is some heavy industry here too, with a large sand outlet at Årdal. Sand is collected in the village, cleaned and then exported on ships. At Hundsnes there is a salmon abattoir. The traditional Jaeren chairs also come from here.

    Nesvik - Hjelmeland Ferry

    Settlement

    This is where you take the only ferry on this road-trip to Hjelmeland. Just follow signs to Stavanger & Hjelmeland to get onto the ferry. The ferry runs approximately every twenty minutes.

    Hjelmelandsvågen

    Village

    Hjelmelandsvagen is the small village on the other side of the ferry.

    One of the more unique things to visit here is the “World’s largest traditional Jærstol” (Jaeren Chair). It is clearly marked on Google Maps.

    Årdal

    Town

    Årdal is a small village in the Hjelmeland municipality. The main industry here is sand, crushed stone and gravel, with about one million tons shipped every year. 

    Located in the village is the historic Old Årdal Church. The church was built in 1620, though the earliest church documents date back to 1308. The first church on the site was a stave church likely built in the 13th century. The new church from 1620 was built using some of the materials from the stave church and part of the foundation under the southwest corner is on the same foundation as the medieval stave church. 

    In 1919, the new Årdal Church was built about 600 metres to the southwest of the old church, and since then Årdal Old Church has not been used regularly. It is still used for weddings and concerts. 

    Strand Municipality

    Strand municipality is known for its production of fruit, vegetables, and dairy products. There are also some mills located in the municipality. The coat-of-arms shows three red water wheels on a grey background, symbolising hydropower in the region.

    Tau

    Village

    Tau is a small village within Strand Municipality. The main employer here is Comrod Communications, which manufactures antennas for military use.

    Ryfylke Tunnel

    Tunnel

    At 14.4km (8.9 mi) long the Ryfylke Tunnel is currently the world’s longest and deepest subsea tunnel at the time it was built. In 2023 Rogfast, another subsea tunnel in Rogaland County, is expected to open and take over the title from the Ryfylke Tunnel. The tunnel opened in December 2019 after six years of construction.

    When you come out on the other side, you are in Stavanger.

    Stavanger

    Stavanger is an interesting city with strong Viking connections. However, today Stavanger is known throughout Norway for being the centre of the oil industry.

    Read more about Stavanger via the link below. 

    Stavanger Travel Guide

    Continue the drive

    The Jæren Tourist Road

    Continue your drive through Southern Norway by taking the very unique Jæren Tourist Road. 

    Jæren Tourist Road

    This drive is part of the multi-day series “The Ultimate Norwegian Road-Trip”, which is a 10 day road-trip to the best spots in Norway. You can view the entire drive below. 

    Ultimate Norway Road-Trip

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Jæren, Southern Norway

    Tracing the Vikings at the Sola Ruin Church

    Tracing the Vikings at the Sola Ruin Church

    Back in September 2020, the husband and I did a 10-day roadtrip around Norway. After leaving Stavanger, we drove south along the Jæren Scenic Road. While finding our way to the start of the road, we came across signs leading to this church. I hadn’t read up on it beforehand, but I never say no to a historic site photo-stop. And I’m so glad we decided to stop at the Sola Ruin Church (Sola Ruinkyrkje).

    This historic church is located in Sola Municipality just outside Stavanger. The church was active from 1150 – 1842 before being converted into a private residence. During the war, the Germans destroyed it. The church has since been restored, and now its history is being uncovered. Interestingly, the history is very closely linked with the Viking Age.

    In this article, I’ll go over the area and the history of the church, plus the Vikings it has been linked with. 

    In this article...

    The Fv44 Highway

    Sola Ruin Church is located along the Fv44, the main highway from Stavanger to Flekkefjord. You can find my guide for the Fv44 by clicking the link below.  

    The Fv44 Highway
    Stavanger Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Sola Municipality

    The area around Sola is rich in historic sites. Above all, Rich grave finds, ancient monuments and traces of large farms are from the Stone Age, Bronze Age and Viking Age. Moreover, all the finds show that Sola was a rich and important place. Sola was home to many powerful men during the Viking Age. It’s also believed that the unification of Norway took place on an island in Sola.

