Northern Norway

  • Northern Lights, Northern Norway

    Mistakes People Make When Observing the Northern Lights

    Mistakes People Make When Observing the Northern Lights

    At the moment I’m sitting in a hotel room in Rovaniemi hoping the clouds clear and my group can see some northern lights. It got me thinking about all the mistakes people make when observing the northern the lights, so I thought I should make a blog about it! Okay, I’m also trying to keep myself awake long enough to see them.

    I’ve been travelling to the Arctic to see the northern lights for eight seasons, and I feel like I have to give the same ‘reality check’ to every group I pick up. Many have the wrong expectations when coming to Northern Europe to seeing the northern lights, and one of the most important factors as a trip leader is to set realistic expectations. As an operator and agent, I feel it is even more important!

    Here are the common problems I find when people are booking northern lights trips, based on my experience. 

    In this article...

    Staying too far south

    People very often plan a trip to Norway to see the northern lights and stay too far south. People ask if it’s possible to see the northern lights in places like Oslo and Bergen. Tourism boards don’t help, either. They often use photos of the big cities under the northern lights in their marketing material. I live in Bergen and can tell you that we see the northern lights maybe once a month, but maybe in the city centre once or twice a season! The same goes for Oslo. Even Trondheim is too far south.

    I find cities on the Arctic Circle, such as Rovaniemi, can also be difficult because you are still technically quite far south. When you are further north, the strength of the lights doesn’t matter so much as they are guaranteed to reach there almost every night. When you are further south (but still within the Arctic Circle), you have to rely on the lights being a certain strength to reach you. It’s a fine art to planning where the right spot is, which is why it’s important to give yourself a lot of time in the north!

    Northern lights from my apartment in Bergen - this doesn't happen often!

    Going too far north doesn’t help, either

    The next problem is that people may go too far south. Svalbard is a fantastic place to see the lights, but often they are so strong that they actually go past Svalbard and can’t be seen there. Here’s a picture of the aurora belt as I write this article, and you’ll see the lights goes over Svalbard. 

    Many people may just look on a map and pick the northernmost spot they can get to – for example, Honningsvåg – but fail to recognise that many northern towns are prone to bad weather. Coastal Norway may be further north than somewhere like Saariselka or Abisko, but it’s prone to more clouds.

    That said, when the far north is clear, it’s practically guaranteed that you’ll see the northern lights. The best lights I’ve seen were just out of Båtsfjord, which is at 70 degrees north. However, Båtsfjord is on the Barents Sea and has many cloudy days. I just got lucky. In fact, this whole article can be summarised as “you have to just get lucky”, but that would be a boring read!

    My incredible northern lights night in Båtsfjord

    Picking the wrong place (or wrong time of year...)

    When looking for northern lights, there are two things that are important: Latitude and cloudy days. Look for somewhere that has few cloudy days.

    It’s also important to choose a place where you can do northern lights tours. It’s harder to see the lights in cities, so it’s important to get out with a guided tour to give yourself a good chance to see them.

    This may seem obvious to 99% of you, but you should also be aware that you can’t see the northern lights between mid-April and early August because it’s not dark enough. To see the lights you have to see stars, and that is not possible in those months because of the midnight sun. I’ve had people in July ask me if they can see the lights.

    The weather in December and January can be full of storms (it’s actually the rainiest time of year for some parts of Northern Norway), so the cloud coverage is often pretty consistent. When researching locations, also check how many rainy days on average they have. Abisko in Sweden actually has the most clear nights of anywhere in the aurora belt.

    You want to be in a place that is high with a wide sky – which is why Norway can be a problem with all the mountains. Lofoten is not a good place to see the lights (though they do appear there and the mountains make for spectacular photos!).

    I prefer high, wide and flat areas with little cloudy days. Wide skies and good visibility make a huge difference. 

    I came across this stock image and have so many questions. It's already cold enough out there - no need to get n the water!

    Not dressing appropriately (or being too impatient)

    I find it so frustrating when people spend years saving and then planning a northern lights tour, only to give up within the first 15 minutes of being outside because it’s too cold. Come on, you’re in the Arctic in winter! Dress appropriately.

    It is freezing cold in the winter (it’s -20C now in Rovaniemi) and standing still makes it feel even colder.

    Also – be patient! You may be standing outside for over an hour waiting for northern lights. They don’t come on with the flick of a light switch. Don’t give up after the first five minutes.

    Not staying long enough

    When I do my walking tours in Bergen, I meet many people who tell me they are flying to Tromsø for one or two nights before heading to Oslo or somewhere else. That’s crazy. I’ve been above the Arctic Circle for a week now, and we have had lights twice in that week. What I’m saying is that you need to give yourself time. You need at least five days in the Arctic to give yourself a strong chance of seeing the lights.

    My attempted selfie under the northern lights - November 2023

    Not booking a northern lights tour

    If you are serious about seeing the northern lights, you will book a tour. Many people fly to Tromsø and hope to see the lights from the city centre. It does happen, but not frequently. And the lights are never as bright in the cities because of light pollution. You need to get out to the countryside, and the way to do that is with a tour. They will drive you to where they are sure the lights will be seen. Nothing is better than that. Some tours will even teach you how to photograph the lights. Some companies even provide the appropriate clothing.

    Relying on apps or alarms

    Some people download all the northern lights apps and expect the apps to tell them when the lights are out. Some of the best lights I had were when the apps told me I had a 7% chance of seeing them! I got amazing northern lights in Ålesund and Hurtigruten never set off its northern lights alarm. If you want to see the lights, get out and look with your eyes.

    The best chance of seeing the northern lights is to go out and look for extended periods of time.

    Not having the right camera gear

    Not every camera takes the professional quality photos. Many point and shoot cameras will not pick up the northern lights, and many smart phones also can’t capture them. You need to have a DSLR camera (with a tripod!) that has a low F-stop (I use 1.4 but anything under 2.5 works) to be able to capture the lights. I use a wide angle lens especially for the lights. High-end iPhones and other smart phones can capture the lights pretty well.

    Also, make sure flash is turned off. It ruins not just your photos but everyone elses. 

    This guide perfectly summarises mistakes people make when photographing the lights. 

    Managing expectations

    The northern lights never look like the pictures when you’re looking at them in person. The lights are often a grey-ish colour and become a muted green if they are very strong. Very rarely will you see the purple or bright green with your eyes. 10% of people will never seen the green. Phones and cameras pick up the colours a lot better than our eyes can. The camera will often pick up the lights before you can see them with your eyes.

    Also, the intensity and the frequency of the lights varies a lot depending on atmospheric conditions and solar activity. The science is a lot more complicated, and factors like speed, density and solar storms weigh in a lot to what the lights will look like.

    Also, just because you are far north and have a clear night sky doesn’t mean you’ll see the northern lights.

    Mistakes people make when observing the northern lights

    That’s all I can think of. Sadly as I wrote this Rovaniemi got cloudy. So now we won’t see some lights. But that’s part of the adventure!

    I hope this was beneficial to you. Remember that you can reach out to me if you want help planning a northern lights trip, or you can read our northern lights travel guide. 

    Northern lights travel guide
    My trip planning services
  • Finland, Northern Norway

    Things to Consider When Booking a Northern Lights Tour

    Things to Consider When Booking a Northern Lights Tour

    This winter I have been taking groups up to the Arctic to help them try and find the northern lights. While it is possible to see the northern lights in the towns, I’ve been encouraging them to book tours so they can get out of the towns and be in complete darkness.

    In this article...

    Fixed location vs. flexible tours

    I noticed a lot of companies have northern lights tours where they take you out to their camp or campground. This is great because it is an indoor place where you can sit inside and relax while waiting for the lights to come out. However, there are some disadvantages.

    If the tour is going out to the one spot, there’s no flexibility. The northern lights may not be visible from their camp due to clouds, but it may be clear another 45 minutes away from the camp. For the tours that mention their cabin or camping area, you are stuck going to that one spot.

    I always recommend tours where the bus is driving wherever the northern lights have been seen.

    northern lights

    Big bus vs. minibus

    There aren’t too many differences between going on a big bus tour versus going with a mini-buss. In most situations, both buses will fit at any spot suitable for observing the northern lights.

    The big difference comes down to people, of course. Do you want to be sharing the same observation spot with 40 other people or 16 other people? More people means more time to get on/off the bus, more people setting up tripods, and more people potentially spoiling your photos by using flash (yes, it happens).

    You are basically paying a little bit more for a little bit more exclusivity. I would always pick a minibus tour over a big bus tour.

    Should I just do a bus tour or should I do an experience along with it?

    There are northern lights tour that just drive you around looking for northern lights, while there are other experiences that combine northern lights with activities. I see advantages and disadvantages of both.

    Say you want to combine the northern lights tour with a snowmobile safari. You head out, ride the snowmobile safari for two hours but see no northern lights. It’s a shame, but at least you had fun on the snowmobile?

    However, say you go on a snowmobile and get incredible lights. You can’t stop driving to set up your tripod and take pictures; you just get to experience the lights as you drive. It’s not a bad thing, but you miss out on photo opportunities. Also, experiences tend to be shorter than bus tours (2 hours vs 6 hours, for example), so you’re much more limited in how much you can see the northern lights.

    I’d say it comes down to personal preference. For me, I’d always pick a basic northern lights tour. If I want to see the northern lights, I want that to be the main focus of the night. Save the fun activities for the daytime when you can actually see around you!

    How long should the tour be?

    Ideally you want to book a tour that will go for at least 6 hours. Most tours start at 6pm and will have you back by midnight. While the northern lights can be seen early in the evening, sometimes they like to wait until the middle of the night or even early morning. The northern lights are at their best between 10pm and 1am, so you don’t want a four-hour tour sending you home at 10pm.

    Flexible policies

    Always try to find companies that offer good northern lights policies, like “if you don’t see the northern lights, you can come the next night for free!”

    I don’t like companies that say “northern lights guarantee”. The northern lights are a natural attraction and are never guaranteed.

    Does the company I book with matter?

    Yes and no. Let’s look at Tromsø, which has an overwhelming number of companies offering northern lights tours. I always try to look for companies that are well established. I check their website, their reviews, and look at how well they promote the northern lights. For example, Guide Gunnar is famous in Tromsø for northern lights, and his website looks well established and like a safe choice. Same goes for companies like Chasing Lights, Pukka Travels, and Norwegian.travel. I also look at how quickly they are selling out and how far in advance they are selling out. I never go for the cheapest tour or the only one available at the last minute.

    Always book directly with the company and not through a third party agent.

    Have any tips?

    If you have any extra tips you want to add, share them in the comments below.

    My Northern Lights Guides

    Click here for my guide to seeing the northern lights.

    Click here for my northern lights log.

  • European Highways, Mo i Rana, Narvik, Northern Norway, Road-trips

    Drive it Yourself: E6 from Narvik to Mo i Rana

    Drive it Yourself: E6 from Narvik to Mo i Rana

    The E6 (European Highway 6) is the main highway that runs from Narvik to Mo i Rana. This portion of the drive takes place just above the Arctic Circle; we actually cross the Arctic Circle close to Mo i Rana. 

    There is a lot of World War II history along this road. From the famous Battle of Narvik to the attempted Arctic Railway, there are plenty of historic places to stop. 

    For the nature lovers, the Saltfjellet-Svartisen National Park is a delight to travel through.

    When we did this drive, I remember being surprised by how stunningly beautiful and untouched this part of Norway is. Also, there were so few settlements here. 

    Enjoy the drive!

    In this article...

    Downloadable Version of This Guide

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

    View at the Store

    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Information about facilities along the way

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the region & towns
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Facilities including supermarkets, toilets, petrol, hotels, cafes, restaurants with addresses.

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    Visit Our YouTube Channel

    The drive: Narvik to Mo i Rana on the E6

    Narvik

    This drive begins in Narvik. You can find a detailed overview of Narvik via our travel guide. 

    Narvik Travel Guide

    Fagernes

    Village

    Fagernes has historically been a singular farm, and it has been known for a few hundred years as the largest and wealthiest in the inner part of Ofoten. It was of central importance to the construction of the railway between Kiruna and Narvik; the wealthy farmer Statius Mosling was eager to have the railroad built. It is because of him that the Ofoten Line ends in Fagernes and not Narvik.

    Today Fagernes is an inner suburb of Narvik.

    Målselv Municipality

    Målselv (Sami name: Málatvuomi suohkan) is a municipality in Troms County. The area was settled by farmers from southern Norway from 1788 onwards. They came here because of the large, forested areas as well as the fertile land. The valley and the municipality take its name from the river Målselva, which is well known for its salmon. The river also forms the Målselv waterfall, which has been selected as Norway’s national waterfall. One of the rarest orchids in Europe, Lysiella oligantha, is found in Målselva.

    Skjomnes Memorial

    Memorial

    This memorial commemorates the naval battles that took place on the Ofotfjord. It particularly explains the fighting that took place on the Ankenes peninsula, and there is an information board about the dramatic events that took place here. The memorial is set in a nice location by the fjord, perfect to take a break.

    Ballangen

    Village

    Ballangen (Sami name: Bálák) used to be its own municipality until it was merged with Narvik in 2020.

    The area was known in the Viking Age; the first person to live here was Lodve Lange, who is mentioned in the Heimskringla as one of Olav Tryggvason’s most trusted warriors. He lived at Saltvik, the small village we just passed through.

    Ballangen saw growth in the 17th century thanks to mining, and in total over 36 mines have been operated in Ballangen. Minerals like copper, nickel, iron, zinc, manganese and lead have been mined. Ballangen has the dubious distinction of having Norway’s highest rate of sick leave from work, probably due to the high number of people who work in the mines there and related environmental effects.

    Here you’ll find a petrol station and supermarket. There’s also a camping ground here if you wish to spend the night. 

    Bognes - Skarberget

    Ferry

    This is the only ferry connection on the European Highway 6 remaining. The crossing time is only 25 minutes and there are 15 departures a day. There is a café on board as well as restrooms. Simply drive on; your rental car will likely have an AutoPASS, and the ferry staff will scan it – that’s how to pay for a ferry!

    You can view their schedule here. 

    Hamarøy Municipality

    Hamarøy (Sami name: Hábmer) is in Nordland County and the traditional district of Salten. The coat-of-arms is new; it depicts two swans as seen on an ancient rock carving seen in the municipality. The previous coat-of-arms was a lynx, which are common in the area.

    The municipality is dominated by small fjords, pine, birch, and aspen woodland. There are several nature reserves here as some as some beautiful mountains, including the very unique Hamarøyskaftet, which stands 612m (2008ft) high.

    Tourism in Hamarøy is linked with Knut Hamsen, the famous Norwegian author who lived in the area. The municipality also has a ferry connection to the famous Lofoten islands. Agriculture is still a dominaent industry, though the salmon slaughterhouse is also important to the municipality.

    Ulvsvåg

    Village

    Ulvsvåg (Sami name: Ulsváhke) is a small village with all the basic facilities. However, it has an old petrol (ESSO) station from 1946, which is very cute and well worth a quick stop. The name apparently comes from a Viking called Ulv who chose to settle here.

    Knut Hamsun Centre

    The Knut Hamsun Centre (Hamsunsenteret) is a museum dedicated to the life and work of author Knut Hamsun. The building was designed by American architect Steve Holl (who also designed the Kiasma art gallery in Helsinki) and opened in 2009. The exhibition is structured thematically and deals with topics like Knut Hamsun’s childhood in Hamarøy, his support of Germany during World War II, and modernism in his writing.

    Click here to visit their website.

    The centre is 15km off the E6. 

    Innhavet

    Settlement

    Innhavet is a small settlement located by the Sagfjorden. It has all the facilities needed for a town of its size, including a school, grocery store and hairdresser. This is also where you’ll find the Hamarøy War Museum, as the Germans had started building a train station would would be part of the Arctic Circle train line. They were using Soviet prisoners of war to construct the train. Remains of railway and prison camps are found in the area.

    Sørfold Municipality

    Sørfold is a municipality in Nordland Count and the traditional district of Salten. The coat-of-arms represents a silver wheel of a turbine in a hydroelectric power plant; the rivers in Sørfold contain many rapids and waterfalls that are partly harnessed to generate electricity. It has provided a major source of income for the community.

    Sørfold is about 120km (75 mi) north of the Arctic Circle and is home to Rago National Park, known for its wild nature with bare rock, streams and a pine forest.

    During World War II, the German army had a prisoner-of-war camp here housing Russian POWs who were building the Polarbanen (Arctic Railway) that was supposed to connect Fauske with Narvik. Some ruins of the camp and the railway can still be seen.

    Mørsvikbotn

    Village

    This is a small village with a school and a grocery shop. The area is known for a prison camp that used to stand here during World War II. The prison camp was used for Russian POWs who were here to build the Arctic Railway between Fauske and Narvik on the Polarbanen.

    Straumen

    Village

    Straumen is the administrative centre of Sørfold in Nordland. It has a population of around 890. The larger town of Fauske is about 12km away.

    Fauske Municipality

    Fauske (Sami name: Fuassko) is a municipality in Nordland and the traditional district of Salten. The name comes from a historic farm that used to be on the site, and the coat-of-arms represent a red reef knot on a grey background, showing Fauske as a centre of commerce and transportation.

    Several marble quarries can be found in Fauske, and the marble is exported to many countries. Marble from Fauske can be seen on the United Nations Headquarters in New York City, for example. Dolomite quarries are also here, and there is some agriculture.

    There are two large glaciers in Fauske – Blåmannsisen and Sulitjelma. Together, they cover 14% of the municipality. There are also parts of the Junkerdal National Park and the Sjunkhatten National Park in the municipality, plus several nature reserves. Fauske is located within the Arctic Circle.

    Fauske has a rich Sami history, and at Leivset is a protected Sami sacrificial site. Place names in the municipality come from the Sami people.

    Fauske

    Town

    Fauske is a town and main centre for Fauske Municipality. It has a population of 6,300 and is a fairly ‘new’ town; it was established in 1998. However, the name comes from an old farm that has been here for thousands of years. Fauske Church (from 1867) is built on the site of the farm.

    Fauske is a stop on the Nordlandsbanen, which runs between Trondheim and Bodø. Despite being above the Arctic Circle, Fauske does not experience the polar night – in December, the sun rises at 11am and sets before 12pm.

    Fauske is a great place to break up the drive. It has a shopping mall, petrol stations, grocery stores, and even a Scandic Hotel.

    At Fauske you’ll find a turn-off to Highway 80, which will take you all the way to Bodo. Click here to visit the travel guide page for Bodo. 

    Saltdal Municipality

    Saltdal (Sami name: Sálát) is a municipality in Nordland County and part of the traditional district of Salten. The coat-of-arms represents two gold-coloured rowan twigs on a red background, representing the nature and prevalence of rowan forests in the municipality.

    The main centre of the municipality is Rognan, which sits on the southern shore of the Saltdal Fjord. A major historical industry was boat building out of local timber. Today it is Nexans, a global fibre company. The company’s Rognan factory specialises in telecommunications, fibre optics and copper cables.

    Rognan

    Village

    Rognan is the main town for Saltdal municipality and is located at the innermost part of the Skjerstad fjord.

    The main industry here is the optical cable factory of Nexans. The Nordland Line between Trondheim and Bodø stops in Rognan, too. Rognan has the “Blodvei Museum”, a museum about the Nazi’s attempt to build a railway between Fauske and Narvik.

    Rognan has a grocery store, hotel, camping ground and petrol station. 

    Saltfjellet-Svartisen

    National Park

    This park is a national park that has the European Highway 6 and the Nordland Line running through it, which makes it pretty special. It is one of the largest and most varied national parks in Norway, with alpine mountains, glaciers, as well as forested valleys. In this stretch, we see the Saltfjellet mountain range.

    Many Sami cultural landmarks are within the park, too. Some of the oldest Sami monuments are from the 9th century and include sacrificial sites, animal graves and fences. Today’s domestic reindeer husbandry has its roots from the 16th century.

    The Saltfjellet Mountain Range has peaks reaching up to 1,751m (5,745ft) above sea level. In the park you will see lots of reindeer, but there are also wolverines and lynx. In the valleys are plenty of moose. Cabins are available to rent within the park if you wish to spend a longer period of time here.

    We drive through the eastern part of the park. 

    Rana Municipality

    Rana is a large municipality within the Helgeland traditional region. The main city is Mo i Rana, where this drive finishes today. The municipality is located just south of the Arctic Circle, and the municipality is famous for their numerous caves due to the limestone rock.

    Arctic Circle Centre

    Visitor Centre

    The Arctic Circle Centre is a fun little roadside stop to get some souvenirs, snacks, and take some photos of yourself on the Arctic Circle. The centre opened in 1990, the same time the E6 highway over the Saltfjellet mountains was completed.

    Eiterå

    Village

    Eiterå is a small farming settlement in Rana. It is one of the oldest areas in Rana municipality; the land was cleared for farming in 1723 and four farms were established into the areas. The farm buildings still stand today and are operated by the descendants of the original owners.

    Mo i Rana

    We have now arrived in Mo i Rana! You can find a detailed version of Mo i Rana over on our travel guide. 

    Mo i Rana Travel Guide

    Continue the drive

    The E6 between Mo i Rana and Trondheim

    After Mo i Rana, we continued south on the E6 to Trondheim on the last part of our incredible road-trip. 

    Mo i Rana to Trondheim

    Previous Drive

    Nordkjosbotn to Narvik

    Our previous drive began near Finnsnes and continued south on the E6 to Narvik. 

    Nordkjosbotn to Narvik

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Narvik, Northern Norway, Road-trips, World War II

    Drive it Yourself: E6 from Nordkjosbotn to Narvik

    Drive it Yourself: E6 from Nordkjosbotn to Narvik

    Welcome to the next part of our amazing drive from Trondheim to the Lofoten Islands! This drive was actually the turning point for us as we made our way back south to Trondheim. It was a little sad turning around; I just wanted to keep on going! Anyway, today we begin the first of three travel days on the E6 south to Trondheim.

    We actually began the drive in Finnsnes, a town across from the beautiful island of Senja. In the morning we ventured out to the Sami souvenir shop mentioned below before turning around and heading south on the E6.

    The drive close to Narvik is so beautiful! What I love is the amount of effort put into having rest areas with information about the Battle of Narvik, too. 

    Enjoy the drive!

    In this article...

    Downloadable Version of This Guide

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

    View at the Store

    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Information about facilities along the way

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the region & towns
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Facilities including supermarkets, toilets, petrol, hotels, cafes, restaurants with addresses.

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    Visit Our YouTube Channel

    The drive: E6 between Nordkjosbotn & Narvik

    Nordkjosbotn

    Village

    Nordkjosbotn (Sami name: Gárgán) is a small village located at the junction of two major highways – the E6 and the E8. The E8 leads towards Tromsø, while the E6 runs through the entire length of Norway. It is one of the major crossroads in Norway. In the village you’ll find supermarkets, petrol stations, and a small church.

    Balsfjord Municipality

    Balsfjord Municipality (Sami name: Báhccavuotna) is located close to Tromsø Municipality. It has a population of around 5,500 people and has a very low population density. It is surrounded by two major fjords – Malangen and Balsfjorden. The farmland here is very rich.

    The original inhabitants were the Sami people, but in the 1800s new settlers came from Finland. Eventually people moved up from southern Norway and settled in the area. Today there are very few traces of Sami culture. Petroglyphs have been found in the area that are 2,500 to 4,000 years old.

    The coat-of-arms represents a yellow plough on a red background, symbolising the fact that agriculture is the main source of income for municipality. The plough also symbolises that the municipality is at the northernmost border on which grain can be grown in Norway. Agriculture is mostly based on milk and meat production, and Balsfjord has the highest number of cattle, sheep and goats in Troms county.

    Målselv Municipality

    Målselv (Sami name: Málatvuomi suohkan) is a municipality in Troms County. The area was settled by farmers from southern Norway from 1788 onwards. They came here because of the large, forested areas as well as the fertile land. The valley and the municipality take its name from the river Målselva, which is well known for its salmon. The river also forms the Målselv waterfall, which has been selected as Norway’s national waterfall. One of the rarest orchids in Europe, Lysiella oligantha, is found in Målselva.

    Sami Shop Heia

    Shop

    One of my favourite places in the area is this Sami shop. Here you can buy authentic Sami handicrafts, but I love their cafe with some of the best coffee I’ve ever had – boiled over an open fire and very, very strong. 

    Øvre Divdal National Park

    National Park

    The Øvre Divdal National Park (Sami name: Dieváidvuovddi) is a 750km2 (290 sq mi) national park that opened in 1971. The intention behind establishing the park was to protect the inland valley and mountain area. The area is very popular with hiking today. Pine forests grow in the lower areas, while birch grows on the mountains. All the main predators are represented in the park, including the brown bear, wolf, wolverine and lynx. The wolverine are numerous in the area and it is also common to see reindeer (owned by Sami) and moose. The Arctic fox used to live in the area.

    The valley is the second driest in Norway, with an annual precipitation of 282mm (11.1 inches). There is no permafrost in the lower elevations of the park.

    Many Sami cultural monuments remain in the park, from pre-Christian sacrificial sites to reindeer fences. Norwegian settlement didn’t come to the area until the 18th and 19th centuries. The name Divdalen comes from the Sami word dievva, meaning ‘round and dry pile’.

    If you are considering spending some time here, I recommend spending at least one night here. Cabins are available for rent throughout the area.

    Click here to visit their official website. 

    Bardufoss

    Town

    Bardufoss (Sami name: Beardogorži) is the commercial centre for the Målselv municipality. It is located in the Målselvdalen valley near the confluence of the Barduelva and Målselva Rivers. The population is 2,600.

    Bardufoss is known in Norway for its association with the military. The Bardufoss Airport is both a civilian and military airport suitable for landing bomber aircraft, fighter jets and other heavy planes.

    Many people who live in Bardufoss are associated with the Armed Forces. The two military camps Rusta and Heggelia, with the common name Bardufoss Camp, constitute the military centre of gravity in Troms together with Maukstadmoen camp in Øverbygd and Setermoen camp in Bardu. Between Rusta and Heggelia camps is Istindportalen, which is a welfare building for the Armed Forces. It houses the welfare service and equipment for the soldiers as well as a cinema, sports hall, and kiosk for civilians.

    A street in Bardufoss is called General Fleischer’s Veg, in honour of Carl Gustav Fleischer. Carl Gustav Fleischer was a Norwegian general and the first land commander to win a victory against the Germans in World War II.

    The main forest here is made up of Downy birch, Scot’s pine, aspen and grey alder. However, Norway spruce has been planted in the plantations since the middle part of the 20th century for economic reasons (timber).

    The climate in Bardufoss is more continental, and it has reliable snow cover in the winter while the summers are warmer than Tromsø in the summer.

    Bardufoss has an upper secondary school with practical subjects including aeronautical subjects, construction subjects and electrical subjects. The Armed Forces College is located here with courses at the college and university levels.

    Battle of Narvik 1940 Memorial & General Carl Flesicher

    Located just off the E6 in Bardufoss is a memorial about the importance of the Bardufoss Airport in the Narvik Campaign in 1940. 

    This monument at Bardufoss is one of the six memorials erected by the Norwegian Army commemorating the first defeat for Nazi Germany during World War II.

    Bardufoss Airport was important during the Campaign of Narvik and was an important aim of the German advance northwards.

    The street is named in memory of Carl Fleischer, a General in the Norwegian Army at the outbreak of World War II. He was crucial to the early successes of the military in the Battle of Narvik and is credited with coordinating the French, Polish, British and Norwegian forces in recapturing Narvik on the 28th of May. Narvik was the first major allied infantry victory in the Second World War. Unfortunately, the Allies left Narvik due to the German Invasion of France on the 10th of May 1940 and without the support the Norwegians couldn’t hold Narvik. The Germans reoccupied Narvik on the 9th of June. General Fleischer followed King Haakon VII and the government to the United Kingdom.

    During his exile, he built up a Norwegian infantry brigade in Scotland, but he soon got at odds with the Norwegian political leadership due to his stubbornness. He became controversial in factions of the cabinet due to his support of British commando raids on the Norwegian coast. Likely because of his attitudes, he was bypassed when the government-in-exile recreated the post of commander in chief of the Norwegian Armed Forces. Instead, Fleischer was told he would go to Canada and be the commander there. Apart from the Royal Norwegian Air Forces training base near Toronto, which already had a leader, there were no Norwegian forces in Canada. Fleischer took this as an insult and humiliation, and he committed suicide on the 19th of December 1942.

    Still disputed today, it is thought one of the reasons for sending him to Canada was that he favoured coastal raids against Norway to hamper German use of the occupied nation. He also wanted to build substantial army forces abroad and employ them in operations against the German occupying forces, something that was in direct conflict with the more passive strategy favoured by the government in exile. When General Fleischer’s ashes were brought back to Norway after the war, the Labour government denied him a state funeral. When a monument was raised in Harstad, which was attended by the King, the same lack of respect was shown by the Labour Party.

    Bardu Municipality

    Bardu (Northern Sami: Bearddu suohkan) is a small municipality in Troms Country with a population of around 4,000. The Norwegian name of the municipality has been Norwegianised from the Sami name, which means “long and steep mountainside”. The coat-of-arms represent a black wolverine on a gold background, symbolising the rich wildlife in the area.

    Norway’s largest military garrison is located at Setermoen, the administrative centre for Bardu. The military is the municipality’s largest employer, and more than 1,000 young soldiers perform their duty service here every year.

    The world’s most northern zoo, Polar Park, is in the southern part of the municipality.

    Setermoen

    Village

    Setermoen is the main town in Bardu municipality and has a population of around 2,400. Military education was established here in 1898 because of its strategic location in a valley surrounded by mountains. Today it is one of the oldest military camps in Norway, and in many ways the Norwegian Armed Forces has shaped Setermoen and the community through its presence. About 1,000 soldiers and 500 soldiers are stationed here, making it the largest garrison in Norway.

    Click here to visit the Norwegian Army’s website about Setermoen (it has some great pictures!)

    Bardu Bygdetun

    Open-air museum

    Bardu Bygdetun is an open-air museum that contains buildings mostly from the 1860s, arranged to show a historic farm and village. The main building is a farmhouse from 1868, but another interesting building is the school room that was built in the early 20th century to accommodate the 8-10 school students in the district.

    The museum is only open in August, where you’ll find staff dressed up, coffee and food, and other events.

    Click here to visit their website (in Norwegian).

    Polar Park

    Animal Park

    Polar Park is an animal park that specialises in Nordic fauna, including Norway’s four largest predators: brown bear, lynx, wolf, and wolverine. Other animals include moose, muskox, red deer, and reindeer.

    The park is open every day and they also have accommodation options close by.

    Click here to visit their website (in English). 

    Lavangen Municipality

    Lavangen (Sami name: Loabák) is a tiny municipality in the southern part of Troms County; the population is only 1,000! The name comes from the fjord nearby and is from the Old Norse words meaning “leaf fjord”. The coat-of-arms represents gold-coloured birch leaves on a red background, representing how the area was settled by Norwegians, Sami and Kvens. Over 20% of the population have a Sami background; they are mostly descendants of Swedish reindeer herding Sami.

    General Fleischer Memorial & Lapphaugen

    Memorial

    Shortly after driving through the village of Fossbakken is a monument about the Battle of Narvik in 1940. It includes a memorial to General Carl Fleischer as well as some information about the fighting that took place in the area.

    This is the site where the German troops advancing north were stopped by Norwegian forces. The Germans never again resumed the offensive in Narvik. The Germans were held back by a blizzard, which made for zero visibility and they had to stop here at Lapphaugen.

    Gratangen Municipality

    Gratangen (Sami name: Rivttága suohkan) is a small municipality in the southern part of Troms County. The population in the municipality is only around 1,000, with the main village being Årstein.

    Gratangen was the site of the Battle of Gratangen, one of the first battles between the Germans and the Norwegians during the Narvik Campaign in 1940. The first attack was a huge failure as the German counter-attacked unprepared Norwegians, blunting the first Norwegian advance. This battle was, for Norwegians, their first serious lesson in the art of war. After this battle, the bitterness caused by the German ruthlessness – particularly the use of civilians as human shields – ensured that the Norwegian’s wouldn’t hesitate to fire on the enemy again.

    Øse

    Memorial

    This memorial is located at a site called Øse, which was the site where fighting took place between the 1st and 14th of May 1940. The site is a strategically important mountain pass that the Germans were using. This is where the Norwegians fought alongside the French for the first time in the war. The goal was to clear the valley and mountain of German positions. The German troops put up a strong defence, and the area was not recaptured until the 7th of May. During the attack, the soldiers witnessed German air raids on the red-cross-labelled hospital ship, Dronning Maud, in the nearby fjord, and 19 people were killed when the ship sunk.

    Nordland County

    We cross into Nordland county. 

    Narvik Municipality

    We have now crossed into Narvik municipality. We’ll talk more specifically about the town later. The municipality is fairly large and is located in the northernmost part of Nordland county. The population is around 22,000, and it has grown by 18% over the last 10 years. The coat-of-arms represents the mountain Stetind, a well-known mountain peak in the area.

    Most of the municipality is around the Ofotfjorden and the mountain peaks here reach as high as 1,700 metres (5,600ft). Forests cover the lower parts of the mountains, but near the summits snow can stay for most of the year. Narvik is the best-known area in northern Norway for alpine skiing; some of the slopes start on top of the mountains and end near the town centre. Wreck diving attracts divers to the area as there are a lot of wrecks in the harbour.

    The economy is still largely based around iron ore, but there are some high-tech businesses in Narvik including Natach and the largest research institute in Northern Norway, Norut Narvik. Narvik was one of the first areas in the world to be affected by the financial cricis of 2007-2008 as it had invested in Citigroup securities. Narvik lost the equivalent of $18 million USD in August 2007 and the Norwegian government refused to bail them out, so Narvik was forced to implement severe budget cuts.

    Bjerkvik

    Village

    Bjerkvik is a small village with a population of 1,159. It has the European Highway 6 and the European Highway 10 running through it, making it a major junction between Harstad, Narvik and Tromsø.

    During World War II, Bjerkvik was almost destroyed by the bombardment of gunfire from allied warships that caused significant civilian casualties. A landing was conducted in the area by Franco-British forces, pushing the German forces several miles away.

    During a NATO exercise in 1986, sixteen Norwegian soldiers died in an avalanche just east of the town. Later, in 2006, two grenadiers from the Telemark battalion died of a tank accident during another NATO exercise. The tank they operated went through the ice on a swamp, and only two of the four crew managed to get out alive. The Commission of Inquiry concluded that it was human failure on the part of the crew who operated the tank. Also, they found that the crew were using old maps and that the Armed Forces had been warned against moving off the road due to little snowfall and bad ice.

    Ofotfjord

    Fjord

    The Ofotfjord is an inlet of the Norwegian Sea and a fjord that Narvik is built around. At 78km (48 mi), the Ofotfjord is Norway’s 12th longest fjord. It has depths of up to 553m (1814ft), and the mountains around the fjord reach peaks of 1500m (4900ft).

    In the fjord are huge quantities of herring staying in the fjord in the winter. The fish attract a lot of whales, notably orca. Lobsters have been occasionally observed in the fjord, making them the northernmost lobsters in the world. Cod and coalfish is the most common fish species throughout the year, while mackerel is common between July and September. White-tailed eagles and Eurasian otters are common in and around the fjord.

    The Ofotfjord was the scene of several naval battles during the Battles of Narvik in World War II. The fjord today is very popular among divers, though some of the shipwrecks are declared war graves and thus you cannot dive to them. The German destroyer Georg Thiele is still visible from the railway as it sits in the Ofotfjord. See pictures here. 

    Hålogaland Bridge

    Bridge

    This bridge crosses the Rombaksfjorden and is the second-longest bridge span in Norway. It was built to shorten the drive on the E6 between Narvik and Bjkerkvik. Financing for the bridge came from a mix of state grants and toll roads. At the time of its construction, it was the longest suspension bridge within the Arctic Circle and was featured on the Science Channel show Building Giants. The bridge officially opened on 9 December 2018.

    Narvik

    We have now arrived in Narvik! A detailed overview of Narvik can be found on the travel guide section of The Hidden North. 

    Narvik Travel Guide

    Continue the drive

    The E6 between Narvik and Mo i Rana

    Continue on the E6 south to Mo i Rana. On this part of the drive, you cross the Arctic Circle!

    Narvik to Mo i Rana

    Previous Drive

    Senja Tourist Road

    See the previous day’s drive on the Senja Tourist Road. 

    Senja Tourist Road

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Andenes, Finnsnes, National Tourist Roads, Northern Norway, Road-trips, Senja

    Drive it Yourself: The Senja Tourist Road

    Drive it Yourself: Senja Tourist Road

    Senja is the second largest island in Norway (outside of Svalbard) and is located close to the Vesterålen archipelago. The fishing industry is dominant in Senja as the waters here are some of the richest in the country. Other important industries are graphite mining and potato and potato products.

    The northern coast of Senja has open sea, while the west coast faces the islands of Andøya and Krøttøya. The west coast is famous for its steep and rugged mountains coming out from the sea, while the eastern and southern parts are milder.

    Senja has earned the nickname “Norway in miniature” because of the islands diverse scenery that reflects almost the entire span of Norwegian nature. Senja is known for its natural environment across Norway.

    In this article...

    Downloadable Version of This Guide

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

    All of our digital guides come with interactive Google maps, making your trip much easier!

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    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
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    • Information about facilities along the way

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the region & towns
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Facilities including supermarkets, toilets, petrol, hotels, cafes, restaurants with addresses.

    Watch on Youtube

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    The drive: Senja Tourist Road

    Gryllefjord

    Village

    This tour begins at the ferry pier at Gryllefjord. We had taken the ferry across from Andenes that morning, which is very likely how you’ll be doing the drive. 

    Gryllefjord is a small fishing village in the Senja Municipality in Troms and Finnmark. Gryllefjord has been known as a fishing village since the 17th century, and from the late 19th century the village got new steam-powered fishing vessels to take part in cod fishing.  While fishing remained after the war, in recent years the place has experienced a sharp population decline. In the 1970s, there were 1,000 people living here, while in 2021 there were only 382.

    Senja Municipality

    Senja is a municipality in Troms County, with the main town being Finnsnes. The municipality consists of the entire island of Senja (Sami name: Sážžá), some smaller surrounding islands, and a small part of the mainland. The meaning of the name is unknown, but it might relate to the verb sundra, which means ‘tear’ or ‘split apart’, referring to the fjords that cut into the island.

    Senja wins the prize for my favourite coat of arms!

    Torsken

    Village

    Torksen used to be its own municipality, but from 2020 it was merged with Senja. Torksen, which translates to “the cod” in English, is close to the rich fisheries of Vesterålen and therefore fishing is the main industry. The name, however, comes from the rock formation overlooking the village, which previously looked a bit like a cod. Unfortunately, the rock formation has since collapsed.

    The fish-rich fjord has always provided a good life for people here, and Torsken attracted many fishermen. There is still fishing here, including a salmon and trout fish farm, a salmon slaughterhouse, and a herring and white fish farm. The village has a kindergarten; the school closed a few years ago and now students attend the school in Gryllefjord.

    Torsken Church

    Torsken Church is a historic church on Senja Island. The red, wooden church dates to 1784 and seats around 100 people. The first church on the site was mentioned in 1589, but it’s likely the church was built in 1400. Many believe it was built here by fishermen around that time and reflected the wealth and interest of this area. Additionally, it probably stood several metres to the north. In 1784, the old church was torn down and replaced with the present building, but they used many of the same materials. While the church is not a museum today, it’s still worth seeing as it is one of the few historic churches here.

    To get here, you’ll see a right-hand turn off the Fv86. The drive is short but stunningly beautiful; be sure to stop for photos. 

    Senja Troll

    Monument

    The Senja Troll was an experience centre and home to the Senja Troll, which was the world’s largest troll. Unfortunately, the troll burned down in 2019 and the park has since closed. There were shops, kids playgrounds, and a café here. You’ll see the entrance to the park, but it’s abandoned today. 

    Bergsbotn

    Viewpoint

    Bergsbotn is a scenic overlook of the fjord and surrounding mountain peaks. The platform is clearly marked with roadsides and has a parking lot. 

    Bergsbotn is also a fjord arm and settlement with a tiny population – around fifty people. It is located on the innermost part of the Bergsfjord.

    Skaland

    Village

    Skaland is a small town just a few minutes off the Fv862. It has a supermarket with restrooms, so it’s a great place to stop!

    Tungeneset

    Scenic Viewpoint

    Tungeneset is one of the most scenic stops on the Senja Tourist Road. There is a walkway that takes you along the shoreline towards a view of the mountain Oksen (with the sharp peaks), also known as ‘The Devil’s Jaw’, as well as a lovely view out to the North Sea.

    Ersfjord Beach

    Beach

    Ersfjord is a picturesque beach area overlooking the peaks of Oksen and the Ersfjord. The area used to be very isolated, but since 2004 it has had a tunnel connection and is now featured as part of the Senja Tourist Road. Around 40 people live here today.

    Ersfjord is known for having one of Norway’s most expensive road toilets. Called Gulldassen, the toilet cost 3.75 million NOK to build. The toilet was built in 2014. Luckily, the toilet was praised for its design when it completed, and it has become something of an attraction. Click here to see an article (in Norwegian) about the toilet. 

    When we visited there was a school group out fishing. They offered us some of their cod, but we had no way to take it with us!

    Ersfjord is an excellent place to observe the northern lights in winter, or in summer you can swim here under the midnight sun.

    Senjahopen and Mefjordvær

    Village

    With a population of 250, Senjahopen is one of the larger villages on the island Senja. Until the tunnel was completed in 2004, Senjahopen was very isolated. Even though Skaland is 10km (6 mi) away, it took over an hour to drive. Now, as we saw, it takes about 15 minutes. The village is one of the most important fishing villages in Senja thanks to its proximity to the fishing grounds. It is also where you’ll find a lot of the tourist activities. Thanks to its location on Hopsvatnet, a bay in the Mefjorden, Senjahopen is sheltered from the weather and wind.

    About 3km (2 mi) past Senjahopen is Mefjordvær, a historic fishing village. 

    Botnhamn

    Village

    Botnhamn is a small village in Senja with a population of around 300. The village is historic; it is mentioned in 1370 as a farm, and archaeological discoveries from the Stone Age, Iron Age and Middle Ages indicate that this area has been populated for a long time.

    The most known discovery is the Silver Treasure of Botnhamn from around 1000AD. It’s a necklace and the only known one to have a rune inscription on it. The rune inscription reads “We went to Frisland and fought the warriors, and we shared the booty between us”. The treasure is on display at the Tromsø Museum.

    From Botnhamn you can take a ferry to the island of Kvaløya, which neighbours the city of Tromsø – it’s a lot quicker than driving to Finnsnes first.

    Husøy

    Village

    Husøy is a small village located on the entirety of the island of Husøy, which is in the middle of the Øyfjorden. Husøy is well-known in Norway due to its picturesque setting. The population is about 285 and the main industry here is fishing. Up until a few decades ago the only access to the island was by boat, but now there is a tunnel and 300m long road connecting the island to the mainland.

    Because Husøy is exposed to bad winds coming in from the sea, the houses on the island have to be roped to the ground. People chose to settle here because of the close proximity to the fisheries as well as the lack of risk of landslides.

    Note – if you want to explore the island, park your car off the island. There is nowhere to park on the island. 

    Gibostad

    Village

    Gibostad is a historic village on the island Senja. Gibostad was originally the centre for the municipality, before it was replaced by Finnsnes in the 1960s. Gibostad is located at the narrowest point that separates Senja from the mainland, and for a long time it was projected to become the main centre of Northern Norway. However, in 1794 Tromsø was chosen instead.

    Gibostad was originally a Hurtigruten port of call, and it was one of the first ports on the ship way back in 1838 (Hurtigruten as we know it today is from 1893, but its predecessor was operating a service in Northern Norway throughout the 19th century). This service was of crucial importance to the development of the town. A commercial centre grew in Gibostad, and in the summer there was a huge market here. Eventually everything was moved to Finnsnes, and since then Gibostad has been a small village.

    Some of the old buildings from Gibostad have been preserved, but sadly many were torn town. Ever since the 1990s there has been a renewed interest in preserving Gibostad, and a market is arranged once a year like the old times.

    Senja’s main high school is located at Gibostad, and the schools specialises in agricultural studies.

    Finnsnes

    Finnsnes is the main town for the Senja Municipality. It is not located on the island but is instead on the mainland – separated from Senja by the Gisundet straight. The Gisund Bridge connects Finnsnes to the outer suburbs Silsand and Laukhella on Senja island. The town has all the services you’d expect for a town this size, including schools, a hospital, etc.

    Finnsnes is a modern town. Over the last 100 years it has seen rapid development, largely thanks to the introduction of a Hurtigruten stop as well as increase in industry.  Finnsnes is today an important centre for transportation for Senja both on land and sea. Fishing and agriculture are still important industries, with major companies for fish processing located here. Fish farming is growing in importance.

    Finnsnes is often described as the ‘Gateway to Senja’ thanks to its proximity to the island. While Senja remains far more traditional and less developed, Finnsnes is a good alternative for staying while exploring Senja. While not as scenic as Senja, it has shopping malls, restaurants, hotels, and multiple transportation connections, making it a good place to base yourself.

    Finnsnes Travel Guide

    Continue the drive

    The E6 between Nordkjosbotn & Narvik

    Time to turn around and begin the journey south! We join with the E6 and continue south to Narvik. 

    Nordkjosbotn to Narvik

    Previous Drive

    Andøya Tourist Road

    See the previous day’s drive on the Andøya Tourist Road.

    Andøya Tourist Road

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Andenes, Harstad, National Tourist Roads, Northern Norway, Road-trips, Sortland

    Drive it Yourself: Harstad to Andenes on the Andøya Tourist Road

    Drive it Yourself: Harstad to Andenes on the Andøya Tourist Road

    This drive doesn’t have to begin in Harstad. The Andøya Tourist Road is close to the Lofoten Tourist Road, so you can easily do this from Svolvær, for example. 

    The Andøya Tourist Road is one of Norway’s most remote tourist roads, and in many ways, it feels like one of the country’s best-kept secrets. Located close to the far more famous Lofoten Islands, this road takes along the rough coastline past some of the most stunning scenery Norway has to offer.

    Andøya Island (explained in detail later in this driving guide) is a unique island. It is the only place on the Norwegian mainland where dinosaur fossils have been found, it is famous for its Arctic cloudberries, and whales, puffins and seals can be seen for large parts of the year.

    While the tourist road itself is short, the drive is well worth the time it takes to get to this remote part of the world.

    In this article...

    Downloadable Version of This Guide

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

    View at the Store

    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Information about facilities along the way

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the region & towns
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Facilities including supermarkets, toilets, petrol, hotels, cafes, restaurants with addresses.

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    Visit Our YouTube Channel

    The drive: Harstad to Andenes

    Harstad

    Harstad is the second largest city in Troms (after Tromsø). It’s a good place to spend the night thanks to its large selection of hotels and restaurants. The YouTube video begins in Harstad.

    For information about Harstad, head to the travel guide  page. 

    Harstad Travel Guide

    Sørvik

    Village

    Sørvik is a small village located close to Harstad. The village has a historical museum that opens in the summer. They’ve collected log buildings from around Harstad and recreated the museum like an old farm and village. The museum aims to show the Norwegian home and lifestyle in the 19th and early 20th century, though some of the architecture dates back to before the 19th century.

    Sandtorg

    Village

    Sandtorg is a small village with a population of around 300. It is an old settlement; there has been a trading post here since the 13th century. Sandtorg grew in importance in the 18th century when pilot services were added for foreign and local ships. The trading post lasted until 1945, when the Norwegian Amy’s communication services took over operations after German occupation. The army returned the post to civilian use in the 1990s and today the trading post still stands with a hotel and restaurant.

    In 2014, three coins from the Middle Ages and two pieces of payment silver dating to the Viking times were found here. The two coins were minted under Eirik Magnusson and date to 1285-1290. The third coin is from 1483-1513. In 2020, it was concluded that Sandtorg is the only Viking Age trading place in Northern Norway.

    You can spend the night at Sandtorgholmen Hotel, which is built on the site that has been used as the trading post since the 19th century. The original site was further north. Prices start at around 1200 NOK for a standard room for one night.

    You can visit the hotel website here: https://www.sandtorgholmen.no/?lang=en

    Tjeldsund County

    Tjeldsund Municipality

    Tjeldsund (Sami name: Dielddanuorri) is a municipality that’s part of the Ofoten traditional district and the Central Hålogaland district. The main village in the municipality is Evenskjer.  The main education and training centre for Norway’s firemen, Norges Brannskole, is in Fjelldal in Tjeldsund. A naval base is also located here at Ramsund. Besides that, there is some small industry including farming, fishing, banking, and transport.

    Kongsvik

    Village

    Kongsvika is a small village with around 300 people living there. It has cabins for rental and a petrol station. 

    Nordland County

    Nordland County

    Nordland County is located along the north-western coast of the Scandinavian peninsula. Due to its huge size and low population, it is one of the least polluted areas in Europe. The county is defined by steep mountains near the sea and a lowland area between the mountains and the sea. The Arctic Circle cuts through the county.

    Troms County

    Troms County

    We cross back into Troms County. 

    Troms County existed up until 1 January 2020, when it was merged with Finnmark County to make Troms og Finnmark. However, at time of writing, there are rumours the two will split up. So, I’m going to provide information just about Troms.

    The area has been settled since the Stone Age, and the first of the current ethnic groups to settle in the county were the Sami people. Archaeological evidence shows that a Norse-based culture existed here in the Late Roman Iron Age (200-400AD).

    The Norse settled along the coast and some of the larger fjords, while the Sami lived in some fjord areas and inland. The southern part of Troms was a petty kingdom in the Viking Age. Trondenes (today’s Harstad) was an important Viking power centre and gathering place.

    Troms takes its name from the island Tromsøya where the city Tromsø is located. The area is in the northern part of the Scandinavian peninsula, and due to its low population and distance from high density European cities, it is one of the least polluted areas in Europe.

    With its latitude of nearly 70 degrees north, the area has cool, short summers but mild winters due to the Gulf Stream. The area experiences the midnight sun between May and July and then the polar night between November and January.

    Outside of the big cities, fishing remains an important industry and there are several important fishing ports throughout the county. Tromsø is the commercial centre for the northern part of the county, while Harstad is the centre for the southern part of the county.

    Kvæfjord Municipality

    Kvæfjord (Sami: Giehtavuotna) is in the traditional region of Central Hålogaland with the main village being Borkenes. The municipality is known for its agriculture and farming, with the quality of the strawberries being particularly famous.

    The long hours of daylight and low summer temperatures are great for strawberries, making them more tasteful than berries grown in warmer climates. Potatoes are also particularly well known from this region, and the fjords are known for their good herring. Chicken farming for egg production and pig farming are also important.

    Kvæfjord is a historic region, and burial mounds and items found during excavations indicate that there have been settlements here since the Iron Age. One of the oldest farms, Vebostad, has traces from 300BC. Many of the names in the area have Iron Age and Viking Age origin. For example, Vebostad has ‘ve’ in it, which is an old word meaning sanctuary, residence, and pagan sacrificial site. Another farm, Hundstad, may be connected to the famous Viking Tore Hund.

    Sami people have lived in Kvæfjord for a very long time, but the historical information is scattered. It is known that the Sami lived along the fjords, particularly Austerfjord, as well as in the inland areas. In the Storjord area are traces of Sami settlement from the 17th to 19th centuries.

    Langvassbukta

    Village

    Kvæfjord (Sami: Giehtavuotna) is in the traditional region of Central Hålogaland with the main village being Borkenes. The municipality is known for its agriculture and farming, with the quality of the strawberries being particularly famous.

    The long hours of daylight and low summer temperatures are great for strawberries, making them more tasteful than berries grown in warmer climates. Potatoes are also particularly well known from this region, and the fjords are known for their good herring. Chicken farming for egg production and pig farming are also important.

    Kvæfjord is a historic region, and burial mounds and items found during excavations indicate that there have been settlements here since the Iron Age. One of the oldest farms, Vebostad, has traces from 300BC. Many of the names in the area have Iron Age and Viking Age origin. For example, Vebostad has ‘ve’ in it, which is an old word meaning sanctuary, residence, and pagan sacrificial site. Another farm, Hundstad, may be connected to the famous Viking Tore Hund.

    Sami people have lived in Kvæfjord for a very long time, but the historical information is scattered. It is known that the Sami lived along the fjords, particularly Austerfjord, as well as in the inland areas. In the Storjord area are traces of Sami settlement from the 17th to 19th centuries.

    Sortland Municipality

    Sortland (Sami name: Suortá) Municipality is part of the traditional region of Vesterålen. It is located in the southern part of Vesterålen on the islands Langøya and Hinnøya, and the municipality surrounds the inner part of the Eidsfjorden and the Sortland Strait. The midnight sun occurs from 23 May to 23 July, while the polar night is from 30 November to 12 January. The region is popular for observing the northern lights.

    History

    The region is mentioned in the Viking Sagas, where it is written as the home of Karle and Gunnstein, who took part in Tore Hund’s campaign against King Olav. The first church is mentioned in written sources in 1370.

    Yacht skipper Søren Mørch from Bergen settled here and started a yacht trade in 1659. This is the year Sortland is considered to be founded.

    Industry

    Sortland is home to the Coast Guard Base in Norway. Tourism is also important, as is agriculture. Parts of the municipality were known in the latter half of the 19th century as one of Norway’s best regions for herring. The herring adventure here helped lay the foundation or the establishment of Hurtigruten. While the herring aren’t as plentiful as back then, there are still fishing in Sortland.

    Sami Activity

    Sortland has a small Sami population. A Sami family runs reindeer herding on Hinnøya. There used to be a reindeer husbandry, but it was closed in 1972. Some place names in the region come from Sami words.

    Culture

    Sortland is regarded as one of the best music communities in Norway and the local band Madrugada has been one of the best in the country. The Sortland Jazz Festival takes place every autumn, and some of the world’s leading jazz musicians have taken part.

    Sortland is the only municipality in Vesterålen that has seen a stable increase in the popular over the past 25 years.

    Sortland

    If you want to go into Sortland, you’ll take the Sortland Bridge across the town (instead of continuing straight towards Andøya). You come to this junction as you are crossing through the village Strand (you see Sortland across the strait and you see the massive bridge well in advance). 

    Sortland has a population of around 5,500 and is the largest town and commercial centre in Vesterålen.

    As you drive through Sortland, you will notice many of the buildings are painted blue. The local artist Bjørn Elvenes came up with the idea to bring colour into the city and attract tourists too. The idea wasn’t too popular amongst the locals, but it was adopted as a millennium project by the city. However, it didn’t go very well. Elvenes wanted more artistic control in creating Sortland into a 3D-like painting, while the architects wanted to use colour to highlight the features of the buildings.

    Elvenes fell out with the council and began to cooperate with the buildings directly, while others chose the councils plans. Because of that, the blue buildings are not as unified as they could be. Not all the buildings are blue, but enough of them are that you’ll wonder what’s going on.

    Sortland has a massive shopping mall, Sortland Storsenter, where you’ll be able to buy groceries, alcohol, clothing, cosmetics, etc. If you need anything, I recommend stopping here as Andenes doesn’t have so much. There are also cafes, restaurants, takeaway and petrol stations in Sortland. 

    Sortland Travel Guide

    Andøy Municipality

    Andøy is the northernmost municipality in Nordland, and forms part of the Vesterålen archipelago. The population of Andøya has decreased by 6.8% over the last ten years, and the main settlement is Andenes. The meaning of Andøy is unknown, though the last element means ‘island’.

    The municipality is spread across the island of Andøya and Hinnøya. The mid-section has bogs and marshes known for their Arctic cloudberries, and there are numerous lakes here too. The island is the only place in continental Norway where coal and fossils from dinosaurs are found. The Forfjorddalen nature reserve has some of the oldest pine trees in Scandinavia – some are more than 700 years old. Andøys is also the place where Egga, the edge of the continental shelf, is closest to the land.

    The municipality has a strong connection to aviation, with the 333 Squadron of the Air Force being stationed at Andøya Airport. The Andøya Space Centre is involved in international cooperation of the polar atmosphere and the northern lights. Andøya Airport is proposed to be closed by 2025, with air traffic moving to Evenes Airport.

    The fishing industry is still important to the municipality, and Andenes is one of the country’s largest fishing harbours and one of Northern Europe’s largest port facilities.

    Forfjord

    Village

    The name of the village is Forfjord, which comes from the name of the fjord the village is built around. The nature reserve here has the oldest living pine trees in Northern Europe, with some of them dating back to 830 AD. It is assumed that the forest was a source of timber and tar for Viking ships, and there are settlements and burial sites that are yet to be excavated.

    A famous person in Norwegian exploration came from Forfjord: Hans Jørgen Furfjord. He led the first expedition to stay the winter on Svalbard to hunt silver foxes, walruses, seals and polar bears. Items from his expeditions are on display in museums in Tromsø and Svalbard. Hans also kept diaries describing his adventures, including European monarchs visiting, his being imprisoned by British soldiers for not supplying them for free, barely surviving polar bear encounters, and surviving not freezing to death. He died at the age of 81 at his home in Forfjord. Some of his children emigrated to Canada and the United States, where some of his descendants live today. Some remain in Forfjord.  

    Risøyhamn

    Village

    Risøyhamn is a small village located on the island Andøya. It has a population of 216 and is serviced by the Hurtigruten twice a day – if you take the Hurtigruten southbound you see the village around 11:30am. There are many older buildings in Risøyhamn, including Gammelg ården from the early 18th century. There is a small open-air museum here with five buildings. Click here to view a website about the buildings (in Norwegian only). 

    Andøya Tourist Road

    Bjørnskinn

    Village

    Bjørnskinn is a small settlement with the Bjørnskinn church. The church was in use in 1589, but it was not new then. The church was replaced in 1740 and again in 1885.

    Bukkekjerka

    Rest Stop

    Bukkekjerka is a rest stop and rock formation that was historically a Sami sacrificial site. The word Bukkekjerka, which is a Sami word, refers to crevice (bohki) and rock (giergie). Several tracks lead to the top of the rock, where there is a small bench.

     

    There used to be a fishing village here called Børvågen that was very active during the herring fisheries period, but the town was reduced to rubble in a huge storm in 1879. Remains of Iron Age buildings, burial mounds and boat landings have been found in the area.

     

    There are toilets here, too. They are open from mid-May until the end of September. The rest area won an architecture design prize in 2018.

    Nordmela

    Village

    Nordmela is a fishing village with about 120 inhabitants. There are written sources that people have lived here since the 16th century, but there are findings from the Stone Age in the area. The area used to be a stronger fishing village, but one of the main companies went bankrupt in 2009. The local school closed down in 2008.

    Måtinden

    Mountain

    Måtinden is 408m (2000ft) high and the walking path is about 4km each way. The hike is not demanding, but some sections are a little steep.

    Read more about the mountain by clicking here. 

    Bleik

    Village

    Bleik is a small fishing village with a population of around 460. Bleik has one of the longest beaches in Norway, and it’s believed that’s where the village gets its name (bleik = white/pale). It’s believed people have lived here for a very long time, as an old farm mound can be traced back to 600AD and has a depth of 6 metres.

    15km offshore from the beach is the Bleik Canyon, a deep canyon with depths of up to 3000m. It’s common to see sperm whales here, which is why Andøya is known for its whale safaris.

    There is a triangle shaped island off the coast called Bleiksøya, and that’s where you can see puffins – it is the largest resort for puffins in Norway. These puffins are highly endangered due to the white-tailed eagle and the golden eagle, which are also often spotted here. The puffins are here from mid-April until mid-August, and puffin safaris can be taken from Bleik, which is what we did!

    Andøya Space

    Space centre

    Shortly after Bleik you’ll pass a large complex on your left; this is Andøya Space. It’s a rocket launch site, rocket range and space port. Over 1,200 sounding and sub-orbital rockets of various configurations have been launched from the site. The centre is also used for observing and studying the northern lights. Andøya Space has worked with the likes of ESA, NASA, JAXA and national and international universities.

    Andenes

    Andenes is a small fishing community located on the top of Andøya. The village is known as being one of the best places to set off on a whale safari, and it has a direct ferry connection to the famous Senja Island, which we will be taking the following day.

    You can read all about Andenes on the travel guide section of the website. 

    Andenes Travel Guide

    Continue the drive

    Senja Tourist Road

    It is an absolute must to combine the Andøya Tourist Road with the Senja Tourist Road!

    Senja Tourist Road

    Previous Drive

    The Lofoten Islands Part 2: Svolvær to Harstad

    See the previous day’s drive through the Lofoten Islands. 

    Lofoten Islands Part Two

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!