world war ii

  • Ålesund, History

    The History of Ålesund

    The History of Ålesund

    Ålesund is today famous for its famous art nouveau architecture, but the city has a fascinating past all the way back to the time of the Vikings. The settlement at Ålesund didn’t emerge until the 18th century, but the area around Ålesund is mentioned in all the Norse sagas as a wealthy trading area. After Ålesund got market rights to compete against Bergen’s monopoly, people began settling here to take part in the rich cod fisheries. A fire in 1904 completely devastated the city, but Ålesund rose from the ashes as one of the most beautiful cities in Norway. Here is my overview of the history of Ålesund.

    In this article...

    Ålesund Travel Guide
    Finland Travel Guide

    The Viking Sagas

    Ålesund isn’t mentioned for the first time until the 18th century, but places around Ålesund are known from the Viking Age. For example, Steinvåg is mentioned in connection with St. Olav’s visit in 1029, and in 1184 King Sverre (who founded Trondheim) visited the area.

    However, there is one place in particular that is famous from the Viking Age.

    Borgund

    To the southeast of Ålesund city centre is a place known as Borgund (not to be confused with the famous stave church of the same name). Borgund is the oldest known dwelling in the region. This is where the history of Ålesund begins.

    Archaeological excavations have shown settlement from the 11th century onwards. The remains of up to four marble churches have been found, indicating the area was very wealthy and important. One of the medieval churches, Borgund Church, is still standing today. Excavations show there there 40-50 dwellings here.

    The reason for Borgund’s importance was the rich fisheries in the Borgund Fjord, in particular the cod fisheries. The town functioned as a gathering and distribution centre for products from the region that would then be sent on to Bergen and sold to the Hanseatic League. Exchange goods, such as ceramics from Germany and textiles from England, were brought back from Bergen.

    Borgund survived partly in thanks to a powerful family called the Giske Family.

    Visiting Borgund Today: Borgund is located just outside of Ålesund. You can visit the church or one of two museums on the side; The Medieval Museum (https://www.vitimusea.no/musea/middelaldermuseet) or the Sunnmøre Museum (https://www.vitimusea.no/musea/sunnmoere-museum)

    You can read about the excavation work on the University of Bergen website (including pictures): https://www.uib.no/en/rg/borgund-kaupang/134757/excavating-borgund

    Giske

    The Giske Family was a Norwegian aristocratic family from the Viking Age through to the 17th century. They lived on an island called Giske, which is today just north of the city of Ålesund and accessible by road tunnel.

    The family is mentioned in the Norse Sagas and were connected to both St. Olav and the King Harald Hardråde through marriage. One of the Giske’s fell at the famous Battle of Stamford Bridge in 1066, which is regarded as the end of the VIking Age.

    Through marriage and purchasing, the Giske family became one of the wealthiest families in Norway. The last Giske died in 1605 (a widow with no children), and at the time the estate owned 192 properties.

    It is possible to visit the island of Giske today. Their church, Giske Church, still stands today. Burial mounds are also located on the island and can be visited.

    Ålesund's Early Years

    Due to Bergen’s monopoly on trade in Norway, Borgund eventually declined in importance. However, Bergen’s monopoly did not last forever; starting in the 1700s there was increased demand to open more market towns along the Norwegian coast. The site of present-day Ålesund was chosen was one of these new market towns. There were people living here at the time; Ålesund was first mentioned in 1766, when a Norwegian priest called Hans Strom mentioned Aalesund (the old spelling of the town name).

    Ålesund received trading rights in 1793. However, this did not immediately result in success; it took another 60 years before major growth started. Full market town rights were granted in 1848, and after that the city began to see growth.

    Ålesund’s town centre was built around the narrow Ålesundet sound between the islands. The first settlers came from Bergen; living and trading here for part of the year.

    Rapid Growth & Wealth

    The modern founders of the town are considered to be the member of Parliament, Peter Tonning, and the fish exporter Carl Rønneberg. They ensured that Ålesund was given rights to trade and export without going through Bergen. Because of this, Ålesunds growth coincides with Bergen’s decline.

    Thanks to the natural harbour, Ålesund grew very quickly. The nearby rich fisheries and the harbour brought people from all over the west. Eventually fish processing factories were established, and the expanding fishing fleet grew here as well. Eventually steamships began docking at Ålesund and larger factories were built.

    In 1872, author Magdalene Thoresen described the city as follows:

    It is a fresh sight to see this small coastal town with its newly built houses, scattered over the bare mounds that often look like reefs, and you get the impression that it was built in a hurry, built up by chance and the mood which comes with a fast, dangerous profession. Here, no even, calm deliberation goes through anything; even the large, dizzying warehouses and individual magnificent buildings speak only of the rapid rise of profit and the boldness of large speculations. Of course, there are also buildings which clearly show that here prosperity resides in safe enclosure, here no more daring. But most of it gives the impression of rapid rise

    Ålesund continued to experience wealth and rapid growth until the fire of 1904 struck.

    1904 Fire

    Because of the rapid growth of the city, the towns buildings were somewhat randomly built timber buildings. This was a huge reason why the city was so quickly devastated by fire.

    On the 23rd of January 1904, a fire started in the Aalesund Preserving Company’s factory at around the same time a storm from the southwest was blowing through. Overnight, the fire destroyed over 800 buildings and 10,000 of Ålesund’s 12,000 people were left homeless.

    Only one person died; an elderly woman who had safely evacuated her home but decided to go back to retrieve her purse. Ironically, she lived closest to the fire station.

    One other man refused to leave his home so his friends and family carried out all his furniture and belongings to save them from the fire. After the fire, the house survived but all the furniture was destroyed.

    Financial Help

    The news of the destruction of Ålesund spread all throughout Europe, and money began pouring in to help rebuild the city. One of the biggest contributors was Kaiser Wilhelm II, who had spent many vacations in the area. He sent five support ships full of food, medicine, construction materials, blankets, and other forms of aid to the town. The main street in Ålesund is named after him because of this.

    Architectural Style

    After the fire, the city decided to employ fresh Norwegian architects to design and rebuild the town. The approximately 50 architects selected to design the town had just studied abroad and become influenced by the Jugendstil, or Art Nouveau, style, and decided to rebuild the town in a very uniform style.

    Art Nouveau in Norway takes a lot of influence from medieval buildings such as stave churches but also motifs from the Viking Age and Norse Sagas. Additionally, lots of nature elements are used on the buildings.

    Learn more: In Ålesund you’ll find the Jugendstilsenteret, a museum all about Ålesund’s art nouveau architecture. The museum also covers how the city was devastated by fire but quickly rebuilt itself.

    Rebuilding

    Ålesund was rebuilt very quickly. By 1906, a major part of the town had been rebuilt with well-planned streets and strict building specifications. Timber was forbidden in the town centre but still exists around the town.

    The big reason for the rapid rebuilding was that there were so many tradesmen without work at the time, so it was easy to hire people.

    World War II

    After the Nazi invasion of Norway on the 9th of April 1940, Ålesund was not immediately occupied. It was free territory during the initial phase of fighting in Norway. The government used the Ålesund coastal radio station to communicate with the United Kingdom, and because of this Ålesund was bombed in late April 1940.

    After the Nazis occupied Ålesund, the mountain Aksla was used for military fortifications.

    Ålesund became known as ‘Little London’ by the Gestapo because of the resistance work that took place here. The large transport group known as the Shetland Bus used Ålesund as one of their major bases for transporting goods between Shetland and Norway. Several members of the group were caught and executed for their participation in the group.

    Ålesund Today

    Today Ålesund is one of the main centres in Western Norway and is also home to Norway’s largest and most modern ocean-going fishing fleets. There are also shipyards, mechanical workshops and other industries here.

    You can read about Ålesund, as well as what to do when visiting, on my Ålesund travel guide page.

    Ålesund Travel Guide
    Finland Travel Guide
  • Narvik, Northern Norway, Road-trips, World War II

    Drive it Yourself: E6 from Nordkjosbotn to Narvik

    Drive it Yourself: E6 from Nordkjosbotn to Narvik

    Welcome to the next part of our amazing drive from Trondheim to the Lofoten Islands! This drive was actually the turning point for us as we made our way back south to Trondheim. It was a little sad turning around; I just wanted to keep on going! Anyway, today we begin the first of three travel days on the E6 south to Trondheim.

    We actually began the drive in Finnsnes, a town across from the beautiful island of Senja. In the morning we ventured out to the Sami souvenir shop mentioned below before turning around and heading south on the E6.

    The drive close to Narvik is so beautiful! What I love is the amount of effort put into having rest areas with information about the Battle of Narvik, too. 

    Enjoy the drive!

    In this article...

    Downloadable Version of This Guide

    We offer downloadable versions of our self-guided drives on our online store. 

    View at the Store

    Online Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the neighbourhood
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Information about facilities along the way

    Downloadable Guide

    • Information about points of interest
    • Images of each point of interest
    • Historic overview of the region & towns
    • Directions between points
    • Historic photos
    • Facilities including supermarkets, toilets, petrol, hotels, cafes, restaurants with addresses.

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

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    The drive: E6 between Nordkjosbotn & Narvik

    Nordkjosbotn

    Village

    Nordkjosbotn (Sami name: Gárgán) is a small village located at the junction of two major highways – the E6 and the E8. The E8 leads towards Tromsø, while the E6 runs through the entire length of Norway. It is one of the major crossroads in Norway. In the village you’ll find supermarkets, petrol stations, and a small church.

    Balsfjord Municipality

    Balsfjord Municipality (Sami name: Báhccavuotna) is located close to Tromsø Municipality. It has a population of around 5,500 people and has a very low population density. It is surrounded by two major fjords – Malangen and Balsfjorden. The farmland here is very rich.

    The original inhabitants were the Sami people, but in the 1800s new settlers came from Finland. Eventually people moved up from southern Norway and settled in the area. Today there are very few traces of Sami culture. Petroglyphs have been found in the area that are 2,500 to 4,000 years old.

    The coat-of-arms represents a yellow plough on a red background, symbolising the fact that agriculture is the main source of income for municipality. The plough also symbolises that the municipality is at the northernmost border on which grain can be grown in Norway. Agriculture is mostly based on milk and meat production, and Balsfjord has the highest number of cattle, sheep and goats in Troms county.

    Målselv Municipality

    Målselv (Sami name: Málatvuomi suohkan) is a municipality in Troms County. The area was settled by farmers from southern Norway from 1788 onwards. They came here because of the large, forested areas as well as the fertile land. The valley and the municipality take its name from the river Målselva, which is well known for its salmon. The river also forms the Målselv waterfall, which has been selected as Norway’s national waterfall. One of the rarest orchids in Europe, Lysiella oligantha, is found in Målselva.

    Sami Shop Heia

    Shop

    One of my favourite places in the area is this Sami shop. Here you can buy authentic Sami handicrafts, but I love their cafe with some of the best coffee I’ve ever had – boiled over an open fire and very, very strong. 

    Øvre Divdal National Park

    National Park

    The Øvre Divdal National Park (Sami name: Dieváidvuovddi) is a 750km2 (290 sq mi) national park that opened in 1971. The intention behind establishing the park was to protect the inland valley and mountain area. The area is very popular with hiking today. Pine forests grow in the lower areas, while birch grows on the mountains. All the main predators are represented in the park, including the brown bear, wolf, wolverine and lynx. The wolverine are numerous in the area and it is also common to see reindeer (owned by Sami) and moose. The Arctic fox used to live in the area.

    The valley is the second driest in Norway, with an annual precipitation of 282mm (11.1 inches). There is no permafrost in the lower elevations of the park.

    Many Sami cultural monuments remain in the park, from pre-Christian sacrificial sites to reindeer fences. Norwegian settlement didn’t come to the area until the 18th and 19th centuries. The name Divdalen comes from the Sami word dievva, meaning ‘round and dry pile’.

    If you are considering spending some time here, I recommend spending at least one night here. Cabins are available for rent throughout the area.

    Click here to visit their official website. 

    Bardufoss

    Town

    Bardufoss (Sami name: Beardogorži) is the commercial centre for the Målselv municipality. It is located in the Målselvdalen valley near the confluence of the Barduelva and Målselva Rivers. The population is 2,600.

    Bardufoss is known in Norway for its association with the military. The Bardufoss Airport is both a civilian and military airport suitable for landing bomber aircraft, fighter jets and other heavy planes.

    Many people who live in Bardufoss are associated with the Armed Forces. The two military camps Rusta and Heggelia, with the common name Bardufoss Camp, constitute the military centre of gravity in Troms together with Maukstadmoen camp in Øverbygd and Setermoen camp in Bardu. Between Rusta and Heggelia camps is Istindportalen, which is a welfare building for the Armed Forces. It houses the welfare service and equipment for the soldiers as well as a cinema, sports hall, and kiosk for civilians.

    A street in Bardufoss is called General Fleischer’s Veg, in honour of Carl Gustav Fleischer. Carl Gustav Fleischer was a Norwegian general and the first land commander to win a victory against the Germans in World War II.

    The main forest here is made up of Downy birch, Scot’s pine, aspen and grey alder. However, Norway spruce has been planted in the plantations since the middle part of the 20th century for economic reasons (timber).

    The climate in Bardufoss is more continental, and it has reliable snow cover in the winter while the summers are warmer than Tromsø in the summer.

    Bardufoss has an upper secondary school with practical subjects including aeronautical subjects, construction subjects and electrical subjects. The Armed Forces College is located here with courses at the college and university levels.

    Battle of Narvik 1940 Memorial & General Carl Flesicher

    Located just off the E6 in Bardufoss is a memorial about the importance of the Bardufoss Airport in the Narvik Campaign in 1940. 

    This monument at Bardufoss is one of the six memorials erected by the Norwegian Army commemorating the first defeat for Nazi Germany during World War II.

    Bardufoss Airport was important during the Campaign of Narvik and was an important aim of the German advance northwards.

    The street is named in memory of Carl Fleischer, a General in the Norwegian Army at the outbreak of World War II. He was crucial to the early successes of the military in the Battle of Narvik and is credited with coordinating the French, Polish, British and Norwegian forces in recapturing Narvik on the 28th of May. Narvik was the first major allied infantry victory in the Second World War. Unfortunately, the Allies left Narvik due to the German Invasion of France on the 10th of May 1940 and without the support the Norwegians couldn’t hold Narvik. The Germans reoccupied Narvik on the 9th of June. General Fleischer followed King Haakon VII and the government to the United Kingdom.

    During his exile, he built up a Norwegian infantry brigade in Scotland, but he soon got at odds with the Norwegian political leadership due to his stubbornness. He became controversial in factions of the cabinet due to his support of British commando raids on the Norwegian coast. Likely because of his attitudes, he was bypassed when the government-in-exile recreated the post of commander in chief of the Norwegian Armed Forces. Instead, Fleischer was told he would go to Canada and be the commander there. Apart from the Royal Norwegian Air Forces training base near Toronto, which already had a leader, there were no Norwegian forces in Canada. Fleischer took this as an insult and humiliation, and he committed suicide on the 19th of December 1942.

    Still disputed today, it is thought one of the reasons for sending him to Canada was that he favoured coastal raids against Norway to hamper German use of the occupied nation. He also wanted to build substantial army forces abroad and employ them in operations against the German occupying forces, something that was in direct conflict with the more passive strategy favoured by the government in exile. When General Fleischer’s ashes were brought back to Norway after the war, the Labour government denied him a state funeral. When a monument was raised in Harstad, which was attended by the King, the same lack of respect was shown by the Labour Party.

    Bardu Municipality

    Bardu (Northern Sami: Bearddu suohkan) is a small municipality in Troms Country with a population of around 4,000. The Norwegian name of the municipality has been Norwegianised from the Sami name, which means “long and steep mountainside”. The coat-of-arms represent a black wolverine on a gold background, symbolising the rich wildlife in the area.

    Norway’s largest military garrison is located at Setermoen, the administrative centre for Bardu. The military is the municipality’s largest employer, and more than 1,000 young soldiers perform their duty service here every year.

    The world’s most northern zoo, Polar Park, is in the southern part of the municipality.

    Setermoen

    Village

    Setermoen is the main town in Bardu municipality and has a population of around 2,400. Military education was established here in 1898 because of its strategic location in a valley surrounded by mountains. Today it is one of the oldest military camps in Norway, and in many ways the Norwegian Armed Forces has shaped Setermoen and the community through its presence. About 1,000 soldiers and 500 soldiers are stationed here, making it the largest garrison in Norway.

    Click here to visit the Norwegian Army’s website about Setermoen (it has some great pictures!)

    Bardu Bygdetun

    Open-air museum

    Bardu Bygdetun is an open-air museum that contains buildings mostly from the 1860s, arranged to show a historic farm and village. The main building is a farmhouse from 1868, but another interesting building is the school room that was built in the early 20th century to accommodate the 8-10 school students in the district.

    The museum is only open in August, where you’ll find staff dressed up, coffee and food, and other events.

    Click here to visit their website (in Norwegian).

    Polar Park

    Animal Park

    Polar Park is an animal park that specialises in Nordic fauna, including Norway’s four largest predators: brown bear, lynx, wolf, and wolverine. Other animals include moose, muskox, red deer, and reindeer.

    The park is open every day and they also have accommodation options close by.

    Click here to visit their website (in English). 

    Lavangen Municipality

    Lavangen (Sami name: Loabák) is a tiny municipality in the southern part of Troms County; the population is only 1,000! The name comes from the fjord nearby and is from the Old Norse words meaning “leaf fjord”. The coat-of-arms represents gold-coloured birch leaves on a red background, representing how the area was settled by Norwegians, Sami and Kvens. Over 20% of the population have a Sami background; they are mostly descendants of Swedish reindeer herding Sami.

    General Fleischer Memorial & Lapphaugen

    Memorial

    Shortly after driving through the village of Fossbakken is a monument about the Battle of Narvik in 1940. It includes a memorial to General Carl Fleischer as well as some information about the fighting that took place in the area.

    This is the site where the German troops advancing north were stopped by Norwegian forces. The Germans never again resumed the offensive in Narvik. The Germans were held back by a blizzard, which made for zero visibility and they had to stop here at Lapphaugen.

    Gratangen Municipality

    Gratangen (Sami name: Rivttága suohkan) is a small municipality in the southern part of Troms County. The population in the municipality is only around 1,000, with the main village being Årstein.

    Gratangen was the site of the Battle of Gratangen, one of the first battles between the Germans and the Norwegians during the Narvik Campaign in 1940. The first attack was a huge failure as the German counter-attacked unprepared Norwegians, blunting the first Norwegian advance. This battle was, for Norwegians, their first serious lesson in the art of war. After this battle, the bitterness caused by the German ruthlessness – particularly the use of civilians as human shields – ensured that the Norwegian’s wouldn’t hesitate to fire on the enemy again.

    Øse

    Memorial

    This memorial is located at a site called Øse, which was the site where fighting took place between the 1st and 14th of May 1940. The site is a strategically important mountain pass that the Germans were using. This is where the Norwegians fought alongside the French for the first time in the war. The goal was to clear the valley and mountain of German positions. The German troops put up a strong defence, and the area was not recaptured until the 7th of May. During the attack, the soldiers witnessed German air raids on the red-cross-labelled hospital ship, Dronning Maud, in the nearby fjord, and 19 people were killed when the ship sunk.

    Nordland County

    We cross into Nordland county. 

    Narvik Municipality

    We have now crossed into Narvik municipality. We’ll talk more specifically about the town later. The municipality is fairly large and is located in the northernmost part of Nordland county. The population is around 22,000, and it has grown by 18% over the last 10 years. The coat-of-arms represents the mountain Stetind, a well-known mountain peak in the area.

    Most of the municipality is around the Ofotfjorden and the mountain peaks here reach as high as 1,700 metres (5,600ft). Forests cover the lower parts of the mountains, but near the summits snow can stay for most of the year. Narvik is the best-known area in northern Norway for alpine skiing; some of the slopes start on top of the mountains and end near the town centre. Wreck diving attracts divers to the area as there are a lot of wrecks in the harbour.

    The economy is still largely based around iron ore, but there are some high-tech businesses in Narvik including Natach and the largest research institute in Northern Norway, Norut Narvik. Narvik was one of the first areas in the world to be affected by the financial cricis of 2007-2008 as it had invested in Citigroup securities. Narvik lost the equivalent of $18 million USD in August 2007 and the Norwegian government refused to bail them out, so Narvik was forced to implement severe budget cuts.

    Bjerkvik

    Village

    Bjerkvik is a small village with a population of 1,159. It has the European Highway 6 and the European Highway 10 running through it, making it a major junction between Harstad, Narvik and Tromsø.

    During World War II, Bjerkvik was almost destroyed by the bombardment of gunfire from allied warships that caused significant civilian casualties. A landing was conducted in the area by Franco-British forces, pushing the German forces several miles away.

    During a NATO exercise in 1986, sixteen Norwegian soldiers died in an avalanche just east of the town. Later, in 2006, two grenadiers from the Telemark battalion died of a tank accident during another NATO exercise. The tank they operated went through the ice on a swamp, and only two of the four crew managed to get out alive. The Commission of Inquiry concluded that it was human failure on the part of the crew who operated the tank. Also, they found that the crew were using old maps and that the Armed Forces had been warned against moving off the road due to little snowfall and bad ice.

    Ofotfjord

    Fjord

    The Ofotfjord is an inlet of the Norwegian Sea and a fjord that Narvik is built around. At 78km (48 mi), the Ofotfjord is Norway’s 12th longest fjord. It has depths of up to 553m (1814ft), and the mountains around the fjord reach peaks of 1500m (4900ft).

    In the fjord are huge quantities of herring staying in the fjord in the winter. The fish attract a lot of whales, notably orca. Lobsters have been occasionally observed in the fjord, making them the northernmost lobsters in the world. Cod and coalfish is the most common fish species throughout the year, while mackerel is common between July and September. White-tailed eagles and Eurasian otters are common in and around the fjord.

    The Ofotfjord was the scene of several naval battles during the Battles of Narvik in World War II. The fjord today is very popular among divers, though some of the shipwrecks are declared war graves and thus you cannot dive to them. The German destroyer Georg Thiele is still visible from the railway as it sits in the Ofotfjord. See pictures here. 

    Hålogaland Bridge

    Bridge

    This bridge crosses the Rombaksfjorden and is the second-longest bridge span in Norway. It was built to shorten the drive on the E6 between Narvik and Bjkerkvik. Financing for the bridge came from a mix of state grants and toll roads. At the time of its construction, it was the longest suspension bridge within the Arctic Circle and was featured on the Science Channel show Building Giants. The bridge officially opened on 9 December 2018.

    Narvik

    We have now arrived in Narvik! A detailed overview of Narvik can be found on the travel guide section of The Hidden North. 

    Narvik Travel Guide

    Continue the drive

    The E6 between Narvik and Mo i Rana

    Continue on the E6 south to Mo i Rana. On this part of the drive, you cross the Arctic Circle!

    Narvik to Mo i Rana

    Previous Drive

    Senja Tourist Road

    See the previous day’s drive on the Senja Tourist Road. 

    Senja Tourist Road

    This drive is part of the multi-day series “From Trondheim to the Lofoten Islands & Back Again”, where we travel from Trondheim to Lofoten via the Coastal Road, and then take the E6 back south to Trondheim. You can view the entire drive below. 

    From Trondheim to the Lofoten Islands

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • History, Kirkenes, World War II

    The History of Kirkenes

    I love Kirkenes. Honestly, it’s one of those places I didn’t think much of until I got there. What makes it so special is the blend of so many cultures, religions and customs that come together to make one special town. Walking through the town, you’ll hear Norwegian, Finnish, Russian and Sami. This didn’t happen overnight; Kirkenes’ multiculturalism is from hundreds of years of history. I’ve put together my overview of the history of Kirkenes, focusing on the important events that made the town what it is today.

    Kirkenes Travel Guide

    The Sami Settlement Between Two Countries

    The history of Kirkenes begins with its Sami settlement. The Skolt Sami, or Eastern Sami, have been using the land around Kirkenes for hundreds of years. They would come here with their reindeer flocks to graze along the Varangerfjord. In the winter, they would go to Northern Finland.

    Kirkenes and surroundings was a shared Norwegian-Russian district with no strict borders. The present-day border is from 1826, and it took only a few years before the first settlers came to the area. 

    Border Establishment

    When the borders came into place, the region was heavily affected. For example, Neiden, 45km west of Kirkenes, was cut in half. The area is the centre of the Skolt Sami culture in Norway, which is the eastern Orthodox Sami. Many of the residents lived part of the year in Russia, and the borders led them to settle on the Kola Peninsula in present-day Russia.

    In Neiden you can still find St. George’s Chapel, a Russian Orthodox chapel built in 1565. In 1902, the Norwegian government funded the Neiden Chapel. The church resembles a stave church to assert the state’s sovereignty in Eastern Finnmark. If you are driving towards Inari in Lapland from Kirkenes, you will pass the church. Today there is a Skolt Sami Museum in Neiden, close to St. George’s Chapel.

    Kirkenes: The Church on a Headland

    In the mid-19th century, the settlement around Kirkenes decided to build a church near the fjord. Originally, the settlement had the strange name ‘Piselvnes’ (Pis River Headland). With the church, the settlement became Kirkenes (Church Headland).

    Discovery of Iron Ore

    Kirkenes grew thanks to the discovery of iron ore 10km south of the settlement. Around that time, very few people lived in Kirkenes. The mining company SydVaranger A/S was founded and the town grew rapidly. In the early 20th century, the population grew to 8,000. Most people came from far away. Besides Norwegian and Sami languages, Russian, Swedish, English and German were common. During World War I, iron ore from Kirkenes was in high demand. At most, 1,500 people worked in the mines. In 1908, the Hurtigruten made Kirkenes its turning point.

    World War II

    With its proximity to the Soviet Union, Kirkenes was valuable throughout World War II. When the Winter War broke out in Finland, Kirkenes was a safe haven. More than 1,300 refugees from Finland and the Soviet Union crossed.

    Less than a year later, in July 140, German forces invaded Kirkenes. Kirkenes became one of the most important bases in Norway for the Germans.

    The Murmansk Front

    Up to 10,000 German soldiers were present in Kirkenes during the war. The main goal of the Germans was to block British shipments into Murmansk. Additionally, Kirkenes was important during the German invasion of the Soviet Union. When Operation Barbarossa began in 1941, Allied convoys supplied Murmansk with food and materials. It was then sent to Moscow to prevent the fall of the capital. The Germans used Kirkenes to target and attack these convoys.

    Kirkenes became a target for bombing and air raids by both the Allies and the Soviets. Air-raid warnings sounded over 1,000 times and there were over 300 bombing raids. After Malta, Kirkenes was the place in Europe subject to the most intensive bombing.

    The Partisans

    The area around Kirkenes was also important for the partisans. Norwegians signed up to train in espionage in the Soviet Union. After returning to Norway, they set up observation posts along the Finnmark coast. From there, they reported on German shipping and military activity. Their reports were for the Soviet Union.

    They lived in simple conditions and were completely isolated. During the Cold War, many of them ended up with accusations of having Communist sympathies. A memorial for 11 freedom fighters stands near Kirkenes. They helped partisans collect information about the Occupation. They were caught and sent to a POW camp in summer 1943. A couple of months later, they were killed close to the memorial spot.

    The fighting between Kirkenes and Murmansk cost the lives of tens of thousands of soldiers. The terrain is difficult, and the weather made it worse. It was difficult to establish supply chains for the soldiers. Most soldiers either died in action or they froze to death in temperatures as low as -40C/F.

    Over 80 prisons and POW camps were located in the area around Kirkenes, and at one point more than 7,000 Soviet prisoners of war were held in these camps.

    Liberation of Kirkenes & Rebuilding

    In October 1944, Finland and the Soviet Union agreed to a ceasefire. The Germans intensified their plans to retreat from Finnmark. As the Soviets began to advance on Kirkenes, the Germans began their retreat. During the retreat, the Germans used their scorched earth tactic. Anything they passed, they set on fire. Anything that was remaining in Kirkenes after all the bombing raids burned down.

    Most of the population fled to the mines to hide underground. Up to 3,000 people lived in the mines – 11 babies were born there! The movie Under a Stone Sky from 1997 is about this event.

    Only 13 houses were standing after the war. The church that gave the name ‘Kirkenes’ did not survive.

    On the 25th of October 1944, the Soviets entered Kirkenes. The locals gave them a heroes welcome. Kirkenes was the first town in Norway liberated by the Red Army.

    Learn about the history between Kirkenes and Russia by visiting the Grenseland Museum.

    Video about the liberation: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bM5cJkXUOx4

    After the liberation, the locals had to live in the ruins and cellars of bombed houses. It took some time for rebuilding to begin. The general shortage of timber meant that materials had to be imported. Many children were sent to Sweden to ‘fatten up’ with Swedish families for a couple years.

    Kirkenes was rebuilt thanks to the Marshall Plan from the United States. Moreover, with the rebuilding, Kirkenes became the first town in Northern Norway to get sealed streets.

    Post-War Developments

    During the Cold War, Kirkenes was just one of two borders between NATO and the Soviet Union (the other was in Turkey) and for much of the 1990s it was the only border between Russia and NATO.

    The mines in Kirkenes re-opened in 1952 and were incredibly important for the post-war building that was taking place all around Europe. However, the iron market fell in the 1990s and Sydvaranger mining completely shut down in 1996. The loss of their traditionally largest industry led to major changes in Kirkenes.

    In the 1990s, Kirkenes underwent changes and became an important city for the Barents region. The Kirkenes Declaration was signed in 1993, and the Barents Euro-Arctic Region was formalised as a collaboration between Finland, Sweden, Norway and Northwest Russia. The core idea was ‘people to people collaboration’ across the borders, especially with Russia after the Cold War ended.

    Kirkenes was finally granted town status in 1998.

    Kirkenes Travel Guide
  • Bergen, History, World War II

    The Most Famous Bergen World War II Sites

    The Most Famous Bergen World War II Sites

    On the morning of the 9th of April 1940, Norway awoke to the news that Nazi Germany had invaded. The country remained occupied until the war ended on 8 May 1945. Bergen became one of the most important places for German forces on the west coast. They built forts, bunkers, and took over public buildings. I’ve put together a list of the most important Bergen World War II sites.

    The occupation was strategic for the Germans. Norway’s proximity to the United Kingdom was important. Furthermore, the iron ore exports from Narvik meant Germany could produce war materials. The entire coast of Norway became of use for the Germans. It’s easy to see how Norway has a rich war history.

    In this article...

    Bergen Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide

    Bergen & World War II: the Occupation

    Along with other major cities in Norway, Bergen was occupied on the first day of the German invasion. German warships passed Denmark on the night of the 8th. When the Norwegian fortifications were notified, they began preparations. Forts line the coast around Bergen, but they stood no chance against German ships. The ships came with planes and approximately 1,900 men. The Bergen forts managed to damage one ship, the Koningsberg, but the rest entered the city undamaged.

    The locals awoke on the 9th to a German flag flying at the Bergen Fortress. Heavily armed German guards stood outside public buildings. The occupation had been a success.

    Sites around Bergen

    The Bergen Fortress

    The Bergen Fortress was the main headquarters of the German soldiers during the war. Most of the buildings within the fortress served a purpose. The only building they didn’t use was Håkon’s Hall. Additionally, they constructed some of their own.

    If you are planning to walk around the fortress, I recommend this excellent guide. It’s available printed at Håkon’s Hall & the Rosenkrantz Tower.

    The German Bunker

    The German bunker stands next to Håkon’s Hall. It is one of the few remains of German buildings at the fortress. In 1944, there was a large explosion of a freight ship on the harbour. The telephone exchange was destroyed by the explosion. Using 200 Soviet prisoners of war, a new bunker was built to serve as a communications bunker. The concrete can withstand attacks. After the war, Germany gave Norway some funds to tear it down. However, the bunker remains, though covered in green ivy, as a reminder of the war. Today it’s used by the Norwegian Army.

    The Explosion of Voodbode

    On the 14th of April 1944, a German freight ship docked outside the fortress exploded. The ship, Voorbode, was travelling from Oslo to Kirkenes but stopped in Bergen for repairs. Normally, a ship like this would not be allowed to stop in a major port. It was carrying 124 tonnes of explosives. Due to a lack of proper controls, the ship docked in Bergen.

    The explosion occurred early in the morning. A water column several-hundred metres high rose. Following it was sand, mud, stones, iron plates, timber and steel from the ship. The pressure wave swept the harbour, crushing everything in its path. Houses fell apart, brick buildings suffered damage, and windows 2km away smashed. Bergen was declared a disaster area. 4,536 buildings were either damaged or destroyed. 160 people died, 5,000 were injured, and 5,000 became homeless. 4,260 children were forced to evacuate to prevent illness from spreading.

    Bergenhus Festningsmuseum

    To learn more about the resistance movement during World War II, and everything about the Norwegian army, visit the Bergenhus Festningsmuseum. It is on the edge of Bergenhus near St. Mary’s Church. The exhibition about the resistance movement in Bergen 1940-1945 shows both civilian and military resistance. It demonstrates how the civilians organised against the Nazi Party Nasjonal Samling’s attempts to Nazify Norway.

    It also focuses on the military resistance developed from scattered, isolated groups to a large organisation with ties to London. The torture and execution of resistance members was common. Or they were sent to concentration camps in Europe. Despite this, the resistance movement grew stronger until the liberation. The museum has photos, weapons, espionage equipment, sabotage material, film footage, and interviews. Additional exhibitions are:

    • Women’s contribution to the Norwegian Armed Forces
    • Newspapers in Bergen during the war
    • The underground press 1940-1945
    • Norwegian forces abroad
    • Norwegian Independent Brigade Group
    • History of the fortress
    • Enigma

    The best part is – the museum is free!

    Sverresborg

    Located on a hill behind the Bergen fortress, Sverresborg is a historic fortress. However, the fortress is also interesting when it comes to the Second World War. During WWII, the German occupants established two anti-aircraft batteries in the fortress. After the war, Sverresborg became as an execution site in connection with treason. Seven Germans and one Norwegian war criminal were executed there in 1946. Today, there is no evidence of this, but it’s still worth visiting as it provides excellent views of Bergen.

    Sites around Bryggen

    Bergen’s UNESCO site Bryggen is the epicentre of local history. The wharf is a trading centre from the 11th century onwards. For a few hundred years it was the home of the German merchants, the Hanseatic League. The locals considered Bryggen German until the end of the 19th century.

    After World War II in Bergen, the locals wanted to remove any trace of the city’s German heritage. They planned to get rid of Bryggen. Luckily, a fire led to archaeological excavations which led to the discovery of Bryggen’s rich heritage. Now the wharf is under conservation. We know that Bryggen suffered damage from the explosion, but it was also home to an important resistance group.

    Theta Museum

    The Theta Museum is an important World War II site in Bergen. It the secret base of a well-known resistance group called the Theta Group. Comprised of a group of young students (aged 19-22) form Bergen, the group had some radio equipment and established contact with London. The Theta group acquired information and then passed it to London. Therefore, they assisted the British Army with the Germans in Norway. They told the British about the movements of the battleship Tirpitz. This led to the British sinking the ship near Tromsø.

    They also obtained inside information about the U-boat pens in Laksevåg (see below). The group ended when the Germans discovered their location. Some group members were sent to concentration camps and died. Meanwhile, some fled to Sweden, and some to the United Kingdom. When they returned after the war, they set up their old room to look as it had during the war, and today that room is a museum.

    When visiting the museum, you’ll be able to see their equipment, photographs, newspapers, maps, a gun, and more. It’s a little hard to get into the museum. It’s open from May-September on Tuesdays, Saturdays and Sundays from 2pm-4pm. Note that it’s very small; it’s considered to be the smallest museum in Norway! It’s located in the alley Enhjørningsgården.

    Shetland Memorial

    The Shetland Group (or Shetland Bus) is a group that made a permanent link between Shetland and Norway throughout the Second World War. Operated by small fishing boats and later submarine chasers, it grew to be part of the resistance. The purpose of the group was to transfer agents in and out of Norway. They also provided them with weapons, radios, and other supplies. They would bring out the Norwegians who feared arrest by the Germans.

    Just behind the fish market is a statue of Leif Larsen, one of the famous men of the Shetland group. He made 52 trips to Norway and became a highly decorated Allied naval officer in the Second World War.

    In the mountains

    Rundemanen

    Some old German constructions can be found at the top of Rundemanen and nearby Blåmanen. Sadly I can’t find much information on their history.

    Fløyen WWII Memorial

    If you take a trip to the top of Mt. Fløyen, you’ll notice a World War II memorial just in front of the restaurant. It is in memory of the young people who were members of sports clubs who fell for Norway between 1940 and 1945. You can read about the history of why they have been recognised here: http://www.waymarking.com/waymarks/WMPBBT_World_War_II_Memorial_Bergen_Norway

    Sandviksbatteriet

    A short walk from the city centre, the Sandviken battery was built between 1895 and 1902 to protect Bergen from possible attacks from the Swedes. The battery formed the ‘inner fortification’ to protect Bergen from attacks from the sea. It was not manned when the Germans arrived in April 1940 and did not take part in the defence of Bergen as the Germans invaded. It was then used by the Germans throughout the war.

    Voorbode Anchor

    If you hike up Sandviksfjellet, you’ll come across the anchor from the Voorbode, the German freight ship that exploded on the harbour.

    Surrounding area

    U-boat pen Bruno

    When the Germans occupied Norway, they were able to move their u-boats closer to the front and the United Kingdom. One of the submarine pens they built is Bruno, which is located in the suburb of Laksevåg. It has 3 dry boat pens, 3 wet ones, and one that is used for storage. After the Allied landings in France in June 1944, there was a massive expansion of the U-boat base in Bergen.

    This led to a massive English air raid on October 1944, involving 150 aircraft. The attack ended in disaster when 193 Norwegians, among them 61 children at a nearby school, were killed. There was another attack on Bruno later that month, but the 244 aircraft could not find the target because of heavy clouds. Instead, parts of Bergen’s city centre were bombed. Today the bunker is used by the Norwegian navy for submarine pens. It’s a little hard to see from the city, but if you take any ferry or head out to the tip of Nordnes of Sandviken, you’ll be able to see it.

    Olsvik bunker

    Little historical information exists on this bunker, but a sign outside it states that it was used by the Germans during WWII. The bunker is located in the suburb of Olsvik. To get there, take bus 40 towards Olsvik and get off at the stop ‘Olsvikåsen’. From there, it takes 15-20 minutes to talk to the top.

    Fjell Fortress

    Fjell fortress was the largest German fortress in Norway during the Second World War. Construction began in 1942, and it was completed around July 1943. The fort was designed as being a significant link in the coastal defence of Norway, and it was to stop seaward approach to Bergen.

    To mount the main gun turret, it was necessary to dig 17 metres vertically into the mountain, and this was considered a time-consuming task. The main entrance and gun emplacement were constructed as an open ditch, and later covered with concrete, instead of blasting a tunnel into and down in the solid rock. As a result, water entering the tunnel system has been a problem ever since the tunnel was constructed. The work was carried out by prisoners from Eastern Europe and Norwegian prisoners. 25 prisoners died during construction, either from frostbite, exhaustion, or execution.

    Fjell Fortress is on top of the Fjedlafjedlet Mountain, in the small town Fjell, in Fjell municipality. You can walk around the impressive labyrinth of roads 10 metres underground. The exhibitions are located in an authentic military construction inside the fortress.

    Fjell fortress is located on the island of Sotra. This Nazi coastal battery was rediscovered in 2003. The Nazis established this fortress complex with underground bunkers, barracks, a hospital and storage.

    Herdla Museum

    Located at the tip of Askøy on a moraine island, you can see both a fighter aircraft from World War II and an intact torpedo battery from the Cold War. Exhibitions are about how the island was formed, how it was used as a German airbase, as well as the areas unique bird life.

    The main attraction is the German fighter Yellow-16, which took off from the airbase at Herdla. After 64 years on the seabed, the aircraft was raised and placed at the museum. There are guided tours of the torpedo battery and the tour goes over the Cold War.

    Hellen Fort

    Hellen Fort is located near Sandviken. It was built between 1895 and 1905 and was used by the Germans during World War II. As the Germans were invading Norway on the 9th of April, they bombed the fortress, killing six Norwegians. Here’s a recent article about a recent memorial for the Norwegians who passed away: https://www.ba.no/nyheter/de-ga-alt-for-norge/s/5-8-52480

    Today the fort is mostly a hiking trail, and you can find out about the trail by clicking here.

    Kvarven Fort

    Kvarven fort is from the late 1800s. Designed to protect Norway from a potential attack against Sweden, it was never used. During WWII, 33 officers and 279 corporals and privates with an average age of 40 were at the fort. The fort failed to open fire at the first German ships, mistaking them for unarmed merchant ships. When the fort finally opened fire, it only managed to get off a few shots through the fog at two torpedo boats.

    The German ships did not retaliate but sent a morse coded message in English saying ‘stop shooting’. The fort went on to shoot the cruiser Konigsberg three times, and the ship barely survived. A few hours later, the Kvarven surrendered. German naval personnel manned the fort for the rest of the war. The fort opened in 1993 as a preserved cultural area, and now it’s a nice place to go hiking.

    Bergen Travel Guide
    Norway Travel Guide