    Today Sola is known for Stavanger Airport, which occupies a very large area of Sola. Norwegian Air has its technical base in Sola. Sola also has a large container port at Risavika. Several oil companies have their Norwegian head office in Sola. Above all, Sola is an important agricultural municipality. There is the production of dairy products, meat, vegetables, strawberries and cucumbers.

    Erling Skjalgsson

    Erling pictured at his death

    It’s good to know a little about Erling Skjalgsson, especially since he’ll be mentioned quite a bit. Erling Skjalgsson (960-975 to 1027-1028) was a ruler of southern Norway. He is also the brother in law of Olav Tryggvason, who founded Trondheim. Historians aren’t 100% sure about where he lived, but most believe it was on Sola on a farm near the church. Others think he lived in Stavanger.

    Moreover, Erling aligned himself with Olav Tryggvason and received a large chunk of southern Norway to rule. After Olav was killed in battle, the leaders split Norway into three, which served Erling well. However, when Olav Haraldsson arrived in 1015, he had plans to rule the entire country.

    Erling continued to enforce his power on southwest Norway. King Olav tried to split his powers by introducing new men to control the area. However, they were quickly pushed out by Erlings men. In 1027, Erling went to England to get the support of Canute the Great. Erling returned in 1028 and rallied an army with the intent of fighting Olav. However, Erling was trapped on a ship by King Olav’s fleet in the Battle of Boknafjorden near Bokn in Rogaland. The ship overturned and the men captured Erling. As Olav was about to pardon Erling, one of Olav’s men cut off Erling’s head with an axe.

    According to the sagas, King Olav said to the killer “you feel! Now you hewed Norway off my hands!” the kings prediction came true. Backed by Canute the Great, Erling’s allies went on to drive Olav out of the country. They killed him at the Battle of Stiklestad in 1030.

    Sola Ruin Church & Christianity in Sola

    Christianity in Sola

    Comparatively, christianity came to Sola early. There are few pagan mounds from the 10th century here, especially when compared to other parts of Norway. This indicates that ancient customs had already given way to Christianity.

    Several large stone crosses from this period still stand – there are two on Tjora (the largest is 2.2m high). I’m so sad I didn’t know about these before renting a car and driving through Norway. It’s on the ‘next time’ list for sure. Anyway, the crosses are from the 10th century. There used to be three stone crosses; one is now in a museum in Bergen.

    Moreover, Erling Skjalgsson converted to Christianity to marry Astrid Tryggvesdatter, sister of Olav Tryggvason. According to the saga, Olav wanted a council (ting) set up as soon as he came to Sola to christianise the area. They picked out the three most eloquent peasants to speak out against Olav christianising them. When Olav showed up, they confronted him. The first did not say a word. The other suddenly became dumb, and the third was so hoarse that no one heard him. Therefore, there was no resistance to Olav and everyone in the council was baptised before Olav left.

    Monument to Erling Skjalgsson and Astrid Tryggvesdatter

    History of the Church

    It’s possible that the predecessor to this church was a stave church. Some historians believe Erling Skjalgsson built the church in connection with his farm. The location of the church has a view towards Sola Beach, the sea, and Hafrsfjord. Erling died in 1028. After Erling died, his relatives are documented with building stone churches in the area. However, Sola Ruin Church is been dated to between 1120 and 1130. Above all, this is around the same time other stone churches in southern Norway were built. Since Erling was killed 100 years before that, Sola ruin Church is not his church. Still, it’s possible that the predecessor was his church. Sadly, the ground where the ruins would’ve been was destroyed by the artist when he moved in (more on that soon). The artist also removed the tombs in the nave.

    The stone crosses, churches and cemeteries in Sola testify not only to a dense settlement during the Viking Age but also great people coming here. Additionally, there was great wealth in the area. The land in Jaeren and Sola is among the best agricultural land in Norway. Additionally, the area is close to the North Sea and trade routes, making it great for Viking expeditions.

    Most importantly, Sola Church was in use until 1842.

    You can see an image of the church in ruins in the 19th century here: https://digitaltmuseum.no/021018297305/postkort-med-motiv-av-sola-ruinkirke

    “Naval Battle of Madagascar”

    Private ownership

    In 1871, painter Johan Bennetter bought the church ruin. He converted it into a provide home with a studio. In 1907, the Bennetter family moved into a new house built into the garden south of the church. The house is no longer standing.

