Vadsø

  • The History of Vadsø, the Kven Capital of Norway

    The History of Vadsø

    Located in the far north-east of Norway, Vadsø is a small town with a surprisingly complex and fascinating history. The town is located on the Varanger peninsula, close to the Russian border, and for hundreds of years has seen settlement from Sami, Kven and Norwegian populations due to the rich fishing and nearby trade.

    If you are road-tripping in Northern Norway, Vadsø is located along the Varanger Tourist Road, one of the most unique tourist roads in the country. Otherwise, you will likely visit Vadsø when sailing on the coastal ferry. In any case, I really love Vadsø and think it’s a highlight in Northern Norway. So, here’s my overview of the areas history to help you understand why it’s so unique. 

    The History of Vadsø

    Norway's Coastal Ferry

    Vadsø is a port of call of Norway’s coastal ferry. Find my guide for the coastal ferry by clicking the link below. 

    Be sure to read my detailed travel guide for Vadsø, including practical information and things to do. 

    Earliest Settlement

    People have lived in the area for thousands of years. Excavations have shown that there were settlements in the area as long as 9,000 years ago. It’s believed that the first people in the area were the Sami people. They were a semi-nomadic people, relying on fishing, reindeer herding, and hunting.

    Early Migration of Norwegian & Kven People

    Starting in the late medieval period, Norwegians and Finnish immigrants, later known as Kvens, began to settle in the area. Vadsø developed as a cultural meeting point for different groups. Most Norwegians came over in the 16th century. They settled on the island of Vadsøya thanks to the close proximity to the fisheries. Vadsøya is separated from the mainland by a 70 metre wide sound that could be walked across at low tide; this is still possible today. The village even had a church on the island.

    Vadsøya Cultural Heritage Trail

    On the island Vadsøya there is a 1.8km long cultural heritage trail, with interesting information on ancient sites from the Middle Ages in Vadsø, the cemetery, the airship masts, and other war memorials.

    Pomor Trade

    Vadsø benefited from trade with Russian merchants, known as Pomors. This trade flourished in the 17th and 18th centuries. The Russians brought goods like grain in exchange for fish and other local products.

    You can read my detailed overview of the Pomor Trade by clicking the link below. 

    Moving the Settlement

    Vadsø Church in the 1930s. Photo by Anders Beer Wilse. Source: Digitalt Museum

    As the settlement grew, it was decided to move Vadsø over onto the Varanger peninsula. In 1717, the church was moved over to the mainland. The current church is the fourth church to be in Vadsø. Vadsø continued to grow in the 19th century, and was officially designated as a municipality in 1839. Throughout the 19th century, fishing remained an important part of the local economy, complemented by trade and shipping. Svend Foyn’s first whale station was located on Vadsøya. In 1875, 62% of the population was Finnish speaking, and Vadsø was considered the capital Kven city in Norway. The Finnish language is still spoken by many, and Finnish traditions are still done alongside the Norwegian ones.

    Kven Immigration

    Kvenbyen (Kven City) in Vadsø. Photo by Sven Worm-Petersen. Taken 1890-1910. Source: Digitalt Museum

    The 19th century saw significant immigration from Finland due to famine and political unrest. This influx of Kvens significantly influenced the towns culture and demographics. The town has become known as the ‘Kven capital’.

    The Kven People

    “Kven” is the name given to people of Finnish descent in Northern Norway. The present-day Kven population descends from several waves of settlement and immigration that took place in the 18th and 19th centuries. The first wave was to Troms and West Finnmark, although the largest wave of immigration was to East Finnmark and Vadsø in particular. The Kven culture is stronger in West Finnmark, but there are several buildings and remains in the east too.

     

    Source: Nord Norge travel site linked below

    The Oldest Building

    The oldest building in Vadsø is Tuomainegården, a traditional Finnish house. The house is from 1851 and is an example of a ‘Varanger House’, which is a type of house with several variants developed in East Finnmark with the influence of neighbouring countries and the many ethnic groups residing here. The house and outhouse are joined by a corridor, so you could reach the outhouse without having to go out into bad weather. The Finns also brought the sauna with them when they came, and the sauna in this building has been preserved.

    Learn more about the house by clicking here. 

    Arctic Exploration

    Vadsø mast. Photo by Anders Beer Wilse. Taken in 1928. Source: Digitalt Museum.

    Near the Hurtigruten pier in Vadsø stands a 60-meter-tall mast built in 1926 by Italian aviation engineer Umberto Nobile. It served as a mooring mast for the airships Norge in 1926 and Italia in 1928. This structure symbolizes a significant chapter in Norwegian and European polar exploration. Both airships launched from Vadsø to Ny-Ålesund on Svalbard before embarking on their historic North Pole expeditions.

    Renowned Norwegian polar explorer Roald Amundsen (1872–1928), already celebrated for his Arctic and Antarctic expeditions, believed airships were ideal for exploring uncharted Arctic regions. His initial attempt in 1922, using two airships from Tromsø, ended in crashes, though the pilots were rescued.

    In 1926, Amundsen teamed up with American millionaire Lincoln Ellsworth for a new Arctic expedition aboard the airship Norge. Designed and piloted by Nobile, the airship departed from Rome and traveled via Oslo, Leningrad, and Vadsø, crossing the Barents Sea to Ny-Ålesund. On May 11, 1926, the expedition reached the North Pole and landed in Teller, Alaska, on May 14. The crew returned to Norway as celebrated heroes.

    World War II

    Vadsø after bombing in August 1944

    Vadsø, like much of Finnmark, was heavily affected by the German occupation during World War II. Vadsø was at times the headquarters for approximately 2,000 German troops. The centre of the town was badly damaged when the Allies bombed the town in 1944. Despite the bombings, 1/3 of the towns buildings were left standing. In Vadsø, there are more preserved pre-war buildings than anywhere else in Finnmark County.

    The town was bombed several times by Soviet forces due to its strategic location. At the end of the war, it was almost entirely destroyed by the German scorched-earth retreat in 1944.

    Vadsø was completely rebuilt after the war, with modern architecture replacing older wooden buildings.

    Modern Times

    While fishing remains important for the community, the economy has diversified to include public administration, trade, and tourism. The town is also known for promoting its diverse cultural heritage, particularly the contributions of the Sami and the Kvens.

    Also, Vadsø’s location near the Barents Sea places it within the broader context of Arctic geopolitics and environmental concerns.

    Vadsø’s history reflects resilience and adaptation in a challenging Arctic environment, with a rich blend of cultures and historic events shaping its identity today.

    Norway's Coastal Ferry

    Vadsø is a port of call of Norway’s coastal ferry. Find my guide for the coastal ferry by clicking the link below. 

    Be sure to read my detailed travel guide for Uppsala, including practical information and things to do. 

  • Drive it Yourself: The Finnish Border to Tromsø on the E8

    Drive it Yourself: Finland to Tromsø on the E8

    The E8 from the Finnish border down the Finnmarksplateau to Tromsø is a short but scenic drive. The first half of the drive is rugged and remote, passing incredible sites such as the Rovijokfossen waterfall. The second half of the drive partly follows the E6 highway that goes across the length of Arctic Norway. All in all, this drive is great for those exploring the high north.

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    Finland to Tromsø on the E8

    Kilpisjärvi

    This drive begins in Kilpisjärvi, a Finnish village just over the border. The road from Finland to Tromsø is commonly called “Nordlysveien” – the Northern Lights Road – as there are many spots to pull over to observe the northern lights.

    Storfjord Municipality

    Storfjord is a municipality in the Troms County of Northern Norway. The name comes from the Storfjorden that runs through the area, while the coat-of-arms shows three poppies that are rotated around a meeting point which represents the meeting point of the three countries Norway, Sweden, and Finland.

    The first peoples to live here were the Sami people. In the 19th century settlers from Finland and Southern Norway began to establish themselves. Sami culture has survived in parts of the municipality. In the 19th century the Laestadianism religious movement obtained a strong position, and Skibotn is still a stronghold for this movement.

    The landscape of Storfjord is characterised by alpine mountains, and the highest mountain is Vassdalsfjellet (1587m), while the most ‘famous’ mountain is Otertind.

    Highest Point on the Road

    Landmark

    Just after coming into Norway, you pass the highest point on the E8 highway. It is 542 metres high.

    The first stretch of the E8 highway is remote and rugged. You will pass numerous parking places along the way.

    Skibotndalen Valley

    Scenic Area

    The valley area you are driving through is called Skibotndalen, which is a popular valley for hunting moose. The river you are driving along is the Rovijokkelva, a 60km long river that originates from the lake Bajimus Rovvejarvi and flows in a south-west direction.

    Rovijokfossen

    Waterfall

    Rovijokfossen is a waterfall located by the highway. There is a large parking lot by the waterfall but no signage. In Google Maps the waterfall is called “Rovijoen putous”. This is where the river Rovvejohka drops 28 metres and ends in the river Skibotnelva. It is possible to go for a short walk to get close to the waterfall.

    Skibotn

    Town

    Skibotn is a small village with a population of 538 located at the end of the Lyngen fjord and close to Kilpisjarvi in Finland. The residents of the village are either descendants of the Sami and Kven people or the Norwegian immigrants who came in the 19th century.

    Historically, Skibotn was a meeting point and market for the different ethnic groups in the area. The market still takes place today and is named ‘Skibotn markedsplass’ on GPS if you want to visit.

    Skibotn is the place in Norway that has registered the clearest days and it is one of the driest places in Norway. Because of the lack of clouds, there is an astrophysical observatory located in Skibotn.

     

    Hatteng
    Town

    Hatteng is located at the southern end of the Storfjorden, a branch of the Lyngenfjorden and the fjord you will start driving along.


    Storfjord Church is the main church and was built in 1952. The first church was built in 1917 and was used both as a church and the local school. The old church wasn’t destroyed during World War II, but after the war a new church was built and the old building was used just as a school. The church is located at the address Rv868 6, 9046 Oteren

    In 1944 the Nazis established a village here with several thousand soldiers stationed here. The nickname was “Little Berlin’ and the village had several camps with Russian prisoners of war. Two marked graves have been identified. A Nazi watertower is located in the village (“Tysk vanntårn” on GPS).

    Balsfjord Municipality

    Balsfjord is a municipality in the Troms County of Northern Norway. The coat-of-arms depicts a yellow plough on a red background, symbolising the importance of agriculture in the municipality. The plough also symbolises that the municipality is at the northernmost border on which grain can be grown in Norway. No other area in Troms has so much cultivated land. Agriculture is mostly based on milk and meat production and Balsfjord has the highest number of cattle, sheep, and goats among the municipalities in Troms. One of the dairies is the country’s largest goat cheese producer.

    The Sami people were the first people to inhabit the area, but around 1800 new settlers came from Finland and Southern Norway. Today, very few traces of Sami culture survive. From the 18th until the 20th century, trappers from Balsfjord were active in the Arctic, hunting in the areas around Greenland and Svalbard.

    The municipality was home to a religious group of ‘mindekirken’ or ‘freechurch dissenters’ who split from the state church in Tromsø. They were led by a seminary student, Johannes Andreas Johannessen and they established their own church, the Free Apostolic Christian Church, in Balsfjord. Bomstad and his followers were said to have protested against the Tromsø state church minister and Troms Bishop’s religious rulings, eventually leading to a riot in Tromsø. The state church members yelled at Bomstad and his dissenters to “go back to Kautokieno!”. In 1862, Bomstad led a group of colonists to America, arriving into Chicago. After that they went to the area of St. Peter, Minnesota, where they remained. Bomstad left St. Peter and became the founding father of Lake Lillian in Minnesota. After staking his original claim, Bomstad and the rest of the colonists arrived at Lake Lillian and built dugout shelters to live. Eventually they all had log cabins to live in.

    Close to Balsfjord Church are 6000-year-old rock carvings at Tennes.

    Piggsteinen

    Roadside Attraction

    Located just out of Nordkjosbotn is Piggsteinen. It has been a tradition since ancient times to carve ones name into this stone when travelling. In recent times spray cans have taken over and many thousands of names have formed a thick layer of paint on the stone. It’s not marked on the highway and difficult to see if you’re driving towards Tromsø, but put in the address 137 E6 9040 Nordkjosbotn or “Piggsteinen” into GPS.

    See more here. 

    Nordkjosbotn

    Town

    Nordkjosbotn is a small town with a population of around 480 people. Nordkjosbotn is located at the junction of the two major highways in Northern Norway – the E6 and the E8 – and it is located in one of the few winter-safe passages for the region. Because of its location, the town is the commercial centre of the region. Nordkjosbotn is also a town with a growing population.

    Tromsø Municipality

    Vadsø municipality is named after the town of Vadsø that we will soon be driving through. The coat-of-arms shows a reindeer as reindeer husbandry is common for the municipality and of great economic importance, especially for the Sami people.

    The municipality spreads across the southern coast of the Varanger peninsula. There are trees here as this part of the peninsula is sheltered from the sea, but the tree line is at around 200 metres above sea level.

    Ramfjord

    Village

    Ramfjord (also called Fagernes) is a small village located just south of Tromsø. Around 1,000 people live here and there’s schooling and a trotting track. The Univeristy of Tromsø has a research station here too.

    Tromsø

    Tromsø is the largest city in Northern Norway and fourth-largest city in all of Norway. Located on an island in the middle of a strait, Tromsø was first mentioned in history in the mid-13th century when King Håkon Håkonsson had a fortress and church built there to defend Norway against the ‘heathens’ (Sami people).

    Tromsø didn’t see growth until the 18th century, when it emerged as an important harbour for Arctic hunting and trade. Tromsø earned the nicknamed ‘the Paris of the North’ because Europeans visiting to partake in trade were surprised to find that people living this far-north weren’t harsh and basic, but rather they were speaking multiple languages, wearing the finest Parisian clothing, and had many cultural events.

    Tromsø is one of the few places in Northern Norway that wasn’t destroyed during World War II, so has a number of wooden houses from the 19th century.

    Today Tromsø has a population of around 70,000 and is a major university town. Tromsø also has one of the major hospitals for Northern Norway.

  • Drive it Yourself: Varanger Tourist Road

    Drive it Yourself: Varanger Tourist Road

    The Varanger Tourist Road is one of Norway’s 18 national tourist roads and is definitely one of the most special. The Varanger Peninsula is a rugged mountain area partly covered in birch trees and partly above the tree line. Parts of the peninsula used to have an Arctic tundra climate but don’t any more. Still, the geology here is unique as most of the landscape was made before the last Ice Age. 

    The route is so special – you see lunar landscapes, flat plains, rolling hills and birch forests. You also pass sights with history and sites going back 10,000 years, abandoned fishing villages, and so much more. 

    Enjoy the Varanger Tourist Road. 

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    Download this guide to have it as a PDF ready to go for your road-trip!

    All downloadable guides come with an interactive Google Map for easier navigation. 

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    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    The Varanger Tourist Road

    Hamningberg

    This drive begins in Hamningberg, which is an abandoned fishing village with many buildings from before World War II. 

    Before the Second World War, around 700 people lived here. Hamningberg was one of the largest fishing communities in Finnmark and took part in the Pomor trade. However, the last three people left in 1978. 

    Vardø Municipality

    Vardø municipality is one of the first municipalities to be established in Northern Norway. The coat-of-arms is from 1898 and represents the sunshine, fishing boats, the ocean, and a large cod. In the chief is the year of the towns founding, 1789, along with the words “Vardöensis Insignia Urbis” which means “the seal of the town of Vardø”. In the lower part of the arms is the town motto “Cedant Tenebræ Soli”, meaning “Darkness shall give way to the sun”.

    Several Stone Age sites as well as sites dating from the Sami Iron Age have been found here. Vardø became a Norwegian settlement in the medieval period, and the first church was built here in 1307.

    Fishing and seafood processing are Vardø’s major sources of income. The municipality also has large seabird colonies on the islands of Hornøya and Reinøya.

    WWII Memorial

    Memorial

    Shortly after crossing into Vardø municipality you will pass this memorial on the left side. It is for three men who were executed here during World War II. 

    The drive from Hamningberg to Vardø is incredible. Be sure to stop as much as possible!

    Vardø

    The road does not go through Vardø, but the town is a short detour off the highway. I do recommend visiting the town – there’s a lot to see and do, and it also has a petrol station and some coffee shops. 

    Domen

    Viewpoint

    The mountain Domen is fairly unique thanks to its history. It has been known as ‘Heksefjellet’ (witch mountain) for a few hundred years as it’s believed that this is the place where the witches were meeting with the devil.

    The Vardø area was regarded as one of the worst areas in terms of the scope of the brutal witch hunts. In the year 1662/63 more than 30 women in Vardø were accused of witchcraft. Many of the women said that on the mountain Domen they had danced, drunk and consorted with the Devil. Domen was also where the ceremonies and sabbaths took place.

    It was believed that the devil lived in a cave in the mountain. Vardø’s location at what seems like the end of the world inspired speculation that this was the entrance to hell. This may explain why so much witch burning went on.

    Kiberg

    Village

    Kiberg was one of the largest fishing communities in the area during the 16th and 17th centuries, and was important during the Pomor Trade era. Kiberg is still important for fishing.

    Two women from Kiberg were burned at the stake during the 1621 witchcraft trials in Vardø. Their names were Mari Jørgensdatter and Kirsti Sørensdatter, and Kirsti was the last victim of the witchcraft trials.

    Kiberg was of strategic importance during World War II. The geographical proximity to the Soviet Union brought Russian and Norwegian people together. After the occupation of Norway, many locals went to the Soviet Union. Some returned and worked for the Soviet military intelligence services, with as many as 45 partisans in Kiberg.

    Their most important task was to pass on radio communications about the German shipping fleet. It has been estimated that around 80 German merchant ships were sunk on their way to Kirkenes due to the partisans passing on information. Around half the partisans were killed or executed during the war.

    In Kiberg you can visit the Partisan Museum, which is about the events here during World War II. 

    Vadsø Municipality

    Vadsø municipality is named after the town of Vadsø that we will soon be driving through. The coat-of-arms shows a reindeer as reindeer husbandry is common for the municipality and of great economic importance, especially for the Sami people.

    The municipality spreads across the southern coast of the Varanger peninsula. There are trees here as this part of the peninsula is sheltered from the sea, but the tree line is at around 200 metres above sea level.

    Skallelv

    Village

    Skallelv was originally one of the several purely Finnish communities in the area, populated at the end of the 19th century. The local people were known as Kvens, the North-Norwegian name for people of Norwegian-Finnish descent. Skallelv is one of the few remaining areas with buildings that were constructed before World War II. The oldest wooden houses here are from before 1860.

    Ekkerøy

    Village

    There has been settlement on Ekkerøy since at least the Middle Ages, and finds from the Viking Age have been found there. However, it is not known if Vikings settled there or if they traded there.

    Ekkerøy was an island until 1750, but now there is a land connection to the mainland. Ekkerøy was built up as a fishing village and at its peak had several landing piers, shops, a school, shrimp factory, fish oil processing plant, and dried fish racks. There were 270 people living there; today there are less than 50.

    Parts of Ekkerøy have been declared a nature reserve and the island also has a small bird cliff. In the breeding season, which is from May to September, the cliffs may be home to as many as 20,000 kittiwake pairs.

    The settlement of Ekkerøy was not destroyed during World War II. The well-preserved fish factory is now a museum with warehouses, a cod liver oil steamer, an old shop and an authentically furnished traders residence.

    Vadsø

    The only major town we drive through is Vadsø. There is a lot worth seeing here, so browse our separate travel guide page below. 

    Vestre Jakobselv

    Village

    Vestre Jakobselv is a small village with around 500 people living here. It has a primary and secondary school. The village is popular for its salmon fishing as the Jakobselva river has its outlet here.

    Nesseby Municipality

    Nesseby is a small municipality located at the isthmus between the Varangerfjord and the Tana River at the entrance to the Varanger peninsula. The population lives in small settlements along the fjord and the Varangerhalvøya National Park is partly located in the park. The municipality is known for its interesting birdlife and also its tundra with areas of bog and marsh.

    Today the municipality is known as Unjárga-Nesseby, reflecting the Sami community who live here. Nesseby was the second municipality in Norway to get a Sami name. Most of the inhabitants are Sami and Sami is being taught as the first language in schools. In historic times, reindeer used to cross this area as part of their annual migration.

    This led the Sami to coming into the area. The area between Skippagurra and Varangerbotn is full of archaeological finds from different periods.

    The coat-of-arms represents a cloudberry plant.

    The municipality is the birthplace of Isak Saba, the first Sami to be elected to the Norwegian parliament.

    Mortesnes Site

    Historic Site

    Mortesnes is considered to be one of the richest and most diverse cultural areas in Europe. The uninterrupted timeline and cultural contunity makes the area special. The land here has remains from the past, documenting a 10,000 year history of unbroken settlement and provides a picture of key feature in the development of the settlement of Finnmark after the last Ice Age. The area also provides a picture of the background and emergence of Sami cultural features.

    There is a walking trail that you can follow. Here you can see traces of settlement in the form of tent rings and tufts on the shorelines according to the past sea levels. The area also contains a large, pre-Christian burial ground, which dates from approx. 1000BC to 1500AD. Over 400 graves are here. Various sacrificial places have also been found. The most famous monument here is Transteinen, which was believed to be smeared with cod liver oil to ensure good fishing luck.

    One of the oldest ski finds in Norway comes from one of the graves in the area and was found in 1853. The skis are from 400BC. Reindeer trapping facilities have also been found here, along with various materials, tools, and objects made of ceramic and metal.

    It is free to walk around the trail, and in summer they have a museum that you can visit.

    Nesseby Church

    Historic Church

    Nesseby Church is from 1858 and is the only wooden church in Eastern Finnmark that was not destroyed by the Nazis during World War II. Parts of the inventory are from the 17th and 18th centuries and some come from other churches. For example, the altarpiece is baroque and comes from the old Kiberg Church.

    Today the church is relatively the same as when it was built.

    Outside the church is Nesseby’s oldest building: an old log cabin. It was moved here in 1746 ad the door is from the 17th century and probably originates from the time that the church stood on Vadsø.

    There is a legend as to why Nesseby Church was saved. Sverre Raddum was the parish priest here during the war. He was a big, strong and rugged fellow, and known to be a tough guy. When the Germans were going to burn Nesseby Church, he stood on the steps and waited for them with the priests collar around his neck, and did not let them in. In German, he told them: “If there is someone who goes to church or a house of worship with evil thoughts, then they are guaranteed to be punished by higher powers”. The Germans immediately gave up bruning the church. Raddum saved his church.

    Gornitak Rasteplass

    Rest Area

    Gornitak (Sámi: Gorgŋetak) means ascent. This rest area lies on the Varangerfjord close into a mountainside under a high firmament and with a view to the sea in the east. The service facilities are housed in an old, restored stone building that served as an ammunitions store during the Second World War.

    Varangerbotn

    Village

    Varangerbotn is a small village that is the administrative centre of Nesseby. The population is around 341. In Varanger you can visit the Varanger Sami Museum, a museum for the history and culture of the Sami in Varangerbotn. The museum presents the Sea Sami history, Sami prehistory, and contemporary Sami culture.

    Next Drive

    Varangerbotn to Berlevåg

    Follow this isolated drive from Varangerbotn to Berlevåg in Finnmark. 

  • Drive it Yourself: Kirkenes to Vardø via the E6 and E75

    Drive it Yourself: Kirkenes to Vardø on the E6 and E75

    Here’s my guide to the drive from Kirkenes to Vardø on the E75. Looking for a drive that will take you through the rugged Eastern Finnmark? To be honest, when I did this drive I had it planned as more of a “A to B” type of drive. I wasn’t expecting the scenery to be so incredible! The drive on the E6 from Kirkenes to Varangerbotn is so rocky and wild, while the E75 becomes flat and barren. This drive is incredible.

    Part of this drive does make up the Varanger Tourist Road, but I have decided to write that as a separate article. For this article, I wanted to focus on this drive as though it were just a regular highway. Enjoy!

    In this article...

    Download this Guide

    All of our guides can be downloaded via our online store. 

    Download this guide to have it as a PDF ready to go for your road-trip!

    All downloadable guides come with an interactive Google Map for easier navigation. 

    Online Guide

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    Watch on Youtube

    All of our roadtrips are available on YouTube to watch. They include information about the area provided in text and voiceover form, plus they show the drive in full (sped up in some spots!) so you can get an idea what the drive is like. 

    Kirkenes to Vardø via the E6 and E75

    Kirkenes

    This drive begins in Kirkenes, which is one of the easternmost cities in Norway. It has a fascinating war and cultural history and is worth spending some time in.

    Russian border

    Border crossing/detour

    It is possible to drive to the Russian border, but you cannot cross the border into Russia. You will see signs pointing to Murmansk, which is approximately 255km (158 miles), or a 3 hour drive, away. On the border is a souvenir shop, restrooms, and signs pointing to Russia that you can take photos of. 

    Bjørnevatn

    Town

    The community of Bjørnevatn, also known as ‘the mining town’, has been of strategic importance for the development of Kirkenes. The mine is Europe’s largest open-cast mine and opened in 1906. It has since closed down. The mine did reopen in 2009, but shut again in 2015 due to lower costs from other countries. Today around 2,500 people live in Bjørnevatn.

    Garrison Sør-Varanger

    Military Barracks

    The garrison in Sør-Varanger is a military unit based at Høybuktmoen. The departments main task is to patrol and monitor the Norwegian-Russian border. The garrison consists mainly of conscripted soldiers, and there are 400 new conscripts every six months. They mostly tell tourists when they are wandering into Russia, but another goal is to monitor Russian activity on the border.

    Kirkenes Airport

    Airport

    Kirkenes was originally built as a military air station by the Luftwaffe during World War II. The airport reopened for civilians in 1963 with a new terminal and extended runway.

    The airport has direct flights to Oslo and Tromsø through SAS and Norwegian, as well as Widerøe flights to Vadsø and other small coastal communities. 

    Neiden

    Village

    Neiden is regarded as the centre of Eastern Sami culture in Norway and a large proportion of the population are of Finnish descent.

     A large part of the population are Skolt Sami, which is the Orthodox Sami. In town is the Skolt Sami Museum from 2017, which is trying to preserve and present Skolt Sami culture. They also have an outdoor museum with preserved buildings from an old Skolt Sami settlement. It includes St. Georges Chapel, a Russian Orthodox chapel that was built in 1565.

    The Skolt Sami are a unique Sami group. They are more closely related to the Russians compared to the Finns or Norwegians and are regarded as a minority group amongst the Sami. They have been more severely impacted by land borders and country regulations than other Sami groups and are marked by high unemployment and low literacy rates. The Skolt Sami language is considered highly endangered and was only written down in 1992.

    There is a settlement called Neiden on the Norwegian and the Finnish side. The area used to be one settlement for the Skolt Sami, but when the borders were laid out in the 1850s they were separated. When the area was divided up, Neiden was forced to split across the countries.

    Neiden also has Neiden Chapel – built in 1902 as a Norwegian ‘dragestil’ (dragon style) church to symbolise the Norwegian state sovereignty in the area. It is a Lutheran church and is well worth seeing. The Norwegian government invited Norwegian settlers to the area, building the Lutheran church to counterbalance the Orthodox chapel.

    Skolt Sami Museum

    Museum

    The Skolt Sami museum is a cultural history museum dedicated to the Eastern Sami, or the Skolt Sami.

    Visit their website here: https://dvmv.no/en/vv-skoltesamisk-muse/avv-skoltesami-museum/

    Bugøyfjord
    Village

    Bugøyfjord is a small village along the Varangerfjord. It was a predominantly Sami community until the Kven people arrived in the 1860s. It was one of the first villages to be burned to the ground by Germans during the retreat in 1944.

    In the village is a memorial marker for John Savio. He is the first Sami person to have his own exhibition in the National Gallery in Oslo. He didn’t achieve fame during his life, but since his death has been recognised as one of the greatest Sami artists. He is also the only Sami artist to make a name for himself before World War II. He worked primarily in wood cuts.

    Nesseby Municipality

    Nesseby is a small municipality located at the isthmus between the Varangerfjord and the Tana River at the entrance to the Varanger peninsula. The population lives in small settlements along the fjord and the Varangerhalvøya National Park is partly located in the park. The municipality is known for its interesting birdlife and also its tundra with areas of bog and marsh.

    Today the municipality is known as Unjárga-Nesseby, reflecting the Sami community who live here. Nesseby was the second municipality in Norway to get a Sami name. Most of the inhabitants are Sami and Sami is being taught as the first language in schools. In historic times, reindeer used to cross this area as part of their annual migration.

    This led the Sami to coming into the area. The area between Skippagurra and Varangerbotn is full of archaeological finds from different periods.

    The coat-of-arms represents a cloudberry plant.

    The municipality is the birthplace of Isak Saba, the first Sami to be elected to the Norwegian parliament.

    Bugøynes

    Village/Detour

    Bugøynes was established by Finnish immigrants in the 19th century. They had left their own country due to political unrest and poor living conditions, and came to Norway with their experience in agriculture. They also quickly learned the knowledge of fjord fishing. The Finns also brought their religious traditions with them – a conservative Christian movement known as Læstadianism. It still holds a firm footing in the village.

    The village was saved from the destruction of World War II, so the Finnish architecture has been preserved. The Finnish influence is still strong here, and most of the people living here are of Finnish descent and have Finnish names.

    Bugøynes is around a 15-20 minute detour off the E6, but is well worth it. 

    Varangerbotn

    Village

    Varangerbotn is a small village that is the administrative centre of Nesseby. The population is around 341. In Varanger you can visit the Varanger Sami Museum, a museum for the history and culture of the Sami in Varangerbotn. The museum presents the Sea Sami history, Sami prehistory, and contemporary Sami culture.

    E6 & E75 junction

    Roundabout

    This is where the E6 and the E75 separate. The E75 continues onto the Varanger peninsula towards Vardø, while the E6 goes towards Tana Bru and Lakselv. The roundabout in town marks the beginning the National Tourist Road for Varanger, one of Norway’s 18 national tourist roads. I cover the tourist road in a separate article.

    Vadsø Municipality

    Vadsø municipality is named after the town of Vadsø that we will soon be driving through. The coat-of-arms shows a reindeer as reindeer husbandry is common for the municipality and of great economic importance, especially for the Sami people.

    The municipality spreads across the southern coast of the Varanger peninsula. There are trees here as this part of the peninsula is sheltered from the sea, but the tree line is at around 200 metres above sea level.

    Vestre Jakobselv

    Village

    Vestre Jakobselv is a small village with around 500 people living here. It has a primary and secondary school. The village is popular for its salmon fishing as the Jakobselva river has its outlet here.

    Vadsø

    The only major town we drive through is Vadsø. There is a lot worth seeing here, so browse our separate travel guide page below. 

    Ekkerøy

    Village

    There has been settlement on Ekkerøy since at least the Middle Ages, and finds from the Viking Age have been found there. However, it is not known if Vikings settled there or if they traded there.

    Ekkerøy was an island until 1750, but now there is a land connection to the mainland. Ekkerøy was built up as a fishing village and at its peak had several landing piers, shops, a school, shrimp factory, fish oil processing plant, and dried fish racks. There were 270 people living there; today there are less than 50.

    Parts of Ekkerøy have been declared a nature reserve and the island also has a small bird cliff. In the breeding season, which is from May to September, the cliffs may be home to as many as 20,000 kittiwake pairs.

    The settlement of Ekkerøy was not destroyed during World War II. The well-preserved fish factory is now a museum with warehouses, a cod liver oil steamer, an old shop and an authentically furnished traders residence.

    Skallelv

    Village

    Skallelv was originally one of the several purely Finnish communities in the area, populated at the end of the 19th century. The local people were known as Kvens, the North-Norwegian name for people of Norwegian-Finnish descent. Skallelv is one of the few remaining areas with buildings that were constructed before World War II. The oldest wooden houses here are from before 1860.

    Vardø Municipality

    Vardø municipality is one of the first municipalities to be established in Northern Norway. The coat-of-arms is from 1898 and represents the sunshine, fishing boats, the ocean, and a large cod. In the chief is the year of the towns founding, 1789, along with the words “Vardöensis Insignia Urbis” which means “the seal of the town of Vardø”. In the lower part of the arms is the town motto “Cedant Tenebræ Soli”, meaning “Darkness shall give way to the sun”.

    Several Stone Age sites as well as sites dating from the Sami Iron Age have been found here. Vardø became a Norwegian settlement in the medieval period, and the first church was built here in 1307.

    Fishing and seafood processing are Vardø’s major sources of income. The municipality also has large seabird colonies on the islands of Hornøya and Reinøya.

    Komagvær

    Village

    Komagvær is one of the main gateways to the Varanger National Park, with a gravel road leaving from the town into the park. In the valley are many types of birds, including the Arctic Skua.

    Kiberg

    Village

    Kiberg was one of the largest fishing communities in the area during the 16th and 17th centuries, and was important during the Pomor Trade era. Kiberg is still important for fishing.

    Kiberg was of strategic importance during World War II. The geographical proximity to the Soviet Union brought Russian and Norwegian people together. After the occupation of Norway, many locals went to the Soviet Union. Some returned and worked for the Soviet military intelligence services, with as many as 45 partisans in Kiberg.

    Their most important task was to pass on radio communications about the German shipping fleet. It has been estimated that around 80 German merchant ships were sunk on their way to Kirkenes due to the partisans passing on information. Around half the partisans were killed or executed during the war.

    Vardø Tunnel

    Tunnel

    The Vardø Tunnel is a subsea road tunnel stretching 2.8km (9,400 ft) under the Bussesundet strait that connects the island of Vardøya to the mainland. The tunnel reaches a depth of 88m (289ft) and was opened in 1983.

    Vardø

    This drive finishes in Vardø, Norway’s easternmost city. Vardø is an important historic city and a fantastic place to base yourself while in Eastern Finnmark. 

    Next Drive

    Varanger Tourist Road

    Follow the Varanger Tourist Road from Hamningberg to Varangerbotn via Vardø and Vadsø.