Dalen

  • The Most Haunted Places in Norway

    The Most Haunted Places in Norway

    Norway is the land of folktales and trolls, but haunted places can be a little tricky to find. In fact, when I was making a ghost tour of Bergen, I got stuck because many Norwegians don’t believe in ghosts! Still, with all the history to be found in Norway, there have been some gruesome incidents that have led to tales of hauntings, so I did a deep dive online to find the most haunted places in the country.

    Here are some of the stories on the most haunted places in Norway that I found. Will you add these to your Norwegian adventure? Be sure to let me know!

    The Most Haunted Places in Bergen

    I wrote a seperate guide for the most haunted places in Bergen, which you can view below. 

    The Most Haunted Places in Norway

    Akershus Fortress (Oslo)

    Akershus Fortress is probably one of the least surprising haunted location Norway. There are few places in Norway that have more supernatural tales than in the fortress. Most of the stories come from the time the fortress functioned as a prison for Norway’s most notorious criminals. During their time at the prison, they would be forced to do hard labour and the prison guards used irons, chains and isolation as disciplinary techniques. There have been reports of whispers and scratching along the fortress hallways.

    There is another haunted tale of Akershus Fortress – the demon dog Malcanisen. It is said of Malcanisen approaches you, then it means you will soon die; everyone who encounters him dies within three months. There have also been sightings of ‘nightpyres’ – burning women the size of babies with awful smiles. Their appearance is thought to precede a fire at the fortress. 

    Nidaros Cathedral (Trondheim)

    I remember visiting Nidaros Cathedral with the intent of learning about the ghost stories, as this one fascinated me the most. Considering the cathedral’s history, it is probably not so surprising that there are tales of ghosts here. 

    The ghost here is in fact a monk. The monk was first seen in 1924 by bishop Marie Gleditsch, who claimed the apparition had a bloody gash along its throat as though it had just been cut. There was even blood dripping from the wound!

    There have been frequent reports of inexplicable chanting and organ music in the cathedral late at night. 

    However, keep in mind this ghost is a little controversial as historians claim no order of monks were ever connected to the cathedral. 

    Munkholmen (Trondheim)

    This tiny island has been an abbey, fort and a prison. People have heard and seen mysterious appearances here. Many believe the ghost to be the famous prisoner Peder Schumacher Griffenfeld, who was imprisoned on the island for 18 years.

    Utstein Kloster (Stavanger)

    Utstein Abbey is the only medieval monastery in Norway that’s still in operation. As a former monastery, it has housed many men – but it’s a woman’s presence that still lingers in the place today. In the 18th century, the monastery was bought by the Garmann family. Christoffer Garmann lived there with his wife, Cecilia, who unfortunately died in childbirth in 1759 at 25 years old. Despite his promise to her on her deathbed that he would never marry again, Christoffer got engaged to a woman 36 years younger than him (!) 20 years later.

    Hoping to escape the promise to his wife, he arranged for the wedding to happen in Stavanger Cathedral. But Cecilia found him anyway, appearing in front of him in the middle of the ceremony. Christoffer died eight days later. Cecilia has been seen wandering the monastery in her wedding dress, presumably to make a point.

    Dalen Hotel (Dalen)

    It’s not just historic fortresses and churches that are haunted, but hotels too! Dalen is one of the most beautiful historic hotels in Norway. . Located in the small village of Dalen in Telemark, the hotel was built in the late 19th century to accommodate guests taking the Telemark Canal. Guests and staff share accounts of Room 17’s notoriety, where the spirit referred to as “The English Lady” lingers in her eternal unrest.

    Originally known as Miss Greenfield of England, she arrived at Dalen Hotel one spring morning during the late 19th century and stayed as a guest for several months. Remarkably, her pregnancy remained a secret from the hotel’s staff. After she left, they made a grim discovery in the room – a lifeless infant. Miss Greenfield was arrested and charged with murder but took her own life before the trial could begin.

    To this day, a table is set for her at the hotel restaurant. The sound of a baby crying can be heard. 

    Source (Article in Norwegian)

    Hotel Union Øye (Øye)

    Hotel Union Øye is a charming historic hotel located in the Sunnmøre region near the Hjørundfjord and Geirangerfjord. Here, though, a tragic love story took place at the end of the 19th century. 

    This ghost story involves Linda, a servant girl who fell in love with a German officer. The officer was trapped in an unhappy marriage and he fell in love with Linda. Whenever the officer would visit the hotel, he and Linda would stay in the ‘Blue Room’.

    The officer tried to get a divorce but was denied. This upset him to the point that he committed suicide. As you can imagine, Linda was heartbroken by this. She ended up taking her own life too.

    People hear the ghost of Linda weeping in the Blue Room. Guests checking into the hotel get a silver bowl of garlic. If you’ve had a long trip and just don’t feel in the mood for ghostly shenanigans, you can keep the bowl in your room. However, if you’re curious, all you have to do is leave the bowl outside the door and wait. 

    Source (Article in Norwegian)

    Bærums Verk (Oslo)

    Bærums Verk is a historic village and ironworks located just out of Oslo. The Værtshuset restaurant here is one of the most notorious haunted places in the country – it is also one of the oldest restaurants of its kind in Norway as it opened in 1640. Many accounts of supernatural occurrences have been documented here. Many attribute these phenomena to the ghostly presence of Anna Krefting, the woman who managed and oversaw Bærums Verk for five decades during the 18th century. She has been spotted several times in the restaurants second floor, eternally dressed in green.

    In the administration building of Bærum Verks shopping district, there have been reports of a phone that rings every night at the exact same time. Those who pick up never hear anything but an odd, static hissing sound in the other end.

    Lier Asylum

    Lier Asylum is probably the most famous of the haunted places in Norway, at least among Norwegians. The old Lier Psychiatric Hospital opened in 1926. Between the 1930s and 1960s, the hospital started “experimental treatments” which included subjecting patients to lobotomies, LSD, and medically induced comas for days at a time. Due to the disproportionate ratio of patients to nurses, there were lots of reports of violence. Many of the old buildings have been torn down to make way for new housing, and the other buildings will also be renovated as apartments. Would you buy an apartment in that building?

    Article about Lier Asylum (in Norwegian)

    The Church Ruins of Nes (Vormsund)

    Over time, there have been accounts of peculiar phenomena, strange noises and unusual illuminations within the ruins of Nes Church in Vormsund. At the heart of these occurrences lies the enigmatic figure of Jacob Christian Finckenhagen, a priest who served the church from 1800 to 1837.

    The tales surrounding his life and fate remain a subject of controversy. Some assert that his offspring are interred within the walls behind the alter, while others claim he met his demise by hanging from the church rafters.

    Alternatively, it’s suggested that he simply succumbed to old age. Regardless of the uncertainty, numerous reports persist of his restless spirit wandering the church ruins during the night. Some visitors claim their movements become impaired and sluggish like they are submerged in water.

    Fredriksten Fortress (Halden)

    Fredriksten is a historic fortress in the town of Halden and is historically one of Norway’s most significant fortresses.

    Here you’ll find the White Lady – Den Hvite Dame – who is said to reside at the fortress. She was once the fortress commander’s mistress. After her lover was killed by a cannonball fired by Swedish forces attacking the fortress, his remains were not recovered. She killed herself by jumping off the fortress wall and is said to appear near the white tower at midnight.

    The Most Haunted Places in Norway

    There are so many fascinating historic sites in Norway, and the fact that they have these tales and legends makes them even more interesting to visit. Would you visit these haunted places in Norway?

    If I’ve missed a story, be sure to let me know!

  • Drive it Yourself: Scenic Telemark Drive on the Fv37 & Fv38

    Drive it Yourself: Scenic Telemark Drive on the Fv37 & Fv38

    Telemark is a region in southern Norway famous for its natural beauty and industrial heritage. On this drive, we’ll pass the birthplace of skiing, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and go to one of Norway’s highest peaks! To finish it all off, we visit Norway’s largest stave church. Join me for a beautiful drive through Telemark.

    In this article...

    Download this Guide

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    Download this guide to have it as a PDF ready to go for your road-trip!

    All downloadable guides come with an interactive Google Map for easier navigation. 

    Online Guide

    Downloadable Guide

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    The Drive: Telemark

    Kongsberg

    Kongsberg is a historic mining town located in the southern part of Norway. It was also one of the wealthiest and important towns in Norway until the mid-19th century, making it an interesting place to visit. Kongsberg was established as an industrial town based on silver mines in 1623. It was initiated by King Christian IV, who brought Germans from the silver mines in Saxony to show the Norwegians how to mine. Kongsberg was Norway’s largest mining community and is the country’s oldest industrial town. It was Norway’s second-largest town in the mid-19th century, after Bergen.

    Løka Gamle Bridge

    Historic Bridge

    The Løka old bridge is a girder bridge from 1924 designed to cross the Jondalselva. It is built in concrete, which works the same way as steel in truss bridges. The railing supports the bridge, which is also called the whale bridge. There are only three bridges of this type in Norway. It replaced an older stone vault bridge, which is also preserved nearby. The bridge is on the westbound side of the highway.

    Notodden Municipality

    Notodden municipality is named after the historic town of the same name. The municipality borders the Telemark Canal and the eastern course of the Heddalsvatnet lake. Much of the municipality wasn’t inhabited until the beginning of the 20th century, when Notodden was established as a centre of industry.

    Notodden town is an interesting historic town, but it is not on the Fv37. To get there, shortly after entering the municipality there is a turn off onto a road that’ll lead to Notodden (20km / 12 miles away). Notodden is on the E134 highway.

    Gransherad

    Village

    Gransherad is a small settlement with around 750 people living there. The composer Klaus Egge was born in Gransherad. Gransherad Church is from 1849. Before this church, there was a stave church from the 14th century here.

    From Gransherad, you can follow the Fv361 to the E134, where you can head to Notodden.

    Tinnoset

    Village

    Tinnoset is a small settlement at the point where the Tinnsjå lake and Tinnelva River meet. Historically there was a hydropower plant here. This is where the ferries from Mæl (on the northern end of the lake) would offload their goods onto the train at Tinnoset railway station so they could be transported to Notodden. The railway station is still standing and is now a heritage-listed building. The address is: Tinnoset 31, 3691 Gransherad

    After Tinnoset you will be driving along the Tinnsjå Lake. The Tinnsjå Lake is Norway’s third-deepest lake, with an average depth of 190 metres.

    Gravtjørn Rest Area S/F Hydro Sabotage Site

    Historic Site

    The S/F Hydro was a Norwegian steam-powered railway ferry that delivered raw materials and fertiliser from the factory at Rjukan to the port in Skien. The ship was sunk by members of the Norwegian resistance in 1944, as the Nazi’s were using it to transport heavy water out of Norway. This happened in the lake parallel to where the parking place is, and there is an information sign at the parking place.

    Tinn Municipality

    Tinn municipality is mostly a mountainous municipality with parts of the Hardangervidda plateau included as well as Gaustatoppen, a famous mountain peak. The coat-of-arms represents five droplets of water. The design was chosen to represent the five rivers in the municipality and the importance of hydropower for the development of the town.

    Mæl Station

    Historic Site

    Mæl station was the ferry station on the historic Rjukanbanen railway that used to operate here. The station shut in 1991.

    The Rjukanbanen is the railway line running between Mæl and Rjukan. It was opened in 1909 and closed in 1991. The line was a private railway owned and operated by the Norsk Hydro company. There was a need to transport raw and materials in and out to the coast. The Rjukanbanen was the innermost link in an original four-part transport chain from the factory in Rjukan to the port in Skien. The railway will forever be linked to the introduction of modern industry in Norway, but also Norwegian war history. The battle for heavy water during World War II ended when the Norwegian saboteurs sank the steam ferry DF Hydro at a depth of 430 metres on Tinnsjøen on 20 February 1944.

    Mæl is still a port of call for the Tinnsjø ferries MF “Storegut” and “DF Ammonia”, two ferries which in the summer months are open for charter trips and tours. There is a place to park here as well as information signs about the history of the area.

    A short detour off the highway is a war memorial. Address Rollagvegen 44, 3658 Miland, Norway

    Miland

    Settlement

    Miland is a small village with a population of 291. The area is considered to have some of the nicest plots with views towards the mountain Gaustatoppen. Mæl church is located here and is a wooden church from 1839. It was built to replace an old stave church.

    Baustasteinen på Miland is a memorial stone is from 1914 and is in memory of those who fought for Norway at the initiative of the youth association. It has a quote from Per Sivle: “And if there were those who wanted to ravage the country, there were also those who wanted to defend it”.

    Rjukan

    Rjukan is a fascinating town. Here you will find the Vemork Museum, which is about Rjukan’s development as an industrial city and the role of the hydropower plant during World War II. After all, Vemork was the site of Norway’s most famous sabotage operation. 

    Gaustabanen

    Funicular

    Gaustabanen is a treat. You ride an underground funicular that was built for NATO during the Cold War (the purpose remains a mystery) and come out the other end on Gaustatoppen, a nearly 2000m-high mountain that (on a clear day) has a view over 1/6 of Norway!

    This is not to be missed (unless the weather is bad). But you will need at least 2 hours – preferably 3-4 – to do this ride. 

    Vemork Museum

    Museum

    The museum at Vemork is famous for its presentation of Rjukan’s war history. During World War II, Vemork was the site of the Norwegian heavy water sabotage, where Norwegian saboteurs prevented the Germans from producing nuclear weapons from heavy water, which was produced here. The exhibits in the museum present the four heavy water sabotages and the allied efforts to develop a nuclear bomb.

    During the war, the Nazis took over Norsk Hydro. German scientists discovered that uranium is useful for energy and weapons. Also, heavy water acts as a moderator in a reactor and contributes to the refining of uranium, suitable for atomic bombs. If you aren’t a science person, all that matters is that the Nazis were developing heavy water at Vemork in Norway for their atomic bomb.

    Norwegian resistance members discovered this, and immediately set about sabotaging their operations. They launched several attacks on the facility. The most famous is the sabotage operation in winter 1943. While they were able to damage the facility, production soon continued. However, the Norwegians were able to destroy the boats leaving Rjukan via Mæl and thus halt the Nazi plans to export the heavy water back to Germany.

    The museum is open throughout the year. You can find up-to-date information on their website:

    https://www.nia.no/en/vemork/

    Hardangervidda Nature Centre

    Museum

    The road follows the southernmost side of the Hardangervidda National Park, which is a popular place for hiking. In fact, there’s even a hiking trail where you can follow the route the resistance members took when they damaged the Vemork facility. The Hardangervidda National Park Centre contains maps and useful information if you want to set off on a hike. There’s also a cafe and small museum here.

    Visit their website here: http://www.hardangerviddanasjonalparksenter.no

    Vinje Municipality

    Vinje municipality is a remote municipality with about 1.2 inhabitants per square kilometre. The municipality is located at the northern end of Telemark and extends into the Hardangervidda National Park.

    Rauland Church

    Historic Site

    Rauland Church is a historic church site. In pre-Christian times, the site where the church is today was probably a pagan worshipping site. After the Christianisation of Norway, the site was replaced with a stave church. The stave church stood until 1801, when it was demolished to make way for the present church. Several famous people from Telemark are buried at the church, including Myllarguten (see below).

    Several elements of the old stave church are in the building, such as two cast iron crucifixes from the 12th century, the church bell, collection box, baptismal dish and several candlesticks.

    To get there, follows signs from Krossen. The church is 5.5km from the town on the Fv362 towards Haukeli.

    Åmot

    Village

    Åmot is a small town with a population of 673. The word “Åmot” refers to two rivers meeting and is a common placename in Norway. Åmot is roughly halfway on the E134, so it is a popular stop with truck drivers and therefore also an important traffic hub.

    Nesland Church

    Historic Site

    Nesland Church is a small wooden church from 1847 built in the Empire style. The old Nesland church was a stave church and it’s not sure when the church was built. In the Middle Ages, Nesland Church must’ve been a vigil church, where the congregation gathered every Midsummer night to keep vigil. In the 19th century, the church had become too small for the congregation, so a new church was built. This is common for almost all churches in Norway; in the 19th century a law was passed that a church must fit at least 30% of the congregation. Because of that, most stave churches were too small and therefore torn down.

    Tokke Municipality

    The municipality is located at the end of the Telemark Canal and the administrative centre is the end point for the scenic canal cruise.

    Tokke has long traditions of exporting brynestone all the way back to the Viking Age. The stone is a sharpening stone. The stones from Tokke have been discovered in archaeological digs in many places in Northern Europe, including Iceland, Poland and England. Today the main industries are agriculture and forestry.

    There used to be bears in the area, which is why the coat-of-arms is of a bear. Bears also feature in many local legends and stories from Tokke.

    Dalen

    Dalen is a short detour off the Fv38 but well worth visiting. Dalen is a small town located on the westernmost endpoint of the Telemark Canal. The Telemark Canal goes all the way to Skien on the coast of Norway – originally the canal was used for industry, but today it is more popular with tourists. When the canal was completed, it was referred to as the ‘eighth wonder’. Ferries were able to link Telemark with Oslo through the canal and then Oslofjord.

    Dalen Hotel is a famous historic hotel; it is one of the best preserved hotels from the 1800s. The hotel was built with the opening of the Telemark Canal in 1892. When it opened, it became popular with European royals.During the occupation, it was a resort for German officers. Most of the interior was stripped and sold for parts. The building fell into disrepair.

    After the war, the building was bought by singer and evangelist Aage Samuelsen. The hotel got a lot of attention and was restored in the 1980s. The hotel reopened in 1992. In 2000, the hotel won the Europa Nostra award for outstanding conservation. The architecture is a mix of Swiss chalet with national romanticism and Dragestil, a type of Norwegian architecture inspired by Viking and medieval art.

    Eidsborg Stave Church

    Historic Site/Museum

    Eidsborg Stave Church is one of the 28 remaining stave churches in Norway. Built some time between 1250 and 1300, the church stands out for being one of the smallest stave churches. Additionally, it is an important pilgrimage church that gave way to its own cult in the old times! Eidsborg Stave Church is located on the hill above the village of Dalen, and today is part of the Vest Telemark Museum. A visit to the church also includes a look at the historic farm buildings from the region.

    To get here, continue through Dalen and up the switchback road. Eidsborg Stave Church is 6km out of Dalen and has the address Museumsvegen 9, 3891 Høydalsmo

    Skafså Church

    Historic Site

    Skafså Church is from 1839 and is known for its interior. The church used to have a crucifix, but the crucifix is now in a museum to preserve it. The crucifix shows the crucified Jesus with a king’s crown, i.e. not the usual crown of thorns. In the 1950s the church was restored. At the front of the choir are bridal chairs modelled after an old Renaissance chair from the former stave church, which was probably demolished in 1826 because it had fallen into disrepair.

    Åmsdals Verk

    Village

    Åmdals Verk is a small village that grew up around the mining activities of Åmdals Verk Gruver, or the mines. The history of copper mines in Åmdal goes back to 1540, when King Christian III of Denmark/Norway sent German miners to Telemark to start mining. The first quarrywas called Moisesberg. The ore tunnels were founded in 1689. The copper mines have a complicated history with operations, shutdowns, and problematic owner.s The miners were the heart in an urbanised mountain village where the minter’s everyday life dependned on good ore deposits and political conditions outside Europe.

    The museum building is located in a reconstruction of the old sjeide house.

    The museum is called Åmdals Verk Gruver and has the address Åmdalsvegen 42A, 3882 Åmdals Verk and is located a few minutes out of town off the Fv38. Check the website for up-to-date opening hours: http://www.vtm.no

    Kvitseid Municipality

    Kviteseid is a municipality in the upper part of Telemark. The municipality has existed since the Middle Ages and was an important administrative centre in Telemark. Kviteseid was originally an agricultural community without any real urban development. The most important industries here are still agriculture and forestry, though tourism is on the rise.

    Kviteseid is known for its distinctive cultural traditions, including folk music, arts and crafts, food and architecture. The dialect in Kviteseid is one of the Norwegian dialects that has preserved the most features from Norse and is close to the most conservative form of nynorsk.

    Vrådal Church

    Historic Site

    Vrådal Church is a long church from 1886 that has space for 250 places. The pulpit, altar, baptismal font, brass candlesticks, altar foot and other furniture from the old church are in the current church. The previous church was from 1686 and was demolished when the new church was completed. There was likely a stave church here before then what would’ve been similar to Eidsborg Stave Church. The church from 1686 was likely the first octagonal church in Norway.

    The church is located on the westbound side of the highway with the address Vråliosvegen 461, 3853 Vrådal

    Drangedal Municipality

    Drangedal municipality is largely a forest municipality with the industry centered around land and forestry. The municipality is seeing a declining population. Despite that, Drangedal is a known area for skiing and is home to the largest ski resort in Telemark called Gautefall. Drangedal has a large number of cabins because of the ski opportunities and proximity to larger cities. Drangedal was also one of the first municipalities to get full broadband coverage.

    Prestestranda

    Village

    Prestestranda is the administrative centre and has a population of 1,300 people. The site was developed after the railway station was laid there when the Sørlandsbanen from Bø to Kragerø opened in 1927.

    The Drangedal Bygdetun is an open-air museum with 19 historic buildings, most of which were gifts from the villagers. Drangedal Church is from 1773.

    Kragerø Municipality

    Kragerø municipality is a coastal community named after the town of the same name. In total, there are 495 island, islets and reefs and 4,000 holiday homes here, making Kragerø a popular summer destination for Norwegians. In fact, Kragerø was even referred to as “the peal among coastal towns” by Edvard Munch. More will be covered in the section about Kragerø town.

    Kragerø

    Kragerø is a well-known holiday destination for Norwegians. Located at the end of a peninsula between the Kilsfjorden and Hellefjorden, the town grew as an important harbour from the 16th century onwards. Timber was shipped from the forests Telemark out of Kragerø and onwards to Europe. The town’s business was characterised by timber exports, shipping and shipbuilding from then until the First World War, and at one point Kragerø was one of Norway’s largest shipping towns.

    Continue the drive

    Numedal Valley

    The Numedal Valley will take you from Kongsberg up to the mountains of Western Norway. 

    Previous Drive

    Egersund to Dalen

    This drive goes from the southern cost up to the mountains. 

    This drive is part of the multi-day series “Ultimate Norway”. You can read about the whole drive below. 

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

    Download this guide to have it as a PDF ready to go for your road-trip!

    All downloadable guides come with an interactive Google Map for easier navigation. 

  • Drive it Yourself: Egersund to Dalen

    Drive it Yourself: Egersund to Dalen

    Looking for an alternative road to the mountains, bypassing the tourists, highways and seeing the secret beauty of Norway? This drive is perfect. I know, the Egersund to Dalen drive is not the most commonly suggested route in Norway, but it is worth the consideration. Both towns are very cute and scenic with plenty to do, and they are separated by a beautiful valley and mountain range that you’ll pass.
    On this page, you’ll find practical info outlining what you’ll see between the two towns, plus where you can stay and what you can do. Be sure to watch my own drive, where I’ve put together a timelapse with information. 
    If you have done this drive, or have any questions for me, let me know in the comments. 

    In this article...

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    The drive: Egersund to Dalen

    Egersund

    Egersund is a charming small town on the south coast of Norway. It has lots of wonderful shops and cafes, making it a perfect place to stop on your road-trip. 

    Trollpiken

    Rock Formation

    Trollpikken is a unique and strange rock formation in Norway. In the last few years, it has gained popularity due to its, well, shape. ‘Pikk’ is a relatively new word in Norway that translates to ‘dick’, and as you can see in the image, the name describes what locals have come to recognise the formation as.
    Trollpikken made the news in 2017, when it was vandalised and severed off using power tools. The locals were saddened by this and a crowdfunding campaign raised an incredible 226,000 NOK and within two weeks the rock was reattached (watch the video on the left!). One person was arrested for vandalism.
    Since this incident, there was more effort made in promoting Trollpikken. It’s got its own website now (click here), which goes over the history, folklore, and practical info of the site. There are road signs leading to the large carpark, and the walk to the monument is well marked with modern signs. The name is also recent; it’s only from 2017.
    For those interested in geology, the rock is anorthosite. This is a very rare type of rock that’s found on the south-western coast of Norway and the moon. Yes, the moon! When astronauts were training for going to the moon, they came here to practice collecting rock samples. Trollpikken is 12m (39ft) high.
    It is relatively easy to hike to Trollpikken, and the info can be found here: https://ut.no/turforslag/1113153/trollpikken

    Helleland

    Village

    Helleland is a small village just outside Egersund. The language used here is nynorsk rather than the commonly used bokmål. The Sørlandet train connection between Oslo and Stavanger runs through (and stops at) Helleland.
    Helleland Church is from 1832. It is built in wood and has seats for 500. The architect was Hans Linstow, who also designed the Royal Palace and Karl Johans gate in Oslo.
    In Helleland, there are memorials dedicated to the British aircraft which crashed during the occupation of Norway by Nazi Germany in connection with the Operation Freshman sabotage attempt, part of an action that was aimed at the Vemork hydroelectric plant, site of heavy water production. Furthermore, there is a cave in the forest which was used as a hiding place during World War II. People who had kept illegal radio equipment hid in this cave, and the Germans never discovered them.
    You’ll find a grocery store in Helleland (Coop). 

     

    Terland Klopp

    Bridge

    Terland Klopp was built around 1800 as a stone slab bridge. With 21 runs and 60 metres, it is considered the largest in the Nordic region of this type. The bridge crosses the river Gyaåna, which we are following on this road. The valley we are in is called the Gyadalen Valley.
    Terland Klopp has not been in use since 1977; today it is a listed monument. It is considered the best-preserved bridge of this kind. 

    Agder County

    We now cross over into Agder kommune. Originally, Agder was a medieval petty kingdom that governed itself until Norway was unified into one Kingdom. The name Agder was not used between 1662 and 1919; it was reinstated after the counties Aust-Agder (East Adger) and Vest-Adger (West Adger) were established. Since 2020, those two counties were merged into one: Adger. 

    Sirdal Municipality

    Tonstad

    Village

    Welcome to Tonstad! The name means “Tone’s Farm” and is a typical small town name; towns were often built around farmsteads where the church was located. The church here is Tonstad Church and it’s from 1852. It seats 300.
    The town has a large hydroelectric power station and a large ski centre. In fact, Tonstad has one of Norway’s most modern biathlon facilities, and it is known for producing many highly regarded biathletes. The local high school uses the facility for training.
    Tonstad is located on the northern end of the Sirdal Lake. In July, the boat ‘Snorre’ does tours of the lake every Wednesday. A guide on board tells you the stories and local legends, as well as some tales of Vikings from the Norse Sagas. 
     At Tonstad you’ll find road signs leading to Kjerag, a famous natural monument and hiking trail.

    Dorgefossen

    Waterfall

    Dorgefossen is a regulated waterfall, though it is more like a gorge. Due to the water regulations, the waterfall is much smaller than it used to be.
    An old legend from Sirdal tells that death row inmates got one last chance to save their lives by jumping over Dorgefoss. If they managed to do so, they would be free. If they did not succeed, the fall of the waterfall and the rapids fulfilled the death sentence.
    It is possible to swim in the river, but without warning water can be released from the pond, making the water colder than normal.
    By the road, there is a picnic area with restrooms and information boards. The road we drive over goes over the waterfall via the Dorge Bridge. The bridge is from 1919.

    Sinnes

    Village

    Sinnes is a small village located in the upper part of the Sirdal valley. There are two ski centres here: Ålsheia and Tjørhomfjellet. Together, they make the largest alpine facility in southwestern Norway.
    Several alpine and cross-country competitions are held in the area. The largest one is Sesilåmi, which is a 52km long ski run.
    Sinnes is a popular cabin area for people from Stavanger, Sandnes and Jaeren.

    Setesdalsheiene

    Mountains

    The mountains to the north are called Setesdalsheiene. Just north of them is the Hardangervidda plateau, while the Ryfylke mountains lie to the west. The highest point is 1,300m (4,300ft). Wild reindeer herds live here.

    Håhellervatn

    Lake

    The lake on our right is Håhellervatn. The total walking distance around the lake is 6km (4 mi).  
    On the east side is a cave called Håhelleren. It has a lot of stories associated with it. After the Napoleonic Wars, two families moved to the area. They first settled in a fisherman’s hut, and then built a home. Their main job was to keep the road clear and shelter road users in bad weather. They were unable to grow grain on the site, but they did try to grow potatoes, though without luck. After living here for 26 years, they realised it was not such a great place to live and they moved to Sirdal. After their house was torn down, road users used the cave for shelter if need be. Today there is a tourist cabin on the sight, and up to 16 adults can take accommodation in the cave.

    Valle Municipality

    Valle
    town

    Valle is the first major town we’ll pass after crossing the mountains, making it a good place to stop.  We have now entered the traditional district of Setesdal; it’s a valley (dal) that up until recently was very isolated. The name Valle comes from the farm where the church was built. There used to be a stave church on the site called Hylestad stave church; sadly it was torn down in the 19th century to make way for a new church. Fortunately, the portal carvings were saved and are on display at the Historic Museum in Oslo. They illustrate the legend of Sigurd Favnesbane (Sigurd the Dragon Slayer), who is described in the Prose Edda and Beowulf saga. An important historic site is Rygnestadtunet, an old farm. It was built by Vonde-Åsmund (Asmund the Evil) in the mid-1500s and has been well-preserved. Today it is an open air museum, where the interiors reflect the period around 1919. Around the farm, grave findings indicate that the site was settled as early as 900AD.  As mentioned above, Valle was incredibly isolated. To get out via the north, travellers had to follow the river and take a path on a torturous steep cliff face. This was the only way out until the 1870s. Today, the European Highway 9 (E9) crosses through the valley and under the torturous mountain thanks to a nice tunnel.  Valle is known for its ancient silver smitheries. Today, the local high school specialises in silversmith and goldsmith training. Students from all over Norway and abroad come here to train to become jewellers.

    Sylvartun Museum

    Museum

    Sylvartun was the central silversmith and folk music arena in Setesdal valley. Exhibitions in the museum focus on musical instruments and the visualisation of music and dance traditions in the valley.
    Visitor information can be found here. 

    Store Bjørnevatn

    Lake

    We pass a large lake called Store Bjørnevatn. It’s about 15km (9 mi) north of Valle. The elevation is 801m (2,628 ft) above sea level. 

    Skafså

    Town

    Skafså is a small town known for its mountain farm Grimdalen. Today it’s a museum with farm buildings from the time of barter economy in the 17th century.
    Famous sculptor Anne Grimdalen is from here, and there’s a gallery with 300 of her sculptures here.
    Skafså Church is from 1839. There used to be a medieval crucifix standing outside the church; this is now at the Vest-Telemark Museum.

    Dalen

    This drive ends in Dalen, a small town located on the westernmost endpoint of the Telemark Canal. The Telemark Canal goes all the way to Skien on the coast of Norway – originally the canal was used for industry, but today it is more popular with tourists.
    When the canal was completed, it was referred to as the ‘eighth wonder’. Ferries were able to link Telemark with Oslo through the canal and then Oslofjord.
    Dalen Hotel is a famous historic hotel; it is one of the best preserved hotels from the 1800s. The hotel was built with the opening of the Telemark Canal in 1892. When it opened, it became popular with European royals.
    During the occupation, it was a resort for German officers. Most of the interior was stripped and sold for parts. The building fell into disrepair.
    After the war, the building was bought by singer and evangelist Aage Samuelsen. The hotel got a lot of attention and was restored in the 1980s. The hotel reopened in 1992. In 2000, the hotel won the Europa Nostra award for outstanding conservation.
    The architecture is a mix of Swiss chalet with national romanticism and Dragestil, a type of Norwegian architecture inspired by Viking and medieval art.
    A night at the hotel starts at 3,000 NOK, with rooms going up to 8,300 NOK.

    Continue the drive

    Telemark

    Take the scenic drive through Telemark from Dalen to Kongsberg.

    Previous Drive

    Jaeren Tourist Road

    Travel down the southern coast on this scenic, beachy road. 

    This drive is part of the multi-day series “Ultimate Norway”. You can read about the whole drive below. 

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • Eidsborg Stave Church & West Telemark Museum

    Eidsborg Stave Church & West Telemark Museum

    Eidsborg Stave Church is one of the 28 remaining stave churches in Norway. Built some time between 1250 and 1300, the church stands out for being one of the smallest stave churches. Additionally, it is an important pilgrimage church that gave way to its own cult in the old times! Eidsborg Stave Church is located on the hill above the village of Dalen, and today is part of the Vest Telemark Museum. A visit to the church also includes a look at the historic farm buildings from the region. Here’s my overview of the history and importance of Eidsborg Stave Church.

    In this article...

    The Fv38 Highway

    Eidsborg Stave Church is located along the Fv38, which is the main highway through Telemark. You can find my guide for the Fv38 by clicking the link below. 

    Historic Overview

    Eidsborg Stave Church in 1929

    The timber on Eidsborg Stave Church dates the church some time between 1250 and 1300, though the exact date is unknown. The first written mention of the church is from 1354, but it’s definitely older than that. There’s indication that another church stood on the site before then.

    There are many legends associated with this church. The church is said to have been built by the underjordiske. They are spirit beings who live underground or in nature as invisible creatures next to humans, often near farms.

    Like all the 28 stave churches in Norway, Eidsborg has underwent some changes over the years. The chorus was demolished in 1826 and the choir is from 1845-1850. Unlike some other stave churches, Eidsborg lacks foundation stones. Only the nave is original. Also, unlike other stave churches, Eidsborg is built with vertical logs instead of horizontal ones.
    The next renovation was in 1927, when architects made efforts to make the church look more like its 17th century appearance. The last restoration took place between 2005-2008.

    Eidsborg is one of the smallest stave churches in the country. The inside area is approximately 30m2.

    St. Nicholas

    Eidsborg Stave Church is dedicated to St. Nicholas. There is a statue of him inside the church that is from when the church was built. Sadly today the one inside the church is a copy, while the original is now in the Folke Museum (open-air museum) in Oslo.

    This statue developed something of a cult in the old times. We know St. Nicholas as the generous saint and origin of Santa Clause. Well, the original Nicholas was the bishop of Myra and served in the 300s. In the 5th century, the worship of saints began with him. Eventually, more than 2,000 churches in Europe were dedicated to him. One of them was Eidsborg. Eidsborg was likely dedicated to St. Nicholas as he was also the stonemasons patron saint. The village Eidgsborg had sharpening stone (whetstone) production.

    The wooden figure became a cult icon. Every Midsummer Eve (St. Hans Eve), locals gave the wooden figure gifts. After this, the locals would say prays to the church. They then carried out to a water source, where they washed it. Sweat from the wooden sculpture was supposed to have healing power and cleanse sins. This was very unique that a Catholic symbol would have pagan ritual traditions. It is also found at Røldal Stave Church. This tradition took place until 1750.

    The Antiquities Collection took the statue in 1845, and in 1965 Eidsborg got a copy. The ritual is now a historical play that takes place once a year.

    Pilgrims Road

    Eidsborg Stave Church is one of the very few churches in Norway on a pilgrims road. The other other pilgrims stave church is Røldal. Eidsborg is actually located on the pilgrims road to Røldal.

    Vest Telemark Museum

    Eidsborg Stave Church is located as part of the Vest Telemark Museum. If you visit Eidsborg, you must take some time to see the other buildings on the farm. I was able to see this buildings for free while the museum was closed. You can’t, of course, go inside without paying the admission fee. Still, it’s a nice area to walk around in. Here’s what you can see.

    Stålekleivsloftet

    This is the oldest non-church wooden building in the Norway and one of the oldest in the world. It’s unsure exactly when this building came to be, but there have bmanyrous studies into this. The construction technique is finndalslaft, and this is not found in Norway after the Black Death in 1349. Furthermore, there is a rune inscription in the attic dated to 1300. Lastly, in recent years the timber has been studied. It is likely that the timber was felled around the year 1167.

    This building is the first of its kind in Eidsborg. It was for a woman called Åse Stålekleiv, who is something of a local legend here. Basically, in 1200 she was an extremely wealthy landowner in Eidsborg. She needed a building to store her linen, so her sons built her this one!

    You can read all about her on the West Telemark Museum website.

    Practical Information

    Getting there

    Eidsborg is a short but steep and windy drive from Dalen, famous for the Telemark Canal. It’s clearly marked on maps, street signs, and Google Maps.

    Opening hours

    You can see some the buildings and the stave church all year round, but the museum has specific opening hours. Check the current opening times here.

    Admission

    You can see the outside of the church and some of the buildings for free, but to go inside you need to pay an admission. Check the current prices here.

    The Fv38 Highway

    Eidsborg Stave Church is located along the Fv38, which is the main highway through Telemark. You can find my guide for the Fv38 by clicking the link below.