    Johan Bennetter (1822-1904) is a Norwegian naval painter in the Hague and Paris. He returned to Norway in 1880 to decorate his home and studio in Sola’s old church. His most famous work is ‘Naval Battle of Madagascar’, owned by the National Gallery. Above all, as a naval painter, he is recognised for his lifelike waves.

    You can see what the church looked like as a house here: https://www.solahistorielag.no/events/bennetter-og-hellandfamilienes-dype-spor-pa-sola-innen-kunst-kultur-og-arkitektur-ved-arvid-baerheim/

    World War II

    On the day of occupation, 9 April 1940, the Germans took control of Sola Airport. It was as one of the most important bases in Norway. The Germans believed that the church could be used by the Allies as an approach target. Because of this, they demolished the church. Moreover, they left the remains on the site as a large stone mound. Fortunately, the Germans marked each stone and where it had stood in the church.

    Sola Ruin Church
    Sola Ruin Church from the front – me in reflection for scale 😉

    Restoring the Church

    In 1982, the Sola Municipality and the National Heritage Board began the restoration. It started with an archaeological excavation of the church ruin in 1986. Above all, the excavation found 31 graves, some inside the church and others outside. The tower was not touched by Benneter, and graves lay in the tower. The most important was one of a 60 year old woman who was in a spacious, iron-clad pine coffin. She was wrapped in textiles and leather.

    Moreover, two post-holes were found that date back to 595AD – 670AD and the other from 650-760AD. Both came long before the Viking Age. Moreover, Archaeologists also looked into the carpark area and found two fireplaces that date back to 660-1020 AD. One of them fits in with the Viking times. It indicates that there were buildings here in the Viking age. This is possibly where Erling Skjalgsson lived.

    In 1992, the church was restored after an architectural competition to its present form. They have put glass on the missing sections, creating a unique appearance.

    Not much from the church is preserved. There is a soapstone coffin from the Middle Ages. It is part of the collection of the Bergen Museum.

    Sola Ruin Church
    Sola Ruin Church

    The church today

    The church is used every year when the mayor of Sola municipality awards the Human Rights Prize for the Nordjæren region in the church. This usually takes place on UN day on 24 October. The prize consists of a sculpture of the Erling Skjalgsson monument, a diploma, and 25,000 NOK. It is distributed to an institution, organisation or individual in the region who has made an effort to promote work on the knowledge of human rights.

    The church is very popular for weddings and concerts. It has a capacity of 68 people. Moreover, when it’s not rented out, it’s possible to book a guided tour of the church.

    A monument to Erling Skjalgsson stands outside the church.

    Practical Information

    Address & Getting There

    Bautavegen 10, 4050 Sola

    Signs? Yes – they say ‘Sola Ruinkyrkje’

    Note – the church is located on a sleepy residential street. Please be respectful of the neighbours! The roads are narrow. Moreover, it’s important to note that “Sola Ruin Church” is not the same as the nearby “Sola Church”.

    Parking

    Free parking. The carpark is located a short walk from the church.

    Restrooms

    No restrooms.

    Walks

    If you’ve got some time to spare, there’s a walking route around Sola. It will take you past some of the historic monuments mentioned above. What’s great about Sola is that it has a flat landscape, making the walk very pleasant.

    You can read about the walk here: https://ut.no/turforslag/1112746/solaturen (it’s in Norwegian but translates easily)

    Information Sign

    Information sign

    There is an information board in Norwegian with a summary in English. It also has images of the church throughout history.

    Final Thoughts

    The church is a real delight, especially when kickstarting a drive through southern Norway. However, I’m a little sad to see just how much the church has been affected by history. Very little of the historic Viking church remains, so it serves as a gentle reminder that history is worth preserving.

    If you’re in the area, it’s well worth stopping by. The visit will be quick but you’ll get some lovely photos.

    The Fv44 Highway

    Sola Ruin Church is located along the Fv44, the main highway from Stavanger to Flekkefjord. You can find my guide for the Fv44 by clicking the link below.  

