History

  • Gudbrandsdalen, History, Walking Guides

    Following in the Footsteps of Edvard Munch in Vågå

    Following in the Footsteps of Edvard Munch in Vågå

    When on a road trip through Norway, it’s worth trying to stop in as many small towns as possible. Each one is unique in their way, and each one has some treasures to uncover. Vågåmo, or Vågå, is on the E15 highway that links you between Oslo and Geiranger in the summer months, via the famous Lom village and close to the Sognefjellet Scenic Road. Vågå is one end of the Valdresflye Scenic Road, which gives you a close look at the Jotunheimen National Park. Vågå is well known for its wealth of outdoor activities, but they aren’t for everyone. If you’re looking for something a little different, you can do the Edvard Munch self-guided walk.

    In this article...

    Vågåmo Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Edvard Munch & Vågå

    Yes, Edvard Munch is linked to Vågå. Edvard is, of course, Norway’s most famous painter. He is so famous that they’ve rebuilt the Munch Museum in Oslo as this dominating skyscraper over the city skyline. It is officially the largest building dedicated to one artist. Norway is proud of Edvard, that much is clear. But Edvard isn’t exclusive to Oslo; in Vågå you can find sites that draw connections to the famous artist. This is because his family is from Vågå.

    When walking through Vågå, you’ll get to learn about Edvard’s interest in his heritage, plus what the Munch’s did here. His father’s side came from Vågå, and when Edvard was a young man, he came here to learn more about his ancestry. He maintained a close relationship to Vågå throughout his life and visited several times.

    When I visited Vågå after finishing the Valdresflye Scenic Road in September 2020, I did the Edvard Munch self-guided walk. I’ll be honest, I find the town’s connection to Edvard Munch a little thin. Still, I love the town for its history and heritage. Through Edvard Munch, they’ve made a real effort to preserve their old buildings and the stories of his ancestors. That’s the part I loved about this walk; getting to learn about real people who lived here and see the old buildings. The walk is an excellent overview of Vågå, so even if you aren’t interested in Edvard Munch it’s well worth doing.

    In this article, I’ve included information about both Vågå and Munch’s connection to Vågå. It’s a short walk – 1.3km – so if you find yourself in Vågå, I recommend taking the time to explore the town.

    The Munch connection to Vågå

    Edvard Munch was born near Hamar, but his parents came from Kristiania (Oslo). To find his connection to Vågå, we have to go back to his grandparents and great grandparents on his father’s side, who lived in the town.

    Christine Munch

    His great grandfather was Peder Sørensen Munch, who was a pastor at Vågå Church. Sadly there isn’t much information on him today, but his wife is much more known. She was Edvard’s great grandmother, and her name is Christine Storm Munch. She had a herb garden at the Ullinsvin vicarage. Christine is the main family member you’ll hear about on the walk. The audio guide is even based on her stories.

    Christine (1747-1825) was a well-known knowledgable and accomplished woman. She governed Ullinsvin in the last part of the 18th century. Christine grew and collected healing herbs and spices in the vicarage’s garden. She was well known for helping sick villagers with her natural remedies. Before cookbooks were common, she wrote hundreds of pages of recipes.

    Another well-known Munch is Edvard Storm (1749-1794), the half-brother of Christine. He grew up at Ullinsvin and wrote folk songs in the Vågå dialect. They are still sung by folk singers today. He is a famous poet and many of his poems are characteristic of Norwegian national romanticism.

    Edvard's Interest in Vågå

    Why the interest in Vågå? Edvard suffered a lot of loss in his family when he was growing up. That likely piqued his interest in learning about his ancestors. His father had told him stories about his family in Vågå. The town was considered a key place for the family on his father’s side. Everyone in the family felt a need to visit Vågå Church and Ullinsvin vicarage. So, Edvard did. He visited first as a young man and returned several times throughout his life. It’s believed he drew inspiration from the landscape as well as some of the paintings in Vågå Church.

    Vågå Church

    Vågå Church is the first stop on the self-guided walk. The walk begins in the town square, where you’ll see a large ‘The Scream’ poster that you can pose in! Still, I’ll begin my guide with the church.

    There’s a lot of misinformation online about the church. Many tourism websites define the church as either “one of the oldest wooden churches in Norway” or as “one of the oldest stave churches in Norway”. Neither is true.

    Vågå Church was built in the 17th century, using parts of a stave church that was considered one of the oldest stave churches in the country. However, today Vågå Church is not built in a stave style and thus not classified as one of the 28 remaining stave churches in Norway. Still, don’t let this put you off visiting! Stave elements are remaining, and the church is gorgeous.

    History of the church

    Vågå has been populated for a very long time. Vågå is mentioned in the Old Norse sagas when King Olav (later Saint Olav) travelled through the region. He called all the villagers to a meeting, and told them if they didn’t convert to Christianity, he’d burn their houses and farms down. Most of the villagers converted to Christianity.

    It’s believed the site where Vågå Church is today used to be a pagan temple. There was likely a stave church on the site around 1030, a few years after King Olav forced everyone into Christianity. The stave church would’ve been a symbol of the dominance of the new religion over the old, though stave churches did use pagan symbology. If Christianity didn’t work out, they could use the church as a pagan church.

    A new stave church was completed on the site around 1150, and this is widely regarded as one of the oldest stave churches in the country. It was not the only stave church in the village; there were several scattered throughout the village.

    A new church for Vågå

    By the early 17th century, the population of Vågå had become too large for the stave churches. So, a decision was made to tear them down and make one large central church. Between 1626 and 1628, Vågå Church was built. It is a cruciform church and, while the construction technique is like stave churches, the church does not have staves. Because of this, it is not classified as a stave church.

    Still, there are elements of stave churches on this church. The several previous stave churches had good timber, and some of this is in the construction of Vågå Church. Many of the wall surfaces have the old decorations from the stave churches, especially the portals.

    The basic architectural plan is a Latin cross. The construction was done under the direction of Werner Olsen (1600-1682), who is famous in Gudbrandsdalen for his renovation work on stave churches. He later worked on the remodelling of Lom Stave Church and Ringebu Stave Church. His ‘trademark’ is the octagonal bell tower with four small spires in each corner. This type of spire is known as the “Gudbrandstalen type”. Olsen worked to incorporate elements from the stave churches into the new church.

    The Baptismal Font (Source)

    Interior Decorations

    There are some richly decorated items inside, some from the original stave church. For example, the baptismal font is from the 12th century and is the church’s oldest inventory. The pattern corresponds to a pattern found on a Viking ship. It was likely brought over from Ireland by the Vikings. Another old item is the crucifix, from the mid-13th century. It’s in the Gothic style.

    The pulpit and altarpiece are from the rebuilding of the church. The organ is from 2002 and has 1200 pipes.

    Cemetery

    The most famous grave in the cemetery is of Jo Gjende. He (1794-1884) was famous in Norway as an outdoorsman and freethinker. He was born in Vågå and grew up on a farm, which he later inherited, but he ended up living in the Jotunheimen mountains on a mountain farm. Jo became known for his reindeer hunting and sharpshooting. Eventually, he became a vocal sceptic of Christianity, instead, he believed in natural philosophy. For this, he became known as a freethinker. It’s believed that Henrik Ibsen used Jo Gjende as a model for Peer Gynt.

    You will also see some of the Munch family graves here, such as Edvard Storm.

    Vågå Church Visitor Info

    The church has its own website, which you can view here. It’s only in Norwegian, but has a page for tourists. As of writing, there’s no info on opening hours.

    Ullinsvin Vicarage

    Ullinsvin vicarage is a short uphill (but not steep) walk from the church, and the views along the way are incredible. Once at the vicarage, you can walk around the gardens for free. There’s a café here plus a gallery.

    Ullinsvin is an old vicarage with a total of 13 buildings. The old garden has a herb garden, rosebeds, mountain gardens and various trees and shrubs. The Munch family lived at the vicarage for over 80 years, and Christine became famous for her herb garden here. Sadly the original location of the herb garden is unknown, though thanks to her recipes they have been able to replant some of her herbs.

    You can take a break at Ullinsvin at Café Edvard, where they have created a menu around Christine’s old recipes.

    Jo Visdal was a close friend of Edvard Munch from adolescence and for the rest of their lives. They met when they were both studying at the Royal College of Drawing. Jo Visdal created the bus of Edvard Munch you can see in the garden. The bust shows Edvard Munch as a young man, and it is the only bust made of Edvard while he was alive. It was made in 1886. Jo Visdal is from Vågå.

    Up-to-date visitor info is found on their website, but it’s only in Norwegian. Click here.

    Inside the museum (source)

    Jutulheimen Bygdemuseum

    The last stop on the walk is the museum all about life around Jotunheimen National Park.

    The museum contains a collection of houses from the 17th, 18th and 19th centuries from various farms in Vågå. In summer, you can have a guided tour through the museum. There’s an old portal that’s connected to the folktales of Asbjørnsen and Moe, Norway’s most famous fairytale writers. There are some interesting interior exhibitions, too. One exhibition focuses on the impact of World War II on Gudbransdalen, while another is about Jo Gjende, the reindeer hunter.

    Up-to-date visitor information can be found on their website (click here).

    Practical information

    Edvard Munch self-guided walk

    The self-guided walk has its own website, which you can view here. The website includes the audio you can listen to at each stop, though it’s only in Norwegian. There’s also a ton of info in English about Munch and Vågå. I used the website as a resource for this page. https://www.munchivaga.no/english/

    Vågåmo Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide
  • History, Notodden, Rjukan, Telemark, World War II

    Industrial Heritage in Rjukan, Telemark

    Industrial Heritage in Rjukan, Telemark

    In this article...

    Rjukan Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Pre industrial era

    Before industry came to Rjukan, it wasn’t a town and there were very few people living here. However, Rjukan was a known tourist destination. The area has good terrain for skiing and hiking, and it’s a good starting point for the Hardangervidda Plateau. Moreover, in the 1860s, the Norwegian Mountain Touring Association built their first cabin here, by the waterfall. Additionally, Rjukan is close to Gaustatoppen, one of the highest mountains in the country. It also experienced tourism growth in the 19th century.

    Industrial Growth

    In the early 20th century, Norway experienced rapid industrial development. They worked out how to utilise the cheap hydropower properly. Industrial development began in the East Telemark region. Before then, it was an underdeveloped and sparsely populated agricultural area. The factories built here were to make fertiliser, which could be used to blast the mines.

    Kristian Birkeland (1867-1917)
    Sam Eyde (1866-1940)

    The background for industrial development in Rjukan and the neighbouring town Notodden is thanks to these two guys. The process was used to fix atmospheric nitrogen into nitric acid, one of the several chemical processes generally referred to as nitrogen fixation. The resultant was then used as a source of nitrate. It’s a little above me, so you can read about it here.

    They needed electricity to make this work, so established the hydropower company Norsk Hydro in 1905. They set up an experimental factory in Notodden in 1905. The first nitrate factory in Rjukan was Vemork (Rjukan I), which began operations in 1911. At the time, Vemork was the largest power plant with direct current production.

    Rjukan II Power Plant

    Other industrial plants

    Other plants went up around Rjukan, and they are still visible today. Here’s just two of them:

    • Såheim Power Plant: It is from 1914. Hydro Energi owns the building. An old piece from the power plant is in a park in Rjukan.
    • Mår Power Plant: It’s located just south of Rjukan. It was put into operation in 1948 and collects water from an intake reservoir.

    Moreover, they saw the potential of Rjukan, and decided to take over its natural attractions for the exploitation of hydropower. The Rjukan Falls, which had previously been a tourist attraction, were now exploited for hydropower. Furthermore, the high mountain lake Møsvatn and the watercourse was taken over for industry. Their use as a tourist attraction diminished.

    Building Rjukan

    With these plants coming up in Rjukan, they needed to make a town. Rjukan was built between 1905 and 1916.

    The man with the plan for Rjukan was Sam Eyde. He designed Rjukan from the ground up. This included the street layout, facilities, and architecture. Houses were designed from the ground up for the workers. Even the mailboxes and park benches were specifically designed. In 1925, 80% of the houses were controlled by Norsk Hydro.

    In 1910, the population was 2,200. Moreover, ten years later, it was 8,350. At its peak, 12,000 people lived in Rjukan.

    The sun doesn’t reach Rjukan between September and March. Eyde couldn’t have his workers depressed, so he had the Krossobanen built. Moreover, it takes passengers up to a nearby mountain, where the sun still reaches all year long. Certainly, the Krossobanen opened in 1928 as a gift from Norsk Hydro.

    Transportation of goods

    With people and industry comes a need for transport. Moreover, a very detailed system was designed to transport goods from Rjukan down to the pier at Skien. The Rjukanbanen railway took goods from the plants to the Mael pier. From there, the railway ferry went across the Tinnsjøen Lake to Tinnoset. There the train went 34km to the Notodden pier. Goods were then loaded on barges and taken on the Telemark canal system to Skien. King Haakon VII opened the Rjukanbanen on 10 August 1909. It is no longer in operation, but the pier at Mael has been preserved.

    Development of heavy water & WWII

    Rjukan is most known today for its connection to the development of heavy water at its Vemork plant. I won’t go into too much detail about what happened here during the war; that’s for a separate article once I visit the Industrial Workers Museum.

    As we know, between 1907 and 1911 Norsk Hydro built the plant at Vemork. In 1934, they built an adjacent hydrogen plant. Certainly, a by-product of hydrogen projection via water electrolysis is heavy water.

    The Nobel Prize winner Odd Hassel told Norsk Hydro they were producing heavy water; they didn’t know before then!

    What is Heavy Water?

    Heavy water is a form of water that contains only deuterium (heavy hydrogen), rather than common hydrogen. Moreover, the presence of the heavier hydrogen isotope gives the water different nuclear properties. Water has two hydrogen atoms and one oxygen atom. Heavy water has deuterium instead of hydrogen. Furthermore, regular hydrogen has one proton in its nucleus, while heavy water has one proton and one neutron. The increase of mass gives it physical and chemical properties when compared to normal water. It looks like water, but is 10% heavier.

    One purpose of heavy water is using it in nuclear reactors. Heavy water slows the neutrons so they can react with uranium in the reactor. One use of heavy water is developing nuclear weapons.

    Vemork hidden in the trees

    World War II

    This is where we get into World War II. During the war, the Germans took over Norsk Hydro. German scientists discovered that uranium is useful for energy and weapons. Also, heavy water acts as a moderator in a reactor and contributes to the refining of uranium, suitable for atomic bombs. If you aren’t a science person, all that matters is that the Germans were developing heavy water at Vemork in Norway for their atomic bomb.

    Norwegian resistance members discovered this, and immediately set about sabotaging their operations. They launched several attacks on the facility. The most famous is the sabotage operation in winter 1943. While they were able to damage the facility, production soon continued. However, the Norwegians were able to destroy the boats leaving Rjukan via Mael and thus halt the Germans plans to export the heavy water back to Germany. The ship that carried the heavy water is under the lake near Mael.

    The heavy water facility was blown up in 1977. In 2017, the secret cellar used by the Germans was discovered. It is currently being preserved so visitors can see the remains.

    Outside the museum Vemork

    Today Vemork power station is the Norwegian Industrial Workers’ Museum. The history of Rjukan and the industrial worker is told, in addition to the history of war and sabotage associated with the place.

    Post-war industrial shift

    Production continued after the Second World War. In 1955, Norsk Hydro was a powerhouse (in all senses of the word!) with 18% of the global export market for fertiliser products.

    After 1960, most of the production in Rjukan was moved out of town to more modern factories in Porsgrunn. Moreover, Rjukan lost its status as major industrial town. However some industry is still present here, but on a much smaller scale.

    Ammonia production ended in Notodden in 1968 and in Rjukan in 1989. Furthermore, they replaced Vemork with a new facility behind the mountains in 1971. Today the power plants serve as heritage sites and museums.

    UNESCO World Heritage Site

    After the turn of the century, Rjukan began to refocus its prime source of income. It found that tourism could be a huge industry here. After all, it was in the 19th century. With that the town decided to push for UNESCO World Heritage status for its industrial plants.

    The application was for Rjukan and Notodden. Above all, they represent the second industrial revolution consisting of industry, hydropower, transport and factory cities. The cities went on the UNESCO list on 5 July 2015. This is exactly 108 years and 1 day after Sam Eyde’s plans began for Rjukan.

    Here’s the reason UNESCO added it:

    Located in a dramatic landscape of mountains, waterfalls and river valleys, the site comprises hydroelectric power plants, transmission lines, factories, transport systems and towns. The complex was established by the Norsk-Hydro Company to manufacture artificial fertiliser from nitrogen in the air. It was built to meet the Western world’s growing demand for agricultural production in the early 20th century. The company towns of Rjukan and Notodden show workers’ accommodation and social institutions linked by rail and ferry to ports where the fertilizer was loaded. The Rjukan-Notodden site manifests an exceptional combination of industrial assets and themes associated to the natural landscape. It stands out as an example of a new global industry in the early 20th century.

    UNESCO World Heritage

    Hiking trails around the Vemork plant

    Rjukan Today

    Today 3,100 people live in Rjukan. It is primarily a tourist destination. The surrounding mountains are great for skiers. Moreover, access to Hardangervidda national park is perfect for adventure seekers and hikers. Furthermore, there are numerous museums and visitor centres about the towns heritage.

    It’s not all industry in Rjukan. The town is famous for its sun mirrors. Between September and March, Rjukan sits in the shadows. The mountain (thanks, Gaustatoppen) blocks the sun. In 2013, at the cost of 5 million NOK, large mirrors were put on the mountain. They reflect sun onto the town square. Every 12 March is Solfesten, a festival to celebrate the return of the sun.

    Visiting Rjukan

    By Car: Rjukan is a 2.5 hour drive from Oslo. You can take a short detour via the famous Heddal Stave Church. Rjukan is 1.5 hours from Dalen, 2 hours from Skien, and 5.5 hours from Bergen.

    Public Transport: There are no direct public transport routes to Rjukan; you have to take multiple buses. This includes from all nearby cities.

    How Long to Stay: I would recommend spending at least one night in Rjukan. This will give you time to do Gaustabanen and the Vemork Museum, though they can both be easily spread over 2 days. If you are interested in World War II or hiking, you can do the same trail the resistance workers took when they had their famous sabotage operation. It is a middle-grade hike and will take you past some heritage sites. Click here to learn more. Another hike will take you along the pipes for the Vemork station (click here).

    Note: Vemork Museum is not an easy walk from Rjukan town centre. Having a car is highly recommended.

    Rjukan Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide
  • History, Stavanger

    The History of Stavanger, Simplified

    The History of Stavanger, Simplified

    Stavanger is one of those cities I’ve never really looked into, never mind the history of Stavanger. When my husband asked me to plan my dream Norwegian road-trip, I thought it is worth spending a couple days in Stavanger. I didn’t think the history would tell much of a story…

    Until I read about it.

    The history of Stavanger is fascinating. It was one of the most important bases for the Vikings. It has Norway’s oldest cathedral (take that, Nidaros). Don’t shy away from Stavanger because of its oil wealth. There’s so much going on here.

    Here’s the history of Stavanger summarised, keeping in all the good bits.

    In this article...

    Stavanger Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    The first peoples

    The first traces of people in Stavanger comes from the islands. It’s believed that people came here from the North Sea or the land area known as Doggerland. Doggerland was located between Denmark and England. It flooded after the last Ice Age, so its peoples looked for new land, and they came to Stavanger.

    During The Bronze Age (1800-500BC), wealthy chieftains emerged in Stavanger. They made trade connections with Europe. This gave them horses and bronze status symbols. They lived in fancy longhouses, and were buried in large burial mounds. Many archaeological finds from this time have been found, the richest ones on the island Austre Amøy (https://no.wikipedia.org/wiki/Austre_%C3%85m%C3%B8y).

    Jæren, the area south of Stavanger (see the scenic route) is (and has always been) an important place for agriculture. There are traces of 200 farms from the migration period. It’s possible to visit Jernaldergården (https://am.uis.no/jernaldergarden/), a rebuilt migration-period farm.

    A monument for the Battle of Hafrsfjord

    The Viking Age

    Stavanger had Vikings. In fact, Stavanger is one of the most important bases for the Vikings, signalled by the famous Battle of Hafrsfjord in 872. This is the battle that unified Norway as one kingdom under a ruler. The victorious Viking chief Harald Fairhair proclaimed himself King of the Norwegians. The battle, and Stavanger, is mentioned in Harald Fairhair’s Saga Heimskringla (http://heimskringla.no/wiki/Soga_um_Harald_Haarfagre), written by Snorri Sturlason.

    Most importantly, there is evidence in North Jæren suggesting a powerful chieftain lived there around the Viking Age. The area is also likely a starting point for the Viking voyages to the British Isles. Most importantly, more Irish metalwork is found in this area than in any other comparable area in Europe.

    Ullandhaug Iron Age Farm (source: Wikipedia)

    Several finds from the Viking Age were uncovered in Stavanger. Perhaps the most famous is the Gausel Queen’s tomb on Gausel (https://web.archive.org/web/20110724175532/http://www.gausel.no/art_rlb97.htm) The grave is one of Norway’s richest woman graves from the Viking Age, and it contained a number of Irish and domestic elements. The manor house on Gausel was likely a centre of power during the Viking Age, and rich finds from boat graves on the site show that there was military and political power here.

    The objects from this grave are on display in the Bergen Museum.

    Christianity comes to Stavanger

    The first Christian impulses came to Stavanger through trade with Europe and Great Britain during the Viking Age. In the mid-10th century, the traditional Norse burial customs stopped. Around the same time, the priests began their work.

    Large stone crosses have been found throughout Stavanger municipality signalling early Christianity. One of the most known is the memorial cross for Erling Skjalgasson, who controlled the south west coast at the time. He fell in 1028 and the cross was put up soon after. The inscription on the cross shows a priest was responsible and the site may have been used as an early church.

    The founding of Stavanger

    Stavanger is one of Norway’s oldest cities. By the early 12th century, it was growing as an urban centre. The Stavanger bishopric was established in the 1120s, Stavanger was officially founded in connection with the construction of the Stavanger Cathedral.

    Bishop Reinhald, who likely came from Winchester in England, is said to have started the construction of the Stavanger Cathedral. It was finished in 1125, and that’s when Stavanger considers its founding.

    St. Mary’s Church shortly before it was torn down

    The fire of 1272

    A large fire in 1272 destroyed much of the inner urban area and cathedral. St. Mary’s Church was built in Stavanger shortly after this fire in a Gothic style. In 1883, a runestone of quartz was found in the foundation wall of the church. The stone says “Kjetil erected this stone after his wife Jorun Utyrmsdatter” and it is from 1000-1050. The church has since been demolished, but there’s a plaque next to Stavanger Cathedral.(https://no.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mariakirken_i_Stavanger) Furthermore, remains under the cathedral shows that there may have been an earlier building on the site from the 800s or 1000s.

    The Reformation

    At the beginning of the 16th century, Stavanger was still the religious centre for southwestern Norway. The Reformation had serious effects on Stavanger as a whole.

    The Reformation dealt a hard blow to the Church and Stavanger. The cathedral, bishop and canons of the monastery were large landowners at the time. Recession began with the loss of people in rural areas, and as a result the revenues of the cathedral and bishop fell dramatically due to reduced income. The King confiscated the bishop’s and monastery’s estate and property. St. Swithun’s casket (https://no.wikipedia.org/wiki/St._Svithuns_skrin) disappeared, likely sent to Copenhagen to be melted down and made into coins.

    17th Century Growth

    Stavanger didn’t see growth until the beginning of the 17th century. There was cultural growth in the city, especially with the Stavanger Renaissance, when famous artists from abroad came to create artworks in the city. Their most famous work was the rich redecorating of the Cathedral.(https://no.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stavangerrenessansen)

    The 17th century fires. Photo: Arne Kvitrud, 2018. (Source)

    Sure, there were outbreaks of the plague in 1618 and 1629, and Stavanger did have many fires in the 17th and 18th centuries, but trade was growing with Europe and Great Britain. When the famous Kielland family moved in, the city saw a new generational change.

    19th century industrialisation

    Gamle Stavanger around 1910. In the background you can see a canning factory (Source)

    A model of Stavanger representing the year 1800. (Source)

    Industry came to Stavanger in the 19th century, and the city found new purpose. The most important industries to emerge was shipping, shipbuilding, and the fish canning industry.

    A huge upswing in the precious herring fishing (what Stavanger had lived on since the 16th century) at the turn of the century led to wealth and prosperity. However, it was the low herring catches in the 1870s and 1880s that made the city realise they had to expand beyond these industries. With that, the canning industry began.

    The canning industry

    The old Stavanger Preserving Co. Building

    Stavanger Preserving, founded in 1873, is Stavanger’s oldest canning factory. The factory didn’t just bring canning to Stavanger, but also let to the growth of other industries such as packaging factories, printing houses, box factories and so on.

    Chr. Bjelland & Co AS is the largest and most famous canning factory. Founded by Christian Bjelland (1858-1927), the company initially focused on fresh fish products but from 1889 onwards started processing anchovies in a tin can. In 1893, the company picked up the production of sardines packed with a hermetic seal. (https://www.kingoscar.no/om-oss/historien-om-king-oscar/)

    The company is famous for its creative packaging, often depicting Norwegian heroes such as Fridtjof Nansen. You probably recognise the Kong Oscar brand (still in shops today), for which Christian Bjelland received royal permission to use the image of Oscar II of Sweden. (https://www.norwegianamerican.com/food/king-of-the-sea/)

    The customs house (Source)

    Early 20th Century

    At the turn of the century, Stavanger’s industry was mainly related to fisheries and shipping. Canning was still the main industry; Stavanger earned the nickname “Norway’s canned capital”.

    The interwar depression hit the city hard. The population, which in 1815 reached 2500, increased to 23,500 in 1875. In 1890, the population was only 24,400. By 1920, the population had reached 50,400. (https://snl.no/Stavanger_-_historie)

    Skagen in 1910 (Source)

    World War II

    In the early morning of the 9th of April 1940 Germany invaded Norway. Stavanger had been one of the first targets for the Germans; the day before they had anchored a freighter close to the city despite Norwegian protest. On the 9th, explosions and bomb blasts on Sola Airport and news bulletins on the radio announced the attack on Norway.

    German soldier in Stavanger 1941 (Source)

    German soldiers in Stavanger on Skagen (Source)

    The bombardment on Sola Airport lasted an hour before 52 transport aircraft from Hamburg arrived. In a parachute assault, the transport planes dropped yellow containers containing weapons and equipment and then between ten and twelve paratroopers from each plane. This is the second-ever wartime parachute assault.

    The Norwegians surrendered and 200 to 300 transport aircraft arrived during the day. At 12:30pm, the first German troops advanced on Stavanger without resistance and took over the most important buildings in the city. By the evening, several hundred soldiers and large quantities of material were now at Sola Airport.

    During the war, the Germans had placed high priority on having a good railway linking the airbase at Sola with the rest of the country. The Southern Railway opened in 1944, three years later than planned.

    When the war ended in 1945, there were 15,000 German soldiers in Rogaland County. Before repatriation, the Germans were required to clean up after five years of occupation. 180 German minefields lay along the coast with a total of 480,000 mines. The German Wehmacht were required to clear them. 62 Germans died and 94 were injured during the mine clearance. Mines from this period continue to be uncovered.

    Immediate post-war years

    Little changed for the business community in Stavanger immediately following the war. The canning industry disappeared in the 1960s; during the First World War there had been 54 canning companies with 8000 employees and accounted for 70% of the country’s canned exports.

    Shipping and shipbuilding made up the bulk of industry during the 1950s and 1960s, and were very useful in the brand-new industry that was about to emerge.

    Discovery of oil

    You can’t talk about Stavanger without mentioning the oil industry. After the discovery of oil in the North Sea, Stavanger became the hub for the Norwegian oil sector in the North Sea. A period of hectic growth followed. More than just the general oil industry, consulting companies, local engineering, catering came to Stavanger, as well as growth in the public and private sector.

    Stavanger Today

    The Norwegian Petroleum Museum opened in 1999, and tourism has been growing in importance ever since. Stavanger is becoming a major Norwegian cruise port.

    The University of Stavanger opened in 2005.

    As of 2019/2020 the Ryfast tunnel opened; it is the world’s longest underwater tunnel.

    History of Stavanger

    I hope you enjoyed this overview of the history of Stavanger!

    You can read a more in-depth version of this history, plus walk through Stavanger yourself, with my self-guided walking tour.

    Stavanger Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide
  • Bergen, History, World War II

    The Most Haunted Places in Bergen

    I love haunted stories. Every time the husband and I travel somewhere, we do a ghost tour. No, I do not care for ghosts or scary stories. Instead, I like the stories of the everyday and the weird that makes a town sound more unique. Typical walking stories tend to focus on kings, the upper class, and famous people. Ghost stories focus on the lower class, the merchants, the poor. It’s fascinating. So, in the spirit of Halloween, I had to seek out the most haunted places in Bergen.

    Like any good ghost story, the haunted places of Bergen are local legend and not really written about in English. I had to dig through newspapers, Norwegian blogs, and other websites to find the good stuff. Bergen has some crazy stories, as this page will tell.

    If you know any ghost stories in Bergen (or surrounds) add them in the comments!

    Haunted Places in Bergen

    The Worst Criminals in a Dungeon at Rosenkrantz Tower

    The Rosenkrantz Tower is intimidating in its own right, but anyone who has been inside knows how eerie the basement is.

    A little bit about the tower. It was originally built in 1270 as an apartment for the King, Magnus the Lawmender. When Bergen was part of Denmark, the Danish lord Erik Rosenkrantz built the tower in its current form. There have been alterations to the tower before Rosenkrantz, but his is the most famous. The dungeon was added around the year 1500.

    The dungeon is 4m x 1m, and the ceiling is just high enough to stand up in. Light only comes through a crack in the walls, which are very damp. Imprisoned here were the worst prisoners. The cell was in use from the 16th until the 19th centuries.

    Related Articles: A Walk Through the Bergen Fortress

    Eternal Guest at the Radisson Blu Hotel

    Maybe you’ll be staying at the Radisson Blu on your stay? Skip this section if so.

    Okay, for those of you who stayed. Before a major renovation at the Radisson Blu, the staff observed strange things. The events took place on the second floor near the nightclub.

    Staff saw the ‘eternal guest’ often. In the mornings, they saw him with a beer glass. The revolving doors into the kitchen also moved without anyone being there. Some employees even reported seeing a shadow following them in the corridors. Sometimes a figure would be seen on the dance-floor after closing time.

    The staff elevator is one of the most affected places. It can only be used with a code, and it links the party rooms to the kitchen. Occasionally the elevator would stop by itself on the second floor. The doors would open and everything was completely dark. No one had been to this floor.

    So, there’s a beer-loving disco ghost wandering the party rooms of the Radisson Blu.

    Hauntings at Bryggen

    Bryggen Tracteursted

    Bryggen Tracteursted is a restaurant located behind Bryggen. It’s in a schøtstuene (assembly room) built in 1708. Of course it’s haunted.
    One night a chef was working while playing some music. Suddenly, the pans from the shelves fell off. The chef is sure that something supernatural was the cause of the events.

    The Hanseatic Games

    Bryggen in general feels very haunted. After all, this is where people have Bergen have lived since the 11th century. It’s the Hanseatic times (1360-1754) that have some creepy stories. In particular are the games that the apprentice merchants would play. One is the water game, held in May. The new boys went to ships on the bay. Their clothes were taken off and a rope tied around their waist. They were then tossed into the water and hoisted up. They repeated this several times. Out at sea, several older men waiting with a rowing boat, armed with sticks. They tried to hit the wet boys. After the ceremony, the boys went back to continue serving the dinner party. One boy is believed to have died when his belly was torn open by a protruding nail outside the ship.

    There are so many stories of these games. Another one is the smoking game. Older boys made a fire, and the younger boys were tied up in ropes and lifted up above the fire. While hanging, the boy was asked questions that he should know the answer to, mostly about the business. If he got the answers right, he was released. If he got an answer wrong, he was lowered further into the fire. One boy is said to have died. The statue outside Svensgården represents that the boy came out of the fire looking he had multiple eyes and noses.

    Lonely Mother at St. Jørgens

    St. Jørgen’s Hospital is one of the best preserved leprosy hospitals in Europe. The Nonneseter Abbey constructed the hospital in the 1300s to treat the growing number of patients. Over the years it developed into one of Bergen’s most important hospitals. Armeur Hansen discovered the cause of leprosy in Bergen and worked near the hospital.

    The patients of St. Jørgens had to live in the hospital. They were self-sufficient with their own vegetable gardens and livestock. They would share rooms roughly 2m x 2m, but had a large kitchen and common area.
    One of my friends once told me a story about the hospital. Now, every time I walk through the hospital grounds (it’s part of my walking tours) I am reminded of this haunting story. A woman was admitted to St. Jørgen’s for having leprosy and had to remain on the property. Every Sunday, a nanny would bring the woman’s children to play in the park across from the hospital. The children had been told their mother had died, and they were unsure why they were playing in this park. They were brought here so their mother could see them.

    Today St. Jørgen’s is the leprosy museum of Bergen, with exhibitions and guided tours.

    Cemeteries Around Bergen

    Cemeteries are always creepy. They are also always haunted. St. Jacobs has an interesting story. Established in 1629 as a cemetery for the poor, it is the oldest cemetery in Bergen. Back then it was very uncommon to bury the poor in marked graves. So, between 60 and 70 percent of the dead had unmarked graves. Meanwhile, the wealthy were buried inside the churches – often in the floor or crypts in the basement.

    In the 19th century, it became less common to bury the wealthy in the church. After all, imagine the smell coming from the church? Eventually, St. Jacob’s became a cemetery for the upper class. The graves of many famous Bergenser’s are there.

    An honourable mention goes to the cemetery around the Bergen Cathedral. That cemetery was the leprosy cemetery. It got so full that they made cemeteries like St. Jacobs.

    Further down the road is the Assistant Cemetery. In 2016, when they were doing work on the railway, they found skulls belonging to 50-60 people. They were likely buried in the 19th century.

    Bergen Prison

    The prison in Bergen was built in the mid-19th century. A reform in the country meant new prisons based on the Philadelphia system. This meant one prisoner per cell, and harsh treatment of each prisoner. The Bergen prison did built one cell for each prisoner, but it became known for being nice to the prisoners. During the 1916 fire, the prison was in peril. The prison management let the prisoners go, asking them to come back the next day. With one or two exceptions, the prisoners returned after the prison wasn’t lost in the fire.

    The Gestapo took over the prison in 1940. One of the Gustapo’s prisoners was Gunvor Mowinckel, who was imprisoned here 1944-45. She and her husband were sheltering refugees during the Norwegian resistance and arrested for this. After an interrogation and torture by the Gestapo, they are imprisoned here. Gunvor wrote:

    “At a point in the Gestapo HQ I was asked by Kesting (Gustapo) how many children I had. When I answered, Kesting said that the children of such a terrible individual weren’t worthy of life.

    Later that day we were transferred to the Bergen County Jail. It was a horrible time. I think the fear for the children and what was coming next was the worst.”

    The prison is now abandoned and certainly has a creepy vibe about it. While the stories aren’t exactly scary, there’s something eerie about the building.

    Town Hall Prison

    The town hall prison is creepier than the main prison. The basement had a cell for 12 prisoners and a room for the mentally ill. There was no fresh air. If they had the opportunity to move around, it was in the corridor outside their cell. No outdoor area was available to them. It wasn’t a prison but a holding cell before sentencing. Prisoners could wait up to two years in this basement cell with stench, darkness, no light, no heat, and no comfort.
    When they were sentenced, they were sent to prison or executed.

    Executions were commonplace. For example, in 1630 they executed a woman for stealing from the parish clerk. In 1632 they accused a girl of causing a shipwreck – she was clearly a witch. After torture, the girl pointed the finger at another woman for causing the disaster. This woman was also executed. If the crime was petty, prisoners were deported to Northern Norway. In 1692, wealthy merchant Jørgen Thormøhlen got permission from the King to take prisoners to his colony in the West Indies.

    As mentioned above, there was a bedlam next to the holding cell. They likely received no treatment. Back then, the mentally ill were treated poorly. For example, in 1634 they executed a man for helping treat someone back to their sanity.

    A room is still preserved in the basement, but it’s seldom open to the public.

    The Apprentice

    Kløverhuset is a shopping mall located on Strandgaten in Nordnes. The shopping mall made news many years ago for noises that were coming from it at night. The noise was so intense that the locals complained to the press. It gained so much attention that a clairvoyant came to inspect the mall. The clairvoyant said she spoke to a figure named Albert Albertsen. Turns out, he was an apprentice to Johan Petersen, the man who started Kløverhuset in 1852.

    No reportings of Albert have been made in recent times, but maybe he’s still there?

    Gestapo Headquarters

    The Gestapo was an executive branch of the German security police during the Second World War. Germans occupied Bergen during the war. The Gestapo had their headquarters in a building close to the theatre. The building became known as a torture site and a symbol of the oppressive occupying power in Norway. Brutal methods when interrogating people became a trademark of the Gestapo.

    Following the drama in Telavåg in 1942 (click here to read about that), the Gestapo brought in the villagers for interrogation. One woman, Martha, did not want to tell the Gestapo about what was happening in Telavåg. She also didn’t want to identify the Norwegians who were part of it. To force a confession, the Gestapo beat Martha with wooden sticks until she lost consciousness.

    800 to 900 prisoners were subjected to violent interrogations by the Gestapo, where they were tied up and hung up in meat hooks in the basement or in offices further upstairs. A total of six resistance fighters died as a direct result of the Gestapo’s torture. 

    The Gestapo tortured many victims to death. To avoid breaking during interrogation, several prisoners jumped to their death from the 4th and 5th floors.

    After the war, the Gestapo in Bergen were convicted of war crimes and sentenced to death. Today a memorial stands outside the building for those who were tortured and died.

    A museum is currently being developed on the fourth floor, where four graves have been preserved. Read more here.

    Octavia the Friendly Ghost

    Every theatre has a ghost, and Bergen’s is the friendliest. Her name is Octavia Sperati, and she is one of the female actors from the theatres early days. She is a useful ghost, taking care of the building and the people working there.

    There are several sightings of Octavia. She is observed as a woman in a white dress flying around the corridors. There are reports of knocking noises, footsteps in corridors, and paintings falling off the wall. Some even claim to hear her voice.

    If you want to see her, there is a portrait of her in the lobby. The painting has survived fires and bombings, so people think she’s the ghost.

    Ghosts in the Natural History Museum

    Rakkerdammen is a swamp area located close to the Natural History Museum. The swamp is gone, the remnants are now a pond. The site is an old execution site; ‘rakker’ means ‘executioner’. In the old times, children were told to avoid the swamp as the ghosts could take them into the swamp.
    It’s believed the ghosts haunt the Natural History Museum.. After all, it’s built on the old court square next to the execution site. Unusual activities are said to be the ghosts of those executed. The last execution was in 1803. Anders Lysne was beheaded for leading a farmers’ revolt against forced military service.

    Some of the objects inside the museum are also haunted. The Egypt department has 5,000-year-old statues on display that turn and move. This is even though they are behind glass. Observations of a monk have also been made. The old monk is moving around in the church exhibition area.

    Sibling Drama

    There’s sightings of ghosts near the old Munkeliv Monastery in Nordnes. It’s not from the monastery itself; the monastery is today a park. Rather, it comes from one of the houses close by. Yes, Bergen has a haunted house. The story goes that two siblings were romantically involved with one another and living in a house in Nordnes. The sister got pregnant, which is of course a bad thing. The couple killed the child when it was born. Then it is said the brother killed the sister before hanging himself.

    The park over the monastery is also said to be haunted. After all, the soil was taken from an old cemetery where Bergen’s worst criminals were buried. We’ll explore them now.

    Executions on Nordnes

    The majority of executions took place on the Nordnes Peninsula. There are two separate sites: Galgebakken and the area close to the aquarium.
    Galgebakken means ‘gallows’, and it’s where some executions took place. It is also where pillories were to punish and humiliate prisoners.

    The site close to the aquarium is famous for its witch burning. Over 100 women burned at the stake for being a witch in Bergen. The most famous is Anne Pedersdatter Beyer, who was the widow of priest Absalon Beyer. During the witch trials, it was very uncommon for upper class women like Anne to be accused of witchcraft. Typically, witches came from the lower classes. Being accused of witchcraft could be due to ordinary, everyday accidents. The worse accusations involved women taking part in accidents, most often shipwrecks. It’s believed they burned Anne for being a witch because she was unpopular in Bergen. After all, once you are accused, it was hard to fight that.

    Later on, the site was used for executions. Between 1842 and 1902, 1888 people were sentenced to death in Norway but only 20 were executed. Four people were beheaded in Bergen after 1814 on this site. One was the counterfeiter Jens Fenstad. Another was murderer Jakob Alexander Jakobsen Wallin. The latter was the last public execution in Bergen in 1876. 5,000 people were present when Jakob was executed. Those present were from the lower classes. The upper classes had read in the newspaper to stay away from the execution.

    St. Pauli Cemetery

    The site where St. Pauli Cemetery used to be is said to be the most haunted place in Bergen. The cemetery was established around 1650 for the poor and criminals of Bergen. It is often said that there were ghosts both inside and outside the walls. This is because they buried the poor in the walls. Meanwhile they buried the executed criminals outside the walls. Jens Fenstad, the counterfeiter, was buried outside the wall. A stone slab was over his grave until the end of the 19th century. A courthouse used to stand next to the cemetery.

    Ever since the cemetery was built over and the area got gas lanterns (and now modern lighting), the ghost activity has calmed down. Additionally, in the late 19th century the remains were moved to Møllendal Cemetery. The soil was used to built Nordnes Park, which they think has hauntings from the criminals.

    Resources

    histos.no / An excellent website with historical stories about Bergen

    Nordnes Republikken / A blog about the Nordnes Peninsula

    NRK.no

    BT.no

  • History, Odda

    The History of Odda

    The History of Odda

    For me, Odda is a small, industrial town close to lots of beautiful places. But Odda itself is not exactly beautiful; the large factories overshadow the small town. The Netflix series Ragnarok used Odda as its setting to critique the heavy industry in the town. Odda is on the first day of my Ultimate Norwegian Roadtrip, so I took the time to read up on the town. And boy, the history of Odda is fascinating.

    I’ve put together a summary of my History of Odda notes for this article. I am a tour guide and not a historian, so this article is a collection of my notes. I have included a list of resources at the bottom of this article.

    Here’s the history of Odda.

    In this article...

    Odda Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    The Early Years

    The name ‘Odda’ comes from an old farm that stood close to where the Odda Church is today. At the time, churches are on the largest farms; this is a sign of wealth. Until the 19th century, Odda was a small farming community. In 1801, there were 10 houses in Odda with a total population of 59.

    19th Century Tourism

    Odda’s growth begins with tourism. In Norway, tourism starts in the 19th century. Many fjord towns (for example Flåm and Geiranger) emerged as legitimate towns and not just isolated communities. The same thing happened with Odda; cruise ships began making the journey into the Sørfjorden and docking in Odda. Once on land, farmers with horses greeted the tourists and took them to see nearby attractions.

    Thanks to tourism, Odda grows rapidly. By 1900, the population had risen to 383. The Hotel Hardanger opens to accommodate the rise in tourists. Sadly, it burns down in a major fire in 1895; this is an event the Odda locals consider to be one of their most devastating. However, just 10 months later, a new Hotel Hardanger is standing.

    Tourists in Odda

    Who came to Odda? Many visitors were English, but there were also some celebrities. Most famous is the German Emperor Kaiser Wilhelm II. He vacationed in Norway all the time and visited Odda every year between 1891 and 1914. He gifted the town with its first hospital and many fire hydrants. Kaiser Wilhelm is famous throughout Norway because he is the one who helped to rebuild Ålesund after their devastating fire. Maybe he didn’t want the same thing to happen in Odda!

    The new Odda Church is from in 1870, one year after the historic church is torn down. The old church is from 1250, but it was too small for the growing community. The new Odda Church seats 500 people.

    Industrial Growth

    Shortly after the cruise ships began coming to Odda, industrialists began to visit. They saw the potential of building industry here. After all, Odda has many waterfalls and watercourses that can produce electricity. Waterfall buyers (yes, that is a thing) at the time were travelling Norway to buy waterfalls. Most buyers came from overseas, and 75% of developed waterfalls are by foreigners. It’s important to note that Norway at the time is a poor country with little skills. The foreign companies didn’t keep it to themselves; they taught Norwegians how to do it. The same goes for the oil industry in the 1960s. The ice-free harbour only furthers interest in building up Odda.

    Albert Petersson

    Professor Albert Petersson came to Norway from Sweden to find a place to build a factory that produced carbide and cyanamide. Honestly, explaining what those are is beyond me, so you can click them to read about them. Anyway, he found Odda and waterfalls. The factory is built in record time and creates hundreds of new jobs. It is the largest in the world at the time. In 10 years, the population rises from 383 to 3077.

    Most importantly, Odda Fabrikkane employs around 1000 people. The daily wage is 4-5 NOK for 10 hours of work, well above the standard salary for the time; a good suit costs 15 NOK. The company builds houses and apartments for its workers, some of which you can still see today.

    Meanwhile, neighbouring Tyssedal is undergoing the same rapid growth. A hydropower plant is built within two years and begins supplying electricity on 4 May 1908. Odda is one of the first towns in Norway to get electric power for lights and simple appliances in 1913.

    Decline of tourism

    Of course, the rapid increase in industry causes an effect on tourism. What was once an idyllic, natural and clean destination for travellers is now overcrowded and polluted. Hotel Hardanger turns black from the emissions, and the smog covers the fjord. The hotel tries to sue the factory for damages, but it is not paid out until 1922. The hotel is already bankrupt by then.

    Cruise ships continue to come to Odda until World War I, but they stay on the ship instead of the hotel.

    World War I

    More importantly, Odda grinds to a halt when World War I breaks out. While Norway remained neutral throughout the war, it had a huge impact on the industry in the country. 1000 men are fired in one day, and a couple of days later only 700 men are left in Odda. Also, Dr. Albert Petersson disappears; he is travelling to England on a ship when no one sees him fall overboard in the middle of the night.

    The road between Odda and Tyssedal begins construction in 1916; they use mostly factory workers that are laid off.

    It is not all bad for Odda, though. the Odda factories are producing calcium cyanamide, a chemical fertiliser. Until after World War I this was the chief alternative to nitrate fertiliser. It also serves as a raw material in chemical compositions, for example in the explosives.

    The 1920s

    Firstly, war and smoke have put a stop to tourism, and Odda has too many hotels. Most of them are empty all year round. As a result, Hotel Hardanger is sold to the municipality and converted into the town hall.

    Secondly, the chemical industry in Odda is based on war production. After the war, there is a great deal of overproduction and large stocks. Odda Fabrikkane goes bankrupt and shuts down in 1921. In Tyssedal, the Nitriden factory – one of the world’s largest producers of crude aluminium – goes bankrupt and closes a couple of weeks later. 1000 people are unemployed as a result of these two factories closing.

    Despite this, forced labour in the 1920s and 1930s leads to Odda getting 103km of new roads.

    In 1924, the factories merge under the name Odda Smelteverk. They have the purpose of running factories and selling chemical and metallurgical products. Many of the unemployed get their jobs back, but it doesn’t last too long.

    Five years later, the economic crisis of 1929 leads to record unemployment in Odda. In 1935, around 15% of all Norwegians depend on public poverty relief to make ends meet. In Odda, 900 people are unemployed. The huge unemployment makes the welfare expenses are too high and the municipality goes bankrupt in 1932.

    World War II

    The first indication of World War II coming to Odda was on 3 April 1940 (6 days before Germany invaded Norway). A German plane dropped a bomb on a pile of stones on the hillside, followed by more German planes dropping bombs to spread fear. One hits a house and crushes it, while another one hits a cafe.

    Germans don’t arrive in Odda until the 15th of May, over one month after the initial invasion. At the first meeting of NS (the Nazi Party of Norway) in Odda, few people attend while hundreds protest outside. There is an active resistance movement in Odda throughout the war. On 1 March 1943 nine locals are executed at an internment camp in Oslo.

    The Germans are drawn to Odda with its various factories, and they begin exploiting the aluminium factory as well as building their own. However, development is too slow and they abandon plans in 1943. They are building on agricultural land, and it is now destroyed.

    The 1950s

    Things are looking up for Odda in the 1950s. A new hospital, city hall and school are finished using taxes from the factories.

    Moreover, in 1961, the road between Odda and Tyssedal is (finally) finished. In 1968 the European Highway 134 finally opens too – it is the oldest open winter road connection between east and west Norway.

    The 1970s

    In 1970, the population of Odda is 10,000. To make way for modern housing, historical buildings are torn down. This includes the historic Hotel Hardanger.

    Fixing Pollution

    In the 1970s, more attention and care is being given to how much these factories are polluting. And boy, is Odda polluting.

    It starts with the Norwegian state introducing a law that Norwegian companies must report their marine discharges. One factory in Odda alone dumps 600 tonnes of waste material per day into the fjord.

    The Sørfjord is declared one of the most metal-polluted water areas in the world, and it is spreading into the Hardangerfjord.

    The zinc factory begins the first purification measure. It builds a purification factory for mercury. Their method eventually becomes an important example of environmental technological innovation that reduces global pollution of mercury. Another plant builds mountain halls to store waste. By the end of the 1980s, emissions in the fjord are reduced by 99%.

    Ways to reduce pollution are still ongoing in Odda, with new methods of recycling and reduction constantly developed.

    Preserving the history of Odda

    By the 1990s, the situation for Odda Smelteverk is not looking good. The factory goes bankrupt in 2002.

    In the 1990s, the end of a factory in Odda does not mean huge unemployment. New industries are growing in Odda, and the dependence on factories is declining. Meanwhile, the history of Odda and its industry is important, so several books are written. A movement begins in Odda to get on the UNESCO World Heritage List. Most importantly, the council is for it but the locals oppose it. Odda Smelteverk is protected in 2011 as a national heritage site.

    The Folgefonn Tunnel opened in 2002, allowing people to drive 11km under the glacier. This reduces travel time to Bergen dramatically.

    In 2020, Odda merges with the neighbouring districts of Ullensvang and Jondal to become a new municipality called Ullensvang. Finally, in 2024, work is going to begin on a new and safer winter road between east and west Norway.

    Odda Today

    The history of Odda ends with it almost coming full circle. Today many people in Odda still rely on the factories for a living, but many people are now working in new fields, particularly medical and social services. However, tourism is rapidly growing in the region, thanks to the natural beauty that attracted tourists 170 years ago. The Odda Smelteverk is now a museum you can visit. Next time I get to Odda I’ll be sure to cover this fascinating part of the town.

    Odda Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide
  • Bergen, History, Museums

    A Guide to Gamle Bergen

    A Guide to Gamle Bergen

    For me, Gamle Bergen was one of those places I occasionally took groups, but never really understood. I never had the chance to go there myself, and when I was with tourists I was too busy with them. As a tour guide, I memorised information about the important houses, and always made sure to give them their maps and point them in the right direction, but that’s about it. I never understood why to make the journey to Gamle Bergen when modern Bergen is full of old houses!

    With the corona situation, I’ve had much more free time to go exploring, and it’s finally giving me the chance to build up this blog. I decided that I would visit Gamle Bergen and write about it for Hidden North, hoping to find some new appreciation for the museum. And boy, did I!

    So, for my Gamle Bergen Guide, I’m going to go over what you can see at the museum but also the hidden attractions around the museum because, honestly, they are just as special (and they are free!)

    In this article...

    Bergen Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    What is Gamle Bergen?

    Gamle Bergen (English: Old Bergen) is an open-air museum located a few kilometres outside the city centre of Bergen. The museum was established to save the characteristic houses that represent Bergen architecture. Bergen did catch fire often!

    The museum’s founder was Kristian Bjerknes (1901-1984), a cultural historian and member of a group of likeminded locals. He became the first director of the museum and ran it until 1971. As the city was expanding at the beginning of the 20th century, the widening of streets led to the demolition of many of Bergen’s wooden homes. The museum group would instead take the houses and place them on their site.

    In 1944, a German freight ship exploded on the Bergen Harbour. The explosion damaged many wooden houses, and the museum sped up its efforts to save these buildings. They were rebuilt at Gamle Bergen.

    The museum has 32 houses plus smaller buildings and items from the old times. Gamle Bergen’s purpose is to highlight Bergen’s history and cultural life, with objects and information boards telling about what it was like to live in Bergen in the 18th and 19th centuries.

    Historic Overview of the Site

    Gamle Bergen was built on Elsesro, an old summer estate. The wealthy shipbuilder Rasmus Rolfsen had Elsesro built to accompany his boatyard. He named the site Elsesro after his wife Elsebe (Elsesro = Else’s Peace). In the 19th century, the pavilion, gatekeepers house, summer house, tower house and barn were added.

    Rasmus Rolfsen’s son, Tønnes Rolfsen, expanded the main building when he moved in. Damsgård Manor, which sits directly across the fjord, likely inspired the architecture of the building. Tønnes Rolfsen also had Haugen built, with its Chinese pavilion, park and ponds, designed in an English garden style.

    After Tønnes Rolfsen passed, his son Rasmus Rolfsen took over the property and continued using it as a shipbuilding business. The shipyard operations were ceased and the business was abandoned in 1839. Rasmus Rolfsen, on his travels to Copenhagen, had become interested in the liquor business and decided to use the property for that. The business didn’t last long; in the second half of the 19th century, the property was a paint-making business.

    When Rasmus Rolfsen died in 1903, he left no descendants. The city took over the estate in 1906. From 1911 to 1916, the property was used as an orphanage for children from tuberculosis homes. From 1919, the building was used as a nursing home for children with syphilis. The purpose of sending the children there was to isolate them to prevent infection as well as sure them. This home was abandoned in 1939.

    From 1936, the Gamle Bergen Association took over Elsesro in several stages, and in 1949 the museum opened with the first restored houses.

    I’ll go over the original buildings a little more on the walk-through.

    On the way to Gamle Bergen

    For my guide below, I walked from Bryggen to Gamle Bergen. Therefore, my walk starts on the opposite side of the park from the main entrance. Honestly, I found it a lot nicer than using the main entrance, which is on a dirt road. It’s much more peaceful using the side entrance as you pass these lovely historic homes as well as the old shipyards.

    The Ropemakers House

    The point in which you leave the main road to walk to the Gamle Bergen entrance begins at the recently restored Ropemaker’s House. This lovely 19th century home was the residence of the owners of the ropeworks you’ll see behind it.

    The area you walk through now is an area that has many historical monuments. Sadly it’s also an industrial area, so there’s a mix of history and then ugly modernity.

    Måseskjaeret

    Hidden amongst the industrial buildings is Måseskjaeret, a 1798 villa (lystgård in Norwegian) that sits out on the water. The building has been converted into modern warehouse buildings.

    Ditleffsengen & the Sailors Homes (Strandens grend)

    Ditleffsengen is another 18th-century villa we pass on our left.

    After this building, we pass a village-like cluster of old houses known as Strandens grend today. These were the homes of sailors as well as workers at the factories. They also signify the northernmost part of Sandviken.

    Holmefjordboden

    This building was built in 1804 for merchant Johan Ernst Mowinckel, who imported corn, textiles and other ‘kolonial’ products. For a while, this was also a stockfish warehouse.

    Masteboden

    Masteboden, or the ‘mast booth’ is part of the original Elsesro property; and is the long brick warehouse on the waterfront. It was the building that was built to repair the Russian ship. Rasmus Rolfsen repaired the ship, a task which took one year and 8 months. The building is probably the largest privately owned Empire-style brick building in Bergen.

    The Old Postal Road

    Just before the Gamle Bergen entrance, close to the gate there is the first leg of the postal road that ran from Bergen to Trondheim; the route can be followed for many kilometres into the hills above the modern street of Helleveien. At the side of it is a water mill which incorporates the vestiges of one fo the largest mill complexes of Old Bergen, Storemøllen, which began in the 16th century. It was torn down in 1971.

    Gunhilds River

    The brook, besides being a remnant of a once so forceful stream that propelled the giant wheels of the mill, is a historic landmark of the first rank. This is Gunhildåen, ‘Gunhild’s River’, which is mentioned in Bergen’s City Laws of 1276 as being the northern boundary of the city; from here the boundary ran inland far into the hills before turning southward.

    Today the river is called Sandvikselven (Sandvik River), and it comes out of a ravine called Munkebotn (The Monk’s Hollow). The name derives from the fact that in the Late Middle Ages the Dominican brethren in Bergen had property and mill rights in this area.

    Inside Gamle Bergen - the free part

    Now it’s time to go into Gamle Bergen. As we do, it’s worth noting that the park can almost be seen in two parts: there is a free part you can walk through (it’s very popular with locals) and see most of the buildings from there.

    There is also a paid portion of the park, and that consists of the famous ‘street’ and surrounds. During the summer months, the buildings in the paid portion of the park are opened up and you can step inside and view exhibitions. Additionally, they have actors representing people from the 18th and 19th centuries that you can talk to, and they give little demonstrations throughout the day.

    The paid portion of the park is only for the summer months, May to September, and outside of those months you can explore the paid portion of the park for free, however the buildings are closed up.

    Does that make sense? I think so. Let me summarise:

    • Free Park: Some buildings. Open all year
    • Paid Park: Best preserved buildings. Costs money between May-September with entrance into the buildings and exhibitions. Free off-season, but the buildings are closed.

    Now let’s do the free part of the park first.

    Elsero

    One of the first buildings you’ll pass is Elsesro, the original summer residence. The central part was built by shipbuilder Rasmus Rolfsen in 1785, while his son Tønnes Rolfsen added the two wings around 1810 to make it look more grant. Tønnes made the property into a miniature manor that was very popular at the time; he had the whole area landscaped and created dams and small waterfalls.

    Today Elsesro is a lovely Norwegian restaurant.

    The Park

    If you continue past Elsesro, you’ll soon arrive at the garden, which has been designed in the style of an English garden. This was a common type of park in the 18th century. To speak romantically, the English garden was to emphasise man’s rational and emotional sides. At the same time, the park was supposed to look natural.

    Today it’s the home of some ducks and geese.

    The Pavilion

    The pavilion was part of Tønnes Rolfsen’s expansion, and it was designed in a Chinese style. The view from the pavilion once inspired J.C. Dahl to paint one of the finest views of the hometown, but Edvard Grieg also found inspiration here. He borrowed the pavilion in 1873/74 to serve as his studio while writing the music for Bjørnstjerne Bjørnson’s play Olav Tryggvason and then for Henrik Ibsen’s Peer Gynt.

    While the pavilion is nice, it’s the view you come here for. You can see three of Bergen’s seven mountains, Sandviken, and the city fjord. On a sunny day, this view is everything. It’s easy to see why artists like J.C Dahl and Edvard Grieg would come here for inspiration of their city.

    If you walk along the park, you’ll see a lovely white manor hiding behind the trees.

    Frydenlund

    Frydenlund was built in 1797 for the wealthy merchant Lorentz Holtermann as his summer estate at Sandviken. The name means ‘grove of delight’ and became a major summer estate for himself and his family.

    The house consisted of Lorentz, his wife Anna Margrethe, their five small children, a housekeeper, four serving girls, a farmhand and three merchants clerks. Holtmann sold the property in 1832 and it was passed around by various wealthy merchants. In 1870 it underwent a major renovation. After the war, it had to be demolished to make way for a housing project, so it was moved to Gamle Bergen in 1949.

    Inside Gamle Bergen - the paid part

    Now let’s move on to the paid portion of the park. As mentioned above, you can go inside the buildings and see exhibitions there. I’ll try and get back later this year to take photos of the interiors, but for now, I’ll explain each building you can see.

    Let’s start with the so-called ‘main street’. I’ll go through the buildings in order as if you were walking up the hill and passing them.

    The Watchmaker's House & Sea Captain's House

    The watchmaker’s house (green) and the sea captain’s house (white) are located at the bottom of the hill.

    The Baker's House (The Yellow Building)

    The Baker’s House was built in 1728 to house, you guessed it, a bakery. Originally the building was one floor; the second storey and attic were added in 1788.

    This wasn’t just any baker’s house; this was the home and bakery of Master baker Ditlef Martens. His son, Nikolai Martens, ran the bakery from 1840 and the Martins family owned 11 bakeries in the city. Back then, the profession of the baker was a privileged status, and there could only be 25 bakers in the city.

    Nikolai Marten’s great grandfather, grandfather, father, brother, son, grandson and great-grandson were all master bakers in Bergen. This particular bakery was located just behind St. Mary’s Church. The bakery operated until the 1944 explosion.

    The Merchant's House (The Blue Building)

    The Merchant’s House is an example of a Norwegian merchant’s home in Nordnes; this building was located just behind Nykirken Church. Originally this building would’ve had a lovely courtyard, stone cellar, and washhouse. As Bergen became increasingly populated in the 19th century, this house was converted into a three-storey apartment building. In total, there were six apartments.

    Once at the top of the hill, you’ve reached the main square. I’ll go around the buildings clockwise from here.

    The House of Craft and Trade

    The home dates back to after the fire of 1756. It functioned as a residence until it moved to Gamle Bergen. It houses various artisan workshops, though it was originally a residence.

    Inside the building, you can see a printing press, bookbinding workshop, Bergens Tidende (Newspaper) office, plumber workshop, and photo studios with waiting rooms.

    The Glazier's House

    The home dates back to after the fire of 1756. It functioned as a residence until it moved to Gamle Bergen. It houses various artisan workshops, though it was originally a residence.

    Inside the building, you can see a printing press, bookbinding workshop, Bergens Tidende (Newspaper) office, plumber workshop, and photo studios with waiting rooms.

    The Town Hall

    This building was originally owned by the Solhimsviken Indremisjonsforening (Solheimsviken Evangelical Association), which used the hall as a chapel. Yes, this is a religious building! Doesn’t look like it today, right?

    When Solheimsviken was undergoing a major renovation in the 1970s, the chapel was expropriated, and then in 1977 Gamle Bergen was offered the building. The museum uses the hall for assembly events, so all the religious symbols have been removed.

    The House of the Official

    You can tell this was the house of the official. Back then, the most privileged houses were completely symmetrical; compare this to the merchant’s house, the baker’s, or the glazier’s house, for example.

    The House of the Official stood on Kong Oscars Gate (near the Leprosy Hospital/City Gate (Stadsporten). Carsten Lydkien, a customs agent and police prosecutor, lived here from 1795. The property remained a single-family home until 1914, something not many houses in Bergen can claim.

    Dentist's House

    This is another Nordnes building; in fact, it was the neighbour of the merchant’s house. It was a residence for a middle-class family. The building itself underwent a modernisation in the 19th century, getting a lovely new Swiss-style facade. The building is converted into a dentist’s home and surgery representing the period 1885-1900. Take a look at the dentist’s equipment if you can go inside. Thank god we live in the 21st century.

    There is also an umbrella business in the building, because Bergen.

    Dorothe Engelbretsdatters House

    Dorothe Engelbretsdatter is a well known Bergen priest and writer from the 18th century. She is the first known female writer in Norway.

    Dorothe lost her original home in the 1702 fire. As a priest, she had trouble building a new house and lived for a long time in a poor house. When King Frederik IV of Denmark/Norway visited in 1704, Dorothe handed him a poem and prayer letter and asked for his help for a new house. He didn’t help her. After she asked the city authorities in 1709 she got her house.

    The Grocer's Shop

    In Norway, grocer’s shops were referred to as ‘Kolonial Stores’ because they were where people would buy goods ‘from the colonies’. These shops started appearing in the 1870s, but it was not until the 20th century that this type of shop began to dominate the grocery trade. Back when the Kolonial Stores were the grocery shops, they were special local shops. Goods weren’t stored in people’s homes like they are today. Grocery products were bought in small quantities every day. It’s kind of like a ‘storeroom’ for the nearby houses.

    Krohnstedet

    Krohnstedet is a typical summer estate that appeared in Bergen in the 18th century. It was built for the wealthy merchant Hans Krohn. Hans Krohn ran one of the city’s biggest shipping companies that imported and sold wine. He had twelve children with four wives, and only six children survived to adulthood.

    The house is accompanied with by caretaker’s house, which was common at the time.

    Now make your way back to the main square. Once at the main square. You’ll see there is a path that runs in front of the sailor’s house. It’s a lovely secret path where you can see the backs of these old buildings. It will also take you back to where we began and marks the end of my little walk!

    Now onto the practical information.

    Practical Information

     

    Opening Hours

    Gamle Bergen is open from mid-May to mid-August.

    During mid-August to mid-May, you can still walk around Gamle Bergen for free. Just keep in mind that you can’t go inside the buildings.

    Getting There
    Walking

    Gamle Bergen is a thirty-minute walk from Bryggen. The walk is mostly flat, with some gentle inclines. It’s a lovely walk; you walk through historic Sandviken before turning off to reach the ropemaker’s house. For my above walking tour, I walked from Bryggen and took the back entrance from there.

    Bus

    From Bryggen:

    Take Bus 3, 4, 5, 6 from the bus stop in front of the wooden houses. The bus ride takes 10 minutes and the name of the bus stop is ‘Gamle Bergen’. Once off the bus, cross the road and follow signs to Gamle Bergen. This takes you to the main entrance, not my side entrance.

    Tickets can be bought via the Skyss App, on the bus (for 2x the cost of the app), or at a ticket machine.

    I hope you liked my Gamle Bergen guide 🙂

    Sources:

    Gamle Bergen brochure

    Nordhagen. Per Jonas. Bergen Guide & Handbook. Bergensiana-Forlaget. 1992.   

    Bergen Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide
  • Bergen, History, Walking Guides

    A Walk Through the Bergen Fortress

    The Bergen fortress is located roughly between the cruise ship terminal and Bryggen, making it a very convenient place for visitors to explore. It is one of my favourite places to take to, simply because there’s so much history there. Everywhere you look, you hear about Kings, Armies, War and renovation. It’s incredible.

    If you’re in Bergen and want to walk somewhere that’s maybe a little quieter than the town centre, or you love history, the fortress is for you!

    On the 5th of May 2020, I went for a walk through the fortress and took some photos of all the buildings. I used the free museum guide that you can either pick up from Håkon’s Hall or the Rosenkrantz Tower, or you can download it online by clicking the link:

    https://www.forsvarsbygg.no/globalassets/festningene/bergenhus-festning/festningsloype_bergenhus-festning_engelsk.pdf

    For my walk below, I have added a little bit of information and changed the walking path slightly. I am interested in reading stories about places, not just simply what a place is. So I’ve added that to my walk.

    Bergen Travel Guide

    Table of Contents

    History of the Bergen Fortress

    The Royal Estate

    When Olav Kyrre officially founded Bergen in 1070, the Bergen Fortress was to be the site of the new royal estate. The royal estate (at Alrekstad) was too far away from the harbour, Vågen, so Olav Kyrre had it moved.

    Olav Kyrre had the Small Christ Church (Lille Kristkirken) built on the land, Holmen, and laid the foundations for the large Christ Church (Kristkirken), the towns medieval cathedral, in stone.

    The next King of Norway, King Øystein Magnusson, moved the royal estate from Alrekstad to Holmen in the 1100s. He began building residences for the royals there.

    A Stable Kingdom

    After the various civil wars in Norway, King Håkon Håkonsson (King of Norway 1217-1263) took his seat as King of Norway. He made Holmen his residence. Norway became more permanently united under a single, national monarch. The royal residence had to become a more up-to-date fortified complex of stone buildings. Under Håkon Håkonsson, Bergen became the first true capital of Norway. The complex of new buildings at Holmen developed into the country’s political centre.

    During Håkon Håkonsson’s and King Magnus the Lawmender’s reign, Håkon’s Hall and the ‘Keep by the Sea’ (present-day Rosenkrantz Tower) were constructed. Additionally, several other royal buildings and a defensive wall finalised the fortress.

    A wall was also placed around the estate, and various other royal buildings were constructed.

    The Danish Military Base

    At the beginning of the 16th century, Norway was becoming part of the Danish kingdom. As Holmen reflected Norway’s past and connection to independence, the Danish monarchy wanted it gone. The Danes levelled the Christ Church in 1530 for military reasons.

    The union with Denmark meant that Bergen ceased to need a permanent royal residence. However, the estate at Holmen remained a political-administrative centre. This is where the ‘captain of the royal palace’, or the governor, the King’s leading representative in Western Norway, had his headquarters.

    Renovations & Restoration

    King Christian II’s governor, Jørgen Hanssøn (1514-1523) put the royal palace in order again. He developed the estate into an administrative centre, with warehousing for the King’s income, and a military strongpoint. His comprehensive reconstruction gave the complex the name it has had ever since: Bergenhus. -hus at the time signified ‘fortified castle’. The castle received its Renaissance facade when governor Erik Rosenkrantz (1560-68) had the medieval ‘keep by the sea’ converted into a residential tower.

    The Dano-Norwegian absolute monarchy began in 1660. Bergenhus became a military base and any traces of the old royalty vanished. Hakon’s Hall was now a storage building, and its original function would not be remembered for 200 years. The topography of Holmen was altered, and the remains of the old medieval complex are visible only in the area around the old royal palace.

    Bergenhus & Sverresborg’s last major renovation took place when the Napoleonic War started in 1807. Denmark-Norway fought on the side of France.

    World War II

    During the Second World War, the German navy used several of the buildings for their headquarters. The Rosenkrantz Tower had the Germans’ radio network.

    One of the country’s worst events during World War II took place at the foot of the Rosenkrantz Tower. On the morning of the 20th of April 1944, a ship loaded with 100 tons of explosive blew up due to a mishap during welding. Since there was no warning, there were heavy casualties on the shore of Vågen. Iron from the ship and stones torn from the pier blew all over the town.

    The blast wrecked Rosenkrantz Tower (though the stone walls remained). The interiors destroyed, including the recent renovation of Håkon’s Hall. The shock wave set fire to the other side of Vågen, destroying many wooden buildings. Previously, the area had been one of the best-preserved enclaves of 18th century buildings in town. The explosion made Bergen one of the most war damaged towns in Southern Norway.

    The Bergen Fortress Today

    Bergenhus is open to the general public, and it still has military and civilian functions. Large rock concerts and cultural events take place on the grounds. Bergenhus is under the command of the Royal Norwegian Navy, which has around 150 military personnel stationed there.

    It is possible to walk around the fortress; a trail will guide you. There are two museums on the fortress: the Rosenkrantz Tower and Håkon’s Hall.

    The Walk: Start by the Main Gate

    The best place to start is by the main gate. If you are coming with a cruise ship, you will notice there is a gate on the other side of the fortress (no. 31). It’s just a couple minutes to cross through that gate to the main gate. It’s a much quicker walk than taking the main road.

    Parade Ground

    Originally, the third Apostle Church stood on this land. Today, the Parade Ground is an open courtyard. During the summer months, they sometimes have a stage set up for kids performances. If there is a festival, such as the Beer Festival, taking place here, they use the ground for the stalls. Today it’s the main passageway for the Bergen Fortress.

    Rosenkrantz Tower

    King Magnus the Lawmender was the one who built this tower around 1270. The Keep By the Sea had a royal apartment and chapel inside.

    After the capital moved to Oslo, the Keep By the Sea lost its importance. Around 1520, Jørgen Hanssøn renovated the building to a sound state, and today you can still see the Keep by the Sea as it’s the backbone of the modern Rosenkrantz Tower.

    The Present-Day Rosenkrantz Tower

    It was Erik Rosenkrantz who gave the Rosenkrantz Tower its current form. Erik Rosenkrantz was one of the wealthiest men in Denmark-Norway. Erik Rosenkrantz made many changes to Bergen’s structure. For example, he altered the Hanseatic League’s power situation. When he arrived in Bergen in 1559 as the freshly appointed governor, he had spent years warning the King of the Hanseatic’s reluctance against participating in the community. As King Frederik II’s governor, Rosenkrantz had the task of putting Bergenhus to good architectural and military order.

    Stonemasons from Scotland came to incorporate the old keep and Jørgen Hanssøn’s work into a larger residential tower. The new tower is influenced by contemporary Scottish tower architecture. Inside the tower, you can see all three phases of development. The tower looks right down at Bryggen, displaying Denmark-Norway’s old power, especially over the Hanseatic League.

    Construction of the Rosenkrantz Tower finished around 1533. When Scholeus released his print of Bergen in 1580, we see the Rosenkrantz Tower standing tall at Bergenhus. The appearance has been more or less retained throughout the years.

    Fortress Courtyard

    The courtyard has its design from the 18th century. Likely, in Håkon Håkonsson’s time, wooden buildings were standing here. Recent excavations have found traces of old wooden buildings. The previous Apostle Church’s likely stood here as royal chapels.

    Before the Second World War, a lovely garden with trees and flowers were planted in the courtyard. The explosion from World War II damaged the garden, and since then it has been a bare courtyard.

    Fortress Courtyard

    Residence of the Captain, Commander of the Watch

    This is the white building next to the barbican, or directly behind you if you are facing Håkon’s Hall. It was built in 1714 and later connected to Håkon Håkonsson’s barbican. The building sustained extensive damage in the 1944 explosion but has since been restored.

    The Commandant’s Residence

    The Commandant’s Residence is the white building directly opposite the museum entrance to Håkon’s Hall. Originally, King Eirik Magnusson’s ‘Ladies Hall’ from the 1290s stood here. It was probably where the ladies of the court had their place of residence. The Commandant’s Residence was built in 1725 and restored after the 1944 explosion. The appearance is very much the same as the 1725 building.

    All of the whitewashed buildings around the courtyard were built in the early 18th century. Under the white paint, they’d look exactly like Håkon’s Hall and the Rosenkrantz Tower: bare stone!

    Håkons Hall

    The First Håkon’s Hall

    Here’s the most famous and photogenic building at Bergen Fortress: Håkon’s Hall. This is also a museum and you can go inside, and I’ll cover the interior in a separate article. Honestly, the exterior is where it’s at.

    Built sometime between 1247 and 1261, Håkon’s Hall was the royal seat in the Middle Ages, with the King’s Great Hall on the upper floor. Important events such as coronations, royal weddings and important political meetings took place here.

    In the Late Middle Ages, when the capital had moved to Oslo, the original function of Håkon’s Hall lapsed. When the royals visited Bergen in 1450, 1453 and 1486, they likely used Håkon’s Hall for meetings and celebrations. The Hall became a storage room for royal income after Jørgen Hanssøn became governor.

    The Revival of Håkon’s Hall

    National Romanticism in the 19th century saw a renewed interest in the country’s history and old buildings. Håkon’s Hall’s original function was revived in 1840. For the next fifty years, the building saw an extensive restoration. Henrik Ibsen wrote a poem in the halls honour and Henrik Wergeland used the name Håkon’s Hall in one of his poems. Frescoes lined the wall of the interior depicting Håkon Håkonsson’s Saga, and stained glass windows replaced the old windows.

    The explosion in Bergen harbour in 1944 destroyed all the restoration work. Fortunately, the stone walls remained. The hall was restored a second time, though the new decorations are much less detailed and lavish. The hall opened to the public on 11 September 1961, the 700th anniversary of its first use.

    Today Håkon’s Hall is the largest building in the royal palace and the largest secular medieval building in Norway. It was likely the inspiration for Akershus Fortress in Oslo and the royal estate at Avaldsnes. Håkon’s Hall is in use for concerts (especially choir song and chamber music) and banquets (mostly official).

    Jørgen Hanssøn's Wall

    You’ll see the wall as soon as you go through the gate, and it’s well worth walking along it. Jørgen Hanssøn was the Danish lord who oversaw renovations of Bergenhus in the 1520s. He reduced the area of the castle and constructed this wall to outline the boundaries. The new wall replaced sections of the medieval fortifications.

    The Second Stone Walls

    Standing here, you get this incredible view to Håkon’s Hall, and it makes you wonder how everyone assumed this was just a storage building for hundreds of years. The ruins in front of Håkon’s Hall were originally additional stone halls, constructed around the same time. They served as defensive buildings to protect Håkon’s Hall from attacks from the sea but were also residential and functional buildings. The two buildings probably formed an inner courtyard that was the core of the defensive fortifications.

    The Artillery Building

    The artillery building has had many purposes since it was built in the 1750s. For some time, it has been a laboratory and a prison, though not at the same time! During the archaeological surveys of Bergenhus Castle, architect Gerhard Fischer used the building as a residence and office.

    The Old Christ Church Site

    If you walk through the narrow gap in the hedges, you will find yourself on the remains on the old Christ Church. In the Middle Ages, this was the main church in Bergen. Dating back to 1170, the church had the remains of St. Sunniva, the patron saint of Bergen. Two Queens and five Kings have been crowned here, and four kings were interred inside the church. When the site was being developed for military purposes in the early 16th century, the Christ Church was torn down. The work was done so well that archaeologists have been unable to cover but a few traces of it. At the site of the former choir, you can see a statue in memory of St. Sunniva as well as an inscription to commemorate the queens and kings who were crowned and laid to rest here.

    General Mansbach's Avenue

    This part of the park was planted by General Carl Mansbach in the 1830s. Only parts of the park remain. You may notice that the trees have had all their branches cut off; this is because they grow very quickly and there’s a risk of them falling off and hitting someone.

    The Bunker

    After the 1944 explosion, the German’s radio room was damaged. They had Soviet prisoners of war build this bunker in heavily reinforced concrete to withstand air attacks. After the war, the German government gave Bergen some money to destroy the bunker, but instead, they planted the vines on the building to keep it as part of our history.

    The Regimental Building

    Located just behind the bunker, the Regimental Building was completed in 1921 and served as living quarters for the two former regiments from Western Norway. The building was divided in the middle.

    The Main Guard

    Built in the 1700s, the Main Guard has the monogram of King Carl Johan of Sweden and Norway above the gateway. This is because it officially became the Main Guard in 1835 when Carl Johan was ruling. The Main Guard was badly damaged in 1944 but has since been restored.

    Bergen Fortress Museum

    The large white building is the Bergen Fortress Museum. It’s a free museum that has exhibitions on the history of the fortress, World War II, and current activities of the Norwegian Army. It’s a fascinating museum worthy of a visit, and I’ll cover it in a separate article.

    Sverresborg

    The First Sverresborg

    The last stop on this walk is Sverresborg Fortress, but keep in mind it’s an uphill walk and may not be suited for everybody. The history of Sverresborg goes back to the 1100s when the royal residence at Holmen was unfortified and vulnerable. During the civil war, King Sverre constructed two of the first stone forts in Norway: one in Trondheim and one in Bergen. Sverresborg took part in several battles during the civil war, and the site was reinforced by King Håkon Håkonsson around 1250. Sverresborg remained as a medieval fort until around the 1500s. It’s not mentioned much in history, probably because it was overshadowed by the more modern facilities at Holmen. In 1477, the locals complained that the Hanseatic merchants had torn down its walls.

    The Present Form of Sverresborg

    The fortress received its present form in the years 1807-1813 when Denmark and Norway were drawn into the Napoleonic Wars. From the 1830s onwards, a park is situated at Sverresborg. During World War II, the Germans established two anti-aircraft batteries in the fortress. After the war, Sverresborg was used as an execution site in connection with treason. Seven Germans and one Norwegian war criminal were executed at Sverresborg in 1946. The military still uses the site occasionally as a training ground, but the locals like to use it to sneakily watch the concerts at Koengen! Directly under Sverresborg is the residence of the ‘Master of Ramparts’, the oldest part going back to the 18th century. As the very cool name implies, the master of ramparts was in charge of the maintenance and upkeep of the buildings and fortifications. The yellow barracks were used as an academy for petty officers up until World War II, where it sustained heavy damage. Today the building houses the department of the Norwegian Armed Forces.

    I hope you enjoy the walk of Bergen Fortress!

    Bergen Travel Guide
  • Bergen, History

    The Churches of Bergen

    Bergen is a city of churches; in fact, as early as the 13th century there were no less than 13 churches in the compact harbour area. Considering the city has had a large number of fires, churches have come and gone. Some have remained throughout history, though they have changed in appearance.

    I know, when you visit Europe there are constant churches tour guides try to take you to. Trust me, I’ve heard it first-hand! Still, there’s no avoiding that Bergen is a city of beautiful, historic churches with a lot of history. During the summer months, most are open to the public and throughout the year most have regular service. Throughout the year, the churches are also the host of various concerts and performances. Be sure to check the list of Bergen events for when you plan to visit.

    For this article, I thought I’d put together an overview of Bergen’s past and present, as well as some stories as to what happened within them. I’ve also tried to include visitors information & what takes place today inside each church.

    A common question I get is: “What religion is that church?” Here in Norway, almost every church is a Lutheran church as that is the country’s main religion. All churches are Lutheran unless otherwise stated.

    Enjoy!

    Bergen Travel Guide

    Table of Contents

     

    The Churches of Bergen Map

    Churches That Are No More

    The Christ Church (Kristkirken)

    This one is probably the most gut-wrenching, especially when you consider how important it was historically. Olav Kyrre founded Bergen in 1070 and the town served as the capital in the 13th century. The royal palace was located where Bergen Fortress is today and this was arguably one of the most important sites in the country.

    Olav Kyrre was the one who commissioned the Christ Church; it was originally a small wooden church. The small wooden church didn’t last long; Christ Church was rebuilt in stone in the 12th century. The church functioned as the site for the crownings of Norway’s various kings. Christ Church is important historically as it is where the first King’s of Norway were crowned. King Magnus Erlingsson was crowned here in 1163. The following royals were then crowned here:

    • The rebel king, King Sverre Sigurdsson (1194)
    • Our peacetime King, King Håkon Håkonsson (1247)
    • His son, King Magnus Håkonsson (the Lawmender) (1261)
    • And then his son, King Eirik Magnusson (1280)

    The choir of the church held the graves of some of the last King’s of Norway’s oldest royal dynasty, which had started with King Harald Fairhair in the 10th century, as well as some of King Sverre’s dynasty. The church also held the remains of Saint Sunniva, the patron saint of Western Norway.

    Loss of the Church

    Shortly before the Reformation in 1537, the Christ Church was destroyed for military reasons. Norway had entered into a union with Denmark and the Danes wished to turn the old royal palace into a military fortress; similar to what it is today. The relics inside the church were taken away and melted down to be turned into coins, including Saint Sunniva’s casket.

    Today no trace of the church remains. You can see where the church stood thanks to a row of hedges that have been placed over the original foundations. There is a memorial statue at the site where the altar used to stand. It has a list of all the Kings and Queens who were buried here and an image of Saint Sunniva.

    Read the history of Bergen by clicking here.

    The Small Church of the Saviour (Lille Kristkirke)

    We don’t know that much about the Small Church of Our Saviour. The church was likely built of wood and therefore fits the ‘stave church’ style. It may have been used as a prototype for the small rural churches across the country, and the best examples are found at Urnes and Kaupanger today.

    Nikolaikirken i Bergen – Wikipedia
    Nikolaikirken depicted in the drawing from 1580. You can see it’s in ruins. Source: https://no.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nikolaikirken_i_Bergen
    St. Nikolai’s Church (Nikolaikirken)

    Poor, poor St. Nikolai’s Church. This church didn’t have much luck when it came to longevity. When the Hanseatic League moved in, they preferred St. Mary’s Church and turned it into their German Church. In the earliest picture we have of Bergen, from 1580, we can see that St. Nikolai’s is rotting in the background. This may be because of the Reformation when many of Bergen’s churches went out of business. However, the proximity to the Hanseatic League leads us to believe that the locals just didn’t want to use it. The first town hall (until 1558) and the town square (until 1470) were located next to the church. Both of these moved after fires, and it’s another reason why St. Nikolai’s lost its importance. If you want to see the town hall, it’s underneath the car park on Nikolaikirkeallmenningen!

    The Old Sagas mention the church; first in 1160 and again in 1198 when the church burnt down. After it was rebuilt, it became an important fire watch station. Absalon Pedersøn Beyer wrote of the church in 1567 when he said that the Norwegians who lived close to Bryggen had used the church. Once the Hanseatic’s began to dominate, locals stopped using the church.

    Nothing remains of the church today, just the street name ‘Nikolaikirkeallmenningen’; a classic example of crazy long Norwegian street names.

    St. Margareta Church (Margaretakirken)

    Another church we can’t quite place on the map, but it was likely close to the Aquarium at Nordnes. This church has a fascinating story with it; the story of Princess Margareta of Norway and Scotland:

    The Story of Princess Margareta

    Princess Margareta was the daughter of Eirik Magnusson and Queen Margareta Alexanderdatter, who was of Scottish origin. Eirik was the son of Norway’s King Magnus the Lawmender. Eirik was crowned as the King of Norway along with his wife, Margareta at the Christ Church in 1280. In 1283, Princess Magareta was born, but sadly the same year her mother died and was buried at the Christ Church in Bergen.

    Princess Margareta became recognised as the heir to the Scottish throne. At the age of six, Princess Margareta was sent to Scotland to marry Prince Edward (who later became King Edward II of England). However, Margareta never married. She fell ill and probably died at the Orkney Islands in 1290. Her body returned to Bergen and was buried alongside her mother.

    Ten years later, in 1300, a woman appeared in Bergen claiming to be Princess Margareta. By then, King Eirik had died and couldn’t confirm it was his daughter. This new Margareta had arrived by ship with her husband from Lubeck. She told the locals that she had travelled to Scotland but was sold by her foster mother, Ingeborg Erlingsdatter. She ended up in Germany where she got married. Now she was back and wanted to assert her rights as the royal daughter!

    The locals actually believed her, but the bishop and authorities didn’t. ‘Margareta’ and her husband were convicted as imposters. The man was beheaded and the fake Margareta was burned at the court in Nordnes in 1301.

    Despite this, the locals had great faith in the fake Margareta and began to pilgrimage to her court. Worship of her was banned in 1320, but people continued to praise her. The fake Margareta had been dead for sixty years when a church was built in her honour.

    Source: http://www.histos.no/bergen/Margaretakirken

    Was she real?

    Was Margareta real or not? Probably not. The fake Margareta had grey hair and claimed to be forty years old; the real Margareta would’ve been 17. Also, when Margareta’s coffin had returned to Bergen, King Eirik had opened the coffin and confirmed it was, in fact, his daughter.

    11 Munkeliv Klosterets Kirke/Margaretakirken (Munkeliv Monastery ...
    Munkeliv Monastery site. Source: https://bergen1517.com/11-munkeliv-klosterets-kirkemargaretakirken-munkeliv-monastery-church-incl-margareta-church/
    Church of the Arch Angel Michael

    The Munkeliv Monastery stood tall at Nordnes; it was, after all, the largest and most wealthy monastery in Norway. Part of the monastery housed the Church of the Arch Angel Michael, built some time in the 12th century. During the Reformation, the commanding officer of Bergen set fire to the church. Archaeological excavations in the 19th century uncovered the site of the church, which today is at Klosteret 4-8. The site is at the top of the hill as St. Michael in Europe is typically worshipped on mountain tops or in natural caves.

    St. Hallvard’s Church

    St. Hallvard’s Church was a tiny church located near Lille Øvregaten. Some of the church wall remains, located in between the apartment buildings at Halvardkirkeplassen.

    St. Lawrence’s Chapel

    This small chapel existed between where the Bryggens Museum and St. Mary’s Church is today. You can still see the foundation walls, with the entrance carved out.

    Norway’s Reformation City
    https://vimeo.com/187803313

    In 2017, Bergen was Norway’s Reformation City. This video explains what exactly happened to the churches during the Reformation. They’ve also got a self-guided Reformation walking tour, which you can view here: https://bergen1517.com/walking-tour/

    Current Churches

    St. Mary’s Church (Mariakirken)

    St. Mary’s Church is the oldest and most authentic church in Bergen; built between 1130 and 1170. Since Christ Church was nearby, St. Mary’s wasn’t the main church in Bergen. When the Hanseatics came to Bergen, they were given St. Mary’s to use as their church. St. Mary’s Church became known as the ‘German Church’ until the early 20th century. Thanks to the Hanseatic merchants, however, the church has been kept in wonderful condition.

    Since St. Mary’s Church is one of the must-sees of Bergen, I’m going to explore it closely in a separate article.

    Church Service: Sunday 11am (English)
    Visitors Information: Open during the summer months. Will not open in summer 2020 due to the coronavirus

    Korskirken (Bergen) – Ukjent - Ajapaik
    Korskirken (Holy Cross Church)
    Source: https://ajapaik.ee/photo/74006/korskirken-bergen/
    Holy Cross Church (Korskirken)

    The Holy Cross Church was first built in 1181. However, this church has burnt down in almost every fire that Bergen has had, and gradually it has changed form. It has a variety of architectural styles; from the Renaissance portal to the Romanesque walls.

    Originally there was a large churchyard around the church, but over the years it has gradually been closed in. On the northern wall, you can see one of the remaining gravestones. It is for Alida Fisher, the daughter of one of Bergen’s most renowned bishops, Johan Nordahl Brun. Alida married schoolmaster Johan A. Fisher and became a mother to a boy before she died when she was 16 years old in 1801.

    On the south-east all is a monument commemorating the dead at the Battle of Alvøen, a navy battle between the Norwegian and English in 1808. This episode of the Napoleonic War greatly stimulated patriotism in Bergen, though fighting the English was tough for many due to the long trading history.

    Today the city missionary uses the church. Every Wednesday at 12pm is masse, and on other business days is a prayer at the same time. The church also host’s the annual Grieg Festival.

    See the program for the 2020 Grieg Festival here: https://www.grieginbergen.com/program.html

    Church Service: Mon-Tues, Thurs-Fri prayer at 12pm. Wed masse at 12pm
    Visitors Information: Not generally open to the public, though you can enter if the doors are open.

    Bergen Cathedral
    Bergen Cathedral (Domkirke)

    The Bergen Cathedral has existed for 900 years, though its appearance has changed over time. The church was originally called St. Olav’s Church and received its new name after the Reformation in 1537.

    The Franciscan Monastery took over the church in the early 13th century. Their church was plain, with only one nave and a few ornaments. The church burnt twice during the time they owned it, in 1248 and 1270. King Magnus the Lawmender had the church rebuilt. When King Magnus died, his remains were placed in the church. Well, according to legend anyway. No remains have ever been found in the church.

    St. Olav’s Church became the Bergen Cathedral after the Reformation. The Bishop had a residence built there, and a lavish garden planted. The garden had fish ponds, herbs, and wonderful trees. There were even fruit trees from abroad and they cultivated figs, vine, chestnut, coriander and laurel. Some trees even had apples. After the plague came to Bergen in the 17th century, the graveyard was continuously extended.

    Watchmen used the tower from 1624 until 1903. The lower part of the tower has a cannonball embedded in its wall after a battle between the English and Dutch in Bergen harbour in 1665. The tower was rebuilt with a baroque spire after the 1702 fire. A medieval wall on the south side of the tower was restored in 1880.

    Nykirken - Bergen domkirke menighet
    Nykirken (The New Church)
    Source: https://kirken.no/nb-NO/fellesrad/Bergen/menigheter/bergen-domkirke-menighet/om-oss/kirkene-vare/domkirken5/
    The New Church (Nykirken)

    ‘The New Church’ dates back to 1621. The locals at Nordnes complained it took too long to walk to the Bergen Cathedral, so they wanted their own church.

    The Archbishops Residence

    The remains of the Archbishop’s Residence lie underneath the church. There were other churches on the peninsula already in the 13th century, and the Munkeliv Monastery was also active. The Archbishop has lived on Nordnes since the 13th century. The Archbishop’s residence doubled as a merchant house, as the Church had large estates in Northern Norway and a sound financial connection to the fisheries. The Archbishop relied on the Hanseatic League at Bryggen to export the episcopate’s fish and at the same time import the goods needed by the Archbishop.

    It is still possible to see the ruins of the Archbishop’s Palace under Nykirken. The remains indicate that the palace had an area of 500m2. The estate must’ve looked like a fortress, with thick walls around it.

    The exterior of Nykirken resembles its 17th and 18th century originals. The baroque portal from 1670 has the monogram of King Christian V on it. After every fire, there was a great effort into keeping the original style of the church. However, due to economic reasons, the church existed without a steeple for many years. The original steeple was added after the church was rebuilt in 1956.

    Nykirken is now the ‘children’s church’. If you visit the church, you’ll see that it has been extensively decorated in children’s art.

    Visitors Information: The church opens to the public during the summer months. Between June and August, it is open Monday-Friday 10am-2pm.
    Church Service: Sunday 11am (in Norwegian)

    St. John’s Church (Johanneskirken)

    St. John’s Church is one of the newer churches in Bergen; built between 1891 and 1894. The church is built in a Neo-Gothic style with Dutch red brick and a copper roof, which has turned green over the years. It is the main church for the Lutheran religion in Bergen. It is also the tallest building in the city; the tower is 61m high. The church seats 1,250 people.

    Visitors Information: The church has a regular program, but generally it is open Thursdays 2pm-4pm; Fridays, and Sundays. Sometimes there is an organ concert on Thursdays in the evening. Find more info at the website (in Norwegian) here: https://kirken.no/nb-NO/fellesrad/Bergen/menigheter/bergen-domkirke-menighet/om-oss/kirkene-vare/domkirken4/
    Church Service: Sunday 11am (in Norwegian)

    Sankt Jørgen kirke – Wikipedia
    St. Georges Church. Source: https://no.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sankt_J%C3%B8rgen_kirke
    St. George’s Church (Sankt Jørgen Kirke)

    St. George’s Church was built as the hospital chapel in Bergen since the main medical institutions were all close by. It is also located next to the leprosy hospital, which was first mentioned in history in 1411 and at the time was run by the Nonneseter Abbey. The church was originally just for the leprosy patients, but eventually, it became its own parish serving the surrounding area. The parish was also a base for chaplains at the nearby city prison, poor house, and home for the widows.

    The church burned down in 1640 along with the leprosy hospital and wasn’t rebuilt until after the fire of 1702. The present appearance is the result of a major construction in 1789-1790.

    Visitors Information: You can enter the church as part of a visit to the Leprosy Museum.

    Fantoft Stave Church - Wikipedia
    Source: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fantoft_Stave_Church
    Fantoft Stave Church

    Fantoft Stave Church isn’t technically an active church; rather, it is an attraction that is open during the summer months. Still, I had to include it!

    Built in the 12th century, Fantoft Stave Church was originally located at Fortun on the Sognefjord. In the 19th century, the village wanted to get rid of it and build a new church. The Bergen merchant F. Gade heard of this and bought the church. In 1883 he re-erected it here on his farm at Fantoft and decorated it to look like a real church, including putting a fake grave in front of it.

    In 1995, the church was the victim of arson and burned down. Meticulously rebuilt, today has more of a ‘typical stave church’ appearance.

    I will do a separate article on Fantoft soon!

    Visitors Information: mid-May to mid-September 10:30am – 6pm
    Church Service: No church service.

    Sandvik Church - Wikipedia
    Sandvik Church. Source: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sandvik_Church
    Sandvik Church

    Sandvik Church was built in 1881. The design for the church was a competition, and the winning architect was Ernst Norgrenn. Ernst Norgrenn passed away before his plans were realised. Renowned architect Schak Bull (who designed Troldhaugen) took over and completed the church.

    The church seats 500 people.

    Landås Church

    Landås church dates back to 1966. The style is very post-war, built in concrete. It has offices, parish halls and seats about 600 people.

    Søk - Bjørgvin bispedøme
    Slettebakken Church. Source: https://kirken.no/nn-NO/bispedommer/bjorgvin-bispedome/sok?buildingid=120103001
    Slettebakken Church

    This is perhaps one of the most unique churches in Bergen. Slettebakken Church was built in 1970. Tore Sveram was the architect. He has designed many modern churches influenced by contemporary architecture. The municipality was wary of his vision, but the parish was very excited. It certainly stands out today!

    St. Mark’s Church

    St. Mark’s Church dates back to 1939. Built in the functionalist form, it is one of the few churches in Norway in this style. They did try to soften it with some elements of art deco. The church seats 650.

    Laksevåg Church - Wikidata
    Laksevåg Church.
    Source: https://www.wikidata.org/wiki/Q11982996
    Laksevåg Church

    Laksevåg Church is one of my favourite churches, though it may be because I pass it every day on my daily walk. Constance Janson, the widow at Damsgård Manor, gave the plot of land and funded the construction of the church. Laksevåg Church was completed in 1874. The church has beautiful decorations both inside and out, such as the sculpture above the church door. Woodcarver Odd Ystanes made it; he’s the one who taught the famous woodcarver Lars Kinsarvik.

    St. James Church

    St. James Church was built in 1921. The youth community group has used the church since 2003. The church consists of a sound studio, computer room, church room, a living room, and a kitchen.

    St. Pauls Church

    St. Paul’s Church is the only Catholic church in Bergen. Father Christopher Holfeld-Houen founded the congregation in 1857. It was granted church status in 1870. At first, there were only between 20 and 30 members. As of 2012, there were just under 12,000 members.

    Fana Church | Mapio.net
    Fana Church.
    Source: https://mapio.net/wiki/Q1770324-en/

    Fana Church

    Historically, Fana Church is one of the most important churches in Bergen. It was first mentioned in documents in 1228, when Pope Gregory IX wrote about it in a letter. In medieval times, it was an important pilgrimage site because of a miracle silver cross. According to legend, two brothers (one of them blind) must have fished a silver cross outside Korsneset in the Korsfjord in Fana. After touching the cross, the blind brother could see again. They brought it to Fana. The sick came to touch the cross, and magically were healed as well! The ill supposedly threw away their crutches after touching the cross. In 1546, the priest Peder Simenssen burned six horse carts full of crutches.

    The Lord of Bergenhus, Tord Roed, took the silver cross during the Reformation. As he was sailing away, his boat sank. The cross was lost forever.

    A private owner bought Fana Church in 1723. This was fairly common at the time; The Danish-Norwegian monarchy desperately needed money, and Norway had a lot of old churches. It remained privately owned for 150 years. Two villagers were able to buy the church, and by that time it was in serious disrepair. Most of the furniture was gone; auctioned off and lost. The church was heavily restored.

    Sources

    Nordhagen. Per Jonas. Bergen Guide & Handbook. Bergensiana-Forlaget. 1992.

    Pedersen, Annette-Friis. Bergen: Streets Broad & Narrow. Histos Forlag. 2005.

    Histos Website: http://www.histos.no/

    Various Norwegian Wikipedia Articles

  • Bergen, History

    The History of Bergen

    One of the things I love most about Bergen is its history. I was never really a history buff until I moved here; once I started reading, I couldn’t stop! Bergen is full of history and historic buildings, and everywhere you walk you can find a historical story. It’s incredible. Before you visit Bergen, it’s worth having a quick read about its history. It will make your visit even more special.

    Bergen Travel Guide

    In this article...

    The Royal Estate

    It’s believed there has been a settlement in Bergen since the last Ice Age, but it wasn’t a known place until the royal estate Alrekstad was built at the foot of mount Ulriken and on the Store Lungegårdsvann (Lungegård Lake). The estate has roots dating back to the 400s, as evident in the burial mounds on the site, but it wasn’t until King Harald Fairhair unified Norway as one country that the estate began to grow. King Harald Fairhair built up Alrekstad as one of his various royal estates across the country. He took up residence in the 9th century, and from this, the city began to grow. The street Årstadgeilen, which runs from the student house Alrek down to Store Lungegårdsvann (which was called Alrekstadvågen), is Bergen’s oldest street.

    Moving Bergen to the Bay

    King Harald Fairhair’s successors, Håkon the Good and Olav Kyrre, ruled the country from the estate. Olav Kyrre ruled the country for 26 years from Alrekstad and the estate had a very strategic position; surrounded either by water or mountains, with the Puddefjord as the only entrance to the estate. Olav Kyrre who looked out to Vågen (The bay, where Bergen city is today) and decided that he should move the estate there. Archaeological finds indicate that there was an urban settlement trading there in the 1020s, but Olav Kyrre is known as officially founding Bergen in 1070. He decided to move the royal estate to Holmen (today the Bergenhus Fortress) to better defend his new city. At Holmen, he planned the construction of the great Christ Church, the cathedral for the whole of Western Norway.

    Bergen is Built

    Olav Kyrre founded Bergen in 1070, making it one of Norway’s oldest cities. The original name of Bergen was Bjørgvin; the first element “bjørg” (today’s berg) means ‘mountains’, while vin means ‘new settlement where there used to be a pasture or meadow’. In short, Bjørgvin means “the green meadow among the mountains”. In the 14th century, the name was written was “Bervin”, “Bergin” and “Berven”, and by the end of the Middle Ages it was simplified to “Bergen”. The name “Bergen” likely came from the English and Germans misunderstanding the pronunciation since ‘berg’ is a German word for mountains. The Hanseatics used the word “Bergen” from the early 1300s. But we are getting a little ahead of ourselves, let’s head back to Olav Kyrre.

    The City of Churches

    King Harald Fairhair’s successors, Håkon the Good and Olav Kyrre, ruled the country from the estate. Olav Kyrre ruled the country for 26 years from Alrekstad and the estate had a very strategic position; surrounded either by water or mountains, with the Puddefjord as the only entrance to the estate. Olav Kyrre who looked out to Vågen (The bay, where Bergen city is today) and decided that he should move the estate there. Archaeological finds indicate that there was an urban settlement trading there in the 1020s, but Olav Kyrre is known as officially founding Bergen in 1070. He decided to move the royal estate to Holmen (today the Bergenhus Fortress) to better defend his new city. At Holmen, he planned the construction of the great Christ Church, the cathedral for the whole of Western Norway.

    The Christ Church was built as a wooden church at Holmen (remember, today it’s the Bergenhus Fortress) and it became the main cathedral for Western Norway. The remains of St. Sunniva, the patron saint of Western Norway, was moved to the Christ Church and placed at the high altar in 1170. The church was the place where Norway’s kings were crowned, dedicated and buried. The first royal coronation in the Nordic countries was Magnus Erlingsson’s (King of Norway from 1161-84) coronation. This was the most important church then. Sadly, it was levelled by the Danes in 1531 who were converting Holmen into a military fort. The gold, altar and caskets (including that of St. Sunniva) were taken to Copenhagen and melted down into coins. Nothing remains from the Christ Church today, but you can stand on the site and see a pillar commemorating the history of the church.

    A church was also built at Alrekstad, the “Church of the Holy Cross”. The church was first mentioned in 1395 but was probably built in the 1600s. This church was demolished in the 1600s but you can still see the stones from the church, as they were used to build the walls along Årstadgeilen. Alrekstad itself ceased to be a royal estate when King Magnus the Lawmender in 1277 bequeathed the property to the Nonneseter Monastery.

    The property was maintained until the Reformation in the 1530s (and the beginning of the Danish Union). Vinens Lunge, a Danish governor who was instrumental in forcing Norway into the Danish union in the 1530s, forced the royal estate and monastery to go abandoned. He renamed Alrekstadvågen to Lungegardsvann, after himself. By the 1900s, the royal estate and monastery were no more. I’ll explain why the Danes did this to most of Bergen’s buildings below.

    Growth as Norway’s most important city

    Many important buildings were built up in the 12th and 13th centuries. King Øystein Magnusson (King of Norway from 1103-23) built the ‘Apostle Church’ at Holmen (no longer in existence) and founded the Munkeliv Monastery at Nordnes in 1110, which was one of the largest monasteries in Scandinavia and Norway’s wealthiest during the Middle Ages.

    Around 1140, the Nonnester Monastery was established at Marken (where the train station is today). More churches were built; St. Mary’s Church, Korskirken, and the Olav Church (now the Bergen Cathedral) were first built during the 12th century. The Bergen Cathedral School was established during the same period. In 1184, King Sverre Sigurdsson (King of Norway from 1177-1202) built Sverresborg (Sverre’s Fortress) over Holmen. In the first half of the 13th century, an additional three monasteries were built around the city. At its peak, there were over 12 churches in the inner city.

    Holmen became Norway’s power centre. Before and during the civil wars of the 12th and early 13th centuries, it was one of the most powerful royal residences in the country. It fortified the city’s position as the Hereditary Kingdom of Norway’s main city, a position the city had until 1314 when Oslo took over as the capital. During this period, Norway was a large and powerful empire. This was also when Bergen became Northern Europe’s most important trading city.

    The Trading Capital of Northern Europe

    Olav Kyrre was the one who granted rights to Bergen as a market town in 1070, but during King Øystein Magnusson’s Bergen expanded rapidly. Trade to foreign countries was of the most importance, and there was a growing interest from Europe in the goods from Northern Norway, primarily the stockfish (dried cod). This gave Bergen a very special position.

    When Håkon Håkonsson became the King of Norway, he made Bergen the capital and focused very much on west-oriented politics, increasing trade especially with England. He also built up Holmen as a better fortress to defend the harbour and all the trading activity by building a wall around the fortress and also built Håkonshallen around 1261 as the royal residence. His son, King Magnus the Lawmender (King of Norway from 1263-1280) built a castle close by, which in the 16th century was converted to the Rosenkrantz Tower. He also built a third Apostle Church in Holmen, following the pattern of the Sainte-Chappelle in Paris, and inside placed a precious relic, a piece of Jesus’ crown of thorns encased in crystal. It was a gift from King Philipp III of France.

    Håkon Håkonsson was the one who believed Bergen should be the centre of trade. The royal power decided that all imports and exports of goods abroad should take place in Bergen, so they could keep control of customs duties and taxes. Bergen’s role in foreign trade was further formalised when in 1294 the German merchants were banned from sailing north of Bergen, and in 1310 the ban was extended to all foreigners. Bergen was the stop for all foreigners wanting to trade, especially for goods from Northern Norway.

    King Magnus the Lawmender’s son, Eirik II Magnusson (King of Norway 1280-1299) took over, and after his death, his brother, Håkon V Magnusson, Duke of Oslo, took over. As he had his residence in Oslo, the functions of the capital were moved to Oslo.

    The Hanseatic League Come to Bergen

    Trade of stockfish didn’t begin in the 13th century: it’s believed that stockfish had been traded from Norway since the 1100s. But stockfish was the main reason the city became one of Northern Europe’s centres for trade. The Hanseatic League became interested in trading in Bergen. The Hanseatic League began in the 13th century when the northern German cities (Lubeck, Bremen, Hamburg) merged into a joint trading enterprise with their jurisdiction that shared profits and losses. This was the Hanseatic League. They established an extensive trade network with over 300 locations across the Baltic and North Seas, as well as four head offices with a permanent Hanseatic settlement. These were Bergen, Bruges, London and Novgorod.

    The Black Death

    Their position was further enforced after the Black Death in 1349 killed at least half of Bergen’s population. The King of Norway desperately needed income in the country, as well as food and other goods from Europe, and decided that the Hanseatic League should have exclusivity to the trade of stockfish.

    Each year the North Norwegian fishermen sailed to Bergen and traded their stockfish for various goods from Europe. Most products exported were stockfish, clipfish (salted dried cod, from the 17th century), herring, other types of fish, fur products, timber, hides, skins, butter and tallow. In return, the Germans imported flour, grain, malt, salt, beer, hemp, laundry, hardware, glass, honey, wine, and other luxury goods. Both Norwegian and foreign ships dominated Bergen’s harbour. The foreigners were mostly German, Englishmen, Scots and Dutchmen, and some of them eventually settled in Bergen permanently.

    By the end of the 14th century, Bergen had established itself as the centre for trade in Norway.

    Tensions with the Hanseatic League

    Thing’s weren’t always peachy with the Hanseatic League, though. The Germans typically avoided paying taxes and subject themselves to their laws on many occasions. Tensions reached its peak in 1455 when the Hanseatic merchants stormed and destroyed the Munkeliv Monastery, killing both the chief and bishop of Bergen. Still, though, you can’t forget the importance of the Hanseatic League. After the Black Death, Bergen (and Norway) was incredibly poor and in desperate need of food and goods. Without this Hanseatic connection, people in Bergen, and more importantly Northern Norway, wouldn’t have been able to survive in such remote parts of the world. So, while the Hanseatic League may not have been popular in Bergen, they were loved by those in Northern Norway.

    The Danish Union

    After a national meeting in Copenhagen in 1536 by King Christian III, Norway became a country under Denmark. This was a political ploy by the King to increase his power while the idea of a monopoly was strong. Around the same time, the Reformation occurred. The Reformation forced Norway to adopt the Lutheran Protestant religion, and this crippled the old wealth of the Catholic religion. The Reformation opened up access to church property, and the Danes took most of the gold and items from the Norwegian churches, including Saint Sunniva’s casket from the Christ Church in Bergen and Saint Olav’s casket from Nidaros Cathedral in Trondheim. Norway couldn’t stop the Reformation or the union; Norway was without leadership, seriously poor, and already dependent on the Danish royal house.

    After the Danish union, Danish lords began to come to the area to establish law and order, as well as diversify trade. Around this time, the Hanseatic League was lessening in importance in Europe, and many of the trading offices had closed down. The North Norwegian fishermen were still dependent on the Hanseatic League, and they continued to operate out of Bryggen for 150 years after the Hanseatic League had ended, but the Danes allowed for other countries to establish their trading warehouses. Scottish, Dutch and non-Hanseatic Germans settled in the city on the side of the harbour opposite Bryggen, and Norwegians even had their own warehouses.

    Conflicts, Battles & Witches

    The Hanseatic League didn’t react well to these changes, and there were often conflicts between the Danish-Norwegian authorities and the Hansa federation. The Hanseatic merchants would evacuate the city, introduce trade blockades, loot buildings, and take part in violent riots. Eventually they settled down, and many took Norwegian citizenship.

    Bergen wasn’t the safest city in the 16th and 17th centuries. In the 1560s alone, there were five murders a year; this means 1 murder per 1,200 residents. That is higher than the rates today in New York. The town had an executioner in the court of Nordnes, and it was here that Anne Pedersdatter, one of 350 ‘witches’, were burned at the stake during this time.

    The Battle of Vågen

    In 1655, the city’s harbour was the site of the Battle of Vågen, when an English naval flotilla attacked a Dutch merchant and treasure fleet supported by the city’s garrison. A Dutch merchant navy, chased by English warships, sought refuge in Bergen’s natural harbour. The garrison at Bergenhus chased the English away after a bloody sea battle.

    It’s worth noting that during this time Bergen was one of the largest cities in Scandinavia. In 1300, approximately 7,000 people lived in Bergen, compared to 3,000 in Nidaros (Trondheim) and 2,000 in Oslo. At the time, medium-sized cities in Europe had a population between 5,000-10,000, and Bergen was the only Norwegian city of this magnitude. In the 1600s, Bergen was the largest city in the Nordics with 15,000 inhabitants; Copenhagen had about 13,000 and Trondheim, Norway’s second-largest city, had about 5,000 inhabitants. Bergen remained the largest city in Norway until the 1830s when it was overtaken by the capital Christiania (Oslo).

    Trading Dominance Ends

    Until the 17th century, Bergen had enjoyed exclusive rights to mediate trade between Northern Norway and abroad. However, the Hanseatic dominance of the city’s trade gradually declined in favour of Norwegian merchants (often of Hanseatic ancestry) and in 1753 the Hanseatic Kontor finally closed. Bergen maintained its monopoly of trade in Northern Norway until 1789 when Vardø and Hammerfest were granted town status and market rights.

    20th Century Growth

    In 1901, women were granted municipal voting rights in Norway, and in Bergen, a handful of female municipal representatives were elected that year.

    By the early 20th century, the export goods were mainly fish products as well as timber. Additionally, steamship companies and industry were growing along the Bergen harbour, and Bergen became the starting port for Hurtigruten. New economic life was also growing in the city, including banks and insurance companies. Urban expansion had been huge during 1877 and 1914, and Bergen’s rural district was incorporated into the city.

    After World War I, Bergen was hit by economic crises with closed industrial plants, ships in storage, and so on. A lot of the merchant fleet had been damaged during the war, despite the fact Norway was neutral.

    World War II

    Bergen was occupied on the first day of the German invasion on 9 April 1940, after a brief fight between German ships and Norwegian coastal artillery. The Bergen section of the operation was fronted by the German cruisers Konigsberg and Cologne, with 1900 soldiers on board. The fort at Bergen was staffed with 33 officers and 279 corporals and privates. The fort shot at the ships as they sailed towards Bergen at 3:58am, and it immediately became obvious how outdated the fortress was; one of the few grenades that hit the ships did not go off. The ships did not fire back, but sent the message “stop shooting!”. By the time the locals woke up on 9 April, Nazi flags were flying on Bergen’s buildings.

    Resistance groups were operating out of Bergen, including Saborg, Milorg, the Theta Group, Sivorg, the Stein-organisasjonen, and the Communist Party. Additionally, the Shetland Group also operated near Bergen.

    losed industrial plants, ships in storage, and so on. A lot of the merchant fleet had been damaged during the war, despite the fact Norway was neutral.

    Bombing Raids

    The city was subject to some Allied bombing raids, aimed at German naval installations in the harbour, and some of these caused Norwegian civilian causalities numbering about 100. Nordnes was also damaged by Allied bombing raids, and the old theatre was destroyed. One of the most known events took place in 1944, when the city was hit by the bombing of Laksevåg, a suburb in Bergen. The British were targeting the German U-boat pen Bruno, located at the end of the harbour. 152 aircraft took part in the raid, which dropped 1,432 bombs over the area, most of which hit civilian targets. 191 civilians were killed, including 61 kids at the Holen School, which was accidentally bombed.

    Bergen after the explosion

    In 1944, the Dutch ship Voorbode exploded by the fortress quay with 120 tons of ammunition on board. The explosion was so powerful that 131 houses disappeared, 117 houses were condemned, 45 houses were severely damaged, and 3,500 buildings were damaged. 98 people were killed and 4,800 were injured. Important historical buildings such as Nykirken, Tollboden, the Rosenkrantz Tower and Håkonshallen were severely damaged by later restored.

    Post-War Developments

    In 1955, the last devastating fire took place, when 1/3 of Bryggen burnt down. The area was investigated by archaeologists, and they discovered the first settlement of Bergen. The Bryggen Museum stands there today.

    Bergen Travel Guide
  • History, Kirkenes, World War II

    The History of Kirkenes

    I love Kirkenes. Honestly, it’s one of those places I didn’t think much of until I got there. What makes it so special is the blend of so many cultures, religions and customs that come together to make one special town. Walking through the town, you’ll hear Norwegian, Finnish, Russian and Sami. This didn’t happen overnight; Kirkenes’ multiculturalism is from hundreds of years of history. I’ve put together my overview of the history of Kirkenes, focusing on the important events that made the town what it is today.

    Kirkenes Travel Guide

    The Sami Settlement Between Two Countries

    The history of Kirkenes begins with its Sami settlement. The Skolt Sami, or Eastern Sami, have been using the land around Kirkenes for hundreds of years. They would come here with their reindeer flocks to graze along the Varangerfjord. In the winter, they would go to Northern Finland.

    Kirkenes and surroundings was a shared Norwegian-Russian district with no strict borders. The present-day border is from 1826, and it took only a few years before the first settlers came to the area. 

    Border Establishment

    When the borders came into place, the region was heavily affected. For example, Neiden, 45km west of Kirkenes, was cut in half. The area is the centre of the Skolt Sami culture in Norway, which is the eastern Orthodox Sami. Many of the residents lived part of the year in Russia, and the borders led them to settle on the Kola Peninsula in present-day Russia.

    In Neiden you can still find St. George’s Chapel, a Russian Orthodox chapel built in 1565. In 1902, the Norwegian government funded the Neiden Chapel. The church resembles a stave church to assert the state’s sovereignty in Eastern Finnmark. If you are driving towards Inari in Lapland from Kirkenes, you will pass the church. Today there is a Skolt Sami Museum in Neiden, close to St. George’s Chapel.

    Kirkenes: The Church on a Headland

    In the mid-19th century, the settlement around Kirkenes decided to build a church near the fjord. Originally, the settlement had the strange name ‘Piselvnes’ (Pis River Headland). With the church, the settlement became Kirkenes (Church Headland).

    Discovery of Iron Ore

    Kirkenes grew thanks to the discovery of iron ore 10km south of the settlement. Around that time, very few people lived in Kirkenes. The mining company SydVaranger A/S was founded and the town grew rapidly. In the early 20th century, the population grew to 8,000. Most people came from far away. Besides Norwegian and Sami languages, Russian, Swedish, English and German were common. During World War I, iron ore from Kirkenes was in high demand. At most, 1,500 people worked in the mines. In 1908, the Hurtigruten made Kirkenes its turning point.

    World War II

    With its proximity to the Soviet Union, Kirkenes was valuable throughout World War II. When the Winter War broke out in Finland, Kirkenes was a safe haven. More than 1,300 refugees from Finland and the Soviet Union crossed.

    Less than a year later, in July 140, German forces invaded Kirkenes. Kirkenes became one of the most important bases in Norway for the Germans.

    The Murmansk Front

    Up to 10,000 German soldiers were present in Kirkenes during the war. The main goal of the Germans was to block British shipments into Murmansk. Additionally, Kirkenes was important during the German invasion of the Soviet Union. When Operation Barbarossa began in 1941, Allied convoys supplied Murmansk with food and materials. It was then sent to Moscow to prevent the fall of the capital. The Germans used Kirkenes to target and attack these convoys.

    Kirkenes became a target for bombing and air raids by both the Allies and the Soviets. Air-raid warnings sounded over 1,000 times and there were over 300 bombing raids. After Malta, Kirkenes was the place in Europe subject to the most intensive bombing.

    The Partisans

    The area around Kirkenes was also important for the partisans. Norwegians signed up to train in espionage in the Soviet Union. After returning to Norway, they set up observation posts along the Finnmark coast. From there, they reported on German shipping and military activity. Their reports were for the Soviet Union.

    They lived in simple conditions and were completely isolated. During the Cold War, many of them ended up with accusations of having Communist sympathies. A memorial for 11 freedom fighters stands near Kirkenes. They helped partisans collect information about the Occupation. They were caught and sent to a POW camp in summer 1943. A couple of months later, they were killed close to the memorial spot.

    The fighting between Kirkenes and Murmansk cost the lives of tens of thousands of soldiers. The terrain is difficult, and the weather made it worse. It was difficult to establish supply chains for the soldiers. Most soldiers either died in action or they froze to death in temperatures as low as -40C/F.

    Over 80 prisons and POW camps were located in the area around Kirkenes, and at one point more than 7,000 Soviet prisoners of war were held in these camps.

    Liberation of Kirkenes & Rebuilding

    In October 1944, Finland and the Soviet Union agreed to a ceasefire. The Germans intensified their plans to retreat from Finnmark. As the Soviets began to advance on Kirkenes, the Germans began their retreat. During the retreat, the Germans used their scorched earth tactic. Anything they passed, they set on fire. Anything that was remaining in Kirkenes after all the bombing raids burned down.

    Most of the population fled to the mines to hide underground. Up to 3,000 people lived in the mines – 11 babies were born there! The movie Under a Stone Sky from 1997 is about this event.

    Only 13 houses were standing after the war. The church that gave the name ‘Kirkenes’ did not survive.

    On the 25th of October 1944, the Soviets entered Kirkenes. The locals gave them a heroes welcome. Kirkenes was the first town in Norway liberated by the Red Army.

    Learn about the history between Kirkenes and Russia by visiting the Grenseland Museum.

    Video about the liberation: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bM5cJkXUOx4

    After the liberation, the locals had to live in the ruins and cellars of bombed houses. It took some time for rebuilding to begin. The general shortage of timber meant that materials had to be imported. Many children were sent to Sweden to ‘fatten up’ with Swedish families for a couple years.

    Kirkenes was rebuilt thanks to the Marshall Plan from the United States. Moreover, with the rebuilding, Kirkenes became the first town in Northern Norway to get sealed streets.

    Post-War Developments

    During the Cold War, Kirkenes was just one of two borders between NATO and the Soviet Union (the other was in Turkey) and for much of the 1990s it was the only border between Russia and NATO.

    The mines in Kirkenes re-opened in 1952 and were incredibly important for the post-war building that was taking place all around Europe. However, the iron market fell in the 1990s and Sydvaranger mining completely shut down in 1996. The loss of their traditionally largest industry led to major changes in Kirkenes.

    In the 1990s, Kirkenes underwent changes and became an important city for the Barents region. The Kirkenes Declaration was signed in 1993, and the Barents Euro-Arctic Region was formalised as a collaboration between Finland, Sweden, Norway and Northwest Russia. The core idea was ‘people to people collaboration’ across the borders, especially with Russia after the Cold War ended.

    Kirkenes was finally granted town status in 1998.

    Kirkenes Travel Guide