History

  • History, Vadsø

    The History of Vadsø, the Kven Capital of Norway

    The History of Vadsø

    Located in the far north-east of Norway, Vadsø is a small town with a surprisingly complex and fascinating history. The town is located on the Varanger peninsula, close to the Russian border, and for hundreds of years has seen settlement from Sami, Kven and Norwegian populations due to the rich fishing and nearby trade.

    If you are road-tripping in Northern Norway, Vadsø is located along the Varanger Tourist Road, one of the most unique tourist roads in the country. Otherwise, you will likely visit Vadsø when sailing on the coastal ferry. In any case, I really love Vadsø and think it’s a highlight in Northern Norway. So, here’s my overview of the areas history to help you understand why it’s so unique. 

    The History of Vadsø

    Norway's Coastal Ferry

    Vadsø is a port of call of Norway’s coastal ferry. Find my guide for the coastal ferry by clicking the link below. 

    Norway's Coastal Ferry
    Vadsø Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Be sure to read my detailed travel guide for Vadsø, including practical information and things to do. 

    Earliest Settlement

    People have lived in the area for thousands of years. Excavations have shown that there were settlements in the area as long as 9,000 years ago. It’s believed that the first people in the area were the Sami people. They were a semi-nomadic people, relying on fishing, reindeer herding, and hunting.

    Early Migration of Norwegian & Kven People

    Starting in the late medieval period, Norwegians and Finnish immigrants, later known as Kvens, began to settle in the area. Vadsø developed as a cultural meeting point for different groups. Most Norwegians came over in the 16th century. They settled on the island of Vadsøya thanks to the close proximity to the fisheries. Vadsøya is separated from the mainland by a 70 metre wide sound that could be walked across at low tide; this is still possible today. The village even had a church on the island.

    Vadsøya Cultural Heritage Trail

    On the island Vadsøya there is a 1.8km long cultural heritage trail, with interesting information on ancient sites from the Middle Ages in Vadsø, the cemetery, the airship masts, and other war memorials.

    Pomor Trade

    Vadsø benefited from trade with Russian merchants, known as Pomors. This trade flourished in the 17th and 18th centuries. The Russians brought goods like grain in exchange for fish and other local products.

    You can read my detailed overview of the Pomor Trade by clicking the link below. 

    Pomor Trade

    Moving the Settlement

    Vadsø Church in the 1930s. Photo by Anders Beer Wilse. Source: Digitalt Museum

    As the settlement grew, it was decided to move Vadsø over onto the Varanger peninsula. In 1717, the church was moved over to the mainland. The current church is the fourth church to be in Vadsø. Vadsø continued to grow in the 19th century, and was officially designated as a municipality in 1839. Throughout the 19th century, fishing remained an important part of the local economy, complemented by trade and shipping. Svend Foyn’s first whale station was located on Vadsøya. In 1875, 62% of the population was Finnish speaking, and Vadsø was considered the capital Kven city in Norway. The Finnish language is still spoken by many, and Finnish traditions are still done alongside the Norwegian ones.

    Kven Immigration

    Kvenbyen (Kven City) in Vadsø. Photo by Sven Worm-Petersen. Taken 1890-1910. Source: Digitalt Museum

    The 19th century saw significant immigration from Finland due to famine and political unrest. This influx of Kvens significantly influenced the towns culture and demographics. The town has become known as the ‘Kven capital’.

    The Kven People

    “Kven” is the name given to people of Finnish descent in Northern Norway. The present-day Kven population descends from several waves of settlement and immigration that took place in the 18th and 19th centuries. The first wave was to Troms and West Finnmark, although the largest wave of immigration was to East Finnmark and Vadsø in particular. The Kven culture is stronger in West Finnmark, but there are several buildings and remains in the east too.

     

    Source: Nord Norge travel site linked below

    The Oldest Building

    The oldest building in Vadsø is Tuomainegården, a traditional Finnish house. The house is from 1851 and is an example of a ‘Varanger House’, which is a type of house with several variants developed in East Finnmark with the influence of neighbouring countries and the many ethnic groups residing here. The house and outhouse are joined by a corridor, so you could reach the outhouse without having to go out into bad weather. The Finns also brought the sauna with them when they came, and the sauna in this building has been preserved.

    Learn more about the house by clicking here. 

    Arctic Exploration

    Vadsø mast. Photo by Anders Beer Wilse. Taken in 1928. Source: Digitalt Museum.

    Near the Hurtigruten pier in Vadsø stands a 60-meter-tall mast built in 1926 by Italian aviation engineer Umberto Nobile. It served as a mooring mast for the airships Norge in 1926 and Italia in 1928. This structure symbolizes a significant chapter in Norwegian and European polar exploration. Both airships launched from Vadsø to Ny-Ålesund on Svalbard before embarking on their historic North Pole expeditions.

    Renowned Norwegian polar explorer Roald Amundsen (1872–1928), already celebrated for his Arctic and Antarctic expeditions, believed airships were ideal for exploring uncharted Arctic regions. His initial attempt in 1922, using two airships from Tromsø, ended in crashes, though the pilots were rescued.

    In 1926, Amundsen teamed up with American millionaire Lincoln Ellsworth for a new Arctic expedition aboard the airship Norge. Designed and piloted by Nobile, the airship departed from Rome and traveled via Oslo, Leningrad, and Vadsø, crossing the Barents Sea to Ny-Ålesund. On May 11, 1926, the expedition reached the North Pole and landed in Teller, Alaska, on May 14. The crew returned to Norway as celebrated heroes.

    World War II

    Vadsø after bombing in August 1944

    Vadsø, like much of Finnmark, was heavily affected by the German occupation during World War II. Vadsø was at times the headquarters for approximately 2,000 German troops. The centre of the town was badly damaged when the Allies bombed the town in 1944. Despite the bombings, 1/3 of the towns buildings were left standing. In Vadsø, there are more preserved pre-war buildings than anywhere else in Finnmark County.

    The town was bombed several times by Soviet forces due to its strategic location. At the end of the war, it was almost entirely destroyed by the German scorched-earth retreat in 1944.

    Vadsø was completely rebuilt after the war, with modern architecture replacing older wooden buildings.

    Modern Times

    While fishing remains important for the community, the economy has diversified to include public administration, trade, and tourism. The town is also known for promoting its diverse cultural heritage, particularly the contributions of the Sami and the Kvens.

    Also, Vadsø’s location near the Barents Sea places it within the broader context of Arctic geopolitics and environmental concerns.

    Vadsø’s history reflects resilience and adaptation in a challenging Arctic environment, with a rich blend of cultures and historic events shaping its identity today.

    Norway's Coastal Ferry

    Vadsø is a port of call of Norway’s coastal ferry. Find my guide for the coastal ferry by clicking the link below. 

    Norway's Coastal Ferry
    Vadsø Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Be sure to read my detailed travel guide for Uppsala, including practical information and things to do. 

  • History, Sweden, Uppsala

    The History of Uppsala – Sweden’s Historic Centre

    The History of Uppsala

    Uppsala, one of Sweden’s oldest and most culturally significant cities, holds a unique place in Scandinavian history. Located about 70km north of Stockholm, Uppsala has been a center for religious, political, and academic life in Sweden for over a thousand years. Known originally as a Viking-era settlement and religious center, it became the heart of Norse pagan worship, with Old Uppsala housing temples dedicated to gods like Thor, Odin, and Frey.

    With the rise of Christianity in the 12th century, Uppsala transformed into an important Christian hub, becoming the seat of the Archbishop and establishing itself as a symbol of Sweden’s emerging national identity. In the 15th century, Uppsala University was founded, making it Scandinavia’s oldest university and solidifying the city’s role as an intellectual and cultural centre. Today, Uppsala blends its rich past with a vibrant modern identity, known for its historical landmarks like the Uppsala Cathedral and its ongoing contributions to education and science. The city remains a fascinating destination to explore the layered history of Sweden, from its Viking roots to its academic and religious heritage.

    I remember on my first-ever trip to Sweden with my then-boyfriend (now husband), I wanted to take a day-trip to Uppsala from Stockholm because of the burial mounds there – I was interested in Norse mythology at the time. 

    If you’re in Stockholm I highly recommend including a day-trip to Uppsala on your journey. It’s very easy to do by train. And before you go, familiarise yourself with the history of Uppsala. Here’s my guide to the history of Uppsala, from the perspective of travelling to the region.

    The History of Uppsala

    Uppsala Travel Guide
    Sweden Travel Guide

    Be sure to read my detailed travel guide for Uppsala, including practical information and things to do. 

    Early History of Uppsala

    The first peoples came to Uppsala around 5,000BC, when the land rose following the melting of the ice from the last ice age. Originally, Uppsala was a bay, but now the area is inland. While the area around Uppsala was mentioned in the mythological Ynglinga Saga, the first historic mention of Uppsala is in the year 98.

    The Early Importance of Uppsala

    During the Iron Age, sometimes called the ‘Vendel Period’ in Swedish history, considerable wealth was built up around Gamla Uppsala from mining and trade. The settlement wasn’t where Uppsala is today, rather it was located where the region “Gamla Uppsala” is today – approximately 5km (3 miles) north of the current Uppsala.

    Gamla Uppsala was a central point for the prehistoric power structure that would later develop into Sweden as a country.

    The site was a former bay, but during the Viking Age as the land was rising, the bay somewhat disappeared. 

    The Royal Mounds

    It was during this period that the Royal Mounds were erected. The mounds are three large barrows located in the area today called Gamla Uppsala (Old Uppsala). According to folklore, the three gods Thor, Odin and Freyr would be at rest at the barrows. Originally there was also a temple here, but it’s believed that it was destroyed at the time when Christianity came to Sweden. The mounds are Sweden’s oldest national symbols. One of the mounds was excavated in the late 19th century and in the mound were remains of a man and animals, probably for food for the journey. Remains of a warriors equipment were also found.

    Medieval Scandinavians considered Gamla Uppsala to be one of the most important locations in Scandinavia. The Danish chronicler Saxo Grammaticus believed Odin resided in Gamla Uppsala. The Icelandic historian Snorri Sturlason had Odin reside at nearby Fornsigtuna, whereas the god Freyr lived at Gamla Uppsala. Saxo Grammaticus adds that Freyr began he human sacrifices at Gamla Uppsala. Sacrifices in Gamla Uppsala were also described by Adam of Bremen at the Uppsala temple. 

    It’s not quite known where the permanent settlement was. It’s believed that from the end of the Viking Age, the site was probably closest to the port. Only during the 12th century is evidence of a city properly traceable. In written documents, Uppsala is mentioned for the first time in Sweden’s oldest manuscript from 1164, 

    The Temple of Uppsala

    The Temple of Uppsala is generally regarded to have been the religious centre of Scandinavia in pre-Christian times. There are somewhat conflicting reports about the temple and its use, for example some historians believe it was used by Christians (some of the documented sacrifices there resemble Christian practices), while others believe it to be pagan. 

    The Temple was eventually destroyed, though it’s not known when. There are different opinions on where the Temple was, though many believe it was close to where Gamla Uppsala Church was built. 

    Gamla Uppsala Archaeological Site

    Today the area generally regarded to be the religious centre of Scandinavia is called the Gamla Uppsala archaeological site. This is where you’ll find the burial mounds as well as large areas of archaeological importnace – for example, up to 3,000 graves are believed to be here. 

    This was an important place during the period of Norse mythology but was also where a major general assembly called “The Thing of All Swedes” took place from prehistoric times until the end of the Viking Age. This is also where the Temple was believed to be. 

    If you are interested in learning more about the discoveries made here, you can visit the Gamla Uppsala Museum (click here for museum website). 

    Christianisation of Uppsala

    It’s believed that Uppsala was the last pre-Christian, Norse Germanic stronghold in Scandinavia. The country’s final Christianisation process took place here.

    At the end of the Viking Age, the Temple of Uppsala was replaced by a Christian Church – probably the Gamle Uppsala Church. 

    In 1164, Gamle Uppsala Church became the seat of the archbishop. A lot of power was moved to Uppsala during the Middle Ages, and the city continued to develop as an important place for Scandinavia. 

    Moving Uppsala South & Uppsala Cathedral

    When the Gamla Uppsala Church was damaged by a fire in 1204, the Chapter sought permission from the Holy See to move the church to a larger site. Pope Alexander IV granted this request in 1258, on the condition that the name Uppsala be maintained.

    So, the city was moved south. The original settlement was renamed “Gamla Uppsala” (Old Uppsala), while the new town was called Uppsala. The move officially took place in 1273, the same year that Uppsala Cathedral began. 