    The Fv44 Highway
    Stavanger Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide
  • Southern Norway, Stavanger, Walking Guides

    The Streets of Stavanger Self-Guided Walking Tour

    The Streets of Stavanger Self-Guided Walking Tour

    I love Stavanger. It’s one of those places that I didn’t think much of at first, until I really got to walk around. It’s got such a fascinating history, from the Cathedral’s founding to the canning industry and now this oil wealth. When visitors come to Stavanger, they typically go straight to Gamle Stavanger. In my opinion, the city centre is just as charming with its wooden houses, architecture, and history. So, I made a Stavanger self-guided walking tour.

    In this article...

    Stavanger Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Stavanger Self-Guided Walking Tour

    Start: Torget

    Welcome to Stavanger! Our walk starts at Torget, the main square and centre of Stavanger. Until the 11th century, it was nothing more than a bay in the middle of a sandy beach. It was filled in and extended by the locals, and over the centuries has become an important commerce and meeting place. 

    Today Torget has a new fish market building and several restaurants. More houses stood here originally, but over the last century, they were removed. All the old warehouses are now restaurants and bars.

    Kongsgård Royal Estate

    Kongsgård is a historic royal residence. The property owned all this land you see around you now, including the lake. Until the Reformation, the building was used by the bishop and his staff. The bishop’s manor was looted, and houses were burned down during Pentecost 1539 by about 60 pirates. In 1607, the sheriff received permission to rebuilt, and he did. However, by the late 18th century Kongsgård was broke. 

    Kongsgård became the Stavanger Cathedral School in 1824. Kongsgård is mentioned a lot in the writing of Alexander Kielland as he was a student here.

    During World War II, the Germans used Kongsgård as a quarter for the Local German Commander. A fire on Easter Sunday 1942 destroyed large parts of the building. Initially, the Germans didn’t want to let the fire brigade put out the fire. As a result, the extend of the fire was greater than it should have been. 34 students lost their lives during the war. 10 lecturers from the school were sent to concentration camps. From 1945, Kongsgård became the school. The main building is from the Middle Ages and includes the bishops chapel and knights hall.

    Byparken

    Until the 1960s, this was part of the Kongsgård property. The part closest to the cathedral used to be a cemetery. It’s believed there was a lavish garden and ponds as far back as 1299.

    Stavanger Cathedral

    Most importantly, we are at the town’s most famous landmark: the Stavanger Cathedral. This is the oldest cathedral in Norway; older than Nidaros Cathedral in Trondheim. I know we’ve had a lot of history so far on this walk, but it’s all coming together!

    Web link

    Stavanger was founded as a city in 1125, around the same time the Cathedral was built. The royals in Norway needed to have some control over the pagans in the south. They introduced Christianity with force and built the Cathedral. Yet, it’s a bit of a chicken and egg situation. What came first – the town or the cathedral? I can’t imagine them building a cathedral in the middle of nowhere, but the town likely didn’t exist until the cathedral was built. Anyway.

    Subsequently, a fire in 1272 destroyed the cathedral. Above all, it was rebuilt between 1276 and 1303, this time in stone, and it took on the Gothic feel we see today. 

    The Ruins of St. Mary's Church

    Yes, there’s no church here today. Most importantly, St. Mary’s Church stood here from the 12th century until the 19th century, when it was torn down. The church has a sad and complicated history. 

    It is uncertain why St. Mary’s Church stood so close to Stavanger Cathedral. One theory is that is a replacement cathedral from the great fire of 1272. Above all, it took a long time to rebuild the cathedral, so it was necessary to have a temporary house of worship. Another theory is that it was a separate independent church. The church may be from the 12th century. Around that time churches called St. Mary’s went up in Nidaros, Bergen, Oslo and Tønsberg.

    However, the church fell into disrepair after the Reformation in 1537. It became a hangout for the towns drunkards. In 1565, the town’s bourgeoisie took over the church and converted into a town hall and parliament. The city’s gallows stood outside. A prison was built in the church and developed a bad reputation for great suffering. 

    Moreover, in 1865, the church became a fire station. Less than 20 years later, the fire brigade and prison moved out. A city engineer proposed that the building is antique and thus should be torn down. The city demolished the church in 1883.

    Donkirkeplassen

    This is the name of the square next to the ruins of St. Mary’s Church. This is the site of the old Bishops Estate. It was the residence of the bishops of Stavanger and bordered the old St. Mary’s Church. For instance, the name of our next point of interest, Laugmannsgata, comes from two lawyers who lived in Bispegården. The building was demolished in 1957. The Norges Bank building is where the NOKAS robbery took place.

    Laugmannsgata

    This is one of the city’s oldest streets, linking Domkirkeplassen to Arneageren. The name comes from two lawyers who lived at Bispegården in the 18th century. 

    Arneageren

    Arneageren is a public square. It is home to the culture house, which was built in 1987. The culture house has various galleries, cafes, kiosks, a cinema and an art school for kids.

    The Film Theatre building is next to the culture house and a little older. Dating back to 1924, the building is neoclassical. It is regarded as one of the most important representatives of this style in Rogaland county. The Film Theatre was rebuilt in connection with the culture house in 1988. The square is well-known in Stavanger. Throughout the week, political and religious organisations distribute brochures. There is regular music from groups and street musicians.

    Søregata

    Søregata runs along the border of the old Arnegård farm. While the street itself is old, the exact age is unknown. In the 19th century, this street was known for its eateries and bars. Many workers and sailors lived along this street and there was a liquor distillery at the end. The cafes would display the dish of the day in the window. It’s not like the Asian restaurants (if you’ve been to countries like Japan) that have plastic displays. No, these cafes used real food. By the end of the day, the food had attracted many flies. 

    Mauritzengården

    Mauritzengården is a house from 1905. It was commissioned by soap factory owner Svan Mauritzen.  The building is considered one of the city’s finest Art Nouveau brick buildings. It is built in red brick with a corner tower and a spire. 

    Kirkegata

    Kirkegata is the first ever pedestrian street in Norway – announced in 1960. The name means ‘Church Street’, so the street leads to Stavanger Cathedral. If you turn left you’ll be at Stavanger Cathedral in two blocks. 

    It’s believed that Kirkegata was a street from before the year 1100. It’s had different names throughout history, including Urgata and Holmengata. Urgata refers to a natural clock. One theory is that building materials for Stavanger Cathedral were stored here, and that a wrecked stone was tipped down and turned into a clock. Holmen refers to the flat edge near the water – today it’s the name fo the northern part of Stavanger inner city. After the fire of 1860, the street got the name Kirkegata.

    Steinkargata

    This is an old street that linked the two main streets Østervåg with Kirkegata. It previously had the name “The Street to Østervåg”, indicating its purpose. Today’s name refers to a stone vessel used to moor boats. A wharf called “Laksebrygga” (Salmon Wharf) used to be here. Until the 1850s, fishermen docked here. The 1860 fire destroyed both sides of the street, so everything was rebuilt after that. 

    Sølvberggata

    Sølvberggata is from around the 17th century. The name comes from a large rock that used to stand where Arneageren is today; it was blasted away just after World War II. Sølvberg means ‘Silver mountain’ and refers to a large rock that used to stand where Arneageren is today. 

    Østervåg

    We’ve made it to Østervåg! This is the city’s main street. The name roughly means ‘East Bay’ and refers to the stretch of sea nearby. Østervåg was the natural harbour for scheduled shipping traffic and the fishing fleet. The bay area used to have shipyards. 

    Østervåg is one of the most important streets from the Middle Ages. The property Arnegård was here, and Østevåg ran through it. The street linked the bishop’s pier (Bispebrygga) to the Stavanger Cathedral. Østervåg is first mentioned in 1297 in relation to this pier. It’s believed that this was the medieval town centre. 

    The area we are on is very narrow, but it gradually becomes wider. This marks where the 1860 fire spread. The narrower part of the street was untouched, whereas the wider part of the street had burned down and was regulated and levelled after the fire. The fire started at the corner of Østervåg and Breigata. 

    Geoparken

    Geoparken (built 2008) is a playground built with items used in the oil industry. The layout is designed to replicate the formation of the Troll Field in the North Sea. 

    Norwegian Oil Museum

    The Norwegian Oil Museum is an excellent place to learn about the Norwegian oil industry. The museum covers the entirety of Norway’s oil journey. It stars from early exploration to discovery, foreign help and current environmental concerns. The museum has a lot of information boards, photographs, footage, and objects used to help develop the oil platforms. Main Article: The Oil Museum

    Norwegian Oil Museum

    I have a separate article for the Norwegian Oil Museum, which you can read via the link below. 

    Oil Museum

    The Colour Street

    Welcome to Norway’s most colourful street!

    The concept of having a colourful street starts in 2005. Hairdresser Tom Kjørsvik wanted to create a vibrant atmosphere to draw more visitors to the area. Scottish artist Craig Flannagan designed the colours to have a Miami Vice theme. It’s not only the colours that make the street work. The houses have deliberate colour combinations. Each house as a series of colours for its facade, doors and window frames. Each colour scheme harmonises the house.

    View their Facebook page for current events

    Valberget

    Valberget Viewpoint is the site of the city’s old fortress. The date of the fortress is unknown. The land was likely given to Stavanger during the Nordic Seven Years’ War in 1567. The city likely needed defence for the sea after the Swedes were trying to take Bergen from the sea in 1564.

    Above all, fires have destroyed the fortress many times. There’s not much of the original fortress remaining. Its current appearance is from the 19th century. They had 12 12-pound cannons circling the tower. In 1840, they discarded the cannons when four men went on trial for refusing to shoot with them. They were acquired because the cannons were proven to be life threatening. Today the cannons are decorations on the viewpoint.

    The tower is not original – it was built in 1850 and is a lookout tower. 

    Skagen

    Skagen is a street that runs parallel along the bay, Vågen, linking Torget to Holmen. It is one of the city’s liveliest streets with many shops and nightclubs. But it is also home to some of Stavanger’s oldest buildings. 

    That is to say, the name Skagen is common all throughout Scandinavia and refers to a headland. It’s believed the street was here in the Middle Ages and is largely unchanged from the 13th century. Archaeological finds show that there were buildings here in the Middle Ages. 

    We are in the upper part of Skagen, making our way down to the lower and older part.

    The Clarion Hotel is where a cannery used to be. The cannery ran for three generations before being demolished in 1964 and replaced with the hotel. For example, Chr. Bjelland & Co, is one of Stavanger’s most famous canneries (see the history section). 

    Certainly, as we walk along Skagen, you’ll notice many references to shipbuilding, merchants, and steamships (dampskip). It indicates what exactly this street was used for. 

    Skagen 18

    Most importantly, Skagen 18 is one of the city’s oldest and most famous buildings. It is from after the 1684 fire, though a building stood here before then. The oldest known inhabitants are Sidsel Olsdatter Cruys and Albert Albertsen Libert. They aren’t famous Norwegians; just residents who have been remembered in history thanks to their house being the longest lasting. They lived here between 1687 and 1700. Moreover, inside the building are rosemaling decorations from before 1710. Merchant and shipowner Ole Smith Plow is the next owner; establishing his business in 1768. In 1787, the building got its Rococo facade.

    Today it is a bakery.

    M/S Rogaland

    Rogaland was built by the local shipyard in 1929. She sailed in the Coastal Express Service between Oslo and Stavanger during the day. At night, she did the Night Service between Stavanger and Bergen.

    In Bergen in April 1944, during the occupation, there was a large explosion on the harbour. That explosion killed one crew member of the Rogaland, injured five and seriously damaged the ship. The ship sank to the bottom of the bay. Declared a write-off, compensation went to the owner and the Stavangerske Company bought the wreckage. It was sealed in a shipyard in Bergen and then towed to a shipyard in Stavanger for repairs. Repairs finished in 1947. The ship resumed regular service at a limited passenger capacity. 

    After sending service in 1965, a group of enthusiasts purchased the ship in the 1980s. After lots of restoration, it is operational and can carry up to 100 passengers. The ship features in the 2016 film Dunkirk as a painted white hospital ship. The ship may or may not be in the harbour. If you walk onto the other side of the bay, you’ll see an information board for the ship. 

    Torget

    We’ve made it back to Torget and are now at the end of our walk.

    I hope you enjoyed this Stavanger self-guided walking tour.

    Stavanger Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide