norway

  • Which Month is Best for Visiting Norway?

    Which Month is Best for Visiting Norway?

    Welcome to my guide that will answer your question: what month is best for visiting Norway?

    In this guide, you’l find a seasonal overview of the weather, what to pack, food, and events. There are also buttons that will lead you to pages dedicated to specific months of the year. 

    If you want to know what month is best for a specific destination, browse my digital travel guide (click here). You’ll find all the places I cover, and when you click on them you’ll find a section for the weather. 

    When should you visit Norway? What month is the best month? When is it warm and sun? When can I see the Northern Lights?

    These are commonly asked questions when travellers are planning to come to Norway. And there are hundreds of articles online giving you various answers, though they all typically say the same thing: July! Warmth! Sun! Pleasant! I read through dozens of these articles and typically read the same advice. However, it doesn’t really coincide with what I’ve experienced actually travelling in Norway.

    I take groups around Norway throughout the year for different purposes, and I’ve found that there is no special month to visit. No month is the ‘best’ month. No season is the ‘best season’. It depends on what you want to experience. Don’t like crowds? July isn’t for you. Don’t like rain? Maybe skip November (but seriously, you have to love the rain if you’re coming to Norway!)

    Choosing which month is best really depends on what you want to get out of Norway. So, in my guide, rather than tell you the ‘best’ month, I’ve put together an overview of what Norway is like each month. That way, you can understand what you can expect and choose your time of year from there.

    I’ve provided a general overview of Norway in each month, but focus also on Bergen. I mean, this blog is called ‘I Love Bergen’ after all! Also I live in Bergen, so I deal with the weather every day. For temperature averages, I focused on the three most commonly visited cities: Oslo, Bergen and Tromsø. But, of course, the weather varies dramatically across the country. If you think I should add a city, let me know.

    You can find weather information for specific cities in my digital travel guide (click here). 

    I’ve also focused on the most recent data for each month. It’s easy to get overall averages, but the weather in Norway is changing: it’s warming up. So I think the recent data is much more realistic than averages built up over time.

    If you think I’ve skipped over anything, or if there’s anything you think I should add, let me know!

    In this article...

    Quick Summary

    • Northern Lights: I’ve had the most success in March and September, though any time between September and March works as long as you put in the effort
    • Winter Activities: Come between December and March, though if you can push it to January do that.
    • Cool Weather: April, May, September, October, November, plus all of winter (of course)
    • Nature Lovers: May or October. Spring or Autumn
    • No Crowds, Open Attractions: May
    • Hot Weather: July. But don’t expect it to be hot like elsewhere in Europe
    • Snow: February/March. March is the month with the deepest snow
    • My recommended month: May

    Winter

    Winter is a lovely time to be in Norway, despite the fact it’s the quietest time of the year. Most of the country turns into a winter wonderland, and the northern lights begin to shine in the skies. While Bergen doesn’t see much snow at this time of year, you just have to travel an hour inland and you are surrounded by some of the most popular ski slopes in the country.

    Skiing has a special place in Norwegian culture and history, and during the winter people of all ages head to ski resorts, forests and mountains to enjoy their national hobby.

    Clothing

    Winter in Norway can, of course, be very cold. Bring layers. Use wool rather than cotton or polyester, and make sure you have waterproof clothing, as well as a coat that is both water and windproof. This is especially important in the coastal areas. If you are visiting a city, you don’t need waterproof pants and a down jacket will work just fine.

    Seasonal Food & Drink

    Winter is the best time of year to eat seafood such as prawns, langoustine, blue mussel, scallop and lobster. Fresh fish is also best in winter, and many restaurants offer cod, halibut, salmon and trout.

    Christmas food will be found on the menus throughout winter. This includes smalahove (sheep’s head), lutefisk (cod soaked in lye), and pinnekjøtt (dried, salted and steamed sheep’s ribs).

    Weather

    In winter, the average temperature for the entire country is -6.8 degrees, but the conditions vary a lot. Around Oslo, snowfall is common, and the average temperature is just below zero. In Bergen, the weather rarely goes into the negatives and we get more rain than snow.

    The lower areas of Northern Norway have very cold winters with lots of snow. The snow, strong winds and severe frost is particularly harsh, and may result in road closures.

    The coastal areas are much milder.

    The sun disappears from Northern Norway by the end of November, and until mid-January the region experiences the polar night. This doesn’t mean it’s completely pitch black throughout winter; Northern Norway gets these lovely polar lights; blue, pink and orange skies during the daytime, and then perfect northern lights darkness during the night. In southern Norway, at its worst, we get around 5.5 hours of sunlight a day.

    December is a very quiet month. It is the darkest month of the year, and many choose to have a quiet month centered around staying home and enjoying Christmas traditions. 

    Activities

    • Visit the Northern Lights Festival in Tromso
    • in Tromso they host the Northern Lights Festival

    Weather

    Typically February is the coldest month of the year.

    Northern Lights

    February is considered to be ideal for viewing the northern lights.

    Activities

    Many winter activities are on offer in February. 

    • The Polar Jazz Festival is held in February. It is the world’s northernmost jazz festival, taking place in Svalbard. 
    • Rørosmartnan is Norway’s largest winter festival. It’s held in Røros, one of my favourite places in Norway. 
    • Sami Week is a must if you are coming in February. During the first week of February, Sami culture is celebrated around the country. In Tromsø, they host the national reindeer sledge championship on the main street. 

    Spring

    Hardanger in May

    While Spring technically starts in March, it is still cold and snowy. March, after all, is still a popular month for seeing snow, the northern lights, and taking part in winter activities.

    During April and May, the days are getting longer and the snow is beginning to melt. During May, the plants all turn green and the flowers boom. Birds are starting to build their nests and farmers are delivering their newborn lambs. It’s a lovely time of year to be in Norway!

    Spring is the best time of year to see waterfalls. As the snow is melting, it creates giant waterfalls. By July, their flow has weakened considerably, and in winter they are frozen.

    Spring is also when the birds are at their liveliest. The migratory birds return home in April to enjoy the warmer seasons. The Varanger Peninsula is one of the best places to see birds like white-tailed eagles, gyrfalcons, steller’s eider and Arctic Sea Ducks. If you visit Røst in Lofoten in mid-April, you’ll see thousands of Arctic puffins return to their breeding grouns.

    On the West Coast of Norway, you typically get spring in late April/early May. They have to be a little more patient in Northern Norway, with spring coming in late May or early June, but by then the days are long and bright and the summer days have already started. May is the month when the two-month-long midnight sun begins in the Arctic.

    It’s notoriously hard to predict when spring arrives; technically the spring equinox is around 20 March. Personally, I don’t start feeling the spring weather until May. But even then, May can be a snowy month.

    Winter is a lovely time to be in Norway, despite the fact it’s the quietest time of the year. Most of the country turns into a winter wonderland, and the northern lights begin to shine in the skies. While Bergen doesn’t see much snow at this time of year, you just have to travel an hour inland and you are surrounded by some of the most popular ski slopes in the country.

    Skiing has a special place in Norwegian culture and history, and during the winter people of all ages head to ski resorts, forests and mountains to enjoy their national hobby.

    Clothing

    Dressing in April and May is difficult because the weather is so hard to predict; by the time you’ve put on your jacket, the weather has changed for either the worse or the better.

    It’s good to pack warm clothes no matter what, and a waterproof and windproof jacket is always needed. Make sure you dress in layers so you can adjust according to the weather.

    You typically won’t need snow boots in April, and you definitely won’t need them in May. While we still may get snow, it does melt very quickly and doesn’t affect walking around. In Northern Norway, the snow may sit for a little longer, but it’s not often slippery.

    Seasonal food & drink

    Spring is the time for lamb dishes, usually around Easter, and it’s also when we have the first potatoes, asparagus and wild garlic for the year.

    Fresh fish is always good, and in spring we typically have herring and cod from the Lofoten area.

    Closer to summer, rhubarb begins to appear.

    May is a month of public holidays included the much loved 17 May (Constitution Day), and for that day many Norwegians bake incredible cakes, pastries and breads. The best cakes have lots of fresh berries on them, whereas the popular and much loved kransekake is available for purchase in stores.

    During spring you finish your winter food, and you may come across salted meat and raspeball on the menus. Raspeball is a traditional potato dumlping, though it goes by many dufferent names!

    Weather

    Spring arrives early in Southern Norway compared to the rest of the country, usually some time in April. The days are getting warmer and lighter every day. Spring flowers appear, the trees are budding, birds build their nests and farmers deliver newborn lambs. In early spring the coastal areas of Western Norway have the highest temperatures. In May, it’s normally southern Norway that has the warmest weather.

    Above the Arctic Circle, Spring may not come until late May or early June.

    I’ve always found spring hard to predict. Last year, in May, it was hot and sunny, but this year it’s been cold, rainy and snowy for pretty much all the month.

    In March the days begin to feel much longer. March is also considered one of the best months for visiting Svalbard.

    Activities

    • The Finnmarksløpet is held in March. It is Europe’s longest dog sled endurance race and takes place up in Finnmark
    • The Sami Grand Prix (their version of Eurovision) is held in March
    • Sunfest in Longyearbyen is a celebration of the sun returning to the island

    April is a quiet month in Norway. The weather can be unpredictable and Norwegians are eagerly awaiting May and the good weather that will come. 

    Activities

    • Stavanger Vinfest. In mid-April a large celebration of food and wine is held in Stavanger
    • Trondheim Blues is one of northern Europe’s premier blues events. It takes place in Trondheim. 

    Spring arrives properly in May. All of the flowers begin to bloom, the snow melts, and it is typically one of the sunniest months in the country. 

    Activities

    Many festivals take place in May:

    • Constitution Day. If you are planning a trip to Norway in May, try to come on Constitution Day. The 17th of May is a huge celebration in the city and you’ll get to watch the parade, see people in their bunads, and enjoy true Norwegian patriotism. 
    • The Alta Blues and Soul Festival takes place in late May and has a month-long program of music performances
    • Bergen’s International Festival is one of Norway’s largest cultural events and has a two week line-up of cultural events, including dance, music, and presentations
    • Codstock in Lofoten in May is perhaps the best festival title in Norway. It is the celebration of cod and local music

    Summer

    Summer! Summer is (of course) the most popular time to visit Norway, and why not. The days are long, the sun is shining, and everything is open. The Norwegian summer weather is (for the most part) quite stable, and the temperatures are lovely all over the country. In July, during the summer holidays, you’ll see the locals out enjoying the sun after a long and cold winter. It’s also common for people to go out on their boats. Some have their sailing boats, while most just use their small traditional boats to cruise on the fjords and through the archipelagos.

    Summer is a popular month to go hiking, and all trails typically are open by July. Lots of people also spend nights out in nature camping and take to the ski trails to go cycling. Outdoor recreation is a major part of the Norwegian identity.

    At the same time, summer is the high season. Expect cruise ships, endless bus tours, crowds, lines, and higher prices. Hotels may sell out months in advance, while museums may be overcrowded to the point it’s unpleasant. Everyone comes in summer. The July holidays for Europe sees numerous caravanning Germans or Dutch on the roads, which is a thrill on the narrow fjord roads.

    Clothing

    Norwegian weather is always unpredictable. It may be hot and sunny one day, and then the next day it’s cold and rainy. Always pack windproof and waterproof clothing, but don’t hesitant to pack shorts and a t-shirt!

    Seasonal food & drink

    Summer is a lovely time for fresh berries, and blueberries are commonly found in the Norwegian forests and mountains. In Southern Norway, they tend to ripen in the middle of Summer. In July and August, you’ll see roadside booths offering locally grown strawberries and cherries for sale.

    Norwegians love grilling. Whole sections of the supermarket are dedicated to it. Almost no matter the weather Norwegians will be outside grilling whatever they come across. Vegetables, fish, meat, and poultry on the barbeque is a summer tradition for the Norwegians.

    The first sign of summer is when you see Norwegians outside drinking beer. There is even a Norwegian word for this: utepils. It’s so ingrained in summer that the first opportunity for it will often be mentioned in the press.

    Pick up a lovely plate of freshly caught fish served with sour cream, potatoes and cucumber salad. Or maybe have shrimp straight from the boat, enjoyed right at the dock?

    Weather

    Typically, summer temperatures reach 25 to 30 degrees, and there is hardly any humidity in the area. Even the nights are warm.

    In the last two years, we have had sweltering heatwaves where temperatures have gone over 33 degrees.

    The warm months sound great at first, but Norway is not built for hot weather. Hotels are typically not air conditioned, as are museums and supermarkets. It gets uncomfortably hot during summer, and this can be pleasant, especially if you aren’t used to that kind of heat. I mean, I’m from Australia and I find it unpleasant! So don’t think you have to travel in July because it’s hot and sunny; most of my groups love the colder weather. It’s more Norwegian, right?

    From late June to early August it never really gets dark anywhere in the country. The midnight sun occurs only above the Arctic Circle, and lasts typically from mid-May to the end of July. Below the Arctic Circle the sun does set, but we never really get a true darkness. The sky is more like dusk throughout the night.

    The warmest and most stable weather usually occurs in Eastern Norway, where it’s often very sunny and temperatures are over 25 degrees Celsius.

    The highest temperatures are inland.

    Along the Western Coast, the cool sea breezes keep most heat waves at bay, but keep in mind Bergen can be very rainy, even in summer. A lovely sunny day can be followed by three miserable rainy ones.

    June is when tourism really returned to Norway and it gets crowded very fast.

    It is a good time to go whale watching up in Northern Norway around Andenes

    Activities:

    • Voss Extreme Sports Week: Head to Voss in Western Norway for an action packed week of outdoor sports. 
    • Midnight Sun marathon in Tromso: This is the world’s northernmost 42km road race and worth going to watch if you aren’t a marathoner. 

    July is peak tourist season and is very crowded. Still, it is a nice warm month to come and there are some things going on. 

    Activities

    • Moldejazz in Molde is one of Norway’s most famous jazz festivals

    August is when most of the music festivals take place. The weather is still nice and warm, but the midnight sun has ended and the days are getting shorter.

    • International Chamber Music Festival takes place n Stavanger and has some nice concerts
    • Rauma Rock is Norway’s regular mix of jazz and blues
    • Øya Festival in Oslo is Norway’s largest rock festival

    Autumn (Fall)

    The Norwegian autumn comes with a variety of weather. In some parts of the country, summer may last until well into October, while rain and snow can arrive as early as September.

    The best part of autumn is the changing of the colours. The trees and heath turn yellow and red and leaves start to fall off the trees. The colours are at their most dazzling in autumn. The mountains are especially beautiful at this time of the year, and it’s a popular season to go hiking.

    Summer! Summer is (of course) the most popular time to visit Norway, and why not. The days are long, the sun is shining, and everything is open. The Norwegian summer weather is (for the most part) quite stable, and the temperatures are lovely all over the country. In July, during the summer holidays, you’ll see the locals out enjoying the sun after a long and cold winter. It’s also common for people to go out on their boats. Some have their sailing boats, while most just use their small traditional boats to cruise on the fjords and through the archipelagos.

    Summer is a popular month to go hiking, and all trails typically are open by July. Lots of people also spend nights out in nature camping and take to the ski trails to go cycling. Outdoor recreation is a major part of the Norwegian identity.

    At the same time, summer is the high season. Expect cruise ships, endless bus tours, crowds, lines, and higher prices. Hotels may sell out months in advance, while museums may be overcrowded to the point it’s unpleasant. Everyone comes in summer. The July holidays for Europe sees numerous caravanning Germans or Dutch on the roads, which is a thrill on the narrow fjord roads.

    Clothing

    Wind and rain make the outdoors a typically wet experience in autumn, but you may get lucky and see a last glimpse of summer weather. It is difficult to predict the weather in autumn, but you should pack wind and rainproof outer clothing. Underneath wear a couple layers that you can adjust according to the temperatures.

    Seasonal food & drink

    Autumn is harvesting time. This is when the menus change once again, and Norwegians favour local ingredients and slow-booked and rich dishes suited for a chillier climate.

    Fårikål, Norway’s national dish, is popular in autumn; there’s even the Fårikål Feast Day in September.

    The Norwegian word for autumn is høst, which literally translates to harvest. Gathering fruits, berries and mushrooms is a popular hobby. Lots of Christmas treats are prepared in autumn.

    Apple Day is also celebrated in September. The season’s apples are perfect as jams and pies.

    Other popular foods are lamb, moose and other wild beasts, which go well with lingonberries and cream sauce. Potatoes, sweet carrots and crispy chanterelles also are found on menus.

    The crowds and cruise ships begin to disappear in September, so it can be a nice time to visit. However, the weather can be a little unpredictable. 

    In October the temperatures are dropping. You get the nice fall colours in October. 

    Activities

    • Bergen International Film Festival is one of Norway’s largest festivals. It is largely a documentary festival

    November is a quiet month for tourism and the winter can start to come. Winter activities don’t typically begin now because there isn’t stable snow on the ground yet. 

  • Drive it Yourself: Folldal to Røros: A Scenic Drive Through the Industrial Region of Eastern Norway

    Drive it Yourself: Folldal to Røros: A Scenic Drive Through the Industrial Region of Eastern Norway

    I love Røros. I’m fairly positive I begin each article about Røros with that statement, but it’s very true. Røros has an incredible history and is a very well preserved town. I’m surprised more travellers in Norway don’t go there.

    When we are visiting Røros in September 2020, we were driving up from Ringebu via the Rondane National Park. The road to Røros isn’t direct, but we didn’t mind. Little did we know that we were actually driving through a historic mining region. The road from Folldal to Røros is a very old mining area – mining began here in the 17th century. Many of the towns you pass through on this drive were established thanks to Røros Copperworks – the main mining company here.

    Even if mining isn’t of interest to you, don’t pass up a chance to drive through this gorgeous part of the country.

    Here’s my drive from Folldal to Røros via Alvdal on Highway 3 in Norway.

    In this article...

    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    The drive: Folldal to Røros

    Folldal Mines

    Historic Site

    We begin at the Folldal mines, an old 18th century mine that is today heritage listed in Norway.

    Mining was the main industry in Folldal from the 18th century until 1993.

    Folldal Works (Folldal Verk) was founded in 1748, the same year the main copper mine opened. Copper, mine and zinc was all mined in Folldal. It was then transported by horse carriage to the neighbouring Alvdal municipality, where there was a smelter. In 1906, a 34km-long cable car (North Europe’s longest) was built to transport goods to the smelter.

    The main mine closed in 1941, but smelting continued using ore from other deposits until 1968. Business closed in 1993.

    Today the mines are a museum.

    The museum has short opening hours – late June to mid-August. They have some really interesting attractions and ticket combos, so I will be back!

    You can drive up to the carpark and wander around outside for free.

    Click here to view their website.

    On their website you’ll find opening hours and ticket fees.

    Vassaga

    Historic Site/Detour

    Vassaga is a preserved sawmill from 1900. It is powered by water and is unique because it has a special device for sawing shavings. This is the only known instance of a sawmill having a device for shavings. The shavings are used in roofing in the area.

    You’ll see signs pointing to it from the highway.

    Folldal Church

    Church/Detour

    Folldal Church is located on the road that leads to Vassaga. The church is a typical rural church from the late 19th century. The altarpiece inside is from the 17th century.

    Grimsbu

    Village

    Grimsbu is a tiny town; when I was researching it, some of the top hits on the web were for the IKEA furniture named after the town!

    There is a campsite in Grimsbu – the Grimsbu Turistsenter – that has everything you’ll ever need when camping. From Grimsbu, there are hiking and skiing trails plus spots for fishing.

    There is an ancient road in Grimsbu called Byveien. It is a route over the mountain that from around 1050 until the Reformation connected the pilgrims routes through Gudbrandsdalen and Østerdalen. In the 12th century, the road was laid out as a pilgrimate route from Innlandet to Nidaros. The road was forgotten for many centuries, but now there is an active effort to restore the road. The trail is north of Grimsbu. An image of it can be seen here. 

    Grimsbu also has an old BP petrol station that looks as it did when it was put there in 1955. There used to be a country store on the property – it dates back to 1900 – but in the 50s they modernised with a petrol station. A website for it is found here (also the image source). 

    The BP station is by the Fv29 and across the street from the Grimsbu Turistsenter – a hotel/cafe/shop building.

    Einunna

    Historic Site

    When Norway was invaded on 9 April 1940, a group of Norwegians mobilised in Alvdal. They organised a defence at Einunna Bridge by blowing it up.

    When the Germans arrive on 26 April, they inspected the bridge and the Norwegians surprised them with gunfire. A fight commenced, but the Norwegians were buried in snow and hard to see. The German tanks managed to keep the Norwegians down so most of the Germans could get out. They tried to advance, but it was impossible. The Germans did eventually occupy Alvdal, but they came in via another road.

    From 2020, the bridge is being rebuilt.

    There was a rest area, but when I visited it was closed due to the construction work.

    Info about the WWII battle

    Musea i Nord Osterdalen link

    Alvdal Municipality

    You cross into Alvdal Municipality.

    Alvdal

    Town

    Alvdal is a small town (pop. 2,418) with a long tradition of mining, as is common in this part of Norway (and the focus of our drive!).

    There has been mining in Alvdal since 1656, when the first finds of copper ore were made nearby. Mining didn’t take off until copper was found in Folldal in 1745.

    The mines in Folldal got into disputes with the mining operations in Røros, including access to timber. Due to the little access to timber in Folldal, a smelting hut was built in Alvdal instead. Alvdal has plenty of access to timber. It was less resource intensive to transfer ore to Alvdal than it was to transport wood to Folldal.

    New mines were built around the area in the 18th century. From 1905, a cable car was used to transport ore to Alvdal.

    Mining operations declined and have mostly ended now. Today the largest employer is the dairy company, and many people work in agriculture and the timber industry.

    Glomma River

    River

    At 621km (386 mi), the Glomma is Norway’s longest river. It has a drainage basin that covers 13% of Norway’s surface area, all in the southern part of the country.

    At its full length, the river runs from Aursund near Røros and empties into the Oslofjord in Fredrikstad.

    The combination of raw materials, water power and transport has over the centuries encouraged industry along the Glomma. Some of the country’s largest manufacturing and processing businesses are found at its mouth.

    Tynset Municipality

    You cross into Tynset Municipality.

    Tynset

    Town

    Tynset is a small town located in the north of Østerdalen, or the Eastern Valley. It is first mentioned in 1211, when the archbishop of Nidaros consecrated a stave church. There is no stave church today; there are parts from an old stave church at Kvikne (more on that below).

    The town is known for its vast areas of forest and mountains, which are ideal for outdoor activities. Tynset is also one of the few places where most of its mountain farms (seter) are in use. You can visit them when hiking, and even rent some for the night.

    Kickers/kicksleds (Norwegian: spark) are produced here. The world’s largest kicker is in the main square of Tynset; it is four times life-size.

    Kvikne

    Historic Site/Detour

    Kvikne is home to the Kvikne copperworks, founded in 1630, which was one of Norway’s first copperworks. This led to the population in the mountain village rising and laying a foundation for further development. The copperworks was run by the Danish King, and was the largest copper plant in Norway. Eventually Folldal and Røros became more important, and Kvikne was clsoed down in 1812, though operations continued in a much smaller capacity until 1912. Only ruins remain today, but you can visit them.

    Kvikne Church is from 1654 and seats 203. It has decorated equipment and an interior with a carved altarpiece and pulpit. The crucifix is in the Romanesque style and dates to around 1200. In the attic, stave church planks in the Urnes style have been found, probably from an older church on the site. Bjørnstjerne Bjørnson was baptised in the church.

    Close to the church is the Bjørgan vicarage, a museum and former vicarage in Kvikne. It is considered an artists home as Bjørnstjerne Bjørnson (1832-1910) was born here and lived here until he was five.

    The house is built in 1780 and was a vicarage until 1860. The building was supposed to be demolished, but it was saved in an attempt to make it a museum for Bjørnson. Several items from his time are on display in the museum.

    Kvikne is a 40 minute drive from Tynset, so it is quite the detour but worth doing.

    Telneset

    Town

    The next small town along the Fv30 is Telneset. It is not an old town; it was actually built up alongside the establishment of the Røros Line in 1877. A small community was built up around the train station, and soon there was a post office and a sawmill. The sawmill made materials for building houses, and soon there was a concrete foundry to supply roof tiles and pipes, plus a carpentry to make windows, doors and furniture.

    Telneset saw a dramatic event take place here during World War II. On 24 April 1940, the Germans were coming up Østerdalen while a train with Norwegians was in retreat. The train was shelled and had to stop at Telneset. German planes came and dropped 13 bombs on the train and the damage was great; six Norwegians were killed.

    Today Telneset is a small agricultural community.

    Tolga Municipality

    You cross into Tolga Municipality.

    Tolga

    Town

    Our next stop is Tolga, which was built up around the Tolga smeltehytte (smelting cabin) in the 1660s. The smelter was operated by Røros Kobberverk and it was in operation until 8171. Tolga was a suitable location because it had waterfall power plus a good supply of timber.

    Today many people work in agricultural, though the municipality is the largest employer.

    In the town centre you’ll find an old farmstead called Dølmotunet. During the summer there are tons of activities thee, and an exhibition has items from the Stone Age to the 19th century.

    You can learn more about the smelter here. 

    Os

    Town

    Os is a small village with about 25% of the population working in agriculture. The timber industry is also important to the region.

    A skirmish took place here duing World War II. It was the last skirmish in the region before the Germans were able to occupy the area, and it was one of the few fighting operations where Swedish and Finnish volunteers participated in fighting against the occupying forces in 1940. The Germans burned down eight farms as reprisals.

    In Os you’ll find a museum with objects preserved from the region. The Forollhogna National Park is also nearby. The mountain peaks are popular for skiing in the winter.

    Trøndelag County

    You cross into Trøndelag County.

    Røros Municipality

    You cross into Røros Municipality.

    Røros

    Welcome to Røros! We made it. Røros is a UNESCO World Heritage Area full of history, charm, and things to do. I recommend parking at the Smelthytta Musuem and exploring Røros on foot. You can spend heaps of time here – be sure to make the most of it.

    The Previous Drive

    The Rondane National Park

    The best way to get to Folldal is by taking the Rondane Tourist Road. 

    The Next Drive

    Oppdal to Kristiansund

    On the following day we drove to Kristiansund on the west coast of Norway via Oppdal. 

    This drive is part of the multi-day series “The Ultimate Norwegian Road-trip”, where we cover the best of Norway in an incredible 10 day drive. You can view the whole road-trip via the link below. 

    If you liked this drive, or if you have any travel tips, please leave a comment in the section below!

  • The Most Haunted Places in Bergen

    I love haunted stories. Every time the husband and I travel somewhere, we do a ghost tour. No, I do not care for ghosts or scary stories. Instead, I like the stories of the everyday and the weird that makes a town sound more unique. Typical walking stories tend to focus on kings, the upper class, and famous people. Ghost stories focus on the lower class, the merchants, the poor. It’s fascinating. So, in the spirit of Halloween, I had to seek out the most haunted places in Bergen.

    Like any good ghost story, the haunted places of Bergen are local legend and not really written about in English. I had to dig through newspapers, Norwegian blogs, and other websites to find the good stuff. Bergen has some crazy stories, as this page will tell.

    If you know any ghost stories in Bergen (or surrounds) add them in the comments!

    Haunted Places in Bergen

    The Worst Criminals in a Dungeon at Rosenkrantz Tower

    The Rosenkrantz Tower is intimidating in its own right, but anyone who has been inside knows how eerie the basement is.

    A little bit about the tower. It was originally built in 1270 as an apartment for the King, Magnus the Lawmender. When Bergen was part of Denmark, the Danish lord Erik Rosenkrantz built the tower in its current form. There have been alterations to the tower before Rosenkrantz, but his is the most famous. The dungeon was added around the year 1500.

    The dungeon is 4m x 1m, and the ceiling is just high enough to stand up in. Light only comes through a crack in the walls, which are very damp. Imprisoned here were the worst prisoners. The cell was in use from the 16th until the 19th centuries.

    Related Articles: A Walk Through the Bergen Fortress

    Eternal Guest at the Radisson Blu Hotel

    Maybe you’ll be staying at the Radisson Blu on your stay? Skip this section if so.

    Okay, for those of you who stayed. Before a major renovation at the Radisson Blu, the staff observed strange things. The events took place on the second floor near the nightclub.

    Staff saw the ‘eternal guest’ often. In the mornings, they saw him with a beer glass. The revolving doors into the kitchen also moved without anyone being there. Some employees even reported seeing a shadow following them in the corridors. Sometimes a figure would be seen on the dance-floor after closing time.

    The staff elevator is one of the most affected places. It can only be used with a code, and it links the party rooms to the kitchen. Occasionally the elevator would stop by itself on the second floor. The doors would open and everything was completely dark. No one had been to this floor.

    So, there’s a beer-loving disco ghost wandering the party rooms of the Radisson Blu.

    Hauntings at Bryggen

    Bryggen Tracteursted

    Bryggen Tracteursted is a restaurant located behind Bryggen. It’s in a schøtstuene (assembly room) built in 1708. Of course it’s haunted.
    One night a chef was working while playing some music. Suddenly, the pans from the shelves fell off. The chef is sure that something supernatural was the cause of the events.

    The Hanseatic Games

    Bryggen in general feels very haunted. After all, this is where people have Bergen have lived since the 11th century. It’s the Hanseatic times (1360-1754) that have some creepy stories. In particular are the games that the apprentice merchants would play. One is the water game, held in May. The new boys went to ships on the bay. Their clothes were taken off and a rope tied around their waist. They were then tossed into the water and hoisted up. They repeated this several times. Out at sea, several older men waiting with a rowing boat, armed with sticks. They tried to hit the wet boys. After the ceremony, the boys went back to continue serving the dinner party. One boy is believed to have died when his belly was torn open by a protruding nail outside the ship.

    There are so many stories of these games. Another one is the smoking game. Older boys made a fire, and the younger boys were tied up in ropes and lifted up above the fire. While hanging, the boy was asked questions that he should know the answer to, mostly about the business. If he got the answers right, he was released. If he got an answer wrong, he was lowered further into the fire. One boy is said to have died. The statue outside Svensgården represents that the boy came out of the fire looking he had multiple eyes and noses.

    Lonely Mother at St. Jørgens

    St. Jørgen’s Hospital is one of the best preserved leprosy hospitals in Europe. The Nonneseter Abbey constructed the hospital in the 1300s to treat the growing number of patients. Over the years it developed into one of Bergen’s most important hospitals. Armeur Hansen discovered the cause of leprosy in Bergen and worked near the hospital.

    The patients of St. Jørgens had to live in the hospital. They were self-sufficient with their own vegetable gardens and livestock. They would share rooms roughly 2m x 2m, but had a large kitchen and common area.
    One of my friends once told me a story about the hospital. Now, every time I walk through the hospital grounds (it’s part of my walking tours) I am reminded of this haunting story. A woman was admitted to St. Jørgen’s for having leprosy and had to remain on the property. Every Sunday, a nanny would bring the woman’s children to play in the park across from the hospital. The children had been told their mother had died, and they were unsure why they were playing in this park. They were brought here so their mother could see them.

    Today St. Jørgen’s is the leprosy museum of Bergen, with exhibitions and guided tours.

    Cemeteries Around Bergen

    Cemeteries are always creepy. They are also always haunted. St. Jacobs has an interesting story. Established in 1629 as a cemetery for the poor, it is the oldest cemetery in Bergen. Back then it was very uncommon to bury the poor in marked graves. So, between 60 and 70 percent of the dead had unmarked graves. Meanwhile, the wealthy were buried inside the churches – often in the floor or crypts in the basement.

    In the 19th century, it became less common to bury the wealthy in the church. After all, imagine the smell coming from the church? Eventually, St. Jacob’s became a cemetery for the upper class. The graves of many famous Bergenser’s are there.

    An honourable mention goes to the cemetery around the Bergen Cathedral. That cemetery was the leprosy cemetery. It got so full that they made cemeteries like St. Jacobs.

    Further down the road is the Assistant Cemetery. In 2016, when they were doing work on the railway, they found skulls belonging to 50-60 people. They were likely buried in the 19th century.

    Bergen Prison

    The prison in Bergen was built in the mid-19th century. A reform in the country meant new prisons based on the Philadelphia system. This meant one prisoner per cell, and harsh treatment of each prisoner. The Bergen prison did built one cell for each prisoner, but it became known for being nice to the prisoners. During the 1916 fire, the prison was in peril. The prison management let the prisoners go, asking them to come back the next day. With one or two exceptions, the prisoners returned after the prison wasn’t lost in the fire.

    The Gestapo took over the prison in 1940. One of the Gustapo’s prisoners was Gunvor Mowinckel, who was imprisoned here 1944-45. She and her husband were sheltering refugees during the Norwegian resistance and arrested for this. After an interrogation and torture by the Gestapo, they are imprisoned here. Gunvor wrote:

    “At a point in the Gestapo HQ I was asked by Kesting (Gustapo) how many children I had. When I answered, Kesting said that the children of such a terrible individual weren’t worthy of life.

    Later that day we were transferred to the Bergen County Jail. It was a horrible time. I think the fear for the children and what was coming next was the worst.”

    The prison is now abandoned and certainly has a creepy vibe about it. While the stories aren’t exactly scary, there’s something eerie about the building.

    Town Hall Prison

    The town hall prison is creepier than the main prison. The basement had a cell for 12 prisoners and a room for the mentally ill. There was no fresh air. If they had the opportunity to move around, it was in the corridor outside their cell. No outdoor area was available to them. It wasn’t a prison but a holding cell before sentencing. Prisoners could wait up to two years in this basement cell with stench, darkness, no light, no heat, and no comfort.
    When they were sentenced, they were sent to prison or executed.

    Executions were commonplace. For example, in 1630 they executed a woman for stealing from the parish clerk. In 1632 they accused a girl of causing a shipwreck – she was clearly a witch. After torture, the girl pointed the finger at another woman for causing the disaster. This woman was also executed. If the crime was petty, prisoners were deported to Northern Norway. In 1692, wealthy merchant Jørgen Thormøhlen got permission from the King to take prisoners to his colony in the West Indies.

    As mentioned above, there was a bedlam next to the holding cell. They likely received no treatment. Back then, the mentally ill were treated poorly. For example, in 1634 they executed a man for helping treat someone back to their sanity.

    A room is still preserved in the basement, but it’s seldom open to the public.

    The Apprentice

    Kløverhuset is a shopping mall located on Strandgaten in Nordnes. The shopping mall made news many years ago for noises that were coming from it at night. The noise was so intense that the locals complained to the press. It gained so much attention that a clairvoyant came to inspect the mall. The clairvoyant said she spoke to a figure named Albert Albertsen. Turns out, he was an apprentice to Johan Petersen, the man who started Kløverhuset in 1852.

    No reportings of Albert have been made in recent times, but maybe he’s still there?

    Gestapo Headquarters

    The Gestapo was an executive branch of the German security police during the Second World War. Germans occupied Bergen during the war. The Gestapo had their headquarters in a building close to the theatre. The building became known as a torture site and a symbol of the oppressive occupying power in Norway. Brutal methods when interrogating people became a trademark of the Gestapo.

    Following the drama in Telavåg in 1942 (click here to read about that), the Gestapo brought in the villagers for interrogation. One woman, Martha, did not want to tell the Gestapo about what was happening in Telavåg. She also didn’t want to identify the Norwegians who were part of it. To force a confession, the Gestapo beat Martha with wooden sticks until she lost consciousness.

    800 to 900 prisoners were subjected to violent interrogations by the Gestapo, where they were tied up and hung up in meat hooks in the basement or in offices further upstairs. A total of six resistance fighters died as a direct result of the Gestapo’s torture. 

    The Gestapo tortured many victims to death. To avoid breaking during interrogation, several prisoners jumped to their death from the 4th and 5th floors.

    After the war, the Gestapo in Bergen were convicted of war crimes and sentenced to death. Today a memorial stands outside the building for those who were tortured and died.

    A museum is currently being developed on the fourth floor, where four graves have been preserved. Read more here.

    Octavia the Friendly Ghost

    Every theatre has a ghost, and Bergen’s is the friendliest. Her name is Octavia Sperati, and she is one of the female actors from the theatres early days. She is a useful ghost, taking care of the building and the people working there.

    There are several sightings of Octavia. She is observed as a woman in a white dress flying around the corridors. There are reports of knocking noises, footsteps in corridors, and paintings falling off the wall. Some even claim to hear her voice.

    If you want to see her, there is a portrait of her in the lobby. The painting has survived fires and bombings, so people think she’s the ghost.

    Ghosts in the Natural History Museum

    Rakkerdammen is a swamp area located close to the Natural History Museum. The swamp is gone, the remnants are now a pond. The site is an old execution site; ‘rakker’ means ‘executioner’. In the old times, children were told to avoid the swamp as the ghosts could take them into the swamp.
    It’s believed the ghosts haunt the Natural History Museum.. After all, it’s built on the old court square next to the execution site. Unusual activities are said to be the ghosts of those executed. The last execution was in 1803. Anders Lysne was beheaded for leading a farmers’ revolt against forced military service.

    Some of the objects inside the museum are also haunted. The Egypt department has 5,000-year-old statues on display that turn and move. This is even though they are behind glass. Observations of a monk have also been made. The old monk is moving around in the church exhibition area.

    Sibling Drama

    There’s sightings of ghosts near the old Munkeliv Monastery in Nordnes. It’s not from the monastery itself; the monastery is today a park. Rather, it comes from one of the houses close by. Yes, Bergen has a haunted house. The story goes that two siblings were romantically involved with one another and living in a house in Nordnes. The sister got pregnant, which is of course a bad thing. The couple killed the child when it was born. Then it is said the brother killed the sister before hanging himself.

    The park over the monastery is also said to be haunted. After all, the soil was taken from an old cemetery where Bergen’s worst criminals were buried. We’ll explore them now.

    Executions on Nordnes

    The majority of executions took place on the Nordnes Peninsula. There are two separate sites: Galgebakken and the area close to the aquarium.
    Galgebakken means ‘gallows’, and it’s where some executions took place. It is also where pillories were to punish and humiliate prisoners.

    The site close to the aquarium is famous for its witch burning. Over 100 women burned at the stake for being a witch in Bergen. The most famous is Anne Pedersdatter Beyer, who was the widow of priest Absalon Beyer. During the witch trials, it was very uncommon for upper class women like Anne to be accused of witchcraft. Typically, witches came from the lower classes. Being accused of witchcraft could be due to ordinary, everyday accidents. The worse accusations involved women taking part in accidents, most often shipwrecks. It’s believed they burned Anne for being a witch because she was unpopular in Bergen. After all, once you are accused, it was hard to fight that.

    Later on, the site was used for executions. Between 1842 and 1902, 1888 people were sentenced to death in Norway but only 20 were executed. Four people were beheaded in Bergen after 1814 on this site. One was the counterfeiter Jens Fenstad. Another was murderer Jakob Alexander Jakobsen Wallin. The latter was the last public execution in Bergen in 1876. 5,000 people were present when Jakob was executed. Those present were from the lower classes. The upper classes had read in the newspaper to stay away from the execution.

    St. Pauli Cemetery

    The site where St. Pauli Cemetery used to be is said to be the most haunted place in Bergen. The cemetery was established around 1650 for the poor and criminals of Bergen. It is often said that there were ghosts both inside and outside the walls. This is because they buried the poor in the walls. Meanwhile they buried the executed criminals outside the walls. Jens Fenstad, the counterfeiter, was buried outside the wall. A stone slab was over his grave until the end of the 19th century. A courthouse used to stand next to the cemetery.

    Ever since the cemetery was built over and the area got gas lanterns (and now modern lighting), the ghost activity has calmed down. Additionally, in the late 19th century the remains were moved to Møllendal Cemetery. The soil was used to built Nordnes Park, which they think has hauntings from the criminals.

    Resources

    histos.no / An excellent website with historical stories about Bergen

    Nordnes Republikken / A blog about the Nordnes Peninsula

    NRK.no

    BT.no

  • Trying Lefse in Norway

    Trying Lefse in Norway

    One of the most requested foods I get as a tour leader in Norway is lefse. It’s something everyone has heard of and wants to try when they come to Norway. Where do you even find lefse in Norway? Is it common to buy? I set out (for research purposes) to try different types of lefse in Norway and report back with which lefse to buy.

    First, though, I took a look at how Norwegians view lefse.

    In this article...

    What is lefse?

    Lefse - Wikipedia Lefse is a type of Norwegian flatbread that is often (but not always) made with potatoes, flour, butter, and milk. It has a similar texture to a thin pancake and is often eaten with butter, sugar, cinnamon or brown cheese on. Norwegian-American variations may add peanut butter, corn syrup or ham and eggs. More on that later.

    It’s important to keep in mind that lefse is not flatbread. Sometimes we use it like a flatbread, but there is also a separate Norwegian flatbread (see here)

    Although lefse has so few ingredients, recipes amongst Norwegian and Norwegian-American recipes vary considerably. Each family claims to have the best recipe there is. This makes it tricky to decipher exactly what kind of lefse you should try – flat or thin? Sugar or salmon? Brown cheese? Rolled up or flat? There are so many options. It’s especially tricky when trying to figure out what recipe can make. I can see why so many people stick to their family recipe.

    Lefse is very popular in the United States. Most importantly, in the Mid-West there is a large Norwegian-American population. Between 1850 and 1920, 800,000 Norwegians left Norway to go to the United States – at the time, the population was around 3 million people. Today, Lefse is probably more popular in the United States than it is in Norway. Therefore, Norwegian-Americans take the making of lefse very seriously. Their recipes vary from the Norwegian recipes; American’s tend to use potatoes as the main ingredient, whereas Norwegians tend to use flour.

    The history of lefse

    Norway has strong lefse traditions linked to the popularity of flatbread. Flatbread kept well, and sources from the 16th century say that it was soaked before eating. The oldest lefse was made from flour; when potato was introduced in Norway it gradually overtook flour, though not in all places. Flour wasn’t as commonly available in some parts of the country, where wheat doesn’t grow so easily, but potatoes were able to grow almost anywhere, making it a worthy replacement.

    Several lefse traditions originate in the development of flatbread into finer pastries. For example, in Helgeland, the lefse is decorated with a pattern before being fried a second time (see krinalefse). In Salten, the lefse is a soft flatbread with sour cream and brown cheese filling; the flatbread softens like a spoon when you gently fry it. As Norway was a very isolated country until recently, almost every region has its own version of lefse.

    There is a rumour that the Vikings made lefse, but this isn’t true. Potatoes arrived in Norway in the 15th century, well after the Viking Age. The Vikings may have had a flour version of lefse, but it was likely much closer to a flatbread than lefse.

    How to cook lefse

    The original lefse in Norway were made with barley and oat flours, and later they were made from rye and wheat flours. Most importantly, potatoes are used in some parts of the country, though it is much less common.

    Once the dough is ready, it is divided into balls and then flattened into thin circles – often the size of the griddle. It is then rolled with a special roller with square indents – see equipment below.

    Traditionally, the lefse was fried over an open fire, stone slab or iron plate. Today, electric griddles are used. Most lefse recipes follow the principle of flatbread baking. The lefse is placed onto the griddle with a special wooden stick. Some recipes use a pan, good to know if you can’t fit a griddle in your tiny apartment kitchen (my own experience!)

    Equipment

    Wooden Stick For example, in Wallendal in Bergen:

    Cost: 69 NOK (https://wallendahl.no/produkt/aanonsen-bakepinne-70-cm-flat/)

    Buying Online in Norway:

    Buying Online in the USA:

    Griddle Originally, my husband said griddles would be hard to find in Norway. Yet, in the very first store we checked in, we found one. Originally I was going to attempt to make lefse at home, but the griddle I found was way too big. We found it in Coop Obs:

    I think my husband was saying they were hard to find simply so we didn’t have to buy one! There are heaps online, just look for the word “steketakke”

    Buying Online in Norway:

    Buying a Griddle in the USA:

    Rolling Pin I did buy a rolling pin at Wallendahl for 199 NOK. They are easy to find:

    Buy in the USA:

    Lefse Kit Those in the USA are lucky because you can buy a lefse kit straight from Amazon that includes everything mentioned above. View it here: https://www.amazon.com/Piece-Lefse-Starter-Non-stick-Grill/dp/B00QXVUK3W/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=lefse+starter+kit&pd_rd_r=5668dc0e-8510-47a3-ad9a-392c200e97c3&pd_rd_w=Xmgxe&pd_rd_wg=1tzHh&pf_rd_p=ff875a9e-7810-43da-bae9-ec4c363817ac&pf_rd_r=DQ6HX6XG680C5WQ59VQF&qid=1592977565&sr=8-2

    Regional Differences

    When researching this article, I came across so many variations of what to do with lefse. It depends on either where you are, where you are from, or how you like your lefse.

    Moreover, traditional Norwegian lefse is smeared with butter, sugar and cinnamon. Some also use varieties of brown cheese.

    Lefse recipes vary across Norway. Here are some examples:

    Lokalmat - Snekalefse - smurt tynnlefse
    Tynnlefse (source: lokalmat)

    • Eastern Norway: Typically uses potato and the texture resembles that of soft bread. It may be used as a meal rather than a dessert, and it’s common to find salty toppings such as jam, sausage, and more. This is not common in other parts of the country. Potato was more commonly used here from the 19th century onwards and was also common in Sweden. It was essential for survival during times when the supply of grain was low. This
    • Central Norway: Tynnlefse is flour-based lefse that is rolled up with butter, sugar and cinnamon. (Recipe)
    • Salten in Nordland: Møsbrømlefse made from water, cheese and flour. (Recipe)
    • Nordland: Nordlandslefse is chunky lefse made of butter, syrup, sugar, eggs and flour. It was originally made in Western Norway as a treat to the Lofoten fishermen who arrived to trade their stockfish. (Recipe)
    • Hordaland: Anislefse resembles thin lefse but is stained by large amounts of aniseed. (Recipe)

    Eastern Norway

    Mørlefse (source)

    Western Norway

    Hardanger Lefse (source)

    Northern Norway

    Southern Norway

    Central Norway

     

    Lefse and the USA

    Lefse is very popular amongst Norwegian descendants in the United States and is commonly made and eaten around Christmas.

    Norwegian-Americans are more likely to make lefse from scratch than Norwegians are today. This is because the lefse-making tradition was brought over by Norwegians and it is seen as a way to connect to their heritage.

    Norwegian-American lefse is much more likely to be made with potatoes as many of the first Norwegians farmed potato and therefore made it easy to make lefse.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0xLlQ3ff2GM The USA is keeping the lefse tradition alive. There are classes on how to make lefse, lefse can be found in many grocery stores in the Mid-West, and there are even lefse factories! Some parts of the country even have lefse festivals, such as the Lutefisk and Lefse Festival in Fargo, North Dakota, the Lefse Fest in Fosston Minnesota, and Lefse Day in Mankato Minnesota. The Potato Days Festival in Barnesville Minnesota has a lefse cookoff.

    American Recipes

    American recipes are not as varied as Norwegian recipes, and most of the recipes I found use potatoes instead of flour.

    Here are some examples of recipes:

    Lefse in Norway today

    In Norway, lefse is a traditional food that is typically reserved for special occasions. It is not eaten that often in Norway. The only times I’ve had lefse is when I’m with a group; I’ve never had it with my family. My husband buys lefse maybe once a year. We’ve never made it, though I’m working on putting together my own recipe!

    There are lefse competitions in Norway. This is a competition overview from 2018, where the winner was Suldals Lefse and the runner up was Nordland’s Lefse. An honourable mention went to Sunnmørslefse, the only potato-based lefse mentioned. The recipes of the winners are on the website if you want to be guaranteed good tasting lefse.

    In general, lefse is a snack food you can buy from kiosks or it’s food taken when you go hiking. It is sometimes served at traditional dinners (e.g. Christmas dinner), but this is becoming less common.

    There are some really interesting Norwegian recipes that use lefse – if you want to go full Norwegian, you can make this Lefse with Lutefisk recipe. Honestly, I’ve only ever seen lefse as a sweet snack. The idea of adding fish seems foreign. But that’s just me – as we’ve learned so far, lefse preference differs greatly according to region.

    Here’s a Reddit thread of what Norwegians put on lefse today.

    Trying lefse in Norway

    Now for the fun part – where can you try lefse in Norway? For this bit, I ventured out to several supermarkets and collected up the different types of lefse I found.

    For the reviews I recruited my dear husband and local Norwegian, Sean. He is born and raised in Bergen and grew up eating lefse. I’ve lived here for four years and only eat lefse with tourists. Hopefully both of our opinions will help you!

    Vestlands Lefse with Sugar and Cinnamon

    Frozen Aisle (near the frozen breads) / 55 NOK for 6 packets of Lefse / Shop Link

    Ingredients: Plain flour, sugar, margarine, milk, salt

    Vestlandslefse is produced by Orkla Foods Norway and has its origins in Os, just south of Bergen. Production started in 1959 by Inger Bøe, and her son carried on the business. The business left Os in 2012 and is now in Stranda, Møre og Romsdal. It is closest to Møsbrømlefse, Krinalefse and Lefsekling. (See product website here)

    This is the lefse my husband buys every year and this is the one he stands by. It’s also one of the very few brands to be found in the frozen aisle. This is the first lefse I tried in Norway so it’s the lefse I associate the ‘proper’ taste with – I may be a little biased here!

    My Review: I found it a little soggy when first biting into it, but I was told by Sean it was because we didn’t let them defrost enough. I love the taste – it’s super creamy and buttery and cinnamon-ey – they don’t skimp on the ingredients. This is what I buy whenever I want a snack. It’s so so good. 4.5/5

    Sean’s Review: Most traditional tasting lefse (at least for the west coast) closest thing to what has been served traditionally in my family. Filling is excellent, with right amount of cinnamon and sugar added. 4.5/5

    Where to buy: Avaiable in all supermarkets. You can also buy individual packets at kiosks (defrosted).

    Klenning Lefse with Brown Cheese

    Near the fresh breads / 19 NOK at Kiwi / Shop link

    Ingredients: Plain flour / margarine / milk / brown cheese

    “Klenning” is a type of lefse found in Trøndelag, and the brand “Berthas” is likely what you’ll buy in stores as it is the clearly dominating brand in supermarkets. When it’s in a little packet like the one seen above, it’s often called “Turklenning”, meaning you grab it and take it with you on a hike (tur=tour in English).

    This lefse comes with small pieces of brown cheese from the cheese brand Synnøve.

    My Review: I love the brown cheese inside the lefse. It adds a really special sweetness to the bread, and there’s not enough brown cheese that it’s overpowering. I was really surprised by how good this was. 4.5/5

    Sean’s Review: Brown cheese sticks out, and like the potato lefse (below), sticks out since it is the only one on the list that has a unique flavor to it with enhanced sweetness in lieu of the more traditional cinnamon

    Klenning Lefse with Sugar and Cinnamon

    Near the fresh breads / 19 NOK

    This is the ‘normal’ version of the Turklenning lefse. It’s a standard lefse and in many ways similar to the Vestlandslefse above.

    My Review: It’s a fine, typical lefse. It’s lighter on the sugar than Vestlandslefse, and fairly forgettable (I originally forgot to include it in the article). It’s a safe bet for those who are unsure if they’ll like lefse. 3.5/5

    Sean’s Review: Nothing in this lefse that sticks out, or detracts, just ultimately a generic lefse. There is a variant with cinnamon that is preferred over this. 3/5

    Lefsegodt

    Near the fresh breads / 15 NOK / Comes with two pieces

    Ingredients: made with plain flour

    This lefse has a more sandwich texture; you can see in the photos above how much thicker it is compared to the other lefse I tried. It does look like it should have a cakey texture in some recipes I found online (see here), but this particular lefse is more bready. It takes inspiration from the “tykklefse” (see recipe here) On the packet you can see it says “Norske lefse tradisjoner”, meaning it is inspired by more traditional methods of making lefse.

    My Review: I found it to be too similar to bread, and the thickness of the lefse almost hid the butter and cinnamon underneath. I also found it to be very heavy; I don’t know if I could finish a whole one. 3/5

    Sean’s Review: Bland, and consists of mostly bread. Good snack if the goal is to fill yourself up quickly, but otherwise – pass. 2/5

    Buy on Norwegian food store

    Lefse roll made from potato lefse

    Near the fresh breads / 39 NOK at Coop supermarket / Shop link

    Finally, a potato lefse! This was the only one I could find in my local supermarket and I was eager to try potato-based lefse. On the packet you can see “en smak av Lierne”, meaning it was inspired by the lefse in Lierne, a region in Trøndelag in central Norway.

    Putting “Lefserull smurte potetlefser” returns many results for savoury recipes, including lefse with salmon and lefse with ham. The recipes look delicious, but it is something I would associate more with flatbread or tortillas. I may need to try making these recipes to see if it works.

    Now, onto what I thought:

    My Review: I really wanted to like potato lefse because it seems so popular in the United States, but I found this really hard to eat. I found the potato lefse starchy and really glue-like. However, there wasn’t really any flavour coming from a filling, so I was left with eating cold, dense potatoes. It was my least favourite of them all. 2/5

    Sean’s Review: Rubbery texture, bland taste. Stands out from the other lefse types since it is made out of potatoes. Cinnamon variant exists for this, would highly recommend over the generic non-spiced variant. 3/5

    Words to know

    Here are some Norwegian words you’ll come across when seeking out lefse:

    • Lefserull = rolled up lefse
    • Kanel = cinnamon
    • Potet = potato
    • Med = with (e.g. Lefse med kanel)
    • Tur = tour/travel. Often refers to small packets you take on a hike or little snack packs
    • Sukker = sugar
    • Brunost = Brown Cheese (the brand is Synnøve Gudbrandal)

    Conclusion

    I hope this article has been useful in discovering lefse in Norway, and hopefully you’ll be able to try some on your visit.

    Building this list: if you know another type of lefse that can be found in stores, please reach out to me so I can add it to my list!