    Uppsala Cathedral

    Uppsala Cathedral dates to the late 13th century and, at a height of 118 metres, is the tallest cathedral in the Nordic countries. The cathedral was originally built under Roman Catholicism and was used as a coronation church for a long time. Much of the cathedral was redesigned after the fire of 1702 and after a renovation in the 1880s. 

    It is possible to visit Uppsala Cathedral. 

    Uppsala was fortified in the 14th century when the Archbishops Castle was built. The Castle is mentioned in the battles of 1497 and 1521 (mentioned below), and at the end of the War of Liberation, King Gustav restored the castle and held a coronation party there. 

    The castle caught fire in 1543 and was not restored. When the University House was built in 1879, the ruins of the castle were uncovered but no archaeological survey was carried out. 

    Uppsala University

    On the 27th of February 1477, Uppsala University was founded through a bull by Pope Sixtus IV. It became the first university int he Nordic region and the northernmost university in the world at the time.

    Education was divided into four faculties: The Faculty of Philosophy, Medicine, Law and Theology. Teaching revolved around scholastic philosophy inspired by the ancient philosopher Aristotle. 

    Uppsala University

    You can view the University’s historic collections at the Gustavianum building. 

    (click here for website)

    The Vasa Period & the Reformation (16th Century)

    While Gustav Vasa’s reign was generally regard as good for the development of Stockholm (read my separate overview of the history of Stockholm here), it was not good for Uppsala.

    With the Reformation, the university’s activities came to be severely limited. The university was Catholic, and that was not something that was appreciated by Gustav Vasa and all the new Lutherans. After the Reformation, teaching practically died out after the mid-16th century. The Reformation also meant that both power and capital were moved from the church in Uppsala to the king in Stockholm.

    In 1543, a large city fire in Uppsala destroyed St. Peter’s Church, the Franciscan Convent, and the Archbishop’s Castle, with none of them being rebuilt later.

    In 1539, the King had Uppsala Castle built in the city. The castle was later remodelled after a fire in 1572 and was expanded into a Renaissance palace. One of its most important tasks was to host the coronation festivities after the ceremony in the cathedral.

    Sweden's Century of Power (17th Century)

    In Sweden, the 17th century was a period of power and domination in Europe. For Uppsala, the city became the kingdom’s secondary capital as it was the seat of the archbishop, the Swedish Academy, and the University.

    The Lutheran King Gustav II Adolf re-established the Uppsala University as he wanted to develop Sweden into an intellectual country.

    He added subjects like political science and history. In 1622, a new university building called the Gustavianum was built (this is where the University museum is today).

    In 1624, Gustav II Adolf donated the Gustavian heritage – over 400 farms and crofts – to the university. Their value today is estimated at over 2 billion SEK.

    In 1643, the medieval city was largely demolished and rebuilt based off plans by Anders Torstensson, who designed the city in a wide grid pattern. The city’s main meeting place was moved from The Old Square to Stora Torget. The city was built within an area of 800mx1200m and was not expanded until the 19th century. The area around the cathedral escaped the city plan and demolition, so it is still characterised by an irregular street pattern.

    The Celsius House is one of the few medieval houses in the eastern city that survived demolition and doesn’t stand parallel to other houses along the pedestrian street.

    The City Fire of 1702

    One of the most important events in Uppsala’s history is the city fire on 16 May 1702. The fire started near the current Old Square. Most of Uppsala was on the west side of the river, but it had been dry for a long time and the fire was able to spread quickly in a strong wind over the wooden bridges.

    Among the damaged buildings were Uppsala Cathedral, which was almost completely burned and could not be used again until 1707. Uppsala Castle was also severely damaged and never completely rebuilt – the castle looks the same today as it did after reconstruction. Another damaged building was one of the university’s main buildings, the Academia Carolina, which was so badly damaged that it was not rebuilt.

    With the city fire, Uppsala lost its position as the kingdom’s second city and coronation city, as Ulrika Eleonora became the last Swedish monarch to be crowned here in 1719.

    The Enlightenment (18th Century)

    As an academic city, Uppsala was strongly influenced by the ideas of the Enlightenment. During the 18th century, reason and science were celebrated and during the 1720s Uppsala and the university began to flourish.

    New institutions for subjects such as chemistry, physics and economics were established.

    During this period, many of the most prominent figures of the Swedish enlightenment began to live and work in the city. Carl von Linne began mapping and systemising the plant world. Anders Celsius created Sweden’s first proper observatory in 1741, where astronomical and meteorological observations were regularly carried out.

    Romanticism & Industrialisation (19th Century)

    During the Romantic period, strong Scandinavian currents arose at universities around the Nordics. The first Scandinavian student meeting was held in 1843 in Uppsala and students from the universities in Copenhagen, Kristiania (Oslo) and Lund came to the city. In order to recognise each other at student meetings, it was decided that students should wear identical caps, which became the model for today’s student caps.

    In 1870, women gained access to the university and in 1872 Betty Pettersson became the first female student to be enrolled at a Swedish university.

    Population growth took off in the middle of the 19th century thanks to industrialisation.

    Wars & Postwar Period (20th Century)

    As Sweden was neutral during both World Wars, the city was left in tact and not directly impacted.

    Uppsala’s post-war history is characterised by expansion. Extensive parts of central Uppsala were demolished and rebuilt in a more functionalist style of architecture. Neoclassical houses from the late 19th century were largely demolished, while older houses were preserved.

    Uppsala also had strong population growth, with the municipality growing from 75,000 in 1940 to 156,000 in 1990.

    Modern Times (21st Century)

    As Sweden was neutral during both World Wars, the city was left in tact and not directly impacted.

    Uppsala’s post-war history is characterised by expansion. Extensive parts of central Uppsala were demolished and rebuilt in a more functionalist style of architecture. Neoclassical houses from the late 19th century were largely demolished, while older houses were preserved.

    Uppsala also had strong population growth, with the municipality growing from 75,000 in 1940 to 156,000 in 1990.

    Uppsala Travel Guide
    Sweden Travel Guide

    Be sure to read my detailed travel guide for Uppsala, including practical information and things to do. 

  • History, Stockholm

    The History of Stockholm (Summarised)

    The History of Stockholm (Summarised)

    Stockholm is such a cool city. I’d argue that it is one of the most beautiful cities in Europe. Thankfully, Sweden was neutral during World War II and therefore the old town of Stockholm remains as one of the best-preserved in all of Europe. But besides maintaining its original look and charm, Stockholm has had a turbulent history affected by unions, wars and plenty of murders. I don’t think any other Nordic capital has so many stories of bloodbaths and murders! Up until very recently, Stockholm was an overcrowded and poor place to live. Now, it has transformed itself into a Green Capital and modern city.

    Here’s my summarised version of the history of Stockholm, focusing on places you can see today. 

    The History of Stockholm

    Stockholm Travel Guide
    Sweden Travel Guide

    Be sure to read my detailed travel guide for Stockholm, including practical information and things to do. 

    Stockholm During the Viking Age

    Not much is known about Stockholm before the city was officially founded, and even that is contested. However, what is known is that the oldest settlement on Lake Mälaren is Birka, about 30 kilometres west of Stockholm. Birka was founded in the 8th century and was a major Viking town. Today Birka is on the UNESCO World Heritage List and is a popular day-trip from Stockholm (It is on my to-do list so I can film it!).

    After Birka was abandoned around 975AD, Sigtuna emerged as the Viking capital of Sweden and was also an important missionary outpost and regarded as where Christianity came to Sweden. Again, visiting here is on my to-do list. 

    But what about Stockholm? It’s not exactly known if people were living here then. The water level of the lake was about five metres higher than it is today. However, the area around Stockholm had settlements and items from the Viking Age, including a sword, have been found around Stockholm. 

    Stockholm is Officially Founded

    According to the Chronicles of Saint Eric, written in the 1320s, Stockholm was founded by Birger Jarl in 1253 as a lock to Lake Mälaren to prevent pirates from reaching the cities around it. The first fortress was built roughly where Stockholm palace is today and was a castle called the Tre Kronor (Three Crowns/Three Kingdoms). 

    What’s the oldest building in Stockholm? Many claim that it’s Birger Jarl’s tower, located on Riddarholmen Island, but it’s not – it was built as a defence tower in the 1530s. What’s considered to be the oldest building is Riddarholmen Church. Parts of the church are from the 1280s and the church was constructed as a burial church for the royals. Storkyrkan, the main church next to the palace, has remains from the 13th century and was a coronation church. 

    Riddarholmen Church

    Riddarholmen Church is regarded as the oldest building in Stockholm and was where the royals and many prominent citizens were buried. It is today a museum and well-worth a visit!

    Riddarholmen Church

    What Does Stockholm Mean?

    The name ‘Stockholm’ is made up of two distinct parts – ‘Stock’ means ‘log’, while ‘Holm’ means ‘islet’. According to a 17th century myth, the population of Birka wanted to found a new settlement, so they floated a log down the lake. It landed on Riddarholmen, where the Tower of Birger Jarl stands. 

    Stockholm, the Important Trading Port

    Shortly after its founding, Stockholm became an important trading port. King Birger Jarl made an agreement with the German Hanseatic League, where he invited them to settle in Stockholm and promised them generous privileges. It was, however, King Magnus Ladulås (1275-1290) who strengthened the relationship with the Hanseatic League. 

    Stockholm transformed into the central port for all trade on the Gulf of Bothnia. The streets around Gamla Stan were divided into neighbourhoods for different craftsmen and interest groups. Craftsmen lived on Köpmangatan (literally “Merchant Street”), and shoemakers lived on Skomakargatan. Both of those streets are the oldest streets in Stockholm – from 1323 and 1337 respectively. Those working with iron and metals lived on Järntorget (Iron Square). Stortorget (Main Square) became the centre of trade for Gamla Stan. 

    Stockholm imported salt, spices, beer, wine, clothing, and luxury goods such as silk, weapons of armours. Exports were iron and copper, local hides, dried fish, butter, and fires.

    Kalmar Union

    In 1380, the three Scandinavian countries entered into a union called the Kalmar Union. How it happened is complicated and is worthy of its own separate article (writing that down for the future!). However, Sweden and Denmark did not get along. Having control of Stockholm was crucial of controlling the kingdom of the Kalmar Union, and many people in Stockholm were against the union. So, this led to around 150 years of battles, fights and blockades.

    Life in Stockholm during the Kalmar Union was tough. There were a large number of Finns and Germans here and the Germans especially had a very strong position in Stockholm. In the city council half of the members had to be German. The Hanseatic League grew in importance here. Eventually, due to fires, Stockholm starts to get more houses in stone.  

    Fun fact – no other countries have gone to ware against each other as much as Denmark and Sweden. 

    Sten Sture the Elder takes Stockholm in 1471

    After many fights between Denmark and Sweden, Sten Sture the Elder, a Swedish statesman, defeated the Danish King Christian I of Denmark at the Battle of Brunkeberg in 1471. He held Stockholm for only six years before losing the city to Hans of Denmark. Sten managed to get power back in 1501, but this resulted in a Danish blockade lasting 1502-1509. Hans’ son, Christian II of Denmark, continued the ambitions of his father and made failed attempts to conquer the city in 1517 and 15718. He finally got Stockholm and forced Queen Christina Gyllenstierna, who was leading the resistance, to capitulate in 1520. The archbishop Gustav Trolle crowned Christian the King of Sweden. 

    St. George & The Dragon

    One of the most famous statues in Stockholm is that of St. George and the Dragon. The original statue is in Storkyrkan, while there is a copy in Gamla Stan. Sten Sture the Elder is represented as St. George, while the dragon represents Denmark. 

    Stockholm Bloodbath

    The Stockholm Bloodbath is one of the most famous events in Swedish history. After Christian II of Denmark took Stockholm in 1520, he invited all the nobles and burghers to a feast. They had all been against him, so either he was trying to make amends, or something bad was about to happen.

    Considering the title of this section, you probably know where this is going!

    All the attendees of the feast were imprisoned, and a council, headed by Archbishop Trolle, sentenced them to death for being heretics. About 82 people were executed. It’s believed that Christian II also had Sten Sture’s body dug up and burnt, as well as the body as his child. Sten’s widow and many noblemen were taken prisoner in Denmark. 

    Gamla Stan Houses

    It is said that each stone on the iconic red house in Gamla Stan represents one of the victims. 

    Gamla Stan Walking Tour

    Gustav Vasa Takes Stockholm

    Gustav Vasa was a son of one of the victims of the executions. After hearing of the massacre, he gathered support and led a revolt, in which he was able to defeat the Danish forces during the Swedish War of Liberation. This permanently separated Sweden from Denmark. At the time he conquered the city, he noted that every second building was abandoned. 

    When Gustav Vasa became king, he brought in many reforms to break the political power of bishops in Sweden. He also demolished monasteries and built defence facilities. As the Bloodbath had killed many of the city’s prominent citizens, the King was able to appoint magistrates as he wished and therefore controlled the city. He also brought the Reformation to Stockholm. 

    16th Century Growth

    Stockholm’s social and economic importance began to grow quickly. By controlling trade from Stockholm, the king effectively controlled national trade. Lubeck remained the most important trading partner and German influence was more tangible than before, with low German being a common language in Stockholm. In the 1570s, the population was about five times as many as in Uppsala, Sweden’s then second-largest city.

    When Eric XIV, son of Gustav Vasa, was crowned King in 1561, the title became hereditary and the kingdom was now financed by taxes. 

    The Swedish Empire

    The Swedish Empire (1611 – 1718) is a period of history in which Sweden controlled large parts of the Baltic and was viewed as one of the great European powers. In Stockholm, the city grew sixfold and many of its current streets were laid out. 

    At the beginning of the 17th century, Stockholm was still a medieval city with narrow alleyways and simple wooden houses. The Stockholm environment was so shabby that people were embarrassed when foreigners were invited to the city in connection with Gustav II’s funeral in 1634. They were worried that the sight of Stockholm would ruin Sweden’s international authority. So, this is where we see many new brick buildings in European styles being built.

    Speaking of Gustav II (the grandson of Gustav Vasa), he is the one who commissioned the ill-fated Vasa warship in 1624. The ship sunk on its maiden voyage in 1628. 

    Vasa Museum

    The Vasa Ship is one of the most important pieces from Stockholm’s history and you can see the ship at the Vasa Museum. 

    The Vasa Museum

    Fires & Reconstruction

    The Castle in 1661

    Throughout the 17th century, Stockholm was modernised. However, this started largely thanks to a number of major fires the city experienced. New boulevard streets were created and the medieval wall was replaced with a row of palaces that became known as Skeppsbron.

    In 1697, the castle was destroyed by fire. It was rebuilt immediately and completed in the 1750s. Builders and architects from France who had recently worked on Versailles were brought in to design the new palace. 

    Stockholm was still largely dependent on trade and ships passing through the city. Stockholm lacked the resources, such as livestock, to support themselves. All goods brought to Stockholm had to pass through one of six custom stations, generating income for the city.

    In the 1630s and 1640s the neighbourhoods of Norrmalm and Södermalm begin to be developed. New wide streets were laid out inspired by the Renaissance, and to make these new streets hundreds of houses and farms were demolished. Considering the size of the city, it was a transformation that was far greater in scope than the transformation that came in the 1950s-1970s, which we’ll get to later. 

    Södermalm

    Södermalm is today one of the hippest neighbourhoods in Stockholm, but it is also one of the few places in the city where you can see historic wooden houses. Follow my walking tour below!

    Södermalm walking Tour

    The Age of Liberty

    Due to several major losses at war, Sweden’s role as a major European power was over, and in the 18th century many disasters happened. 

    Wars and alcohol led to a surplus of women in the city. Stockholm also had an absence of children, caused by the high number of unmarried people and high infant mortality. There was economic segregation in the city.

    The mercantile model developed, with domestic production promoted by lows and import limited to raw materials not available in Sweden. This led to the rise of the Skeppsbro Nobility, the wealthy wholesalers at Skeppsbron in Gamla Stan who made a fortune delivering bar iron to the international market. The Swedish East India Company was important to Stockholm as it led to a rise in shipbuilding yards and exotic products being available. However, with up to 150 men per ship and a single trip to China taking up to 2 years, it made a huge impact on Stockholm and the lack of men in the city. 

    After more fires, building codes were established and wooden buildings were prohibited. We start to see more monumental buildings in this period, such as the Stock Exchange building from the 1770s (now the Nobel Museum).  

    Gustavian Era & Grand Buildings

    Under Gustav III (1772-1809), the Enlightenment came to Stockholm. The King had great interest in the city’s development and created the Gustav Adolf Square and had the Royal Opera inaugurated there. On the king’s initiative, Haga Park, the Academy of Music, the Painting and Sculptor Academy, the Swedish Theatre, the Royal Ballet, the Swedish Academy and the Academy of History and the History of Antiquities were added. 

    The neoclassical Norrbro bridge was completed and led to people beginning to move out of the city. 

    The period ended when King Gustav III was executed at the Royal Opera he created, and King Gustav IV was deposed in 1809 in a coup d’etat, the same year Sweden lost Finland. This meant that Stockholm ceased to be the geographical centre of the Swedish kingdom. 

    The Industrial Era

    Stockholm 1868

    At the turn of the 19th century, most people still lived at Gamla Stan. Norrmalm was still the wealthy part of town and Södermalm was still working class with the outskirks not having water or sewerage systems. The mortality rate in Stockholm was very high, with every third child dying before the age of one. The population was around 71,000. In the 1860s, these neighbourhoods were re-designed with parks and esplanades inspired by the Champs Elysees. 

    In the second half of the 19th century, Stockholm regained its economic role. New industries emerged and Stockholm was transformed into an important trade centre. During the 1850s and 1860s, gas works, sewerage, and running water were introduced. Streets were paved and the railway came to Stockholm with the central station being completed in 1871. 

    Urban development was notable in central Stockholm, where several prominent neo-Renaissance buildings were built. Towards the 1880s, many monumental brick buildings were built, including Gamla Riksarkivet (The National Archives) building. 

    In the 1880s and 1890s, the new district Östermalm emerged, with new luxurious buildings.

    By the end of the century, the population had exploded to 245,000. 

    The Early 20th Century

    During World War I, construction practically stopped. Shortly after the war, Sweden was incredibly overcrowded.

    The Stockholm City Hall was completed in 1923. This is where the annual Nobel Banquet is held. The building became one of Sweden’s foremost buildings from the National Romantic Era. 

    Stockholm City Hall

    Stockholm City Hall is an impressive building to visit and is open for tours all year round. 

    Stockholm City Hall

    Modernism had its breakthrough in the early 1930s. New houses were built in the Stockholm suburbs and they all came with heating, a private bathroom, flushing toilet, hot and cold water, and a modern kitchen. 

    World War II

    Stockholm was largely unaffected by World War II, making it one of the best-preserved European capitals. 

    Into Modern Times

    In the late 20th century, Stockholm became a modern, technologically advanced, and ethnically diverse city. 

    Between the 150s and 1970s, practically the whole of the neighbourhood Norrmalm was torn down and rebuilt in the functionalist style of architecture. Click here to see an example. It was heavily criticised at the time and maybe many today think the modern buildings are not so nice. However, a big reason for doing this was to build the subway through Stockholm, which opened in 1950. 

    In 1967, all of Stockholm (and Sweden) changed from driving on the left to driving on the right. 

    On 12 February 1986, Swedish Prime Minister Olof Palme was shot dead at the Sveavågen-Tunnelgatan intersection. The investigation became Sweden’s largest and most expensive ever and is not yet solved.

    In 2006, the Stockholm trial begin. It was a trial of introducing a congestion tax for car traffic in the city, together with expanded public transportation. A referendum following the trial led to its permanent status on 1 August 2007. In 2010, Stockholm was the European Capital of the Environment.

    That about wraps up all I had to say about the history of Stockholm. I hope this overview helps you understand the city better when you visit for yourself!

    Stockholm Travel Guide
    Sweden Travel Guide

    Be sure to read my detailed travel guide for Stockholm, including practical information and things to do. 

  • History, Kristiansand

    The History of Kristiansand – Norway’s Southernmost Major City

    The History of Kristiansand

    The history of Kristiansand is quite fascinating for a city that is considered to be ‘new’ by Norwegian stands. Only founded in the 17th century, Kristiansand was established because of its strategic location on the tip of southern Norway on the Skaggerak strait – the important crossing from the North Sea into the Baltic Sea. However, even though the city is only around 400 years old, traces of settlement show that people have lived here for thousands of years. 

    Here is a summarised history of Kristiansand with a focus on places you can visit when you visit this lovely city. 

    The History of Kristiansand

    The E39 Highway

    Kristiansand is located on the E39, the main highway along the west coast. You can find my guide to the E39 by clicking the link below. 

    The E39 Highway
    Kristiansand Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Be sure to read my detailed travel guide for Kristiansand, including practical information and things to do. 

    Prehistoric Kristiansand

    In recent years, there have been a number of important discoveries showing life in prehistoric Kristiansand. The most important find is the Søgne woman, the oldest human discovery in Norway. She was discovered in 1994 one metre below the surface in the neighbourhood of Søgne. The skeletal parts have been dated to 7910 – 7600 BC. 

    There has also been a discovery of a settlement from the Stone Age at the place Grauthelleren in the neighbourhood of Fidje, located on the south-east coast of Kristansand city centre. It is not possible to visit this site, though. Additional traces of settlement, including a round house and pit, were discovered under cultivated land in the 1970s. Uniquely, round houses are not common in Norway. 

    Oddernes & Settlement in the Middle Ages

    The earliest traces of permanent settlement have been found in the neighbourhood of Oddernes to the north of current-day Kristiansand. Pits, houses and pottery have been found along with evidence of pagan worship.

    The compact burial ground known as Klempegravene på Odderenes (not accessible) is one of southern Norway’s largest burial grounds in pre-Christian times. 

    An important testimony of a larger and organised society over more than 1,000 years is Oddernes Church, built in 1040. Inside the church’s armoury is a large runestone called the Oddernessteinen, which mentions Saint Olav. The fact that the church is built in stone symbolises wealth and status, meaning Oddernes must’ve been an important place. The stone originally stood outside the church but has since been moved inside. 

    Oddernes Church

    Oddernes Church is the oldest building in Kristiansand. The first church to be located here may have been built by Øyvind, the godson of Olav the Holy. The middle part of the church is the oldest part and dates back to the 12th century. The church was expanded after the Reformation. In the churchyard, burial mounds indicate this was an important place back to 400AD, and there used to be a royal farm here.

    It is possible to visit Oddernes Church. The church is located just off the E18 highway at this address: Jegersbergveien 2

    Trade & Shipping Traffic in the 16th Century

    The interest in southern Norway as a trade hub is thanks to the Dutch, who began to compete with the powerful German Hanseatic League in the 16th century. Therefore, the Dutch began trading in Mandal, close to Kristiansand, around 1450. Danish ships arrived around the same time to trade, while ships from Scotland came in 1520. For the Dutch, it was the timber trade that was most of interest, especially oak. 

    Before the Kiel Canal was constructed, the area around Kristiansand was of strategic importance because the naval base could control access to the Danish straits and Baltic Sea. Because of that, the Danes also established a military base here. 

    Establishment of Kristiansand under Christian IV

    The eccentric but heavily influential King Christian IV visited the area around Kristiansand twice – in 1630 and 1635. He saw the flat plain by the sea being used for pastures and envisioned a city with large, wide streets in a grid pattern according to the Renaissance ideals of the time (called kvadraturen). 

    “Christiansand” (original spelling) was founded by King Christian IV on the 5th of July, humbly naming the city after himself. The town got its Renaissance grid plan, and merchants in the county of Agder were ordered to move to the town. In return, they would get trade privileges and ten years of tax exemption. 

    Kristiansand quickly became the southernmost major city in Norway.

    Shortly after its founding, two new fortresses were built: Fredriksholm and Christiansholm. 

    Fra Frederik 5s atlas. Source: Riksarkivet, Oslo, Norway

    Fredriksholm Fortress

    Fredriksholm fortress was completed in 1662 and is named after the Danish King Fredrik III. The fortress closed in 184, though was partly restored in 1874. When Roald Amundsen was setting out on his expedition to the South Pole in 1910, the harbour here was the last stop in Norway before his departure. At the fortress, almost 100 Greenland dogs were waiting to come aboard the ‘Fram’ ship. 

    The remains of the fortress can be seen, but the fortress is out on an island and difficult to get to. 

    Christiansholm Fortress

    Christiansholm Fortress was part of the plan for Kristiansand when Christian IV founded the city. Construction was completed in 1672, though many extensions were made after that. The facilities were mentioned at the same level as Akershus Fortress in Oslo and Bergenhus Fortress in Bergen. The fortress was closed in 1872. Today you can take a ferry to visit and there are regular cultural events held here. 

    As Kristiansand grew, it overtook other Norwegian cities for important things. For example, in 1682 the King moved the episcopal seat from Stavanger to Kristiansand. 

    The town experienced its first major fire in 1734, when 333 houses were destroyed. 

    Shipbuilding emerged as a major industry in Kristiansand throughout the 18th century. 

    Naopoleonic Wars

    The Napoleonic Wars with the accompanying blockade and naval war caused an upswing in trade for Kristiansand, but with the declaration of war from England came years of emergency.

    Denmark-Norway supported France and was therefore exposed to attacks from the British on Danish-Norwegian ship. The British liner HMS Spencer entered the Kristiansandsfjord on the 18th of September 1807 and were fired upon from Christiansholm fortress. The British captured the disused Fredriksholm fortress, which was blown up and destroyed. 

    The story of Terje Vigen is from this time. You can read the poem and some background into the poem by clicking here. 

    French troops were garrisoned in Kristiansand during the Napoleonic Wars, often in private homes. The rented quarters got the nickname Pose Byen (French town) and this neighbourhood still has that name.

    In the early 19th century, Kristiansand was known to be a dangerous and lawless harbour town, but eventually a Pietist revival as a reaction to these conditions came. 

    Posebyen

    Posebyen is the name of the charming neighbourhood in the eastern part of Kristiansand. The neighbourhood has one of the biggest collection of wooden houses in Norway.

    19th Century Growth

    Throughout the 19th century Kristiansand remained an important port of call for goods leaving Norway, and this created massive fortunes in the city.

    In the 1830s, growth in Norwegian shipping was centered on Kristiansand. From the middle of the 19th century, Kristiansand and Arendal advanced to become the world’s leading shipping cities. 

    Arendal Travel Guide

    The ships sailed with timber and lumber ot England, carried grain to Russia, the United States and Canada, and carried cotton to the West Indies. Some even went as emigrant ships to the United States. However, towards the end of the 19th century, both cities held onto sailing ships for too long as steamships began to overtake trade. Because of that, the shipping industry began to dramatically decline. The largest shipping company in Norway in the 1890s was Stray, which had 70 sailing ships and 15 steamships. 

    An important event for the city was the establishment of Eg Sindssygeasyl in 1891, the second central psychiatric institution in Norway after Gaustad. The psychiatric hospital attracted highly trained doctors to the city and was a pioneering institution in Norwegian psychiatry. It also provided many jobs for women.

    The last major fire in Kristiansand happened in 1892, when the southern half of Kvadraturen up to Rådhusgata was destroyed. 

    World War I and the Interwar Period

    During World War I, Kristiansand was a neutral shipping town. The town grew thanks to this economic boost, and banks and trading houses were built.

    However, during the Interwar Period there was a housing shortage after a strong population growth, and unemployment intensified social problems. Kristiansand became a centre for intellectuals. Bauhaus architect Thilo Schoder came here, escaping Hitler’s Germany in 1932. Arnulf Øverland was also a frequent guest of the city. 

    Thilo Schoder

    Thilo Schoder was a famous Bauhaus architect from Germany. He escaped Hitler’s Germany in 1932 to come to Kristiansand. He was arrested by the Nazis in Kristiansand in May 1940 but survived the war by designing barracks for the Nazis. The long blocks of flats in Solbygg (pictured left) are architectural highlights of functionalism in Norway. 

    Arnulf Øverland

    Arnulf Øverland was a Norwegian writer, poet, critic and advocate of the national language. He was the last person in Norway to be prosecuted for blasphemy, in 1933, after giving the lecture “Christianity – the tenth scourge of the land” in Oslo. He was also very critical of Nazism, and in 1936 wrote the poem “You Must Not Sleep”. It ends with: “I thought: Now something is happening. / Our time is over – Europe is burning». A well-known part from the poem reads: “You must not bear so heartily / the injustice that does not affect you!”

    Øverland was one of the Norwegian delegates to the Hague Congress in 1948, which laid the foundations for the European Convention of Human Rights and the Council of Europe.

    World War II

    Kristiansand was attacked on the 9th of April 1940 by the Nazi naval forces. On board were approximately 1,100 landing troops. The fortress on Odderøya fell. German troops occupied the city. The Nazis built coastal fortifications and took over the military bases.

    Postwar Period

    During the reconstruction after the war, Lund was developed with unique houses in the Bauhaus style, designed by Thilo Schoder.

    Lund in Kristiansand

    Lund is a neighbourhood to the east of Kristiansand. Traces of people have been found back to the early Iron Age, through the Viking Age and up to the early Middle Ages in some places. There has been settlement here since the Stone Age. In the Viking Age, there was a nobleman’s farm here. The area has eventually been developed into a neighbourhood and now the University of Agder is located here.

    In the 1980s, the city’s industry and business were down, and only two shipping companies were left in town. In the 1990s the engineering community began to emerge and develop companies for ship and offshore equipment, safety technology and well drilling.

    Kristiansand also became one the country’s leading locations for telephone sales and call centres, with more than 1,000 employees in this industry.

    The E39 Highway

    Kristiansand is located on the E39, the main highway along the west coast. You can find my guide to the E39 by clicking the link below. 

    The E39 Highway
    Kristiansand Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Be sure to read my detailed travel guide for Kristiansand, including practical information and things to do. 

  • History, Svalbard

    The History of Longyearbyen

    The History of Longyearbyen

    If you’re going to Svalbard, you will be going to Longyearbyen. The only settlement open to the public to stay at, Longyearbyen is the hub of Svalbard and starting point for all the expeditions and day trips around the archipelago. 

    While today Longyearbyen as a vibrant, modern and lively town centre, this is all very recent. For the first several decades of the towns existence, Longyearbyen was a harsh and inhospitable place cut off from the rest of Norway. However, people chose to come here because of the mining activity that has been taking place here since the towns inception.

    Before you to go Longyearbyen, be sure to understand a little of the settlements history. Here is my History of Longyearbyen. 

    In this article...

    Longyearbyen Travel Guide
    Svalbard Travel Guide

    Be sure to read my detailed travel guide for Svalbard, including all the settlements and itineraries for different times of the year. 

    Early years of Longyearbyen

    Longyearbyen, nestled in the Norwegian archipelago of Svalbard, boasts a captivating history woven with exploration, mining, and Arctic survival. While it was a place where there were hunters and explorers from the 17th century onwards, many consider Longyearbyen’s beginnings to be mining, but that’s not totally true. In fact, the first reason for people coming to Longyearbyen was tourism. In 1896, Vesteraalens Dampskibsselskab (later Hurtigruten) started tours to Hotelneset, the name of the peninsula where the airport is today. A prefabricated hotel was built and two families lived on the property all year round. A post office operated by the Norwegian Postal Service was even established here. However, this wasn’t a successful business because of the cost of maintaining the property.

    John Longyear & the Discovery of Mining

    The American industrialist John Munro Longyear visited Spitsbergen in 1901 as a tourist and met an expedition prospecting for coal. Two years later he came back and got more information on the coal fields. Longyear bought the Norwegian claims on the west side of the Adventfjord, and in 1906 started the Arctic Coal Company. Mine 1a was the first mine to operate at Longyearbyen. The company had American administration but mostly Norwegian labourers and they built accommodation and docks for the workers. The name of the settlement – Longyear City. The aerial tramway that is still visible on the mountainside was used to transport the coal from the mine to the port. Mine 2a opened in 1913.

    Longyearbyen in 1908

    The American-owned company did not last too long. Financial difficulties during World War I led to the mining operations being bought by the Norwegian company Store Norske, which was incorporated in Oslo in 1916. Store Norske built five new barracks and a hospital. Store Norske owned a great deal of the town. Store Norske even had their own money (with approval from Norges Bank), consisting entirely of banknotes at par with the Norwegian krone.

    Mine 1 closed in 1920 after 26 men were killed in a coal dust explosion. Remains of the mine are still visible on the mountainside.

    Establishing Longyearbyen as a Town

    As mentioned above, a hospital and even money were brought to Longyearbyen in the 1910s. In 1920, the Church of Norway appointed Svalbard’s first vicar and teacher – Thorleif Østenstad. A school was established jointly by the church and Store Norske. At first, there were 8 students here. The first church in Svalbard opened in 1921, though was eventually destroyed during World War II.

    Because Store Norske now owned mining activities, the town was renamed Longyearbyen in 1926.

    Tourism began in 1935, when SS Lyngen started calling regularly during the summer season. In 1938, Longyearbyen’s first road was completed and linked the town with Sverdrupbyen further down the valley.

    World War II

    During World War II, Longyearbyen gained strategic significance due to its coal resources and suffered bombings by German forces in 1943. Initially Longyearbyen was unaffected by the war, but soon it became clear that Svalbard was of strategic important. On 3 September 1941 the population (765 people) were evacuated from Longyearbyen to Scotland. A small Nazi garrison and air strip was established in Adventdalen, mostly to provide meterological data. After the British Operation Ftirham regained control of Barentsburg, the Nazis left Longyearbyen without combat.

    Ruins from World War II in Longyearbyen

    In September 1943, the Kriegsmarine dispatched two battleships, Tirpitz and Scharnhorst, and nine destroyers to bombard Longyearbyen, Barentsburg and Grumant. Only four buildings in Longyearbyen survived – the hospital, power station, office building and a residential building. The first ship leaving the mainland to repopulate Longyearbyen left on 27 June 1945.

    Immediate Post-War Development

    Post-war, the Norwegian government took control of mining operations, leading to further development and stability. By 1948, coal production had reached the pre-war level. The neighbourhood of Nybyen was established in 1946 and consisted of five barracks, each housing 72 people.

    The first issue of the Svalbardposten newspaper was published in November 1948. A year later, Longyearbyen got a telephone connection to the mainland. The cemetery that had been established in the 1920s closed in 1950 because the bodies were not decomposing due to the permafrost and keeping them risked disease. Since then, bodies have been sent to the mainland for burial. The community centre Huset opened in 1951.

    'Normalising' Longyearbyen

    In the 1960s, the town began its modernisation process. The first snowmobile was brought here in 1961, and by 1969 there were 140 registered snowmobiles against 33 registered cars. Television broadcasting equipment was installed in 1969, with the schedule of the Norwegian Broadcasting Corporation being aired with a two-week delay. Television became live in 1984.

    In 1971, a new school building opened along with a gymnasium and swimming pool. In 1978, an upper secondary program was introduced at the public school.

    The Svalbard Council was established on the 1st of November 1971 and it consisted of three different groups: Store Norske employees, government employees and others.

    The airport opened in 1975 and initially provided four weekly services to mainland Norway and semi-weekly services to Russia.

    Do you remember the Store Norske money that was introduced back in the early days? That was taken out of circulation in 1980 and the Norwegian kroner has been used since then.

    Svalbard Samfunnsdrift, a company responsible for public infrastructure and services, was established by Store Norske in 1989. They are responsible for healthcare, the fire brigade, the kindergarten, roads, rubbish disposal, power production, the water and sewer system, cinema, cultural activities, and the library. Ownership was taken over by the Ministry of Trade and Industry in 1993.

    Modernisation of Mining

    Mines continued to open around Longyearbyen in the 1970s. Mine 3 opened in March 1971, and Mine 7 opened in 1972. In 1973, the Ministry of Trade and Industry bought a third of Store Norske – eventually it owned 99.94% of the company.

    From 1982, Store Norske permitted private individuals to own and operate cars, and by 1990 there were 353 registered cars and 883 snowmobiles. Store Norske moved their headquarters from Bergen to Longyearbyen in 1983.

    Modern Times

    Over time, Longyearbyen modernised, improving infrastructure and amenities for its residents. This process has been called ‘normalisation’ and included introducing a full range of services, a varied economy, and a local democracy.

    Yet, economic challenges emerged in the latter half of the 20th century as coal prices declined, prompting a shift towards diversification. Mining is planning on closing in Longyearbyen altogether. The first major hotel opened in 1995 (now the Radisson Blu), the Longyearbyen Community Council was established in 2002, and the University Centre in Svalbard opened on 6 September 1993 and had 30 students. Telenor mobile was introduced in 1995, and in 2004 the Svalbard Undersea Cable System opened, providing fiber-optic cable connection to the mainland. The Svalbard Global Seed Vault opened in 2008.

    Today, Longyearbyen’s economy revolves around tourism, research, and education. As a base for scientific expeditions, Longyearbyen hosts research institutions studying climate change, wildlife, and geology. However, it also faces unique challenges, such as extreme Arctic conditions and the impacts of climate change. Despite these obstacles, the town has adapted, implementing measures to ensure safety and sustainability.

    Longyearbyen’s cultural heritage is preserved through museums, historic sites, and local traditions, celebrating its diverse influences from Norwegian, Russian, and American backgrounds. Ultimately, Longyearbyen’s history embodies human resilience and exploration in one of the world’s most unforgiving environments.

    Longyearbyen Travel Guide
    Svalbard Travel Guide

    Be sure to read my detailed travel guide for Svalbard, including all the settlements and itineraries for different times of the year. 

  • History, Norway, Svalbard

    The History of Svalbard (Summarised)

    The History of Svalbard

    Svalbard, an archipelago located in the Arctic Ocean, holds a history as vast and rugged as its icy landscapes. While the first people to visit Svalbard is disputed, there’s no denying that the island was of great importance for European hunting and trade in the 17th and 18th centuries. While the basis for interest in the archipelago was the exploration of its natural resources, today the interest in Svalbard is largely scientific.

    When travelling to Svalbard, you’ll of course be doing many excursions to see the incredible nature. However, it’s good to understand how Svalbard came to be what it is today. I’ve written this short historic overview of Svalbard with additional information on how to visit these places today, and hopefully this will make your trip to Svalbard even better!

    Here is my History of Svalbard. 

    In this article...

    Svalbard Travel Guide

    Be sure to read my detailed travel guide for Svalbard, including all the settlements and itineraries for different times of the year. 

    When did the first peoples reach Svalbard?

    It’s not known exactly when the first peoples were on Svalbard. Some explorers have claimed that they have found Stone Age tools on Svalbard from around 3,000BC, but there is little support of these claims. However, during the 19th century Norwegian historians proposed that Norse seamen founded Svalbard in 1194, and this is based on documents stating that “Svalbarði” is four days sailing from Iceland. This is where the name ‘Svalbard’ comes from. However, there is no further written sources about the Norse exploration to Svalbard. Russian historians have proposed that the Pomors (North Russian traders) may have visited the island in the 15th century.

    The first undisputed discovery of Svalbard was an expedition led by the Dutch cartographer and navigator Willem Barentsz (the Barents Sea is named after him), who was searching for the Northeast Passage to China. He spotted Bear Island (just south of the main island Spitsbergen) on 10 June 1596 and then saw the north-western tip of Spitsbergen on the 17th of June. His documents did not mention Svalbard’s natural resources, such as oil and fur – what the region would soon become famous for.

    The First Peoples of Svalbard & Early Whaling

    Svalbard’s natural resources were not ‘discovered’ until 1607, when the English navigator Henry Hudson found whales, walruses, and seals in the water around Spitsbergen. This gave rise to a claim of Spitsbergen in 1614 by the Muscovy Company on behalf of King James I of England.

    The Dutch started whaling activities in the Arctic around the year 1612, and they established the first settlement on Svalbard – Smeerenburg – in 1619. It is possible to visit Smeerenburg only on cruises that visit the north-west coast of the island. The Dutch ended up dominating the whaling industry with the help of experienced Basque harpooners, who boiled whale blubber in large copper pots. By the late 17th century, there were between 200 and 300 ships and up to 10,000 whalers around Spitsbergen. The first group overwintered (accidentally) in 1630. The first planned overwintering was by the Dutch at Smeerenburg in 1633. Smeerenburg was abandoned in 1750.

    Cornelis de Man's 1639 painting of whaling at Smeerenburg
    remains of smeerenburg history of svalbard
    Smeerenburg today

    Eventually the interest in other resource arose, with the goods being taken back to Europe to be sold. The Pomors (Russian traders) were the ones who started hunting animals for fur. They hunted polar bears, foxes, seals, and walruses. They built many hunting stations around Svalbard, and many of these stations, complete with Russian Orthodox crosses, have been excavated. The Pomors would also overwinter on Svalbard. The large Pomor settlement at Russekeila became known for its famous inhabitant, Ivan Starostin, who spent 39 winters on Svalbard. Cape Starashchin is named after him.

    Who owns Svalbard? Political Conflicts over the Archipelago

    The European whalers let to an international political conflict. Who owned Svalbard? Who had a right to kick others out? The Dutch rejected that the English had exclusive rights, and King Christian IV of Denmark-Norway claimed that he had the rights to all of the Northern Sea as Greenland was an old Norwegian tax-land. England offered to purchased the rights from Denmark-Norway, but the offer was turned down and then England went back to claiming exclusive rights. In 1615, Denmark-Norway sent men to collect tax from English and Dutch whalers, but they refused to pay. This ended in political deadlock.

    As mentioned above, the Russian Pomor traders came in the late 17th century and established their own settlements. In the 1790s, there were 2,200 Russian hunters in Svalbard. However, the Pomors found it difficult to compete with the Norwegians who reached the hunting grounds earlier and eventually took over. The Norwegians began overwintering in Svalbard in 1795.

    Seal hunting was started by the Germans in the late 17th century and was taken over by Norwegians and the Danes in the 18th century. Seal hunting wasn’t as profitable, though.

    Norwegians reached Svalbard in the 18th century, and the first Norwegian citizens to reach the island of Spitsbergen were a number of Sami people from Hammerfest, who were hired as part of a Russian crew for an expedition in 1795. From the 1820s Norwegian hunting expeditions grew and Tromsø became the main port from which the expeditions began. Elling Carlsen was a well-known seal hunter and explorer, and circumnavigated the whole archipelago in 1861.

    Exploration in the 19th Century

    While the interest in Svalbard was certainly associated with hunting, there was also an interest in studying Svalbard. Exploration on the archipelago began in the early 17th century by the whaling companies. In 1650, it was established that Spitsbergen was an island not connected to Greenland. However, it was only really the coast that was studied at first.

    The first scientific expedition to Svalbard was the Russian Čičagov Expedition between 1764 and 1766, which passed Svalbard in an unsuccessful attempt to find the North Sea Route. The second expedition was organised by the Royal Navy and led by Constantine Phipps in 1773. They collected zoological and botanical samples and measured water temperatures.

    Scientific exploration increased throughout the 18th century, with the most extensive surveys being carried out by William Scoresby, who published several papers on the Arctic. Baltazar Mathias Keilhau (a Norwegian) was the first to carry out expeditions on the interior of Svalbard. Swedish exploration started with Sven Loven in 1837, which led way to Sweden dominating scientific investigations in the last half of the century. Martin Conway (United Kingdom) was the first to produce a map of the interior of Svalbard.

    Airship Norge in Ny-Ålesund 1926

    Svalbard was used as the starting point for expeditions to the North Pole. Ny-Ålesund (the second main settlement of Svalbard, only accessible on guided tour) was the basis of four attempts to the North Pole between 1925 and 1928, including Roald Amundsen’s first attempt with a flying boat. Amundsen’s airship Norge is credited as the first to reach the pole. Umberto Nobile’s airship Italia crashed in 1928, resulting in the largest search in polar history.

    Industrialisation of Svalbard

    While hunting was important for the growth of interest in Svalbard, the next phase of Svalbard’s money-making history was the industrialisation of the archipelago following the discovery of coal. No rules governed who could claim land, and between 1898 and 1920 over 100 land claims were made.

    The first attempt to create a permanent settlement on Svalbard was carried out by Sweden’s Alfred Gabriel Nathorst, who established Kapp Thordsen in 1872 with the goal of mining phosphorite, but it was never carried out. The Swedes set themselves up to mine at Svea, while the Russians began mining at Barentsburg and Pyramiden. The two British companies were the Scottish Spitsbergen Syndicate and the Northern Exploration Company.

    Industrial mining of coal began in 1899 (the whalers and hunters had been using the coal long before then), but the first commercially viable mining company was the American John Munroe Longyear’s Arctic Coal Company, which established the town Longyear City (in 1925 it was renamed Longyearbyen). By 1910, 200 men worked for the company and by 1912 the company was extracting 40,000 tons of coal a year. The town and the mines were bought by the Norwegian-owned Store Norske Spitsbergen Kulkompani in 1916.

    Longyearbyen in 1908

    The first school in Longyearbyen was built in 1920 by the Church of Norway. Svalbard Radio started broadcasting in 1911, and an early version of a hotel was completed in 1896.

    Swedish interests established mines at Pyramiden (no longer accessible due to the war in Urkraine) and Sveagruva (recently abandoned and torn down), which Dutch investors established Barentsburg (not accessible due to the war in Ukraine). Norwegians established coal mining in Ny-Ålesund in 1916.

    Norway Claims Svalbard (The Svalbard Treaty)

    During all this time, Svalbard was a terra nullius (land without government). The work to establish an administration was established in 1871. Fridtjof Nansen’s endeavours raised the Norwegian public’s consciousness of the Arctic, which again brought forth public support for the annexation of Svalbard.

    The Government of Norway took initative in 1907 for negotiations between the involved states mining in Svalbard. Conferences were held in 1910, 1912 and 1914. The break through came at the Paris Peace Conference – Germany and Russia had both been excluded, while Norway enjoyed much goodwill after their neutral ally policy and was seen as a harmless country.

    The Svalbard Treaty of 9 February 1920 granted Norway full sovereignty over Svalbard, although with two major limitations: all parties to the treaty had equal rights to economic resources and Svalbard was not to be used for “warlike purposes”. That is why there’s no military on Svalbard, and why Russia owns Barentsburg and Pyramiden.

    Svalbard was to be administered by the Governor of Svalbard. It is regarded as “part of the Kingdom of Norway” but is not a county. A mining code was passed in 1925 and by 1927 all mining claims were resolved. All unclaimed land was taken over by the Norwegian government. Although the Soviet Union was sceptical to the treaty, they were willing to trade a signing of it in exchange for a Norwegian recognition of the Soviet regime.

    By the 1930s, only the Norwegians and Russians were mining on Svalbard.

    World War II

    Ruins from World War II in Longyearbyen

    Svalbard was initially unaffected by the Nazi occupation of Norway by Nazi Germany on 9 April 1940. However, following the Nazi attack on the Soviet Union, Svalbard became of strategic importance to secure supplies between the allies. All Norwegian and Soviet settlements were evacuated, and Nazis occupied Longyearbyen, where they built an airstrip and a weather station. Svalbard is one of the best weather prediction places for the sea and temperatures in Northern Norway, so it was of strategic importance for them. In May 1942, a Norwegian expedition was sent to liberate the island and they were attacked by the Nazis. Eventually the Nazis left Svalbard, but destroyed Barentsburg, Grumand and Longyearbyen in the process. The towns were rebuilt after the war, and in Longyearbyen it’s possible to see the remains of the town before the war.

    Cold War & the Kings Bay Affair

    Pyramiden, a now abandoned Soviet mining town

    In 1944, the Soviet Union proposed that Svalbard become a condominium under joint Norwegian and Soviet rule. The proposal was discussed in Norway but ultimately rejected.

    Political tension between Norway and the Soviet Union became heated after Norway joined NATO in 1949. The Soviet Union issued memorandums to Norway stating that Svalbard could not be under NATO command, but this was rejcted by Norway.

    21 miners were killed in an accident in Ny-Ålesund, which led to the King’s Bay Affair. Basically, the Kings Bay Mining Company was a coal mining operation based in Ny-Ålesund that was owned by the government. After the miners were killed in an accident, the Norwegian government established an investigatory commission that ended up finding deficiencies in the management of the mine, especially culpability on part of the minister of industry at the time, Kjell Holler. The non-socialist opposition to the Labour Party government demanded that Holler be dismissed, but Prime Minister Einar Gerhardsen claimed that the Kings Bay operations were not accountable to the parliament. Gerhardsen was forced to appear before parliament and answer for his cabinet’s actions. The opposition found unity in proposing a vote of no-confidence to the parliament, claiming that a government that owns a corporation that is mismanaged should be held accountable. This led to the Gerhardsen cabinet resigning.

    Oil drilling was started by Caltex in 1961. They were granted claims based on indications, rather than samples, of oil, which was a privilege not given to the Soviets, leading to strained relations. No commercially viable wells were found.

    Both the Kings Kay Affair and the Caltex Affair initiated public debate about the administration of Svalbard, and in particular the lack of resources and control of Soviet settlments. The Governor of Svalbard increased its activities in Soviet settlements.

    After mining ended in Ny-Ålesund, the Norwegian Polar Institute took a dominant role in converting it to an international research station.

    In 1973, more than half of the archipelago was protected through four national parks, fourteen bird sanctuaries and four nature reserved.

    'Normalisation' & Modern Times

    “Normalisation” was a term coined in the 1970s to transform Longyearbyen from a company town to a regular community. In 1971, the Svalbard Council was established for the Norwegian population.

    The civilian airport at Longyearbyen was built in 1975 and was built to serve both the Norwegian and Soviet towns.

    The 1990s saw a large reduction in Russian activity. Schools were closed in 1994 and children and mothers were sent to the mainland, reducing the population of Barentsburg to 800 and Pyramiden to 600. Pyramiden was abandoned in 1998. From 1990 to 2011, the Russian and Ukrainian population fell from 2,300 to 370, while the Norwegian population increased from 1,100 to 2,000.

    Tourism has emerged as a major livelihood for Svalbard with hotels being built on Spitsbergen from 1995.

    Research and education is also of crucial importance to Svalbard in modern times. Since the 1990s, several high-tech institutes and research centres have established themselves, including the University Centre in Svalbard, the European Incoherent Scatter Scientific Association, the Svalbard Satellite Station, the Svalbard Undersea Cable System, and the Svalbard Global Seed Vault.

    In 2002, the Longyearbyen Community Council was incorporated with many of the same responsibilities as a municipality.

    Today tourism is important to Svalbard and the largest industry on the archipelago, though research still plays an important role for the basis of settlement there. 

    Further Reading

    For a more detailed overview of Svalbard’s history, I recommend reading this document from VisitSvalbard (click here). 

    Svalbard Travel Guide

    Be sure to read my detailed travel guide for Svalbard, including all the settlements and itineraries for different times of the year. 

  • Hammerfest, History, Tromsø, Vardø

    A Brief History of the Pomor Trade

    A Brief History of the Pomor Trade

    When you visit Northern Norway, chances are you’ll come across something called the Pomor Trade. When I first started visiting Finnmark, I would typically disregard any mention of the Pomors as a small part of history here that had little importance. However, after visiting Vardø back in September 2023, I came to realise just how vital the Pomors had been to the development of Northern Norway.

    I’ve put together this article as a short historic overview of the Pomors. Perhaps it’ll benefit your own trip to Northern Norway!

    In this article...

    VARDØ Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    What is a Pomor?

    This took me way too long to figure out. A “Pomor” is actually an ethnographic group that come from Russian settlers from around the region of Novgorod. They came to the White Sea region hundreds of years ago, following the various river systems through Russia. The word ‘Pomor’ derives from the word ‘Pomorsky’ (which means ‘maritime’) and is a word used to describe the coast of the White Sea. 

    Historic Trade Between Russia and Norway & Development of the Pomor Trade

    The people of Norway and Russia have been trading for hundreds of years. In fact, it can be traced back to the Viking Age. The Russians were known to also trade with the Sami people. 

    Trade between Russians and the Norwegians began to come into its modern form when the trade monopoly in Bergen was legalised. Basically, the King said that all foreign merchants had to go to Bergen, and all fishermen had to sell their catch in Bergen. 

    However, for the fishermen this was tough. In the colder months it was no problem as the fish could stay preserved for the long journey, but for a few weeks over the summer the temperatures were too warm and the fish risked going bad.

    The Pomors found a way to exploit this – they could buy the fish directly from the fishermen (back then it was common to go through a middleman, which also drove up prices). It benefitted the fishermen, too – they could sell direct, the fish wouldn’t go bad, and they were able to get supplies from the Pomors without having to all the way to Bergen. Was it a little illegal? Sure. But back then Northern Norway didn’t have much law enforcement, so they were able to get away with it. 

    The beginning of the Pomor Trade and important trade connections

    The beginning of the Pomor Trade is generally regarded to be in the early 18th century, simply because trade began to become more organised. 

    At first, the trade was a barter trade between people in the area, who traded grain products from Russia with fish products from Norway. However, money began to be used in the early 18th century, and in some places in Northern Norway the ruble was used as a currency. Trading with the Pomors also originally had no taxes or customs fees. 

    The trade always involved the Pomors coming to Norway; the Norwegians rarely travelled to Russia. The Pomors would bring wheats and grains, but starting in the 18th century they began bringing rye flour, which was important for the Norwegians and another reason the Pomor trade officially began around that time. The grain was grown inland around the Volga River and then transported along the White Sea. 

    The trade of grain was vital for the Norwegians as it doesn’t grow along the coast. Also, in Norway in the 18th century there were several crop failures and the price of rye in Bergen increased fivefold. For the fishermen, having the Pomors come directly to them and selling the grains and flour at good prices was essential for survival. 

    In addition to rye and wheat flour, the Pomors carried other food, such as oatmeal, salt, peas, meat and dairy products. Other useful merchandise was also carried, such as iron, timber, tar, birch bark, candles, cooking pots, hemp, rope and canvas. They also brought luxury products, such as candy, soap, porcelain and wood carvings.

    From the Norwegians they would take fish of various sorts, mainly Atlantic cod and dry saithe, but also Atlantic halibut and haddock.

    Where did they trade?

    The main centre of the Pomor Trade in Norway was Vardø, which is located close to the Russian border. The harbour in Vardø could at times have over 100 Russian vessels moored simultaneously, and the town had a Russian consulate. 

    Other towns that were important for the Pomors include Hamningberg (a now abandoned fishing village) and Hammerfest, though the Pomors did trade in other places like Vadsø and Kjøllefjord. Tromsø gained trading privileges a few years later and was given the monopoly for trading with the Pomors in the region of Troms. Eventually the Pomors were trading as far south as the Lofoten Islands. 

    In Russia, the city of Arkangelsk was the centre of Pomor Trade, and it was founded in 1584 as a trade centre for the White Sea. 

    Arkangelsk 1896

    Attempts at Regulation

    As the Pomor Trade grew somewhat illegally, when Norwegian sovereignty was enforced over Northern Norway, there began to be attempts to control the Pomor Trade. 

    Already back in 1316 the King of the time, King Håkon V, prevented foreigners from trading in Northern Norway. All foreign ships had to stop in Bergen. 

    Until the Reformation in 1537, the trade between the North and the Hanseatic League in Bergen was controlled by the archbishop in Trondheim. After the Reformation, the privileges of trade were handed from the church to the citizens of Bergen and Trondheim, giving them a monopoly. 

    There are reports of Russians trading illegally from the 17th century onwards. If the Russians and Norwegians were caught trading outside of Bergen, the Norwegians would be denied winter supplies from Norwegian traders. This lasted until 1715. 

    In the late 18th century, trade was placed under control of the King and trading houses of Copenhagen. In 1783 the government in Copenhagen decided that the Pomor Trade should be somewhat legalised, and that North Norwegians should get their grain from the Russians rather than Denmark. The Danish King Christian VII gave Vardø, Hammerfest and Tromsø status of trading towns in order to regulate the Pomor trade better. 

    However, there was one thing in the way. The fact that the Pomors could trade freely with the fishermen was bad for the government, who were missing out on their precious taxes. So, it was made illegal. Eventually it was made legal again, but the Pomors could only trade directly with fishermen in the short weeks where the warm climate makes it difficult to preserve fish. 

    Napoleonic Wars

    The Pomor Trade was targeted by the British during the Napoleonic Wars. During the Gunboat War, the United Kingdom put a trade embargo on Denmark-Norway. This made the Pomor Trade almost essential for survival for the North Norwegians, and they got a special decree legalising direct trade between the Pomors and fishermen in 1809. 

    During the Anglo-Russian War, the British government established a blockade along the Norwegian coast. One of their goals was to stop the Pomor Trade and cut off supply lines of goods from Arkangelsk. The Norwegians responded by fortifying the important harbours, such as Hammerfest. In 1810, the Norwegians established a special naval squadron called “The Finnmark Squadron” to protect the Pomor Trade.

    However, despite all this the British did manage to bomb and heavily damage Hammerfest. 

    The Golden Age and Rapid End

    Throughout the 19th century the conditions in Norway began to improve and the dependence on grain from Russia began to decline. Eventually the trade privileges and rules were lifted in 1870, and the Pomors were more or less free to come as they please. These lighter regulations led to the Pomors modernising their vessels and by 1870, 400 Russian Pomor vessels visited Tromsø. Normally 300 vessels would visit all of Norway in one year. By 1900, Russia was Norway’s fourth most important trade partner, and rye flour remained the most important commodity. After 1910, less flour was traded, and the Russians paid for the fish with money instead. 

    Things sounded like they were going well, but everything ended abruptly in 1917, when the Russian Revolution ended all trade. This had understandable negative effects on the economy of Northern Norway, especially for the coastal communities as the fishermen no longer had the possibility to see their summer catch. Some Russian vessels still did come. The last vessel came in 1929, when Joseph Stalin’s collectivization came into full effect, ending private property rights and persecuting merchants. 

    Lasting impact of the Pomors

    It’s important to not understate the lasting effect the Pomor Trade had on the coastal communities in Northern Norway. Many of the villages along the Finnmark coast developed in the 19th century thanks to the Pomor Trade, and were able to afford luxuries they otherwise wouldn’t get. It also led to a good relationship between the two countries, and in 1875 there was even a regular steamship service between Arkangelsk and Vardø. This allowed for Russian tourism and seasonal workers in Finnmark. 

    Often the same Pomor vessels would visit the same place year after year, and the Norwegians got to know the crew. The Russians and the trade with them had high esteem in Northern Norway and they were known for being friendly. The people of Northern Norway also got an insight into a difficult culture and it in turn affected Norwegian culture. 

    Lastly, and also perhaps most interesting, a pidgin language developed between the Pomors and the North Norwegians called Russenorsk. Russenorsk has a restricted grammar mostly related to Arctic fishing and trading. You can find some examples of Russenorsk on Wikipedia: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Russenorsk

    Where to go from here

    If you want to learn more about the Pomor Trade, visit the city of Vardø, which is home to the Pomor Museum. The city also has wooden warehouses still standing from the Pomor time. You can read about Vardø on our travel guide page. 

    VARDØ Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Please leave any questions or comments below!

  • History, Vardø

    The Witchcraft Trials of Vardø

    The Witchcraft Trials of Vardø

    The Vardø witch trials are regarded as some of the most brutal, intense and dramatic witch trials in Scandinavian history. It’s hard to believe a small community in the far north of Norway would see many people accused and convicted of witchcraft. In total, 150 people were executed for sorcery in Northern Norway between 1621 and 1663, before legal security and administration became better organised in 1666 (a fitting date, really). It is said that at times there were no families in Finnmark who were not affected by the witchcraft trials, either as prosecutors, witnesses, or convicts.

    In this article...

    Varanger Tourist Road

    Vardø is located on the E75, also known as the Varanger Tourist Road. You can find my guide to the E76 by clicking the link below. 

    The E75 Highway
    Vardø Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Norway's Coastal Ferry

    Vardø is a port of call of Norway’s coastal ferry. Find my guide for the coastal ferry by clicking the link below. 

    Norway's Coastal Ferry

    Perceptions of Witchcraft in Northern Europe

    The new law of sorcery and witchcraft for the union of Denmark and Norway was issued and announced in Finnmark in 1620.

    At the time, Northern Norway was a place with lacking centralised law enforcement, so the local authorities had a great deal of power. These officials were typically not Norwegian but often men from Scotland, Germany and Denmark, countries with a history of witch trials. They brought their ideas of witchcraft and sorcery to the north, and it greatly influenced life in the Arctic. In Europe, religious experts often claimed that “the evil came from the North”, the home of the Sami people. Since the Sami people were not Christian and followed a shamanistic religion, they were also often considered to be practicing witchcraft.

    The officials believed they had been placed there to correct the population according to the Protestant religion. They painted the Sami as magicians and disapproved of Norwegian women along the coast being home for months when their husbands were out fishing, suspecting them of committing adultery with demons.

    Additionally, the Dutch and other European merchants would sail between Vardøhus and Russia to trade and warned their countrymen of the dangers of Satan, and it was believed the haunts and devils flew through the wicked winds of the north. Witches could conjure up mighty whirlwinds, poor weather, fog, thunder and lightning.

    The ordeal of water is how many women would be tested if they were a witch. Basically, they would be tied up and thrown into water. If they sank, they were innocent and died. If they floated, they were a witch and were then burned at the stake.

    The Three Waves of Witchcraft Trials in Vardø

    There were three major phases of the Vardø witch trials: 1621, 1651 and 1663. Let’s break down each one and try to understand the historic significance of the witchcraft trials.

    The Witch Trials of 1621

    The witch trials of 1621 begins with a big storm in 1617 that sunk ten boats and killed forty men. The storm was completely out of nowhere and took the men by surprise. It clearly had an effect on the town.

    Kiberg

    The trial took place at Vardøhus Fortress in 1621. Mari Jørgensdatter, a woman from Kiberg, was interrogated under torture. She confessed that Satan had come to her in Christmas 1620 and asked her to follow him to her neighbour, Kirsti Sørensdatter. He asked if she would serve him, and she said yes. They went to Kristi and together the women flew to the mountain Lyderhorn in Bergen, over 1,600km away, to attend the Sabbath with the devil. On top of Lyderhorn they went to Satan’s Christmas Party with dance and drink, and then flew back to Finnmark, though Kirsti decided to take the long way home by sea. Lyderhorn is mentioned in many witchcraft trials as a place where the women would meet with the devil.

    Vardohus Fortress, where many of the witchcraft trials took place.

    Mari confessed that the witches had caused the great storm, and that they had sexual intercourse with devils while the men were at sea. Another woman being interrogated, Else Knutsdatter, confirmed that the witches had tied a fishing rope three times, spat at it and untied it, after which “the sea rose like ashes and people were killed”. Else was seen in the company of demons and was exposed to the ordeal of water.

    Kirsti Sørensdatter was confirmed by many of the women to be the leader. She was arrested when she arrived back from Bergen via ship. Kirsti was married to a wealthy merchant Anders Johanssen from Helsingør in Denmark, where it was said she learned sorcery from an old woman. Under torture, she confirmed everything. Kirsti was sentence to be burned alive at the stake on 28 April 1621.

    That was the end of the first wave of witchcraft trials.

    The Witch Trials of 1651

    This phase in witchcraft resulted in the death of 17 women by burning. It centred around women having caused – or attempted – to have caused ship wrecks by use of witchcraft.

    The Witch Trials of 1662-63

    The final phase of witchcraft trials is considered to be one of the biggest in Scandinavia. Thirty women were put on trial, accused of sorcery and making pacts with the devil. One was sentenced to a work house, two tortured to death, and eighteen were burned alive at the stake. The trial centred around the belief that the women had been partying with the Devil. To be honest, the parties with the Devil actually sound quite nice. But that’s not the point. The parties took place on a mountain called Domen, which overlooks the town of Vardø.

    The mountain Domen, seen from Vardø, where women supposedly met with the devil.

    It started with Dorthe Lauritzdatter was brought in to Vardøhus Fortress for questioning. Local man Lauritz Braas claimed that two of his servants, who had recently died, claimed to have been bewitched by her. Four witches led by Dorthe in the shape of a dove, eagle, crow and swan were to have opened their “wind-knots” over the sea to make a boat sink, but the plot failed because the crew prayed to God. Dorthe was burned at the stake.

    The next was Ingeborg Iversdatter, who confessed during an interrogation on 26 January 1663 that she and Sølve Nilsdatter had celebrated Christmas on Kiberg. They had transformed themselves into cats and crawled under a gate to meet Maren Olsdatter and Sirgi Klockare, who were incarcerated for witchcraft. They broke into a basement and drank lots of wine while Satan held a candle for them. Sølve had drunk so much that Satan had a hard time getting her on her feet and back to jail. The priest of the fortress pointed out that this must have been the reason why alcohol disappeared from the basement. Sølve later confessed to the giant witches sabbath that had taken place on the Dovrefjell mountains in southern Norway, where witches had arrived in the shapes of dogs and cats to drink and dance with Satan.

    Maren has a sad story. When she was twelve, her mother was executed for sorcery. She had been taken care by her aunt for several years before her aunt was also burned. Maren was interrogated and she claimed to have visited Hell, where she was given a tour by Satan. She later visited a sabbath on Domen, where Satan played dancing music on a red violin and gave the witches beer before following each of them home personally. The court asked her who she had seen there, and she gave the names of five women. All the women Maren mentioned were burned to death in Vardø on 20 March 1663.

    The last accused witches were brought in on 25 June 1663. Maren told the court that she had been forced to lie against other people, denouncing them for witch craft. She said that the now-exiled Anne Rhodius had forced her to do it. The court sentenced Maren for having lied and to stay for some time in the work house in Bergen. However, it is likely she didn’t do that as there is documentation that she lived in Vardø after 1663.

    The End of the Trials

    The trials ended thanks to Mandrup Pedersen Schønnebøl, who was a judge.He saw the madness of burning people alive on the basis of rumours and opposed public opinion by destroying the legal basis for burning accused witches. In 1687, a requirement for judgements in witchcraft cases to be heard at parliament before a death sentence could be carried out became law. Norway’s last known witch execution took place in 1695.

    Steilneset Memorial

    In Vardø you can visit Steilneset Memorial, which opened in 2011 to commemorate the victims of the witchcraft trials. The memorial was jointly commissioned by the town of Vardø, Finnmark County, the Varanger Museum and the Norwegian Public Roads Administration as part of the development of the National Tourist Routes in Norway. The memorial was designed by French-American artist Louise Bourgeois and Swiss architect Peter Zumthor. The long timber walkway has 91 randomly placed windows representing those executed, each one accompanied by a text explaining each person. The second building has a metal chair with perpetual flames projecting through its seat.

    The attraction is open 24-7 and is free. When you step inside, be sure to look by the door. They have booklets with English translations of all the womens testimonies.

    Recommended Reading

    The witchcraft trials of Vardø are the basis for a book called The Mercies by Kiran Millwood Hargrave. It tells the story of the trials in Vardø through the eyes of Ursa, the new wife of a Scottish witch hunter, who leaves her Bergen childhood home for the wilds of Finnmark.

    You can see the book on Amazon here: https://www.amazon.com/Mercies-Kiran-Millwood-Hargrave/dp/0316529257

    Varanger Tourist Road

    Vardø is located on the E75, also known as the Varanger Tourist Road. You can find my guide to the E76 by clicking the link below. 

    The E75 Highway
    Vardø Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Norway's Coastal Ferry

    Vardø is a port of call of Norway’s coastal ferry. Find my guide for the coastal ferry by clicking the link below. 

    Norway's Coastal Ferry
  • History, Oslo, Walking Guides

    Oslo’s Historic City Centre: The Ruins of Gamle Oslo

    Walking around Gamle Oslo

    One of my favourite places to walk in Oslo is around the neighbourhood of Gamle Oslo. Located between the modern ‘Barcode’ district and the scenic Ekeberg Sculpture Park, Gamle Oslo is a mixed bag of a neighbourhood. It has scattered apartment buildings, small shops and cafes, is close to the multicultural Grønland neighbourhood (see my separate walk on that here) and is currently a bit of a construction site thanks to the railway and tram lines going through it.

    If you are looking for somewhere a little more ‘off the beaten path’, I can’t recommend Gamle Oslo enough. The ruins are interesting to walk around, and it makes for a nice walk away from the hustle and bustle of the city centre.

    Here’s my guide to the various remains at Gamle Oslo.

    In this article...

    Oslo Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Oslo's History (A Brief Overview)

    If you are looking for a detailed overview of Oslo’s city history, I would recommend reading my separate article (click here). But, in the context of Gamle Oslo, here is a short overview.

    Basically, Gamle Oslo is the place where the first settlement of Oslo was. According to the Icelandic Sagas, Oslo was founded by King Harald Hardråde around the year 1050 because of the good supplies and close proximity to the big rival, Denmark. However, the settlement has been excavated and remains back to the 9th century have been found. Oslo was likely an urban centre by the end of the Viking Age.

    Oslo was an important port and marketplace. It was also the centre of power and religion for Eastern Norway and stood as a base for a number of Norwegian Kings. Because of this, King Håkon V moved the capital from Bergen to Oslo in 1314, building Akershus Fortress and initiating a number of important construction projects in Oslo town centre, such as the stone cathedrals (they were previously wooden), the new royal court, and the bishop’s residence. Dominican and Franciscan monasteries were constructed in the town.

    Oslo’s decline began around the time of the Black Death and subsequent Kalmar Union. By the time of the Reformation, the city was in disrepair. The Reformation also broke the independence of the Norwegian Church and its position as a factor of economic power, and it strengthened Denmark’s control over Norway. Some buildings in Oslo remained important, such as Akershus Fortress, but the town was less so.

    The end of Oslo’s old town was in 1624, when a large fire swept through the town. It was common for medieval towns to have fire; after all, they were dense wooden settlements and people depended on fire for cooking, heating and lighting. It is believed that Oslo had 18 city fires between 1080 and 1567, and the city was rebuilt just as many times on the same site, where the cellars and foundations remained in tact. The fire of 1624 destroyed most of the residential buildings. The contents of the Hallvard Cathedral were destroyed, though the stone walls remained. Oslo Hospital. Oslo’s Bishop’s Residence and the Oslo Cathedral School all survived the fire.

    The Danish King Christian IV decided that rather than rebuilding the city, it should be moved west closer to Akershus Fortress. Residents were given plots of land for free and the new buildings were to be constructed of stone (they ended up being constructed in wood, leading to more fires). The new city was to be called Christiania, after the King. I have a self-guided walk for Christian IV’s Oslo, which you can read by clicking here.

    What happened to the old town? Not much. Parts of it were converted to agricultural land for farmers, while others sat in ruins for over one hundred years. The interest in the old town only came in the late 19th/early 20th centuries, when the first excavations were carried out. 

    Today much of the area has been heritage-protected and converted into park area, while some of the ruins remain under the modern roads and apartments. There is work now on restoring and preserving more of the ruins, but it’s still an ongoing conversation in Oslo. 

    Defining Gamle Oslo

    Today the ruins are located in the neighbourhood Gamle Oslo and are roughly bound by Hovinbekken in the north, the original course of the Alna River in the south and east, and the waterfront at the Medieval Park in the west. The Franciscan monastery (partly covered by Gamlebyen church and Oslo Hospital) just east of Alna is also considered part of the medieval town.

    Sites Around Gamle Oslo

    The Medieval Park

    Middelalderparken

    The walk begins at the Medieval Park, which is located just across from the Barcode modern construction buildings. The park opened in 2000 after a large excavation project, and the waterfront was recreated to represent where the original waterfront of Oslo would’ve been. 

    Today development in the area is prohibited due to ruins and cultural layers above and below the ground.

    The Alna River had its outlet where the southern side of the park is located today. In connection with the construction of the Follobanen, which opened in December 2022, the river will again be diverted here.

    It is possible to walk along the waterfront. There are two ruins here of particular interest. 

    Mariakirken

    St. Mary's Church

    Like almost all the churches at Gamle Oslo, St. Mary’s Church was probably first built as a small wooden church around the 11th century. Also like the other churches, it was rebuilt as a stone church. 

    St. Mary’s was expanded two more times: in the 13th century with the construction of a Gothic choir and then again int he 14th century with brick extensions. After its final renovation, it was believed to have been one of the most magnificent churches in Norway.

    The church had an important role in the function of Norway’s national government up until the Reformation. The church was the chancellor for the Kingdom of Norway and keeper of the great seal. The chancellor was the only permanent institution in the national government with a seat in Norway and functioned as state administration in medieval Norway. The clergy of St. Mary’s had a high rank in the worldly aristocracy from 1300. 

    Additionally, some of the Norwegian Royals were buried here, such as King Håkon V (who moved the capital to Oslo) and Queen Eufemia. This was also the church where they married. 

    The church was set on fire by the Swedes in connection with an attack in 1523, and by the time of the Reformation the church was so dilapidated that it could not be repaired. It was demolished in 1542 and the land was used for agriculture.

    Excavations of the church were carried out in 1867, 1935 and 1961. 

    Kongsgården

    Royal Residence of Oslo

    Hidden behind the brick building are the remains of the Oslo Royal Residence. Archaeological excavations show that the buildings were constructed around the time of King Harald Hardråde, who founded Oslo. It was likely a wooden building but was converted to a stone one under King Håkon V. 

    Remains of a circular moat have been interpreted as a type of fortification similar to ones found in France and the British Isles. German and English coins dated from between 1040 and 1060 were found in the sandy banks of the moat. 

    Kongsgården was used until the Late Middle Ages but fell into disrepair as Akershus Fortress became the main administrative centre and royal residence. 

    Make your way back up to the main road after this. The rest of the ruins are located within close proximity of Oslo Torg. 

    Saxegården

    Manor House

    Tucked away behind the apartment buildings is a small wooden house. This is Saxegården, a manor house that can be traced back to the medieval times. Beneath half the house is a vaulted stone cellar from the late Middle Ages. The property is one of the few medieval manor houses in Oslo where the location can be determined with 100% certainty. it is named after the Saxe family, a Norwegian noble family. The current wooden building is from around the year 1800. 

    Clemenskirken

    Clements Church

    Clemens Church is likely one of the first churches to be constructed in Oslo as it is believed that Oslo’s first urban structure began around where the church stood. The oldest avenue in Oslo was called Clemensallmenningen. It is believed that the Danish King Harald Bluetooth (yes, that Bluetooth) constructed the church. He was Denmark’s first real King and had Oslo as a base for missionary and military advances in Norway. 

    Several Scandinavian churches were dedicated to the patron saint of seafarers, St. Clemens. The original church was constructed in wood, but was replaced as a stone building around the year 1100.

    The layout of the church is unique: it is one of the very few churches in Norway with a two nave ground plan. Remains of what is one of Norway’s oldest cemeteries have been found under and around the church, with the oldest graves being from around 980 AD. This suggests that there was a well-established Christian community around the year 1000. 

    The church went out of use after the Reformation and was left in ruins. 

    Bispegata

    Street

    This is where the medieval avenue called Bispeallmenningen ran. During excavations in 1954, the original street was found in multiple layers between 1.5 metres and 4 metres below the current surface, and three wooden bridges were found. 

    Oslo Ladegård

    Oslo Bishop's Residence

    During the Middle Ages, Oslo Ladegård was the residence of the bishop. It was one of the city’s most important political centres of gravity until the Reformation removed power from the Church. 

    The current house is from 1725 but is built on the remains of a manor house from earlier times. This is where King James of Scotland (or James I of England) and Princess Anna were married in 1589. In the basement are remains of the bishop’s residence from the 13th century. 

    Oslo Torg

    Oslo Square

    The large road junction is where the site of Oslo Torg stood. It was the medieval city’s Roman Forum and meeting place for the King and his men. It is where Oslo’s earliest court stood. 

    It is believed that Oslo Torg was triangular, similar to the medieval square in Lund’s old town in Sweden. 

    The main function of the square was as a market. Goods from the port would be brought up here. Additionally, farmer’s from around Oslo would come here to sell their goods. Food was primarily traded, such as grain, flour, butter, cheese, vegetables, fish, and products from domestic animals. There was also toilet paper (which back then was moss), cotton wool, wooden tools, and other items for the home. Foreign retailers also came here, such as the Hanseatic League. 

    Oslo Torg was also the site of Norway’s only winter market, which was held every year at Lent. 

    The position of the market began to disappear in the 18th century as other roads were being constructed. In the 1960s, a six-lane motorway was built over the square, and now the entire square and parts of the bishops castle are underneath the motorway. 

    Minneparken

    Memorial Park

    Now we’ll visit Minneparken, which is where a number of ruins from Oslo are located. 

    Hallvardskatedralen

    St. Hallvard Cathedral

    It is believed that King Sigurd Jorsdalfare began construction of the cathedral in the early 12th century. The cathedral is named after Oslo’s patron saint Hallvard, who was shot when he tried to save an innocent, pregnant woman accused of theft. The body of St. Hallvard was moved from its original location at Lier and enshrined in a silver casket that was placed on the high altar. 

    The most important parts of the church were completed in 1130, when King Sigurd was buried in the south wall of the choir. 

    Hallvard Cathedral was Eastern Norway’s religious centre for over 500 years. It was the coronation church, royal wedding church, royal burial chapel, and one of Scandinavia’s most visited pilgrimage destinations. 

    The style of the cathedral was unique. The builders took inspiration from the south and east of Europe, and it’s believed the present-day Gamle Aker Church was modelled after Hallvard Cathedral. 

    After the fire of 1624, Hallvard Cathedral was still standing and must’ve been in good condition as it remained as the main church for Eastern Norway until 1639, when the Holy Trinity Church in the new part of Oslo was completed. After this, Hallvard Cathedral fell into disrepair and in 1696 was demolished. It now became a quarry for Akershus Fortress, while some of the stone was used in the construction of Oslo Cathedral. One of the stones from Hallvard Cathedral can be seen on the corner of the tower of Oslo Cathedral today. Additionally, two of Oslo Cathedral’s four bells are from Hallvard Cathedral. Some items from the cathedral have been preserved in museums. For example, in the University of Oslo’s Antiquity Collection there is an altar cross from the 13th century. 

    In the 1770s, the gravestones (which dated from 1130 to 1660) were removed as filling material and road surface.

    The first excavation took place in 1835. At the beginning of the 1920s, the whole ruin came to light. However, in the 1960s part of the cathedral was covered by concrete to allow for the expansion of Bispegata. 

    Olavsklosteret

    St. Olav Monastery

    Located next to the ruins of the Hallvard Cathedral is the Olav Monastery. The monastery was built in 1240 next to the Olav Church. They had a herb garden north of the monastery and a pond, both of which were restored in 1929. After the Reformation, the monastery was converted to a bishop’s residence.

    The current Oslo bishopric is located in the building built on the eastern ruins. The western ruins were only uncovered in the 1950s. 

    Korskirken

    Cross Church

    The last ruins in Minneparken are of Korskirken, a small parish church located on the northern boundary of Oslo. It is not known when the church was built and it is not mentioned in written documents about a famous battle in Oslo in 1240. However, in 1989 a rune stick was found dating to the first half of the 13th century, and it mentions Korskirken. 

    A Little Further Away...

    If you want to explore more of Old Oslo, there are more remains scattered around the neighbourhood. Here they are. 

    Nonneseter Klosteret

    Nonneseter Monastery

    Nonneseter Monastery was constructed around 1150 and was a Benedictine convent for nuns dedicated to the Holy Mary. The monastery was mentioned for the first time in 1161. Snorre Sturlason refers to the monastery in Håkon Herdebrei’s saga when he describes the Battle of Ekeberg.

    Nonnester Monastery was one of the largest landowners in Norway, owning 272 farms in Eastern Norway. The monastery existed for some time after the Reformation, but it was confiscated in 1547 and given to Akershus Fortress. It eventually fell into disrepair and was demolished in 1616.

    The remains were discovered when the building at Scheiwgaards gate 50 was built in 1887.

    Today the remains of the monastery can be found under the ground beneath the properties at Schweigaards gate 55 and Grønlandsleiret 73.

    Oslo Hospital

    This is the site of Norway’s oldest hospital. However, it didn’t start out as a hospital. This site was originally a Franciscan monastery that was established here under King Håkon V. 

    After the Reformation, the monastery was handed over to the city and turned into a hospital. The hospital operation was based on the work of the Franciscans: the Gray Friars carried out targeted care work for lepers and others of the city’s weakest. It eventually became a psychiatric hospital and remained as such until 2018, when it closed. 

    The buildings burned in 1567, and the monastery church remained standing until 1794. It was then replaced by the Gamlebyen church, which was built partly on top of the ruins of the old church. 

    The oldest building on the property is the Gråsteinbygningen (Grey Stone Building), which was erected in 1737 using several types of stone from Ekebrg, including limestone, clay, slate and gneiss. 

    Gamlebygen Church is a privately owned church located on the property. The first church was built here at the end of the 13th century and was one of the first buildings in Oslo to be built of brick. After the Reformation, the church was also converted into a hospital. The church was destroyed by Swedes in 1567 and has since been rebuilt many times. The last time it was rebuilt was in 1939. 

    Galgeberg

    Gallows Hill

    Just north of Gamle Oslo is the neighbourhood Galgeberg. This name gives away what it used to be – Gallows Hill. In the Middle Ages, the area was a place for public executions and the gallows stood here. 

    The road the gallows stood on was part of the most important road network out of Oslo towards the north. 

    The gallows stood in a courtyard where the residential complex Galgeberg 3 is. The flagpole marks the specific spot. 

    Close by is a small street called Justiskroken, which is believed to have been where the executioner lived. A small wooden house stands here and is from the middle of the 18th century.

    You can read about the last execution of Galgeberg here: https://www.dagsavisen.no/oslo/byhistorie/2021/10/08/da-det-siste-hodet-rullet-pa-galgeberg/

    Oslo Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide
  • Eidfjord, Hardangerfjord, History, Kinsarvik, Norway, Utne

    Hidden Secrets at Historic Kinsarvik Church

    Hidden Secrets at Historic Kinsarvik Church

    When driving along Highway 13 between Eidfjord and Odda, you’ll pass through the village of Kinsarvik. You wouldn’t really know it was a village, let alone an important Viking-era settlement, because it has now been transformed into something of a holiday park with water activities for kids and cabins to rent. But look a little closer and you’ll see a stone church down by the water. This is one of the oldest churches in the region and hints at the historic importance of Kinsarvik.

    I find the Kinsarvik church fascinating. Tucked away by the fjord, this small unassuming church carries almost 1,000 years of history. So, when you are doing your road-trip, be sure to stop by the church and admire its uniqueness!

    Here is some information about the Kinsarvik Church.

    The Rv13 Highway

    Kinsarvik is located on the Rv13 highway. You can find my guide to the Rv13 by clicking the link below. 

    The Rv13 Highway
    Eidfjord Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    In this article...

    The Earliest Church

    Kinsarvik Church is the oldest stone church in the Hardanger region and used to function as the main church for the region. It is strategically located at the junction of the Hardangerfjord and the Sørfjorden, which leads to Odda, so locals could row their boats into Kinsarvik and attend church.

    The earliest records of the church date back to 1298, but the church wasn’t built then. The stone church isn’t even the first church on the site; it’s believed a wooden church stood here around 1050. The wooden church was likely a ‘post church’, which is the predecessor to the stave church. The difference between them is that the post church has its beams going directly into the ground, while stave churches rest on stone foundations. Post churches don’t survive anymore because, well, putting posts directly into the ground meant the wood would rot. Stave churches are an evolution of the post church in that regard because the stone protects the wood from rotting.

    The stone church was built to replace the old wooden church around 1160, and remains of the wooden church have been found underneath. Building in stone was very expensive and only reserved for churches of importance. Think of Stavanger, Bergen, Trondheim and Oslo with their well-preserved stone churches. These were all major cities. So, using stone at Kinsarvik indicates that this was an important place.

    Romanesque details at Kinsarvik Church

    Church Style

    The church is built in a Romanesque style with a rectangular nave, and the foundation walls are about 1.5m (4ft 11 inches) wide.

    Archaeological excavations have found there was a fire in the church around the year 1180. This was around the time of the Norwegian Civil War, and there were two major groups – the Birkebeiner and the Bagler – fighting against each other. It is documented that the Birkeners ravaged the area, so it may be them who caused the fire.

    The choir was built after the fire, likely around the 13th century.

    Kinsarvik Church

    Exterior Detailing

    If you look at the church, you’ll notice that all of the portals, window openings and walls have been retained from the Middle Ages.

    Something that is curious is the window high up on the west gable. It is a window leading up to the church attic. It is here that they used to hoist the local ship sails and masts to store during the winters.

    Renovation

    The church had its last major renovation in 1880 during a time when ancient Norwegian sites were being restored to their former appearance. At Kinsarvik Church, much of the old furniture was removed and the church went back to its medieval feel.

    Inside the Church

    The church has many unique interior qualities. The first is the large number of cavities that can be found in the church walls. There were used as places to hide valuables, but Kinsarvik Church has an unusually high number. Considering Kinsarvik used to be a Viking settlement, maybe they had to deal with regular raids?

    Kinsarvik Church

    Another important item inside the church is the antemensalet (decorations in front of the altar). The one at Kinsarvik Church is considered one of the most valuable paintings of North European medieval art. It shows the saviour on the cross and the crucifixion, and above the cross is written “Jesus of Nazareth, King of the Jews”. Around the edge is “Neither of God nor man is this image, as you see. But it is an image of both God and man”. The painter was bad at Latin and made several mistakes. The original can be see at the Cultural History Museum in Bergen, but a copy is inside the church.

    Kinsarvik Church

    However, my favourite part of the interior of the church is the artwork on the walls. I’ve been lucky enough to go inside Kinsarvik Church, and I was taken away by the interior artwork. The church used to be whitewashed, but someone scraped away some of the plaster. A piece of painting from the Middle Ages came to light.

    The painting on the south wall shows a bishop and is painted from floor to ceiling. Meanwhile, on the north wall, there is the archangel Michael. Underneath is a devil who is trying to tip the scales over to their side with a boat shake.

    Michael and the weight of the soul were a common motif in Danish chalk painting in the Middle Ages, but this is the only one of its kind in Norway. I remember the priest telling us that he wished they’d remove it because modern churchgoers don’t exactly want to see a giant devil, but I kind of hope they keep it!

    Kinsarvik Church

    Church Legends

    There is a prediction that the church will collapse during a service. This almost happened on the 7th of May 1865, right after Reverend Irgrens had finished his sermon the church began to shake. Cracks in the walls widened and chalk sprinkled down from the walls. People panicked and tried to get out, and some were injured (though not seriously). The pastor then used it to give a speech that no one can escape from Gods will.

    Another event that happened here was in December 1793, when a major flood hit the region. At Kinsarvik Church, a large part of the cemetery was washed away by water and the coffins floated out into the fjord. Legend says that the Engel Simonson Ringøy, who died in 1739, floated ashore in his boat dock on Ringøy. The coffins were brought back in and placed under the floor of the church. Under the floor of the choir is a crypt where parish priest Løgit, his wife and children lie.

    Visiting Kinsarvik Church

    Unfortunately the church is not usually open to the public, but they do host special concerts and events there. Otherwise, it is possible to park by the church and admire it from the outside.

    You can view events on their website here: https://ullensvang.kyrkjer.no/Kyrkjelydane/Kinsarvik

    As you can see, Kinsarvik Church is a fascinating historic building that is tucked away in this resort village.

    It’s easy to visit here if you are taking the ferry across to Utne – the ferry is about a 1 minute walk from the church. Click here for my article about Utne.

    Have you visited the church? Let me know in the comments!

    The Rv13 Highway

    Kinsarvik is located on the Rv13 highway. You can find my guide to the Rv13 by clicking the link below. 

    The Rv13 Highway
    Eidfjord Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide